Scoop on Scoop: SS15 (issue 2)

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A PROFILE OF THE NEW DESIGNERS AT SCOOP THIS JULY

SCOOP ON SCOOP: THE RISING STARS OF PORTUGUESE FASHION

BEST OF S/S 15: A PICK OF THE MUST-HAVE LABELS THIS SEASON

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BE PART OF SCOOP THIS JULY EUROPE’S MOST EXCITING FASHION TRADE SHOW Hello, Welcome to our second Scoop newspaper, which highlights some of our favourite exhibitors and not-to-be missed exclusive events.

With only weeks to go, we’re excitedly running through last-minute preparations for the spring/summer 15 edition.

We have just signed up key emerging labels from Portugal and the US, adding to our increasingly international scope.

Held once again in the Saatchi Gallery and Phillips, Scoop’s July edition will be bigger, better and more curated than ever with more than 400 emerging and established contemporary womenswear, accessory, footwear and lifestyle labels expertly handpicked by our team of industry insiders.

Make sure to get to Scoop early to give yourself plenty of time to visit the Saatchi Gallery and Phillips. Please remember to take advantage of the Scoop courtesy cars and taxis available at all times between both venues.

Don’t miss collections from new faces at Scoop including; Samantha Sung, Cynthia Vincent, Paul & Joe, Nue 19.04 and Duffy sitting alongside Plein Sud, Twin-Set, Goat, Essentiel, Edward Achour, Rosso35, Maison Olivia and many more...

Finally, please come and join us to celebrate Bastille Day on Monday 14 July, and later in the day we are holding the Scoop cocktail party at Phillips from 6.30pm - 8.30pm.

RSVP to raquel.monroy@scoop-international.com

C O V E R I M A G E : B R YA N H U Y N H | A G E N C Y: M B K L O N D O N

I look forward to seeing you at the show.

Founder, Scoop International

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FINLAY & CO.

C O V E R I M A G E : B R YA N H U Y N H | A G E N C Y: M B K L O N D O N

NEW FACES AT SCOOP

NUE 19.04

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Q &A Vicky Haddon Creative Director, H Shoes ___ Q. How would you describe H Shoes?

A. H Shoes is a range of eclectic footwear balancing practicality with inventive shapes and eye-catching finishes.

NI C BE AU MO NT OR GA

Q. What led you to launch the label?

A. We launched the women’s range in 2008 as we felt the techniques and classic styles from the men’s range would be covetable once we added a feminine twist.

The range has since gone from strength to strength with a wide selection of contemporary and on-trend styles.

Q. Why is Scoop such an important show for you?

A. We are really excited about showing at Scoop for the first time, as we are always trying to reach a wider audience. We feel the brand mix at Scoop sits perfectly alongside our range and we are extremely excited to show our collection to some of the most influential buyers from the UK and overseas.

Q. What are your key pieces for s/s 15?

A. Building on the success of our current sandal collection, we have an expanded range of sandals and summer styles. We have also introduced lots of metallic and printed fabrics on our trainers and espadrilles. Of course, there are also great boots and loafers on offer, which the H range is most known for.

PYRUS

Q. What are the key trends for summer?

H SHOES

A. There was a definite surge of interest in metallic last season and this is set to remain for s/s 15.

Sandalised shoes, 90s block heels and strong silhouettes are also set to be key trends, while sport shoes with luxury materials will be popular. ___

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Elizabeth Cawthray Founder, Needle Knitwear ___ Q. How would you describe Needle Knitwear?

A. Fun classic knitwear with a contemporary edge.

Q. What led you to launch the label?

MA ISO N OL IVI A

A. I’ve always wanted my own business just not necessarily in fashion, but I loved my job with LK Bennett and I get a real kick out of developing beautiful clothes. It is an amazing feeling to start with a sketch and with each step of the development process see it come alive. When I decided to set up Needle Knitwear it felt like the right time; I knew there was a gap in the market for fun but wearable knitwear made from good quality yarns which is what I wanted to create.

Q. Why is Scoop such an important show for you?

A. Scoop was always the show I wanted to be at because it is full of contemporary modern brands which I feel we sit very well next to. It was also the show that a current stockist recommended to me. Scoop gives young start up brands like Needle Knitwear great exposure to a wide range of potential customers in a market that is incredibly tough to break into.

Q. What are your key pieces for s/s 15?

A. Our key piece this s/s 15 is our colour blocked cashmere, Beatrix. As always we love playing with colour options and colour-blocking but this is a very fresh and beautiful piece, perfect for summer.

