Nicky Epstein's Knitting on Top of the World by Sixth&Spring Books

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Nicky Epstein KNITTING ON TOP OF THEWORLD

CRAFTS • KNITTING

Nicky Epstein Books

An imprint of Sixth&Spring Books

Nicky Epstein

KNITTING ON TOP OF THE WORLD T H E G L O B A L G U I D E TO T R A D I T I O N S , TECHNIQUES AND DESIGN Join Nicky Epstein on a world tour of knitting traditions and techniques, with more than 50 fabulous new designs. Nicky details the origin and use of classic knitting techniques—Fair Isle, appliqué,Aran and more—in folk-knitting traditions from around the globe, then reinvigorates and recombines these techniques in her own inimitable way to create all-new, innovative designs and traditions. PHOTOGRAPHY BY ROSE CALLAHAN

PRINTED IN CHINA

$19.95 US • $21.95 C AN Windswept Isles ■ Far North ■ Old World Europe ■ Around the Mediterranean ■ Far East ■ New World ■

ISBN: 978-1-936096-75-6 51995

9 781936 096756

T H E G L O B A L G U I D E TO T R A D I T I O N S , TECHNIQUES AND DESIGN

One of today’s most popular and beloved knitting designers and authors, Nicky Epstein has gained international recognition for her innovative work, whimsical and high-fashion sense of style, and informative workshops. She has authored many bestselling books, including Nicky Epstein:The Essential Edgings Collection, an anthology of her three popular edgings titles, Knitting on the Edge, Over the Edge and Beyond the Edge; Nicky Epstein Knitted Flowers; Nicky Epstein’s Signature Scarves; and two pattern collections for 18-inch dolls, Nicky Epstein Knits for Dolls and Nicky Epstein Crochet for Dolls. Her unique designs have appeared in Vogue Knitting ® and many other publications, as well as on television and in museums. Nicky lives in New York City and travels extensively around the world teaching and lecturing on the art and craft that she loves.

{

Nicky Epstein

Nicky Epstein Books

U.S. $ 1 9 .9 5 • C A N A DA $ 2 1 .9 5

THE GLOBAL G U I D E TO TRADITIONS, TECHNIQUES AND DESIGN

Nicky Epstein KNITTING ON TOP OF THE WORLD

Nicky Epstein KNITTING ON TOP OF THE WORLD T H E G L O B A L G U I D E TO T R A D I T I O N S , TECHNIQUES AND DESIGN

Nicky Epstein presents in this book a collection of new patterns unprecedented for a major designer in its size and scope: more than 50 gorgeous designs, drawing inspiration from knitting traditions around the world while staying true to her signature style. Knit around the world with Nicky and enjoy a designer’s view of knitting history, culture and techniques. Inside you’ll find: LIVELY, INFORMATIVE HISTORIES covering major knitting regions, including the Shetland Islands, Ireland, the Baltics, Germany, South America and more ILLUSTRATIONS AND EXPLANATIONS of traditional techniques, such as intarsia, Bohus and entrelac FULL-COLOR PHOTOGRAPHY AND CHARTS included with the pattern instructions

Nicky Epstein Books

An imprint of Sixth&Spring Books

NICKY EPSTEIN

Knitting On Top of theWorld

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T H E G L O B A L G U I D E TO TRADITIONS, TECHNIQUES AND DESIGN

Nicky Epstein Books An imprint of Sixth&Spring Books

Nicky World Knit_1-5_revise.qxp:Layout 1

4/3/14

■ to all knitters past, present and future

Nicky Epstein Books

An imprint of Sixth&Spring Books 161 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10013 Editorial Director JOY AQUILINO Developmental Editor LISA SILVERMAN Art Director DIANE LAMPHRON Associate Art Director SHEENA T. PAUL Supervising Instructions Editors CARLA SCOTT LORI STEINBERG Editorial Assistant JOHANNA LEVY Yarn Editor TANIS GRAY Research Editor DARYL BROWER Instructions Editors LISA BUCCELLATO JEANNIE CHIN PEGGY GREIG NANCY HENDERSON JENN JARVIS EVE NG WENDY PRESTON

Technical Illustrations JEANNIE CHIN JANE FAY Copyeditor KRISTINA SIGLER Bookings Manager RACHAEL STEIN Still Photography MARCUS TULLIS Stylist JULIE HINES Hair and Makeup INGEBORG KAIJZER ELENA LYAKIR ■ ■ ■

Vice President TRISHA MALCOLM Publisher CARRIE KILMER Production Manager DAVID JOINNIDES President ART JOINNIDES Chairman JAY STEIN

