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Sofie Pok Dom Seeley es Ashleigh Hodg L'Oréal Cloud Nine e... and much mor
VARIABLE TEMPERATURE CONTROL
TEMPERATURE CONTROL TECHNOLOGY All hair types are UNIQUE and no one temperature fits all. Our INNOVATIVE temperature control means you’re free to choose the heat which best suits your style and hair. Continued styling with Cloud Nine at lower temperatures is proven to deliver shinier, healthier hair, reducing split-ends and breakage. It’s styling, UNIQUE TO YOU.
HAIR BY US, BEAUTY BY YOU For more information visit WWW.CLOUDNINEHAIR.COM
Summer 2020 / Editor's Word
editor's
word
W
e’ve seen the very best of the hairdressing industry this year.
The Concept Hair Apprentice of the Year regionals saw learners around the country create some INCREDIBLE looks. We can’t wait for the Grand Final – it’s going to be epic! And while the past couple of months haven’t been the easiest for salons, the SPIRIT of the hairdressing community has shone through. The way this wonderful industry has pulled together and the support it has shown key workers and the NHS has been INSPIRATIONAL. Stylists, salons and brands have held virtual pub quizzes, made resources available for free and have donated tonnes of PPE and hair products to hospitals and key workers. So what have we been doing? We’ve been filling the mag with big name interviews, stepby-steps, exercises and more. We’ve also been packing our website with educational resources, quizzes, video tutorials and useful information – check concepthairmag.co.uk and follow us on Instagram to stay in the loop!
Phil Wilkinson-Jones
EDITOR: PHIL WILKINSON-JONES phil.wj@sng-publishing.co.uk
DIGITAL EDITOR: TOM TRACEY tom.tracey@sng-publishing.co.uk
GRAPHIC DESIGNER: LEE OWEN design@sng-publishing.co.uk
ADVERTISING: PATRICK BLORE patrick.blore@sng-publishing.co.uk
EVENT MANAGER: EMILY HILTON emily.hilton@sng-publishing.co.uk
MANAGING DIRECTOR: ZOE TANNER zoe.tanner@sng-publishing.co.uk
TECHNICAL CONTRIBUTORS: VTCT, Pivot Point
PRINTERS Stephens & George, Wales
DISCLAIMER Concept Hair Magazine is published by SNG Publishing Ltd (SNG). All content and artwork is © SNG Publishing Ltd or its contributors and SNG is a trade mark of SNG Publishing Ltd. No part of Concept Hair Magazine may be copied, transmitted or published in any form or by any means without prior permission. Although SNG has made every effort to ensure the accuracy of this publication, it does not verify any claims or other information appearing in the advertisements contained in Concept Hair Magazine. It therefore cannot accept any responsibility whatsoever for consequences that may arise from the content or artwork contained in Concept Hair Magazine, including any errors or omissions or any opinions or advice given therein. This publication and its content is not a substitute for professional advice on a particular matter. Advertisements are accepted for publication in Concept Hair Magazine only upon SNG Publishing Ltd standard terms of advertising.
www.concepthairmag.co.uk Search: ConceptHairMag
of the hairdressing community “The spirithas shone through ” GENERAL ENQUIRIES To subscribe to Concept Hair Magazine call 0121 606 3016 or subscribe online at www.concepthairmag.co.uk
© SNG Publishing Ltd, 2020
Concept Hair / 01
contents
Summer 2020 / Contents
03
News
04 Digital 05 Trending 06 Concept Hair Apprentice of the Year regionals 08 20 Things I Love with Ashleigh Hodges 09 Summer 2020 trends 10
How to Create: Pastel waves
12
The Interview: Robert Eaton
14
L’Oreal Education
16
Temporary spray colour
17
#AskAndrew
18
The Interview: Dom Seeley
21
Look Book: Apprentice of the Year special
33
Colouring hair – the essential tests
34
How to Create: Relaxed hair
37
The Interview: Sofie Pok
10
49 Learner of the Month
Summer hair
43
Textured hair
44 Health & Safety 45
Business
46 Barbering: Drying & Finishing 47
EN PR T I
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40 Scissor care
Exercises
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LATEST news H
Summer 2020 / News
Hair & Beauty Charity launches relief fund air & Beauty Charity has launched a relief fund campaign on JustGiving. It is aiming to raise at least £20,000 to help those experiencing poverty and hardship. Samantha Grocutt, President of the Hair & Beauty Charity, said: “We are in unprecedented times and the hair, beauty and barbering community is suffering tremendously. We really need everyone to get behind this campaign and share the message and donate what they can – no matter how small, every £1 will make a difference to someone during this unique time we’re in. “We’re in this together and I hope people can support the charity during this time.” You can find out more and donate at www.hairandbeautycharity.org/covid-19 or head to the JustGiving page www.justgiving.com/campaign/relieffund
Jonathan Andrew mentors ClubStar Art Team
C
elebrity hairdresser Jonathan Andrew has been mentoring the Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s ClubStar Art Team.
Jonathan talked about his own career before getting handson with two live cutting and styling demos on models. He showed the team how to create multiple looks on a single model and to take striking shots for social media. Team member Jack Anthony said: “Jonathan taught us so much – you don’t need a big expensive photoshoot to create great looks and get brilliant content for social media.”
Minimum wage increase
P
lanned increases to the National Minimum Wage and National Living Wage have gone ahead. Hilary Hall, Chief Executive of the National Hair & Beauty Federation, said: “The rise will give a small increase to support stylists, barbers and beauty therapists at this difficult time.” • The National Living Wage went up on Wednesday 1 April from £8.21 to the new rate of £8.72 • The National Minimum Wage for 21 to 24-year-olds is now £8.20. For those aged 18-20 it’s now £6.45 and for 16 and 17-year-olds it’s £4.55. • The Apprentice Rate has gone up from £3.90 to £4.15.
