Simply Sewing issue 16

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Mak e me!

FRESH IDEAS WITH FABRIC

spring sti t ches for your clothes!

ISSUE SIXTEEN

SEW OVER IT PRESENTS:

Make this weekend!

JOIN THE

SEWING BEE movemenT

How the hit TV series is inspiring new sewists

THE POPPY PLAYSUIT NEW PATTERN! SEWING BEE GET THE LOOK!

+ 2 PATTERNS FROM SEWING BEE BOOK!

ISSUE 16 PRINTED IN THE UK • £5.99

Retro print accessories for your camera

* UK ONLY - RULES APPLY

HOW TO: Satin stitch Make a guitar plushie Sew with leather Cover a lampshade

Pinboard WHAT A GEM Try a new craft with ▼

INSPIRATION

EVENTS

STUFF

tips & tricks

LACE INSERTS

A

dding a lace insert is a simple way to a give your homemade garments a unique design detail.

Decide how wide and long you need your lace insert to be, then cut the lace to size, adding a seam allowance on both sides. Place the lace and the main fabric right sides together, matching the raw edges, and stitch in place. Press, then topstitch for a neat finish. Repeat for the other side. This tip comes from Elisa at Salme Patterns. See more at www.salmesewingpatterns.com

Photo: www.toa.st

IDEAS

Jewellery Maker, a TV channel and website with everything you need to start making jewellery. They’ve ACCESSORIES WEBSITES recently joined Immediate, publisher of Simply Sewing, and to celebrate they’re offering our readers a gemstone bracelet kit for free! The kit includes genuine gemstones, a Get Started DVD and booklet and free UK delivery. To claim your free kit, enter SewingJM2N at www. jewellerymaker.com/ freebie (see p63).

WEAR IT WELL

We love all of Toast’s collections, and its spring/summer designs this year are particularly gorgeous. Inspired by traditional workwear, it features hard-wearing fabrics like Japanese denim, linen and hemp.

The shapes vary from Step into the magical world of Liberty withspicy its smocks and pinafores to full skirts and stylish culottes, with a mix of deep indigo and batik prints and collection.

Dreamy! shades of saffron, cumin and madder red. We want to wear it all year round. Fromnew £139. www.toa.st Subscribe at www.simplysewingmag.com

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Pinboard Landscapes both at home and away inspire Katey’s designs.

mini profile KATEY JANE SMITH Katey Jane Smith’s passion for the design process, from the initial sketches to the final product, is what inspired her to leave her print design career behind and set up her own clothing and accessories brand.

Originally from Stroud in Gloucester, an area with a rich heritage of textile production, Katey was hooked on creating her own designs from a young age, and went on to study Textile Design for Fashion with Business Studies at the University of Brighton.

After graduating she worked in London for a print studio, where “I freelanced with lots of international high end and high street brands.

Most of my clients were in Los Angeles. I loved this work, however I longed to see every part of the design process.” After two years, she “took the bull by the horns in September 2015 to go it alone and set up my own brand.”

Her abstract prints are influenced by her travels. She says, “I am a keen traveller and have always been fascinated with traditional textiles from other cultures.” She takes her camera everywhere so she can “always photograph everything – I work a lot from photographs and find them really useful for refreshing my memory after returning home.”

As inspiration can strike at any time, she often designs on the move and “will just scribble an idea into a sketchbook. These can sometimes be just lines and shapes to work Subscribe at www.simplysewingmag.com

Katey’s collection includes clothing, accessories and yoga wear.

into later, but often I find I am drawn to the subtlety of this and leave them as they are.”

This extends to painting, too. “I also love to paint then and there. I usually use Rotring pens and watercolours.”

Her most popular design is the Sun Ray print, a watercolour and ink painting she did in Luang Prabang, Laos. She says, “In the painting, the rays of light are fighting through the clouds. This is something I found really amazing during the monsoon season in Laos, but is also something we can all relate to, that longing for sunlight.”

