Vogue Knitting: The Learn-to-Knit Book by Sixth&Spring Books

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VOGUEKNITTING

THE LEARN-TO-KNIT BOOK THE EDITORS OF VOGUE KNIT TING MAGAZINE ®

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104 West 27th Street, 3rd Floor New York, NY 10001 Copyright © 2020 by SOHO Publishing LLC / Sixth&Spring Books All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or used in any form or by any means—graphic, electronic, or mechanical, including photocopying, recording, or information storage-and-retrieval systems—without written permission of the publisher. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data

Title: Vogue Knitting: The Learn-to-Knit Book / The editors of Vogue Knitting Magazine. Other titles: Vogue Knitting International. Description: First edition. | New York, NY : Sixth&Spring Books, 2020. Includes index. LCCN 2019033995 | ISBN 9781640210639 LCSH: Knitting. | Knitting--Patterns. LCC TT820 .V6266 2020 | DDC 746.43/2041--dc23 LC record available at https://lccn.loc.gov/2019033995 Book and cover design by Diane Lamphron Cover photography by Marcus Tullis MANUFACTURED IN CHINA FIRST EDITION 1 3 5 7 9 10 8 6 4 2

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Carla Scott EDITOR Pam Wissman ART DIRECTION & DESIGN Diane Lamphron KNITTER Lori Steinberg

CHIEF EXECUTIVE OFFICER Caroline Kilmer PRESIDENT Art Joinnides CHAIRMAN Jay Stein

YARN EDITOR Matthew Schrank PHOTOGRAPHY • STILL-LIFE Pages 2, 3, 16, and all instruction photos: MARCUS TULLIS Pages 8–13: JACK DEUTSCH • FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY Pages 89, 113 : Paul Amato for LVARepresents.com Pages 66–69, 72–73, 75, 91, 103, 105, 107, 111, 121: ROSE CALLAHAN Pages 70–73, 77, 81–87, 93, 95, 97-101, 107, 114–119, 122–126: JACK DEUTSCH Page 79: Kip Meyer Page 109: Marco Zambelli

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12 CO N T EN T S

GETTING STARTED 9

Yarns 10 Needles

BEYOND KNITTING & PURLING 28

Checking Your Gauge 29

Knitting Abbreviations 31

More Tools of the Trade 1 4

Understanding Schematics 32

Organizing Principles 16

Decreasing 33

Holding the Yarn: English and Continental 17

Increasing 34

Casting On 17

Knitting in the Round 36

Knit Stitch 20

How to Use Double-Pointed Needles 37

Purl Stitch 22 Binding Off 24 Joining Yarn 27

Helpful Techniques 34

Quick Fixes for Common Mistakes 38

Weaving in Ends 27

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345 A BASIC STITCH SAMPLER 41

Ribbing 44

FINISHING 53

SIMPLE PATTERNS 61

Basic Textures 45

Finishing Your Work with Blocking 54

Raised Stitches 47

Joining Your Work with Seams 55

BEGINNER Wide Striped Cowl 66

Lace 49

Picking Up Stitches 57

Paper Bag Hat 68

Basic Cables 51

Creating Buttonholes 58

Pompom Wrap 70

Skill Levels 62

Turtleneck Poncho 72 Ribbed Cowl 74 Striped Mesh Pullover 76 Sleeveless Shell 78 Turtleneck Tunic 80 Simple Cardigan 82 VERY EASY Hat & Cowl Set 86 Lace Cowl 88 Textured Wrap 90 Scarf & Headband 92 Short-Sleeve Pullover & Scarf 94 Drop-Shoulder Pullover 96 Chunky Cardigan 99 Simple Pullover 102 Double-Seed-Stitch Pullover 104 EASY Garter & Cable Scarf 106 Simple Hat & Scarf 108 Pull-Through Wrap 110 Slouchy Hat 112 Mohair Cardigan 114 Cropped Eyelet Pullover 117 Bucket Hat 120 Gradient Wrap 122 Placket-Neckline Poncho 124 INDEX 127 RESOURCES 128 7

