Concept Hair Magazine Autumn 2020 issue by SNG Publishing

2020

E YE

FEATURING Robert Eaton Sofie Pok Dom Seeley Ashleigh Hodges L'OrÃ©al Cloud Nine and much more...

the next generation starts now!

winner wi

E NT I R P

autumn 2020

Ryan Mossop

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Autumn 2020 / Editor's Word

editor's

word

elcome to the latest issue of Concept Hair! Grab yourself a cuppa and a comfy chair and dive in. If you’re new to the hairdressing and barbering industry you’re in for a real treat! This is one of the most exciting and fun industries to be a part of - full of incredibly talented people and countless opportunities. Of course, this has been an extraordinarily challenging year. But it has also been one of new opportunities - especially for hair professionals. The quality and quantity of content available - hair tutorials, inspirational interviews and all sorts of education - has never been so high. Incredible, creative individuals have really flourished despite the uncertainty and many within the hair industry made the most of lockdown by taking in as much content as they possibly could. Pandemic or not, the Concept Hair Apprentice of the Year finalists were determined to complete the competition, and we were absolutely blown away by the quality of work our competitors completed in our virtual final. Head to page 6 for the write-up of this amazing first year of competition - and get inspired to sign up for Concept Hair Learner of the Year 2021, which is open for entries on our website! We also showcase amazing student work from the regional heats in our beautiful Look Book, which starts on page 29, and make sure you head to the back end of the magazine to test your knowledge with some headscratching revision questions.

DIGITAL EDITOR: TOM TRACEY tom.tracey@sng-publishing.co.uk

GRAPHIC DESIGNER: LEE OWEN design@sng-publishing.co.uk

ADVERTISING: PATRICK BLORE patrick.blore@sng-publishing.co.uk

OPERATIONS MANAGER: EMILY HILTON emily.hilton@sng-publishing.co.uk

MANAGING DIRECTOR: ZOE TANNER zoe.tanner@sng-publishing.co.uk

TECHNICAL CONTRIBUTORS: VTCT, Pivot Point

PRINTERS Stephens & George, Wales

DISCLAIMER Concept Hair Magazine is published by SNG Publishing Ltd (SNG). All content and artwork is © SNG Publishing Ltd or its contributors and SNG is a trade mark of SNG Publishing Ltd. No part of Concept Hair Magazine may be copied, transmitted or published in any form or by any means without prior permission. Although SNG has made every effort to ensure the accuracy of this publication, it does not verify any claims or other information appearing in the advertisements contained in Concept Hair Magazine. It therefore cannot accept any responsibility whatsoever for consequences that may arise from the content or artwork contained in Concept Hair Magazine, including any errors or omissions or any opinions or advice given therein. This publication and its content is not a substitute for professional advice on a particular matter. Advertisements are accepted for publication in Concept Hair Magazine only upon SNG Publishing Ltd standard terms of advertising.

See you in the next issue - or online in the meantime!

www.concepthairmag.co.uk

Tom Tracey Digital Editor

Search: ConceptHairMag

of new opportunities “This hasforbeenhaira year professionals ” GENERAL ENQUIRIES To subscribe to Concept Hair Magazine call 0121 606 3016 or subscribe online at www.concepthairmag.co.uk

Concept Hair / 01

contents

Autumn 2020 / Contents

Editor’s Note

sponsored by

Rabia Khan Muhammad

Samantha Twist

Samuel Winson

sponsored by

Barbering Level 3

A v a n t- g a r d e

Guerins Barbers (Educ8 Training)

Carlisle College:

“I am well chuffed! It’s a weight off my shoulders, it’s been bothering me for some time as I wanted to win so badly! It’s a good one to put on your resume. It will draw in more customers and people will have more trust in me. I did a Gatsbythemed haircut with a skin fade, to put a modern twist on it.”

“I actually passed my driving test in the morning, came home and saw I’d won this as well! I was so chuffed it was Andrew Barton announcing it. When I did the regional, I was only four months into my hairdressing course. Out of the other contestants the standard was so high, so it’s an amazing feeling.”

Ethan Daniels

sponsored by

10 / Concept Hair

Lauren Hobbs

Ella Templeton

sponsored by

Autumn 2020 / AOY 2020

you’re ““Ifthinking of entering next year, 100% do it

”

Concept Hair Apprentice of the Year winner

Ryan Mossop Nelson & Colne College

Ryan won the Colouring competition in the North West heat back in January and went on to win not just the Colouring final, but also the overall Concept Hair Apprentice of the Year award. Styling Level 2 and Fellowship S p ot l i g h t Awa r d winner Rayna Kovacheva East Durham College “I want to work in the fashion industry - magazines or movies, so I think this is a good start to put my name out. I feel very confident now and I’m ready for the next one, I cannot wait! If you are even thinking about entering next year and are scared, you should totally go for it - it’s worth it, the experience is amazing. It doesn’t matter if you win or not, it’s still amazing to go for it.”

sponsored by

elebrity hairdresser Andrew Barton, who helped judge the final, said: “Ryan blew us away with his ability to fulfil, understand and interpret exactly what the category brief was asking for and deliver this in a truly amazing colour transformation.”

How does it feel to have won? It’s amazing, I put in so many hours towards it. I feel like it’s really paid off. How did you find the final? I didn’t know what to expect. When you go to a live competition you can see what other people are doing. But with the online final, I had no idea what the outcome would be, so it’s a really nice surprise.

What made you choose hairdressing? I have always wanted to do hairdressing and have never wanted to do another job. What would you like to achieve in your career? I’d like a long career, I’d like to do a lot of education, teaching my own classes eventually. I put a lot of my time into education and am learning constantly. What will you do with all of the amazing prizes? I’ll definitely be creating some looks with them that you can see on Instagram! What would you say to people thinking of entering next year's competition? Doing well in a competition like this is no secret - practice and hard work will take you far.