Katey has recently combined her love of design and yoga with a new range of hand-dyed yoga wear. As for the future, she hopes to “keep doing what I’m doing, travelling the world, continuing to be inspired and meet and work with some amazing people. Watch this space.” www.kateyjanesmith.com

Photo: Luke AR Hamblin; Model: Pippa Atkinson

Photo: Violet Green; Model: Annabelle Millar

DRESDEN CARNIVAL Yvette Marie Jones and Marian B. Gallian (C&T Publishing, £18.50) With 16 projects, four bonus variations and five colourways, this book has plenty to keep quilting fans busy. Its pages are packed with playful colour combinations and helpful quilting tips and tricks. www.ctpub.com

POMPOMANIA Christine Leech (Quadrille Publishing, £9.99) Make as many pom poms as your heart desires with this fun book. The designs include tiny pandas and watermelon slices, with no fancy equipment needed. www.quadrille.co.uk

SEWING HAPPINESS Sanae Ishida (Sasquatch Books, £14.99) Each of the 20 projects in this book have been designed to promote wellbeing, health and creativity.

Visit www.simplysewingmag.com for Sanae’s origami pillow project from the book. www.sasquatchbooks.com

SIMPLE TAILORING & ALTERATIONS J. FrancoisCampbell (GMC Publications, £14.99) Acclaimed costumier J. FrancoisCampbell’s book guides you through 10 key tailoring techniques, ranging from adding new buttons to altering a garment’s shape. www.thegmcgroup.com WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM 11

MY SEWING WORLD

by Lisa Comfort

Lisa Comfort, designer of this issue’s Poppy Playsuit pattern, shares her top tips for working with drapey fabrics.

D

on’t you just love this time of year? The start of summer is so exciting for me, not just because of the extra sunshine and higher temperatures (wishful thinking!), but also because of the opportunities to have fun with my wardrobe.

I relish the chance to inject some energy into my outfits with bright colours and bold prints.

I’m typically taken by surprise when the sun starts to shine, but this year I’ve been super prepared. My spring/summer wardrobe is all sewn up! I’m known for my love of wearing dresses in every season, and the Doris Dress (our new pattern) is definitely going to be on high rotation. My go-to for most days, dresses can be worn with or without tights, and can always be accessorised with a cardi. I find vintagestyle high-waisted cardis are perfect for my wardrobe – my favourites are from Fever London (www. feverdesigns.co.uk). I think I have one in every colour!

MY SUMMER STAPLES Mix-and-match pieces like cami tops, blouses, Ultimate Trousers and jeans feature heavily in my transitional wardrobe. I love pairing our Silk Cami pattern with my favourite jeans for a casual daytime look. For a more dressed-up vibe I might choose to wear one of my favourite Betty Dresses or sleeveless Vintage Shirt Dress. I love my tropical print Twiggy Dress (see right) for summery nights out!

Looking to the next couple of months, this issue’s Poppy Playsuit is going to be a staple for me. I designed it during a warm spell in summer one year after I realised I was lacking the perfect outfit for really hot day. With its relaxed fit, it’s super comfy to wear yet still keeps me looking stylish and put-together.

If you’ve never sewn with lightweight, drapey fabrics such as rayon, viscose or crepe before, the Poppy Playsuit is a great place to start.

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Find the fu ll S ew Over It pattern collection a t www.sewo verit.com “I love my tropical print Twiggy Dress for

summery nights out!”

I wear Ultimate Trousers with a cropped cardi for a smart day look.

The Sew Over It Silk Cami is one of my summer go-tos.

“Summer is a perfect time to mix it up with patterns and prints.”

These fabrics have a soft drape and hang beautifully, but they do have a reputation for being a bit tricky to work with (although they’re not really!). Here are my top tips for working with lightweight fabrics: ■ You can’t over-pin! Be liberal when you pin your pattern to your fabric as this will help to stop it from shifting around as you’re cutting.

■ Pre-wash your fabric. Rayon and viscose are very prone to shrinkage, so pre-washing before you sew is essential!

