drinks and snacks at taste p. 30
NIGHT MOVES FebruaryST. 2020LO U I S’ I N D E P E N D E N T C U L I N A RY AUTH O R IT Y // S AU C E MAGA Z I N E .C O M // Fsaucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 1 R E E , F E B R UA RY 2020
FEBRUARY 2020 • VOLUME 20, ISSUE 2 What are your night moves?
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Little Fox for wine,
Lona’s Lil Eats for dinner Allyson Mace and Tick Tock Tavern for Meera Nagarajan a nightcap Heather Hughes Huff Catherine Klene Adam Rothbarth Lauren Healey Lauren Healey, Catherine Klene Michelle Volansky Megan Gilmore Julia Calleo, Jonathan Gayman, Izaiah Johnson, David Kovaluk, Adam Rothbarth, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky Vidhya Nagarajan Glenn Bardgett, Matthew Berkley, Ryan Griffin, Justin Harris, Lauren Healey, Heather Hughes Huff, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore, Catherine Klene, Meera Nagarajan, Michael Renner, Adam Rothbarth, Brenna Sullivan, Stephanie Zeilenga Allyson Mace Bea Doerr, Angie Rosenberg Amy Hyde Amy Hyde Planters’ House to the Bob (Broadway Oyster Bar) for Erin Killion, some live music Brenna Sullivan
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EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louis-area residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com. Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.
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St. Louis, MO 63103 February 2020
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contents FE B R UA RY 2 02 0
editors' picks
24 NIGHTLIFE Pop
by stephanie zeilenga
7 EAT THIS Classic pizza at Union Loafers
by heather hughes huff
last bite
8 ELIXIR
38 STUFF TO DO by erin killion
Winter rosés
by heather hughes huff 11 HIT LIST
40 WHAT I DO Bob Brangle
3 places to try this month
by heather hughes huff and adam rothbarth 15 A SEAT AT THE BAR
by lauren healey 42 LANDMARK Kohn’s Deli
by adam rothbarth
features 26
COOKBOOKS WE LOVE
by heather hughes huff, catherine klene, meera nagarajan and adam rothbarth 30
COVER DETAILS Night Moves These snacks and drinks at Taste in the Central West End are just one example of a pro night move. Plan your next evening out with some help from the many suggestions on p. 30. PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
NIGHT MOVES by adam rothbarth
Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 FM Feb. 3 when Sauce shares the must-try new restaurants this month on St. Louis on the Air. Then tune in again on Feb. 13 when Sauce shares how to build the best night out in your favorite neighborhoods.
Five experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake
by glenn bardgett, justin harris, ryan griffin and ted and jamie kilgore
reviews 19 NEW AND NOTABLE Turmeric
by michael renner 22 LUNCH RUSH 58hundred
PHOTO BY IZAIAH JOHNSON
by matt berkley
February 2020
chicken 65 bezule at turmeric, p. 19
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E D I T O R S ' P I C K S
UNION LOAFERS CAFÉ AND BREAD BAKERY 1629 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.6111, unionloafers.com
PHOTO BY JULIA CALLEO
Eat This
Sometimes we overlook paramount Eat This candidates because they seem too obvious. Judging by the lines, St. Louis already knows to trust its best bread bakery to make the best pizza. But we still need to say it: Union Loafers’ Classic pizza, made with just tomato sauce, mozzarella, basil and olive oil, is an edible ideal. The crust is incredibly flavorful; the toppings are calibrated to pizza perfection. It’s what the Sauce team orders every time we have to work late. February 2020
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WINTER ROSÉS BY HEATHER HUGHES HUFF // PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER
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Rosé is not just for summer. It may seem off brand for the wine now synonymous with long days of sunlight and vacation day drinking, but rosé has a dark side. There are rich, ruby bottles out there that no one would think to name Whispering Angel or Hampton Water. “That sounds so derogatory!” said advanced sommelier and certified wine educator Patricia Wamhoff when she discovered the brand Summer Water. (We didn’t tell her there’s also a White Girl Rosé.) “There’s so much more to it than that,” she said. It’s a style that offers the best of both worlds – they can have the acidity and minerality of white wines along with some of the heft and tannin structure of reds. That means not all rosés are thin, transparent and chuggable. You say rosé all day; Wamhoff says rosé all year. Here are some darker, more substantial bottles she recommends for the winter months.
CLOS CIBONNE CUVÉE TRADITION This is Wamhoff’s favorite winter rosé. “This is meant to be a full-bodied rosé that can age,” she said. The wine develops extra richness from its unusual aging process in massive oak foudres under fleurettes, a thin veil of yeast more common in sherry-making than wine. $30. The Wine and Cheese Place, 7435 Forsyth Blvd., Clayton, 314.727.8788, wineandcheeseplace.com FANTINI CERASUOLO D’ABRUZZO Made with the Italian Montepulciano grape, this bright pink rosé is rich and fruity. “It has a slightly ripe cherry flavor while still having nice crispness,” Wamhoff said. $18. Ladue Pharmacy, 9832 Clayton Road, Ladue, 314.993.4031, laduepharmacy.com LA CALCINARA MUN ROSÉ This is another 100 percent Montepulciano. “The interesting thing about this one that gives it that heaftier feel is that the lees [sediment leftover after fermentation] are left on for several months,” Wamhoff said. “It adds some richness and body to it.” $18. Vom Fass, 7314 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.932.5262, vomfassusa.com S H E R W I N FA M I LY V I N E YA R D S R O S É OF CABERNET Sherwin is known for producing classic, pricey Napa Valley cabs. This vibrant, berry-colored bottle is a great way to try a lighter, more affordable expression of the vineyard’s cabernet sauvignon grapes. $25. Parker’s Table, 7118 Oakland Ave., Richmond Heights, 314.645.2050, parkerstable.com
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E D I T O R S ' P I C K S
PHOTO BY ADAM ROTHBARTH
hit list
3 new places to try this month
'NDUJA PIZZA AT NOTO February 2020
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HIT LIST p. 2 of 2
clockwise from top: a 22-ounce cowboy rib-eye from the tenderloin room, the dining room at the tenderloin room, noto general manager kendele sieve and pizzaiolo wayne sieve
NOTO After three years as a wood-fired pizza trailer, Noto has found a permanent home. Every inch of its new brick and mortar is steeped in Italian culture, from the amaro cocktails to the rustic-yet-modern space. Start with an artichoke- and Parmesan-laden Noto salad and an order of fritte – fried pizza dough balls tossed in Pecorino Romano and served with marinara for dipping. From the pasta menu, we liked the corzetti, a unique dish of coinsized, stamped pasta rounds served with pesto, pine nuts and garlic. Using imported flour and long fermentation times, Noto has also mastered Neapolitan-style pizza. We liked the spicy ’nduja pizza, the eggplant and the simple Romano pie, made with just tomato, basil and Pecorino Romano. This St. Peters spot is worth the trip regardless of where you live.