How do you think winning will help you in your career? The recognition and support from this is going to be so beneficial to helping me get that step further. My confidence has gone up massively. I didn’t expect to win in my first competition, so it’s been amazing. What was the best part of the experience? I really enjoyed the journey of my model. At the start she had box dyed brown hair. The entire journey we’ve gone on has been amazing towards the final.

Head to our website for more info on the winners concepthairmag.co.uk

How did you come up with the look?

sponsored by

I am quite modern and fashion-forward. Instagram has been a big part of my inspiration - looking at other hairdressers like Guy Tang and @glam.by.heather.

Concept Hair / 11

Autumn 2020 / 20 Things I Love

20 things i

love

Ashleigh Hodges is Chancellor of the Fellowship for British Hairdressing and Global Director of the Hairdotcom art team. She also helped judge the Concept Hair Apprentice of the Year South East regional heat, so we took the chance to find out what she loves. Check out the video on our IGTV and website. What’s the best way to start

the day?

Dogs or cats?

babies! Cats! My two cats are my

With gratitude.

Who would you choose to play you in a Hollywood movie?

Emma Watson. I just think she’s fabulous. She rocks short hair, she rock s long hair and she likes to read books.

Favourite-ever hair trend?

I really like the balayage trend that’s current at the mome nt.

If you could style anyone’s hair, who would it be?

Which Hogwarts house would you be in? Gryffindor!

Hogwarts.

Best non-hairdressing acc ount you follow on Instagram?

s being on What do you think of client tment? oin the phone during their app be on

A friend of mine is @__wolf sister and I just think her account is beautiful and helps keep you grounded and happy.

ll out, I’m all for it. They can chi their phone, I’m happy.

ppings? Favourite pizza to and black

Favourite celebrity haircut?

apple I really like pine a weirdo! olives. I’m such

I really like Fearne Cotton’s little sassy bob.

eral public One thing you wished the gen s? ser res ird knew about ha

Best thing about being a ha ird

res

ser? The diversity in my week and getting to meet incredible people.

are intelligent. That we are creative, we a hairdresser. to ers There are so many lay

and why? year of your life to have a at I was going

Most overrated TV show? Big Brother probably, it was good when it started but then it definitely trailed off.

decided th 2018, because I at I wanted to. ly did things th on I re he w t ou year

What’s the question you get asked most often?

more about?

more about Everything, I wish I knew subjects in the ny ma everything. There are so to sleep and could world. I wish I didn’t have time. just read and learn all the

What inspires you?

Nature inspires me the mo st. Just walking out of my flat, I im mediately see creativity and inspirati on.

Best place on earth?

What fictional place would you most like to visit?

What do you wish you knew

Sam McKnight. The work he does is classic, beautiful and creative all at once.

Oh, for me it’s London. I love being in London.

I’d really find it fascinating to do one of the royals, but that’s just because I’d be interested in all their gossip.

st Which was the be

Who is you ultimate hair idol?

ashleigh_hodges_hair

As soon as people find ou t you’re a hairdresser they say, ‘so wh at would you do with my hair if I let you do anything?’

THE COMPETITION RETURNS

2021

ARNE

E YE

COULD THIS BE YOUR YEAR? STYLING

HAIR UP

BARBERING

COLOURING

AVA N T- G A R D E

T H E N E X T G E N E R AT I O N S TA R T S N O Wâ&#x20AC;¦ WWW.CONCEPTHAIRMAG.CO.UK

Autumn 2020 / NHBF

Whatever “dreams you have, we’re here to help them come true

”

NHBF Chief Executive Richard Lambert

why you should become an

nhbf member!

As you set out on an exciting career in the hairdressing or barbering industry, you’ve probably got big plans for the future. Maybe self-employed chair renting will be the way forward for you after you’ve gained some experience, or perhaps your ambition is to open your own business.

competitions and awards

he NHBF is a member organisation for hair and beauty professionals that offers a wide range of value-for-money benefits, as well as discounts on vital business essentials.

Always there for you When you’re running your own business, either as a self-employed chair renter or the owner of a salon or barbershop, there will be a lot to think about – from health & safety, tax, insurance and employment law to knowing how to make a profit and grow your business into the future. 14 / Concept Hair

“As an NHBF Member – which currently costs less than 80p a day – you’ll have access to our friendly membership team for help with everyday business enquiries and our free 24/7 legal helpline for any trickier issues,” says Chief Executive Richard Lambert.

Running a business should be fun too – that’s why we run a number of high-profile competitions and awards every year, giving you a chance to get noticed, compete with the best in the industry and showcase your skills.

Members also benefit from discounted insurance, free chair renting agreements, discounted health & safety toolkits, and much more.

did you know? NHBF Membership costs less than 80p a day! Bookmark the NHBF site: nhbf.co.uk

Autumn 2020 / How To

how to create

Cloud Nine’s

Pastel Waves for days

Pastel hair is huge right now and we just love these soft tousled waves. Cloud Nine shows us how to achieve maximum body and bounce with glamourous waves paired with a messy braid that will take you from day to night.

HOT TIP Using Cloud Nine’s Airshot Hairdryer with Tourmaline vitamin-infused ceramic heating elements and the mineral-infused Curling Wand helps to lock in moisture, seal the cuticle layer and minimise frizz.

PREP Start by prepping the hair with Cloud Nine’s Magical Quick Dry Potion. This hair hero not only works to protect the hair against heat but also reduces drying time by up to 50%.

16 / Concept Hair

STEP 1 Using the Airshot, direct the airflow downwards through the hair, adding texture while drying by twisting the hair into braids to give more volume.

