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Interview with Jay Birmingham Top tips for a green salon Special feature: Wigs & Extensions
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Hair: F.A.M.E. Team 2019, Creative Direction: Nick Irwin, Photography: Arved Colvin-Smith
Join ClubStar today to enjoy free entry for some Fellowship events and give your career the best start possible!
The hairdressing industry is very competitive and busy business to be in, one where experience counts for everything! ClubStar membership is a sure fire way to get ahead, it’s the first step on the Fellowship ladder for hairdressers aged 16-25 and the ClubStar Art Team provides the best head start with mentoring, education and plenty of exciting opportunities.
fellowshiphair.com | info@fellowshiphair.com
Winter 2020 / Editor's Word
editor's word
H
ello and welcome to the winter issue of Concept Hair – it’s the start of a brand new decade and we hope you’re ready to take advantage of all the opportunities that come your way!
Concept Hair Apprentice of the Year, our brand new national competition, kicks off in January and we can’t wait to get out there and meet so many of you. We’ll tell you all about how it went in the summer issue, but in the meantime do check out our website and keep sending us pictures of your work – you may be featured in our next issue. In this issue, award-winning stylist Anne Veck talks us through her eye-opening new collection, which highlights the harmful environmental impact of the fashion industry, and we catch up with Karine Jackson’s top tips for making your salon green. We go behind-the-scenes with master wig makers Mandeville and talk to extension experts Inanch Emir and Michelle Griffin, who stress the importance of using ethically-sourced hair. We are delighted to bring you exciting interviews with celebrity hairdresser Jay Birmingham and barber Sid Sottung. We put our 20 questions to Harriet Stokes, Andrew Barton answers your hairdressing questions and as always there are exercises to get your brain working!
EDITOR: PHIL WILKINSON-JONES phil.wj@sng-publishing.co.uk
DIGITAL EDITOR: TOM TRACEY tom.tracey@sng-publishing.co.uk
GRAPHIC DESIGNER: LEE OWEN design@sng-publishing.co.uk
TECHNICAL CONTRIBUTORS: VTCT, Pivot Point
ADVERTISING: ZOË TANNER & PATRICK BLORE sales@sng-publishing.co.uk
MANAGING DIRECTOR: CELIA MATTHEWS celia.matthews@sng-publishing.co.uk
PRINTERS Stephens & George, Wales
DISCLAIMER Concept Hair Magazine is published by SNG Publishing Ltd (SNG). All content and artwork is © SNG Publishing Ltd or its contributors and SNG is a trade mark of SNG Publishing Ltd. No part of Concept Hair Magazine may be copied, transmitted or published in any form or by any means without prior permission. Although SNG has made every effort to ensure the accuracy of this publication, it does not verify any claims or other information appearing in the advertisements contained in Concept Hair Magazine. It therefore cannot accept any responsibility whatsoever for consequences that may arise from the content or artwork contained in Concept Hair Magazine, including any errors or omissions or any opinions or advice given therein. This publication and its content is not a substitute for professional advice on a particular matter. Advertisements are accepted for publication in Concept Hair only upon SNG Publishing Ltd standard terms of advertising.
