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TR ANSAERO
Moscow V KO
hours
The Valuables of Madrid
Mad r id M A D U N
ANNA PAPCHENKO SHAMIL GAR AEV
DIOMEDIA
MADRID PHARMACISTS, BARBERS AND LOTTERY TICKET SELLERS AS THE MAIN KEEPERS OF THE CITY’S HISTORY. A FEW YEARS AGO THE GOVERNMENT OF MADRID DECIDED NOT TO WASTE ANY MORE TIME – THEY CONCEIVED OF A PROJECT CALLED “CENTENARY ESTABLISHMENTS” AND COUNTED EVERY PLACE IN THE CITY WHERE OWNERS HAD BEEN RUNNING THE SAME BUSINESS FOR A HUNDRED OR MORE YEARS. Ever since then 63 locations around the city have been marked with a brass plate depicting their name and foundation date. Information about every one of these establishments was published in a special catalogue. The history of Madrid, Europe’s youngest capital, comprises a little less than five hundred years, so the urgency is justified. In 1561 through a whim of Spain’s Philip II a humble, but quickly expanding settling known as Magerit, situated close to the 9th-century Arab fortress the Royal Alcázar of Madrid, became the king’s residence. Since then the city was burned a number of times only to be rebuilt again according to the architectural preferences of the ruling dynasties: the House of Habsburg (XVI–XVII centuries) clustered around the Alcazar; the Bourbons (XVIII c.) constructed a royal palace instead of a bleak fortress and expanded the city beyond the
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THE QUEEN’S MOTHER PHARMACY. CALLE MAYOR, 59
old fortress wall; Napoleon’s younger brother Jose Bonaparte in five years (1808–1813) managed to tear down the majority of the city and set up a dozen squares… It is of no surprise then that Madrid’s historic center is a combination of scattered fragments from different epochs. Standing amidst them are silent and inconspicuous witnesses: old pharmacies, milliner stores and haberdasheries, butcher shops, candle and rope makers, taverns and confectioneries, barber shops and hotels.
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A CRAB EYE, CITY SLIPPERS AND A PARAFFIN HEART
The Queen’s Mother pharmacy (Calle Mayor, 59) opened in 1578. 16 years after the capital moved from Toledo, the Madrid area was none the better: no cathedral, no university, not even a decent royal palace. Soon after it was finished the palace was immediately connected to the pharmacy via an underground passage. Spanish queens, not showing much trust in court doctors, were its first regular customers dating back to the 17th century, a fact that gave the pharmacy its name. At first the secret passage was used to smuggle potions and lotions to the royal boudoir, but later, in the 19th century, famous bandits and disgraced politicians escaped the gallows via this route. These days the passage is obstructed but the interior has been preserved. Ancient ceramic jars with labels like “dried crab eye” and “juniper sawdust” glisten dimly on oak shelves. A young girl behind a carved mahogany counter looks on seriously. “Excuse me, could I talk to the owner of the place?” – I was really curious what the crab eye was for. “Sure, that’s me” she answers. Her grandfather purchased the pharmacy in 1935. Ever since the golden letters of the Queen’s Mother
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THE CASA VEGA STORE. TOLEDO, 57
CANDLE SHOP ORTEGA. TOLEDO, 43
pharmacy have shone on the Cid family. Hereditary pharmacist Mercedes Cid reluctantly replies that the drug I am interested in is a diuretic. She clearly does not appreciate idle questions, implying I had better buy something: “In Spain, according to the 1997 law pharmacies must be at least 250 meters apart. However, the law does not apply to establishments opened prior to its passage. There are three stores on these 50 squares alone. Competition is tough.” She turns her attention to an elderly man who has been buying his medicine here his whole life; just like the queens did once. Loyal customers stay true to their habits and are the core of most centenary establishments’ clientele. The most original ones, usually known only to residents,
