May 2014 | Section a
A8
Inside this section: a8 | trends
B1 | animals
Women in Agriculture: resources, profiles and statistics
Hope Hills Farm & Petting Zoo is a “zoo on wheels”
A14 | bees
B12 | eat local
Tony Gaudin and his Brown County honeybees
Joseph Decuis and Indy’s Cerulean embrace local producers
A3 A4 A5 A6 A7 A12 B4 B6 B8 B10 B14
Gardening Basics National Beef Month May Events Census of Agriculture Kokomo Grain Redbud Farm & Caprini Creamery Fire Safety Indy Food Council Garden Tower Project Grant Options Fountain Square
ABOVE: Choco Taco, a 5-day-old kid at Hope Hills Farm & Petting Zoo in Madison. RIGHT, TOP: Anna Welch. RIGHT, BOTTOM: Cerulean.
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Farm Indiana // may 2014
>> Editor’s Note
A Cause to Celebrate A t 21 years old, I smoked cigarettes, played bass guitar in a New York City-based band and ate most of my meals out … usually at Wendy’s, Subway or the neighborhood pizza spot. Though most of my NYC friends considered me a country girl because I was born and bred a Hoosier (I was once teased that my dessert of choice was a Rice Krispies treat), I didn’t hail from a farming family. Instead, I grew up in Indianapolis and moved to the Big Apple the day after I graduated from college. I had never learned to cook by the time I arrived there. I’d opted to take shop class in high school rather than home economics. I also didn’t eat many vegetables, other than your standard iceberg lettuce or broccoli. But I did have a dream. On bright Saturday mornings in New York City, I regularly passed the greenmarket held in Manhattan’s Union Square. There I saw swarms of consumers crowded around booths selling nature’s beautiful bounty. Tables beamed with purples, yellows, reds, oranges and greens. And I, in my 20-something way, would reassure myself as I walked by: “Someday, when you grow up, Sherri, you’ll shop at markets like these.” I not only fancied that I would shop at homegrown markets, but that I would also one day know what to do with those precious vegetables when I got them into the kitchen.
Fast-forward 20-some years. In the time since I returned to the Hoosier state, eating healthily has become somewhat of an obsession for me. Daily, I scour the Internet for the latest news on farming, gardening, cooking and homesteading, and when I find some delicious morsel of information, I devour it. Mostly — unfortunately for my husband — I learn by trial and error in the kitchen. With each plate I present at dinner time, I secretly delight in the minor miracle that has taken place: I cooked. And I didn’t burn the house down. The climate surrounding our food system has changed dramatically, too, over the years. Local farmers markets are not just in New York City anymore. These days, they are everywhere … in small towns, in big cities and along every dusty road in between. High-end restaurants feature locally raised and grown foods on their seasonal menus, and dozens of consumer-supported agriculture programs are operating throughout the state. With each passing year, more food is being sold at small roadside stands with a personal check and a handshake than ever before. Food — local, fresh food — is no longer ignored. These days, it’s celebrated. Feeding ourselves well is not simply a matter of good health. Instead, it’s an avenue for creating and building community, of supporting our neighbors, of forming new relationships and making new friends. If you take a few minutes to look over the recently passed Farm Bill, you’ll realize that eating well has become political, too. The voting booth is the local farmers market and the neighborhood specialty store. We cast our ballots with our dollars, our cents and our forks. And politicians are taking notice. With this issue of Farm Indiana, we embark on a new format and a renewed focus and vision. We intend not only to celebrate the rich history and tradition of farming in Indiana, but we hope to do much more: to serve as a conduit of information among growers, producers, farmers, retailers, farming organizations and local food consumers; to educate readers about the nutritional, social and financial importance of local food support and consumption; and to highlight Indiana agritourism along the way. And I have a renewed focus, too. Now, at 41 years old (and counting), I take vitamins and drink tea; I prefer the quiet of the country to crowded streets, loud bands and dimly lit bars; and the only thing smoking around me is the pasture-raised chicken, when I’ve accidentally burnt our evening’s dinner in my favorite cast-iron skillet. It’s cause — burnt chicken and all — to celebrate.
A Home News Enterprises Publication A monthly publication of Home News Enterprises, Farm Indiana offers the local news and views of Indiana’s farming world, including features about local families and their farms, agriculture businesses, equipment and technological advances, educational outreach programs and more. Farm Indiana promotes and celebrates Indiana’s rich history and tradition in farming; serves as a conduit of information among growers, producers, farmers, retailers, farming organizations and local food consumers; educates readers about the nutritional, social and financial importance of local food support and consumption; and highlights Indiana local foods and agritourism.
PUBLISHER | Chuck Wells EDITOR | Sherri Lynn Dugger CONTRIBUTING WRITERS Cissy Bowman, Cheryl Carter Jones, Shawndra Miller, Barney Quick, Dylan Ratzsch, Jon Shoulders, Clint Smith, Ryan Trares, Jeff Tryon COPY EDITOR | Katharine Smith SENIOR GRAPHIC ARTIST | Amanda Waltz ADVERTISING DESIGN Emma Ault, Hollie Brown, Dondra Brown, Tonya Cassidy, Julie Daiker, Ben Hill, Phillip Manning, Josh Meyer, Desiree Poteete, Tina Ray, Kelsey Ruddell, Robert Wilson
PHOTOGRAPHER | Josh Marshall
©2014 by Home News Enterprises. All rights reserved. Reproduction of stories, photographs and advertisements without permission is prohibited.
Comments, story ideas, events and suggestions should be sent to Sherri Lynn Dugger, The Republic, 333 Second St., Columbus, IN 47201, call (812) 379-5608 or email farmindiana@hnenewspapers.com. For advertising information, call (812) 379-5690. To subscribe to Farm Indiana, call (800) 435-5601. 12 issues (1 year) will be delivered to your home for $24. Back issues may also be requested for $5 per issue.
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Farm Indiana // may 2014
A3
Plant a few seeds, figure out the basics and watch your garden flourish By cheryl carter jones The birds are chirping, the grass is green and we are finally getting rain instead of snow. Spring is really here, and with it — at least for me, this year — comes the arrival of 5,000 strawberries and 100 berry bushes. My UPS driver tells me I’m his job security during planting season … what with all the boxed bushes, fruit trees, nut trees and tools he regularly delivers to my door. For those of us who use our lands to grow our livelihoods, spring is always a busy season. But it takes only a little time and effort to plant a small garden to add fresh food and nutrition to your family’s diet. Gardening doesn’t require a large area or a lot of know-how. Here, I’m including a few tips to get your garden growing.
Starting Small First things first: You want to size your garden to your available time, locale, experience and needs. For the novice gardener or apartment dweller, try growing lettuce, kale, Swiss chard, collard greens and spinach in f lower pots, but go easy on the number of seeds you plant in one pot. (Yes, read those directions on the package!) If you have a large flowerpot, try potting a tomato plant. You will end up with wonderfully delicious plants and fresh homegrown food to add to your diet. For those of you with inquisitive children, think about using a Sprout & Grow Window planter, which can be purchased online. I still find it intriguing to watch a carrot or radish grow. For a child, the opportunity to watch the underground growth of a root vegetable is both fascinating and educational, and the more children experience gardening, the more likely they are to eat their vegetables. If you are overzealous your first year, you can easily become overwhelmed and lose interest in your gardening project. There is a lot to learn
as you grow food, so take it easy and savor the rewards of your labor. Get good at growing a few things first. Then build upon your skills and your garden options. Heading Outside If you have more space and time, consider turning a corner of your yard into a productive garden. If nutrition is a goal, think about planting vegetables of all colors. Traditionally, we associate green vegetables with high nutritional value, and by all means green is great, but go beyond that. A wide array of color on your plate is a good defense for your immune system. Look to tomatoes, carrots, sweet potatoes, peppers, squash and green beans as you plant your rainbow of vegetables. However, don’t forget cauliflower, cabbage and garlic. All have tremendous food value, despite their lack of vibrant colors. As well as being excellent sources of fiber, cabbage and cauliflower are rich in vitamins such as C and K. Consider the amount of sun your location will get. Is there too much sun? Too little? For most vegetables, you want to pick a spot that will get at least eight hours of full sun a day.
Seed packets usually offer the details on how much sun your seeds need. Equally important is the accessibility of water for those blistering hot and dry periods. You want to locate your garden in a convenient place, close to a garden hose or rain barrel. It also helps to position your garden somewhere close to your home. Make it easy to run out and grab some lettuce for a quick salad; even better if you can easily see weeds from a window inside your home to know when it’s time to get out there and do some work. Spotting Pests and Weeds Think about pests. If you are planting cabbage, cauliflower or broccoli, cutworms are a potential issue. Protect new plants by wrapping waxed paper, cardboard or something similar around the base of the plant. Once the plant grows, the threat of cutworms diminishes. Also, do not underestimate the damage those adorable bunnies and raccoons can cause. I could devote an entire column to the value and success of using cardboard to combat weeds and attract wonderful
earthworms, which serve as power composters and help to enrich and condition the soil. Make sure you remove any tape from the cardboard before placing on the ground between plants to cover the areas where weeds will most likely grow. Place the cardboard (use two layers if you have enough) at least two to four inches away from each side of your plants. You’ll still need to weed up close. After you lay your cardboard down, soak it and then weight it down with bricks, stones or garden staples. Pay particular attention to the edges, as they have a tendency to curl as they dry out. Keep the cardboard moist throughout your growing season. You will be amazed by the difference in your soil after just one year of using cardboard between rows or plants. The best part is that cardboard composts naturally — just till it under the following year and start anew. Finally, if you use other mulches, read carefully and ask questions. One of the wonderful benefits of a home garden is the nutrition you are adding to your family’s diet. Make sure harmful chemicals are not in the mulch that
you use, which can leach toxins into your food. If you are purchasing mulch from a landscaper, find out if chemicals or dyes were added to the mulch. Leaves make for wonderful, natural mulch, and they will compost, as will straw. Sawdust can be beneficial, as long as it doesn’t come from treated lumber. Gardening doesn’t have to be intimidating. What you don’t know you can easily and quickly research online, or stop by a local greenhouse or farmers market and ask an expert. Local growers are always willing to share their thoughts on what works, what doesn’t and where you can go to find more help. *FI
Cheryl Carter Jones is an Indiana farmer and president of the Local Growers’ Guild, a cooperative of farmers, retailers and community members dedicated to strengthening the local food economy in southern Indiana through education, direct support and market connections. For more information on the guild, visit www.localgrowers.org.
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Farm Indiana // may 2014
To Beef
Not To Beef
It’s National Beef Month, so we got to the meat of the matter compiled By Barney quick
I
ndiana enters this year’s National Beef Month with a beef cattle industry that is robust, yet facing significant challenges. Because the nature of the industry in Indiana differs from the way it operates elsewhere, many considerations must be addressed in particularly Hoosier ways. “Right now, we’re down in cattle numbers,” says Ronald P. Lemenager, a professor of animal sciences at Purdue University. “Seventy-two percent of the national herd in 2012 was affected by the drought, which was the worst since 1988.” The good news? Land in Indiana is flexible, unlike in many other states. “In Indiana, we have the opportunity to use land in many ways,” Lemenager explains. “In the high plains, from the Dakotas to Texas, there’s much less versatility for land use. Unless they have center-pivot irrigation, they don’t have enough water for corn and bean production.” Bartholomew County farmer and Southern Indiana Angus Association President John Finke notes that the land versatility that provides Indiana farmers with the option of growing corn means that “our way of life is completely different” from that of Western cattle farmers. “In the West, you see huge ranches, and you still see real cowboys,” Finke says. “The typical Indiana farmer has a small herd by comparison.” Small herds make it easier for Indiana farmers to swap out their land from pasture to row crop production and back again, should the market call for such shifts. “Hoosiers could make more money growing corn on marginal land,” Lemenager says. Though recent drops in corn prices could mean more farmers might see good reason to jump into beef production, Lemenager says there’s also a big financial draw for older farmers to get out of the business altogether right now, which could further lead to lower numbers in Hoosier beef production. “A feeder calf is worth $1,000 coming off weaning. A steer coming out of the feed lot is worth about $2,000. Pregnant cows go for around $2,500. If a guy was ever thinking about wanting to slow down, now would be the time,” he explains. Less production due to fewer producers could keep prices for beef relatively high. “Demand is still strong,” says Lemenager, “but my concern is that if we can’t bring prices down, consumers will look for alternatives.”
Angus Management
Feeling Simmental
Hereford Now
Wagyu Go
More Angus is produced in Indiana than all other breeds combined. Known for the tender and marbled beef it produces, Angus beef is more likely to meet qualifications for prime status than any other breeds.
The Simmental breed, which originated in Switzerland, had been seen in the United States in small numbers since the 1880s, but really saw a growth spike around the 1960s, says Brian DeFreese, Purdue University beef unit manager and a board member of the American Simmental Association. The swift spread of this versatile breed, DeFreese says, was in part thanks to many early Hoosier Simmental producers.
Indiana’s Hereford producers tend to keep their breeds pure. For one reason, they say, it makes for a better disposition in their animals. “They tend to be docile,” says Marjorie Knecht of White Plains Polled Hereford Farm in Brookville. Dale Leising of Connersville characterizes the Hereford as “more of a common-man breed rather than a show breed.” Their main selling point is feed efficiency, he explains, which appeals to those who want the cows to reach full weight quickly.
There are now approximately six Wagyu producers in the state, says Debbie Hanna, who started the Bloomington-based Triple H Wagyu Cattle Co. with her husband, Jeff, eight years ago. Wagyu beef has a higher percentage of monounsaturated fat. It’s a genetic quirk, she explains, that produces a “juicier steak.” *FI
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Farm Indiana // may 2014
hoosierland
A5
May Events
Looking for just the right amount of acreage to start a small farm?
