ISSUE 3/2014
Shopping | Restaurants & Cafés | Sights & Places | Things to Do
FREE
WHAT’S ON IN HELSINKI TODAY + MORE TIPS ONLINE
YOUR FREE GUIDE TO THE MOST LIKED SERVICES IN HELSINKI
Dear Guest, Helsinki Design Gu ide is your free gu ide to the most lik services of Helsi ed nki. Shops, restau rants, museums mentioned in thi and cafĂŠs s guide have not paid anything to the guide, but the get in to y have been recom mended by the loc designers, archit al ects, illustrators or photographers . Each location ha s their own numb er to assist you to from our online ma find it gazine and from the maps. For mo stories and curre re tips, nt events like co ncerts and exhib our guide online itio ns , read at www.helsinkide signguide.com We hope this gu ide helps you to make the most of to Helsinki! your visit With best regard
s,
Krista Paloheim o Producer Helsinki Design Gu
ide
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SMIIGO OY | Poh joinen Rautatiekatu
11, 00100 Helsink i | krista@smiigo .com | +358 4
EDITORIAL 4 SHOPPING 8 RESTAURANTS 20 CAFES 34
HELSINKI DESIGN GUIDE
CONTENTS
NIGHTLIFE 46 MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
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TO DO & SEE
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SERVICES 86
Concerts Exhibitions Events Theatre For families
MORE TIPS + WHAT’S ON IN HELSINKI TODAY
www.helsinkidesignguide.com | Helsinki Design Guide is published and distributed by Smiigo Ltd | Editor in chief Ella Aurén, ella@smiigo.com | AD Marina Sepping and Sirkku Liukkonen | Sales and producer Krista Paloheimo, krista@smiigo.com | Maps by Nokia Here here.com | Photographers Ella Aurén, Annina Heino and Marina Sepping | Translated into English by Smiigo | Editing and proofreading Daniel Radice Kokoon Language Services
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HELSINKI DESIGN GUIDE
HELSINKI, dearest!
Welcome to Helsinki!
Helsinki has been chosen to be the best city in the world in many regards. In the summer especially it wakes up after the dark and cold winter and life moves to the streets, parks, shores and islands. Helsinki Design Guide has been created to give you the keys to the creative aspects of this city so that you can find the most liked places and favorites of the locals. We asked several local designers, illustrators, architects and producers for
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their recommendations for their favorite restaurants, shopping places, cafes, and galleries, as well as the most relaxing or fun things to do in the summer in Helsinki.
We also asked what makes Helsinki the place it is; listed here are some of the answers we received:
find more stories, faces and places at helsinkidesignguide.com
1 ”The people make the city. Helsinki is full of young, highly educated, interesting, international …and brutally honest people that truly make this place special.”
4 COMPACT SIZE
Adam Rowe, Founder of Laser Cut Studio In the following pages, we will introduce some of these people to you, and they in turn will introduce their favorite places in this city.
3 FRESH
2 EVENTS ”Maybe the DIY-events like Restaurant Day and Cleaning Day (Siivouspäivä). People just love to get organized and be creative, once they are given the chance - and technology.” Pauliina Seppälä, Producer of Yhteismaa To get to know what is going on in Helsinki right now, take a look at our online magazine helsinkidesignguide.com/ whats-on.
”I really enjoy a lot the compact size of Helsinki. All you need is accessible just a short journey away. I love to travel, but is always lovely to come back to Helsinki.”
HELSINKI DESIGN GUIDE
PEOPLE
Miia Magia, Jewellery Designer
”Helsinki is a lovely, compactly-sized, small, great city. Its short history as a cosmopolitan city and a slight geographical isolation give a feeling that new ideas just waiting to be discovered are brewing under the surface all the time.” Tytti Lindström, Jewellery Designer
5 GETTING TO PLACES ”The best thing about Helsinki: Public transport. I’m particularly fond of the trams.” Kristina Lönnberg, Founder of Tingeling On page 88–89 you can read more about public transport in Helsinki!
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6 HELSINKI DESIGN GUIDE
AVAILABILITY ”The shoreline of Helsinki is definitely one of the best paths for cycling, running or walking. Start in cosy Lauttasaari forests, cross to the rough Jätkäsaari harbour, to Hietalahti square, then to the elite Kaivopuisto area with its small cafes, to Kauppatori market square, to the eastern harbour areas, Suvilahti festival site and Kalasatama new district. If you are on a bike, continue even further on the green shores along the metro line towards Vuosaari. There you can jump in the metro to get back to the centre. The route gives a really good overview of how the sea has influenced the development of Helsinki. Almost every strip of the shoreline is open to the public. This is a policy of Helsinki City which describes well the Finnish mentality: the most beautiful locations of the city should be open to everyone.” Hilla Rudanko + Anssi Kankkunen, Architects Looking for things to do and see in Helsinki? Find what you are looking for on pages 72-85.
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7 SEA AND ISLANDS ”Nature and proximity to the water is characteristic of, and unique to, Helsinki. The countless small islands, Suomenlinna, Esplanade Park, Hakaniemi market, all of these bring nature and the sea close and make everyday life more harmonious and relaxed.”
SAUNA
Jukka Savolainen, Director of Design Museum
Susanna Vento, Interior Decorator
How to get to the UNESCO world heritage site of Suomenlinna? Find out on page 76–79.
8 ”Helsinki public saunas bring the joy of bathing to every city dweller.”
UNIQUE
9 NATURE ”The most typical characteristic of Helsinki is nature. I don’t know any other capital city where there is so much nature in the city - parks, birds, hares and foxes. Another amazing characteristic is the sea all around the city. There are so many confused visitors wondering whether it is a river or a lake. No, Dear, it is the Baltic sea!”
”Helsinki is easy and enjoyable to experience and it also has a kind of slavic edge to it. That edge is what separates it from other Nordic capitals.”
HELSINKI DESIGN GUIDE
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Piia Hänninen, Fashion Designer
Ivanda Jansone, Graphic Designer and Illustrator
There you go! Now you already know Helsinki a bit better! Find more tips, stories and places to visit from the following pages, plus there’s a lot more to be found in our online magazine helsinkidesignguide.com I hope you enjoy your stay!
Ella Aurén Editor in chief, Helsinki Design Guide
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SHOPPING
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SHOPPING
FIND MORE TIPS ONLINE
RECOMMENDED BY TYTTI LINDSTRÖM
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How to shop like a local?
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MAP OF SHOPPING
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SHOPPING
Tytti Lindstrรถm Finnish designer Tytti Lindstrรถm creates unique and distinctive pieces of jewellery. Her collections of jewellery present themes of variability and movement, with characteristic features of delicate, string-like silver and moving structures within. Most of the jewellery is made of sterling silver which is often combined with wood, leather, glass or ceramics. Tytti creates jewellery by always keeping her senses alert and traces the similarities and differences between the concepts of jewellery, accessories and clothing.
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SHOPPING
TYTTI LINDSTRÖM RECOMMENDS:
MadeBy Helsinki Katariinankatu 4, 00170 Helsinki, Tel. +358 45 3196171 madeby.fi
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“Full of fresh ideas and creativity, in forms of products as well as workshops.”
Other favourites of Tytti Lindström: 95
TurnTable page 31
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mbar page 52
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Sokerileipuri Suominen page 37
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Amos Anderson Art Museum page 68
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HOW TO SHOP LIKE A LOCAL? SHOPPING
Closeness to nature and DIY culture influence Helsinki’s shopping scene. Craftsmanship becomes a trend once in every generation, and that is the time when Grandma’s tips come in handy. With self-made products or those produced by local artisans you can make sure there is quality in both the materials and the design. Upcycling, recycling and re-making are part of the culture of ecological and ethical values in today’s urban Helsinki. With food as well as other products, Finns are traditionally very particular about their origin. Finns value locally-sourced, homegrown products, and good design. For Helsinki residents, proximity to nature is a given. There are many Finns who still pick berries or mushrooms from the forests, or fish for themselves. In Helsinki you can find products of nature fresh every day in the market places and indoor market halls. Next to you in the train is a lady knitting woollen socks. Before the film starts, in a row above you, a young lad is crocheting a beanie. Remake sewing workshops and flea markets organised by fashion bloggers are sold out. The father of your new local
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acquaintance has build their summer cottage all by himself. Finns have a strong culture of making things. Helsinki has a lot of shops where you can pick up materials and ideas. In addition, there are stores where you can find products made by local designers and artisans. In many cases, the materials or inspiration for these products comes from nature. Wool, wood, linen, leather, bark, birch bark, stone, ceramics and glass are typical materials for Finnish design. On the following pages you will find plenty of shopping place recommendations where you can either pick up souvenirs or just let your creativity run wild.
