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#11
Plan your perfect day
On the Settlement of Iceland
SKE plans your perfect day in Reykjavík: peak inside for further details.
A brief, ironic discourse on the settlement of Iceland, and the spirit of dumb nationalism.
Ske.is 31.07 2015 - 06.08 2015
Your free copy Your guide to what’s going on in iceland
“I get the same feeling from reggae that I got from Hip-Hop when I was a teenager; it inspires this kind of rebelliousness.” – Gnúsi Yones (AmabAdamA)
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A “Perfect” Day – Pt. 11 (An Active and Green Day) There is no such thing as perfect. A thing cannot be perfect. But when a thing is sufficiently wonderful we may refer to it as perfect for the sake of emphasis – such a thing is customary. A few days ago, I experienced a day that was wonderful enough to predispose me towards exaggeration, and I am confident that if any traveler were to follow in my footsteps, then they too would feel the same. It was, in all honesty, a perfect day.
Gló – The Bowl – 10:00 Sometimes a man must veer from his usual dietary route and drive along a healthful side street. He must come to a fork in the road it, take it and jab it into a vegetable. He must do this in order to survive – for no man can subsist entirely on pizza and chicken wings (take stock in these words, for their author has tried).Conscious of this idea, I began my day at Gló (Fákafen) – Iceland’s most popular healthful restaurant. While bicycling in the direction of Gló, and surveying the neighborhood, I made an observation: a fine one. I observed that Gló is surrounded by such cardiac-clogging joints as Metro (the Icelandic McDonald’s), KFC, Domino’s and Hlöllabátar, that it is in fact a kind of oasis in a dry desert of deleterious food. I parked my bicycle outside the oasis and walked inside. I was greeted by the persistently friendly Solla (the owner of Gló and celebrated raw chef) and ordered “the bowl” (skálin, wherein customers are given a bowl and asked to decorate the insides of said bowl with various salubrious ingredients). The bowl facilitated the flow of my blood and made me feel good about myself.
My Own Religion Cleanliness is next to godliness, and to the godless – next to nothingness. I do not believe in God. I have never attended church without having been obligated to do so. Every time that I have stepped foot in a church it has been at the compulsion of society or tradition. I have been compelled to attend church by weddings, baptisms and confirmations – but never by faith itself. Lately, however, I have begun to feel that I am missing out. I have begun to feel envious of the faithful. The lives of the faithful are filled with sacred rituals and venerable traditions. They are always silently conversing with their Gods, or citing the Sabbath as an excuse for their idleness. Whereas there is nothing in my life that is sacred – not really. There is no grand, doctrinal architecture behind my laziness or my nonsene. In the eyes of the faithful, my life is empty, vain and ridiculous. In order to redress this perceived deficiency, I have begun to author my own religion. I have yet to find a suitable name for my religion, one sufficiently dignified to warrant the designation – but I have begun to work on some of its laws, rituals and holy paraphernalia. Here is a rough draft of my religion’s first five sacred truths: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
Being is a life-long vacation from non-existence (i.e. you’re alive – that’s all that matters). Don’t ever be charitable with your fucks, but rather dispense of them sparingly (i.e. don’t concern yourself with the opinions others). Self-deprecation is the highest form of wisdom (i.e. do not take yourself too seriously). Practice the Pentatonic Scale of Happiness (more on that later). A week without pizza / is a southern Baptist church without a preacher (pronounced prea-cha) /
It is an incomplete list of commandments, but it is a start. I suppose that if there is any point to this my own religion nonsense, it is this: live your own life; make your own rules; do things your own way. Leaf through the pages of our humble magazine and find yourself something that you would like to do – regardless of what other people may think.
Ske Editors: ritstjorn@ske.is Advertisement: auglysingar@ske.is Interview & Editorial: Ragnar Tómas Hallgrímsson Interviewee: Magnús Jónsson Photographs: Allan Sigurðsson Photographs from ATP: Brynjar Snær Photographs from Algera: Joseph Hall Printing: Ísafoldarprentsmiðja Design & Layout: Hlynur Ingólfsson, Lifandi verkefni ehf.
Skemmtigarðurinn – Football Golf – 11:30 Skemmtigarðurinn is an activity park located in the Grafarvogur neighborhood of Reykjavík (about a 10 to 15 minute drive from the city center). In that particular park, a man can amuse himself shooting lasers (laser tag), shooting paintballs (paintball), playing minigolf or football golf, if he prefers. I am neither an outstanding footballer nor a competent golfer, but I was curious to learn whether in terms of football golf – two negatives equal a positive. And so I organized a rendezvous at Skemmtigarðurinn with six of my friends. We divided ourselves into teams of two and played according to the rules of Texas Scramble. I quickly discovered that I was no Tiger Beckham. My graceless kicks were neither long nor accurate, and I found myself, on several occasions, blaspheming in the rough, trying to discern the flag through an obstructing congregation of trees. Needless to say, I will not be making a career of the sport. But it was a pleasant way of spending two hours.
Egilshöll – Bowling – 13:30 To continue our day of diversion, our troop headed over to Egilshöll for a round of bowling. Egilshöll, like Skemmtigarðurinn, is also situated in the Grafarvogur neighorhood of Reykjavík, and there a man can amuse himself at the movie theater, at the ice-skating rink, at the tennis courts or at the bowling alley. There is not much to say about a bowling alley that has not been said before. All bowling alleys are essentially the same. They consist of bowling lanes, bowling balls, bowling pins, seats, music and a bar. Egilshöll does not distinguish itself from the traditional bowling alley in any significant way. It keeps to the customary furniture and decor. The bowling ritual is, likewise, always the same. One pays admission, slips into the unholy bowling moccasins, finds a suitable bowling ball and does a joyous caper every time that one bowls an unlikely strike; I did not do much dancing.
Klifurhúsið – A Falling Corpse – 15:00 Klifurhúsið is an indoor bouldering gym located in Ármúli 23 in Reykjavík. The cost of admission (single pass) is only 1,100 ISK. 1,100 ISK is nothing; a mechanic recently charged me 30,000 ISK for allowing him to plug my BMW into a diagnostic machine while he sat idly by and translated. Anyhow, I purchased admission and was supplied with a fine pair of climbing shoes (climbing shoes are a minor improvement upon bowling shoes). I stepped onto the soft mattress and began inspecting the climbing routes. Being a man of tenuous and dainty fingers, I chose the routes marked with black, meaning beginner. I soon discovered that I was not made for climbing. Any grip that wasn’t large enough to accommodate my entire splayed palm proved inadequate. Every time I overreached, I came crashing down onto the mattress like a falling corpse. It was delightful.
Fresco – Steakhouse Salad – 17:00 Fresco is a salad bar located on Suðurlandsbraut 4 (right by Laugardalur). To complete my day of healthfulness and vigor, I decided to visit Fresco and partake in another bowl of fine greenery. I entered the establishment and followed the painted white footprints to the counter. My eyes honed in, immediately, on the Steakhouse Salad (for I am mainly a carnivore), which consists of cherry tomatoes, sweet potatoes, broccoli, red onions, Parmesan, nachos, romaine salad and beef. The server suggested that I try the jalapeno pesto dressing and I assented. I received a generous portion of salad that left me sated and satisfied. As it turns out, I have no talent for football golf, bowling or indoor bouldering – but I am relatively competent when it comes to devouring large bowls of fruits and vegetables. It was a perfect day.
3 What’s happening
A VIBRANT URBAN MARKET HEALTHY LIVING IN THE HEART OF REYKJAVÍK A visit to LIFANDI Markaður organic grocery is a truly sensory experience. The shop´s inviting atmosphere is enhanced by warm textured wood, the scent of exotic spices and the gentle icker of candles in the rastaurant. Judging by the rush at lunchtime, LIFANDI Markaður is very popular with locals seeking fresh and wholesome fare, served with a smile.