May 2-4 Brown County Antique Association 26th Annual Engine and Tractor Show Location: Brown County 4-H Fairgrounds, Nashville Info: (812) 325-6722 May 3, 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. Morel Mushroom Fest Location: Brown County State Park Nature Center May 8-10 Jackson County Antique Machinery Show and Swap Meet Location: Jackson County Fairgrounds, Brownstown Information: (812) 523-3246
This five-acre property in Linden offers a four-bedroom, four-and-a-half bath home, plus a 1 ½-car garage, two barns and a grain bin. Built in 1991, the 2,872-square-foot home is for sale by owner and features 9-foot ceilings, a den, a great room, a storage room and more. One barn has two automatic sliding doors, a cement floor, an office and a water hydrant. The second barn is 36-by-40-feet, and the grain bin offers a capacity of approximately 7,600 bushels.
May 9-10 Vintage Garden Tractor Club of America Spring Expo Location: Brownstown Information: (812) 793-3798 or (812) 216-0839 May 10-11 Sip-n-Learn on the Indiana Wine Trail Location: Indiana Wine Trail Information: www.indianauplands.com/sip-and-learn
Want to Know More? Contact Martha Gaylor (765) 339-4730 or mgaylor67@gmail.com.
May 13-15 Conference for Disaster Volunteers Location: J.W. Marriott, 10 S. West St., Indianapolis Information: (765) 494-4390 Indiana Small Farm Conference
May 14-17 Tri-State Gas Engine and Tractor Association 32nd Annual Swap and Sell Location: Jay County Fairgrounds, Portland Information: (260) 726-4036
Did You Miss It? Didn’t make it to the Indiana Small Farm Conference this year? No worries. The good folks at Purdue University, who organize and host the popular annual conference, have uploaded each presentation that was delivered at the 2014 event in Danville. Visit ag.purdue.edu/ Extension/smallfarms/Pages/default.aspx to find information on all the conference’s offerings, and—while you’re there—be sure to bookmark the site for information on the upcoming 2015 event.
May 23-26 Steam Corner 34th Annual Antique Power Show Location: Highway 41 and State Road 32, 5 miles south, Veedersburg Information: (765) 798-5710 or (217) 474-7075
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Farm Indiana // may 2014
Changing Landscapes The latest Census of Agriculture provides a look at Indiana’s past, present and future story By Ryan trares
A
t first glance, it looks as if the past five years have been hard on Indiana agriculture. Farmland has been lost and isn’t being used for production. Fewer farms are still in operation. New farmers are not replacing older generations in raising crops or livestock or starting other agricultural operations. But at the same time, existing farms are larger, and the farmers who are still working the land are making more money than ever before on their crops. The release of the nationwide agricultural census, conducted every five years, portrays Indiana as a state becoming more efficient in its production. Even with the number of farms and the amount of farmland less than it was in 2007, Hoosier farmers averaged more than $50,000 in sales per farm. Though the full scope of the report will come out later this spring, the initial returns are encouraging, said Kyle Cline, spokesman for Indiana Farm Bureau. “Overall, incomes have been strong, and there have been a lot of investments as well as new farms purchased,” he said. “It does provide an overall industry and economic snapshot to try and find what some of those underlying factors are and what the future of agriculture is.” The agricultural census is released every five years by the U.S. Department of Agriculture. The report is an exhaustive look at farms and ranches in the U.S., measuring metrics such as size of the farms, race of farm owners and number of farmers who make agriculture their primary job. “It is a huge accumulation of farm data because they ask such a wide variety of questions,” said Sarah Hanson, educator for Purdue Extension of Johnson County. “There’s everything from how much a farm sells (produces) goes right to a consumer, how much they spent on gasoline, how much they spent on taxes.” The census has been conducted since 1840 and gives government leaders and the entire agricultural community a roadmap of what farms are doing, what programs or efforts need to be prioritized and where efficiencies can be made. Going back into the records can indicate how a state like Indiana is producing differently, Hanson said.
“This is changing the picture of agriculture,” she said. “Usually, it’s safe to say that the number of farms decreases and the average age of farmers increases. Sometimes there are some surprising things in there that reveals a lot about our food system.” Statisticians send in-depth surveys to each farmer on record, trying to ensure everyone from the largest producer to the smallest operation is counted, said Greg Matli, Indiana state statistician in charge of collecting the data. Close to 80,000 people received the surveys. Though not all replied, analysts still received nearly 60,000 responses. The information that is received is parsed, broken down and put into a database. Follow-up questions require phone calls to individual farmers, and the final collection process can take up to one year, Matli said. The report goes into great detail about the state of agriculture throughout the country, giving a picture of production costs for different types of farms, types of farm by county and production for crops versus livestock. “The ag census is the only survey of its kind that gathers information for every type of farm, from wheat producer to corn producer to aqua-
culture,” Matli said. “There is no other system that can give you that specific information.” Nationwide, crop sales of $212 billion exceeded livestock sales of $182 billion, only the second time in the history of the census that has happened. Values of farms increased from $134,807 to $187,093, while the amount of farmland dropped from 922 million acres to 915 million acres. Indiana’s individual results followed those national trends.
The change could have come from consolidation of other farms. Evidence of that stems from the increases made over the past few years of farms 10 to 49 acres, as well as farms that were 50 to 179 acres. The largest farms, 1,000 acres or more, also made gains. “Some of those farms may be moving up in categories, whether they expanded or declined,” Matli said. “It’s hard to say without looking at the very detailed data.” Indiana farmland also decreased by 53,000 acres. While urbanization has resulted in the loss of acreage in the past, this change may be attributed to better soil management, Cline said. Over the past five years, Indiana has made intense efforts to conserve and protect its land, encouraging farmers to have conservation plans in place to prevent topsoil erosion. Other areas have been set aside for wetland preservation, serving as filters to keep the rest of a farmer’s land clean.
Indiana products brought in $11 billion in 2012, compared to $8 billion five years prior. While farms producing less than $50,000 worth of goods dropped, farms producing more than that all increased. Indiana claimed more than 2,700 farms making $1 million or more in 2012. “It’s important because it really gives us a sense as to what is going on in the economy, in the industry itself. It gives us a snapshot of the overall trend,” Cline said. The demographics of farmers are also changing. Farm owners are getting older. The 2012 census revealed that 78 percent of farmers are age 45 or older. Only 8 percent of Indiana farmers were 34 or younger. Female farmers are maintaining a foothold in agriculture. Census results in 2012 indicate 10 percent of Hoosier farmers were women, less than in 2007. The initial census numbers offer a snapshot of what Indiana farms look
The agricultural census is released every five years by the U.S. Department of Agriculture. The report is an exhaustive look at farms and ranches in the U.S., measuring metrics such as size of the farms, race of farm owners and number of farmers who make agriculture their primary job. The preliminary report shows that the state lost about 2,200 farms since 2007. The hardest hit were the small farms, ranging in size from one to nine acres. Only 6,600 small farms were operating in 2012, compared to 9,700 five years earlier. But that isn’t the warning sign that it appears to be, Matli said.
“Indiana has really come out to be a leader in those programs for those protected acres. It’s not necessarily increased urbanization,” Cline said. The losses have not affected the economics of the farm, though. The market value of agricultural products has increased as crop and livestock prices increased since 2007.
like, providing a glimpse of what the agricultural community can expect when the full report is released in May. “These are things people probably knew to begin with, but this report shines the light on exactly what happened,” Matli said. “By having a benchmark every five years, you can see where things are moving.” *FI
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Farm Indiana // may 2014
A7
inthebusiness story By Barney quick photos by josh marshall
Fast Company
Time is of the essence in farming. Just ask Kokomo Grain Co.’s Phil Gorrell.
C
hat with Phil Gorrell, a manager at Kokomo Grain Co.’s Edinburgh facility, and he will quickly tell you that efficiency is a top priority for grain growers when it’s time to unload their corn, soybeans and wheat. Dealing with an efficient and fair elevator operator then, he explains, can be the decisive factor in where to go with your next load. “A lot of what we focus on is always improving the speed of unloading, so we can get people turned around and back to their operations,” says Gorrell. To fulfill the company’s quest for ever-improving efficiency, the Edinburgh location maintains three
dumps, allowing for the unloading of multiple products at the same time. Kokomo Grain offers two grain dryers, each of which can process 7,000 bushels per hour. The company also offers an asphalt pad for storing corn outside. The company’s customer base spans a considerable spectrum of farm sizes. “Some customers grow 10,000 acres of grain, and some grow 100 acres,” observes Gorrell. While customers are pulling in to have grain unloaded year-round, the Edinburgh site does most of its business between September and November each year, and the grain brought to the Edinburgh facility usually finds its way into corn sweetener and ethanol. Founded in 1950 by Raymond “Mick” Ortman, the company purchased the Edinburgh facility in 1980. Ortman “started with one 12,000-bushel grain bin,” Gorrell says. “He worked very hard and managed his resources,” which helped the business grow to nine locations throughout Indiana and Tennessee. Ortman is retired now, and his sons, Scot, Brad, Jeff and Zach, are seated in management positions. With 11 employees on staff, the Edinburgh location is the company’s only Indiana facility south of Indianapolis. The site’s capacity sits at just under 10 million bushels. “We take the position that if you’re not growing, you’re falling behind,” says Gorrell. To that end, the Edinburgh site has expanded its rail yard and added three new silos since 2007. Even with regular equipment upgrades and increases in capacity and efficiency, Gorrell feels that integrity is Kokomo Grain’s biggest selling point. “We’ve spent 64 years building a reputation,” he says. “We want to be sure that one careless or thoughtless act wouldn’t ruin that. It means everything to us to be a good corporate citizen.” *FI
>> For more information, visit www.kokomograin.com.
Today I discovered I am a .
chef
At Covered Bridge, Silver Oaks and Aspen Place, it’s never too late to try something new! We offer a variety of onsite resident activity programs tailored to our residents’ interests and abilities, ranging from cooking classes to painting workshops and more. Our programs and services are designed with one thing in mind: exceeding the expectations of our guests and their families. Call a campus near you for more information about their services.
Oreo Balls Recipe
Ingredients: 1 package Oreo Cookies 1 block cream cheese, softened
1 package chocolate almond bark or bakers chocolate baking squares
Directions: 1. Mix softened cream cheese into smashed cookies. 2. Form into balls and place on wax paper. 3. Melt chocolate according to package directions in microwave. 4. Cover balls in chocolate and let dry for 20 minutes.
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Farm Indiana // may 2014
story By shawndra miller photos by josh marshall
WOMEN in AGRICULTURE They care for their families, their animals, their plants and the land. Then, when those duties are done, their workday—generally off the farm—is ready to begin.
We discussed the challenges of women in agriculture, engineering, et cetera, that have in years past been male-dominated industries. As I reflect on issues and barriers, I think of the many times I wanted to quit. … It is important to note that regardless of the negative circumstances that we may be facing, there is always hope, always a divine purpose awaiting each of us if we can turn our focus away from self and focus on those around us, on what needs exist, then determine what gifts and resources we have to overcome the challenge or to serve someone. Nothing or no one can stop any one of us from fulfilling our purpose if we are on the right path.” —Anna Welch
Anna Welch
Despite what the statistics for Indiana might say, more women — at least anecdotally — are becoming involved in farming operations. In fact, Purdue Extension Educator Kelly Heckaman, who organizes the extension’s Midwest Women in Agriculture conference, sees several subsets of women attending the conferences, which draw annually from five states. Roughly half of the attendees work off the farm, perhaps balancing raising children with their outside jobs and farming duties. Most tend to be the bookkeepers as well, she says. Another subset includes those women who, instead of working off-farm, are actively involved as equal farming partners, helping to plant, harvest, care for livestock
and take on other hands-on tasks. These women generally share decision-making and planning responsibilities with their husbands, says Heckaman. An older demographic includes retired women who own property, though they may not be actively engaged in farming. Their land may be farmed through a cashrent scenario, shares or flexible leases, but they are still deeply invested in the agricultural realm. And a growing subset is made up of sole proprietors on smaller farms with niche markets. Looking back over the 13 years that the conference has been running, Heckaman says each of these groups was always represented to some degree. “Probably what’s changed the most are sole proprietors running small farms and women getting more involved in the day to day and making
Nationwide, the share of U.S. farms operated by women nearly tripled over the past three decades, according to the U.S. Department of Agriculture. The agency’s Census of Agriculture first tracked gender of farm operators in 1978, and in that year, women numbered 5 percent across the U.S. By 2007 that number was up to 14 percent. In Indiana, the number of women operators appears to be on a slight decline since 2007. The 2012 Census revealed that 5,745 Indiana farms are under female operatorship, versus 6,377 in 2007. However, the total acreage of farmland owned by Hoosier women in 2012 actually increased by more than 20,000 acres (541,991 in 2012, vs. 520,437 in 2007). The market value of agricultural products sold from these operations also showed a significant increase since 2007. According to Purdue Extension Educator Kelly Heckaman, organizer of the extension’s annual Midwest Women in Agriculture conference, additional census figures due out in May might shed light on that unexpected drop. “It’s kind of odd that the trend would be decreasing,” she says, pointing out that as women tend to outlive their husbands, more farmland is owned by women. “I don’t have an explanation yet for why they showed a decrease in number of operators,” she adds. But in May, the USDA will release the numbers of second and third operators, which might be how some female farmers are quantified — for example, daughters farming alongside their fathers and brothers. The second and third operators were not included in the preliminary USDA report.
Farm Indiana // may 2014
Resources for Women in Agriculture
Leading ladies
Kathy Robertson Ag Operation: Maranatha Farm
A list of helpful organizations, conferences and sites
of bad weather.
Location: Near Hopewell, Johnson County
and pygmy goats to sell, and also has eggs, strawberries and asparagus along with a vegetable garden for personal use.
