THE VICE ISSUE
absinthe · bacon · beer · Bordeaux · bourbon · burgers · candy · carbs · cheese chocolate · coffee · cookies · deep-fried everything · salt · tequila · truffles · Twinkies
s t. 2012 lo u is’ i n d e pe n d e nt cu l i n a ry au th o r it y March
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M arch 2 012 • VO LUM E 12, Issue 3 PUBLISHER MANAGING EDITOR ART DIRECTOR SENIOR STAFF WRITER SPECIAL SECTIONs EDITOR Contributing Editor Fact checkers PROOFREADER PRODUCTION DESIGNER ONLINE EDITOR EDIBLE WEEKEND WRITER CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR OFFICE MANAGER ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER ADVERTISING EXECUTIVES ACCOUNT MANAGER
Allyson Mace Stacy Schultz Meera Nagarajan Ligaya Figueras Stacy Schultz Kylah Brown Shannon Parker, Rebecca Ryan, Lindsay Toler Emily Lowery Rebekah Wessels Stacy Schultz Byron Kerman Jonathan Gayman, Ashley Gieseking, David Kovaluk, Laura Miller, Greg Rannells, Carmen Troesser Glenn Bardgett, Matt Berkley, Kylah Brown, Ligaya Figueras, Kellie Hynes, Byron Kerman, Cory King, Anne Marie Lodholz, Dan Lodholz, Meera Nagarajan, Shannon Parker, Michael Renner, Stacy Schultz Vidhya Nagarajan Sharon Arnot Shana Cook Erin Anderson, Erin Keplinger, Allyson Mace, Brenda Pollom, Angie Rosenberg Jill George
GET SAUCE DELIVERED TO YOUR HOME SAUCE MAGAZINE subscriptions are available for home delivery In last month’s Time Tested review of Sunset 44 Bistro (page 18), we misspelled the name of owner Bob Menendez. We sincerely regret this error.
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editorial policies The Sauce Magazine mission is to provide St. Louisarea residents and visitors with unbiased, complete information on the area’s restaurant, bar and entertainment industry. Our editorial content is not influenced by who advertises with Sauce Magazine or saucemagazine.com. Our reviewers are never provided with complimentary food or drinks from the restaurants in exchange for favorable reviews, nor are their identities as reviewers made known during their visits.
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contents march 2012
9 A La Carte
Reviews
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17 new and notable: Market Grill Changing the Name of the Game by Michael Renner
21 Dine on a dime: Dooley’s Beef-n-Brew House New Digs, Same Great Burger by Dan and Anne Marie Lodholz
23 Nightlife: Diablitos Cantina Midtown’s Little Devil by Matt Berkley
Home cooking 25 What in the world: Black Truffle Sea Salt by Ligaya Figueras
26 Vegetize it: Chocolate mousse by Kellie Hynes
28 One ingredient, 7 ways: Bacon Bringing Home the Bacon by Kylah Brown, Ligaya Figueras and Meera Nagarajan
31 Cook’s books: One Girl Cookies by Shannon Parker
Stuff to do 50 Stuff to do: Food by Byron Kerman
52 Stuff to do: Art by Byron Kerman
54 The New Classics Fried Deviled Eggs By Ligaya Figueras
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15 cover details
features 32 Resurgin’ bourbon An all-American spirit rises again By Ligaya Figueras
38 late-night fix By M att Berk ley, Kylah brown, Byron Kerman and M ichael Renner
42 Appliance Envy BY K ylah B rown, ligaya Figueras, meera nagarajan and stacy schult z
44 A Second Shot How Sump’s Scott Carey finally found his calling – and why it just might lead to the best cup of coffee this town has ever tasted
Sidecar from Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse
Photo by Carmen Troesser
By STACY SCH U LT Z
= recipe on this page
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Tune in to St. Louis Public Radio 90.7 KWMU’s Cityscape on Friday, March 9 at 11 a.m. and 10 p.m. to hear more about the vices that make St. Louis so sinfully delicious.
INTERVIEWS | On any given night, a slew of St. Louis’ culinary talent can be found at Sandrina’s, slumped over a stiff drink after a long night in the kitchen. This, of course, means co-owner Trish Erwin has quite a few juicy stories from the late-night hot spot. Go to the Extra Sauce section of SauceMagazine.com to read the second part of Byron Kerman’s 5 Questions interview (page 50) with Erwin, where she shares more vicefilled tales from the den of iniquity’s crazy days, which stretch back, believe it or not, almost 150 years. RECIPES | We crave our carbs (p. 11) and we love our coffee (p. 44). But at the end of a long day, our real vice is a well-mixed cocktail. Check out the recipes section of SauceMagazine.com for more cocktail recipes from this month’s issue – shaken-and-stirred sippers that tout everything from absinthe to bourbon. Doesn’t it taste good being bad?
PHOTO BY ASHLEY GIESEKING
ACCOLADES | The St. Louis culinary scene continues to garner national attention. Last month, one local restaurant and four area chefs were named semifinalists for 2012 James Beard Foundation Awards – considered the “Oscars” of the food world. Wes Johnson’s Salt is up for Best New Restaurant while Gerard Craft, chef-owner of the Niche family of restaurants; Kevin Nashan, chefowner of Sidney Street Cafe; Kevin Willmann, chef-owner of Farmhaus; and Josh Galliano, executive chef at Monarch; are all semifinalists in the Best Chef: Midwest category. Check out the blog section of SauceMagazine.com on Monday, March 19 to find out if any of these talented men make the foundation’s list of finalists. Good luck, chefs!
Find us on Pinterest and add your favorite Sauce recipes, dishes and drinks to your Pin boards. March 2012
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EAT THIS
There’s something sinfully rebellious about eating stuff that has zero redeeming nutritional value, like a Twinkie. But inside new-to-the-streets food truck CHOP SHOP, the cream-filled hillbilly gets dipped in sizzling oil for a dessert that gives new meaning to “snack cake.” Donning fresh strawberries, whipped cream and a bright, citrusy yuzu curd – this TEMPURA-
Photo by carmen troesser
FRIED TWINKIE just might be addictive enough to clear away Hostess’ financial clouds for good. Track down Chop Shop on Twitter at @ChopShopSTL
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chef’s day off Jonathan Olson, executive chef at Market Grill
Chef Jonathan Olson spends Mondays — his only day away from the kitchen at Market Grill — exploring the areas surrounding his new neighborhood of Soulard. “I definitely check out La Vallesana and I go to The Good Pie, but I usually end up Monday nights at iTap. I drink whatever, but they always have a good selection of local beers.” Find out how else Olson is supporting local vendors at his new post in our New and Notable review of Market Grill on page 17.
A light lager is fine, but sometimes I want to indulge in a really strong beer. In a wellmade beer, higher alcohol can add flavor complexities and depth, increase the beer’s ability to be cellared, and help balance intensely flavorful, hoppy and malty beers. When it’s high ABV you want, here are a few brews to grab. – Cory King, certified Cicerone and brewer at Perennial Artisan Ales
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Brouwerij Bosteels Tripel Karmeliet This golden straw Tripel smells of honey and spicy yeast, blended with a hint of alcohol. The 8.4-percent ABV dries out the palate considerably and complements the grainy, white pepper flavor. Some slight lemon zest, combined with herbal hops and tingly carbonation, finishes out this beautiful ale.
Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. Hoppy von Pilsmarck Don’t let this rather easy-drinking “über Pilsner” from Urban Chestnut fool you. Its 8.8-percent ABV is balanced perfectly by a hearty, slightly husky Pilsner malt backbone; “über” amounts of clean, noble hops; and a long, perfectly dry finish.
Deschutes Brewery The Stoic An innovative take on the strongest of Belgian ales, this Quad – brewed with pomegranates and aged in wine and rye whiskey barrels – pours a brilliant orange and has a hint of bubblegum on the nose, backed by a whiff of white wine and melted candy. The 11-percent ABV balances the candy sweetness with a finish that’s more like an apricot wine than a beer. March 2012
photo by laura miller
[beer]
There’s nothing healthy about cacio e pepe, but man is it good. Prepare 6 ounces of spaghetti to al dente. Drain, reserving ¾ cups of pasta water. Melt 2 tablespoons of unsalted butter in a saute pan over medium heat. Sprinkle 1 teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper and cook for 1 minute. Add ½ cup of the pasta water and simmer. Add the drained pasta and 1 tablespoon of butter. Turn heat to low and add ¾ cup of freshly grated pecorino. Toss until the sauce coats the pasta, adding more pasta water if too dry. Remove from heat and toss in another ½ cup of pecorino. Toss. Twirl. Devour. – Stacy Schultz
photo by greg rannells
A nicely aged pecorino provides the sharp flavors that make this dish so powerful. Pick up a wedge at The Wine Merchant.
The Wine Merchant 20 S. Hanley Road, Clayton, 314.863.6282, winemerchantltd.com March 2012
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tasty under $10 PAD EGGPLANT WITH TOFU $9 (lunch only)
When we’re under the gun and a lunch hour seems like a luxury, a to-go order of pad eggplant is the only cure for our mid-day hunger pangs. Thick hunks of meaty Thai eggplant yield a buttery silkiness that can make even the most avid carnivore convert for one afternoon. Joining the party is hearty tofu and a mélange of crisp, sauteed veggies, all swimming in a sweet garlic-basil sauce that we’d happily drink from a straw. Big on flavor and light on the wallet, this is one guilty pleasure we don’t have to feel bad about. Good thing – ‘cause we’re ordering it again tomorrow. Sen Thai Asian Bistro, 1221 Locust St., St. Louis, Suite 104, 314.436.3456, senthaibistro.com
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acclaimed sites in the world. Although the great châteaux aren’t easily found, the search (and damage to your bank account) is justified for these more-than-worthy bottles. In 1855, the top properties in the Médoc region of Bordeaux were organized into five categories. Virtually anything from these 62 wines – labeled
“Grand Cru Classé en 1855” – is worth your hard-earned cash. While most will demand triple-digit (and higher) prices, you may occasionally find some estates under $100. Why the hefty price tag? It’s strictly a case of supply and demand: Each individual château’s production is limited to what it can grow on its property, and there’s rarely an
opportunity to expand. So next time you feel like spending the big bucks, impress with a bottle that’s worth the splurge – and tasty until the very last drop. Glenn Bardget t has been around the gre at wines of the world his entire adult life. Much of what he has experienced would classify him as a br at – a title he actually enjoys, but only when it refers to wine.
March 2012
Photo by greg rannells
When price isn’t an issue, opt for any bottle that touts “Grand Cru Classé en 1855.” Let us explain …
When a special bottle of wine is sought, I always go to Bordeaux. A grapegrowing region since the days of the Romans, this area of southwestern France is worldrenowned as the ultimate source for cabernet sauvignon and merlot, with such names as Lafite-Rothschild and Margaux being some of the most highly
The stuff we can’t get enough of
Photos by laura miller; illustrations by vidhya nagarajan
Ligaya Figueras senior staff writer
Oh Lolli Lolli has been my lifesaver. Whenever my 12-yearold son gets invited to a birthday party, we head to the itsy-bitsy candy shoppe to pick up a gift card (available in any denomination). The birthday boy will be in kid-heaven standing in front of the candy counter picking out retro sweets, colorful gummy whatnots and chocolate-covered treats. And if his mom is smart, she’ll let him spend the whole wad at once, then send him next door to DeMun Park to run off that sugar high. Oh Lolli Lolli, 802 DeMun Ave., Clayton, 314.721.9600, ohlollilolli.com
Michael Renner New and Notable reviewer
I love Trader Joe’s Triple Ginger Snaps. I’m addicted to these disks of gingery excess. I eat them by the handful, with a glass of cold soy milk, dunked in coffee. I make mini ice cream sandwiches out of them. Unlike the hard, brittle ginger snaps we grew up on, these are crunchy and chewy, made from a Holy Trinity of ground ginger, fresh ginger and crystallized ginger that makes for a lingering zingy sensation without overwhelming. And now that I’ve discovered Trader Joe’s Lemon & Triple Ginger Snap Ice Cream, I’m entering the nearest rehab. Trader Joe’s, various locations, traderjoes.com
Stacy Schultz managing editor
Having sworn off vodka years ago, I’ve long preferred dark-colored spirits – bourbon, Scotch, just put it on the rocks and I’m a happy sipper. Recently, I’ve again heeded the call of a crystal-clear liquor – but this time, I’m singing gin’s sweet song. My current obsession: Stir the juice of 1 lemon with 2 teaspoons of powdered sugar. Add an ice cube and 2 ounces of gin (Hendricks, please) and top with a nice brut Champagne. The guys behind the bar call it a French 75. I call it the perfect brunch cocktail.
