winter 2019
INSIDE...
INTERVIEW WITH SOPHIA HILTON
L’Oréal Professionnel Exclusive on Colour Correction BARBERING HOW TO FROM MIKE TAYLOR
r o f e n i z a g a m y s l r n e o s s e the r d r i a h e c i t n e appr
r u o l o c f o n e e u q W E the I V R E T N I n o t l 11 i E H G A P a i Soph
Winter 2019 / Editor's Note
S
Welcome to the second edition of Concept Hair Magazine
ince we last saw you in September, we’ve had the pleasure of meeting so many amazing hairdressing students and apprentices across all of our college visits and at Salon International – what an incredibly talented bunch you are! If we’re yet to have had the delight of meeting you, why not get in touch and book us in to visit your college? We’d also love to hear from you and see pics of your cuts, styles and colours… we may even publish them!
2019 is set to be an incredible year for Concept Hair; we’re sponsoring ISA’s Salon Cymru competition in April, will have a new magazine for you in May, and are starting off the year with an interview with the awe-inspiring Sophia Hilton of Not Another Salon. We’ve also been lucky enough to experience the glitz and glam of the 2018 British Hairdressing Awards, and of course there are lots of How To’s, exercises, and an improved Look Book to keep you inspired. “From all at Concept Hair, thank you for welcoming us into the world of hair. We’re loving it and we can’t wait for you to get stuck into this issue and join us for the ride.”
e for magazin sers y l n o e es th hairdr e ic t n e appr
Celia Matthews Managing Editor
www.concepthairmag.co.uk Search: ConceptHairMag
COVER CREDITS: L'Oréal Professionnel
MANAGING EDITOR: CELIA MATTHEWS celia.matthews@sng-publishing.co.uk ASSISTANT EDITOR: HOLLY CARTER holly.carter@sng-publishing.co.uk DIGITAL EDITOR: TOM TRACEY tom.tracey@sng-publishing.co.uk GRAPHIC DESIGNER: LEE OWEN design@sng-publishing.co.uk TECHNICAL CONTRIBUTOR: VTCT ADVERTISING: ZOË TANNER zoë.tanner@sng-publishing.co.uk PRINTERS Stephens & George, England
DISCLAIMER Concept Hair Magazine is published by SNG Publishing Ltd (SNG). All content and artwork is © SNG Publishing Ltd or its contributors and SNG is a trade mark of SNG Publishing Ltd. No part of Concept Hair Magazine may be copied, transmitted or published in any form or by any means without prior permission. Although SNG has made every effort to ensure the accuracy of this publication, it does not verify any claims or other information appearing in the advertisements contained in Concept Hair Magazine. It therefore cannot accept any responsibility whatsoever for consequences that may arise from the content or artwork contained in Concept Hair Magazine, including any errors or omissions or any opinions or advice given therein. This publication and its content is not a substitute for professional advice on a particular matter. Advertisements are accepted for publication in Concept Hair only upon SNG Publishing Ltd standard terms of advertising.
GENERAL ENQUIRIES To subscribe to Concept Hair Magazine call 0870 774 3049 or subscribe online at www.concepthairmag.co.uk
© SNG Publishing Ltd, 2019
Concept Hair / 01
Winter 2019 \ Contents
contents
45
01
Editor’s Note
04 Latest News 06 Trending 08 Competition: Kent Hairbrushes
42
11
10
Top Tips: Plaiting & Twisting
11
The Interview: Sophia Hilton
14
Colour Correction: Formula & Method
16
Superstar Salons
18
Creating the Perfect Salon
20
License to Cut?
22
Hairdressers Helping Hairdressers
23
The Salon International Giveaway
26
A Day in the Life of… a Colour Specialist
28
Colour Correction with L’Oréal Professionnel
30
20 Things I Love with Robert Eaton
31
Rush to Success
32
Meet the Colour Rebels
34
A Head for Business
35
Learning the Ropes
36
En-ABLE-ing Education
37
Isn’t a Blade Just a Blade?
38
Hairdressers of the Future?
39
App-rentice
40 Long Live the Queens 42
44 Luke Benson’s Ideal Apprentice 45
02 / Concept Hair
British Hairdressing Awards 2018 How to Create: Two Strand Twist
Winter 2019 / Contents
46 How to Create: The Chelsea Girl Look
20
48 Mental Health in Hairdressing 49 Look Book 61
CONCEPT BARBERING
62
Sailing the High Seas of Business
63
Competition: Captain Fawcett
44
64 Mike Taylor on: Beards and Moustaches 66
Ross Charles: Men's Long Hair Razor Cutting
28
49
34 Exercises 68 Core Communication Skills True or False
32
69
Core Communication Skills Questions
70
Technical Skills Match Up
71
Business Judgement True or False
72
Business Judgement Open Questions
10
Concept Hair / 03
Winter 2019 \ News
latesTNews
1
Pantone names Living Coral as its 2019 Colour of the Year
L
iving Coral, which takes over from 2018’s Ultraviolet, is a warm, rose gold hue with a golden undertone, following the movement towards bright colours. As versatile as it is stunning, this shade can be bold or diluted and suits a lot of different skin tones.
Neil Barton, salon owner and Goldwell Ambassador, called it “the perfect shade for Spring/Summer 2019”, while Carly Price, Muse of London, commented that “it gives the hair a gorgeous shine, as well as depth and dimension”. Rush International Colour Director, Chris Williams, predicts that “it will be a hugely popular request within the salons.”
3
Fellowship launches The Barber Project
T
he Fellowship for British Hairdressing has launched its first ever education programme dedicated solely to barbering. This project is aimed at current hairdressers wanting to improve their barbering skills and newly-qualified barbers looking to learn from the industry’s best.
04 / Concept Hair
2
Wella Professionals launches XPOSURE 2019
X
POSURE is a nationwide hairdressing competition aimed at hairdressing students with less than 5 years of experience, giving them the opportunity to take their first steps on the competition ladder. There are 2 categories: College or Private Training Academy. There are 3 stages: an online photographic stage; regional heats stage; and the UK Final. Winners will receive money-can’t-buy prizes, including a mentoring day with some inspirational industry icons at the Wella World Studio in London, a tailor-made Wella education programme, a toolkit, and an XPOSURE trophy.
Find out more at www.W ellaXposure.com
Multiple courses throughout the year, covering all aspects of men’s hairdressing and shaving, will build up to stage time at Salon International 2019. The team of 7 young hairdressers have now been chosen, and will be led by Edward Hemmings, educator and salon owner.
Find out more at www.fellowshiphair.com
Winter 2019 / News
4
WorldSkills UK announces hairdressing winner
T
he Hairdressing Competition at WorldSkills UK 2018 gained a total of 187 entries for its competition at the NEC in November. Out of the many photo collections of ladies’ cut and colour, 75 were invited to compete at the regional heats throughout June, where they had to complete 3 tests in 1 day – ladies’ styling, gents’ cutting and ladies’ cut and colour. The top 8 went on to compete at the final at WorldSkills Live, undertaking 5 tasks over 3 days – ladies’ long hair styling, bridal styling, gents’ cutting and 2 ladies’ cut and colour tests. Those who came out on top were: Gold Medal – Layla Ballinger – Reds Hair Company, Ross-on-Wye
5
RUSH celebrates its 100th salon in Westfield, London
H
aving opened their first salon in Wimbledon 25 years ago, Rush Hair celebrated their 100th opening in November, at the salon in London’s Westfield shopping centre. Founded in 1994, the salon group now has locations all over the country, with joint founders Andy Phouli and Stell Andrew still at the helm. Having defied the odds in recent recessions to continue growing, Rush have now claimed their place as the UK’s largest growing salon group. Stell said: “The opening of our 100th salon is a fantastic achievement and one we couldn’t have done without our incredible team.”
Silver Medal – Wioletta Puchalska – West College, Scotland Bronze Medal – Jasmine Harries – Funky Divas Salon, Llangennech
at Find out more k .u www.rush.co
orldskillsuk.org
Find out more at www.w
6
UK Hairdresser wins Bronze at EuroSkills Budapest
G
avin Jon Kyte, hairdresser from Reds Hair Company in Herefordshire, came third in his skill at this year’s EuroSkills, which was held in Budapest in September. Held every 2 years, the competition encourages world-class standards in skills and trades.
The Hairdressing Competition, part of the ‘Social and Personal Services’ category, saw Gavin fetch 1 of 3 UK bronze medals at the competition, placing behind contestants from France and Russia. Team UK also won a gold in Beauty Therapy and 7 Medallions for excellence.
For more news on the world of hairdressing, head to concepthairmag.co.uk/news
Concept Hair / 05
Winter 2019 \ Trending
BY TOM TRACEY, DIGITAL EDITOR
It’s been an exciting few months for Concept Hair digitally, as more and more people have come across our new website. We have some fantastic how-to videos on our website which are updated regularly, as well as the latest hair collections for your dose of #hairinspo. The last few months on social media have been great at Concept Hair. We ran an Instagram giveaway at Salon International, which you can read about on page 23. We had prizes worth more than £1,500 and Fellowship ClubStar memberships, which were won by 5 lucky hairdressing students from around the country. Not stopping there, we ran a 12 Days of Christmas giveaway in December, with prizes from the likes of Fudge, Indola, Manic Panic, A.S.P Affinage Salon Professional, Crazy Color, RUSH, ghd, The Bluebeards Revenge, Uppercut Deluxe, IdHair, Goldwell and L'Oréal Professionnel. Starting in February, we will be launching our new Apprentice of the Month award where we reward students and apprentices who have been nominated for going above and beyond in their apprenticeships to set the standards of the industry. Take a look at our website for full details. Join in the fun with us on social media – you can find us on Instagram, Twitter and Facebook @ConceptHairMag. Please send us the work you’re most proud of, and you could find it either in the next magazine or on our social feeds!
straightening addict Between the ages of 11 and 14, I was a hair straightening addict. Unsatisfied with my curly mop, I laboured for hours every morning before school to make my hair SOMETHING straight and shiny. It really did take hours – after spraying my hair with so much heat protector that it was dripping, I would iron each lock with the cheap straighteners that were my lifeline, each strand sizzling as they went. Eventually, I gave up on this, wearing my hair curly in exchange for an extra hour in bed, and knowing that I needed to save my hair from all the damage I was doing to it. There were, however, 2 things that I didn’t realise. Number 1: that straightening hair didn’t have to take hours. Number 2: that it is possible to straighten your hair without causing it unfixable damage. But now I know, and it’s all thanks to Hot Tools. The new Hot Tools Professional EVOLVE styler is revolutionary in its field. With a 24k gold titanium styling surface, multi-directional round edge plates, an Ionic Generator for softer hair – these are truly straighteners that 13-year-old me could never have dreamed of.
