Simply Sewing issue 14

27GS TO SEW

6 FLORAL GIFTS TO SEW IN 1 HOUR! Mak e me!

THIN

FRESH IDEAS WITH FABRIC

sweet appli q uÉ for spring!

ISSUE FOURTEEN ISSUE 14

PRINTED IN THE UK • £5.99

TILLY AND THE BUTTONS

exclusive bowSEW blouse ALONG!

+ PIRATE DRESS UP

CROPPED JUMPER FABRIC POUFFE

F ree patt ern inside!

PLUS JOIN THE ONLINE SEWING COMMUNITY!

Prettify your home with whimsical prints HOW TO: Darn holes in jumpers Use interfacing Make a yoga mat bag Sew with leather

Pinboard CASE CLOSED For the first time, ▼

IDEAS

INSPIRATION

Closet Case Patterns has launched in paper format in the UK. Closet Case Files is the work of ACCESSORIES WEBSITES designer Heather Lou, and the collection includes her famously flattering Ginger Jeans, plus the Nettie knit dress, Carolyn Pajamas and the Clare Coat (pictured).

The full range is available at www. backstitch.co.uk

EVENTS

STUFF

tips & tricks

NICE & NEAT

A

Photo: www.peopletree.co.uk

neatly sewn neckline is essential for a professional-looking finish, but achieving this on a v-neck dress made from thin fabrics can be tricky. First stay-stitch the neckline to reinforce it, then iron interfacing to the facing and the neckline. Fold over a 5mm hem along the edge of your neckline piece and press. Use a 5mm-wide seam to attach the facing to the dress, then topstitch it into place – I always use tacking stitches before topstitching delicate fabrics. This tip comes from www.thelaststitch.blogspot.co.uk

SHIFT RETURN

Fairtrade fashion geniuses People Tree are marking 25 years in business this year. Celebrate with their stylish collection for spring, Urban Craft, featuring fresh prints, sporty stripes and simple basics, plus accessories and Spring 2016 is the season of pastel pink,–so addwith some stuff for chaps, too. We love the versatile Astrid Shift Dress in on-trend deep blue organic cotton pair to your fabric stash now! sandals or wear with woolly tights and a cardigan on chillier days. £75. www.peopletree.co.uk Subscribe at www.simplysewingmag.com

WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM 9

Pinboard Why not sew yourself a pretty (and useful) floral backpack?

MACRAME JEWELLERY & ACCESSORIES Lucy Hopping (CICO Books, £12.99) The ultimate 1970s craft has had a 2016 revamp! This book shows you how to turn threads into on-trend accessories, including a tassel necklace and striped shopper. www.rylandpeters.com

THE GENTLE ART OF QUILT-MAKING Jane Brocket (Pavilion, £14.99) Jane’s beautiful guide is out in paperback for the first time. There are 15 inspirational patchwork projects to try, plus tips and techniques. www.pavilionbooks.com

mini profile SAMANTHA HUSSEY “Bags always fit!” rejoices Samantha Hussey, aka bag pattern designer Mrs H. “You never have to worry about them suiting you, they look great and they’re not that complicated to make.”

Samantha learned to sew at school before leaving after her GCSEs and working in various catering and retail jobs. “I would probably say that real life got in the way. When I moved to Wales as a newlywed, I started by making gifts before realising I should make my own patterns to keep my creative life fresh! This is definitely the most creative job I’ve ever had.”

The majority of her bag pattern designs have been created in order to meet a specific need. “I wrote The Nappy Bag pattern when I was expecting my daughter Elvis,” Samantha says. “I usually begin with my sketchbook, then start with the muslins and prototypes, working out pattern pieces and the construction. From there, it’s typing up the instructions, and making the bag in the pretty fabric that’ll be photographed for the step-by-steps. A new pattern can take six weeks to design.”