Meera Nagarajan art director
March 2012
I have an insatiable love for french fries. I mean, I like them at every temperature and in every shape. But I truly love Culpepper’s steak fries. In fact, I sometimes get an order to go of these (and only these) for dinner. Oh, and I get Buffalo-wing sauce and blue cheese dressing on the side. I dunk a fry in each sauce with reckless abandon and make my own heavenly version of buffalo-wing fries. It’s an unhealthy addiction, yes, but at least it’s not illegal. I’m just a fat girl on the inside after all. Culpeppers, various locations, culpeppers.com
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High On the Once-Illicit Green Fairy Absinthe was the opiate of choice in America before being banned in 1912
because it was thought to cause hallucinations. The culprit: thujone, a naturally occurring substance in wormwood that is potentially dangerous in very high doses (Oscar Wilde once claimed absinthe turned the bar before him into a field of tulips.). The absinthe vice squad withdrew from the U.S. in 2007, ending “the black death” drought with a celebrated renaissance that freed American distillers to try their hands at making the Bohemian spirit. (See below for a glimpse of some small-batch concoctions.) Today, absinthe is made using more-than-safe levels of thujone, which gets macerated in alcohol and then distilled to make the anise-flavored liquor. But the absinthe liberation has also meant more overt enjoyment of the green-tinted spirit, whether via the classic drip method or stirred into newage creations.
Although Lola is switching its absinthe bar to a cognac-centric lounge this month, patrons at the downtown restaurant can still partake in “L’heure Verte” (or Green Hour) anytime the doors are open. Order your choice of eight imported bottles or sip one of the bar’s houseinfused varieties, touting flavors like fennel, citrus and cherry-cranberry. While the absinthe drip (at left), slowly adding very cold water to absinthe, is the absintheur’s ageold ritual for enjoying the Green Fairy at its finest, absinthe also holds a place in the annals of cocktail history. The Nola-born sipper Sazerac calls for an absinthe wash before rye whiskey (The original base liquor was cognac.), bitters, simple syrup and a lemon twist are added. While some bars continue to make a Sazerac using an absinthe substitute such as Herbsaint (as was necessary during absinthe’s illicit days), J Fires’ Market Bistro in Waterloo, Ill., and Riverbend Restaurant & Bar in Soulard both use the real thing for their Sazerac
sippers. Other old-school absinthe elixirs that can write the drinker’s epitaph include the moribundnamed trio: Corpse Reviver No. 2, Obituary and Death in the Afternoon – the latter a simple yet potent combo of absinthe topped with Champagne. If you want to move beyond time-tested absinthe cocktails, head to Lola and try two original creations by GM and partner Matt McMullin. The Hemingway is a purple-tinted combo of absinthe, violet liqueur and Champagne. For Lola’s other best-selling absinthe drink, Arial (below), pomegranate liqueur, pomegranate juice and Moscato turn La Fee into a sweet, pink fairy. – Ligaya Figueras
photos by ashley gieseking
Small-batch American-made absinthe Greenway Distillers “Germain-Robin” Absinthe Supérieure (Redwood Valley, Calif.) | Integrity Spirits Trillium Absinthe Supérieure (Portland, Ore.) | Leopold Bros. Absinthe Verte (Denver, Colo.) | North Shore Sirène Absinthe Verte (Lake Bluff, Ill.) | Ridge Distillery Extrait D’Absinthe Blanche or Verte (Kalispell, Mont.) | Pacific Distillery “Pacifique” Absinthe Verte Supérieur (Woodinville, Wash.) | Square One Brewery & Distillery Starry Night Absinthe (St. Louis, Mo.) | St. George Absinthe Verte (St. Alameda, Calif.) | Philadelphia Distilling Vieux Carré Absinthe Supérieure (Philadelphia, Penn.) March 2012
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reviews For the porchetta sandwich, herbed pork that’s been wrapped in fatty pork belly and slow roasted until tender is served atop a house-made bun slathered with a bright rapini pesto.
new and notable: market grill p. 17 dine on a dime: dooley’s beef-n-brew house p. 21 nightlife: diablitos cantina p. 23
Changing the Name of the Game by Michael Renner • Photos by Jonathan gayman
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ast September, Market Grill closed for a few days to undergo a quick revamping. The space previously housed a restaurant called Griffin’s. Before that, it was Obie’s. The trouble in the building is to be expected. After all, this is Soulard – a place lined with every type of bar and eatery conceivable, where vice and revelry are par for the course. Here, being remarkable is not without its challenges.
When Market Grill reopened, the name on the door hadn’t changed. But everything else had. The restaurant had a new GM, Katie Shanahan, and a new chef, Jonathan Olson, both of whom had been hired to infuse Market Grill with something, well, remarkable. Olson, who made Sauce’s Ones to Watch list in 2009 and whose resume includes stints at The Terrace View and Erato, quickly created a seasonal, marketdriven menu that reflected his commitment to locally procured meats and homegrown produce, even that from his own garden. Baking bread, curing bacon, smoking meats, rolling pasta, making sausages and churning cheese are all within Olson’s vernacular. And for this trouble-torn Market Grill 728 venue, it’s a game-changer. Lafayette Ave., St. Louis, 314.436.7664, marketgrillsoulard.com
Olson seeks that fine balance between your go-to Friday night burgerand-beer neighborhood joint and a restaurant interesting enough to be a destination. The result, while not flawless, is somewhere in between: a kitchen that puts out simple yet creative dishes using local ingredients and a bar that touts local draft beers, a suitable wine list and an array of cocktails with catchy names like the Real Housewife of St. Louis and Who’s Drinking Gilbert Grape? Those sitting at the bar will do well with a bite or two from the “Bar Snacks” category of the menu. An order of four brisket-and-barley risotto balls – crispy, fragrant and chewy with smoky meat and plump barley – are dipped in a creamy, spicy sauce and popped in a flash. Soups, like the rest of the menu, are ever changing. So you may not get to revel in the deep-orange-glazed carrot soup, as I did. Pickled cauliflower floating on top served as a tangy foil to the carrot’s sweetness. A chicken-and-andouille
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review new and notable: Market Grill
At far left: A bowl of house-made tagliatelle is warm and comforting, tossed with Salume Beddu sausage, a Roman tomato confit, fresh herbs and thin Parmesan shavings.
herbed pork, wrapping it with slices of fatty pork belly, slow roasting it until tender and glistening, slicing it thick and serving it on a house-made bun slathered with rapini pesto.
The tagliatelle is house-made, and the mild Bolognese sausage – with notes of warm cinnamon and nutmeg – is from St. Louis’ own Salume Beddu. Toss with a confit of Roma tomatoes for richness, some fresh arugula for a bitter bite, parsley for a bright spark and a few shavings of Parmesan (because it’s important), and you have the only comfort food you need on a chilly evening. Dessert fiends can indulge happily. The Jonathan apples in our dessert were grown locally, the puff pastry baked by pastry chef Michael Hood and the salted caramel ice cream made in house. They married for an apple fritter that was salty, sugary, fruity, flaky. gumbo was flavorful, redolent with sage, but arrived tepid on a cold night. Should you find yourself craving fresh fish, order whatever is available that night from the “Big Plates” section 1) because it may not be available next time and 2) because Olson knows what he’s doing with seafood. One night there were sea scallops: five delicately sweet, plump jewels dusted with a hint of paprika, beautifully seared and served alongside butternut squash gnudi (Think lighter, more pillow-y gnocchi made from ricotta rather than potato.), tossed
Don’t Miss DishEs Porchetta sandwich, tagliatelle pasta and any seafood dish on the menu
with shiitake mushrooms and spinach and offering all the warmth and earthiness of the season. Another night it was Missouri farm-raised trout, baked in parchment. An aromatic cloud of moist heat escaped from the package as our server sliced it open, revealing a jumble of sliced onions, shallots, bell peppers and potatoes, the latter retaining a bit too much crunch. Underneath, a de-boned fillet was fresh and delicate in flavor, light in texture and infused with the flavors of the vegetables. Sadly, I missed the Atlantic striped bass seared in duck fat by a few weeks.
Vibe Approachable and casual enough for Friday burgers and beers, creative enough for diners wanting modestly priced, from-scratch fare.
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Two sandwiches from the lunch menu carry over to dinner: A cheeseburger made from Missouri grass-fed beef and a porchetta sandwich using Hinkebien Hills Farm’s pork. Both are sinfully rich and indulgent. The open-face burger consists of two 4-ounce patties, topped with melted cheese on housemade brioche with fresh lettuce, tomato and onions. A fine burger, indeed. But the egg-y, buttery, rich bun – combined with the cheese and fixings – drowned the flavor of the meat. A single thicker patty would make a stronger statement. That porchetta is worthy of a separate review, but imagine taking
EntrEe Prices $10 to $26
Where Market Grill, 728 Lafayette Ave., St. Louis, 314.436.7664, marketgrillsoulard.com
Market Grill recently started serving brunch on weekends, complete with an a la carte menu and breakfast cocktails including a bloody mary menu that lets you choose the ingredients you want in your spicy sipper. (I stopped short of ordering one with a bacondipped rim and mixed with bacon vodka and Sriracha.) The bacon is house-cured, gently smoked, thickly sliced and needs to be ordered crispy if that’s how you like it. The sausage has the smooth texture of the German variety rather than that of the rough-cut American breakfast sausage we’re used to. Nothing wrong with that. Hood also bakes the sourdough rye bread – a loaf so dense, so yeasty, so irresistable, I had to order a second serving. I can’t say the same for the cinnamon roll. It lacked the pungent, spicy punch and gooey stickiness expected of the breakfast pastry. Other morning disppointments: Boring coffee, oversalted hash browns and bland breakfast tacos. The space still features exposed brick walls and light wood floors and is sectioned into a bar area with tall dining tables, a middle dining area and that sunken room in the back that seems far from the action. It may have been the place to be one night when a raucous crowd of 12th-Night revelers streamed in to use the restrooms and mill around before hitting the streets again. To paraphrase Rodney Dangerfield (“I went to a fight the other night, and a hockey game broke out.”), let’s just say that, just as I was tucking into those scallops, a restaurant review broke out.
When Tues. to Thu. – 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Fri. – 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Sat. – 10 a.m. to 9 p.m., Sun. – 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. Bar open 1 hour later every night. March 2012
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review dine on a dime: Dooley’s Beef-n-brew house
New Digs, Same Great Burger by Dan and Anne Marie Lodholz | photos by Jonathan gayman
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Dooleyís Beef-N-Brew House 601 N. Grand Blvd., St. Louis, 314.531.7600, dooleys beefnbrew house.com
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There’s a certain irony about an English beefand-brew house that goes out of business on St. Patrick’s Day. In 2008, that happened to Dooley’s and St. Louis lost one of its best burger joints. Well, Dooley’s is back – and it’s touting new digs, a new owner (kinda) and the same great burger.
