Simply Sewing issue 62

UK'S NUMBER 1 SEWING MAG!

10 CHRISTMAS GIFTS TO SEW!

FRESH IDEAS S WITH WITHFA FABRIC

ISSUE SIXTY TWO

NEW PATTERN!

Gorgeous sew easy 5 made to measure wardrobe updates

PARTY DRESS IN SIZES 6-20 +EXCLUSIVE

TROUSER SET

ECO-SEWING ✓ Embroidered jeans ✓ Stitched jumper ✓ T-Shirt shopper

ISSUE 62 PRINTED IN THE UK • £7.99

21 garments, decorations and gifts to sew for Christmas

*T&Cs apply

+INSIDE: Pudding doorstop Faux fur bag Wool stocking Advent calendar

IDEAS

INSPIRATION

ACCESSORIES

WEBSITES

EVENTS

STUFF

STATE OF PLAY

Papercut Patterns’ Rubix collection is all about getting playful with patterns: designed to be mixed, matched and customised – and some even worn back-to-front – they’re versatile wardrobe-building pieces that can be styled together, with different construction details for a different look every time. Find them at www.papercutpatterns.com

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Pinboard

50 FAT QUARTER TOYS Ame Verso (£16.99, David & Charles) This celebration of handmade toys features adorable animals, handmade baby gifts and more, all sewn up using fat quarter cuts of fabric. Included are inspiring styled photographs, diagrams and templates for over 50 toys designed by the likes of Ayda Algin of Café Nohut, Mollie Johanson of Wild Olive, author Emma Hardy and founder of #GreatBritishQuilter, Sarah Ashford. www.davidandcharles.com

NO SWEAT

Cashmerette’s Tobin Sweater isn’t just any sweater: it’s got three chic variations and, as with all Cashmerette patterns, is specially designed for curves, with bodice darts and innovative cup sizing. Choose to make it with a split neck, colour-blocked sections and wide cuffs; a cowl neck and swingy high-low hem; or as a classic simple sweatshirt. See more at www.cashmerette.com

out & about

SKILLS, SHOWS & EVENTS 28 NOVEMBER-1 DECEMBER The Knitting & Stitching Show. Harrogate.

A multi-craft show, with skills-boosting demos, workshops and shopping. www. theknittingandstitchingshow.com

7 DECEMBER Hat-making workshop. Like Sew Amazing, Bristol. Explore your inner milliner with the help of expert tutor Able Mabel, AKA Emily White. www.likesewamazing.com

hAppy shopping

Online store Sew Crafty has rebranded to Samantha Claridge Studio, with a new website stocked with crafty goodies. Owner Samantha sources quality fabrics from the UK, Canada, USA, Italy, Japan and China, as well as haberdashery from Hemline, Fiskars, Gütermann, Prym and more – she’ll even choose the right thread for your fabric with her thread-match service. www.samanthaclaridgestudio.com

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13 DECEMBER Machine Doodles. Sew Confident, Glasgow.

Learn how to use your machine to sketch on fabric and get creative with coloured and variegated threads, appliqué and fabric dyes and paints. www.sewconfident.co.uk

UNTIL 1 MARCH 2020 An English Lady's Wardrobe. Walker Art Gallery, Liverpool. A display of over 70 outfits exploring style in Liverpool in the interwar years. www.liverpoolmuseums.org.uk

COSTUME AT THE NATIONAL THEATRE Aoife Monks (£24.99, National Theatre) Take a peek behind the scenes at what goes into designing and creating the unique costumes seen in National Theatre productions. Over 10,000 costumes are produced every year by the in-house team, and this beautiful book takes you through the creative process, from crafting costumes to how they are used once they're ready for the stage. shop.nationaltheatre.org.uk

QUILTS FROM TILDA’S STUDIO Tone Finnanger (£16.99, David & Charles) Make heirloom quilts in the whimsical style of Tilda, aka Tone Finnanger, with this book of 14 designs in charming Tilda prints, many with matching pillows for maximum cosiness. Motifs include teapots, fruit, flowers and more, with templates and diagrams to help you sew up your own cosy versions. www.davidandcharles.com

SARAH PAYNE’S QUILT SCHOOL Sarah Payne (£12.99, Search Press) Fancy trying patchwork, but not sure where to start? Learn how from expert Sarah Payne and this practical introduction to patchwork and quilting. Each chapter covers different projects, including quilts, cushions, tote bags and table runners, and along the way you’ll learn techniques such as appliqué, piecing blocks and curved piecing, plus handy tips on tacking, layering, quilting and binding. www.searchpress.com

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Christmas makes

MERRY MAKING

Stock up on festive prints in a classic Christmas palette and sew these merry-and-bright makes.