5105 Westwood Drive, St. Peters, 636.317.1143, notopizza.com
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THE TENDERLOIN ROOM The new Tenderloin Room in the Chase Park Plaza is everything a steakhouse should be: dry-aged steaks, suited up servers, seafood carts and tableside flambéed desserts. New owners Bob Brazell, Ben Strake and Rick DeStafane took over the restaurant from the Karagiannis family last year and have spruced it up without scrubbing out the St. Louis institution’s charm. The refinished space feels swanky and somehow manages to be professional and romantic at the same time. Begin your meal with a Rat Pack cocktail made with Old Overholt rye, Luxardo amaro, Angostura bitters and a Laphroaig mist to get in the proper mood. Then stick to the classics: a cup of French onion soup, a properly cooked steak, a twice-baked potato, maybe something green and bananas Foster.
The Chase Park Plaza, 232 Kingshighway Blvd., St. Louis, 314.361.0900, tenderloinroom.com
RECESS STL Recess STL’s massive warehouse space is filled with games from bocce ball to air bowling (bowling with a football) to giant Connect Four. For a $10 cover on weekends ($5 on weekdays), you can access limitless pingpong matches, Jenga and bags competitions. The bar is more shots and well drinks than highend bottles and classic cocktails, but it is also stocked with quality local beer from places like 2nd Shift Brewing, along with canned wines and cocktails. The adults-only playhouse can get crowded, but the space is thoughtfully designed with lounge areas, picnic tables, nooks and nets to protect you from flying footballs. Check it out before it heads to a TBD permanent location later this year.
4500 Swan Ave., St. Louis, 314.818.9112, recessstl.com February 2020
NOTO PHOTOS BY ADAM ROTHBARTH; TENDERLOIN ROOM PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY
E D I T O R S ' P I C K S
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A SEAT AT THE BAR Five experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake
del maguey vida mezcal is ideal in a maximilian affair cocktail
TED AND JAMIE KILGORE USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart and co-owners/bartenders at Planter’s House
Del Maguey Vida Mezcal offers whiffs of smoked, spiced, ripe fruit followed by light cinnamon and a touch of honeysuckle. Use it in place of tequila in your favorite cocktail or in the new classic, Maximilian Affair. In an ice-filled shaker, mix 1 ounce mezcal, 1 ounce elderflower liqueur, ½ ounce sweet vermouth and ½ ounce lemon juice. Shake 20 seconds and strain into a chilled cocktail glass. $37. Randall’s Wine & Spirits, 1910 S. Jefferson Ave., St. Louis, 314.865.0199, shoprandalls.com
RYAN GRIFFIN AND JUSTIN HARRIS Co-owners at Saint Louis Hop Shop
Intentional IPA is the newest beer from local nonalcoholic brewery Wellbeing Brewing Co. It pours a clear amber color with pungent Citra and Mosaic hops aromas that grab you as soon as you crack open the can. The mouthfeel is clean and perfectly carbonated with a crisp, rich flavor, making it easy to sip. Four-pack: $9.50. Craft Beer Cellar, 5760 Chippewa St., St. Louis, 314.222.0333, craftbeercellar.com
GLENN BARDGETT Member of the Missouri Wine and Grape Board and wine director at Annie Gunn’s
ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN
Fess Parker, the actor known for his portrayals of Daniel Boone and Davy Crockett, has been making exciting rieslings since the 1980s. His 2018 Fess Parker Riesling from Santa Barbara County is packed with fruit flavors, featuring notes of apple, pear, apricot, peach, guava and papaya enveloped by a touch of sweetness reminiscent of Juicy Fruit. $11. Lukas Wine and Spirits, 15678 Manchester Road, Ellisville, 636.227.4543, lukasliquorstl.com February 2020
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PARTNER CONTENT
Experience culinary excellence at Tompkins by The Rack House BY LAUREN HEALEY
If you’re searching for the perfect meal out but want more than just a simple feast, Tompkins by The Rack House® on Main Street in St. Charles exceeds expectations. This locally owned and operated restaurant provides a from-scratch dining experience with a menu, created by executive chef Philip Day, utilizing plenty of locally sourced produce and meats, much of which comes from the Wentzville and O'Fallon areas.
If you’re visiting on a weekend, call 636.493.6332 in advance for reservations.
“We are an experience; we don't try to turn tables quickly,” said owner John Hamilton. “Come in and have an appetizer and a glass of wine, spend time with your friends, family or business colleagues and enjoy the experience. Most guests end up doing all three courses, which takes about 1½ to 2 hours for a four top, and generally will go through a bottle or two of wine and split a couple of desserts amongst the table. Our most popular dessert is Death by Chocolate, which includes chocolate fudge cake, chocolate mousse and house-made chocolate ice cream.” With a laser focus on quality, the majority of offerings are made in house, including the sourdough bread, butter, ketchup, dressings, sauces, soups and ice cream.