March 2012
blanket the burger and pick up all those meaty juices to create a succulently messy sauce. Our pick: the port wine cheddar – subtly sweet and decadently rich.
After One Too Many
1. Nostalgia This Way Owner Sean Dooley hasn’t forgotten the downtown roots of the restaurant his father, Alex Dooley, ran for four decades. Lovers of the first eatery will want to venture downstairs to the basement bar, where décor and signage from the original Dooley’s piques former regulars’ nostalgia.
2. The Cheese Burgers are 6 ounces and cost just $6.50, plus 50 cents for each topping you fancy. The patties come with a variety of soft cheeses (blue, onion, cheddar, port wine, roasted jalapeño) that are, upon request, dolloped atop with an ice cream scooper. Sure, you can opt for shredded Provel or a slice of Swiss or American, but why would you? The thing that makes Dooley’s unique is the way the creamed cheeses slowly
The Hooligan – a house-made patty topped with bacon, cheddar and an over-easy egg – is a breakfast-plus-lunch cure for the common hangover. The elegance of a golden yolk mingling with the meaty juices is just what’s required to settle an unruly soccer fan. Have a pint with it.
3. Pappy Stops By Barbecue junkies will love the Chicken Pappy, slathered in the signature sauce of the local ‘cue mecca. Sure it’s sloppy, but in a wet-barbecue, the-more-napkins-thebetter kind of way. With grilled pineapple, onion rings and smoky cheddar, notes of caramelized tropical fruit brighten the salty fried chicken.
4. Ballin’ Described as “ram jewels,” this new-tothe-menu take on Rocky Mountain oysters aren’t half-shells at all but rather – you guessed it – sheep testicles that have been
delicately breaded and bathed in toasty oil until crisp. Reminiscent of deep-fried sweetbreads, the tender and creamy snack is complemented by a side of zippy, Russian dressing-like Ram sauce.
5. Stay Out of the Water The Fish Chippy, two strips of flawlessly fried white fish, arrived under-dressed and under-salted, sitting atop a lowly hamburger bun (in lieu of the potato bread stated on the menu), a mild iceberg “slaw” and several winter tomatoes that couldn’t overcome the odds stacked against them. The fish was delicious, but the dressing lacked the acidity and vibrancy that a little more salt, some lemon or even a splash of Crystal’s hot sauce could’ve offered.
THE TAKEAWAY The ambiance may have changed, but the burgers haven’t. Dooley’s isn’t about fancy culinary pairings or grass-fed BS, it’s about a simple, affordable burger made the way you like it (and cooked perfectly). Is it the best in town? Maybe, maybe not. But after a lengthy absence, it sure is nice to be able to get a scoop of cheese on a burger again. saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 21
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review nightlife: Diablitos cantiina
Midtown’s Little Devil by Matt berkley • photos by ashley gieseking
this is becoming necessary in bars now, I do not know) Sierra Mist. A house margarita (thankfully minus the Sierra) was more satisfying but hardly worthy of the “best margarita in Missouri” moniker the menu boasted. Add another shot of tequila, and then we can talk. This is an area – a pretty basic one – where the bartenders will hopefully make some strides in as they get their feet wet. One area that doesn’t need ramping up: the cerveza selection, which is right where it needs to be in terms of price ($3 to $5 range) and options (a plethora of Especials, Pacificos, XXs, along with a number of Cathedral Square brews). The still-new wait staff is attentive but somewhat ill-informed regarding certain specifics on the menu, yet the bar is ably manned, even during the busiest of times.
ORDER THIS: Diablitos Cantina
Diablitos has done well to throw in a $2 Stag and 16-ounce PBR special on Fridays and Saturdays. (Those hapless undergrads thank you.) Fortunately, by 10 o’clock on weekend nights, the college crowd has completed its pregame drinking and skedaddled down Laclede, leaving a tamer crew who likes to relax and savor its infused spirits. Expect to see a diverse mix: preppie couples on date night, blue-collar Tecate-drinkers, sharp-dressed singles, random retirement-aged folks and crews of 20-something girls, decked out in their weekend best, sharing tall pitchers and giggling over long tables.
If you can’t sip it straight, get your tequila infused with flavor in the Pancho’s Pistol – a sweet mix of house-infused mango tequila, orange juice and grenadine.
Diablitos Cantina, 3761 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, 314.644.4430, diablitoscantina.com
T
ake a long, deep sip of a Pancho’s Pistol at Diablitos Cantina and you might find yourself back at that gritty side street in downtown Cancun after getting tossed from a nightclub. While eastern Missouri is hardly the Yucatán, Diablitos is a superior stand-in. With a central location and a built-in client base (The building is practically attached to SLU’s campus.), it’s surprising to think that any business peddling alcohol would have trouble covering overhead. Regardless, 3761 Laclede Ave., is one of those spaces seemingly doomed to fail. Prior to now, the spot played host to a Pasta House, and later, Iggy’s Mexican Cantina – the latter a sad excuse for a Mexican bar. This being the case, I couldn’t help but roll my eyes when I heard that another “cantina” was taking up the standard at this address. Turns out, things have changed for the better. Immediately upon entrance it’s clear that, this time around, somebody stepped in who knew what he was doing. The “he” is actually March 2012
In Good Company, the folks who developed Café Ventana and Sancturia, both standout venues. In Diablitos, the group looks to cash in on the concept of “Mexican street vendorthemed cantina,” awash with a variety of house-infused tequilas. Cleared away is any memory of Iggy’s: The tacky, Tex-Mex décor has been replaced with fine woodwork, hand-painted portraits, star pendant lights, wall-mounted candles and other delicate touches, all of which emit a dark, brooding 19th-century border-town cantina atmosphere. With spring in bloom, Diablitos will have one of the best drinking patios in the area. The size of the tequila selection is daunting. (More than 100 brands are kept in stock.) Not a fan of sippin’ it straight? The $6 house-infused tequila cocktail menu touts a few winners, i.e. that Pancho’s Pistol – a mix of mango-infused tequila, orange juice and grenadine. Less thrilling was the Dhamer Morado, a disappointing margarita concocted with hibiscus tequila, schnapps, Blue Curacao, lime juice and finally (why
The food menu touts several standout items, such as the Huarache: a Mexican pizza laced with refried beans, pico, chiles, lettuce, white cheese, a light cream and a choice of meat. Also commendable are the Baja fish tacos – lightly crusted tilapia, served with a spicy dollop of jalapeño tartar. Will Diablitos break the Laclede curse? Only time will tell. All of the elements are there – good concept, thoughtful tequila list, worthy nibbles. But until the bar gets its act together (and can at the very least shake up a great margarita), I suggest ordering your Cuervo or Patron straight up.
What’s tequila without the tacos? Don’t miss the Baja fish tacos, which trade out boring ol’ tartar for a jalapeño-spiked version.
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what in the world: black truffle sea salt p. 25 vegetize it: chocolate mousse p. 26 one ingredient, 7 ways: bacon p. 28 cook’s books: One Girl Cookies p. 31
black truffle sea salt? Sodium snobs love sea salt, a type of salt that is recovered through the evaporation of seawater. Fuse the gourmet’s go-to salt with another pricy vice – black truffles – and you’ll shake out some heady mushroom aroma and luxurious flavor that are worth the hefty price tag ($18). Use it: As a decadent seasoning for egg dishes, pastas, risottos, fish and meats. It brings french fries and simple vegetables to new heights. Sprinkle atop foccacia or flatbreads. Become addicted to black truffle sea salt-buttered popcorn. Find it: Di Olivas, 118 West County Center, Des Peres, 314.909.1171 and 617 S. Main St., St. Charles, 636.724.8282, stores.diolivas.com – Ligaya Figueras
French fries with black truffle sea salt and roasted garlic aioli 4 to 6 servings photo by greg rannells
1 head garlic 2 Tbsp. olive oil, divided Black truffle sea salt to taste Freshly ground black pepper to taste Vegetable oil
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4 lbs. russet potatoes ¹∕³ cup mayonnaise • Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. • Cut off the top of the garlic head to expose the cloves. Drizzle 1 tablespoon of olive oil on the garlic head, sprinkle with black truffle sea salt and black pepper. Wrap in foil and roast for 45 minutes. • Heat oil in a deep-fryer. (If you don’t have a deep-fryer, heat 4 to 5 inches of oil in a Dutch oven or large pot.) • Meanwhile, peel the potatoes. Slice lengthwise into ¼-inch slices, then into ¼-inch strips. Set in a bowl filled with cold water. When the oil is hot, drain the potatoes to remove excess water. • Working in batches deep-fry slices until golden yellow and crisp, then drain on a surface lined with a paper towel. Immediately sprinkle each batch of fries with black truffle sea salt. • When the garlic is finished roasting, squeeze the garlic cloves out of the peel and, using a food processor or potato masher, blend with the mayonnaise and remaining tablespoon of olive oil until smooth. Season with black truffle sea salt and black pepper to taste. Transfer to a serving bowl. • Transfer the hot fries to a bowl and, if desired, season with a few more pinches of black truffle sea salt. Serve with roasted garlic aioli.
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home cooking Vegetize it: chocolate mousse
Vegan Chocolate Mousse BY Kellie Hynes • Photo by Greg Rannells
I whipped up a batch of vegan mousse and casually served it to my husband without divulging the ingredients. He made a face that can only be described as a cat with a hairball. (It probably didn’t help that he’s ever-so-slightly allergic to avocados. Sorry, babe. Love you!) In spite of the other ingredients, the unsweetened cocoa made the mousse taste like dirt. I tried doubling the agave nectar – sweet dirt. I am an unapologetic ingredient snob. But maybe using premium, unsweetened cocoa was the problem. Perhaps bargain cocoa would be less cocoa-y, and therefore less bitter. Sure enough, I tested the recipe with two different, inexpensive cocoas. The cheapest cocoa yielded the tastiest mousse. The last hurdle was texture. My research recipes used a food processor to combine ingredients, but the mousse from our courtship was light as air. Trying to be clever, I used a mixer to whip in more volume.
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ong, long ago, my husband was a ladies’ man. He and his equally suave roommate dated so many St. Louis Metropolitan women ages 20 to 35, they made Joey Tribbiani look like Urkel. Sure, they were young and handsome and successful. But the real reason women (me) enjoyed their company (refused to leave) was the chocolate mousse. When either guy wanted to impress a new female friend, he would make her chocolate mousse from scratch. (“It’s Darin’s mom’s recipe. She’d like you.”) It was a romantic yet precisely calculated move, resulting in swooning 95 percent of the time. Because really, when homemade chocolate anything is on the table, who can resist? Well, a vegan.
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If I had declined the chocolate mousse for ethical reasons (instead of licking the bowl and moving in), would there have been a fourth date? And the subsequent kids, dog, mortgage? If chocolate equals seduction, how do you woo the dairyadverse? I searched for a vegan chocolate mousse recipe. Several called for mashing up avocados, adding unsweetened cocoa and drizzling the whole thing with agave nectar. It was just so weird; I had to try it. Now, I love avocados like I love a man who sends flowers. But if there’s a single slimy, bruised one in the produce section, I’ll inevitably bring it home (avocados, not men). If ever there was a time to select a decent avocado, this was it.
Duh. Know why those recipes used a food processor? Because it has a lid. Whirling beaters plus a pile of cocoa powder equals a giant, brown dust ball of doom covering the floor, ceiling and walls with cocoa film. Not ready to give up on my KitchenAid, I solved the problem by blending the avocado and cocoa by hand first, and then using the mixer. The mousse was tasting pretty good, but it still had a sharpness that would make it less appealing to fans of the real thing. I decided to finish it with a vegan whipped cream to smooth out the edges. A frozen banana blended with a splash of soy milk yielded a delicious dairy-free topping.