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Learning to Knit Knitting has timeless appeal. The same knitted stitches that date as far back as the 11th century are still practiced by a vibrant community of knitters today. Why does a craft that could have easily been made obsolete by machine-made knits have such staying power? As any knitter will tell you, knitting offers an abundance of benefits, whether it’s the relaxing and meditative movement of the hands, the creative expression that is possible in each knitted project, or the satisfaction of making items that are both useful and beautiful. Ultimately, knitting is fulfilling—and fun! Learning any new skill can seem daunting at first, but knitting is actually very simple. Just remember this: All knitting is made up of two basic stitches—the knit and the purl. Working with these stitches is as easy or as complicated as you choose to make it. You don’t have to master the advanced aspects of knitting before you can create stunning garments and gifts that you will be proud to say you made by hand. This book will give you all the information you need to begin. Read on to discover more reasons to pick up a pair of knitting needles and yarn so you can start knitting now.

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C HAP TER G ETTING 1 * G ETTING STARTESTARTE D D

1 Getting Started

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Start Exploring Now that you know the benefits of learning to knit, it’s time to join in the fun. Before you get started, you’ll want to visit your local yarn shop or the yarn section of a craft store to get a feel for what’s out there and to start gathering some supplies. Spend some time searching the internet for knitting-oriented websites. You can shop for just about anything without leaving your desk, but most knitters can’t resist the visual, tactile, and social pleasures of the yarn-shop experience. When you visit your local yarn shop, introduce yourself as a new knitter. You’ll be thrilled at the enthusiastic response—and this connection will come in handy later if you run into trouble and need some technical help.

Yarns smooth yarn—it’s easier to work with, doesn’t split, and is more forgiving. And choose a light color—it’s easier to see. Yarn is organized by weight (thickness) and ranges from super-fine to super-bulky. For your first project, we recommend a worsted or mid-weight yarn. Nearly all yarn comes with a ball band or label clearly stating the recommended needle size and gauge. Always save the ball band as it is the source of lots more useful information, including fiber content and care

One of the most compelling reasons for taking up the craft of knitting is the abundance of fabulous knitting materials available from yarn shops, craft chains, and online suppliers. CHOOSING YOUR FIRST YARN

In your excitement to start knitting, you may be eager to purchase textured novelty yarns, bulky yarns, and luxury fibers (like cashmere, angora, and alpaca). Be patient. We recommend learning with a basic

instructions (see below). Most commercial yarn you’ll run across will be in the form of a ball (round) or skein (oblong), with the yarn pulling out from the center. You might find a yarn you love that’s “put up” in hank form, which will have to be wound into a ball. If the yarn shop can’t do that for you, enlist a friend (or kid) to act as a human swift while you wind the ball.

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HOW TO READ A YARN LABEL

Knowing how to read the basic elements of a yarn label will help you choose the right yarn and needles for your projects. 1. YARN WEIGHT

6. FIBER

3. CARE GUIDE

8. YARN NAME

2. ORIGIN 4. GAUGE

5. NEEDLE SIZE

7. PUT-UP/ YARDAGE 9. YARN COMPANY

10. COLOR & DYE LOT

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WOOL

BOUCLÉ

ALPACA

MERINO

LINEN TYPES OF YARN

The fiber and texture choices out there are pretty staggering, but fun to explore. Let’s start with your traditional worsteds. These smooth, medium-weight yarns are the classic choice for sweaters; they make stitch patterns stand out and are generally the easiest for beginners to work with. Then there are the fuzzy, textured yarns like angora, mohair, bouclé (which looks like little curlicues), and chenille. You’ll find them in allnatural wool, cashmere, cotton, alpaca, and other animal or plant fibers; acrylic and nylon; or blends of two or more fibers. These give lots of texture but can be a bit trickier to knit with since it’s harder to see your stitches. Next are the novelties, such as faux fur, eyelash, twist, and combination yarns. These are great for making something incredibly simple (a garter-stitch scarf, for instance) look totally special. We also like them for accents on collars and cuffs. Like textured yarns, novelty yarns make it a bit tricky to see stitches, but they also hide a multitude of beginner mistakes.