Phil Wilkinson-Jones
Editor Cover photo credit: L'Oréal Professionnel
www.concepthairmag.co.uk
Search: ConceptHairMag
GENERAL ENQUIRIES To subscribe to Concept Hair Magazine call 0121 767 1891 or subscribe online at www.concepthairmag.co.uk
© SNG Publishing Ltd, 2020
Concept Hair / 01
Winter 2020 / Contents
contents
04
01
Editor’s Word
04 Latest News 06 Trending 08 Concept Hair Apprentice of the Year 2020
26
10
20 Things I Love with Harriet Stokes
12
Mandeville – Master Wig Makers
14
The Interview: Inanch Emir
16
Sourcing Hair Extensions with Michelle Griffin
18
Great Lengths Fashion Colours
19
Ask Andrew with Andrew Barton
20
The Interview: Jay Birmingham
24
How to Create: Intense Ash Blonde
26
Toxic Fashion by Anne Veck
28
Creating a Green Salon with Karine Jackson
30
Look Book: Gold Class Collection
33
Look Book: Alice Springs Collection
36
Look Book: Point Constellation
39
Look Book: Student Work
40 Look Book: Stranger Things Collection
02 / Concept Hair
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How to Create: Glam Textured Bob
44 How to Create: No Strings Attached Colour 46 How to Create: Block Colour 48 How to Create: Neon Alien Colour
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49 Working in a Salon Group 50
Running Your Own Salon with Jamie Brooks
54
Choose Your Own Path
Winter 2020 / Contents
56
Climbing the Ladder with Let Lew
58
The Interview: Shauna Walsh
73
60 The Interview: Sid Sottung 62
How to Create: The Wolf
64 Scissor Care with Bettertons 65
Beard Care with Joe Mills
66
Through the Keyhole: L’OrÊal Academies
73
Concept Hair Learner of the Month
20
10 46
40 Exercises
62
56
69
Wigs & Extensions
70
Colour Correction
71
Barbering: Cutting Facial Hair
Concept Hair / 03
Winter 2020 / News
latesTNews
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Tiger club earns its stripes
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n after-school scheme at Q Hair and Beauty has proved its worth time after time in providing budding hair stylists with the path to a rewarding career. The Tiger Club has been the foundation for many successful stylists at the Chichester salon and continues to lead the way in developing future professionals. The scheme aims to teach all the basic aspects of hairdressing, from blowdrying, curling and braiding to learning and understanding the colour wheel as well as upcoming trends that hit the catwalk. The club meets every Wednesday from 4pm to 6pm and is free of charge.
2
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Robert Eaton named British Hairdresser of the Year obert Eaton has been named British Hairdresser of the Year at HJ’s British Hairdressing Awards 2019.
He was also inducted into the British Hairdressing Awards Hall of Fame for his three consecutive Schwarzkopf Professional Colour Technician of the Year wins in 2016, 2017 and 2018. Robert said: “I was overwhelmed to be nominated in the first place, so to win this year is absolutely mind-blowing.” Other winners on the night included Federico Patelli from TONI&GUY, who won the inaugural Trend Image of the Year title, and Jacky Chan, who won International Collection of the Year. The event was hosted by TV star Rylan Clark-Neal with entertainment from the Hoosiers. Hosts Schwarzkopf Professional presented a stunning ‘Celebration of Colour’ show.
andbeauty.co.uk For more info visit qhair @robertjeaton
3 i
iSalon’s Mike braves the shave for charity
Salon’s Head of Sales Mike Waldon braved the shave (and some hair colour) to raise money for The Pituitary Foundation.
The haircut raised nearly £500 for the charity, which raises awareness of pituitary
disorders and provides support to those affected by pituitary disease. Supporters voted on social media for iSalon’s Head of Product and Education Rikki Tronson to give Mike a colourful Mohican.
You can still donate at www.justgiving.com/fundraising/mikeshairdesign 04 / Concept Hair
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Winter 2020 / News
RUSH Hair teams up with cancer charity USH Hair has announced a collaboration with Girl Vs Cancer, a charity that supports those affected by cancer.
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Wakefield salon tackles plastic waste
Education Director Paola Pinto has led the RUSH creative team on three photographic shoots so far and there are further campaigns planned.
Wakefield hair salon has introduced a shampoo refill station to help its customers cut down on single-use plastics.
Girl Vs Cancer was founded three years ago by Lauren Mahon, a breast cancer survivor, and provides women with a platform of guidance and support through times of hardship and emotional suffering.
En Route Hair & Beauty invites customers to reuse, recycle and refill their empty product containers. The offer has already been taken up by a good number of clients, with more indicating their willingness to bring bottles back for refill.
Paola said: “Lauren and her team are establishing a great community network for those affected by cancer. On each campaign we are so lucky to meet some amazing people and making them feel good about themselves is something I am truly honoured to be a part of.”
Owner Melenie Tudor, a seven-time North West Hairdresser of the Year finalist, said: “Hairdressing isn’t the kindest industry to the planet with all the product waste, water and electricity usage. I’m changing things to reduce my business’ waste and its negative environmental footprint.”
