Nicky Epstein The Essential Edgings Collection

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”An innovative and beautiful edging can transform a simple knitted piece into something sublime, in the same way the right frame can complement, complete, and enhance a lovely painting, taking it to a new level.” — NICKY EPSTEIN, from the Introduction “Nicky Epstein's imagination knows no limits. . . . [Her] imaginative and beautiful knitted edgings and embellishments provide an endless source of creative ideas to inspire the rest of us.” —PAM ALLEN, knitwear designer

“Nicky's edgings are nothing less than eye candy for knitters. Their thorough yet beautiful presentation, each with written instructions, stitch charts, and color photographs, makes every design absolutely clear.“ —TRISHA MALCOLM, Editorial Director, Vogue® Knitting

”Any knitter who has designed a garment comes to the problem of appropriate and original edging. Nicky Epstein addresses this subject with a fresh variety that should inspire knitters who are looking for unusual finishings.“ —KAFFE FASSETT, textile artist, master of color, and co-author of Knitting with The Color Guys

$29.95 US • $35.95 Canada ISBN 978-1-936096-47-3

52995

9 781936 096473

NickyEpsteinvthe essential edgings collection 500 OF HER FAVORITE ORIGINAL BORDERS

crafts • knitting

v

Nicky Epstein Books

NickyEpsteinv the essential edgings collection

5OO

O F H E R FAV O R I T E ORIGINAL BORDERS


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Nicky Epstein Books

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An imprint of Sixth&Spring Books 161 Avenue of the Americas, New York, NY 10013 sixthandspringbooks.com

acknowledgments

Editorial Director

Thank you, as always, to Sixth&Spring Books and the staff there for making all of the amazing edging books, and bringing them together into this single volume for all to enjoy. I must give credit to Trisha Malcolm, Art Joinnides, Joy Aquilino, Carla Scott, Diane Lamphron, Chi Ling Moy, and all the other folks who have played a part in making this book.

Instructions Editors

JOY AQUILINO

LISA BUCCELLATO LOUISA CAMERON-SMITH Art Director RITA GREENFEDER CHI LING MOY EVE NG Book Division Managers CHARLOTTE PARRY MICHELLE LO SANDI PROSSER ERICA SMITH CHARLOTTE QUIGGLE

Associate Editor ERIN WALSH

Executive Editor CARLA SCOTT

Instructions Proofreaders

Vice President, Publisher TRISHA MALCOLM

Creative Director JOE VIOR

Production Manager DAVID JOINNIDES

President ART JOINNIDES

MARY LOU EASTMAN NANCY HENDERSON

Yarn Editor VERONICA MANNO

Technical Illustrations ULI MONCH

Graphic Designers MATT DOJNY SHEENA T. PAUL LOIRA WALSH

Photography

Gratitude of course goes to Jack Deutsch and his staff for the glorious photography, and thanks again to my team of knitters and other help on the previous books: Lisa Buccellato, Joni Coniglio, Eileen Curry, Mary Lou Eastman, Nancy Henderson, Valerie Kurita, Veronica Manno, Charlotte Parry, Sandi Prosser, Julie Sabella, Herris Stenzel, and Dianne Weitzul. To Howard, my husband, thanks for everything! For the yarn used in the book, I am grateful to Diane Friedman and Stacy Charles of Tahki Stacy Charles—with special thanks for their Zara yarn, which is shown on the cover—as well as to Arthur Karapetyan and Rachel Greenstein of Karabella Yarns.

JACK DEUTSCH STUDIO

Copyright © 2012 by Nicky Epstein All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means—graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or information storage and retrieval systems—without written permission of the publisher. The written instructions, photographs, designs, projects, and patterns are intended for the personal, noncommercial use of the retail purchaser and are under federal copyright laws; they are not to be reproduced in any form for commercial use. Permission is granted to photocopy patterns for the personal use of the retail purchaser. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the contents of this publication. We are not responsible for any human or typographical errors. Library of Congress Control Number: 2012937687 ISBN 978-1-936096-47-3 Manufactured in China 1 3 5 7 9 10 8 6 4 2 First Edition

And a very special thank you to all my readers, students, designers, knitters, and yarn shop owners around the world who have so enthusiastically embraced my work. You all keep me knitting on, over, and beyond the edge! resources Karabella Yarns 1201 Broadway New York, NY 10001 www.karabellayarns.com Tahki Stacy Charles, Inc. 70-60 83rd Street, Building #12 Glendale, NY 11385 www.tahkistacycharles.com


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contents introduction textures size ribs & fringe ruffles lace flora points & picots cords corners & edges appliquĂŠs colors nouveau glossary techniques index

4 6 8 10 56 74 90 116 132 152 172 184 228 252 254 255


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introduction An innovative and beautiful edging can transform a simple knitted piece into something sublime, in the same way the right frame can complement, complete, and enhance a lovely painting, taking it to a new level.