Autumn 2020 / How To

HOT TIP Using lower temperatures is proven to make your colour last longer.

Taking the award-winning Curling Wand, section the hair and curl tightly in a direction away from the face and leave the curls to cool.

@cloudninec9

STEPS 2-3

Once cool, brush through the curls using the Cloud Nine Texture Comb to soften and create a gorgeously-tousled look.

FINISH To finish, take a section of hair from behind the ear and twist into a messy braid and fix with a bobby pin on the opposite side.

Share your take on this look using

@CLOUDNINEC9 Up to

60% off

finished LOOK

Exclusive student offers Cloud Nine, proud sponsor of Concept Hair Apprentice of the Year, is offering students exclusive discounts of up to 60% off its products. For more details, contact the Cloud Nine Trade team on 0845 2003563 . Concept Hair / 17

Autumn 2020 / The Interview

Concept Hair: Hi Rob, how has life been since you were named Hairdresser of the Year? Robert Eaton: Very busy! Winning at the awards brings so many exciting opportunities. The situation with Coronavirus changed the direction slightly as we are all focusing on our salons and teams, but our values of artistic excellence will help us come back stronger than ever. CH: How did it feel to win the top prize and also enter the British Hairdressing Awards Hall of Fame? RE: Incredible! Entering the Hall of Fame is a massive achievement in itself, but to then win British was mindblowing. After working so hard for many years to reach this point it was wonderful to win – not only for myself but for our family business. On the night I was thrilled to be up there with everyone and winning was a moment I will never forget. CH: What inspires the looks you create in your collections? RE: My British collection, Chromatic, was inspired by my love of colour blocking. I wanted to bring to life an editorial-inspired colour collection, almost as if you were looking at the pages of a fashion magazine.

He’s the current British Hairdresser of the Year, Creative Director at Russell Eaton Salons in Leeds and Barnsley and Wella Professional’s Technical Director. We caught up with the ever-friendly inspiration that is Robert Eaton.

rob

the interview CH: How do you deal with setbacks? RE: I don’t give up! There have been plenty of shows I didn’t win or auditions that didn’t progress. But I learnt from what went wrong to ensure that next time, I was even more prepared.

“I love that feeling when a client leaves happy and in love with their hair!”

18 / Concept Hair

Autumn 2020 / The Interview Pictures are from Chromatic, Robert Eaton's British Hairdresser of the Year winning collection.

CH: Did you always want to be a hairdresser growing up? RE: Yes – I started working in the family salon on Saturdays from the age of 11. I loved it straight away and knew it was the career for me. At school I was always quite artistic, so if I hadn’t become a hairdresser, I think I would have pursued a career in graphic design.

b ert eaton

CH: Do you still find time to get behind the chair in the salon? RE: Yes, I love working on clients! I still work in both our Leeds and Barnsley salons on a weekly basis and it is still my favourite part of the job. I love that feeling when a client leaves happy and in love with their hair!

@robertjeaton

Brush up on “ skills, learn new techniques and innovate!

”

CH: What’s the best way to use your free time? RE: Education! There is always opportunity for any hairdresser to brush up on skills, learn new techniques and innovate. There is lots of education available online for free, including the Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s #THEKNOWLEDGE platform. Social media is full of ideas and inspiration, but focus on one area at a time and perfect that, rather than trying to do everything. CH: What does the future hold for you? RE: This is a very exciting stage of my career. I feel there is lots more I can offer, not only in terms of developing the Eaton brand but also by giving back to our incredible industry in the way of mentoring others and sharing with everyone what a fantastic industry it is.

Concept Hair / 19

Concept Hair: Hi Dom, great to talk to you! How did you get into hairdressing? Dom Seeley: I got started when I was about 13, doing hairdressing one day a week. After two years I qualified with NVQ Level 1 and at 16 I became one of the youngest ever to achieve NVQ Level 2 and 3. I wouldn’t say I fell into hair as I struggled for so long, but one day it clicked and I found a real passion and desire for it. CH: What was your first step into the world of celebrity? DS: GHD put a call out for people to assist at Milan Fashion Week so I commented and crazily enough, within a week I was asked to be a part of the team. I went on to assist people like LUKE HERSHESON and work on the Jonathan Ross Show, where I assisted on ZARA LARSSON’s hair. Brands also started to be aware of me as I was posting my work to my Instagram and building a following. CH: Your job takes you all over the world – what does a typical day in your life look like? DS: My job is crazy – one day I could be on a plane and the next day be on a shoot. Last year I was flown to Dubai for HUDA BEAUTY to do Huda’s hair. Four days later we went to Mumbai as Huda was up for an award at Vogue India’s Women of the Year awards. A couple of days later we were on a flight to Washington DC for a Facebook conference! In three-and-a-half days I travelled halfway across the world taking in three cities and five different hair looks. CH: What shoots stand out as being the most fun to work on?

Just some of the celeb looks created by Dom: Huda Kattan, Amber Davies, Olivia Culpo and Bella Hadid

22 / Concept Hair

DS: The shoots are all so crazy and different and I take and learn from each one. But my favourite was for WISHFUL Skincare for Huda Beauty. It was super stripped back with a powerful message, just refreshing to see and be a part of in a world that can be pretty false and photoshopped.