Ambitions include an A-list clientele. “I’d love to see actress Jennifer Lawrence carrying one Subscribe at www.simplysewingmag.com

The reversible hobo bag is an ultra versatile option.

of my bags. She’s so irreverent, she’s bound to be a fun client to make a bag for,” she enthuses, adding: “It’s worth remembering that sewing is meant to be fun and it’s ok to make a mistake. It can be overwhelming to look at a finished bag and think, gosh, I’m never going to get there, but, often, the hardest part is choosing the fabrics!”

Find Samantha and her beautiful bags at www.mrs-h.co.uk.

Samantha will be co-hosting a sewing retreat in March 2016 called Sew Brit; Bag Camp. Find details at www.sewbrit.com

THE CRAFTER’S YEAR (DK, £14.99) Never have a dull day again with this book of 80 seasonal crafty projects, including cushions, toys and bags to sew, as well as jewellery, candle-making and cookery.

You’ll have every technique mastered by the end of the year! www.dk.com

PEN TO THREAD Sarah Watson (Interweave, £17.99) Finish off your makes with a little embroidery motif or two. This book (and useful how-to guide) is packed with scribbled motifs to stitch, including a super-cute cassette tape, pizza slice and even a mini sewing machine. www.fwcommunity.com WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM 11

boutique bedroom

and so to bed

Make your bedroom a peaceful retreat with these pretty and practical matching accessories.

Designer: REBECCA REID Styling: LISA JONES Photography: JESSE WILD

18 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM

COSMETICS CASE

Stay stylish on the go and keep clutter at bay with a roomy cosmetics case. Experiment with a contrasting zip for a unique finish.

PATCHWORK CUSHION

Get to grips with self-covered buttons and use coordinating printed and plain fabrics from your stash to stitch up this sweet patchwork cushion.

MY SEWING WORLD

by Lisa Comfort

This month I’m getting ready for spring/summer and making plans for a handmade wardrobe to swoon over.

P

lanning projects is one of my favourite parts of the dressmaking process. For me there is nothing like wandering around a fabric shop, stroking all the different materials and planning a new dress in my head. I love umming and aahing about colours, sketching out designs, choosing patterns, and getting creative in the build up to making something new for my wardrobe.

As I run my own sewing and fabric haven, Sew Over It, it’s not surprising that I have built up quite a large fabric stash. When I’m buying for the shops I’ve learned to trust my taste and buy what I like; inevitably some of what I choose ends up coming home with me! My fabric stash lives in my spare room (which also doubles up as my sewing space), on shelves where I can see it and get inspired. When I’ve got projects in mind, I move the fabrics I’m planning to use next into my favourite green basket that I picked up on my travels to India last year. It sits right next to my sewing machine for easy access!

KEEPING ME INSPIRED My fabric stash is heavily influenced by my favourite country, India. I just love its vibrant colours and abundance of gorgeous materials. I visit there every year and can never resist coming home with a suitcase full to the brim with stunning fabrics, beads and ribbons.

I’m a big fan of customising my clothes to create something completely unique, and you’ll often find me stitching a favourite Indian ribbon around the hem of an Ultimate Shift Dress, or adorning a jumper neckline with some beautiful jewelled beads. I keep Sew Over It well stocked with my finds (in fact, I even took a detour to Mumbai during my honeymoon to pick some up!).

Although it’s still a bit chilly in London, I’m really excited about sewing for spring/summer 2016. Pleats are a big deal this season which is

36 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM

Find the fu ll S ew Over It pattern collection a t www.sewo verit.com “There is nothing like wandering around

a fabric shop.”

I can’t wait to add to my stash of summer fabrics.

I love sourcing beautiful trims and fabric from India.

“Like most sewing enthusiasts, I always have a queue of projects.” super exciting for me as I love wearing pleated dresses and skirts in the summer. I’m looking forward to mixing up the traditional cotton pleated skirt and making one or two in rayon to create a softer look.

Spanish influences are another great trend for this season so I’m looking for ways to incorporate long flowing skirts and pretty fluted sleeves into my wardrobe. The Eve Dress, one of our class patterns, fits the bill perfectly and is definitely on my to-sew list. I even have the fabric picked out already!