Size: Twenty acres
How to Buy: eBay classifieds
Who Shares Farming Duties: Husband, Joe Robertson, fixes fences, and grown children, Rebekah, Charity and Jonah, help with animals
What She Does: Breeds and cares for the animals
Of note: Her animals are part of the petting zoo at Apple Works.
Type of Product: She raises Shetland sheep, rabbits
Biggest Challenge: Sometimes things get “wild,” like the Christmas she brought a newborn goat into the house during a stretch
Biggest Reward: Working with baby animals
Words of Wisdom: “I do think that women have a sixth sense about how animals are doing. Like you can look at a kid, you can look at their eyes and know they don’t feel good.”
Organizations and Programs Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education (SARE) is a source of grants and education for sustainable agriculture innovation. www.north centralsare.org Purdue University’s Agriculture and Natural Resources Extension Team offers educational resources and education around agriculture and related topics. www.extension.purdue.edu/anr Growing Forward, a program of Farm Credit Mid-America Association (covering Indiana, Ohio, Kentucky, Tennessee), engages, educates and assists young and beginning farmers. www.e-farmcredit.com
Leading ladies
USDA’s Farm Services Agency targets a portion of its loan funds to minorities and women farmers and ranchers. www.fsa.usda.gov
Ag Operation: Schooner Creek Farm
Hoosier Organic Marketing Education provides education concerning organic food and farming, and links farmers to funding. Email: CVOF@earthlink.net
Sarah Dye Location: Brown County
Local Growers Guild connects and supports small farmers and promotes local food. www.localgrowers.org
Size: Three-and-a-half acres Who Shares Farming Duties: Husband, Doug Dye
Conferences Purdue Extension’s Indiana Small Farm Conference supports small and alternative growing operations. ag.purdue.edu/extension/smallfarms
Type of Product: Heirloom and chemical-free produce and perennials Where to Buy: Bloomington Community Farmers Market
Purdue Extension’s Women in Agriculture team plans an annual conference and smaller regional meetings as well. ag.purdue.edu/extension/WIA
What She Does: Shares farm duties equally with husband and works the market
Websites Farmer Jane is a hub for women farmers. www.farmerjane.org
Biggest Challenge: Balancing motherhood and farming
Annie’s Project offers “Risk Management Education for Farm and Ranch Women.” www.extension.iastate.edu/annie
Biggest Reward: Connection to the land, raising her 4-year-old son in a healthy environment Of note: She plans to volunteer with Habitat for Humanity to develop her carpentry skills so that she can tackle projects like a goat shed with confidence.
Missouri Alternatives Center compiles information from extension agencies and other sources. agebb.missouri.edu/mac Agricultural Marketing Resource Center is a national clearinghouse for value-added agriculture, offering help with business planning and enterprise development. agmrc.org
Words of Wisdom: “I feel like there is a part of us (women) that has been kind of buried and oppressed for many, many generations, and I believe that by getting back into the soil and nurturing — as the natural nurturers that we are — (when we’re) nurturing the seeds and caring for crops, it’s kind of like delving into something ancient and beautiful that we’ve known forever.”
decisions with their husbands.” Sarah Jordan, a Farm Credit loan officer, says she’s also noticed the trend: “I’m seeing more women getting involved with their husbands.” While she hasn’t observed a large number of women applying for farm loans on their own, this scenario may become more likely with a recent new service being made available in Indiana, Tennessee, Kentucky and Ohio. “We have a new program called Growing Forward, which is geared toward younger beginning farmers, and women would definitely qualify as part of that program,” Jordan explains. The relaxed underwriting standards allow loan officers some flexibility in getting new farmers on their feet. (See sidebar on resources.) That’s good news from the perspec-
Center for Crop Diversification (University of Kentucky) offers printed and electronic resources on “new crops” and marketing channels. www.uky.edu/Ag/CCD/intro.html
tive of Purdue Extension Educator Roy Ballard, who is the state coordinator for Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education (SARE). He notes that women make up over half the vendors in the Hoosier Harvest Market, an online marketplace of locally grown and produced food. From the beekeeper to the cheesemaker to the beef producer, women growers are capitalizing on this opportunity to get their products to consumers. The ratio of women to men may be even more lopsided in an urban setting as community gardening takes hold. Kay Niedenthal, who has been an urban farmer in Indianapolis for a few decades, notes that lately she sees more women getting their hands dirty “in community gardens and those kinds of efforts.” Indeed, industrial agriculture seems dominated by men, while the growing
numbers of women seem to be concentrated in the small farm arena. Of the 5,745 farms that the Census of Agriculture lists as having women principal operators in Indiana, nearly two-thirds (65 percent) are farming fewer than 50 acres. Cissy Bowman, founder of Hoosier Organic Marketing Education (HOME), says she suspects that women are drawn to diversified produce growing, versus the monocropping typical of commercial operations. Through several decades as a small farmer and advocate for organic food, Bowman has attended countless agriculture conferences and gatherings, where she’s lately seen the ratio of men to women shift. “I don’t have any statistics to quote, but I can tell you that when I first started working in it (agriculture), I might (have been) the only woman at a con-
ference, and now there’s definitely a whole lot more of them.” A younger demographic is taking advantage of such opportunities, says Heckaman. Though the average age of Hoosier women proprietors is listed as 59.4 in the 2012 Census, this year’s Women in Agriculture conference and regional meeting trended younger. “We’re starting to see an influx of younger women involved,” Heckaman says. The average age of attendees was between 45 and 55. Bowman, who has been on the planning committee for the Indiana Small Farm Conference as well as the Indiana Horticulture Congress, says that as child care becomes increasingly available at such gatherings, more farmers who are mothers will be able to attend these annual events.
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Farm Indiana // may 2014
Leading ladies
Anna Chase
Leading ladies
Kim Beesley-Shatto Ag Operation: Shatto’s Poseys and Pumpkins Location: Near North Vernon, Jennings County Size: Seven acres of produce and mums, plus 13 greenhouses Who Shares Farming Duties: Husband, Ralph Shatto Type of Product: Mums, produce, cut flowers Where to Buy: Farmers markets, flower shops, garden centers What She Does: “Whatever’s needed,” but mainly she tends greenhouse plants Biggest Challenge: Long hours, except for January and February Biggest Reward: Being her own boss
Because they’re typically the primary nurturers in the family, women often have trouble getting away, and if they’re breast-feeding or home-schooling, the complications mount. For a model of a conference on the cutting edge in this regard, Bowman points to a child care program in place for years at MOSES Organic Farming Conference in Wisconsin. She hopes that quality child care becomes the norm at farm conferences, because “women automatically have a little more trouble, historically, getting to conferences when (they’re) the ones responsible for being the food source and everything else.”
“If each of us finds our passion and makes a commitment to find the path in how to complete our life’s journey, it will come to pass.” —Anna Welch Indeed, women who farm typically wear many more hats than their male counterparts. Many are involved in advocating for agriculture beyond the farm, Heckaman has found, along with serving in their roles as wife, mother, bookkeeper and employee outside the farm. Many also act as resident mediator. Heckaman describes it this way: “Probably the most unique and challenging thing — honestly, they’re the peacemaker in the family,” she says. “Especially if multiple generations are involved in a farming operation, mom is always viewed as the peacemaker. Mom is just always the conduit between dad and son or daughter.” Several other challenges face women farmers. Niedenthal lists “brute strength” and “mechanical skills” among hers. Identifying herself jokingly as “single, without someone to lift heavy things or fix the tractor or the tiller,” she says that sometimes she surprises herself. “I have discovered that I’m a lot stronger than I expected I would be … and I now have a much better set of tools and I know how to use them.” The learning curve may be steep, but even trickier is navigating the sometimes treacherous waters as a woman in a traditionally male field. “I always like to think that in the year 2014 we’ve gotten past the stereotype that women (can’t be) the sole owners, or sole decision makers, to be treated equally as men,” Heckaman says. “But I know some women still have challenges being accepted in that role.” Bowman concurs. “There are still those people out there that think a woman should be staying home with her children,” she explains. While most of the women interviewed denied facing a gender barrier, these outdated attitudes do persist in some pockets. Anna Welch of Fields of Agape has
Of note: Son, Ethan, 13, was diagnosed with leukemia in 2009. BeesleyShatto’s flexible work schedule allowed her to continue tending plantings while taking him for treatment at Riley Hospital. He is now in remission and doing well. Words of Wisdom: “I’ve worked for somebody else, and I’ve worked for myself. If I decide to sit down on a five-gallon bucket and think about what I want to do next, I can do that, because I know I’m not going to get paid if I don’t get up and do whatever I want to do.”
encountered this issue in her endeavors in Carthage, where she’s working with a team of people to establish a cooperative mill. “If a woman tries to give input on farming or engineering, it doesn’t go over well,” she says. Welch says she has learned to tone down her communication delivery to keep from shutting conversations down. “I do think it’s a woman thing. Sometimes we are perceived as controlling.” Heckaman expects to see less of that as more women take on jobs traditionally held by men. For example, the roles of seed consultant and agronomist are now increasingly held by women, as banking and lending roles have been for a few generations. “More women are involved in those agribusiness industries,” she says, “and that helps women (farmers) — some of those barriers are starting to come down. “In the time I’ve been in extension that has changed tremendously,” Heckaman says, looking back at her 19 years of service, “because when I first started … in agronomy and some of those other fields, you didn’t find women, and now
Ag Operation: Miss Mary’s Wellness and Community Garden, a project of Center of Wellness for Urban Women Location: Westside Indianapolis, Marion County Size: Ten vegetable and herb beds, including an elevated one for seniors Who Shares Farming Duties: Volunteers and community members Type of Product: Vegetables, herbs, fruit Where to Buy: The produce is given to community members and used in the nonprofit’s programming What She Does: Coordinates garden classes in a community space Biggest Challenge: Funding Biggest Reward: Helping to address public health problems in Indianapolis Of note: The garden is on a lot owned by a granddaughter of the late “Miss Mary,” a centenarian who lived there for years and owned her own restaurant on Indiana Avenue in the 1940s. Neighbors remember picking fruit from Miss Mary’s peach trees. Words of Wisdom: “My mother’s side of the family had seven women. And I have three uncles, and all three of them had muscular dystrophy. … So I can’t go whine to my aunts (about physical labor) because they look at me like I’m crazy. Many times at the garden, it’s just females; it’s just us lifting and moving and doing what we have to do. Sometimes you just have to, you know, toughen up.”
Ag Operation: Artesian Farm you’re starting to see them.” And things are much better than they were when Bowman started out, some three decades ago. “I can remember being on buses going to conferences, and (I’d) have somebody look at me and say, ‘What are you?’ I’d say I was a farmer, and they’d start laughing,” she recalls. The respect might have been slow in coming, but no one can deny the impact of women on agriculture now. And Bowman, who administers grants in her role with HOME, notes that as far as funding, there’s no gender barrier. “There are programs out there,” she explains. “Anything a man is eligible for by way of funding or education, a woman is eligible for, too.” In the financial scene that loan officers like Jordan oversee, the same holds true: “It’s definitely a level playing field with Farm Credit on the financing side,” Jordan says. “We look at each applicant as an individual, and we don’t see any barriers between the sexes there.” So what are the unique strengths that women bring to the agricultural table? Roy Ballard, in his experience coordinating SARE and facilitating the Hoosier Harvest Market, has found that networking is a particularly female skill. “I’m generalizing here so I’ll probably get in trouble,” he says, “but I think they tend to create social networks better and collaborate among themselves a little bit better sometimes.” He’s also seen flexibility in women farmers, who often bring innovation and creativity to their endeavors. “They do their homework,” he says. “They come at it with lot of enthusiasm, a lot of passion, and they seem to be very good at what they do. Not that the men aren’t, but I think the women are willing to reach out and embrace new concepts, new ideas and new products.” “In general, women see the world in a slightly different perspective because they have been the ones who have to nurture and have not had to think in that competitive level,” Bowman says. “(So) they may be more likely to find solutions with everybody working together, as opposed to ‘I need to win.’” The bottom line, adds Bowman: “They can do it!”
Location: Hancock County Size: 800 acres (100 acres of woodlot, 150 of pasture/hay, 550 of corn and soy, with 20 acres recently certified organic, and a plan to convert more acres to organic each year over next four years) Who Shares Farming Duties: The eighth-generation family farm is co-owned among eight siblings and cousins. A farm partner is the operator, and a cousin who lives on the farm oversees property maintenance. Type of Product: 100 percent grass-fed beef Where to Buy: Contact her at artesianfarm@att.net. What She Does: She and husband, Dan Chase, who live in Indianapolis and are both retired, regularly work on fencing and woods maintenance. She is in charge of bookkeeping and maintaining the organic transition plan and related paperwork, and she also serves as family facilitator, keeping all as involved as they wish to be, in immediate and long-term farm planning. Biggest Challenge: The complex work of preparing for the next generation, preserving what is precious and unique, while establishing sustainable systems on which they can build. Biggest Reward: Working toward sustainability on the land imbued with family history. Of note: Every May she continues to host the annual wildflower walk her mother started years ago, showcasing the diverse wildflower population in the woods. Words of Wisdom: “When I’m there I have a sense of past generations. I never feel like I’m alone there. … I’ve just had that feeling ever since I was a teenager. When I’m there the past is with me, and my relatives are, too. Some I’ve just heard about and never met, but I’ve heard a lot about them. It’s good to carry that on.”
Leading ladies
Rhonda Bayless “I wouldn’t say that I’m a farmer — more of an ally.”