AT INDOOR & OUTDOOR MARKETS 243
Hakaniemen halli
“Great ingredients, fantastic service and on top of it all, a wonderful atmosphere. The farmer’s market just outside the market hall every first Sunday of the month is highly recommendable too.” Kristina Lönnberg, Founder of Tingeling
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SHOPPING
Hämeentie 1 A hakaniemenkauppahalli.fi
Wanha Kauppahalli
Market Square, Eteläranta wanhakauppahalli.com “After long renovation, the oldest market hall in Finland with its special atmosphere has now re-opened! Cafes, groceries, souvenirs,..” Editor’s Choice
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Hietalahden kauppahalli
Lönnrotinkatu 34 hietalahdenkauppahalli.fi “For novelty’s sake but also for the atmosphere. And there are many nice lunch places.“ Inni Pärnänen, Jewellery Designer
find more stories, faces and places at helsinkidesignguide.com
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SECOND HAND & VINTAGE FASHION 668
Frida Marina
SHOPPING
Kaarlenkatu 10 vintage-mango.com/ frida-marina.html “Absolutely! Recycling glory!” Ulrika Hannula, Barista
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Kaivarin Kanuuna
Merikatu 3 Tel. +358 400 388400 www.kaivarinkanuuna.fi “A big self-service flea market at this posh but beautiful neighborhood Kaivopuisto. All the clothes are clean and fresh, and the place is nice and big.“ Pauliina Seppälä, Producer at Yhteismaa
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Flea markets: UFF
Fredrikinkatu 36, Hämeentie 4, Iso Roobertinkatu 4-6, Runeberginkatu 4 uff.fi “Here you can find anything that people in Finland have worn at different times, very new and very old clothes.” Rudanko & Kankkunen, Architects
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find more stories, faces and places at helsinkidesignguide.com
Papershop
Fredrikinkatu 18 Tel. +358 45 359 9319 papershop.fi “Together with good feeling one always finds something small to get.” Aleksi Kuokka, Designer
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SHOPPING
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© Papershop
SHOPPING FOR CREATIVE BEINGS
Fargo Vintage
Fleminginkatu 20 Tel. +358 44 5437750 “Fargo sells vintage and old clothing, furniture and LP’s. Good selection for reasonable prices.” Ivanda Jansone, Designer
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Stupido-Shop Record Store & Café
Helsinginkatu 16 Tel. +358 9 646 990 stupido.fi “The city’s best record store from where you get coffee along with expert service!” Suvi Kallio, Managing director at Flow Festival
find more stories, faces and places at helsinkidesignguide.com
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DESIGN FROM FINLAND 26
Design Forum Shop
Erottajankatu 7 Tel. +358 96 2208130 designforum.fi
SHOPPING
“Represents dozens of Finnish designers and from there you will find both classic interior design and the latest accessories fresh from the makers.”
© Artek 2nd cycle
Miia Magia, Jewellery Designer
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Artek 2nd Cycle
Pieni Roobertinkatu 4–6 Tel. +358 50 595 9262 artek.fi “All treasures of Finnish design in one lovcation, always new interesting things to see with permission to touch, try and deam and fine knowledgeable staff.” Aleksi Kuokka, Designer
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Salakauppa
Postikatu 1 Tel. +358 50 538 7407 salakauppa.fi “A shop set in an old glass flower kiosk selling interior decoration, clothing and accessories, which combine traditional Finnish handicraft skills, art, and contemporary design.” Susanna Vento, Decorating Editor
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find more stories, faces and places at helsinkidesignguide.com
Sweetheart
Uudenmaankatu 32 Tel. +358 44 276 0672 sweetheart.fi “Wonderful selection of all kind of sweet treats full-filling all childhood dreams.” Annina Heino, Photographer
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SHOPPING
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© Sweetheart
EDITOR’S CHOICE
Tingeling
Yrjönkatu 34, 00100 Tel. +358 44 0311336 tingeling.fi/in-english/ “A specialised toy store and gift shop with focus on wooden, well designed toys and playroom decor. Classic, fun and safe toys that last from one generation to the next!” Editor’s Choice
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Nudge
Yrjönkatu 30 Tel. +358 45 2300 525 nudge.fi “A creative co-operative shop selling ecological and ethical clothing and accessories for women and men, organic cotton clothes for kids, high quality natural cosmetics, home wear and design mainly from Finnish designers.“ Editor’s Choice
find more stories, faces and places at helsinkidesignguide.com
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SHOPPING
ON THE MAP: 26
Design Forum Shop Erottajankatu 7
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Artek 2nd Cycle Pieni Roobertinkatu 4-6
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Wanha kauppahalli Eteläranta
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Salakauppa Postikatu 1
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Nudge Yrjönkatu 30
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Hakaniemen halli Hämeentie 1 A
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Hietalahden kauppahalli Lönnrotinkatu 34
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Papershop Fredrikinkatu 18
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Flea markets: UFF Fredrikinkatu 36, Iso Roobertinkatu 4-6, Runeberginkatu 4, Hämeentie 4
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Sweetheart Uudenmaankatu 32
673
MadeBy Helsinki Katariinankatu 4
682
Tingeling Yrjönkatu 34
581
NOT ON THE MAP: 129
Kaivarin Kanuuna Merikatu 3
171
Stupido-Shop Record Store & Café Helsinginkatu 16
668
Frida Marina Kaarlenkatu 10
416 18
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SHOPPING
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673 682 194
31 581
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28
622 417
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RESTAURANTS
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RESTAURANTS
FIND MORE TIPS ONLINE
RECOMMENDED BY STUBA NIKULA
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FOR BREAKFAST, BRUNCH OR LUNCH?
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Which restaurants represent best Helsinki from a design point of view?
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MAP OF RESTAURANTS
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RESTAURANTS
Stuba Nikula Stuba Nikula is a new kind of urban culture connoisseur, and he also has a good nose for what is coming in the near-future culture. In his work as the city’s cultural director, he aims to ensure that culture is understood more as a comprehensive service throughout the city, and that the residents of the city can be producers as well as consumers of culture. In Mr. Nicola’s opinion the best new cultural events such as the popular Restaurant Day are born from the interests and passion of individuals and the networking opportunities that the new information technologies provide.
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© Atelje Finne
RESTAURANTS
STUBA NIKULA RECOMMENDS:
Ateljé Finne Arkadiankatu 14 Tel. +358 10 281 8242; ateljefinne.fi
“Here food, the vibe and some unspecified way of Finnish culture are the best as an entity.”
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Other favourites of Stuba Nikula: 113
Sis.Deli page 41
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Siltanen page 53
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Kaiku page 49
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Island of Lonna page 82
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RESTAURANTS
BREAKFAST, BRUNCH, LUNCH OR DINNER? Finnish cuisine is an entity of unique, wide-ranging and lively flavours that derive from Finnish nature, history and society. Traditional Finnish food has been influenced by the cuisine of continental Europe and Sweden. Additionally, a common history with Russia adds to its charm and distinguishes Finnish food from other Nordic countries like Sweden or Norway.
Finns have also been fast in adopting flavours and dishes from all over the world, which is great in a country where about fifty years ago the potato was far more well-known than pasta, and fresh oranges were still a rare treat. In contrast, today in Helsinki you can find a wide range of ethnic food restaurants.
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In general, Finnish food is kept simple, clean and respectful of the raw ingredients’ flavours. In their daily choices Finns keep creating new food culture. Today’s popular trends are health, ecology and ethics. Organic and locally produced ingredients are highly valued. Restaurants in Helsinki are not just following these trends, but are
RESTAURANTS taking a leading role in forming our food culture. A lot of attention is paid to the quality and origin of the ingredients that are used. At home during the week the main point is often to prepare something simple and quick, as most mothers work and children have a lot of after school activities. Then during the weekend families can gather and spend more time on shopping for groceries, preparing the food, cooking and baking. Finns eat their lunch relatively early, traditionally between 11 and 1. Both dinner and lunch are warm meals, but one of them is usually a bit lighter, a salad or soup for example. Many Finnish employers give their workers lunch vouchers, which is why most restaurants have affordable lunch offers around noon. In the summer food produced or gathered locally takes a leading role in the Finnish kitchen. A meal of new summer
potatoes, salad and fish gets every Finn excited, and is the favourite summer meal. Barbeques are taken out into the garden. In Helsinki markets are filled with berries, mushrooms, peas and other produce picked from forests and gardens. All Finns would agree that there is no better taste than that of a freshly picked Finnish strawberry.