#EditorFilter
digital column
Trending
Winter 2019 / Trending
So, 10 years later I found myself in front of a mirror again, straighteners in hand, ready to go back to my straightened look. This styler has 27 heat settings, from 1000C to 2300C, depending on your hair type. Because my hair is very thin and frizzy, I kept them on a low setting – around 1400C – to protect my hair from unnecessary heat damage whilst still being able to style effectively. An audible beeping lets you know when the straighteners are heated, and they heat up fast, already cutting time from any morning routine. Their extra-long plates are designed for quicker styling too, with extra surface area meaning extra heat. Even better, their unique cylindrical design makes them perfect for creating curls and waves so you don’t need to fork out on multiple stylers to create different looks. The ring of lights at the bottom of the barrel and flashing LCD screen make it clear when the straighteners are on, while their carry case holds a silicone end cap and an attached heat-resistant mat, all creating safer use both at home and in the salon. My shock of curls was slick, straight and shining faster than I thought possible, and knowing that I had set the temperature to protect my hair from damage gave me such peace of mind. Rather than thinking of it as an embarrassing episode of my pre-teen years, The Hot Tools EVOLVE has given me the chance to fall in love with my straightened hair once more.
Dates for your diary
Fellowship Men's Hair Workshop 4th February, London ProHair Live 24th/25th February, Manchester HJ Live 24th/25th February, London The Hairdressers Charity Ball 4th March, London Salon Cymru 14th April, Cardiff The Art of Blowdrying Course 29th April, Kent Salons, Caterham
BY H O LLY CA RTE R
The Hot Tools EVOLVE has “given me the chance to fall in love with my straightened hair once more
”
fun facts A single strand of hair can support up to 100g in weight – most people have 100,000 – 150,000 strands of hair on their head, meaning your hair could support the weight of 2 elephants! The 1950s favourite beehive, or B-52 look, was named after the B-52 Stratofortress Bomber because it looked like the plane’s nose! A lock of Elvis’ hair once went for $115,000 at auction. Concept Hair / 07
Winter 2019 \ Competition
COMPETITION
Win a place on Kent Hairbrushes’ ‘Master Blowdrier’ course ‘Master Blowdrier’ is a full day, immersive course that YOU could be a part of. Kent Hairbrushes have teamed up with salon owners David and Tracey Rae to teach you how to master the art of blow drying. Master Blowdrier is targeted at the stylist who has just come on to the salon floor, covering novice to medium styling techniques to improve client satisfaction. The advanced blow-drying course will teach core and fundamental techniques to build your technical ability in manipulating hair with a comb, brush and dryer. You will learn how to create texture, shine, undone, moulding and modern setting techniques to become a blowdry master! The course is worth £180 and the lucky winner will also get to pick and keep 2 Kent radial brushes, worth £50.
details when: 29th april 2019
where: The David Rae Salon, Caterham how to enter: Click the link on our homepage at concepthairmag.co.uk and provide your full name and email address to be in with a chance. CLOSING DATE: Sunday 14th April, 11.59pm. The winner will be notified via email within 24 hours. TERMS & CONDITIONS: Head to concepthairmag.co.uk
COULD YOU BE CONCEPT HAIR’S
APPRENTICE OF THE
The Concept Hair Hairdressing & Barbering Apprentice of the Month awardS celebrate students and apprentices who are passionate about the future of the hairdressing & barbering industry, going above and beyond in their apprenticeships to set the standards of the industry. Employers and lecturers can nominate an apprentice by sending us an email or direct message with their nominee’s details. Send to: tom.tracey@sng-publishing.co.uk For more information and how to enter visit:
www.concepthairmag.co.uk #CONCEPTHAIRAPPRENTICEOFTHEMONTH
Winter 2019 \ Plaiting & Twisting
top tips:
Plaiting & Twisting Anne Veck (Anne Veck Salons) Braiding, plaiting, knotting or twisting hair is perfect for a quick and simple change. My top tip is braid day-old hair, not freshly washed hair – it will have more staying power and will be easier to work with.
Kerry Mather
(KJM Salons)
For a quick braid, part the hair in the centre. Starting from the front hairline, take a section from parting to hairline. Split this into 3, cross over and under in a plaiting technique and work back through into the nape, adding from each side as you go, keeping it tight and clean along the way. Repeat the same on the other side.
Gary Taylor (Edward & Co.)
Use contrasting colour threads, elastics or fabrics to tie off your twists, to create extra flashes of detail within the hair.
Michael Young – (Hooker & Young) Big chunky braids worn across the head make for a cool and casual up-do. Ensure the braids are slightly messy and don’t look too uniform, and use a flexible hairspray to keep it all in place. For more ideas head to concepthairmag.co.uk
10 / Concept Hair
Ashley Gamble (Ashley Gamble) Stop plaiting the hair half-way down and tie off to create contrasting texture in your style. Dressing the ends out to add volume will produce an even more diverse silhouette.
Autumn 2018 / Interview
SOPHIA HILTON
BY HOLLY CARTER
the interview
"Be really great at your job and be really, really nice". These are the words of Sophia Hilton, award-winning colourist, salon owner and educator. Her London salon ‘Not Another Salon’ prides itself on its non-judgmental policy, village salon feel and talented staff. She runs ‘Not Another Academy’ for advanced hairdressers and is involved in charity work in Madagascar. Winner of the L’Oréal Colour Trophy, 2017 Colour Expert of the Year and winner at the British Hairdressing Awards, we’re so excited to have caught up with the coolest lady in hairdressing.
• Sophia believes hard work is the key to success, rather than natural talent • She believes social media causes unrealistic expectations • Do what makes you happy – whether that’s a relaxed lifestyle or ‘reaching for the stars’ Concept Hair / 11
12 / Concept Hair
CH: How important is education for you? SH: It’s my life. I’m an educator as well as a salon owner and I own a colour academy for advanced hairdressers. We travel across 5 countries and teach over 60 courses in the UK every year. I’m obsessed with personal development. I think you should be investing 10% of your income into growth at all times, and not relying on your boss to do it. If you don’t, it might not ever happen and the only person that really loses is you.
CH: What do you look for in your staff? SH: It’s such a lottery! People can tell you anything in an interview, it’s really hard to tell who will work. People are subject to their environment, so it’s me as a leader that determines what part of their personality will show. It’s me that has to help find their strengths. The only times I’ve not had the power to change people tends to be because of something bigger, like mental health issues or drug addictions. That goes above my qualifications.
CH: Why did you decide to become a colour specialist? SH: I won the L’Oréal Colour Trophy about 6 years ago and it changed my career as I got a lot of respect for colour. It was from that moment that I really pushed this avenue.
Concept Hair: How did you get here, what is your hairdressing story? Sophia Hilton: Big question. I wasn’t interested in school until Year 7. I had been put in bottom sets as I was dyslexic and I hated it. The kids were rough: swearing, throwing things, bullying - it was hell on earth. I needed to get out, so I worked my butt off. It took me 3 years but eventually I moved from bottom to top in everything. That fight taught me that natural talent has nothing to do with success. Once I started hairdressing, it was that drive that got me through. I was well practiced at working hard.
Instagram “ has raised the bar to a level we can’t hit”
CH: And finally… what’s the best thing about having yellow hair? SH: People smile at you all the time, it’s so lovely. You can’t not smile at yellow hair! It was important to me to always look approachable.
CH: What’s your most important advice for young hairdressers? SH: Decide what you want and be content with your decision. If you want a more relaxed lifestyle, don’t expect to make any real money. If you don’t want to work evenings and weekends on competitions, art teams and education, don’t expect to become an industry name. Reaching for the stars is just one way and is not for everyone - all that matters is that you’re happy. But if you want what others have without wanting to do what it takes, that will lead to deep unhappiness.
CH: What do you wish your clients would understand about hairdressing? SH: The unrealistic expectations of Instagram. You never truly understand how long looks take and their cost. So many videos look like they’re done in a day but actually take a month. Images are heavily edited and often have a hair type that is just, well, not yours. The most annoying thing is that most of the colours only stay for a few washes. It looks great for the image, but she’ll be battling with yellow afterwards. You see more of these colours online than in real life, because they’re not real life. Colourists are left feeling like they’re not good enough, but they are. Instagram has raised the bar to a level we can’t hit.
CH: What’s your greatest achievement? SH: Opening a London salon. I’m not from a rich family so I had government loans, bank loans, my savings and some of my mum’s. It was supposed to cost £250,000 and I dragged that down by being so tight! I had no choice, I couldn’t get more money. It was the best alarm clock to get you up every morning, the thought of losing it all and being in debt.
Winter 2019 \ Interview
I’m obsessed with “personal development”
CH: What’s your worst client story? SH: I recently had to cut all my friend’s hair off because of hair loss. She closed her eyes the whole time and told me she hated me and loved me at the same time. It’s so sad to see a woman cut her hair because she has to, but beautiful to be the person that can be with them. It’s a double-edged sword but I’m glad I got to be there for her. It’s a rare but beautiful part of my job.
CH: Who’s the most remarkable client you’ve had? SH: Love this question! I once had a woman who had been wearing wigs getting her first cut after her hair had grown back. Beside her was a child cutting her hair off to donate to a wig-making charity. It was absolutely wonderful to see them interact.
Twitter or Instagram? What’s Twitter?
Adventure or relaxing holidays? It used to be only adventure, now I need both
What’s your go to song? Cheerleader by OMI
What can’t you leave the house without? My phone and laptop
If you could cut anybody’s hair – alive or dead – who would it be? My Nan’s, anything for a few more moments with her
Go-to brand for colour? L’Oréal
Motto? You get out what you put in
Favourite colour combo? Red and yellow
Quickfire Questions:
Winter 2019 / Interview
Concept Hair / 13
Winter 2019 \ Colour Correction
Colour
Correction:
Removing Residual Green
By Steven Austin (Manic Panic Educator)
This is my tried-andtested method for killing out green.
Formula & method Toning Using ‘Smoke Screen’ Smoke Screen is great to tone with. As a violet-based grey, when pastelized with Pro Pastel-izer, the violet cancels out any residual gold after pre-lightening. • Rinse with cold water, dry and style! This can be done on a warm level 9 or a golden level 8, but you'd need to up the Smoke Screen to 3-4 parts. For both mixes, test the colour on a strand at the back of the head to make sure there’s enough Smoke Screen to kill out the gold. If not, adjust the mix accordingly.
The following will give you a perfectly clean blonde, great for a spotless canvas for vivid or pastel colours, or for clients wanting that silvery blonde shade. • Pre-lighten the hair to a level 9. Mix up 10 parts Pro Pastel-izer to 2 parts Smoke Screen. This is best done on damp hair. Apply liberally section by section, massage through and process for 30 minutes.
colours are very “Professional highly pigmented ”
14 / Concept Hair
• Pre-lighten the green to a pale mint using a cream lightener (I've found that this works better than a powder), with either water or no lift developer. Once you've got it to a mint or pale green, rinse out, shampoo and condition. • In a bowl, mix up 200ml of Olaplex No. 2, add 2-3 grams of Divine Wine and mix thoroughly. • Towel dry all over and test the mix on a slice of hair. If the hair turns pink then your mix is too strong, so add more Olaplex No. 2. If the hair doesn’t change, then you need to add a dab more Divine Wine (the smallest amount! The professional colours are very highly pigmented). Then mix and re-test. Keep testing until the slice goes blonde without any traces of pink or green. • Apply the mix liberally and process for 30 minutes. Rinse in cold water, condition then dry and style!