International success for Jim and Daisy
J
im Shaw and Daisy Carter followed up their success at the British Hairdressing Awards by scooping a prize on the global stage. The duo, from TONI&GUY Billericay, won the International Hairdressing Awards Best Men’s Commercial Collection category. They won Men’s Hairdresser of the Year at the BHAs back in November 2019. “To be recognised for the second year in a row at the International Hairdressing Awards for my photographic work is unbelievable,” said Jim. “To be an ambassador for men’s hair, educate others and create the best men’s imagery is of great importance to me.”
Concept Hair / 03
Summer 2020 / Digital
3
digital column
1
2
BY TOM TRACEY, DIGITAL EDITOR
For hairdressers and barbers, the coronavirus situation has meant downing scissors, combs, paint brushes and clippers. This is an opportunity to build your online presence, learn from your hair heroes and be part of a hair community that is coming together at this difficult time. Make the most of your time not cutting hair – focus on growing your professional social media accounts, whether they’re on Instagram, Facebook or even TikTok. Demonstrate your skills on camera to share with clients using a block head or a willing family member. Or run a giveaway offering vouchers as a prize for clients to use when you go back to work. There are SO many hairdressers on Instagram and Facebook showing you styling, colouring and cutting techniques – have you EVER had a better time to take this in? There’s loads of tutorials and quizzes on our social media channels, too! Check out our new The Apprentice Diaries series with Justin Mackland on our IGTV, where Level 3 apprentice and Schwarzkopf Professional Digital Ambassador Justin will be sharing his experiences each month.
@JUSTINATISHOKA
5 instagr we’re l Scrolling through Instagram and getting our daily dose of hair inspo is one of the things getting us through lockdown. We asked the owners of five fabulous feeds how they created them. 1 Casey Coleman @caseyc_hair “I like consistency. Keeping my grid in order is essential for me. I will always post a process video in the centre that marries the images either side. On my salon page I like to post in fours - vivid, natural, vivid, other - that way, the page is set on diagonals.” 2 Dale Hince @dalehince “Instagram is one of the greatest tools in our industry. My feed has become quite versatile to reflect my versatility - I like to mix it up and show off my inner vision.”
04 / Concept Hair
Summer 2020 / Trending
4
There’s loads of advice and education available online right now – here are a few places worth checking out.
#EditorFilter
5
Trending THE NATIONAL HAIR & BEAUTY FEDERATION (NHBF)
You can find the NHBF on all social media channels @nhbfsocial and at www.nhbf.co.uk. The NHBF is great because it offers its members legal and practical advice all year round – your salon may already be a member. During the coronavirus outbreak it has been a constant source of information regarding furloughing, closures, government support and more.
ram feeds loving 3 Lexie Shay Rabbett @hair_by_lexieshay “I just love matching row vibes! It just looks so good when you click on a profile and it’s in unison! I theme my rows - some of the same hairstyle from different angles, or different styling in the same colour. Otherwise I’ll do a feature post in the middle with two either side to make it stand out.” 4 Sally Heyes @hairbysallyheyes “I really like my feed to be organised and have an aspect of symmetry. I think it’s so aesthetically pleasing to the eye and the three pictures allow me to get different angles of the hair, which is important for clients.” 5 Jordanna Cobella @jordannacobella “My feed is a reflection of my ongoing projects - moodboards, colour inspiration and experimental ideas for style and colour. My rule of thumb is to showcase my research and journey through a project, not just the end result.”
It also has useful information like dealing with tips, ensuring you are complying with the law when playing music in the salon and information about apprenticeships.
FELLOWSHIP FOR BRITISH HAIRDRESSING’S #THEKNOWLEDGE
If you’re a member of the Fellowship, you will already have access to this library of videos covering Inspiration, Education and Innovation. At the moment it’s free to everyone. New videos are added weekly along with interviews, short films and tutorials. It’s well worth taking advantage and if it works for you, why not become a member and carry on once lockdown is over? Find The Knowledge here: fellowshiphair.com/the-knowledge
SCHWARZKOPF PROFESSIONAL ESSENTIAL LOOKS Schwarzkopf Professional has made its Essential Looks educational content free to access. There are three new trends in the latest collection – punk, traditional and nature-inspired – and you can access videos, step-bysteps and trend videos to help you understand the looks they’ve created. You can even create your own sketches on headsheets, models or a blank canvas. Head to www.essentiallooks.com to get involved!
Concept Hair / 05
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We can’t wait to see “ our wonderful category winners again ”
APPRENTICE OF THE YEAR
06 / Concept Hair
Summer 2020 / AOY 2020
The Concept Hair Apprentice of the Year regionals took place earlier this year and it’s fair to say the learners ABSOLUTELY SMASHED IT!
T
he Grand Final, sadly, had to be postponed because of the Coronavirus pandemic. But that hasn’t stopped the competition being a huge success in its first year. Hundreds of you took part, creating sharp, stylish, beautiful and spectacular looks across five categories. 1. STYLING – 1920s 2. HAIR UP – Prom Hair 3. BARBERING – Peaky Blinders vs The Great Gatsby 4. COLOUR 5. AVANT-GARDE – Fire & Ice We can’t wait to see our wonderful category winners again, when they will compete to be crowned the overall Concept Hair Apprentice of the Year 2020. Check out the Look Book on Page 21 for more pictures from the regional heats, and keep an eye on concepthairmag.co.uk for details of the Grand Final. Concept Hair / 07
Summer 2020 / 20 Things I Love
20 things i
love
Ashleigh Hodges is Chancellor of the Fellowship for British Hairdressing and Global Director of the Hairdotcom art team. She also helped judge the Concept Hair Apprentice of the Year South East regional heat, so we took the chance to find out what she loves. Check out the video on our IGTV and website. What’s the best way to start
the day?
Dogs or cats?
babies! Cats! My two cats are my
With gratitude.
Who would you choose to play you in a Hollywood movie?
Emma Watson. I just think she’s fabulous. She rocks short hair, she rock s long hair and she likes to read books.
Favourite-ever hair trend?
I really like the balayage trend that’s current at the mome nt.
If you could style anyone’s hair, who would it be?
What Hogwarts house would you be in? Gryffindor!
Hogwarts.