are located around the Plaza Mayor, previously a market square. Since 1860 the Casa Vega store (Calle de Toledo, 57), whose speciality “alpargateria” could be translated from Spanish as “slipper making” (from “alpargata” – canvas slippers with a sole made of rope, traditional country footwear in Spain), sells products quite untypical for a big city: from twine and laces of all kinds to horse harness and cattle bells. “Do villagers really come to Madrid to buy bells?” I ask. “Well, if they do not sell them in villages?” Doña Carmen de la Vega shrugs her shoulders. Incidentally, she is a direct descendant of the Vega who founded the business 155 years ago. At the time it was quite convenient for the peasants from Madrid’s outskirts to purchase saddlery downtown,
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UMBRELLAS, FANS, CANES AND TIPPETS FACTORY CASA DE DIEGO. PUERTA DEL SOL, 12
GUITAR STORE JOSÉ RAMÍREZ. CALLE DE LA PAZ, 8
CLOAKS SHOP CASA SESEÑA. CALLE DE LA CRUZ, 23
which was really close – it took a quarter of an hour on a horse to reach the city center from the nearby fields. Today, people commute for an hour to get some macramé, while it takes farmers even longer. But still they come. “We are a unique store. We sell things that a lot of people need, but can’t find,” Doña Carmen says assuredly. She has been heavily involved with the store since an early age, working as a cashier, negotiating with suppliers, keeping the books and watching the front door. She breaks into a gentle smile as Vicente Simon enters the store. “A prominent designer,” she informs me in a whisper. Vicente designs packaging for sausages. To dress up black pudding the maestro selects a lackluster black cotton cord: “This will give the product a more natural look.” For the last thirty years he has been buying twines for his ‘models’ exclusively at Casa Verga. The doorbell rings again – a lady passing by broke a buckle on her shoe. Apart
from a buckle she buys a pair of alpargatas for 7 euros to get to a shoe shop. Recently alpargatas have become a trendy accessory. They are made from leather, satin and lace of various colors and styles. Nonetheless, the coolest Madrid fashionistas sport authentic and exclusive alpargatas from Casa Vega. Two blocks down the street there is an outlet offering a product just as exclusive – the candle shop Ortega (Calle de Toledo, 43). A tiny little room with a counter, behind it there is a door and behind that door is a man who, of course, goes by the name of Ortega. He uses an aluminum ladle to stir an entire vat of molten paraffin, where he soon thrusts seven wicks – as many as the number of holes in his grandfather’s apparatus. He takes it out and hangs it up to dry. If the paraffin is stuck, he will use a special spatula to split it. He then inserts the next seven wicks. And the cycle goes on. Layer by layer products of various forms and styles come out of the master’s hands. His
wife sells them in an adjacent room. Jose Manuel Ortega did not want to follow in his father and grandfather’s footsteps and make candles. He became a TV technician and repaired TV sets his whole life. But that profession went extinct much sooner than that of a candle maker. Jose Manuel turned to the vat. “How many candles do you make in a day?” I ask him. “No one counts them here. Anyway ,no more than I can,” he replies philosophically. The room his little “candle factory” occupies cannot accommodate more modern equipment, so there is no need to ponder over an upgrade. In any case, Jose Manuel has virtually no competition. Only half a century ago there were dozens of such establishments around Madrid, often set up by the side of a chapel. But since the introduction of electric altar lamps instead of candles, most went out of business. Nevertheless, devout citizens of Madrid still need these special extra large and thick candles which cannot be bought at the mall. They are used for wedding ceremonies and baptisms (a baptism candle should be anywhere from half a meter to a meter long and 15 to 30 cm in diameter) and are also lit during processions and religious holidays. For every occasion these wax “clubs” are decorated accordingly. José Manuel’s wife Sylvia does that: when there are no customers, she picks velvet paper and carves crosses out of it to stick on candles. She is also responsible for the production of paraffin hands, hearts, heads and other body parts. “When a person is sick, he should lay
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a cast of a sore organ in front of a respective saint and ask for health or just bring it as a sign of gratitude,” she says pulling a wax liver out of a box. I wonder whether there can be any competition.