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A BURRITO, A BURGER OR A SANDWICH? 675
Cholo, Mexican street kitchen
RESTAURANTS
Lönnrotinkatu 9 cholo.fi “Street food is huge in Helsinki now and the amount of authentic international high quality kitchens opening up around the city is increasing all the time.” Adam Rowe, Founder of Laser Cut Studio
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Roslund
Hietaniemi Market Hall: Lönnrotinkatu 34 Tel. +358 20 755 9890 “At Hietalahti market hall we eat often at Roslund butchers shop, they serve the best hamburgers in town.” Rudanko+Kankkunen, Architects
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Street Gastro
Albertinkatu 36 Tel. +358 40 705 9610, Vaasankatu 13 Tel. +358 44 705 9990, streetgastro.fi “The trendsetter of Helsinki street food.” Suvi Kallio, Managing Director at Flow Festival
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find more stories, faces and places at helsinkidesignguide.com
SIT DOWN FOR SOME GOOD LUNCH 678
Tori
RESTAURANTS
Punavuorenkatu 2 Tel. +358 9 6874 3790 ravintolatori.fi/punavuori “Relaxed athmosphere, combined to good quality food is the thing. It is both for hipsters and families. Everyone.” Pauliina Seppälä, Producer
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Pompier
Albertinkatu 29 Tel. +358 9 663301 pompier.fi “A really nice place for lunch situated just next to our office.”
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Sea Horse
Kapteeninkatu 11 Tel. +358 9 628 169 seahorse.fi
© Sea Horse
Rudanko + Kankkunen, Architects
“Continuation of the decades, the basic things without any unnecessary gimmicks, stylish interior.” Timo Cantell, Research Director
find more stories, faces and places at helsinkidesignguide.com
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© Kuurna
ENJOY FINNISH FINE DINING 136
Kuurna
Meritullinkatu 6 Tel. +358 10 281 8241
RESTAURANTS
“For intimate three course dinner.”
© Savoy
Suvi Kallio, Managing Director at Flow Festival
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Savoy
Eteläesplanadi 14 Tel. +358 9 6128 5300 ravintolasavoy.fi “Because of the historical sense, and in addition its central location and great views over the city.” Mari Moilanen, somethingtasty.fi
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Bronda
Eteläesplanadi 20 Tel. +358 10 322 9388 ravintolabronda.fi “Already charmed me while I was marveling at it behind the window. Stunning decor and the whole ensemble, not to mention good quality food.” Miia Magia, Jewellery Designer
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find more stories, faces and places at helsinkidesignguide.com
ENJOY FINNISH FINE DINING 188
Juuri
Korkeavuorenkatu 27 Tel. +358 9 635 732 juuri.fi
RESTAURANTS
“An excellent example of contemporary Finnish food culture. Flavors and dishes from fresh ingredients that rely on a strong tradition, served in a new way.”
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Kolme Kruunua
Liisankatu 5 Tel. +358 9 135 4172 kolmekruunua.fi
© Kolme Kruunua
Jukka Savolainen, Museum Director at Design Museum
“A timeless classic that is also one of the first restaurants in Helsinki where I remember’ve visited. Unchanged in a good way, a relaxed correct service and of course great food.”
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Restaurant Luomo and Pure Bistro
Katariinankatu 1 (2nd floor) Tel. +358 9 135 7287, luomo.fi, Pohjoisesplanadi 9, purebistro.fi
© Pure Bistro
Janne Suhonen, Photographer
“Contemporary and innovative food made from Finnish ingredients from small producers. Not forgetting good service. Thank you! I feel very moved when eating in these two.” Kristina Lönnberg, Founder of Tingeling
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TIME TO HAVE SOME ASIAN FOOD 203
Lemon Grass
RESTAURANTS
Kolmas linja 12 Tel. +358 50 400 3372 “Very tasty Thai food, always fresh and spiced perfectly.” Ivanda Jansone, Designer
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Hoshito
Mäkelänkatu 22 Tel. +358 50 432 5063 hoshito.fi “Delicious Japanese food, and the portions are just the right size.” Arni Aromaa, Creative Director, Pentagon Design
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Farang
Ainonkatu 3 Tel. +358 10 322 9380 farang.fi “For a really wonderful detaildesigned dinner experience, head to Farang in the beautiful Taidehalli building. It is not Finnish food, but East Asian food cooked by Finnish chefs.” Rudanko + Kankkunen, Architects
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find more stories, faces and places at helsinkidesignguide.com
CURIOUS DESTINATIONS 95
TurnTable
“During the summer at this urban garden one can enjoy a weekend brunch and get acquainted with new urban culture in accordance of sustainable development.” Tytti Lindström, Jewellery Designer
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RESTAURANTS
Tallikatu kaantopoyta.fi
Kellohalli
Työpajankatu 2 teurastamo.com “Location of many interesting events.” Marianne Isotalus, Founder of Sweetheart
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Restaurant Suomenlinnan Panimo
Suomenlinna c 1 Tel. +358 9 228 5030 panimoravintola.fi “Brewery restaurant serving handcrafted beers and delicious food, located just beside the main dock in Suomenlinna.” Editor’s choice
find more stories, faces and places at helsinkidesignguide.com
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RESTAURANTS
ON THE MAP:
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Ateljé Finne Arkadiankatu 14
136
Kuurna Meritullinkatu 6
188
Juuri Korkeavuorenkatu 27
315
Restaurant Luomo and Pure Bistro Pohjoisesplanadi 9
370
Savoy Eteläesplanadi 14
426
Kolme Kruunua Liisankatu 5
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Sea Horse Kapteeninkatu 11
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Cholo Lönnrotinkatu 9
676
Roslund (Hietaniemi Market Hall) Lönnrotinkatu 34
677
Street Gastro
678
Tori Punavuorenkatu 2
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Albertinkatu 36 , Vaasankatu 13 (not on the map)
679
Pompier Albertinkatu 29
680
Bronda Eteläesplanadi 20
681
Farang Ainonkatu 3
NOT ON THE MAP:
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681
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TurnTable Tallikatu
139
Hoshito Mäkelänkatu 22
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Lemon Grass Kolmas linja 12
603
Restaurant Suomenlinnan panimo Suomenlinna c 1
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Kellohalli Työpajankatu 2
679 677
676
RESTAURANTS
426
136
315
680
675
370
188
678
429
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CAFES
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CAFES
FIND MORE TIPS ONLINE
RECOMMENDED BY KRISTINA LÖNNBERG
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FINNISH COFFEE DESIGN
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Which cafés best represent the coffee culture of Helsinki?
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MAP OF CAFES
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CAFES
Kristina Lönnberg Kristina Lönnberg has a way of creating warm, inspiring and beautiful environments. Her Tingeling Toy Shop is a toy and gift shop specialising in wooden toys, fair trade products, and small manufacturers. Ms. Lönnberg is a pedagogy and early childhood professional. This you can also see in the quality of the store’s toys, which inspire learning, studying, and doing things together in the family. Timelessness, beauty, durability, safety, and joy would be good words to describe Tingeling.
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CAFES
KRISTINA LÖNNBERG RECOMMENDS:
Sokerileipuri Suominen Helenankatu 2 Tel. +358 40 757 3357 sokerileipurisuominen.com
683
“Situated in the Torikorttelitarea in a historical building. Wonderful home made sweet and savory snacks and good service. Special thanks for gluten free options!”
Other favourites of Kristina Lönnberg: 243
Hakaniemen halli page 13
315
Restaurant Luomo and Pure Bistro page 29
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Sinebrychoff Art Museum page 68
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Uunisaari page 82
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FINNISH COFFEE DESIGN CAFES
How do Finns take their coffee? When a Finn wakes up in the morning, the first thing that enters their mind normally has to do with coffee. Before their eyes are fully open, they have turned the coffee machine on. At work places in Finland, there is a daily obligatory coffee break provided for by law. For Finns coffee seems to be the elixir of life. Finnish people drink more coffee per capita than any other nation. But what kind of coffee culture does Finland have? When a Finn wakes up in the morning, the first thing that enters their mind normally has to do with coffee. Before their eyes are fully open, they have turned the coffee machine on. At work places in Finland, there is a daily obligatory coffee break provided for by law. For Finns coffee seems to be the elixir of life. Finnish people drink more coffee per capita than any other nation. But what kind of coffee culture does Finland have? With or without milk? Sugar or no sugar? The traditional Finnish way of
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enjoying coffee is a small cup of black filter coffee. Though grandmother would have it with cream and sugar. Now it’s more popular to have it with varying amounts of foamed milk, be it skimmed, low-lactose, soy or almond milk. Also filter coffees and methods for their preparation have come a long way; there are three preparation options these days: aeropress, chemex, and siphon. In Helsinki cafes are passionate about the quality of the coffee experience. These coffee specialists travel to the coffee
CAFES growing areas to visit the farmers who produce their coffee and choose with their help the best beans, which are then roasted and ground for us. Roasting, grounding and pouring the coffee into the cup are a form of art and science that together make producing and enjoying coffee a real experience. In Helsinki many of the coffee roasters, baristas, and cafe owners know each other and work together to create new products and experiences. They also organise and take part in competitions where they compete at discerning coffee quality and decorating lattes with milk foam And what to have with your coffee? Some like it just by itself, but it’s also great with many different freshly baked goods. In the Helsinki cafes you will find everything, from croissants to macarons and raw food cakes, but the iconic Finnish companion for coffee is pulla.
