Ske #21

SKE Plans Your Perfect Day in Reykjavík #21

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Who Is The Most Famous Icelander??? Björk and Laxness battle it out

17.02.2016—16.03.2016

Your free copy Your guide to what’s going on in iceland

“I Didn’t Choose Filmmaking – Filmmaking Chose Me.” – SKE speaks with Icelandic director Baltasar Kormákur about Icelandic filmmaking, feminism, his new TV series (Trapped) and art.

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A “Perfect” Day Pt. 21 There is no such thing as perfect. A thing cannot be perfect. But when a thing is sufficiently wonderful we may refer to it as perfect for the sake of emphasis – such a thing is customary. A few days ago, we experienced a day that was wonderful enough to predispose us towards exaggeration, and we are confident that if any traveler were to follow in our footsteps, then they too would feel the same. It was, in all honesty, a perfect day.

The Harpa Concert Hall

Financial Crisis 10:30

It is February and you are in Iceland. Most likely you are in Iceland, seeing as you’re reading this. If you are some place other than Iceland: congratulations; Fate has dealt you a favorable hand. If you are in Iceland: condolences; Fate has made an ass out of you – an unfortunate ass, cold-cheeked and unshapely. I am exaggerating, slightly, of course. There are worse places to be in February than Iceland. Even though it is cold and it is windy and it is dark – there is, nonetheless, a lot to see. There are concerts, like Sónar Reykjavík; there are art exhibitions, like the Kjarval exhibition at Kjarvalsstaðir; there are natural wonders, like the hotspring Geysir, the Gullfoss waterfall and the Parliament Plains; there are magnificent museums, cozy coffeehouses, affecting architecture – and there is life! Life pouring forth from cracks on the streets, the open windows and the gaping mouths of the ofteninebriated Icelandic people. Within our humble magazine you will find a few ideas on how to make life in Iceland in February more bearable. You will find details concerning a number of concerts, art exhibitions and things to do; thoughts on what would constitute a so-called “perfect day” in Iceland; an article on the upcoming 2016 fashion year; a few notable Icelandic designs; tips on what to eat; a Q&A with a witty Icelandic DJ; alongside of a thoughtful interview with easy-on-the-eyes Icelandic director Baltasar Kormákur. So don’t mind the season, stay positive. It is as they say: He who stares, constantly, up life’s unpleasant end – will get defecated on, eventually.

Ske Editors: ritstjorn@ske.is Advertisement: auglysingar@ske.is Editorial and Interview: Ragnar Tómas Hallgrímsson Interviewee: Baltasar Kormákur Streets of Reykjavík: Birta Rán Printing: Ísafoldarprentsmiðja Layout: Helgi Pétur Lárusson Design: Gebo ehf.

Austur Indíafjelagið

Indian Food 18:30

The Harpa Concert Hall was almost a tragic, architectural reminder of Icelandic boom-era dissipation. For a while it almost seemed as if the edifice’s ghastly skeleton would loom over the harbor as a warning to future generations: “live within your means (don’t trust bankers).” Construction began in January, 2007 and the building was originally conceived as a kind of World Trade Center Reykjavík, intended to include a hotel, luxury apartments, retail units, restaurants – while also serving as the new headquarters for the Landsbanki bank. Construction was halted after the financial crisis, but the government and the city of Reykjavík eventually decided to complete the project – and they did. Today, Harpa is a beautiful architectural achievement that serves as a concert hall and conference center. It is well worth a visit. Take some pictures.

No day would be perfect without food. Never in the history of man has a member of our species uttered the words “it was a perfect day” after descending into sleep in a state of miserable hunger. This being the case, SKE would like to recommend an excellent restaurant that is guaranteed to elevate any day upwards in the direction of perfection: Austur Indíafjelagið, or the East India Company in English. There is one reason for this recommendation, honestly. Honestly, the East Indian Company boasts of a lovely atmosphere; speedy service; and wonderful entrées – but in our mind the principal appeal of the restaurant is its Naan bread. The Naan bread at the East India Company is so divine that we are tempted to give up on our predictable and rigid atheism; only intelligent design could have produced a chef talented enough to concoct such magic. AMEN.

Hannesarholt

Ghosts 11:30

EDITORIAL: IT’S FEBRUARY

One does not go to Paris and eat McDonald’s; one does not go to New Orleans and listen to One Direction; and one, definitely, does not go to Buenos Aires and dance the waltz. Why? Because the spirits of the city are offended by such tactless acts – and Reykjavík is no different. Reykjavík has its ghosts, its soul and its stories, and Hannesarholt is a part of that story. If you are unfamiliar with Hannesarholt then allow us to enligthen you: Hannesarholt is the former residence of Iceland’s first minister, Hannes Hafsteinn (who was also a talented poet) and it was one of the first concrete houses in the city. Today, it serves as a cafeteria (serving breakfast and lunch), a concert venue, a conference hall and an art gallery. SKE suggests visiting Hannesarholt during the weekend at noon for a taste of their lovely brunch. They offer both vegan and regular, both of which are fantastic and hearty. Allow the soul of the city to seep into your mug while you admire the art on the walls.

Arctic Adventures

Snorkel, snorkel 13:00

Arctic Adventures has been operating Icelandic adventure tours since 1983. They are so dedicated to their service, in fact, that there is almost nothing that they won’t do to please its customers. Here is a list of some of the things that you can do with Arctic Adventures: descend into ice caves; snorkel in glacial waters; hike up mountains; rent snowmobiles; spectate northern lights; watch whales; ride horses; mount ATVs; go kayaking. If you intend to leave our country with a lasting impression of our humble island firmly engraved into your soul – then we suggest the Into the Blue tour, in which you can dive into the Silfra fissure, between two tectonic plates. We hear it’s extraordinary.

Bar Ananas

Drinks 20:00

Half the charm of travelling is the implicit concession towards border-line alcoholic behavior; folks generally turn a blind eye to excessively drunk foreigners – or we at SKE do, at least. But then again, we are good people. Anyhow, if you are inclined towards the occasional consumption of an alcoholic beverage, SKE would like to suggest a good venue for blind intoxication: Bar Ananas, or Pineapple Bar in English. Admittedly, Bar Ananas is a strange place. It is a tiki-bar located in the last place you would expect to see a tiki-bar – downtown Reykjavík. But that’s the beauty of it. Drinking a cold beer during a wintry Icelandic afternoon inside a tiki-bar is like sipping a cup of hot-chocolate inside a man-made Egyptian glacier (Bar Ananas is open between 16:00 – 01:00 on weekdays and Saturdays, and between 18:00 – 01:00 on Sundays).

You’re in for a perfect day. The pictures relate indirectly to each segment: Michael Douglas played the financial risk-taker Gordon Gekko in “Wall Street”; Bill Murray starred in “Ghost Busters”; Jessica Alba starred in the film “Into the Blue”; Adrian Brody starred in “the Darjeeling Limited”, which takes place in India; and Dwayne “The Rock” Johnson has probably visited a few tiki-bars in his lifetime.