CH: Who is your biggest inspiration in hairdressing? DS: There are a few! JEN ATKIN is the woman who saw me in a crowded room and gave me a voice and platform. Without her I would not be where I am. ADIR ABERGEL is a genius when it comes to hair. He sees hair differently to anyone I’ve met before. GUIDO PALAU and SAM MCKNIGHT basically make the trends at Fashion Week each season and the looks they create filter down through the hair industry and end up in salons – these guys create magic. CH: If you could give some advice to someone just starting out, what would it be? DS: Be driven, stay focused, be humble and kind, stay punctual and learn the craft. Don’t run before you can walk, there is always something to learn. CH: If you could style anyone’s hair, who would it be and what would you do? DS: ZENDAYA changes up her look every time you see her so she’d be a great person to have as a muse. I’d love to work on a BEYONCÉ tour – who wouldn’t? It’d be great fun to work with KHLOÉ KARDASHIAN. I’ve worked with her sister KENDALL and she’s so genuine so I imagine Khloe to be the same. CH: How important has social media been in your career? DS: Social media is crucial. It’s your CV, it’s what gets people and brands to notice you and it shows to the world what you can offer and deliver. Social media is about selling yourself in the best way. Keep it clean, direct and to the point while showing a part of yourself people want to follow. CH: What is your favourite thing about hairdressing? DS: I love hairdressing – it’s always evolving. The possibilities are endless, it’s so diverse and you can truly be your own boss. I love where I am career-wise and to me this is just the start.

media is crucial. It’s your CV “Social and it gets people to notice you ”

Autumn 2020 / The Interview

hairdressing “– theI lovepossibilities are endless, it’s so diverse and you can truly be your own boss

”

Dom the interview

Seeley @domseeley

Kendall Jenner and Huda Kattan can’t live without him. Meet globe-trotting hair artist and stylist to the stars Dom Seeley.

Concept Hair / 23

I canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t

cope

SUPPORTING HAIR AND BEAUTY PROFESSIONALS AND THEIR CHILDREN

Together we can help make a difference supporting terminal illness, domestic abuse, homelessness, poverty, mental health, and financial hardship Thanks to our charity sponsors

Hairandbeautycharity.org | Registered Charity in England & Wales No: 1166298

Autumn 2020 / Hair Trends

autumn / winter 2020

hair trends

Conor Townend from Room 97 Creative, Leeds and Wakefield, looks at three key trends hitting the salons this Autumn.

Layered Shapes Layered or Choppy Fringes Ideal for fashion-conscious clients who want to make a statement, the fringe suits all face shapes and textures. Perfect if your client wants an update to their style without losing the length, adding a fringe will instantly revitalise the hair. Forget blunt and bold – this season it’s all about the layers and choppy outlines.

Strong Bobs The bob is timeless and can be classic or edgy, depending on the length and lines. Play with angles to skim the shoulders, or highlight strong cheekbones. Whatever the length, keep it modern with added texture and updated shapes.

Hair: Marcello Moccia at Room 97 Creative, Leeds and Wakefield

The perfect style choice for those growing out their hair for the first time. Layers will lengthen the shape and add movement to lank hair, and revolutionise the way they see long hair.

Room 97 Creative “salons and training academies are owned by multiaward-winning Marcello Moccia

”

For more info: www.room97.com Instagram: @room97creative Concept Hair / 25

Autumn 2020 / How to

Create subtle shades with natural appeal

Not everyone wants bold blocks of colour, or statement shades. Many clients, particularly those aged 35-50, prefer to keep it natural. These clients also want grey coverage with no compromise, offering colourists a real challenge. But with the launch of its Luxelights in-salon service and the expansion of its Koleston Perfect ME+ Pure Naturals Collection, Wella Professionals has it covered.

he four new Resistant Cool Cover shades joining the Pure Natural Collection are specifically formulated to offer unparalleled grey coverage, while creating naturally beautiful colour, making them the perfect partners for salons introducing the Luxelights service menu.

STEP 1 First, divide the hair into four sections. Next, work from the front of the hairline towards the crown, taking fine slices of hair and applying formula A from root to tip.

STEP 2 Repeat this process on each of the sections you have created. For a softer affect, you can backcomb the root area before application â&#x20AC;&#x201C; remember, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s all about natural-looking blending rather than dramatic contrasts.

STEP 3 Apply formula B to the root area, allow to develop for 40 minutes, then rinse. Next, apply Wellaplex No2 (bond stabiliser) for 10 minutes. Shampoo and apply Blondor Seal & Care to condition hair for a healthy-looking finish.

Follow this simple how-to guide to creating a beautiful honey blonde look and see the stunning results for yourself.

COLOUR FORMULAS

26 / Concept Hair

Formula A:

Formula B:

Formula C:

30g Blondorplex + 45ml Welloxon Perfect 1.9% Pastel.

30g of Koleston Perfect ME+ Pure Naturals Collection Resistant Cool Cover 88/02 + 30ml Welloxon Perfect 6% Developer.

20g Koleston Perfect ME+ Pure Naturals Collection 9/31 + 20ml Welloxon Perfect 1.9% Pastel Developer + 20ml INVIGO Post Colour Treatment.

Autumn 2020 / How to

BEFORE

HOT TIP For a natural looking blend, feather the colour to the hairline with the tip of your brush.

AFTER

@wellahairuki

STEP 4

#honeyblonde

For a high-shine finish with a soft, natural tone, apply formula C from root to tip and leave to develop for 10 minutes. Finally, rinse until the water runs clean.

finished LOOK

STYLING Spray EIMI Root Shoot into the hair and blow-dry against the natural fall. Next use a heated styler to wind each section in a different direction to create naturallooking texture and movement in the hair. Spray with Mistify Me Light for flexible hold then finish the look using a heated styler to create softer waves. Concept Hair / 27

Autumn 2020 / Products

how to use

Temporary Colour spray

We love experimenting with colour! Manic Panic's range of Amplified colour hair sprays lets you enjoy a brand new shade without committing to anything permanent.

STEP 1 Perform a patch test to test colour and ensure no irritation

STEP 2 Cover up any surfaces you don't want to get stained!