Pulla is a sweet cinnamon and/or cardamom flavoured bun, that comes in many shapes and sizes. There are voisilmäpulla (with a blob of sugar and butter on top), toscapulla (topped with almond flakes, sugar and butter) or hillopulla (with berry jam). When it comes to pulla, the taste speaks for itself. On the following pages you will find some excellent recommendations for the best coffee and pulla places in Helsinki!
For more stories and tips about Helsinki cafes, just visit helsinkidesignguide.com
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CAFES
© Johan & Nyström
COFFEE ROASTERIES OF HELSINKI 13
Johan & Nyström
Kanavaranta 7 C Tel. +358 40 661 9696 johanochnystrom.fi “Coffee has always been popular in Helsinki, but now its going through a renaissance, with coffee experts opening small independent small lovingly decorated coffee shops to give Helsinki super high quality expertly prepared coffee.” Adam Rowe, Laser Cut Studio
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Good Life Coffee
Vilhonvuorenkatu 7-9 Kolmas Linja 17 Tel. +358 50 380 8961 goodlifecoffee.fi “Good coffee, good vibes.” Anniina Nurmi, Fashion Designer at NurmiClothing
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Helsingin kahvipaahtimo
Päijänteentie 29 Tel. +358 40 678 1307 helsinginkahvipaahtimo.com “Located in Vallila, Helsingin kahvipaahtimo roasts you great coffee to take-away or to enjoy in their small roughly decorated café.” Susanna Vento, Decorating Editor
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find more stories, faces and places at helsinkidesignguide.com
FOR BREAKFAST OR LUNCH 113
SIS. Deli+Café
“World-class cafe experience made Finnish by women entrepreneurs.” Stuba Nikula, Cultural Director of Helsinki
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CAFES
Pursimiehenkatu 7, Kalevankatu 4, Korkeavuorenkatu 6 Tel. +358 10 422 9300 sisdeli.fi
Köket
Aleksanterinkatu 12 Tel. +358 440 12 77 07 cafekoket.fi “Cosy and good. DYI interior design, and of course a really nice surroundings in the old Helsinki quarters. Of course they also have brunches, which seems to be the thing these days.” Pauliina Seppälä, Producer
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Fratello Torrefazione
Yliopistonkatu 6 Tel. +358 9 4289 1887 fratello.fi “Delicious, weekly changing à la carte lunch menu and great coffees made by lovely baristas. Try the iced coffees, siphon coffee or risotto of the day!” Editor’s Choice
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SEASIDE ATMOSPHERE AND GREAT VIEW 14
Regatta
CAFES
Merikannontie 10 Tel. +358 40 0760049 “Located on the seafront in a red cottage and they have lovely cinnamon rolls.” Marianne Isotalus, Founder of Sweetheart
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Tamminiementie Café
Tamminiementie 8 Tel. +358 9 481 003 villaangelica.fi “The best huge cinnamon buns, which are a Finnish favourite. Visit can be combined to a walk in the Seurasaari island outdoor museum. The museum is free full-year round and consists of ancient Finnish houses, transported from different corners of the country.” Rudanko+Kankkunen, Architects
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Ihana Kahvila
Nihtikuja Tel. +358 45 846 7822 ihanakahvila.fi “Absolute urban cycling destination at a summer. Interesting to see how Sompasaari cargo port will change little by little, to a residential area 20 000 inhabitants.” Suvi Kallio, Managing Director at Flow Festival
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Café Ekberg
Bulevardi 9 Tel. +358 9 6811 8660 cafeekberg.fi
© Café Ekberg
SOMETHING SWEET TO EAT
CAFES
“Unmatched gem that offers a fantastic setting and a touch of history and the best flavors.”
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Chjoko
Liisankatu 9 Tel. +358 400 199 868 chjoko.com
© Chjoko
Jukka Savolainen, Museum Director at Design Museum
“They produce handmade chocolate & cakes, tasty & simply concept.” Piia Hänninen, Fashion Designer
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Cafe Aquamarine
Uudenmaankatu 19–21 Tel. +358 40 773 2272 “A new discovery: a tiny cafe filled with neighborhood people having Finland’s best korvapuusti!” Martti Kalliala, Architect
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CAFES
ON THE MAP: 9
Ekberg Bulevardi 9
11
Fratello Torrefazione Yliopistonkatu 6
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Johan & Nyström Kanavaranta 7C
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Good Life Coffee Kolmas Linja 17
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SIS. Deli+ Café Kalevankatu 4, Korkeavuorenkatu 6, Pursimiehenkatu 7
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Ihana Kahvila Nihtikuja
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Cafe Aquamarine Uudenmaankatu 19-21
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Köket Aleksanterinkatu 12
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Chjoko Liisankatu 9
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Sokerileipuri Suominen Helenankatu 2
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NOT ON THE MAP: 14
Cafe Regatta Merikannontie 10
16
Good Life Coffee Vilhonvuorenkatu 7-9
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Helsingin kahvipaahtimo Päijänteentie 29
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Tamminiementie Café Tamminiementie 8
9 240
113
44
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CAFES
16
620
11 318
13
683
113
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NIGHTLIFE
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NIGHTLIFE
FIND MORE TIPS ONLINE
RECOMMENDED BY MIIA MAGIA
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A Short story about Finnish beer
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Where should I look for the nightlife of creative Helsinki?
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MAP OF NIGHTLIFE
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NIGHTLIFE
Miia Magia Jewellery designer, dj and make up artist Miia Magia is a young multitalent. The pursuit of perfection is at the heart of her design philosophy. Her jewellery collections flicker with the strength, flexibility, agility, balance and style that made her a successful teenage gymnast and talented dressmaker. The excellence of her approach means that, each piece carries her signature style, which carries the flexibility of marking women out as either softly feminine or more masculine.
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NIGHTLIFE
MIIA MAGIA RECOMMENDS:
Kaiku Kaikukatu4 Tel. +358 45 1111466 clubkaiku.fi
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“Represents the Helsinki nightlife and club culture in an international atmosphere. Music focuses in the electronic dance music genres like house and techno. Performing both Finnish top DJs and timely visitors from abroad.�
Other favourites of Miia Magia: 26
Design Forum Finland page 16
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Bronda page 28
33
mbar page 52
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Kiasma page 67
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Kaivopuisto page 81 49
NIGHTLIFE
A SHORT STORY ABOUT FINNISH BEER “Sniff, sip and enjoy, with good food and good company!”
After the Stone Age farming was established on the shores of the Gulf of Finland, and with this came the skill of brewing. Finnish brewing thus has a three thousand year history. Good beer-making requires a great deal of know-how, because, unlike wine, beer does not just happen. Beer brewing methods have evolved over the years through many experiments and different influences. Finnish beer culture has, for example, been influenced a lot by
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the Germanic peoples of the Baltic Sea. In Finland during the Middle Ages, peasants were ordered to cultivate hops. Finland became the hops treasury of the Kingdom of Sweden. Finnish beer had a very good reputation so Swedish kings ordered it in large quantities for the court in Stockholm. Helsinki’s first brewery was established on the island of Suomenlinna, where there is still a brewery to this day. In the late 1800s a new technology revolutionized the
NIGHTLIFE Š Teerenpeli
production of beer, and small breweries were established around the country. At the same time, the temperance movement arose and gathered political strength to the point where the first Finnish parliament decided in October 1907 to introduce a prohibition law. Because of the prohibition law, many Finns began to drink strong spirits instead of beer, and smuggling flourished. The law did not sober the nation. Finally in 1931 the Prohibition was repealed. Restrictive alcohol laws however still remained firm. Finnish beer culture began a new boom in the 1980s. In the early 1990s new microbreweries were set up again, and Finland’s entrance into the EU in 1995 led to a loosening of the statecontrolled production of alcoholic beverages and import monopoly. Now in 2014, Finland has a vibrant beer culture. Restaurants specialising in beer are everywhere. Their selection is diverse and very international. A current favourite is
called India Pale Ale, or IPA. Before this the top beer was a wheat beer and before that the Czech. And new microbreweries are popping up all the time. Behind the growth is both the growing demand and also a bold spirit of enterprise. Microbrewers greatest wish at the moment is to have the right to sell their beers directly from the brewery to the customers. In Helsinki you can explore fine beers made on the premises, for example in two particularly charming brewery restaurants: Restaurant Suomenlinnan Panimo (see the map p. 57 and 79) and Bryggeri Helsinki (p. 57). The locations and interiors of both are idyllic, and both provide a good reminder of how brewing is an historic artisan skill that requires deep knowledge and expertise.