Q. Which are your favourite retailers?

A. I am thrilled to be in Wolf and Badger which is a recent addition to our stockist list. The dream would be Trilogy, Donna Ida and Anna Boutique. My market is very much London/Southern based consumers and these stores would be a major breakthrough for us. ___

ESSENTIEL

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Q &A Cyril Paillot Designer & Artistic Director, NUE 19.04 ___ Q. What was your background before starting the label?

A. I spent a part of my youth in Cholet, one of the most important places for textile in France. I believe this instilled my interest in fashion from an early age.

From my earliest childhood, I was fascinated by fabrics and materials. At 25 I joined Jean Bourget and then IKKS where I held the post of designer and art director for womenswear before starting my own label.

ANGELA CAPUTI

Q. How would you describe your collection and who does it appeal to?

A. I would describe the collection as Glam and Rock.

The Glam aspect includes sensual materials like silk, soft cotton, lambskin and mesh with detail such as sequins and embroidery. For Rock, the collection is more rough with leathers, cracked skins and a darker colourway with details such as chains and studs.

Q. What can we expect from your s/s 15 collection?

A. Perforated leather jackets, dresses and tops with a mix of silk and lace, and stand out designs such as bold prints are all key in the collection.

An inside Scoop with Angela Caputi, founder of Angela Caputi Giuggiù Q. What inspired you to become a jewellery designer?

Back when I started designing jewellery in 1975, fashions in Florence were following more conservative trends of that time. I turned to American films for inspiration and followed the emerging styles. I was inspired by the gangster films of that era, where women wore beautiful examples of costume jewellery.

Q. What would you say is your signature style and what type of woman would wear Angela Caputi Giuggiù?

Q. Each piece in your collection is so unique. What is your secret for creating such distinctive designs?

The materials I use play an important part in my creations. I mainly use plastic and synthetics as this allows me to use an unlimited combination of colours. I am very proud to carry the ‘Made in Italy’ label so of course all my materials are from Italian suppliers and I still make my jewellery in Florence.

Q. Where do you get your inspiration from?

Q. What inspires you?

A. I am always inspired by the different fabrics and textiles. The right materials really make the product and for me, it’s about the sensuality and the final look the materials can give to my designs.

Q. What are the key trends for summer?

A. Faithful to our brand DNA our key designs are timeless. Black and white take a dominant position in the colour range, while some touches of colour come through in the collection to update it for s/s 15. ___

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I would say that my collections are distinctive – it is all in the detail, the colour, the design. The type of woman that I design for is definitely independent and cultured. She is strong and isn’t afraid to be bold and show her personality through her sense of style. Men also buy the jewellery for the women in their lives. Men appreciate the materials I use and find the jewellery designs very interesting.

They fall in love with the pieces almost immediately and give Angela Caputi Giuggiù as gifts. It is a personal and intimate line because the pieces are one of a kind.

I am inspired by so much. Even just everyday life; from people walking down the street, the culture and excitement of Italy. I am full of ideas and I am always thinking what my customer would like to wear and what would make them happy and feel special. Jewellery really makes an ensemble so I make sure that my designs are creating an impact. ___

Q. What does Giuggiù mean?

When I was a young child, people called me Giuggiù.

It is an Italian term of endearment that means ‘small agreeable thing’. It is used for something that is playful and cute, just like my jewellery.

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Q &A Kirsten Goss Founder, Kirsten Goss ___ Q. How would you describe the label?

A. Fearless and light hearted, just as I feel.

Q. What led you to launch your own collection?

A. I have a degree in fine art and jewellery design.

I was working at Erickson Beamon in London and felt with my experience and knowledge it was time to go on my own. I’ve never looked back.

Paloma Perez FASHION CONSULTANT

Q. Why is Scoop such an important show for you?

Fashion Consultant Paloma Perez represents some of the most exciting and directional international labels. With a focus mainly on Spanish brands, she is set to bring an array of exciting new names to Scoop this July.

Q. How did you get into the fashion industry?

As most amazing things in life, it was not planned.

I was always interested in fashion. I started to model at 16, mainly photo shoots and TV ads. Eventually I started to work for premium showrooms and became more interested in the industry itself, in particular the world of distribution. I was lucky to work with Sir Paul Smith, possibly the most inspirational man I have come across in the fashion industry. The timing was perfect - Paul was launching womenswear, and I modelled from his Milan, London and Paris showrooms. Very quickly, I was part of the international sales team. It was an incredible opportunity, that probably only a character as quintessentially British as Paul Smith, would have offered to a young, Spanish “Girl”. I worked with Paul for 6 years having the pleasure of heading the ladies’ sales team. This was a fantastic role and the experience and knowledge gained led me to start my own distribution company.