Best non-hairdressing acc ount you follow on Instagram?
s being on What do you think of client tment? oin the phone during their app be on
A friend of mine is @__wolf sister and I just think her account is beautiful and helps keep you grounded and happy.
ll out, I’m all for it. They can chi their phone, I’m happy.
ppings? Favourite pizza to and black
Favourite celebrity haircut?
apple I really like pine a weirdo! olives. I’m such
I really like Fearne Cotton’s little sassy bob that she’s got at the moment.
eral public One thing you wished the gen s? ser res ird knew about ha
Best thing about being a ha ird
res
ser? The diversity in my week and getting to meet incredible people.
are intelligent. That we are creative, we a hairdresser. to ers There are so many lay
and why? year of your life to have a at I was going
Most overrated TV show? Big Brother probably, it was good when it started but then it definitely trailed off.
decided th 2018, because I at I wanted to. ly did things th on I re he w t ou year
What’s the question you get asked most often?
more about?
more about Everything, I wish I knew subjects in the ny ma everything. There are so to sleep and could world. I wish I didn’t have time. just read and learn all the
What inspires you?
Nature inspires me the mo st. Just walking out of my flat, I im mediately see creativity and inspirati on.
Best place on earth?
What fictional place would you most like to visit?
What do you wish you knew
Sam McKnight. The work he does is classic, beautiful and creative all at once.
Oh, for me it’s London. I love being in London.
I’d really find it fascinating to do one of the royals, but that’s just because I’d be interested in all their gossip.
st Which was the be
Who is you ultimate hair idol?
ashleigh_hodges_hair
As soon as people find ou t you’re a hairdresser they say, ‘so wh at would you do with my hair if I let you do anything?’
Summer 2020 / Summer Hair
Jonathan Andrew BRAND AMBASSADOR
The BIG return of Ombre • So many people have had to grow out their colour over the past few months. Watch out for plenty of accenting on a natural ombre finish. • Natural hair – post lockdown “au naturel” locks as clients have had time to focus on and love their natural hair, let’s wait on lots of variations of natural waves and curls. • Summer blondes! People will be growing out highlights and full head colours, so expect lighter balayage and more highlights for a blonde beachy look.
men’s THE LONG & SHORT OF IT ... • Very short aggressive French crops and short textured hair on guys. With more men growing out shaved heads, I expect to see this becoming a trend. • On the flipside, longer hair for the same reason – guys getting used to having longer lockdown locks and letting it continue to grow.
Trends
summer hair 2020
Women’s
What new looks will be all over our Insta feeds when lockdown comes to an end? Fudge Professional’s Jonathan Andrew and Tracy Hayes predict the Summer 2020 hair trends
Tracy Hayes
HEAD OF TECHNICAL TRAINING
Embracing the new & unexpected! • We will see more colourful hair to bring some light after this strange time in our lives! Clients with root issues will be feeling brave and empowered to embrace the new and unexpected! So rather than their regular colour, the opportunity to incorporate interesting tones and add bright bold statements to their natural colour will be out there. • Younger clients will be sporting lots of grown out bleaches and will be seeing their natural colour for the first time in years, so this may be time to embrace more natural colours. We may see a return to 90s trends – more grungy, block colours with bands of colour running through the hair. • Blondes, who will always be a blonde, will be in desperate need of a lift. So we will see lots of face framing to lift the face, not so subtle but chunky lights almost seeing bands of colour complementing the cut and layers of hair.
Ombre French for ‘shaded’ and describes a gradually blended hair effect, typically from a lighter shade at the top to a darker shade at the bottom. Concept Hair / 09
Summer 2020 / How To
how to create
Cloud Nine’s
Pastel Waves for days
Pastel hair is huge right now and we just love these soft tousled waves. Cloud Nine shows us how to achieve maximum body and bounce with glamourous waves paired with a messy braid that will take you from day to night.
HOT TIP Using Cloud Nine’s Airshot Hairdryer with Tourmaline vitamin-infused ceramic heating elements and the mineral-infused Curling Wand helps to lock in moisture, seal the cuticle layer and minimise frizz.
PREP Start by prepping the hair with Cloud Nine’s Magical Quick Dry Potion. This hair hero not only works to protect the hair against heat but also reduces drying time by up to 50%.
10 / Concept Hair
STEP 1 Using the Airshot, direct the airflow downwards through the hair, adding texture while drying by twisting the hair into braids to give more volume.
Summer 2020 / How To
HOT TIP Using lower temperatures is proven to make your colour last longer.
Taking the award-winning Curling Wand, section the hair and curl tightly in a direction away from the face and leave the curls to cool.
@cloudninec9
STEPS 2-3
Once cool, brush through the curls using the Cloud Nine Texture Comb to soften and create a gorgeously-tousled look.
FINISH To finish, take a section of hair from behind the ear and twist into a messy braid and fix with a bobby pin on the opposite side.
Share your take on this look using
@CLOUDNINEC9 Up to
60% off
finished LOOK
Exclusive student offers Cloud Nine, proud sponsor of Concept Hair Apprentice of the Year, is offering students exclusive discounts of up to 60% off its products. For more details, contact the Cloud Nine Trade team on 0845 2003563 . Concept Hair / 11
Summer 2020 / The Interview
Concept Hair: Hi Rob, how has life been since you were named Hairdresser of the Year? Robert Eaton: Very busy! Winning at the awards brings so many exciting opportunities. The situation with Coronavirus changed the direction slightly as we are all focusing on our salons and teams, but our values of artistic excellence will help us come back stronger than ever. CH: How did it feel to win the top prize and also enter the British Hairdressing Awards Hall of Fame? RE: Incredible! Entering the Hall of Fame is a massive achievement in itself, but to then win British was mindblowing. After working so hard for many years to reach this point it was wonderful to win – not only for myself but for our family business. On the night I was thrilled to be up there with everyone and winning was a moment I will never forget. CH: What inspires the looks you create in your collections? RE: My British collection, Chromatic, was inspired by my love of colour blocking. I wanted to bring to life an editorial-inspired colour collection, almost as if you were looking at the pages of a fashion magazine.