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SALE

Music

SÓNAR REYKJAVÍK 2016 WHO: Hudson Mohawke, Boys Noize, Squerpusher, Sturla Atlas, Reykjavíkurdætur and many more. WHAT (Genre): Mostly electronic WHEN: Thursday, February 18th – Saturday, February 20th WHERE: Harpa Music and Conference Hall WHY: Hudson Mohawke – that’s why. Sónar Reykjavik will take place on five stages at the beautiful Harpa Music and Conference Hall. Besides the two main stages, a section of the concert hall’s underground parking lot will be transformed to a nightclub, where local and international DJs will perform. The line-up boasts a balanced mix of international artists and fresh acts from Iceland’s thriving music scene. ADMISSION: 11,990 – 17,990 ISK

EIVøR PÁLSDÓTTIR WHO: Eivør Pálsdóttir WHAT (Genre): Folk, experimental, pop WHEN: Sunday, February 28th, 20:00 WHERE: Gamla Bíó WHY: Because Eivør Pálsdóttir has a beautiful voice. Last year, the Faroese singer released two albums, Bridges and Slør. At Gamla Bíó, Eivør will be celebrating the latter album, which is sung entirely in Faroese. Slør has received very favorable reviews from critics. It is raw and contemplative, addressing the subject of separation, and the artist’s quest for freedom. ADMISSION: 6,990 ISK

AGENT FRESCO WHO: Agent Fresco WHAT (Genre): Rock, experimental, progressive WHEN: Saturday, March 12th, 22:00 WHERE: Græni Hatturinn, Akureyri WHY: Because Agent Fresco released their sophomore album Destrier last summer, which received fantastic reviews. What followed was a spectacular release concert at the Harpa Music and Concert Hall along with a European tour. If Agent Fresco is known for anything – then it is their dynamic live performances. Lead singer Arnór Dan has an extraordinary voice. Also, Agent Fresco graced the cover of SKE last fall. ADMISSION: 3,500 ISK

FM BELFAST AT THE ANNUAL ICELANDIC BEER FESTIVAL WHO: FM Belfast WHAT (Genre): Pop, party music, electro WHEN: Saturday, February 27th, 21:00 WHERE: Fiskislóð 73, Reykjavík WHY: Because FM Belfast are definitely one of Iceland’s finest live acts. Currently, they are working on their 4th studio album. Check out their songs “Par Avion” and “Underwear” for a taste of their tunes. Anyone with a festival bracelet will be admitted into the concert for free, others will have to pay by the entrance. ADMISSION: 2,900 ISK

A RARE, ONCE-IN-A-LIFETIME OPPORTUNITY Around, on and deep within the awesome Langjökull ice gap glacier. Into the Glacier offers various tours to the World's largest ice tunnel. The ice tunnel and caves are located high on Iceland’s second largest glacier, Langjökull. Daily departures from Husafell at 12:30 and from Reykjavik at 9:00. You can choose from various tours and book online at www.intotheglacier.is Tel: +354 578-2550

AVÓKA & PAR-ÐAR WHO: Avóka and Par-Ðar WHAT (Genre): Psychedelic, rock, doom pop WHEN: Saturday, February 27th, 23:00 WHERE: Bar 11, Hverfisgata 18, 101 Reykjavík WHY: Because Par-Ðar is an exiting new hippie band that plays psychedelic rock in a unique way and focuses on creating compositions that allows the listener to find his inner self. AVóKA is a dreamy doom pop band from Reykjavík. Their music is best described as melancholic yet hopeful with a thick-layered sound created with harmonium, trumpet and unique vocals. ADMISSION: Free

BIOGEN RELEASE PARTY WHO: Quadruplos, Ruxpin, Futuregrapher, more WHAT (Genre): Electro, weirdcore, experimental WHEN: Wednesday, February 24th, 20:00 WHERE: Húrra WHY: Because Biogen was a legend who would have turned 40 on February 24th. In order to honor his memory, and his role as a pioneer of Icelandic electronic music, his friends raised funds online (via the crowdfunding site Karolina Fund) for a special Selected Biogen Works cd and vinyl record. Even though the hard-copies will not be available until a little later, his friends will be celebrating his birthday in style at Húrra – where many of the most talented electronica musicians in Iceland are set to perform. ADMISSION: 1,000 ISK

REYKJAVÍK AUSTURSTRÆTI 5 / ÞINGHOLTSSTRÆTI 2-4 OUTLET FAXAFEN 9 • GARÐABÆR MIÐHRAUN 4 • AKUREYRI HAFNARSTRÆTI 106 • VÍK Í MÝRDAL AUSTURVEGUR 20 • WWW.ICEWEAR.IS

Music

CLASSIC ICELANDIC SONGS

PEARLS OF ICELANDIC SONG WHO: Various WHAT (Genre): Classical, folk, hymns WHEN: Sunday, March 13th, 12:30 WHERE: Harpa Music and Conference Hall WHY: Because Pearls of Icelandic Song is a concert series that presents the audience with classical Icelandic music in a program that consists of some of the most beloved Icelandic songs, folk-songs and hymns. All the program is sung in Icelandic but annotated in English to aid foreigners in getting acquainted with classical Icelandic music. One of the leading classical singers in Iceland, Bjarni Thor Kristinsson, is the artistic director of the concert series. ADMISSION: 3,900 ISK

JÓNAS SIG OG RITVÉLAR FRAMTÍÐARINNAR WHO: Jónas Sig og Ritvélar framtíðarinnar WHAT (Genre): Soul, funk, blues, jazz WHEN: Thursday, March 3rd, 21:00 WHERE: Bæjarbíó, Strandgata 6, 220 Hafnarfjörður WHY: Because Jónas Sig og Ritvélar framtíðarinnar were recently nominated in three categories at the Icelandic Music Awards (song of the year in the rock category; lyricist of the year; and performer of the year). They will be celebrating the aforementioned nominations with a grand concert at Bæjarbíó in Hafnarfjörður – and the town of Hafnarfjörður is always worth a visit. ADMISSION: 3,000 ISK

Gus Gus – Over “We love us some Gus Gus.”

SKÁLMÖLD WHO: Skálmöld WHAT (Genre): Rock, metal, viking WHEN: Friday, February 26th, 21:00 WHERE: Háskólabíó WHY: Because all of the Skálmöld albums have officially reached Certified Gold Sales in Iceland, and the live album with the Iceland Symphony orchestra hit Platinum, the boys are throwing a special concert looking back on what has happened so far. The music will of course be the center piece of the evening, the power and joy that the band is known for, but the evening will have a very special theme. A lot has happened since the band started and the six of them want to tell the story, play music, tackle myths, show pictures, invite some guests and maybe even reveal some secrets. Definitely something that Skálmöld fans should not miss. The gig is all ages, but younger that 16 shall be under adult supervision. ADMISSION: 5,990 ISK

MÚLINN JAZZ CLUB WHO: Various jazz performers WHAT (Genre): Jazz! WHEN: Every week in February and March WHERE: Harpa Music and Conference Hall (Björtuloft) WHY: Because the Múlinn Jazz Club is a weekly concert series held at the Harpa Music and Conference Hall – a must-visit venue for any traveler. All of the concerts take place at the Björtuloft (Bright Lofts) venue at the very summit of the building. Björtuloft offers a spectacular view of the city, the sea and the venerable Mt. Esja. There is nothing quite like enjoying a few drinks over good jazz music. ADMISSION: 2,000 ISK

Kaleo – Pretty Girls “Iceland’s next big thing.”

Emiliana Torrini – Blame it on the Sun “Awesome cover.”

BENNI HEMM HEMM WHO: Benni Hemm Hemm WHAT (Genre): Acoustic, folk, pop, eclectic WHEN: Wednesday, March 2nd, 20:00 WHERE: Harpa Music and Conference Hall (Kaldalón) WHY: The Tin Drum is a concert series in Harpa, showcasing some of the Icelandic music scene´s biggest talents. On the first Wednesday of every month you are invited to enjoy good quality Icelandic music in the intimate setting of Harpa’s Kaldalón concert hall. On concert nights, a bar will be set up outside Kaldalón giving guests the opportunity to have a post-concert drink, enjoying the fetching view of the Reykjavík harbour. Benni Hemm Hemm has been writing music for over a decade and his latest album is heavily influenced by Scottish folk music. He sometimes appears solo, sometimes alongside of a very large band, but no matter the setup – he’s always great. ADMISSION: 3,500 ISK

The Sugarcubes – Birthday “Arguably one of Björk’s greatest performances.”

REYKJAVÍK FOLK FESTIVAL 2016 WHO: Various WHAT: (Genre): Folk music WHEN: Thursday, March 10th – Saturday, March 12th WHERE: Kex Hostel, Skúlagata 28, 101 Reykjavík WHY: The Reykjavík Folk Festival is an annual festival celebrating Icelandic folk music, which has inspired many of Iceland’s most famous musicians. ADMISSION: To Be Announced

Emmsjé Gauti – Strákarnir „Boys-Night-Out Anthem.”

Make a toast with Iceland’s no. 1 beer Pour a glass of the number one beer in the country, raise your glass to a friend and say “scowl fyrewr thyer!” You should fit right in.

Skál fyrir þér!