Find out more at enroute.
uk.com
.co.uk re info visit girlvscancer
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Salon keeps its trainees safe salon group has gone the extra mile to help keep its trainees safe during the dark winter months.
Spirit Hair has provided all of its apprentices with police-approved personal alarm devices that emit a loud noise when activated in the event of an emergency.
The salon’s management wanted to ensure their team of trainee hairdressers stayed safe when walking or catching the bus to and from work. Co-owner Lauren Turner said: “For a small investment, it’s a great way to look after your team.”
Find out more at www.spir
ithaircompany.com
For more news from the world of hairdressing, head to concepthairmag.co.uk/news
Concept Hair / 05
Winter 2020 / Trending
Trending hair trends
BY TOM TRACEY, DIGITAL EDITOR
The latest figures from stats website Statista show that 16.5% of UK shopping is done online. The same website says that in 2021, 93% of UK internet users will do online shopping – the highest rate in Europe. So how can hairdressers, who offer a physical service, tap into this wealth of customers? Being creative and innovative is key. You should ideally set up a Facebook and Instagram page, so you can answer any customer questions, post photos of your work and house all the details a customer would need to find you. Having a website listing all your services, contact details and information is also a great idea – you can create them with simple-to-use software like WordPress, and they don’t cost too much to maintain. But if you can offer anything extra, this could be the difference when tempting new customers. For example, potential clients can now take an interactive virtual reality tour of the Ashley Gamble salon in Shifnal, Shropshire.
Think outside the box – even if you are on a budget – and you could elevate your business!
THE BOB
When we think of 1920s hair, the bob is usually the first style that springs to mind. This was the first time women had been allowed to wear their hair short and it caused huge scandal – with angry fathers suing hair salons that cut their daughters’ hair short. The first bob cuts were actually cut in the early 1900s, but as it was so revolutionary for women to wear their hair short, it took time for the trend to catch on. With increased women’s liberation in the ‘20s and more daring, directional clothing choices, the bob caught on with fashionable women throughout the
Courtesy of the International Museum of Photography at George Eastman House Film Stills Collection
The tour features integrated clickable hotspots to encourage clients to discover products, book in for services and learn more about the treatments available.
As we enter a new decade – the 2020s – Rachael Gibson, AKA The Hair Historian, looks back 100 years to an era of iconic hairstyles that are still having an impact on fashion trends today.
#EditorFilter
digital 1920s column
Actress Louise Brooks helped popularise the bob during the 1920s
06 / Concept Hair
Winter 2020 / Trending
Courtesy of Studio - eBay, Public Domain
Dates for your diary
13th Jan - 12th Feb - Concept Hair Apprentice of the Year Regional Heats Mary Astor, the American actress, sporting Marcel waves
decade. French designer Coco Chanel helped to make the bob a chic option and broadened its appeal, but it wasn’t as widespread as movies and TV might portray – many women opted for fake bobs and created the illusion of short hair by tucking their hair under. Today, short hair is still associated with confident, strong women and angular, technical bobs remain a hairdressing classic.
MARCEL WAVES
The bob was often complemented with Marcel waves – named after French hairstylist Marcel Grateau, who created the technique and patented some of the world’s earliest professional hair tongs. His first curling iron was patented in 1905 and had to be heated up in the fire, which often led to burnt hair. He created an electric version in 1918, which was used to style hair safely in deep, crested, S-shaped waves throughout the 1920s. This wavy finish was a popular way of softening short hair and ‘feminising’ the bob. Today, curls and waves have never been more popular as clients embrace their natural texture, or create it through the modern equivalents to the Marcel tong.
ETON CROP
For those that dared, the Eton crop provided an even shorter alternative to the bob. Popularised by dancer Josephine Baker and actress Leatrice Joy, this style emerged in the late 1920s and was modelled on the haircut worn by boys at the famous English school. The super-short cut was androgynous by nature, and was enhanced even further with the use of hair pomades to keep the hair super slick and shiny. It was an extremely daring look and incredibly rebellious, and represented women’s increasing power and place in society. Wearing hair so short remains a daring statement to this day, with celebrities attracting attention whenever they choose to crop their hair. However for those with the confidence, face shape and features to pull it off, it’s an impossibly chic choice.
