sisterMAG Issue 18 by sisterMAG

#sisterMAG18 2

Illustration: Georgie St. Clair sister-mag.com

BUG. BEE. BUTTERFLY.

BUG

6 12 16

Editorial

Contributor Index

Multimedia and Download Index

Bug & Bee Products, curated by sisterMAG

sisterMAG Fashion Shooting: Spring Outfits for 10-20°C

319 318 Imprint

Outlook: #sisterMAG19

BEE

BUTTERFLY

114

Apple vs. Pineapple

Bossy Brows

The Global Local Food Trend by Cathrin Brandes

History of the female brow

122

Local Food

Beauty Brows

A Field Report by Christie Dietz

Beauty-Shooting with brows and beautiful eyes

City Bees – Tales of an Urban Beekeeper

Honey Blogger Beehive Recipe Blogger Feature

Design Tour in Berlin with the new Mazda2

Startup Spotlight: WirNachbarn.com

100

9 Questions for Kathrin from Gebrüder Fritz

146

Brow Tutorial with Maybelline 2-in-1 Browsatin

154

Butterfly Effect An observation by Alexander Kords

160

Design in Scent Interview with founder Gemma Hopkins

172

DIY Moths Moths made out of cloths to sew yourself

#sisterMAG18

Illustration: Georgie St. Clair sister-mag.com

BUG. BEE. BUTTERFLY.

LADYBIRD

182

All You Need Is Sleep – Sleep Special

198

Sleep Questions with Prof. Dr. med. Ingo Fietze

202

EARTHWORM

216

Info Feature – Root Vegetables & Asparagus

229

Asparagus Recipes for spring

246

Sleep Hacks

On the map: Portland

Tips for a good night's sleep

Portland Locals Carly Diaz and Linnea Paulina visit the city with us

204

Startup Spotlight: Northcube (Sleep Cycle)

208

260

Fresh from Portland Recipes by Christiann Koepke (Portlandfresh)

270

Sleeping Raves – The early bird dances

A Wonderland where the 90s are still alive

Morning parties – visited by Elisa von Hof

A Review of the Hipster persiflage »Portlandia«

FLY

282

SCANNED An introduction to this topic by Gudy Herder

288

The Art of X-Ray from Bryan Whitney

296

Interview with X-Ray Photographer Robert Coop

300

Table of the Month

308

Wearables

Wearable electronics: Elektro Couture from Lisa Lang

276

Startup Spotlight Happystaffy.me

Issue 18 | April 2015

I N S TA G R A M

For our fashion feature we ventured out to the Biosphere in Potsdam. Thanks for having us! 6

Founders Thea & Toni

Editorial by Thea

Dear readers,

When I sat down to write my message Marketing & PR (WELCOME, LUISA!) to you, dear readers, a couple of days was so excited to start her new role ago, Toni requested I dispense with that she woke up at six every morning my usual observation of how much and regularly got to the office before has changed in the office. This seems anyone else. She now has her own to have become a habit of mine and key. An obvious and possibly the since I try not to disagree with my big only solution given that the rest of us were suffering from the opposite sister (when she is right) I am instead condition: acute springtime lethargy. making a point of letting you know how Whether this is due to the constant much I have come to appreciate the change in weather from summer-like daily routine which has established temperatures to ice storms and back itself at the sisterMAG office. or the huge amounts of work involved For one, we have all agreed on when in launching a new issue is anyone’s we start work in the morning – Luisa, guess. Today, however, we went and our newest employee, responsible for had ice cream as part of an official CREDITS FOTOS

AL = Ashley Ludäscher

TN = Thea Neubauer

CS = Cristopher Santos SS = Susanne Schanz

DP = Diana Patient

BUG. BEE. BUTTERFLY.

Short coffee break during the beauty shoot with Annabell

Recipes for the upcoming asparagus season

Bug.Bee.Butterfly.

Coffee and the paper as a morning ritual: photos from our shoot in London for the »lady bird« section on sleep

office outing - our way of officially completing the section themes. The welcoming spring.

feedback on this topic choice was

the quiet varied: Our co-founder Alex had »Ladybird« section (in the dead of to combat violent fits of laughter and night) it occurred to me that I might clearly thought his girls had lost their Researching

articles

for

be making just about every mistake marbles. But after some explaining you can make if you want to get »a about the thoughts behind it, like good night’s sleep«! We have however the beautiful photo shooting with still managed to compile a wonderful butterflies , the info feature on root selection of helpful tips for better vegetables in the earthworm section, sleep . We have had an especially or the closer look on urban trends like good time developing new features »neighbourhood« and »local food« with our partners at Maybelline and in the bee section our contributors, Mazda, focusing on this months’ topic: readers and partners were excited to insects, with Beetle, Bee and Butterfly get on-board.

Issue 18 | April 2015

Evi Neubauer and Sandra Rothfeld during N at al ia at th e sh oo t the fashion shoot at the Biosphere Potsdam in th e Bi os ph er e Po ts da m 8

Alice Williamson’s illustration shows how a 1920s dress can make even an earthworm look elegant. In fact we were so taken with our own section pages

we developed

a special goodie for you: just like in the last issue you can easily share your favourite picture or feature or even your own thoughts on the topics via Twitter, Instagram, email or Facebook. Please do so publicly using #sisterMAG18. As a special thank you gift the first 50 sharers will receive a mouse pad featuring this issue’s illustrations!

»Judging by Instagram you’re working 24/7« is one comment I got from an acquaintance I happened to run into getting a take-away coffee on my way to the office to do some layouts last Saturday. It’s true; we all put a lot of work (and a decent amount of blood, sweat and tears) into each new sisterMAG issue. We always do our shootings at the weekend because even three years in we are sticking with our resolution not to use professional models. We want to feature ‘real women’ who embody the picture we have of our sisterMAG readers. And these women work during the week.

But back to the daily routine: I get

This time we managed to lure Jessi

asked a lot whether I work too much.

from Törtchenzeit to Berlin for a day.

sister-mag.com

Our n

BUG. BEE. BUTTERFLY.

neighbourhood: BERLIN

DIY moths made from different fabrics

You saw her on the cover, and she is also part of the Mazda Design Tour all through Berlin - she is just as fabulous as she looks! We have also finally had the pleasure to meet the equally fabulous Natalia whose calligraphies we have been admiring on Instagram (@milia_ink ) for a long time. Starting on here she is modelling our new sisterMAG collection of spring fashion specially designed for temperatures between 10° and 20°C (50° - 70°F), nicely picking up the topic of the unpredictable weather mentioned earlier. Don’t worry we have got you covered with patters for any weather. But I can take an extensive workload! In fact I feel privileged to be able to go

Real butterflies in the butterfly house, Biosphere Potsdam to work with friends and other great people every day. Our shootings in fact often feel more like just spending the day with your friends. More than 40 people have contributed to this issue many of whom have become part of the #sisterMAGfamily. Nina spent two weeks at our Berlin office on a student work experience program and since March we have also had another new intern, Ira. After the inevitable discussion of the most important news of any new morning (which exciting YouTubers have uploaded new videos, which blog has a new worth-while post, who did what last night, who’s got a new boyfriend…hehe), we get

Issue 18 | April 2015

lavender by »Hint of Vanilla« 10

Patricia is touching-up Jessi during the cover shoot

to work. The latest sisterMAG issue boasts a solid 350 pages and if you’re wondering how we manage to source this much content in just 4 to 6 weeks? So do we - sometimes! But we make the issues purposefully hefty as we want each reader to be able to pick the topics she cares about. And you’ve got two months to peruse each sisterMAG at your leisure until the next one – so there is always enough time to read it all. Note: If you want to get a summary of what the issue has in store you can use the aptly named »skip« buttons to skip through the entire issue in just a few clicks. Each click will take you to the first page of the next article.

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Co ve r- St yl in g: Pa tr ic ia He ck I would like to take the chance to thank two women without whom this issue would not have been possible and whom I also consider my role models. I met Gudy Herder – a trend researcher from Barcelona – at a blogger conference a couple of years back (see this blog post). At a seminar last year she presented some trends to us that she sees emerging over the next few years, visually as well as with regards to content. One of them is a range of topics that can be summarized by the term »SCANNED«. We’ve dedicated a good portion of our »Fly« section to it. Gudy will tell you what this trend is all about from here . She is also the one responsible for this issue’s »Table

BUG. BEE. BUTTERFLY.

We are visiting Gebrüder Fritz, a new location in Berlin

Blogger feature with honey recipes

of the Month« and her creation really floored us: conceptually designed with ceramics from her own manufactory. Make sure you check out the »Making Off« shot on Instagram and you will understand why Gudy refers to photographer Kike Jean as the »Master of Light«. The second woman is our mother. With each and every new issue she manages to surprise us with her new and very modern ideas for patterns and the cover design. Now she has directed her first shooting bossing a small team around the jungle of Biosphere Potsdam. It’s time to expressly thank her again for her tireless dedication and

commitment to sisterMAG (as you are reading this she’s already designing new dresses for #sisterMAG19), her flair for fashion trends, her enormous wealth of knowledge about colours and patterns and her moral support after we’ve pulled another all-nighter at the office. We hope this issue will inspire you in an equal manner! It offers reading material galore plus quite a few things to try out yourselves.

Toni, Thea & the continuously growing sisterMAG Team

Befitting the Portland-feature we bought a new font called "Hipsterich" :)

THE TEAM

Theresa Neubauer Antonia Sutter

CONTRIBUTORS DIANA PATIENT

Alex Sutter

PHOTOGRAPHER

Evi Neubauer

After shooting the cover for #sisterMAG15 last year there is much more of her work in this issue. For our section on sleep she organized the entire shoot - from the model to the bed linnen and the decision of which British newspaper to use. :)

Sandra Rothfeld Laura Glabbatz Luisa Sancelean Tina Bergs Ira Häussler

BRYAN WHITNEY PHOTOGRAPHER

THE COVER PHOTOS Zoë Noble HAIR & MAKEUP Patricia Heck MODEL Jessi Hesseler DRESS Evi Neubauer SET DESIGN Rebecca Martin

We had a truely lovely e-mail exchange with the X-ray photographer Bryan Whitney from New York. Straight away he dove into the history of this special form of photography for the »Fly« section. GEORGIE ST. ECLAIR ILLUSTRATOR

After stumbling upon her Instagram account we knew: Georgie just needs to be featured in sisterMAG! For this issue she designed the insects for the contents page - from flower petals and the most delicate pencil strokes.

BUG. BEE. BUTTERFLY. This symbol links to the website or Instagram account of our contributors.

This button links to the first article of the contributor in this issue.

TEXT Cathrin Brandes Apple vs Pine-Apple

Gudy Herder Scanned

Thea Neubauer All you need is sleep

Carly Diaz Portland

Elisa von Hof Bossy Brows

Diana Patient Design in Scent

Christie Dietz Eat Local

Alexander Kords Butterfly Effect

Rabea Tanneberger Portlandia

Laura Glabbatz

Lisa Lang

City Bees

Wearables

Luisa Sancelean Design Tour Bryan Whitney The Art of X-ray

Ira H채ussler

Root Vegetables

I L L U S T R AT I O N & L AY O U T Tina Bergs Portlandia

Thea Neubauer Asparagus Recipes

Georgie St. Eclair Contents Page

Helena Melikov Wearables

PRODUCTION Laura Glabbatz Sandra Rothfeld Antonia Sutter

Jonas Villmow Gebr체der Fritz

VIDEO Marco di Filippo Brows Beauty Cristopher Santos Design Tour Trine Skauen Brows Beauty

PHOTOGRAPHY Marco di Filippo

Mirjam Klein

Cristopher Santos

Brows Beauty

Sleeping Portraits

Spring Fashion

Enrique Jean Navarro Table of the Month

Ashley Ludäscher DIY-Moths

Trine Skauen

Zoë Noble Cover

Isabelle Wistuba

Tobias Koch

Berlin Design Tour

Cover All you need is sleep

Diana Patient All you need is sleep

PROOF

FINAL PROOF

Claire Cunningham

Sandra Rothfeld

Stefanie Kießling Amie McCracken

HAIR & MAKEUP Patricia Heck Spring Fashion Nina Jackson All you need is sleep Lena Schleweis Brows Beauty

T R A N S L AT I O N Maria Foh

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Ira Häussler

Tanja Timmer

BUG. BEE. BUTTERFLY.

MODELS Annabell Brows Beauty

Jessi Cover

Natalia Spring Fashion

Jordan All you need is sleep

STYLING Gudy Herder Table of the Month Rebecca Martin Cover

Thea Neubauer many features :) Trine Skauen Brows Beauty

FOOD Christiann Koepke Fresh from Portland Susanne Schanz Asparagus Recipes

Evi Neubauer Spring Fashion

Issue 18 | April 2015

Multimedia & Download Index Click on the image and it will lead you directly to the download!

PATTERNS

18/1 – velvet flares 18/2 – double18/3 – Westover breasted wool jacket

18/4 – cigarette trousers

18/6 – straight wollen skirt

18/9 – blue checked dress

RECIPES

18/7 – military style blouse

18/8 – brown bubble skirt

DIY

Asparagus recipes Fresh from Portland DIY fabric-moths

VIDEO

Maybelline brow tutorial sister-mag.com

Berlin design tour behind the scenes beauty shooting with Mazda

18/5 – top with ruffles

BUG. BEE. BUTTERFLY.

Issue 18 | April 2015

bug bee

Nice finds from the internet, curated by the sisterMAG editorial team

4 6

sister-mag.com

BUG. BEE. BUTTERFLY. Do you know this feeling: As soon as you start working on a topic or building an interest about a certain field of things, you will see this topic everywhere. The Pinterest walls of our editorial team members were full of moths, butterflies and bugs these last few weeks. This is why we wanted to share some of our inspirations with you and have curated a Pinterest

board

for our issue's topic. Also: click on the

pictures left to see more!

1 Large Mayfly von Janet Brome 2 Mister Finch 3 Rusty Antique Butterflies Giclee Art Print 4 Intricate brooch of a bug from PurePearlBoutique auf Etsy 5 Intricate pearl brooch of a butterfly from PurePearlBoutique auf Etsy

6 Closet Pleated Skater Dress In Butterfly Print von ASOS 7 How to draw insects? Educational poster on Shelley Davies 8 Oil painting from artist Amy Judd via Belle & Bunty Blog 9 Bee embroidery from Yumiko Higuchi

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BUG

The many patterns in #sisterMAG18 all have one thing in common: they will perfectly prepare your for the most capricious spring weather, safely guiding you from cold, rainy storms to warm, sunny days. For the shoot featuring these special clothes, we needed a special model: the beautiful Natalia (whose instagram @milia_ink we have been admiring for a long time) as well as a special location: the Biosph채re Potsdam where (most of) the sisterMAG-Team enjoyed a shooting day at 28째C . 21

PHOTOS: Cristopher Santos

CLOTHING & STYLING: Evi Neubauer

MAKEUP & HAIR: Patricia Heck

MODEL: Natalia (@milia_ink)

PRODUCTION: Sandra Rothfeld Issue 18 | April 2015

DOWNLOAD

10째C

DOWNLOAD

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Polo Neck Jumper: Uniqlo Gloves: Roeckl Shoes: Clarks Flared Velvet Apricot Trousers: Pattern sM18-1 Double Breasted Light Blue Wool Jacket: Pattern sM18-2

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Issue 18 | April 2015

Jumper: Vintage Spotted Shoes: Paco Mena Wollen Tank Top: Pattern sM18-3 Narrow Light Green Trousers: Pattern sM18-4

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Issue 18 | April 2015

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DOWNLOAD

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Issue 18 | April 2015

Red Heels: Zign Top With Ruffles And Pockets: Pattern sM18-5 Narrow Trousers: Pattern sM18-4

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DOWNLOAD

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Issue 18 | April 2015

Wedged Heel: Marco Tozzi Straight Houndstooth Pattern Skirt: Pattern sM18-1 Ruffled Blouse: Pattern sM16-2

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Issue 18 | April 2015

DOWNLOAD SKIRT

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Issue 18 | April 2015

Platform Sandals: Paloma Barcel贸 Brown Military Blouse: Pattern sM18-7 Brown Balloon Skirt: Pattern sM16-8

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Issue 18 | April 2015

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Issue 18 | April 2015

DOWNLOAD

White Heels: KIOMI Embroidered Dress: Pattern sM18-9

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Issue 18 | April 2015

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Issue 18 | April 2015

All about LOCAL: Food and Drinks from local makers, a Design Tour through Berlin, bees in the city and their honey

E L P P A S U S R E V PLE P A E N IP

l a loc

l a b o l g e Th trend of o d a C t tex

B n i thr

s e d ran

THE BEE

They call themselves locavores and

farming and food production.

are the proponents of one of the

Some prominent supporters

most important current global food

of this idea were the chef and

trends. They belong to a fairly recent

‘slow food’ proponent Alice Waters

kind of human beings who think

(Chez Panisse) and the author and

their personal nutritional choices

food activist Gary Paul Nabhan who

shouldn’t just benefit their own

had just published his book »Coming

wellbeing but help make the world

Home to Eat« at the time.

a better place. They are the driving

Even 10 years ago the locavore

force behind a booming market. But what exactly is it that they do? Simply put: carnivores eat meat, herbivores eat plants, paleovores eat the way humans did during the Stone Age and locavores eat locally.

movement appealed to many people even outside the US. Consumers in many industrial nations feel confused and

uneasy.

The

food

industry

keeps introducing more and more artificial products which only bare

The movement isn’t exactly brand

the faintest resemblance to what our

new though. The term locavore

grandmothers would have recognized

was coined in 2005 in the United

as food. Horrible pictures of industrial

States, by four young women in

livestock farming even make some

San Francisco. The group of chefs

shocked onlookers swear off all

and media workers launched a very

animal derived products for good.

effective online appeal challenging

Fruit and vegetables grown on huge

people to ‘eat locally’ for at least

scale pure plantations only find their

a month. They also defined what

way onto the supermarket shelves

they understood to be local: all food

after extensive journeys leaving them

had to be sourced within a 100 mile

tasting bland and insipid. It’s enough

radius and should be bought from

for any enlightened and discerning

places which promoted sustainable

customer to stop and think for a

Issue 18 | April 2015

minute and see what can be done to

production. Knowing your farmer

make things better.

and maybe even visiting the farm

The surprisingly easy answer is:

can help build confidence in their

buy locally! In its most exaggerated

practices.

form it means changing the place

Now it might not be a complete

where you shop for food from the

coincidence

anonymous supermarket to the

movement

colourful hustle and bustle of your

California. Their climate promises a

local farmerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s market. This can have

great selection of fruit and vegetables

many advantages but also a few

all year around as it even allows for

disadvantages:

the growing of citrus fruits, grapes,

Buying fruit and vegetables straight from the farmer not only leaves

that

the

originated

locavore in

sunny

avocado and kiwi. Avid cooks will want for nothing out there!

you with a fresher, better tasting

Living in Germany or similar more

product holding more nutrients than

northerly regions of the world will

supermarket shelf stuff, you can

clearly show the disadvantages of

also learn something about how the

buying only locally-sourced food in

products are grown and how much

winter at the very least. The largess

work it is to get them from seed

of the fresh summer selection is

to market. This way you will find

gone leaving only a small menu

yourself establishing a whole new

of hardy and easily stored options

relationship with what you eat, as this obviously also goes for meat,

including apples, potatoes, carrots and kale. Can you actually be a

poultry, milk and eggs. Species-

locavore in these latitudes?

appropriate animal farming should

It only takes a quick look to Denmark

be the minimum standard in food

to be able to answer this question

sister-mag.com

THE BEE

Nobelhart & Schmutzig: Strawberries, Lime blossoms, Grapeseed oil, Sheeps cream with a resounding ‘yes’. You can, in fact, even run a locavore restaurant which will be awarded the title of Best Restaurant in the World – more than once! René Redzepi, head chef at Copenhagen’s Noma has only served local food since the restaurant opened in 2003. Herbs, mushrooms, plants and algae collected in the nearby meadows, woods and on the

beaches

are

his

favourite

offer expertly guided

‘wild

herb tours’.

inspirations for new recipes. It all

Any doubts as to

supposedly started with an old army

whether

survival guide.

locally sourced ingre

While most of us wouldn’t volunteer

dients will in the end

to crawl on their hands and knees

make a tasty meal can be

through the dunes in search for

dispensed by visiting a new

edible algae, survival guide always

restaurant in Berlin set up

at the ready, picking wild garlic at

by publican Billy Wagner and chef

the park for a nice homemade pesto

Micha Schäfer. Nobelhart & S chmutzig's

with a decent storage life might not

menu is – as they themselves call

be out of the question. For those

it – brutally local. The regionality is

who don’t know what wild garlic or

not limited to the main ingredients

other edible plants that might grow

either. Sticking with the idea all the

within easy reach look like, many

way through also means making do

rambling or gardening associations

without olive oil, pepper, nutmeg,

strictly

Issue 18 | April 2015

Nobelhart & Schmutzig: Pea, Onion plants, Elderflower shopping trip to the market or a tour of regional farmer’s shops at the weekend should check out

Food Assembly .

The service platform

connects interested consumers and

Nobelhart & Schmutzig: Lettuce, Dill & Sour cream

regional producers for a hassle free local online shopping experience. The products are available at set

citrus 48

fruits,

cinnamon

market locations and you can meet

and of course chocolate! Micha

the farmers and manufacturers in

Schäfer does not compromise using

person. Locally grown fruits and

chamomile instead of vanilla even

vegetables, including many heirloom

elevates his cooking to new levels

varieties, bread, cake and honey,

of exquisiteness – the results are

cheese and meats are all available

simply sensational. Demonstrating

as well as, depending on the season,

regional diversity to the people of

mushrooms, berries and wild herbs.

Berlin and those who come to visit is

The idea originated in France but

not Schäfer’s and Wagner’s only goal

the system is spreading all over

though. It’s the support they provide

Germany right now. Several regions

to local businesses and farmers in

are currently looking for founders

the region around the metropolis

and helpers to set up new chapters.

that is particularly important to

Berlin, Munich and Cologne already

them.

offer markets and the chance to

Anyone else eager to support local

shake your farmer’s hand.

business but too busy for a regular

Farmer’s

sister-mag.com

vanilla,

are

not

the

only

THE BEE

beneficiaries of the rising popularity

on its menu. The Cheese Berlin 2014,

regional

bakers,

products.