SILK

MOHAIR

CASHMERE

COTTON

ANGORA ACRYLIC

CHENILLE

FAUX FUR

EYELASH

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Knit Stitch After you’re comfortable with casting on, you can begin knitting. There are two different ways to make each knit stitch: the English method or the Continental method. Try both and use whichever one feels most comfortable.

It may take some time to feel at ease, but keep practicing and soon the knit stitch will feel natural. The first row after the caston row is the most difficult. A friend who is an experienced knitter can help make the learning process easier.

KNIT STITCH: ENGLISH

1. Hold the needle with the cast-on stitches in your left hand. Hold the working needle in your right hand, wrapping the yarn around your fingers. Insert the right needle from front to back into the first cast-on stitch on the left needle. Keep the right needle under the left needle and the yarn at the back.

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3. With the right needle, catch the yarn and pull it through the cast-on stitch.

2. Wrap the yarn under and over the right needle in a clockwise motion.

4. Slip the cast-on stitch off the left needle, leaving the newly formed stitch on the right needle. Repeat these steps in each subsequent stitch until all stitches have been worked from the left needle. You have made one row of knit stitches. ■

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KNIT STITCH: CONTINENTAL

1. Hold the needles in the same way as the English method, but hold the yarn with your left hand rather than your right. Insert the right needle from front to back into the first cast-on stitch on the left needle. Keep the right needle under the left needle, with the yarn at the back. 3

3. With the tip of the right needle, pull the strand through the cast-on stitch, holding the strand with the right index finger if necessary.

2. Lay the yarn over the right needle as shown.

4. Slip the cast-on stitch off the left needle, leaving the newly formed stitch on the right needle. Continue to repeat these steps until you have worked all of the stitches from the left needle to the right needle. You have made one row of knit stitches. â&#x2013;

GARTER STITCH

The garter stitch is the simplest of all stitch patterns and is completed by knitting every row. The end result will be a flat, reversible, ridged fabric that will stand up well to wear and will not roll at the edges. After you reach the end of the first row of knit stitches, move the full needle to your left hand and begin knitting each stitch all over again. Once you have completed several rows, youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll start to see the results. As you get deeper into the project, your growing strip of garter stitch will begin to look like a real piece of knitted fabric.

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C HAPTE R 2 â&#x20AC;¢ BEYOND KNITTING & P U RLI N G

2 Beyond Knitting & Purling

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Moving Ahead with Techniques There’s more to knitting than the basic knit and purl stitches. Once you’ve used them to create scarves to your heart’s content and blankets for all the babies among your friends and family, it’s time to advance to go further. The techniques of shaping, ribbing, reading schematics, and getting the right stitch gauge are simple, and learning them will open you up to new knitting horizons. Once you learn these next steps, you’re almost ready for the exciting world of sweater making!

Checking Your Gauge Knitting gauge—the number of rows and stitches per inch—determines the size of the garment (or bag, or blanket) you are making. It’s also one of the most important factors in your knitting. Every pattern states the gauge on which the sizing for the project is based. If you don’t get it right, you risk ending up with a garment that doesn’t fit. And since everything from the size and brand of the needles you’re using to how loosely or tightly you knit can affect your gauge, you should always, always, always test your knitting against the pattern gauge before you begin the project. How do you do this? Simple.

1. Use a tape measure or ruler to measure four inches across the swatch. Shown here is the tape measure over the stitches between the garter selvage stitches. Count the number of stitches in those four inches. Compare this number to the stitches given in the stated gauge.