Léttöl

Interview: Ragnar Tómas Interviewee: Baltasar Kormákur Photographs : Allan Sigurðsson

SKE : I am a feminist. I am a feminist and I am not particularly fond of men who say that they aren’t feminists – who put on airs and announce with exaggerated confidence that they are egalitarians. There is something unoriginal about this sentiment; it smells of male chauvinism; reeks of the same stench emitted by the self-righteous comments visible on online Icelandic newspapers – there is a kind of “I know better” malodor to it. I sometimes wonder whether impugning feminism with this kind of logic isn’t comparable to being alive during the American Civil War and declaring that it isn’t so much that one is against the enslavement of the African Americans, but rather that one is for equal rights between the whites and the blacks. Hold on: Of course women do not, in most cases, live in such appalling conditions as African Americans during the middle of the 19th century – but the two are, in some way, analogous; equality has not been attained. Given this fact, I believe that focusing our attention on the rights of women is justifiable, even though the pendulum swings a bit far in one direction. A stronger and more equal class of women in Icelandic society will only benefit the male class. When women are discriminated against, inevitably, men suffer as well. But what do I know? … A few days ago I met up with Icelandic director Baltasar

Yes, it’s an attitude that’s difficult to uproot. They may see my advocacy as a form of opportunism. This notion means that many men, who are starting to think along the same lines as me, will not take that step. Changing one’s mind isn’t such a bad thing, but many men won’t change their minds after thirty. This is why no men enroll in refresher courses at the university – only women. It’s necessary for everyone, every once and a while, to reassess their values and reconsinder their attitudes. (I couldn’t agree more with Baltasar. I start thinking about Emerson, about his idea that a foolish consistency is the hobgoblin of small minds. It requires just as much courage to stand by one’s opinions, as it does to let them go, once one begins to doubt them.) Not that I was against the rights of women, I just wasn’t prepared to publicize my support. I have two daughters, one who is 19 and the other who is 22. My heart tells me that they don’t deserve less than my sons. It’s a question of human rights. I’m not gonna be like those men who were against women’s suffrage in the past. (Baltasar laughs. He recently watched the film Suffragette and says that he does not want to be an advocate for that same attitude that members of the British parliament stood for during those times, when they asked “What’s next? Will they aspire to become members of parliament!?) It is good to look back into history and consider how these men spoke. They aren’t so dissimilar from those who criticize feminism today. I’ve often said that it doesn’t necessarily need to be a gender quota, so long as we do something. We can’t simply excuse this imbalance and wait for it to even out in time: We need to act. (Personally, I have considered whether a gender quota is the right way to go, whether that isn’t striking at the branches of the problem and not the roots. But Baltasar is right: a gender quota is an expedient solution.)

Kormákur. As I waited in the reception at RVK Studios

And so what if we end up subsidizing a few bad films; it’s not like men haven’t made any bad films in Iceland.

(Baltasar’s production company), I mused on these

(We laugh.)

ideas. I mused on these ideas because Baltasar himself

SKE: Do you think that you would have adopted this attitude if you weren’t the father of two girls? Has being a father played a substantial role?

recently stepped forward as an advocate for women’s rights in Icelandic filmmaking.

FEMINISM (Baltasar and I begin by discussing 2015. Baltasar tells me that his film Everest was a kind of personal zenith for him last year. Then he discusses his participation in the fight for women’s rights in filmmaking.) SKE: You were in favor of legislating a gender quota into the allocation of subsidies by the Icelandic Film Fund … I believe that it would be beneficial and I am immensely proud of coming out of the closet as a feminist – of going from being a male chauvinist, more or less, to being a feminist. I encourage others to follow in my footsteps. (Baltasar laughs.) SKE: Undoubtedly, a step in the right direction. I was actually at a New Year’s party the other day and there was someone who was giving me a hard time about it. A few men accused me of being a turncoat. SKE: Really?

Definitely, especially having children of both genders. It makes no sense thinking that my girls deserve less than my boys. It makes no sense having posters of naked women on the wall when you have girls that are the same age. There are certain things that just don’t make sense in that environment and you learn to adapt and to mature. (I tell Baltasar about my father-in-law who recently expressed his disapproval with my folding of bedsheets. He’s part of a generation in which that kind of a thing wasn’t becoming of a man. But things have changed.) I come from a very unusual home. My father is Spanish and comes from a macho environment – and yet my mother had all the power. She did everything. I partook in the housework from a young age but my father didn’t. That kind of a thing isn’t as much of a leap for me, as it was for him. And yet this bias of male chauvinism is buried within me, here and there. It is necessary to engage in constant introspection: Is there some paternalistic dinosaur creeping within my psyche?

(Baltasar laughs.) It is essential that one engage in that kind of self-analysis on a regular basis. This attitude is so prevalent in society, especially in humor. We often joke about how hard it is for fathers when their daughters begin dating. It’s a father’s nightmare. (I’m guilty of this attitude. I have often said, jokingly, that I would greet all of my daughter’s future suitors in a tanktop, with a grim face, possibly armed.) I haven’t discovered this, personally. It smells of paternalism. Should fathers be more involved in their daughter’s sex lives than their son’s? Should we be afraid of their enjoyment of sex? This kind of attitude is common in American films, for example. I find it a bit tasteless. (We laugh.) SKE: Sometimes I catch myself harboring such biases. The other day I was listening to a podcast hosted by the American writer Bret Easton Ellis, who, not too long ago, criticized the Academy for awarding Katheryn Bigelow the Oscar for her film the Hurt Locker. In Ellis’ opinion, the Academy was obviously giving her an Oscar because she was a woman, considering that the Hurt Locker was not a good film. Some people were appalled by his remarks. I agreed with Ellis in that I felt that he had a right to his opinion, and that there could be something to it. When I discussed my agreement with Ellis with a friend of mine, she convinced me that this was a rather unoriginal and base stance to take: to immediately believe that a film was being honored just because the director was a woman, instead of considering that some members of the Academy didn’t agree with Ellis’ opinion – and truly appreciated the Hurt Locker. This malecentered attitude is so ingrained. One needs to be on one’s guard constantly. I mean, when has there been any kind of consensus regarding Oscar-winning films? Take Crash, for example, which wasn’t a particularly strong film. But because it was directed by a man this discussion never took place. The same applies to African American actors who have won awards. We immediately indulge in this lowest-commondenmoninator way of thinking. In terms of the Hurt Locker, it was competing against Avatar, which was far from a masterpiece.

THIRTY SKE: I’ll be turning thirty in a month. I’m not sure what to make of it. What were you doing when you were thirty? I was taking my first steps as a film director. I had acted in a few movies since I graduated from drama school, at the age of 24, and I had directed a few plays for the theater. You have a few more years. (Baltasar laughs.) I wasn’t the Spielberg kind of director: eight years old filming my family. I didn’t choose filmmaking – filmmaking chose me. I realized, during the filming of 101 Reykjavík, that this was what I wanted to do. Everything in me was working for me, at that moment. I loved my job so much that I lost track of time. SKE: If you could travel back in time and give your thirty-year-old self some advice, what would you say? First of all, I wouldn’t have wanted to stop myself at that age, or that megalomania that drove me. I was fortunate that 101 Reykjavík did really well. If I were to offer advice, to myself or someone else at that age, then I would say: better safe than sorry; don’t get ahead of yourself; and don’t gamble with your home or your finances – simply because the chances are that you’ll fail. SKE: You once said that testosterone was the reason why men are more likely to take risk than women. I think so – but they’re also more likely to go overboard. Testosterone has, undoubtedly, played a big part in my life. Early on, I was always fighting. I beat other men up. Then I steered that energy in a different direction; I stormed into projects, some of which I hadn’t really thought through. But I have managed to claw my way out of most holes.

„Changing one’s mind isn’t such a bad thing. But there aren’t a lot of men who change their minds after thirty. This is the reason that most men don’t take refresher courses at the university – only women.“

10 SKE: Art is a kind ouf outlet for you? No question. There’s a kind of power that comes with it, as well. Today, things are on a more even keel. I have my wife to thank for that; she keeps me grounded.