VEGAN CHOCOLATE MOUSSE WITH WHIPPED “CREAM” 6 SERVINGS 2 large bananas, sliced into small pieces 2 large ripe avocados ¼ cup plus 2 Tbsp. amber agave nectar ¹∕³ cup inexpensive unsweetened cocoa, such as Nestle Toll House Cocoa 2 Tbsp. chocolate almond milk 2 Tbsp. vanilla soy milk • Arrange the banana pieces on a plate so they aren’t touching. Freeze for at least 1½ hours. • Peel, pit and cut up the avocados. Place in a large mixing bowl. • Add the agave nectar and beat with a mixer on medium speed until there are no large lumps. • Fold in the cocoa with a spoon. • Add the chocolate almond milk, and beat with a mixer again until smooth. • Refrigerate until ready to serve. (This can be made up to 2 hours in advance.) • Meanwhile, make the vegan whipped cream: Take the plate of bananas out of the freezer and scrape the frozen pieces into a blender. Add the soy milk and pulse, stopping to scrape the sides, until smooth and creamy. • Spoon the mousse into bowls and garnish with a dollop of vegan whipped cream. Serve immediately.
Vegans, get ready for some ethical sinning. Kellie is an enthusiastic home co ok who believes she can m ake any thing if she just tries hard enough. However, she is still finding cocoa in the darnedest places. Follow her on T wit ter @KellieHynes
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home cooking one ingredient, 7 ways: bacon
Bringing Home the Bacon BY Kylah Brown, ligaya figueras and Meera Nagarajan • Photo by laura miller
1. Pasta Sauce contributors Dan and Anne Marie Lodholz credit Winslow’s Home’s Cary McDowell for inspiring what has become a family fave. Render ½ pound of chopped bacon until it begins to crisp. Add 1 small diced onion and saute until golden. Deglaze the pan with up to ¼ cup of bourbon. Add 1 pound of halved Brussels sprouts, season with salt and pepper, and cook until caramelized. When the Brussels have caramelized, add 1 tablespoon of butter and 1 ladle of hot chicken or vegetable stock. Repeat this process until you have built enough sauce for the pasta. Toss with al dente pasta and finish with Parmesan and red pepper flakes. 2. Bagels Fry 5 strips of bacon. Drain and chop finely, reserving bacon grease. In a large bowl, combine 1½ cups of flour and 2 teaspoons of active dry yeast. In a separate bowl, combine 2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons of sugar, 1 tablespoon of salt and 1¼ cup of warm water. Add to flouryeast mix. Add the bacon and bacon grease to mixture, stirring to mix well. In ¼-cup increments, add 1½ cups of additional flour to make a kneadable dough. Turn onto floured surface and knead until smooth. Cover. Let rest until doubled in size, about 1½ hours. Divide into 12 portions. With floured hands, shape into smooth balls. Poke hole in center with your finger and pull apart to form a bagel shape. Set on baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Cover. Let rise for 1 hour. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Boil bagels for 7 minutes, turning once. Drain. Bake for 35 minutes at 375 degrees. 3. Hot salad Fry 4 strips of bacon. Drain and crumble, reserving bacon grease. Combine 2 teaspoons of whole grain mustard with 3 teaspoons of apple cider vinegar. Set aside. Reheat the pan used to fry the bacon. Add 4 cups of fresh spinach and ¼ cup of thinly sliced red onion, stirring to coat with rendered bacon grease. Quickly stir in mustard and vinegar mixture. Add generous pinch of salt and sugar, and
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freshly ground black pepper to taste. Keep on heat until spinach is just wilted, less than 1 minute. Divide into 2 bowls, sprinkle with crumbled bacon and serve immediately. 4. Grits Fry 5 slices of bacon. Drain, then crumble. In the same frying pan, saute 1 jalapeño (deseeded and finely chopped) and ½ cup of finely chopped onion. Combine with crumbled bacon plus 3 dashes roasted jalapeño sauce (such as Smoke Canyon brand) in a bowl. Set aside. In a pot, combine 2¼ cups of whole milk and 2¼ cups of water. Bring to a boil. Whisk in 1 cup of quick-cooking grits, ¼ teaspoon of salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste. Reduce to low, stirring periodically. Cook 15 minutes or until creamy. Stir in bacon mix, plus 1 to 1½ cups (depending on taste) grated extra sharp cheddar cheese. Mix well. Cover and let sit 5 minutes or until cheese melts. 5. Peanut butter bacon sandwich In a skillet over medium-low heat, cook 3 pieces of thick-cut bacon until crisp (but not burnt). Drain. Toast 2 pieces of white bread. Generously spread creamy peanut butter on each piece. Layer bacon evenly on 1 piece of toast. Top with other piece. 6. Brownies Add ½ cup of semisweet chocolate chips and 2 tablespoons of bourbon to your favorite brownie batter. Pour ½ of batter into a 13-by-19-inch pan. Combine ¾ cup of caramel sauce, ½ teaspoon of salt and 4 strips of crumbled, crisp bacon. Heat the mixture in the microwave and pour onto the batter in an even layer. Cover with remaining batter. Bake for 30 minutes at 350 degrees. 7. Praline bacon To make Monarch’s Josh Galliano’s addictive candied bacon, preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Place 1 pound of thick-sliced bacon on a foil-lined sheet pan. Do not overlap strips. Cook for 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and cool to room temperature. In a food processor, pulse 1 cup of light brown sugar with 1 cup of chopped pecans. Distribute nut mixture over the bacon slices, covering the tops of the bacon completely. Bake for 10 to 15 minutes or until crisp but the nuts haven’t burned. Remove from the oven and let cool for 3 minutes before serving.
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review
One Girl Cookies
Cook’s books: one girl cookies
by Shannon Parker
By now you’ve probably given up on all those virtuous resolutions you made back in January. So why not embrace the present? Put away those recipes for kale smoothies and carrot salads, and break out the hand mixers, whisks and sheet pans. Let’s get ready to bake. Here to help pave your pastry path: One Girl Cookies, a recently released book that will have your sweet tooth back in a big way just as you begin to ponder bikini season. (Sorry) The book showcases recipes featured at One Girl Cookies, a quaint Brooklyn bakery that (despite its name) is actually headed up by husband-and-wife team Dawn Casale and David Crofton. The pair has put together a collection of crowd-pleasing recipes, most of which carry a slight retro feel that we’re seeing on dessert menus across the board these days. Toasted Almond Coconut Macaroons, Orange Butter Drops with Shredded Coconut, and Old-Fashioned Lemon Bars are a few such strolls down memory lane.
The recipes themselves are nothing groundbreaking but rather perfectly suited for those just beginning to undertake the sweet science. The clean layout, the clear directions (nearly all on one page) and the easily accessible ingredients all contribute to a user-friendly feel that’s missing from the coffee-table tomes dominating the cookbook market these days. Even more, full-color photographs accompany nearly every recipe – a necessity in any book aimed at beginners. I was surprised to see that, even though the title of both the book and the bakery is One Girl Cookies, fewer than half of the recipes are actually dedicated to the disc-shaped sweet. Sections on cakes, breakfast items, pies and tarts round things out. And, of course, what cute bakery cookbook would be complete without a section on cupcakes? “The” dessert of the moment – the whoopie pie – also makes an appearance in a section that touts creative flavor variations for the
trendy confection that the bakery’s best known for. Even for a book about sweets, though, One Girl Cookies has some overly precious elements I could live without. From the story of Casale and Crofton’s engagement (Hint: It involved words spelled out in cookies.) to how Casale named various cookies for her relatives (Espresso Caramel Squares go by the moniker “Lucia.”), it’s just two steps past the twee line for my taste. Kitsch aside, One Girl Cookies is chockfull of recipes that will excite and inspire the novice baker – and make her plot out those weekend projects for the next six months. Sure, I could’ve done without the overdone cupcakes and cheesy nicknames, but is there any better way to kiss those resolutions goodbye than with a handheld Pumpkin Whoopie Pie with Maple Spice Filling? I think not.
One Girl Cookies: Recipes for Cakes, Cupcakes, Whoopie Pies and Cookies from Brooklyn’s Beloved Bakery by Dawn Casale and David Crofton
Wondering how Casale and Crofton’s sugary confections translate to the home cook? Check out By the Book this month on the blog at SauceMagazine.com to find out and to enter for a chance to win a copy of One Girl Cookies.
Four books for perfecting the art of pastry St. Louis has its own husband-and-wife baking duo, Agi and Aaron Groff, who man the ovens at their 4 Seasons Bakery in St. Charles. The pair suggested these cookbooks for those hoping to master the science of satisfying that sweet tooth. Great Cookies: Secrets to Sensational Sweets by Carole Walter “This is a great cookbook for the cookie-lover. Every recipe comes with a picture and very detailed instructions.”
photo by carmen troesser
Chocolate Epiphany: Exceptional Cookies, Cakes and Confections for Everyone by François Payard and Anne E. McBride “You can’t go wrong with this book. Seriously, every recipe in it sounds delicious and it’s hard to decide what to make first. [It’s] just a beautiful book.”
March 2012
The Last Course: The Desserts of Gramercy Tavern by Claudia Fleming “This book is divided seasonally into chapters using fruits, vegetables, nuts, herbs, dairy, spices and chocolate. It’s out of print so we consider ourselves lucky to have a copy of it.”
The Sweet Life: Desserts from Chanterelle by Kate Zuckerman “It’s full of delicious recipes for anything from tarts, cakes and cookies to soufflès, mousses and chocolates. Plus, Zuckerman means ‘sugar man’ in German so you know she was destined to become a great pastry chef!”
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Resurgin’ bourbon An all-American spirit rises again by ligaya figueras | photos by carmen troesser
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D
istillers throughout the world make whiskey, but bourbon, now that’s a spirit born in the USA. But we haven’t always waved the flag for this native son. American whiskey – both bourbon and rye – took a dive in the 1970s vodka heyday and finally bottomed out in the 1990s. But if America is known for one thing, it’s innovation. And now, such novel thinking has primed an all-American comeback, leading this corn-based spirit’s long-awaited return to the barfly’s snifter. “The explosion occurred in the last five years,” said Dave Davis, resident whiskey expert at The Wine Merchant in Clayton, “but it started about 10 years ago with a gradual expanse in popularity. People realized how good American whiskey was.”
March 2012
the revival. “Bartenders were using it for mixing,” he noted, “and then people started drinking it neat and exploring bourbon as a liquor.” Local bartenders attest to using more bourbon than ever. “We go through one case of Four Roses Yellow Label a week,” said T.J. Vytlacil, co-owner of downtown bar/restaurant Blood & Sand. “That’s a lot of bourbon.” The Scotch-based classic cocktail may be the namesake for Vytlacil’s members-only venue, but he estimates that between 35 and 40 percent of all cocktails prepared at Blood & Sand require reaching for a bottle of amberhued bourbon. “It’s such a versatile spirit,” he mused. “It can add a boozy component or you can use it like rum because it’s a little bit sweeter.”
bourbon adjunct professors happy. Adding more rye to a mash bill, for instance, results in more spice, a cherry-wood flavor and a dry character, qualities that resonate with bourbon cognoscenti who desire flavor and complexity. Wheat, meanwhile, offers a mellow roundness, while barley brings creaminess and grainy sweetness, both of which can be used to make a smoother, sweeter bourbon to appeal to recent converts. Area bartenders are also trying to win over bourbon-lovers old and new. This is no more evident than behind the bar at Sanctuaria, where a cask of 12-year Elijah Craig Bourbon sits. Bar manager Matt Seiter traveled to Kentucky-based Heaven Hill Distillery to hand-select the variety, which was bottled exclusively for the restaurant.
Today, distilleries use catch words like “small batch,” “single barrel” and “barrel strength” to drive sales and create new interest in this born-again spirit. Buffalo Trace Distillery has grown its audience by enticing imbibers with a massive portfolio of single-barrel, well-aged and wheated whiskeys, plus an annual Antique Collection of limited releases and experimental bourbons.
