O CTOBE R 2020 OKTOBE R T H E BLO USE 2020
Enuglt si sch h || N° De N °59 59
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Fall 2020 sister-mag.com
sisterMAG 59
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EDITORIAL Starting with fall, I - Thea, take over, because as soon as September arrives and the first cool nights occur, I am in my element. I love all the fall colours and for this reason I also love sisterMAG issue 59. It‘s full of yellow and orange piles of leaves, dark green magic, and shady layouts. Just as I like it - and hopefully you do as well. Furthermore, it’s very special because our designer Ilaria Trombí appears everywhere in the magazine – on the cover and in our fashion spread.
centuries and today it appears in all possible directions - from the 1980s ruffled blouse (see page 51) to the #CottageCore Chic smock version (see page 57). In our articles you learn more about the history of the blouse and special forms such as the traditional blouse. Of course, there is a new collection for our online shop sistermagpatterns.com with beautiful oversize blazers, Bermuda shorts and 1980s padded tees. And of course – everything in the colours of fall.
This issue also shows the direction in which we have developed sisterMAG in the last few weeks and the way we want to continue: Do-it-yourself is in our blood. And so sisterMAG will move a little more towards everything DIY and handmade with each issue.
At the end of the issue we are slowly getting into the mood for the upcoming Christmas season: Our growing Christmas calendar special. The first calendar will make the heart of all sewing enthusiasts beat faster (see page 140). And over the next few weeks new Christmas calendar designs will be added. You can look forward to a creative pre-Christmas season and sharpen your scissors.
Our October 2020 issue is dedicated to one of our favorite garments: the blouse. It can be elegant, chic, cozy or sporty. The collar, sleeves and silhouette have changed umpteen times over the
your toni & thea
and the sisterMAG Team
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INHALTSVERZEICHNIS THE
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08
42
Do clothes make the language?
The 80s are back (again)! The style sind of the past are now the style statements of the present
Elisabeth Stursberg discusses proverbs and sayings
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The new sisterMAGpatterns Fall Collection
The blouse – our new patterns in the online shop We are happy about the new blouses & tops in #sisterMAGpatterns Shop
New sisterMAG sewing patterns in eShop - in the most beautiful fall colours
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sisterMAG BeautyFUL Picks
Playfur and buttoned up Blouses in art
The favourite beauty products of our sisterMAG team
Illustration: Ezbah Ali
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The enduring democracy of the blouse
Our take on fall
Tracing the history of a garment for the people
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Recipes for a fall menu
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90
130
Table of the Month
Book Column – autumnal readings
A floral autumn experience with flower school, DIY ideas and all kinds of inspiration for the autumn
Reading tips from Martina Klaric & Ira Häussler
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138
A typology of japanese materials
Special DIY Advent Calendar
Traditional craftmanship is thriving in Japan - Part 1
A growing special with our favorite Christmas calendar ideas 2020
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148
Traditional costume blouses
Imprint
As a special theme of the garment we are presenting we look at the traditional costume blouse
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Traditional Couture Folkloric clothing - viewed through the lens of fashion photographer Gregor Hohenberg. A book presentation
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CONTRIBUTORS
TEX T Lea Becker @coco_lores84
Martina Klaric @buchberuehrung
Ira Häussler Christian Näthler @iamvolta
PROO F Ira Häussler Alexander Kords kords.net
Amie McCracken amiemccracken.com
Dr. Michael Neubauer sisterMAG Team
Dr. Michael Neubauer
TRA N S LATI ON Bianca Demsa @graceholmes_interiors_couture
Ira Häussler Alexander Kords kords.net
Elisabeth Stursberg @lizziemariees
sisterMAG Team
Elisabeth Stursberg @lizziemariees
sisterMAG Team
P HO TO & VIDE O Hürriyet Bulan @botanicart
FOOD & DRI N K S Nadine Page @nadinepage1
sisterMAG Team Ezbah Ali @aliezbah
Jaclyn Locke jaclynlocke.com
Malgosia Cvetinovic @malgosiacvetinovic
sisterMAG Team Gabriela Morales Lale Tütüncübasi Thea Wittemann
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I LLU S TRATI ON
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DOWNLOADS & MULTIMEDIA
Pumpkin Pie
Ginger Molasses Snap Cookies
OU R COV E R
Lamb Dolmades
MODEL
Ilaria Trombà OUTFIT Evi Neubauer PHOTOGRAPHE Jaclyn Locke HAIR & MAKEUP Katharina Handel Many thanks to the whole
Small Placeholder Box
DIY Advent calendar
team who created our beautiful fashion spread and the new cover. Our
FEATURED SEWING PATTERNS
model Ilaria is actually our graphic designer and therefore also has a hug part in visually designing and layouting this issue.
7
59-5 OVERSIZED BL AZER
online shop.
59-4 JERSEY TOP WITH BOWS
@sistermagpatterns
5 9 -3 CO M F Y, PLE ATED BERMUDA SHORTS
pattern in the
59-1 WHITE SHIRT WITH SHOULDER PADS
embroidery as a sewing
54-1 OVERSIZE BLOUSE WITH SMOCK EMBROIDERY
her blouse with smock
57-1 JACKET WITH OVERSIZED SHOULDERS
By the way, you can find
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DO CLOTHES MAKE THE
? e g a u g n a L Text: Elisabeth Stursberg Illustration: Malgosia Cvetinovic
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A blouse is a blouse is a blouse
According to a German proverb, you can recognise a bird by its feathers. If proverbs were language’s feathers‌ what would their use reveal about us? Without metaphors, we could hardly communicate at all. Proverbs and idioms are also nearly indispensable, yet sometimes underestimated. In this column, Elisabeth Stursberg discusses why that is and why it should not be, bringing to mind many of our favourite fashion-related examples.
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blouse«, that is, feeling someone up (»jemandem an die Bluse gehen«). The origin of this expression should thus need no further explanation. But it is an excellent example of a metaphor, a linguistic image: a group of words (or a single word) intended to visualise something, or illustrate it. We perceive someone as »buttoned up«? Would »give our last shirt for someone«? Voilà. Closely related to the metaphor is the figure of speech:
IN THIS ISSUE:
theBlouse
What is a blouse? A more elegant outer garment than a simple shirt, for instance. A multifarious manifestation of female style in the traditional sense. But also: a symbol of our »official« side, as subjects in the working world – an integral part of so-called business outfits, which traditionally and in many places still rely on the combination of classic cloth pants and blouse or suit trousers and shirt/vest. One of my most sustainable blouse experiences, in which its professional appearance is masterfully countered with a case of overdrawn interpersonal awkwardness, is Loriot’s »Love in the Office« (in German: »Liebe im Büro«), a classic sketch from the seventies. For some reason, the flowy, toffee-coloured silk blouse worn by the secretary (who is played by Evelyn Hamann) has burnt itself into my memory. Besides, I can’t think of a scene that better captures the expression »going for someone’s sister-mag.com
»give our last shirt for someone«? also pictorial and often a group of words without subject. In this column we look at how proverbs and related phenomena shape our language; especially those referencing our clothes. With this fourth issue, it is time for a clarification of terms because it is not »jacket like trousers «– six of one and half a dozen of another – whether we have a proverb or a metaphor, an analogy or an expression. While not delving into the fascinating field of linguistics and semiotics, we only briefly return to the symbol (a sign par excellence), because it features so prominently in the fashion context. Example? »The Golden Fleece«, which symbolises authority and the royal. Incidentally,
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»Who forgets the first buttonhole will not succeed in buttoning up.« symbols are often the basis for slogans or claims. Is the originator known, thus, the source can be traced to someone and the message is perhaps even related to values associated with them, we might have before us what in German we like to call a »winged word«, originally a quote. The poet and artist Joachim Ringelnatz, for instance, found that »humour is the button that prevents our collars from bursting«. We are drawing nearer to the aphorism here, which tends to want to get some piece of wisdom across: »Who forgets the first buttonhole will not succeed in buttoning up« (translations by the author). This observation is from Johann Wolfgang von Goethe. Clearly, these kinds of expressions are inviting us to derive guiding principles. 11
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This also applies to the proverb. Defined in the Cambridge dictionary as »a short sentence, etc., usually known by many people, stating something commonly experienced or giving advice«, unlike the metaphor, it is an independent phrase: »Near is my shirt, but nearer is my skin«, for instance. In case of doubt or conflicting priorities, we rely on ourselves – on our own opinion, our own ambitions.