Farm Indiana // may 2014
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Leading ladies
Anita Spencer Ag Operation: Homestead Growers and Local Folks Foods
What She Does: Bookkeeping, product demos, growing select crops Biggest Challenge: Balancing family life with farm demands
Location: Sheridan, Hamilton County Size: Two acres, plus hoop houses Who Shares Farming Duties: Husband, Steve Spencer, and brother-in-law, Jeff Spencer Type of Product: Chemical-free vegetables (Homestead Growers), Tomato sauces and stoneground mustard (Local Folks Foods)
Leading ladies
Lois Hatfield Ag Operation: Several joint operations, including Borton Cattle Co. Location: Northern, central and southern Rush County Size: Large commercial ag operations Who Shares Farming Duties: Her two brothers, sometimes nephews and her grown sons Type of Product: Grain What She Does: Everything her brothers do: Operate the tractor and field cultivator during planting season, and the tractor and grain cart during harvest season. “I don’t drive the semi, but I can in a pinch,” she says. Hatfield also does much of the bookkeeping.
Where to Buy: Green Bean Delivery, grocery stores throughout the Midwest
Biggest Reward: Knowing she’s growing healthy food for the customer Of note: The farmland has been in their family since 1838 Words of Wisdom: “You have to love farming to do it. You can’t go into it thinking you’ll make lot of money, because you don’t, and you can’t go into it thinking it’s easy work, because it’s not. You’ve got to love being outside. You just have to love what you’re doing.” *FI
Biggest Challenge: Explaining to non-farming friends what she does and why she has little down time, even in winter. Biggest Reward: Working with family Of note: She and her brothers are the 13th generation of farmers in their family. Words of Wisdom: “My boys were able to be with me in the tractor from a relatively young age. We’d do their spelling words as we were out in the field, and we’d do their multiplication tables.”
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Farm Indiana // may 2014
Kristy Kikly plays with her mix of Oberhasli and Nigerian Dwarf goats.
Raising goats and making cheese are all in a day’s work at Redbud Farm story By dylan ratzsch photos by josh marshall
leven years ago, Mike Hoopengardner, his wife, Kristy Kikly, and their daughter, Jessica, welcomed their first farm animals — two llamas and two goats — onto their five-acre patch of land in Fortville. Today, the family farm — now located in Spiceland — serves as home to approximately 150 goats, 20 llamas, a lone alpaca and an increasingly well-known family business, Caprini Creamery. The trio walks together toward the creamery, which sits at the heart of their nearly 60-acre operation, which they’ve named Redbud Farm. “We milked about 45 goats regularly last year,” Mike says, “and sold all of the cheese we could make. Next year that number may be closer to 60.” For the consumers of Caprini Creamery’s goat cheeses, this is good news, indeed. Pogue’s Run Grocer in Indianapolis is one of the retail locations that sells Caprini Creamery products, and the store has trouble keeping it on the shelves, says Nate Roberts, general manager. “Any time we can stock it, it sells well. The price is right, and it’s a very sellable product for us.” With its spotless floors, gleaming stainless steel and high-tech machinery, the creamery looks like a laboratory. “We pasteurize all of our cheese, as it’s the only way we feel sure we’re delivering a safe product,” Kristy explains. Kristy, the master cheesemaker at Caprini, is also a research scientist with Eli Lilly and Co. Mike, a stained-glass artist by trade, specializes in restoring windows in older buildings. His on-site workshop allows him to spend a greater amount of time on the farm, and while they share the daily farm chores, each has distinct roles when it comes to making the cheese.
“Kristy is the scientist,” Mike says with a grin. “I don’t go in the cheese-making room unless there’s heavy lifting to be done. I just do the milking.” At Caprini, Mike and Kristy are in their element. “People look at me cross-eyed when I say health inspections are fun,” Mike says, “but we have a great relationship with the Board of Health. Kristy designed the building and the laboratory, and they assisted us greatly in the process, so their visits are usually more idea sessions than lists of corrections. “If you have good procedures and clean facilities, it leads to better health for your animals and a safer product,” he adds. “We’re a perfect example of how the Board of Health can be more education than punishment, which I think is what was intended.” Mike makes the process sound simple, but the strict health and safety standards practiced here require constant attention to detail and dedication to both the animals and product. The steps for pasteurization are exacting, cleanliness and correct storage allow for no margin of error, antibiotic testing is required and records of everything must be kept and submitted to regulating agencies. Kristy makes chevre, a common soft goat cheese, as well as feta and tomme cheeses to sell through the creamery business. “I experiment with some other types as well, and I’ll be attending a master cheesemaker’s seminar in Vermont this year to learn more about working with some different cultures,” she says.
Commitment Issues
The pair discusses the responsibilities of running a working farm. “People ask me where I’m going when I go on vacation,” Kristy says, “I tell them: ‘The barn.’”
From the Lesson Book We asked Mike, Kristy and Jessica the real-time lessons they’ve learned by running Redbud Farm. Here are their top five: 1) Always close the gate. 2) Your education and planning will get you your dream. 3) You can’t keep every animal. 4) No day is ever the same. 5) It (running a farm) is a lot of work.
“It’s a real commitment, not just a neat thing to do when you’re not busy,” Mike adds. “It’s buying into a lifestyle. If we’re not at work, we’re both here. If we’re not both here, one is here and one is at one of the markets selling our product. We all feel it adds so much value to the product if the consumer is actually buying the cheese from the folks that milk the goats and make the cheese. That’s the difference between a family farm and the big guys.” “It’s sometimes difficult to explain to people who don’t do this what it’s like,” Kristy says. “You can’t really go places. You can’t just leave town for the weekend. These (the animals) still need to be fed,
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Farm Indiana // may 2014
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BELOW: Kikly hand milks a goat. RIGHT: Mike Hoopengardner with his wife, Kristy Kikly, and their daughter, Jessica. BOTTOM: Cheeses available at Caprini Creamery.
For more information on Redbud Farm/ Caprini Creamery, visit www.caprini creamery.com or www.redbud llamas.com.
milked, checked, moved and cared for every day.” The adult goats at Redbud are all female, some with new kids, some still expecting, and even some that are considered retired. “We have a retirement plan for good milkers,” Kristy says. “It just seems like we owed them some easy years after they worked for us.” Each animal has a name and is greeted or admonished as the situation demands. “You’ve got to watch yourself out here,” Kristy says, extracting her ponytail from the mouth of a goat poking its head over a pen rail. “They don’t really eat everything, but they use their mouths the way we use our hands, as a tactile sense.” “You’ve always got to watch them in the pasture,” Mike adds, “anything that blows into their enclosure can be fair game. Scrap paper, plastic bags,
$
you’ll find it all half eaten if you’re not attentive.” When asked why they keep llamas, Jessica, now 17, answers like a professional tour guide. “We actually use the llamas like guard dogs for the goats,” she explains, scratching Tommy Bahama the Llama under his chin. “They have a warning screech, and the goats have learned to run to wherever that sound isn’t. Sometimes they (the llamas) are wrong; we have one that screeched at a cow last week, but with the coyotes and other predators out here, they help keep the goats safe.” “We spend about a hundred dollars a month on feed for 20 llamas,” Mike interjects. “The loss of one good milking goat could set us back several thousand dollars over the long run. So, do the math.” “I also show them through 4-H,” adds Jessica, “and we shear them for fiber.” The solitary alpaca is on the farm “just because I fell in love,” Jessica explains. “They don’t really do much other than grow fiber.” Over the years, Jessica has learned many
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lessons, thanks to her family’s business. One of “the hardest things to learn for me as I got older and more involved was that you had to let some of the animals go,” she says. “You can’t keep them all.” “That’s one of the first and biggest steps that a lot of hobby farmers considering making the jump have a hard time with,” Mike adds, “going from half a dozen animals with which you have a close bond to 50 that you’re counting on as an asset that sometimes needs to be sold or processed is tough for some people. I’m proud of her for learning that so early on.” As the trio walks back to the main house, Mike discusses the future of the small farm. “That Jessica has the opportunity to think about taking over this farm if she chooses is one of the things that makes me so optimistic about farming in Indiana in the future,” he says. “I love that it isn’t just all huge soybean and corn operations going forward, that kids can look at getting 50 to 100 acres and operating a small niche farm. There’s room for everyone here.” *FI
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Farm Indiana // may 2014
Tony Gaudin with his wife, Suzanne, and their granddaughter, Claire.
Hive Talkin’
A Brown County beekeeper shares his passion with others story By Jeff tryon photos by josh marshall
T
ony Gaudin grew up a city boy, but his love of animals led to a career in biology and teaching. That career eventually led him to a 40-acre farm in northern Brown County where he gardens, raises chickens and tends a colony of honeybees. Gaudin is a professor of biology at Ivy Tech Community College in Columbus, where he also teaches anatomy and physiology. But his real passion is his farm and, in particular, the colony of beehives that he has been tending for 25 years. “Bees have a hoarding gene,” he says. “If a flower is blooming and nectar is available, they’ll keep on making honey no matter how much they have. As long as they have somewhere to store the excess, they’ll continue to do it.”
GETTING HELP While everyone is welcome to attend a meeting of the Ten O’clock Bee Line Beekeepers Club at 7 p.m. on the second Monday of the month at the Brown County Public Library, Anthony Gaudin points out that abundant information is just a click away. “Nowadays, we’ve got the Internet, so all you’ve got to do is go to the Internet and type in ‘beekeeping,’ or ‘beekeeping lessons,’” he says. “There’s all kinds of stuff. You can take a whole series of courses over the Internet.” Gaudin also suggests local classes, such as the Saturday classes held each spring by Graham’s Bee Works in nearby Morgantown. Visit www.grahams beeworks.com for more information.
A lilac bush blooms. ABOVE: Gaudin checks a frame inside one of his colonies.
So what Gaudin offers his bees: storage space. He adds extra boxes, called supers, on top of the boxes where the bees live. It’s in those supers that the bees continue to make honey. “That’s the honey that we harvest, and we leave the honey that’s in the bee boxes for the hive to overwinter (to eat during the winter),” he explains. Having lost one-and-a-half hives to this past winter’s harsh weather, Gaudin currently has six working hives. He says the best time to set up a hive is when the flowers start blooming. Once warm weather arrives, he will split some of his hives to make new broods of bees. Each brood has only one queen, so when splitting the hive, a keeper can buy a queen for the queenless hive, or in time, the bees will take care of it themselves by selecting and creating a new queen. “The queenless hive, if they have fresh eggs in there, they will detect that there’s no queen around, and they will take one of those eggs — it’s a fertilized egg — and they will put that in a special queen cell, heated specially, treated specially, and that larva, that pupa, will develop into a queen rather than a worker bee,” Gaudin explains. During the summer, a queen can lay as many as 1,200 eggs a day. “If she’s not laying enough, she’s not doing well for the hive,” he says. “They kick out her eggs, produce new queens, and when the new queens hatch out, one of the newer, stronger ones will kill the old one and take over the hive.” Gaudin and nearby neighbor Randy Partridge are founding members of the 10 O’clock Bee Line Beekeepers Club, which has members from Johnson, Morgan and Monroe counties, as well as Brown County. The group meets at 7 p.m. on the second Monday of each month at the Brown County Public Library in Nashville. “We get together and talk about bees and beekeeping with people who are interested in the importance of bees,” he says. “We welcome beekeepers throughout southern Indiana.” The group mentors anyone who wants to get started in beekeeping. “If they’re interested and they come (to a club meeting), they’ll get a chance to talk to people who are knowledgeable and maybe get advice, get questions answered. That’s how a lot of people get their start.” Gaudin got his start with bees 25 years ago, when his daughter was in fifth grade at Helmsburg Elementary School. One of his daughter’s teachers introduced him to beekeeping, a hobby he has practiced ever since. Now, Gaudin has come full circle, mentoring an elementary school group on the practice at St. Bartholomew Catholic School in Columbus. The bees use movement to regulate the temperature in the hive, even in the sub-zero weather Hoosiers experienced this year. “In the summer time, they’re going to keep that hive about 90 degrees, but in the winter, when it’s minus-10 outside, they retreat into a little nest with a little ball of bees, and they rotate in and out, and they buzz and flap their wings and shake their bodies to make heat,” Gaudin explains. “They keep it around 50 or 55 degrees through the winter.”
Farm Indiana // may 2014
A15
BEE ADVICE May and June are bee swarming season. If you have a swarm that you would like to have removed from your property, you can find a local swarm catcher at www.in.gov/dnr/entomolo /5755.htm.