Copyright © 2008 by Nicky Epstein All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means—graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or information storage-and-retrieval systems— without written permission of the publisher. The written instructions, photographs, designs, projects and patterns are intended for the personal, noncommercial use of the retail purchaser and are under federal copyright laws; they are not to be reproduced in any form for commercial use. Permission is granted to photocopy patterns for the personal use of the retail purchaser. Resource information is current at time of publication. We are not responsible for any human or typographical errors. Paperback ISBN: 978-1-936096-75-6 Hardcover ISBN: 978-1-933027-67-8 Manufactured in China 13579108642 First Paperback Edition

vCover and principal photography by Rose Callahan

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C O N T E N T S Londonderry Rose Coat page 56

Introduction

Around the Mediterranean

Designing With Nicky

Far North History and Techniques 8–15 ■ Design Projects

ICELAND: Northern Lights Cardigan 16

DENMARK: Copenhagen Royal Shawl 20 LATVIA: Princess Bride Mittens 24 RUSSIA: St. Petersburg Camisole 28 ESTONIA: Baltic Cuffs and Cap 32 SWEDEN: Bohus Swing Coat 34 SCANDINAVIA: Snowflake Sweater Cape 38 NORWAY: Liten Olaf Sweater 42

Windswept Isles History and Techniques 44–51 ■ Design Projects

ISLE OF ARAN: Evening Gala Aran 52 ENGLAND: Londonderry Rose Coat 56 SCOTLAND: Sanquhar Bonny Socks 60 FAIR ISLE: Simply Smashing Cardigan 64 GUERNSEY: Cowl Collar Jumper 68 SCOTLAND: Hunter’s Argyle Socks 72 SCOTLAND: Highland Fling Plaid Jacket 74 IRELAND: Celtic Hooded Coat 78 FAIR ISLE: Faux Fair Isle Fairy Socks 82 SHETLAND ISLANDS: Edwardian Lace Coat 86 GREAT BRITAIN: World Class Wee Sweaters 92 FAIR ISLE: Fair Isle Tam Capelet 102 IRELAND: Galway Bay Shrug Shawl 106

Old World History and Techniques 110–115 ■ Design Projects

ITALY: Roman Holiday Shrug 116 FRANCE: Parisian Entrelac Wrap 120 BAVARIA: Black Forest Mitts 124 FRANCE: La Belle Cardigan 128 AUSTRIA: Austrian Alps Zip Jacket 132 GERMANY: Oktoberfest Glove Cuffs 136 AUSTRIA: Tyrolean Leg Warmers 140 ITALY: Florentine Shrug 142

History and Techniques 146–151 ■ Design Projects

SPAIN: Spanish Rose Trellis Scarf 152 SYRIA: Damascus Dream Dress 156 SPAIN: Señorita’s Floral Pullover 160 TURKEY: Ottoman Empire Jacket 164 SPAIN: El Matador Jacket 170 PORTUGAL: Lisbon Lace Jacket 174 EGYPT: Isis Tunic 178 GREECE: Greco Mosaic Bags 182

Far East History and Techniques 184–187 ■ Design Projects

CHINA: Shanghai Garden Scarf 188 JAPAN: Shibori Blossom Bag 192 JAPAN: Fuji Feather Lace Wrap 194 MONGOLIA: Mongolian Warrior Pullover 196 JAPAN: Hai-Riyo 200

New World History and Techniques 204–209 ■ Design Projects

PERU: Andes Tunic Vest 210 MEXICO: Fiesta Skirt 214 CANADA: Cowichan Vision Wrap Coat 218 U.S.A.: Great Bear Zip Tunic 222 BOLIVIA: La Paz Scarf & Cap 226 U.S.A.: Great Plains Blanket Bag 230 Abbreviations, Glossary, Skill Levels 234 Techniques A to Z 235 Yarn and Notions Resources 246 Bibliography 246 Index 247

FAR NORTH Scandinavia I c e l a n d L a t v i a R u s s i a E s t o n i a

■ NORTHERN WINDS, ICE AND SNOW, AND WARM AND WONDERFUL KNITS

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I c e l a n d

Northern Lights Cardigan T h i s

I c e l a n d i c - s t y l e

w i t h

i t s

c o l o r s , ■S K I L L E D

s p a r k l i n g r e f l e c t s

c a r d i g a n ,

b e a d s

t h e

a n d

s p i r i t

y o k e d

a n d

c r o p p e d ,

s h i m m e r i n g

o f

t h e

A u r o r a

B o r e a l i s .