TRAPPED SKE: Every Sunday night, a large portion of the Icelandic population tunes into Trapped (Ófærð) on television. In retrospect, are you pleased with the outcome? Is there anything that you would have changed? I’m immensely proud of the project. We managed to produce a series that the Icelandic people will watch, judging by the numbers, at least, and also we’ve sold the rights to many foreign TV stations. This is the first step in creating something that could be very big in the future. Breaking the ice in this manner, so to speak, is a feat that I’m very proud of. I’m proud of having brought money to Iceland – after having taken a considerable risk myself – and I’m proud that I’ve been able to bring Icelandic actors, and the Icelandic language, to a worldwide audience. This is so much bigger than a movie. Trapped will be shown on prime time on many of the biggest television stations in the world – during the same time slots as the Bridge (a popular Scandinavian TV show) on German and French television. (Baltasar says that there are probably some things that could have been improved, in retrospect. Everyone’s got an opinion, he says.) But I’m very proud the project: having managed to bring a billion Icelandic krona in order to finance the series; having created the storm; having shot the series in the countryside; having been able to finagle the ferry for shooting. The production quality of the show is tantamount to that of Icelandic movies. You could say that we shot five movies, ten episodes. SKE: You seem quite attracted to harsh environments: You swam about in the north-Atlantic ocean for the Deep; you took on the mountains in Everest; and from there you go into a blinding snowstorm for Trapped. (Baltasar tells me that he’s searching for some kind of truth. What is Iceland? He doesn’t pay any attention to the criticisms of Twitter users, who doubted the credibility of the storm and that it would render nearlying roads impassable.) I was often asked by the foreign media how I prepared myself for shooting Everest. I told them that I prepared myself when I was ten years old walking to school; I experienced those kind of storms almost every other day. (Baltasar laughs. He’s obviously exaggerating a little bit.) I love visceral movies, movies where you can really feel the cold. So long as there is some flavor to things. This vanilla pudding that one is served too often by filmmakers, especially American filmmakers, doesn’t interest me. I’m not a nostalgic director, even though I’ve produced a few nostalgic films. I prefer the present. The Oath, the new movie that I’m workin on, is in the present.

ICELANDIC FILMMAKING SKE: On that note, it could be said that 101 Reykjavík kind of veered off the beaten path that Icelandic filmmakers had previously taken. I’ve often said about Icelandic films that sometimes they don’t do adequate justice to the Icelandic reality. The danger of focusing on these kind of romantic, nostalgic films is that we tend to cater to the expectations of foreigners, who, undoubtedly, like those kinds of films. (Baltasar compares Amélie and La Haine, two films that paint a very different picture of French reality. In Baltasar’s mind there is room for both kinds of films, but that it is important to produce films that do justice to the Icelandic reality in its modern form.)

like this that occur in Reykjavík, in which young women from upper-class families start associating with the wrong people. SKE: I’m familiar with a story like that myself. My best friend once told me that there was a time when he had a loaded shotgun in his trunk. He was going to retrieve his daughter. Fortunately, he didn’t have to use the shotgun, but it was loaded in the trunk. Since then she’s been on an eight-month detox. She’s seventeen. This kind of thing is not uncommon. SKE: Recreational drug use seems to be on the rise … but back to filmmaking: You’re quite busy. Besides the Oath, I’ve got two big films that are in the works. On the one hand, a Viking film that Universal is producing, and on the other hand, a film by the name of Cascade starring Cate Blanchette, which Fox is producing. These films are in the works. I’ve also got other projects that are quite big, in addition to all of the projects that I’m working on here in Iceland. SKE: Like Independent People (Baltasar owns the rights to the Nobel-Prize winning novel by Halldór Laxness)? Among others. I’m determined to produce films in Iceland and abroad. The dream is to attract international filmmakers to Iceland and to bring Icelandic actors into international films. There have been a number of actors who have made their way abroad through me, such as Ingvar E. and Ólafur Darri. This doesn’t detract from what we’re doing here at home. In order to quote myself again: There’s no quota on success. If one person is successful then that increases the chances that other people in the same business will be successful as well. For a long time Icelanders were under the delusion that only one person could be successful at any given time.

SKE: So you prefer a kind of realism? SKE: That’s the wrong way to look at things. Not necessarily a kind of naked realism, but like in the Oath, where I’m grappling with something that is happening in our society today, through the thriller genre. I like accommodating the narrative to a specific genre. The thriller genre fasincates me. SKE: You’ve said before that one of your favorite films is Witness. I loved that film; it was a work of art in the form of a thriller. SKE: Tell me about the Oath. I direct and star in it, alongside of other actors, such as Ingvar E., Hera, Gísli Örn and Margrét Bjarnadóttir. The Oath is about a surgeon whose daughter begins dating a drug dealer. The plot revolves around the surgeons attempt to put an end to the relationship. I’ve heard stories

Just look at how Björk has opened the doors for other musicians. It’s not only about opening doors – it’s about opening minds. There will be filmmakers after me who will inevitably think: If Baltasar did it, why can’t I do it too? That’s bigger than the other thing. There’s some kind of glass ceiling that’s shattered in the minds of the people. I’ve often joked that if I had said during my schooling in the westside of Kópavogur that I was going to grow up and direct Denzel Washington in Hollywood – I would have been driven to the insane asylum right away. This idea didn’t exist. There was no Björk.

THE ART OF LIVING SKE: I’ve thought a lot about art and I have this theory. If one could speak about the “purpose” of art, then I think that purpose is, first and foremost, about teaching the audience to live life. The art of living transcends all other arts. You’re probably one of the few people who has managed to find success in both domains. You’ve live a diverse and an exciting life, I suspect, but you’ve also directed influential works, for the stage and the big screen … Art has such an extensive purpose. You’ve probably got a point, but I can’t really differentiate between life and art. I live art and art lives within me. I was raised in a home in which my father painted during the nights and when I was leaving for school in the morning he was going to sleep. There were always new paintings on the walls. My mother created sculptures, some of them were exhibited and some of them found there way back to our house. Some times there was food on the table, some times there wasn’t. It all revolved around art. But I don’t want to be limited by art. I call myself an artist, proudly – but to me that’s not important. I never ask myself: I wonder if people will consider this art or not? (Baltasar and I discuss the recent performance art piece by a student at the Iceland Academy of the Arts, who spent an entire week in a glass cage, naked, as the Icelandic nation watched live on the internet.) I’ve had so many vain conversations about art. I love functional architecture. I’m not really excited by nonfunctional architecture. To be able to live inside a beautiful work of art, that’s great. A film that no one watches detracts from the value of the film, in my opinion. (Baltasar refers to Witness again, which, in his opinion, has everything: it was a fun movie that was a work of art and which imparted some kind of truth.) I don’t like to analyze myself, or what I do, too much – I just do it. These films that I make are a kind of psychology sessions. The aim is to mature and I am grateful that I can do that through art. If there is any purpose to art it is to mature. SKE: Is there any one lesson that art has taught you that is more important than others? It’s hard to boil it down to one thing … there is maybe one thing, which I’ve discovered: spirit and substance are one. I had a conversation about this the other day. God resides in our genes – God is the collective conscience of mankind. Mankind has improved. We are improving, just look at the rights of women, homosexuals or colored people. We’re always talking about the decline of the world – but that’s not true. (On these words our conversation concludes. We ended up where we started, in the eternal fight for a better world. SKE recommends Baltasar’s new television series Trapped – and feminism as well. Men don’t need to fear feminism any more than they have to fear their mothers.)