STEP 3 Shake the bottle thoroughly to get the colour ready

STEP 4 Spray about 20cm from hair in short bursts

STEP 5 Angle the bottle (rather than hold upright) for best results

emember that the colour outcome will depend on a number of factors, including how light or blonde the hair is before you dye it. The texture, thickness and porosity of the hair can all affect the end colour.

STEP 6 To remove, thoroughly wash hair with shampoo

Product features 100% VEGAN FRIENDLY AND CRUELTY-FREE FREE FROM PPD, PARABENS, AMMONIA, RESORCINOL, PHTHALATE AND GLUTEN COLOUR COMES OUT AFTER ONLY ONE WASH

28 / Concept Hair

Manic Panic was created in 1977 by sisters and former Blondie back-up singers Tish & Snooky. From its punk roots, the brand has become a global sensation â&#x20AC;&#x201C; its colours have been worn by celebrities including Katy Perry, Kylie Jenner, Jared Leto and Kim Kardashian. The Amplified formula was introduced in 2005 and Manic Panicâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s range of colours is also available as semi-permanent colour creams.

k o o L ook B EN PR T I

2020

e h T

E YE

The looks created at the Concept Hair Apprentice of the Year regional events were so INCREDIBLE that we just had to show them off. So this Look Book is not only #HAIRINSPO but a celebration of what you, the future of our industry, have been creating! Every picture from the regional heats is available on our website. Go to concepthairmag.co.uk/events

STYLING 1920S

HAIR UP PROM HAIR

Autumn 2020 / Look Book

34 / Concept Hair

BARBERING PEAKY BLINDERS VS THE GREAT GATSBY

COLOURING

Autumn 2020 / Look Book

Concept Hair / 37

Autumn 2020 / Look Book

AVANT-GARDE FIRE & ICE 38 / Concept Hair

Autumn 2020 / Testing

colouring hair: the

essential tests

Are more clients asking for the Insta hair of their dreams? Debbie Digby, Chief Executive of Passion4Hair, says don’t forget to carry out essential tests before letting your creative juices flow.

s trends change it’s vital we update and transform our skills as stylists. Today, diverse looks and fashions mean the needs and desires of our clients are ever changing.

Skin Test • Skin testing is important, especially if a client has been colouring their hair for many years. • Following manufacturer’s guidelines is best practice and will help avoid any client reactions.

Strand Test

HOT TIP Keep written records of all test results and conversations you have with your client

• If you are doing a complex service or a new service for a client, my advice would be to carry out a strand test. • You can strand test on or off the head depending on what you are testing. • Samples should be cut from inconspicuous places, preferably in a couple of different parts of the head. • Strand testing will allow you to pre-plan your services with accuracy.

Incompatibility Test • Take a small piece of hair and put it into a solution as directed by the manufacturer’s guidelines for the product you are using. • You are checking for adverse reactions that can be seen by the hair or lotion heating up, changing to an unexpected colour or bubbling. Incompatibility test

Porosity Test • Porosity is the measure of the compactness of the cuticle layers of the hair. • Take one strand of hair that is clean with no product on and put it into a clear container of room temperature water. • If the hair floats it has low porosity, if it settles midway it is normal and if it sinks it has high porosity.

Stretch/Pull test Porosity test

• Take about 10 clean wet hairs between your index finger and your thumb on both hands, one inch apart. • Pull the hair and observe the stretch. It should easily stretch one third (to an inch and a third) and immediately return to its former one-inch. • If it is difficult to stretch or appears to be stiff, it needs moisture for more flexibility. If it stretches more than one third and appears ‘baggy’ when it returns, it needs protein for strength. A sample colour technical sheet is available to download at:

Stretch/pull test

www.concepthairmag.co.uk/learning-resources/ Concept Hair / 41

Summer 2020 / How To

how to create

relaxed hair LOOK

From Pivot Point LAB, a bespoke VTCT learning resource, this step-by-step takes us through the procedures for a virgin sodium hydroxide relaxer service, creating a smoother and more manageable look.

PREP This hair has not been chemically treated. Note: The hair must not be shampooed prior to this service. A pre-relaxing treatment may be required to even out the porosity.

step 3 On the back-right section, use 0.6cm-1.25cm horizontal partings to apply base cream to the scalp. Use a dabbing motion to apply. Repeat in this section, using vertical partings. Repeat on the remaining sections. 42 / Concept Hair

step 1 The diagram shows the head will be sectioned in five sections to perform the service. Horizontal and diagonal-back partings will be used to apply the relaxer with 0.6cm partings.

step 4 Begin application at the top of the back-right section. Use 0.6cm horizontal partings and apply about 1.25cm from the roots through the midlengths, but not to the ends. Gently place the hair out of the way. Apply to the top and bottom of each parting.

Use the tail comb to take random partings through the head and examine the scalp to ensure the service may be performed. To avoid scalp irritation, do not touch the scalp with the tail comb.

step 5 When the section is completed, gently bring the lengths down and repeat on the left side using the same technique.

step 2 After sectioning the hair, apply base cream around the entire hairline and to the tops of the ears to protect these areas from the relaxer product.

step 6 Left side, in front of the ear. Use 0.6cm diagonal-back partings starting at the top. Apply in the same manner. Lay completed sections back away from the face then move to the right side and repeat.