KNITTER

W H AT YO U ’ L L

NEED

9 (10, 12) 1/3⁄4oz/50g balls (ea. approx 92yds/85m) of Berroco Inc.’s Pure Merino (100% extrafine merino wool) in #8516 ensign blue (MC) ■ 2 (3, 3) balls in #8534 black magic(D) ■ 1 ball ea. in #8519 lavender (A), #8549 fuschia (B) and #8550 grape jelly (C) ■ Sizes 7 (4.5mm) and 8 (5mm) 16" and 32" circular needles ■ Sizes 7 (4.5mm) and 8 (5mm) double-pointed needles ■ 70 (81, 90) 7mm faceted beads (purchase extra in case of breakage or loss) ■ Tapestry needle ■ Five 1"/2.5cm buttons ■ Scrap yarn for stitch holders ■ Fur collar optional ■

Sizes

Body

Small (Medium, Large)

Bust (closed): 37 (413⁄4, 47)"/94 (106, 118)cm Length: 181⁄2 (20, 211⁄4)"/45.5 (51, 54)cm

■ With MC and smaller needles, cast on 177 (201, 227) sts. Work in St st for 7 rows beg with a p row. Next row (RS) Purl for turning ridge. Change to larger needle and beg with row 2, work in Ridged rib for 10 (11, 12)"/25.5 (28, 30.5)cm, ending with row 4.

Gauge

Divide fronts and back

20 sts and 25 rows = 4"/10cm in Ridged rib on larger needles TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE.

■

Special stitches

Sleeves

Ridged rib for Body: Row 1 (RS) Knit. Row 2 Knit. Row 3 P1, *k1, p1; rep from * to end. Row 4 K1, *p1, k1; rep from * to end. Rep rows 1-4.

■ With MC and smaller dpns, cast on 51 (55, 59) sts. Pm and join for knitting in the rnd. K 7 rnds, p 1 rnd. Change to larger dpns and work in Ridged rib as foll: Inc rnd K1, m1, work in Ridged rib to 1 st before marker, m1, k1. Rep inc rnd every 8th rnd twice more–57 (61, 65) sts. Work even in pat until piece measures 14"/35.5cm from turning ridge, ending with row 4. Set-up rnd K to last 7 sts, bind off 14 sts–43 (47, 51) sts. Place on scrap yarn or stitch holder and work 2nd sleeve as for first.

Finished Measurements

■

Ridged rib for Sleeves (knitted in the round): Row 1 Knit. Row 2 Purl. Row 3 P1, *k1, p1; rep from * to end. Row 4 K1, *k1, p1; rep from * to end. Rep rows 1-4. ■

Next row (RS) K37 (43, 49) right front sts, bind off 14 sts, k75 (87, 101) back sts, bind off 14 sts, k37 (43, 49) left front sts. Place on scrap yarn or stitch holder.

Yoke ■ Joining row (WS) P37 (43, 49) sts of left front, p43 (47, 51) sts of sleeve, p75 (87, 101) sts of back, p43 (47, 51) sts of sleeve, p37 (43, 49) sts of right front–235 (267, 301) sts. Working 4 (4, 6) rows in St st with MC, dec 4 (0, 4) sts evenly across first row–231 (267, 297) sts.

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S c o t l a n d

Highland Fling Plaid Jacket I f

y o u

y o u ’ r e k n o w

h e a r

t h e

k n i t t i n g y o u ’ r e

o n

l i l t i n g t h i s t h e

s o u n d s

m o d e r n r i g h t

o f

p l a i d

b a g p i p e j a c k e t ,

w h e n

y o u ’ l l

t r a c k .

■ SKILLED KNITTER

W H AT YO U ’ L L

NEED

7 1.48oz/42g balls (ea. approx 90yds/82m) of Classic Elite Yarns La Gran (76.5% mohair/17.5% wool/6% nylon) in #6516 natural (A) ■ 4 balls #61538 mocha (B) ■ 3 balls ea. of #6575 pebble (C) and #6555 infa red (F) ■ 2 balls ea. #6545 barley (D) and #63520 winter sky (E) ■ Size 9 (5.5mm) needles OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE ■ Size 9 (5.5mm) double-pointed needles (2 dpns) ■ Stitch holders (or waste yarn) ■ Stitch markers ■ Tapestry needle ■ 2 Large hooks and eye in matching color ■

Sizes S (M, L)

row 12 (14, 16) times as foll: Dec row (RS) K1, ssk, k to end, AT SAME TIME, pm at side edge when front measures 181⁄2"/46cm from beg. Cont even on 27 (35, 43) sts until front is same length as back. Place sts on holder.