Knitting on the Edge was my first book of edgings, but it was just the tip of the iceberg, despite having more than 350 wonderful edgings. Next came Knitting Over the Edge, because there were still so many more edgings I wanted to share! This book offered more amazing ways to embellish or finish a piece, including cords, appliqués, and colorwork, many of which I created especially for the book.

Knitting Beyond the Edge explored the world of cuffs and collars using stitch patterns—a new take on the way an edging can become the perfect finishing touch to your piece. Now, I’ve taken my favorite edgings from all three books—all my own original designs—and put them into one handy reference for you. I hope this book will, as the others did for countless students, designers, and knitters, inspire you to try new techniques and looks, expanding your creative skills. Happy knitting,

Nicky Epstein 5


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t e x t u r e To illustrate the effect of texture and gauge, the following swatches show the same leaf edging knit with a variety of yarns to create

1

4

totally different looks. Yarn with a smooth finish and tight twist will produce a much crisper effect, whereas plush textures such as angora or mohair create a soft focus that has a gentle appeal. Don’t shy away from novelty yarns— with these, you can knit the most creative borders of all.

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1 bouclé

7 bulky wool

2 linen

8 silk

3 angora

9 silk wool

4 chenille

10 mohair

5 eyelash

11 cashmere

6 ribbon

12 alpaca

2

6 3 6


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s i z e

13

With the wide variety of yarns available, it’s important to carefully consider yarn size when knitting. For these swatches, I used needles ranging from size #2 to #15 and corresponding yarn. An edging or border takes on an altogether different personality when the scale is varied from very fine to extra chunky. Traditional edgings will adopt a much more contemporary look when worked with bulky yarns.

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13 thick and thin 14 baby fine wool 15 cotton

15

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n o t e s on using this book Directional Symbols

There are several ways to create edgings: knitting from the bottom up, knitting from the top down, or knitting separately, then turning the edging horizontally in order to pick up stitches along the selvage edge or sewing onto the main piece. In most of the instructions, we have used the symbols shown below to indicate the direction in which the edging was knit. In many cases, the edgings in this book are reversible.

Knit from bottom up: Cast-on edge is the lower edge. Knit from the top down: Bound-off edge is the lower edge. Knit separately: Stitches can be picked up or sewn on. Reversible: Both sides are the same or equally attractive. Knit separately: Stitches are joined together onto one needle, sometimes adding stitches in between, then the edging continues upward.

The center is worked separately, then encased by picking up stitches along bottom and top and working in either direction. Standard Yarn Weights

You are free to use any yarn you like in knitting the edgings, and the Standard Yarn Weight System is the most useful tool for picking yarn or making substitutions. Always knit a gauge swatch; see Textures and Size for examples of how changing the yarn can change the look of the finished piece. Making Bobbles

Making Cords

There are many different ways to make bobbles. We’ve included instructions for the most

When making cords, use two double-pointed needles or one short circular needle, unless

basic ones on pages 252 and 254 for you to use as desired. Some variations to these basic

otherwise indicated. The cords are made separately, then either sewn on or knit into the piece

bobbles have been written out at the beginning of the edging instruction.

to form the edging. If you sew on the cord, use a tapestry needle and the same yarn used to make the cord. Pin the cord in place on top of the fabric. Use small running stitches and work from the wrong side, catching the cord with each stitch. For a glossary of terms and abbreviations used in this book, see pages 252–255.

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ribs &

woven braid

Cast on 22 sts. Rows 1 and 5 Knit.

Row 2 and all WS rows Purl. Row 3 K7, 6-st LC twice, k3. Row 7 K4, 6-st RC 3 times. Row 8 Purl. Rep rows 1 to 8 until desired length, end with a RS row. Bind off 17 sts, fasten off 18th st. Sl rem 4 sts off needle and unravel them on every row for fringe.

celtic princess braid

Cast on 34 sts.