Both the proverb and the winged word are idioms; the meaning of words in a particular fixed expression is different from the meanings of each word on its own. Unlike the »winged word«, however, the proverb is self-sufficient and established; it no longer requires external validation, just some context. Do we occasionally drift into the empty phrase here? Certainly. Then we often move dangerously close even to the, oh dear, cliché: »A light shirt and a dark soul«, really?
»Near is my shirt, but nearer is my skin»
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ÂťHumour is the button that prevents our collars from burstingÂŤ. In each issue, Elisabeth Stursberg discusses proverbs and sayings related to fashion and their general qualities.
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One thing not to be missed for our new issue: our new blouse patterns in the sisterMAG Patterns Shop! Starting now you will find the sewing patterns for all the numerous blouses and tops form our past fashion shootings and sisterMAG issues in the shop. sister-mag.com
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Whether loosely falling, with voluminous puff sleeves, high-necked collars, long or shortsleeved ... we are sure – with this selection, each of you will find what you are looking for!
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14-1
This blouse with lapel collar is ideally made of cotton in a color of your choice. The blouse is sleeveless, has a collar and on the front side a button panel that allows opening and closing. On the left side there is a piped pocket above the chest. ZUM SHOP
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This embroidered velvet top with V-neck s a real eye-catcher. It is ideally made of velvet and embroidered with small flowers from an embroidery thread of your choice. Even in winter the garment can be perfectly combined to a coat.
ZUM SHOP
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48-2
This chambray blouse is - as the name suggests ideally made of chambray. It has a collar and on the front side a button panel that allows opening and closing of the garment. Above the chest there are also two pockets on the left and right. The short sleeves are slightly rolled up on both sides. ZUM SHOP
48-4
This airy, pleasantly soft blouse is ideally made from a material such as calico or other transparent dress or blouse fabrics. On the front side there is a button panel and a loose collar that can also be buttoned. The sleeves are cut wider and about three quarters of the length.
ZUM SHOP
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48-6
This fancy blouse captivates by its cut and the details. It has a wide cut collar and a button panel on the front, which is visually enhanced by high-quality pearl buttons. The sleeves cover the whole arm length and are cut like balloons. The model is suitable for everyday use as well as for more chic occasions. ZUM SHOP
50-4
This fancy blouse impresses especially by the unusual gathered frill collar covering the neck. It is sleeveless and falls further down from the chest like a babydoll. Depending on your taste, you can choose a plain or gaudy fabric for the top. On the back there is a closure with snap fasteners for easy access. ZUM SHOP
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50-5
The tiered sleeveless peplum top is the new statement top of your wardrobe. Shot for sisterMAG issue 50 it can be styled both for summer or winter. The silhouette looks like a giant babydoll and could even be elongated to a dress. We love the look of the classic pinstripe but many patterns will look lovely. ZUM SHOP
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This sewing pattern for the wide and long-sleeved blouse has a fancy cut and is rated rather medium in difficulty. This blouse is ideally made of a light blouse fabric. It has a classic shirt collar, a concealed button panel on the front and two buttons on each sleeve. It falls loose and can be combined in many ways!
ZUM SHOP
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Playful and buttoned up B L O U S E S I N A RT
In 2020, each sisterMAG issue presents a selection of more and less well-known artists. Their work features a particular piece of clothing that is also central to the issue. This time: the blouse.
A blouse is usually a shirt-like piece of clothing for the upper body. Traditionally worn by women, it is often adapted to feminine body shapes. The male version is the button-up shirt – although this separation is of course not quite current anymore, as women have started wearing men’s clothes more frequently. We’d like to introduce you to a variety of pieces of art featuring the blouse. Side note: All works show women but are painted by men.
Text: CAROLIN KRALAPP
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Pierre
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Pierre Bonnard (1864 – 1946) The oldest piece of art in this feature was painted by French post-impressionist painter Pierre Bonnard who mainly focused on domestic and private interior scenes. The woman in the painting is Andrée Terrasse, his sister and wife to composer Claude Terrasse. The very slim format of the painting is inspired by Japanese prints often called »Ukiyo-é«. Madame Terrasse is shown wearing a bright, redorange-yellow-gingham blouse while seated at the dining table with her cat, eyes on the plate. Anatomical features, colours and the subject are clearly distinguishable but not painted in detail.
Pierre Bonnard, The gingham blouse, 1892, 61 x 33 cm, Oil on canvas © RMNGrand Palais (Musée d‘Orsay) / Hervé Lewandowski
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Lovis
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Corinth 24
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Lovis Corinth (1858 – 1925)
This portrait by German impressionist Lovis Corinth shows his wife Charlotte Berend-Corinth at the age of 30 years old. She was a painter like him. Standing in their Berlin apartment, she is facing the viewer directly, making eye contact. Her brown blouse with a round neckline in black features black lace around the neck. The right side of the blouse has a vertical row of black buttons and the sleeves are adorned with lace too. Charlotte accessorised with a long, golden necklace and a brooch with a green stone fixed above the buttons, also known as cameo brooch.
Lovis Corinth, Portrait Charlotte Corinth in brown blouse, 1910, 105 x 85 cm, oil on canvas, privately owned
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Franz
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Franz Marc (1880 – 1916)
In this painting Franz Marc painted a girl with a cat in her arms, using bright colours and the expressionist style he is famous for. Even though the painting should probably be focused on the cute kitten – Marc painted many animals – we are going to take a closer look at the blouse. The deep green fabric highlights the big black statement buttons that are lined up to the high neck of the blouse. It’s not quite clear where the two subjects are but that’s also not particularly important to the painting – maybe they girl and cat are sitting in front of a curtain.
Franz Marc, Girl with cat, 1912, 71,5 x 66,5 cm, oil on canvas, Franz Marc Museum Kochel am See
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Amedeo
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Amedeo Modigliani (1884 – 1920)
An artist we only recently discovered is the Italian painter Amedeo Modigliani who was influenced by fauvism and cubism. Here, he uses his unique style to depict a girl in a spotted blouse with a slightly drooping light blue ribbon. She is sitting on a wooden chair with her hands interlinked. A striking feature: the vertically stretched proportions. African sculptures were the inspiration for the oval faces and long bodies. The features have a slightly creepy tone, as the girl’s eyes do not have pupils. The harmonious colours counteract this effect a little, but a strange feeling remains. Modigliani was surrounded by scandal during his lifetime because of his nude paintings, and he never got to experience public (or financial) appreciation of his work.
Amedeo Modigliani, Girl in Dotted Blouse, 1919, 105,2 x 72,7 cm, Barnes Foundation
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Grant
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Grant Wood (1891 – 1942)
Who knows this painting? Even though the artist and title are not well-known, most people will have seen it before – for example during the intro of the American TV show »Desperate Housewives«. The series is a portrait of rural American life during the 1930s and shows conservative people from small towns during the era of the Great Depression, an economic crisis that meant poverty and suffering for many. For this painting, the photorealistic artist Grant Wood used his sister Nan und his dentist Dr. McKeeby as models. Both protagonists have a severe, hard look on their faces. The woman is wearing a high-neck blouse with a white collar and cameo brooch that hint at a more special occasion. Next to her is her father or husband, dressed in blue overalls and a black jacket, pitchfork in hand. It is said that the subjects were not happy about the very sinister interpretation and cut off contact to the artist shortly after the painting was finished.