SAVE THE QUEEN In June, Anthony Gaudin will attend a “bee lab” at Purdue University to learn how to raise queen bees on his own. The class, held in conjunction with the Indiana Beekeepers Association (indiana statebeekeepers.org), will help with the Indiana Queen Project, which has been developed to produce queen bees that are resistant to certain pests. The project aims to distribute about 2,000 queen bees or cells that are tolerant to certain mites to Indiana beekeepers, which will help prevent the spread of mite-infested bees. Gaudin grew up in New Orleans, and his family moved to Los Angeles when he was a child. He trained as a herpetologist, studying amphibians and reptiles, then taught biology at the University of California at Northridge for 25 years. He has been teaching at Ivy Tech in Columbus for 16 years. He and his wife, Suzanne, also raise chickens. They have about 20 adult hens and recently bought 30 new chicks. “We eat the eggs, and I sell some eggs, too,” he says. “Some people like the brown eggs. Also, we have the araucanas. They lay the green and the blue eggs.” North of the chicken yard sits an extensive garden from which the couple harvests food to freeze, can and dry. Further north, beyond the garden, are the beehives, which provide enough honey for the beekeepers
All Indiana beekeeping clubs and beekeepers are invited to participate in the Indiana Queen Project, which needs volunteers to help organize and track the project, as well as queen cell producers, queen producers, breeder queen producers and various other personnel. For more information, visit indianastatebee keepers.org/word press1/indianaqueen-project.
to eat, as well as sell. “I have regular customers that I can’t produce enough for all of them,” he says. “I could sell two or three times what I produce.” Gaudin says the amount of honey output in a year varies depending upon weather and other conditions. Two years ago, his hives produced about 360 pounds. Last year, only around 150 pounds. Bees feed on whatever nectar is available from local blooming plants, and being in Brown County, trees provide many types of nectar for Gaudin’s bees. “The characteristics of the honey are completely dependent upon the flowers that they get the nectar from,” he says. “So in early spring, when the locust trees are blooming with the great big white blossoms, that means they are going to produce a very light, high sugar content honey, almost the color of water.” Clover blossom honey has a slight yellowish tint. Most of Gaudin’s honey is made from nectar collected from large tulip poplar trees, which makes for a darker, more robust honey. “My honey is generally what they call ‘multi-flora,’ which means whatever flowers the bees happen to be visiting, that’s what they bring back to the hive.” *FI
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May 2014 | Section B
Hope Hills
The Miner family brings the petting zoo to you
W
The Miner Family: (from left) Jonathan, Roy, Meghan, Cherie, Violet, Ellie, Laura and Alexa. TOP: Ellie holds one of the family's pet chickens, a buff Polish.
story By marcia walker photos by josh marshall
ith approximately 12 goats, several varieties of chickens, an oversized rabbit or two, a guinea pig, several dogs and a threelegged turtle named Tripod, the Miner family’s zoo on wheels is still in the “build-up phase,” says Roy Miner. But it’s been a family project for Roy, his wife, Laura, and their six children (Cherie, 15; Meghan, 13; Ellie, 11; Violet, 9; Alexa, 4; and Jonathan, 18 months) for the past two years. The Miners are owners and operators of Hope Hills Farm & Petting Zoo, a traveling zoo that shares its home base with the Miner family on Olive Branch Road, just outside Madison. There are plans for more animals, with a miniature horse and miniature pig up for consideration on the “to be purchased” list. Laura would like to add reptiles, and Violet’s hope is to acquire a penguin; she says there is a variety that doesn’t require sub-arctic conditions. Cherie wants to add a goat and train the animal to pull a cart. The zoo, which Roy says the family delivers upon request to festivals, parties and church events, got its start because of Laura, who grew up in Montana and says she has always wanted to own a farm. Soon after she met Roy — while they were both in college at David Lipscomb University — she told him about her dream. Roy, who grew up in a small town in Virginia, considers himself more of a city boy, although he is adapting well to the farm life. “He’s warming up to the whole farming thing,” his wife says. “I think I’m the CFO (chief financial officer),” Roy says with a smile. When the family moved to Madison for Roy’s job — he’s a physician at King’s Daughters Hospital — they first looked to purchase a farm, but were unable to locate one. They settled into a ranch home in a subdivision but didn’t give up the idea of one day owning a farm; the Miners’ real estate agent kept looking. Eventually, 60 acres became available just down the road from their home. It’s an easy walk, a trip made even easier using a four-wheeler, and the Miner family’s plans include building a home on the property. Approximately 40 of those 60 acres are wooded; much of the remainder
// See hope on b2
B2
Farm Indiana // may 2014
Cherie, 15, holds Athena, a 1-year-old Nigerian Dwarf doe.
hope // cont. from B1
is tillable, where Roy grows hay to help feed the menagerie. “It just kind of happened,” Roy says of buying the property. “Everything just sort of came together perfectly.” It’s all hands on deck when the family takes to the road, packing everything into their 12-passenger van, cages stacked in the back and a trailer, loaded with fencing, attached at the rear. So far, the family has taken its traveling zoo to a birthday party, a nursing home and a local library. The Miners already have several events booked for 2014, and they hope to link up with some of the local festivals. The zoo also offers a way for the Miner family members, who attend North Madison Christian Church, to share their faith. The name, Hope, is a reference to the story of Noah and the flood. “This is a ministry for us,” Roy explains. “We love God’s creatures. We want to share that with anyone who wants to have us.” The zoo also fits well with the family’s decision to home-school their children. Much research is required before acquiring an animal; they consider all the qualities of a particular breed, such as friendliness, sociability and, of course, size and portability. ® animals instills responsibility Laura said caring for in the children. The older kids, in particular, are very involved with management; Cherie and Megan describe themselves as operation managers. The family’s day begins with chores, including feeding and watering the animals, and on Saturdays everyone helps
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Farm Indiana // may 2014
B3
BELOW: A turtle with three legs, affectionately named Tripoda, was originally named Tripod until he started laying eggs. RIGHT: A guinea pig named Frape’.
to clean cages and pens. Each child has an assigned pen. Some of the zoo’s animals double as 4-H projects. Cherie took top honors in agility with one of their dogs at the local fair. At 15, she is beginning to think about a career. She is considering three options: becoming a missionary, an attorney or, not surprisingly, a vet. “I like taking care of animals,” she says. When the Miners first purchased the land down the street from their home, a neighbor expressed concern that they were going to build a subdivision. “No,” Roy told the man. “We’re going to build a farm.” And building that farm, they are, adding new animals and expanding their business as they can. At some point, Roy says, they may branch out into breeding and selling. Cherie, however, has even loftier goals. “I really want to take the petting zoo to the White House and share the story of Noah and the flood,” she says. “I think we can do it.” *FI
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Farm Indiana // may 2014
Small measures
make big differences in farm safety
story By jon shoulders
hen Rich and Carol Radtke lost their barn and most of their hogs, feed, tools and equipment to a devastating fire on their Prairies Edge Farm property in Kerkhoven, Minn., in early March, they assumed they had an insurance policy in place to take care of the losses. Organic dairy farmers since 2011, the Radtkes repeatedly expressed the need for coverage on their barn during consultations with an insurance agent last fall and planned to refurbish the structure to accommodate
a few recently acquired milk cows. As renovations began later in 2013, they assumed a policy had been established, having never been informed otherwise. A few days after the fire, the bad news dropped. According to their agent, the barn was not covered after all. “He said it was because we hadn’t finished our construction project,” Rich recalls. “When I asked if he remembered that I told him we needed it insured last fall, he admit-
ted I had told him. I then asked why we never got a letter telling us our request for insurance was refused or declined. He didn’t know. We were beside ourselves.” The Radtkes’ ordeal provides a cautionary tale for farmers everywhere to not only familiarize themselves with the finer details of their insurance policies, but to take all possible precautions for preventing fires in the first place. According to Amy Kraft, public affairs specialist at Indiana Farm Bureau Insurance, the first step is to understand
the specific risks that a particular farming operation poses. “The common causes of fire vary by risk exposure,” she says. “For example, a livestock operation has a greater chance of suffering a fire caused by hay or straw, whereas a grain operation is more susceptible to a mechanical or electrical fire. Poor wiring, unmaintained equipment, pesticides and herbicides are also common causes of farm fires.”
Damage Control
John Searle, a retired fire chief in Bartholomew County, says that if farmers are not comfortable undertaking their own initial inspections to determine the salient risks and what type of insurance would be most applicable to their farms, then most fire departments will do private fire inspections. “But the farmer may incur a small charge to do this,” he explains. “This is money well spent, as opposed to the financial catastrophe that a fire could cause.” Kraft adds that the standard blanket farm policy will cover a fire in most cases. “What is most important is to meet regularly with your agent to ensure your farm has the proper coverage for all facets of your farm, including crops, livestock and equipment,” she says. “Always have smoke alarms, heat detectors and fire extinguishers. Complete a farm property inventory and store it in a safe place, such as a safety deposit box.” Combine fires constitute another common fire hazard on farms, according to Bill Field, Purdue Extension safety specialist and professor of agricultural and biological engineering, but these fires are relatively easy to prevent. “Clean your combines at night, which is when a lot of fires tend to happen,” he says. “It’s usually something simple like trash buildup or an overheated bearing. Inspect thoroughly while you’re cleaning, and then you can rest easy.” Owners should keep a close watch for fire hazards that can lead to manure pit fires in swine barns, although the sources of these fires can vary. Oftentimes a layer of foam will form atop the surface of the manure, releasing methane. When ignited from a heater, a spark from a running automobile or even a cigarette, explosions and flash fires can occur. Field says that farmers should take heed of this potentially dangerous process as part of the bigger picture. “In the few cases I’ve learned
Sarah Hansen, Purdue University Extension educator for Johnson County, offers a few tips any farm owner can use to decrease the odds of smoke and fire damage. Have address clearly displayed on both sides of mailbox for the fire department.
Have responders tour your farm to offer suggestions on enhancing safety.
Farmers should also consider chemicals stored in farm buildings. If firefighters use water to combat a fire and this ends up mixing with farm chemicals, the water could run off into creeks and kill fish. Soil and water remediation is then required.
Pesticides should be stored in an isolated building that is secure. Fire-resistant (e.g., concrete block) construction is preferable. Dispatchers should have your chemical storage location and your farm emergency response plan on file and readily available to police, fire and emergency medical services personnel. Centralized storage also allows you and firefighters the option of letting the building burn (versus putting water on it) to minimize contamination of adjacent areas.
For more fire safety information and tips, visit: www.extension.purdue.edu/extmedia/ PPP/PPP-64.pdf
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Farm Indiana // may 2014
John Searle, a retired Bartholomew County fire chief, warns against stacking bales of hay to the ceiling of barns and storage areas.
Fire Safety Checklist Provided by Amy Kraft of Indiana Farm Bureau Insurance Use sealed bulbs and dust sealed fixtures. Have proper wiring and conduit. Install smoke ventilation systems. Have multiple entries that allow easy access to buildings. Provide a straight run to allow livestock to be quickly evacuated. Install fire walls. Keep power sources away from hay, straw and animal bedding. Install on-site water tanks. Prohibit smoking in buildings. Keep ground fuel storage tanks at least 40 feet from buildings. Ensure staff receives proper emergency training.
about, the issue wasn’t the methane but rather a leaking water heater that used propane,” he says. “So folks should look at all factors before jumping to conclusions about manure foaming.” Fire extinguishers should be maintained regularly and inspected annually, and Searle says failing to do so can be disastrous. “I recommend a dry chemical fire extinguisher approved for use on class A, B and C fires,” he explains. “Most of these extinguishers use a chemical powder as an extinguishing agent. However, over time the powder agent can break down and cake, thus rendering the extinguisher unusable. Regular maintenance of these extinguishers can ensure that they are ready for use.” According to Searle, some of the most common farm fire hazards also spring from flawed methods for baling and storing hay. “Farmers need to ensure that hay has been completely dried before baling,” he says. “This is especially true with square bales kept inside for livestock feeding. I grew up on a farm
and have yet to see a farm where storage space is plentiful. If hay is baled early and still has moisture in the grass, it can begin to mold and break down.” This chemical change results in heat as a byproduct, he adds. “The heat cre-
ated by this byproduct is especially dangerous when it occurs in a tight, compacted space, such as a hay bale. This type of heating, with no place for the heat to go, can result in spontaneous combustion.” Searle also warns that hay should never be stacked all the way to the ceilings of barns or storage areas. Since hay is typically baled in the summer months when ambient temperatures are hottest, rising heat and ambient air in the barn can reach extremely high temperatures when trapped by a roof. This phenomenon, in conjunction with stacked hay — particularly hay that has been baled prematurely — can create a high risk for fire. Having learned the hard way what can happen as a result of failing to establish a clear-cut insurance policy, Rich Radtke says it is ultimately up to the individual to ensure both safety on the farm and coverage on paper. “Don’t trust your agent that she or he is going to do his or her job,” he says. “Read your policy. Then read it again.” *FI
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Farm Indiana // may 2014
With its roots sown in Hoosier soil, Indy’s newest local food organization begins to blossom
T
story By clint smith
he formative network of roots that produced the Indy Food Council can be traced back two years or so, sprouting from the collective inception of the Food Systems Action Group, which fostered relationships, awareness and connectivity of Indy’s food system through the Indy Food Fund. Time passed with success for the original action group; goals were met, and visions were realized. But the creative collaborators still had ideas and energy — thus, their recent emergence as the organizing committee for the Indy Food Council (IFC). The Indy Food Council’s philosophic intent is to establish a city food system with integrity — one that provides accessibility to healthy and nutritious food, enhances ecology and creates meaningful economic and civic opportunities. Beyond this, IFC aims to not only catalyze ideas but advance initiatives to grow a sustainable food system that improves the health and quality of life for all. A noble venture, but no small task. “I’ve been part of the conceptualization and formation of the IFC from the very beginning,” says Tim Carter, “working with a variety of partners to figure out the best way to create the IFC in such a way that it would be highly functional, effective and sustainable.” Carter is also the director of Butler University’s Center for Urban Ecology (CUE), an academic center committed to the science, exploration and enhancement of urban ecosystems. “CUE has been involved with food system work since 2010 when we started the CUE Farm and began linking
in with the ongoing urban agriculture initiatives in the city,” he explains. With his avid involvement with CUE, Carter lends an estimable voice to the IFC conversation. “Our holistic ecological approach brings an environmental perspective to the IFC and food system work,” he says. “We co-chair the ecology working group and focus on ways the food system can improve the ecological health of our city. This includes initiatives like productive use of vacant land, elimination of waste streams and energy efficiency in the food system.” Another voice resonating in this ongoing dialogue is that of IFC’s program director, Whitney Fields. A native of Lexington, Ky., she is employing experiences with IFC that she honed while working with AmeriCorps, a philanthropic organization focused on human welfare. Fields is also an urban food fellow with the Local Initiatives Support Corp., whose goal, according to its website, is “to grow the local community development corporations that … do the hard work necessary to revitalize our neighborhoods.” With her versatile background, Fields believes she brings an outsider’s perspective to IFC. “I came into (Indianapolis) very open-minded,” she explains. “And I think that, on a grass-roots level, I can really connect with stakeholders.” Fields refers to IFC as a “collective impact organization” and supplies an aquatic illustration for how she views this eclectic effort. “It’s like being on the water,” she says. “With some projects, you have a lot of talented people paddling in canoes, but they’re headed in different directions. Our
About the IFC: The Indy Food Council has three main goals:
1
To connect food system stakeholders.