Finished Measurements Bust (closed): 40 (481⁄2, 57)"/101.5 (123, 145)cm Length: 271⁄2 (28, 281⁄2)"/70 (71, 72.5)cm

Left front Work same as right front, working dec at front edge as foll: Dec row (RS) K to last 3 sts, k2tog, k1. ■

Gauge 15 sts and 22 rows = 4"/10cm in St st. TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE. NOTE: vertical lines can be knit in or worked in duplicate st (see page 238) after the piece is knit.

Back ■ With B, cast on 75 (91, 107) sts. K 4 rows. Change to St st and work 9 rows of Chart 1 for border, beg and end as noted on chart. Cont in St st, work rows 1-58 of Chart 2 once, rows 17-58 once, then rows 17-38 once more, AT THE SAME TIME, when back measures 181⁄2"/47cm from beg, pm at each end of row for armholes. With A only, work even until back measures 271⁄2 (28, 281⁄2)"/70 (71, 72.5)cm from beg. Place sts on holder.

Right front ■ With B, cast on 39 (49, 59) sts. K 4 rows. Change to St st and work same as back, dec 1 st at front edge every 10th (8th, 8th)

Sleeves (make 2) ■ With C, cast on 60 sts. K 3 rows. Change to St st and work rows 39-58 of Chart 2 once, then rows 17-58 twice (or to desired length), AT THE SAME TIME, inc 1 st each side every 10th row 4 (6, 8) times–68 (72, 76) sts. Bind off.

Collar RIGHT SIDE ■ With A, cast on 29 sts. Work charts same as back, AT THE SAME TIME, dec 1 st at front edge every 10th row 10 times as foll: Dec row (RS) K1, k2tog, k to end. Cont even on 19 sts in stripe pat rep until collar measures 31 (311⁄2, 32)”/78.5 (80, 81.5)cm from beg. Place sts on holder.

O L D

W O R L D

I t a l y

Roman Holiday Shrug F i t

f o r

p e r f e c t

p r i n c e s s ,

t o p p e r

f o r

t h i s y o u r

e m b e l l i s h e d f a v o r i t e

s h r u g

i s

t h e

d r e s s — b e l l i s s i m a !

■ SKILLED KNITTER

W H AT YO U ’ L L

NEED

5 (6) 31⁄2oz/100g skeins (each approx 110yds/99m) of Reynolds/JCA Andean Alpaca Regal (90% alpaca/10% wool) in #6 off white ■ Size 10 (6mm) needles OR SIZE TO OBTAIN GAUGE ■ Cable needle ■ Tapestry needle ■

Sizes S/M (L/XL) Finished back length: 9 (111⁄4)"/23 (28.5)cm Cuff to cuff measurement: 30 (32)"/76 (81)cm

Gauge 16 sts and 22 rows = 4"/10cm in St st. TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE.

Pattern Glossary SMOCKING PATTERN (multiple of 16 sts + 12) ■ Rows 1, 3, 5 and 7 (RS) K3, p6, *[k2, p2] twice, k2, p6; rep from *, end k3. Rows 2, 4, 6 and 8 P3, *k6, [p2, k2] twice, p2; rep from *, end k6, p3. Row 9 K3, p2, k2, p2, *slip next 10 sts to cn and wind yarn 3 times around these sts, [k2, p6, k2] from cn, p2, k2, p2; rep from *, end k3. Row 10 P3, *[k2, p2] twice, k6, p2; rep from *, end k2, p2, k2, p3.

116

Rows 11, 13, 15, and 17 K3, p2, k2, *p2, k2, p6, k2, p2, k2; rep from *, end p2, k3. Rows 12, 14, 16 and 18 P3, k2, *p2, k2, p2, k6, p2, k2; rep from *, end p2, k2, p3. Row 19 K1, *slip next 10 sts to cn and wind yarn 3 times around these sts, [k2, p6, k2] from cn, p2, k2, p2; rep from *, end slip next 10 sts to cn and wind yarn 3 times around these sts, [k2, p6, k2] from cn, k1. Row 20 P3, k6, p2, *[k2, p2] twice, k6, p2; rep from *, end p1. Rep rows 1–20. HOLSTER PATTERN (multiple of 4 sts + 4) Row 1 (RS) Purl. Row 2 Knit. Row 3 (RS) P4, turn, *cast on 8 sts using knitted on cast-on, p4 turn; rep from * to end. Rows 4, 6, 8 and 10 K4, *p8, k4; rep from * to end. Rows 5, 7, 9 and 11 P4, *k8, p4; rep from * to end.