EAT LIKE A LOCAL Shopping in LIFANDI Markaður will invariably make you hungry, so it´s a good thing that the grocery portion of the store is partnered with a casually chic restaurant which prides itself on using the highest quality raw ingredients available. The reasonably - priced menu changes daily, and chefs are encouraged to improvise so that each dish incorporates the freshest foods on hand that day. Every menu includes an enticing vegan or vegetarian option as well as meat or sh dishes, and ingredients are listed so that anyone with allergies or intolerances can enjoy their meal without worry. For folks on the run , LIFANDI Markaður provides delicious sandwiches, wraps, and energy bars, as well as hot takeout meals, all ready in biodegradable or compostable packaging. Even the takeout utensils and smoothie cups are made of corn plastic, so eating on the go can be fast, avourful, and environmentally friendly
NEWLY OPENED BREAKFAST BAR On weekdays from 7:15 to 10:00 am, LIFANDI Markaður offers several scrumptious breakfast options including greek yogurt with fruit, chia pudding, and scrambled or poached eggs along with grilled tomatoes, halloumi cheese and fresh sourdough bred, baked inhouse daily. An organic oatmeal buffet is also on hand, with all sorts of tasty toppings. A power breakfast wouldn´t be complete without LIFANDI Markaður´s own Green Thunder smoothie, packed with mango, spinach and an energising burst of ginger. Open until 8:00 pm during the week, LIFANDI Markaður´s wonderful staff promise their clientele exciting and nutririous choices for breakfast, lunch and dinner. choi
THE TRAVELLER´S ONE STOP SHOP Centrally located in Reykjavík at Borgartún 24 and walking distance from downtown, LIFANDI Markaður provides tourists and locals alike with one of the widest varierties of certiLI -ed organic and ethically sourced products in Iceland. Whether stocking up on supplies for your holiday apartment or grabbing food to take on the road, travellers can be sure to nd an impressive range of the highest quality natural products - everything from fresh produce and baked goods to cosmetics, baby food and bulk organic nuts and dried fruit. Foodies will appreciate the many locally produced Icelandic specialties which include organic lamb, birch and angelica teas, lupin-infused juices, sea salts and creamy cheeses. Visitors to Reykjavík will discover that maintaining a healthy lifestyle away from home is easy at LIFANDI Markaður - the “ living market” for people who really like to live well. - MJA
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Dúndurfréttir Dúndurfréttir will be performing at Græni Hatturinn on Friday, July 31st. Dúndurfréttir will be performing songs by such classic rock dinosaurs as Deep Purple, Led Zeppelin, Pink Floyd, Uriah Heep, Kansas and Boston.
Innipúkinn 2015 Innipúkinn is an annual music festival held in downtown Reykjavík over Iceland’s bank holiday weekend. The festival takes place from Friday, July 31st, through Sunday, August 2nd, at two neighboring music venues: Húrra and Gaukurinn. This year, Innipúkinn will be celebrating its 14th anniversary. The festival has a reputation of featuring both emerging and established acts from Iceland’s music scene. Past guests include Of Monsters and Men, Mugison, Lay Low, Hjálmar, Hjaltalín, FM Belfast,
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Sóley Sin Fang Mammút Retro Stefson Gísli Pálmi AmabAdamaA & Jakob Frímann Magnússon Maus Dikta Úlfur Úlfur Steed Lord Samúel Jón Samúelsson Big Band Sudden Weather Change
The event was originally intended as a form of diversion for those Icelanders who are not really excited about the prospect of big outdoor festivals (the bank holiday weekend being one of the largest travel weekends in Iceland). The name Innipúkinn, which literally means “the indoor demon”, pokes fun at this indoorsy type of person.
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Tilbury Sturla Atlas Ylja Muck Vök Babies Teitur Magnússon Benny Crespo’s Gang Introbeats M-Band Vaginaboys FM Belfast (DJ set)
Where: Gaukurinn and Húrra (Naustin) When: Friday, July 31st–Sunday, August 2nd Price: 6,900 ISK www.innipukinn.is
(Northern Punk 2015) The annual punk-rock reunion Norðanpaunk will be held in Laugarbakki this weekend. Over 40 bands will be performing at the festival, including Krupskaya (UK), Kuml, Misþyrming, Kælan mikla, Auðn, Brekka, World Narcosis, Thrashing Pumpguns (DE), Saktmóðigur, Katz, Pink Street Boys, Godchilla and Klikk. Where: Laugarbakki, Vestur-Húnavatnssýsla When: Friday, July 31st – Sunday, August 2nd Price: 4,000 (pre-sale only)
Ólafur Arnalds, Ólöf Arnalds, Botnleðja (Silt), Mínus, Trabant, Megas, Magga Stína and others.
All in all some 24 live acts and DJs will be performing at the festival: • • • • • •
Where: Græni Hatturinn (Akureyri) When: Friday, July 31st, 22:00 Price: 3,500 ISK www.midi.is
Norðanpaunk 2015
Olga
Vocal Ensemble Next Saturday, August 1st, the Olga Vocal Ensemble will be performing at Flateyjarkirkjan (the church in Flatey). Olga is a young a cappella group that approaches old traditions in a fresh way. Olga combines enthusiasm, humor and drama with genuine vocal clarity to enrapture both young and old. The group’s repertoire spans more than five centuries of musical joy, in which moving classical music comes together with popular repertoire – from Medieval Icelandic drinking songs to nostalgic hits from your grandpa’s day. The characteristic sound of Olga blends all music into a compelling whole. Olga was founded in 2012 at the Utrecht Conservatory in the Netherlands. (olgavocalensemble.com)
Playing a concert at Græni Hatturinn always puts Ljótu Hálfvitarnir in a festive mood. And when the concert happens to coincide with Iceland’s bank holiday weekend – that festive mood borders dangerously on mania. But Ljótu Hálfvitarnir are not worried. They intend on playing music at Græni Hatturinn this Saturday, August 1st at 23:00, and they are uncertain when the concert will end. For those people who are used to Ljótu Hálfvitarnir playing two or three successive concerts at Græni Hatturinn, please note that this will be a single concert – perhaps a singular concert as well.
Where: Flateyjarkirkja (Flatey) When: Saturday, August 1st, 18:00 Price: 2,500 ISK www.midi.is
Where: Græni Hatturinn (Akureyri) When: Saturday, August 1st, 23:00 Price: 3,500 ISK www.midi.is
Ljótu Hálfvitarnir
Bank Holiday Weekend at Flúðir Sonus Events presents, in collaboration with Coca Cola and Víking, the biggest bank holiday festival in south Iceland. Program: Friday, July 31st 20:30 – Pub quiz at the community center 23:00 – Country ball at the community center featuring Á Móti Sól (18 and over) Saturday, August 1st 14:00 – Strange boat competition 20:30 – The one and only Laddi performs at the community center 23:00 – Country ball with Stuðlabandið (18 and over)
Sunday, August 2nd 13:00 – The troupe Lotta performs at Lystigarðurinn 20:30 – Grétar Örvarsson leads a sing-along at Torfdalurinn 23:30 – Country ball with Sniglabandið at the community center (18 and over)
Jan Kadereit & Mikael Máni This Friday, July 31st, the German drummer Jan Kadereit and the Icelandic guitarist Mikael Máni will perform at Mengi. Jan and Mikael met last year in Amsterdam, and since then they have collaborated on a number of projects. Recently, they decided to form a duo. The evening’s program consists of original material, jazz standards
along with other tunes arranged for guitar and drums. Where: Mengi (Óðinsgata 2) When: Friday, July 31st, 21:00 Price: 2,000 ISK www.mengi.net
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WHY
ERVE DO WE S BURGERS, ASS HAM N WINGS L C T S R I F CHICKE S U O I C I DEL R RIBS? & KILLE
SIMPLY,
TER T E B S ´ T I BECAUSE
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Hallvarður Ásgeirsson & Jóhann Gunnarsson Hallvarður Ásgeirsson and Jóhann Gunnarsson began collaborating in 1999 under the name Fortral along with Finnur Hákonarson. After a few years’ hiatus, their collaboration continues.
Síldarævintýrið á Siglufirði (The Great Herring Adventure Family Festival)
Just like last year, no expense has been spared in booking the finest musicians for this year’s Great Herring Adventure (Síldarævintýrið). The festival’s name is inspired by the fact that herring was the first fish that Icelanders caught and exported. Performers: Hreimur and Made in Sveitin Svavar Knútur No More Drama Ylja Vio Lily of the Valley Matti Matt and Vitleysingarnir Ljótu Hálfvitarnir Hjalti & Lára Where: Siglufjörður (northern coast of Iceland) When: Friday, July 31st – Sunday, August 2nd Price: Varies depending on events
Neistaflug 2015
Hallvarður and Jóhann’s music can be described as an improvised ambient soundscape influenced by jazz and electronic music. Jóhann has recently released the album Genematrix Perimeterstroke. Hallvarður has
recently written music to the dance pieces Scape of Grace, Predator and Blýkufl (Leadcloak) by Saga Sigurðardóttir, and the movie The Disadvantages of Time Travel by Richard Ramchurn, which was recently premiered in Manchester. Where: Mengi (Óðinsgata 2) When: Saturday, August 1st, 21:00 Price: 2,000 ISK www.mengi.net
This bank holiday weekend, Nesskaupstaður will be inundated with joy and music, just like so many other towns in Iceland. The Neistaflug festival will feature such artists as Valdimar, Tónatitringur, Todmobile, Vintage Caravan, Oni and Í svörtum fötum. Where: Neskaupstaður (east Iceland) When: Friday, July 31st – Sunday, August 2nd Price: 3,000 – 10,000 ISK
Maus The band Maus returns to Akureyri for the first time in 12 years. A Maus concert is a rare event these days, given that the members of the band are scattered far and wide, here and there. Every concert that Maus has played in Akureyri has been special. Maus is an Icelandic rock band formed in 1993. The band was active from 1994 to 2004 and during that time it released five studio albums. Where: Græni Hatturinn (Akureyri) When: Sunday August 2nd, 23:00 Price: 3,000 ISK www.midi.is
Jam Sessions at Gaukurinn The music scene in Iceland is currently experiencing a proliferation of artists: extremely talented people who are pouring themselves out in a deep need for expression and for making an impact on society and culture – both here at home and abroad.