You make a gauge swatch. The gauge swatch is the first step in garment making. This is a square piece of knitted fabric that demonstrates how you, the needles, and the yarn interact before you get going on the main project. You will find a recommended gauge, or stitches and rows per inch, at the beginning of the instructions on every project, usually directly beneath the suggestions for yarn weight and needle size. To create the gauge swatch, gather the exact yarn and needles you plan to use for your project. Even the smallest differences such as yarn color and needle brand can

2. Using the same ruler or tape, measure from the bottom to the top of the swatch. Shown here is the tape measure over the rows between the garter stitch rows. Count the number of rows in those four inches. Compare this number to the rows given in the stated gauge.

affect your gauge. Cast on enough stitches to create a square at least 4 inches wide— anywhere from 12-20 depending upon the size of the needles and the thickness of the yarn you are using should do it.You can use the number of stitches recommended in the pattern gauge as a guide. Then knit or work in the specified stitch pattern until the square is a little more than four inches high. Slip the stitches off the needle, bind off, and put the swatch down on a table or other smooth, hard surface.

3. You can also use a stitch gauge to get the same results. Place the gauge on your swatch and count the stitches across horizontally and the rows vertically, that appear in the window.

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G O O D T O K NO W WHAT IS A STITCH GAUGE?

A stitch gauge is a flat rectangle of metal or plastic that simplifies the process of measuring gauge by providing a little window through which you can easily count stitches. First, lay your knitting down on a flat surface and then line up the L-shaped window with the corner of a stitch. Count the number of Vs in the window (both horizontally and vertically) to get accurate stitch and row gauges. Another feature of stitch gauges is a row of holes that can be used to identify the size of unmarked needles. To do this, slip the needle into holes of increasing size until you reach a hole that lets the needle pass all the way through. The corresponding number is the needle size.

RECHECK YOUR GAUGE

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When you are as near as achievable to the recommended gauge, go ahead and begin knitting your garment, but don’t forget about gauge in general just yet. At times, the gauge of your actual garment may change dramatically from the gauge of your original swatch. After you’ve worked about five inches of your project, recheck your gauge by laying the piece down on a flat surface and pulling out your tape measure (or stitch gauge) again. Your knitting should be as near to the suggested gauge as it was before. In the event that it’s not, you’ll have to unravel what you’ve done and start again using a different needle size. As you rip out the rows and roll the yarn back into a ball,

remember it is better to do this now and have a usable garment in the long run. ALWAYS MAKE THE GAUGE SWATCH

Knitters sometimes mistakenly believe that creating the gauge swatch is an extra, unnecessary step that can be avoided altogether. This is not true. Always make the gauge swatch. Let’s say your knitting is one half stitch off of the suggested gauge—your whole garment can end up unwearable! There’s nothing quite as frustrating as working diligently on a project that doesn’t fit properly. Both swatches shown here have exactly the same number of stitches and rows, but the one on the left (1) was stitched with larger needles than the one on the right

(2). As you can see, the row gauge is as important to a good fit as the stitch gauge. Always knit a gauge swatch for every project, without exception. You can make the gauge swatch easier to work with by including selvage stitches on the edges of the square. Selvage stitches help the piece of fabric lay nice and flat, as well as making measuring easier, by giving you clear-cut edges between which to measure. To craft selvage stitches, work two rows of garter stitch (knit every row) at the top and bottom of the swatch and include two stitches in garter stitch at the beginning and end of each stockinette row.

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Decreasing Decreasing (or reducing the number of stitches in a row) is a method of creating shaping within a knitted piece. Two of the easiest and most common decreases are the knit two together (or k2tog) and purl two together (or p2tog) decreases.

K2TOG: Insert the right needle from front to back (knitwise) into the next two stitches on the left needle. Wrap the yarn around the right needle (as when knitting). Draw the yarn through both stitches on the left needle and pull it through, then drop the stitches from the needle. There is one new knit stitch on the right needle. You have decreased one stitch.

K2TOG TBL: Insert the right needle from behind the left needle and into the next two stitches on the left needle, as shown. Draw the yarn through both stitches on the left needle and pull it through, then drop the stitches from the needle. There is one new knit stitch on the right needle. You have decreased one stitch.

P2TOG: Insert the right needle into the front loops (purlwise) of the next two stitches on the left needle. Wrap the yarn around the right needle (as when purling) and pull it through. There is one new purl stitch on the right needle. You have decreased one stitch.