He’s the current British Hairdresser of the Year, Creative Director at Russell Eaton Salons in Leeds and Barnsley and Wella Professional’s Technical Director. We caught up with the ever-friendly inspiration that is Robert Eaton.
rob
the interview CH: How do you deal with setbacks? RE: I don’t give up! There have been plenty of shows I didn’t win or auditions that didn’t progress. But I learnt from what went wrong to ensure that next time, I was even more prepared.
“I love that feeling when a client leaves happy and in love with their hair!”
12 / Concept Hair
Summer 2020 / The Interview Pictures are from Chromatic, Robert Eaton's British Hairdresser of the Year winning collection.
CH: Did you always want to be a hairdresser growing up? RE: Yes – I started working in the family salon on Saturdays from the age of 11. I loved it straight away and knew it was the career for me. At school I was always quite artistic, so if I hadn’t become a hairdresser, I think I would have pursued a career in graphic design.
b ert eaton
CH: Do you still find time to get behind the chair in the salon? RE: Yes, I love working on clients! I still work in both our Leeds and Barnsley salons on a weekly basis and it is still my favourite part of the job. I love that feeling when a client leaves happy and in love with their hair!
BY PHIL WILKINSON-JONES
@robertjeaton
Brush up on “ skills, learn new techniques and innovate!
”
CH: What’s the best way to use the extra time that hairdressers have right now? RE: Education! This is a great opportunity for any hairdresser to brush up on skills, learn new techniques and innovate. There is lots of education available online for free, including the Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s #THEKNOWLEDGE platform. Social media is full of ideas and inspiration, but focus on one area at a time and perfect that, rather than trying to do everything. CH: What does the future hold for you? RE: This is a very exciting stage of my career. I feel there is lots more I can offer, not only in terms of developing the Eaton brand but also by giving back to our incredible industry in the way of mentoring others and sharing with everyone what a fantastic industry it is. Concept Hair / 13
Summer 2020 / Products
how to use
Temporary Colour spray
We love experimenting with colour! Manic Panic's range of Amplified colour hair sprays lets you enjoy a brand new shade without committing to anything permanent.
STEP 1 Perform a patch test to test colour and ensure no irritation
STEP 2 Cover up any surfaces you don't want to get stained!
STEP 3 Shake the bottle thoroughly to get the colour ready
STEP 4 Spray about 20cm from hair in short bursts
STEP 5 Angle the bottle (rather than hold upright) for best results
R
emember that the colour outcome will depend on a number of factors, including how light or blonde the hair is before you dye it. The texture, thickness and porosity of the hair can all affect the end colour.
STEP 6 To remove, thoroughly wash hair with shampoo
Product features 100% VEGAN FRIENDLY AND CRUELTY-FREE FREE FROM PPD, PARABENS, AMMONIA, RESORCINOL, PHTHALATE AND GLUTEN COLOUR COMES OUT AFTER ONLY ONE WASH
16 / Concept Hair
Manic Panic was created in 1977 by sisters and former Blondie back-up singers Tish & Snooky. From its punk roots, the brand has become a global sensation – its colours have been worn by celebrities including Katy Perry, Kylie Jenner, Jared Leto and Kim Kardashian. The Amplified formula was introduced in 2005 and Manic Panic’s range of colours is also available as semi-permanent colour creams.
#askandrew
Celebrity hairdresser Andrew Barton answers your questions. Here are a couple of questions that are pretty relatable right now. What should I be doing while I’m not at college or working?
Andrew: Practise on those you live with – if they will let you! Practise lots of styling techniques so they become second nature to you. Perfect your consultation skills by role-playing and asking someone in the house to be your ‘client’. This will help build your confidence as you’ll see where you can work to get better. I’m not feeling very creative – what would you suggest?
Andrew: I gain creative inspiration from almost everything but firstly you must make sure you are looking after yourself. Go outside once a day, even just for a quick walk, and eat properly – don’t just fill up on junk! I love looking at fashion stories online and watching films. I always see something that inspires and makes me think about hair – whether it be COLOUR or STYLES or even just an overall feel to explore. Create Pinterest boards for different themes that you like. At some point you will be back at work and/or college and these will help you plan for end-of-year shows and competitions. Get in touch on Instagram to put your questions to Andrew. Just remember to use the hashtag #AskAndrew and tag @concepthairmag
JUSTIN HARRIS PHOTOGRAPHY
Fashion ~Beaut y ~Hair Based in Swansea with fully equipped professional photographic studio. Available throughout the UK & worldwide. Extensive experience shooting fashion & hair. Get in touch NOW to bring your images to the next level!
justinharrisphotography
justinharrisphotographyuk
www.justinharrisphotography.co.uk 07971 487799 01792 898544
@andrewbartonable
Concept Hair: Hi Dom, great to talk to you! How did you get into hairdressing? Dom Seeley: I got started when I was about 13, doing hairdressing one day a week. After two years I qualified with NVQ Level 1 and at 16 I became one of the youngest ever to achieve NVQ Level 2 and 3. I wouldn’t say I fell into hair as I struggled for so long, but one day it clicked and I found a real passion and desire for it. CH: What was your first step into the world of celebrity? DS: GHD put a call out for people to assist at Milan Fashion Week so I commented and crazily enough, within a week I was asked to be a part of the team. I went on to assist people like LUKE HERSHESON and work on the Jonathan Ross Show, where I assisted on ZARA LARSSON’s hair. Brands also started to be aware of me as I was posting my work to my Instagram and building a following. CH: Your job takes you all over the world – what does a typical day in your life look like? DS: My job is crazy – one day I could be on a plane and the next day be on a shoot. Last year I was flown to Dubai for HUDA BEAUTY to do Huda’s hair. Four days later we went to Mumbai as Huda was up for an award at Vogue India’s Women of the Year awards. A couple of days later we were on a flight to Washington DC for a Facebook conference! In three-and-a-half days I travelled halfway across the world taking in three cities and five different hair looks. CH: What shoots stand out as being the most fun to work on?