Source: HS Teema 2/14 Jussi Rokka; Suomen ylväs juomahistoria
More stories about Helsinki drinks, parties and nightlife from helsinkidesignguide.com
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© Miikka Pirinen
START YOUR EVENING HERE! 684
Sandro
Kolmas linja 17 Tel. +358 9 428 92317 sandro.fi
NIGHTLIFE
“Modern Northern-African restaurant/bar, a meeting place with great international atmosphere ”
© Jan Ahlstedt
Editor’s Choice
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mbar
Mannerheimintie 22-24 Tel. +358-9 612 45420 mbar.fi “The central location and interesting clubs throughout the week. In the summer music can be enjoyed on the courtyard terrace.” Tytti Lindström, Jewellery Designer
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Corona Bar & Billiards
Eerikinkatu 11 Tel. +358 20 1751610 andorra.fi/corona “Corona bar is a classic, relaxed and nice.” Pauliina Seppälä, Producer at Yhteismaa
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DANCE THE NIGHT AWAY 41
Siltanen
Hämeentie 13 B Tel. +358 440 660 530 siltanen.org
NIGHTLIFE
“Interesting people with noise and drinks. Everything you need.”
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Navy Jerry’s
Hietaniemenkatu 4 Tel.+358 45 178 3868 navyjerrys.fi
© Navy Jerry’s
Adam Rowe, Founder of Laser Cut Studio
“If we wanted to have a party night with friends, we would start out with cocktails in our neighbouring Italian bar Milli Miglia and then head to Navy Jerry’s for crazy dancing.” Rudanko+Kankkunen, Architects
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Kuudes linja
Hämeentie 13 Tel. +358 40 539 7599 kuudeslinja.com “Hosts some nice club nights and band nights.” Pauliina Seppälä, Producer
“Respectable!” Stuba Nikula, Cultural Director
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LET THE CHANCE CARRY YOU 686
U. Kaleva
Kalevankatu 3 A Tel. +358 9 680 1372 ukaleva.fi
NIGHTLIFE
“Small, cozy bar. One of the rare places in Finland selling regular tap beer in Iittala beer mugs. In late night bar is so full, people have to be very close to each other, that is untypical for Finns. Great chance to meet and chat with real locals.” Ivan Jansone, Designer
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Cafe Bar No 9 and Uudenmaankatu
Uudenmaankatu 9 Tel. +358 9 621 4059 bar9.net “Helsinki nightlife can be found throughout the core downtown area. Uudenmaankatu and Bar 9 is a good point from where to start the evening.” Jukka Savolainen, Museum Director of Design Museum
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Milli Miglia
Kalevankatu 36
© Milli Miglia
“Rather odd kitsch, but relaxed atmosphere and available also fine wine.”
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Janne Kasperi Suhonen, Photographer
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American Bar
Yrjönkatu 26 Tel. +358 20 1234 800 ravintolatorni.fi
© Jarkko Issukka
GO FOR COCKTAILS
NIGHTLIFE
“We mostly go for cocktails at American Bar in Torni hotel’s basement or Liberty or Death. Those two have the best cocktails in Helsinki!” Rudanko+Kankkunen, Architects
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Liberty or Death
Erottajankatu 5 Tel. +358 40 127 1731 libertyordeath.fi “Here you can find even all the old-fashioned drinks!” Samu-Jussi Koski, Fashion Designer
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A21 Cocktail Lounge
“An exclusive little nook, with upscale atmosphere, helpful hosts, and art of cocktail making with many unique flavors and liquors made from local ingredients like fresh Finnish berries.” Editor’s Choice
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© A21
Annankatu 21 Tel. +358 400 211921 a21.fi/clounge
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NIGHTLIFE
ON THE MAP:
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33
mbar Mannerheimintie 22-24
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Kuudes linja Hämeentie 13
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Siltanen Hämeentie 13 B
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Liberty or Death Erottajankatu 5
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Corona Bar & Billiards Eerikinkatu 11
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A21 Cocktail Lounge Annankatu 21
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Cafe Bar No 9 and Uudenmaankatu Uudenmaakatu 9
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Ferry to Restaurant Suomenlinnan Panimo
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Bryggeri Helsinki Sofiankatu 2
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Kaiku Kaikukatu 4
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Sandro Kolmas linja 17
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Navy Jerry’s Hietaniemenkatu 4
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U. Kaleva Kalevankatu 3 A
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Milli Miglia Kalevankatu 36
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American Bar Yrjönkatu 26
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41 40 684
NIGHTLIFE
674
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688 89
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
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Tove Jansson: illustration, Alice in Wonderland. Tampere Art Museum. Photo: The Finnish National Gallery / Jenni Nurminen
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
FIND MORE TIPS ONLINE
RECOMMENDED BY SUSANNA VENTO
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The 100th Anniversary of TOVE JANSSON
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Which galleries, museums and 66 exhibitions do we recommend? MAP OF MUSEUMS AND GALLERIES
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
Susanna Vento Helsinki-based editor, stylist, and interior designer. Susanna Vento is inspired by all things beautiful. Her designs are as fresh, bright, relaxed and modern as she is herself. Her popular blog, Varpunen, is a beautifully illustrated source of inspiration for minimalist chic, and very functional for everyday life. Her book ‘OK: Omin käsin’ (By Hand), cowritten with Riikka Kantinkoski is a rarity in the Finnish book scene, an enticing modern combination of handicraft and interior design, a book that brings rest to the eyes and work for the hands.
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© Lokal
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
SUSANNA VENTO RECOMMENDS:
Lokal Annankatu 19 Tel. +358 9 684 9818 lokalhelsinki.com
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”This small gallery combines art, design and cafeteria in a sweet way. Home-like, it is a wonderful addition to the alternative gallery scene of Helsinki. If I would now be looking for art for my home, I would buy it from an easygoing and easy to approach place like Lokal.”
Other recommendations by Mrs. Vento: 118 292
Salakauppa page 16
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Cafe Regatta page 42
Helsingin kahvipaahtimo page 40 61
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
THE 100TH ANNIVERSARY OF TOVE JANSSON Before the rise of Angry Birds and the Clash of Clans, Moomins might have been the most well-known Finns in the world. The creator of the Moomin characters, Tove Jansson, is somewhat of a national hero, whose work has influenced generations of Finns. Finnish women are strong, independent, practical and beautiful. So was Tove Jansson. Tove Jansson (1914-2001) was a Finnish writer, painter, Doctor of Arts, cartoonist and comic book artist, best known as the creator of the Moomin characters. Brought up by artistic parents, Jansson studied art from 1930 to 1938 in Stockholm, Helsinki and then Paris. At the same time, she was writing short stories and articles for publication, as well as creating the graphics for book covers and magazines. She kept
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Self-Portrait (1975), photo: Finnish National Gallery/Yehia Eweis, Š Tove Jansson Estate.
working as an artist for the rest of her life, while also continuing to write. Through the stories of bohemian, tolerant and humorous Moomins Jansson also dealt with difficult issues, such as loneliness, inadequacy, alcohol, and death, in a very natural manner. The philosophy of Moomin books has gained also a lot of adult readers. The Moomintroll character was born in Tove Jansson’s imagination
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
© Finnish National Gallery / Yehia Eweisl
in the 1930s. The first drawing of a Moomin Jansson drew on their summer cottage outhouse wall. The first Moomin book is called Småtrollen och den stora översvämningen (Finnish Moomins and the Great Flood), Jansson wrote it during the Winter War, 1939-1940. Fifty years later, Jansson made a new edition of the book preface, in which she explained her motives to become a writer: “During the war winter of 1939 my work had ceased; it seemed quite pointless to try to draw pictures. I guess it makes sense that suddenly I was inspired to write something, something which began with the words “Once upon a time”. It just became a fairy-tale, I just couldn’t help it, but I exonerated myself that I did not include in it princes, princesses or
“It looks rather ordinary," said the Snork. "Unless you consider that a top hat is always somewhat extraordinary, of course.” Tove Jansson, Finn Family Moomintroll
Left: Chair (1968), photo; Finnish National Gallery/ Yehia Eweis, © Tove Jansson Estate. Right: Early Moomin Characters (undated), © Moomin Characters™.
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES small children, but chose instead a cranky character from my cartoons and called it Moomintroll.” Moomin books have been translated into 45 languages. In addition, the Moomin stories have been adapted a number of times for theater, opera, film, television and radio. Jansson was drawing the Moomin comic strip from 1947 to 1961 for Finnish and foreign magazines and comic books, after which her brother Lars continued the
work. At its height in the 1950s the comic strip appeared in more than 40 countries and 60 languages. Tove Jansson always considered herself to be first and foremost a painter. As an artist she was not only multifaceted, but also extremely hard working. Most of Jansson’s paintings are landscapes, interiors and still lifes. Favourite themes are the sea and islands, which she depicts in all her different types of artistic output.