Autumn 2020 / How To

step 7 Move to the top section. Using horizontal partings, start at the back of the section and apply to the bottom of each parting first, directing the hair towards the front.

step 11 Complete the application by applying to the entire headline.

step 15 Perform a strand test. Clear away excess product from the root of the hair using the back or tail of the comb. Then press the back of the comb against the root area to determine the degree of relaxation that has taken place and check the condition of the hair.

step 8 Apply to the top of each parting, directing and positioning the hair away from the face.

step 1 2 Return to first section. Use back of tail comb to smooth each parting. Smooth the top of the strand first and rest on your palm, then the bottom, directing it upwards. Repeat on the second back section and then the sides.

step 9 Return to first section. Use 0.6cm partings and apply relaxer to root area. Then to the porous ends. Work to the bottom then bring the lengths down. Repeat on the back and side sections.

step 1 3 Move to the top section and again work from the back towards the front. Smooth the bottom and then the top of each parting, resting the strand on your palm.

step 1 6 If the desired degree of relaxation has occurred, rinse and use post-relaxer treatments and neutralising shampoo following the manufacturerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s instructions. Style as required, avoiding excess tension.

step 1 0 Work from the back to the front of the top section, applying to the roots and ends. Again, apply to the bottom of each parting then to the top to keep the hair out of the face.

step 1 4 You may also choose to work with the strand flat against the head in this or other areas of the head. Then check and smooth the entire hairline.

Carefully and properly relaxed hair retains a healthy, soft appearance. Any number of finishes are possible for the client with relaxed hair.

finisheD look Courtesy of Pivot Point International, Inc ÂŠ

Concept Hair / 43

Hair: Fellowship for British Hairdressing F.A.M.E. Team 2019; Lora Griffin, Tania Faenza, Ashley Cockrell, Alastair Jubbs. Creative Direction: Errol Douglas MBE | Photography: Barry Jeffery | Make-up: Branka Vorkapic | Styling: Desiree Lederer | Production: Kate Jeffery | Products: Goldwell

Join ClubStar today to enjoy free entry for some Fellowship events and give your career the best start possible!

The hairdressing industry is very competitive and busy business to be in, one where experience counts for everything! ClubStar membership is a sure fire way to get ahead, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s the first step on the Fellowship ladder for hairdressers aged 16-25 and the ClubStar Art Team provides the best head start with mentoring, education and plenty of exciting opportunities.

fellowshiphair.com | info@fellowshiphair.com

the interview

SOFIE POK LA-BASED BARBER SOFIE POK IS KNOWN TO HER ARMY OF INSTAGRAM FOLLOWERS AS STAYGOLD. SHE IS A GLOBAL AMBASSADOR FOR BABYLISS, A PLATFORM EDUCATOR AND HAS TWICE BEEN VOTED FEMALE BARBER OF THE YEAR AT BARBERCON.

Concept Hair: Hi Sofie! How did you first get into barbering? Sofie pok: Hello! I got into barbering in college when I was seeking a new creative outlet. My friend recommended hair school after she asked me to trim her ends (I had no clue what I was doing, but did it anyways with paper cutting shears lol). So I figured I’ve got nothing to lose, let’s try it out!

“I LOVE BEING ABLE TO CHANGE PEOPLE'S EMOTIONS THROUGH A HAIRCUT”

ch: What is your favourite thing about barbering? SP: I love being able to change people’s emotions through a haircut and now through education. Barbering is also super fast-paced and I love how different each day is. It’s such an art form, being able to shape all types of hair on different head shapes. ch: Who is your all-time barbering idol and why? SP: I don’t have a main barbering idol, but I do appreciate all influences from as many directions as possible. ch: What’s been the proudest moment of your career so far? SP: My proudest moment is being in the barbering education book for Pivot Point. It was a full circle experience – I had learned from that book when I was in school and now I am part of the newly-added system for barbers.

Concept Hair / 45

Autumn 2020 / The Interview

CH: What advice would you give to anyone just starting out in barbering? SP: To just not overthink anything and take everything light-hearted. Allow yourself to be patient with your current state and just keep working on elevating your craft every day, and to be a sponge to everything that’s out there and available. Just go for it! The greatest achievements are gained by the people who are fearless and work against their doubts. Talent in barbering is gained through practice… no one just wakes up and has the skill set, so it makes you appreciate the journey once you get the hang of it.

SOFIE “THE GREATEST ACHIEVEMENTS ARE GAINED BY THE PEOPLE WHO ARE FEARLESS”

CH: After making your Salon International debut last year, can we expect to see you in the UK again any time soon? Sp: It was so fun to be at Salon International. I loved the show and how creative they allowed me to be and I HOPE that I can come back soon.

46 / Concept Hair

Autumn 2020 / The Interview

CH: How did you become an ambassador for BaByliss? Sp: Through Instagram and networking with people at shows. My Instagram at the time helped me a lot because I was already using it to market myself and they saw that as an opportunity to marry the idea of me collaborating with their products. CH: Was it always a dream of yours to have your own brand? Sp: I actually never knew before that it would be what I wanted. Over time, the ideas evolved and I grew with it. Now, I’m always looking for ways to grow and expand my brand and find new ways to help elevate myself. CH: Your Instagram is full of advice for young barbers – how important is it to you to support the next generation? Sp: VERY important. We should all work towards making the industry a better place. We all evolve and we must work together to help the industry grow. CH: What does the future hold? Sp: The future is very bright! Releasing something new this year, new Gold Zone classes will be in motion and I’m just very excited every day to find new opportunities to grow in all aspects of my life.

Quickfire Questions

staygold31

WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE OF YOUR TATTOOS? My back piece – Earth Dragon

FAVOURITE BAND? Don’t have a current favourite band, but I love the deep house genre.

“WE SHOULD ALL WORK TOWARDS MAKING THE INDUSTRY A BETTER PLACE”

WHAT’S THE BEST HOLIDAY YOU’VE EVER BEEN ON? Going to Bali was one of the most relaxing trips I’ve ever been on. The country was amazing and it was definitely the most refreshing trip I’ve had in the last few years. DO YOU HAVE ANY PHOBIAS? I hate insects lol like crazyyyy

STRANGEST REQUEST YOU’VE HAD FROM A CLIENT? Hmm… maybe shaving their hairy back and chest!