PHOTO BY BRENDEN BROOKS
“Our scallops, flown in fresh by local company Fabulous Fish, are a favorite,” Hamilton said. “Chef Philip pairs the dishes with accompaniments to create a concert of flavors. He tries to take into account the entire experience, ensuring all items on the menu work well with each other and progress well for a coursed meal.”
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“Most of our wine comes from smaller, boutique wineries,” Hamilton said. “We try to provide things you can't pick up at the grocery store. We do, however, have the license to sell by the bottle and can provide carryout if a guest likes the wine.” For lunch, the Wagyu Burger is one of the most popular options. “It’s made with Marcoot white cheddar, house-made black garlic mayonnaise, bacon-onion marmalade and locally sourced lettuce, red onion and tomato during season,” he said. In addition to an abundance of delectable, from-scratch fare, Tompkins offers top-notch service and unparalleled ambiance. “The house was built in 1866, and the main dining area has a copper ceiling, wood floors and some of the original brick exposed on the plaster walls,” Hamilton said. “Many will know our location as the former Mother-in-Law House restaurant. The event space on the lower level can hold up to 100 guests, has original stone walls and exposed, hand-cut white oak timbers holding up a 9-foot ceiling with exposed floor runners above. The event space also has a fully stocked bar and is great for any occasion needed for between 50 and 100 guests.” If you’re planning on going during the weekend, reservations are needed. Also, don’t miss The Rack House Kitchen Wine Whiskey® in Cottleville, which is under the same ownership and offers a different yet equally captivating experience.
For more information, visit Sommelier Josh French works with tompkinsrh.com. the chef to pair each of the dinner saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 17 entrees with a wine.
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reviews All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.
chicken 65 bezule at turmeric
NE W A ND N OTA B L E
turmeric BY MICHAEL RENNER // PHOTOS BY IZ AIAH JOHNSON
In St. Louis, the majority of Indian restaurants concentrate on the country’s northern style of cuisine with classics like tikka masala, butter chicken and numerous variations of paneer. But have you ever had chicken 65 bezule, a popular snack from the coastal city of Mangalore? What about thakkali rasam broth from the southern state of Tamil Nadu? Or green beans thoran-style from
new and notable TURMERIC p. 19
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nightlife POP p. 24
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the state of Kerala? There’s naan, sure, but how about dosas or uthappams? First-time restaurateur Naveen Chepuri and his two co-owners are responsible for shifting our focus beyond what we’ve come to expect from Indian food in St. Louis. Turmeric in the Delmar Loop looks to the country’s five southern states in dishes rich with coconut, seafood, tamarind, lamb and an array of spices offering varying degrees of heat.
the dining room at turmeric
Chepuri and his partners knew what they wanted and also had the sense to know what they didn’t know about the restaurant business. The group hired chef-consultant Alagesan Panneerselvam, who, after surveying our local culinary landscape, drew upon his Tamil Nadu birthplace, experience in Indian hotels and history opening restaurants in California, Virginia and North Carolina to develop the menu. His former chef de cuisine, Kishore Reddy, is now the executive chef. Tamil Nadu boasts a brilliant array of cuisines and is home to some of the spiciest, most aromatic food in India. For instance, Turmeric’s thakkali (tomato) rasam (juice) broth, the menu informed, was a “Chettinadu village-style soup flavored with tomato, coconut, coriander and black pepper.” I call it an exhilarating elixir made with tamarind juice and aggressively spiced enough to soothe any winter illness. Chicken 65 bezule is a common bar snack and street food that rivaled any Buffalostyle wing I’ve ever tasted. Fiery red, spicy chunks of boneless chicken marinated with intoxicating spices too numerous to list are stir-fried with curry leaves, hot peppers and yogurt curd. Serving it in an edible bowl made from lentil and rice batter added to its appeal and illustrated how presentation sets Turmeric apart from the standard template. Showing off its Indo-Chinese roots, crispy cauliflower Manchurian bezule – batter-coated florets tossed in a sweet and spicy chili sauce – was no less enticing. More superb dishes from the small plates section: Two Bombay sliders
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turmeric
from top: chicken 65 bezule, chargrilled masala halibut and green beans thoran
truffle masala dosa
that sandwiched delicately spiced potato fritters between soft, addictive pav rolls were what I’d crave from a late-night drive-thru. Yogurt-crusted, crispy-edged, tandoor-roasted salmon dusted with fiery “gunpowder” masala yielded a lingering, warm spice afterglow. Marina shrimp were coated in a spicy paste with black mustard seeds and cooked in pepper-tomato sauce to stimulate all parts of the palate. There is an entire section of the menu dedicated to dosas and uthappam. The former are long, thin floppy-crisp crepes made from fermented rice and lentil batter filled and rolled like a newspaper. The truffle masala dosa consisted of a spiced potato hash, chopped cashews and curry leaves. It was griddled with truffle oil you could actually taste – another sophisticated touch. Made from the same batter, the single uthappam option comprised four variations of the thick, soft pancake: shallots and chili, wild mushroom, cheese, and spinach and asparagus. Both batter breads were cooked on a large flattop grill in the dining room and served with the classic accompaniments of chutneys (tomato and coconut) and sambar, a lentilbased, curry-seasoned stew.
Several northern Indian entrees are offered, including chicken tikka masala and butter chicken. But compared to their one-note flavor, Turmeric’s special chicken curry offers so much more piquancy, depth and color from its silken, fragrant gravy, packed with classic southern flavors like coconut, turmeric, tamarind and a list of spices the length of your arm. Also from the south: Green beans thoran with shallots, curry and shredded coconut was by far the favorite dish during one visit. Do not overlook the Turmeric Creations section of the menu, featuring modern, upscale dishes like chargrilled masala halibut roasted in a banana leaf, finished on the grill and served on a bed of spinach poriyal (stir-fried) with a creamy
Where 6679 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.899.9995, turmericstl.com Don’t-Miss Dishes Chargrilled masala halibut, green beans thoran, chicken 65 bezule Vibe The warm and inviting space maintains many design elements of its predecessor, Público, for an upscale feel. Entree Prices $10 to $26 When Tue. to Thu. and Sun. – 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., 5 to 10 p.m.; Fri. to Sat. – 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., 5 to 11 p.m.