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Increasing Increasing also changes the number of stitches, and there are various ways to do it. The bar increase is one of the most common. BAR INCREASE (KFB)

1. To increase on the knit side, insert the right needle knitwise into the stitch to be increased. Wrap the yarn around the right needle and pull it through as if knitting, but leave the stitch on the left needle.

2. Insert the right needle into the back of the same stitch. Wrap the yarn around the needle and pull it through. Slip the stitch off the left needle. You now have two new stitches on the right needle and have increased one stitch. ■

Techniques to Know Here are a few commonly used techniques.

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WORKING INTO FRONT AND BACK LOOPS

The loop closest to you is the front of the stitch. This is the loop you’ll normally work into. To knit into the front loop, insert the right needle from left to right into the stitch on the left needle. To purl into the front loop, insert needle from right to left into the stitch.

To knit into the back loop (loop farthest from you), insert the right needle from right to left under the left needle and into the stitch. To purl into the back loop, insert the needle from behind into the stitch.

Knitting into the back loop

Purling into the back loop

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C HAP TER 5 â&#x20AC;¢ SIM PLE PATTERNS

5 Simple Patterns

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Index

Abbreviations, 31

Bar increase, 34 Basketweave, 46 Binding off knitwise, 24 purlwise, 25 three-needle bind-off, 26 Blocking, 54 Blocking pins, 14, 15 Bobbins, 14, 15 Bound-off edge, picking stitches up along, 57 Bucket Hat, 120–121 Buttonholes number needed, 60 one-row horizontal, 59 spacing, 60 two-row horizontal, 58 yarn-over, 60 Buttons, attaching, 60

Decreasing, 33 Dot-knot stitch, 48 Double-pointed needles, 13, 37 Double Seed Stitch Pullover, 104–105 Drop-Shoulder Pullover, 96–98

Embossed diamonds, 47 Ends, weaving in, 27 English knitting holding yarn, 17 knit stitch, 20 purl stitch, 22 See also Continental knitting Extra stitch at the end, 40 Eyelet Pullover, Cropped, 117– 119 Eyelet rows, 49

Fiber choices, 11 Finishing blocking, 54 buttonholes, 58–60 picking up stitches, 57 seaming, 55–57 Fixes for common mistakes,38–40 Flat knitting with circular needles, 36 Front and back loops, working in, 34

Garter & Cable Scarf, 106–107 Garter stitch about, 21 Garter & Cable Scarf, 106–107 vertical seam on, 56 Gauge, checking, 29–30 Gauge swatches, 30 Giant left cable, 52 Giant right cable, 51 Gradient Wrap, 122–123

Hat & Cowl Set, 86–87 Hats Bucket Hat, 120–121 Hat & Cowl Set, 86–87 Simple Scarf & Hat, 108–109 Paper Bag Hat, 68–69 Slouchy Hat, 112–113 Headband, 92–93 Holding yarn, 17 Horizontal buttonholes, 58–59

Horizontal dash stitch, 46 Horizontal seam on stockinette stitch, 56

Increasing bar increase, 34 kfb, 34

Joining yarn, 27

K2, p5 ribbing, 45 K2tog (knit two together), 33 K5, p2 ribbing, 44 Kfb, 34 Knit-on cast-on, 19 Knit stitch about, 20–21 binding off with, 24 loops, working, 34 picking up dropped, 38 in row below, 38 Knitting in the round, 36–37 Knitting or purling in row below, 35 Knitting totes, 14 Knit two together (k2tog), 33

Labels, yarn, 10 Lace chevron eyelets, 49 chevron lace edge, 50 eyelet rows, 49 Lace Cowl, 88–89 openwork leaf, 50 Long-tail cast-on, 18 Loops, working front and back, 34

Measuring tape, 14, 15 Mistakes, fixes for, 38–40 Mock cable, 51 Mohair Cardigan, 114–116

Neck, picking up the, 57 Needle cases, 14, 15 Needles about, 13 cable, 14, 51 circular, 13, 36 double-pointed, 13, 37 straight, 13 yarn, 14, 15 Notebooks, 14

One-row horizontal buttonholes, 59 Openwork leaf, 50 Organizing tools/accessories, 16