Just some of the celeb looks created by Dom: Huda Kattan, Amber Davies, Olivia Culpo and Bella Hadid
18 / Concept Hair
DS: The shoots are all so crazy and different and I take and learn from each one. But my favourite was for WISHFUL Skincare for Huda Beauty. It was super stripped back with a powerful message, just refreshing to see and be a part of in a world that can be pretty false and photoshopped.
CH: Who is your biggest inspiration in hairdressing? DS: There are a few! JEN ATKIN is the woman who saw me in a crowded room and gave me a voice and platform. Without her I would not be where I am. ADIR ABERGEL is a genius when it comes to hair. He sees hair differently to anyone I’ve met before. GUIDO PALAU and SAM MCKNIGHT basically make the trends at fashion week each season and the looks they create filter down through the hair industry and end up in salons – these guys create magic. CH: If you could give some advice to someone just starting out, what would it be? DS: Be driven, stay focused, be humble and kind, stay punctual and learn the craft. Don’t run before you can walk, there is always something to learn. CH: If you could style anyone’s hair, who would it be and what would you do? DS: ZENDAYA changes up her look every time you see her so she’d be a great person to have as a muse. I’d love to work on a BEYONCÉ tour – who wouldn’t? It’d be great fun to work with KHLOÉ KARDASHIAN. I’ve worked with her sister KENDALL and she’s so genuine so I imagine Khloe to be the same. CH: How important has social media been in your career? DS: Social media is crucial. It’s your CV, it’s what gets people and brands to notice you and it shows to the world what you can offer and deliver. Social media is about selling yourself in the best way. Keep it clean, direct and to the point while showing a part of yourself people want to follow. CH: What is your favourite thing about hairdressing? DS: I love hairdressing – it’s always evolving. The possibilities are endless, it’s so diverse and you can truly be your own boss. I love where I am career-wise and to me this is just the start.
media is crucial. It’s your CV “Social and it gets people to notice you ”
Summer 2020 / The Interview
hairdressing “– theI lovepossibilities are endless, it’s so diverse and you can truly be your own boss
”
Dom the interview
Seeley @domseeley
Kendall Jenner and Huda Kattan can’t live without him. Meet globe-trotting hair artist and stylist to the stars Dom Seeley.
Concept Hair / 19
2020 RELIEF FUND We urgently need your help to build signi cant funds to enable us to support professionals in the hair and beauty industry who are facing sudden hardship. Please give what you can today. Together we can get through this. justgiving/campaign/relie und
Registered Charity number 1166298 T: 01234 831888 E: info@hairandbeautycharity.org W: www.hairandbeautycharity.org
k o o L ook B EN PR T I
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For this Look Book we've decided to do something a little different. The looks created at the Concept Hair Apprentice of the Year regional events were so INCREDIBLE that we just had to show them off. So this Look Book is not only #HAIRINSPO but a celebration of what you, the future of our industry, have been creating! Every picture from the regional heats is available on our website. Go to concepthairmag.co.uk/events
STYLING 1920S
Summer 2020 / Look Book
Concept Hair / 23
HAIR UP PROM HAIR
Summer 2020 / Look Book
26 / Concept Hair
BARBERING PEAKY BLINDERS VS THE GREAT GATSBY
COLOURING
Summer 2020 / Look Book
Concept Hair / 29
Summer 2020 / Look Book
AVANT-GARDE FIRE & ICE 30 / Concept Hair
Summer 2020 / Testing
colouring hair: the
essential tests
Are more clients asking for the Insta hair of their dreams? Debbie Digby, Chief Executive of Passion4Hair, says don’t forget to carry out essential tests before letting your creative juices flow.
A
s trends change it’s vital we update and transform our skills as stylists. Today, diverse looks and fashions mean the needs and desires of our clients are ever changing.
Skin Test • Skin testing is important, especially if a client has been colouring their hair for many years. • Following manufacturer’s guidelines is best practice and will help avoid any client reactions.
Strand Test
HOT TIP Keep written records of all test results and conversations you have with your client
• If you are doing a complex service or a new service for a client, my advice would be to carry out a strand test. • You can strand test on or off the head depending on what you are testing. • Samples should be cut from inconspicuous places, preferably in a couple of different parts of the head. • Strand testing will allow you to pre-plan your services with accuracy.
Incompatibility Test • Take a small piece of hair and put it into a solution as directed by the manufacturer’s guidelines for the product you are using. • You are checking for adverse reactions that can be seen by the hair or lotion heating up, changing to an unexpected colour or bubbling. Incompatibility test
Porosity Test • Porosity is the measure of the compactness of the cuticle layers of the hair. • Take one strand of hair that is clean with no product on and put it into a clear container of room temperature water. • If the hair floats it has low porosity, if it settles midway it is normal and if it sinks it has high porosity.
Stretch/Pull test Porosity test
• Take about 10 clean wet hairs between your index finger and your thumb on both hands, one inch apart. • Pull the hair and observe the stretch. It should easily stretch one third (to an inch and a third) and immediately return to its former one-inch. • If it is difficult to stretch or appears to be stiff, it needs moisture for more flexibility. If it stretches more than one third and appears ‘baggy’ when it returns, it needs protein for strength. A sample colour technical sheet is available to download at:
Stretch/pull test
concepthairmag.co.uk Concept Hair / 33
Summer 2020 / How To
how to create
relaxed hair LOOK
From Pivot Point LAB, a bespoke VTCT learning resource, this step-by-step takes us through the procedures for a virgin sodium hydroxide relaxer service, creating a smoother and more manageable look.
PREP This hair has not been chemically treated. Note: The hair must not be shampooed prior to this service. A pre-relaxing treatment may be required to even out the porosity.
step 3 On the back-right section, use 0.6cm-1.25cm horizontal partings to apply base cream to the scalp. Use a dabbing motion to apply. Repeat in this section, using vertical partings. Repeat on the remaining sections. 34 / Concept Hair
step 1 The diagram shows the head will be sectioned in five sections to perform the service. Horizontal and diagonal-back partings will be used to apply the relaxer with 0.6cm partings.
step 4 Begin application at the top of the back-right section. Use 0.6cm horizontal partings and apply about 1.25cm from the roots through the midlengths, but not to the ends. Gently place the hair out of the way. Apply to the top and bottom of each parting.