Grant Wood, American Gothic, 1930, 78 x 65,3 cm, oil on beaverboard, The Art Institute of Chicago
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Alberto
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Alberto Giacometti (1901 – 1966)
The youngest painting in this series is from Swiss sculptor and classical modern painter Alberto Giacometti, who here painted his wife Annette with rough brushstrokes. He dedicated several paintings to her and did many portraits of his family. Giacometti is mostly famous for his long, slim sculptures. Over the years, painting became more and more important to him as part of his process and took up a significant space in his oeuvre. He unites cubism and surrealism in all of his work and always focuses on humans. Admittedly, the blouse of his spouse is hard to distinguish – it seems to be a high-neck, pink model covered by a slightly darker pink cardigan.
Alberto Giacometti, Annette, 1961, 55 x 46 cm, oil on canvas, privately owned
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Side note: all works show women but were painted by men.
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Do you know more paintings with extravagant or interesting blouses?
Let us know! Share them on Social Media or to carolin@sister-mag.com . We are looking forward to it!
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Text: Christian Näthler
Tracing the history of a garment for the people
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The biography of the blouse is a story of swings settling in equilibrium – from peasantry to posh to class agnostic, and from male to female to androgynous. homeless. Elaine, who set up the benefit, is incensed by Jerry’s pageantry: “You‘re supposed to be a compassionate person! That cares about poor people! You look like you‘re gonna swing in on a chandelier!” She likens him to the Count of Monte Cristo, of the eponymous 1844 novel by Alexander Dumas. A more recent, sartorially fitting comparison might be the pirate Jack Sparrow.
Though the blouse has been a mostly unfamiliar entity in my life, I do have notions of the things I do not know. My personal history with it dates back about 20 years; I remember my mom trying not to burn hers with an iron. To my understanding, it is a women’s garment. But the one I remember most is the “puffy shirt” worn by Jerry Seinfeld while promoting a benefit to clothe the
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Fact is, the blouse has a more humble history. The term is loaned from the French word meaning “peasant’s smock” and appeared inexplicably in the early 19th century to describe the attire of French labourers. We know even less about the garment’s origin. Which raises the age-old philosophical thought experiment: If a blouse is worn before it is named, does it exist? What we do know is that it was neither noble, nor vogue. Certainly not pompous. If you wore a blouse at any time before the 1860s, you’d have been more likely to swing in on a beanstalk than a chandelier. Blouses were the garb on most farms and in many factories, and primarily worn by men and children. It wasn’t until the mid-19th century that it evolved from male peasantry. The modern blouse owes much of its popularity to the Italian patriot Giuseppe Garibaldi. Many people don’t know that Garibaldi led two revolutions. The first was unifying Italy, which became a republic in 1861; the second was in women’s fashion. Garibaldi dressed his guerrilla army in red blouses, proving that even in mortal combat, Italians dress to impress. In a few short years, Garibaldi went from domestic folk hero to continental style icon. The battle blouse was known as the Garibaldi shirt and was donned most notably by the French empress Eugénie de Montijo. »For a considerable time Garibaldi was the most famous man in Europe, and the red shirt, la camicia rossa, became the fashion for ladies, even outside Italy, « writes the historian Egon Friedell. sister-mag.com
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Carlo Garacci, Public domain, via Wikimedia Commons
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Europe’s moneyed class quickly gentrified the emancipated red blouse, decorating it with Victorian pomp as if making up for lost time. No longer a shirt for fighters and farmers, the bourgeois button-ups of the upper class were made from finer materials and featured lavish details like lace embroidery and collars that crept up like vines. They also came in white. Lauren Bacall with Humphrey Bogart in a classic blouse, 1950
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Glass plate negative of woman standing in garden 2020, Museum of Applied Arts & Sciences, accessed 18 October 2020, https://ma.as/379092
Simpler styles were adopted by the working classes, which were increasingly populated by women. The proletariat blouse was billowy but simple – picture a chef’s toque blanche. Meanwhile, men pledged allegiance to the clean-cut dress shirt as jobs moved from concrete to carpeted floors.
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Through the turn of the 20th
Some looked like a Jetsons sketch,
century and into the Roaring
others like structureless jazz. The
blouses
counterculture also inspired men
Twenties,
remained
ostentatious for the rich and modest for the rest. Then the Great Depression put an end to pleats and ruffles. Blouse design turned austere and, with the advent of the Second World War, more utilitarian. Sleeves tightened and necks were liberated from high collars. Picture Rosie the Riveter’s denim blouse. The ’50s were marked by the »housewife« style – neat, yet dressy enough should a dinner party break out – until things started to get wild again in the ’60s. Blouses were so ubiquitous by then that it’s impossible to claim a defining style. Everyone was wearing them, from
to get back into blouses. Usually, they were artists. Jerry Seinfeld’s pirate shirt, owing to this era, is more commonly known as a poet’s blouse. Which
brings
us
to
today.
It is impossible to define the contemporary blouse. The modern stylescape is an amalgamation of every era that came before it. We have blouses with prints, pleats and in plaid, from lace to silk and chiffon to chambray. Buttoned, without buttons, unbuttoned, buttoned up,
buttoned
down.
Peasant-
style or with cold shoulders. And,
the monochrome tide of working
with the dissolution of gendered
women to the psychedelic flower
fashion, blouses are once again for
power generation.
everyone.
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THE '80S
ARE BACK (AGAIN)! The style sins of the past are now the style statements of the present
The ’80s: Loud, gaudy, and shrill; like a clown on LSD. Michael Jackson and Madonna became style icons, Jane Fonda our fitness queen and androgynous Boy George, cult. The ’80s were like one nonstop party yet can also be argued to be the era of bad fashion taste. In all honesty, no-one ever really missed the trends of the ’80s. Or so we thought. As the latest catwalk shows prove, Post ’80s women and girls still want to have fun, and yes, even fashioneditors can get it wrong. The ’80s are well and truly back!
Text: Lea Becker sister-mag.com
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Starting with the velvet scrunchie and ending with tennis socks, your mothers‘ closet relicts are now celebrating their biggest comeback. But before you panic and run for the hills, there is one consolation. Fashion designers have avoided simple reproductions of the original and have recreated designs in modernday fabrics (bye-bye cheapo satin), casual cuts and toned down colours. There is less rave and more rara. Autumn/Winter 2020 is coming
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into age — minimalist, cool chic and elegant. Clothes for your everyday rockstar and not a one-hit wonder. And the best thing about it is, that anyone can be part of the revival. Just pick out your favourite retro pieces and combine them with your usual outfit, to become the ultimate trendsetter. We have come up with some inspirational ideas on how you can turn a once ridiculed fashion faux pas into a fresh and contemporary look.
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Neon
– Less is more Neon is unmistakably ’80s; there is no denying it. Numerous designer labels such as Marni, Balenciaga, Valentino, Oscar de la Renta or Tom Ford have made great use of the omnipresent highlighter-pen shades, including bilious green, bright orange, magenta and neon yellow. Fancy a trouser suit in
shocking pink, an ankle-length dress in glowing orange or a cascade of neon accessories from head to toe? It‘s all possible, and the perfect antidote to drab autumn days. Another tip: Combine your style with denim, black or hues of grey and turn yourself into the coolest kid on the block.
