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AUTUMN/WINTER 2016 S A A T C H I
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ISSUE 1 S C O O P - I N T E R N A T I O N A L . C O M
SCOOP
SCOOP LONDON
31 January - 2 February 2016
21 - 23 February 2016
scoopARTS
Scoop Arts | 02
31 JAN UARY - 2 F EBR UA RY 2016
A glimpse of what visitors can expect this season, from the art on display at the Saatchi Gallery, during Scoop & Scoop London. A I D A N S A L A K H O VA : R E V E L AT I O N S
C H A M PA G N E L I F E
Taking over one entire floor during Scoop, Azeri and Russian artist Aidan Salakhova will showcase works in a variety of media, representing the veiled female figure and celebrating female hegemony and self-sufficiency.
For the first time ever, and to mark their 30th birthday, the Saatchi Gallery will showcase works of diverse contemporary artists in an all-female exhibition.
The exhibition featuring recent work will reflect on the artist’s academy training in Soviet Moscow, her exposure to western art and personal investigations into her Azerbaijani and Uzbekistani heritage.
Over the last three decades, Charles Saatchi has collected the work of emerging and established artists including Jenny Saville, Paula Rego, Tracey Emin, Alice Anderson and Phoebe Unwin. Champagne Life will be a celebration of the rich and diverse practices of female artists.
First Word | 03
FIRST W ORD Welcome to the brand new edition of our Scoop magazine, where we bring you the latest news, designers and highlights from our upcoming shows. With only weeks to go, we’ve been working hard behind the scenes to present to you another exciting, innovative and exclusive line-up of labels and new names. Designers such as Humanoid, Three Dots, Quiet Clothing, Kristensen du Nord, Ille de Coco and many more will be making their Scoop debut at the show this season, and I can promise you that their collections tick all the right boxes in terms of design, creativity and originality and therefore deliver an unmissable mix of products. Following in the footsteps of its successful launch last season, we are looking ahead at the second edition of our sister show Scoop London, taking place during London Fashion Week from 21 – 23 February 2016. The show complements Scoop perfectly, with a handpicked selection of fresh new talent, directional designers and international labels, many of which are exclusive to Scoop London and cannot be seen at any other show. Scoop London runs concurrently with London Fashion Week and has been devised specifically to present exquisite international labels that traditionally launch their new lines later in the season, as well create a platform for new and emerging designers for whom London Fashion Week remains the most important dateline. It therefore offers a completely different line-up of exhibitors to Scoop and one you can’t afford to miss. Look out for brands such as US designer Erin Fetherstone, Cacharel and Maison Baluchon from Paris, as well as exciting collections from Feldt and Libertine-Libertine, Terry de Havilland and Karl Donoghue.
Cover Image: Kreisicouture
Both shows take place at the beautiful Saatchi Gallery in the heart of Chelsea and are embedded into the unique backdrop of spectacular art works, which creates the amazing setting and environment Scoop and Scoop London are renowned for. With all that said, I am really looking forward to welcoming you at both shows! Until then, I wish you a very successful buying season.
Founder & Managing Director Scoop International Fashion Shows
Campaign | 04
31 JANUARY - 2 FEBRUARY 2016
Campaign | 05
S A A T C H I G A L L E R Y, L O N D O N
Inside Scoop | 06
insideSCOOP NAJA MUNTHE Owner & Creative Director, Munthe ___ Q. What is your background?
I am a trained designer. I come from an artistic family. I have always taken a great interest in textile, design, drawing and prints. Q. What is the signature of your brand?
My style fuses together the artistic and the casual with a tight graphical approach to design. Q. What inspires the collection?
For AW16, I have been inspired by graphic African prints. My signature cut is always feminine, but this time we have incorporated a more masculine aesthetic. Q. What made you decide to exhibit at Scoop?
At Scoop we are able to reach a broad distribution with our product. Scoop is always beautifully put together and the attention to detail at the show is similar to that of our collections. Q. What has been your biggest milestone for the label?
There have been many great moments with Munthe including Cameron Diaz appearing on the Jay Leno show in our clothes. The many awards we have won over the years is also a highlight. Q. What can buyers at Scoop expect from the range?
The buyers can expect to find a brand that can deliver a product that has both design, quality and price in mind. We don`t compromise and we have a philosophy of keeping our end consumer as the focus. Q. What is your favourite piece from the collection?
It’s hard, it’s like having to choose between your children! But I am extremely pleased with the gentleman’s inspired waistcoat which features beautiful embroidery.