Use the tail comb to take random partings through the head and examine the scalp to ensure the service may be performed. To avoid scalp irritation, do not touch the scalp with the tail comb.
step 5 When the section is completed, gently bring the lengths down and repeat on the left side using the same technique.
step 2 After sectioning the hair, apply base cream around the entire hairline and to the tops of the ears to protect these areas from the relaxer product.
step 6 Left side, in front of the ear. Use 0.6cm diagonal-back partings starting at the top. Apply in the same manner. Lay completed sections back away from the face then move to the right side and repeat.
Summer 2020 / How To
step 7 Move to the top section. Using horizontal partings, start at the back of the section and apply to the bottom of each parting first, directing the hair towards the front.
step 11 Complete the application by applying to the entire headline.
step 15 Perform a strand test. Clear away excess product from the root of the hair using the back or tail of the comb. Then press the back of the comb against the root area to determine the degree of relaxation that has taken place and check the condition of the hair.
step 8 Apply to the top of each parting, directing and positioning the hair away from the face.
step 1 2 Return to first section. Use back of tail comb to smooth each parting. Smooth the top of the strand first and rest on your palm, then the bottom, directing it upwards. Repeat on the second back section and then the sides.
step 9 Return to first section. Use 0.6cm partings and apply relaxer to root area. Then to the porous ends. Work to the bottom then bring the lengths down. Repeat on the back and side sections.
step 1 3 Move to the top section and again work from the back towards the front. Smooth the bottom and then the top of each parting, resting the strand on your palm.
step 1 6 If the desired degree of relaxation has occurred, rinse and use post-relaxer treatments and neutralising shampoo following the manufacturer’s instructions. Style as required, avoiding excess tension.
step 1 0 Work from the back to the front of the top section, applying to the roots and ends. Again, apply to the bottom of each parting then to the top to keep the hair out of the face.
step 1 4 You may also choose to work with the strand flat against the head in this or other areas of the head. Then check and smooth the entire hairline.
Carefully and properly relaxed hair retains a healthy, soft appearance. Any number of finishes are possible for the client with relaxed hair.
finisheD look Courtesy of Pivot Point International, Inc Š
Concept Hair / 35
Hair: Fellowship for British Hairdressing F.A.M.E. Team 2019; Lora Griffin, Tania Faenza, Ashley Cockrell, Alastair Jubbs. Creative Direction: Errol Douglas MBE | Photography: Barry Jeffery | Make-up: Branka Vorkapic | Styling: Desiree Lederer | Production: Kate Jeffery | Products: Goldwell
Join ClubStar today to enjoy free entry for some Fellowship events and give your career the best start possible!
The hairdressing industry is very competitive and busy business to be in, one where experience counts for everything! ClubStar membership is a sure fire way to get ahead, it’s the first step on the Fellowship ladder for hairdressers aged 16-25 and the ClubStar Art Team provides the best head start with mentoring, education and plenty of exciting opportunities.
fellowshiphair.com | info@fellowshiphair.com
the interview
SOFIE POK BY PHIL WILKINSON-JONES
LA-BASED BARBER SOFIE POK IS KNOWN TO HER ARMY OF INSTAGRAM FOLLOWERS AS STAYGOLD. SHE IS A GLOBAL AMBASSADOR FOR BABYLISS, A PLATFORM EDUCATOR AND HAS TWICE BEEN VOTED FEMALE BARBER OF THE YEAR AT BARBERCON.
Concept Hair: Hi Sofie! How did you first get into barbering? Sofie pok: Hello! I got into barbering in college when I was seeking a new creative outlet. My friend recommended hair school after she asked me to trim her ends (I had no clue what I was doing, but did it anyways with paper cutting shears lol). So I figured I’ve got nothing to lose, let’s try it out!
“I LOVE BEING ABLE TO CHANGE PEOPLE'S EMOTIONS THROUGH A HAIRCUT”
ch: What is your favourite thing about barbering? SP: I love being able to change people’s emotions through a haircut and now through education. Barbering is also super fast-paced and I love how different each day is. It’s such an art form, being able to shape all types of hair on different head shapes. ch: Who is your all-time barbering idol and why? SP: I don’t have a main barbering idol, but I do appreciate all influences from as many directions as possible. ch: What’s been the proudest moment of your career so far? SP: My proudest moment is being in the barbering education book for Pivot Point. It was a full circle experience – I had learned from that book when I was in school and now I am part of the newly-added system for barbers.
Concept Hair / 37
Summer 2020 / The Interview
CH: What advice would you give to anyone just starting out in barbering? SP: To just not overthink anything and take everything light-hearted. Allow yourself to be patient with your current state and just keep working on elevating your craft every day, and to be a sponge to everything that’s out there and available. Just go for it! The greatest achievements are gained by the people who are fearless and work against their doubts. Talent in barbering is gained through practice… no one just wakes up and has the skill set, so it makes you appreciate the journey once you get the hang of it.
SOFIE “THE GREATEST ACHIEVEMENTS ARE GAINED BY THE PEOPLE WHO ARE FEARLESS”
CH: After making your Salon International debut last year, can we expect to see you in the UK again any time soon? Sp: It was so fun to be at Salon International. I loved the show and how creative they allowed me to be and I HOPE that I can come back soon.
38 / Concept Hair
Summer 2020 / The Interview
CH: How did you become an ambassador for BaByliss? Sp: Through Instagram and networking with people at shows. My Instagram at the time helped me a lot because I was already using it to market myself and they saw that as an opportunity to marry the idea of me collaborating with their products. CH: Was it always a dream of yours to have your own brand? Sp: I actually never knew before that it would be what I wanted. Over time, the ideas evolved and I grew with it. Now, I’m always looking for ways to grow and expand my brand and find new ways to help elevate myself. CH: Your Instagram is full of advice for young barbers – how important is it to you to support the next generation? Sp: VERY important. We should all work towards making the industry a better place. We all evolve and we must work together to help the industry grow. CH: What does the future hold? Sp: The future is very bright! Releasing something new this year (I can’t say what yet), new Gold Zone classes will be in motion and I’m just very excited every day to find new opportunities to grow in all aspects of my life.