Wiktoria and Smutty Smiff are hosts at Radio Iceland who are focused on digging up the underground bands and artists, bringing them up to the surface so that they don’t disappear into the black hole of corporate, overproduced music for the masses.
Some of the artists are already very well-known and appreciated, while others are just starting in the music industry, and still others have never had the opportunity of showcasing their talent anywhere, but are still very determined. Some do not even know they have a talent. Most of them never had the chance to meet or talk – whether verbally or through music. But this is about to change.
The first Jam Session took place on Thursday, June 25th, at Gaukurinn and will be a regular thing every other week. The opening band was Benjamin Jazz Quartet, which will be the default Jam Band. After their performance anybody is welcome to jump on stage and perform. Anybody who would like to join in and jam, straight from the heart, will be highly appreciated.
Wiktoria Joanna Ginter, host and promoter of Radio Iceland, is starting a new project for music maniacs in Iceland: Jam Sessions, to be held at one of the oldest and best equipped music venues in the downtown area – Gaukurinn. New PA allows for the recording of up to eighteen tracks simultaneously!
The venue provides the basic back line: drum kit, amps and vocal microphones. Guests are also welcome to bring their instruments. Also: sharing is caring. Where: Gaukurinn When: Thursday, August 6th, 21:00 www.gaukurinn.is
Þjóðhátíð 2015 (National Festival in Vestmannaeyjar) Þjóðhátíð, held every year in Vestmannaeyjar (Westman Islands), is one of the biggest outdoors festivals in Iceland. This year’s musical lineup features some of the biggest names in Icelandic music: Páll Óskar (Paul Oscar), Sálin hans Jóns míns, Júníus Meyvant, Amaba Dama, FM Belfast, Maus, Sóldögg, Land & synir and FM95BLÖ. Where: Vestmannaeyjar (Westman Islands) When: Friday, July 31st – Sunday, August 2nd Price: 22,900 ISK for a festival pass (13,900 for a single-day pass) www.dalurinn.is
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Mýrarboltinn (Swamp Soccer Festival)
Útihátíð Spot (Spot Outdoors Festival) For the sixth consecutive year, Greifarnir and Siggi Hlö will be hosting an outdoors festival at Spot in Kópavogur during the bank holiday weekend. Just like last year, the Party Director Ásgeir Páll will be keeping the party moving on Friday (he was a real hit last year). Greifarnir and Siggi Hlö will be at full throttle on Saturday and Sunday. On Sunday evening at 23:00, Bjössi and co. from Greifarnir will lead a hillside sing-a-long, which has, over the years, become increasingly popular. The past five outdoors festivals at Spot have been a success and the organizers hope to make this year’s festival even better. Where: Spot (Bæjarlind 6, Kópavogur) When: Friday, July 31st – Sunday, August 2nd
Mýrarboltinn is an annual outdoors festival held in Ísafjörður in the Icelandic west fjords. Every year, hundreds of Icelanders journey to Ísafjörður for a weekend of swamp soccer, music and mead (alcohol). This year’s musical program will feature many well-known artists from the Icelandic music scene. Friday: Blaz Roca at the Torfnes Gymnasium Saturday: Skítamórall at the Torfnes Gymnasium Sunday: Retro Stefson, Rhythmatic and Húsið á Sléttunni at the Torfnes Gymnasium. Where: Ísafjörður (West Fjords) When: Friday, July 31st – Sunday, August 2nd Price: 6,000 ISK (Music Pass)
Bank Holiday Weekend @ Dillon Dillon will be celebrating the bank holiday weekend in style. Friday, July 31st Saturday, August 1st Dikta The Roulette Captain Syrup Price: 500 ISK Price: Free
Where: Dillon (Laugavegur 30) When: Friday, July 31st – Sunday, August 2nd Price: Free (Friday) / 500 ISK (Saturday and Sunday)
Ef þú hleypur 10 kílómetra notarðu jafnmikla orku og þarf til að hafa kveikt á einum ljósastaur í átta klukkustundir Gagnvirkar orkusýningar Landsvirkjunar í Búrfelli og Kröflu varpa ljósi á orkuna sem býr í öllum hlutum. Landsvirkjun vinnur rafmagn úr endurnýjanlegum orkugjöfum; vatnsafli, jarðvarma og vindi. Líttu við í sumar.
Opið 10-17 alla daga til 30. ágúst. Leiðarlýsingar á landsvirkjun.is/heimsoknir
Sunday, August 2nd The Vintage Caravan Price: 500 ISK
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Sometimes as a reporter one is afforded the opportunity of meeting new people – not new in the sense of infants and newborns, but new in the sense of people whom one was not previously acquainted with. Other times, however, the post occasions the re-acquaintance of old friends – not old in the sense of the elderly or the senile, but old in the sense of having known each other for over a decade. Gnúsi and I are old friends. We have known each other for over a decade, which, when one is 29 years old, feels like a long time (we were introduced to each other by a gregarious extrovert called Hip-Hop). Gnúsi Yones is known not only as a founding member of the legendary oldschool group Subterranean – and one half of the former rap duo Antlew & Maximum – but as the architect of the popular Icelandic reggae band Amaba Dama as well. Last year, Amaba Dama danced into the national spotlight with their popular single Hossa Hossa, and this weekend Amaba Dama is scheduled to perform at no less than five concerts in three days. I park my car outside Gnúsi’s studio in Seltjarnarnes (History Sounds). I am 30 minutes early. I knock on the studio door but there is no answer. My bladder suggests that I walk to the Eiðistorg shopping square so as to relieve myself. I begin walking. About 20 minutes later, I return and ring the doorbell to Gnúsi’s apartment (just behind the studio). But he does not answer. I sit in my car and watch a gang of topless male construction workers loiter about on some scaffolding. I think back on my time as construction worker and how I am glad that I have chosen a life of literature; I was such an angry mason. My phone rings. Gnúsi apologizes for being late, but I explain that he is not late: I am early. A few minutes later we are sitting in his snug studio conversing about the upcoming bank holiday weekend. Ragnar Tómas: Amaba Dama will be quite busy this bank holiday weekend. You’ll be playing five gigs. Gnúsi Yones: Five gigs. Innipúkinn (a concert series on Reykjavík for those who intend on staying put during the weekend) on Friday, where we will be performing alongside of Jakob Frímann (a famous Icelandic popmusician, and member of Stuðmenn). We will be doing our own versions of his songs. And Jakob will in turn be playing some of our songs as well. We perform with him on Friday at Innipúkinn, and then at the Reykjavík Park and Zoo (Fjölskyldu- og Húsdýragarðurinn) on Sunday. On Saturday, we will be performing at Þjóðhátíð in Vestmannaeyjar. Then we have two gigs in Akureyri on Sunday. Ragnar Tómas: That’s quite the schedule. Are you nervous about Þjóðhátíð? Prior to the interview, Gnúsi and I discussed a rumor about a certain musician (who shall remain anonymous) during Þjóðhátíð. According to the rumor, said musician decided to add an unreleased, and therefore unfamiliar, song to his set; the audience left the valley en masse. Gnúsi Yones: Well, yes. We have to live up to people’s expectations. But it’s funny, I don’t know if I should be telling you this, but I’ve always been prejudiced against this festival. I’ve never been before. It’s funny to think that for my first visit to the festival I’ll be stepping directly onto the stage. Ragnar Tómas: During my first (and only) visit to the festival, I shed a few tears during the bonfire. I got all emotional. I couldn’t help myself. It’s embarrassing. Still to this day, my friends make fun of me. But it was an experience.