Bourbon-based cocktails – from classics like a Manhattan to original creations like Mr. Black – comprise nearly 30 percent of drink sales at Taste in the Central West End, a cocktail haven whose speakeasy style bespeaks the spirit’s first climb up the liquor ladder. Beverage director Ted Kilgore points back to the distillers for broadening bourbon’s appeal. “They are trying hard to make whiskeys that people who don’t like whiskey would like.”
The bourbon resurgence has even seen the birth of distilleries beyond the hollowed borders of Kentucky and Tennessee. Tuthilltown Spirits is making the first bourbon in New York state since Prohibition and, on the other side of the Great Divide, distilleries like Utah-based High West are creating an eclectic whiskey expression by blending bourbon and rye in a product known as Bourye.
Yet the company’s master distiller, Harlen Wheatley, is hard-pressed to take credit for the bourbon boon, rather citing the craft cocktail resurgence for jump-starting
It’s a trend that has expanded the bourbon market, with distillers experimenting with bourbon’s basic elements to both establish a new school of bourbon drinkers and keep
This democracy of ours hasn’t had a king for more than two centuries, but beware: The House of Bourbon may soon reign this side of the lake.
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Sip it
Looking to explore the world of bourbon? Sip your way through the single-barrel, well-aged and special-reserve bourbons at these area restaurants, whose bars are stocked with extensive selections of this born-again spirit.
Blood & Sand 1500 St. Charles St., St. Louis, 314.241.7263, bloodandsandstl.com Brennan’s Wine, Food & Tobacco 4659 Maryland Ave., St. Louis, 314.361.9444 Morton’s The Steakhouse 7822 Bonhomme Ave., Clayton, 314.725.4008, mortons.com/stlouis Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse 1 N. Brentwood Blvd., Clayton, 314.783.9900; 315 Chestnut St., St. Louis, 314.259.3200, ruthschris.com
Whiskey is the result of mashing a cereal, fermenting it into a beer, and then distilling and aging it. What distinguishes bourbon is that it must be made from a mash containing at least 51 percent corn, distilled to a maximum of 160-proof and aged in new, charred, oak barrels for at least two years.
Taste 4584 Laclede Ave., St. Louis, 314.361.1200, tastebarstl.com The Lobby Lounge at The Ritz-Carlton, St. Louis 100 Carondelet Plaza, Clayton, 314.863.6300, ritzcarlton.com/stlouis Tony’s 410 Market St., St. Louis, 314.231.7007, saucecafe.com/tonys Truffles 9202 Clayton Road, Ladue, 314.567.9100, trufflesinladue.com
Become a savvy bourbon-sipper Neat or on the rocks? Area bartenders agree that there are no hard-and-fast rules when it comes to drinking bourbon. “It depends on the bourbon,” said TJ Vytlacil, co-owner of Blood & Sand, where customers
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who ask for their bourbon adorned with rocks or water get just that – on the side. Sippers who order bourbon and water receive a small glass of cold water on the side and are urged to add some after every few sips. Those who order their bourbon on the rocks are presented with a separate glass filled with ice and a pair of tongs, giving them the option to add as many or as few cubes as they’d like.
Which glass? If you order your whiskey neat at Taste, bar manager Ted Kilgore will give you 2 undiluted ounces in a port glass, never a brandy snifter. If you order it on the rocks, you’ll get your whiskey in a rocks glass with your preference of one of Taste’s specialty 2-inch cylindrical cubes or a couple 1¼-inch square Kold Draft cubes, both preferred for higher-proof bourbons.
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buy it
1. 5.
Want to get the best bourbon for your buck? Look for these labels on the shelves at your favorite well-stocked liquor store. Some well-aged whiskeys on the list are harder to find, so snatch a bottle when you see it.
1. $1-$25 Buffalo Trace Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
4. $75-$100 Jefferson’s Presidential Select 18-Year-Old Single Barrel Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey “Fantastic. Rich, concentrated flavors: loads of butter toffee, brickle, candy notes, also a nice little bit of spice on the finish. A really great viscosity.” Dave Davis, The Wine Merchant
5. $100 Wild Turkey “Tradition” 14-Year-Old Straight Bourbon Whiskey
3. 2.
“An absolute bargain. Good for straight drinking.” Dave Davis, The Wine Merchant
“One of the best whiskeys in the world. Almost port-like. The oldest master distiller living is still doing this product.” Ted Kilgore, Taste
2. $25-$50 Black Maple Hill Small Batch Bourbon
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“One of the best. Sweetness, some smokiness, some maple syrup. It’s so balanced.” TJ Vytlacil, Blood & Sand
3. $50-$75 George T. Stagg Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey “[Buffalo Trace Distillery] releases it once a year. It’s robust and full-bodied. Amazing flavors. It’s unfiltered and potent at 140-proof.” Ted Kilgore, Taste
March 2012
What distinguishes one bottle of bourbon from another? Besides the mash bill, water, yeast strain, fermentation period, distillation method, strength, aging duration and even where the barrel rests in the rickhouse all influence the flavor of bourbon, making each barrel unique.
4.
6. Splurge Michter’s 25-Year-Old Single Barrel Bourbon “The best label I’ve ever had. Rich color. The nose was outstanding. Layers and layers of flavor: caramel, nut, chocolate and intense spice. Great taste and mouth feel. The whole experience is fantastic and it finishes really strong – the taste lingers in your mouth five minutes after you taste it.” Ted Kilgore, Taste Note: This is one of the toughest bourbons to find. If you’re lucky enough to track down a bottle, buy a lottery ticket.
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Take it from the Manhattan In its essence, a Manhattan is a three-ingredient drink:
Bourbon
2 parts whiskey 1 part sweet vermouth 2 dashes bitters Stir with ice. Strain into glass. Garnish with cherry or lemon twist. Dry vermouth
Bianco vermouth Sweet vermouth
Cherry Heering maraschino liqueur
Angostura bitters amer picon
Lemon twist Grenadine Once upon a time, spicier rye was the de facto spirit for a Manhattan. Now, it’s bourbon. We’ve arrived at the “why not?” age of mixology, so why not get adventurous? Modify the liquor, bitters and garnishes, and you’ll meet some tasty cousins to what some consider the finest cocktail on the face of the earth.
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Absinthe
ORANGE BITTERS Lemon twist
Maraschino cherry
BIANCO MANHATTAN
REMEMBER THE MAINE
orange twist
OLD PAL
DEADLY SIN
maraschino liqueur
BROOKLYN
DRY MANHATTAN
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order it 1. Manhattan These days, bourbon trumps rye in this old-guard drink. Bitters, however, are nonnegotiable. JFires’ Market Bistro, jfires.com 2. Sidecar Bourbon instead of cognac. Now we’re talking a New Orleans sour that’s really made in the USA. Ruth’s Chris Steakhouse, ruthschris.com
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3. Bacon & Eggs Fizz Eclipse owner Joe Edwards has three faves: bacon, bourbon and burgers. This cocktail bats two-for-three using bacon-infused 10-yearold Old Fitzgerald Bourbon. Eclipse, eclipsestlouis.com 4. Just Like Mom’s If Mom always made her apple pie as tasty as this liquid version (hand-selected Elijah Craig 12-YearOld Bourbon, Amaro Montenegro, housemade orgeat syrup and baked apple bitters), we’d actually consider moving back home. Sanctuaria, sanctuariastl.com 5. K-T Flip Bourbon and red wine could be a hellish union that ends in divorce, but Four Roses Bourbon with a Tuscan red makes for a lasting marriage in this flip-style sipper. Monarch, monarchrestaurant.com
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6. Mint Julep Choice mint. Enough crushed ice. No flair necessary when this Derby Day classic is done right. The Royale, theroyale.com 7. Whiskey Sour Maker’s Mark with a house-made sour mix. Get comfy. You’re gonna order a second. The Lobby Lounge at The Ritz-Carlton, St. Louis, ritzcarlton.com 8. Old-Fashioned Will it be Wild Turkey or Maker’s Mark? Morton’s has plenty of bourbon labels on the shelves. You call it. Morton’s The Steakhouse, mortons.com/stlouis 9. Canned Cocktail We’re Midwesterners. We know all about canning. We just didn’t do it to cocktails. Until now. Blood & Sand, bloodandsandstl.com
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by matt berkley, kylah brown, byron kerman and michael renner 38 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com
Photo by Ashley Gieseking
A man once said that nothing good happens after midnight. Well, he never had Five Bistro’s poutine. Let’s be honest: There is no litmus test for late-night food. Its delectability is entirely subjective – and usually commensurate with the amount of booze consumed. But while the sensible among us are catching some shut-eye, local chefs are keeping the lights (and ovens) on to turn out dishes that are as creative as they are crave-worthy for the witchinghour crowd. From indulgent dishes that will soak up the evening’s sins to light bites meant to satisfy the discerning nibbler, staying up late has never tasted so good.
March 2012
500 N. 14th St., St. Louis, 314.621.7277, welovelola.com The vibe: Bring your A-game and dancing shoes. When: Fri. to Sun. – 11 p.m. to 2 a.m. What to drink: Cupples Station: Courvoisier, winter pear liqueur with a splash of sour What to eat: Chicken and waffles What to see: Bottles taken to VIP tables come with spectacular sparklers attached.
March 2012
At Lola, the throwback tunes – Ooh, that is my jam! – will make you want to bust a move every few seconds, so finding time to grab a table can prove challenging. Luckily, everything is served on paper plates or in cardboard boats, lest the intoxicated drop their dish on the dance floor. The late-night menu is short and sweet. Creole crab cakes arrived looking somewhat deflated and casting greasestain shadows on their cardboard container. But boy, were looks deceiving. Delicately fried and chock-full of tender chunks of crab and crawfish, these delightful balls were devoured promptly after a dip in a salty, spicy Cajun aioli. The chicken and waffles, drizzled with warm honey butter with a touch of maple, were by far the winner: salty, sweet, fried, carb-y protein heaven. Eat this and you’ll have enough stamina to do the running man back and forth across the dance floor all night long.
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1405 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.707.7512, smashbarstl.com
Photo by jonathan gayman
The vibe: Buzzed clubgoers looking for calories to soak up the booze. What to drink: Order up lots of high-octane booze and yell to be heard over the blaring beats. When: Tues. to Sat. – until 1 a.m. What to eat: Sliders and fries for the win What to see: The portrait of Elvis painted on velvet behind the bar
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5100 Daggett Ave., St. Louis, 314.773.5553, fivebistro.com
March 2012
The vibe: Cozy and upscale, but not pretentious: a place where adults converse, not chatter When: Thu. to Sat. – 10 p.m. to midnight What to drink: A glass of wine from the impressive list or a well-crafted cocktail What to eat: Poutine What to see: The paint-oncanvas reproductions of works by Polish art deco painter Tamara de Lempicka It’s 10:30 on a Saturday night; you’re looking spiffy and not ready to be tucked in. A little nosh sounds just right. Lucky for you, chef Anthony Devoti added an after-10 menu to his charming bistro where practically everything is
3224 Locust St., St. Louis, 314.535.2686, plushstl.com
five bistro photo by jonathan gayman; plush photo by laura miller
Stumbling out of the club and in search of some greasy goods? Smash Bar’s simple late-night menu of fast food-inspired items (all served in brown paper bags) are intended to keep partiers on their feet – and away from the golden arches. Sliders are grilled amidst a flurry of onions – a secret step that imparts an addictive oniony flavor on the bitesized burgers – and topped with cheese sauce and ketchup. Fries, sprinkled with a Creole seasoning, arrive in a portion that can only be described as enormous, surely big enough to split between three (only if you feel like sharing, of course). Other goodies include crab Rangoon, hot wings and sweet potato fries. But the real reason to stop by is the PBB – peanut butter and bananas sandwiched together, sautéed in garlic and topped with honey (We don’t know how, but the garlic really works here.) Sweet, salty and endlessly indulgent – this humble sandwich is the stuff of late-night revelers’ dreams.