“All things are so very uncertain, and that's exactly what makes me feel reassured.” Tove Jansson, Moominland Midwinter
Above: Party in the City (1947), photo; Finnish National Gallery/Yehia Eweis, © Tove Jansson Estate. Left: Lynx Boa (Self-Portrait) (1942), photo: Finnish National Gallery / Yehia Eweis, © Tove Jansson Estate.
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Tove Jansson, Moominsummer Madness
© Finnish National Gallery / Yehia Eweisl
Jansson created art based on her own life, and real events and peoples can be found in her paintings. Portraits, and especially selfportraits, form an interesting category in the artist’s abundant output; her self-portraits reflect the freedom and independence that were so vital to the artist. To mark the 100th anniversary of the birth of Tove Jansson, Ateneum is hosting a major centenary exhibition presenting her impressive career as an artist, illustrator, political caricaturist, author and creator of the Moomin characters and stories. Ateneum’s exhibition covers all the periods in Jansson’s productive career, including her surrealistic paintings of the 1930s, modernist art of the 1950s and more abstract works in the 1960s and ‘70s, as well as her satirical anti-war illustrations
for the magazine Garm, her monumental paintings for public spaces, and of course her enormously popular and internationally renowned Moomin characters and stories. The exhibition is versatile, warm, and interesting, and opens up the world or Jansson’s imagination. It also gives a good picture of the Finnish mindscape.
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
“I'll have to calm down a bit. Or else I'll burst with happiness”
The exhibition at Ateneum is part of the official programme of the Tove Jansson centenary year: www.tove100.com Sources: wikipedia.org/wiki/Tove_Jansson ateneum.fi/en/tove-jansson
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SMALL AND SPECIAL 539
Helsinki City Museum
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
Sofiankatu 4 Tel. +358 9 3103 6630 helsinkicitymuseum.fi “Free entrance, interesting themes.”
© Ilkka Halso
Timo Cantell, Research Director
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The Finnish Museum of Photography
Tallberginkatu 1 Tel. +358 9 6866360 valokuvataiteenmuseo.fi “Summer season are dedicated to ecological issues. There are two exhibitions making dialog with each other.” Ivanda Jansone, Designer
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Suomenlinna Toy Museum
Suomenlinna C 66 lelumuseo.fi “Get to know history through these wonderful charactes who have so many touching and funny stories and anecdotes to tell. Must visit!” Editor’s Choice
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MORE THAN A MUSEUM 78
Ateneum Art Museum MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
Kaivokatu 2 Tel. +358 9 61225510 ateneum.fi/en “Definitely Ateneum with Tove Jansson exhibition.“ Piia Hänninen, Fashion Designer Editor’s note: read more from p. 62
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Museum of Contemporary Art Kiasma
Mannerheiminaukio 2 Tel. +358 9 1733 6501 kiasma.fi “Provides visitors interesting exhibi-tions, but also a great opportunity to lunch and visit the bookstore. Good humor art blast in the city center.”
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Espoo Museum of Modern Art EMMA
Ahertajantie 5, 02070 Espoo emma.museum “This interesting museum is renovated into an old book printing plant designed by modernist architect Aarno Ruusuvuori.”
© Ari Karttunen / EMMA
Miia Magia, Jewellery Designer
Rudanko+Kankkunen, Architects
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ART MUSEUMS
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
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Amos Anderson Art Museum
Yrjönkatu 27 Tel. +358 9 6844460 amosanderson.fi “There is a magical atmosphere in these attic spaces, regardless of exhibition. An interesting range of serious and less serious contemporary art.” Tytti Lindström, Jewellery Designer
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Sinebrychoff Art Museum
Bulevardi 40 Tel. +358 294 500 460 sinebrychoffintaidemuseo.fi “Situated in a wealthy family’s former private home on the Boulevard in the centre of the city. Wonderful location next to a popular park and an old brewery building which is linked to the family’s history.” Kristina Lönnberg, Founder of Tingeling
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Kunsthalle Helsinki
Nervanderinkatu 3 Tel. +358 9 4542060 taidehalli.fi “A very beautiful and compact art museum. The building is a 1920s jewel. It is an art experience in itself to walk the stairs of Taidehalli up to the high exhibition hall. Their exhibitions are contemporary and very diverse.” Rudanko+Kankkunen, Architects
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Design Museum
Korkeavuorenkatu 23 Tel. +358 9 622 0540 designmuseum.fi “Overview of the history of Finnish design and interesting temporary exhibitions.” Anniina Nurmi, Designer
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
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© Rauno Traskelin
DESIGN AND ARCHITECTURE FROM HISTORY TO TODAY
Museum of Finnish Architecture
Kasarmikatu 24 Tel. +358 9 8567 5100 mfa.fi “Cross-section of Finnish architecture and interesting temporary exhibitions. The architecture is interesting because we all get to watch it, we wanted to or not.” Marianne Isotalus, Founder of Sweetheart
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Suvilahti Graffiti Wall
Kaasutehtaankatu 1 suvilahti.fi/en/graffiti-wall “Constantly changing graffiti wall in Suvilahti. Art made with joy and love of, always on the cutting edge.” Ulrika Hannula, Barista
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MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
ON THE MAP: 77
Kiasma Mannerheiminaukio 2
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Ateneum Art Museum Kaivokatu 2
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Museum of Finnish Architecture Kasarmikatu 24
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Amos Anderson Art Museum Yrjรถnkatu 27
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Lokal Annankatu 19
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Kunsthalle Helsinki Nervanderinkatu 3
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Design Museum Korkeavuorenkatu 23
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Helsinki City Museum Sofiankatu 4
691 Sinebrychoff Art Museum Bulevardi 40
NOT ON THE MAP:
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Espoo Museum of Modern Art EMMA Ahertajantie 5, Espoo
606
Suomenlinna Toy Museum Suomenlinna C 66
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The Finnish Museum of Photography Tallberginkatu 1
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Suvilahti Graffiti Wall Kaasutehtaankatu 1
MUSEUMS & GALLERIES
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TO DO & SEE
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TO DO & SEE
FIND MORE TIPS ONLINE
RECOMMENDED BY ADAM ROWE
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VISIT SUOMENLINNA
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Things to do and see
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MAP OF THINGS TO DO AND SEE
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TO DO & SEE
Adam Rowe Adam Rowe 28, from East London. Originally Graduated as a Furniture Designer but quickly set up a successful jewellery company which became especially popular in Finland. After three years Adam moved to Helsinki, selling his original company and starting Laser Cut Studio in the search for new challenges. Two years on Laser Cut studio has become a crucial part of the design and manufacturing industry, providing laser cutting and engraving solutions for Helsinki’s designers and creatives.
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TO DO & SEE
ADAM ROWE RECOMMENDS:
Nearest rocky coastline 692
“Grab some drinks and a towel and head to the nearest rocky coastline in the evening. Enjoy the late evening sun and a quick swim in the sea surround by your friends.”
Other favourites of Adam Rowe: 675
Cholo page 26
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Johan & Nyström page 40
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Siltanen page 53
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VISIT SUOMENLINNA TO DO & SEE
an island with character and many tales to tell Suomenlinna is a maritime fortress located off the coast of Helsinki. Nowadays, the 260-year old fortress is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most popular and fascinating places to visit whilst in Helsinki. Suomenlinna is unique in being both a historical fortress and also a suburb of Helsinki, with 850 residents living on this collection of eight islands. Suomenlinna has a rich history and has played a key role during many turning points in Finland’s history. The island has been owned by both Sweden and Russia as well as Finland. Suomenlinna was built as a sea fortress and naval base during the Swedish era of Finland’s history, in the first half of the 18th century.
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The fortress was then named Sveaborg, rendered phonetically as Viapori in Finnish. During the Russo-Finnish war in 1808 the fortress came under siege, and Viapori surrendered to the Russians. The island then remained a Russian military base under the Russian Imperial Government for 110 years. After Finland gained its
TO DO & SEE independence in 1917, Viapori was soon taken over by the newly founded Finnish government, in 1918, and renamed Suomenlinna. Suomenlinna is historically authentic, consisting of original fortifications and military architecture. Due to its unique history and beautiful nature, the island is an attractive venue for many different events, such as weddings, meetings, conferences, school trips, and weekend picnics. The maritime surroundings of Suomenlinna host a variety of museums, galleries, restaurants, and cafes, as well as an open-air theatre and a beer brewery with a garden. Suomenlinna offers its visitors an opportunity to explore the fortress, relax in the parks and cafés, and enjoy the beautiful archipelago. The best way to fully grasp Suomenlinna is via guided tours.
The Ehrensvärd Society offers walking tours around the fortress in four different languages: Finnish, English, Swedish and Russian. On these tours visitors have the opportunity to hear stories about Suomenlinna’s history, and visit the main sights on the island. Tours are offered daily. The tours start from the Suomenlinna Centre and cost 10,00 Euro for adults and 4,00 Euro for children (free with Helsinkicard). The price also includes entrance to the Ehrensvärd Museum (during the museum opening hours). English tours start daily at 11 a.m., 12:30 p.m and 2:30 p.m. Russian tours start at 12:30 p.m.