Concept Hair / 47

Autumn 2020 / Scissor Care

Summer 2020 / AOY 2020

bettertons Looking sharp

“YOU CAN TELL THERE'S A CHIP IN YOUR BLADE IF THE HAIR IS PULLING OR SNAGGING”

EVER WONDERED WHY YOUR SCISSORS SUDDENLY AREN'T CUTTING AS WELL AS THEY USED TO? IT HAPPENS TO US ALL, BUT WHY? BETTERTONS HAS THE ANSWERS.

Blunt Edge

Blade Chips

Over time, all blades will start to lose their sharp edge. This will be noticeable because instead of the hair being cut cleanly, you will start to feel the blades bending the hair. This will affect the quality of your cut, and leave your client with damaged ends. If this is the case you need to send your scissors to be sharpened. How quickly a blade starts to go blunt depends on the amount of use and the quality of the scissor.

There are a few ways in which you can get a chip in your blade and no, they don’t just appear! The most common causes are dropping your scissors, catching your comb while cutting, and from product and residue in your client’s hair. You can normally tell there is a chip if the hair is pulling, or ‘snagging’, when you cut through the hair. An easy way to check your blade for chips is to gently run the top of your nail backwards along the blade,

“BLADES WITH A BLUNT EDGE CAN CAUSE DAMAGED ENDS” 48 / Concept Hair

this will enable you to feel the uneven edge. Do not continue to cut with damaged edges, as this will shorten the life of your scissor, and annoy your clients! Screw Tension The tension of your screw will also affect how your scissors cut. Too loose and the hair will fold when cutting. Too tight and the blades will grind together, and damage your client’s ends.

Bettertons offers a scissor sharpening service, for details visit: gebetterton.co.uk

HYGIENE & MAINTENANCE The benefit to looking after your clippers is that they will last longer, saving you money in the long term and ensuring you get the best cutting results.

TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT

comfortable for you and your client. It also lubricates and protects against corrosion by blasting away hair and debris in the blades.

Your tools can be cleaned quickly and thoroughly between clients with Hygienic Spray. It’s a quick and easy way to keep your blades clean and is effective against bacteria, Yeasts and all enveloped viruses, including Covid-19. Use Blade Ice during each haircut to maintain the clipper performance as it keeps the blade cool, making it more

“BLADES SHOULD BE OILED AFTER CLEANING. ALWAYS OIL YOUR BLADE AT THE END OF EACH DAY. OILING REGULARLY HELPS TO KEEP THE BLADES AT OPTIMUM SHARPNESS, SO YOU WON’T NEED TO REPLACE YOUR BLADES SO OFTEN. ” SAM CAMPAGNA - WAHL EDUCATION & ARTISTIC TEAM MEMBER

SECTION AND CHAIRS

PERSONAL HYGIENE

All surfaces should be sanitised after a client. Rather than using wipes, you can opt for a bacteria-killing surface spray.

Masks and face shields are currently a must-have. Instead of disposable gloves, ensure you are thoroughly sanitising after each client.

WAHLPROUK

WAHLPROFESSIONALUK

WAHL.CO.UK

Autumn 2020 / Exercises

exercises

VTCT provides Pivot Point LAB, an online learning platform, to support its Hair & Beauty qualifications. The resources available in LAB help you develop your skills and knowledge and prepare for qualification assessments. Learn through interactive lessons, quizzes, videos and more. Ask your training provider if theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;re using LAB and get started today! Vocational Training Charitable Trust is a specialist awarding organisation offering vocational and technical qualifications in a range of service sectors. These exercises have been created using VTCT and Pivot Point industry expertise to test your knowledge on styling hair, textured hair, drying and finishing hair, business skills, and health & safety.

If you would like to find out more about how one of VTCTâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s courses could help further your career, check out the website: www.vtct.org.uk

Discover more about Pivot Point Education at www.pivotpoint.co.uk VTCT and Pivot Point are now offering all learners in the Hair & Beauty sector these resources for free. Ask your educator about signing up for Pivot Point LAB.

HAIR STYLING Answer the following true or false questions.

When a bride plans to wear a strapless dress, the shoulders and neck are important factors to consider in the consultation.

Applying too much tension to the hair when braiding can cause traction alopecia.

ANSWER

TRUE

FALSE

ANSWER

TRUE

FALSE

ANSWER

High humidity does not affect hair that has been heat-styled. TRUE

Dry shampoo can be used to expand the time between shampoos and add texture to the hair.

A fishtail plait consists of three hair strands crossed over each other to create a criss-cross effect.

FALSE

ANSWER

TRUE

FALSE

ANSWER

TRUE

FALSE

Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free 50 / Concept Hair

Autumn 2020 / Exercises

TEXTURED HAIR Choose the correct answer to each of the following multiple-choice questions.

Which one of the following hair types has a Z pattern and spring curl?

Ans.

An uneven effect will be created when cutting curly hair that isâ&#x20AC;Ś

Completely wet

Completely dry

Chemically treated

Partly wet and partly dry

a b c d

Which one of the following is the best advice for a client with relaxed hair, to maintain a smooth look with natural volume?

Ans.

Hair that has been coloured with a semi-permanent colour

Hair with a thioglycolate relaxer on the mid-lengths

Hair that last had sewn-in wefts two months ago

Hair with a 4cm growth, following a hydroxide relaxer

To use straightening irons daily To dry wrap the hair before bed To apply hairspray before bed To sleep on a satin pillow

Which one of the following is the most suitable product to help prepare and protect type 3 and 4 hair, when creative styling?

Mousse

Gel spray

Oil/moisturisers

Heat protectors

Which one of the following is a contraindication to a sodium hydroxide relaxer service?