The vibe: Eclectic playhouse populated with casually dressed young professionals, local loftdwellers and the college crowd When: Daily until 1 a.m. What to drink: A local microbrew – sipped, not slammed What to eat: Meatloaf cupcakes What to see: Every corner of the impressive space Wandering Midtown Alley in search of a late-night bite? Tuck inside Plush, where copious spirits and smart, inexpensive eats await. At this four-story music venue, bar and eating house, artsy décor and a mellow vibe meld with a menu touting
locally sourced and made in-house (The guy even gets whole hogs delivered and takes it from there!). Smaller appetites will go for tidy snacks like housemade pickles and marinated olives, or a cheese plate served with local honey, candied nuts and fig jam. The indulgent will opt for poutine – a French-Canadian heart-stopper Devoti classes up with Ozark Forest mushroom gravy and a confit of whatever meat he has on hand, housemade ricotta and fries made from fancy Rissi Farm potatoes. Still hungry? Go for the extraordinary (and legendary): Five’s burger is made from Missouri grassfed beef (ground in-house) and served with an array of fixings (each sold separately), including fries and a slew of house-made dippers.
comforting classics with innovative twists. Executive chef David Zimmerman and his crew handcraft all items in-house, from the buns to the bacon – and all the sauces, pickles and sausages in between. Catering to the crossover of late hours into the early morning ones, breakfast is available all day, as are a slew of salads, sandwiches and desserts. For a hefty treat, grab a spicy crawfish roll – a true monster of a sandwich, served up with a zesty apple slaw. But don’t leave without an order of the meatloaf cupcakes. Three mini meat patties are topped with tri-colored potato frosting (a piping of mashed sweet, regular and purple Japanese sweet spuds) and swimming in a roasted garlic demisauce. Diner food donning from-scratch roots? Now that’s an insomniac’s saving grace.
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$450
$15,859
$60
$50
$ 140
Breville Juice and Blend
Wolf Duel-Fuel Range
Cuisinart ICE-21 Frozen Yogurt-Ice Cream and Sorbet Maker
Messermeister Cheflamme Food Torch with fuel gauge
Emerilware by T-Fal Deep Fryer with Integrated Oil Filtration System
Most juice extractors get choked up when whole fruits and vegetables come their way. But for this 5-speed, 1200-watt monster, it’s child’s play.
Model DF606CG with six burners, charbroiler and griddle, please. Send the bill to my husband.
We’ve come so far from the old salt-and-shake versions, haven’t we? Because when it comes down to it, we all just want a little rocky road in our life.
Sear meat, melt cheese, brown meringue, caramelize fruit, roast peppers … there’s so much more to set on fire than creme brulee.
A filtration system. That makes frying healthy, right?
$60. Kitchen Conservatory, 8021 Clayton Road, Clayton, 314.862.2665, kitchenconservatory.com
$50. Bertarelli Cutlery, 1927 Marconi Ave., St. Louis, 314.664.4005, bertarellicutlery. com (Model: FT960)
$450. Williams-Sonoma, 260 Plaza Frontenac, Frontenac, 314.567.9211, williams-sonoma. com (Model BJB840XL)
$15,859. Designer Appliances by Lemcke, 104 W. Lockwood Ave., Kirkwood, 314.968.7575, designerappliancesbylemcke.com, special order only
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$140. macys.com (Model: FR702D001)
March 2012
TEXT BY KYLAH BROWN, LIGAYA FIGUERAS, MEERA NAGARAJAN AND STACY SCHULTZ
Appliance Envy
Everyone dreams of the perfect kitchen, lined with every cooktop, stand mixer and sous vide sensation you could ever need. But there’s always something better, faster and sharper to splurge on. Divulge our inner most kitchen fantasies? We thought you’d never ask.
Ten speeds, 26 colors, and big enough to mix, whip or knead up to four loaves of bread. An unchanged retro design allows endless vintage attachments for your culinary pleasure. It’s a home cook’s divine right to own one of these babies. $400. macys.com (Model KSM150PS)
KitchenAid Artisan 5-Quart Stand Mixer
$400
Boils a quart of water in 101 seconds. Now that’s a timesaver. $1,438. Goedeker’s Superstore, 13850 Manchester Road, Ballwin, 636.207.7277, special order only
GE Profile 36-inch Electric Induction Cooktop
$1,438
A fancy espresso machine is nothing without the perfect grinder. With 25 grind settings, an LCD display and a doser that automatically recalibrates every time you adjust the grind, you’ll leave your dinner guests brighteyed – and jealous as all hell. $200. Crate and Barrel, 1 The Boulevard, Richmond Heights, 314.725.6380, crateandbarrel. com (Model: BCG800XL)
Breville Smart Grinder (Burr Grinder)
This huge fridge and freezer is like the Rolls Royce of refrigeration: spacious, gorgeous and completely luxurious. Sub Zero BI-36F All Freezer $7,270 and BI-36 R All Refrigerator $6,970. subzero-wolf.com
If we ever wanted to roast a whole pig or six turkeys or 18 chickens at one time, we would need: a lot of hungry people and a La Caja China. This “magic box” roasts copious amounts of meat to tender perfection every time. $350 sears.com
Sub Zero fridge and freezer
La Caja China 100-Pound Roaster
$14,240
$350
$200
Total cost: $33,187 March 2012
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March 2012
How Scott Carey finally found his calling – and why it just might lead to the best cup of coffee this town has ever tasted by stacy schultz | photos by carmen troesser
March 2012
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cott Carey stands behind the bar at Sump Coffee, making a pour-over. Every 10 seconds or so, he lifts his right hand, moving it in a circular motion just inches above the wood-collared carafe, letting a slow stream of hot water empty from the kettle’s swan-like neck. He carefully wets each of the grounds piled inside, giving them due time to drink up before beginning the next pour. He has wet the filter, measured the beans, ground them, started the timer and briefed me on the tasting notes of today’s bean. Now all that is left to do is pour. And wait. It is a routine I had come to expect, one Carey had adhered to since the first time I stopped by the shop he opened late last year and mentioned my fondness for the full-flavored cup the hand-brewing method produces. “I like French press, too,” I muttered one morning in an effort to shed my guilt for the time and focus my preference required of him. But he insists. Time is something Carey has quite a bit of right now. Time to hand-select beans from micro-roasters across the country. Time to troubleshoot extraction issues with fellow baristas around town. Time to test and retest the best brewing method for each new bean that arrives at his South City coffeehouse. Time to make the perfect pour-over. His shop bespeaks the varied and contradicting path of its owner – an intersection of creativity and precision, science and indecision, minimalism with tinges of indulgence. Refurbished wooden planks line everything from the floor beneath my feet to the arc-shaped bar, whose top looks different each time I stop in. Some days it’s scattered with enough hand-blown glass structures to fill a high-school chem lab, others, it’s scant – just the Slayer and Faema espresso
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machines, a four-foot Kyoto cold drip brewer and scales. Behind the bar, two beige wooden doors that once led into Carey’s New York City apartment are mounted with a Southeast Asian Buddha perched in between. Snag one of the two small, leather-tufted chairs near the back wall, and you’ll catch a glimpse of all six volumes of Nathan Myhrvold’s Modernist Cuisine tucked onto the shelf behind the bar. Just above, a painting of a half-naked pin-up in garters and heels. When Carey first purchased the corner building at 3700 S. Jefferson Ave., less than a minute’s drive from the ceramic Indian
“The entire time in my life when I started to futz around and be dissatisfied with law, I tried to create. ... The point that I realize I’m not a natural at something is the point when I have a tendency to give up on that something.” saluting the entrance to Cherokee Street, the timing seemed perfect. The Manhattan law firm where he had been doing in-house licensing work had recently imploded and he had been spending more and more time in his native St. Louis – where $20 a square foot seemed almost free compared to $900 back in New York. “I thought, we’ll buy this building and I’ll work on it with my brother and when he does chemo, I’ll have a room, a place for him to stay,” Carey said, throwing his arm toward the store’s back room, now scarcely populated by a couple of chairs, a newly constructed (un-sanded and unpainted) wall and a custom-built 1995 Sportster motorcycle.
He also missed coffee. It had become a passion of his ever since he walked into Ninth Street Espresso in New York’s Alphabet City six years earlier and ordered a latte at the tiny, bare-bones coffee shop just a stone’s throw from his apartment. “The guy’s name was Bob,” Carey recalled. “He was from Portland, Oregon, and he was grumpy and had sailor tattoos and a non-ironic mustache. He made me a latte and he put a rosette on it and put a lid next to me and looked at me with a frown. I was like, what the fuck? I’m gonna put a lid on this? This is amazing.” It was a gateway drug – the cup that made Carey see coffee not as a fungible commodity but as a seasonal, agricultural product; something you crave not because of what it can do but for the art form it is, an ever-evolving dance of quality, flavor, execution. After that day, Carey began consuming as much good coffee as possible. Coffee’s third wave was just making its way from San Francisco and Seattle onto the hipster streets of Brooklyn and lower Manhattan, and he was there to order a cup at each new shop: Grumpy, Gimme, Abrasso, La Colombe. Consumption quickly transformed into passion and, from there, curiosity. Convinced good milk work could cover up any bad bean, he first focused on milk – how to achieve the perfect sweetness, texture and temperature. Next, he tracked down every espresso bar in the city to see how different baristas pulled a shot. He soon moved on to brewing methods. The urge to create was nothing new for Carey. “The entire time in my life when I started to futz around and be dissatisfied with law, I tried to create,” he said, pointing to the basement that’s now home to guitar books, a half-built motorcycle and thousands of dollars worth of fancy photography equipment. “Because I had money, I would spend a lot of money on hobbies that I wouldn’t fulfill because they were too frustrating. The point that I realize I’m not a natural at something is the point when I have a tendency to give up on that something.”
March 2012
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1. Carey saw the renovation of the old South City building as a way to grieve his brother’s death. The tools he used were those his brother left behind, marked with his nickname, Gypsy. 2. Below, Carey cold-brews coffee using a behemoth four-foot-tall Japanese Kyoto structure. The resulting brew, above, is lighter and less acidic than a traditional cup with a reddish, almost amber hue. 3. A peek at Carey’s precise notes for the many hand-brew methods he offers at Sump Coffee. 4. Carey is constantly testing new beans on his Slayer espresso machine, an appliance with a cult-like following that sits in only a handful of shops across the country. 5. Carey turned the back room of his coffeehouse into a motorcycle shop after he saw a similar setup in a photography book he read years earlier.
March 2012
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The latte Carey ordered at NYC’s Ninth Street Espresso back in 2006 changed the way he looked at coffee, leading him on a path to learn how to craft the perfect cup.
“I can’t imagine what you go through,” Scott said, hanging his head and rubbing his left eye with his finger. “We all have to go through it; I think about it all the time. In a way, that’s why I got this,” he said, pulling up his right T-shirt sleeve to reveal the design of an imperial garden lion that runs down his arm and across his chest. “I saw him suffering and I thought, I hate needles. Can I handle it? What am I made of?” Scott chose a Tebori-style tattoo – a Japanese method that takes twice as long to complete and uses a long rod with several needles attached to its end. The process took nearly 36 hours to complete. When he returned, he knew he could give up. He could sell the building, go back to New York, get another job practicing law. But his thoughts turned to his brother.