Gnúsi Yones: Yeah, it’ll probably be fun. Ragnar Tómas: Amaba Dama was founded in 2011, correct? Gnúsi Yones: Yes. Ragnar Tómas: And originally it was just the three of you: You, Steinunn (Gnúsi’s girlfriend) and Kolfinna (a member of the Reykjavíkurdætur rap collective)?
Gnúsi Yones: : I wish we were staying longer. We are scheduled to be arriving at around 5 o’clock in the afternoon and we will perform at around 11 that evening. And then we leave immediately afterwards. So I won’t be getting the full experience. But hopefully I’ll get the opportunity to check out some of the famous white tents (tents set up by the locals and which feature a variety of strange food and odd diversions).
Ragnar Tómas: And there’s this very hazardous, steep hill that leads down to Rauðisandur ... Gnúsi Yones: Right. It was pretty scary. It was even weirder showing up to the festival a year later and experiencing exactly the same madness. One of the women who was organizing the festival (they laid the festival to rest following those two horrendous summers) she just posted a photo from Rauðisandur earlier this month, where she’s reclining on the white beach sunbathing. So if they had held the festival this year it would have been fantastic. Ragnar Tómas: Well, maybe not. But what happened to Kolfinna. Why did she leave the band? Gnúsi Yones: She left the band in 2014. There was no drama or nothing like that. It was just her decision to start focusing on other things. Ragnar Tómas: There are a lot of great reggae bands in Iceland: Hjálmar, Ojba Rasta, Amaba Dama, etc. Do you have any insight into why there is such a strong reggae movement in Iceland?
“Amaba Dama came into being when we were booked to perform at the Rauðisandur Festival. We were going to get Ojba Rasta to perform with us, but they had been booked for another concert, and so we were forced to put together a new band in 10 days – which we did.” – Gnúsi Yones on the origins of Amaba Dama
Gnúsi Yones: Yes. Originally we weren’t a live band, that is to say, we performed with our music on playback. Then, we did two or three gigs in which the band Ojba Rasta performed the music. But, actually, the band came into being when we were booked to perform at the Rauðisandur Music Festival. We were going to get Ojba Rasta to perform with us, but they had been booked for another concert, and so we were forced to put together a new band in 10 days – which we did. We assembled a band and showed up to Rauðisandur, this was in 2013, I believe. During the first week of July. The weather was absolutely crazy. They had to postpone the festival until the next year. And then the following year – the weather was even worse.
“I don’t know if I should be telling you this, but I’ve always been prejudiced against this festival. I’ve never been before. It’s funny to think that for my first visit to the festival I’ll be stepping directly onto the stage.” – Gnúsi Yones
Gnúsi Yones: The rescue team was there. People were screaming and tents were flying.
Ragnar Tómas: I remember that. Gnúsi Yones: And so Amaba Dama was founded, in a way, for that festival.
Gnúsi Yones: Hjálmar are the Grandmaster Flash of the Icelandic reggae scene. But it took a long time. Ojba Rasta was founded in 2010 or something, after Hjálmar had been on the scene for like 10 years or something, having monopolized the scene during that time. I’m not sure. There’s something about reggae that is so truthful – especially for me, having been making HipHop for so long. I get the same feeling from reggae that I got from Hip-Hop when I was a teenager; it inspires this kind of rebelliousness. And also it’s a real family-oriented kind of music, in some way. It appeals to a wide audience, which is fun.
Ragnar Tómas: And reggae really suits your personality. Your whole family radiates this positive, peaceful vibe. Every member of Gnúsi’s family is real chill. Gnúsi Yones: Yes. My parents listened to a lot of reggae when I was younger. In retrospect, reggae has always been a part of my life. Even when I was making HipHop, my production was always influenced by reggae. Even though I wasn’t conscious of it during the time.
Ragnar Tómas: So, you actually showed up to Rauðisandur?
Ragnar Tómas: Your style has evolved greatly over the years. You were 17 when Subterrenean’s album Central Magnetizm was released. Could you describe this evolution in your own words?
Gnúsi Yones: : Yes, we even took Jón Bragi (Gnúsi’s son) with us. He was three-months old at the time. And Steinunn’s father came along as well. We took a collapsible camper with us, which was destroyed. Jón Bragi sat in the car like …
Gnúsi Yones: First and foremost, I think that I have learned so much. I have learned so much and listened to so much music. And in terms of Hip-Hop music, I’m so incredibly grateful to Hip-Hop, mainly because it introduced me to so many different kinds of music. Ragnar Tómas: Through sampling?
Gnúsi imitates a frightened infant, quite masterfully. Ragnar Tómas: I don’t think there is any sense in being there after 2 or 3 o’clock in the morning. By that time, most people have lost their minds (Icelanders are notorious drunks). I think that you’ll be afforded a nice, brief window into the festival. Interview: Ragnar Tómas Hallgrímsson Photographs: Allan Sigurðsson
Gnúsi Yones: It was his first camping trip. I laugh.
Gnúsi Yones: Right. You begin digging through crates of vinyl searching for samples, and then one day you’re listening to the vinyl, without sampling. So Hip-Hop has taken me all over the place, which is incredibly rewarding. I hope that this tradition continues. I’m not
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“Hjálmar are the Grandmaster Flash of the Icelandic reggae scene.” – Gnúsi Yones
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entirely sure, but I think that this tradition of sampling has sort of faded over the years. This culture of sampling is such a rich phenomenon. It helps you discover your own style. As a producer, especially, I think. Ragnar Tómas: : It’s interesting, if you consider yourself, Pan and Addi Intro, you all began in a very similar place (producing Hip-Hop). Then you go into making reggae; Pan goes into electronic and ambient music; and Intro goes into House music. Hip-Hop is a branch, belonging to this great tree of music.
Ragnar Tómas: : It’s very difficult to live as an artist in Iceland. How do you make ends meet? Gnúsi Yones: For the past few months, I’ve been able to make a living performing. But I also do a lot of work here, in the studio.
“The rescue team was there. People were screaming and tents were flying.” – Gnúsi Yones on the Rauðisandur Festival
Gnúsi Yones: : Absolutely. And reggae is such a diverse genre of music. Many people, when they hear the word reggae they think “Bob Marley”, but it’s so much more than that. There are so many styles of reggae. Modern dance music borrows heavily from reggae, and Hip-Hop as well. And the idea behind reggae is basically drum and bass. Drum and bass comes from reggae. So it’s all related. And then one tries to bring this reggae music into modernity.
Ragnar Tómas: You and Steinunn are together. What’s it like being in a band with your girlfriend. Gnúsi laughs. Gnúsi Yones: Uhhhmmm, it’s wonderful. Sometimes it’s hard, but mainly because we have a child together and so we require a lot of babysitting, which can be difficult. Like this weekend, for example: we need to practice a lot and we’re going to be playing a lot as well, and so we need to find someone to babysit. But otherwise it’s wonderful. Interacting with groupies is difficult ‘though. Both of us laugh.
Gnúsi Yones: I’m joking. We work well together. For the last album we collaborated on many of the lyrics. It’s good.
Ragnar Tómas: Yes, people tend to forget that music is, often times, 50% self-promotion. Gnúsi Yones: Exactly.
Gnúsi Yones: Yes, and mixing and mastering. Ragnar Tómas: Right. You mastered our debut album (Original Melody Fantastic Four) Gnúsi Yones: That’s right. And so one tries to find as much work as possible. I’m also making beats every now and then. Sometimes I
sell beats. Ragnar Tómas: Have you sold any beats to foreign artists?
Ragnar Tómas: You can be working hard in the studio, making great music all day, but if you aren’t promoting it ... Gnúsi Yones: Yes, and Steinunn has played a big part in that. She’s more driven, in that sense, than me. And now we’ve got an agent who does all that for us. Ragnar Tómas: And that’s Sindri, from Mid Atlantic: who was Kaleo’s agent, right? Gnúsi Yones: Right. Ragnar Tómas: And so are you setting your sights on foreign countries? Foreign festivals?
Gnúsi Yones: Not many. It doesn’t pay the bills or anything. Ragnar Tómas: But it must be a kind of dream to be making a living making a music. Gnúsi Yones: Yes, of course. It’s wonderful, especially now when everything is going well. There’s less stress. Ragnar Tómas: What are you most proud of in your career. You’ve done so much: Subterranean, Earmax, Antlew & Maximum, Amaba Dama, etc. What stands out?
Gnúsi Yones: One really has to wink at them very slyly. We laugh. There is an obvious tone of sarcasm in Gnúsi’s response.
Ragnar Tómas: Recording for other artists?