23rd - 24th Feb - Pro Hair Live, Manchester Central 26th March - Concept Hair Apprentice of the Year Grand Final 29th - 29th - 30th March - HJ Live, ExCel London
fun facts US TV show BIG! created the largest working hair clippers in the world in 2004. They measured 16ft 0.5in (4.88m) long, 4ft 6in (1.36m) wide and 3ft 1.75in (95cm) tall and the blade was 4ft 6in wide. The most common hair colour in the world is black. When David Beckham appeared on the cover of British GQ with a 'faux-hawk' ready for World Cup 2002, bookings in the salon of his stylist, Adee Phelan, went up by a reported 3,000%. A beauty study by Buyagift found that a wash, blow dry and cut was more relaxing than a deep tissue massage - and only beaten by a neck and shoulder massage in a list of the 10 most relaxing treatments. Concept Hair / 07
08 / Concept Hair
We’re incredibly excited to get the competition underway and whether you’re competing, modelling or looking on as a proud lecturer or employer, we’re sure you’ll have a fantastic time!
hose taking part in the regional events will be looking to impress the judges and earn a place at the Grand Final, which takes place at the L’Oréal Professionnel Academy in London in March.
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The first ever Concept Hair Apprentice of the Year competition takes in six regional heats and sees student and apprentice hairdressers and barbers competing across five distinct categories – Styling, Hair Up, Barbering, Colouring and Avant-Garde.
OF THE YEAR 2020
APPRENTICE
26th March L’Oréal Professionnel Academy, London
7. GRAND FINAL
#CONCEPTHAIR AOY20
12th February Bucks College Group, Aylesbury Campus
6. SOUTH EAST
10th February Stephenson College
5. MIDLANDS
29th January Hugh Baird College
4. NORTH WEST
27th January New College Durham
3. NORTH EAST
15th January Coleg y Cymoedd, Nantgarw Campus
2. WALES
13th January Petroc College, Mid Devon Campus
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Winter 2020 / 20 Things I Love
20 things i love
Harriet Stokes is a stylist at Sophia Hilton’s Not Another Salon and teaches around the world with Not Another Academy. She has completed two years with the L'Oréal ID team, won the L'Oréal Colour Trophy star award and is a L'Oréal colour specialist. We caught up with Harriet to see what makes her tick. l?
Who is your ultimate hair ido
ing brand? Favourite colour Color
Angelo Seminara
L'Oréal & Crazy
Cutting, styling or colouring?
Ooh, I love all three but if I had to pick one it would be colouring. There’s SO much you can do with colour and it can completely change someone
Favourite celebrity haircut?
a?
I actually can’t remembe r but I’m loving @kirstyannehair right no w, I recently started following her.
Starter 90% of the time
If you could style anyone’s hair, who would it be?
Most prized possession? My mom’s engagement ring
Cara Delevingne
Ketchup or mayo?
What would your life be like without Instagram?
Ketchup all the way
I’d have more time!
or late nights? Early mornings t I love early
nights bu Currently late er time e spring/summ mornings in th
Tell us something nobody knows about you? Colouring used to be what I enjoyed least out of everything I did. Now it’s my favourite thing to do
What inspires you the most?
photos on Flicking through my saved inspired, or Instagram gets me pretty sy place and sitting somewhere in a bu around me taking in what’s happening
Summer or w
inter? Ooh, this one’s hard. I love win ter, around Christm as time when th ere’s so much love and happiness arou nd. Plus, I love wearing la yers, boots and hats!
Describe being a hairdresser in three words? Creative, fun and fulfilling
best hairdressing tip you’ve ever been given? My first boss Theo said to me once: “Fail to prepare, prepare to fail.” It’s always stayed with me
had?
uldn't let me have When I was 15 my mom wo self and it looked an under-cut so I did it my someone with scissors like I’d been attacked by in my sleep
Favourite hair trend at the moment? Lived-in balayage
@harriet_stokes 10 / Concept Hair
Last person you followed on Instagram?