2
To catalyze ideas.
3
To advance initiatives to grow a sustainable food system that improves the health and quality of life for all. To accomplish these goals, the Indy Food Council specifically addresses four target areas throughout the city: health, economy, social justice and ecology, all of which the council committee members believe are crucial to restructuring the city’s food system.
Indy Food Council Meeting When: 5:30 p.m. May 8 Where: IFC headquarters, 202 E. Market St., Indianapolis. Information: indyfoodcouncil.org
Tim Carter. Photo courtesy of Ryan Puckett
Farm Indiana // may 2014
goal, through this collective initiative, is to get everyone into one single rowboat.” One direction in which IFC is steering the ship is toward education and awareness, and Fields offers some sobering statistics. “Making people aware of local food access is critical,” she says. “Roughly two-thirds of Hoosiers are obese, and 40 percent of children are overweight; so we need to make our stakeholders aware of issues like this.” “From ... IFC’s community conversations,” says Carter, “education is key around issues of food. I think we can be creative in the way we educate, not just formal content, but fun engagement or creative expressions, so that’s a big opportunity here.” And for Fields, Indy’s local growers are at the center of the continuing dialogue. She encourages farmers to get involved with food agencies like Hoosier Harvest Market and Green Bean Delivery. The key, says Fields, is to discover the best way to get local products to local people. The program director would also like to delve further into incorporating local foods into schools, city-county government and other institutional operations.
Whitney Fields
“Cost represents one of the biggest challenges for healthy food consumption for people in poverty,” said Nic Mink, an urban sustainable food fellow in Butler’s Center for Urban Ecology, in a press release that announced a new Fresh Bucks program that was launched this past November. Mink did much of the groundwork, including writing the grant application and coordinating coalition efforts, to help Butler’s Center for Urban Ecology, the Indy Hunger Network and the Indiana Healthy Weight Initiative receive a $50,000 Indiana State Department of Agriculture grant to kick off the program, which helps food stamp recipients who shop at farmers markets, as well as small farmers hoping to sell more of their products. The Fresh Bucks program enables those who use Supplemental Nutrition Assistance Program (SNAP) benefits to double their spending dollars up to $20 on Indi-
ana-native fruits, vegetables, honey, herbs and spices, maple syrup and seedlings for edible plants. Led by the Indy Hunger Network, Fresh Bucks is a coalition of the participating farmers markets, the organizing committee of the Indy Food Council, Indiana Healthy Weight Initiative, Indiana Family and Social Services Administration, Indiana Cooperative Development Center and Butler’s Center for Urban Ecology. After its initial launch at the Indy Winter Farmers’ Market, Fresh Bucks will expand to other area markets throughout Marion County, including the Original Farmers’ Market at Indianapolis City Market, this spring. “The Original Farmers’
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Market was selected as a focus market because of its urban center location and high SNAP redemption rate,” says Stevi Stoesz, executive director of the Indianapolis City Market. “We are excited to provide a platform that connects healthy, fresh fruits and vegetables to consumers, while fostering a personal relationship between the farmer/producer and consumer.” “I know I couldn’t be happier with the way that it’s grown,” Mink says of the Fresh Bucks program. “It’s having a positive effect on Hoosier farmers and some of our vulnerable citizens in our community who need help getting access to good food. That’s a win-win for everybody.”
Original Farmers’ Market
For further information, visit The Indianapolis City Market website at www.indycm.com
Carter sees it this way: “If you are a local farmer, you already are involved; the Indy Food Council just wants to help you with resources to do your work better and more efficiently.” One service segment offering local support comes from the restaurant industry in the form of chefs, owners and distributors. Carter explains that “most local restaurants in the city are looking for ways to help the food system and support growers. There is a real need on the grower side to continue to expand capacity to meet this demand, particularly as we enter potential tipping points with scale and local food distribution that can create a healthy system.” Local organizations, like the Efroymson Family Fund, the Nina Mason Pulliam Charitable Trust, Eskenazi Health and IU Health, as well as the city of Indianapolis, have partnered with and contributed resources to IFC to take on various initiatives in the city. “For the urban growers in Indianapolis, Patachou Inc. is particularly supportive of the hyper-local urban farms,” Carter says. And Fields acknowledges culinary entities like Black Market and Bluebeard for their eager embracing of IFC’s agenda. So who can become a member of IFC? Simple: anyone. “Individual memberships are free,” says Fields, “and we encourage everyone to get involved, particularly with our working group meetings.”
The 17th annual Original Farmers’ Market season opens at 9:30 a.m. May 7 and offers the fresh produce, meats, eggs, cheeses, honey, syrups and goods of more than 60 Indiana vendors. Rain or shine, the downtown Indianapolis market runs every Wednesday, May through October, from 9:30 a.m. until 1:30 p.m. on Market Street between Alabama and Delaware streets. In an effort to alleviate hunger in Marion County, the Original Farmers’ Market is launching the Buy Two Give One campaign this year in conjunction with Indy Urban Acres and Wheeler Mission Ministries. Original Farmers’ Market patrons are encouraged to purchase extra produce during their market visit and drop it in the Buy Two Give One bushel basket at the Original Farmers’ Market information tent located in front of City Market on Market Street. “A team of volunteers known as The Glean Team will deliver the collected fresh items to one of three Wheeler Mission Ministries’ shelter kitchens every Wednesday afternoon,” says Stevi Stoesz, executive director of the Indianapolis City Market. *FI
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Farm Indiana // may 2014
TOWER POWER
A Bloomington inventor hopes to help people grow their own food story By shawndra miller photos by josh marshall
t took the combined wisdom of a retired professional athlete and an Amish man to lead Bloomington’s Colin Cudmore to recognize a startling gap in the nation’s food system — and to invent an innovative solution, called the Garden Tower Project, to fill it. Former pro basketball player Will Allen, the Milwaukee-based founder of the nonprofit Growing Power, made an IU-Bloomington appearance to speak on the inequity surrounding food access. Food deserts in predominantly poor neighborhoods, he explained, leave many lower income and minority people unable to buy produce. Food deserts are defined as geographic areas where affordable and nutritious food is hard to obtain, particularly for residents without transportation. Cudmore says he realized that “people in poor urban areas all across this country and all across the world often lack access to organic food, or even fresh food for that matter. A lot of people are eating out of convenience stores.” With a creative bent to his personality and a couple patents under his belt, it was natural for Cudmore to start considering ways to address the problem. His commitment would be solidified at a farmers market where he volunteered. There he had another epiphany. He noticed that an Amish vendor’s starter plants were not selling, though the produce itself was. In speaking with the grower, he learned that the customers typically declared they didn’t have the time or know-how to grow produce. That turned the wheels even more, and Cudmore began researching possibilities. He pored over YouTube videos, searching for success stories. What solutions were already working in the movement to empower people to grow their own food? “I didn’t have any gardening experience at the time,” he says. “And that process took probably weeks if not months, just putting the idea in my head and writing down a list of criteria.” He schemed a “patio farm” design around several requirements: the product had to be lightweight, easy to ship, accessible and simple to prototype. The idea of a vertical garden in a barrel began to take
shape. The design would enable users to grow 45 plants in pockets, with potential for another five plants up top. Like a large strawberry planter, it could produce a great deal of food in a small amount of space. But what would really set Cudmore’s invention apart was the addition of an enclosed worm farm. “The eureka moment was the centrally located composter, the vermicomposter,” he says. This plastic tube is perforated with dozens of holes. With the addition of a handful of red wigglers and vegetable scraps from the gardener’s own kitchen, the tower would become an elegantly self-fertilizing system. In tweaking the prototype for the Garden Tower Project, Cudmore benefited from the expertise of co-founder Joel Grant, an environmental scientist and expert in natural systems. They soon brought in a third partner, Tom Tlusty, whose health professional experience helped them reach a wide audience. Two years later, 1,500 Garden Towers are in use nationwide. Users with a range of experience levels — from novices to master gardeners — report that yields are surpassing all expectation. Bloomington resident Patti Cummings says she has gardened for years, though “not necessarily successfully,” and when she started her Garden Tower last spring she was amazed at the result. “The foliage was just beautiful,” she says. “I had some things turn out successfully that I’ve never had luck with.” Deer are a big problem where she lives, and the deer left her Garden Tower plantings alone. “I was actually able to raise cabbage and not have something come along and eat it,” she says. Cummings loves the small footprint of the tower, which only takes up 4 square feet, and she has purchased additional ones for other members of her family. While patio farming may not be for the gardener who wants to preserve large quantities of homegrown produce, she says it’s great for teaching children about growing things and increasing self-sufficiency. “If you’ve got one sunny corner, you can at least keep yourself in salad.” The Garden Tower holds special appeal for people who might not otherwise have the ability to garden, such as elderly folks and people with disabilities. Unlike traditional gardening, there’s no soil preparation after the initial filling of the barrel. “You don’t have to go out there with a shovel and hoe,” says Cudmore. “You don’t have to do any weeding. And you can garden from a chair.”
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Cummings agrees. “It’s convenient — there’s not as much bending and stooping,” she explains. In fact, she recently suggested the Garden Tower to a friend whose daughter is in a wheelchair and has expressed interest in gardening. Several Garden Tower users are in their 90s, including Cudmore’s own mother-in-law. “As people cycle from traditional gardening into their elderly years, and they’re unable to garden anymore, this is a simple solution,” he says. The barrels are made of recyclable food-grade plastic, and the latest version, which is terra cotta colored, uses an FDA-certified dye. Currently the plastic used to make the Garden Tower body is high-density polyethylene. This type of plastic is BPA-free and provides at least 10 years of resistance to UV radiation before the shell integrity begins to decline. While the petroleum-based material adds to the product’s environmental footprint, there may be a change on the horizon. According to Grant, polyethylene is one of the simplest hydrocarbons and can easily be produced from bio-sources. So the potential is there to make a petroleum-free Garden Tower. Cudmore brings up another point to consider when weighing the product’s impact: food miles. Fruits and vegetables can come from as far away as South America and New Zealand. “Imagine all the oil necessary to get that fruit to market, starting with the fertilizer, which in most cases is petroleum-based,” he explains. Fossil fuel energy is involved in the manufacture and running of ships and trucks transporting the produce, and also in supermarket lighting, heating/cooling and refrigeration. “If you look at the actual input of this,” he says, “we have designed this product to last a lifetime.” Currently a manufacturer in Illinois supplies the drums. Then Cudmore, Grant and Tlusty (and a small army of behind-the-scenes craftspeople) turn the barrels into Garden Towers. All but 1 percent of the components are American-made and -sourced. Midwestern oak is hand milled for the legs, for example. The three partners see the Garden Tower Project as a potential game changer in the quest to build more resilient and food-secure communities. That’s not only because the self-composting design transforms kitchen waste into fast-growing food, allowing families to enjoy homegrown produce with minimal effort. It’s also about water conservation. The plastic covering the bulk of the soil keeps evaporation to a minimum, and given the number of communities where water scarcity is becoming the norm, this is a huge benefit. Irrigating 50 plants in an enclosed barrel is
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Farm Indiana // may 2014
BELOW: Colin Cudmore uses a router to hand make each Garden Tower. RIGHT: The staff at the Garden Tower Project. OPPOSITE PAGE: The inside view of a Garden Tower.
>> For more information, visit gardentowerproject.com. quite different from irrigating the same plants in a traditional garden plot. To illustrate this, Cudmore tells the story of a customer attempting to garden in Arizona’s high desert. “They’ve tried every form of in-ground gardening imaginable,” he says. “They were using 50 gallons of water to service 50 plants, and it was just so hot, it was evaporating from the soil and the air.” No matter what the Arizonan gardener tried — permaculture practices, hugelkultur (planting in woody mounds) — it took a gallon a day, per plant, to keep the garden productive. After purchasing the Garden Tower, this gardener saw a dramatic decrease in water needs. A garden that would have demanded 50 gallons of water per day now required a mere 5 gallons a day. Watering plants in a large container has another advantage: The excess water can be caught from the drain at the bottom and recycled back through the system. Over the course of a growing season, the captured liquid becomes a nutrient-rich medium itself: “It’s filtering through a soil system,” explains Cudmore, “that has worms continually passing through it that are digesting
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the food in the central column, and they’re basically pooing as they travel through it and creating fertilizer.” Water scarcity isn’t the only barrier to the kind of distributed agriculture that the Garden Tower Project’s partners envision. Worldwide, the potential for farming is limited by high levels of toxins in the soil. Tlusty points to China’s estimated 8 million to 13 million acres of toxic land. Closer to home, “we’ve got problems in Pennsylvania and all over the country, in different places, where (due to) land toxicity, you don’t know what’s in the soil,” he says. “So that’s another place where the Garden Tower is really strong because we can control the inputs.” Though they are kept busy handcrafting the barrels to fill orders, the partners are working to bring schools and other institutions to vertical gardening. A HUD community group in California placed Garden Towers with lowincome homeowners. Meanwhile several local schools are using the towers in science classes, while a professor at Clemson University in South Carolina is developing curriculum materials. “We’ve had great preliminary feedback from educators,” says Tlusty. Because of her positive experience introducing patio farming to her 5-year-old granddaughter, Cummings purchased towers to donate to a middle school and two Boys & Girls Club affiliates. The Garden Tower Project matched her gifts with an elementary school placement. “So many people don’t have any idea where their food comes from other than Kroger,” she says. She hopes that by sprinkling some lettuce seeds and tucking some starts in their Garden Tower, the children will gain some empowerment and see that “you can grow some of your own stuff; you don’t have to be dependent upon others.” *FI
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Farm Indiana // may 2014
Note: This is the first of a series on government, private and alternative funding available to Indiana farmers. Look for more information on available grant money in next month’s Farm Indiana.