You can find more information about tours at suomenlinnatours.com
For more stories and tips about Suomenlinna, just visit helsinkidesignguide.com
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TO DO & SEE
• The Submarine Vesikko, used in World War II, is one of the most fascinating sights in Suomenlinna. Visitors can explore the historical submarine which used to operate dozens of metres below the surface of the sea. This is a dream destination for especially small adventurers of your family. • The Suomenlinna Toy Museum holds a collection of thousands of toys, including dolls, historic teddy bears, and games, with the oldest dating back to the beginning of the 1800s. The toys of the collection are from Finland and thus reflect the Finnish culture and tradition. Of great interest are for example the toys and games of wartime. • The wooden villa also has a charming little Café Samovarbar, which offers delicious tea brewed in the Russian style. The personnel of the museum have a passion for tea, which can be seen in the wide selection of teas in the café. Samovarbar is famous for its apple pie and other homemade pastries. There are also special coffees and good old hot chocolate – with
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whipped cream, naturally. Toy museum is definitely worth a visit. In this museum you learn about history through playful and touching personal stories and anecdotes. The exhibition is full of little details, so take your time. • Café Piper, a summer café located on a small hillock in an English-type garden, offers a grand view onto the Gulf of Finland from its terrace. The site previously hosted two gazebos and a Roman Catholic chapel. Piper offers a soup of the day as well as small snacks, refreshments, beer and wine. Picnic baskets can be ordered upon request. • Last but not least, Restaurant Suomenlinnan Panimo – Brewery of Suomenlinna is open throughout the year. The brewery restaurant offers locally brewed beers and delicious food made with seasonal delicacies, often including fresh fish. Beer and food are also served in the green surroundings of the beer garden.
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Restaurant Suomenlinna Panimo Suomenlinna C1
TO DO & SEE
HSL ferry
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Submarine Vesikko Susisaari Suomenlinna Toy Museum Suomenlinna C 66
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CafĂŠ Piper Suomenlinna C 40
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CafĂŠ Samovarbar Suomenlinna C 40
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Suomenlinna is only accessible by water The Helsinki Regional Transport Authority (HSL) runs a ferry service from Market Square (Kauppatori) to Suomenlinna throughout the year. Before boarding you need to buy a HSL ferry ticket either from the ticket machines or from the market square ferry booth. The ferry ride to the island takes about 20 minutes.
For more stories and tips about Suomenlinna, just visit helsinkidesignguide.com
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SPORTS AND OUTDOORS
TO DO & SEE
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Cycling
“In the summer the very best activity is cycling, that is also the best way to see Helsinki. There are quite good bicycle lines around the town. Go to parks to have a picnic and meet locals.” Ivanda Jansone, Designer
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Walking
“Most relaxing pastime is to walk around town and enjoy the atmosphere, as well as random standstill to museums, galleries and cafes.” Jukka Savolainen, Museum Director of Design Museum
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Swimming
hel.fi/hki/liv/en/sports+facilities/ beaches “In Katajanokka the matt wash pier with swimming stairs; in Eira jump off this concrete pier and climb up the stairs they have there. And in south Lauttasaari you have a wonderful beach with a cafe and lots of playground activity spots” Pauliina Seppälä, Producer
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ATMOSPHERIC PICNIC DESTINATIONS 693
Lammassaari
“Nature hike along the causeway to Lammassaari with picnic at a bird-watching tower.” Suvi Kallio, Managing Director of Flow Festival
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TO DO & SEE
Causeway to Lammassaari starts from Jokisuuntie 00560 Helsinki
Kaivopuisto
“When I want to take a breather for a moment, almost without exception I navigate to the beautiful Kaivopuisto shores for a walk.” Miia Magia, Jewellery Designer
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Esplanade Park
“The small kiosks in the Esplanade Park are historic and beautiful.” Marianne Isotalus, Founder of Sweetheart
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TO DO & SEE
© Suomen Ilmakuva
ARCHIPELAGO 699
Island of Lonna
Ferry to the island from Market Square, Eteläsatama Tel.+358 9 664 664 lonna.fi “I look forward with great interest to the opening of the island of Lonna.” Stuba Nikula, Cultural Director of City of Helsinki
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Uunisaari
Ferry to the island from Kompassitori, Merisatamanranta 2 Tel. +358 9 636870 uunisaari.com “The nicest place to relax in the summer is an island called Uunisaari. It’s like being in the archipelago, right in the city. You can swim and sunbathe and have picnics.”
© Hidden Helsinki
Kristina Lönnberg, Founder of Tingeling
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Kivinokka
Herttoniemi, 00810 Helsinki “I appreciate that i Helsinki the beaches are so available, anyone can find their own little oasis. I recommend cycling and running at the beaches, especially in the evening sun. The center is a great, but also venture into Kivinokka.” Ville Relander, Project Manager of Helsinki
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ARCHITECTURAL TIDBITS 694
Gasometer at Suvilahti
“The finest interior and exterior not bad either.” Stuba Nikula, Cultural Director of City of Helsinki
702
TO DO & SEE
Kaasutehtaankatu 1 suvilahti.fi
Jugend-style buildings of Katajanokka
Luotsikatu, 00160 Helsinki “Beautiful old Jugend-style stone buildings with fantastic details. Nice parks and my own small appartment is in this area too!” Kristina Lönnberg, Founder of Tingeling
173
The Alvar Aalto House
Riihitie 20 Tel. +358 9 481 350 alvaraalto.fi “The home of Alvar Aalto brings the famous architect close to the people. The human-sized scale of this place breathes the seamless union of art, design, architecture and normal life.” Jukka Savolainen, Museum Director at Design Museum
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TO DO & SEE
ON THE MAP: 206
Swimming
534
Esplanade Park Esplanadi, 00130 Helsinki
538
Uunisaari Ferry to the island from Kompassitori
547
Kaivopuisto Kaivopuisto, 00140 Helsinki
694
Gasometer at Suvilahti Kaasutehtaankatu 1
702
Jugend-style buildings of Katajanokka Luotsikatu, 00160 Helsinki
699
Island of Lonna Ferry to the island from Market Square
NOT ON THE MAP: 173
The Alvar Aalto House Riihitie 20
257
Kivinokka Herttoniemi
693
Lammassaari 00560 Helsinki
206
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TO DO & SEE
694
206
206
206 702
534
547 699 206
538 85
SERVICES
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SERVICES
FIND MORE TIPS ONLINE
TRAVELING IN THE CITY
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Useful services for travellers
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MAP OF SERVICES
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SERVICES
TRAVELING IN THE CITY The best ways to get around Helsinki are walking, cycling and public transport. Our public transport is efficient, affordable and pretty much always on time, even throughout winter. Sometimes though, in severe weather conditions, some delays are possible. The best way to find information about getting around, ticket prices and public transportation timetables is to visit Helsinki Region Transport website www.hsl.fi/en. But here also are some useful tips and information! Did you know about tickets? If you use public transport occasionally, you can buy a single ticket from a ticket machine, bus or tram driver, or a conductor on a commuter train. With a single ticket you can transfer from one bus, tram, or train to another while the ticket is still valid.
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Tram tickets are valid only on trams and they are available only from ticket machines. In Helsinki, you can also buy a single ticket by mobile phone. The ticket is valid within Helsinki. Please note that on bus services the use of the ticket is limited to certain bus routes.
Single ticket from the ticket machine 2,50€ Single ticket from a bus, train or tram 3,00€
SERVICES
DID YOU KNOW ABOUT PRICES?:
Single ticket with mobile phone 2,40€ Night-time single ticket 2.00am–4.30am 5,00€ Tram ticket from a tram ticket machine 2,20€
Did you know about discounts? Children aged 7–16 travel at a reduced child fare. Discounts on tickets are available also for students, pensioners and disabled people.
Did you know about trams? The tram is the main means of public transport in the inner city. Around 200,000 passengers use Helsinki’s extensive network of tram lines every weekday. In 2008 a total of 53.9 million journeys were made by tram, in a city with a population of just 1.2 million.
DID YOU KNOW ABOUT DAY TICKETS? 1–7 days ticket from the machine or outlet 1 day 8,00€ 2 days 12,00€ 3 days 16,00€ 4 days 20,00€ 5 days 24,00€ 6 days 28,00€ 7 days 32,00€
All information* from www.hsl.fi/en *Helsinki Design Guide does not take responsibility if HSLchanges their prices or policies from those mentioned above.
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706
Rent a car
Scandia Rent
SERVICES
Mannerheimintie 50 Tel. +358 40 135 0011, scandiarent.fi Scandia Rent is the largest Finnish car rental network. In Helsinki there are eight offices and the Airport office. You can make your car reservation 24/7 on the web site.