Gnúsi Yones: I have way too many unreleased songs, just sitting in my computer. At times, it saddens me. But with Amaba Dama I decided to just push through; to strike while the iron is hot; and all that. And I’ve been pretty successful. It’s become my profession. And I’m proud of that. It’s a kind of personal victory, in some way.
“There’s this same feeling that I get from reggae as I got from Hip-Hop when I was a teenager. It’s this kind of rebellious feeling.” – Gnúsi Yones
Gnúsi Yones: I think I would have to say Amaba Dama. Probably because my greatest weakness through the years has been laziness, in the sense of promoting and releasing my material. As you know. I laugh.
Gnúsi Yones: That would be really fun. But it’s not something that, well ... yes. That would be great. We laugh. Gnúsi Yones: Just to try it. I’m more of a studio person, actually, than a live-performance kind of person. My passion is for creating music. But I love performing music as well, but we will have to see. Amaba Dama is such a big machine. But, of course, I would love to play abroad.
Ragnar Tómas: I think for your next video you should bring back “the party ostrich” (the nickname of a jolly friend of ours, who does a kind of stop-motion dance in Gnúsi Yones’ video Fullkomna Ruglkona). That was wonderful.
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“People were walking into clubs with USB drives and asking the DJ to play it.” – Gnúsi Yones on the hidden success of his single Fullkomna Ruglkona
Gnúsi Yones: Fullkomna Ruglkona was also a kind of proud moment in my career, in some sense. Because it took on a life of its own. I let a friend of mine hear it and a day later he asked me to send it to him. I gave him a USB drive with the song. A day later it was on Youtube. And then, all of the sudden, it took off. People were walking into clubs with USB drives and asking the DJ to play it. I laugh. Gnúsi Yones: But no one knew it was me. I could just walk onto the dancefloor and watch people’s reactions. It was nice. It gave me a kind of insight into the whole thing.
Ragnar Tómas: And it had a really distinctive style, which was very much your own. Gnúsi Yones: It was a song I did after a few beers on a Friday night, or something. I was just messing around in the studio. Ragnar Tómas: Classic. I’ve sometimes thought about that record that you and Antlew were working on, which was never released. Does that still exist? Gnúsi Yones: I still have it. Ragnar Tómas: Can you send me some of that stuff?
Ragnar Tómas: It was on the radio as well, right?
We laugh.
Gnúsi Yones: Actually, it was more of an underground hit. It wasn’t really played on the radio, but more in the clubs and in parties.
Gnúsi Yones: It’s sad that it never saw the light of day. There were like 40-50 songs, that I really liked. We shopped it around and tried to find labels to release
it, but no one was really interested. We were living in Sweden at the time. And I was in the studio, doing more and more tracks, instead of spending time promoting it and performing. But you live and you learn. We discuss old times. Gnúsi asks if I have a USB drive. I reply in the affirmative. A transfer of music occurs. Ragnar Tómas: And what’s next? A new Amaba Dama album? Gnúsi Yones: Yes, but I’ve had so little time to write new songs. I doubt that we’ll release a new album this year. But, hopefully, sometime soon. On that note our converation ends. I bid farewell to Gnúsi and return to my car. The construction workers are still bathing in the sun, pretending to be working. I drive past them and hum along to Fullkomna Ruglkona in my head.
Exhibitions
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Cycle LISTERÍA LISTERÍA is a collaborative exhibition by five Icelandic designers that is held in the unfinished art museum in Seltjararnes (next to Nesstofan). Construction of the museum is far from being completed, but its crude infrastructure and its pure view of nature provide an excellent venue for different kinds of contemporary art. The musuem was originally designed to display and preserve objects associated with the history of medicine in Iceland, but following the financial crisis – construction was postponed indefinitely, and the building’s future remains uncertain. The name of the exhibition may sound a bit repulsive, with listeria (list means art in Icelandic) being a bacteria that is prevalent in nature, and that causes infections in animals, and which can be lethal if found in humans. The exhibition LISTERÍA is a process where the artistic bacterium dominates. It infiltrates the vulnerable exhibition space and resides there autonomously throughout the month of August. Afterwards, no one knows whether the building will return to its former state of hibernation, or whether it will be revived again. Contributing artists include Ragnar Axelsson, Ívar Valgarðsson, Svava Björnsdóttir, Kristinn E. Hrafnsson and Finnbogi Pétursson. During the exhibition, artists from different fields will be afforded the opportunity of distributing the artistic bacterium around the building in the form of spontaneous performances and exhibitions, which will be advertised with short notice. The LISTERÍA bacterium is therefore an unpredictable phenomenon in which everything can happen. The exhibition is open during weekdays between 13:0017:00 throughout August.
Music and Arts Festival For the first time this summer the Cycle Music and Arts Festival will be held from August 13th – August 16th in Kópavogur. The festival aims to showcase inter-disciplinary artworks by international artists, many of whom are innovators in their fields. These artworks fall into the genres of contemporary music, performance art, visual art, audio art and architecture, with the main emphasis being on music. This is one of the first festivals that focuses on the burgeoning inter-disciplinary scene of music with other genres of art. Artists, scholars and guests will be invited to participate in the dialogue through concerts, events, workshops and symposiums, thereby promoting international collaboration and society’s participation in the contemporary art scene. The artworks that the festival will showcase promote the idea of recycling by introducing existing ideas, sounds, materials and spaces to new contexts, thereby expanding the viewers’ conception of their environment. Besides such conventional arts festival spaces as the concert hall and the art gallery, events and installations will also be staged in public places along with other selected spaces with the aim of altering the guests’ perception of their environment.
Ljósið / The Light
Litka Visual Arts Exhibition The exhibition Ljósið (The Light) opened on Thursday, June 25th. The exhibition features a diverse range of visual artwork by 33 artists. The exhibition features a diverse range of visual artworks by 33 artists. In celebration of the international year of the light 2015, the theme of the exhibition is, well – light. The theme is interpreted in various ways by the members of Litka, given that the subject of light is an inexhaustible theme that can refer to light in nature and the interplay between light and shadow. Most of the works are done with oil or acrylic but also with water colors and mixed techniques. Over 150 members belong to the Litka visual arts society, which was founded in 2009. Where: Gerðuberg Cultural Center (Gerðubergi 3-5, 111 Reykjavík) Hours: Weekdays 08:00-18:00 (Open Weekends in September) Price: Free
As part of the festival an exhibition will be held in Gerðarsafn under the direction of Nadim Samman. Samman studied philosophy at University College London before completing a doctorate in art history at the Courtauld Institute of Art. In 2012, Samman, alongside of Carson Chan, directed the fourth Marrakech biennial. Naddam’s projects in 2014 consisted, among others, of Antarctopia: The Antarctic Pavilion; the 14th Venice Biennial in architecture; and Treasure of Lima: A Buried Exhibition, which was a unique exhibition on the Pacific island Isla del Coco. Nadim is one of the two directors of Import Projects, the editor of Near East Magzine and curator at Thyssen-Bornemisza Art Contemporary.
Curators are Margrét Áskelsdóttir and Klara Stephensen. Where: The unfinished museum in Seltjarnarnes (next to Nesstofan) When: Throughout the month of August
Where: Kópavogur When: August 13TH – August 16th Price: 7,500 ISK www.cycle.is
Sumargöngur (Summer Walks)
Summer Concert at the Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum This Tuesday, August 4th, Alexandra Chernyshova (soprano), Ásgeir Páll Ágústsson (baritone), Jónína Erna Arnardóttir (piano) and Guðrún Ásmundsdóttir (story-teller) will be holding a special summer concert at the Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum. The concert will features stories and songs from the second world war (2015 marks the 70-year anniversary of the end of WWII). The Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum is dedicated to exhibiting works by the Icelandic sculptor, Sigurjón Ólafsson. It was founded in 1984 by the artist’s widow Birgitta Spur, as a
tribute to her late husband. Birgitta had the artist’s studio at Laugarnes converted to an exhibition space to house a large collection of his works. These include sculptures, sketches and drawings, as well as biographical material. Since 2012, Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum has been a division of National Gallery of Iceland. Where: Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum When: Tuesday, August 4th, 20:30 Price: 2,000 ISK (senior citizens and students pay 1,500 ISK)
Hafnarfjörður This summer, guided walking tours will be offered in Hafnarfjörður every Thursday at 20:00. The walking tours take about one hour and are open to everyone. Admission is free. Next Thursday, August 6th, former mayor of Hafnarfjörður Lúðvík Geirsson will be providing participants with a glimpse into the history of women’s commerce in Hafnarfjörður. Where: Starts at the Hafnarborg Art Museum When: Thursday, August 6th, 20:00 Price: Free
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Exhibitions
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Sleeper Horses The exhibition Sleeper Horses by Sigurður Atli Sigurðsson and Erin Gigl opened at the Reykjavík Art Museum on July 25th. The exhibition will be ongoing until August 6th. At the same time, the exhibition Kyrralíf will also be ongoing as part of the Kunstschlager D-Gallery exhibition series.