February 2020
yogurt fenugreek sauce so delicious I’d pour it on toast. Or try the chakra murgh: chicken cooked in puff pastry with spinach, creamy potatoes and more of that crave-worthy fenugreek sauce. For lunch, about half the a la carte small plates from the dinner menu are available, along with several curries of the day, rice and biryani dishes, and breads. You can try a little bit of everything with a lunch platter – vegetarian, meat or the Turmeric Special combination platter – consisting of eight to nine items for the bargain price of $11 to $13. Turmeric changed few design elements from when the space housed Público. The open kitchen is now enclosed, slightly reducing the number of seats, but those stylized, dark wood tree branches still jut out above the booths, and the U-shaped bar still dominates. You can play it safe with any number of classic cocktails from the bar, or you can veer into new territory with Turmeric’s specialty cocktails like Mary Ka Badla, a spicy Indian take on the common bloody mary. It’s another example of how Turmeric colors outside the lines of the St. Louis Indian restaurant template and offers a broader palate from across the subcontinent’s cuisines and influences, making it an exciting and welcome addition to the local restaurant scene.
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LUNCH RUSH
Charred Vegetable Salad You don’t have to be a vegetarian to fall head over heels for this salad. A bright collection of broccoli, zucchini, edamame and carrot is dusted with a savory house seasoning that incorporates fennel, coriander, salt and pepper before getting grilled. The charred veggies are tossed with crunchy quinoa and drizzled with a citrus vinaigrette laced with honey. Braunschweiger Plate Billed as an appetizer, the braunschweiger plate is substantial enough to serve as a main. The kitchen utilizes whole hogs to make the super savory liver sausage pate in-house. It’s cut into thick rounds and served alongside generous slices of grilled Companion multigrain bread accompanied by whole grain mustard, a dollop of mayo, house pickles and pickled red onions – all the makings for the best braunschweiger sandwich. LUNCH RUSH
58hundred BY MATT BERKLEY | PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK
Housed in a whitewashed brick building on a quiet corner near The Hill, 58hundred (from the owners of The Block in Webster Groves) is a homey neighborhood spot ideal for a lunch date. Wide-plank wood floors, bright white walls and a massive bar bifurcating two dining areas create an open, sprawling feel. The tight menu features vegetable-focused dishes alongside decadent cuts of meat.
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Grilled 3-Cheese One bite of the grilled cheese dunked into creamy, impossibly rich tomato soup is enough to slay all pretenders. Crispy sourdough laced with salt and olive oil is the perfect delivery for the combination of two cheddars and tangy, intense blue cheese. Rounding out the
cast: grilled portobello mushrooms and a marinated artichoke hummus that brings a little nuttiness to the thick and cheesy lunchtime classic.
the bar at 58hundred
quinoa bowl with an egg added
charred vegetable salad
braunschweiger plate
the hot ham & cheese sandwich
58hundred 5800 Southwest Ave., St. Louis, 314.279.5799, 58hundred.com
Hot Ham & Cheese The ham and cheese is seared on a flattop until its rich filling peeks out the side of the brioche bun beckoning you on. Thin slices of juicy, house-smoked ham are paired with a healthy dose of sweet caramelized onions, then drenched in a creamy jalapeno Mornay that comprises white and sharp cheddar. Quinoa Bowl Fluffy and chewy at once, nutty red and white quinoas are cooked in house-made vegetable stock then piled with layers of flavor from a mix of veggies. Butternut squash, roasted peppers, zucchini, carrot, cremini and shiitake mushrooms, spinach and bright, charred broccoli are all in the delicious mix. It’s served with brown rice and a sesame-soy reduction. The Downside The only disappointment from the lunch menu was the bland basil pesto risotto. Adding sauteed shrimp failed to rescue a dull lump of risotto that delivered only faint hints of the expected fresh pesto flavor.
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NIGHTLIFE
lombardy’s top hat cocktail
blackened ahi tacos
The small list of original cocktails also offers unique, fizzy delights. My favorite was the Lombardy’s Top Hat, made with Old Forester Rye, rosemary simple syrup and lemon and topped with Lambrusco, a sparkling Italian red wine that gives the drink a dry finish. Seasonal cocktail The Perfect Pear was also noteworthy. Combining gin, pear, cardamom bitters, vanilla liqueur and fizz from a sparkling German Müller-Thurgau, it’s a slightly sweet but complex cocktail.
the fondue de blanc at pop
NIGHTLIFE
pop BY STEPHANIE ZEILENGA | PHOTOS BY DAVID KOVALUK
Pop in Lafayette Square is Dave and Kara Bailey’s love letter to bubbles. All dark wood, low lighting and touches of gold, the space is at once cozy and seductive. It invites settling in and savoring, appropriate for the effervescent elixir to which Pop is dedicated. The space includes two rooms and a back patio for warmer weather celebrations. The front room is gorgeous, a gold and coral floral wallpaper imbuing it with a warm glow. A long, dark bar overhung
with lush plants runs along one side. It faces a line of bistro tables and a banquette backed in tufted leather and furnished with gold, coral and orange velvet cushions. The texture game here is strong. The back room is also attractive, featuring charcoal walls and exposed brick, a mix of high and low tables and bubble-themed paintings in gold frames. I adore sparkling wine, so I was predisposed to like Pop. The list is impressive, including
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options by the glass and bottles from all over the world – France, of course, but also Spain, Italy, Argentina and the U.S. The menu provides tasting notes for wines by the glass, helping us bubbly lovers who are not necessarily connoisseurs make a selection. The list veers from wine with a sparkling sake, a New Belgium sour ale and the Quebrada del Chucao Brut Cider Espumante – a dry, funky Chilean cider, which was one of the more interesting things I tasted at Pop.