P2tog (purl 2 together), 33 Paper Bag Hat, 68–69 Patterns Bucket Hat, 120–121 Chunky Cardigan, 99–101 Cropped Eyelet Pullover, 117–119 Double-Seed-Stitch Pullover, 104–105 Drop-Shoulder Pullover, 96–98 Garter & Cable Scarf, 106–107 Gradient Wrap, 122–123 Hat & Cowl Set, 86–87 Lace Cowl, 88–89 Mohair Cardigan, 114–116 Paper Bag Hat, 68–69 Placket-Neckline Poncho, 124–126 Pompom Wrap, 70–71 Pull-Through Wrap, 110–111 Ribbed Cowl, 74–75 Scarf & Headband, 92–93 Short-Sleeve Pullover & Scarf, 94–95 Simple Cardigan, 82–85 Simple Hat & Scarf, 108–109 Simple Pullover, 102–103 Sleeveless Shell, 78–79 Slouchy Hat, 112–113 Striped Mesh Pullover, 76–77 Textured Wrap, 90–91 Turtleneck Poncho, 72–73 Turtleneck Tunic, 80–81 Wide Striped Cowl, 66–67 Peppercorn stitch, 47 Picking up stitches about, 57 bound-off edge, 57 knit stitch, 38 neck edge, 57 purl stitch, 39 side edge, 57 Pins, 14, 15 Placket-Neckline Poncho, 124–126 Point protectors, 14, 15 Pompom makers, 14, 15 Pompom Wrap, 70–71 Ponchos Placket-Neckline Poncho, 124–126 Turtleneck Poncho, 72–73 Pressing, 54

I NDE X

Cable needles, 14, 51 Cables Garter & Cable Scarf, 106–107 giant left cable, 52 giant right cable, 51 mock cable, 51 Cardigans Chunky Cardigan, 99–101 Mohair Cardigan, 114–116 Simple Cardigan, 82–85 Cases, needle, 14, 15 Casting on knit-on cast-on, 19 long-tail cast-on, 18 slipknot, 17 Chevron eyelets, 49 Chevron lace edge, 50 Chunky Cardigan, 99–101 Circular needles, 13, 36 Continental knitting holding yarn, 17 knit stitch, 21 purl stitch, 23 See also English knitting Cowls Hat & Cowl Set, 86–87 Lace Cowl, 88–89 Ribbed Cowl, 74–75 Wide Striped Cowl, 66–67 Crochet chain, 39 Crochet hooks, 14, 15 Cropped Eyelet Pullover, 117–119

127

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Pullovers Cropped Eyelet Pullover, 117–119 Double-Seed-Stitch Pullover, 104–105 Drop-Shoulder Pullover, 96–98 Short-Sleeve Pullover & Scarf, 94–95 Simple Pullover, 102–103 Striped Mesh Pullover, 76–77 Pull-Through Wrap, 110–111 Purl stitch about, 22–23 binding off with, 25 loops, working, 34 picking up dropped, 39 in row below, 38 Purl two together (p2tog), 33

Raised stitches dot-knot stitch, 48 peppercorn stitch, 47 trinity stitch, 48 Ribbed Cowl, 74–75 Ribbing, 42–45 Rulers, 14

I NDE X

Sand stitch, 46 Scarves Garter & Cable Scarf, 106–107 Simple Hat & Scarf, 108–109 Scarf & Headband, 92–93 Short-Sleeve Pullover & Scarf, 94–95 Schematics, 32 Scissors, 14, 15 Seams about, 55 beginning, 55 horizontal, on stockinette stitch, 56 vertical, on garter stitch, 56 vertical, on stockinette stitch, 55 vertical to horizontal, 57 Seed stitch about, 45 Double-Seed-Stitch Pullover, 104–105 Shell, Sleeveless, 78–79 Short-Sleeve Pullover & Scarf, 94–95 Side edge, picking stitches up along, 57 Simple Cardigan, 82–85 Simple Hat & Scarf, 108–109 Simple Pullover, 102–103