HOT TIP Make sure you test your mix to avoid colour mistakes!
Winter 2019 \ Salons
Helen Tether
A Bronze Winner within the Creative Vision category at 2018’s Wella TrendVision UK Final, Helen Tether Award Winning Hair are a highly acclaimed salon, offering the best in hairdressing and beauty services. Based in Halesowen, West Midlands, Helen and the team are known for their love of colour which can be seen throughout their internationally recognised photographic collections. Helen’s love of the industry shines through, as she provides her clients with the latest trends and techniques.
Halesowen
superstar SESH Hairdressing
This salon is for those with discerning taste seeking a cosmopolitan salon experience with an innovative edge. SESH Hairdressing is home to a highly trained team of stylists and colourists, based in the creative quarter of Scotland’s capital city. Established in 2004 by Simon Hill, SESH is a salon that combines the traditional principals of hairdressing with modern techniques. Clients enjoy a personalised customer service experience at all times by the award-winning team.
Edinburgh
Located in Hungerford, Berkshire, Perfectly Posh was established in 2007 by award winning stylist Kyrsia Eddery. The salon has a dynamic team of stylists who have been trained to the highest standards in hairdressing and customer service, and are experts within the Aveda retail range, ensuring clients receive the best in hair services and products. The salon pride themselves in providing clients with exceptional service at all times.
Hungerford 16 / Concept Hair
Perfectly Posh
Winter 2019 / Salons
Mahogany Hairdres
sing
With 4 salons based across London and Oxford, Mahogany Hairdressing are known for their passion and commitment to the hairdressing and education industries. The team within all the salons are internally trained, ensuring that the same standard of care and service is received in any salon, at any time. The team are committed and appreciative of every client that visits the salons and this has sustained Mahogany’s reputation as one of the world’s most prominent hair salons.
London and Oxford
salons Ashley Gamble Hair
and Beauty
Ashley Gamble Hair and Beauty was launched in 2014 by Ashley and his wife and business partner, Stephanie. A luxurious haven in the quaint market town of Shifnal, Shropshire, the salon brings big-city quality to peaceful, picturesque surroundings. Boasting 17 staff members, the space offers hair and beauty services, and medical cosmetics. A proud creative hub, the award-winning team are able to flex their artistic skills on shoots and shows, while clients can enjoy exceptional commercial cuts and colours in glitzy surroundings.
Shifnal
A super-stylish, unisex boutique salon nestled within the busy Cornwall town of Launceston, Craig Chapman Hair Design offers a plethora of services such as bridal, Afro hair styling, extensions, cutting, colouring, styling and men’s hair styling. Striving for excellence in customer satisfaction, Craig’s team of exquisitely talented hairstylists each encompass an upbeat, cheerful disposition with a positive “can-do” attitude. Prestige without pretentiousness, Craig Chapman Hair Design is the salon that’s caring, friendly and above all, passionate about the wellbeing of you and your hair.
Craig Chapman Hair
Design
Launceston Want to show off your Superstar Salon? Get in touch by emailing holly.carter@sng-publishing.co.uk
Concept Hair / 17
Winter 2019 \ Salons
windows The windows are big and provide more light – and also give a great view of the popular Royal Exchange Square in Glasgow outside.
wall images These are magnetic and can be changed as the team reveals their new collections.
decor The decor is very clean and white! Previously the walls and ceilings were grey and they are now both white, giving the salon a very fresh, pristine look. The salon has a simple but statement design, combining simple white walls and ceilings with pops of colour from the bright orange lampshades and salon stylists’ bright orange floor trolleys.
creating the perfect salon Rainbow Room International’s Royal Exchange Square salon has recently had a refit, with the whole salon being ripped out and started again. The aim was to create a very chilled, calming environment with more space for clients. We spoke to owner David Nicholson about the changes. 18 / Concept Hair
chairs Prior to the refit the salon had 19 sections. It now has 15, which creates more space and a calmer environment.
Winter 2019 / Salons
Lampshades These give the salon a pop of colour as well as extraordinary light.
backwash This is all very calm and it has separate music to the rest of the salon, creating more of a spa environment.
colour bar The Colour Bar is a stand out, statement feature in the salon, being in the centre of the salon floor surrounded by the work stations. The Colour Bar being in the middle gives the salon a very modern look and allows stylists to be able to mix their colour in front of their clients, allowing them to feel like they are getting a more bespoke, personal experience. Rainbow Room International also has their own product range, which they use on clients within the salon. This includes shampoos and conditioners, as well as styling products that cover all clients’ hair needs!
layout
led lighting
The salon layout has changed from staggered and private to being more open and provides much more interaction as everyone can see each other. The salon is now all about engagement, everyone experiencing what everyone else is experiencing.
These can change depending on the time of day to create certain moods in the salon. The LED lighting also puts a cool glow into the street outside when all of the salon lights are off.
the salon floor The floor is made out of Amtico, which is sound proof. This provides a calmer environment in the salon. Whether there are 5 clients in the salon or 15, it’s very chilled and relaxed.
HOT TIP Calmer salons enhance client experience
Concept Hair / 19
Winter 2019 \ ISA Training
Licence to cut? Concept Hair: Why did you set up ISA Training?
CH: Why is it so important to maintain a high standard within the industry?
Shirley Davis-Fox MBE: Employers prefer apprentices to train in the workplace, and I saw this as an opportunity. We started with 11 staff and we now have 64 operating throughout Wales and South West England.
SDF: Anyone without any training or qualifications can open a salon and use chemicals which is so wrong, young people need to feel inspired to join a regulated profession.
CH: What are you most proud of so far?
Influential figure calls for regulation of hairdressing ‘Inspire, Succeed, Amaze’ (ISA) Training was set up in 1998, and is now the biggest independent hair and beauty training provider in Wales. Founder Shirley Davis-Fox MBE believes regulating and licencing hairdressing is vital to the ever-growing industry. We spoke to Shirley about how ISA Training has gone from strength to strength over 2 decades.
SDF: ISA’s Salon Cymru, the largest hairdressing competition in Wales and the Oyster Strategy, which takes 10 apprentices abroad every year for work experience. ISA also offer opportunities like photoshoots and masterclasses with celebrity hairdressers. CH: Why is hairdressing such a great career to choose? SDF: Career paths are vast and varied, from working on TV, photographic and fashion work to owning your own salon. CH: What is the most significant change that you have seen in the industry over the last 20 years? SDF: The perception of the industry is changing. The consumer has more choice now which really makes it vital that the industry becomes licenced and regulated.
CH: What do you consider to be your biggest personal achievement? SDF: I was awarded an MBE in 2015 for services to the hair industry. I was raised in care and I left school at 15, I was so proud, I didn’t want the day to end. CH: In what direction do you see the hairdressing world going in the next few years? SDF: It has to be regulated and licenced. We live in a digital society, but you cannot order a haircut online, you have to go to a salon. The sector will continue to go from strength to strength. Hairdressers can become state registered at www.haircouncil.org.uk.
We live in a “ digital society, but you cannot order a haircut online
hairdressing “The industry is going from strength to strength 20 / Concept Hair
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Shirley presents State Registration certificates to Spirit Hair Team, Ystrad Mynach.
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Sponsors
Winter 2019 \ Hairdressers' Charity
Hairdressers
helping hairdressers
The Hairdressers’ Charity is here to help people like you – but they need your support.
What is the Hairdressers’ Charity? The hairdressing industry is unique in its open-door approach to education, support and community. People are here to help one another, and through mentoring, networking and organisations, there’s always someone to help you navigate through tricky times. But when things get really tough, who do you turn to? The Hairdressers’ Charity has been helping hairdressers for almost 2 centuries, with a heritage that dates back to 1853. Whether it’s extra funds for people in unforeseen circumstances, emergency one-off grants, support for your family or training and equipment to help you learn or update your skills, it’s an organisation that is here to support people just like you.
• The Hairdressers' Charity supports hairdressers with extra funds, one-off grants, family support, training and equipment • Salons and stylists need to show their support • Look at the website for ideas on how to get involved
How can you get involved? We’re incredibly grateful to everyone who has supported us so far, but there’s always more to be done. On our website, we share ideas about how you can get involved, and we’re always excited to shout about your achievements on our social media to inspire others to join in and acknowledge the hard work you’ve done. We’re also happy to provide the essential kit that will help you get your fundraiser off the ground, with downloadable templates for your own
organisational toolkit, sponsor forms, posters – and even a press release, so you can share your results with the world. You can also watch inspiring case studies of some of the hairdressers we’ve helped over the years, from home renovations for a hairdresser’s child with cerebral palsy, to support and funding for the iconic Leonard of Mayfair, who found himself in turbulent times later in life. If you’re a hairdresser in need, you can apply for help online – just download our application form and let us know the situation.
seen hairdressers “scaleWe’vemountains… all in aid of the charity ”
Why do we need you? However, in order to help the hundreds of people that rely on the charity, salons and stylists need to step up and show their support. Over the last 12 months, we’ve seen hairdressers scale mountains, cycle across countries, host balls and donate their tips, all in aid of the charity. For more information about the work of The Hairdressers’ Charity and, crucially, how you can get involved, visit www.thehairdresserscharity.org or follow @thehairdresserscharity 22 / Concept Hair
Winter 2019 / Salon International
#loveconcepthair
The Salon International
giveaway HJ's Salon International is the biggest hairdressing event in the UK. 2018’s event, held at the ExCel in London on 13-15th October, showcased the best of the industry. Product launches, trend presentations and hairdressing heroes were all on show – and Concept Hair was there on Students Day with its biggest ever giveaway.
Concept Hair / 23
Winter 2019 \ Salon International Prizes totalling over £1,500, along with Fellowship for British Hairdressing’s ClubStar memberships, were given to 5 lucky winners of our Instagram competition. To win, they had to tag us in a photo using #loveconcepthair. The lucky few were presented with their prizes on the Fellowship stage by President Karine Jackson. Here, we caught up with the winners and those supplying their prizes.
winner
winner
Gwennan Jones (Level 2)
Shellyann Homer (Level 2)
Gwennan's college: Coleg Menai, Wales
Shellyann's: Halesowen College
Gwennan's prize: Alfa Italia package worth over £650 including scissors, combs, hairdryer, brushes and styler.
Shellyann's prize: G.E. Betterton kit worth over £200 including customfitted scissors, thinner and razor from AMA.