Artisanal

an international cheese fair held

confectioners,

butchers,

at the famous

Markthalle Neun

that

cheese makers, vintners, brewers

showcased many regional cheese

and distillers are back in demand

makers, marked their inaugural

and new related businesses are

celebration.

being founded. In Brandenburg, a German state without any significant local cheese tradition, the number of cheese making businesses newly founded over the past 20 years even prompted the recent establishment of the ‘Brandenburg milk and cheese route’. More than two dozen cheese makers and three specialist shops from Berlin are working together to

improve

the

way

regionally

produced cheese is marketed. The participating farm shops offer a

One of the best things about the local food movement is that you can do it in baby steps to see if it’s for you. Start small by buying fresh bread from a local bakery. You will probably not want to go back to the supermarket stuff. Next try a nice piece of meat from a proper butcher’s who actually knows where it came from. It’ll soon be the only kind

meat

range of cheeses: Capriolenhof and Karolinenhof produce a fabulous goat’s cheese, the cheese makers at milk sheep farm Pimpinelle present their

mild

yet

savoury

sheep’

cheese and the Ogrosen estate has varieties from all three types of milk

Markthalle Neun

Initiators of Markthalle Neun

Nobelhart & Schmutzig Restaurant in Berlin Website

you enjoy. If you find yourself with some spare

Food Assembly Products directly from the farmer Website

time on your hands at the weekend visit a local 50

farmer’s market. And soon the supermarket will seem like the most boring place ever. The next step might be preparing cherry preserve in the summer to enjoy during the winter months. And if you can’t live without a bit of cinnamon in your

Brandenburg Milk and Cheese Route Website

Christmas cookie dough, that’s no problem. But try and make a point of finding out where it was produced. That is a kind of regional sourcing, too. Just relating to a region farther away.

sister-mag.com

Markthalle Neun Products directly from the farmer Website

Cinnamon Campaign Website

THE BEE

The author Cathrin Brandes Author Cathrin Brandes herself is part of the local food scene in Berlin. She not only writes about it, but shapes it. She quit her profession as a lawyer and works now as a gastronomy consultant, food blogger, slow foodie, founder of the food clubs »Speisenklub Neukölln« and »foodXchange«, ambassador for enjoyment and herb bride.

Portrait in #sisterMAG12

Sweet Berlin The city indulges The two authors – photographer Florian Bolk and food blogger Cathrin Brandes – show the chocolate side of Berlin and the most beautiful places in the city. In the rush of sweet they visited the best pastry chefs, chocolatiers, confectioners, ice cream makers, coffee roasters, pastry and confectionery dealers in the city and portrayed them with their recipes.

Issue 18 | April 2015

MEAT

WIESBADEN

VEGGIES

FRUIT LONDON

L A C LO OD O F A Sausage Has Two asausagehastwo.com sister-mag.com

d l e Fi

t r o er p

THE BEE

As a food lover moving from London,

To begin with, how to define ‘local’?

England, to the spa town of Wiesbaden,

To most people it means purchasing

Germany, in 2010, I knew I’d be facing

food that has been produced as

changes in the way I shopped and

close as possible to home. Yet just

ate. I was leaving familiar ingredients

because you buy a chicken that’s been

behind and facing a fascinating new

reared 10km away it doesn’t mean

world of German products. But I had

it hasn’t been farmed intensively on

no idea I was about to transform the

an industrial scale, pumped full of

way I consume food.

growth hormones and antibiotics

I’m not, as stereotypes might dictate,

and done a 500km round trip to be

living off pork and beer. I’m actually eating more healthily than ever before.

I’ve always cooked from

scratch

and

avoided

processed

goods, but I now use fresher, higher quality products and experiment with interesting ingredients, from rainbow chard to ox tongue, and adore my weekly shop. How? By shopping for locally-produced food. The concept of eating locally is hardly a new one, but as a global trend, it’s recently gained momentum. On a fundamental level, the local food movement promotes the benefits and value of consuming locally-produced food, but as a basic premise it’s not quite as straightforward as it sounds.

packaged for sale. In fact, in Germany, in fact, that’s not unlikely: this is a country with a very bad reputation for its mass production of meat. So the notion of eating locally isn’t just about distance; it also incorporates the ethical ideals of sustainability and social responsibility. And with these come wide-ranging, multifaceted

implications

for

health,

society, politics, economy and the environment. I don’t believe an exclusively local food system would be a sustainable one (what would happen to the people of Colombia if we all stopped eating bananas?). I believe a sustainable food system should incorporate trading

Issue 18 | April 2015

food fairly across the globe. But the

could be legally defined as British

benefits of creating and expanding

(this law has since changed). So I

local food systems are clear: less

never felt entirely confident about

energy is used for transportation,

the provenance of the food I was

less

pollution

consuming. Things have changed

created than by industrial farming,

greatly there in the last 5 years, but on

local economies are supported and

my return visits I do find it shocking to

produce is fresher, tastier and better

see fresh seasonal products available

for our health. But I’m going to be

all year round.

honest, these aren’t the reasons I

Here in Wiesbaden in 2015, my

water

and

land

choose to eat locally. When I started, 54

I didn’t even know I was joining a movement. For me, eating locally is simply a source of great pleasure. Back

London

2010,

different. I still shop at supermarkets, but I pick up the majority of my fresh produce – seasonal fruit and

food

vegetables as well as meat, poultry

shopping was a dull routine, with the

and eggs - at the farmers’ market.

odd exception, I bought everything

Much of what’s available there –

at the supermarket.

The range

peppers, tomatoes, out of season

of fresh fruit and vegetables was

berries – is imported from the rest of

limited. I could purchase Spanish

Europe, but I choose only what I know

strawberries in December, but they

has been grown close to home. (I get

didn’t taste of much; I could buy an

ingredients such as aubergines, rice

apple flown in from South Africa, but

and chocolate from elsewhere). I love

it was impossible to find an English

knowing where my food comes from

one. Meat was confusingly labelled.

and I love rediscovering ingredients,

But who trusts labels anyway when

from pumpkins to plums, as the

a chicken shipped in from Thailand

seasons change.

and then processed in Great Britain

I gorge on each summer are the

sister-mag.com

shopping routine couldn’t be more

The strawberries

THE BEE

sweetest and juiciest I’ve ever tasted,

I’m lucky, of course, I live in a town

and we celebrate Easter every year

surrounded by vineyards and orchards

with lamb reared in the hills I can

and can shop for fresh local produce

see from home. We sometimes make

in a market square a ten minute

excursions to nearby vineyards to stock

walk from home. But I’ve learned it’s

up on wine; it’s a lot more fun to pick

possible to support local food systems

it up from the vintner who produced

in other ways so when we move from

it than pluck it from a supermarket

here, I can continue to do so. It’s easy

shelf. I also love shopping for food

to find out what’s in season, buy meat

locally, not just at the market but in

from a butcher or fresh vegetables

independent shops, too, because it’s

from a grocer, sign up for an organic

such a sociable experience. I’ve got to

vegetable delivery or grow herbs on a

know (and trust) the folk I buy my food

windowsill. I may have joined the local

from, chat with other customers whilst

food movement unknowingly, but it’s

I queue, and where I wouldn’t meet up

not a way of life I’d now willingly give

with friends at the supermarket, love

up.

ambling around market stalls with a companion.

Issue 18 | April 2015

CITY BEES

TALES OF AN URBAN BEEKEEPER interview with book author ERIKA MAYR texts by LAURA GLABBATZ

Our questions about the trend of urban beekeeping were answered by Erika Mayr (»Stadt bienen«). Furthermore, you can find more bee initiatives and start-ups on the following pages!

How did you become interested in honey bees? Actually, the bees came to me. A friend happened to ask me one day what I thought of bees. We were looking for an idea for our contribution to a competition which was held as part of the Shrinking Cities study. The project researched the demographic and economic effects of deindustrialization, suburbanization and post-socialism in four conurbations (Detroit, Ivanovo, Manchester/Liverpool, Halle/Leipzig). »BEES – Urban Beekeeping in Detroit«

sister-mag.com

THE BEE

became our project proposal. That

summer. This way life comes full

was back in 2004 and it’s how I started

circle within a year.

reading up on bees. I got my first be colony from my ‘beekeeper sponsor’

What makes urban honey special?

in 2007.

Studies conducted last year showed

What most fascinates you about urban beekeeping?

pollutants. The level of contaminants

that urban honey is almost free of is comparable to that of drinking water.

I just love experiencing the liveliness

Honey is the "purest" food we can

of nature first hand. The time of year

produce in an urban setting. The taste

when the short-lived bee – from

will vary depending on the season;

which we get the honey – live is when

just like the mood in the city changes

I go to visit them. I get to look after

depending on the time of year: There

them, feel them, see them, smell

is spring, the early summer and finally

them, hear them – in sort experience

midsummer. The taste of the honey

them with all my senses. From late

changes with the flora. Chest nut

summer until spring, however, they

and maple make for a mild yet savory

require complete calm and rest so

taste. In areas with a higher density

that’s the time for me to focus on

of garden there are also fruits and

my intellectual bee-related pursuits.

forget-me-nots from which a thick

The bees that live beyond the end of

and white variety of honey is yielded.

the season use their honey to feed

Early summer is characterized by

themselves and the queen between

robinia (mild and clear), with lime

seasons. And of course I eat honey

(from which we get the classic minty,

too; to bring back the feelings and

limy honey) dominating a little later

sensations I experienced back in the

on. Midsummer honey gets it darker,

Issue 18 | April 2015

CITY BEES »THE BEEBOX« Johannes Weber

Your own colony of bees in the city Stadtbienen e.V., a registered association from Berlin, promotes the protection of honey bees and wild bees in urban areas and tries to counteract bee mortality. Bees are some of the most important farm animals in Germany; in fact they come right after cattle and pork. 4,000 varieties

of fruit and vegetable in Europe rely on pollination by bees. But increased pure plantation, pesticides and the parasite Varroa are threatening the species. The number of bee colonies in Germany has shrunk by 80% over the past 65 years. Urban areas with their parks, balconies, allotments and gardens which tend to be free of pesticides and offer sufficient nourishment are important to halt this decline. One of the strategies Stadtbienen e.V. have devised to help increase the number of bees again is the BeeBox – a bee house thanks to which anyone can become a beekeeper. Without any special background

An : o t o Ph

ick l w a aP

knowledge

you

can

THE BEE

extra savory character from tree of heaven and sweet chestnut. Most

The DIY bee box

urban beekeepers have their hive in a fixed location and don’t need to drive their bees to flowering fields like some rural beekeepers do. In urban areas almost all hives are near a sufficient supply of nectar.

provide a species-appropriate home to bees on your balcony, in your garden or on the roof of

your

house.

With

clear

instructions for maintenance, which only takes about 20 hours a year, the BeeBox is a truly flexible solution. You can also enroll in a course introducing you to inner city beekeeping. And with an expected yield of up to 15kg (33 pounds) of honey per year the BeeBox is quite profitable, too.

Why do you keep your colonies on the roof? Most inner city roofs aren’t in use. Bees love the sun and the warmth and up on the roof they are out of harm’s way – by which I mean safe from burglary and vandalism as well as away from pedestrians. From up there the bees can fly to the tree without coming into contact with human city dwellers. If you keep phacelia on your balcony you can look forward to regular bee visitors. If you don’t ‘offer’ and nectar you won’t even notice the bee colonies.

When did urban beekeeping begin? www.stadtbienen.org www.bienenbox.de

Most beekeeper associations are around 150 years old. So there has always

been

urban

beekeeping.

Issue 18 | April 2015

Bees thrive in urban areas because they offer a richer supply of nectar than rural pure plantation. Even today many bee colonies are kept in

MEINHONIG.AT

gardens where they pollinate fruit and vegetables. They are an integral

Regional honey from your personal queen bee

part of urban agriculture. Since the 1990s urban gardening has become more of a focus: City locations you

wouldn’t associate with gardening

»Mein Honig« (My honey) is an

being turned into flower beds is

apiary

one popular aspect. The prime

national park which produces

example is the Prinzessinnengarten

exclusive, regional honey from

at Moritzplatz in Berlin, an inner

Austria. The colonies live on the

city wasteland which has literally

sunny mountainsides of Upper

blossomed into a wonderfully green

Austria where beekeeper David,

place to meet. Gardening takes

the founder of »Mein Honig«

place in a specific location whereas

runs his sustainable bee yard.

in beekeeping you spread your

Unlike most beekeepers he does

efforts in a wider area. Bees have a

not produce ordinary extracted

range of around 3km in which they

honey using centrifuges. Their

fly. This is the beekeepers realm

honey is pressed which is the

and they have to ensure te wellbeing

oldest and most gentle method

of their colonies in it. They also

of honey extraction. The mature

need to stay on top of reproduction

honeycombes are cut from the

and ensure the public space is not

frame and put into the press. By

adversely affected. It’s about striking

applying pressure the honey is

a balance: staying invisible and yet

separated from the comb and then

affecting perceptive change – a form

strained through a sieve. Pressed

of art, no doubt.

honey contains 5 times as much

sister-mag.com

inside

the

Kalkalpen

THE BEE

valuable pollen as centrifuge extracted honey. The apiary also offers a special adoption program: You can adopt a queen bee and even name it. â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Foster parentsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; will

get monthly letters as well as honey from their personal queen bee and can keep up with her life and development

bee parents will get their first mail in March including a bee pass and 4 glasses of honey.

www.meinhonig.at

Particularly lovely

striking

packaging

Forest Honey

the bees go into hibernation. Adopted

Mix Honey

bees start to fly until November when

Blossom Honey

programs run from March when the

Cream Honey

all through the season. Adoption

design

the of

meinhonig.at. The four varieties are characterized by geometric symbols.

Issue 18 | April 2015

NEARBEES Honey from next door 80% of all honey sold at our supermarkets these days is not produced in Germany but will instead come from Argentina, Mexico or China. The decrease in domestic bees is not only a serious problem for beekeepers it also threatens our native flora. 80% of all plants rely on pollination by bees. nearBees is a start-up committed to solving

this problem. Their goal is to re-regionalize our honey consumption and support local beekeepers as well as bee colonies in Germany directly. Their eponymous website offers a platform for hobby beekeepers to sell their honey to local residents. Customers can search for bee colonies close

The nearBees founding team: Michael Gelhaus, Victoria Schmidt, Kristian Knobloch and Dominik Krebs sister-mag.com

THE BEE

Honey from next door for breakfast

to their place of

nearBees created a special new

residence and buy their

packaging specifically for honey they

honey directly

from

their

locale

use to ship their product. The flat

beekeeper, pick it up themselves

design and low weight allow for their

and find out exactly where it comes

pouches to be sent as ordinary letters

from, creating a win-win situation for

solving the problem of the formerly

beekeepers as well as customers. You

unprofitable shipping of ordinary

get natively sourced honey straight to

honey jars. But the concept is not just

your house and the beekeeper can

beneficial for humans but also for

focus on the beesâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC; wellbeing instead

Mother Nature as it promotes a green

of devising sales strategies.

neighbourhood. At the moment the nearBees service is still restricted to bee colonies in and around Munich.

www.nearbees.de

Issue 18 | April 2015

sister-mag.com

THE BEE

BEEHIVE BLOGGER FEATURE

For this blogger feature we asked some of our favourite bloggers for their recipes

inspired by and based on honey.

Issue 18 | April 2015

sister-mag.com

THE BEE

GRILLED BRIE WITH FIGS & THYME HONEY BY ALASKA FROM SCRATCH INGREDIENTS

PREPARATION

Yields 4-6 servings

To a small saucepan over medium-

¼ cup honey (I used local homestead honey)

low heat, add the honey and thyme.

2 sprigs fresh thyme, plus more for garnish

heat and keep warm.

1 wheel brie cheese (or 19.6 ounce)

4-5 fresh, ripe figs, quartered

water crackers or French bread

Bring to a simmer, then turn down Heat a panini press on the low setting. Unwrap the wheel of brie and place it in the preheated press. Close the lid and heat until soft and warm to the touch, with golden grill marks, watching carefully (if you go too long, the cheese will burst through the rind and ooze out), mine took about 5-6 minutes. Carefully transfer the warm brie to a serving plate. Top with quartered figs, drizzle with honey, and garnish with fresh thyme. Serve immediately with water crackers or sliced french bread.

FIND FULL RECIPE HERE

Issue 18 | April 2015

COCONUT OIL HONEY ALMOND GRANOLA BY LOVELY LITTLE KITCHEN INGREDIENTS

PREPARATION

Yields 4 cups

Preheat oven to 350 degrees.

1 cup almonds,divided

3 cups old fashioned oats

½ tsp salt

¹⁄3 cup brown sugar ¹⁄3 cup honey 68

3 tbsp coconut oil ¼ tbsp vanilla extract ¹⁄8 tbsp almond extract

In a food processor or blender, pulse half of the almonds until they are very finely chopped. Pour them into a large bowl. Then chop the other half of the almonds coarsely, and pour them into the same bowl. Pour the oats, salt, and brown sugar into the bowl with the almonds and stir to combine. In a small microwaveable bowl, combine honey and coconut oil, and heat for 40 seconds. Stir to dissolve the coconut oil, and add the vanilla and almond extract. Pour the honey mixture over the oats, and stir so that they are evenly coated. Pour the oats evenly onto a Silpat or parchment lined baking sheet (helpful if it has sides). Bake the oats for 5 minutes, and then stir them around. Return to the oven for 5 more minutes. Pour the granola and onto a piece of wax paper to cool. Spread it out into a thin layer. After it cools completely, break the granola into clusters and store in an airtight container.

sister-mag.com

FIND THE RECIPE HERE

THE BEE

Issue 18 | April 2015

HONEY-LIME STUFFED POTATOES BY COOKING CLASSY

INGREDIENTS 4 medium sized sweet potatoes (scrubbed and rinsed)

1 cup uncooked quinoa

1 ¾ cup low-sodium chicken broth or vegetable broth 1 tbsp olive oil

1 cup chopped yellow onion

1 clove garlic

1 can black beans, drained and rinsed (15 oz)

1 ½ cups grilled or frozen corn

½ tsp ground cumin

½ tsp ground paprika

¼ tsp ground coriander

¹⁄8 tsp caynenne pepper 3 ½ tbsp fresh lime juice

3 ½ tbsp honey salt freshly ground black pepper 3 tbsp chopped cilantro, plus more for garnish ½ cup shredded Monterey Jack cheese sour cream for serving (optional)

RECIPE WITH INSTRUCTIONS sister-mag.com

THE BEE

MILK TEA & HONEY POUND CAKE BY LADY AND PUPS INGREDIENTS

PREPARATION

Pound cake

Preheat the oven on 350ºF/175ºC.

Grind black tea-leaves in a spice-grinder until

12 g black tea (Irish breakfast tea, Assam tea leaves) 1 cup whole milk

170 gr unsalted butter, room temperature ½ cup granulated sugar ...

coarsely ground (like the consistency of ground coffee for French-press), then add to the milk in a small sauce pot. If you don’t have a spice-grinder, combine tea-leaves with milk in a blender, and blend to the same consistency. Bring to a simmer on medium-heat then turn the heat off. Leave the ground tea-leaves in the milk and let steep while cooling down to room-temperature...

RECIPE WITH ALL INGREDIENTS & INSTRUCTIONS

Issue 18 | April 2015

RAINBOW SALAD WITH HONEY MUSTARD DRESSING BY PINCH OF YUM

INGREDIENTS

PREPARATION

For the Salad

Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium high

2 tsp olive oil

heat. Sprinkle the chicken with salt, pepper,

8 on boneless, skinless chicken breasts

and chili powder. Saute in the oil for a few minutes, flipping the chicken now and then to

½ tsp salt

cook through and get a golden color on both

½ tsp pepper

sides. Once cooked remove from heat and set

1 tsp chili powder

aside.

2 cups grapes, halved

Cut and prep all the vegetables and fruits. When

the chicken is cool enough to handle, cut into

1 cup fresh blueberries

3 cups curly lettuce, chopped

bite sized pieces. Place the salad ingredients in

½ cup feta cheese

by ingredient, like pictured, or toss everything

½ cup almonds, chopped or crushed

together. Refrigerate to chill.

For the Dressing

ingredients in a food

3 tblsp almond butter

processor until

1 tblsp olive oil

smooth. Taste

2 tblsp freshly squeezed orange juice

and adjust to your

3 tblsp water

dressing

1 tblsp stoneground mustard

over salad

½ tblsp raw honey

¼ tsp salt, more to taste

½ tsp garlic

sister-mag.com

a large bowl - you can either arrange the bowl

For the dressing, puree all the dressing

preferences. Pour

and serve.

TO THE R ECIPE

THE BEE

E足

Issue 18 | April 2015

sister-mag.com

THE BEE

HONEY & LAVENDER MACAROONS BY HINT OF VANILLA INGREDIENTS

PREPARATION

Macarons

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

212 g almond flour

The macarons need to be as close in size as

212 g powdered sugar

possible and a template is the easiest way to

82 g egg whites

ensure that. Lay a sheet of parchment paper on

90 g egg whites

a work sure with the long side facing you. Trace

236 g granulatedsugar

158 g water

Honey Lavender Cream

four evenly spaced 2 1/4 inch circles along the top edge (these make large macarons, modify the size if you wish, but keep in mind, the baking time will be shorter). Make sure to leave 1 inch of

340 g unsalted butter, at room temperature

space between them. Trace three circles below

453 g powdered sugar

up each corner of the parchment and spray with

each of those four, to make 3 x 4 macarons. Turn the parchment over and lay it on a sheet pan. Lift

¹⁄16 tsp lavender oil

non-stick spray to keep it from blowing up while

the cookies are baking. Repeat with a second

3 tsp honey

food colouring (optional)

sheet. Place the almond flour in a food processor and pulse to grind it as fine as possible. Sift the almond flour and powdered sugar into a large bowl and whisk together. Make a well in the

TO THE FULL R ECIPE

center, leaving a layer of flour at the bottom. Pour in the 82 grams egg whites and combine with a spatula. Scrape the seeds from the vanilla bean and add them to the mixture, stirring until evenly distributed. Set aside....