Prep row (WS) P1, k3, [p6, k4] twice, p3, k1, p6. Row 1 K6, p1, k3, [p4, 6-st LC] twice, p3, k1. Row 2 and all WS rows K the knit sts and p the purl sts. Row 3 K6, p1, [3/2 LPC, 3/2 RPC] twice, 3/2 LPC, p1, k1. Row 5 K6, p3, [6-st RC, p4] twice, k3, p1, k1. Row 7 K6, p1, [3/2 RPC, 3/2 LPC] twice, 3/2 RPC, p1, k1. Rep rows 1 to 8 until desired length, end with a RS row. Bind off 27 sts, fasten off 28th st. Sl rem 6 sts off needle and unravel them on every row for fringe. Cut loops and trim.

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fringe saxon braid

Cast on 35 sts.

Row 11 Rep row 9.

Rows 1 and 3 (WS) P1, k4 [p4, k4] 3 times, p1, p5.

Row 12 K5, k1 tbl, p2, k2, p2, [2/2 LPC, 2/2 RPC] twice, p2,

Row 2 K5, k1 tbl [p4, 4-st RC] 3 times, p4, k1 tbl.

k2, p2, k1 tbl.

Row 4 K5, k1 tbl, p3, 2/1 RPC, [2/2 LPC, 2/2 RPC] twice, 2/1

Row 13 P1, k2, p2, [k4, p4] twice, k4, p2, k2, p1, p5.

LPC, p3, k1 tbl.

Row 14 K5, k1 tbl, p2, 2/1 LPC, p3, 4-st LC, p4, 4-st LC, p3,

Row 5 P1, k3, p2, k3, p4, k4, p4, k3, p2, k3, p1, p5.

2/1 RPC, p2, k1 tbl.

Row 6 K5, k1 tbl, p2, 2/1 RPC, p3, 4-st LC, p4, 4-st LC, p3, 2/1

Row 15 P1, k3, p2, k3, p4, k4, p4, k3, p2, k3, p1, p5.

LPC, p2, k1 tbl.

Row 16 K5, k1 tbl, p3, 2/1 LPC, [2/2 RPC, 2/2 LPC] twice, 2/1

Row 7 P1, k2, p2, [k4, p4] twice, k4, p2, k2, p1, p5.

RPC, p3, k1 tbl.

Row 8 K5, k1 tbl, p2, k2, p2, [2/2 RPC, 2/2 LPC] twice, p2,

Rep rows 1 to 16 until desired length, end with a RS row.

k2, p2, k1 tbl.

Bind off 29 sts, fasten off 30th st.

Row 9 P1, [k2, p2] twice, k4, p4, k4 [p2, k2] twice, p1, p5.

Sl rem 5 sts off needle and unravel them on every row for

Row 10 K5, k1 tbl, [p2, k2] twice, p4, 4-st RC, p4, [k2, p2]

fringe.

twice, k1 tbl.

Cut loops and trim.

balanced rings Wrap 4

Row 2 K5, k1 tbl, p5, wrap 4, p2, [k1, p1] 4 times, k1, p2,

Row 12 K5, k1 tbl, p2, 1/1 LPC, p5, 3/3 RPC, k1 tbl, 3/3 LPC, p5,

Sl 4 sts to cn, wrap yarn counterclockwise once around these

wrap 4, p5, k1 tbl.

1/1 RPC, p2, k1.

4 sts, then k4 from cn.

Row 4 K5, k1 tbl, p4, 1/1 RPC, 3/1 LPC, p1, [k1, p1] 5 times,

Row 13 P1, k3, p1, k5, p3, [k1, p1] 3 times, k1, p3, k5, p1, k3, p1,

Dec 6

1/3 RPC, 1/1 LPC, p4, k1 tbl.

k5.

Sl 4 wyif, *pass 2nd st on RH needle over the center st,

Row 5 P1, k4, p1, k2, p3, [k1, p1] 5 times, k1, p3, k2, p1, k4, p1, k5.

Row 14 K5, k1 tbl, p3, 1/1 LPC, p2, 2/3 RPC, p1, [k1, p1] 3 times,

sl center st back to LH needle and pass 2nd st on LH needle

Row 6 K5, k1 tbl, p3, 1/1 RPC, p2, 3/2 LPC, [p1, k1] 3 times, p1,

3/2 LPC, p2, 1/1 RPC, p3, k1 tbl.

over it, sl center st back to RH needle; rep from * twice more.

2/3 RPC, p2, 1/1 LPC, p3, k1 tbl.