What Gwennan said: “I don’t know what I’ll do with it yet – I wasn’t expecting to win! The straighteners are amazing, I can’t wait to use them.” Adam Tudor of Alan Howard said: “Gwennan has an ideal start to her career, for salon or session work: an amazing hairdryer, accessories, tools and premium Japanese scissors. It’s going to give her things she could only hope to afford at her level!”
winner Shannon Snell (Level 2) Shannon's college: Harlow College, Essex Shannon's prize: OSMO bundle worth over £250 including styling, colour and grooming products. What Shannon said: “I’m going to use it while I do my course. I’d not used OSMO before. I’m excited about using the hair colour and styling products.” Sinead McLaughlin of OSMO said: “It’s a full package that will take Shannon all the way through a haircut. It’s full of affordable products which hopefully she will go on to use – it’s important to reach students so they can grow with our products.”
24 / Concept Hair
Shellyann said: “I have just started working in a salon so I am going to keep them for when I am doing work at college.” Ali Dawson of G.E. Betterton said: “Shellyann has got a nice set of scissors, thinning scissors, a comb razor and a holster. For a Level 2 student, a lot of that will be new to her – she would have used kits at college but she is going to be way ahead of everyone in her class! The package will cover her for the next 5 years if she looks after the scissors. We had a chat with her and gauged what sort of size and weight she needed.”
winner Tia Durrant (Level 3) Tia Durrant's college: East Coast College, Great Yarmouth
Tia Durrant said: “I have only just got salon work experience so I don’t know how I’ll use it yet. I was so pleased to win – I can’t wait to try out all the colours!”
winner Kayleigh Vincent (Level 3) Kayleigh's college: East Coast College, Great Yarmouth Kayleigh's prize: Cloud Nine package worth over £350 including a monogrammed iron, airshot and curling wand. Kayleigh said: “I’m keeping them for starting my own salon just after Christmas. I want to keep them fresh with all the stuff I’ve bought!” Becky Shaw of Cloud Nine Hair said: “This is the perfect starter kit containing our award-winning products – the Original Iron, Curling Wand & Airshot. These will enable any student to create a multitude of styles with ease. Our mineral infused plates & barrels create shine and care for the hair whilst the temperature control gives you optimum performance for all hair types. Our Airshot is a 2000W styling powerhouse, boasting tourmaline and vitamin infused ceramic heating elements to care for hair whilst styling. Both the Iron and Wand come in a heatproof casegreat for fitting into your kit bag!”
Jo Taylor of Manic Panic UK said: “This mega Manic Panic starter kit has everything to get a budding colourist started! We were so pleased to donate this prize, and have it in the hands of a young professional. Vivid hair is evolving and we can’t wait to see what the next generation of colourists will bring to the table.”
Along with the prizes, each winner was given a free Fellowship ClubStar membership. President Karine Jackson said: “ClubStar is designed for hairdressers aged 16 to 25 and provides discounted membership to the Fellowship for British Hairdressing. You can attend free events, participate in shows and apply to the ClubStar Art Team – our group of younger members who are exposed to mentoring, education and opportunities to grow their profile. It’s the ultimate first step into the Fellowship and a great way to accelerate your career.”
done “toWell all of our winners ”
Follow us on Instagram for more monthly competitions - find us @ConceptHairMag
Tia Durrant's prize: Manic Panic colour kit worth over £250.
Winter 2019 \ A Day in the Life of…
Being a colourist is “really varied, but it’s always fantastic! I always say ‘I dream in colour and am colourful in every way’
”
A Day in the Life of… A Colour Specialist Multi award-winning Hall of Fame member Tracey DevineSmith is the Global Ambassador for A.S.P Affinage Salon Professional and travels the world educating, performing shows and creating the brand’s iconic collections. When not travelling, she works between salons in Abu Dhabi and London. She lives in Cyprus where she creates incredible wigs and hairpieces for her shows.
26 / Concept Hair
HOT TIP Always outline the price and how long you expect it to take before you start
Winter 2019 / A Day in the Life of… “There is no such thing as a typical day as my life is incredibly varied. Whilst exciting days could be anywhere in the world, it is vital to remember the importance of salon life where you face exciting but tricky decisions hourly. “Whether it's an existing client wanting change, or a new client with an unrealistic Instagram feed, our jobs have become more challenging due to social media changing client expectations. With almost every client having a multistage colour, we have to book out more time and charge accordingly. “As the Global Ambassador for A.S.P, I colour 8 models the day before our campaign shoots, which is a minimum 12-hour day, often much longer. Then we are on set at 8am the next morning for a long day of shooting. It is extremely rewarding, but it’s a challenge to push your skills to the max. “Another day I could be educating. I love to share my knowledge and I truly believe that what I don’t know about colour isn’t worth knowing. To teach is to inspire and to inspire is my goal; it’s a joy to see young stylists grow in confidence.”
often on shoots. This is a great opportunity “to getI amcreative, using art and imagination to realise your vision, but they're very long days ” Concept Hair / 27
Winter 2019 \ Colour Correction
Colour correction is “ one of the biggest areas that you need to be fully educated on
”
Colour Correction 101 with L’Oréal Professionnel Adam Reed, Editorial Ambassador for L’Oréal Professionnel and Founder of Percy & Reed Salons, gives us his top advice on colour correction.
28 / Concept Hair
Winter 2019 / Colour Correction
What does colour correction mean? Colour correction is exactly what it says on the tin: correcting a colour for a client - whether it has gone wrong, they simply want a change or they want to return to their natural colour. There is such a spectrum in colour correction and there are a multitude of techniques involved. It is not ‘one-sizefits-all’; each case should be treated as a personal, individual service. What is the most common cause of clients needing colour correction? Clients attempting to colour their hair at home and going too dark. Another common problem is clients bleaching their hair for years and then wanting to return to their natural colour. What is the biggest challenge in colour correction? Meeting the client’s colour expectations without compromising the condition of the hair. You have to ask a lot of questions and consider a number of factors before choosing the best colour journey. Make sure you are being really honest with the client and that they fully understand that it won’t happen in one fell swoop. It may require a series of services over time. Communication from the very first consultation and throughout the service is key.
What are your top tips on approaching colour correction?
If colour goes wrong in the salon, what tends to be the main cause?
Again, the biggest one is communication. A strong understanding of colour is also important. The client will sometimes not be transparent and potentially have forgotten about their colour history, so it helps a great deal to know what has been done just by looking – experience plays a huge part. Finally, be honest. If you won’t meet their expectations, it is better not to do it. The result that the client is looking for and the realistic expectations from a professional colour expert can be very different.
Without a doubt, poor communication and skipping a full consultation. It is extremely important to make sure both you and the client are on the same page about the desired end result and history of the hair.
Can you fix a colour correction in 1 salon visit? It could be 1 visit, weeks, months or it could take years. Every client has different hair types, needs and expectations, so you need to treat every client as an individual. Your consultation skills are essential. Are there certain techniques that are particularly useful? I use L’Oréal Professionnel Effasor, a cleanser used with water which helps you to understand what colour has been previously applied. It is quite literally a historical colour analysis, as it loosens the top layers of colour. If you need to go deeper, use L’Oréal Professionnel Effasor with 20Vol - just make sure you are confident and precise with it. Once you know how to use it, it can be really valuable.
Do you need specific colour correction training? Absolutely, it is one of the biggest areas that you need to be fully educated on. What are your top tips for home-care? Colour correction is so individual, so home-care should also be bespoke. Setting a regime with your client and ensuring they come back for toners, treatments etc., is very important. L’Oréal Professionnel Smartbond is key and I use it with every colour change. It helps to preserve the integrity of the hair throughout the colouring process. What is the hardest colour to correct? Black box dye, without a doubt. Second hardest is probably a case of many colour applications: colour on top of colour on top of colour. Think about someone layering wallpaper. It is easy to take 1 layer off, but you will struggle with multiple sheets applied on top of each other over time.
“Each case should be treated individually”
Concept Hair / 29
Winter 2019 \ 20 Things I Love
20 things i love
Robert Eaton is the Creative Director at Russell Eaton salons and the Wella Professionals UK and Ireland Technical Director. He was recently crowned Colour Technician of the Year at the British Hairdressing Awards. We caught up with him to chat about what he’s loving right now. y Favourite holida
destination?
Go-to takeaway dish? Indian.
Ibiza.
Best Instagram account to follow?
Best way to rela x?
Getting a day of
f! Spending tim e with my family.
Last series you watched?
Hard to choose; I follow all of the industry magazines and icons.
The Cry on BBC 1.
Favourite fashion label?
Best app on your phone?
I use Instagram the most, but I also like Strava for cycling.
Designer Rick Owens and high street brand Cos.
Favourite film of all time?
Tea or coffee?
I am a bit of a sci-fi fan so they are a must for me.
Tea.
Travel by train or
on you've met? Most famous pers the TrendVision Emma Willis at
Always the trai
car?
n for long distan
I met e was lovely! Award final, sh
ces.
ity haircut? Favourite celebr e’s style. Cara Delevingn
Who would you most like to style?
I love
Madonna. I bet she has some amazing stories.
What inspires you? Favourite curren t
The younger members of our team and their enthusiasm.
hair tr
end? I am always insp ired by anything colour related.
rly mornings? Late nights or ea e becoming a dad!
I’ve gotten used
en? Best tip you've ever been giv used. foc y pays off, and sta
to both sinc
Hard work
Favourite emoji?
Laugh out loud, heart eyes and thumbs up.
Last song you li
stened to? Dreams by ZHU & NERO, I liste ned to it in rehearsals for a big hair sh ow! 30 / Concept Hair
Dogs or cats? www.russelleatonhair.com
Dogs.
Winter 2019 / Rush Training
rush to
success
• Rush provide in-depth training at their Academy • They also offer education for career development • Rush are taking on apprentices across their salons
Rush Hair are known for consistent commitment to the hairdressing industry, providing incredible educational facilities in the group’s Rush Academy, based in London’s Covent Garden.
In addition to training their own team in the Academy, they also offer in-depth education to those looking to further their career within the industry, providing an array of courses which cover topics such as cut, colour, styling and session hair. Rush Educator and Rush Workshop Team Member, Michael Rackett, began his apprenticeship with the group at 16 years old. He said: “I couldn’t believe how indepth the training I received was.
It was tough, I had some hard taskmasters in the shape of the Rush Artistic Team and from the start I wanted and aspired to be every bit as good as they are.” Michael singled out the way he was taught about all elements of the craft. Training in cutting, colour, dressing hair and the foundation of building a column ensured that once he completed his training and was ready to go onto the salon floor, he was experienced in all aspects of hairdressing.
Michael Rackett
believe how in-depth the “I couldn’t training I received was ” “At Rush, we pride ourselves in providing our team with the highest standards of education and training. Development and growing with the company is a strong part of our ethos, Rush offers career opportunities and not just jobs.
“We want our teams to learn how to be their best, from the very start of their journey with us. At Rush we allow limitless opportunities. They will allow a lifetime of skills,” explains Lisa Wheatcroft, People Director at Rush Hair.