Designers: JESSICA ENTWISTLE Styling: LISA JONES Photography: PHILLIP SOWELS

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ADVENT CALENDAR

How many sleeps until Christmas? We'll be counting down to the big day the eco-friendly way with a personalised advent calendar we can bring out every year to fill up with mini treats.

We're hoping for haberdashery goodies in ours...

HOLLY HANGING

It's time to deck the halls with boughs of holly – handmade holly, that is! This holly hanging is so simple to sew, we might just have to make one one for every door in the house. You could easily scale it down for a matching tree decoration, too.

THE PARTY DRESS PSSTo:r fabric and

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COVER STAR

THE PARTY Dress

Swish the night away in The Party Dress, a 1950s-inspired frock with a sweetheart neckline and pretty lace overlay detail.

THE trouser set PSSTo:r fabric and

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THE trouser set

Sew a pair of staple wide-leg trousers for your capsule wardrobe, with the option to make as a jumpsuit for stylish layering.

MY SEWING WORLD

By Karoline Hughes

Karoline Hughes, aka Skandimama, hopes to help everyone find their sewing mojo with her simple projects.

W

hen I was at design school, I learned the skills of pattern-making the correct tailor's way, but I still always came back to my own method of using clothes I already had as pattern pieces – it has always been a fun and quick way to work for me. I don't think I've ever stopped sewing clothes, and mostly I use this fast and easy method to make them. I love that I can have a new piece of clothing ready to wear in a jiffy.

I want to inspire and make it possible for everybody to make their own clothes – even those who think it is too difficult and time-consuming. I have been making my own clothes since my nan gave me her old Bernina sewing machine when I was 13. It was love at first sight with that machine and then my mum's fabric stash, old tablecloths, thrift-shop bargains, or whatever I could find to sew or alter. I made new clothes by tracing the clothes I had onto fabric and changing their designs a bit every time. I remember sitting up all night to make a new dress or trousers for school. The sewing machine made so much noise, but luckily I had a very tolerant family who could still sleep through it!

See more of my Instagram @ creative projects on karoline.ska ndimama

"Making nice things for yourself or others is such a gift."

CREATIVITY FOR LIFE I worked in the fashion industry for a short while after graduating design school, but creativity did not blossom as much as I hoped in that area, and it just wasn't what I dreamt it would be. But I cannot help being creative on the side. Now I teach communication and culture studies at university and in my spare time I love being creative and working on projects. A year ago I published a sewing book in Danish with a no-pattern approach to sewing. It has made me even more focussed on sewing and improving the instructions so it is as easy as possible for beginners to start sewing. And seeing my book in bookshops and at the library is the absolute best!

I meet so many people who like the clothes I make, but who in no way think they can do it. And I am sure they can. Making nice things for yourself or others is such a gift, and I wish to help more people achieve that. There are so many easy projects to start with, and I've done lots of workshops helping beginners to find their sewing mojo. I love the happiness it brings them to unlock that creativity and make something they're really proud of.

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scarves are great d an s ic br fa ed ft Thri mmer skirts. su ed er ti g in ak m for

g the courage to "Finding give it a go is what I want to help people with."

I don't just love making clothes! I also enjoy sewing lots of new pillows for our home (my husband is sure they will one day take over the house!), and bags too.

It is also a great way to hang out with friends. I meet up with some of my girlfriends once a month and we craft, chat and drink coffee. For my last birthday I invited my friends to make clothes with me with styles from my book. It was lots of fun!