Toes/Tær (Opening)
Erin Marie Gigl grew up in Chicago but lives and works in Marseille, France. In 2013, Erin Gigl graduated with a Masters in Fine Arts with Honors from Marseille’s School of Fine Arts.
The Factory in Hjalteyri invites you to attend the opening of the exhibition Toes/Tær this Saturday, August 1st. During the opening, there will be live music and a party hosted by locals, along with light refreshments. Olof Nimar, Una Margrét Árnadóttir, Unndór Egill Jónsson and Örn Alexander Ámundason all studied in Sweden, and met for the first time in a small studio apartment in Malmö, where the idea for the exhibition originated. Even though all of these artists work in different media, they share an interest in the qualities and possibilities of the Factory: its size, rawness and natural surroundings. In the Factory in Hjalteyri the artists will present new works created especially for the space.
Where: Reykjavík Art Museum (Tryggvagata 17) When: Saturday, July 25th – Thursday, August 6th Price: 1,400
Where: The Factory, Hjalteyri (Verksmiðjan Hjalteyri) When: Saturday, August 1st, 14:00
Sigurður Atli graduated from the Iceland Academy of the Arts in 2011 and completed his Masters of Arts at Marseille’s School of Fine Arts in 2013 (with highest honors from the jury). In recent years, Sigurður Atli has held numerous exhibitions in Europe and has been invited to take part in artist-residence programs in Germany, Italy, France and Japan.
Margeir Dire A Million Stories Gallery Orange proudly presents the exhibition A Million Stories (Milljón Sögur) by artist Margeir Dire. The exhibition will feature new and old works by Margeir Dire, who is known for creating art that has a limited lifespan (in a performance art piece, Margeir once set his own painting on fire). Margeir Dire was born in Akureyri in 1985. Margeir has achieved remarkable things in his relatively short career, with a number of private exhibitions on his resume. Margeir Dire studied visual art at the Akureyri Comprehensive College, at the Akureyri School of Visual Arts, the Lahti Institute of Fine Arts in Finland and art direction at IED in Barcelona. A Million Stories is Margeir Dire’s 10th private exhibition. Where: Gallery Orange (Ármúli 6) When: Weekdays 09:00-17:00 Price: Free
Lust For Life Georg Óskar This Thursday, August 6th, painter Georg Óskar will be opening his 10th private exhibition Lust for Life at the Sím gallery in Hafnarstræti. Georg Óskar was born in Akureyri in 1985. He graduated from the Akureyri School of Visual Arts in 2009 and is currently completing an MA at the Bergen Academy of Art and Design. Georg Óskar is fascinated by the subconscious, and attempts to tap into the subconscious via the artistic process. Where: Sím Gallery (Hafnarstræti 16) When: Thursday, August 6th – Wednesday, August 26th
REYKJAVÍK CENTRUM
Elegant bistro menu Service with a smile Cozy atmosphere Great location
www.cafeparis.is
CAUTION (We place this caveat here, among the featured art exhibitions, for the benefit of the reader): Please be warned that art is a dangerous thing; a perilous thing; and should only be observed with the utmost care and caution. Individuals who observe art, worthy art, jeopardize their own ignorance and put at risk that innate conception of themselves which says that they occupy a privileged position within the Universe. Often, such individuals begin to feel less like avaricious, self-interested individuals and more like members of a vast, catholic tribe, until, gradually, they become friendlier towards animals; more solicitous about nature; and more troubled by grand social injustices.
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Blue Lagoon
Snowmobile on the top of a glacier
The Golden Circle 6 times daily
Book your tour now! iceland@grayline.is | +354 540 1313 | grayline.is
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South Coast & Waterfalls
Paragliding on the South Coast
Snæfellsnes Peninsula
24 HOUR BOOKING SERVICE Book now at www.grayline.is or call +354 540 1313 Sales Office, Hafnarstræti 20, 101 Reykjavík, Iceland
Food tips
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Slippbarinn
Kjallarinn Last week, SKE visited Kjallarinn (restaurant), located on Aðalstræti 2 in downtown Reykjavík. We began our journey with a Gin & Tonic. We have rarely seen as many varieties of this classic drink on offer. It was a refreshing start to a pleasant evening. Then we journeyed into the unknown. We began by ordering Kjallarinn’s signature dish: Black’n Blue tuna fish, spiced tomato marmalade, wasabi dressing and bacon pop. The tuna fish was savory and the bacon pop complemented the tuna nicely. We followed the tuna by one of the finest dishes that we have ever tasted, and which we will henceforth be referring to as “2007 in a jar” (the year 2007 in Icelandic signifies a kind of imprudent pre-financial-crisis extravagance). The dish was comprised of Pick Me Up langoustine, chili preserve,
cauliflower, foie gras and truffles: it left us speechless; all of the ingredients harmonized like five voices in a divine chorus. Following that heavenly jar, we ordered the charcoal grilled filet mignon as our main course – with a side of grilled cauliflower, Chimichurri, Jerusalem artichoke relish and some garlic mashed potatoes. It was beautiful. After allowing the food to settle, we concluded our culinary expedition with some caramel Crème brûlée, fresh berries and passion fruit sorbet. It was the perfect end to a perfect evening. We should also mention that each dish was accompanied with a special wine, which complemented the food nicely. All in all, we were charmed by Kjallarinn and intend on patronizing that fine restaurant in the future. – Sverrir www.kjallarinn.is
A few days ago, my fiancé and I visited Slippbarinn – a bar and restaurant that sits by the old harbor in downtown Reykjavík (and forms a part of Hotel Marina). Upon our arrival, we were greeted warmly by our waiter, who had reserved a table for us by the window. We ordered two Cokes and stared out the window in direction of the harbor. There was a bustle and a busyness to the establishment that lifted our spirits, and made us feel as if were a pair of happy celelbrities starring in some predictable romantic comedy. As we conversed about nothing in particular, we took note of the interior design; there were lamps suspended above the bar that looked as if they had once belonged to Jacque Cousteau’s Calypso. They were lovely. We ordered the gratinated cheese (gratinated Búri cheese with honey, pine nuts and bread) as an appetizer. Despite the busyness of the restaurant, the
appetizer arrived relatively quickly: a dish of bread and melted cheese in a miniature pan. We spread the cheese liberally over the bread and had a taste. It was, quite possibly, our favorite appetizer ever. As our main course, we requested the Beef Sirloin Burger and Foie Gras (steak burger and foie gras on brioche bread with red onionsand cranberry ketchup, 4-year old “Óðals cheese”, smoked onion, salsify fritters and mustard-truffle mayo). I have, in my illustrious culinary career, grilled a few burgers. I have grilled a few burgers during my illustrious culinary career (sarcasm) – but I have never grilled a burger that approached the lusciousness of the Beef Sirloin burger. All in all, Slippbarinn is a good choice if you are looking for a lively evening consisting of a fun atmosphere and great food. – Sam Flemmings www.slippbarinn.is
That Anonymous Pizza Place There are several ways to advertise a restaurant. One way is to print advertisements in newspapers and magazines; another way is to employ the internet as a medium of promotion; another way still is to involve billboards, television, telephones and direct mail. All of these methods can be effective, depending on the character of the ads and the virtue of the restaurant itself. But then there is a kind of restaurant that is so confident in the quality of its cooking that it does not advertise at all. It relies instead on oral dissemination, trusting that its customers will speak favorably of their establishment to their friends. Recently, a restaurant opened on Hverfisgata 12 (right next to Reykjavík’s main shopping street) that is so assured of its own quality that it not only relies on the chattiness of its customers – but has not even bothered to
give its restaurant a name. It is referred to by the citizenry as that pizza place on Hverfisgata, and, over time, it has become a favorite among my friends (I, myself, however, have remained skeptical). Thus, I dropped by for a taste. I began my meal like Napoleon – dessert first. I ordered the melted cheese called Ísbúi, with pickled vegetables, black pepper and bread. It was unusual but good. For my entrée I selected a pizza. It consisted of olive oil, olives, cheese, salad and Parmesan. It was unusual as well, but not entirely disagreeable. The service was quick and the mood was relaxed. I suppose their advertising strategy is effective; for here I am, talking about the restaurant in print. – Thomas Jefferson Snodgrass www.hverfisgata12.is
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10% online t un disco
Exciting Day Tours – Beautiful Places Tour Schedule
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The Blue Lagoon Bus
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Grand Golden Circle
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Glacier Lagoon
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Golden Circle Afternoon
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Compare Prices and Read Reviews on Tripadvisor www.bustravel.is
BUSTRAVEL · tel: +354 511 2600 · info@bustravel.is · bustravel.is
Design
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Book Rack Design: Agustav Multipurpose rack, designed to brighten everyday living.