GOOD EATS & HAPPY BEATS Brilliant breakfast, Coffee of all kinds, Wholesome lunch and Captivating cakes

Icelandair Hotel Reykjavík Marina | Mýrargata 2-12 | +354 560 8060 | kaffislippur.is

Exhibitions

Chantal Joffe, Gauthier Hubert, Jockum Nordström, Tumi Magnússon: Quartet The National Gallery of Iceland begins its exhibition program in the new year with an exhibition that brings together four contemporary artists: Gauthier Hubert (1967), Chantal Joffe (1969), Jockum Nordström (1963) and Tumi Magnússon (1957). All four center their work on the human being itself. The presentation of their work revolves around art itself and its history, both ancient and modern, and they take quite disparate approaches to historical points of departure. When: Runs until May 1st, 2016 Where: National gallery of Iceland, Fríkirkjuvegi 7, 101 Reykjavík

Margrét Blöndal i8 Gallery i8 Gallery is delighted to announce an exhibition of new drawings by Margrét H. Blöndal. This is Blöndal’s first solo show at the gallery. Coinciding with the opening is the publication of a monograph: Margrét H. Blöndal Drawings, published by Crymogea. Language is in the thrall of equivalences and allusion. We say what something is by saying what it reminds us of, of what it is like. We talk in likenesses. When speaking of art this becomes even more pronounced. The metaphors entwine and unravel. The illusionistic idiom is so ingrained within language we can move over it, almost oblivious to its presence. We optimistically cling to the chimeric function of language, using it as in imprecise tool, a blunt knife. The drawings of Margrét H. Blöndal make language feel particularly blunt. When: Runs until March 5th, 2016 Where: i8 Gallery, Tryggvagata 16, 101 Reykjavík

Katrín Elvarsdóttir: Double Happiness Katrín Elvarsdóttir exhibits her series Double Happiness, made in China between the years 2010 and 2014. Katrín depicts an image of a city on the boundaries of the everyday and the invented – characterized by the rhythm of moments and a narrative in the form of repetition. Nature in the city takes the form of plants which have put down roots in the man-made environment, and is reproduced on posters and in floral designs on garments and upholstery. Human life is seen in portraits of elderly women, pictures of homes and found sculptures. But the subjects are not fully revealed: The women are shown from behind, moving away, and the homes are viewed from outside through half-closed curtains. The series is a still life of a city, while the audio work Walk Straight, Turn Left provides an insight into the noise and the multitudes which surround the subjects. Katrín captures the stillness among the hordes of people that conflicts with the title – the Chinese character for happiness (twice) – used for special occasions and ornament. When: Runs until February 27th, 2016 Where: Kópavogur Art Museum, Gerðarsafn, Hamraborg 4, 200 Kópavogur

Kristbergur Ó. Pétursson: Fields of Lava Kristbergur has devoted himself to the art of painting from the beginning of the 1980s. He emerged alongside of a wave of artists associated with new painting, which is a powerful new take on the art form that challenged and broke traditions. Kristbergur Pétursson (f. 1962) has developed his art towards abstract painting where color, flow and space seem to seek inspiration from dark natural scenes. When: Runs until March 13th, 2016 Where: Hafnarborg, Centre of Culture and Fine Art, Strandgata 34, 220 Hafnarfjörður

Jóhannes S. Kjarval: Mind and World On February 5th an extensive exhibition of the works of Jóhannes S. Kjarval was opened. The title of the exhibition is Mind and World and consists of both paintings and drawings from the whole of Kjarval’s career. The exhibition comprises two parts. The principal content will be rarely-seen works from the unique, private collection of Þorvaldur Guðmundsson and his wife Ingibjörg Guðmundsdóttir, which are preserved at Gerðarsafn and are shown alongside pieces from the Reykjavík Art Museum’s own collection. The exhibition offers an excellent opportunity to see key works from the artist’s career and to gain insight into the recurrent themes which are characteristic of his oeuvre – on the one hand Icelandic nature in all its diversity, and on the other hand the life and symbolism the artist sensed in his surroundings – perceived by the mind as much as seen by the eye. The collection of Þorvaldur and Ingibjörg includes many of Kjarval’s key works, among them Lífshlaupið (The Story of Life), a large-scale mural from the artist’s studio in Austurstræti in Reykjavík. Completed in 1933, The Story of Life exemplifies various factors which recur regularly in Kjarval’s work: landscape and working life, while the work also includes the fantastical element, which is a feature of much of his oeuvre. When: Runs until August 21st, 2016 Where: Kjarvalsstaðir, Flókagata 24, 105 Reykjavik

Hulda Rós Guðnadóttir: KEEP FROZEN Part 4 KEEP FROZEN part four is inspired by a reflection on the history of the Ásmundarsalur gallery in the Listasafn ASÍ museum in Reykjavik, an exhibition space for paintings and the venue in which the exhibition takes place. The exhibition is also inspired by the history of the museum, which features a collection of paintings owned by manual workers. The Icelandic Confederation of Labour (ASÍ) owns the museum and will celebrate its 100-year anniversary in 2016. Befittingly, the artwork on view will be developed and performed in collaboration with dock workers from the Reykjavik harbor (the Reykjavik harbor celebrated its 100-year anniversary in 2015). This exhibition is the fourth in the Keep Frozen series and it weaves together various narrative threads from previous exhibitions by Hulda Rós Guðnadóttir. When: Runs until February 28th, 2016 Where: Listasafn ASÍ, Ásmundarsalur, Freyjugata, 101 Reykjavík

Q&A

Q&A With Sunna Ben Visual Artist, DJ and Cat Whisperer

Names, Nicknames, Pet Names, Misnomers? When I started DJ-ing I tried calling myself $ubba Tudda (which could be translated to English as “the slovenly rogue”, which sounds a lot better than the Icelandic), but booking agents were so repulsed by it that they refused to write it on the programs. Sometimes people call me Sunnfríður. My brother thought that was my real name up until two years ago – he was quite surprised that Sunna wasn’t shorthand for Sunnfríður. Tupac or Biggie? Why? Tupac, all day. He’s been my favorite rapper for a long time: a good man who looks the part. He knew what he was singing right from the start. I love ‘Pac. If you were to describe yourself as a piece of furniture in an elaborate IKEA manual – what would said description sound like? Short-legged. Sturdy but soft. Gothic in appearance. Good teeth and a thick mane. Mostly made out of water. What’s your favorite animal and how is said animal posed when you imagine it? My cat, Salem. I love him the most when he sleeps on his back with his mouth and eyes open, and when his short paws are curled up by his sides like little buns. It sounds rather disgusting, but in reality it’s cute as hell. What do you think about when you can’t sleep at 4 AM in the morning and it’s raining? I try not to stress myself out too much about unfinished projects

and work-related stuff, and so I either muse upon sunny beaches or someone whom I have a crush on. That way, sometimes, you end up making out with that person in your dreams, which is awesome. What was the song of the year (2015)? As a DJ, what song do you play before it and after it? Shut Down with Skepta, definitely. You can transition into it through so many songs. But I imagine that if Sura and I were DJ-ing at Prikið during the wee hours of the night then we would probably play U Mad by Vic Mensa, Shut Down by Skepta followed by Man Don’t Care by JME: Rugged and beautiful. Is there a purpose to life? If so, what is that purpose? Certainly: Squats. When was the last time you laughed so hard that milk spilled from your nostrils? I’m lactose intolerant, but I spewed Kristal from my nostril at a Seth Rogen movie during Christmas. I hope I didn’t spew any Kristal on the man in front of me. At least he didn’t complain, poor bastard. Favorite quote / one-liner? “It’s not a fluke, it’s been tried, I’m the truth.” - Dr. Dre Go-to exercise at the gym? Why? Squats. They’re good for the entire body. Before I started doing squats every week I had a weak hip and a poor sense of balance, both of which have improved ever since I started doing various kinds of squats. Also, it really makes one’s ass pop.

Stay In the Loop SKE doesn’t want you to be out of the loop during your time in Iceland. Here are some useful facts that could serve as ice-breakers during your conversations with the locals. POLITICS: The Pirate Party, whose ideology is closely associated with direct democracy and freedom of information, is currently polling with around 40% support in Iceland – which is unprecedented for a party not belonging to one of the four traditional parties in Iceland. Like elsewhere in Europe and the States, people seem fed up with traditional politics. SPORTS: The Icelandic international men’s football team qualified for the 2016 European Cup last fall – for the first time in Icelandic football history. The tournament kicks off this summer in France and many Icelanders are planning to make the trip to witness this historic moment.

TELEVISION: The Icelandic television series Ófærð (Trapped), produced and directed in part by Icelandic filmmaker Baltasar Kormákur, is currently being shown every Sunday in Iceland (as well as in Germany and France). Trapped is the most expensive television series in Icelandic history. The second episode was viewed by almost 50% of the nation. MUSIC: The Secret Solstice Music Festival will be held for the third time this summer – and Radiohead is set to headline the festival. The festival will also feature the US rapper Action Bronson, one of SKE’s favorites.