Issue 18 | April 2015

PROMO

The trend towards being local has always been an important issue to sisterMAG. So we decided to take a closer look at Berlin. The city isn't just home to many hipsters and a politically sensitive issue but also the setting for countless projects and campaigns about art and design. These projects are what we want to introduce you to on the next pages. We asked a few friends to accompany our tour of design shops, concept stores and interesting places. To get from A to B, we chose the new Mazda2. The unique »KODO« design of the compact car has already won it a »Goldene Lenkrad« prize. Join us on our tour! photos & Video: Cristopher Santos photos Berlin at night: Tobias Koch Produktion: Sandra Rothfeld Text: Thea Neubauer

sister-mag.com

& Laura Glabbatz & Luisa Sancelean

THE BEE

Issue 18 | April 2015

1 AEG Premises Wedding

The former factory premises of the AEG are stretching from Voltastraße to Humboldthain. The old brick buildings are remnants of past times. Today, the complex houses a start-up centre and many small start-ups (like sisterMAG :)).

2 Tchoban Foundation Museum for Architecture Drawing 3 Baerck

Great shop to gain insight into the Berlin fashion and interior design scene.

4 me Collectors Room Auguststraße 68

ME Collectors Room simultaneously houses a café, shop and exhibition space. Next to the Wunderkammer, the permanent exhibition, there are changing exhibitions with over 200 exhibits.

5 German Historical Museum sister-mag.com

THE BEE

6 Liebe Möbel Haben

7 Süper Store

Boxhagener Straße 113

Dieffenbachstraße 12

This store has a huge choice of extravagant design pieces, mainly furniture, but also a collection of lamps in the style of the 1960s.

Here, you can find a selection of various exceptional pieces from different cultures. They have everything from soaps, fabrics to furniture and lamps.

8 Boucherie&Söhne Friesenstr. 13

A small corner store in Kreuzberg which functions as a showroom for interior. The owner, a set designer, and his wife, costume designer, sell furniture, art and antiques in the style of industrial design. 79

9 Andreas Murkudis

Potsdamer Str. 81

Fashion, furniture, books and cosmetics – this shop offers everything for the style savvy. The owner Andreas Murkudis chooses every product sold in the store himself (hence the stores name). Also impressive is the design of the store itself which was designed by Berlin Designteam Gonzalez and Haase.

10 New National 11 Bauhaus Archive Gallery 12 Airport Tegel Issue 18 | April 2015

Who drove with us

Toni – Founder of sisterMAG

Carlo – Art Historian

Berlin offers a culturally diverse

Cris – Photographer

at the considerable amount of art,

designed the index for sisterMAG 17. Beth had originally planned to only stay here for a few months. These few months have now turned into half a year. In the featuring videos, she tells us about her take on design in this city.

architecture and design in Berlin.

This time, we also managed to get our

Some of them are our Design Tour

photographer CRISTOPHER SANTOS in front of the camera. The Canadian moved to Berlin over two years ago. He frequently contributes to sisterMAG. Cris was probably the most excited about the Mazda2 (his dream car is the new MX-5).

spectrum of museums and events. International

artists,

designers,

photographers and tourists have 80

Beth – Illustrator

come here for a long time to marvel

guests. sisterMAG founder TONI, has lived in Berlin for 9 years and is the perfect example for a Berliner-by-choice. She is going to lead you through this Design Tour.

CARLO is a »proper« Berliner. The art historian works for the National Gallery and can tell the most detailed, fascinating stories about street lamps, buildings and most other things. Our second guest is BETH WALROND, illustrator from Great Britain, who

sister-mag.com

Last but not least: JESSI, Blogger at »Törtchenzeit«. We managed to fly her in from her beloved hometown Cologne, picked her up at Flughafen Tegel and took her for a spin in the Mazda2. But she didn’t only come here to look at Berlin: you can also admire her on the cover of this sisterMAG!

THE BEE

Jessi â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Blogger

Photo: Michela Ravasio

PROMO

Design in everyday life While visiting our design places with Carlo, Beth, Cris and Jessi, they also talked us through their relationship with design and Berlin. To see what they said, watch this video!

V ID EO

»So I’m lucky enough to have a job that means that I get to I take a lot of inspiration from the designers around me … more

sister-mag.com

BETH

Photo links: Good Vibrations

THE BEE

»The tv tower is one of my favourite buildings, simply because when I first got here, I really didn't like the look and design of it, but … more « CRIS

»I always feel a solemn exaltation when traversing the Tiergarten between the Brandenburger Tor and

the Siegessäule … more

TONI

Issue 18 | April 2015

Tchoban Foundation Christinenstr. 18A, 10119 Berlin tchoban-foundation.de

sister-mag.com

THE BEE

Museum for Architecture Drawing Tchoban Foundation With its effortlessly bouffant cubing,

The pages are not just placed outside

the museum for architectural drawing

of the building but also carry on

is the eye-catcher of the Gallery

to be part of the two levels of the

Pfefferberg in Berlin. Architect Sergei

gallery. The museum, sponsored

Tchoban opened the museum in June

by the Tchoban Foundation, shows

2013 which he designed together

three to four exhibitions per year. In

with Sergey Kuznetsov. The buildings

2001, Tchoban created the foundation

exterior already shows its purpose:

for his top-class collection which

sand stone coloured walls decorated

now contains hundreds of drawings

with facade reliefs which display

originating from the 16th century

enlarged

drawings

until today. But not only the museums

from the collection. They look like

own inventory is displayed, many

pages fanning outwards. This is the

international cooperations have led

architect's realisation of an ideal

to a broad spectrum of exhibitions.

space

drawings

This is a first and makes the private

where Tchoban connects his passion

museum an internationally known

for drawing with architecture.

venue for architects.

for

fragments

architectural

Issue 18 | April 2015

German Historical Museum Unter den Linden 2, 10117 Berlin dhm.de

sister-mag.com

THE BEE

German Historical Museum The German Historic Museum as Germany's national history museum represents two individually breathtaking buildings: the baroque Zeughaus Unter den Linden and the modern exhibition hall from I.M. Pei. The Zeughaus is the oldest existing building Unter den Linden and was originally built in 1695 under the guidance of Johann Arnold Nering as armoury. Already back then, just as today, the building didn't only function as armoury but also as location for the presentation of historical weapons and trophys.

and the state of Berlin. In the course

The museum was founded in 1987 on the occasion of the 750th anniversary of the city of Berlin by the former Federal Republic of Germany

developments and are housed in

of the German reunification in 1990, all buildings and collections from the historical museum in East Germany were transferred to what now is the pan-German museum for history. The museum aims to be a place for communicating history and reflecting german culture and self-conception. The Zeughaus contains more than 7.000

objects

exhibition

its

â&#x20AC;&#x17E;German

permanent History

Picturesâ&#x20AC;&#x153;. The changing permanent exhibitions are dedicated to formative historical events, eras and societal the modern part of the museum. The German Historic Museum also accomodates the Zeughaus-cinema, a library and picture library.

Issue 18 | April 2015

new national gallery The

new

National

were creations from the era of german

expressionism by artist group the

than a building or a

'BrĂźcke' and pieces from well-known

museum â&#x20AC;&#x201C; it is the

artists like Max Beckmann and Otto

most important place for modern art

Dix. Another emphasis is the diverse

in Berlin, a milestone in architectural

representation of art from the GDR.

history and an icon of modern

On the museum grounds, like the

architecture.

architect

terrace and gardens, one can discover

Ludwig Mies van der Rohe (1886-

sculptures from various international

1969) designed the building, it opened

and german artists.

in 1968 and contained drawings and

Seen from an architectural point of

Gallery

German

sculptures from classical modernism to the 1960s. The core of the exhibition

sister-mag.com

view, the building perfectly represents

THE BEE

New National Gallery Potsdamer Str. 50 10785 Berlin Website

ÂťTo be honest, the New National Gallery is one of my favourite buildings in Berlin.ÂŤ CARLO

Mies van der Rohe's vision of universal

British architect David Chipperfield

space. With its latent classicism, the

has already started his work with an

new National Gallery is a modern

unusual installation called 'Sticks and

realisation of the antique platform

Stones': he transformed the gazebo

temple. Sitting on a granite terrace,

into a columned hall by assembling

the typical square glass gazebo excels

144 debarked trees.

due to the seemingly levitating roof structure. Almost 50 years after being built, the new National Gallery is now being rebuilt and thus closed for several years from January 2015.

Issue 18 | April 2015

Bauhaus â&#x20AC;&#x201C; synonymous to simple, economic,

efficient

and

timeless

buildings. It stands for uniting art and 2

craft. The most famous school for Design and Architecture originated in 1919 in Weimar, founded by Walter Gropius. Even though it only existed until 1933, the Bauhaus continues to affect art and architecture until today. The Bauhaus archive was founded in 1960 by Hans Maria Wingler in Darmstadt. Gropius designed the corresponding museum in Berlin, which opened in 1979. Today, its

Bauhaus Archive KlingelhĂśferstr. 14, 10785 Berlin bauhaus.de

striking silhouette is one of the landmarks of the city and the building itself has become an icon. Since 3

1997, the building has been under monument conservation. For the

THE BEE 1 - Marcel Breuer, High Chair, 1924, Bau-

haus Archive (Photostudio Bartsch)

2 & 3 - Exhibition view Bauhaus Collection

4 - Ludwig Mies van der Rohe, Haus

Hubbe, Magdeburg: sketch,

1934–1935 (© VG Bild Kunst)

5 - Katja Rose, chromatic circle graded

by black and white (© Hannes Rose)

Bauhaus Archive 100-year-jubilee in 2019, a new tract is planned to enlarge the exhibition space. The Bauhaus Archive – museum for design

now

contains

the

biggest

collection of Bauhaus material with paintings,

sculptures,

architecture,

photography and more. The permanent exhibition »Die Sammlung Bauhaus – Originale der Klassischen Moderne« ('The collection Bauhaus – originals of modern classicism) shows works of famous artists like Walter Gropius, Paul Klee, Wassily Kandinsky and Oskar Schlemmer. Additionally, there are at least four special exhibitions per year. Another important aspect of the museum and research institute is the archive which collects all kinds of works in connection to the Bauhaus.

Issue 18 | April 2015

sister-mag.com

THE BEE

Foto: Tobias

Koch

PROMO

Airport Tegel 13405 Berlin berlin-airport.de

Airport Tegel »Design in our everyday lifes has so many different aspects – everything from ar-

chitecture … more

« JESSI

We didn't only write about the Flughafen Tegel because we picked up our cover model Jessi there: The airport is one of the best example of 1960s architecture and one of very few 'Drive-In-Airports'. The architects aimed at practicality because they wanted passengers to be able to get from the plane to the exit as quickly as possible. They didn't mind that the design might show up slightly crooked or unusual, a convenient airport was the main goal. The ring-shaped structure is a perfect example for this: it should enable travellers to reach their gate much faster than usually.*

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*Source: zeit.de

THE BEE

Issue 18 | April 2015

IDEA

Imagine you are out walking your dog and it suddenly runs off. Instead of printing out signs and sticking them to trees and poles in the area you can ask your neighbours via our platform to keep an eye out. We also offer classifieds; announcements, re commendations and you can alert your neighbours

to events or clean-up rallies. It’s much like an interactive notice board, quick and easy. Our ‘neighbourhoods’ are private, locally exclusive networks in which neighbours can support each other and exchange views. WirNachbarn is available via a website and also via smartphone app.

To this day we are selffinanced. The three founders pooled their money and currently work on the project without drawing a salary. Some acquaintances have also chipped in.

At the moment we don’t. We have considered several options for the long run and decided to go with advertisements. We think this is the most attractive option for our members as the strong local connection promises real value: a

pizza place, an organic supermarket or a hair dresser can specifically target an audience within walking distance of a current promotion. And the neighbours will be served relevant, regional information for their area.

STARTUP SPOTLIGHT

WirNachbarn.com

@WirNachbarn

FINANCE

REVENUE

INSPIRATION

It all started when somebody recommended the book »Bowling Alone« by Robert Putnam, a professor of sociology. It illustrates how we spend an increasingly smaller part of our free time with other people. This not only has an effect on society itself and the state but also on the development of the individual. We

receive much less feedback and experience less of the kind of community and support that used to be an implicit part of life. At about the same time I read about neighbourhood networks in Asia and the US which successfully revived neighbourhoods and worked against the trend described in the book. So

around Christmas 2013 I decided to start a project like this in Germany. In the bigger cities so many people live so closely together but they don’t even know their next door neighbours. WirNachbarn is an opportunity to counteract anonymity and quickly and easily establish a support network for your daily life. 97

People

will

check

what’s going on in their neighbourhood

the

breakfast table or on their way to work. They can

check

specific

information, request and get

recommendations

and raise an issue in the same place. WirNachbarn

lives. Using it will have become second nature like drinking your morning coffee, reading the paper or checking Facebook. We also want to establish the service in some other European countries and are already working on an English version.

will be part of people’s

FUTURE PLANS

At the moment there is no competition in Germany. Wir.de and allenachbarn. de tried to establish similar services but they have disappeared again. Polly & Bob, a similar but paid service will go live in Berlin soon. But we want to offer a service open to everybody so we keep our platform free.

COMPETITORS

FOUNDER'S PAST

My friends and cofounders Aymon Delbridge und AndrĂŠ Dieling, with whom I embarked on the adventure that is WirNachbarn, and I all worked in large corporations but had different careers. AndrĂŠ worked in project finance for UniCredit in London and joined WirNachbarn

full time in August 2014. I left Celesio, an M-DAX company, after many years in July to fully focus on the start-up. Aymon has a family to support and still works as an IT consultant in Frankfurt, but he is our IT project leader and oversees our developers.

The founder team (f.l.t.r.): Aymon Delbridge

We wanted neither an English name nor an artificial term. WirNachbarn is simple, self-explanatory and memorable. We think the name perfectly conveys the idea of community and neighbourhood it represents.

The WirNachbarn colour is a warm bright red which stands for activity and a zest for life. It catches the eye and is immediately noticeable.

Berlin.

NAME

COLOUR

CITY

IDEA

So far we have focussed on growing the marketing department by hiring interns and student workers.

e, Philipp Götting und André Dieling

We use well-known software like the Office suite and Trello for project management.

Quick, easy, typically Berlin: doner kebab or pizza

MOST USED SOFTWARE

STAFF

MAIN FOOD

IDEA

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THE BEE

9 questions for Kathrin from Gebr端der Fritz 101

Gebr端der Fritz are Kathrin Limburg and Verena Nobis-Wicherding Photos: Cristopher Santos

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You (KL Production ) are the founders of the event location Gebrüder Fritz, how did that come about?

For how long did you search for a location? How long did the reconstruction take? What did this place look like before?

I’ve been longing for my own location for a long time. Inspired by my work as an event manager and my passion for interior design I wanted to create a place that is special where you feel comfortable and are surrounded by beautiful things. A place to feel welcome, offering all conditions for successful events.

It wasn’t easy at all to find a suitable location as a lot of criteria had to be met in order to make it work and I didn’t want to make any compromises. Therefore, at the end of the search it felt like I’d visited half the city. During the first viewing, my colleague Verena thought I was only being polite as the broker was very sympathetic but I liked the flat and atmosphere right away. Today, after three months of reconstruction there’s not much remaining of the original flat, it has been totally obstructed. After removing wallpaper, carpets, walls and layers of laminate the former charm of this prestigious storey could unfold again. Now, combined with elements of the New York loft style and a huge kitchen, it is finally the location I’d envisaged back then.

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THE BEE

Where does your location’s name come from? We had a name with funny male names in mind right from the start. Finally, we inspected the construction files in order to find out more about the house’s history and to eventually find a name related to the location. The three carpenters who built the house in 1899 were brothers called Carl, Heinrich and Christian Fritz. Surprisingly, these are also the names of our grandfathers. We love the question about our bosses, the »Gebrüder Fritz« (Brothers Fritz).

What does a company that offers event production do? Beyond providing a location, we are a classical event agency, that’s where we started from. Gebrüder Fritz is working for great companies from the midsized sector to well-established brands like Zalando. We like to host anything in a very creative way whether it’s a classical dinner for journalists with yellow violins hanging from the ceiling or a pompous blogger event at a castle in Brandenburg that lasts a whole weekend.

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„

There is no normal working day.

“

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KL PRODUCTION Event production & Photo production c/o Gebrüder Fritz Bleibtreustraße 38/39 10623 Berlin

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Issue 18 | April 2015

How did you arrange your duties or does anyone have their own tasks and strengths? What do you like most about your job?

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Verena and I have been working together for a year and we’re fantastic sparring partners. Verena is unbeatable when it comes to customer contact; she is very sensitive and has the patience of a saint. So she’s responsible for most of the customer communication. She listens very carefully to the customer’s needs and goals. After that, it’s my turn. I’m the rather creative one who loves to develop and implement concepts and to work meticulously until everything is perfect, just as I imagined it in my mind’s Pinterest.

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How do you start your every day? My morning is accompanied by a large cup of latte macchiato and my cats Frida and Fridolin who observe the hectic hustle. The first calls and ideas reach me early on therefore I’m usually in a hurry and always walking, but I like that, it's part of me and my life. Verena can’t be influenced by that. Her morning starts less hectically with two big cups of tea and a healthy breakfast; she approaches things with more calmness. As we live in the same shared flat she’s sometimes already heading to the office while I’m still deciding on the right pair of shoes to match my outfit.

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„

The Gebrüder Fritz’s philosophy is »Think big«.

“ Issue 18 | April 2015

Describe a normal working day in a few words. Honestly, it only takes five words: ÂťThere is no normal dayÂŤ. But this is exactly what we love about our job: Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s never going to be boring and there are new challenges everyday that we try to solve creatively. Sometimes, you find the solutions at a flea market, sometimes in the Chinese supermarket around the corner. 110

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THE BEE

Who would be your dream customer? Over the years, it has shown that it is less about the company’s name and is more about the project that the client is assigning to us. Is there freedom for creativity to develop a nice concept, how is the collaboration going to work; that is all much more important than the name itself. It is always great to work for industrial clients as there are budgets that are fun and high demands on perfection; I like that. Yet, it occurs to me, the Chanel show for Karl in Paris would really be a great thing, I would love to be involved.

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Do you consider yourselves as Charlottenburger (resident of Berlin's district of Charlottenburg) now? We feel very comfortable here. In this environment, our concept of »fresh air behind old walls« can be perfectly conveyed as Berlin Charlottenburg is changing in a very exciting way; we’re really glad about already being here and being a part of this new vibe. Go west!

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In this section we hid at least 50 butterflies: on the brows of our models and made by hand out of cloth. Furthermore some thoughts about one of the best sensations: smell.

PROMO

B r A

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e sister-mag.com

u n

Bossy Brows TEXT

Elisa von Hof

THE BUTTERFLY

a history of the female brow

rida Kahlo, Cara Delevingne, Marlene Dietrich, Audrey

Hepburn,

Bert

and

a statement. And for centuries they have also expressed the ever-evolving

Daniela

idea of femininity. Right now in times

Katzenberger. This is not a list of

of complete individuality and freedom

names you often see referenced in the

of fashion â&#x20AC;&#x201C; now that the time of the

same connection. And yet they all have

confident girl boss has finally arrived

something in common, something

â&#x20AC;&#x201C; models like Cara Delevingne or

small: they all have very distinctive

actresses like Lily Collins lead the

eye brows. Whether bushy, precisely

way with bold brows. This hasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t

plugged, heavily arched, shaved off

always been the case.

and tattooed back on or even a mono

Just like the ideals in fashion, style

brow: eye brows are not only conveyors

and with regards to the self-image of

of emotions and an integral part of

women have changed over the past

non-verbal communication, but also

centuries so, has the idea of what is

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PROMO

Even the women of ancient Egypt and Greece took special care of their brows.

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considered a perfect brow. Eyebrows reflect current trends just as much as style and fashion. Paying special attention to the frame of your eyes is nothing new but has a long cosmetic tradition – eyebrows were »hot« even way back when. The women of ancient Egypt and Greece as well as the Japanese women of the early Middle Ages, all took special care of their brows. Queen Nefertiti plucked her eyebrows in the 14 century BC and even used lead ore and anthracite-coloured coal to colour them. The latter was more than just a form of decorative make-up: The lead salts contained in the ore had an antibacterial effect and help stimulate the immune system to fight off eye infections especially common in the humid regions along the Nile.

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| Links The first trendsetters in history Nefertiti, main wife of Pharoah Akhenaten, 14th century BC

This first make-up trend set by Nefertiti and her contemporaries influenced the idea of beautiful women’s brows for centuries to come. The women of ancient Greece and later also Roman women followed in their footsteps. An entire beauty cult developed around perfumed ointments and oils, thermal baths, imported wigs of genuine human hair, epilation, skin care – and the colouring of eyebrows in contrast rich colours. Red lips and dark brows remained the ideal. It wasn’t until late antiquity when Christianity became the state religion that heavily made-up women came under pressure because their make-up was seen as too suggestive. Decorative cosmetics were deemed narcissistic and superficial and only

THE BUTTERFLY

their medicinal use was approved by Christian missionaries. The Middle Ages saw a general ebbing away of pursuits related to body culture and so the urge to accentuate the brows died down too. The Middle Ages are often called the Dark Ages and where decorative cosmetics are concerned they really were. In the Far East, however, colourful times lay ahead for eyebrows: In Japan accentuated eyebrows have always been an integral part of a perfect make-up. Japanese women would even shave off their brows and retrace the desired black oval shape. This technique known as »Hikimayu«, which translates as »coloured eyebrows«, had its peak in the 12th century. But the tradition of accentuating eyebrows is still going strong: a white foundation, cherryred lips and striking high brows have become the epitome of beauty. This mask-like make-up not only made for a graceful and delicate appearance, it also all but eliminated non-verbal communication as well as the

appearance of any signs of aging like single white hairs or small wrinkles. This tradition still influences our modern idea of make-up as is evident in the painted faces of traditional Geishas.