the bar at pop
Pop 1915 Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.241.8100, popstlouis.com
For those who aren’t so hot on bubbles, Pop also offers more than a dozen beers and cider by the bottle and a handful on draft. Local makers like Perennial Artisan Ales and Brick River Cider Co. are represented, but the list leans heavily toward Belgian brews. There are also a few still wines. The menu includes a range of eight classic entrees like chicken breast with beurre blanc and squash, a burger and salmon with a balsamic glaze and watercress but, if you’re there for a date,
there is also a variety of snacks and small plates designed to complement sparkling libations. The bacon fat frites especially pair well – the salty fat of the fries provides an addictive counterpoint to the acidic fizz. So does the fondue de blanc, which comes with bread, apples, tomatoes, olives and fried artichokes for dipping. Likewise, the charcuterie board offers a nice array of meats and cheeses to nibble on. Blackened ahi tacos with avocado, peanut sauce and pickled red onions provide a nice hit of freshness by swapping conventional tortillas with a thin slice of crunchy jicama. The chicken skewers and hummus were both fine, but less notable than the other shareable options. Pop is a fitting space for celebrations big and small or whenever you need to inject a little magic into your evening. As F. Scott Fitzgerald, Mark Twain or someone else misquoted in memes once said, “Too much of anything is bad, but too much Champagne is just right.” February 2020
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cookbooks Tartine Bread This book is a behemoth in every way. Its centerpiece is a 68-page basic country bread odyssey, which will humble you regardless of your experience. Mastermind Chad Robertson offers a lot of great destinations: pizza, seeded bread, pastries and more. Though beautiful, it’s not a book for beginners, which I learned the hard way. – A.R.
Six Seasons This colorful book changed the way I think about produce. Author Joshua McFadden, who cooked at places like Dan Barber’s farm-to-table mecca Blue Hill, focuses on the vegetables that flourish in each season and the way we cook and/or preserve them. The recipes are seriously approachable but yield incredible depths of flavor due to McFadden’s total mastery of the relationship between spice, acid and fat. If you want to fall in love with produce again (or for the first time), pick this up. – A.R.
The 150 Best American Recipes This random gift was unexpectedly full of some of my all-time favorite recipes. It’s an odd, dated collection with sources as diverse as Marion Cunningham and defunct websites from the aughts. The deceptively impressive chocolate torte recipe (credited to a California grocery store flyer) will convince anyone you’re a professional baker. The double-chocolate layer cake (from Gourmet) is my signature contribution to any 26 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com celebration. – H.H.H.
The Bread Baker’s Apprentice This has been one of my goto reference books for years. Dad-joke musings aside, Peter Reinhart offers an encyclopedic guide to a wide range of breads with every kind of leavening agent with extensive information on traditional shaping. Nothing is better than the cinnamon bun recipe unapologetically styled after February 2020 Cinnabon. – H.H.H.
Hartwood I appreciate the complexity of a restaurant-based cookbook; they’re detailed and precise. These recipes aren’t fast, but they offer a big payoff with bold flavors. The roasted grouper dish – which is actually six recipes in one – is one of the best things I’ve ever made in my own kitchen. – M.N.
Gjelina For months after eating at Gjelina in Los Angeles, I wouldn’t shut up about its green chickpeas dish. My friend gifted me the cookbook to keep the memory of that legendary dinner alive. I’ve cooked out of it countless times since and discovered new things to obsess over – like the mushroom toast and the grilled kale salad. The recipe instructions are flawless, and the results are even better. – M.N.
Flour Water Salt Yeast I’ve learned a ton from Ken Forkish. He’s fun and easy to read, but also incredibly precise and pedagogical. He helps you understand what’s involved in creating good gluten networks and encourages you to treat time and temperature as ingredients. I’ve killed my share of starters, but Forkish’s chapter on levain method is so detailed that you really cannot February 2020 fail. – A.R.
The Moosewood Cookbook I picked this up unaware of its significance as a preeminent vegetarian cookbook, originally published in the 1970s. I fell in love with Mollie Katzen’s simple, flavorful dishes, flexible ingredient lists, adorable illustrations and the typeface that feels like reading a handwritten recipe from your favorite aunt. It’s my go-to, dog-eared reference in summer when my backyard garden produce is at its peak. – C.K.
we love B Y H E AT H E R H U G H E S H U F F, C AT H E R I N E KLEN E , M EER A NAGAR AJAN AN D ADAM R O T H B A R T H // P H O T O B Y J O N AT H A N G AY M A N saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 27
PARTNER CONTENT
Quite Simply, EXtraOrdinary BY LAUREN HEALEY
“It’s not just a place people come to have their nails done and grab a drink,” said EXO founder Gina Gamblin. “Even if you don’t want your nails done, the lounge is quickly becoming a popular place for people to hang out.” EXO’s signature cocktail list is unparalleled. The Bubbling Berries features blackberries and blueberries marinated in Grand Marnier, along with with fresh citrus juices, Champagne and dry ice. Made with matcha powder and packed with antioxidants, the Matcha-Do-About-Nothing is another crowd pleaser. And the dessert-like white chocolate martini includes activated charcoal to help detoxify your body. “Our beverages will make your taste buds run wild,” Gamblin said. There’s also a variety of snacks like hummus, tapenade and macarons, as well as the signature charcuterie board. “We worked extremely hard to put together a menu that would inspire, and this board certainly does,” Gamblin
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says. “It boasts a range of artisan cheese from our local friends at Ludwig Farmstead. If that doesn’t make your mouth water, maybe the Volpi sliced meats and our selection of nuts and bread will. The charcuterie board is delicious paired with some of our premium red wines, including Nickel & Nickel Cabernet, Opus One and Caymus Conundrum.” Conceptualized by Shannon Petrou Design, the Instagram-worthy lounge is a stunning destination with a glossy black quartz bar top, brass tabletops in luxurious velvet and leather booths and 3-D gold ceiling panels flanking the cove-lit coffered ceiling. With the addition of starburst crystal chandeliers, herringbone Italian porcelain floor tiles and crocodile-embossed black wall coverings, the lounge exudes opulence. There are also six custom laser-cut brass liquor lockers for elite members to store their personal liquor. “We’ve been told it’s like stepping into a New York cocktail lounge without the fancy prices,” she said. “Your senses will be inspired as you dance, socialize and enjoy the finer things in life. During the weekdays, people stop in to have a nice relaxing afternoon, usually at one of our business happy hours. Later in the week, things start to ramp up as we set the tone for those who want to get a little frisky and let the night take them away. We up the tempo with our state-of-the-art audio system and dance until the early hours of the morning. We have DJs and live musicians every weekend and on select weekdays.”