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Inside Scoop | 07
3 1 JA NU A RY - 2 F E B RU A RY 2 0 1 6
ILSE JACOBSEN Designer & Founder, Ilse Jacobsen ___
What is the inspiration behind your collection?
The latest Autumn/Winter collection is inspired by nature. Nordic nature is a major inspiration¬al source in my lifestyle, daily life and work and has always been the backbone for Ilse Jacobsen Hornbæk. The collection is sensual with a new contemporary twist. Nature is replicated in fabrics, colours and with emphasis on surfaces, structures and surprising textures, creating a cool, elegant yet relaxed collection. Loose silhouettes with cutlines enhancing the feminine look is vital this season. The mix of refined silhouettes and cool leather, lace and glitter details complement the minimalistic styling and makes the collection laid-back yet distinct. What is your favorite piece this season?
I always adore the long maxi dresses however this season I am also in love with all the heavy structured knitwear. The matching skirt and top with leather details is another favourite as it allows you to go from office wear to party wear in no time.
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What can we expect to see from you in the future?
I always try to keep myself on my toes and my greatest passion is creating. I get a new idea every day and due to this my business has evolved as it has – now being an international lifestyle company encompassing clothing and footwear collections as well as flower shops, a spa and a line of spa & beauty products. Being an entrepreneur I have the honour of being part of the Danish version of Dragons Den. I have invested in several businesses including a young rainwear designer with whom I have started a new brand ILSE JACOBSEN HORNBÆK by EMMA JORN.
_ Designers a. Munthe b. Ilse Jacobsen c. Harris Wilson
How did it all start?
It all began to take shape after having worked for another shoe brand for a few years. During these years I had a lot of ideas which I started to believe in, so rather than selling other brands I wanted to sell my own designs. I bought a shop in Hornbæk and launched my own shoe collection with only 10 styles! Today my collections sell in 23 countries worldwide. I also have three flower shops, a spa situated in Hornbæk and more recently an award winning spa & beauty range.
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Scoop Focus | 08
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Scoop Focus | 09
N U ARY - 2 F EB RU A RY 2016
Reinventing classic outerwear for the modern lifestyle, Parka London will be returning to Scoop this season. Visitors will also discover the upcoming collection from Italian label, Transit Par Such, who use a mixture of top raw material, soft colour and timeless designs to ensure each piece in their collection is versatile for all occasions.
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Luxurious knitwear label Duffy will be showcasing their collection of sophisticated cashmere and merino wool pieces whilst Humanoid will be making their Scoop debut this season, offering fine cashmere, unstable cotton, suede and leather making their collection a true wardrobe staple. Finally, Irish design Rose Rankin will be inspiring buyers with her sports-luxe sneakers. Rose Rankin’s latest collection combines retro with the new, to produce fun, bold pieces with clean lines that are both luxurious and every-day.
_ Designers a. Parka London b. Transit c. Duffy d. Rose & Rankin e. Humanoid
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Scoop Spy Accessories | 10
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_ Designers a. SVP Jewellery b. Candice Cooper c. Cluse Watches d. Angela Caputi Giuggiù e. Kreisicouture
scoopSPY Ethical fashion brand, SVP Jewellery will be making a welcomed return to Scoop this season. Featuring coloured gem stones designed to symbolise positive change. Infused with contemporary cool, Candice Cooper’s latest collection offers beautifully handcrafted footwear, made from premium leather and suede and features statement prints with a modern twist. Showing at Scoop for the very first time is Dutch watch brand, Cluse. Committed to creating timepieces that represent elegance and minimalism, each watch is designed for people conscious about their style. Angela Caputi Giuggiù’s worldwide recognition has rose thanks to her gem-encrusted, opulent and confident jewellery collection that is considered both fashion and art. Krisztina Reisini founded Kreisicouture to put the spotlight on hats and headwear. Drawing inspiration from Pop Art and contemporary culture, the brand brings together refined elegance with fun finishing touches and playful designs.
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Scoop Spy Accessories | 11
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| Campaign | 12
21-23 FEBRUARY 2016
Campaign | 13
S A A T C H I G A L L E R Y, L O N D O N
AT S C O O P L O N D O N 21 - 23 FEBRUARY 2016
Talking Point | 15
T A L K I N G P O I N T M I N G R AY Founder, Ming Ray Showing at Scoop London
Q. What is your background?
Q. What has been the biggest milestone for the label?
I am a Chinese-born, London-based designer who trained at Alexander McQueen and Jimmy Choo. I grew up listening to my grandmother’s story of how she was born in a time in China when women still had their feet bound in order to please men, and this made an incredible impact on me. It made me determined to offer both beauty and comfort with my designs.