Sleeveless Shell, 78–79 Slipknot, 17 Slouchy Hat, 112–113 Steam blocking, 54 Stitches extra, 40 picking up, 38–39, 57, 60 raised, 47–48 See also specific stitches Stitch gauges, 14, 15, 29, 30 Stitch holders, 14, 15 Stitch markers, 14, 15 Stockinette stitch about, 23 horizontal seam on, 56 vertical seam on, 55 Straight needles, 13 Striped Mesh Pullover, 76–77 Substitutes, tools/accessory, 14 Sweaters Chunky Cardigan, 99–101 Cropped Eyelet Pullover, 117–119 Double-Seed-Stitch Pullover, 104–105 Drop-Shoulder Pullover, 96–98 Mohair Cardigan, 114–116 Short-Sleeve Pullover & Scarf, 94–95 Simple Cardigan, 82–85

Simple Pullover, 102–103 Striped Mesh Pullover, 76–77

Tape measures, 14, 15 Textured Wrap, 90–91 Textures, 45–47 Three-needle bind-off, 26 Tools and accessories A List, 14, 15 B List, 14, 15 organizing, 16 substitutes, 14 Totes, knitting, 14 T-pins, 14, 15 Trinity stitch, 48 Tunic, Turtleneck, 80–81 Turtleneck Poncho, 72–73 Turtleneck Tunic, 80–81 Twisted k1, p1 (full twist), 44 Twisted k1, p1 (half twist), 44 Two-row horizontal buttonholes, 58

Vertical seam on garter stitch, 56 on stockinette stitch, 55

Vertical to horizontal seam, 57

Weaving in ends, 27 Weights, yarn, 12 Wet blocking, 54 Wide Striped Cowl, 66–67 With yarn in front and back, 35 Wraps Gradient Wrap, 122–123 Pompom Wrap, 70–71 Pull-Through Wrap, 110–111 Textured Wrap, 90–91

Yarn about, 10–12 holding, 17 joining, 27 labels, 10 types, 11 weights, 12 Yarn in front and back, 35 Yarn needles, 14, 15 Yarn-over buttonholes, 60

YAR N R ESOU R CES Chapter 5 S I M PLE PR O J E C T S Page 66: Blue Sky Fibers, www.blueskyfibers.com Page 68: Tahki Yarns, www.tahkistacycharles.com Page 70: Brown Sheep Company, www.brownsheep.com Page 72: Valley Yarns, www.yarn.com Page 74: Misti Alpaca, www.mistialpaca.com Page 76: Knit One Crochet Too, www.knitonecrochettoo.com Page 78: Stacy Charles Fine Yarns, www.yarn.com; www.tahkistacycharles.com Page 80: Cascade Yarns, www.cascadeyarns.com Page 82: Lion Brand Yarn Company, www.lionbrand.com

Page 86: Blue Sky Fibers, www.blueskyfibers.com Page 88: Bergere de France, www.bergeredefrance.com Page 90: Cleckheaton, www.ausyarnco.com.au Page 92: Valley Yarns, www.yarn.com Page 94: Tahki Yarns, www.tahkistacycharles.com Page 96: Cascade Yarns, www.cascadeyarns.com Page 99: Plymouth Yarn Company, www.plymouthyarn.com Page 102: Plymouth Yarn Company, www.plymouthyarn.com Page 104: HiKoo/Skacel Collection, www.skacelknitting.com Page 106: Jade Sapphire Exotic Fibres, www.jadesapphire.com

Page 108: Rowan, www.knitrowan.com Page 110: Brown Sheep Company, www.brownsheep.com Page 112: Valley Yarns, www.yarn.com Page 114: Be Sweet, www.HumbleAcresYarn.com Page 117: Ancient Arts Yarn, www.ancientartsfibre.com Page 120: Blue Sky Fibers, www.blueskyfibers.com Page 122: HiKoo/Skacel Collection, www.skacelknitting.com Page 124: Sugar Bush Yarns, www.sugarbushyarns.com

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Knitting The LEARN-TO-KNIT BOOK

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