“Tell me what you think,” Carey said, instructing me to wait 30 seconds before pouring the freshly brewed coffee into the small, white mug he set in front of me. “It’s OK,” I said after sipping, revealing that I wished I tasted some of the blueberry notes I’d picked up in the pourover he made me a few days earlier. “Yea, it’s no good,” he conceded after tasting the amber-hued liquid in another tiny mug. “Like this better?” He hands me a paper cup filled with the extraction of a bean he brewed moments before I walked in. As I nod, he empties the hand-blown hourglass carafe with the still-hot coffee and fills my cup with the new brew. Carey and his brother, Jeff, had never had much in common. Scott averaged a 3.99 GPA during undergrad and, by 31, he had acquired a master’s in chemistry and a law degree from UC-Berkeley. He spent the next decade or so weaving his way up the corporate ladder, taking home six figures from fancy Manhattan firms and wearing suits and a lot of French blue shirts “because that was all the rage.” Jeff – or as most referred to him, Gypsy – was more accustomed to old pocket tees and mud-stained jeans. He dropped out of school, was bigger and more physical than his brother, and was more comfortable holding a hammer than a fountain pen.
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Despite their differences, the two were quite close. They didn’t speak daily, or even weekly. But when they did, it was positive, natural, as if time had never ticked by. So when Jeff was diagnosed with Ewing sarcoma – a cancer that grows in the bone or soft tissue – at the age of 36, it hit Scott on the head like a hammer on a nail. By the time the doctors found the tumor, it was 54 centimeters wide and practically wrapped around Jeff’s kidney. There was little to do, they said, but cut out much of the left side of his abdomen. Carey was sitting at an oyster bar in the West Village when he got the call from Jeff’s doctor telling him he needed to come to St. Louis. “I don’t know when …,” he heard the voice trail off on the other end. As Scott moved home to be with his brother, that inner voice – the one accountable for the guitars and the motorcycles and the cameras – hit a near-deafening pitch. His brother was a craftsman. He created things for a living. He was proud of it. It was time for Scott to do the same. Scott closed on the building at the corner of Jefferson and Winnebago Streets on Oct. 10 of last year. Jeff died nine days later.
“It was hot in July and it was really beating him up because he had just had some chemo and I remember him saying, ‘It’s gonna be a lot of work.’ I thought he meant, oh, I’m a girlie man; I’ve never held a hammer; I’m a pencil-pushing dude. I won’t be able to handle physical labor. But he really meant, it’s going to be a lot of work. He was trying to protect me. He was worried I was going to throw all this money down this hole.” And so he began to work. In moments of rage, he’d tear down a wall, rip out the carpet, scrape plaster from the wall. When he sought quiet meditation, he’d build a new wall or put in a window. “It really was a lot of work. When I was in the building over the winter last year and it was cold and dusty and shitty, I would hear his voice. Sometimes mocking me, sometimes encouraging me. But he was always saying ‘it’s gonna be a lot of work.’ … All the tools I have to build this, they’re not my tools. I didn’t bring them from my New York apartment. They all have his name on them. Each day when I built it, his name is written on all the tools. He’s here.” Carey opened the doors to Sump Coffee on Dec. 1. It was a risk. In a time when the commercial world sells single-serve cups customers can hold in mere seconds, he was banking on consumers who want to sit down and chat about the bean, where it’s from, the brewing method that best reveals its flavors.
To keep his doors open, Carey will have to compensate for a less-than-ideal location, slow hand-brew methods and a lack of talls, grandes, ventis (one size for a cappuccino, one for a pour-over). He knows he can’t do it alone. A student at heart, he quickly became frustrated after moving to St. Louis that he couldn’t find the coffee cognoscenti he harbored in New York. So he reached out. He began holding occasional barista “meet ups” at the shop. Fellow coffee geeks would come in after hours to test a new bean, troubleshoot brewing issues or discuss burgeoning new roasters. “Mike Marquard came in today,” Carey said of the former Kaldi’s barista who is bringing aeropress brews and pour-overs to brunch-goers at Half & Half. “I told him, ‘Make me better. Find a way in your schedule to come in. I’ve got things that I’m thinking about and I wanna talk about them. … I wanna make this shop better.’” Another way he’s convincing customers to make the drive down Jefferson to South City: by offering something they won’t find anywhere else in town. Instead of playing into the desires of the city’s dedicated locavores, he’s putting local roasters like Mississippi Mud and Goshen up against those across the country – Seattle’s Kuma Coffee; San Fran’s Sightglass; Johnson Brothers in Madison, Wisc.; PT’s in Topeka, Kan. He’s looking for a roaster who treats coffee with the same respect and care that he does – one that gets out of the way of the bean and lets its varietals speak for themselves. Carey is well aware that all of this could end with the addition of two very expensive espresso machines to his basement collection. But that’s not quite the point. “I thought very emotionally about this project. I didn’t come up with a business plan. I didn’t analyze the demographics of the area or anything like that. It was a way for me to withdraw from the world and be alone and work on this building. … I did what I set out to do. It may be a market failure. This location may suck. St. Louis might not get it, or they may get it three years from now and I run out of money. But I did it. To feel that power to shape your world, that way of creating your own path in life, it feels pretty awesome, actually.” March 2012
March 2012
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by Byron Kerman
food
HOLIDAY St. Patrick’s Day at McGurk’s March 17 – all day, John D. McGurk’s Irish Pub and Garden 314.776.8309 · mcgurks.com Everyone is Irish on St. Patrick’s Day, but John D. McGurk’s bartender John “Lucky” McAteer really is Irish (he hails from County Donegal). The musicians who perform at the Irish pub are often from the Emerald Isle, and on this St. Patty’s Day, we hear, the indoor and outdoor stages will feature three bands, including Dublin’s four-man band, Ladlane. The venerable Soulard watering hole does a brisk business at all six of its individual bar tops on what might be the most vice-centric holiday of them all. McGurk’s St. Pat’s menu features fish ’n chips, corned beef and cabbage, and Reuben sandwiches, with brews like Guinness and Smithwick’s on draft. We’re fond of the infamous Half and Halfs, like the Black and Tan (half ale, half Guinness), the Blacksmith (Smithwick’s and Guinness), the Snakebite (hard cider and Harp’s), the Black Velveteen (hard cider and Guinness) and the Black and Blue (Blue Moon and Guinness). Consider asking for bartender Kate Hayes; she has jokes and smiles for all the lads and lassies.
SPECIAL EVENT FestivAle March 3 – 6 to 9 p.m., Factory STL · 314.733.1241 gateway.cff.org Like so many other events of its ilk, the FestivAle trafficks in vice to reward the virtuous. The fourth annual local-beer sampling bash to benefit the Cystic Fibrosis Foundation, FestivAle treats guests with pours from 4 Hands Brewing, Augusta Brewing, Charleville Vineyard, Crown Valley, Ferguson Brewing, Granite City Food & Brewery, Kirkwood Station Brewing, O’Fallon Brewery, Perennial Artisan Ales, Schlafly and Urban Chestnut Brewing Co. Appetizers are provided by The Dubliner, and a silent auction and beer raffle keep the party moving. For those who want more, a VIP reception includes a beer class taught by Florian Kuplent, brewmaster at Urban Chestnut Brewing Co.
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The Crack Heard Around the World March 10 – 2 p.m., Whole Foods – Town & Country and Galleria · 636.527.1160 and 314.968.7744 wholefoodsmarket.com There’s both an art and a science to cracking open a huge, 80-pound wheel of Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese. They don’t cut the cheese (snicker); not really. Instead, cheese mongers use a group of small, specialized knives to cut along the circumference of the wheel. They finish by cracking it in half and opening it up to reveal aesthetically appealing crags and bluffs on the half-wheels’ exposed faces. Watch it live when Whole Foods hosts the Crack Heard Around the World, an attempt to break the Guinness World Record for the most Parmigiano-Reggiano wheels ever cracked at the same time. The market, along with all other Whole Foods locations across the country, will host the demo and offer samples of and pairing ideas for one of Italy’s most popular exports.
Hermann Wurstfest March 24 and 25 – various times, Stone Hill Winery Pavilion and Hermannhof Festhalle Hofgarten, Hermann, Mo. · 800.932.8687 · visithermann.com It’s a sausage-fest! Literally! The 33rd annual Hermann Wurstfest turns this quaint Missouri burg into a curedpork paradise. You’ll find sausage for sampling and purchase, live German music and dance, sausage-making demos, sales of bratwurst-and-kraut sandwiches, a whole-hog sausage breakfast, a wiener-dog derby, and something called Braunschweiger Ball. Beer and wine will flow, and you can check out related winery tours, as well as the shops, galleries and restaurants of Hermann. If you like schnitzel, accordions, beer and cranking it out by hand, this is your weekend.
Off-White Wedding Show March 25 – 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., Third Degree Glass Factory offwhiteweddingshow.com Think about the best weddings you’ve attended. What do they all have in common? Cool people, an open bar and
five questions for Trish Erwin The 3 a.m. close time at Sandrina’s has made it a go-to spot for members of the restaurant industry after a long night in the kitchen. Co-owner Trish Erwin has more than a few juicy stories about the den of iniquity’s crazy days. What was it like when you bought Sandrina’s? The place was nasty. We overhauled the whole thing. The son of the previous owner lived in one of the apartments upstairs, which is now the game room. Everything was covered in duct tape. He had even fashioned himself a cup holder for his beer, attached to the toilet, out of duct tape. This place had a wild history? This place used to be known as The Cave. It was really dark and really filthy. The customers were all cops and politicos, and they’d stay here ‘till 5 or 6 in the morning. During Prohibition, it was a “pharmacy,” where you could still get bourbon. There are a lot of secret exits and entrances walled up in the basement. What sorts of insanity have gone down? The day before we opened, someone ran his car into the building and took the front door out. They were handing me the occupancy permit when I got a call that the building had been smashed in. We kept the side view mirror – it’s in the upstairs office.
There’s a pretty wild history there, too. This building has been here since 1853, and there are ghosts. We’d be doing construction on it, and something would be moved and you couldn’t find it. I went to St. Ambrose and asked the priest to come and bless the building. The only room he didn’t hit with holy water was the game room. He said it would be OK. That very night, the fan in the game room fell and took out a table with customers at it. The luau party you do must be fun. Yeah, we have a party here each year with a pig roast. One year, one of the guys went in the dunk tank wearing a woman’s one-piece swimsuit and you could see everything. My devout Catholic 87-year-old grandmother said, “Well, I guess it’s not anything that I haven’t seen before.” – Byron Kerman
SANDRINA’S 5098 Arsenal St., St. Louis, 314.601.3456, sandrinasstl.com
March 2012
Photo by jonathan gayman
stuff to do:
For part 2 of this interview, visit the Extra Sauce section of SauceMagazine.com.
s t u ff to d o: fo o d
Best seat in the house
catering prowess, while other booths will represent the cream of local dressmakers, hairstylists, designers, event planners, florists, musicians, assistants, invitationprinters, photographers, videographers, etc., who are willing to get a mite weird for the lady who prefers originality. To coin a phrase, it’s a nice day for an offwhite wedding.
CONTEST Don Q Rums Mix-Off Competition March 4 – 2 to 5 p.m., Blood & Sand · Facebook: USBG St. Louis Chapter The biggest competition for local members of the U.S. Bartenders’ Guild, the Don Q Rums USBG St. Louis Mix-Off comes to the swanky environs of Blood & Sand early this month. The area’s most acclaimed bartenders have been hard at work crafting new libations for the contest, and the public will get to try them all. The drinks will involve various permutations of Puerto Rican rums in the Don Q family of liquors, so expect some sweet and easy sippin’. The winner of the throw down goes on to represent The Lou at the Manhattan Cocktail Classic competition in New York. The $25 admission fee, which includes appetizers and drinks, benefits Stray Rescue and the St. Louis USBG.