Row 15 P1, k4, p1, k2, p3, [k1, p1] 5 times, k1, p3, k2, p1, k4, p1,

Pick up yarn and k center st.

Row 7 P1, k3, p1, k5, p3, [k1, p1] 3 times, k1, p3, k5, p1, k3, p1, k5.

k5.

Inc 2

Row 8 K5, k1 tbl, p2, 1/1 RPC, p5, 3/3 LPC, k1, 3/3 RPC, p5,

Row 16 K5, k1 tbl, p4, 1/1 LPC, 1/3 RPC, [p1, k1] 5 times, p1,

K1 tbl in the row below next st, but do not drop from LH nee-

1/1 LPC, p2, k1 tbl.

3/1 LPC, 1/1 RPC, p4, k1 tbl.

dle, k1, k1 tbl in same st.

Row 9 P1, k2, p1, k9, dec 6, k9, p1, k2, p1, k5.

Rep rows 1 to 16 until desired length, end with a RS row.

Row 10 K5, k1 tbl, p2, k1, p9, M1, inc 2, M1, p9, k1, p2, k1 tbl.

Next row (WS) Bind off 32 sts, fasten off 33rd st.

Rows 1 and 3 (WS) P1, k5, p4, k2, [p1, k1] 4 times, p1, k2, p4, k5,

Row 11 P1, k2, p1, k9, p2, [p1, yo, p1] in next st, p2, k9, p1, k2,

Sl rem 5 sts off needle and unravel them on every row for

p1, k5.

p1, k5.

fringe. Cut loops and trim.

Cast on 38 sts.

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ruffles v


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ruffles

spoke picot combo Work Picot Hem (see page 119) then work Spoke Point Ruffle (see page 66).

basic ruffle with picot hem

(Cast on 3 times the number of sts needed that is a multiple of 2 sts plus 1) Work in St st for 1â „2"/1.25cm, end with a WS row. Picot row (RS) K1, *yo, k2tog; rep from * to end. Beg with a p row and cont in St st or desired pat until desired length, end with a WS row. Next (dec) row K3tog across, end k1. Fold hem at picot row and sew in place, then cont as desired.

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spiral ruffle

(multiple of 4 sts) Row 1 (RS) *K4, yo; rep from *, end k4. Row 2 and WS rows Purl. Row 3 *K5, yo; rep from *, end k4. Row 4 Purl. Cont as established, working incs on every RS row, and working 1 st more in each rep, until desired length. Bind off.

peplum ruffle

(multiple of 5 sts plus 4) Row 1 (RS) K3 *inc1 twice, k3; rep from *, end last rep k4. Row 2 and all WS rows Purl. Row 3 K4 *inc1 twice, k5; rep from *, end last rep k5. Row 5 K5, *inc1 twice, k7; rep from *, end last rep k6. Row 7 K6, *inc1 twice, k9; rep from *, end last rep k7. Row 9 K7, *inc1 twice, k11; rep from *, end last rep k8. Cont as established, working incs on every RS row, and working 2 sts more in each rep, until desired length. Bind off.

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v

”An innovative and beautiful edging can transform a simple knitted piece into something sublime, in the same way the right frame can complement, complete, and enhance a lovely painting, taking it to a new level.” — NICKY EPSTEIN, from the Introduction “Nicky Epstein's imagination knows no limits. . . . [Her] imaginative and beautiful knitted edgings and embellishments provide an endless source of creative ideas to inspire the rest of us.” —PAM ALLEN, knitwear designer

“Nicky's edgings are nothing less than eye candy for knitters. Their thorough yet beautiful presentation, each with written instructions, stitch charts, and color photographs, makes every design absolutely clear.“ —TRISHA MALCOLM, Editorial Director, Vogue® Knitting

”Any knitter who has designed a garment comes to the problem of appropriate and original edging. Nicky Epstein addresses this subject with a fresh variety that should inspire knitters who are looking for unusual finishings.“ —KAFFE FASSETT, textile artist, master of color, and co-author of Knitting with The Color Guys

$29.95 US • $35.95 Canada ISBN 978-1-936096-47-3

52995

9 781936 096473

NickyEpsteinvthe essential edgings collection 500 OF HER FAVORITE ORIGINAL BORDERS

crafts • knitting

v

Nicky Epstein Books

NickyEpsteinv the essential edgings collection

5OO

O F H E R FAV O R I T E ORIGINAL BORDERS


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