A FOODIE’S FOOD | SEEMA
DELIGHT
Azerbaijan is truly beautiful, but the cuisine is to die for TEXT AND PHOTOS BY SHARMISTHA CHAUDHURI
A DOLMA
You may have had stuffed vine leaves filled with meat and rice in various Balkan, Middle Eastern and Mediterranean countries, but no one takes it as seriously as the Azerbaijanis. Dolma comes from the Turkish word ‘dolmak,’ meaning stuffed or filled. Dolma is a stuffed vegetable (the traditional trio is tomato, aubergine and pepper called ‘Uch Baji’ or Three Sisters) that is initially hollowed and then filled with a stuffing, or a leaf (grape or cabbage) and folded with the same ingredients. The stuffing usually consists of rice, minced meat, and a variety of herbs. For a meatfree version, ask for ‘yalanchi’ (false) dolma. There are over 50 variations. Dolma-making was included in the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list in 2017 because, in Azerbaijan, the skills are transmitted from generation to generation, transcending ethnic and religious boundaries.
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zerbaijan lies at the cusp of East and West. Once a stop on the Silk Route, its traditional culture coexist peacefully with modernity, both in terms of culture and architecture. It is also a land of great natural beauty, boasting mud volcanoes, burning mountains, and ancient petroglyphs. Azerbaijan’s cuisine is equally intriguing, each region boasting local specialties and ingredients. Dishes are always served with condiments and chorek (bread), each bite a burst of flavor. The array is diverse — from hearty soups to flavored rice, char-grilled meats to stuffed vegetables, freshly caught and baked fish to caviar from the Caspian Sea. A typical meal can last hours, starting and ending with hot chay (tea). Azerbaijan may be a new country, born after the fall of the former Soviet Union (1991), one still finding its own identity, but it is a dream destination for a food lover, replete with flavors that remain a secret to the rest of the world. Some dishes you must-eat in Azerbaijan
GUTAB
Think stuffed half-moon pancakes to eat on the go. The word Gutab is derived from the Azerbaijani word for ‘layer.’ A specialty of Baku, a gutab is stuffed with cheese, vegetables, meats, or just herbs, and is best eaten with yogurt seasoned with sumac. The gutab dough is layered like a paratha and brushed with melted butter to brown on the pan.