Like most sewing enthusiasts, I always have a queue of projects in my head. I’m really excited about mixing up some of our designs, hacking our patterns and trying out different details. If they go well I’d love to release some of these hacks as extra add-on pattern pieces. I’ve got lots of ideas for my favourite, the Betty Dress.

As well as planning new garments for myself, I’m constantly thinking of new ideas for Sew Over It classes and the pattern range. We’ve got two new summery dress patterns planned for this year, and a stylish springtime coat will be added to the Sew Over It class line-up soon. Watch this space!

Find out more at www.sewoverit.com

latest in A spring coat is the s line-up. the Sew Over It clas

I’m constantly dreaming up new designs for the Sew Over It sewing pattern and kit range.

The classic Eve wrap dress is the perfect summer frock.

Keeping me inspired...

India’s vibrant colours an d beautiful wildlife insp ire me.

Subscribe at www.simplysewingmag.com

I soaked up a big dose of inspiratio o hoeymon t Sri Lanka in December, but now I’m back in Lodo I’m excited abot the Vogue 100 exhibitio at the Natioal Potrait Gallery, featuring icoic photos from the past century – as a lover of vintage, I’ll be in my element!

Squin fabrics can be tricky t sew but are just to god t resist, so I’m planning a shift summer top. I love the color blue, to - my brain has goe into overdrive wth ideas!

I sew with sequins all year round!

Blue is my colour for summer 2016.

Sw alog wth

Tilly and the buttons Make your own elegant bow blouse with this exclusive pattern from Tilly and the Buttons. In part one, we’re constructing the bodice and bow collar. Let’s sew!

40 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM

new series PART ONE

Master French seams Sew neat pleats Construct a bodice Make a bow collar

Psst:our fnished

into y llybuttons s u g i Ta ics @t ingmag p e s u blo plysew ee! m i s @ and e to s v o l d ’ - we

FRESH IDEAS WITH FABRIC

workshop BLANKET STITCH

TEMPLATE DESIGN: LISA JONES; STITCHING & INSTRUCTIONS: REBECCA REID

Discover a new embroidery stitch each issue.

This month, we’re mastering blanket stitch.

Use the template on page 94 to trace the design onto fabric, and sew the words in simple backstitch.

Trace and cut out the shapes from cotton fabric and blanket stitch into place using grey thread.

1 Start stitching by bringing the needle up at 1, down at 2 and up at 3. Make sure the thread is under your needle as shown in the diagram. Make sure you keep this vertical stitch straight to make a neat right angle.

2 Gently pull the needle through the fabric to form a loop.

This completes your first stitch and you’ll find it easier to make it even and neat if you hold the thread flat on the fabric as you pull the needle through.

3 Continue stitching in this way to work a row of blanket stitches.

Keep the vertical stitches evenly spaced and all worked to the same length. The space between them should be the same as the length of the stitches.

WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM 45

Use bold blanket stitch to attach cute motifs to a girl’s dress.

Blanket stitch is a cunning way to sew appliqué motifs onto a project and add a touch of embellishment at the same time.

Rather than hiding your stitches, choose a contrasting of complementary thread shade to show them off, and make them part of your design. Turn to our guide to interfacings on page 48 to find out how to use Bondaweb to give your motif some stability, then play with thread thicknesses and colours until you achieve the effect you’re after. Get started with our blanket stitch workshop on page 45.

WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM 47

Photo: www.megannielsen.com

a good read

Wear your hobby on your T-shirt! Megan’s ‘maker’ tees are sewn in a Fairtrade workshop.

MODERN MAKER

Philanthropist and entrepreneur are just two of Megan Nielsen’s roles, and she can now add children’s pattern designer to the list.

F

or Megan Nielsen, sewing has always been very much about individual style.

“I started sewing when I was around 10 years old. Dissatisfied with my Barbie’s wardrobe, I started cutting up my own clothing and hand-sewing tiny outfits.

My mum gave me a sewing machine, taught me the basics, and helped me with my first person-sized project – a wrap skirt. I’ve been obsessed with sewing ever since.”