Starter or dessert?
to see I recently took my mom the bu Luce. It’s a good film t at! gre ending’s not
Worst haircut you’ve ever
na I can make banging bana d an it fru pancakes with maple syrup on top
It has to be Alexa Chung's fringe – I love a choppy fringe!
em Last film you saw at the cin
Best thing you can cook?
Winter 2020 / Wigs & Extensions
master WIG MAKERS Mandeville has been at the forefront of the wig-making industry for 50 years, creating high quality, handmade wigs at its studio in central London. Director Robert Frostick showed us around the studio and talked us through the wig-making process.
It's so rewarding to see the “change in a client – we can literally change their lives ”
Concept Hair: Hi Robert! How did you get into the hairdressing industry? Robert Frostick: My father was a hairdresser and had his own business. I never thought I’d do the same thing but ended up giving it a go and absolutely loved it. I worked in Mayfair at many of the big names in the industry and it gave me a fantastic start to an amazing career. CH: What is the most rewarding part of what you do? RF: It’s so rewarding to see the change from when a client first walks in to see us with hair loss and then the difference at the end – it can literally change their lives. We don’t like calling them wigs, because of the negative connotations – we call them heads of hair. We disguise the hair so well that you can’t tell where the client’s hair meets the hair that we add. CH: How do you source the hair that you use? RF: The quality of hair that you purchase is really important. So, we use a reliable hair merchant who is also a hair preparer. You have to be careful who you use to supply hair and make sure that every strand is the same length. We buy a kilo of hair at a time and it must all be uniform in length. Our hair preparer ensures that every hair in that kilo is exactly the same length – whether that’s 12 inches, 14 inches and so on. Without using a reputable hair merchant, you could receive a variety of lengths and lose half of that in the preparation process CH: How much does it cost to source quality hair? RF: The cost of hair varies, it’s dependent on length. On average, we’ll spend £800 to £1,500 on hair alone. Sometimes we’ve spent £3,000 on hair. These costs have to be passed on to the client. CH: Do you get many men using your service? RF: 98% of our clients are women. Times are changing and more men are beginning to come in – men's hair pieces are much more acceptable in the US. In the UK there is still a stigma attached, but times are slowly changing. [Hair loss is] still the butt of a joke in the UK, guys will just shave their hair off.
Winter 2020 / Wigs & Extensions
Steps for making a made-to-measure wig:
The foundation is made first. So, to begin with we make a template of the client’s head. The template would then be transferred to a block.
We then make a foundation from the template, that's padded out on the block.
The client gets the opportunity to see the hair that’s been ordered for them to check that they are happy. They can then say yes or no to the hair. We are pretty good at what we do so we normally get it right first time.
If the client is happy it gets sent to the knotter and the hair is knotted into the foundation. It then goes through a number of other processes, for example all the polymer work that goes into the wigs.
“
You can't tell where the client's hair meets the hair that we add
”
The client will come back for a second fitting and we will try the foundation on their head. If we have to change the hair line or raise it over the ears etc, it will be done then. This is important to ensure it’s fitted properly.
The client comes back for a third time when the hair is put on the head and cut. The whole process is very thorough and takes place over a period of four or five months.
Find out more about Mandeville at www.mandevillelondon.com Concept Hair / 13
Winter 2020 / Wigs & Extensions
I will always use real hair. “ You can buy cheap hair but it will never be as good ”
the interview
Inanch Emir World renowned extensionist Inanch Emir has won numerous awards, has her own ‘Gold Class’ range of hair extensions, as featured in the Look Book on Page 30, and an impressive celebrity clientele. We caught up with Inanch to talk extensions, celebrities and more.
@inanchlondon 14 / Concept Hair
Winter 2020 / Wigs & Extensions
you source your hair responsibly. “MakeAll sure of our hair is sourced ethically ” Concept Hair: What inspired you to get into hairdressing?
about. Sometimes I will go to India and purchase the hair myself. Obviously, not everyone can afford the expense and time to go to India but you can find ethical wholesalers. Real hair cuts better and has a much fuller body.