Quickfire Questions
staygold31
WHAT’S YOUR FAVOURITE OF YOUR TATTOOS? My back piece – Earth Dragon
FAVOURITE BAND? Don’t have a current favourite band, but I love the deep house genre.
“WE SHOULD ALL WORK TOWARDS MAKING THE INDUSTRY A BETTER PLACE”
WHAT’S THE BEST HOLIDAY YOU’VE EVER BEEN ON? Going to Bali was one of the most relaxing trips I’ve ever been on. The country was amazing and it was definitely the most refreshing trip I’ve had in the last few years. DO YOU HAVE ANY PHOBIAS? I hate insects lol like crazyyyy
STRANGEST REQUEST YOU’VE HAD FROM A CLIENT? Hmm… maybe shaving their hairy back and chest!
Concept Hair / 39
Summer 2020 / Scissor Care
Summer 2020 / AOY 2020
bettertons Looking sharp
“YOU CAN TELL THERE'S A CHIP IN YOUR BLADE IF THE HAIR IS PULLING OR SNAGGING”
EVER WONDERED WHY YOUR SCISSORS SUDDENLY AREN'T CUTTING AS WELL AS THEY USED TO? IT HAPPENS TO US ALL, BUT WHY? BETTERTONS HAS THE ANSWERS.
Blunt Edge
Blade Chips
Over time, all blades will start to lose their sharp edge. This will be noticeable because instead of the hair being cut cleanly, you will start to feel the blades bending the hair. This will affect the quality of your cut, and leave your client with damaged ends. If this is the case you need to send your scissors to be sharpened. How quickly a blade starts to go blunt depends on the amount of use and the quality of the scissor.
There are a few ways in which you can get a chip in your blade and no, they don’t just appear! The most common causes are dropping your scissors, catching your comb while cutting, and from product and residue in your client’s hair. You can normally tell there is a chip if the hair is pulling, or ‘snagging’, when you cut through the hair. An easy way to check your blade for chips is to gently run the top of your nail backwards along the blade,
“BLADES WITH A BLUNT EDGE CAN CAUSE DAMAGED ENDS” 40 / Concept Hair
this will enable you to feel the uneven edge. Do not continue to cut with damaged edges, as this will shorten the life of your scissor, and annoy your clients! Screw Tension The tension of your screw will also affect how your scissors cut. Too loose and the hair will fold when cutting. Too tight and the blades will grind together, and damage your client’s ends. To learn how to fix this, head to concepthairmag.co.uk
Bettertons offers a scissor sharpening service, for details visit: gebetterton.co.uk
WAHL.CO.UK
STRONGER TOGETHER Share your stories from behind the front lines of barbering and hairdressing to participate in our new project and receive rewards
Stronger Together is a new initiative to collect your stories during the lock down and an opportunity for you to share your advice for how the industry can come back stronger.
Wahl wants to help you get back on your feet, so we have a number of rewards available to everyone that participates:
100
CLIPPERS TO BE WON
+ ÂŁ20 OFF at wahl.co.uk
ENTER
at wahl.co.uk/stronger-together
Summer 2020 / Exercises
exercises
VTCT provides Pivot Point LAB, an online learning platform, to support its Hair & Beauty qualifications. The resources available in LAB help you develop your skills and knowledge and prepare for qualification assessments. Learn through interactive lessons, quizzes, videos and more. Ask your training provider if they’re using LAB and get started today! Vocational Training Charitable Trust is a specialist awarding organisation offering vocational and technical qualifications in a range of service sectors. These exercises have been created using VTCT and Pivot Point industry expertise to test your knowledge on summer hair, textured hair, fashion hair, drying and finishing hair, business skills, and health & safety.
If you would like to find out more about how one of VTCT’s courses could help further your career, check out the website: www.vtct.org.uk
Discover more about Pivot Point Education at www.pivotpoint.co.uk VTCT and Pivot Point are now offering all learners in the Hair & Beauty sector these resources for free. Ask your educator about signing up for Pivot Point LAB.
SUMMER HAIR Answer the following true or false questions.
Q1
Q2
When a bride plans to wear a strapless dress, the shoulders and neck are important factors to consider in the consultation.
Applying too much tension to the hair when braiding can cause traction alopecia.
ANSWER
TRUE
FALSE
ANSWER
TRUE
FALSE
ANSWER
Q3
High humidity does not affect hair that has been heat-styled. TRUE
Q4
Q5
Dry shampoo can be used to expand the time between shampoos and add texture to the hair.
A fishtail plait consists of three hair strands crossed over each other to create a criss-cross effect.
FALSE
ANSWER
TRUE
FALSE
ANSWER
TRUE
FALSE
Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free 42 / Concept Hair
Summer 2020 / Exercises
TEXTURED HAIR Choose the correct answer to each of the following multiple-choice questions.
Q1
Which one of the following hair types has a Z pattern and spring curl?
Ans.
Q4
An uneven effect will be created when cutting curly hair that is‌
a
3a
a
Completely wet
b
3c
b
Completely dry
c
4a
c
Chemically treated
d
4b
d
Partly wet and partly dry
Q2
a b c d
Q3
Which one of the following is the best advice for a client with relaxed hair, to maintain a smooth look with natural volume?
Ans.
Q5
a
Hair that has been coloured with a semi-permanent colour
b
Hair with a thioglycolate relaxer on the mid-lengths
c
Hair that last had sewn-in wefts two months ago
d
Hair with a 4cm growth, following a hydroxide relaxer
To use straightening irons daily To dry wrap the hair before bed To apply hairspray before bed To sleep on a satin pillow
Which one of the following is the most suitable product to help prepare and protect type 3 and 4 hair, when creative styling?
a
Mousse
b
Gel spray
c
Oil/moisturisers
d
Heat protectors
Which one of the following is a contraindication to a sodium hydroxide relaxer service?