Her pale complexion and red-coloured lips made Queen Elizabeth I. a fashion icon. In Europe, however, the understated make-up remained prominent. It wasn’t until the time of the Renaissance that in addition to the values and cultural achievements of the Ancient world its ideas of beauty were also resurrected. Her pale complexion and red-coloured lips made Queen Elizabeth I a fashion icon whose look would inspire generations to come. Although eyebrows were still kept relatively understated, the Renaissance of make-up did also draw some focus back to accentuating brows. The women of the aristocracy during the Baroque

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PROMO

| Links 1934: Maybelline Cake Mascara, introduced in 1930 and Rococo periods combined fair make-up and thick brows. For those who lacked thick hair above their eyes or who had lost it due to the use of toxic cosmetic products, hair 118

pieces made of mouse fur were available to create the desired effect of a full brow. Heavily made-up faces weren’t just a current fashion trend but embodied your affiliation with the aristocracy. Only the industrial revolution of the 19th century, thanks to technical innovations and more efficient manufacturing processes, would make make-up affordable for everyone. Towards the end of the 19th and at the beginning of the 20th century this came into full effect: Several cosmetics manufacturers established brands that lay the foundations for

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our current cosmetics and fashion culture, many of them are still going strong today. Eugène Rimmel, Max Factor, T. L. Williams, Elizabeth Arden, Charles Revson and Estée Lauder were amongst the pioneers of an emerging beauty industry. Their curiosity and passion for aesthetics led them to develop what have become our make-up staples: lip stick, mascara, the perm and nail polish, to name just a few. The popularity of silent films with their dramatically made-up leading ladies increased the desire of the women in the audience to look like their silver screen heroines. Dramatic make-up was in such high demand that T. L. Williams, a chemist from New York and founder of the make-up giant Maybelline, started developing a special eye make-up. In 1913 he created »Cake

THE BUTTERFLY

Brow Gallery | Links Very high eyebrows, lined in deep black & thinned to the maximum 1934: American Actress Mae West Mascara« for lashes and eye brows. Inspired by his sister Mabel, who wanted to ensorcell a crush with an exciting new look, he combined coal dust and petroleum jelly to create his first eye make-up powder which was applied to the lashes and brows with a small brush. And it worked: Mabel thoroughly bewitched her beau with her dramatic eyes. Combining his sister’s name, Mabel, and that of the jelly, Vaseline, the company was called Maybelline. The product proved such a hit that the portfolio was soon expanded and eye shadow, skin care and eyebrow pencils were added. The first bottled mascara, much the same as we still use today, however, was invented by someone else: Helena Rubinstein filed a patent in 1957 for a viscous liquid for the thickening and

Marilyn Monroe

Edith Piaf

Edie Sedgwick

Marlene Dietrich

Greta Garbo

Brigitte Bardot

Click the camera for an image of the person lengthening of eye lashes’. A product of which beauty icons of the time ranging from Marlene Dietrich, Greta Garbo and Edith Piaf to Joan Crawford, Zarah Leander and Mae West soon took advantage. These stars of stage and film The popularity of (literally) silent films with gave the their dramatically first part made-up leading of the 20th ladies increased the century desire of the women the face in the audience to we know look like their silver t o d a y : screen heroines. They all wore their brows high, coloured in the darkest blacks and plucked extremely thin. Nothing had ever made as much of an impact on the fashion and make-

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PROMO

120

up world before as this look. At the end of the Golden Twenties, and the era of the thin brows, ANYTHING GOES a new style icon Beauty was needed in the most to mark the literal sense next step in the evolution possible, is in of eyebrow the eye of the f a s h i o n :

beholder

actress Audrey Hepburn. With

her naturally full and only slightly arched brows she famously led the fashion »back to the roots«. Women

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self-confidently embraced the new natural look and it not only created a trend but also accompanied the emancipation movement. This is particularly well illustrated by Frida Kahlo’s popularity. The Mexican painter and artist created a whole series of self-portraits showing her famous dark monobrow. By the way: The monobrow, although regarded a flaw today, used to be an aesthetic ideal. Today we enjoy unprecedented freedom in the treatment of our eyebrows. Plucking, waxing, dying, tattooing, laser treatment and even fake hair implants – anything goes. Beauty, in the most literal sense

THE BUTTERFLY

| Left Natural, slightly arched brows: 1954 Audrey Hepburn on the set of »Sabrina«. (Photo by Mondadori Portfolio via Getty Images) Middle Regarded as a flaw today-the monobrow: Mexican Painter Frida Kahlo, ca. 1940. (Photo by Ivan Dmitri/Michael Ochs Archives/Getty Images) }Right Authentic & Natural: 2014: Model Cara Delevingne in London. (Photo by Mike Marsland/WireImage) possible, is in the eye of the beholder. Trends are set in sociocultural epochs and a trend favouring natural, fuller eyebrows fits an individuality focussed generation because in an increasingly complex and artificial world authenticity is in higher demand than ever. Lily Collins, Cara Delevingne and Emma Watson wear their natural brows with confidence and show the world how beautiful they are – the bossy brow for women who won’t buckle if you like. Letting your brows grow the way nature intended them to will also allow you to reclaim the original physiological function performed by the naturally

arched brows: Leading sweat and dirt off the forehead away from your eyes. Eyebrows also fulfil an important function in interpersonal communication – only a full brow will allow you to communicate real emotions like admiration and amazement or a mischievous wink with one look. NATURAL BROW

MOVEMENT The trend towards natural, full brows as expression of individuality. Issue 18 | April 2015

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Inspired by our research on all shapes, forms and kinds of brows, we asked our make-up artist Lena Schleweis to approach the issue. ThisÂBeautyFeature, is the result â&#x20AC;&#x201C; with a focus on the beautiful curves that shape our faces.

For all of you wanting Cara-Delevingne-brows of their own: fear not, we have prepared a Tutorial for you on page 146. This shows you how to recreate the look from our photo shoot at home. Without the butterflies, of course!

r o

122

w Beauty

PHOTO Marco di Filippo STYLING Lena Schleweis MODEL

Annabell E.

ART DIR.

Thea Neubauer

PRODUCTION Trine Skauen Sandra Rothfeld

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Natural

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Issue 18 | April 2015

office Your brows are especially import-

ant when choosing frames. It looks especially nice, if your glasses follow the form of your brows. Golden model from Mykita: No.1 FLORENTINE

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night

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crazy

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We were seldom as euphoric as after our beauty shooting for #sisterMAG18. On relative short notice the team of photographer Marco, stylist Lena, producers Trine & Sandra and model Annabell (which you may remember from o e id

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the blouses #sisterMAG8 shooting at the Baltic Sea) met in Studio Chérie in Neukölln. We were carried away by the beautiful butterflies that we found thanks to some social media help of our readers. Lena worked a whole day on the eyebrows, stuck graceful butterflies with eyelash glue to the nose and glasses, thereby Annabell remained relaxed and in a good mood. We hope you like the results as much as we do! Click above to get a peek behind-the-scenes in the Making-Of Video .

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r o w Tutorial 2-IN-1

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BROWSATIN

THE BUTTERFLY

Step 1 Using the Liner Trace your brow with the fine liner. Shape and elongate the brow as you wish.

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Step 2 Using the Brow Powder Apply the matte brow powder and blend it in to fill in gaps and smooth over the appearance of your brow.

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PROMO

before

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For every hair and skin type: the matching Brow Satin Powder-Liner

three natural shades DARK BLOND MEDIUM BROWN DARK BROWN

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after Issue 18 | April 2015

PROMO

The perfect length for your eyebrow To get brows into their perfect shape and size, professionals use the ›pencil-test‹. We show how to apply this easy trick at home:

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Want even more information about brows? Visit the BROW STUDIO by Maybelline BROW CONSULTATION sister-mag.com

2 3

THE BUTTERFLY

Align the pen so that it connects your nostril with the inner corner of your eye. This is where your eyebrow ideally should begin. You can carefully pluck the other hair.

2 To define where your eyebrow should be arched, the pen should connect your nostril and the centre of your eye. You can now carefully remove the hair from beneath your brow to accentuate the shape.

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3 To find the perfect ending of your eyebrow, simply align the pen with your nostril and the outer corner of your eye. Remove all hair outside of this area. Good to know: slightly tapered brows make your face look softer.

Issue 18 | April 2015

Watch the sisterMAG tutorial where make-up artist Lena Schleweis shows you how to create perfect brows with the MAYBELLINE 2-in-1 BrowSatin.

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Butterfly Effect

text Al e xander Kords pictures Marco di Fil i ppo sister-mag.com

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Evan Treborn can travel in time. Specifically he can travel back in time when he reads from the journal he kept in his childhood. This puts him right back in the specific moment again. But: whenever he varies his behaviour »the second time around«, no matter how slightly, the effects on his current present are far reaching. Evan will suddenly re-emerge not at college but in prison for murder or find that both his hands have been amputated. This, in short, is what the 2004 film »The Butterfly Effect« starring Ashton Kutcher and Amy Smart is about. It explores the eponymous concept from chaos theory, a field of study on the intersection of mathematics and physics in which outcomes in dynamical systems cannot be determined despite the fact that their behaviour can be predicted. The Butterfly Effect describes a tiny change within a system which can lead to a surprising and completely unexpected outcome. This is best illustrated by the question that gave the effect its popular name:

»Does the flap of a butterfly’s wings in Brazil set off a tornado in Texas?« – The title of a lecture Edward Norton Lorenz gave to the American Association For The Advancement Of Science in 1972. Lorenz had studied mathematics and then served as a meteorologist for the United States Army Air Corps during World War II. Upon his return he decided to study meteorology and later held a professorship in the field at the renowned MIT in Cambridge, Massachusetts. In the 1960s he pioneered computer simulation in meteorology so as to better be able to predict certain weather phenomena. One day Lorenz performed a calculation involving the value 0.506127. When he set up a second round of computations he – trying to save time as well as then very expensive processing power on the calculator – entered 0.506 as the base value instead. Despite the seemingly minor change in value created by the omission of a few decimal places the calculation yielded vastly different results. It led Lorenz to the (correct) conclusion that the weather beco-

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mes wholly unpredictable if only the slightest change is made to the initial conditions. This was not only the end of the idea of reliable long-term weather forecasts it also marked the birth of a new science: Chaos Theory. Before its emergence the scientific belief was held that predictions about the future would be possible in any field as long as computers with sufficient processing powers were fed with a sufficient amount of data. Initially Lorenz deputized a sea bird in 156

his illustration, which would have given us the Seagull Effect, but then he changed his and went for the insect instead. The way the question is posed leads us to think that the butterfly is actually the initiator of the effect of the same name, i.e. that the flapping of wings somewhere in the world can actually cause severe weather. That, however, is not possible. What Lorenz wanted to show was that such a small action can derail an entire system and lead to a completely different outcome than what would have been expected.

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It is also not specifically about a small event at an early stage building up to a huge end result; that is known as a snowball effect and is most efficiently demonstrated in huge con schemes. Despite the Butterfly Effectâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s roots in meteorology the concept has applications in many different areas. The path the planets and moons track on their way through the universe is just as unpredictable as a traffic jam building up on a motor way. With one unwary driver hitting the brakes despite a clear road ahead, no accidents or road works are necessary to create an hour-long hold up. The metaphorical butterfly also likes flapping its wings at the stock market. When the situation in the Crimean got increasingly dicey about a year ago, the DAX plummeted by 10% in just a few weeks â&#x20AC;&#x201C; even though the peninsula does not hold any particular importance for either the German economy or the global financial markets. In 1997 and 1998 a burst credit bubble in Thailand, traditionally more of a financial light weight, led to a financial crisis in all of South-East Asia in the

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»Sensitivity on initial conditions« means that starting the pendulum in a slightly different position would cause drastically different behaviour.«

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course of which even the IMF had to step in injecting billions to help regulate the market. Pop culture creatives also occasionally rely on the Butterfly Effect – even beyond the film mentioned at the beginning. The 1998 film »Run Lola Run« shows the main character, played by Franka Potente, living through three versions of the same 20 minutes unfolding completely differently because she collides with a stroller or runs into a punk…or doesn’t. In 158

»DinoPark«, the Michael Crichton novel on which the film »Jurassic Park« is based , a series of minor incidents leads to a power cut in an electric fence thanks to which the dinosaurs can escape and claim an entire island. The team of scientists sent to the island to inspect the park includes a chaos theorist, Ian Malcolm – portrayed in the film by Jeff Goldblum –, who successfully identifies potential hazards but whose warnings aren’t heard. But the Butterfly Effect doesn’t only find its applications in meteorology, the stock market or fantasy worlds populated by genetically re-cre-

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ated dinosaurs and allowing for the miracle of time travel. Our own daily lives can be significantly influenced by seemingly unimportant events. We might miss a bus and, irritably marching off to the next stop, run into the love of our life. Or, too irritated to walk to the next stop, we might wait in the bus shelter and discover a lost 50$ bill under the bench. All the while the bus we missed hit traffic 500 yards into the journey because one idiot driver hit the brakes despite a clear road ahead. Coming full circle back to the film »The Butterfly Effect«: If the leading man and lady’s performance had wowed the critics back then as much as it did the writer of this article, Ashton Kutcher might not have succeeded Charlie Sheen on »Two And A Half Men« and Amy Smart would not have had to publically screw Jason Statham on »Crank« but instead they might have starred in an Academy Award nominated film and maybe even collected one of the golden boys themselves in the 11 years since. And all that stood in the way of it, in the end, was just the flapping of a butterfly’s wings.

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One flap of a butterfly's wing might cause a hurricane on the other side of the globe. 159

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Design Scent is an exclusive design house that crafts couture scent experiences. sisterMAG's Diana Patient talked to the founder Gemma Hopkins in London about a sensation that often is forgotten: the sense of smell

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Design in Scent

Text & Photos: Diana Patient

Issue 18 | April 2015

Gemma Hopkins sits holding a bottle of Moroccan Rose oil, one of our many props for today’s photoshoot. Other apparatuses and ingredients are being brought by Anastasia Brozler, a perfumer who works closely with

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The light pours into the townhouse on Arlington Street through an array of glass bottles containing a library of fragrances.

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Gemma for Design in Scent, but is most famous for pioneering Bespoke Perfumery in England twenty years ago. »She [Anastasia] is really rather bonkers« Gemma laughs »but in the most wonderful, delightful, sincere way. I adore her. She’ll be halfway through one thought when she has had

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a sudden idea about another one and she is off, and you’re running behind her desperately trying to keep up with her extraordinary imagination, and you know that she is just firing through these formulations in her head as she’s talking and wow, I’m quick but she is so much quicker!« Though I know canisters, frankincense, pipettes, myrrh, and about twenty other objects must be ingredients for scents, I have no idea what are placed on the grand wooden table at our disposal. »Anastasia knows a farmer in France who goes out into his fields and handpicks his lavender. He then presses it all by hand, and distills it by hand. It takes months and months to create and from it he only obtains one litre of lavender oil for the whole year. He was the only one in the village who did this and would just pour his litre of lavender oil into the same vat as the rest of the lavender farmers until Anastasia found him, of course. She is the one that gets his litre of lavender oil once a year and it is the most beautiful lavender oil you have ever smelt. Anastasia places

great emphasis on supporting reputable farmers that have been in the trade for many generations and extract their oils with great pride. I truly respect her expertise here as it is something that is increasingly forgotten in the modern world of perfumery.« Tucked behind The Ritz I feel I am being let in on a secret: the perfume industry is a very closed community, as Gemma informs me. I feel worldly as all the continents are being brought to us in scent form. We are in a far away land from the people I see out the window, marching obliviously along Piccadilly. Gemma Hopkins is the founder of Design in Scent, a company that works creatively with private clients, luxury brands and event planners to create olfactory experiences informed by research into how scent and memories are intertwined. There is the Signature Scent experience, which offers the ‘discerning client’ a chance to work with Design In Scent's senior

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perfumers to create a bespoke scent made entirely for them. The scent can then be incorporated into bespoke products that fit with an occasion, lifestyle or home. In fact, if you can dream it then it will be designed. All sorts of treasures are created here from scent jewellery designed by London’s finest jewellers, to bespoke glass bottles studded in diamonds, to candles made by England's top chandlers. After the photographing is done, Gemma and I make our way into

„

I've always been very creative. Scent was a new medium for my creativity.

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“

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Green Park to sit in the first sun of 2015. From the offset, it is quite clear to see Gemma lives and breathes her work. She speaks her thoughts as they come, and although our conversation is punctuated with talk of the shapes of clouds and 'I wonder where that plane is going?', her thoughts mostly take her to the world of Design in Scent. »Our Scent Salons, most of which have never been offered before, open the doors to this secretive scent world.« She is talking of her latest venture with perfumer Anastasia, masterclasses devised to entertain and to educate. Their first stop is Venice but Gemma is excited by the endless possibilities and her creativity begins to pour out. »We can hire a yacht to take guests on a tour around Europe with their noses. Our clients can compare twenty to thirty different jasmines – Indian, Arabian, Jungle, Egyptian, Himalayan – and decide which they believe to be the best in the world. They can travel the world

as they discover the ingredients within their Signature Scent and meet the farmers that grow them.« She talks delightedly about orchids that bloom once a year and other rare ingredients. She pulls story after story from an overwhelming amount of knowledge: I hear tales of Louis XV of France perfuming his fountains to the origins of the first ever perfume made–if you were wondering it is called Kyphi and originated in Ancient 165

Egypt. Gemma gained her expertise in the field of sensory branding, working on projects that immersed people in sensory environments and created emotional connections between brand and consumer. »I was working in high-end weddings and events and was looking to launch my own design company, but I wanted to do something different and take people on a journey using the senses. I started exploring suppliers that were outside the industry. I came across a sensory branding agency that I ended up working for–they were responsible

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for creating part of Heston Blumenthal’s

them feel something, taking them to

Fat Duck experience.

a place that they are not physically in.

I realised during that time that fragrance

They could be sat in a room and yet

has the power to transform and take you somewhere. Done correctly, it can create deep and lasting emotional connections between people, places and moments. We were working for brands such as Diageo and Burberry where it was all about creating an experience

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they’re floating through some memory that they have, which is amazing! And I thought: that’s it! This was all happening in the branding world, but I felt the type of emotional connection created between a consumer and a brand using scent was not being explored enough in

using scent and sound and connecting

the private sphere.«

to people’s unique memories. By

This is where Design in Scent was

connecting to people's memories, you

born.

can harness their emotion and make

discovering a world that she believes

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Gemma

began

journey

„

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I love what I am doing. I started doing it because I like to move people with what I am doing.

“ goes largely unrecognized in our fastpaced visual world. While we seek visual beauty in art and nature, have beautiful silks to touch, sample new cuisines for tastes, and indulge our ears with music, Gemma asks us other than buying the odd scented candle, how do we enrich our noses? »Scent has always featured in my life without me really realising it. [...] My two favourites are the smell of a roaring log fire: it’s home it’s warmth it’s comfort, and the smell of freshly cut grass for me is school, it’s my childhood making daisy chains in the field. I wanted to create a company that would use scent and give it credibility like we have given credibility to sight and sound and even tactiles. We rarely think about the cultivation and enrichment of our sense of smell. Fragrance speaks to your heart in a

way that other things don’t, so the idea is that we create a Signature Scent. We use leading perfumers and enable the client to indulge in what is a beautiful journey in and of itself. A personal pilgrimage which really draws out who you are and who you aspire to be, translating that into a scent. It’s about going back to a time when things were done properly. Everything is made bespoke. It is an opportunity in this visual fast world to take a moment’s respite. What Design in Scent offers is something truly blissful and familiar in an otherwise chaotic epoch. A scent for a client’s home, yacht, plane or car can mean that no matter where in the world they are, they feel at home.« She explains to me that when you smell something for the very first time, you store that smell away in your limbic system, a part of your brain

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â&#x20AC;&#x17E;

Smell can remind you of your childhood or a special point of time.

â&#x20AC;&#x153;

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associated with memories and feelings. When you store that scent away with the memory or emotion you are experiencing at the time, the next time you smell it, that memory or feeling is also reproduced. Owing to this extraordinary link, many things will remind you of your childhood because that is the first time you smelt them. You learn your cultural repertoire of scents mostly when you are a child, and as you get older you explore new scents that you have not yet connected with a memory. This is what Design In Scent does now. »We can connect with scents that are nostalgic to conjure up a feeling you already have or we create a new feeling and a new memory for the future with bespoke scent design–something you don’t already have a connection to.« It is true scent has the ability to take me back to different moments, such as an ex's perfume smelt on the tube, or fresh grass (the English child's perennial association to summer).

I ask her what her favourite scents are. »The scent of my beautiful boyfriend.« She says with genuine happiness. I joke at the possibility of her ‘going all Jean-Baptiste Grenouille from Perfume on him’ and trapping his scent in oil to distill it. »Maybe!« She laughs. And the scent that most moved her? »Really bizarre story, I was very sad to lose my grandfather at the age of about 15. It was very sudden and we were actually staying at his house to visit him in the hospital. I decided to sleep in his bed and under his pillow there was a pair of [clean] socks, and what possessed me to smell them - I don’t know! The socks smelt of imperial leather soap, fire – they [her grandparents] had a log fire so my love of that smell is probably where that comes from – and just his smell I suppose. Unfortunately that evening he died but the brain is very clever. The extraordinary thing is that in the same way smelling a smell can make you think about something or someone, sometimes you can smell something that isn’t there. [...] I would

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smell the smell of those socks and it wasn’t sadness but it made me think about him. It’s so powerful.«

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»I don’t think people realise how much humans have a scent. There are other cultures that place much more value on scent than we do. The Ongee people of the Adaman Islands are a tribe that believe the life force of all living beings resides in their smell, which comes from their bones. They touch the tip of their noses to refer to themselves because their olfactory nature has so much importance to them. It is their essence, it is their being. We are colder in that respect, more rational and would scoff at that idea, but actually how right are they because hasn’t everyone got a scent soul.« It is starting to get a little colder and darker in Green Park and the interview is coming to a close. Gemma is lost in thought for a while but her parting words to me, away from the mystery and polish of her wonderful business are thoughtful and genuine: »I hope that Design In Scent can bring a golden age of scent back and educate people to believe that scent isn’t just

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a frivolous luxury, it is something that can truly enhance you life. If people could just stop when they are walking in the park and use their noses to identify the perfume landscape around them, wouldn't that be incredible?« I agree. We say goodbye and Gemma disappears into London ready for her next chapter. Days later I find myself thinking about Gemma's words. What scents are there left to discover and what memories are about to be attached to them? I stop on my way to a meeting, close my eyes and breath in. I don’t smell much at first, but then my senses start to sort out the olfactory landscape. The smell of summer in the air, the London dust, the perfume I chose when I was eighteen, the greenery around me. Maybe in the future if I find these smells in one place again, it will take me back here to this very moment in time.