An impressive 1,700-square-foot patio will open in the spring. “What beats a gorgeous sunset as you relax and socialize with friends in a unique atmosphere with live music and tasty cocktails?” Gamblin said. “With its own bar, fire, water features and outdoor TV, it’s going to be the No. 1 hang spot in Edwardsville.” EXO Lounge is open 9:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, till 2:30 a.m. Friday and Saturday, and till 8 p.m. Sunday, with happy hour specials from 4 to 7 p.m. daily. EXO Nail Bar is open 9:30 a.m. to 7:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday and 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. Sunday. “We focus on a blend of culture, merging the Vietnamese skills and expertise in the nail industry with the American passion for entertainment and high-level service. Health and wellbeing are ingrained in our philosophy, which is why we are Edwardsville’s first and only nail bar with a state-of-the-art ventilation system at each station. This reduces health concerns regarding the inhaling of toxic fumes for both employees and customers. Did we mention you order your drinks from your very own iPad, located at each station?” For information on renting out the space, email general manager Marcus Owen at Marcus@VisitEXO.com. For general information, go to visitexo.com.
PHOTOS COURTESY EXO LOUNGE
Going out just got a lot more interesting in Edwardsville. At the new EXO Lounge, you can sip unique cocktails, premium wines and whiskeys or NA beverages like local Goshen coffee, kombucha and cold-pressed juice. Next door is EXO Nail Bar, with top-of-the-line services at affordable prices (basic manicure: $15; basic pedicure: $25). EXO Nail Bar works in unison with EXO Lounge in order to have your drink brought to you while receiving your manicure or pedicure.
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build the perfect night out by adam rothbarth photos by izaiah johnson
opposite: snacks and drinks at taste; taqueria el bronco February 2020
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A big evening out should be as diverse and easy as possible, with plenty of opportunities for scene changes and spontaneous quests. If I’m going all-in on a night out, I want to get a snack and a drink at one place, go somewhere else for dinner, and then end up drinking – and let’s be real, probably snacking again – at another spot. Sometimes nights should be meticulously planned, especially when reservations are involved, but other times, you can leave plenty of latitude for changing it up. Here are a few paths, from the laid-back to the ambitious and chic, for you to follow when the sun goes down.
tofu and the whole red snapper with yellow curry. End up at I Fratellini for an amaro and some luscious tiramisu. Who could ask for anything more? Bar Les Frères, 7637 Wydown Blvd., Clayton, 314.725.8880, barlesfreres.net Billie-Jean, 7610 Wydown Blvd., Clayton, 314.797.8484, billiejeanstl.com I Fratellini, 7624 Wydown Blvd., Clayton, 314.727.7901, ifratellini.com
The Party Time
The Loop Casual
The Loop is the perfect neighborhood for a low-key night, especially if it’s a first date. Split a cheap pitcher of beer and an order of fried pickles at Blueberry Hill to break the ice, then throw back some ramen at Nudo House. You’re ending your night on the Eclipse rooftop bar at the Moonrise Hotel, so dress appropriately and be prepared to kick back with a tasty drink and a wonderful view. Blueberry Hill, 6504 Delmar Blvd., University City, 314.727.4444, blueberryhill.com Nudo House, 6105 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314.370.6970, nudohousestl.com Eclipse Restaurant, 6177 Delmar Blvd., St. Louis, 314.726.2222, moonrisehotel.com
The South City Casual right: a fire pit at the royale; opposite: grace chicken + fish in the grove
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If you’re a South City ride-or-die, you’ve probably done some variation on this stream of mellow, accessible standards. Start by enjoying a classic cocktail (I recommend the Really Rye Old Fashioned) or a local beer next to the fire
pit at The Royale. Then, head over to Taco Circus for mezcal, chips and salsa, street corn and a few tacos. Finally, post up at Tick Tock Tavern. Audible: If it’s chilly, switch Tick Tock and The Royale to cozy up near the fire for a nightcap. The Royale, 3132 S. Kingshighway Blvd., St. Louis, 314.772.3600, theroyale.com Taco Circus, 4940 Southwest Ave., St. Louis, 314.899.0061, tacocircus.com Tick Tock Tavern, 3459 Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, Facebook: Tick Tock Tavern
Zoë’s Block
If you’re going for pure romance, look no further than Wydown Boulevard, where you’ll find Bar Les Frères, Billie-Jean and I Fratellini. French-, Asian- and Italian-inspired, respectively, what threads these restaurants together is owner Zoë Robinson’s impeccable taste. This is a marathon, not a sprint, so start light with Champagne, Gruyere souffle and potato blinis with creme fraiche and caviar at Bar Les Frères. Then head across the street to the handsome Billie-Jean for an inventive soju cocktail and a few powerful entrees and small plates, like the sesame lacquered Japanese eggplant with crispy
This tried-and-true journey is perfect as a date or a squad turn-up session. Begin on the fringe of The Grove at Rockwell Beer Co. for some crisp, flavorful beers and a crazily good cheeseburger. Travel a couple blocks to Parlor, where you can play pool, video games and skee ball. Do a shot. Actually, do two, and then play “NBA Jam.” Now you’re ready to dance, so Handlebar is your move. (Yes, you’re still allowed to go to Handlebar past your 20s.) After hours of partying, you’ve probably worked up an appetite again, so you’re going to want to hit Grace Chicken + Fish for chicken strips or fried tofu before heading home. Rockwell Beer Co., 1320 S. Vandeventer Ave., St. Louis, 314.256.1657, rockwellbeer.com Parlor, 4170 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.4999, parlorstl.com Handlebar, 4127 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.652.2212, handlebarstl.com Grace Chicken + Fish, 4270 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, 314.533.2700, Facebook: Grace Chicken + Fish