Rush has vacancies in their new Westfield salon and many other Rush salons located throughout the UK. Please visit www.careers.rush.co.uk or call 020 3582 2909 for more information. Concept Hair / 31
Winter 2019 \ Colour Rebels
MEET THE
COLOUR REBELS
The Colour Rebels are A.S.P Affinage Salon Professional's first generation Artistic Team and the cream of the hairdressing crop. In their 2-year programme, the 6 Colour Rebels travel all over the UK, Europe and beyond to inspire hairdressers and lead the way in British hairdressing. Rebels Let Lew and Paul Thomas Farr headed to Shrewsbury College for a prelaunch of their Rebelution show, ahead of Salon International. We found out what it was all about.
Jude McCormick
Lecturer, Shrewsbury College A.S.P do various technical and product training with our staff and students. We joined A.S.P to inspire the students and raise the college’s profile. My Level 3 students assisted the Colour Rebels all day, running errands, helping clients, helping to style and apply colours. They were part of a manic day and evening. The students were absolutely ecstatic about it. We invited local salons to watch the show, which improved our employer links. Becoming a Colour Rebel could be a career path my students choose to go down and the show gave them insight into that option, even though it’s not necessarily something they think about whilst at college. Let and Paul advised them to be adventurous and go for it, which really inspired the students.
32 / Concept Hair
“STUDENTS ARE THE LIFEBLOOD OF THE INDUSTRY AND THE STYLIST STARS OF THE FUTURE”
Winter 2019 / Colour Rebels
Let Lew
Colour Rebel I’ve been doing this for 18 months, it’s been incredible. Being at Salon International showcasing what we do was amazing. The whole Colour Rebels team are so close, there are 6 of us and we’ve made lifelong friends, I never thought I’d be selected in a million years. As long as you are an A.S.P. salon user or stylist, you know how to use their colour and are open to the competition, it’s really worth entering. They don’t care where you’re from as long as you’re passionate about hairdressing and you’re the right person.
There are so many opportunities involved; we’ve done lots of college tours and travelled all over the world. Inspiring young hairdressers means so much to A.S.P. Shrewsbury College was a brilliant location, they had a big hall for the show and having their students support us was special. At college you do things by the book, in a show it’s a lot more realistic. We are showing them the cutting, the actual developments of colour and having to slightly bend the rules to do what you want.
young hairdressers “Inspiring means so much to A.S.P ” Lauren Fedrick
Level 3 Student, Shrewsbury College I was one of the students who was lucky enough to help out at the show. It was amazing! It was such a great experience to work with the Colour Rebels. I wouldn’t like to be on the stage in my career, but it was really inspiring to meet people who are. It was really different to college work, we never get to do stuff like that. I’ve worked on real models but never for shows. I’ve seen A.S.P shows before and they’ve come to show us products but we’ve never had a show at our college.
Philip Sharp
A.S.P Affinage Salon Professional Brand Director At A.S.P we work closely with colleges across the UK, often in partnership with our UK distributors. Students are the lifeblood of the industry and the stylist stars of the future, which is why we aim to provide them with as much support as possible. We like to support the colleges who train these young stars and often offer additional incentives and training to support the needs of college programmes themselves.
Concept Hair / 33
Winter 2019 \ Business Skills
A Head for
Business
HOT TIP Engaging in courses outside of hairdressing can help you to grow your profile
To grow in a competitive industry like hairdressing, you need the business skills to back up your technical abilities. It’s never too early to learn how to run a salon that makes money, works creatively and gives you an amazing job.
Work with a product partner I’m an ambassador for Schwarzkopf Professional’s BC line, so can help clients find exactly what they need. The brand can call me for press quotes, which is great for growing your profile and showing that you take brand partnership seriously.
Keep learning Darcey Clarke from Ashley Gamble Hair was 18 when she won Junior of the Year at HJ's British Hairdressing Business Awards last September. She shares what she’s learnt.
Find a mentor Working alongside Ashley has allowed me to assist him on weddings, shows, shoots and in the salon. It’s important to take opportunities – it’s the best way to grow! Ask questions and remember advice. 34 / Concept Hair
The best hairdressers never stop learning. Courses help you improve and meet people. Try expanding in other areas – to improve in social media or photography, take a course! New skills always help, whether you’re in a salon, freelance or planning for your future. It’s your career, you’ve got to invest to grow.
Build a profile I entered the British Hairdressing Business Awards to grow my profile. Competitions are great for meeting press and industry leaders. Judges want to read personal entries, so don’t worry about being perfect, just showcase your talent. Since winning I’m going to be featured in news stories and increase my profile amongst the press and brand partners.
Have a plan Setting goals is important, it gives you focus. No matter what you’re planning, goals will help you. The best plans come from asking questions and acting on advice. People are very happy to share their stories – start planning!
hairdressers never “The best stop learning ”
Winter 2019 / Business Skills
Learning the ropes
HOT TIP Being around other hairdressers is the best way to gain experience
Nathan Smith is the co-owner of Esky Hairdressing based in Wilmslow, Cheshire. He runs the salon with his former boss, and currently has 3 apprentices training with the business. Nathan, 28, talked us through the business skills he’s learned over his 13 years as a hairdresser.
SMALL BEGINNINGS CAN LEAD TO GREATNESS At 17 I left the salon I worked at, thinking I could make it big in Manchester. I didn’t like it, the grass definitely wasn’t greener. I went back to my old salon ashamed but it was worth it. I came to realise I had a great place to work.
SELF-EMPLOYMENT CHALLENGES I have been self-employed since I was 18. I didn’t know about holiday or sick pay, I used to work a lot more hours than I was paid for. You have to have your own phone line, booking system, card machine: there’s a lot involved. I decided to learn to drive so I could go mobile.
hair is their life, but you’ve “gotA person’s to push yourself to your limits ”
Dream big I said to myself, if I didn’t have a salon by the time I was 25, I’d maybe try something different - maybe move abroad or go to Hollywood and try it there. I say to my staff, “If you have a dream, dream big, don’t let anyone put you down.”
Offer something different If you want to stand out, really look for a niche in the market. There’s a million and one salons in the world: there’s 8 just on our street!
Go outside your comfort zone There’s a lot of anxiety that comes with hairdressing: a person’s hair is their life, but you’ve got to push yourself to your limits.
Learn from experience A lot of it comes from being in the salon every day, working around other hairdressers, going to hair shows. There’s a big learning curve, they don’t teach you tax or VAT, so you should go on courses for stuff like that.
Say yes I never turned down extra shifts. To get places in hairdressing you’ve got to be seen as interested and reliable. You’ve got to love the job you’re in. Concept Hair / 35
Winter 2019 \ Interview
EN-ABLE-ING EDUCATION
• Andrew Barton has launched a new educational programme, ABLE • It will complement the NVQ programme in colleges • It features all aspects of competent professional hairdressing
to cement colleges as the chosen training destination. It has already created great new relationships and commercial success for the colleges involved. CH: How does the programme work?
Renowned celebrity hairdresser and Creative Director of Headmasters, Andrew Barton, has launched a new education concept, Andrew Barton London Education, or ABLE. We caught up with him to find out what it’s all about.
Concept Hair: What gave you the idea for ABLE? Andrew Barton: I have always been frustrated by the debate between salon and college education. I wanted to bridge the gap, creating something that gave students more chances of success, satisfaction and confidence. It is a completely new approach to hairdressing training. CH: Why is education so important to you? AB: As a salon owner and Creative Director, I recognise the power education has at every level. I was blessed with a high standard of training as an apprentice and training transforms a stylist’s delivery and feelings about their work and themselves. 36 / Concept Hair
CH: Why did you decide to go straight into colleges rather than online education? AB: Complementing the NVQ programme gives students increased stimulation and provides lecturers with inspired learning tools to deliver exciting education. Colleges have a great opportunity to influence the professionals who will soon be at the forefront of our industry. CH: How have colleges reacted to the idea? AB: Since the launch in Autumn 2018 it has been very well received. We have ensured that colleges understand how easily it fits into their curriculum and can benefit students. ABLE is also an opportunity for colleges to build relationships with local salons, helping
AB: ABLE is skills-led and presented in a series of training tools, including an online platform, print material, a teacher training guide and a Facebook page. Mirroring the NVQ syllabus, ABLE features all aspects of competent professional hairdressing – cutting, colouring, styling, dressing and leadership. CH: What do you see for the future of ABLE? AB: Over the coming years, ABLE will be widely available across the UK and beyond. My ambition is to increase industry standards and equip trainee ABLE hairdressers with the skills they need to be salon ready and have rewarding careers. CH: What is your advice for students and apprentices? AB: This is something I was taught during my apprenticeship: never accept ‘okay’ as a standard, because it’s not! This statement defines ABLE. It is about elevating the learning process, building confidence and boosting an individual’s potential.
“Itherecognise power education has at every level
”
Winter 2019 / Scissors
At Bettertons we have seventy years’ experience in the scissor industry and we understand the importance of having equipment you can rely on. That’s why we supply only the finest quality hairdressing scissors, thinning scissors, razors and accessories from around the world, including our own brand AMA. Our unprecedented and comprehensive range caters for all tastes and budgets, from beginner to top stylist, giving you the ultimate choice. The type of blade you choose is as important as the shape of handle. Having the right blade for your cutting style could be the difference between a good and bad cut, and a happy client.
Blades Although there are various names and versions of blades, there are 3 main blade styles to choose from.
Serrated This is the simplest blade type, and is most commonly used when doing block work. The serration will grip the hair and hold it in place, making it easier to control the cut.
Standard/Polished/ Bevelled This blade is mainly used on midpriced scissors. The blade is set at a 45-degree angle for a sharper, more durable edge. A good all-round blade, and suitable for most basic cuts.
Convex
Blade Width
On a convex blade, the blade edges are ground to a 38-degree angle. This creates an extremely sharp, longer lasting edge, which will cut hair with less force than a standard blade. Ideal for all cutting techniques, including slide cuts and slicing.
Blade widths will vary from scissor to scissor, but the wider the blade the more powerful the cut. Those with a thin blade will be more suitable for point and detailed work.
Hair by Ceri Cushen at Metropolis Hairdressing
isn't a blade just a blade?
Blade Lines Various blade lines are available, from straight to curved. Generally there are 3 blade types; a straight blade, a willow or regular blade, and a bamboo leaf blade. The straighter the blade, the easier the blade will hold the hair whilst cutting, making it more suited to blunt and wet cuts. The bigger the curve, the more the hair will slide, for a smooth, soft cut. Therefore, the more curved the blade, the more suited it will be for slide cuts and slicing.
HOT TIP The straighter the blade, the easier the blade will hold the hair whilst cutting
Straight blade
Standard
gebetterton.co.uk
Convex
Curved blade
Concept Hair / 37
Winter 2019 \ Hairdressers of the Future? • Award-winning hairdresser Casey Coleman told primary school children all about working in the hairdressing industry • It was part of an event to teach children about different careers • Casey aims to inspire more people to go into hairdressing
Hairdressers of the Future?