Origami Fox Design: Krista Design
Agustav furniture and design is a collaboration between furniture makers and designers Gustav Jóhannsson and Ágústa Magnúsdóttir. Currently located in Iceland, they build each and every item in their workshop in downtown Reykavík. www.reykjavikcornerstore.com
Bark (iphone 6 case) Design: Börkur Design Elegant, carved iphone case (available in walnut and cherry wood). Börkur Design creates watches, phone cases, cutting boards and more.
Silver necklace and arctic fox pendant (available in black and white).
www.borkurdesign.com
Krista Design is a small design and creation company operated by the husband-and-wife team María Krista Hreiðarsdóttir and Börkur Jónsson. www.systurogmakar.is
Beach Towels Design: Ninna Thorarinsdottir Big and soft beach towels made from 100% cotton.
Growing Jewelry Rings Design: Haf Studio Silver rings: A mix between jewelry and gardening couture.
Ninna Thorarinsdottir is an Icelandic designer and illustrator based in Gothenburg, Sweden.
Haf Studio is an Icelandic design studio run by designers Karítas Sveinsdóttir and Hafsteinn Júlíusson. The company was founded in Milan, Italy 2010 but is currently located in the fish-packing district in Reykjavík.
www.reykjavikcornerstore.com
www.hafstudio.is
Beardcap Design: Vík Prjónsdóttir Classic Beardcap knitted from 100% Icelandic wool (available in two styles: The Farmer and The Gentleman). Vík Prjónsdóttir is an Icelandic company that designs and produces creative, high-quality wool products.
Gourmet Experience
- Steaks and Style at Argentina Steakhouse Barónsstíg 11 - 101 Reykjavík Tel: 551 9555 argentina.is
www.vikprjonsdottir.is
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We proudly present our latest collection. The Icelandic designed Tradition watches are stylish and are available in a range of color combinations. See the whole collection on michelsenwatch.com.
Laugavegur 15 - 101 ReykjavĂk - Tel. 354 511 1900 - www.michelsenwatch.com
Things to do
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Radio Iceland: One Station for the Nation
Mýrarboltin (Swamp Soccer Festival in Ísafjörður) The annual swamp soccer festival will be held this weekend in Ísafjörður. The festival consists not only of a swamp soccer competition, but of a lively musical program as well. Swamp soccer is played on a field that is approximately 60m x 35m. Two teams consisting of six members each endeavor to maneuver the soccer ball across the merciless swamp and into their opponents’ goal. The playing time is neither too long nor too short, and if anyone gets hurt (whether accidentally or not) the perpetrator of the pain must kiss the booboo. This is one of the most enjoyable outdoors festivals taking place this weekend. Where: Ísafjörður When: Friday, July 31st – Sunday, August 2nd www.myrarbolti.com
Mikkeller Running Club Reykjavík #5 The fifth Mikkeller Running Club is scheduled to take place this Saturday, August 1st. Participants can sign up for an easy 5 K race or a 10 K warm-up race for the upcoming Reykjavík Marathon. The 10 K race will follow the same path as the Reykjavík Marathon (Lækjargata-SuðurgataÆgissíða-Seltjarnarnes-Grótta-Grandi-Lækjargata). The 5 K route is slightly different (Lækjargata-HringbrautKlambratún-Rauðarástígur-Hverfisgata). Beer and longdistance running is such a delightful combo! Where: Hverfisgata 12 When: Saturday, August 1st, 11:00 Price: Free
A RARE, ONCE-IN-A-LIFETIME OPPORTUNITY Visit the largest man-made ice caves and tunnel in Europe You can choose from various tours and book online at www.intotheglacier.is
Radio Iceland is a brand new station that broadcasts in English. This is what makes it so special. In fact, regulations in Iceland needed to be changed for such a broadcast to be legal. This makes Radio Iceland a watershed in Icelandic broadcasting. The language spoken is English but the music is exclusively Icelandic. Radio Iceland interviews artists and people at the forefront of their fields; keeps you informed on what is going on in the country or in the city you’re staying in; and updates you on the weather and road conditions every hour. Radio Iceland also features different shows and content with a rotating cast of interesting hosts: a little bit of everything for everyone. All hosts have their personalities and are allowed to express themselves freely on air: no other radio station in the country is so permissive, which means that every time you tune in – you’re in for a treat! Radio Iceland is a brand-new station that started broadcasting in February of this year, but its increasing popularity at home and abroad suggests that by the end of this year it will be the leading station in the country.
Ein Með Öllu (One With Everything Festival in Akureyri) This bank holiday weekend, the Ein Með Öllu (One with Everything) festival will be held in Akureyri. The festival has been held since 1978. Most of the events can be attended for free, while admission to a few events can be purchased at a fair price. Some of the events that have become festival fixtures are the church steps run, the request-song concert at the Akureyri church, Moms and Muffins, the one and only ‘80s Dynheima Ball, Leikhópurinn Lotta and paintball. The festival ends with a concert and a fireworks show on Sunday night, which, over the years, has been attended by around 15-20,000 guests. Where: Akureyri When: Thursday, July 30th – Sunday, August 2nd Price: Varies depending on events
You can listen to Radio Iceland in your car or directly on its webpage: www.radioicelandfm.is
Iceland’s Circus at Síldarævintýrið
Úlfljótsvatn Fjölskylduhátíð
(the Great Herring Adventure Festival)
(Family Festival by Úlfljótsvatn)
Iceland’s Circus will be performing in Siglufjörður for the Great Herring Adventure festival (Síldarævintýrið á Siglufirði). The circus will be staging three different performances: Heima er best (Home is where the heart is), a large family-oriented performance; S.I.R.K.U.S. (C.I.R.C.U.S), a performance intended mainly for preschoolers; and Skinnsemi (Skinntelect), a cabaret circus performance for adults over the age of 18.
This weekend a family-oriented festival will be held at Úlfljótsvatn. Everyone is welcome to stay at the camping area: You don’t need to be a scout to enjoy yourself.
Where: The Great Herring Adventure (Siglufjörður) When: Thursday, July 30th – Sunday, August 2nd Price: 3,500 ISK www.midi.is
Where: Úlfljótsvatn Scout Center When: Thursday, July 30th – Sunday, August 2nd Price: 2,000 ISK (Festival Pass) www.ulfljotsvatn.is
The festival will feature the Lotta acting troupe, archery, boating, a climbing wall, a bouncy castle, golf, bonfires and scouting workshops. Those interested can purchase special festival passes or pay admission into single events.
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Ske
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What’s happening
On the Settlement of Iceland Iceland was the last European country to be settled – and for good reason. It is a dark, isolated and miserable place with an unreliable climate and few positive qualities to speak of. From the dawn of the human species, 200,000 years ago, it took mankind 199,126 years of continuous and conscientious reproduction to produce a single human being dumb enough to settle there permanently. First were the Gaelic monks – but they do not count; the Gaelic monks were Christian missionaries, and Christian missionaries were, as a rule, promiscuous and undiscriminating in their colonization of foreign land: they remain the settlement whores of human history. Then there was Naddoddr – but he does not count either; Naddoddr, who bestowed the unimaginative title of Snowland upon the country, stayed briefly and left quickly. After Naddoddr there was Garðar Svavarsson – but he, also, does not count; Garðar Svavarsson, upon arriving, did what any man in possession of a functional rational faculty would have done – and took a large u-turn around the island and returned to Sweden. Thereafter came Raven Flóki – but he does not count either; Raven Flóki, who conferred the unattractive name of Iceland upon the island, was tricked into brief and unfortunate settlement
by one of his birds: During his first winter in the country all of Flóki’s cattle died, leading him to do the reasonable thing and return back to Norway. All of these men were merely the whispered overtures to a rising crescendo in human pioneering foolishness. The first truly stupid man to depart from his native country with the intent of settling on the island – and then doing so – was Ingólfur Arnarson. Ingólfur, having been exiled from Norway after murdering someone, was determined to colonize the island and communicated this intention to his foster-brother, Hjörleifur. Upon his arrival, Ingólfur observed that he had made a huge mistake, but being allergic to any outward display of doubtfulness – relegated his blunder to some obscure corner of his mind and proceeded to settle. Ingólfur’s stubborn reluctance to admit that he was wrong is a character trait that has propagated itself through generations and remains peculiar to the nation still to this day. In 1924, the Icelandic people commemorated the character of that intractable fool by erecting a statue of him atop Arnarhóll. Everything about his posture proclaims him a vain and reckless ass – and yet one cannot help but to earnestly salute him in the spirit of dumb nationalism.