The Cool Night
You want to make a great first (or tenth) impression, so you’re meeting up at Planter’s House for dill fries and a Paper Plane cocktail or Planter’s House Punch. Then, you’re headed down to Cherokee Street to hit Taqueria El Bronco for chips, salsa and some amazing tacos (this one-dollar-sign dinner will offset the pricier cocktails you just had). After that, it’s the bright, boisterous B-Side or the moodier Fortune Teller Bar till close. Whether you’re rolling with Uber or driving yourself, these spots will give a February 2020
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Taste, 4584 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, 314.361.1200, tastebarstl.com Vicia, 4260 Forest Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.553.9239, viciarestaurant.com Clementine’s Creamery, various locations, 314.819.9960, clementinescreamery.com from a number of attractive salads and split a couple house-made pastas. For dessert, walk down to Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria for ricotta doughnuts and a glass of port or an amaro. Buona notte! clockwise from bottom: side project cellar, taco circus owner christian ethridge delivering drinks, a campari and soda at taste; opposite: a dart player enjoying her evening at blueberry hill
huge variety of strong vibes within a relatively small grid. Slam dunk. Planter’s House, 1000 Mississippi Ave., St. Louis, 314.696.2603, plantershousestl.com Taqueria El Bronco, 2817 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.762.0691, taqueriaelbronco.com The B-Side, 2709 Cherokee St., St. Louis, 314.354.8180, Facebook: The B-Side The Fortune Teller Bar, 2635 Cherokee St., St. Louis, Facebook: The Fortune Teller Bar
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Marcella’s Mia Sorella, 14426 Clayton Road, Ballwin, 636.333.1015, miasorellastl.com Napoli 2, 1054 Town and Country Crossing Drive, Town and Country, 636.256.9998, napoli2.com Katie’s Pizza & Pasta Osteria, 14171 Clayton Road, Town and Country, 636.220.3238, katiespizzaandpasta.com
The High Life Italy via West County
Looking for a quiet evening out west? Begin at Marcella’s Mia Sorella, an inviting spot where you can have an equally good time losing yourself in the happy hour crowd or chilling at a table with a glass of wine and a bar snack. For dinner, head to Napoli 2, a small oasis of charm and comfort on an increasingly commercialized block. Have another glass of wine and some masterfully fried arancini, choose
Maybe this is for an anniversary, maybe it’s a Valentine’s date or maybe you just want to live it up with someone special. Whatever the reason, start your night at Taste with some Brussels sprouts, fries and a classic cocktail. Bottoms up, then head to your reservation for a beautiful chef’s tasting at Vicia. Split a bottle or two of natural wine. After that, go home, get under your warmest blanket and put on an old movie or whatever TV show you’re currently obsessed with. Good thing you had the foresight to hide a pint of vegan coconut chocolate fudge ice cream from Clementine’s in your freezer.
The Maplewood
Looking for an elegant but not overthe-top evening? You’re going to Maplewood! Start at the charming Side Project Cellar with a saison or wild ale from the internationally renowned brewery. For dinner, escape to Morocco by walking two blocks to The Benevolent King. Order the maqbouba (charred tomatoes with vinegar), baba ghanoush, split pea falafel, lamb meatballs and the cookie plate for dessert. Then, the night can end one of two ways. If it’s still early and you’re looking to impress, catch a glass of wine at Chateau Maplewood. If dive bars are more your speed, settle in a couple doors down at The Crow’s Nest for heavy metal music, an ’80s movie on the projection screen and some brews off the strong-butunpretentious beer list. Side Project Cellar, 7373 Marietta Ave., Maplewood, thesideprojectcellar.com The Benevolent King, 7268 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.899.0440, thebenevolentking.com Chateau Maplewood, 7326 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.899.0105, chateaumaplewood.com The Crow’s Nest, 7336 Manchester Road, Maplewood, 314.781.0989, eatcrowstl.com February 2020
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L A S T B I T E // S T U F F T O D O
FEBRUARY BY ERIN KILLION
Whiskey for the Woods Feb. 8 – 4 to 7 p.m., Piper Palm House, Tower Grove Park, 4271 Northeast Drive, St. Louis, 314.771.2679, towergrovepark.org Sample over 20 different bourbons, ryes and scotches, from Basil Hayden to Maker’s Mark, then chow down on some deviled eggs or bacon-wrapped meatballs from Salt + Smoke. Learn how to concoct an Old Fashioned, a Manhattan and a whiskey sour with the help of STL Barkeep. Tickets include a bottle of Knob Creek Distiller’s Pick. All proceeds benefit Tower Grove Park. Tickets available online.
Science On Tap Feb. 8 – 7 to 10 p.m., St. Louis Science Center, 5050 Oakland Ave., St. Louis, 314.289.4400, slsc.org Learn the science behind brewing, bottling and other facets of the beer industry. Over 30 local breweries like Square One Brewery and Schlafly serve samples of their most popular beers while brewers demonstrate the beermaking process. There are also small plates including beer-braised brisket, Companion pretzels and more. Don’t miss the science presentations and live music from the Bottoms Up Blues Gang. Tickets available online.
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Forever Alone Party Feb. 14 – 8:30 p.m. to 1 a.m., Brennan’s, 4659 Maryland Ave., St. Louis, 314.497.4449, Facebook: Valentine’s Day: Forever Alone Party IV Solo on Valentine’s Day? Embrace it and head to Brennan’s for a free Forever Alone Party. Indulge in a complimentary dessert bar full of heart-shaped cookies and chocolates, along with several Champagne cocktails for purchase. The normal food and drink menus are also available.