Inanch Emir: From as far back as I can remember, I was always interested in hairdressing. All of my dolls had no hair by the time I finished plaiting them! I was always making wigs and creating things with hair. My parents wanted me to do a business course and said if I still wanted to have a career in hair after that, then I could. So I got my business studies qualifications and then went straight on to a hairdressing course!
CH: What was your first step to start working with celebrities?
CH: How has the hair industry changed since you first started? IE: Well, I’m 45 now and I started hairdressing when I was 16, so there’s been quite a lot of change since I started. It’s certainly more competitive. There are a lot of great hairdressers out there but there are also a lot of people doing cheap cuts and offering hair extensions who aren’t properly trained and have just watched a YouTube tutorial.
Inanch with Mischa Barton
IE: It was really word of mouth. Once you get noticed then word gets around and you’re recommended over and over again. My clients keep coming back to me. I’ve had one client since I was 16 years old! There are lots of celebrities who don’t want it known that they have hair extensions, but there are also some who do and they will mention you on Instagram, which is really great. I even had Kylie Minogue’s hairdresser recommend me to Michelle Collins, whose hair I ended up doing. I still don’t think I’ve ever met the hairdresser who recommended me. CH: If you could give some advice to those just starting out in the industry, what would it be?
It’s really concerning to me because applying hair extensions is a real skill and it must be done properly or you could damage the client’s own hair. Also, be careful who you buy hair from. There is a lot of cheap, poor quality hair on the market which won’t last long at all. You’ll lose credibility with your clients. Do your research.
IE: Don’t be scared to go out and work. Assist as many artists as you can. Get all the qualifications you can get. Give your time for free if you need to – it will pay back to you in the end.
CH: How do you source your hair?
Get all the “ qualifications
IE: I will always use real hair. You can buy cheap hair but it will never be as good and it won’t consist of enough real hair. Remy hair is the best type of hair to purchase, although not to be confused with the brand!
you can get. Give your time for free if you have to
You should make sure that you source your hair responsibly. All of our hair is sourced ethically. This is so important and something that I feel very strongly
”
Find out more about Inanch at inanch.com Concept Hair / 15
Winter 2020 / Wigs & Extensions
SOURCING HAIR
EXTENSION Michelle Griffin, owner of Griffins Hair Salon and Loxbox Hair Extensions, talks us through the process of setting up an extensions brand and sourcing hair ethically.
Concept Hair: How long did it take you to source Loxbox extensions? Michelle Griffin: Sourcing my extensions brand was not something I went out looking for, a manufacturer approached me and so my career turned onto another path. I have held Loxbox in my hands for approximately four to five years but I only put the brand to market in the last two years. Designing the packaging, logo and brand guidelines took between six months to one year, as it had to be right and represent myself as the Director and driving force of the brand. CH: Can you explain the process of sourcing hair? MG: To find a good quality of hair takes time as you need to test it. Once I was given the hair I spent between one and two years testing it on myself, staff, 16 / Concept Hair
models and clients to ensure I had all the necessary feedback and was happy with the quality of the hair. With any product, it’s important to test it for quite some time in order to make sure you are 100% happy with the quality and how it performs. CH: Where does the hair come from? MG: There are many places to collect hair from around the world including India, China and Russia and there are different levels of quality and different types of hair. Some of the hair cannot be tinted – it depends on the condition of the cuticle, which reflects on pricing. Loxbox is 100% human hair of a great quality that is dyed to match our colour ring and the hair is of a high gradient.
Winter 2020 / Wigs & Extensions
NS
the best on the market – “hairI want that is not over-processed with the cuticle in amazing condition ”
Loxbox is 100% human hair dyed to match a colour ring
CH: Why did you choose this form of hair? MG: I want the best on the market – hair that is not over-processed with the cuticle in amazing condition. I need to fulfill the salons’ needs for their clients and not worry that their service will fail. CH: Is the hair ethically traceable? MG: The hair is ethically traceable through the manufacturer I use. They guarantee the products are 100% ethical and that human rights are met. Concept Hair / 17
Winter 2020 / Wigs & Extensions
fashion colours
Great Lengths team up with fashion colour superstar and Great Lengths certified stylist Samuel Burley to create two looks using the limited edition colours Dusty Pink and Coral.