Happy Hour!
You know what time it is Prikið, Bankastræti 12
All weekdays from 16:00 - 20:00 Beer - 500 ISK
Vegamót, Vegamótastígur 4
Thursday till Saturday from 22:00 - 01:00 Beer - 750 ISK Wine - 750 ISK
Stofan Café, Aðalstræti 7 All days from 17:00 - 20:00 Beer - 750 ISK Wine - 950 ISK
Kaldi Bar, Laugavegur 20B All days from 16:00- 19:00 Beer - 650 ISK
Hlemmur Square, Laugavegur 105 All days from 17:00 - 21:00 Beer - 600 ISK Wine - 600 ISK
Slippbarinn, Mýrargata 2 All days from 15:00 - 18:00 Beer - 500 ISK Wine - 500 ISK
Smurstöðin Restaurant, Austurbakki 2 All days from 16:00 - 18:00 Beer - 500 ISK Wine - 600 ISK
Barber Bar, Laugavegur 66-68 All days from 16:00 - 19:00 Beer - 650 ISK Wine - 650 ISK
Loftið, Austurstræti 9
All days from 16:00 - 23:00 2 for 1 Laugavegi 20a 101 RVK 552-2300 www.lebowskibar.is
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PROBABLY THE
WORLD’S SMALLEST WATCH MANUFACTURER
Our Master Watchmaker never loses his concentration
With his legendary concentration and 45 years of experience our Master Watchmaker and renowned craftsman, Gilbert O. Gudjonsson, inspects every single timepiece before it leaves our workshop. All the watches are designed and assembled by hand in Iceland. Only highest quality movements and materials are used to produce the watches and every single detail has been given the time needed for perfection. At JS Watch co. Reykjavik we’re committed to provide a personal quality service and we pride ourselves on the close relationships we have with our customers.
Scan it and learn more! www.jswatch.com
www.gilbert.is
Fashion
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What’s happening
Una Valrún
Fatahönnunarnemi
Bjartur Snorrason
Síta Valrún
Gallery Sautján
Listakona & stílisti
Nudie Jeans Nudie Jeans is a Swedish clothing brand that many people associate with those dark-blue jeans with the orange seams. What most people don’t know, however, is that when it comes to sustainable thinking, Nudie Jeans is in a class of its own. Nudie Jeans makes its jeans from organic cotton, which means that the cotton is allowed to grow at its own natural rate. In almost all other kinds of cotton manufacturing, chemicals are used to expedite the growth of the cotton so as to produce greater quantities. 90% of Nudie Jeans’ production takes place in Europe, their policy being that all of the company’s employees should be provided with adequate salaries to sustain themselves. Nudie Jeans manufacturers almost all of its jeans in Italy, where an entire community has developed around its factories. The company also operates special repair shops, in London and in Gothenburg (the company’s hometown). At these repair shops, customers can bring in their torn jeans and have them mended so that they
can continue using them. If the jeans are almost completely worn, however, then individuals can trade in their old jeans and receive a 20% discount on a new pair. The old jeans are then washed, mended and given a new lease on life as secondhand jeans. This endeavor has earned Nudie Jeans the Swedish “Bra miljöval” environmental stamp. In those cases where the jeans are no longer fit for reuse, then they are broken down into thin strips of cotton and recycled into mats, chairs or other products. Nudie Jeans offers many well-designed cuts, from close-fitting to baggy. For the past years, the brand has also been manufacturing other products besides jeans, e.g. apparel and accessories. Personally, I am a big fan of their sweaters, most of which are produced in Portugal. Nudie Jeans products are sold in Iceland at Gallerí 17 and Kultur Menn. Recently, Nudie Jeans introduced its first line of women’s jeans, which are also available at Gallerí 17.
Vintage silk shirt, available at Nostalgia on Laugavegur
Cotton shirt from Zara
The White Shirt – An Iconic Piece of Clothing There are few things as classic as a white shirt. The white shirt is timeless, stylistically pure and an absolute staple. Whether stiff and shining white; cream-
colored and silken; oversized or closefitting; underneath a blazer or with jeans – regardless of ongoing trends – the white shirt is always classy.
Forte Forte, sold at Gloria on Laugavegur
Vivienne Westwood, “Hound Shirt”
Marion Cotillard
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Svarfadur Valley is Iceland’s most beautiful place, according to its people, the Svarfdaelings. A few years ago, all sheep in the valley were quarantined and destroyed because of scrapie, a fatal and infectious disease. That’s when they founded the Herding Society, a venerable club of shepherds, car mechanics, carpenters, schoolteachers and plumbers. They are also poets and singers and festive men. And they continue to herd every year, despite the fact that there is not a single sheep left in the valley. The Svarfadur Valley Herding Society: Skál fyrir þér! Léttöl
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Journey to the North and Grimsey If life is that which takes place when you are busy making other plans, then this weeks journey to the north is no exception: What started off as a simple tour of the fjords of the northern shore ended up in picking up an Israeli couple and travelling and camping with them for five days. Throw in a detour to Lake Myvatn and Latrabjarg, Iceland’s most western point, and you have one hell of a trip! And so, I submit to you, ladies and gentlemen, some photographic highlights from my trip. We go to press before I reach Latrabjarg, but that doesn’t mean that you, dear reader, will miss out on any Puffin action: the Island of Grimsey is filled with them!
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EXPLORE
LEARN
DISCOVER
Can’t catch the Nortern Lights? Don’t worry, we have already done it for you!
Visit us and enjoy our multimedia exhibition
OPEN EVERY DAY FROM 09.00–21.00
Grandagarður 2 - 101 Reykjavík - Near the old harbour Tel: (+354) 780 4500 - www.aurorareykjavik.is @aurorareykjavik
@aurorareykjavik
@aurorareykjavik
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What’s happening
ANT-MAN
MAGIC MIKE XXL
JURASSIC WORLD
HUMAN CAPITAL
LAUGARÁSBÍÓ | ÁLFABAKKI KRINGLUBÍÓ | SAMBÍÓIN EGILSHÖLL SAMBÍÓIN AKUREYRI | SAMBÍÓIN KEFLAVÍK
ÁLFABAKKI | KRINGLUBÍÓ SAMBÍÓIN EGILSHÖLL | SAMBÍÓIN AKUREYRI | SAMBÍÓIN KEFLAVÍK
LAUGARÁSBÍÓ | ÁLFABAKKI
BÍÓ PARADÍS
79%
7,9
64%
6,3
71%
7,3
81%
7,4
SHE’S FUNNY THAT WAY SMÁRABÍÓ | LAUGARÁSBÍÓ
36%
6,2
ENTOURAGE 1001 GRAMS
SPY
PIXELS
SMÁRABÍÓ | LAUGARÁSBÍÓ
SMÁRABÍÓ | HÁSKÓLABÍÓ LAUGARÁSBÍÓ | SAMBÍÓIN KEFLAVÍK | BORGARBÍÓ AKUREYRI
BÍÓ PARADÍS
7,6 6,6
95%
BÍÓ PARADÍS
7,4
32%
6,8
95%
87% 18%
5,3
SAN ANDREAS TERMINATOR GENISYS ÁLFABAKKI | KRINGLUBÍÓ SAMBÍÓIN EGILSHÖLL | SAMBÍÓIN AKUREYRI | SAMBÍÓIN KEFLAVÍK
7,0
GIRLHOOD
ÁLFABAKKI
26%
TOMORROWLAND
ÁLFABAKKA | KRINGLUBÍÓ
6,6
50%
ÁLFABAKKI SAMBÍÓIN, AKUREYRI
TED 2
SMÁRABÍÓ | LAUGARÁSBÍÓ
SMÁRABÍÓ | HÁSKÓLABÍÓ LAUGARÁSBÍÓ | KRINGLUBÍÓ | SAMBÍÓIN EGILSHÖLL | SAMBÍÓIN KEFLAVÍK | BORGARBÍÓ AKUREYRI
7,1
INSIDE OUT
48%
6,7
50%
8,9
98%
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What’s happening
565 6000 / somi.is
Eat Out in Iceland.
Check out our menu Enjoy Sómi sandwiches and wraps on your travels, Iceland’s favourite take-away! Fresh every day!