Cupid’s Crawfish Boil Feb. 16 – 2 to 8 p.m., Gezellig, 4191 Manchester Ave., St. Louis, Facebook: 5th Annual Cupid’s Crawfish Boil Get your hands dirty with all-you-can-eat Louisiana-style crawfish, andouille, potatoes and corn. Wash down the spiciness with a selection of beer, wine and Hurricanes for purchase while listening to live music from Big Mike & the Big Easy All Stars. Tickets available online.
Pop-Up Dinner with Chef Jack and Misha K Feb. 27 – 6:30 to 9:30 p.m., 314.359.3524, culturefoodgroup.com The Culture Food Group hosts an eight-course chef’s tasting menu dinner with wine pairings, but there’s a catch: The secret location isn’t announced to ticketholders until the day prior to the pop-up. Enjoy a selection of chef Ceaira Jackson’s dishes from cuisines around the world, including vegan and vegetarian options, along with Misha K. Sampson’s signature cocktails. Tickets available online.
Slipping Into Darkness Feb. 29 – noon to 4 p.m., 4 Hands Brewing Co., 1220 S. Eighth St., St. Louis, 314.436.1559, 4handbrewery.com Slip into some dark stouts at 4 Hands Brewing Co.’s annual tasting celebration. Use your branded enamel mug to sample over 25 of 4 Hands’ best stouts and other beers. There are also live DJs, along with food for purchase like pulled pork from the Pappy’s Smokehouse food truck or Peacemaker Lobster & Crab Co. bites like soup and fried oyster baskets. Tickets available online.
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L A S T B I T E // W H AT I D O
“ T h e y ’ r e a n e xt r e m e ly h e a lt h y s n ac k – vegan,
organic, cholesterol-free, gluten-free, keto-friendly – and that’s one of the reasons they’re being picked up at local farmers markets and ... why Ortega National Parks contacted me about carrying them in their visitor centers.” “ I ’ m c au t i o u s ly l o o k i n g at e x pa n d i n g.
I don’t want to have too many products. I want to be really good at a few, not mediocre at a lot.” “ I g i v e away t h e s e d e l i c i o u s c h o c o l at e c lu st e r s d u r i n g t h e h o l i days . People have
expressed interest in buying those, as well as the cheddar cheese wafers and the cheese ball, which I often have on hand at farmers markets to let people sample the Tastachios. There are a lot of regulations and hoops to jump through were I to start selling any of those, but there are recipes for each of them on the website.” “ I t ’ s a l a b o r o f l ov e .
B O B
B R A N G L E
St. Louis native Bob Brangle worked in finance most of his life, but barbecue has long been his passion. About two years ago, he began experimenting with wood-fire roasting a variety of nuts. “It was pistachios that completely changed when I did it,” he said. “The flavor was so different from anything else.” They were so good he decided to sell them, so he trademarked Tastachios, which are now available at an array of local retailers. Here’s how Brangle went from the stock market to the supermarket. – Lauren Healey
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“Barbecue has been a h o b by for about 30 years,
and I’ve gotten pretty good at it. When I wood fired the pistachios, my wife and I couldn’t stop eating them – they were addicting. We started to share with friends and family, and they said I should market them and start selling them.” “ P e o p l e s o m e t i m e s s ay t h e y ta st e a l i t t l e l i k e b ac o n . They’re really
good with coffee.”
“I had an idea of h ow I t h o u g h t t h e r oa st e r s h o u l d wo r k ,
and I fabricated through trial and error a small-scale piece of machinery, but it was very labor intensive. When I decided to do the Best of Missouri Market [at Missouri Botanical Garden] last October, I bought a commercial-grade smoker and had it fabricated like what I was doing on a small scale. I went from 36 pounds a day to 220 pounds a day.”
“ T h e c o r p o r at e e n v i r o n m e n t i s v e ry st r u c t u r e d , so you’re
– for lack of a better term – a number. Now I have the freedom to use my creativity; I just didn’t have that in the corporate world. I’ve always had that entrepreneurial spirit, and when the opportunity arose to leave finance, I had a full outpouring of support from my friends and family. I have no desire to go back into the investment business. I’m right where I want to be.”
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PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
tastachios, 314.325.8575, tastachios.com
I do all the designs, labeling, websites, advertising, all the social media. I enjoy it, but it’s becoming a lot. My mentors are saying I need to hire people. That’s one of my goals for this year – 2020 is starting off big.”
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L A S T B I T E // L A N D M A R K
KOHN’S KOSHER MEAT AND DELI RESTAURANT BY ADAM ROTHBARTH
As you wait in line at Kohn’s Deli, an employee is sure to float by, much like a Jewish grandmother in her own kitchen, encouraging you to try samples of pastrami and teriyaki wings. “I want [customers] to feel like they’re at my home,” said Lenny Kohn, who has co-owned the restaurant alongside his sister, Rosemary Kohn, since 1979. They took over the deli from their parents, Simon and Bobbi Kohn, who opened it in 1963. Kohn’s has always been a family affair, and that’s especially apparent in its hospitality, which is formidable. “We just try to give the customers what they want. Fresh items, don’t kill ’em on the price, pamper ’em when they come in,” Lenny said. Kohn’s serves everything you’d want from a deli: dependable salads, housemade breads – tzitzel rye! – matzo ball soup, burgers, smoked fish and a killer selection of kosher meats prepared fresh daily. The simple dishes, like the pastrami and corned beef sandwiches, remain Kohn’s most beloved, feeding everyone from big families who order dinners to people stopping by for a quick lunch. “One of our target markets is working class guys and women, so we like to keep the price low and give ’em what they want,” Lenny said. Since ’63, this philosophy has kept Kohn’s running strong.
PHOTO BY DAVID KOVALUK
10405 Old Olive Street Road, Creve Coeur, 314.569.0727, kohnskosher.com
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