■ Use a finer needle than you might for cotton. I like to use a size 70 or 80 needle to prevent snagging.

gtime Nothing says sprin d jacket! like a stylish printe Find my fabric picks for this issue’s Poppy Playsuit pattern on page 34.

PICK YOUR PRINTS As well as using different fabrics, spring offers the perfect time to mix it up with patterns, prints and colours. A light jacket in a fun pattern will brighten up your whole outfit. I love my mustard floral Chloe Coat from our Intro to Coats class at Sew Over It. It can be easy to feel overwhelmed by prints, but you can still create a bold statement with colour-blocking. Mix two shades in one garment and you’re sure to stand out. One of my favourite hacks is to create the illusion of separates by using a print for the bodice and a solid colour for the shorts of a playsuit or skirt of a dress. It creates an understated look that’s still really fun and summery.

One to try if you shy away from prints!

However you express yourself in your me-mades this season, have a really lovely summer – and go on, be bold!

Keeping me inspired...

I love soaking up the sun on walks with my dog, Poppy.

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Nature plays a big role in keeping me inspired, and I try t surrond myself wth it in springtime. When the sun is shining, I stroll arond Regent’s Park admiring the beautiful fower beds o take Popy fo a walk alog the canals near my hose in Hackney. We’re lucky t have or own little rof terrace oasis, where I’ve planted lavender and bright and colorful fowers. It smells amazing and is such a lovely place t wok, o have a glass of wne in the evening.

Bright flowers on my roof terrace!

retro prints

culture club

Unleash your inner hipster with retro prints to update your space and take on your travels.

Designer: REBECCA REID Styling: LISA JONES Photography: SIMON LEES

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LENS POUCHES

Make sure you’re prepared for every photo opportunity by carrying your precious camera lenses in protective drawstring pouches, in small, medium and large sizes to fit a variety of sizes.

TRIANGLE CUSHION

Put your love of travel on show with a cushion cover sewn up in travel-inspired fabrics. The ontrend geometric triangle design means you can put three of your favourite prints on display.

Psst37: for fabric

ge Turn to pa tion, and a r i p s n i e l and sty our to share y t e g r o f t ’ don it with us u s y a l p d e fnish g ysewingma l p m i s # g n usi

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COVER STAR

the poppy playsuit

Keep cool and look stylish at the park, beach or poolside with Sew Over It’s simple-sew Poppy Playsuit pattern.

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Photo: Claire Pepper and

Laura Lewis

Photos: BBC/Love Productions/Mark Bourdillon

Photo:

Simplici

ty

Bee’s return to To celebrate The Great British Sewing of our favourite our screens, we caught up with a few erts to discover former contestants and industry exp their take on the GBSB efect.

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a good read

S

ince The Great British Sewing Bee first aired in 2013, we’ve seen a love of sewing spread across the UK. For participants it can be career-making, while for viewers it provides a reminder (as if we need it) that sewing is something to celebrate!

With judge May Martin leaving the show, this year’s series, starting 5th May, sees costume designer and co-founder of fashion label Swanky Modes, Esme Young, critiquing the sewists’ creations alongside Patrick Grant. So, what can we expect from series four? A few of our favourite former contestants and industry experts share their predictions and what the Sewing Bee Effect means to them.

in an atmosphere where everyone loves sewing and you’re all in a room sharing knowledge and tips. I learnt so much from the other contestants, as well as judges Patrick Grant and May Martin.” We love the idea of participants sharing their sewing prowess – a far cry from many televised competitions we can think of!

SHIFTING ATTITUDES Excitement about sewing has been spiralling upwards since the launch of the show. “The Sewing Bee has changed the public’s opinion of what sewing is, and who does it,” says Chinelo. “Now people see sewing as cool.

After series two aired, young people, men and women, began emailing me saying they really wanted to get into sewing. The show inspires people to give sewing a try.”

Marilyn Stevens of Butterick Co Limited and The McCall Pattern Company (butterick. mccall.com) has spotted another heartening shift: “The Great British Sewing Bee has reminded ‘lapsed’ sewers of the pleasures of home sewing – making a unique garment and achieving the perfect fit – that they might find lacking in ready-to-wear.”