Q. What type of brands do you represent?

I am working with Acosta, a premium accessories Spanish brand. Their handbags and small leather goods are 100% made in Spain. It’s a real heritage brand, established in 1942, producing made to order pieces for the aristocracy in Madrid. My other Spanish client is footwear label Paloma Barcelo, made by possibly the most creative shoemaker in the country.

Q. Can you tell me a bit more about your day-to-day role as a fashion consultant?

A. Having lived and worked in London for over 12 years, I did not consider giving it up when the family moved to Madrid. Spain is such a wonderful place

to raise a family, however, I enjoy very much the dynamics and working ethics of the British. Bi-monthly commuting to London is having the best of both worlds. When I am back in the UK I have one-to-one meetings with the brands I represent. We work on product, pricing, line structure, marketing etc.

Q. How do you know which labels are right for certain retailers?

Listening to our buyers, they truly are the pulse of the industry, having to work under such pressure not only to catch the right trends but also to make sure the product performs on the floor. It’s a very tough job and I have immense respect for them.

Q. How do you ensure there is no conflict of interest between the brands you represent?

The key is to keep the offer diversified. Less is more.

I also don’t just represent one category, I work across footwear, handbags and ready-to-wear so this ensures that the customer can choose varied product.

A. Scoop represents fresh, contemporary quality fashion which attracts a specific type of buyer. There is no other show like it. You have a stunning setting and backdrop and it’s an essential three days to meet like-minded people within the industry who appreciate quality designs.

Q. What are your key pieces for s/s 15?

A. For s/s 15, we’ll be showing sultry sexy vibrant tribal style earrings. These are going to be complex yet edgy, with maximum colour and textural impact.

Q. What are the key trends for summer?

A. Firstly tribal boho. We are moving into a far more rambunctious ménage of colour, form and texture. This range is punchy and brightly coloured, perfect for a Coachella festival look. Secondly, we will continue to embrace sports luxe, with our clean and simple MOD collection. Sleek, understated bibs, cuffs and earrings with a slightly androgynous sporty vibe will also feature.

Q. Which are your favourite retailers?

A. We have been running four of our own label independent stores for ten years now. We are only just entering into the trade space in the UK again so we’ll be looking to department stores such as Liberty, Harvey Nichols and Fortnum and Mason.

Q. Why is it Scoop an important show for you?

Scoop has many strengths; the timing is ideal, early in the season. It gives both brands and buyers the opportunity to organise budgets through early viewing. Another strength is the fact that it is a boutique show. Everybody gets seen and gets to see it all. It is the intimate environment that provides the good service. I see 90% of my buyers there. ___

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SCOOP ON SCOOP: The rising stars of Portuguese fashion

CARLA PONTES

TERESA ABRUNHOSA

After a degree in product design and a year in the Erasmus exchange programme at the Politecnico di Milano, Carla Pontes continued her studies at the prestigious Portuguese fashion school CitexModatex. Characterised by contemporary simplicity, the designer’s collection is a mix of urban and simple styles. Flattering cuts, a neutral colour palette and a high level of detail run throughout the entire collection.

With a background in fine arts and fashion, up-and-coming designer Teresa Abrunhosa creates effortless, elegant designs. The label cultivates a sense of sensuality and femininity, the paramount concepts in its aesthetic. The latest collection comprises bold colours and prints with a strong influence from vintage movies and their mischievous female characters.

DANIELA BARROS

JOÃO MELO COSTA

Daniela Barros graduated in fashion design at Oporto Fashion School in 2008. The young designer is known for her avant-garde and experimental designs. The latest collection includes structured pieces, where the handcrafted designs are balanced by technological materials. Pops of colour and geometric prints can be seen throughout the collection.

João Melo Costa was born in Portugal in 1990 and studied fine art and fashion design at the University of Porto. The young designer presents a collection that is both feminine yet androgynous.

Structured and tailored designs on neutral shades encompass João Melo Costa’s latest collection.

VENUES & TIMES:

Saatchi Gallery, King’s Road, London SW3 4RY | Phillips, Howick Place, London SW1P 1BB Sunday 13 July 10am - 6pm | Monday 14 July 9am - 6pm | Tuesday 15 July 9am - 5pm