We spent the day with award-winning Casey Coleman, owner of CHAIR Salons in Cardiff, as he talked to primary school children about what it’s like to work in the hairdressing industry. As part of an event to teach children about different careers, Casey spoke to around 50 Year 5 and Year 6 pupils from St Joseph’s school in Cardiff, teaching them about hairdressing and the different paths it can take you down, such as TV work, owning a salon and using social media to educate. He started off by showing them a video of when hairdressing goes wrong, before asking why people cut hair. The first answer he was given was, “so you don’t get nits!” In a 1-hour workshop, he told them: “Hairdressing and barbering is rated as one of the happiest jobs in the world.” He told the children how he wished he had hands like Edward Scissorhands, and was part of the hair team for X Factor. Casey’s new apprentice, 17-year-old Ella Gray, was on hand to tell the students what it’s like to be a hairdressing
apprentice. She said: “It’s really fun – if you are creative, it’s a great job to get into.” The children were then able to get creative with coloured hairspray, spraying wigs worn by 3 of their classmates with tons of colour. Lucy Lee, the Year 5 teacher at the school, said: “It was absolutely brilliant, we loved it, the kids loved it. It’s part of a school programme where businesses come and speak to the children called Open Your Eyes Week.”
“andHairdressing barbering is rated as one of the happiest jobs in the world
”
The ‘It List Visionary Award’ is ‘for a young stylist or technician who is pushing creative boundaries’ 38 / Concept Hair
Quickfire Questions: Describe your job in 3 words? Creative, fun, challenging Best moment in hairdressing? Winning the It List Visionary award in 2017 – I had tried for 3 years and I put my heart and soul into the last entry, it was a bucket-list goal. …and worst? There are a lot of bad moments as well as good, like losing a regular client. It can be disheartening, but you learn from your mistakes. What makes your salon special? My team carry the business. It’s the people who work here that make it. Where do you see the future of hairdressing? Current hairdressers need to try and encourage more people to become hairdressers. I want to inspire people from a younger age.
Winter 2019 / App-rentice
15’coach
L’Oréal Professionnel’s app, 15’ Coach, is here to help hairdressers prevent Musculoskeletal disorders (MSDs), which cause 75% of job-related health issues in hairdressers.
Have you ever thought about how you stand when at college or in the salon? Hours of standing, repeating gestures and holding bad postures can all lead to MSDs, especially in the back, neck, hands and wrists. The 15’ Coach app provides a training programme to help keep you healthy and flexible so you can enjoy your course injury free. Starting with a series of questions to assess levels of pain in key parts of the body, the app then features a 5-minute warm up to prepare muscles at the start of the day, 5 minutes to learn the proper postures and 5 minutes of stretching at the end of the day, perfect for fitting into your busy schedule. Get it into the routine of just 15 minutes of movement, and you can save yourself from the pain of MSDs.
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Winter 2019 \ ghd Queenmaker Tour
Long Live the Queens
The tour was “ totally immersive and put the hairdresser at its heart
ghd showcased their new take on education with the ghd Queenmaker tour, which had dates in both Edinburgh and London.
• ghd showcased the new Platinum+ styler • The tour put the hairdresser at its heart • Guests received education in social media, salon-friendly styling and maximising their kit
As part of their mission to celebrate hairdressers and help them perfect their craft, ghd took its Queenmaker tour to London and Edinburgh. The event showcased the new ghd Platinum+ styler, as well as demonstrating a new format of learning for a new generation.
The tour was totally immersive and put the hairdresser – or Queenmaker – at its heart. As well as receiving their own Platinum+ styler, guests were treated to inspiring education in social media, salon-friendly styling and maximising their kit for more effective and efficient results. In Edinburgh, ghd Creative Artists Samantha Cusick and Patrick Wilson were on stage, while in London Patrick was joined by session stylist and fellow Creative Artist, Luke Benson. The artists provided insight into all aspects of hairdressing, with a special focus on maximising bookings using social media. The events featured ring lights, selfie spaces and attachments to secure smartphones to salon mirrors for the ultimate in client selfies and process documentation. Each session commenced with a powerful dance routine from 4 models, representing the ghd Queens. The artists then completed model looks on stage while host Dafydd Rhys quizzed them on styling, social media and business. The second half of the session provided a chance to get hands on, as guests got to try out their new stylers and create their own looks. The experts were on hand to advise, with looks then shot by a professional photographer in a pop-up studio space.
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”
“At ghd, we wanted to challenge how education is done,” Jo Robertson, ghd’s Global Head of Education, commented. “Rather than simply teaching trends, we wanted to inspire guests, then empower them to create their own styles. We’re dedicated to celebrating our Queenmakers and by empowering them creatively and showing them how to maximise their creations online, we’re helping them keep clients excited and get new business through the door.”
Winter 2019 / ghd Queenmaker Tour
As Global Head of Education for ghd, Jo Robertson’s career has been built around learning. Now celebrating 30 years in the industry, Jo shares with us the importance of education.
CH: What’s the best way to carry on with education? JR: Photograph and analyse your work. It’s not always easy, but it will help you to find areas for improvement. Upskilling is vital – it allows you to remain focused and excited about your job.
Concept Hair: What drew you to hairdressing?
CH: What are the main difficulties in education?
CH: What are your recommended resources?
Jo Robertson: From an early age, I went to the salon with my grandma. I loved the community of the salon, and always knew it was for me.
JR: The new generation are looking for inspiration online and want easy access. YouTube allows anyone to give free education, so we need to keep up with demand but also cover hands on and technical elements.
JR: Follow everyone in the industry on Instagram, watch YouTube, read hair books, follow blogs. Attend every event you can; this industry is all about relationships.
CH: How did you get into education? JR: I attended Salon International in 1989 and I remember watching hair shows thinking “I want be on stage inspiring people”. Education allows everyone in the industry to raise their standards and keep hairdressing as a thriving career option.
CH: Why is technical skill so important? JR: It’s vital that hairdressing is seen as professional, not a DIY process. I make education fun and inspiring but also focus on technical craft elements. We blend social media and hands-on education that can be used in the salon.
CH: Any final advice? JR: This industry changes every season. To be successful, you need to be attending courses – not just the ones your salon recommends. Push yourself and find your niche. If you want to be insta-famous or the best colourist in town, you need to work at it. Practice, practice, practice!
“I want to be on stage inspiring people”
Jo Robertson
Concept Hair / 41
• The 2018 BHAs took place in November, hosted by Rylan Clark-Neal • There were awards for best hairdresser from each region
HJ's British Hairdressing
• Sally Brooks won Hairdresser of the Year for the 2nd year in a row
Awards 2018
The British Hairdressing Awards are considered the Oscars of the industry, celebrating the very best of British hairdressing. The BHA’s recognise and reward the creative talents of individuals and teams who make this industry one of which we can all be proud. It gives hairdressers a chance to have their names in lights and reaffirm their reputation as one of the country’s leading hairdressers. 2018’s awards took place on 26th November at the prestigious Grosvenor House Hotel on Park Lane, London. The awards were hosted by TV celebrity Rylan Clark-Neal, with Scouting for Girls providing the entertainment for the evening. Currently over 287,000 people work within the hairdressing, barbering and beauty industries, contributing over £7bn to the UK economy each year. The British Hairdressing Awards have launched the careers of a host of household names: from John Freida and Nicky Clarke to TONI&GUY's creative director Sacha MascoloTarbuck, as well as TV favourites Lisa Shepherd and Andrew Barton (who features on page 36). Stuart Hamid, Schwarzkopf Professional General Manager, UK and Ireland, said: “Hairdressing is an industry of endless enthusiasm and creativity and nowhere is this more evident than in the entries for these awards. I am absolutely delighted for the winners as they represent the pinnacle of our industry – the absolute best." 42 / Concept Hair
Awards
Winter 2019 / British Hairdressing Awards
Best hairdresser for each region: Eastern: Jessica Neil & Mary Geoghegan, KH Hair, Nottingham
London: Philipp Haug, TONI&GUY, Sloan Square Midlands: Nicola Smyth, Nicola Smyth Award Winning Hair, Leamington Spa North Eastern: Isobel Eaton & Jesse Jackson, Russell Eaton, Barnsley North Western: Marcello Moccia & Karen Perry, Room97 Creative Hairdressing, Wakefield Northern Ireland: Damien Johnston, Pure Hair, Belfast Scotland: Karen Thomson, KAM Hair & Body Spa, Lossiemouth Southern: Robert Masciave, Metropolis Hairdressing, Kingston Upon Thames Wales & South West: Steven Smart, Smartest 73, WestonSuper-Mare
SPECIALIST AWARDS: Afro Hairdresser: Michelle Thompson, Francesco Group, Birmingham Artistic Team: Marc Antoni Art Team, Marc Antoni, Henley-on-Thames Avant Garde Hairdresser: Sylvestre Finold, TONI&GUY, Wimbledon Men’s Hairdresser: Desmond Murray, Atherton Cox, London Newcomer: Gianluca Caruso, TONI&GUY, London Schwarzkopf Professional British Colour Technician: Robert Eaton, Russell Eaton, Leeds (check out page 30!)
The final award of the night – for British Hairdresser of the Year – saw 7 hairdressers showcase their submission. 8 images of original hair work which were judged and awarded points for overall technical skill, creative vision and wearable, beautiful looks that pushed the boundaries of hair art. The winner was Sally Brooks, of Brooks & Brooks hair salon in London – who retained her crown after winning the 2017 Award. She is best known for creating wearable, desirable and technically exceptional hair.
It’s amazing to win British “ Hairdresser of the Year, 2 years in a row, and I’m delighted that everyone loved the collection as much as I did. It’s a very special award and a night to remember!
”
Concept Hair / 43
Winter 2019 \ The Ideal Apprentice
• Ask mentors questions and request that they help you to develop • Be organised and show off your assertiveness to potential employers • Get solid training and take initiative
Luke Benson’s Ideal Apprentice
Luke Benson is a ghd Creative Artist, award-winning session hairdresser and educator. We wanted to know what he looks for in an apprentice.
The fact this piece is called The Ideal Apprentice makes me happy. Too many times I hear hairdressers call the young’uns ‘juniors’! As soon as that word is thrown around it makes them seem inferior and below anyone else. Until people realise that apprentices are the future of the industry, we have a problem. They are here to learn and grow as young hairdressers, and also to help us stylists.
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Make sure your mentors have time for you Mentors need to make sure they devote time to their apprentices. They spend all day looking after the salon and clients to make everything run better, so whenever it comes to a training session, never be afraid to ask questions you need to ask or request a haircut that needs exposing – mentors should give you the care and time they can allow. Apprentices who ask these sorts of questions are the ones that employers will want to hang on to and develop as they are the most dedicated and hungry!
