Fashion Design Studio by Sixth&Spring Books

DRAWING WITH Chris Hart

ART INSTRUCTION • DR AWING • FASHION

creative girls draw

sixthandspringbooks.com PRINTED IN CHINA

CHFashionDesignStudio_Cover_FINAL2.indd 1

Chris

Hart

Fashion Design Studio Learn to Draw Figures, Fashion, Hairstyles & More

Fashion Design Studio

Chris Hart is the world’s best-selling author of how-to-draw books. His books have sold more than 3.5 million copies and have been translated into 20 languages. His many titles include Figure It Out! The Beginner’s Guide to Drawing People, Cartooning: The Ultimate Character Design Book, Manga Mania Girl Power! , and Manga Mania Romance, all published by Sixth&Spring Books. He is also the author of the graphic novel The Reformed.

DRAWING WITH

Inner Fashionista! $16.95 U.S. • $18.95 Canada ISBN: 978-1-936096-62-6

creative

girls draw

spine: 11.5mm

Fashion Design Studio

Learn to Draw Figures, Fashion, Hairstyles & More

Now you can see your fashion designs look as gorgeous on the page as you’ve imagined them on the runway! In Creative Girls Draw: Fashion Design Studio, bestselling author and artist CHRIS HART shows you how to present your couture creations through drawing.

Express Your

From Chris Hart, the world’s best-selling author of how-to-draw books, comes Creative Girls Draw: Fashion Design Studio, the ultimate guide to drawing for aspiring fashion designers. Inside you’ll find all the tools you need to share your design ideas. Learn to draw the figure with the right proportions and poses, and how to adorn it with an array of garments, shoes, and accessories, as well as hair and makeup. Practice on the Draw It Yourself pages throughout the book, and find ideas for looks in the Style Files. With Chris Hart’s help, you can bring your designs to life and your fashion dreams closer to reality!

$16.95 US • $18.95 CAN

From proportions to poses to prints, you’ll learn through clear, step-by-step instructions how to depict your own designs. And you can practice what you’ve learned on the Draw It Yourself templates in each chapter.

creative

girls draw

If you’re serious about style, pick up a pencil and start creating!

8/13/13 3:52 AM

Fashion Design Studio Learn to draw figures, clothing, accessories, hairstyles, makeup and more creative

girls draw

For my wife, Maria, without whom this book could not have been written.

An imprint of Sixth&Spring Books 161 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10013 sixthandspringbooks.com

Editorial Director JOY AQUILINO

Book Design PETER ROMEO

Creative Director JOE VIOR

Developmental Editor LISA SILVERMAN

Proofreader DARYL BROWER

Production Manager DAVID JOINNIDES

Art Direction STUDIO2PT0

Vice President TRISHA MALCOLM

President ART JOINNIDES

Editorial Assistant JOHANNA LEVY

Publisher CAROLINE KILMER

Chairman JAY STEIN

Copyright © 2013 by Cartoon Craft, LLC All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means—graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or information storage-and-retrieval systems—without written permission of the publisher. The written instructions, photographs, designs, projects, and patterns are intended for the personal, noncommercial use of the retail purchaser and are under federal copyright laws; they are not to be reproduced in any form for commercial use. Permission is granted to photocopy the “Draw It Yourself” templates throughout the book. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data Hart, Christopher, 1957– Fashion design studio : learn to draw figures, clothing, accessories, hairstyles, makeup & more / Chris Hart. pages cm. — (Creative girls draw) ISBN 978-1-936096-62-6 (pbk.) 1. Fashion drawing—Juvenile literature. I. Title. TT509.H37 2013 741.6’72—dc23 2013023426 Manufactured in China 1 3 5 7 9 10 8 6 4 2 First Edition

getting started Have you ever wanted to draw fashions? What about drawing trendy models in eye-catching outfits? Now you can do both. This book will show you how to draw fashion figures in the outfits that make them sparkle. If you’ve tried to draw from the photos in fashion magazines, you’ll know that photographic reference material doesn’t take you very far. It provides no foundation. And without that, it’s difficult to improve. The lessons in this book give you all the basics, which make drawing easy and fun. There’s no more struggling to get it right. And because the techniques are grounded in real art principles, practicing with this book can make you a better artist in any genre, not just fashion. You’ll enjoy learning to draw pretty eyes and features, stylish hairdos, attractive figures, cool outfits, fashionable poses, folds, creases, and even patterns. There’s everything from elegant evening dresses to retro-chic outfits, bags, shoes, and boots. All right, all you fashionistas, it’s time to get your pencils. We are ready to get started.

essential art supplies You can begin drawing great fashion illustrations with just a pencil and paper. But suppose you’d also like to explore color? Maybe you would also enjoy using an art pencil. Or you might want to know if there’s anything you can obtain from an art store that is designed to correct mistakes. The good news is that art supplies for illustrators are reasonably priced. Unlike painting or sculpting supplies, they don’t make a mess, unless you decide to eat and draw at the same time, which I don’t generally recommend. Brush