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Hairbands&Scrunchies Hair accessories were all the rage in 2019, and this year is no exception. Who can resist the opportunity to spice up their crowning glory with clips, bands and bobbles and not have to worry if it makes you look fat. So, in keeping up with this hairy phenomenon, the ’80s scrunchie was reborn. Remember the »Sex and the City« episode? Scrunchies are hairbobbles enveloped in all manner of voluminous material such as velvet,
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silk or chiffon. They are not only stylishly extravagant but also prevent hair breakage. The choices and styles are endless. Elegant in black velvet ala Julia Roberts in »Pretty Woman«, casual in blue denim, daring in animal print or polka dots or unavoidable in neon. Style your hair into a half-bun, ponytail, crimped or curled; it doesn‘t matter. The reinvented scrunchie will accessorise any coiff completely.
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Leggings Thanks to films like »Flashdance«, »Dirty Dancing« and »Footloose«, leggings were never far from the catwalk. A popular teeny combo includes an oversized cropped motto sweater and finished off with tennis socks in Adidas sandals. Not to your taste? We get it. The grownup
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version wears the same oversized sweater (with or without the motto), black leggings, sockless sneakers, an XL coat and a matching wooly hat. Overall, a casual and sporty look suitable for a visit to the supermarket, city shopping trips or dropping the kids off at school.
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Denim Denim is fashions’ eternal evergreen. Ultra skinny jeans have been replaced by wider legs, relaxed cuts and most importantly, room to breathe. Perfect examples of these ’80s favourites are Marlene trousers, elasticated waists and the mega hip mom-jeans (high waist, generous hip and thigh cut). Not always flattering,
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but comfortable and practical, nonetheless. And not forgetting, no mom-jean would be complete without a frilly blouse, a motto shirt or a cropped pullover. A sharp blazer and high heels add a touch of chic for a night out, but sneakers or edgy platform boots with a heavy-duty sole are great for during the day.
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Lurex Gold and silver threads were interwoven in all manner of ’80s clothing from coats, pullovers, tops, skirts, tights and even socks. No Lurex meant »no life« for trendsetters in the 1980s. Fast forward to the 2020s and Lurex can be seen in patterned tights that team up wonderfully
with your »little black number« and display those pins perfectly. Our tip? A black leather dress, Lurex tights and ladylike booties with a kitten heel. Then get your bling on with jewellery galore and you are all set up for the next party season.
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Oversize Blazer It‘s no surprise that the XL blazer is an essential and multi-talented piece to own this year. A masculine cut in the style of a classic man‘s jacket, this piece is still easily combined with a girly frock, jeans or a fitted full-length dress. Suit-able (get it?) for everything from business to brunch.
t the Click here to ge w the p a t te r n a n d s e 80s trend erns sistermagpatt
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White-Frilly Blouse Romance in the ’80s? Definitely! Think Boy George and the »New Romantic« subculture. Yes, his style was somewhat extravagant for a walk in the park, but with a few tweaks here and there, the white-frilly blouse
Click here to get the pattern and sew the 80s trend sistermagpattern s
has the potential to become a firm favourite. How to combine? With mom-jeans, a leather knee-length skirt, an oversized blazer or a cool trouser suit.
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Puffy Sleeves »We need volumne!« That was how most people saw the sleeve situation in the 1980s. Puffy and balloon sleeves were en vogue and, dare we say it, not always sexy. But what the heck, for the sake of style! The same goes for puff in the 2020s, and yet it’s still a difficult choice! Should it be
the blouse, sweater or dress with the sleeve-extravagance? Accentuate your billowing blouse with a simple pair of tailored trousers and the dramatic contrast will be sure to turn heads.
Click here to g et t h e p a t te r n a n d s ew t h e 80s trend sistermagpa tterns
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Click here to get the pattern and sew the 80s trend sistermagpatterns
Shoulder Pads There was something to be said about those infamous protruding shoulders in about 100% of jackets, coats, blazers and dresses during the ’80s. Feminine fashion with a masculine touch is not new. The recent boyfriend-look is a prime example, just minus the shoulder pads — until
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now. As 2020 shoulders grow wider, you don‘t even need a brand-new wardrobe to set this trend. Just grab a pair of removable shoulder pads and sew them on to your bra-straps. And voila — you can do the robot with revived ’80s shoulders.
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Sneakers Women who prefer the comfort of sneakers to sky-high Joan Collins heels will be happy to hear that the preferred shoe of comfort is back this year and next. Your money is well-
spent if you stick to the high-top cult models such as Adidas Superstar and Nike Mid 77 Vintage. Combine with a black leather dress and you are ready to go.
Belt Pouch of neck or shoulder strain. And don‘t assume that these bags are for the youngsters only. Beautiful examples can be found from renowned brands in an array of high-quality materials, including vegan.
What better way to make sure you can hold two cocktails at a party than the practical and dinky belt pouch. There will be no more lipsticks vanishing into the land of the lost and lumpy handbag. There is enough room for your essentials and no sign
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Creoles Why be drab when you can be fab? Hello ’80s jewellery! Whichever body part could be decorated with bling; it was decorated. Golden link chains, which the US hip-hop scene made popular, were just as loved as large
creoles. Funny enough, both luxury brands and fast-fashion retailers have taken to this trend right now. So, you can have the pick of both quality and fun, so why not both?
Yes, history does repeat itself and the ’80s version in 2020-21 is definitely still having fun. And it is, so, so worth it!
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Photos: Jaclyn Locke Clothes & Styling: Evi Neubauer Hair & Makeup: Katharina Handel
Handmade details, versatile Model: Ilaria garments Trombí and beautiful colours: Our newest #sisterMAGpatterns Collection is one for the ages. We‘ve put together some of our favourite patterns so far and our graphic designer Ilaria Trombí wears them beautifully. You can find all patterns for sale in our shop online: www.sistermagpatterns.com
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Smocking is an embroidery technique used to gather fabric so that it can stretch. Before elastic, smocking was commonly used in cuffs, bodices, and necklines in garments where buttons were undesirable.
The pattern features smocked embroidery at the back and the front of the blouse. It leads to an almost babydoll-like silhouette.
This and previous page : 54-1 Oversized blouse with Smock embroidery and shawl collar. Perfect to pair with pants or a shift skirt. sister-mag.com
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Smocking was used most extensively in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, but is experiencing a new high with usage in High Fashion or trends like the #CottageCore Movement
Special detail: Wide cuffs with two beautiful buttons
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We love this easy outfit with a bow top and bermudas. If you now think that this is only something for summers? Think again! On Instagram we are sharing how to wear these patterns in autumn & winter.
This page: 59-4 Jersey Top with big bows and 59-3 Comfortable bermuda pleated pants
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Fun detail: the bows can me made with any colour and add a special touch to this garment. Searching for some fun tights to pair with this bermuda? We were lucky to try out Gambettes Box – a subscription for tights – from France and are loving it. Click here to explore.
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What we love? Showing you how one pattern looks in different fabrics. This jacket was featured on the cover of #sisterMAG57 and we are now showing it in a wool fabric with beautiful buttons and embellishing outer seams.
This page: 57-1 Jacket with oversized shoulders
With a special detail: the sleeves have a sewn-in fold, which makes for a super special silhouette
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What we love: adding a little touch with a vintage brooch. You can always find beautiful ones at flea markets, vintage shops or simply search for „vintage brooch“ on etsy.com
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Nothing has been quite as popular as shoulder pads in 2020 – who would have thought? This T-Shirt was already launched a few weeks ago in our #sisterMAGpatterns shop: it is a super easy pattern made of jersey with two shoulder pads integrated. Pair it with jeans, bermudas or skirts – the possibilities are endless. We‘ve put together a lot of ideas on our Pinterest board – click below.
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And if you want to really make a colour statement: make the whole outfit in a bold tone such as this bright yellow. We love the hue that reminds us of the falling leaves in fall. What colour would you choose?