Marilyn’s colleague, Brand Ambassador Wendy Gardiner, believes the programme is helping to connect sewists across the UK. “Sewing clubs are springing up around the

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PERSONAL DEVELOPMENT Chinelo Bally (www.chinelobally. wordpress.com) was on the brink of launching her career when she took part in series two. “I had begun the groundwork for my business, and the show was a great way to kick-start that. It led to my book, Freehand Fashion, being published (find it at store.pavilionbooks.com) and also added another strand to what I do, because as soon as the show aired people began asking if I teach workshops. That hadn’t occurred to me previously, but I thought, why not?”

Since winning series three, Matt Chapple co-founded www.sewwhatsnew.co.uk with his wife Gemma. The biggest impact, Gemma says, has been on their time.

“If Matt’s not working on a project for our blog or designing a sewing kit or project, then you’ll likely find him talking about it,” she exclaims. Taking part in the series has potential to lead to a wide range of opportunities, Matt tells us. “The show opens doors. From our series I know that some of us have been asked to do talks, demos, and so on. Ryan Walklett has even been working on some stage shows, which goes to show what a talented guy he is.”

Fellow series three contestant Deborah Simms (www.dfabricate.blogspot.co.uk) believes there’s plenty of personal growth to be gained from taking part. “The Bee can make you much more confident about what you can achieve as a sewist,” she says.

“Following the filming I made a plastic raincoat, something I’d always wanted but never thought to sew myself.”

For Chinelo, meeting like-minded people was a benefit. “It’s really nice to be

Photo: BBC/Love Productions/Mark Bourdillon

Photo: Butteric

k

Photos: Claire Pepper and Laura Lewis

“IT’S REALLY NICE TO BE IN AN ATMOSPHERE WHERE EVERYONE LOVES SEWING AND YOU’RE ALL IN A ROOM SHARING KNOWLEDGE AND TIPS. I LEARNT SO MUCH.”

Series three winner Matt and series two’s Chinelo have both set up sewing businesses since being on the show.

FRESH IDEAS WITH FABRIC

workshop SATIN STITCH

TEMPLATE DESIGN: LISA JONES; STITCHING & INSTRUCTIONS: REBECCA REID

Discover a new embroidery stitch each issue.

This month, we’re mastering satin stitch.

Stitch the words and stems in split stitch and the petals in running stitch. Add the daisy centres using a bold satin stitch.

Trace the template on page 96. Mount your fabric in an embroidery hoop to keep the tension even.

2 1

1 Satin stitch is one of the most popular embroidery stitches as it covers the fabric well with a smooth, even surface. It’s a versatile stitch which can be used to fit any shaped area. The stitches can be worked in any direction for a different effect.

Bring the needle up at 1 on one side of the shape then take it back down at 2 on the other side.

2 Pull the needle slowly through the

3

fabric to make the stitch. Bring the needle up again at 3 to start the next stitch and continue working in this way. Make sure the stitches are touching so that you can’t see any of the fabric beneath. Use a thick thread to do this and keep your stitches close together. Using a fine needle will help with accuracy.

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Look fresh as a daisy this spring with an embellished tee.

Be it a pretty blouse or simple cushion, we can’t resist adding embellishments to our projects – especially when spring is in full swing and colourful blooms are popping up everywhere to inspire us! We have fond memories of making daisy chains, so have stitched our own onto the neckline of a plain tee. We used white running stitch for the petals and yellow satin stitch for the centres to create a simple motif that can be sewn in an afternoon. Turn to page 47 for our satin stitch step-by-step, and practice stitching on an offcut before getting started on your tee.

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transform a tee

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UPCYCLE

transform a tee

QUICK PROJECT

making waves

Jennie Jones shows you how to add a simple-sew scallop hemline to a loose-ft top for easy summer style.

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The Rosie Dress Coastal homewares Bleached denim bag Plushie whale toy T-shirt maxi dress White wrap shirt Patchwork dog bed Baby bloomers And more...

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