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Moths Inspired by sisterMAG's insects theme, illustrator and creator Alice Williamson (@designedbyalice) sat down and created beautiful moths out of fabrics, wire and twine. Moths are more than clothes-eating insects: They are butterflies and are in their own way fluffy beautiful. On the following pages Alice shows you how to recreate the delicate creatures with your own designs out of leftover fabrics.

CREATION Alice Williamson PHOTOS Ashley Lud채scher

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See more pictures of the moths by clicking the gallery icon.

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Tutorial

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WHAT YOU NEED

## hand dyed silks ## wadding ## net for the wings ## wire & wool to cover the wire

1 Cut out wings and draw on fabric with a permanent marker. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also possible to add pops of colour as embellishments at this stage. See another picture here

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2 Hand or machine embroider textiles together, creating a quilted effect.

3 Make

a cone shape by sewing the two sides of a triangle together and stuff to form the body of the moth. Another picture here

4 Thick wire is needed for the insects limbs. It must be shaped into the eyes and legs, and can then either be bound in wool or painted black.

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5 A

thinner wire is needed for the antenna and wing embellishments.

6 Sew

wire embellishments to moth body, adding optional â&#x20AC;şfurry detailsâ&#x20AC;š!

7 Attach the wings by sewing them to the cone-shaped body and also attach a wire hook to hang / fly it from.

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SHARE Click on the symbols below to share this project on Twitter or Facebook

If you make one of Alice's moths, please share a picture of it with us (@sister_mag) and Alice (@designedbyalice) with the hashtag #足sisterMAG18! We will retweet or repost!

Issue 18 | April 2015

Ladybirds overwinter. And just as spring comes around, they wake up. That's why we have put together a whole section about the topic of sleep. Enjoy!

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All You Need Is

SLEEP sister-mag.com

THE LADYBIRD

18 days, 21 hours, 40 minutes: the longest time a human being has managed to survive without sleep. Even though this experiment did not cause any longterm damage, various effects generated by sleep deprivation could be observed: mood swings, decreased ability to concentrate, paranoia and hallucinations.

TEXT: Thea Neubauer PHOTOS: Diana Patient MUA: Nina Jackson STYLING: Maureen

achinetti & Francesca F Prizzon MODEL: Jordan @Premier

If you have ever only slept for 3-5 hours several days in a row, you were probably able to notice the same symptoms. The launch phases of sisterMAG tend to bring mood swings and exhaustion to my everyday life, from which the people around me suffer as much as I do. I have often been sent home by the others to get some rest and indeed a good night's sleep improves my mood and the way I feel about myself. Sleeping well and enough is essential for living a healthy and active life which is why we decided to dedicate an entire sisterMAG N°18 feature to sleep. You'll read about everything that makes a good night's sleep, what it is – or isn't. We met different kinds of women who suffer from sleep deprivation, spoke to Prof. Dr. med. Ingo Fietze from the centre for sleep medicine at the Charité Berlin and gathered tips and tricks which will help you to sleep longer and better. What we learned was most definitely that the topic 'sleep' is of such extent that we only managed to touch the surface with these few pages. But back to the beginning: who even gave us the idea to start thinking about this topic?

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SLEEPDEPRIVATIONPOR Julia is 31 years old, she was born in Cologne and moved to Berlin a few years ago. We visited her to see how things really are. Does she suffer from sleep deprivation?

JULIA, 31 J.

Sleep deprivation is as much part of my life as my morning coffee: I work in an agency that offers media monitoring services. We specialise in generating press reviews for companies and organizations. Our busiest production hours are 6 am to 12 pm so in order to make it to the office on time in the morning I get up at 5am. And since I almost never make it to bed before 10pm I get seven hours of sleep tops. Often it is actually less since I also have a social life… What do you do to prevent this? Do you have things or rituals that help you with falling asleep?

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I try to go to bed on time as often as possible. I read for a while until I can’t keep my eyes open any longer, that usually works well. An eye mask made of soft fabric filled with quinoa and lavender also helps. How does sleep deprivation affect your life? Do you notice changes in your skin? I’m in my early 30s so I should probably expect to have a few light wrinkles but I also think that my working hours promote these. The skin around my eyes is quite creased and in the morning I often look like an owl that can’t get its eyes to open properly.

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THE LADYBIRD

RTRAITS

If you need less than 5 minutes to fall asleep, it is very likely to be a sign of sleep deprivation. The ideal time lies between 10 and 15 minutes, which means that you are tired enough to sleep properly but don't feel exhausted throughout the day.*

What is your evening routine? Which products do you use? I use a gel to remove my makeup and then a cleansing toner. Afterwards I use a night lotion that minimizes early wrinkles and has a wonderfully rosy smell. I use a Midnight Recovery Creme to combat puffy eyes and dark circles. What do you expect when reading the hashtag #WakeUpBeautiful? Waking up in the morning and feeling good: no pimple-prone grey or pale skin or puffy eyes but a fresh and radiant face and beautifully smooth skin. That would be nice!

* SOURCE: The National Sleep Research Project. 40 Amazing Facts About Sleep

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Eight Tips For a Good Sleeping Environment: 1. A quiet, calm room – your bedroom should not be disturbed by loud noise. 2. The ideal bedroom temperature is at 17°–21°C (62.5°–70°F). Your room should be aired regularly 15 minutes before going to bed and after getting up in the morning 3. The bedroom should be dark when sleeping.

6. Cool colours are relaxing so blues and greens are the best colours for a bedroom. 7. Recommended humidity of a bedroom: 45-65%. 8. Don't put plants in your bedroom - they may produce oxygen by day, but when it is dark, plants produce damaging carbon dioxide.

4. Use your bed to sleep in it - not to watch TV or work. The body unconciously gets used to these activites. 187

5. Put an apple on your beside table - this ancient household remedy helps with relaxtion. Fotos: Cristopher Santos

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ASTRID 31 YEARS PHOTOS: Mirjam Klein

Astrid (born in Cologne) is 31 years old, and currently lives in Marburg, where she studied medicine. Today, she is a trained urologist, but decided to make a change and now is in a five year surgical residency. The little free time she has is spent by cooking, baking and eating. Astrid also loves fashion, Yoga, skiing, snow and the mountains. And chocolate (»yes i know it's bad for the skin but it's soulfood«). s isterMAG wanted to know how someone with a schedule like Astrid's deals with SLEEP.

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I have been working on a surgical intensive care unit since November. I do five consecutive days of 13 hour shifts followed by five days off. I don’t have to do night shifts but some days I don’t make it home before 10 pm with the usual household chores still waiting to be done. So it can get very late very quickly and then the alarm goes off after just a few hours. Mine goes off particularly early, usually at 5.30 am. But I found I can combat short nights and a lack of sleep with a proper sit-down breakfast and a nice relaxing cup of tea. From May I will have to do 24 hour shifts again. In surgery that actually means an entire day of work. No sleep, but a lot of running around. I get to go home in the morning but my body will remind you of the sleepless night. The Friday/ Sunday shift is as common as it is taxing but if you love your job you’ll manage even that.

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17 hours of being awake lead to a decrease in performance equivalent to a blood alcohol concentration of 0,05%.*

What do you do against sleep deprivation? What helps you to fall asleep? I’m in a strange mood after a 24 hour shift. I had those in urology, too, so I know what they do to me. Tired on the one hand but, depending on what might have happened during the night, also excited. Enjoying a good long breakfast, relaxing in the bathroom for a while and taking a nap usually does me a world of good though. A good book also helps. Having a last cup of tea or hot ginger brew in bed at night can help relax. If you get cold easily try taking a hot water bottle to bed with you. They make for warm feet which in turn makes for a good night’s sleep. How does sleep deprivation affect your life?

* SOURCE: The National Sleep Research Project. 40 Amazing Facts About Sleep

A lack of sleep makes me unbalanced and irritable. An irregular sleep pattern also promotes migraines. My skin doesn’t take it lightly either. I get vascular drawings on my cheeks and it is generally dryer, more pimple-prone and has more blemishes than usual. If you are too tired for an extensive facial cleansing regime at night your skin will complain! The dark circles under my eyes don’t exactly help to make me look good either. What when

comes to your mind reading the hashtag

#WakeUpBeautiful? #WakeUpBeautiful is a great slogan! It puts me in mind of a calm and quiet morning with blue skies and the sun just peeping in through the window. Getting get up slowly, taking a deep breath, looking into the mirror and thinking, ‘Good morning beautiful lady. You’re looking particularly lovely today. All fresh-faced and beaming!’

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SLEEPDEPRIVATIONPORTRAITS

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CAROLIN 32 YEARS PHOTOS: Isabelle Wistuba

Carolin lives in an old royal residence town near the Harz mountains together with her husband and three children. She studied art history and german, but soon realized that, due to her three small kids, a traditional career was not for her. Looking for something to do, she dusted off her old sewing machine and started creating all sorts of things for her kids and later for her blog theblogbook.eu . Things she also loves: chocolate, books and rearranging her flat.

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For anyone who has small children sleepless or sleep deprived nights are nothing special. And with your first child it’s not such a big problem because you can get a nap during the day when the baby is sleeping. With three children, however, it’s not so easy as your day just never stops. Our youngest daughter had trouble sleeping from the start. For the first weeks she would only sleep on our stomachs and my husband and I had to take turns because there is only so long you can lie perfectly still (we managed about two hours each). She is 3 1/2 now and still comes into our room every night. I don’t actually mind that as we have a spare mattress under our bed which I can just pull out but it screwed up my sleeping pattern so much that I don’t even sleep through the night when the children aren’t there. Also, once I wake up I find it very hard indeed – and more often than not impossible – to go back to sleep. The thoughts start whirling through my head and just won’t stop. This has been particularly bad for the past two years in which we

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have faced existential threats and economical problems. What do you do to combat these issues? Do you have things that help you get to sleep? One thing that actually helps me sleep is my husband who is the one who gets up at night. He has no problem whatsoever rising in the middle of the night and then lying back down and getting right back to sleep. Sometimes I really envy him! ;) When it’s really bad and I notice during the evening that I won’t be able to find rest I might take valerian. But I don’t like taking sleeping medicine I am scared of the

potential side effects and not being able to react quickly enough should there be a problem with the children. What effects does the lack of sleep have on your life? I often look very pale, tired and have circles in varying degrees of darkness under my eyes. Some days I actually get scared when I look in the mirror. I also find it hard to concentrate, I am impatient with the people around me and lack efficiency in the things I want to do. I am basically not myself a lot of the time which is just horrible. My skin which is pretty dry anyway gets even dryer and looks like it has been sapped of all energy. This is also true for my hair by the way!

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What does your evening skin care ritual look like? To be completely honest, more often than not I am too tired in the evening for a proper skin care regime and just brush my teeth. I do have a cleansing lotion, toner and night cream on my bathroom shelf and on a good day I will use them. What image comes to your mind when you see the hashtag #WakeUpBeautiful?

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I see myself standing in front of a fluffy bed with white linen holding a mug of café au lait in my hands wearing a comfy top and pants as my pyjamas. My hair might be a bit messy as I stand there in the morning light but I definitely don’t have dark circles under my eyes!

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MICHAELA 35 Y Michaela is the mother of three boys (11, 8 years and 6 months), she is a full time mom, creative blogger, a kind of ‘social seamstress’, queen of saws, family manager, vegetable garden and dog owner. Her days tend to be long, but are definitely too short.

What does your everyday life look like? Why do you suffer from sleep deprivation? My lack of sleep is easily explained by my baby. I remember how positively flabbergasted I was when I realised that (obviously, really) babies don’t sleep through the night. I don’t think anyone who

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YEARS

hasn’t experienced it themselves can imagine what it is like to be woken up every 2 to 4 hours. With my first child, adjusting my sleeping pattern was extremely hard. With the second child it was much easier. Now we had our third I know what it’s like and am quite fine with the fact that somebody else decides how I spend my nights. ;-).

us when the older brothers also join.

What do you do to combat these issues? Do you have things that help you get to sleep?

through a proper skin care routine.

I fall asleep very easily and without any help. I think my body can tell that »it’s time to sleep now« and voilá - I am out. ;-) Also, we practice co-sleeping. We attached a bassinette to our bed. This way we still have enough room but don’t need to get up when the baby needs us or it’s time to breast feed. We are both able to go right back to sleep after. In the morning the three of us enjoy the chance to cuddle. More often than not it’s actually the five of

How does sleep deprivation affect your life? Which changes do you notice in your skin? At the moment my skin feels rather impure and blemishes are common. It is also quite dry. I admit that in the evening I am often too tired to go It’s a pity though. What does your evening routine look like? Do you use any specific products? Just a cleansing lotion, really. But at the moment I have to admit I don’t use it regularly. What do you think about when reading the hashtag #WakeUpBeautiful? A radiant complexion, no dark circles and clear skin.

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ALL ABOUT

FROM FALLING ASLEEP TO DEEP SLEEP.

SLEEP

The sleep-wake-cycle is a natural rythm, which defines our lives. But there are different phases:

The transition between being awake and being asleep, when the body is calming down, is

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called sleep onset phase . Breathing and pulse get more frequent, muscles relax and brainwaves slow down.

Phase I SLEEP ONSET PHASE

Phase II LIGHT SLEEP

light sleep The phase is divided into two phases. For a short time (about 10 minutes) all muscles relax, shortly interrupted by irregular twitches. Phase III & IV Afterwards, all muscles relax completely. Afterwards, the deep sleep phase initiates. During this phase, it is very hard to wake somebody up because the actual recovery happens. More about this on the next pages.

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DEEP SLEEP PHASE

REM-SLEEP OR DREAM SLEEP

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Phases I to IV are repeated several times. After respectively 60 to 90 minutes the REM-sleep also dream sleep commences. During the REM (Rapid Eye Movement) phase, the brain is very active while the muscles are relaxed so dreams are Duration of not transferred into movements.

REM-sleep increases

AWAKE REM

NREM

1 2 3 195

Time 0

HOW MUCH SLEEP IS NECESSARY?

16 HOURS

10 HOURS

8 HOURS

6 HOURS

Babies

3-12

13-18

19-55

65+

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CONSEQUENCES OF SLEEP DEPRIVATION

CONSEQUENCES FOR THE SKIN

Physical Consequences

Worse carbohydrate metabolism HIgher blood sugar levels (Glucose) Production of thyroid hormones gets messed up High production of stressinduced Cortisol

sister-mag.com sister-mag.de

Mental Consequences

Studies show that sleep deprivation makes us short-tempered, jumpy and suspicious Depression Hallucinations

Tired Appearance Dark Circles around the eyes Dry, uneven & pale complexion Red skin Wrinkles

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WANT TO BE BEAUTIFUL? SLEEP!

… DEEP SLEEP The two most important processes during the deep sleep phase:

YOUR SKIN WITHOUT SLEEP

7 Uhr

40%

75%

2. »Calm« (Reinvigoration of the confining EEP function by reducing inflammatory cells) L S Y H T EAL H H G U ENO N/ O I T A V RI P E D P SE A H P SLEE EP E L S EEP D G IN MISS

35%

Regeneration of the skin: 100%

1. »Stimulate« (Cell division)

23 Uhr

3 Uhr

Our skin uses sleep to regenerate. If this important time is interrupted, 'repairs' can't take place - this Fine Lines & Discolourations has unpleasant results Acne for our skin . Wrinkles

SLEEP DEPRIVATION CAN HAVE GRAVE CONSEQUENCES FOR YOUR SKIN, ESPECIALLY WHEN YOU MISS OUT ON A »DEEP SLEEP PHASE«.

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Prof. Dr. med. Ingo Fietze, born in

SLEEP

QUESTIONS with Prof. Dr. med. Ingo Fietze

Why do we sleep?

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Because our brain needs a break. It can only maintain »reception mode« for about 16 hours at a time. After that period it needs to detox. Sleeping also saves energy, helps strengthen the immune system and gives us a physical as well as psychological rest.

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1960, works as head of department for internal medicine at the Charité Berlin. He is in charge of the sleep laboratory and the interdisciplinary centre for sleep medicine. He is chairman of the Deutschen Stiftung Schlaf.

All this is important if you want to live a long and healthy life. Is there such a thing as good sleep and bad sleep? There is good, sensitive and bad sleep just like there are people with dry, oily or sensitive skin and those with more serious skin conditions. Sensitive sleepers are easily woken by noise, a partner moving next to them or a lack of comfort. Their sleep tends to vary between good and bad.

THE LADYBIRD

Why should you go to sleep before midnight? Between 10pm and midnight it is easiest to fall asleep and also sleep right through the night because the amount of sleep hormones released increases while our body temperature decreases. What happens to the body while we are sleeping? Muscles relax and so does the brain (except when we’re dreaming). The entire body’s settings switch to »low«; our pulse, blood pressure, breath and metabolism are all slowed down. Other processes are more active, however, like the renewal process of the immune system. There are different phases of sleep, but which is the most important one? The so-called deep sleep, also known as slow wave sleep. It should make up 15 – 20% of our night’s rest. How much sleep does a human being need? Between 7 and 7.5 hours right up until old age. People who need less than 6 or more than 9 hours are the exception.

How does a lack of sleep occur? This can be self-inflicted by not taking enough time to sleep or working in shifts. But it can also be rooted in a lack of sleep quality due to snoring and related breathing issues, restless legs or similar phenomena. What effects can a lack of sleep and sleep deprivation have? The first capacities to suffer will be your concentration, memory, mental agility, mood and temper. Then you’ll notice a lack of strength which can weaken your skin, muscles, bones, cardiovascular system and sugar metabolism and even detrimentally affect your life expectancy.

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Why is it that sometimes you just can’t seem to fall asleep even though you are very tired?

Early birds and night owls – are there really different kinds of people?

There are many possible reasons like too many thoughts going round in your head, exercising too late at night, a late caffeinated drink. You might have fallen asleep in front of the TV set or while reading a book and already got some sleep which took the edge off. If this happens more than three times a week though it can be classified as a falling asleep disorder called insomnia.

Yes, their inner clocks are off. The are either fast or slow. There is no scientific consensus so far as to which version is better and which is worse though.

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What makes a good sleeping environment? What does the ideal place to sleep look like? A comfortable place to sleep in a cool (17°–21°C / 62.5°–70°F), darkened and quiet room

Sleep expert Ingo Fietze comprehensibly describes important facts & interesting knowledge about sleep.

Is power napping the way to go? Yes, it works but only for a generally ‘good sleeper’ who gets tired during the day due to temporary lack of sleep.

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Ingo Fietze: Über guten und schlechten Schlaf (Only available in German) Hardcover

| eBook

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Most of what we know about sleep today has been discovered in the past 25 years.*

Certain eye movements during the REM-sleep correlate to movements of the body which indicates that a part of our dreams is like watching a movie.*

* SOURCE: The National Sleep Research Project. 40 Amazing Facts About Sleep

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SLEEP

FOR HEALTHY, BEAUTIFYING SLEEP

HACKS Try to stick to your sleeping routine on weekends. Don't exercise before sleeping Don't consume caffeine after 2 pm 202

Don't drink alcohol before going to sleep Don't eat or drink a lot straight before heading to bed. Don't take naps after 3 pm. Power naps should never be longer than one hour. Relax before going to bed Take a warm bath Remove all distractions from your bedroom Go to bed between 10 pm and midnight Switch off all electronic/mobile devices 30 minutes before going to bed. Wash your pillow cover at least once a week. Make your room as dark as possible

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1 Sleep Sleep Cycle Power Cycle heart rate Nap We develop games and health apps. Northcube STARTUP SPOTLIGHT is a leading Swedish app developer studio focussing on health and northcube.com game apps, with its head office in Gothenburg Sleep Cycle on iTunes Sweden. We promote Sleep Cycle in Google Play a fun and passionate

IDEA company culture where play and business are equally important. We usually say: at Northcube waking up is easy and the fun never ends. One of our most successful applications is Sleep Cycle alarm clock, founded in 2009 and today the most selling paid health app globally and number one intelligent bio-alarm clock in the world.

204 Sleep Cycle alarm clock makes waking up easy by monitoring signals from your body to wake you up in the lightest sleep phase. Waking up in light sleep feels like waking up naturally rested without an alarm clock. Sleep Cycle tracks your sleep and presents your sleep patterns in easy to read graphs, giving you the information you need to understand your sleep patterns and find ways to improve your sleep.

TASK

When placed next to you in bed, Sleep Cycle alarm clock utilizes the smartphoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sensitive accelerometer to tracksyour movements and identify the sleep phase you are in. Using a predefined 30-minute alarm window that ends at your desired wakeup time, Sleep Cycle will monitor signals from your body during that time frame to wake you up gently when you are in

the lightest possible sleep phase. By waking up in light sleep, you wake up feeling rested. Sleep Cycle alarm clock tracks information needed to wake users in light sleep and factors relevant to users trying to understand their sleep patterns, including; bedtime, wake-up time, compiled time in bed, morning heart rate, sleep quality, sleep notes and wake-up mood. All

users

can

edit

THE LADYBIRD

INSPIRATION

We spend a third of our

sleep by waking up rested

lives sleeping, but until

at the perfect time. Back

recently knew very little

then, most sleep trackers

about how we actually

available

sleep.

for

and required a lot of set

Sleep Cycle began with

up, and he was looking

a personal experiment.

for something that was

Maciek

the

easy to use, affordable

founder of Sleep Cycle

and portable. At the time,

and CEO of Northcube,

the iPhone had recently

wanted to find a way to get

been launched and it was

the most out of his own

the one device he always

The

idea

Drejak,

were

pricey

carried with him, day and night. With the iPhone as the perfect device already available, he decided the best way to find what he was looking for was to build an intelligent alarm clock and sleep tracker himself, one that didnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t require any additional device. Thatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s how Sleep Cycle alarm clock was born. 205

their own sleep notes, enabling them to add only those relevant to them personally. Before bed upon turning the app on, the user is presented with their personal sleep notes and asked to check the relevant ones. Upon wake-up the user is asked to grade their wake-up mood on a scale of emoticons. After putting in wake-up mood on the scale, users who have activated heart rate readings will also

be asked to place their finger on the camera lens to record their wake-up resting pulse. Sleep Cycle then gathers all this information and presents it in easy-to-read graphs, providing users with the information and correlations they need to understand their sleep patterns and find ways to adjust their lifestyle and improve their sleep.