Jewish Light Cook-Off April 1 – 3 p.m., Adult Day Care Center at the Jewish Community Center’s Arts and Education Building 314.743.3669 · stljewishlight.com
Blondie’s Coffee and Wine Bar 1301 Washington Ave., St. Louis, 314.241.6100, blondiesstl.com
Photo by jonathan gayman
The raised banquette near the door, a high-top with a clear view of Washington Avenue or perhaps one of those cushy chairs way in back. Every seat is great at Blondie’s, but if we had to choose just one place to park our buns, we’d grab the couch in front of the fireplace, toss our hair back and unabashedly go to town on a butterscotch-and-toffee blond brownie and dessert martini – or two.
a slice of luscious wedding cake that arrives at your table between Kool & the Gang’s Cherish and Al Green’s Let’s Stay Together – right? Today’s bride-to-be who embraces a fun, kooky, dare-we-say “indie” aesthetic might enjoy the lineup of vendors with tables at the annual OffMarch 2012
White Wedding Show. The third annual expo offers tables by Entre Underground, Hollyberry Catering, Local Harvest, The Cakery, The Cup, Frostbite Gourmet Ice Cream and Kakao Chocolate. These local culinarians will dish out samples of their fare to convince you of their
Behold, a mighty slab of beef: the Jewish brisket, soaked in its own juices and pampered by the tender ministrations of a strong Jewish woman. The Jewish Light Cook-Off features a different specialty every year, and this year’s third annual contest honors that worshipful hunk of protein, the brisket. Balabustas (accomplished homemakers) and others will gather at the Jewish Community Center with briskets both kosher and treyf for the judging. Criteria include originality, creativity and degree of difficulty, and the winners will see their recipes published in the Jewish Light. The final tasting for the judges and the public is technically in April, but March 16 is the deadline for submitting your recipe, so we’re giving you fair warning. So go cook already, who’s stopping you? saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 51
stuff to do:
art by Byron Kerman
The Reflections of the Buddha Concert Series, an intimate chamber music concert conducted by St. Louis Symphony Orchestra, is a chance to enjoy the final days of the Reflections of the Buddha exhibition, featuring religious sculptures from around the globe.
The Walking Dead
Sundays – 8 p.m., Moolah Theatre · 314.446.6806 stlouiscinemas.com Is the zombie trend dead? (Or is it undead?) It matters not. AMC’s The Walking Dead is just good TV, whether you’re a horror junkie or you don’t know a walker (zombie) from a rocker (Pat Benatar, e.g.). See what we mean at the weekly Walking Dead viewing parties at the Moolah Theatre’s sweet Mini Moolah giant-screen TV at the west end of the lobby. Grab a beverage from the lobby bar and then stake your claim on one of the Mini Moolah’s cushy, comfy sofas or chairs. Settle in, and watch the good people run from (and occasionally get bitten by) the bad people. It’s addictive television, and before you know it, one Sunday can turn into a weekly
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commitment. The gathering is as free as the still-warm flesh of a young victim in the time of the zombie apocalypse.
The Angel Levine
March 13 – 7 p.m., Saul Brodsky Jewish Community Library 314.442.3720 · brodskylibrary.org Zero Mostel had a face full of life. His rubbery, roguish mug and wild eyes made films and plays like The Producers, A Funny Thing Happened on the Way to the Forum and Fiddler on the Roof affairs to remember. One of Mostel’s mostly forgotten movies, 1970s The Angel Levine, casted the jumbo character actor as a tailor who meets with an incredible, Job-like run of rotten luck. Lo and behold, God sends an angel to give him a lift. The angel, played by Harry “Banana Boat” Belafonte, must convince the tailor that their racial differences matter not. The story is by Bernard Malamud,
author of venerated baseball novel The Natural. The venue for this one is the Jewish Federation Kopolow Building at 12 Millstone Campus Drive. Call for reservations.
The Third Man
March 27 – 7 p.m., Tivoli Theatre · 314.935.4523 kemperartmuseum.wustl.edu British artist John Stezaker, whose freaky altered photos and postcards are currently on view at Wash U.’s Kemper Museum, has selected a group of films to be screened to complement his work. The Fringe Figure Film Series includes a showing of the 1949 noir classic The Third Man at the Tivoli. The chance to see this one on the big screen is tempting, with all the shots of shadowy, nighttime Vienna; fantastic direction by Carol Reed; great character actors like Orson Welles and the cruel-faced March 2012
©iStockphoto.com/Miroslaw Oslizlo
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Ernst Deutsch; a script by the celebrated Graham Greene; and a nutty score performed on a zither. The plot concerns a certain Harry Lime, an enthusiastic black marketeer who sends for his friend with the promise of a job in postwar Vienna, then promptly dies, leaving said friend (Joseph Cotton) to puzzle things out in an increasingly paranoid predicament. As part of the series, the Tivoli will also screen Alfred Hitchcock’s disturbing Psycho (March 28), and JeanLuc Godard’s odd French New Wave meta-film, Pierrot le Fou (March 29).
THEATER Edgar Allan Poe’s Nevermore, presented by Webster University Conservatory of Theatre Arts March 23 to 25 – various times, Stage Three, Webster Hall, Webster University · 314.968.7128 · webster.edu/calendar You wanna talk vice? Let’s talk Edgar Allan Poe. The man married his 13-yearold cousin – when he was 27. He drank like a fish. He dropped out of college and was kicked out of West Point. Of course, despite his manifold failings, he managed to squeeze out a collection of morbid poems and stories that continues to make him an inspiration to people everywhere who wear too much mascara. Isn’t it time that Poe’s life and work were made into … a musical? Well, if we’re not mistaken, that “tapping at my chamber door” must be Edgar Allan Poe’s Nevermore, a mélange of Poe prose and poetry set to gloomy music and performed by the students of the Webster University Conservatory of Theatre Arts. With a book by Grace Barnes and music by Matt Conner, this macabre morsel will either make you clutch your copy of Twilight even tighter to your heaving bosom, or make you swoon with unintentional laughter. Bring your cousin!
MUSIC Barry Manilow
Photo by david kovaluk
March 1 and 2 – 7:30 p.m., The Fabulous Fox Theatre · 314.534.1111 fabulousfox.com Vice, sin and secret shame, thy true name is Barry Manilow! The guilty-as-charged Tin Pan Alley recidivist makes a triumphant return to The Fox Theatre this month. Here are some things to know about Barry, past and present. His latest, 15 Minutes, is March 2012
his first studio album in 10 years. It’s the story of a musician who achieves sudden fame and proceeds to develop a drug and groupie habit and alienate his loved ones. It sounds a lot like journalism. No, really. For the last seven years, Barry has headlined at a Vegas hotel. The Las Vegas Hilton actually printed up room key cards with Barry’s face on them. These keys not only unlock doors, they can unlock the mysteries of the human heart. No, really. Finally, Barry got his start writing ad jingles, and he’s responsible for earworms for State Farm Insurance (“Like a good neighbor, State Farm is there.”) and BandAid (“I am stuck on Band-Aid brand, ‘cause Band-Aid’s stuck on me!”). But of course, you knew all this if you’re a true Barry fan – also known as a “Fanilow.” See you at the Mani-show. Make a night of it with our suggestions for where to eat and drink before and after the show, at right.
before & after Barry Manilow
Reflections of the Buddha Concert Series March 7 – 7:30 p.m., Pulitzer Foundation for the Arts 314.754.1850 · pulitzerarts.org Wanna impress a visiting out-of-towner who’s also a culture vulture? Check out an intimate chamber music concert conducted by St. Louis Symphony Orchestra music director David Robertson at the Pulitzer Foundation for the Arts. The latest in a series of concerts within the sublimely minimalist design of the Pulitzer, this month’s performance features a group of SLSO musicians, under Robertson’s direction, cranking out some sublimely minimalist music. The highlight of the program will surely be Morton Feldman’s Rothko Chapel, a 30-minute piece written to accompany the exhibit of abstract paintings by Mark Rothko at the Menil Collection in Houston. Feldman’s piece features long, unbroken choral hums (by a group of no less than 29 singers) that have a meditative effect, along with viola, timpani and vibraphone. While you’re at the Pulitzer, enjoy one of the final days of the Reflections of the Buddha exhibition, featuring religious sculptures from around the globe. Any self-respecting New York Times reader who hears the names David Robertson, Mark Rothko, Morton Feldman, Emily Pulitzer (Pulitzer Foundation architect), Tadao Ando and Buddha in the same breath would wait in a hailstorm for this one. Call to purchase tickets while they last.
Before:
Despite its name, Desserts on the Boulevard dishes up more than just sweet treats. Perfect for pre-show nibbling, this new joint offers small plates called “tastes,” which include savory samplers like tuna sashimi with wasabi aioli, soy-ginger reduction and a hint of masago (pictured). Wash it all down with a Cosmic Cosmo, made from cranberry moonshine. 3949 Lindell Blvd., St. Louis, 314.533.3377
After:
As a nice follow-up to the smooth crooning of Mr. Manilow, keep the mood going with a nightcap. A short walk from The Fox, Vito’s is a nice way to wind down Friday’s performance. If you’re a bit peckish and can slip in the door before 11 p.m., order the Baby Arancini: delicious, delicately fried risotto-and-mozzarella balls that arrive surrounded by a lavish pool of Bolognese that will leave you wishing for a second order. 3515 Lindell Blvd., St. Louis, 314.534.8486, vitosstl.info
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A devilishly delicious twist on everyone’s go-to potluck dish, Five Bistro’s deep-fried deviled egg re-imagines this age-old classic. The filling carries a creamy kick thanks to creme fraiche that’s been hit with whole grain mustard, freshly grated horseradish, Sriracha and a pinch of smoked paprika. Call it fine dining when it’s served perched atop a bed of microgreens with a spoon of tangy mustard-balsamic aioli and a smidgen of lemon-caper vinaigrette. Or just keep it simple, bite into these little deep-fried devils and call ’em what they are – sinfully good. – Ligaya Figueras
Courtesy of Five Bistro’s Anthony Devoti 12 SERVINGS
10 eggs, divided Extra virgin olive oil for sauteeing ¼ cup onion, very finely diced 3 Tbsp. celery, very finely diced Pinch smoked paprika 1 large white anchovy, pureed 2 Tbsp. creme fraiche 1 Tbsp. aioli (garlic mayonnaise) ½ tsp. to 1 tsp. whole grain mustard (depending on taste) ½ tsp. to 1 tsp. freshly grated horseradish (depending on taste) Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste Sriracha to taste 3 cups flour, sifted 3 cups bread crumbs, seasoned to taste with salt, pepper and 3 Tbsp. dry herbs of your choice If using farm-fresh eggs, adding ¼ cup of kosher or sea salt to the water will make the eggs easier to peel.
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• Place 6 eggs into a pot filled with cold water. Bring the water to a boil. As soon as it reaches a boil, turn off the heat. Leave the eggs in the water for 14 minutes. • Remove the eggs and plunge them into a bowl of ice water. Gently peel the skins, halve the eggs, reserve the yolks in a bowl and place the white halves on a plate. • Heat enough olive oil to coat a saute pan over low heat,
then gently sweat the onion and celery, until translucent. Add the paprika and anchovy, cooking gently until their aromas are released. • Pass the cooked egg yolks through a fine mesh sieve into a bowl. In the same bowl, add the onion mixture, creme fraiche, aioli, mustard and horseradish. Season to taste with kosher salt, pepper and Sriracha. Mix. • Spoon the egg filling into the whites of each egg and top off with any remaining filling. • Beat the remaining 4 eggs and set aside. • Dredge each deviled egg in sifted flour, then in the beaten egg mixture, then in the seasoned bread crumbs, patting off any excess at each step to help keep the breading light. • Preheat the oil in a deep-fryer to 375 degrees. Deep-fry the eggs, until browned. Remove with a slotted spoon and place on a paper towel to drain. • To serve, place the eggs atop a bed of salad greens dressed in a vinaigrette.
Photo by carmen troesser
Fried Deviled Eggs
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March 2012