Be organised and assertive In the session world I’m in now, all of the above is still key, however there is a slightly different need. I obviously want hunger and drive, but organisation and a personality that is a joy to be around on set is also so important. Know how your kitbag is packed, know the tools you need for the looks, but also understand when to take a step back and let the shoot team work. I also want someone hands-on; I love it when they ask if they can help, or in the weeks leading up to a shoot, checking if there is prep to be done.
Demand the best We were all assistants or apprentices once, people gave their time up for us and now it’s time to give it back. If you’re a young hairdresser learning the trade and you’re not getting what you need then speak up and discuss it, don’t quit. There are so many career avenues but good solid training is where it all begins, so get an amazing mentor, message session stylists or agencies about assisting and let’s all make this industry grow for the better!
Good solid “ training is where it begins ”
Winter 2019 / How To
how to create 2 STRAND TWIST
This twist from Pivot Point LAB is an alternative to dressing hair with plaits used in formal and informal looks. 1
Begin with an asymmetric ponytail at the nape. Wrap a small section of hair around the base of the ponytail, covering the covered hair band.
5
Work towards the ends, then secure with a covered hair band.
7
Secure the twisted hair using hair grips.
2
Divide the ponytail into 2 equal sections using the tail of a comb, then insert your index finger with a palm down hand position.
3
Then, turn your palm up to create a twist.
4
Repeat this technique using the left hand to control the hair as you reposition your right hand to create the twist. Note that twisting the strands individually creates a more rope-like texture.
6
Next, wrap the twisted strand around its base in a clockwise direction using very light tension. 8
Then, expand the hair, checking for balance while working.
The finished style has a classic feel with a modern twist for a commercial appeal.
For more How To videos make sure you head to concepthairmag.co.uk/how-tos
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Winter 2019 \ How To
how to create
the chelsea girl look
1
Hair by Hot Tools Professional European Brand Ambassador Robert Eaton.
STEP 1 Separate the hair into 3 curved sections. Lightly mist the hair with heat protection spray and set the temperature to suit hair type.
3
STEP 3 At the front hairline change the CurlBar to 25mm. Work in an anti-clockwise direction. Reduce the heat to a lower temperature to protect the weaker hair around the hairline.
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2
tools
Hot Tools CurlBar Set: 19mm barrel and 25mm barrel
STEP 2 Start curling the hair in small sections working in a clockwise direction. Use a flat wrap technique on the 19mm CurlBar, moving the barrel while the curl develops to create a root lift.
4
STEP 4 Working on the middle section, swap back to a 19mm CurlBar and raise the temperature back up to match that of the first section. Work in an anti-clockwise direction, repeating the flat wrap technique.
5
6
STEP 5
STEP 6
Repeat Step 3 along the hairline around the face, working with the 25mm CurlBar at a lower temperature.
7
STEP 7
Winter 2019 / How To
For the third section work in a clockwise direction, repeating the technique, temperature and barrel size as with the 2 previous sections.
8
STEP 8
Repeat Steps 3 and 5 along the hairline around the face, working with the 25mm CurlBar at a lower temperature.
Finish the hair by lightly misting a Hot Tools Paddle Brush with hairspray and brushing it through the hair to loosen and soften the curls.
To see the full video for this step-by-step, head to www.concepthairmag.co.uk/how-tos/?video_id=2821
Concept Hair / 47
Winter 2019 \ Mental Health
Mental Health
• Janet Maitland has struggled with mental health problems all her life • She advises anyone struggling to get professional help and keep yourself safe • Employers need to provide positive steps for struggling staff
in Hairdressing Janet Maitland is a 3-times salon owner, award winner, Schwarzkopf Professional’s Shaping Futures Ambassador and bipolar disorder sufferer. Here, she talks about her illness, and how we can all support each other better in tough times. ward where they explained that I had bipolar disorder. I had medication which kept me level and Cognitive Behavioural Therapy which helped me to deal with my moods. I was more able to share my illness when it had a name. CH: How do you feel that bipolar has affected your career?
Concept Hair: Hi Janet, thank you for taking the time to talk to us. Would you like to tell us how you started? Janet Maitland: I started hairdressing in 1972, opened my own business in 1979 and now have 3 salons across the North East. In 2017 I won the North East Inspirational Business Woman of the Year award and in 2018 the Business Director of the Year award at HJ’s British Hairdressing Business Awards. I am also the Schwarzkopf Shaping Futures Ambassador, helping to train disadvantaged people around the world. CH: What is your mental health story? JM: I've struggled emotionally all my life, but my problems were a secret. Sometimes I felt really energised, other times I had no energy and felt very disappointed in myself. After a very busy bout of work, I couldn’t rest and felt tortured. I was sent to a psychiatric 48 / Concept Hair
JM: I have a lot of drive with this illness. I take risks that others wouldn’t and have incredible creative vision. However, I could become very poorly and tortured. I have to monitor that closely. CH: What advice would you give to someone living with a mental health problem? JM: Get professional help and keep yourself safe. Don’t let your mental health define you. I would not have the business or awards I have if I didn’t have bipolar, it’s helped me to achieve unusual things. Accept your mental illness and go forward as strong as you can. CH: How can colleagues or friends help? JM: You need some trusted friends – I have my husband and Sandra, my colleague since 1979. They’d tell me if my behaviour was erratic and I’d believe them. You need someone who is honest and kind when you aren’t being yourself.
CH: How can an employer or tutor help? JM: Make sure there are positive steps for your staff. I pay a company to give my staff 24/7/365 telephone counselling or 1-to-1 sessions. People can come through mental health problems and be stronger afterwards, but you often need help to get there. CH: Do you think the hairdressing industry can improve to support those living with mental health problems? JM: Yes for sure. I got some posters from Time to Change which opened up conversations about mental health in my salons. In this industry we can be sensitive people. Things are a lot easier if you have a supportive work environment, otherwise it can become a downward spiral.
People can come “through mental health problems and be stronger afterwards
”
If you feel you need to talk to someone or would like more information, don’t hesitate to visit: www.time-to-change.org.uk or call Samaritans free any time on 116 123
REFLECTIONS TRAINING ACADEMY Level 3 hairdressing students at the Reflections Training Academy in Bristol took part in an in-house competition in which learners had to research and come up with an idea, create an inspiration board and then complete the look on a live model. A chosen few were given the opportunity of a professional photoshoot for their own portfolio, and creating an academy collection. Danielle Wring, Roberta Fidanza, Jess Seddon and Matilda Ormiston then went on to compete in the national Wella XPOSURE and Hairdressing Council’s Student of the Year competitions. Hair by: Danielle Wring
Find all the latest and greatest #hairinspo at concepthairmag.co.uk/inspiration
Concept Hair / 49
Winter 2019 \ Look Book
Hair by: Jess Seddon
Hair by: Matilda Ormiston
Hair by: Roberta Fidanza
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Winter 2019 / Look Book
GWENNAN JONES Gwennan Jones is a Level 2 student from Coleg Menai in Wales, and a winner of our #loveconcepthair competition at HJ's Salon International. Here, she shows us some of her work, including how she’s used the Alfa Italia straighteners that were part of her prize. Style 1 : Soft balayage finished with a bouncy blowdry Style 2 : One length cut finished with a smooth blowdry
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Winter 2019 \ Look Book
PATRICK CAMERON, HERITAGE Patrick Cameron’s new collection, Heritage, features techniquebased iconic looks that are both eye-catching and client-pleasing. Hair by: Patrick Cameron Couture by: Marco Erbi Photography by: Marco Erbi Make-up by: Alison Chesterton Products by: Wella EIMI Models by: Black Bird Cage
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Winter 2019 / Look Book
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ANDY HEASMAN Obsession is the latest collection from Andy Heasman and new Fellowship Hairdresser of the Year Tina Farey, from Rush. Hair by: Andy Heasman & Tina Farey, Rush Photography by: Jack Eames Clothes design/styling by: Magdelena Jacobs Make-up by: Kelly Sadler
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Concept Hair / 55
Winter 2019 \ Look Book
IT’S JUST ROCK ‘N ROLL “The story idea was that the models were super ‘famous’, had just done an interview and had a few ‘outtake’ pictures taken to accompany the article.” Hair by: Kerry Mather of KJM Salons Photography by: Richard Miles Styling by: Clare Frith Make-up by: Sophie Cox
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CHROMATIC “My inspiration came from pop art. I wanted all the colours to clash so they really stood out with a high contrast, in order to really pull the viewer in. There’s also an 80’s element which is seen throughout the collection.” Hair by: Helen Tether Photography by: Richard Miles Make-up by: Lauren Mathis
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Winter 2019 / Look Book
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Winter 2019 \ Look Book
ELEMENTS Hair by: IdHAIR Photography by: Sidsel Clement Styling by: Sofia Astby Dock Make-up by: Louise Bruun
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Find all the latest and greatest #hairinspo at concepthairmag.co.uk/inspiration
concepthairmag.co.uk/barbering
Winter 2019 \ Business Skills
jolly roger Sailing the High Seas of Business BRAD NEWLANDS, OWNER OF THE JOLLY ROGER BARBERSHOP IN STAFFORD, TALKS BARBERING, SCURVY DOGS AND RUNNING A SMALL BUSINESS. I started out in barbering at 13, after school, on weekends and in the holidays; I loved it. When I left school, I started with TONI&GUY, taking advantage of all the education they had to offer. After a while, it became apparent that I much preferred barbering to hairdressing, so I decided to start up on my own. I wanted to be able to kick back, cut some hair and chew the fat whilst listening to some decent Rock n’ Roll! Jolly Roger has now been going for 4 years. My shop is quite hidden, which was a big concern at first, but it has grown to be my favourite part! I never thought it would be permanent – it was just somewhere to get started before moving on. But I started to enjoy working alone. My chair is always full and I only have to worry about keeping myself and my customers happy! It’s great to be in complete control of the business. I no longer take on new customers. I never thought I would be in this position but I feel very lucky! The key to the shop’s success is its simplicity. I take appointment only, stick to what I’m good at, and the customer gets 1-on-1 treatment. We have built more than just a business, it's one huge friendship club. A motley crew of scurvy dogs inhabit the shop on a day-to-day basis, and I wouldn’t change a single one of ‘em!
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Brad Newlands is the owner and only staff member at his barbershop He enjoys working alone and the relationships he has with his clients He gives his top tips on running a small business
T0P TIPS REMEMBER YOUR CUSTOMERS: Remember what you’ve talked about, how they take their tea or coffee, and how they like their hair.
KEEP IT SIMPLE: If your customers can get a great haircut, a decent laugh and feel good then your work is done!
DON'T BE PUT OFF BY SOCIAL MEDIA: Some people have 15 shops and 100 staff, others far less. If you’re pleased with what you’re doing then you are exactly where you need to be!
APPOINTMENTS: Allocated timeslots prevent rushing or the atmosphere getting tough because people are waiting. Plus, it makes it much easier to plan your day.