Ans.

Image courtesy of Pivot Point International

Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free Concept Hair / 51

Autumn 2020 / Exercises

HEALTH & SAFETY Complete the following multiple-choice questions by choosing the correct answer.

A razor blade should be disposed of…

Ans.

Which one of the following is a hazard?

In a closed bin

Client tripping over a cable

In a sharps box

An electric shock

Wrapped in paper

Client slipping on a wet floor

In a general waste bin

A broken chair

Which one of the following is an employer’s Ans. responsibility under RIDDOR?

To report a work-related major injury to environmental health

To provide training on manual handling

To assess the risk to health, from hazardous products

Which one of the following is the most suitable fire extinguisher for a fire in a waste paper bin?

Carbon dioxide

Powder

Water

Foam

To provide correct storage for client data

Good personal hygiene refers to…

Having clean, styled hair and washing regularly

Washing daily and maintaining good posture

Showering daily, wearing deodorant and clean clothes

Showering and brushing teeth daily and washing clothes weekly

Ans.

Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free 52 / Concept Hair

Ans.

Autumn 2020 / Exercises

BUSINESS Answer the following multiple-choice questions.

Which one of the following is not a requirement of an employment contract?

Ans.

Which one of the following best describes ways of keeping up to date with current trends?

The contract needs to include or confirm the location of the grievance procedures

Read fashion journals and manufacturersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; instructions

The contract needs to include hours of work and holiday entitlements

Read fashion magazines and visit trade websites

The contract needs to detail the job role

Read newspapers and watch fashion TV

The contract needs to be a formal written document

Watch TV and read trade journals

Which one of the following is the most important reason for continuous professional development?

Ans.

Which one of the following is not covered by the Equality Act?

To help maintain and increase client numbers

Age

It promotes a professional image

Religion

To help achieve an annual pay rise

Disability

It looks good on your CV

Qualifications

Which one of the following is not a requirement of the Data Protection Act?

To keep information safe

Information kept must be accurate

To provide third parties with access to information

Information kept must be relevant to the business

Ans.

Image courtesy of Pivot Point International

Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free Concept Hair / 53

Autumn 2020 / Exercises

BARBERING: DRYING & FINISHING Complete the following multiple-choice questions by choosing the correct answer.

Which one of the following would be the most suitable brush to achieve a textured, blow-dry finish?

Ans.

A round brush would be the most suitable for achieving which one of the following blow-dry finishes?

Vent

Flat top

Round

Quiff

Paddle

French crop

Military

Mohawk

Which one of the following is the most suitable look for a finger dry?

A one-length cut

A short graduated cut

Which one of the following products contains ingredients that protect the hair, provides hold and is applied to wet hair?

Hair spray

Wax

Styling cream

Serum

Ans.

A long layered cut

A crew cut

To prevent hair damage, the dryer should be directedâ&#x20AC;Ś

Close to the hair

Up the hair lengths

Towards the roots

In the direction of the cuticle

Ans.

Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free 54 / Concept Hair

Image courtesy of Pivot Point International

Ans.

Autumn 2020 / Exercises

INSPIRATION Create a Cutting Inspirations Guide, to use with your clients and support your cut and finish consultations.

YOUR GUIDE CAN BE: • Created on a mobile device and include web links and/or videos • A Look Book • A Mood Board

IMAGES TO COVER A RANGE OF CREATIVELY CUT LOOKS AND TECHNIQUES, INCLUDING: • • • • • •

Razor cuts Layered looks Asymmetric looks Long graduation looks Short graduation looks Looks with disconnection

ACROSS THE LOOKS INCLUDE: • Short, medium and long hair lengths • Type 1, 2, 3 and 4 Hair Classifications Images courtesy of Pivot Point International

NOTE: Look and Inspiration Guides can be a great way to visually present your own creative hair design images.

Concept Hair / 55

A R NE

Autumn 2020 / Learner of the Month

E MON

We’ve shaken up the format of the Concept Hair Learner of the Month award!

he award, which is open to all full-time learners and apprentices, aims to celebrate the amazing work that upcoming talent in the industry is producing. There is a prize usually worth £100+ for the winning hairdresser or barber each month – and you will feature in our online Hall of Fame and in the next issue of Concept Hair!

#ConceptHairLOTM

apr 2020 winner

Aug 2020 winner

sept 2020 winner

Meraki Hair Lab

The Bournemouth & Poole College

Westrow Westpark, Leeds

Marley was our final winner of the award in the previous format. She won the award on her second time of entering. Let Lew, our award judge, said he could see the progress she had made between the two entries.

Due to the lockdown we rolled over the first ‘new’ award from May to August and so our judges had to choose from hundreds of amazing entries. Christina’s amazing hair work secured her the award after a week of voting and she won a HH Simonsen VS3 Rod from Passion4hair.

Level 2 hairdresser Rose won the September award and received an amazing Steampod 3.0 from award sponsor L’Oréal Professionel. The picture she submitted for the award showed her highlighting skills and she said she feels “very honoured and fortunate” to have won, whilst thanking Westrow for the “great training” she receives.

Marley Armstrong

Marley won an Elchim hairdryer from sponsor Salons Direct. She said: “I love making people feel good about themselves and seeing them smile when they look in the mirror. I also love learning and in this industry, you can constantly grow and improve your skills.”

Christina Keen

She said: “It feels amazing, and I feel very honoured considering all the other entries were so brilliant. It makes me feel further inspired. “I was going for a glam high pony with my entry, sculpting the curls for a fuller look and fixing to fall on the shoulder – giving a waterfall effect.”

Rose Sinclair

She said: “I hope to be the best I can be, and become a better hairdresser each and every day. I love making people smile as they walk out of the salon with confidence from their hair.”

Concept Hair / 57