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Want to look elegant on a budget? Stay in one colour scheme – monochrome is key. Like this outfit with an airy blouse and bermudas in the same colour.
This page: 59-3 Comfortable bermuda pleated pants 08-6 Airy lightweight blouse with long sleeves Bag & shoes: Zara Socks: Falke sister-mag.com
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Ready to wear bermuda shorts in fall? We love this preppy look with high-knee socks. White from head-to-toe.
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We are all-in for Oversized blazers this year. Our new pattern can be made in lighter materials or in a thick wool for lower temperatures. Wear it open and loose or tie it with a belt from the same fabric. The oversized, attached pockets give it a more playful feel.
This page: 59-5 Oversized blazer with attached pockets
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sisterMAG
B EAU TY
Picks
ful
THIRD TIME’S A CHARM
At the sisterMAG-office we are often allowed to test out various beauty products, so it only makes sense to ask our team: »What do you use at home?« In this issue: our social media manager Lisa.
»Especially when it gets colder again, I feel like my skin needs extra care and moisture. Dry skin can be really uncomfortable, but the perfect routine supplies my skin with the right amount of care and moisture. I’ve been using these three products daily for around the past three months and I feel like I’ve finally found a perfect skincare routine for my very dry and sensitive skin. Especially the AQUALIA THERMAL eye cream by Vichy brightens up the dark circles underneath my eyes and prevents taut or itchy skin in the sensitive eye area.«
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[01] TOLERIANE Cleansing Fluid by LA ROCHE POSAY This cleanser cleanses and removes make-up carefully without irritating the skin. The glycerine also improves moisture levels. larocheposay.de
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[02] Hydro Boost Aqua Creme by Neutrogena I’ve been mainly using Neutrogena products for years because they’re so gentle on my skin, so I’ve been impatiently waiting for the release of the new Hydro Boost line. The power-duo with hyaluronic acid and trehalose keeps me moisturised all day long. Even with salty ocean water in the summer time and dry heater-air in the autumn, my skin still feels relaxed and refreshed.
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neutrogena.de
[03] AQUALIA THERMAL Eye cream by Vichy Only two drops of this eye cream revive the sensitive area around my eyes. Hyaluronic acid, caffeine and thermal water provide moisture, prevent swelling and reduce the appearance of under-eye circles and bags. vichy.de 73
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OUR TAKE ON
l l a F
Recipes | Floral School | Table Decoration & Entertaining
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Every fall we experience the phenomenon of how we suddenly thirst for cookies, beige tones and cozy Netflix series tips. October brought us colorful leaves and icy temperatures and since we cannot plan any major trips to warmer climates this year, we make the most of it and set ourselves up at home with cookies, grape leaves and pumpkin pie. On the following pages everything revolves around the »leaf«. We recommend a large bouquet of brightly coloured leaves, because it will definitely lighten up your mood!
Photos: Gabriela Morales & Hürriyet Bulan Food & Styling: Nadine Page Floral design: Hürriyet Bulan Styling: Thea Wittemann & Ilaria Trombí
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PUMPKIN PIE WITH
s e v lea
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INGREDIENTS Makes 1x20 cm pie - 8 servings 300 g all purpose flour 46 g vegetable shortening 140 g unsalted butter 1½ tsp salt 80-150 ml cold water 20 cm pie tin 1 hokkaido pumpkin plus olive oil, a star anise, a few cloves, and half of a cinnamon stick for baking
400g sweetened condensed milk 2 large eggs, plus one for eggwashing 1 tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp ground ginger ½ tsp ground nutmeg ½ tsp coriander ½ tsp salt
PREPARATION 1. Preheat the oven to 180°C. Whisk together the salt and flour and cut in the shortening on butter - you’re looking for the flour mix to appear like »fat peas on sand«. 2. Add the 80 ml cold water and mix with your hands. Continue adding, up to 150 ml cold water total until the dough just comes together. Form two disks and chill the dough while you bring together the pie filling. 3. Cut the hokkaido pumpkin in half and dress with a little olive oil, a star anise, a few cloves, and half of a cinnamon stick in each cavity. Roast for 45 minutes until softened and lightly caramelized. 4. Scoop 450g of the pumpkin (Eat the rest on its own - chefs treat!) and mash. Whisk in the remaining ingredients. 5. Roll half the dough to 3-4mm thick and line the pie crust, crimping the rim as you like. 6. Roll the rest of the dough the same way and cut out leaf shapes from it. Carve veins into the leaves with a butter knife, being careful not to cut them through.
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7. Egg wash the rim of the pie crust and the leaves and chill the leaves. 8. Fill the pie crust, leaving the leaves in the fridge and bake for 25 minutes before adding the leaves on a sheet pan on the top tray. Pull the pie when the filling has set and a knife inserted comes out clean. Pull the leaves when they’re golden brown and cooked through. 9. Decorate the pie as you wish with the leaves.
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DECORATED MOLASSES
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INGREDIENTS Makes 24 4-inch (~ 10 cm) cookies or TONS of mini cookies like ours 145 g unsalted butter, softened 150 g white sugar 1 packet vanilla sugar 210 g unsulphured molasses 1 large egg at room temperature 450 g all-purpose flour 1 tsp baking soda
½ tsp salt 1 tbsp ginger ½ tsp cardamom ½ tsp cinnamon ¼ tsp ground clove 2 cups royal icing or decorating icing of your choice
PREPARATION 1. Cream together the butter, sugars and molasses with a hand mixer until lightened and well combined. Beat in the egg. 2. Whisk the dry ingredients together and fold them into the wet ingredients. Chill for 20 minutes before rolling out. 3. Roll to about 6 mm thick and cut into pretty fall shapes 4. Decorate with royal icing as desired.
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LAMB
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INGREDIENTS Makes about 60 dolmades
300 g rice 1 onion 2 cloves garlic 500 g ground lamb 100 g walnuts 160 g golden raising 1 T sumac
1 T oregano 1 jar of grape leaves 200 g of diced tomato 0,5 L broth of your choice
Serve with feta cheese Olive oil, lemons, salt and pepper
PREPARATION 1. Small dice the onion and mince the garlic and sweat in ⅓ of the olive oil. Add the ground lamb and cook until it begins to brown. 2. Add in the rice with the sumac and oregano and toast. Remove from heat. 3. Roll the rice up , about a tablespoon and a half at a time in the grape leaves- you roll them like burritos and place them seam side down in a casserole pack them in kind of tight so that they maintain their shape in cooking. 4. Pour the diced tomato and the broth over the grape leaves and cover with some left over whole leaves. Make sure the grape leaves are covered in liquid, otherwise the rice on top will come out crunchy. 5. Cook in the oven at 180°C for 45 minutes. Dress with the rest of the olive oil, salt, pepper and lemon juice. 6. Serve them with chili flakes, and if desired feta cheese.
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A FLORAL FALL BLISS
e h t f o e l Tab h nt o M Illustrations: Ezbah Ali
After preparing the whole meal for a fall feast, we decorated a worthy fall table full of orange goodness
and with a special surprise hanging over the dining table. As DIY nerds we prepared a lot of ideas that you can make yourself for such a fall table beginning with little placecard boxes with beautiful illustrations by our own Ezbah Ali, continuing with a huge leaf wreath that you can make out of foliage and last but not least different ideas for floral bouquets that our florist HĂźrriyet Bulan prepared for you. You can find the DIY tutorials at the end of this feature. And as for the table, we‘ve curated a lot of links and decoration ideas that you can buy right now to brighten the mood during gloomy October and November days.