MOVIES: Two new Icelandic films will premier this February: Fyrir framan annað fólk (In Front of Other People), a romantic comedy about a shy, young graphic designer who tries to win the heart of his crush by imitating his philandering boss, and Reykjavík, a bittersweet drama about relationships and relations. OTHER: The affluent and often temperamental Icelandic neurologist Kári Stefánsson is currently in the process of collecting signatures to urge the government to increase government spending on health care. Statistics show that Iceland’s annual expenditure on health care is lower in comparison to other Scandinavian countries. Currently, over 75,000 Icelanders have signed the petition.

Our Favorite Podcasts

#10 Love and Radio Love and Radio is radio in its purest form. The podcast is really an interview show in podcast form, but not in the conventional sense; each episode usually begins with some ambient music and then – a voice. One voice telling a story. Nothing more. #9 The TED Radio Hour

It has been five months since we began

Most people are familiar with TED Talks, where different people with different ideas come together to share their ideas with the world. The TED Radio Hour is a podcast in which a few TED lectures are entwined into a single show with a single theme. It is sometimes, not always, quite enlightening.

discussing podcasts on the pages of SKE.

#8 Fresh Air

Five months is a long time. 5 months. 20 have finally surrendered to the shameful

For the past few decades, Terry Gross has been engaging in interesting and sincere conversations with many of America’s most famous people. Terry Gross is, in our humble opinion, a kind of interview idol, a conversational conquerer – a podcast paladin. Fresh Air should belong to every podcast library.

longing for creating a list, and we ask our

#7 Open Source

readers to forgive us; what is man but a the persuasive charm of a series of things

Open Source is a weekly podcast (from Boston) in which Christopher Lydon, a former political columnist for The New York Times, discusses a slew of pressing issues with his guests. The podcast’s web page sums it up nicely: “Open Source is an American conversation with an international attitude.”

sequenced in descending order from

#6 Here’s the Thing

good to slightly better?

Alec Baldwin is a character. And because Alec Baldwin is a character he is a good interviewer. He has an opinion on things, is funny and, often times, quite eloquent. Since October, 2011, Alec Baldwin has been hosting his own radio show at WNYC in New York. Great interviews, great show.

weeks. 140 days. 3,360 hours. Now we

slightly evolved ape who cannot resist

National Museum of Iceland

The Culture House National Museum of Iceland

The Culture House

The country’s largest museum of cultural history from settlement to present day.

Manuscripts, fine art, natural specimens, curiosities and archeaological findings form the exhibition Points of View.

Suðurgata 41 101 Reykjavík www.thjodminjasafn.is tel +354 530 22 00

Hverfisgata 15 101 Reykjavík www.safnahusid.is tel +354 530 22 10

The exhibitions, shops and cafés are open daily 10 - 17

Closed on Mondays 16/9 – 30/4

#5 This American Life This American Life is probably the most famous podcast in history (thus far). The show is broadcast on over 500 radio stations every week and it boasts an audience of 2.2 million. This American Life has also been awarded all of the major prizes in the field of radio and over a million people download the podcast every week. #4 99% Invisible If you are unfamiliar with 99% Invisible it is likely that you are doing something wrong in life. Life is possibly speeding past you. Life is a train, you are a cow, masticating on sour hay. Anyways: 99% Invisible is a podcast about design, architecture and all those “invisible” things that constitute our modern world. #3 Ideas (CBC Radio) Ideas is produced by the Canadian Broadcasting Channel and it is hosted by the agreeable Paul Kennedy, who has a wealth of experience in the field of radio. Each episode has a theme, which the host and his guests attempt to dissect in 60 minutes. Ideas make the world go ‘round! #2 Radiolab Most podcast fiends agree on one thing: What makes Radiolab great is its masterful production and audio engineering. The show began 13 years ago and the idea behind the show was simple: to share interesting stories that make the listeners think – that alter the listeners’ worldview. #1 Entitled Opinions Entitled Opinions is not for the ignorant masses. Entitled Opinions is only for those who habitually exercise that forbidden human ritual of deep thought. More often than not, Entitled Opinions is an interview podcast, in which Robert Harrison, a professor of Italian literature at Stanford, discusses recondite topics with various erudite guests. Former topics include Russian Futurism, the theories of Einstein, female friendship and Jorge Luis Borges.

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Things to Do

THE ANNUAL ICELANDIC BEER FESTIVAL

REYKJAVÍK COCKTAIL WEEKEND

What: A celebration of 27 years of beer freedom with a four-day festival starring the best of the Icelandic beer trade along with a few North American and Danish ones as well (along with some great food). Kex Hostel’s gastropub, Sæmundur í sparifötunum, will offer a beer-orientated menu for the duration of the festival and local breweries will introduce their products and methods. Festival passes will give you access to the festival where you can taste the festival beers and give you an intimate access to the people behind the beers. Also included is access to an exclusive final event in the city of Reykjavík that’ll include live music, exclusive beers and a beer-oriented menu. Festival pass includes tasting of all beers at the festival, meet and greet with the people behind the beers, workshop, live music, tote bag, beer coasters, bar snacks and more. Participating at the festival this year are 6 international breweries and 8 Icelandic breweries.

What: The Icelandic bartender’s association (IBA) presents, in collaboration with leading restaurants, bars and night clubs, the annual Reykjavík Cocktail Weekend. During the festival, select restaurants, bars and night clubs will offer a special cocktail menu. it ends with the finals of the Icelandic bartender tournament as well as a competition between restaurants in cocktail making. Over 40 establishments take part this year and they will offer excellent program over the festivities at their respected locations. The program will be announced in the upcoming days.

Why: Because beer is awesome. Where: KEX Hostel (along with a few other venues) When: Wednesday, February 24th – Saturday, February 27th Admission: 9,900 ISK

Why: Because cocktails, that’s why Where: KEX Hostel (along with a few other venues) When: Wednesday, February 24th – Saturday, February 27th Admission: 9,900 ISK

TED X REYKJAVÍK CINEMA WITH MARTYNA DANIEL COME TALK FUNNY What: Every Monday night the Goldengang Comedy collective hosts an open-mic comedy night: Anyone can grab the mic and perform stand-up comedy (in English). Live music is provided before and after the show. The evening is hosted by comedian Gísli Jóhann and happy hour runs from 14:00 – 21:00. Show starts at 21:00. Why: Because the human race has one really effective weapon: laughter. Where: Gaukurinn, Tryggvagata 22, 101 Reykjavík When: Every Monday night at 21:00 Admission: Free

JIMMY CARR AT HÁSKÓLABÍÓ

What: The second TED X Reykjavík Cinema will take place on February 29th at Stúdentakjallarinn. The curator and presenter of the evening will be artist and cinematographer Martyna Daniel. With a strong passion for colors, Martyna’s aesthetic is explosive, bold and raw. Her photographs, films and paintings are inspired by her childhood which was filled with music, flowers and sparkles and an underlying circus atmosphere. The theme of the evening will be art and the importance of art in our community. Martyna will curate a playlist of TED and TED X talks on the subject and will offer us her insights, experience and opinions on the matter. In TED X Reykjavík tradition, the event will be in English so everyone can understand and participate in the discussions.

What: British comedian, television presenter and actor Jimmy Carr is known for his controversial comedy and black humor. The last time he visited Iceland, the comedian performed at four sold-out shows – and now he’s back. Jimmy has often been described as one of the hardest working comedians in show business, which is, when you think about it, not really something to write home about; it’s a little like being the world’s tallest dwarf or the most healthiest citizen of Glasgow. The title of his stand up is Funny Business.