Five years ago I was diagnosed with cancer, and in that hard time and while recovering I found out how healing it can be to work with your hands. Whether it was sewing, drawing or writing, being creative was a way to cope, think happy thoughts and just feel satisfied with the joy of both the process and the outcome. In the hard times that have been in my life ever since, making has been an outlet and a way to create energy as well as a safe space. It is a great way to spend time with my daughters too. I'm blessed that they're creative.

Finding the courage to just give it a go is what I want to help people with. It is such a pleasure to make the DIYs for Simply Sewing (see my skirt on p44) and I hope it will inspire those who are waiting to begin their sewing journey. I love the process of thinking out and planning a new design, or figuring out how I can make it as simple as possible but still be true to the original idea. I know it's easy to feel overwhelmed by the measuring, tracing and cutting of pattern pieces.

My simple garment-tracing method is more intuitive.

At the moment I'm working on another book with even more designs – fuss-free and without patterns.

It will be the perfect intro for new sewists, or simply inspiration for anyone that wants to try an alternative to paper patterns. See more at www.skandimama.com

Keeping me inspired...

Sew little pur ses to use up your scraps a nd leftover trim s.

I enjoy going to my favourite thrift shops and finding retro clothes, duvet covers or tablecloths to make new stuff from. This summer my daughters and I have been living in tiered dresses made of upcycled scarves.

Secondhand fabric is also a great way to try styles in a cheap and sustainable way. I love the moment in a thrift shop when you spot a vintage set of curtains or a tablecloth with a cool retro print. It feels like such a gift.

Prints make me so happy, especially if they have a story.

Twinning is winning!

I love making matching outfits for my family.

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keep in check

Pick a soft wool in a heritage check for this classic stole, with patch pockets for added cosiness. Portia Lawrie shows you how.

NO PATTERN NEEDED!

✂

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reindeer games Dasher, Dancer, Prancer, Blitzen... whatever you decide to name Lucy Ward's playful reindeer, be sure to finish yours with a festive bow.

my favourite thing

up the volume Great British Sewing Bee winner Juliet Uzor adds drama to her projects with a statement sleeve pattern hack.

"In my early home-sewing days, this element of sewing gave me sleepless nights! In my plight to figure out how to smoothly set them in with the perfect curve, without any gathers or puckers, I mastered how they worked. Yes, I'm talking about sleeves! They're now my favourite way to transform the silhouette of any sewing pattern design.

It started after I ‘hacked’ the Coco pattern

by Tilly and the Buttons by adding dramatic bell sleeves lined with some wax fabric. When I embark on a new project now, the first thing I think about are the sleeves. Would they look good fitted or with extra fullness? Would they be better long, short or mid-length, and with a cuffed, elasticated or simple hemline?

When a decision is made, the original

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pattern gets traced onto paper, where all the fun takes place. When manipulating sleeve patterns, ‘slash and spread’ lines start at the sleeve cap, bicep level, elbow level or the hem line. But I always ensure I keep the armhole measurements equal to that of the original sleeve pattern unless I’m working on puff sleeves. I also make sure that I try the new design on muslin fabric or old bed linen prior to cutting out my main fabric.

On The Great British Sewing Bee, we dabbled in Japanese origami sewing techniques and I learnt how to make origami bamboo sleeves.

It didn't make the cut as an element of my made-to-measure garment, but I hope to incorporate it into one of my future makes."

See more at www.sewsonatural.com

S THE UL LADIES TIMATE SIZES 6HOODIE, -20

Ultimate hoodie Easy-sew tunic top Patchwork star tote Patternless midi skirt Gifts for gardeners Angel decoration Felt craft caddy Quick-sew stocking and more...

+

✓ The ultimate hoodie ✓ the tunic top

Photo: The Nani Iro Sewing Studio by Naomi Ito

PATTERNS

* CONTENTS AND GIFTS MAY VARY ACCORDING TO TERRITORY. PAPER AND FABRIC GIFTS NOT AVAILABLE WITH DIGITAL EDITIONS.

WORTH £17.98 ON SALE THURSDAY 28 NOV WWW.SIMPLYSEWINGMAG.COM