MEASURING SLEEP

What affects our sleep patterns is different from person to person. This is why the function of tracking sleep and giving its users all the information they need to understand their own sleep patterns and find ways to improve them is such an important function of Sleep Cycle. And consequently what helps users improve their sleep and wake-up energized.

SLEEPING PATTERNS

6 Products and services that help us improve and optimize everyday life are here to stay. Technology that is too complicated or doesn’t serve a clear purpose in our lives quickly disappears after the hype is over. By constantly staying updated on new emerging technologies and

developments, we make sure we know what’s going on. In terms of new exciting opportunities, there will always be plenty. We make sure that any development or integration will add value to the users experience before moving forward, without changing the core of Sleep Cycle. We

stay true to our aim, which is always making sure Sleep Cycle wakes people up easily, is simple and uncomplicated to use, as well as provides information that is easy to read and understand. A great example is our collaboration with Philips Hue, where we enable users the option of also

Different to other sleep trackers, what sets Sleep Cycle apart and what our users love is that it doesn’t require an additional device in order to work. Sleep Cycle is simple to use and right there in your phone, which is probably the one thing you carry with you wherever you go. A wearable device is a separate device connected to your phone

by an app displaying the information your wearable device gathers. With Sleep Cycle, it is in your phone and works by utilizing the phone's built-in accelerometer. This means you do not have to go out and buy a new product in order to use Sleep Cycle, its right there in your phone and all it requires is a simple app download for it to work.

Easy, it tracks sleep cycles and it wakes you in light sleep = Sleep Cycle alarm clock

COMPETITORS

NAME

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FUTURE PLANS

being woken up by light, without it affecting their user experience with Sleep Cycle. Another great example is Sleep Cycles integration with Runkeeper, a service that just like Sleep Cycle doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t require any additional device to work. When activated, Sleep Cycle communicates with

your Runkeeper app to let it know how much sleep you got during night, which is very useful when following up on training results and setting workout goals.

FINANCE

Through company revenue. 207

Orange radiates warmth and happiness and the dark colour of the user interface is to communicate serenity around bedtime, making sure no harsh light hits the users before sleep.

Not much, but the sleep I got was high quality sleep and Sleep Cycle made sure I woke up rested in light sleep haha.

Get to know your own sleep patterns. Only you can know what needs to be done to improve your sleep. Once you have a clear picture of what your sleep looks like you can start to find ways to improve it.

COLOURS

SLEEP

SLEEP TIP

Text: Elisa von Hof Layout: Helena Melikov

SLEEPING RAVES The early bird dances

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Berlin, it's 6.30 am on an ordinary Wednesday morning. A colourful crowd of party people is standing shivering and chattering in front of a Berlin club at Friedrichshain. Those who think, these are night owls thrown out of a closing club who are now heading home after a long night out, those are wrong. These people are waiting at the entrance in order to dance before work – and they’re willingly giving up on some hours of sleep for that.

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The first meeting is planned for ten o’clock, telephone conferences and full to-do-lists follow, a business lunch is scheduled and at the end of day, you intend to go to the gym – if you wonder when there will be time for a party with your friends when faced with this daily programme, you might be perfectly right for Breakfast Clubbing: partying before working life even begins. Starting at 6.30 am until late morning, dance-crazed workaholics and everybody who likes to get up early and move may begin the day together. One of these

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new party concepts is the worldwide party series »Morning Gloryville« which invites to dance in Berlin since December. It is more than a simple trend, these pre-work parties rise to the position of a global phenomenon: In San Francisco, New York, Tokyo, Melbourne, Barcelona, Paris, London and eleven other metropolises early birds are dancing. They call their concept »Conscious Clubbing« as it is about the joy of moving and having fun together – without drugs, alcohol or sleepless nights. Instead, these ravers want to welcome the day freshly and brightly, loosen the joints with a few yoga exercises and shake off the fatigue with an extensive dance before they had off to the office. Is that the revolution routine? Shortly before 7 o’clock, sceptically in the line the »Neue Heimat«

of morning I’m standing in front of in Berlin-

Morning Gloryville SERIES OF PARTIES, THAT INVITES BERLINERS TO DANCE IN THE MORNING sister-mag.com

Conscious Clubbing PARTY CONCEPT, WHERE THE JOY OF MOVING AND HAVING FUN TOGETHER IS THE MAIN FOCUS Friedrichshain. The halls’ nickname compares them lovingly with a place for techno and prostitution, but now, more and more people are gathering here. Colourful garlands, vibrating basses and a big »Good Morning!« sign welcome us and make clear that this is not for people who are grumpy in the morning. At the beginning, the organisers explain that all tickets for this Morning Rave have been sold. 600 guests are expected at this Wednesday morning. And they come. Not later than 8.30 am, the halls are jam-packed. Age restriction? There is none. At the Morning Gloryville, the youngest early bird is about two years old, the oldest who is also quite known by Berlin’s rave scene is at the age of 75. Students are dancing with seniors, mummies with toddlers (ear protection of course), Berlin artists with business men. They are all united by the good mood which can actually be quite obtrusive when you’ve not slept in due to the early hour. After the first two warm up

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OVER 600 PartY GUESTS THE YOUNGEST GUEST IS 2 YEARS OLD, THE OLDEST 75 YEARS! songs at the latest, the positive energy rises – even mine. Well-known DJs as Alle Farben or Annie O who is also well known behind London turntables care for good vibes. If fatigue is trying to overtake you might try yoga, get a nice back massage or push your party mood with a beautiful glitter makeup. Thank God, I don’t have to skip breakfast: Instead of cocktails and beer, they serve smoothies at the Breakfast Raves as well as freshly squeezed juices, vegan brownies and so called »energy balls« which are slushy chocolate balls. Still, there is one drug left: caffeine in all its varieties in order to stay awake and still have enough energy for work, of course. Marta Cornellana who is organising the Berlin Breakfast Rave brought the idea from London. Together with the yoga teacher Tom Barber she tried to enthuse the world-famous Berlin techno scene about getting up early. Therefore, they were looking for a location that lets daylight in and offers enough space for other activities aside

the dance floor. The »Neue Heimat« is exactly the place they were looking for. At beginning of the rave, it is still dark outside and while dancing under the ceiling windows you can watch the sun rising little by little. The number of participants shows that Cornellana who is a Berliner-by-choice hit the capital’s mark with her crazy idea to turn day into night. It’s been 400 guests at the first rave and 200 more at the second, with rising tendency. Drug-free parties as early-morning exercises seem to make a lot of sense with respect to the organic and healthy life trends. Giving up on a few hours of good night’s sleep and leaving the cosy warmth of a bed for a party only seems to be an absurd idea while the alarm is ringing. After the first long morning of dancing, most of the ravers (and me) know for sure that they will continue dancing next month, true to the motto »Eat, sleep, rave, repeat«. The trend towards pre-work parties has long been established. However, when I left the Morning Rave with the last party guests, I was not so sure anymore whether an office job is calling for most of them or not.

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Where the earthworm lives, we find most of our ingriedients of this section: root vegetables and asparagus. Just as root veggies have developed to be a trend food, the city of Portland is quite a Hipster trend town. We investigate!

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Text IRA HÄUSSLER Photos JEFF WASSERMANN

Issue 18 | April 2015

History ROOT VEGETABLES DURING THE CENTURIES

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Neither the prefix ›root‹ nor its usually bulbous appearance set you in mind of a wonderfully versatile and generally great vegetable. But upon investigation you soon discover that even our ancestors were already well aware of its excellent properties: People have eaten root and tuber vegetables for ages. Although the primal varieties were much bitterer and less sweet than the cultivations we consume today, they did make up a significant part of our ancestors’ diets. Egyptians and Romans relied on the filling properties of tuber vegetables on

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their military campaigns, and in the 14th century juices and oils won from parsnips were used to combat the plague. Any variety of root vegetable from radishes to beet root has its own deep figurative roots in history - being the wallflower class of vegetables they could be relied upon as a staple even in times of war. Over the past few years root vegetables have shed their reputation as poor people’s food, and thanks to their beneficial properties, claimed their rightful place as trendy food stuffs.

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Classification »ROOT« MEANS ANY UNDERGROUND PART OF A PLANT

›Root vegetables‹ is a trade term which doesn’t derive from any botanical properties. That makes it difficult to categorize individual

vegetables. Commonly though a differentiation is made between tuber vegetables and bulbous plants.

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Spring onions

Wild garlic

Shallots

Onions

Carrots

Horseradish

(Red) radishes

Beet root

Sweet potatoes

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Garlic

BULBOUS PLANTS

TUBER VEGETABLES

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Health –&–

Benefits

Behind the rough skin and often unattractive exterior of your average root vegetable there is a wholly unexpected wealth of beneficial properties to be discovered making these food stuffs from deep within the soil not just wonderfully tasty and versatile but also good for you and your body. Growing deep within the ground far away from the sunlight root vegetables are full of minerals and also contain vitamins A, B and C as well as iron and antioxidants. Even carbohydrates which often get a rough deal when diets are discussed are real assets in root vegetables because they burn extra slowly which makes you full for longer while keeping the energy flow steady. But that’s not all: Scorzonera, also known as viper’s grass, for example contains insulin, making

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it an excellent food for diabetics as it helps balance your blood sugar levels. Parsnips, thanks to their essential oils, promote digestion; horseradish with its high levels of vitamin C has anti-microbial properties, and beets can lower the risk of cardio vascular diseases. The list of benefits is endless. This goes to show that even with root vegetables it’s the inner beauty that really matters.

Issue 18 | April 2015

sisterMAG Info Feature Nutrition

Text IRA HÄUSSLER Photos SUSANNE SCHANZ

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Asparagus season starts at the beginning of April and ends on 24 June. That’s because from 24 June it will be at least 100 days until the first frost. This period of time is needed to grow the socalled asparagus fern which promotes photosynthesis which in turn helps the new shoots for next year’s harvest to grow. White asparagus is grown in heaped-up rows of soil, the harvest is referred to as ‘cutting’ and takes place as soon as the asparagus heads emerge from the soil heaps. Cutting asparagus is a delicate procedure and mistakes can easily release bitter substances which render the vegetable inedible. This cultivation method is the biggest difference between white and green asparagus with the latter growing in direct sunlight which makes for a higher concentration of chlorophyll and hence the green color. This also results in a difference in preparation methods. White asparagus needs to be cleaned and peeled carefully while cutting off the wooden base and lightly peeling the lower parts will do the trick for the green variety. In order to be able to enjoy asparagus out of season it is best to freeze the peeled and cleaned vegetables. They will last for 6 to 8 months and can be put from the freezer straight into boiling water and served after a cooking time of 12 minutes.

Interview WITH NUTRITION EXPERT D IPL. O EC. TRO PH . SILK E L AM M ER S For #sisterMAG18 we sat together with a nutrition expert again and asked a lot of questions around plantbased nutrition, asparagus and root vegetables. Read some interesting insights on the following pages.

ROOT VEGETABLES AND ASPARAGUS: SHOULD WE EAT THESE VEGETABLES AND IF SO, WHY AND HOW OFTEN?

Asparagus and root vegetables are the perfect foods to get us back into shape after the winter. They are bursting with vitamins, minerals, phytochemicals and fibres but they contain hardly any fat. Since every kind of vegetable has its own unique combination of valuable ingredients make your selection spans the entire colour palette (red-green-yellow). A more varied intake will provide your body with more valuable substances. Three servings (400 g) of fresh or lightly cooked vegetables a day should be your minimal standard.

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History ASPARAGUS DURING THE CENTURIES

WHAT ARE THE ADVANTAGES OF A MAINLY PLANT-BASED DIET?

Credit for both the word ›aspáragos‹ itself and the first reference to it come from Greece where the physician Hippocrates (~460–370 BC) first wrote about the plant’s health benefits. But its ultimate cultivation as a food and eventual popularity all over central Europe is probably down to the Romans. The first asparagus patches in Germany were planted during the 16th century when the vegetable was still predominantly grown for medicinal purposes and pharmacies were required by law to stock it. Another interesting fact: Until the 19th century hardly any of the asparagus grown was white. Its green relative was much more popular, especially in France and Great Britain.

A plant-based diet will provide you with up to 10,000 phytochemicals (1–1.5g) every day. The German Cancer Research Centre is studying these fabulous food substances’ prophylactic properties. They are thought to possess the amazing ability to revert bodily processes which can create cancers. The most promising substances in this respect are the genistein in soy and the sulphur compounds found in broccoli and other cabbages. Carotenoids like lycopene (in tomatoes) and certain compounds of green tea are also being examined for their positive effects.

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CAN A VEGETARIAN OR VEGAN DIET BY AS HEALTHY AS THAT OF AN OMNIVORE?

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Yes, if not even healthier! Cutting out dairy means vegans consume fewer animal fats. Milk fat contains many unhealthy saturated fats. These are thought to be connected to the occurrence of vascular diseases. Vegans and vegetarians consume many more plant-based foods which provide them with valuable phytochemicals and high quality oils. Plant-based alternatives to milk and yoghurt are often enriched with essential calcium and vitamins B12 and D. This ensures and adequate supply even for vegans. ARE CARBOHYDRATES ACTUALLY AS ›EVIL‹ AS THEY HAVE RECENTLY BEEN PORTRAYED?

Eliminating carbohydrates from your diet as much as possible has, unfortunately, become a popular trend. Fewer carbohydrates are supposed to help reduce your body weight. But actually newer studies have shown that diets which allow the consumption of carbohydrates

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are actually equally effective. The key to reducing your body weight is not the amount of carbohydrates but rather the total number of calories consumed. A no-carb diet is not recommended. Carbs supply the brain with energy throughout the day. Consuming the right kinds of carbs will help you be fit and efficient. WHICH KINDS OF CARBS ARE MOST BENEFICIAL?

The Deutsche Gesellschaft für Ernährung (German Nutrition Association) recommends getting your carbohydrates from wholemeal bread, wholemeal pasta, brown rice and wholemeal flakes and flour – including bran and germ. These are high in valuable substances. Fibrerich wholemeal products also make you feel full for longer and thereby help to keep or reduce your weight. With a myriad of cereals to choose from for your breakfast and countless options including potatoes, millet, quinoa and couscous as sides with your meals there is definitely no shortage of healthy carbohydrates!

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Health –&–

FA C T S

Benefits Asparagus doesn’t only taste great, consumption also benefits your nutritional physiology. As asparagus consist of 90% water it has very few calories which makes it an ideal food for people watching their weight. A kilo of asparagus only has about 150 calories but is full of minerals as well as vitamins A (which is good for your vision), B1 and B2 (which boost your metabolism), C (for your blood vessels and generally firm tissue), and E (for your nervous system). Potassium, calcium and iron promote your kidney function, amongst other things. It is also important to note that – despite its slightly higher content of vitamin C and carotene owed to the fact that it grows in the sun – green asparagus on the whole is not significantly healthier than the white variant.

Boil asparagus in water with 6 grams of salt per liter. White asparagus has a cooking time of 12 minutes while green asparagus only requires 5 to 8 minutes of boiling. Germans consume about 1.5 kg asparagus per person per season. Always peel asparagus from the top (tip) to the bottom (cutting edge). Fresh asparagus has a closed tip and its ends aren’t dry. People suffering with gout and kidney stones should avoid asparagus as it raises uric acid levels.

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sisterMAG presents

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by SUSANNE SCHANZ La Petite Cuisine

Issue 18 | April 2015

for 4 portions

A SPA R AG U S s ou p

with wolffish and wild garlic oil 230

150 ml Soya bean Crème Fraiche for cooking 500 g white asparagus 1 dash sugar 30 g butter 3 tbsp flour 650 ml cooking water (asparagus) 1 egg yolk 2 tbsp lemon juice salt & white pepper ¼ tsp nutmeg ¼ tsp allspice

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FOR THE FISH 250 g wolffish 1 tsp salt pepper 1 tbsp rapeseed oil

FOR THE WILD GARLIC OIL 25 g wild garlic 100 ml rapeseed oil

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TIPS: You can buy ready-made wild garlic oil in many delicatessen stores. As fish you can use any white-flesh fish.

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Step-by-step ASPARAGUS SOUP 1. Wash asparagus and cut into little pieces. Put aside the tips of the asparagus. Cook the rest in 1 l lighly salted and sugared water for about 15 minutes (that depends on the size of the asparagus) until it is done.

sauce. Add the rest of the tips to the soup and heat up. Whisk cooking cream/Crème Fraîche with the egg yolk and add to the soup. Bring to a boil. Season with lemon juice, salt, pepper, nutmeg and allspice.

2. In the meantime prepare wild garlic oil. For this wash the wild garlic and pat dry thoroughly. Put greens and oil into a mixer and process into a puree. Put into a little bowl.

4. Warm up soup bowls. Strain the wild garlic oil in a piece of crêpe paper, saving the oil in a little bowl.

3. Melt 20 g butter in a pan. Using an egg whisk make a creamy sauce with the butter and the flour. Boil for a short time and slowly add 300 ml of the asparagus cooking water. Set aside. Purée 200 g of the aparagus tips with the rest of the cooking water and fold into the

5. Have two pans ready. Melt butter in one of them and sauté the tips of the asparagus. 6. Cut fish filet in pieces, salt and pepper. In the other pan, heat up the rapeseed oil and sear the fish on both sides. 7. Put fish pieces at the bottom of 4 soup bowls, fill up with soup. Garnish with sautéd asparagus tips and the wild garlic oil.

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for 28cm baking pan

SPR I N G ta rt

with asparagus, peas & snow peas 235

S H O RT C R U S T 250 g spelt flour ½ tsp salt 125 g butter (room temp.), in small pieces 1 egg yolk 500 g dry pulse (e.g. lentils, beans or peas for blindbaking) 1 piece of pan liner

FILLING 200 ml Soya bean Crème Fraiche for cooking 80 g green asparagus 40 g peas 40 g snow peas 70 g mini asparagus 1 small onion parsley 2 eggs 4 tbsp Crème fraîche ½ tsp salt pepper 1 tbsp goat's cream cheese 1 small spring onion

Step-by-step SPRING TART 1. Prepare shortcrust a day before and blind bake: In a bowl mix flour, butter, salt and egg with a dough hook on your hand mixer. Remove dough from the bowl and form into a ball with your hands. Flatten, wrap in plastic wrap and refridgerate for at least 30 minutes.

2. Grease tart form. Roll out pastry, place it in the baking pan, pressing up the edges and cutting off the overhanging dough. Lightly prick pastry base with a fork and top with a sheet of baking paper, fill with the dried pulses. Bake tart for 12 minutes, then remove the baking paper and bake for another 15 minutes.

3. For the filling: Wash vegetables. Cut off the bottom third of the

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asparagus types. Clean out the snow peas if necessary. Cook peas for a few minutes in a small pot, strain. Blanch asparagus and snow peas in boiling salted water for 3 to 4 minutes. Drain and plunge into ice water.

4. Preheat oven to 180°C (360°F). 5. Cut onion into thin rings. Cut spring onion into small pieces. Mix soya cream, 2 eggs and Crème Fraîche. Put onion rings and vegetables into the tart tin and pour in the custard. Sprinkle with goat cheese and spring onion rings. Bake for 30 to 40 minutes.

Enduring stressful days is easier if you have a lot of power and energy. Health-concious gourmets increasingly use the advantages of a purely plant-based nutrition. There are a lot of products on the market that help you to do this. In Germany, Alpro has soy – or rice-based – cooking creams, but you can find similar products in bio stores or department stores.

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for 4 portions

B AV ET T E

ca r bonara with a poached egg and asparagus salad 239

PA S TA A N D E G G S 70 ml Soya bean CrĂ¨me Fraiche for cooking 1 medium onion 80 g bacon 3 tbsp olive oil 80 g Parmesan cheese 300 g Bavette 5 eggs pepper 1 tbsp vinegar

SALAD 200 g green asparagus 2 tbsp olive oil 2 tbsp lemon juice Â˝ tsp salt pepper

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Step-by-step BAVETTE CARBONARA

1. Peel the onion and chop into fine pieces. Finely chop the bacon as well. Stew both in a pan with olive oil. Set aside and keep warm. Grate parmesan cheese. Crack open 4 eggs and put into 4 little bowls. Cook pasta in salted water until al dente. In the meantime preheat a large bowl in the oven. 2. Wash asparagus and cut off the ends. Cut lengthwise with a vegetable peeler into thin stripes. Marinade in a bowl with olive oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Bring a mediumsized pot of water to boil. In the preheated bowl combine 1 egg, the Parmesan, pepper and the

cooking cream. Drain pasta and mix with the egg-Parmesanmixture. Add bacon and onions. Keep warm.

3. Now give vinegar into the simmering water and successively let slide one egg at a time into the simmering water. Hold the egg whites together with a tablespoon. Let steep for about 3,5-5 minutes, remove and drain. Always remove the protein flakes that will swim in the water using a ladle. 4. Put Bavette Carbonara onto 4 plates and serve each with a poached egg and asparagus salad.

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for 4 portions

A SPA R AG U S r is ott o with almond & pine nuts gremolata 242

RISOTTO 30 ml Soya bean CrĂ¨me Fraiche for cooking 200 g white asparagus 150 g green asparagus 1 onion 1 clove of garlic 3 tbsp olive oil 200 g risotto rice 100 ml dry white wine 800 ml hot vegetable stock 30 g Parmesan cheese Â˝ lime pepper 15 g butter

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G R E M O L ATA

20 g almond flakes 20 g pine nuts 20 g Parmesan cheese 3 branches of parsley 10 basil leaves

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Step-by-step ASPARAGUS RISOTTO 1. Wash both types of asparagus. Peel white asparagus and cut into small slices. Also cut green asparagus into small slices. Put the tips aside. 2. Grate 30 g of Parmesan cheese for the risotto.

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3. For the gremolata, lightly fry almonds and pine nuts in a pan without oil, allow to cool. Grate 20 g of Parmesan cheese. Wash parsley and basil leaves and chop coarsely. Mix with the cooled almonds and pine nuts and put into a bowl. 4. For the risotto cut onion into small cubes and fry in a pan with olive oil. Press in the garlic, but only cook for a very short time.