Ans.
Ans.
Ans.
Image courtesy of Pivot Point International
Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free Concept Hair / 43
Summer 2020 / Exercises
HEALTH & SAFETY Complete the following multiple-choice questions by choosing the correct answer.
Q1
A razor blade should be disposed of…
Ans.
Q4
Which one of the following is a hazard?
a
In a closed bin
a
Client tripping over a cable
b
In a sharps box
b
An electric shock
c
Wrapped in paper
c
Client slipping on a wet floor
d
In a general waste bin
d
A broken chair
Q2
Which one of the following is an employer’s Ans. responsibility under RIDDOR?
a
To report a work-related major injury to environmental health
b
To provide training on manual handling
c
To assess the risk to health, from hazardous products
d
Q3
Q5
Which one of the following is the most suitable fire extinguisher for a fire in a waste paper bin?
a
Carbon dioxide
b
Powder
c
Water
d
Foam
To provide correct storage for client data
Good personal hygiene refers to…
a
Having clean, styled hair and washing regularly
b
Washing daily and maintaining good posture
c
Showering daily, wearing deodorant and clean clothes
d
Showering and brushing teeth daily and washing clothes weekly
Ans.
Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free 44 / Concept Hair
Ans.
Ans.
Summer 2020 / Exercises
BUSINESS Answer the following multiple-choice questions.
Q1
Which one of the following is not a requirement of an employment contract?
Ans.
Q4
Which one of the following best describes ways of keeping up to date with current trends?
a
The contract needs to include or confirm the location of the grievance procedures
a
Read fashion journals and manufacturers’ instructions
b
The contract needs to include hours of work and holiday entitlements
b
Read fashion magazines and visit trade websites
c
The contract needs to detail the job role
c
Read newspapers and watch fashion TV
d
The contract needs to be a formal written document
d
Watch TV and read trade journals
Q2
Which one of the following is the most important reason for continuous professional development?
Ans.
Q5
Which one of the following is not covered by the Equality Act?
a
To help maintain and increase client numbers
a
Age
b
It promotes a professional image
b
Religion
c
To help achieve an annual pay rise
c
Disability
d
It looks good on your CV
d
Qualifications
Q3
Which one of the following is not a requirement of the Data Protection Act?
a
To keep information safe
b
Information kept must be accurate
c
To provide third parties with access to information
d
Information kept must be relevant to the business
Ans.
Ans.
Ans.
Image courtesy of Pivot Point International
Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free Concept Hair / 45
Summer 2020 / Exercises
BARBERING: DRYING & FINISHING Complete the following multiple-choice questions by choosing the correct answer.
Q1
Which one of the following would be the most suitable brush to achieve a textured, blow-dry finish?
Ans.
Q4
A round brush would be the most suitable for achieving which one of the following blow-dry finishes?
a
Vent
a
Flat top
b
Round
b
Quiff
c
Paddle
c
French crop
d
Military
d
Mohawk
Q2
Which one of the following is the most suitable look for a finger dry?
a
A one-length cut
b
A short graduated cut
c
d
Q5
Which one of the following products contains ingredients that protect the hair, provides hold and is applied to wet hair?
a
Hair spray
b
Wax
c
Styling cream
d
Serum
Ans.
A long layered cut
A crew cut
To prevent hair damage, the dryer should be directed‌
a
Close to the hair
b
Up the hair lengths
c
Towards the roots
d
In the direction of the cuticle
Ans.
Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free 46 / Concept Hair
Image courtesy of Pivot Point International
Q3
Ans.
Ans.
Summer 2020 / Exercises
INSPIRATION Create a Cutting Inspirations Guide, to use with your clients and support your cut and finish consultations.
YOUR GUIDE CAN BE: • Created on a mobile device and include web links and/or videos • A Look Book • A Mood Board
IMAGES TO COVER A RANGE OF CREATIVELY CUT LOOKS AND TECHNIQUES, INCLUDING: • • • • • •
Razor cuts Layered looks Asymmetric looks Long graduation looks Short graduation looks Looks with disconnection
ACROSS THE LOOKS INCLUDE: • Short, medium and long hair lengths • Type 1, 2, 3 and 4 Hair Classifications Images courtesy of Pivot Point International
NOTE: Look and Inspiration Guides can be a great way to visually present your own creative hair design images.
Concept Hair / 47
A R NE
TH
OF
TH
Could you be the next Concept Hair Learner of the Month? There are great prizes up for grabs and we'll even put your picture in the mag! Head to our website or Instagram to find out how you can enter.
R
LE
Summer 2020 / Learner of the Month
E MON
Karine Jackson Salon January 2020 winner
Gina Conway Salon February 2020 winner
Crystal won the December award and a £100 bundle from IdHair after her boss described her as “the most determined learner I’ve ever met”. Crystal said winning reminded her that hairdressing was the right career for her. “I want to focus on colouring and styling and become incredible at those things rather than being alright at everything,” she said.
Jacqueline was nominated for her “consistent passion and willingness to learn” and won a £100 bundle from V76. She loves bold colours and precise haircuts, and would like to see a rise in highend Afro-Caribbean salons. Jacqueline also wants to help rid hairdressing of negative stereotypes and said winning Learner of the Month was “amazing”.
Irilda won February’s award and a £100 bundle from Indola after being nominated for her “fearless, go-getter attitude”. She described winning as “very special” and said she loves to make people feel beautiful. Irilda is working to become one of the best stylists in the salon and to build trust with her clients.
Phoebe Mclavy
Irilda Paja
Jacqueline Kankam-Hoppe
Crystal Ault JamesB Hair, Bristol December 2019 winner
Reds Hair Co march 2020 winner Phoebe competed in Concept Hair’s Apprentice of the Year competition and is a member of the UK WorldSkills squad. She won March’s Learner of the Month award and a £100 bundle from HairFlair after being nominated by her lecturer. Phoebe dreams of travelling the world doing hair and owning her own salon.
Concept Hair / 49