Government Funds
REQUEST GRANTED Funding opportunities for Indiana’s farmers
Despite a slow launch and considerable controversy, the Farm Bill offers some real benefits for farmers. Government grants are available for farmers, ranchers, new farmers and ranchers, producer groups, beginning farmers, young farmers and socially disadvantaged farmers. The grant programs listed here are available to folks in the U.S. and its territories. The amount of funding for which you would be eligible is based on the individual grant limits and the scope and size of your project. More information is available on government programs at www.usda.gov/wps/portal/usda/ usdahome?navid=GRANTS_LOANS.
compiled By cissy bowman
Two situations usually keep farm folks from receiving grant money: First, they don’t know that the programs exist; second, they don’t apply for the funds. This series, then, will provide you with the basics on what money is available and will offer tips on how best to apply. I will try to include information on what is available in as timely a manner as possible, as deadlines vary for each program. That said, most of these programs are ongoing — they will be here next year — so don’t despair if you can’t get a 2014 application in on time.
The Agriculture and Food Research Initiative
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A foundational program that provides competitive grants for fundamental and applied research and education to address food and agricultural sciences in six priority areas:
The National Resource Conservation Service (NRCS) Environmental Quality Incentive Program (EQIP)
Your first step (unless you have already done so) is to go to your local Farm Services Agency (FSA) to get a number for your farm. (Find your local office online at offices.sc.egov. usda.gov/locator/app.) Call ahead to schedule your appointment. Ask to speak with a technical service provider (TSP) who has been trained by NRCS to assist you. The fee for their services is paid for by grant funds.
EQIP includes:
The Forest Management Activity Plan is a site-specific plan that addresses one or more resource concerns on land where forestry-related conservation activities or practices will be planned and applied. Objectives include improvement of income, forest stand improvement, improvement of wildlife habitat/riparian areas, recreation, agroforestry and pollinator habitat and protection. The Agricultural Energy Management Plan requires the creation of a plan that includes detailed documentation of your operation’s energy-consuming components and practices, your previous year’s on-farm energy consumption and the strategy by which you will explore and address your on-farm energy conservation concerns, objectives and opportunities. The Integrated Pest Management (IPM) Plan is a conservation activity plan documenting decisions by producer/ growers who agree to implement an ecosystem-based strategy that offers a sustainable approach to managing pests. These approaches use a combination of practices and techniques that may include the use of chemical tools, biological control and habitat manipulation, modification of cultural practices and use of resistant varieties. Methods of chemical applications will minimize risks to human health, beneficial and non-target organisms and the environment. The Organic Initiative is a conservation activity plan that documents decisions by producers/growers who agree to implement a system of conservation practices that will help to transition from conventional farming or ranching systems to an organic production system. This will assist the farmer/rancher in the development of an Organic System Plan (OSP) as defined in the USDA National Organic Program
(NOP) Standards (www.ams.usda.gov/nop). The Fish and Wildlife Habitat Plan is a site-specific plan developed for those who are ready to plan and implement decisions with consideration for fish and wildlife habitat and other biological resources. The Pollinator Habitat Enhancement Plan is a sitespecific conservation plan that addresses the improvement, restoration, enhancement or expansion of flower-rich habitat that supports native and/or managed pollinators. The Seasonal High Tunnel Initiative is a program that provides financial and technical assistance to agricultural producers who wish to incorporate high tunnels into their production. The goal of the initiative is to assist producers to extend the growing season for high-value crops in an environmentally safe manner.
How to Apply:
NRCS accepts and processes EQIP applications on a continuous basis. However, each state may establish deadlines for one or more applications. Applications submitted after the dates here will be evaluated and considered for funding during later funding opportunities. Producers must submit a complete program application and other documentation to support eligibility to be considered for financial assistance through EQIP.
—Plant health and production and plant products —Animal health and production and animal products —Food safety, nutrition and health —Renewable energy, natural resources and environment —Agriculture systems and technology —Agriculture economics and rural communities Eligibility depends on the project type. Eligible entities may include colleges and universities, research organizations, federal agencies, private organizations or corporations and individuals. Program application deadlines range from April 9 to Sept. 30, depending on the program.
Information:
www.nifa.usda.gov/funding/rfas/afri.html
Deadlines:
May 16 for grants to be evaluated for funding in fiscal year 2014. Applications received after that date will be accepted and evaluated for future rounds of funding. Advance payment opportunities now exist for veteran agricultural producers, socially disadvantaged, beginning and limited resource farmers, Indian tribes and veterans. NRCS encourages you to apply at any time and periodically announces cutoff dates when applications are ranked for funding.
Information: www.nrcs.usda.gov/ wps/portal/nrcs/main/national/ programs/financial/eqip or www.nrcs.usda.gov/wps/portal/nrcs/ main/in/programs
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North Central Region-Sustainable Agriculture Research and Education Program (NCR-SARE)
Administers several grant programs, each with specific priorities, audiences and timelines. The focus for all of the NCR-SARE grant programs is on research and education. Funding considerations are made based on how well the applicant articulates the nature of the research and education components of their sustainable agriculture grant proposals. NCR-SARE’s Grant Programs include Farmer Rancher, Research and Education, Professional Development Program, Graduate Student and Youth Educator grants. The Farmer Rancher Grant Program is a competitive grants program for farmers and ranchers who want to explore sustainable solutions to problems through on-farm research, demonstration and education projects. Generally the awards can be individual ($7,500 maximum), partner ($15,000 maximum) or group ($22,500 maximum) grants. Projects may last up to 22 months. Farmer Rancher grants have funded a variety of topics, including pest/disease management, crop and livestock production, education/outreach, networking, quality of life issues, marketing, soil quality, energy and more. Research and education projects include a strong outreach component and significant farmer/rancher or other end user involvement from inception of the idea through implementation of the project. Research and education grant awards range from $10,000 to $200,000. Projects may last up to 36 months. NCR-SARE’s Professional Development Grant Program supports state professional development programs and competitive grants for training agricultural professionals. Youth Educator grants are a new part of the Farmer Rancher Grant program to help educators provide programming on sustainable agriculture for youths. $2,000 maximum grants are available.
How to Apply:
1. Determine which SARE grant program is right for you. 2. Search the national SARE database of projects to review previously funded grants in your topic area.
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USDA’s Farm to School Grants
Help eligible schools improve the health and well-being of their students and connect with local agricultural producers by using local farm offerings in school lunches. Three kinds of grants are available, as well as a separate funding track to support training and events. Planning grants are intended for schools just getting started on farm-to-school activities. Implementation grants are available for schools seeking to augment or expand existing efforts. Additionally, eligible nonprofit entities, Indian tribal organizations, state and local agencies, and agriculture producers or groups of producers may apply for support service grants in order to conduct training, create complementary curriculum or further develop supply chains.
Deadline:
11:59 p.m. EST, April 30.
Information:
(202) 720-4623 or www.fns.usda.gov/farmtoschool/farm-school
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The Organic Cost Share Program
Provides funding for certified organic farmers through their state department of agriculture, which will reimburse 75 percent (up to $750) of the cost of certification. Please contact the Indiana State Department of Agriculture for more information and deadlines.
Information:
(317) 232-8770 or www.in.gov/isda
3. Get a copy of the NCR-SARE call for proposals from the appropriate program and ask to be put on the regional mailing list for future calls. 4. Determine the relevant deadline for the grant program(s) from which you seek funding.
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Private Grants
The Organic Farm Research Foundation (OFRF) encourages farmers, ranchers, researchers and extension personnel to apply for funding. Farmers and ranchers often find that working with a professional researcher can help the design and fulfillment of a research project, and OFRF encourages applications from such partnerships.
Deadline:
May 15 for the 2014 funding cycle. OFRF will make funding decisions in November, and applicants will be notified by Dec. 31.
Information:
(831) 426-6606 or ofrf.org/research
5. Contact potential collaborators and develop proposal ideas. 6. Get help with proposal writing, if necessary. 7. Submit your proposal, following all guidelines, prior to the specified deadline.
The founder and program director of Hoosier Organic Marketing Education, Cissy Bowman has been growing food organically since 1973 and on her current farm,
Information:
(612) 626-3113 or ncrsare@umn.edu
Center Valley Organic Farm, since 1983. For more information on Hoosier Organic Marketing Education, email cvof@earthlink.net or call (317) 539-2753. *FI
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Farm Indiana // may 2014
EatLocal
Joseph Decuis 191 N. Main St., Roanoke, (260) 672-1715, www.josephdecuis.com
Joseph Decuis provides gourmet, organically grown food and culinary mastery in rural Indiana story By sherri dugger photos courtesy of joseph decuis
When her husband, Pete, began a sports insurance business out of the basement of their home in 1989, Alice Eshelman certainly couldn’t have imagined it would someday morph into the restaurant—or perhaps better termed the fine-dining empire—that it is today. But no matter the original business plan, the insurance company is in the past for Pete and Alice, and what remains at hand is what’s important: delicious, gourmet dishes at the nationally known restaurant, Joseph Decuis, in Roanoke. Pete now calls himself a CEO and farmer; he runs a 200-acre farm six miles down the road from Joseph Decuis. There, he raises Wagyu livestock, a breed of cattle native to Japan that produces world-renowned Kobe beef, and free-range hens. The Eshelmans also grow many of the herbs and vegetables served at the restaurant;
Saturday. “I don’t know now how we would have done it if we just opened a restaurant. It was a nice gradual growth for us.” Now the restaurant, named after one of Pete’s Creole ancestors, can offer approximately 125 guests a seat in any one of six dining rooms: The Exhibition room features a view of the bustling kitchen; the Club includes a bar and formal dining room in the original bank building; the Victorian-style Conservatory provides al-fresco dining; the New Orleans-style Courtyard surrounds guests with lush gardens; and the Gallery Board Room and Chairman’s Office spaces are perfect for private business meetings and dinners. Also on the grounds is a farmersmarket-like gourmet Emporium, from which customers can purchase soups, gumbos, chowders, bisques and sauces, as well as its beef and vegetable
“From the beginning, that was our mantra. You don’t compromise on quality.” — Alice Eshelman
what they don’t grow themselves, they purchase from “like-minded” organic farms in the region. Alice refers to her role in the family business as a “proprietor.” Some years back, her culinary prowess was what led to the birth of Joseph Decuis. As Pete’s insurance company grew, clients would often visit the Eshelman home, and Alice would set about to cooking for them. In 2000, Pete decided to buy an old bank building on north Main Street in the heart of Roanoke—the purchase would help to better serve his customers. The couple quickly began renovations, adding a mezzanine level to the building where they could host corporate luncheons. That dining room then expanded to another. Then dinner was added “three nights a week,” says Alice, who adds she served as the “hostess, waitress and busboy” at times. Then more dining rooms. The couple eventually expanded into the property next door, and dinner is served Monday through
offerings. There’s also the master kitchen, which the Eshelmans refer to as the Culinarium, where chefs routinely ideate, teach and test dishes. And down the road sits The Inn at Joseph Decuis, a quaint, turn-of-thecentury bed-and-breakfast just a short walk from the restaurant.
Farm Fresh The Decuis Farm is a venue for fine dining all its own. Seasonal special events are held there, and private farm tours are given to showcase the drugfree, humane, stress-free sustainable farming practices used. In 2010 the Indiana State Department of Agriculture recognized Eshelman for exceeding industry standards in farm management practices. In 2013, the restaurant celebrated its 13-year anniversary. Alice refers to eating a meal at Joseph Decuis as a “farm to fork” experience. The menu mixes classic cooking with American ingenuity, and it uses all-natural, seasonal ingredients. “From the beginning, that was our mantra,” she says. “You don’t
compromise on quality.” In 2001, Alice planted her first organic garden, and, since, her all-natural offerings have grown. “We added chickens, and my husband, for my 50th birthday, gave me 20 pregnant heifers.” Wagyu ribeyes are popular options on the menu, but diners also regularly choose the wild-caught Columbia River salmon, with asparagus, local mushrooms, risotto Milanese and lobster sauce. Other entrees might include the Gunthorp Farm duck breast, served with local sides that change seasonally, or the Sears Massachusetts diver scallops, with homemade pasta, Sugarbush Farm asparagus, fiddlehead ferns, ramps, morels and lemon zest.
Recognized by Wine Spectator magazine for having one of the finest restaurant wine lists in the world, Joseph Decuis not only offers a selection of 65 varietals from 12 countries but also stocks ports for all tastes. Regardless of dinner choice, there’s an appropriate pairing for each meal. The bank’s original vaults now serve as wine cellars. Appetizers, like the Joseph Decuis Farm-raised Wagyu beef carpaccio or the Strauss Farm veal sweetbreads, set the tone for each dinner, and desserts, such as chocolate bourbon pecan cake and Palazzolo’s artisan gelatos and sorbettos, naturally enough, provide a sweet finish. *FI
Asparagus: Nature’s Gift That Keeps on Giving A well-known perennial vegetable, asparagus may take a couple of years to start producing, but once your plants are established, you’ll be seeing the glorious green fruits (er … veggies) of your labor year after year. Here, Hoosier chef Joshua Schubert passes along one of his favorite recipes for spring. “I usually just pick asparagus off the fence lines in the spring,” says Schubert, noting that suitable substitutes for the filling include spinach, Swiss chard, kale, beets and peas.