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Add rice and steam briefly. If you do it too long, the garlic will become bitter. Add in white wine. Add a third of the vegetable stock and let everything simmer at medium heat until all liquid is boiled down. Stir often. Gradually pour in the remaining stock and keep stirring. While rice is simmering, fry asparagus tips in a pan with butter and keep warm.

5. After 15 minutes â&#x20AC;&#x201C; when the rice is almost done â&#x20AC;&#x201C; stir in the asparagus pieces (not the tips). Also add Parmesan, the cooking cream and the juice of half a lime. Season with pepper. 6. Put risotto on 4 warm plates, garnish with asparagus tips and the gremolata.

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TIP: You can vary the type of nuts for your gremolata. It also works well with hazelnuts or other nuts.

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Portland is the largest city in Oregon. With a population of over 609,456 it is one of the fastest growing cities in the US.

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Portland ON THE

MAP

text Carly Diaz

photos Linnea Paulina

Portland is having a moment. If there was any doubt about it, just look at the 8.7 million tourists that visited in 2014. Or the hundreds of restaurants, cafés and breweries in Oregon that opened in the last year, accompanied by increased media attention spotlighting Portland as a destination for serious foodies, from The New York Times to The Guardian. Or the number of festivals and events drawing crowds to celebrate music, wine, outdoor activities and more. When Hillary Clinton visited Portland in April 2014, she greeted the city and promptly named some of the unique tourist attractions, including Voodoo Doughnuts and Powell’s Books. But they aren’t all just visitors.

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Portland, OR by Jeff Gunn , published under CC 2.0

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Portland is the world's beer capital with a record number of breweries registered within the city. Next to the 58 craft beers it's also home to more than 600 food trucks, the breadth of which underline the unofficial slogan »Keep Portland weird«. People from across the nation and world are packing their bags and staking their claim in Stumptown. City officials expect the population of the greater Portland area to grow by 725,000 in the next 20 years. Forbes

the cultural capital of Oregon? Having observed it from near and far, I think I have settled upon the answer, or at least one answer: a sense of possibility. The allure of the possible that drove pioneers across the country to Oregon in the 19th century is still alive today, drawing individuals that seek a life that allows room for their ideas, expression,

magazine ranked it as #10 in its list of

and a community that supports their

the 20 fastest growing cities in the US.

endeavors. Despite its reputation as a

Born and raised in Oregon, it fills me

»city where young people go to retire«,

with a sense of pride and wonder. What

there is a momentum here that is

exactly is drawing people in droves to

compelling and alluring. Portland

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East Portland by Ian Sane , published under CC 2.0

offers natives and newcomers alike a sense of freedom, opportunity and excitement. Top that off with a heavy dose of lush forests, looming mountains and expansive beaches all within a short distance, and Portland does seem like paradise. With the increased popularity comes the standard bevy of problems: a rising cost of living, shortage of affordable housing, increasing traffic congestion, lackluster but developing public transportation, an increasing homeless population and gentrification as far as the eye can see. Living abroad for nearly 10 years, I returned to a Portland that had transformed from the awkward teenager with dirt under her nails to the well-groomed lady, manicure and all. There is still

THE EARTHWORM a wild streak, but it sometimes can be difficult to spot beneath the shiny veneer. Oregonians have always been a passionate people, but Portland has gathered force, drawing a crowd of people who are seriously into whatever their thing is. Whether itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s riding a unicycle, making moonshine or creating a pollinator garden, there is opportunity and, more importantly, respect for people to perfect their passion. Last autumn, I attended an acorn workshop with my sister, who cooks and is highly involved in the culinary world. We ground acorns into flour by hand and, eventually, made it into a pudding. The participants traded acorn foraging tips and advice on where to buy the best grinding tools. It wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t my thing, but word of a new restaurant opening or a worthwhile hiking trail will have my full attention. Passion drives Portlanders, native or otherwise. Within this self-created oasis is a creative class not content with just letting the city wash over them. They are shaping the city in ways that is helping create the Portland of today. We met with three Portland transplants who were drawn to the city and the creative culture it cultivates, speaking with them about the Portland that is being shaped in front of our eyes.

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250

Magic Candy QUIN

1025 SW Stark Portland, OR 97205 WEBSITE

In Union Way, a serene shopping

»I don’t remember ever not being

alley linking Portland's bustling West

interested in eating treats,« Curl said.

End and the chic Pearl District is the

»My strongest memories growing

delicious world of Quin. Shelves are

up and now are always food related.

lined with handcrafted sweets and

I feel like people have a really strong

treats: gumdrops and chews, lollipops

connection to food that they ate when

and caramels. Candy that spurns

they were younger. I try to spark

bright colors, injections of artificial

that memory and create a nostalgic

flavoring and flashy packaging for a

feeling.«

simpler, more pure take on candy that

Born and raised in Ohio, her memories

recalls the familiar days of youth. Days

of family events and celebrations were

that shaped Quin founder Jami Curl.

always marked with some sort of

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sweet treat. She began working at an ice cream shop when she was 12 and watched her grandmother make candy and sell it to the community during the holidays. Candy and sweets were everywhere. »It was an obsession«, she said. On the cusp of college graduation, she read an article that described Portland as »a city raised on coffee, beer, and books«. The only thing missing from the equation was sweets, but Curl was sold. She and a friend drove across

the country after graduation and made Portland home. After working in marketing, Curl opened the bakery Saint Cupcake in 2005. In addition to scones, cakes, pies, cinnamon rolls and of course, cupcakes, she began experimenting with candymaking. »The first thing I made was a caramel. From there, I wanted to see what else we could do«, she said. »All candymaking starts the same way: you cook sugar to a stage, then everything

Issue 18 | April 2015

is built from there.« From caramels, she tried her hand at hard candies, taking a strawberry puree for a pastry recipe to make a strawberry lollipop. »It was all fun, trying to see what flavors we could come up with and different types of candy«, Curl said. Eventually, Curl turned her full attention to Quin. As with many others in Portland’s food scene, the ingredients are not only a high priority, but a driving factor that drives creation. »We use high-quality ingredients, thoughtful ways of putting things together«, Curl said. »Some of the things we’ve made, I created so that I could find a way to use the ingredient. 252

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I love Steven Smith and his variety of teas so I wondered how I could work them into a recipe.« The Portland community of creators, providing an atmosphere of collaboration and friendly competition, has influenced Curl’s work as well. »The thing about moving to Portland is that there are so many people making things, it’s really inspiring«, Curl said. »I get my ideas for recipes, especially the more unique things, from what other people are doing. That is a good reason to get out, try things, and meet people.«

THE EARTHWORM

Quin founder Jami Curl was born and raised in Ohio. She decided to come to Portland after reading an article on how the city was raised on coffee, beer and books.

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DISTINCTIVELY

northwest

BRIDGE & BURN 1122 SW Morrison St Portland, OR 97205 WEBSITE sister-mag.com

THE EARTHWORM

On the edge of the central district in Portland sits a little shop, the sign over the door proudly proclaiming: Bridge & Burn. Flanked by an image of the neo-Gothic St. John’s Bridge to the left and two (unlit) criss-crossed matches to the right, the name signals forward momentum. To push yourself ahead to the next step, the next destination, burn the bridge behind you so there is no turning back. A native Oregonian in a town quickly becoming populated with transplants from other states and countries, Erik Powell took the unlikely route to becoming founder of the popular clothing line. Growing up in Bend in Central Oregon, Powell would run around in his father’s red checkered wool shirt and was headed for a career in computer science until a hard look at the lifestyle that accompanied a career in software development, combined with a stroke of luck with the just-for-fun t-shirt production that Powell started with a friend, made him radically shift course. He left grad school to expand the clothing production beyond t-shirts. After a crash course in apparel design from a friend working in the industry in Vancouver, and coming upon a factory in China without production

minimums, Powell founded Bridge & Burn in 2009. Initially an online-only shop, Powell aimed for a slow and steady expansion of the Bridge & Burn brand. »We started really small, it was just outerwear and I tried to add a category every season or two, taking baby steps«, he said. They worked with photographers to capture the spirit of the brand and the Northwest atmosphere against the backdrop of Detroit Lake and Portland’s Forest Park. Bridge & Burn clothing quickly became a Portland favorite and, fueled by love from local celebrities such as The Decemberists’ frontman Colin Meloy, began attracting a cult following nationally and internationally. After a string of pop-up appearances and strategic collaborations, Powell opened the brick and mortar shop in April 2013. It was a leap forward and the dream of many small-scale clothing producers. Yet Powell wasn’t content to stop there. »On paper it looks like we’ve arrived, but we still have a long ways to go«, he said. A personal dedication to growth drives him to continue pushing ahead. »I’m still learning all the time. When I started, I wanted to do more than t-shirts because we had a formula down and it wasn’t challenging anymore«,

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Erik Powell was studying for a Masters in Computer Science when he decided that it wasn't how he wanted to spend his life, traded his PC for a Mac and started Bridge & Burn.

256

said Powell. »I’m challenged every day. Today, the biggest challenge is managing production. Yesterday, it was the design side and running a business.« Powell’s drive matches up well to the current atmosphere in Portland, welcoming creativity and innovation with open arms. In a city swirling with energy, there can be pressure to be continuously edging forward. But it also provides the opportunity to be constantly stimulated and supported. »I don’t know exactly what the draw of Portland was, originally it was affordable living, but the community is really supportive of what other people are doing«, Powell said. »Even if there are similarities,

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people seem pretty happy to work together and share resources. You just meet people that you relate with and you’re sharing the same struggles and it creates a common bond.« With the dedication to forward momentum built into the ethos of the Bridge & Burn brand, there is always another project on the horizon. Powell’s next aim is to move production to the US. Currently most production takes place in China, but Powell would like to explore local manufacturing options. »It’s something I’d like to figure out«, he said. »It takes time and money, which is challenging when everything else is in motion, but that’s the big goal, to do US production.«

THE EARTHWORM

Tillamook

257

STATION

665 N Tillamook St Portland, OR 97227

WEBSITE

Tillamook Station is an event space tucked just beyond the railroad yards in North Portland. On the edge of the hip Mississippi neighborhood and a stoneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s throw from the Broadway Bridge leading to the heart of the Pearl District, it is unassuming and surprising. Founder Yvonne Perez Emerson, a designer and teacher â&#x20AC;&#x201C; who prefers titles such as Professional Daydreamer, Believer-Thinker, Maker,

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Educator – started gathering the creative community together through WeMake. An initiative launched by Emerson, WeMake brings people together to highlight illustrators, designers and makers, putting process and the spirit of community on show in an intimate, small scale setting. Seeing the potential of bringing people together to make, create and inspire, Emerson opened Tillamook Station together with her husband to encircle this creative world around them and share it with others. »We named it Tillamook Station because we wanted it to be a destination place«, Emerson said. It draws people together for WeMake, for Emerson’s design studio The Study and for anyone who is drawn to the energy of the space, whether to exchange wedding vows, hold a book launch party or to host a food photography workshop. Growing up in San Diego, Emerson’s youth was shaped by her life as a minority raised on welfare checks by a single mother. The community support that she felt during those days was something that inspired her to want to contribute in the best way that she could: through art and inspiration. The benefit is twofold. She inspires others and is in turn inspired herself.

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»I get so much from connecting with people who really believe in creating community«, Emerson said. »I’m really good at pulling people together. You may be working next to me and, yeah we might be competing for the same job, but you’re in my community and we should be helping each other out because it’s only going to make our community better as a whole. Portland, the design field. Design is a responsibility, I’m just trying to help that in a little way.«

THE EARTHWORM

The scene is set and it is perfectly Portland. »The maker community here is really supportive of each other, they lift each other up«, said Emerson. »I also think they are risk takers. People are trying different things. The stereotypical Portland to me, people are just blazing here. I don’t know why we do that here. Perhaps because we have so many people in our community that are doing it and are supportive of each other.« n

Yvonne created Tillamook Station in part to create a community of artists in the heart of Portland, doing her bit improving the city and its design scene.

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Fresh from Portland RECIPES BY PORTLAND FOODBLOGGER CHRISTIANN KOEPKE

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www.portlandfresh.com

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Sautéed Radishes

WITH BROWNED BUTTER & SEA SALT

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SERVES 2

1 small bunch of radishes (approx. 1 cup chopped) 3-4 tsp butter Â˝ tsp maldon sea salt, plus more for finishing Warm a cast iron pan on medium heat, adding butter. Allow to melt and sizzle until slightly browned, keeping heat low enough so it doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t burn. Sautee chopped radishes in the browned butter for 10-12 minutes, tossing until slightly crispy. Do not cook radishes all the way through as you want the end result to be slightly crunchy. Serve warm, finished with a dash of large sea salt flakes. Pour remaining browned butter and bits from the bottom of the pan over radishes.

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Fried Egg & Avocado

OVER SAUTﾃ右D RADISHES (RECIPE PAGE 262 })

264

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SERVES 2

2 farm fresh eggs 1 avocado Maldon sea salt Browned butter radishes (see recipe previous page)

ÂŠA RECIPE BY CHRISTIANN KOPEKE OF PORTLANDFRESH

Warm a cast iron skillet with bacon grease or butter. Fry two eggs overeasy with fresh cracked salt and pepper to season. Slice avocado. Place warm radishes on plate, top with fried egg and sliced avocado. Drizzle with browned butter and pan drippings or olive oil, finishing with a sprinkle of sea salt.

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1 1/8 tsp ¼ tsp

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but you can use any nut) Mejdool date, halved, seed removed Himalayan sea salt cloves, optional nut milk bag (cheesecloth can work but it’s super messy and takes much longer)

MAKES 3-4 CUPS NUT MILK

3 ½ cups filtered water 140g hazelnuts (hazelnuts are my absolute favorite

THE EARTHWORM

Homemade Nut Milk

267

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Paleo Seed & Nut Pumpkin Spice Granola

268

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¼ cups flax seeds 2 ½ cups large flake unsweetened coconut ¾ cup dried cherries 1 tsp cinnamon ¾ tsp nutmeg ½ tsp ginger ½ tsp cloves ¾ tsp sea salt

MAKES 4 CUPS

¼ tsp coconut oil ½ cup honey 1/3 cup organic pumpkin purée 1 tsp pure vanilla extract 2 cups raw mixed nuts of your choice 2 /3 cup pumpkin seeds 3 tsp chia seeds

Preheat oven to 350°F/175°C. In a small saucepan, warm first 4 ingredients, whisking until smooth. Meanwhile, add nuts to food processor, pulsing just a couple of times until they’re partially broken up. In a large bowl, add nuts and remaining ingredients. Stir to combine. Slowly pour warm liquid over dry mixture, stirring with a spoon until fully incorporated. Lightly grease baking sheet with coconut oil. Add granola to pan and bake in oven for 15-25 minutes or until lightly brown, stirring once or twice partway through. Remove and add cherries, allowing to cool at room temperature. Store in jars and enjoy within 2 weeks.

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269

A WONDERLAND

WHERE THE 1990S ARE STILL ALIVE: A REVIEW OF THE HIPSTER PERSIFL AGE

PORTLANDIA text: Rabea Tannenberger illustration: Tina Bergs

270

It is neither new nor uncommon that movies and series are often paying tribute to the city they are set in. Especially the world’s metropolis of New York, the city hosts so many stories in movies and TV series of any genre that the city itself mutates from mere backdrop into an additional character. The TV series, Sex and the City, is a superb example as the protagonist Carrie regularly meets »her« city for a date. In many other New Yorkbased series (e.g. Seinfeld, 30Rock or Broad City) the characteristics of the city are subject to whole episodes or narratives. However not only large cities have played an important role on TV. The charming and crazy town of »Stars Hollow« was the third family member of the Gilmore Girls.

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The dedicated southern states village »Bluebell« served as an antagonist to New York’s protagonist in Hart of Dixie, and it was also no coincidence that David Lynch named his series »Twin Peaks« after the fictional city it was set in. The series Portlandia, broadcasted by the independent TV station IFC, even goes one step further. As the name already indicates, Portlandia, the city where the plot is set in, is not only an important narrative element but rather its unchallenged main act: the Oregon based Portland represents the setting and vanishing point for the comedy series’ micro narrations as well as its humourous foundation. Compared to cities like New York, Los Angeles or San Francisco, Portland isn’t exactly a city that arouses many

THE EARTHWORM

The dream of the '90s is alive in Portland! My flannel shirt still looks fly.

271

from the title song of Portlandia

associations with people, so then what makes it a city providing enough substance for a series of (so far) five seasons? As if he had expected this question, Fred Armisen (Saturday Night Live), one of the two producers and protagonists of Portlandia, promptly provides an answer in the first skit of the series: Portland is an alternative universe. Literally alternative, says Armisen, the subculture-populated '90s are still alive today in Portland. This bizarre statement is followed by a no-less bizarre song with the

meaningful title ÂťThe Dream of the '90s is Alive in PortlandÂŤ listing how Portlanders still live like people from that era (including tribal tattoos, flannel shirts and using the unicycle as preferred locomotion). Portland as a post-capitalism hipster utopia is the lowest common denominator of Portlandia's skits, some of which only takes five minutes and others a whole episode mocking Portland's independent, alternative and hippie scene. With the help of clumsy costumes and

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all

the

in Armisen's and Brownstein's house

performed

who Âťdidn't have any idea about how

the producers of Portlandia â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Fred

badly the music industry is really

Armisen and Carrie Brownstein. The

doingÂŤ and apologize quickly for

versatile performance of Armisen

illegally downloading Aimee's music

and

before reminding her of a spot she had

weird

voice

protagonists

distortions, are

Brownstein

remarkably current

forgotten to clean. Kyle MacLachlan

abundance of excellent comedians,

also has some ridiculous appearances

and it is supported by top-class guest

in the series as Portland's mayor who

actors like Steve Buscemi, Olivia

accepts his appointments sitting on a

Wilde and Jason Sudeikis as well as

gymnastic ball and plays in a reggae

outstanding

despite

the

many famous faces from the music

band in his spare time.

industry. For example, Aimee Mann

In spite of the incoherent narrative

and Sarah McLachlan have a brilliant

style, there is a handful of recurring

cameo appearance as cleaning ladies

figures in the skit show whose

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THE EARTHWORM

Portland, it is not only regionally consumable: on the contrary, it argues with all city dwellers who once got lost in the trendy neighbourhood of their city. Anyone who has spent a Sunday morning in the Berlin district of Prenzlberg shouldn't have any difficulties in recognizing the stereotypes portrayed in Portlandia. Owners of a health food store who blame their customers via speakers

No, he got rid of the glasses. Everyone was calling him 'bitch'. Quote from Portlandia

for forgetting to bring their own paper bag, pretentious barkeepers who would only respond to the professional title »mixologist« and hipsters who compulsively print a bird on each and every piece of furniture in order

stories slowly develop in an abstruse

to make it more stylish - Portlandia

manner

doesn't spare any trendy subculture.

during

the

series'

five

seasons, such as the owners of the

That is the oxymoron that the subtle

feministic book shop »Women &

humour of Portlandia is referring to:

Women First« whose anti-capitalist

the subcultures of the 1990s have

convictions

hinder

long become mainstream, uncool

them from actually selling a book,

is the new cool and nerdy the new

the environmentally conscious couple

popular. In this way, the series

permanently

that wants to read the chicken's CV before ordering it and the white trash couple Nina and Lance for which Armisen and Brownstein take on the roles of the other sex.

relentlessly presents the effects of gentrification, self-righteousness of over-ambitious

environmentalists

and the simple art appreciation of

Portland's

hipsters.

However

Although the series has a fixation

unfortunately, the 1990s are over –

about the specific local colour of

even in Portland. Although Portlandia

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is firmly based on a caricature of a specific social stratum and doesn’t shy away from the most malicious jokes, we shouldn't forget that both Portlandia stars are themselves active in the scene they are diversely mocking. Brownstein was member of the Portland alternative and punk bands »Slater-Kinney« and »Wild Flag« and the TV station IFC, that is producing the show, which was originally planned as an online series, is also a platform for content far from mainstream. The fact that Brownstein and Armisen belong to the target of their mockery indicates that Portlandia is not only a satire but also a homage to Portland and its

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pronounced subcultures. Portlandia is also characterised by the almost excessive use of irony, which is known to be a favourite toy of hipsters, thus making it accessible especially to the people that it is making fun of. Finally, there are skits in the subsequent seasons of Portlandia that allude less to the quirks of the independent, alternative and hippie scene but, for example, to the dangerous »only one more episode« principle of binge watching. Despite its patchwork micro narrations and absence of cliff-hangers, these are the kinds of risks that Portlandia takes.

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For just $1 you get a half price download of half of the song. You'll be able to listen to it just once. Quote from Portlandia

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1 STARTUP SPOTLIGHT

HAPPYSTAFFY.ME

happystaffy.me

@happystaffy.me

fb.com/happystaffy.me 276 The company is selffinanced and was built with the founderâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s savings.

FINANCE

happystaffy.me was founded in Berlin at the end of last year. We design and manufacture stylish and modern fashion for dogs. Our approach is more focussed on style, a great eye for detail and indivi-

IDEA

duality than that of your average providers. All our designs are bespoke and individually tailored to each dog. Each piece is hand-sewn in Berlin.

2 I spent forever looking for fashionable high quality clothes for my dogs and could never find any that were different from the boring average collection and fit my own style. Our

INSPIRATION

products are inspired by street style and current trends which we translate into functional and convenient every-day clothes. 277

We sell our clothes via our own online store, Etsy and Dawanda. We are also in talks with several international retailers interested in distributing our clothes.

Still in Berlin. My dream is a nice showroom with a small tailoring studio. In the long run we want to establish happystaffy. me as a brand regarding all aspects of dog care and supplies. We are al-

REVENUE

ready working on an offthe-rack collection and several other products including hand-pottered food bowls, sleeping bags for dogs and bespoke leather harnesses.

FUTURE PLANS

COMPETITORS

There are many companies that offer clothing for dogs. But we are aware of none which rival our concept in terms of style and focus. 278 The name represents our non-commercial message: happystaffy. me comes from the American Staffordshire Terrier breed of dog. 5% of the company’s income goes towards national and international animal welfare organizations. We want to change the perception of this largely discredited breed and raise awareness

so an entire breed of dog won’t be judged on a few owners’ ignorant and often illegal behaviour.

The logo shows Chica and her distinctive crooked front leg.