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e c e i p r te n e c g n i g n a Ah Okay, we know that you might not create this huge flower installation for your living room. But take it as inspiration. You can recreate a smaller version for your home. The base is simply a piece of chicken wire that is formed with clippers and by hand (don‘t forget to wear sturdy gloves for that job). Below you can see the creation process in a little timelapse:
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For our table decoration we asked florist Hürriyet Bulan for help. Her idea: a lush fall arrangement floats over the table and also flows down on one edge of the tablecloth. The flower arrangements on the table itself are very delicate: individual strands of grass and dahlias are tucked in so-called ikebana »Flower Frogs«. The small round pin cushion are hidden by apples, leaves and pinecones. The candlesticks are handmade by our grandpa, all other props can be found in the credits below:
01 Vase – Zara Home | 02 Small candle plates in Gold – BOHEI Shop Kreuzberg/ Berlin | 03 Flower Frog for flower arrangements – via japanischeprodukte.de | 04 Cutlery – Zara Home | 05 Tablecloth – via Amazon | 06 Salt shaker – Zara Home | 07 napkins – H&M Home | 08 Main plate – iitalia | 09 Smaller plate – made.com
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x o B DIY
Our place cards do not only show guests their place at the table, they are also cute boxes for small gifts like our gingerbread molasse cookies. Illustrator Ezbah Ali prepared seven different fall leaves for you:
How-to
4. Write names on box side with calligraphy pen 5. Fold boxes
1. Download the template from sister-mag.com 2. Print illustrations on sturdy paper and cut to 8x8 inches / 20x20cm 3. Trace the template for the box folding, prepare all fold lines and incisions
Tip: We used the memory keepers Gift Box Punch Board to make these boxes. The tool can be used to produce boxes in all different sizes. It is available via amazon (~23â‚Ź) 97
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School ral lo
NICART A T F O B
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A large wreath is not only during Christmas time a real eye-catcher. It can embellish the home at any time of the year. In our case, Hürriyet used a lot of fall leaves as well as dried hydrangeas and hanging amaranthus. See in the video below how @botanicart works and the XXL wreath is created.
What you need:
• •
• •
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Large wire ring, e.g. via amazon Plants, e.g. foliage, dried hydrangeas, amaranthus and everything that dries very well Floral wire & wire scissors Planting scissors
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t e u q u Bo DIY
Whether huge & luxurious or small & graceful. We wanted to bring some colour in our fall home with these flower arrangements. And that‘s what we prepared for you: From a large bouquet that would look great in the entrance area of a villa to an eye-catcher vase with a few delicate flowers. Which of these three arrangements would you choose for your home?
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What you need:
• Beautiful vases: old or new – we‘ve selected some suitable ones for you • Flowers from your trusted florist • Wire mesh/chicken wire, which is put into the vase as a ball so that the stems hold better (much more sustainable than flower foam) • Plant scissors to trim any stems and cut off excess leaves
chool al S or
NICART A T Fl O B
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The flowers
• Sunflowers • Leaves (these can already be coloured, we used green leaves here)
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P L AY T I M E L A P S E
The flowers:
• Dahlia • Ilex in orange
P L AY T I M E L A P S E
The flowers:
• Chocolate cosmos in a dark red
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A TYPOLOGY OF JAPANESE MATERIALS Traditional craftsmanship is thriving in Japan – Part I From steel to silk, paper, rice straw and bamboo to, yes, concrete: Japanese design has always put special emphasis on high quality materials and traditional manufacturing methods. Many of these are still practised today. In this typology we present some of the most important materials – and what they become.
Text: Elisabeth Stursberg
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STEEL: KITCHEN KNIVES AS OBJECTS OF DESIRE The development of Japanese kitchen knives, which are worldfamous not only among foodies, ran parallel to the continuous refinement of samurai swords – or rather, was driven by it. Ultimately, we owe this huge market to a fortunate coincidence of the forging tradition. What exactly makes Japanese knives so special? As far as their basic material, high-performance steel, is concerned, sharpness as well as sharpness retention and potential (all not the same) are among the principal parameters determined by the respective steel type’s carbon component: the more carbon, the harder the steel. And the harder the steel, the sharper the blade. A
proportion of 1.4%, as used for the popular “aogami” steel (blue paper), is already high. Note, however, that more sharpness is not automatically better; the knife’s cutting performance is also determined by parameters like blade geometry, flexibility and, last but not least, blade durability: knives with high sharpness (63 HRC to 67 HRC) suffer more quickly when used on a hard base – boards made of wood, bamboo or soft plastic are better. A lower sharpness (56-58 HRC) also means that the knife is easier to sharpen and less prone to breakage or embrasures. A stainless knife needs steel containing more chrome (around 15%), which is not standard for Japanese knives.
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SILK
SILK: Kimonos for a special occasion
Japanese silk is particularly fine and dense. It was spun by hand for centuries; only when Japan opened up to the »West« during the Meiji period, joining the race to become the most important industrial nation in the world, was silk production automated – using French technology. It was the ideal symbiosis: France had the know-how, but after an epidemic few silkworms were left; of these, Japan had more than enough. The still existent special relationship between the two countries is also based on early cooperations like this one for silk. The first »modern« Japanese silk spinning mill, in the factory sense, is located in Tomioka in the prefecture of Gunma. In 2014 UNESCO declared it a World Heritage Site. A quick side note: To produce one kimono, 2,800 to 3,000 silk worms are needed – to be despatched during the manufacturing process because they would otherwise tear a hole in their silk cocoon while leaving it.
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P A PAPER: The covering of »shōji«
In his essay »In Praise of Shadows« (1933) Tanizaki Jun‘ichirō describes the fascination: »Western paper turns away the light, while our paper seems to take it in, to envelop it gently, like the soft surface of a first snowfall. It gives off no sound when it is crumpled or folded, it is quiet and pliant to the touch as the leaf of a tree.« Longer production processes make Japanese paper types particularly resistant to tearing,
while replacing chemicals with lye makes it age-resistant – and thus popular for restoration projects. When used for »shōji«, sliding walls or windows, the paper filters and dampens the light from the outside in a way that perfectly corresponds to Japanese sensibilities – after all, the beauty of traditionally furnished interiors, according to Tanizaki Jun‘ichirō, consists in precisely a »gradation of shadows«.
PER
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RICE S T R AW RICE STRAW: More than sustainable insulation
Their core is made from highly compressed rice straw and covered in woven Igusa grass: Tatami mats are omnipresent in Japan. They absorb the sound of foodsteps, insulate the floor and are even a unit of measurement for room sizes, called »jō« (around 1.64 sqm). A traditional Japanese tea room contained 4.5 jō, whereas one regular room could hold exactly 6 tatami mats (around 10 sqm). After straw, which is produced in large quantities wherever rice is grown, has been mostly burned for a long time, a Thai company has recently realised this potential and developed a process to make paper from it.
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BAMBOO: Not a regular wood »The bamboo that bends is stronger than the oak that resists.« This summarises the practical advantages of bamboo as a craft material rather well (while giving us some life wisdom in the process). That bamboo holds a special position even among lumbers can be seen from the fact that, according to another saying, »joining wood to bamboo« is an accurate metaphor for »trying to combine something incompatible«. The
wide-ranging use of bamboo cane fills entire books, such as The use of bamboo in Japan and the catalogue of the Spörry’s bamboo collection by, you called it, Hans Spörry who, incidentally, worked as a silk inspector in Yokohama. And we have not even gone into how a walk through a bamboo forest is one of the most beautiful nature experiences ever, keyword: Sagano .