Asparagus Ravioli Yields 36 ravioli
1 pound thick asparagus, trimmed, spears cut into ¼-inch pieces, blanched or grilled 4 ounces cream cheese 1/3 cup ricotta cheese 1/4 cup grated parmesan 1 tablespoon minced garlic 5 large fresh basil leaves, chopped Pinch ground cayenne pepper Kosher salt, cracked black pepper to taste 36 wonton wrappers
DIRECTIONS: , ricotta, Combine cream cheese cayenne, pinch parmesan, garlic, basil, aragus and salt and pepper. Add asp combine. per, making Stuff each wonton wrap seal edges with a sure to remove air, and light rub of water. , boiling Blanch the ravioli in salted nute or until water for about one mi “Shock” the they float to the surface. ing process) by ravioli (to halt the cook for two minplacing them in ice water completely. utes. Remove and drain sauté pan Finish the ravioli in a ve oil or other with brown butter, oli sauce of choice.
Farm Indiana // may 2014
Over a year has passed since Cerulean welcomed guests to its Indianapolis venue on the northeast corner of Delaware and South streets, emerging as an epicurean destination on the ever-evolving downtown dining map. But even before its opening in November, 2012, Cerulean was far from a new kid on the block—new to the city, sure, but not to the trends and rhythms of the restaurant industry. For more than seven years, Cerulean’s owners, Caleb and Courtney France, have enjoyed the success of the original Winona Lake restaurant, which bears the same skyblue-inspired namesake as their Indianapolis location. Yet their Indy iteration—in terms of both aesthetics and menu execution—required a slight shift in medium. Though some atmospheric echoes exist of the cozy, cottage accents of the Winona Lake forerunner, the Indy site has subscribed to an urban braiding of sleek minimalism and inviting opulence. Beneath exposed ductwork crisscrossing the ceiling is a softly lit dining room cooled by hard-lined steely tints of gray, and warmed by touches of teak, russet, chocolate, with a lounge-mellow soundtrack further softening the space. A wood-planked wall dividing the bar area and restaurant is painted with horizontal streaks of blue—no doubt a stylish signature to the establishment’s title.
Go Blue Cerulean serves Indiana-grown food with flair
By Clint Smith Photos provided by Cerulean
And included as a centerpiece to the restaurant is the “nest,” an intimate, semisecluded dome (not unlike an upturned bird’s nest) composed of a latticework of mix-matched wooden planks. But one of the integral adjustments comes in the delivery method of the dishes themselves, and the solution was the bento box. Japanese in origin, these square, wooden devices (whose translation is associated with the term “convenient”) provide Cerulean with a platform to rearrange pairings of entrees and accompaniments, while offering a framework to showcase ingredients. Here’s how it works: guests select one main entrée item before choosing three sides. All four items are then presented in three separate, ceramic dishes within the elegant wooden bento box. As the menu at Cerulean changes quarterly, the available offerings are frequently altered to honor what is fresh and seasonally suiting. One bento box might feature an entrée of wild salmon paired with pineapple chutney and fresno chili peppers, with sides that include a pear and papaya salad (a sweet-and-spicy mixture of shredded carrot and chipotle vinaigrette); bibb lettuce with Indiana apples, cherry, and roasted shallot vinaigrette; and homemade noodles with sunflowers seeds, cabbage, jalapeno and citrus vinegar. Yet another bento permutation also results in a study in contrasts: skirt steak with crispy potatoes and sorrel chimichurri (a brightgreen, herb-and-vinegar condiment popular in South America, often served with grilled meat). The sides include English cucumber tossed with sesame seeds and sweet vinaigrette; goat cheese custard: a silky and savory concoction garnished with crumbled, herbed shortbread; and Brussels sprouts lightly coated with maple syrup, and topped with smoky bacon and fried sage. Yet amid all the aesthetic adjustments, and among all the international influence on the menu, one component remains steadfast in this Indy-venture: a spotlight on local food, its farmers and its producers. Just as the masterminds of Cerulean were magnetized to Indy’s growing restaurant scene, so too was Craig Gareiss, sous chef with Cerulean in Indianapolis. “There are a lot of like-minded folks in the city, and it’s a great feeling,” says Gareiss. “The chefs in town have
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a sense of responsibility to work with the local farmers and food producers here, and I enjoy the fact that we can share information with one another.” Gareiss also has a personal interest in working in the Hoosier state. Hailing from Centerville, Gareiss began working in the restaurant industry in his early teens. A dishwashing gig led to line-cooking responsibilities, and the skills learned on “the line” later became refined after he enrolled in culinary school at Mercyhurst University in Pennsylvania. From there, Gareiss began a lengthy culinary sojourn. When asked about where he’s gained his experience, it’s clear that naming the numerous locales would be an exhaustive exercise. Gareiss simply laughs, shakes his head and replies: “Everywhere.” Gareiss served a stint in Las Vegas before returning to Indiana with the ambitious intention of joining Cerulean. The food and culture that the owners, along with executive chef, Chase Hilton, were devising for the Indianapolis offshoot were an ideal fit for Gareiss. “We like to take risks with the food and really try to pair things that a lot of folks wouldn’t normally think go together.” Returning to a discussion on the strengths of the Indianapolis market, Gareiss believes that Indy residents share an appreciation for local foods, and he enjoys the fact that Cerulean strives to use as much “homegrown” products as possible. “We focus on local ingredients, and this is what drives our creativity in the kitchen.” All one has to do is glance over the menu—or eye the massive, concave dryerase wall in the bar area—which applauds nearly two dozen Hoosier farmers, food producers, and wineries that contribute to Cerulean’s menu. Among them are Mapleleaf Farms (Milford), Seven Sons Family Farms and Company (Roanoke), Capshaw Cellars (Lanesville), and Viking Lamb (Morristown). While success is never inevitable for any restaurant, it seems likely for Cerulean, owing to its partnership with the local community and its creative team of chefs—all of whom hold Midwestern culture and cuisine in esteem. “Indiana is where I was raised and it has this draw to it,” Gareiss says. “You can leave, but never feel like you’re at home when you’re not here.” *FI
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Farm Indiana // may 2014
EatLocal compiled By sherri dugger and jon shoulders photos by josh marshall
Anything but Square Thanks to continued openings of restaurants, bars and retail shops in the area, Fountain Square is now considered a heavy-hitting provider of top-notch eats and late-night noshes in Indianapolis. Should you find yourself in the mood for something a little different, consider hopping over to this near-southside neighborhood, which is not only garnering a good name for itself among Hoosier consumers, but has been getting a good deal of national attention, too. Here, we offer you dozens of reasons to head to the “Square” hungry.
MEET YOUR PALS »We can still remember a time when only a few bars populated the streets of Fountain Square, and now we lose track of all that’s there. For Mexican, meet your pals and grab a bite at Revolucion (1132 E. Prospect St., 317-423-9490, www.facebook.com/ RevolucionIndy), Fountain Square’s own cantina and tiki bar, or La Margarita Restaurant and Tequila Bar (1043 Virginia Ave., Suite 1, 317-384-1457, lamargaritaindy.com), where you’ll find dozens of tequilas and tequila cocktails on the drink menu. If fish and chips are more your style, head to Red Lion Grog House (1043 Virginia Ave., 317-822-4764, www.redliongroghouse.com), which claims to be Indy’s only upscale English-style restaurant for menu staples like shepherd’s pie, bangers and mash and Scotch eggs.
Chicken and Hoecake Sandwich Thunderbird
La Margarita Restaurant and Tequila Bar
TAKE THE KIDS
Revolucion
»You have plenty of options to keep the kids happy and sated in Fountain Square. B’s Po Boy (1261 S. Shelby St., 317-916-5555, www.bpoboy.com) offers a Cajun and Creole menu chock full of po-boy sandwiches, salads and Louisiana-inspired sides, as well as two outdoor bocce ball courts for play during warmer weather. Other kid-approved restaurants include Maria’s Original Pizza (1106 Prospect St., 317-786-9283, www.mariasoriginalpizza.com), an area favorite for more than 50 years; Pure Eatery (1043 Virginia Ave., Suite 3, 317-602-5724, www. pureeatery.com), which uses local ingredients in its sandwiches, paninis, salads and burritos; Tortas Guicho Dominguez y El Cubanito (641 Virginia Ave., 317-658-0735, tortasguicho.com), purveyor of authentic gourmet Mexican sandwiches, tacos and quesadillas; and Smokehouse on Shelby (1105 Prospect St., 317-685-1959, www.fountainsquareindy. com/smokehouse), which offers pulled pork, wings, baby back ribs and hand-dipped milkshakes. For more fun: Atomic Bowl Duckpin & Action
Duckpin Bowl, located, respectively, in the basement and on the fourth floor of the Fountain Square Theatre Building (1105 Prospect St, Indianapolis, 317-686-6010, www.fountainsquareindy. com), take guests back in time. Both alleys, filled with bowling memorabilia, make use of retro duckpinsized pins and balls and offer a snack bar menu for cravings. At Blue Moon Games (874 Virginia Ave., 317-822-4263), your young ones can fuel up at the café, which features sandwiches, paninis, light snacks and beverages, before immersing themselves in some serious tabletop gaming. Stacks of games are provided for patrons, and gaming supplies are also available for sale. While you’re in the area, stop at Hero House Comics (1112 Prospect St., Indianapolis, 317-636-7990) to find comic books of all genres for sale and grab a cone at Cultured Swirl (1026 Virginia Ave., 317-602-8808, areyoucultured.com), Indy’s only organic, gluten-free frozen yogurt shop.
B’s Po Boy
For more fun: After dinner, skip over to Radio
Radio (1119 E. Prospect St., 317-955-0995, www. futureshock.net), one of Indy’s mainstays for live original music from local, regional and national acts, or grab a custom brew like Hop for Teacher or the Preacher’s Daughter at Fountain Square Brewing Co. (1301 Barth Ave., 317-493-1410, fountainsquarebrewery.com). Snacks from Nameless Pizza, also located in the Fountain Square district, are regularly offered to accompany the beer. Last but certainly not least, White Rabbit Cabaret (1116 Prospect St., 317-686-9550, www.whiterabbitcabaret. com) also offers late-night entertainment with a speakeasy/variety show vibe.
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Farm Indiana // may 2014
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WOO YOUR SWEETHEART »Everybody’s talking about Thunderbird (1127 Shelby St., 317-974-9580, thunderbirdindy.com) these days—and with good reason. The latest restaurant installment in the area offers a Southern-inspired menu with hipster flair. Equally impressive on the culinary scene is Bluebeard (653 Virginia Ave., 317-686-1580, bluebeardindy.com), where you can dine on upscale Mediterranean-inspired cuisine made with local meat and produce. Fresh bread from Amelia’s, which specializes in hearth-baked Italian bread, is on sale daily at the Bluebeard lunch counter. For something a little more intimate and less-traveled, you can’t go wrong with the Peruvian-inspired delights to be found at Mama Irma (1058 Virginia Ave., 317-423-2421, www.mamairma.com), the fresh traditional Asian dishes at Naisa Pan Asian Café (1025 Virginia Ave., 317-602-3708, www.naisacafe.com) or the always flavorful Thai appetizers and entrees at Siam Square (936 Virginia Ave., 317-636-8424, siamsquareindy.com). For more fun: Stop in for a sip at the family-owned
New Day Meadery (1102 Prospect St., 888-632-3379, newdaymeadery.com), home of delicious hard ciders and meads; Brass Ring Lounge (1245 Shelby St., 317635-7464, www.thebrassringlounge.com), an art decoinspired bar and restaurant with a quirky menu of its own; or Imbibe Lobby Bar (1105 Shelby St., 317-6851959, www.fountainsquareindy.com/imbibe), where you’ll find handcrafted cocktails, craft beers and a small selection of wines, as well as lighter fare like jumbo shrimp cocktail, hummus and fresh baked pretzel sticks.
Thunderbird
COFFEE BREAK »Getting tired? For a caffeine fix, hop over to Calvin Fletcher’s Coffee Co. (647 Virginia Ave., 317-423-9697, www.cfcoffeecompany.com), which serves organic and fair trade coffee, organic teas, sodas and pastries or Funkyard Coffee Shop and Gallery (1114 Prospect St., 317-822-3865, www.facebook.com/Funkyard.Indy), an art gallery and café rolled into one. *FI
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Farm Indiana // may 2014
alookback
Brown County History ”I would stay with my grandfather on Oak Grove Road at his farm. There was no electricity, water came from a pump, there was an outhouse and the rooms had no built-ins of any kind. There was a huckster wagon in the 1940s … Merrill Moore … he drove the huckster truck around. It was an old school bus. My grandmother would buy candy and flour from the truck. The thing I loved about it was the candy bar. They would always have a few candy bars on there, and I guess she had a sweet tooth, too, because she would buy one for me and one for her. Those trucks would have flour, sugar and probably salt for sale on them, but mostly what I remember is the Milky Way candy bar.“
— William L. Percifield
Above: Clark Campbell and a delivery truck. Huckster wagons operated as traveling general stores. Many people never needed to go into town. What they didn’t grow, they purchased from a huckster wagon. RIGHT: George Bond in Nashville, 1920. Photos by Frank M. Hohenberger, courtesy of the Brown County Historical Society.
“Everybody worked hard, men and women alike. And everybody had chores to do. I think that’s one thing that’s different then and now. The young folks, everybody had a chore. Ashes had to be carried out, kindlin’ had to be carried in, the hogs had to be fed, the eggs had to be gathered, the stock had to be fed, kindling had to be chopped, lamps had to be filled. So everybody had a job, and they didn’t have so much time to kill like the young folks do now.”
Lenore Snider Mobley Manuscript
Courtesy of Brown County Historical Society Archives
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Celebrating 30 Years of Business
A TRADITION of Excellence Awarded
2013
Top 5 Brock Dealer
Awarded
2013
A Tradition of Excellence
4814 W Old State Road 46, Greensburg, IN 812-663-4020 • 800-241-4020 www.obermeyeragrigroup.com
4814 W Old State Road 46, Greensburg, IN 812-663-4020 • 800-241-4020 www.obermeyeragrigroup.com
Top 10 Sweet Dealer