I have volunteered at the Berliner Tierheim (one of the largest animal shelters in Europe) for years and spend many of my weekends there. Chica, the face of our brand spent some of her life at the shelter.

NAME

LOGO

FOUNDER'S PAST

I have worked in the Berlin start-up scene for the past 8 years. Mainly in business development and sales.

STAFF

We are just about to be hiring a second tailor. 279

Berlin.

Excel. Excel. Excel. And we will probably buy a professional tailoring tool with a bespoke module soon.

CITY

MOST USED SOFTWARE

A whole section that is inspired by the transparency of a fly's wing - aren't we all a little bit see-through?

282

Click on the images to go directly to the original webpage!

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283

text & collage Gudy Herder

The origin of this trend stems from a highly tech-ruled world where we feel increasingly scanned. In today' s life we face a constant correlation between security and surveillance with the human body being scanned at an airport when we travel, while interacting on the internet or tracked by hidden street cameras.

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As an interesting contrast to observe, Scanned! sees its translation in wonderful X-ray photography where beauty lies in transparency and fragility. Revealing the inside becomes art. By exposing an object to X-rays, one discovers new and sometimes surprisingly delicate structures and hidden beauty. It is a technique that invites stripping back the layers and discovering what it is that lies under the obvious surface. Stephen N Meyers captivates with his giclĂŠe prints using a sophisticated and patented printing process where a fine stream of ink is applied on watercolour paper. As a result, the transparency of his natural objects is just stunning. Meyers carries on a tradition begun over 70 years ago called radiographic art. Unlike traditional radiographic art,

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THE FLY

Meyers actually prints these X-ray photographs, a difficult process since X-ray doesn't react to paper in the same ways that standard photographs do. He began selling his radiographic flower photographs via street vendors in New York but now shows several exhibitions a year. On the other side and with a more mechanical approach, British photographer Nick Veasey holding several international awards, works at an X-ray lab combining the art of photography and the science of radiology. His studio is equipped with a medical scanner 60 times as powerful as medical ones. Among his many larger projects, the X-ray photography of a bus was taken by a device normally employed

285

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286

by American border police to scan vehicles. The passengers are in fact one body adapted to different body positions. Belgian artist Wim Delvoye has explored x-ray art in a totally different context some time ago creating an interesting juxtaposition between the religious and the scientific with his 9 Muses project. These 9 stainedglass windows crafted in a gothic arch shape were made for a commissioned chapel by the Mudam Museum in Luxembourg where he questioned today's society with rather provocative images in the religious context. Another artist working with X-rays in a more poetic way is Philadelphia-based artist Matthew Cox . He combines the traditional medium of embroidery with X-ray films contrasting the instant radiograph with a labour-intense and handcrafted process.

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THE FLY

Changing the discipline and blurring the lines between art and science, transparent materials and shiny panelling are always making a come back in the spring and summer seasons. Scanned! is translated into fashion with cloudy and light-as-air transparencies, layering of blurry X-rayed images on tulle, peekaboo panels (Philip Lim) on silk and airy fabrics with a feel of lightness and delicacy. Applied colours are black & white and charcoal referring to radiographs, whereas in fashion this trend is decoded to more feminine shades with the aim to underline transparency and softness: pale pink, blush, bisque, eggplant, teal and steel blue are the key colours. Youâ&#x20AC;&#x2DC;ll find Scanned! mainly in photography, art, graphic design and fashion.

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AREN'T WE ALL TRANSPARENT? When dealing with the topic »SCANNED« you can't get around reading about »X-Ray photographers«. They observe objects, plants and even people from a different perspective, using x-rays to create extraordinary and unusual images.

288

Bryan Whitney (New York) is one of those photographers. His experimental pictures have been featured in countless magazines. Whitney takes x-ray photos and uploads them to his site x-rayphotography.com . For sisterMAG he decided to go on a journey through time.

text Bryan Whitney

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THE FLY

right }

Röntgen X-ray from his wife's hand Another hand done by Röntgen

It all began in 1895 when things unexpectedly started glowing in the dark. As Physicist Wilhelm Röntgen researched the effects of an electrical charge passing through a vacuum tube he noticed that material coated with barium platinocyanide began to glow when placed near the covered tube. Röntgen correctly guessed that invisible rays (which he called »X-rays,« after the algebraic unknown »X«) were causing the luminescent reaction. Two months later, he made the first X-ray image of his wife Anna’s hand, revealing a golden ring on her skeletal hand. Röntgen was awarded a Nobel prize for this discovery. Since then, X-rays have become an important part of medical science for their ability to reveal internal structures. Marie Curie, one of the first scientists to research radioactivity (and for whom the eponymous unit for radioactivity, the »Curie,« was named), advanced the World War I war effort by setting up mobile diagnostic

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} right

High Heel with Foot from Bryan Whitney | left

Marie Curie y below

Marie & Pierre Curie at work

290

X-ray units for the French troops, helping save wounded soldiersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; lives. She was awarded a Nobel prize in Physics (the first Nobel prize awarded to a woman) and then was awarded a second for Chemistry, becoming at the time the only person to have received two Nobel prizes. Decades of over-exposure to radioactive materials eventually led to her death in 1934. To this day, her scientific papers from the 1890s are kept in lead-lined boxes - even her cookbook from that time is radioactive! Beyond their forensic and medical use X-rays have also been used artistically. The technique is similar to the photogram where objects are simply placed on a sheet of photo paper in a darkroom and exposed to a beam of light, creating a shadow image or tones depending on how transparent to light the object is. In fact this is exactly how the very first photographic images from the 1830â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

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were made. An X-ray image is created in the same way: without a lens or a camera - except the beam of light shining on the object is an X-ray beam and it penetrates directly through the object onto a sensitive film or digital plate, forming a life-sized image.

THE FLY

| left

A.A.C. Swinton: Fish Â&#x20AC; below

Self-portrait, radiograph, circa 1930s. In this contact print created from X-ray film, you can see the holes created by the film holder. (Dr. Dain L. Tasker)

Just months after RĂśntgen published his findings, many scientists were experimenting with the technique. A.A.C. Swinton, an English amateur scientist, made numerous X-ray images of hands, fish and other objects.

291

Swinton at Bonhams An early and notable explorer of X-ray imaging in the 1930s was the Los Angeles radiologist Dain L. Tasker. Tasker made beautiful black and white images of flowers that revealed the delicate and beautiful structure of plants. One of his most famous X-ray images, of the classic photogenic Calla Lily, was printed from its X-ray negative by the master photographer Ansel Adams.

Tasker's work as shown on NPR Albert Richards, a retired dental X-ray

Canterbury Bells, radiograph by Dr. D. L. Tasker

above

292

} right

Bryan Whitney – Nasturtium X-ray

Bryan Whitney – Two Lilies X-ray

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} right

Bryan Whitney – Nautilus X-ray

} right

Bryan Whitney – Chrysanthemum X-ray

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Issue 18 | April 2015

| left

Benedetta Bonichi: VENERE STUDIO Nr. 2, 2005 } right

Benedetta Bonichi: LA COLLANA DI PERLE … 2002

professor from the University of Michigan, produced X-ray floral work starting in the ‘60s, and published a book with 100 floral X-rays called »The Secret Garden.« This would be a great find at a used bookstore.

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Floral X-Rays from A. Richards Italian artist Benedetta Bonichi, who works in many mediums, is a contemporary artist using X-rays. She has created fantastic operatic and painterly scenes, mythological creatures, and X-ray still life images. Her image of an octopuswoman is an elegant fantasy made »real« by the X-ray process, which leads us to think it could be scientifically accurate.

Benedetta Bonichi's website An extraordinary use - or reuse as it were - of X-rays occurred in the 1950s in Russia and Hungary. Before the days of the tape deck, to copy a vinyl record, one would »cut« a copy of a record using a duplicating

~ above

Bonichi: IL LAGO DEI CIGNI, 2005

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~ above

Bryan Whitney: Tulips

Bryan Whitney: Noorpur Portrait

machine. However, vinyl was scarce

As a photographer I have experimented

and it was discovered that discarded

with X-rays for the past 15 years

X-ray film could be used to create the

creating images of flowers, plants,

recordings. Imagine how cool it would

shells and many other objects. These

look spinning your X-ray records!

images have appeared in magazines

X-ray records on The Verge More provocatively, Wim Delvoye’s work is pure »Goth,« using the X-ray

such as Italian Vogue, Martha Stewart Living, the Suddeutche Zeitung and have been exhibited internationally. I have recently made X-ray animations,

process to create scary, explicit and

3-D X-rays, and combined X-rays with

macabre sexual images. His »Kiss«

photographs. In 2016, the US Postal

and

Service will be making a series of

»Lick«

are

relatively

tame

examples of his work.

Work of Wim Delvoye

stamps from my X-ray floral images.

x-rayphotography.com Issue 18 | April 2015

295

COMPOSITION IS KEY

Lisianthus, reworked version of an original from 2006.

INTERVIEW with British X-ray photographer Robert Coop

1 2 Who are you? Where do you live and what do you do for a living? I'm Robert Coop and I live in Stansted, Essex (near the airport, but it is a beautiful part of the world). I live with my wife, Helen and teenage daughter, Hannah. I graduated in photography, but now it's a hobby and I work as a user experience architect (don't worry, my family don't know what I do either).

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Why did you decide to go into X-Ray Photography? I got into x-ray photography largely by mistake. I was introduced to a local art publisher who liked my landscape photographs, but asked if I could '... do something different.' After some time experimenting, I realised that most photographic effects were very obvious and as a result not commercial or even that interesting, and decided to try x-rays. I found the machine I needed at Cambridge University and called them up. Fortunately they were very understanding and were happy to let me give it a go.

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Blue flowers, reworked from an original 2007 x-ray

How do you choose a motif and what are the best things to take pictures of? I tried a number of subjects such as shells and everyday objects like shoes, but flowers have a universal quality that most people appreciate and enjoy. The trick is to try to make the flower appear natural, even though you are using an inherently technical process. The image needs to 'flow' and composition is key. Surprisingly, most flowers appear very rigid and unappealing at first and it takes a lot of time to get a composition that looks natural to the eye.

5 4 You've said that people have described your work as Âťverbose and indirectÂŤ - do you agree? If not, how would you describe your work in three words? My writing is verbose and indirect, or used to be at least. I'd hope my images are elegant and articulate. Maybe that's why I prefer creating images to writing? In three words, I'd hope 'looks effortlessly elegant'. It isn't effortless, but I hope it is elegant.

How do you produce these X-rays? The images are produced on lithographic film (very high contrast) and then scanned into Photoshop for processing. It's a very hit and miss process and I take up to 50 exposures to get the right image (plus a lot of flowers!). All x-rays are black and white and everything is in focus, so any colour or focus is applied during processing. It's a very involved process that can take days, but when you get an image that works, it's an immensely satisfying feeling.

Issue 18 | April 2015

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Do you see things differently since you started doing X-Ray Photography?

What feelings, emotions do you want to show with your work? Do you have a general statement that your art should convey?

Since x-raying flowers I've begun to appreciate the incredible structures and details that nature throws up. Each flower is a miracle of evolution or creation (depending on your viewpoint). We are often used to standing back and viewing flowers as displays of colour, but get close in and look at the complexity, intricacy and beauty of each individual bloom. It will blow your mind.

Anemone, reworked version of an original from 2006. Totally reworked from the scan and through production in Photoshop.

I hope my work coneys simple beauty. There is a lot of work and technology behind it and to a degree, that's obvious, but I hope it isn't the point. When someone looks at one of my pictures, I hope they just say 'oh!'.

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Campanula, reworked version of an original from 2007. Issue 18 | April 2015

300

In this issue we continue with our new series sisterMAG ÂťTable of the monthÂŤ. We are especially proud and happy, that this issue's table was styled from trend expert, blogger (Eclectic Trends ) and friend Gudy Herder. With photographer Kike Jean she put together this beautiful table in Valencia, which fits perfectly in this section: transparent vases and fragile objects from her own workshop are combined with flowers in the most beautiful pastel colours of the spring season. sister-mag.com

nth sM18

Styling Gudy Herder | Pho tos Kike Jean

Table of the m o

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Gol

: y r e utl

e m o H Zara

A te

lier

Cera

mics c

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a n b e o r d e r e d t h r o u g h BigCartelShop

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Chrysanthemu

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Who is White Atelier BCN? After Gudy showed us her fragile objects a little while back, we were thrilled to present the design objects, made by the Barcelona-based blogger and trend expert, in sisterMAG!

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Fotos: Thea Neubauer

These pictures were taken during the Barcelona Blogger Brunch from Meet The Blogger in September 2014.

eclectictrends.com

@whiteatelierbcn @gudyherder

Issue 18 | April 2015

WEARABLES 308

elektro couture PHOTOS BY CRISTOPHER SANTOS TEXT LISA LANG

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THE IDEA OF WEARING TECHNOLOGY IS NOT NEW

With a name that sounds ripped from a Marvel comic book, Lisa Lang delivers a personality to match - and she has a superpower: Lisa brings people together to create new, innovative, and beautiful products.

I often get asked ›Are wearable technologies and fashiontech a real thing’‹? And I often answer (after a deep breath): ›Yes, it will be a big deal - but we’re just beginning and the problems are completely different than you’d expect.‹ Wearable technologies and fashiontech are two new words in the current startup bullshit bingo vocabulary. You can hear them everywhere now, everyone is using them - and nobody actually knows what they really are. It reminds me a bit of the times where the words ›mobile‹ and ›responsive design‹ were

Lisa was raised in a Franconian craftsman family, studied Arts, New Media as well as international business management and lived and worked all around the word. In the almost ten years of her career in the IT industry, she’s gained a reputation as a digital information technology and new media game changer. Now Lisa is blending all her experiences with her agency for bespoke wearables technologies, elektrocouture.com , and has been named one of the top 100 most influential people in wearable tech worldwide.

really fashionable in web development - same situation. Nobody had a clue, but everyone wanted it. The idea of wearing technology is not new. Think about it - when the German

Issue 18 | April 2015

309

Peter Henlein developed a portable pic 1 / Gustave Trouvé glowing ballet dress

clock in the 16th century this new form of mobile technology was outrageously innovative (same happened with the 310

Walkman in the 80s, remember?). Same goes for the desire for ‘smart clothes’ that keep the person wearing them warm (or cold), visible in the dark and causing them to stand out from the crowd. Gustave Trouvé, a French doctor

accessible and wearable for everyone.

and watch maker for instance made the

With the price of 3D printers falling

customs of a whole ballet group glow

steadily while their production quality

in 1857 with mobile light bulbs. [pic 1]

improves (Formlabs is a great example

Wearable technologies and fashion

for it) more and more - prototyping for

tech concepts and ideas have been in

3D objects is increasingly inexpensive.

the making for a long time - but what

Alternatively, 3D printers can be used

makes our period so exceptionally

to actually produce fabrics and cloth

exciting? Well, it never has been easier

itself - as recently demonstrated from

to design, prototype and produce

the great team of Nervous System who

them for the masses, and make them

printed an entire dress.

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LASER CUTTERS ARE THE NEW SEWING MACHINES Moreover, other machines like the laser cutter are finding more and more use in the fashion industry. One of the examples is Marchesa [pic 2] who used laser technology to produce one of their

pic 2 / Marchesa laser cut lace dress Karl Prouse/Getty Images

stunning lace dresses.

New production technology offer huge chances for the struggling fashion COAT Partner project with ElektroCouture and Mia Manu

industry. High-Couture is a very expensive business also mainly because of itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s production cost - lowering the

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SCARF Partner project with ElektroCouture and ETIB

price while maintaining the quality and high standard of clothes is, for a lot of Fashion houses, life depending. Think about it - when the usable sewing machine hit the market in the 1850s, the industry went wild. The speed and precision of these machines opened up unheard of possibilities for the individual seamstress as well as for 312

entire production lines. Another

important

technological

development was the smart electricity supply for any possible wearable energy dependent device. While Steve Mann, pioneer of the wearable computers had to carry huge and heavy battery belts applications far more wearable: her fabulous Solar Sweater [pic 4] doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t only look pretty, it also charges your mobile phone on the go. Another example of a technology taken pic 3 / Steve Mann, battery belts Wareable.com

with him [pic 3] , designers like Pauline van Dongen made energy supply

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out of its traditional use and context and then repurposed for the fashion industry is the tago arc from the Budapest company Liber8Tech [pic5].

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Issue 18 | April 2015

The bracelet can display different types of patterns (triggered by a smart phone app). The jewellery never has to be charged since the NLC display technology doesnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t require it and the trigger from the smart phone lasts for a long time.

314

TECHNOLOGY IS NOT YOUR PROBLEM As you can see, the wonderful world of technology offers lots of accessible possibilities and useful examples so why is the fashion industry still so reluctant and slow to adopt? In my opinion, there is still a huge knowledge

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pic 5 / www.paulinevandongen.nl/Solar Sweater 2015

pic 4 / www.paulinevandongen.nl/Solar Sweater 2015

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pic 6 / Tago Arc Liber8Tech

gap between those who know what is possible and those who donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t, 315

combined with difficulties to access this knowledge. In the technology industry where startups and makers live and breath innovation, two important concepts have helped the fast increase of information exchange: co-working and maker spaces.

different people can be great sparring

Co-working spaces are helpful in two

partners when you practise your pitch

major hurdles for beginning pioneers

but also are very useful as test dummies

and disruptors: lower running cost

and bullshit filters.

because of sharing facilities and meeting

Maker spaces are a golden concept.

different people. The latter can be

Spaces like Fablab which came out of

quiet useful for many situations: these

MIT with a mission to give access to

SCARF Partner project with ElektroCouture and ETIB

technology to everyone are invaluable for prototyping stages and access to

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THE FLY NECKLACE House project by ElektroCouture

USE ART AND TECHNOLOGY TO CREATE SOMETHING NEW As Walter Groupius, creator of the bauhaus concept once said: »use art and technology to create something knowledge. From experience, I can tell

new«. With that concept the Bauhaus

you: Never underestimate the power of

school has revolutionised the way we

a supporting environment where people

live, design and think. I think that’s

around you are happy and have enough

exactly where we are with wearable

patience to help - doesn’t matter how

technologies and fashion tech right

crazy your idea is.

now - it is a huge opportunity in a

Where does that leave us? Remember

market like fashion where it feels like

my analogy to web development in the

everything has been done already and

beginning? The internet as we know

it just repeats itself; we need hybrids

it started as a bunch of lines of code

who understand both worlds and who

with no user interface. Without this it

can create a new form of user interface

made the technology inaccessible for

for the mass market.

a lot of potential users who weren’t

So my message to you designers is: learn

programmers. However, when web

how to solder! To you technologists out

designers,

there: learn to sew! And for god sake -

who

designers

and

were

hybrids

programmers,

talk and work with each other!

started to create a user interface so ›normal‹ people weren’t afraid to use it - and through that to build a global communication network - and an entire new economy.

Issue 18 | April 2015

317

Outlook

Outlook June

318

Luggage Suitcases, Bags, Duffel Bags-there are many options to choose from when it comes to carrying your belongings around the world. We visited a bag manufacturer to take a look inside those bags

Roman Holiday We took our photographer and travelled to the Italian capital to show you the sisterMAG summer dresses.

The upcoming summer issue will be all around the topic of travelling. However we will also talk about another mega trend of our times: individualisation. Furthermore we will travel to Italy where our photo team will shoot the new sisterMAG Fashion Collection, searching for the real Dolce Vita feeling with many dresses to sew yourself and free patterns in the issue!

Individuality wherever you go: Today, talent shows are a common feature in entertainment. We observe how this menatlity is brought into our everyday-lives.

IF YOU HAVE AN IDEA FOR US OR WANT TO BE PART OF SISTERMAG, JUST WRITE US AN EMAIL TO MAIL@SISTER-MAG.COM AND WE WILL TRY TO RESPOND ASAP.

IMPRINT SISTERMAG – JOURNAL FOR THE DIGITAL LADY w w w. s i st e r - m a g . co m eMail Twitter Facebook Chief Editor

mail@sister-mag.com twitter.com/sister_mag fb.com/sister.magazin Theresa Neubauer

Fashion Director

Eva-Maria Neubauer

Managing Editor

Sandra Rothfeld

Contributing Editors (Text) Cathrin Brandes, Carly Diaz, Christie Dietz, Laura Glabbatz, Anna Mendel, Ira Häussler, Gudy Herder, Elisa von Hof, Alexander Kords, Lisa Lang, Thea Neubauer, Diana Patient, Rabea Tanneberger, Luisa Sancelean, Bryan Whitney Contributing Editors (Food) Christiann Koepke, Susanne Schanz Contributing Editors (Photo) Marco di Filippo, Kike Jean, Mirjam Klein, Tobias Koch, Ashley Ludäscher, Zoe Noble, Diana Patient, Cristopher Santos, Trine Skauen, Isabelle Wistuba Contributing Editors (Video) Marco di Filippo, Cristopher Santos, Trine Skauen Design & Illustration Tina Bergs, Carolin Böttcher, Georgie St. Eclair, Thea Neubauer (Art Direction), Helena Melikov, Jonas Villmow Translation & Proof Claire Cunningham, Stefanie Kießling, Amie McCracken, Sandra Rothfeld, Antonia Sutter Styling Gudy Herder, Rebecca Martin, Thea Neubauer, Evi Neubauer, Trine Skauen Production Laura Glabbatz, Sandra Rothfeld, Antonia Sutter, Tina Bergs, Luisa Sancelean Published by-monthly by Carry-On Publishing GmbH, Gustav-MeyerAllee 25, 13355 Berlin. Re-use of content is only allowed with written permission of publisher. There is no liability for unsolicited manuscripts and photographs. The Carry-On Publishing GmbH assumes no liability or guarantee for the accuracy, currency and completeness of the information provided. All information is provided without warranty. Management Sales Marketing

Antonia Sutter, Theresa Neubauer, Alex Sutter Alex Sutter (Sales Dir.) Antonia Sutter (Marketing Dir.), Luisa Sancelean

DON'T FORGET Post your favourite picture, feature or a thought about this issue with hashtag #sisterMAG18 (and @sister_mag) and get one of 50 mousepads with an illustration of this issue by @designedbyalice.

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sisterMAG Issue 18

Articles inside

Design in Scent

X-Ray – The Art

Local Food

DIY Moths