Having the absolute best luxury manufacturers and dedicated product manager in Italy on board with me. It is such an honour to have the most prestigious artisans believe in my designs.
Q. What inspires the collection?
Buyers will see a label that offers an authentic fusion of sophistication and playfulness in unparalleled quality.
My passion for haute couture and Japanese pop culture of Kawaii, fuelled by my experiences at Alexander McQueen and Jimmy Choo.
Q. What can buyers at Scoop London expect from the range?
Q. How would you sum up the signature of your brand?
“Haute Cute” or “Sophisticated Playfulness” Q. This is your first time exhibiting at Scoop London. What made you decide to launch your collection at the show?
Q. What is your favourite piece from the collection?
Scoop London is a place where emerging designers get discovered and unique designs get appreciated.
The flats. I cannot walk in heels that are too high so I never design anything I can’t walk in.
Scoop London Focus | 16
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Scoop London Focus | 17
FOCUS
21 - 23 F EB RUARY 2016
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_ Designers a. Libertine-Libertine b. Feldt c. Garment Project d. Gudrun & Gudrun e. Hide Label f. Hillary MacMillan g. Rains
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Note Book | 18
noteBOOK NATALIE LACROIX SENIOR BUYER AT LVMH GROUP, CHOOSES TWO OF HER FAVOURITE DESIGNERS TO LOOK OUT FOR AT SCOOP LONDON
Following in her father’s footsteps and choosing a career in fashion, Senior Buyer, Natalie Lacroix is one of the industry’s most respected jewellery experts, having worked for the LVMH group for over 20 years. When asked what sets our shows apart from other exhibitions, Natalie replied “Scoop and Scoop London are such chic shows. They combine fashion with art and have a great team behind it. The Saatchi Gallery location is extraordinary and completely different to anything else. The show’s atmosphere and brand selection makes it feel much more like an event rather than a traditional trade fair”. Ahead of Autumn/Winter 2016, we caught up with Natalie to find out who she was looking forward to seeing at our London Fashion Week show, Scoop London.
21 - 23 F EBR UA RY 2016
Note Book | 19
Nach Bijoux Nach Bijoux’s origin is linked to their family’s history specialising in porcelain animal miniatures for almost 30 years. Christian Koch passed his passion on to his two daughters, Nancy and Nadia Koch. “Authentic eccentric porcelain rings created by talented sisters” Nach Bijoux Nach Bijoux WWW.NACHBIJOUX.COM
Maison Baluchon Maison Baluchon finds its inspiration in the heart of the Haute-Marne and Paris. “I have an unconditional love for their print inspired by wildlife and nature. Such lovely clutch bags and suitcases manufactured in France”. Maison Baluchon WWW.MAISONBALUCHON.FR
Scoop London Loves | 20
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_ Designers a. Ming Ray b. Dahlia Razzook c. MOS London d. Cacharel
Scoop London Loves | 21
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21 - 23 F EB RUARY 2016
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AT S C O O P L O N D O N 21 - 23 FEBRUARY 2016
Talking Point Cacharel | 23
TA L K I N G P O I N T C A C H A R E L Showing at Scoop London
“Their Autumn/ Winter 2016, takes root in a simple femininity inspired by a 90’s woman”
Cacharel was founded in 1958 by French fashion designer Jean Bousquet, a tailor who started a hand-crafted business of woman’s pants in Paris.
Today, Cacharel remains an iconic brand. Their Autumn/Winter 2016, takes root in a simple femininity inspired by a 90’s woman.
In 1963 Cacharel made their worldwide debut when they featured on the front cover of Elle Magazine with their famous pink crepe shirt, now famously known as “Le Cacharel”.
The collection also takes inspiration from the 70’s, with hints of Sarah Moon’s signature soft, ethereal style.
In the 1970’s, the brands rising recognition continued, when founder Jean Bousquet rediscovered the Liberty print and assigned Corinne Sarrut the task of transforming it into a style and world renowned photographer Sarah Moon the mission of making it into a brand image – the visual identity of Cacharel ever since.
Contemporary and featuring contrasting fabrics, Cacharel’s upcoming collection includes the use of unique fabrics such as hair textures, fur, leather and velvets. Prints incorporate bold flowers, scribbled collages and abstract patterns in an autumnal palette, inspired once more by Sarah Moon’s work for Cacharel back in the day.
TWO SCOOPS PER SEASON SCOOP
31 JANUARY - 2 FEBRUARY 2016
SCOOP LONDON 21-23 FEBRUARY 2016
S A A T C H I G A L L E R Y, L O N D O N