Why: Because discussing art is important Where: Stúdentakjallarinn (University of Iceland) When: Monday, February 29th Admission: Free

Why: Because a day without laughter is a day wasted. Where: Háskólabíó When: Saturday, March 5th, 20:00 Admission: 6,990 ISK

Did your trip to Iceland include Icelandic horses? Hardly anyone can escape the merry magic of this special breed of horses. You don’t have to go far to explore the Icelandic volcanic landscape with its natural hot springs and boiling mud pools on the back of an Icelandic horse. Solhestar, the riding tour operator in Ölfus only 30 min from Reykjavik, offers all year round individual service to give you an unforgettable holiday experience. Take advantage of the pick-up service at your hotel and enjoy your horse riding tour. Sólmundur and Sturla is bursting with ideas. You don’t fancy riding with a group? He will create a personal riding tour for you. Did you ever ride up in the mounten? During summer Sólhestar offers a ride in The hotspring amazing landskape, smelling the dew, enjoying genuine Icelandic snacks and experian the tölt in icelandic nature Or enjoy tour with the fresh sea air in your face while riding along the beach from the fishing town of Þorlákshöfn back to the farm. Sólhestar is a small family business, specialising in customised short riding tours. They can also organise riding tours for groups and longer tours. The dream of tölting on the volcano.

solhestar.is | 8923066 | solhestar@solhestar.is

Can´t catch the Northern Lights? Don´t worry, we have already done it for you

ver

Maritime museum CCP

Hotel Marina

The Northern Light Center

Visit us and experience our multimedia exhibition It's only a ten-minute walk from the city center

The old harbour Harpan Music hall Reykjavík Art museum Kolaportið fleemarket

www.aurorareykjavik.is

Grandagarður 2 - 101 Reykjavík Open every day from 09:00 - 21:00

Food tips

Snaps Egg Norwegian and Friedrich Nietzsche A few days ago, I visited Snaps – and not for the first time. It was not the first time I visited Snaps because Snaps is my go-to brunch place. Every time that I am hungry, at noon, on a weekend, the words “Egg Norwegian” inevitably insinuate themselves into my brain. If you are unfamiliar with Egg Norwegian then allow me to redress your unfamiliarity: Egg Norwegian is not unlike Egg Benedict – with the exception that the waiter serves the dish while crooning along to A-HA’s Take On Me (a Norwegian band). No, that’s not right. I am lying to you. Egg Norwegian is just like Egg Benedict except the bacon has been replaced with smoked salmon. Therefore, Egg Norwegian is comprised of the following ingredients: bread, smoked salmon, a poached egg and Hollandaise sauce – but back to my review … A few days ago I visited Snaps (located on Óðinsgata in downtown Reykjavík) and I ordered Egg Norwegian along with a cup of coffee. As I waited for the dish to arrive, I sat and observed the people while thinking about Friedrich Nietzsche. Nietzsche once gave birth to an idea that was supposed to differentiate between those who live their

lives fully – and those who don’t. He called this idea of his Eternal Recurrence, and it might be explained like this: Imagine that this life that we’re living doesn’t end when we die, but rather recurs eternally – and so each moment that we experience happens over and over again – forever. Those people who are horrified by this idea, who imagine another dull eight-hour day at the office running on some kind of infinite loop, and then grow apprehensive, have not learned to love life, while those people who celebrate this idea – are living life fully, according to Nietzsche. As I contemplated this idea, the waiter set my plate of Egg Norwegian on the table in front of me and I smiled. What followed was expected ecstasy. As I wolfed down my meal, I thought to myself: this moment could repeat itself, over and over again, for all eternity, and it would not bother me in the slightest; I love Egg Norwegian and life too. Also, Nietzsche. If you were wondering. Words: Thomas Jefferson Snodgrass

Castello Freudian Slip I am a regular at Castello pizzeria. Actually, that’s not true: I was a regular at Castello pizzeria – but then I forgot about the place. I forgot about the place as if Castello were an old friend who moved abroad and I – too preoccupied with insignificant, everyday occurences to stay in touch. For many months our friendship was lost and was preserved, only, in our two respective subconsciouses. I would have undoubtedly blurted out the restaurant’s name on my psychologist’s couch, who would have interpreted this Freudian slip as an indication of some underlying psychological knot. And following this psychological excavation of all the skeletons in my closet, I would have raced to the restaurant, apologized for my long absence and fallen into a heartfelt embrace with some open pizza box. But in actuality our reunion was not so dramatic – in actuality, I was just driving through Hafnarfjörður, tired and hungry, when I saw the sign from the road: Castello. At that moment I realized that I had neglected our fruitful friendship for all these months. I had been a bad friend – but regret isn’t helpful; regret is, in actuality, an impractical emotion whereby one paints

over the present with a black brush and greatly increases the chances that one will regret this particular present as well #loselose. But as I was saying … I parked my car, walked inside, greeted the server, a little shamefaced, and ordered the Rucola pizza takeaway. The server did not seem to begrudge me my long absence and prepared the pizza in quick fashion and thanked me for my business: “Thank you, come again.” When I returned home, my friend and I (the pizza) shared a beautiful moment. Together we conquered my hunger and my weariness and discussed many important subjects like the presidential elections in America, Netflix and the temperamental magnetism of Miss Nina Simone. I, a pale human, made mostly of water, and she – a gorgeous pie with Parma ham, Arugula, parmesan and oregano. Castello truly makes a wonderful pie: fire-oven born, tasty and large. Long live Castello – and friendship as well. Words: Ragnar Tómas

Book a table (+354) 562 0200 perlan@perlan.is

The P e gift c arl's ard A gre a all oc t gift for cation s!

Our magnificent 4ra rétta matseðlar 4 course set menu Enjoy a wonderful evening in the Pearl with a 4 course set menu created by multi-awarded master chéfs. MEAT AND FISH

VEGAN

Beef carpaccio beets, mushrooms, pine nuts and parmigiano

Beet carpaccio fennel, watercress, horseradish and pine nuts

Langoustine soup cream, Madeira wine and langoustine

Mushroom consomme ravioli and celeriac

Catch of the day a la chef

Nut steak jerusalem artichoke, red cabbage and rucola

~ or ~ Duck breast duck leg, aubergine, carrot, potato and beurre noisette Milk chocolate mousse mandarin and dark chocolate

Stefán Elí Our master chéf

Almond ice cream date, almond and lemon With every 4 course set menu you get a free aperitif!

Stefán Elí Stefánsson won the culinary contest Goût de France in 2014, and has worked in Domain de Clairefontaine (1 Michelin star) in France, Hibiscus (2 Michelin stars) in London, been a guest chéf in Ed Auberg (3 Michelin stars) and received the honorary graduation prize in the Icelandic culinary school.

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Design

the timeless

warmth www.arnartr.com

of Iceland

Clutch Purse Design: Scintilla Fun and unique purse for those stylish runs to the store. Made from fine leather and canvas in (available in blue and black). Scintilla is a home textiles company that brings avantgarde ideas from fashion into home decor.

SOI Northern Lights Design: ShankoRugs Wool sitting rug that is soft, durable and damp resistant. Perfect for sitting while roaming the Icelandic wilderness. Sigrun L. Shanko has great respect for Iceland’s rugged landscape, which was her inspiration for ShankoRugs, where fluid forms shift with rich colors in the artist’s unique and timeless hand tufted rugs. www.kaupstadur.is

www.scintilla.is

Varma is dedicated to maintaining Icelandic tradition in developing, designing and manufacturing quality garments and accessories from the best Icelandic wool and sheepskin shearling. Varma is available in various tourist shops around Iceland

Alice’s Licorice Fish Design: Hring eftir hring Porcelain fish pendant on a silver chain, from the designer’s second jewelry collection, the Tea Party (inspired by Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland). Hring eftir hring is the design label of Steinunn Vala Sigfúsdóttir, who has designed three jewelry lines since 2009. www.kaupstadur.is

Berries – Wall Stickers Design: Tulipop Beautiful wall stickers featuring Miss Maddy’s pretty flowers and cherries. The stickers are easily movable and don’t leave any residue in addition to being splash proof and wipeable. Tulipop was created by the product designer Signý Kolbeinsdóttir and the illustrator Helga Árnadóttir. www.kaupstadur.is

Ske

The Most Famous Icelander??? SKE pits two greats against one another As regards the most famous Icelander, there are two obvious candidates: candidate a, having the advantage of a beating heart, may continue to augment her reputation over the next few years (presumably), while candidate b, having been deceased for over a decade, must rest on his laurels permanently and in subterranean fashion. His reputation may only grow by posterity’s biographical embellishments, which is a thing not to be discounted – for it is the means by which the achievements of many

Happy Hour!