Barberism TM
me i t n o i t i t e p m co
M
a s t e r b a r b e r Sid Sottung and Captain Fawcett, purveyor of Simply First Class Gentleman’s Grooming Requisites have collaborated to create Barberism™ a most outstanding range of essential grooming items for discerning barbers and their clients. For the simply delightful chance to receive a complete set of nourishing Barberism™ products it is required that one throws one’s name into the proverbial hat. To enter simply send an email with your contact details to admin@sng-publishing.co.uk titled “Captain Fawcett Barberism Competition”. The first name selected at random will be sent a Beard Balm, Beard Oil, Moustache Wax, Pre-Shave Oil and Travel-Size Beard Oil. Each delectable item has been expertly blended with Sid’s timeless and yet refreshingly elegant scent, boasting top notes of Lime and Orange, mid notes of Rose and Galbanum and earthier bases notes of Cedarwood, Patchouli and Musk. A reassuringly luxurious experience. All hail the hirsute. w w w . c a p ta i n f aw c e t t . c o m
Closing date: 26 April
Concept Hair Magazine promotions are open to UK residents who are studying for hairdressing and barbering qualifications and/or working in the hairdressing and barbering industry. Entry excludes employees of SNG Publishing, members of their families and anyone directly involved with the promotion. Entrants are bound by these terms & conditions. No purchase necessary. One entry per person. No bulk or third party entries. Prizes must be accepted as offered. No cash alternative. Not to be used in conjunction with any other offer or promotion. Prizes are as described. The winner will be selected from entries received. Winner will be notified within 28 days of the closing date. Winner may be required to take part in any publicity resulting from the competition and the promoter reserves the right to feature the name, photograph and details of the prize winner for future promotions. If you enter any competitions with sponsors it may be necessary for us to provide your personal information to the promoters of the competition or to others that are involved in the organisation of the competition or the prize-giving.
Winter 2019 \ Beards & Moustaches
Mike Taylor on Beards & Moustaches
For years, the clean-cut look topped the fashion stakes for men. Recently, however, the beard is the most on-trend accessory a gent can wear. Whether they are going for a full beard or a more pruned look, they will need help getting their facial hair into shape. Men can be very precious about their beards, so ensuring that you are competent at cutting facial hair is a key part of your job!
CONDUCTING A CONSULTATION > Look for any factors that may prevent the service from being carried out. > Ask your client to remove facial piercings. > Look for hair growth patterns, density and coarseness, head and face shape. > Discuss thoroughly what your client is looking for, providing an explanation if there is anything preventing him getting the finished look he requires. Provide ideas - although your client knows their face and beard best, you are the expert and may be able to offer insightful advice.
PREPARING YOUR CLIENT > Gown up to prevent any clippings falling down his neck, causing irritation. > Position your client correctly. Use a proper barber chair to ensure your posture is good and to prevent backache. > Recline the chair to a comfortable position for you to work at, then ask your client to sit down. > Make sure his feet are flat on the foot rest so he doesn’t lean to one side. > Be aware of clippings going into your client’s eyes. Some barbers like to protect the eyes with eye patches or cotton wool pads.
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Winter 2019 / Beards & Moustaches
FACIAL HAIR SHAPES THE MANY DIFFERENT BEARD AND MOUSTACHE SHAPES ALL FALL INTO ONE OF THESE FOUR CATEGORIES A FULL BEARD is when the facial hair covers the chin, neck, upper lip and cheeks. Considered the most masculine shape, the full beard can vary in length.
A PARTIAL BEARD covers many variations; it can include any style where the beard is not full, such as a chinstrap, a goatee, an old Dutch beard, mutton chops etc.
A TAPERED BEARD is when the beard is tapered or faded out at the edges. This is a shorter style and is currently a very popular look. When it is done right, this shape looks super smart!
A MOUSTACHE is the facial hair between the nostrils and top lip when no other beard hair is present. There are many different moustache shapes that can range from short and neat styles to long and overgrown styles.
HOW TO: GRADE ALL OVER 01 Start on one side and work methodically across the face. Use a comb to help lift the bristles and follow with the clippers. 02 Be firm with the clippers but ensure the guard doesn’t hurt the client. Although it is best to go against the growth of the beard, you will need to clipper in all directions to ensure you cut all of the hairs. 03 When you get to the moustache area, remove the guard and use the clipper or scissor over comb technique to cut to the desired length. 04 Once the beard is at an even length all over, neaten the edges. With your trimmers, tidy around the outline of the beard and moustache. 05 When cutting the neckline, start in the middle and work out to either side. If the client wants a tapered beard then blend in at the neckline. 06 Get your client to sit up straight to check that the beard is even.
These articles have been taken from Mike Taylor’s Barbering Resource Book II, which is available to buy from www.greatbritishbarberingacademy.com and Salon Services online and in-store. RRP £10. Concept Hair / 65
Winter 2019 \ How To
ROSS CHARLES STEP BY STEP – MEN’S LONG HAIR RAZOR CUTTING 01
Begin with parting the hair in a clean, crisp line down the centre of the head. Section the back of the hair and spray with a lubricant to ensure your razor glides through the hair. The Donald Scott NYC Prepare is ideal for this step as it contains coconut oil, sunflower oil and silk press powder which provides hair with equal slip and workability for perfect razor cutting.
02
03
Using a 45-degree angle, cut the hair section above your fingers by gently sliding down the hair shaft to begin to bring in that shape to the hair. Follow this technique through with each section of hair until you are at the front.
Elevate a crown section and direct peal cut to the desired length. Use your thumb and the razor blade to sandwich the hair and cut in an upward motion. The Donald Scott NYC Chop Stick Razor has a guard on it so with this technique you will not cut yourself by applying the pressure to your thumb.
For more How To videos make sure you head to concepthairmag.co.uk/how-tos
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Winter 2019 / How To 04
05
Following this, you will be required to re-section the hair. Take vertical sections and backcomb them with the 100% cut side of the Donald Scott NYC Carving Comb, leaving the interior strands free. With the 50% cut side of the Donald Scott NYC Carving Comb simply glide through the interior strands to take bulk out of the hair. This is a very effective seamless way to take the bulk out exactly where needed.
Finish with a salt spray to add definition and movement. The Ross Charles Sea Salt Spray is perfect for this step and one of my favourites.
06
To style you can finger dry the hair or use a diffuser for a natural look to really bring out all of the texture and structure you have just created within the hair. The shorter pieces inside act as scaffolding to support the longer lengths which will allow you to create shape and movement. Concept Hair / 67
Winter 2019 \ Exercises
VTCT (Vocational Training Charitable Trust) is a specialist awarding organisation offering vocational and technical qualifications in a range of service sectors. These exercises have been created in association with Pivot Point to test your knowledge on communication, technical and business skills. If you would like to know more about how one of VTCT’s courses could help further your career, check out the website: www.vtct.org.uk
HAIRDRESSING CORE SKILLS All successful hairdressers must master these 3 essential skills: 1. Excellent interpersonal communication skills 2. Meticulous knowledge and technical skills 3. Robust business judgement
CORE COMMUNICATION SKILLS Excellent interpersonal communication skills… true or false? Hairdressers should: ANSWER
Q1 Listen properly to clients
Q2
Repeat back to the client what they’ve said, so you show clients you know what they want
TRUE
FALSE
ANSWER
TRUE
FALSE
ANSWER
Q3 Only ask closed questions
TRUE
FALSE
ANSWER
Q4 Make eye contact when others speak to you
TRUE
FALSE
ANSWER
Q5 Not build a rapport with clients
TRUE
FALSE
Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free 68 / Concept Hair
Winter 2019 / Exercises
CORE COMMUNICATION SKILLS Tell us about a time you listened to someone successfully. Write down what techniques and skills you used, so they knew that you were listening.
State whether the questions below are open or closed conversations with your client. ANSWER
Q1 Are you okay?
Q2
Can you tell me what types of haircuts you have been looking at for inspiration?
OPEN
CLOSED
ANSWER
OPEN
CLOSED
ANSWER
Q3 What do you want to achieve with your hair today?
OPEN
CLOSED
ANSWER
Q4 Were you happy with your cut and colour last time you visited?
OPEN
CLOSED
ANSWER
Q5 Do you use tools or styling products?
OPEN
CLOSED
Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free Concept Hair / 69
Winter 2019 \ Exercises
METICULOUS KNOWLEDGE AND TECHNICAL SKILLS Did you know that all hairdressing qualifications have recently become graded on achievement? Learners can achieve either a fail, pass, merit or a distinction grade. The better you perform, the better the grade you will achieve. Match up the performance with the grade in these 3 areas: 1. Shampooing 2. Setting up work stations for service 3. Welcoming the client What grades would each of the below actions receive? Draw a line to indicate your answer. SHAMPOOING AND CONDITIONING HAIR WATER USAGE
ANS.
WORKING TOWARDS A: FAIL
Tap switched off when not rinsing
PASS Tap left running during service MERIT Tap switch off and water nozzle expertly used to avoid wasting water
WELCOMING A CLIENT INTO THE SALON ACKNOWLEDGING A CLIENT
DISTINCTION
ANS.
WORKING TOWARDS A: FAIL
Client acknowledged, seat and refreshment offered, timescale for service identified
PASS Client acknowledged and offered a seat MERIT No acknowledgment
SERVICE SETUP PREPARING FOR A SERVICE All tools and equipment gathered before service begins Incomplete setup, apprentice leaving client to collect service items All tools and equipment laid out in service order prior to start of service
DISTINCTION
ANS.
WORKING TOWARDS A: FAIL PASS MERIT DISTINCTION
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Winter 2019 / Exercises
ROBUST BUSINESS JUDGEMENT These are good customer service actions… true or false? ANSWER
Q1 Looking at your client when you say hello
TRUE
FALSE
ANSWER
Q2 Mumbling when you speak
TRUE
FALSE
ANSWER
Q3 Frowning when you speak
TRUE
FALSE
ANSWER
Q4 Offering to take someone’s coat
TRUE
FALSE
ANSWER
Q5 Ignoring a ringing phone
TRUE
FALSE
Something to try: Think of all the tasks in the salon that you do. List them here:
Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free Concept Hair / 71
Winter 2019 \ Exercises
ROBUST BUSINESS JUDGEMENT Is there one task that you think could be done better? This type of exercise is called process improvement. It’s a very important business judgement. You need to think about when something is working well and when it isn’t. Q1
What is it that you feel could be done better?
Q2
How can it be done better?
Q3
How will you tell your employer?
Q4
How can you implement change?
Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free 72 / Concept Hair
Hairdressing & Barbering Career Paths Bridal hair stylist
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Key Level 1 Hairdressing & Barbering general route Level 1 Hairdressing route Level 1 Barbering route
Level 2 Hairdressing & Barbering general route Level 2 Hairdressing route Level 2 Barbering route
Level 3 Hairdressing & Barbering general route Level 3 Hairdressing route Level 3 Barbering route Level 3 Hair, Beauty & Specialist route
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Hair: Colour Project 2018, Photography: Chris Bulezuik
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