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GUITARS, FANS AND COATS
Places like the ones mentioned above rarely attract the attention of tourists who have no clue a sample of authentic Madrid history could be hiding behind a modest signboard. However, there are some “old-timers” among these centenarians that draw pilgrims from all over the world. Over the centuries their products and services have turned these establishments into international brands, with people seeking them out specifically when they come to Madrid, their addresses something of a legend. One of these iconic spots is the guitar store José Ramírez (Calle de la Paz, 8), situated on the border between the royal city of the Habsburgs and
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the bohemian “neighborhood woman among them. The only of the muses” (Barrio de las innovation that she allowed Musas), a local Montmartre. herself to introduce was a Two people entered the store ban on the use of illegally in front of me. Having chosen logged wood. So now, instead a dozen instruments they lock of Brazilian the company is themselves inside the store’s using Indian rosewood. The museum which I was planning rest of the technology that to visit. “Are they going to take helps create an exemplary long?” I asked the shopkeeper. concert guitar, which has “I think they will stay until proven to be a success over we close. And will come many years, remains the tomorrow.” Despite the fact same. Amalia, thus, does not guitars of this brand sounded have to worry about either equally good in the hands of the purity and depth of the John Lennon, Mark Knopfler characteristic sound of the and Andres Segovia, each “Ramirezes” or the future of the musician meticulously tests the business. Her nephew, Jose instrument before purchasing Ramirez V (representing the it. You do need to be sure, after fifth generation of masters) all a guitar costs almost ten combines law studies at the thousand Euro. university with the guitar The current business business in the family owner, Amalia Ramirez, is workshop. His sister and he are confident in the quality of her planning to continue the family guitars – like all members of tradition – and this is the key the Ramirez craftsman dynasty to success. Allongside a lot of she personally overlooks the work too. assembly process. All the “Love of art keeps us where owners of the brand – ever we are, we do not get paid since its establishment by Jose extra for preserving historical Ramirez in 1882 – were guitar heritage. They commemorated masters and Amalia is the first us with a plate, well, thank
GRAN VÍA (LITERALLY “GREAT WAY”) IS KNOWN AS THE SPANISH BROADWAY
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THE PLAZA MAYOR IS A CENTRAL PLAZA IN THE CITY OF MADRID. IT IS RECTANGULAR IN SHAPE AND IS SURROUNDED BY THREESTORY RESIDENTIAL BUILDINGS HAVING 237 BALCONIES FACING THE PLAZA
you,” Arturo Erandio de Diego, a fifth generation master himself, together with his two brothers runs Casa de Diego, a family owned factory that produces umbrellas, fans, canes and tippets (Puerta del Sol, 12). Since 1823, the company located right in the city center, at Puerta del Sol, has been operating under the advertising slogan: “It’s going to rain tomorrow.” “I could rent this place out to a mobile operator and live like a king. But it is a matter of honor,” says Arturo as he looks with reverence at the portrait of his grandmother (naturally, pictured with a fan) hanging over the counter. He started as a twelve-year-old boy under the stewardship of his father and gradually became a skillful craftsman. The current princess of Spain fanned
THE ESTADIO SANTIAGO BERNABÉU IS AN ALLSEATER FOOTBALL STADIUM IN MADRID. IT IS OWNED BY REAL MADRID CLUB DE FÚTBOL
herself during the wedding ceremony with a fan created by Arturo himself. Two young ladies from Germany, attracted by the bright colours, laugh at the price tag: “A thousand euros for a fan!” Their interest quickly evaporates. They will probably buy a souvenir round the corner. For two. “We’re not a souvenir shop. These are exclusive handmade
goods,” Arturo says. “Royal houses all over Europe order these fans, as do simply elegant people. Once a Japanese man came in and said: I want 50 canes – ok, you can pick them up in a year and a half, I said. He was very upset and took the eight we had available at the time.” Elegant people from all over the world are not only aware
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of Diego’s canes and fans, but also cloaks by Casa Seseña (Calle de la Cruz, 23). Once an essential part of a Spaniard’s everyday outfit, today this garment is considered festive, a perfect addition to an evening dress. Wealthy Americans like to show off these handmade woolen Spanish cloaks at the Vienna Opera’s season premiere.
THE PLAZA DE CIBELES IS A SQUARE WITH A COMPLEX OF MARBLE SCULPTURES WITH FOUNTAINS THAT HAS BECOME AN ICONIC SYMBOL FOR THE CITY
Shopkeeper Marcos Seseña takes me to a tailor shop, where two aunties baste the bright red satin lining to the shell made of finest Salamanca wool. A new youth collection is on the line. It was conceived by Marcos in collaboration with a well-known fashion designer and is intended to bring the vintage cut to the younger generations.
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Not all ancient Madrid establishments were lucky enough to have devoted owners and a unique range of products. Love of traditional food helped others survive. The hard-to-achieve consistency of taste helped preserve their
and seemingly unremarkable place on the outskirts of the central Puerta del Sol. These democratic snacks might have attracted Spanish Marxists, mainly simple and poor people, to the bar, where they held their secret gatherings and in 1897 announced the birth of the Spanish Socialist Workers’ Party (the second biggest
continuity over time and their success in overcoming the fierce competition (Spain has the highest number of catering establishments per capita in the EU – one per 130 people). There were 1500 taverns, pubs and other food establishments in Madrid in 1900. Only a dozen of these still exist. Barrestaurant Casa Labra (Tetuán, 12) survived mainly because of the cod croquettes, extremely popular with the Madrid public. Two other local specialties are battered cod and tuna with tomato on a skewer, the recipes of which have not changed since 1860. Locals and tourists queue at the door of this small
political force in the country today). The cream of Madrid society assembled at the other end of this stretched square, namely at Lhardy restaurant (Carrera de San Jerónimo, 8). Besides its French gourmet cuisine, the restaurant was famous for its samovar. The owner of the establishment brought it from Russia in 1839. The Spanish don’t drink a lot of tea so the samovar was used for meat broth: ever since then it has been part of this place and each client can help himself to a cup of broth and a splash of sherry – not from a teapot but from the bottle.