You know what time it is Prikið, Bankastræti 12 Mondays – Thursdays from 16:00–20:00 Beer–500 ISK

Vegamót, Vegamótastígur 4 Thursdays – Saturdays from 22:00–01:00 Beer: 750 ISK

ordinary men have ballooned into legend. Moving on:

Wine: 750 ISK

Candidate a’s claim to the title of most famous Icelander

Stofan Café, Aðalstræti 7

rests primarily on the renown of her musical ability: She has sold innumerable records and her fame has infiltrated even the most remote villages of Argentina. Candidate b, less familiar to indigenous Argentinians, had no musical talent to speak of, but was known to speak vigorously

Every day from 16:00–19:00 Beer: 650 ISK Wine: 650 ISK

Kaldi Bar, Laugavegur 20B Every day from 16:00- 19:00 Beer: 650 ISK

Hlemmur Square, Laugavegur 105 All days from 16:00–20:00 Beer: 600 ISK

in favor of Bach – which is to say that his taste in music

Wine: 600 ISK

is altogether predictable. Candidate b’s claim to the

Slippbarinn, Mýrargata 2

title rests primarily on the fact that he was awarded a prestigious Swedish prize for achievement in literature and then accepted said prize with great national pride. Unbeknownst to many, candidate a has also been awarded a Swedish prize, but unfortunately for her, the prestige and reputation of that prize suffers on account of being too closely associated with the music of ABBA

All days from 15:00–18:00 Beer: 500 ISK Wine: 500 ISK

Bar 11, Hverfisgata 18 Thursdays - Saturdays from 21:00–00:00 Beer 500 ISK

Kaffibarinn, Bergstaðastræti 1 Every day from 15:00–20:00 Beer: 650 ISK

Barber Bar, Laugavegur 66-68 Every day from 16:00–19:00 Beer: 650 ISK

(the Polar Music Prize).

Wine: 650 ISK

If you are wondering then we are, of course, referring

Wedensdays - Saturdays from 16:00–21:00 Beer 600 ISK Wine 700 ISK

Loftið, Austurstræti 9

to legendary singer Björk (candidate a) and Nobel-prize winning author Halldór Laxness (candidate b). It is difficult

B5, Bankastræti 5

to say who, out of the two, is more famous, although

Every day from 17:00–20:00 Beer 500 ISK Wine 600 ISK

it is most likely Björk.

Hlemmur Square, Laugavegur 105

SKE cannot stress how important it is that you pick up a book by Laxness and a record by Björk during your stay in Iceland; the spirit of the country resides in their works.

Every day from 16:00–20:00 Beer 600 ISK Wine 600 ISK

Ísafold, Þingholtsstræti 3-5 Every day from 17:00–19:00 Beer 600 ISK Wine 900 ISK

Fashion

Una Valrún

Síta Valrún

Fashion Design Student

Artist & Stylist

2016 Finally, a new year – and a thousand possibilties to start fresh. It is time to take a good look in the mirror and consider the state of things. What am I doing and WHAT AM I WEARING? After having reviewed forecasts about the upcoming 2016 fashion year, I picked out a few things that I especially enjoy and believe in: nude and powdered colors, along with a few strong colors, such as green, deep copper, peach, burgundy and indigo; both seamless and clean designs, embroidered and crocheted, and plenty of bold patterns. I believe in shimmery textures and laced boots; and shoes inspired by slip-in slippers (not the Birkenstock type but the Asianhotel-slippers type); also, undergarments, slinky slip dresses, midi skirts, suits and pants and jacket pairings, Japanese inspired looks, Un-athletic clean sporty looks, sans labels, army-inspired clothing and ankle bracelets. Sometimes we can feel a bit lost when it comes to our own personal style, but all of us have a sense of taste – a kind of thread that has followed us ever since we had an opinion on what to wear in kindergarten or later in life, when we roamed through the Impuls department at H&M (yes, a long time ago) and bought a glitter tank top for all of our saved up pocket money. Personally, and as long as I can remember, I have always been drawn to clothes that are gold, sequined or princess-like in any way. The beginning of a new year is the perfect time to review your own sense of fashion and consider what you want and where you want to go from here. There is some truth to those cliché quotations on Instagram: You can always change and evolve – who you are is entirely up to you. Reinvention is natural and looking back on your style journey is fun and inspiring . I believe in functional chaos. I believe in a holy mixture of things from all directions; I believe in Alchemy, balance and the element of surprise. Personal expression and an experimental approach to fashion is fun. Normcore is boring and it’s dying anyway. On the other hand, it would be fun to match the Fruit of the Loom sweater from its grave with a sequined skirt – or perhaps that forgotten dress in that bag in the basement is perfect underneath that new blazer. I think most of us own a surprising amount of clothing that deserves a second chance, which could get a new lease on life if combined with newer things. This year, I’m going to honor my own personal style as it has evolved through the years. I’m bringing a bag-full of old clothes to the tailor to get them shortened and taken in. That way I am paying my respects to my clothes while saving some money – making it possible for me to purchase those embroidered Japanese choral-colored silk pants from Forte Forte this coming spring. Also, I’m going to find a boyfriend so that I can wear his sweaters. Hopefully, he has a cool leather jacket as well.

– Síta Valrún

Streets of ReykjavĂk streetsofreykjavik.com

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With his legendary concentration and 45 years of experience our Master Watchmaker and renowned craftsman, Gilbert O. Gudjonsson, inspects every single timepiece before it leaves our workshop. All the watches are designed and assembled by hand in Iceland. Only highest quality movements and materials are used to produce the watches and every single detail has been given the time needed for perfection. At JS Watch co. Reykjavik weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re committed to provide a personal quality service and we pride ourselves on the close relationships we have with our customers.

Scan it and learn more! www.jswatch.com

www.gilbert.is

Arctic Adventures

Visit www.adventures.is for additional information.

Arctic Adventures is one of the biggest adventure tour operators in Iceland. Headquartered in Reykjavík (also located in Skaftafell, Ísafjörður, Drumbó and Skagafjörður), the roots of the company stretch back to the first white-water rafting tour in Hvítá, in 1983. Eager to offer others the same memorable adventure, Arctic Adventures was founded and became the first adventure company founded in Iceland. There is no shortage of adventures to be taken: river rafting, snorkeling, glacier hiking, super jeep tours, sea kayaking, diving, snowmobiling, hiking, hot spring hunts, ice climbing and much more.

Wish I Was a Plant: Meditations on What It Means to Be Human It is easy being a plant. A plant has no emotions and suffers no pain. A plant does not sit on the highway, frustrated at the syrup-like loitering of modern traffic, shouting inaudible obscenities at its compatriots through hateful partitions of glass. A plant is rarely in a hurry to get places, but merely goes on photosynthesizing in the sun in a state of green indifference, “conscious” of the fact that it is at the utter mercy of its environment. The plant harbors no ill-feelings towards itself if it fails in its endeavor (photosynthesis, that is). It is relatively easy being an animal. An animal may have emotions and may suffer pain– but an animal has no conception of things like ambition or art or capital. Also an animal has no imagination to speak of; an animal does not despair in front of an empty page, worrying that it shall never write anything meaningful, and that it shall die destitute and alone. The animal knows that it is mostly at the mercy of its environment and follows its instincts and is, furthermore, assured in the reliability of those instincts. If those instincts fail, the animal may suffer pain but it does not lie awake in bed blaming itself while exacerbating its pain with the assistance of its devilish imagination. The animal’s pain is purer – and therefore milder. It is difficult being a man. A man has emotions and suffers pains and is familiar with many dubious concepts like ambition and art and capital (and, sometimes, philosophy) and furthermore – man is endowed with an imagination. Man is entirely dissatisfied with the simple pleasures derived from the natural carrying out his animal functions. Man requires something more exalted. Man invents unattainable goals for himself and then berates himself vigorously when he fails to meet those goals. Also, man is aware that he is mortal and that the Universe is expanding. Very often man must also pay a mortgage. And taxes. There is no moral to this story. Sometimes I wish I was a plant, that’s all.

Visit MĂ˝vatn and experience the geothermal baths.

www.jardbodin.is | tel. 464-4411

Keeping Iceland Warm Since 1926

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