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CONCRETE sister-mag.com
CONRETE: Buildings that provide the stage for their surroundings Tadao Andō, winner of the Pritzker Prize and one of the most successful exponents of Japanese residential aesthetics in the wider world, has contributed significantly to the rehabilitation of concrete as a building material acceptable also to aesthetes. His buildings blend into their surroundings in a unique way, some are almost completely sunk into the ground, yet, miraculously, there is enough natural light coming in. »My architecture cannot be separated from nature,« he says. Only, who would have thought of concrete here? Somehow, Tadao Andō’s silky exposed concrete, structured in panels according to tatami size, becomes an amazingly effective accomplice to its surroundings thanks to his well thought out designs.
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Text:
Dr. Michael Neubauer Collage:
Thea Wittemann
National Costume Blouses Every now and then we come across a very special type of blouse in the form of the Âťtraditional blouseÂŤ. This article sheds light on what actually defines this traditional garment and how it is a distinguishing feature for people deeply rooted in their local home.
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Dr. Michael Neubauer
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German aristocrats around 16th century, man and woman
The
beginning of blouses When do we start talking about it?
When tracing the way people have dressed over the course of several centuries, there were many periods – such as the Middle Ages – when people’s style didn’t change much: simple, muted and practical colours. Whenever there were changes, they enriched the lives of people – depending on their education and class – and the landscape of fashion. With the gradual abolishment of serfdom over the course of the 17th century, the blouse was once again able to reassert its role in all its different incarnations. At the beginning of the 11th century AD, Byzantine servants were already wearing tight, unadorned tops with long sleeves and richly decorated clothes that could be called »blouses«. The blouses as we know them only came up towards the end of the Middle Ages,
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originating from the short, belt-length shape of the »Bliaud« – a kind of shirt-like overcoat worn by both sexes. From then on, the blouse took on two main purposes: it became an important part of timerelevant dressing that accompanied all sorts of trends of fashionable expression and has seen the use of various materials such as cotton, linen or silk. On the other hand, the blouse became a symbol of professional (e.g. police, fire brigade, road patrol), ideological (clubs and music groups)
Bliaud from the Middle Ages
and political (blouses worn in Germany during the Third Reich) belonging. The blouses of national costumes sit somewhere in between all of these purposes: they suggest belonging, but have also become an important fashion accessory.
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The
National Costume Blouse
What is that?
In the original sense, blouses as part of a national costume actually complete the get-up. When they were still worn every day, national costumes (especially in rural areas) told a lot about the social standing and family background of their wearers. Faith, profession, ancestry and even relationship status could be told from this piece of clothing. The blouses had to be comfortable, last a long time and were usually unadorned. More and more, the entire costume started to be associated with local cultures, so embroidery was added to express the specificities of one’s home. While the farmers in the area of Weserland preferred simple, wide-cut blouses, the ones from Brandenburg appreciated intricate lace on the sleeves. Black blouses embroidered with flowers usually came from Hessen or Lower Saxony. Blouses of national costumes also have a long tradition in places where they can be worn as an alternative to dresses – in Bavaria for example, where they can be admired at the annual Oktoberfest. In any place that has clubs dedicated to national costumes all over Germany, blouses can be seen on weddings, christenings, village fairs, traditional or ecclesiastical bank holidays to show their wearers’ dedication to their place of ancestry. Today, blouses of national costumes can also be found as part of everyday outfits again. With jeans or skirts, their manifold incarnations can make for an elegant or romantic or extravagantly fashionable outfit. Long and short sleeves accompany ruffles, round and straight necklines, high-neck or low-cut varieties and decorative buttons. The materials range from cotton, linen and silk to velvet. The
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colours are usually white but can also be dark or even black, with gingham or floral prints. The trends are moving towards tradition: light colours, high necklines with lace and banded collars, three-quarter length or short sleeves. National costumes have an important role in Europe and all over the world and always show local varieties. Very wellknown are the costumes from Hungary and countries in southeastern Europe for their intricate embroideries, colourful floral patterns in the front and around the neckline, and even on jeans. Often, blouses are now being replaced with t-shirts with the same embroideries. In Romania, people celebrate the »day of the Romanian blouse« every year on the 24th of June. On this day, Romanian women all over the world wear this costume that has become a symbol of their nation. Intricately embroidered by hand with red patterns on linen
Two young women on a balcony in Bayern, Illustration from the 19.th century
or cotton, there are no two blouses that are exactly the same. Each one is unique. The embroidered symbols are general, one for femininity and abundance for example is the rhombus. Famous designers like Yves Saint Laurent, Oscar de la Renta and Tom Ford have featured Romanian blouses in their collections. Travelling through Bosnia, Bulgaria and Macedonia, you can find similar, centuryold traditions that relate to the upkeep of national costumes.
Floral pattern from Hungary, 1909 – Internet Archive Book Image, „Hungary“
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A
last note on the topic
This is a tradition in development without historical foundation, but I still want to mention it in case anyone should be interested: If a »Dirn« (old German for girl) ties her apron on the front right, she is taken, engaged or married, on the front left means that she’s still free and tied in the centre in the back means that she is a widow. It’s good to know this even though you can’t always rely on it – after all, we’re only looking at blouses here!
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Folkloric clothin Š Photo Gregor Hohenberg, Traditional Couture, gestalten 2015 sister-mag.com
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FOLKLORIC CLOTHING Viewed through the lens of fashion photographer Gregor Hohenberg - an exciting experiment that, in the book »Traditional Couture« , published 2015 by the publishing house gestalten, takes a completely new look at the traditional, folkloric clothing. Text: Toni Sutter
Editors: Gestalten, Gregor Hohenberg, Annett Hohenberg Photography by Gregor Hohenberg, Release date: April 2015 Format: 24.5 × 33 cm, Features: Full color, hardcover, 320 pages, ISBN: 978-3-89955-572-1, Price: € 49.90
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Š Photo Gregor Hohenberg, Traditional Couture, gestalten 2015 sister-mag.com
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With his trained eye he manages to capture the wonderful details of these distinctive garments, the complicated tailoring, the wealth of details, the high level of craftsmanship and thus shows that traditional clothing is essentially haute couture – high quality fabrics and elaborate workmanship
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that are otherwise only found today in this highest form of fashion. The book also shows how important clothing is for preserving traditions and the sense of belonging in a region. At the same time, traditional couture continues to inspire fashion designers to come up with new designs. Past present - future united.
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Š Photo Gregor Hohenberg, Traditional Couture, gestalten 2015
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Š Photo Gregor Hohenberg, Traditional Couture, gestalten 2015 sister-mag.com
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Š Photo Gregor Hohenberg, Traditional Couture, gestalten 2015
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BOOK COLUMN
Autumnal reading Fall has arrived – and with it, the cosy time of the year where you can snuggle up with a warm blanket and a good book. Martina Klaric and Ira Häussler have picked four more great books that match the theme of our issue. There are ones about fair fashion, the famous Supreme Court justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg, letters between Rainer Maria Rilke and Franz Xaver Kappus and a story of a young girl in 1960s Paris. Enjoy!
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Tip from Ira Häussler By Lauren Bravo, published 9 March 2020 by Hachette UK (304 pages), ISBN: 978-1472267740, €14,00
HOW T O BREAK U P W I T H FA S T
FA S H I O N
A guilt-free guide to changing the way you shop – for good Fashion is power. Fashion is politics. Fashion is more than clothes. Some may have known this all along, others only begin to see it now: Clothes are directly related to identity and are an expressive status symbol. The textile industries have used this and have advanced to a globally powerful and lucrative production mechanism that is only about three things: cheaper, more and even more. Nowadays, the term »Fast Fashion« is used to describe this destructive development of the industry that produces throwaway clothes under inhumane conditions. The repercussions of it are now known, but how to handle the problem is
still unclear. In »How To Break Up With Fast Fashion«, Lauren Bravo offers a witty yet insightful guide into changing the current culture of wasting fashion. The result is a gorgeous book of advice based on facts that, among other things, helps you to repair and recycle your clothes and update your wardrobe without contributing to the harmful repercussions of the fast fashion industry. This book can help guide anyone interested through the sometimes-confusing world of sustainable fashion and will make you feel good about the clothes you choose to put on your body again!