FISH SNACKS, LAMBS ON A SPIT AND A SAMOVAR WITH SOUP
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| Owners of another A CLEAN SHAVE, A COMB restaurant, Sobrino del Botín AND AN IPAD People who wish to eat (Calle de Cuchilleros, 17), have in a historic restaurant on relied on traditional Castilian picturesque Kuchileros Street cuisine. The speciality of (the street housed cutlery workthis place is lamb baked on shops) usually quickly pass by a a spit on a wooden stove, neighboring establishment with which is as old as the place a striped signboard. Barber shop itself which opened in 1725. Kinze (Calle de los Cuchilleros, According to the Guinness 15) named simply “Fifteen” by Book of Records this is the oldest restaurant in the world – the number of the house it occupies, opened in 1900. The a claim challenged by other locals know the place and often honourable establishments prefer it to the trendy beauty in Austria, Germany and salons that spring up in the area. France. Still it’s not about “What is the secret of our the title, rather the baked success? We shave smoothly lamb and the unforgettable and do not spare foam,” the flan. The title of “the oldest owner of the barbershop Rafael restaurant in the world” is, of Lopez says jokingly while course, an excellent marketing snapping the scissors. “And as tool, with tourists being the soon as we get our salary – we main customers. In high immediately go to Botin.” His season a table at Botin must colleagues and customers laugh be ordered at least a month at this last crack. Southerner in advance.
Rafael has been shaving heads and chins for almost half a century, and the idea to try a different profession never crossed his mind, though, truth be told he cannot afford to drop in to the restaurant next door very often. “You could probably sell souvenirs here, which incidentally is not as hard,” I remark. “At 14 father sent me to a barber as an apprentice because I wasn’t doing well at school. I’m 69 now and this is the only thing I can do perfectly, why would I become a seller?” Rafael Lopez is sure that a smooth shave is far more
CUATRO TORRES BUSINESS AREA, SPANISH FOR “FOUR TOWERS BUSINESS AREA”, IS A BUSINESS DISTRICT LOCATED IN THE PASEO DE LA CASTELLANA IN MADRID
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LHARDY RESTAURANT. CARRERA DE SAN JERÓNIMO, 8
POSADA DEL PEINE HOTEL. CALLE POSTAS, 17
important than souvenirs. Yet the pressure of taxes and the economic crisis forces many owners to sacrifice centuries-old traditions and historic interiors in order to survive. Today nothing apart from the façade and the name reminds one of the history of Posada del Peine Hotel (Calle Postas, 17). “The Inn with a comb” was founded in 1610. At the dawn of the 17th century guests were offered this rare toiletry of the day – it was tied with a rope to the sink, so that no one pinched it. Today, to attract customers, they offer an IPad in the room and complimentary breakfast. Vintage Liqueur Shop Mariano Madrueño (Postigo de San Martín, 3) was unable to resist the influx of alcoholic beverages from around the world and now sells wine and spirits from
RESTAURANT SOBRINO DEL BOTÍN. CALLE DE LOS CUCHILLEROS, 17
BARRESTAURANT CASA LABRA. CALLE TETUAN, 12
other manufacturers rather than homemade tinctures and syrups. A former candy factory Fiestas Cerrada (Oriente, 3) now produces carnival costumes and holiday items. Not everyone is able to stay afloat. The carefully compiled list of Madrid’s “centenary establishments” is disappearing inexorably. An old cork factory is now home to a trendy bar, while the door of a tailor shop, which provided costumes and embroidered tablecloths for more than a hundred years features a note: “ Closed due to retirement. Please leave mail by the lottery stand.” The postman is not fazed by this request: there is only one lottery stand nearby “Donji Manolito’s Lottery” and it is more than a century old as well. Dona Manolito opened a lottery-selling booth in 1904
BARBER SHOP KINZE. CALLE DE LOS CUCHILLEROS, 15
and soon became famous, because apparently her tickets won more often than others. Since then, on Christmas Eve when the biggest Spanish lottery takes place locals and foreigners flock to “Manolita” hoping to pull the winning ticket. Enterprising heirs of the business founder who passed away in 1951, have been trying to distribute them on the Internet, but kilometerlong queues to the “Temple of Fortune” never cease – the Spaniards firmly believe that the winning ticket has to be picked in person. Every year owners of these centenarians stand in the queue hoping to get lucky and then maybe they can pay off debts and put the business right, so that there is something to pass on to their children.