FAR EAST

J a p a n C h i n a K o r e a

■ EASTERN ART FUSES WITH WESTERN KNITTING

184

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J a p a n

Inspired by...

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...a fusion of Japanese Amigurumi and a Chinese New Year’s celebration dragon from my Chinatown neighborhood.

Hai-Riyo M y

f i r e - b r e a t h i n g ,

t h a n a n d

t h e

o r i g i n a l

p e r s o n a l i t y

f l y i n g

f r i e n d

A m i g u r u m i

h a s

a n i m a l

m o r e

d e t a i l

p a t t e r n s ,

p l u s !

■ SKILLED KNITTER

W H AT YO U ’ L L

NEED

1 31⁄2oz/100g skein (ea. approx 210yds/193m) of Berroco Inc. Comfort (50% superfine nylon/50% superfine acrylic) in #9750 primary red (A) ■ 1 .88oz/25g hank (ea. approx 95yds/87m) of Berroco Inc. Lumina (54% cotton/36% acrylic/10% metallic) in #1620 gold coast (B) ■ Size 7 (4.5mm) needles or size to obtain gauge ■ Stitch marker ■ Tapestry needle ■ Fiberfill ■ Two 5mm beads for eyes ■ Wire (optional) ■

Next row (RS) K20, ssk, k16, k2tog, pm, k20–58 sts.

Size Approx 13 ⁄2"H x 5 ⁄4"W x 8"D/34 x 14.5 x 20cm 1

Gauge 18 sts and 26 rows = 4"/10cm in St st. TAKE TIME TO CHECK GAUGE. NOTE: Use 2 strands of B held together wherever B is used.

Next row Purl. Next row K20, ssk, k to 2 sts before next marker, k2tog, k20–56 sts. Rep last 2 rows until 44 sts rem. P next WS row. Next row K20, ssk, k2tog, k20–42 sts.

Neck Tail With A, cast on 3 sts. Rows 1-6 Work in St st. Row 7 (RS) Kfb, k to last st, kfb–5 sts. Row 8 Purl. Rep rows 1-8 five times more–15 sts. Cont even in St st until tail measures approx 7.5"/19cm from beg, end with a WS row. ■

Next (dec) row (RS) [K2, ssk] 5 times, [k2, k2tog] 5 times, k2–32 sts. Next row Purl. Next row [K1, ssk] 5 times, k2, [k2tog, k1] 5 times–22 sts. Work even in St st for 11⁄2"/4cm, end with a WS row. Next (dec) row (RS) K1, k2tog, k to last 3 sts, ssk, k1–20 sts. Cont in St st, working dec row every 10th row until 10 sts rem, then every 4th row twice–6 sts. Work even in St st for 11⁄2"/4cm, end with a WS row. ■

Body Next (inc) row (RS) *Kfb; rep from * to end – 30 sts. Next row Purl. Rep inc row–60 sts. Work even in St st for 21⁄2"/6.5cm, end with a WS row. ■

200

Head Next (inc) row (RS) *Kfb; rep from * to end–12 sts. Next row Purl. Next (inc) row [K1, kfb] 5 times, k2–17 sts. ■

NE KOTOTW_PPB Cover_FINAL:Layout 1

4/10/14

3:45 PM

Page 1

Nicky Epstein KNITTING ON TOP OF THEWORLD

CRAFTS • KNITTING

Nicky Epstein Books

An imprint of Sixth&Spring Books

Nicky Epstein

PRINTED IN CHINA

$19.95 US • $21.95 C AN Windswept Isles ■ Far North ■ Old World Europe ■ Around the Mediterranean ■ Far East ■ New World ■

ISBN: 978-1-936096-75-6 51995

9 781936 096756

T H E G L O B A L G U I D E TO T R A D I T I O N S , TECHNIQUES AND DESIGN

{

Nicky Epstein

Nicky Epstein Books

U.S. $ 1 9 .9 5 • C A N A DA $ 2 1 .9 5

THE GLOBAL G U I D E TO TRADITIONS, TECHNIQUES AND DESIGN

Nicky Epstein KNITTING ON TOP OF THE WORLD

Nicky Epstein KNITTING ON TOP OF THE WORLD T H E G L O B A L G U I D E TO T R A D I T I O N S , TECHNIQUES AND DESIGN

Nicky Epstein Books

An imprint of Sixth&Spring Books