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Tip from Martina Klaric Edited by Helena Hunt, published 10 April 2018 by Agate B2 (336 pages), ISBN: 978-1572842496, €10,00
The right for our own decisions and equality of the sexes! Ruth Bader Ginsburg became famous for her relentless fight for women’s rights. Her signature piece of clothing – matching the theme of this issue – was an iconic blouse with an opulent collar that showed off her immaculate posture. The most famous justice in the world recently passed away, but her words and work live on. Her sharp wit, humour and impeccable courage remain unforgotten. The little book »Ruth Bader Ginsburg: In her own words«
RUTH BADER
GINSBURG: IN HER OWN WORDS
is a great collection of quotes that reflects Ginsburg’s attitude towards justice, women and the world. And the reader gets to know her as a person who always knew to say the right thing at the right time. »Of course safety is important , «one quote reads, »but we have to protect each individual’s right to freedom. If we don’t, we are no better than the powers against which we fight. «There’s only one thing left to say: Thank you, Ruth Bader Ginsburg!
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LETTERS TO A
YOUNG POET
Tip from Ira Häussler Rainer Maria Rilke and Franz Xaver Kappus, translated by Charlie Louth, published 25 March 2014 by Penguin Random House (112 pages), ISBN: 9780141192321, €12,00
Buy now
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Between 1903 and 1908, Rainer Maria Rilke exchanged a number of letters with an aspiring young poet named Franz Xaver Kappus. Over 100 years later, the beautiful advice contained in these personal lines still rings true: Dealing with everything from love and work to passion and the true meaning of life, Rilke’s writing is timelessly comforting on days when the modern world we currently live in seems nothing but chaotic. Of course, the little book also features some not-so-timely views on gender among other things, but considering the temporal space we have from its origins, it is nonetheless easy to enjoy Rilke’s poetic optimism towards every question young Kappus has for him. The short letters make for a quick read while achieving what only great writing does: They make a time that seems so different and so far away feel incredibly close, showing that we as humans are really all so similar. What more could you want in times of social distancing?
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Tip from Martina Klaric By Patrick Modiano, published 12 January 2017 by MacLehose Press (192 pages), ISBN: 978-0857055286, €10,60
Buy now
IN THE CAFÉ
OF LOST YOUTH His books are indisputable classics of world literate – not only because of French author Patrick Modiano’s 2014 Nobel prize win. »In the café of lost youth« can only be described as the pearl of his oeuvre. With typical French melancholy, the novel tells the story of young Louki, a girl in 1960s Paris. Every line that describes her fleeing into self-determination in the search for true love is imbued with a passion for life that inspires and will seep into your senses. A touching story that is told with French esprit by Modiano and ultimately shows what literature really is: a space for parallel worlds that don’t only reflect but make reality.
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WE LOVE
Advent calendar A growing special with our favorite Christmas calendar ideas 2020
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WE START WITH
O U R S I S T E R M AG PAT T E R N S CHRISTMAS CALENDAR with illustrated vintage-style crackers for sewing lovers AND THEN WE CONTINUE WITH
WINTER WOOD TREE with sewn snowball bags Launches week 44 on October, 28th
Timetable CHRISTMAS CALENDAR FOR B AU B L E L OV E R S for DIY grouches Launches week 45 on November, 4th
LAST-MINUTE CHRISTMAS CALENDAR WITH ENVELOPES for poets & thinkers Launches week 46 on November, 11th
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Vintage crackers
one
Adventsk Download
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These cute crackers hide the Christmas calendar for all sewing and embroidery enthusiasts. We dedicated it to our new online shop for sewing patterns @sistermagpatterns, because since the summer everything revolves around sewing patterns, sewing and textile design for us. For all of you who feel the same way, we have this special goodie: In the shop sistermagpatterns.com you can download the template for the Christmas calendar including the beautiful vintage illustrations. The crackers are easily made. And the We R Memory Keepers Candy Box Punch Board that we used makes it even easier.
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What you need? Ƿ Paper with ca. 140g/m2, particularly beautiful with structure, e.g. sketch pads in A4 Ƿ Inkjet printer to print out the illustrations Ƿ We R Memory Keepers Candy Box Punch Board or pattern by sisterMAG Ƿ Scissors & folding stick Ƿ for filling & closing: tissue paper and rope
Instructions 1. Print out illustrations 2. Cut off the unprinted margins (best with a cutting machine or cutter / ruler) You can easily determine the size with the punch board. Follow the instructions in the manual. 3. Without the punch board: Trace the template for the crackers on the back of the print out and cut out the outer lines with a pair of scissors. 4. Cut out all the inner parts with a cutter. Use the folding stick to mark the fold lines 5. Put the glue on the glue flap and glue the crackers together. 6. Let dry. Then pull them carefully apart and close one side with a piece of rope. Fill in the little gifts and close the second side. The ends of the crackers remain quite open, so it is advisable to use tissue paper for filling.
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Winter wood tree
two
Advent c Download coming soon
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You can experience our winter wood tree in the magazine already from week 44. Follow us on social media, so that you stay up-to-date and don‘t miss the new instructions.
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PARTNER
2020
AU G
ALEX
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is published digital on sister-mag.com
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CONTENT
TH E A Chief Editor & Design
C ARO L IN Content Distribution
THE R E SA Content Management
SOP H IA Content Management
DESIGN & CREATION
E VI
C H R I ST I NA Content Management
LI SA
Fashion
MARIE
Social Media
Design & Creation
IL ARIA
NO R ELL
Design & Creation
Social Media
M AR I E LU I S E
L ALE Video & Design
GA B I Photo & Design
E ZBA H Design & Illustration
M A LG O SI A
Social Media
Design & Illustration
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IMPRINT
SISTERMAG – JOURNAL FOR THE DIGITAL LADY www.sister-mag.com Chief editor Operations
Theresa Neubauer, Antonia Sutter Lisa Bagdadjan, Theresa Baier, Carolin Kralapp, Christina Rücker, Marie Luise Ruf, Norell Sanatpour, Sophia Werner
Fashion
Eva-Maria Neubauer (Fashion Dir.)
Design
Theresa Neubauer (Art Dir.), Ezbah Ali, Malgosia Cvetinovic,Marie Darme, Gabriela Morales, Lale Tütüncübaşı, Ilaria Trombí
Contributing editors (Text)
Lea Becker, Ira Häussler, Martina Klaric, Christian Näthler, Dr. Michael Neubauer, Elisabeth Stursberg, sisterMAG Team
Contributing editors (Photo & Video) Translation Proof
Hürriyet Bulan, Jaclyn Locke, sisterMAG Team
Bianca Demsa, Ira Häussler, Alexander Kords, Elisabeth Stursberg, sisterMAG Team Ira Häussler, Alexander Kords, Amie McCracken, Dr. Michael Neubauer, sisterMAG Team
Published by Carry-On Publishing GmbH, Gustav-Meyer-Allee 25, 13355 Berlin, Germany. Re-use of content is only allowed with written permission of the publisher. There is no liability for unsolicited manuscripts and photographs. The Carry-On Publishing GmbH assumes no liability or guarantee for the accuracy, currency and completeness of the information provided. All information is provided without warranty. Contact: mail@sister-mag.com Management
Antonia Sutter, Theresa Neubauer, Alex Sutter
Sales
Alex Sutter (Sales Dir.)
Marketing
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Antonia Sutter (Marketing Dir.)
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N E X T ISSU E I N N OVEM BER FO L LOW U S ON IN STAGRA M TO D I SC OV ER MORE!
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