Art pencil

Colored markers

Fine-point black marker

your basic art supply list • A set of art pencils • A big, fat eraser of any type • Art stores have a variety of products that remove or mask mistakes. • Some products that mask mistakes require a thin brush to apply them. • Small plastic cup for cleaning the brush, if you decide to get one • Fine-point black marker • Set of colored markers • Set of colored pencils • Pencil sharpener • Pad of paper. Avoid rough paper, glossy paper, tracing paper, and newsprint • A 12–18” ruler

combining angles Not all poses fit neatly into one of the three categories we have covered: front, side, and rear. Often a pose will feature a combination of angles. Usually, one angle is stressed over the other. For example, a side pose might be tweaked so that the torso and head twist toward the viewer at a three-quarter pose. The purpose of this is to give the pose the appearance of depth. (Side views are notoriously flat.)

PRIMARY ANGLEâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;SIDE VIEW SECONDARY ANGLEâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;3/4 VIEW You can tell that the pose is not a pure side view, because if it were, you would not be able to see the far shoulder, which would be hidden behind the torso.

PRIMARY ANGLE—REAR VIEW SECONDARY ANGLE—SIDE VIEW This leg position, with both knees facing away from us and the line of the spine being apparent, indicates a rear view. The torso, however, is doing a twist toward us, mimicking a side view. This makes the pose dynamic rather than static. Pure rear poses aren’t all that common in fashion illustration, because there’s less to see. Therefore, when you have a rear view, consider the option of combining it with another angle.

The closer the image, the more detail is required. And with added detail, you have the opportunity to give a specific look or personality to the eyes.

Semi-Squint Usually on a cheerful expression

Eyelashes bunched Gives them a thicker look

Deep eyes Notice the markup underneath the eyes

Hopeful eyes Note the thinly drawn irises, which are empty of shading

the eyes in color No one can tell you how to apply makeup to the eyes. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s as individual a process as it is when a person applies it in reality. But however you choose to represent makeup in your drawings, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best to work in stages, as shown here.

1. No color.

4. Blacken the pupils around the highlights. Add a few light markings for the interior of the iris. Add subtle shading to the eyeball just under the upper eyelid. With that in place, add color to the upper eyelids, and just a suggestion of color to the lower ones.

2. Thicken the eyelashes.

5. To finish up: add a little shading to the iris with a darker tone of the same color (e.g., darker green shading onto a green iris). Shade the outer parts of the eyelids. Finally, add some color to the deep pockets under the eyebrows. 3. Thicken the outlines of the iris and pupils. Add unequal shines to the eyes, diagonal to each other. Now add color to the iris.

profile— step-by-step Ah, yes, we come to the profile, that trickiest of all the easy-looking angles. It looks so simple. After all, you only have to draw one of everything: one eye, one nostril, one eyebrow, and one ear. The reason it’s challenging is because the outline of the front of the face is very specific. If you’re off by a little, it can appear off by a lot. The mistake made by some beginners is not adding enough curves to the outline. But if we examine the head construction carefully, we’ll see that the side view is all about curves.

Curve at the bridge of the nose

The nose sweeps outward

Small curve inward just above the upper lip

Big curve inward below the lower lip Outward curve of the chin

Give the lips thickness in the side view

Gravity causes the brim of the hat to dip at the ends, creating a natural look

It helps to draw a little more of the character than will be shown in the actual finished piece. For example, this sketch originally contained more of the body. This helped in achieving a natural look.

In the final drawing, we can â&#x20AC;&#x153;cropâ&#x20AC;? the image further by omitting color from the bottom, thereby focusing the viewerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s eye on the most important elements: the head and hat.

curves, collars, & sleeves Collars, waistbands, and sleeves are generally drawn as ovals. The direction of the curves should be consistent with the vantage point of the viewer. In this case, both sleeves curve away from the viewer. Being consistent in this manner helps to create a three-dimensional look.

flow & drag Adding a sweep to clothing gives a sense of poetic motion to a figure. But how do you choose a direction for the flow of the clothing? Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sometimes based on the direction of the wind, but more often than not, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s based on inertia. When the figure moves in one direction, the clothing drags behind a beat. The delay between the two actions is what creates the pleasing sweeping motion.

Figure turns right; scarf drags behind

Figure turns left; coat drags behind

creating patterns Not all clothing has, or should have, patterns. But certainly, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re going to want to use a good number of them if you want your fashions to look contemporary, and to pop off the page. People often remember an outfit as much for the pattern as for the cut. At this point, letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s introduce a few simple principles about how to draw patterns on the clothed figure.

color roughs—swatches of patterns ABOUT COLOR: Many fashion illustrations are in black and white, and often include gray tones. If you’re working your way through this book with only a pencil or a pen, you can create these same patterns in black and white with varying degrees of gray. Before you decide on a pattern for an outfit, rough out a few designs. Create a few swatches of patterns, and add a variety of colors. Don’t restrict yourself. This is where you try things out. Not everything will work. Doesn’t matter. Experiment. Hold your drawing next to some of the swatches, and see which one catches your eye. Then go with that, or a combination of two or more. Here are a few popular types of patterns to get you started:

Animal spots

Vines

Animal stripes

Abstract

Geometric

Uneven stripes

Extra-large dots

Fat stripes

Floral

Plaid

Diagonal stripes

Lattice

style file: shoes & boots

Slipper shoe

Mule

High-heel sandal

Platform shoe

Open-toe high heel

Platform sandal

Pump Laced heel

110

Flat

Over-the-knee boot

Wedge-heel boot

Open-toe bootie

Short boot Loafer

111

resources Visit these websites for information, education, and supplies! Art and Design Schools

Art Supply Sources

California College of the Arts San Francisco, CA www.cca.edu

A. I. Friedman www.aifriedman.com

Fashion Institute of Design & Merchandising Los Angeles, CA fidm.edu Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) New York, NY www.fitnyc.edu Otis College of Art and Design Los Angeles, CA www.otis.edu Parsons, the New School for Design New York, NY www.newschool.edu/parsons Pratt Institute Brooklyn, NY www.pratt.edu Rhode Island School of Design Providence, RI www.risd.edu Savannah College of Art and Design Savannah, GA www.scad.edu School of the Art Institute of Chicago Chicago, CA www.saic.edu

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Artist & Craftsman Supply www.artistcraftsman.com Da Vinci Artist Supply www.davinciartistsupply.com Dick Blick Art Materials www.dickblick.com Leeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Art Shop www.leesartshop.com New York Central Art Supply www.nycentralart.com Pearl Fine Art Supplies www.pearlpaint.com Utrecht Art Supplies www.utrechtart.com

index A accessories, 108–125 angles, combining, 16–17 arms, 26 art supplies, 5–6 B bags, 114–119 blouses, 83–85 C coats, 80–82 collars, 64 comps, 73 complete looks, 92–95 creases, 67–69 D dresses, 89–91 E eyes, 39–43 F face, 39–61 feet, 32–33, 109 folds, 67–69 floral prints, 100 front views, 11, 12, 13, 28, 33, 39, 52–53, 58, 109 H hair, 46–51 hands, 28–31 hats, 120–125 head, 35–38, 52–61 horizontal planes, 18–19 J jackets, 81–82 L legs, 10, 12, 27 lips, 45

M makeup, 39–45 movement, 65–66, 74–75 N nose, 44 O organic prints, 100–101 P pants, 68, 86, 88 patterns, 96–107 plaids, 99 plus size, 10 polka dots, 98 poses, 18–27, 72–79 proportions, 9–11 R rear views, 11, 12, 15, 17, 28, 109 ruffles, 70 S shirts, 83–85 shoes, 109–113 shoulders, 63 side views, 11, 12, 14, 16, 17, 29, 32, 39, 44, 45, 56–57, 59, 109 skirts, 87–88 sleeves, 64, 72 stripes, 98, 104–105 T three-quarter views, 11, 12, 16, 54–55, 60–61, 109 torso, 11, 74 W waist, 64 workspace, 7

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Do you want to draw the human figure, but you’re intimidated by learning anatomy? Frustrated by figure-drawing books that focus more on bones and muscles than people? If so, Figure It Out! is the book for you. This fun and friendly guide teaches you how to effectively draw male and female figures

Waiting

without learning anatomy. You’ll start by learning to draw the head and facial expressions, then move on to complete figure poses, including clothed people and bodies in motion. This inspiring and entertaining book shows you everything you need to know to start drawing the figure—and nothing you don’t! CHRIS HART is the world’s best-selling author

of how-to-draw books.

Chris Hart Books FigureItOut! The Beginner’s Guide to Drawing People

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Sneak Peek

Talk

3:50 PM

Chris Hart

FigureItOut! The Beginner’s Guide to DrawingPeople

Art Instruction $19.95 US $25.95 CANADA

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Inside you'll find... ● Hundreds of figures

in varied poses

● Step-by-step drawin ● Artists’ secrets for

bringing drawings to life...and much more!

Chris Art Instruction Hart

Look for these other great titles from Chris Hart! Available wherever books are sold and at sixthandspringbooks.com.

DRAWING WITH Chris Hart

ART INSTRUCTION • DR AWING • FASHION

creative girls draw

sixthandspringbooks.com PRINTED IN CHINA

CHFashionDesignStudio_Cover_FINAL2.indd 1

Chris

Hart

Fashion Design Studio Learn to Draw Figures, Fashion, Hairstyles & More

Fashion Design Studio

DRAWING WITH

Inner Fashionista! $16.95 U.S. • $18.95 Canada ISBN: 978-1-936096-62-6

creative

girls draw

spine: 11.5mm

Fashion Design Studio

Learn to Draw Figures, Fashion, Hairstyles & More

Express Your

$16.95 US • $18.95 CAN

creative

girls draw

If you’re serious about style, pick up a pencil and start creating!

8/13/13 3:52 AM