Megan spent her teenage years “learning to sew better and trying to create all the things I imagined I’d like to wear. I made some truly terrible garments that make me laugh now, but I’m so grateful for all the practise and the experimentation.”

Those projects, she says, helped her not 74 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM

only to improve her sewing skills, but also ensured she developed a very strong sense of her own aesthetic. “By the time my husband and I married, at least half of my wardrobe was handmade, and I was focused on increasing my expertise. Since then, the majority of my wardrobe has been self designed, and I’ve sewn everything from home décor to costumes for my kids.”

THE START OF SOMETHING SPECIAL Megan initially launched her blog in an effort to overcome homesickness after leaving Australia to live in America.

“One of the things I love about sewing is sharing your creations,” she says. “I found myself missing sharing my designs with

friends and family. My husband encouraged me to start a blog so that I could connect with other women who sewed, and friends and family back home.”

As Megan’s following grew, people began asking if they could purchase the designs her blog showcased, and in early 2010, Megan launched her own ready-towear clothing line at www.megannielsen. com. “It was an instant hit, and I found myself in an exciting time as an indie brand with more demand than I could meet!”

Megan already frequently shared tutorials on sewing techniques on her blog, and began getting requests for tutorials on how to recreate her designs. “That’s when I decided to launch my own line of sewing

a good read

Top: The new Megan Nielsen sewing app is championing a more modern way to make.

Above: Megan created a pattern collection after the success of her ready-to-wear line.

patterns, and I realised how much I enjoyed sharing my designs with sewists. It’s been incredibly satisfying to be able to design clothing that’s stylish and wearable, and also empowers other sewists to create their own garments!” These tutorials remain an important part of the appeal today, both for Megan’s customers and herself. “When I started sewing my mother taught me the basics, but didn’t really know more than that herself,” she says. “I taught myself to sew by reading books and ripping up clothing and figuring out how they were

constructed. Learning in this way took a long time and was often a hard slog, so when I had the opportunity to share my knowledge with others I couldn’t help myself. It really excites me to teach new sewing techniques and projects, and I hope that it encourages more people to make their own clothing.”

More recently, Megan launched her sewing app, taking the help she offers to an even more accessible level. “I took a self-imposed maternity leave break from designing patterns two years ago while I was pregnant

“IT’S BEEN INCREDIBLY SATISFYING TO BE ABLE TO DESIGN CLOTHING THAT’S STYLISH AND WEARABLE, AND ALSO EMPOWERS OTHER SEWISTS TO CREATE THEIR OWN GARMENTS!”

Subscribe at www.simplysewingmag.com

with my youngest child, and it gave me an amazing opportunity to observe how people use my sewing patterns,” she says. “I found that more people were trying to find ways to use their digital sewing patterns on their phones and tablets. That’s when I noticed there was a disconnect between the traditional sewing patterns we all love, and the digital world that we live in.”

The realisation inspired Megan to release an app alongside her designs. “I worked on it for over a year with my husband, who’s an app developer, and I’m thrilled with it. The response has been fantastic, and I’m always thinking of more ways to create a more modern sewing experience.” The app is available to download from www.itunes.com.

WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM 75

Refashion

top of the crops

Portia Lawrie gives a plain jumper an elegant twist with lace embellishment and a new cropped shape.

78 WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM

Refashion

Subscribe at www.simplysewingmag.com

WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM 79

S Button-up skirt Girl’s sun dress Bathroom accessories Plushie lamb toy Easy-sew rufe shirt Baby bib and cloth Quick peplum top Denim storage tubs And more...

A d a zip t a co at and wear it as a croped jacket!

+FREE!

3 fit-and-flarE drEss pattERn

Sew your own fit-and-flare dress with a fitted bodice, pleated neckline and flattering full skirt.

ON SALE THURS 24TH MARCH WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM

! h c u o t Stay in WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM

facebook.com/simplysewingmagazine

twitter.com/simplysewing_

pinterest.com/simplysewingmag

instagram.com/simplysewingmag