Rent a bicycle 707
Bicyclean
Luotsikatu 2, Selkämerenkatu 6, Tel. +358 41 4763318 bicycleanhelsinki.com 708
Greenbike
Bulevardi 32 Tel. +358 50 550 1020 greenbike.fi
703
Rent a kayak or a canoe
Š Natura Viva
Vuosaari Paddling Center Ramsinniementie 14, Tel. +358 10 292 4030, naturaviva.fi/en
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A large variety of single kayaks, double kayaks and canoes for rent. Canoe and kayak sightseeing and tours for beginners and experts alike. Book your tour in advance!
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695
Kampin suutari
If your shoes loose a heel or a zipper breaks, here in a corner of Kamppi Centre is a place where to find first aid.
695
SERVICES
Narinkka 3 Tel. +358 9 739 010 kampinsuutari.fi
The Lost property office & luggage storage
Narinkka 3 Tel. +358 9 739 010 kampinsuutari.fi At Kampin Suutari there is an affordable luggage storage amongst with other services passport pictures, repairs, tickets, and bicycle rental.
541
Exchange Currency
Forex Central Railway Station, Stockmann, Mikonkatu 11, forex.fi/en If you need to exchange currency, Forex - foreign exchange bureau serves you in several locations in downtown Helsinki.
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180
Free public restrooms
SERVICES
Sokos, Stockmann, Galleria Esplanad, Kamppi Centre Most Helsinki Shopping Centres have tidy and free toilets if you need one when in the city.
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Terveystalo Health Care Centre
Jaakonkatu 3 B, 3rd floor Tel. +358 30 6000 Terveystalo offers versatile healthcare, medical and examination services and has 24/7 on-call services.
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Pharmacy
Tel. +358 300 20200 Mannerheimintie 96, Mannerheimintie 5 Pharmacy in Finnish is ‘Apteekki’. In case of a late-night emergency, The University Pharmacy in Mannerheimintie 96 is open 24h.
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696
Helsinki Bus Station
Kamppi Centre, Urho Kekkosen katu 1,
The station is one of the most modern and busiest in the world. The arrival and departure bays are indoors and you can get directly from the bus station to the metro and the Espoo Bus Terminal without going outside.
44
SERVICES
Tel. +358 200 4000, eebee.fi/helsinki-bus-station
Helsinki Region Transport Services
Helsinki Central Railway Station/ Rautatientori metro station
hsl.fi/en For assistance with routes and timetables and travel cards. You can buy single tickets and tickets for 1-7 days also from the ticket machines located by the metro station entrances.
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Helsinki Taxi
Asema-aukio, Rautatientori, Senaatintori, Pohjoisesplanadi Tel. +358 100 0700 taksihelsinki.fi/en If you need a taxi in Helsinki you can order one by phone, and also make an advance booking if required.
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SERVICES
ON THE MAP: 44
Helsinki Region Transport Services Helsinki Central Railway Station/ Rautatientori metro station
47
University Pharmacy Mannerheimintie 5
180
Free public restrooms Sokos, Stockmann, Galleria Esplanad, Kamppi Centre
495
Terveystalo Health Care Centre Jaakonkatu 3
541
Forex Central Railway Station, Stockmann, Mikonkatu 11
546
Helsinki Taxi Asema-aukio, Rautatientori, Senaatintori, Pohjoisesplanadi
695
Kampin Suutari Kamppi Centre, Narinkka 3
696
Helsinki Bus Station Kamppi Centre, Urho Kekkosen katu 1
706
Scandia Rent Mannerheimintie 50
706
495
696
695
180
707 Bicyclean Luotsikatu 2 708
Greenbike Bulevardi 32
NOT ON THE MAP:
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47
University Pharmacy Mannerheimintie 96
703
Vuosaari Paddling Center Ramsinniementie 14
707
Bicyclean Selk채merenkatu 6
708
SERVICES 546 180
44
546 541 541
47
546 180 541
546 180
707
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HELSINKI, a modest looking piece of Finnish Design
Let’s have a look at Helsinki as an example of Finnish Design: at a glance it appears functional, safe and livable. It has been built in a sustainable manner making the most out of scarce resources. Everywhere materials are used in a durable and honest way. The strong seasonal changes have led to weather-proof solutions in every detail. Yes, it sounds like a description of a perfect product highlighting the virtues of Finnish Design, but is it slightly boring? The thankless proof of good design is that it often goes unnoticed. We seldom consciously pay attention to things functioning smoothly and making our everyday lives easier.
It could be well-designed daily objects, environments or services – even entire cities like Helsinki. We tend to take them for granted when we get used to them. If we stop and take a closer look at what really makes our everyday lives better it is often the small, inconspicuous things that make the difference. You name it: faucets that are intuitive and easy to use; safe public transport which runs on time; or digital interfaces that explain themselves. When we manage to combine these factors with pleasing aesthetics, desirable appearance, and rewarding user experiences, we are at the true core of good design.
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A good designer looks at familiar everyday things as if he or she had never seen them before. Seeing the interesting and novel aspects of things that remain unnoticed to the rest of us is a core quality of a trained designer. Helsinki might seem dull on the surface, but it offers plenty to experience. This is the Helsinki we have collected in this guide – the favourites of eight eagle-eyed citizens. See Helsinki through their eyes and let them share their personal favourites with you.
Helsinki: functional and safe – definitely. Exciting and inspiring – find out and decide yourself!
Arni Aromaa Creative Director, CEO Pentagon Design
SERVICES
HOW TO GET ONLINE IN HELSINKI? For a traveller there are many useful services online, like finding out what happens in Helsinki today, maps, bus schedules or navigation. A fear of roaming costs makes one want to use free wi-fi connections instead of 3G, but where to find it and how to get there? In Helsinki connecting is made easy. Your hotel is most likely to offer a good free internet connection. A network of hotspots in public buildings, civic squares and even some buses and trams have broadband connection. Look for “Helsinki City Open WLAN” or “Helsingin kaupungin WLAN” or “Helsingfors Stads WLAN”, from the available networks. There is no registration or password required. Most hotels, shopping centres and cafes and the
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Helsinki-Vantaa airport offer free wireless internet and there are also commercial services offering free WLAN around Helsinki. You can also buy prepaid data packages for various time periods from the mobile operators DNA, Elisa and Sonera. All these operators have a number of shops in the city center.
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GET HERE FOR YOUR PHONE You can use HERE Maps in nearly any smartphone browser – anywhere, anytime. If you are online, just open the browser on any Windows 8, iOS or Android phone or tablet and type here.com
If you want to use HERE Maps without an internet connection, you’ll need to download a map. To do that, open the HERE Maps app on your Windows Phone, swipe up and tap options icon (...) > download maps. • HERE Maps delivers an engaging map experience that gets you where you want to go and helps you discover something new every day. Even without an internet connection or network coverage, the dot on the map will show you where you are.
• HERE Transit makes finding your way easier than ever, combining schedules and routes for bus, train, underground and more. HERE Transit guides you from door to door with detailed descriptions to your route.
Once you are online, just open the browser on any Windows 8, iOS or Android phone or tablet and type here.com
TRAM ROUTES & CITY CENTER BUS ROUTES
1 1A
8
Ilmala
10
6 6T
7B Pasila Böle
2
4 4T
7A 9 2
3
3
2
24
3
Sörnäinen Sörnäs
M
Kalasatama Fiskhamnen
M
24
M
Hakaniemi Hagnäs
0
C Kaupunkimittausosasto, Helsinki 1 km 009/2013
Kaisaniemi Kajsaniemi Rautatientori Järnvägstorget Central Railway Station
M
24
Kamppi Kampen
M
8
Tram routes 1 Kauppatori - Käpylä 1A Eira - Kauppatori - Käpylä Kaivopuisto - Kamppi (M) Töölö - Nordenskiöldinkatu 3 Kaivopuisto - Kallio Nordenskiöldinkatu
2
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17 17 KATAJANOKKA SKATUDDEN
1 10
17
15
M
M
15 Ruoholahti Gräsviken
17
6
9 6T
1A
17
4 Katajanokka - Munkkiniemi 4T Katajanokka (terminaali) - Munkkiniemi 6 Hietalahti - Arabia 6T Länsiterminaali - Rautatieasema - Arabia 7A Senaatintori - Töölö - Pasila (asema) Senaatintori 7B Senaatintori - Pasila (asema) Töölö - Senaatintori 8 Jätkäsaari - Töölö – Arabia
24
2 3
4 Suomenlinnaan Till Sveaborg
4T
2 3
2
3 24 9 Länsiterminaali - Kamppi Kallio - Itä-Pasila 10 Kirurgi - Pikku Huopalahti
Bus routes 15 Ruoholahti - Salmisaari 17 Kruununhaka - Kamppi - Viiskulma 24 Merikatu – Seurasaari