Т Р А Н С А Э Р О №8 AUGUST
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TR ANSAERO
Moscow D M E / V KO
hours minutes
U N /
Tel Aviv TLV
SHUK AND SHOUT How to spend some quality time in Jerusalem and feed the whole family at the same time. SVETL ANA KOMISSAR
DIOMEDIA SHAMIL GAR AEV
“LOOK AT THOSE TANGERINES! EVEN MY BROTHER’S WEDDING DIDN’T HAVE ONES LIKE THESE!” Arab barkers shout. “Come in! Dvash apricots!” Incidentally, “dvash” means “honey” in Hebrew. Tomatoes, cucumbers, melons, candy, figs, apricots, dates, pineapples, kiwi, mango – Jerusalem’s market has everything. The oldest wooden counters of the city’s main grocery shuk (“market” in Hebrew) have been around since the 1920s, during which time the market’s first streets were paved – Agas (Pear) Street and Tapuach (Apple) Street. The Jerusalem market was established on an empty lot between the two neighborhoods of Mahane Yehuda and Beit Yaakov at the end of 19th century. It was first known as Shuk Beit Yaakov, but changed its name to Mahane Yehuda when
the first brick of the permanent stalls was laid on July 15, 1930. Until the 2000s the shuk remained a typical oriental bazaar, offering lower prices than the supermarkets, which at the time were few and far between anyway. Prices tended to drop towards the end of the day and many customers would come for this reason just before closing. Every penny, or rather every agora, was haggled over. The shopkeepers were reluctant to cut prices, but a masterful use of weights and scales would make up for any losses. Sellers in Jerusalem responded to an influx of immigrants from Russia in the early 1990s by quickly learning the language and soon questions like “How much are the eggs?” needed no second thought – “Ten shekels” was the answer. Unlike the Soviet markets, however, where it was a common thing, tasting fruit was not allowed here.
A multi-storied shopping mall with a parking lot, air-conditioning and separate stalls called Shukanyon was built in 2001 for the residents’ convenience. Instead of
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struggling with heavy bags customers could now use a cart, while a system of elevators took them right to their cars. Nonetheless, this kingdom of comfort lasted merely a year.
People streamed past the mall and into the market and even the possibility of a terrorist attack, higher prices and an active Arab takeover of the district would not stop them.
Т Р А Н С А Э Р О №8 AUGUST
Shukanyon was soon occupied by regular stores and offices. It seemed the shuk would never change, but the expansion of supermarkets offering a wider range of
Т Р А Н С А Э Р О №8 AUGUST
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Т Р А Н С А Э Р О №8 AUGUST
BREAD STORE OWNER AT THE MAHANE YEHUDA MARKET OR SHUK
Т Р А Н С А Э Р О №8 AUGUST
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products, payment with credit cards, parking spots, delivery service, numerous deals and loyalty programs has had its effect – the clientele became more demanding. Again, the sellers at Mahane Yehuda reacted swiftly: credit cards were introduced and food sampling was no longer frowned upon. Not so long ago two boutiques of designer clothes and bags were launched one
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Mahane Yehuda Market borders on Jaffa Road in the north, Agripas Street in the south, Beit Ya’acov Street in the west and Kiach Street in the east. The market is comprised of two main streets: Eitz HaChaim (indoor market) and Mahane Yehuda (outdoor market). These two streets are intersected by sidestreets bearing names of fruits: Afarsek (Peach) Street; Agas (Pear) Street; Egoz (Walnut) Street; Shaked (Almond) Street; Shezif (Plum) Street; Tapuach (Apple) Street; and Tut (Berry) Street.
after the other. The oriental bazaar, though taken aback at first, soon welcomed the newcomers. Cafes, restaurants, stores with beautiful tableware, ceramics and jewellery quickly followed. Halvah shops began offering various additions: poppy-seeds, chocolate, coffee. A seller wearing a crown and carrying an appetizingly decorated tray with pieces of halvah now patrols the market. Even a small tahini production
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was set up on-site. Stores with oriental spices and olive oil grew in popularity with the influx of tourists, who now prefer to shop for souvenirs here. A bakery, originally a movable counter, was one of the first little cafes to open in the market. Dough is made right in front of the customers (you can also buy it here), with more than a dozen recipes used for pastry. There is an oriental cuisine restaurant on the opposite side, popular among hummus lovers. Dishes are cooked on oil-stoves and pots with food stew throughout the day on a small fire. Another counter turned restaurant is famous for its chicken giblets – a favorite of local drivers. The main local attraction, however, is the cheese shop. This kind of variety can’t be found at any supermarket. Counters are crammed with cheese heads. People don’t mind spending the day in the queue. To help them pass the time shopkeepers offer samples of different sorts of cheese. These days every new shop at the market is decorated by an interior designer. Every inch of the property has
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Т Р А Н С А Э Р О №8 AUGUST
APPROACHING SATURDAY IS ANNOUNCED IN THE MARKET BY ULTRAORTHODOX
HALVAH SHOPS OFFER VARIOUS TASTES OF THE TRADITIONAL DESSERT
DRIED FRUITS AND NUTS ARE MIDDLE EAST’S ALLTIME SPECIALS
to make sense. In order to survive huge competition restaurants rely on specialties to distinguish them from others: kube, sushi, maklube, couscous, fish, and, of course, deserts are all on offer. What once was a typical market with fresh food has become a locals and tourists’ favorite destination. Traffic is especially heavy on Friday, which makes
moving along the lanes a real task – this is the day when musicians, street artists, tourists and residents of nearby towns descend on Mahane Yehuda to shop for Shabbat. Approaching Saturday is announced by the ultraorthodox, who walk through the stalls and shops and blow into shofar. On Saturday, when devout Jews observe Shabbat,
all trading ceases, only to get up and running again in the evening as cafes and bars open their doors. On Sunday morning a new week starts and Mahane Yehuda is ready to welcome guests again: Reminiscent of holidays, Of scented jasmine Of an old tune that rings Summoning to a feast.