@greatlengthsuk @samyuwel
Concept Hair: Hi Samuel, how did you create and finish these looks?
CH: How did you find working with the new colours?
CH: How was it working with the new GL Tape Minis?
Samuel Burley: I wanted to highlight how easy it is to effectively lengthen and thicken clients’ hair seamlessly using GL Tapes. Both of the girls required extra coverage around the hairline and crown, which is where the GL Tape Minis really allowed me to push the boundaries and hide the shorter hair. I kept the styling soft and simple to show off the colour.
SB: I absolutely love the limited edition colours, they’re both on trend and completely timeless. These colours from Great Lengths allow my clients to experience the colours without the full time commitment. Usually, fashion colours fade fast and require lots of maintenance but these from Great Lengths retain the colour, keeping it vibrant and fresh for longer.
SB: The GL Tape Minis are amazing for clients who need that little bit of extra help with coverage, especially around the hairline and crown. Even though the regular sized tapes are small, these are absolutely tiny and very discreet which opens up even more possibilities to us as stylists, allowing us to push the boundaries even further.
LOOK 1
BEFORE
LOOK 2
AFTER
BEFORE
AFTER
See the full video showcasing the limited edition colours at www.concepthairmag.co.uk
EXCLUSIVE STUDENT DISCOUNT 18 / Concept Hair
Receive a £250 voucher to be redeemed against hair sales once fully certified. Quote CONCEPT250 when you get in touch to make your first order after completing your course.
Want to become a Great Lengths certified stylist? Book onto a one-day GL Tape course. For more details and 2020 course dates contact sales@greatlengthshair.co.uk or 0113 278 1292
#askandrew
Concept Hair has teamed up with celebrity hairdresser Andrew Barton to help answer your niggling salon questions. Here are a couple of the questions you sent us on Instagram. @hairbycrystal.chelsea asked: “How do you build your own confidence in consultation?”
Andrew: Practice, practice and practice! Try role playing with colleagues and friends and this will help you to become less nervous in a consultation situation. Make sure you understand face shapes, a client’s lifestyle and their hair type. Use a tablet or magazines to reference images so you understand exactly what the client wants – her interpretation of blonde may not be yours. It really is about experience – the more consultations you do, the more confident you will become. @kerrieann_ asked: “How important is the correct model for competition work?”
Andrew: Nobody expects students to pay for professional models but choose carefully. You need someone with the right hair type for your look and that you are confident working with them. You need a reliable model – you don’t want them to let you down on competition day. Think about the whole look and how your model will suit that. For photographic competitions the emphasis is usually focused on just the hair and face so you need to ensure that your model’s face suits your look – and make sure your make-up is applied well – the camera tends to exaggerate detail. Get in touch on Instagram to put your questions to Andrew. Just remember to use the hashtag #AskAndrew and tag @concepthairmag
GL TAPES
Want to find out more? Call +44 (0) 113278 1292 or email info@greatlengthshair.co.uk
have had lots “of Ihighs in my career and I feel really grateful and lucky to have experienced so much already
”
the interview
HOT TIP Always be patient and keep working hard and do as much as you can for experience
jay birmingham
Jay Birmingham opened his own salon last year and has a growing celebrity clientele that includes Love Island’s Maura Higgins, former X Factor winner Louisa Johnson and Instagram star Polly Marchant. Jay took time from his busy schedule to talk to Concept Hair about his remarkable rise to hairdressing fame.
@jaybirminghamhair 20 / Concept Hair
Winter 2020 / The Interview Hi Jay! Thanks for taking the time to speak to us! Can you tell us how you got started in the hairdressing industry?
What was it like working with the hairdressing legend that is Nicky Clarke?
When I left school, I went to work in the bank and while I earned good money there, I knew that it wasn’t my passion. My colleague was leaving to open her own salon and asked me to go with her. It was such a risk but I knew it would be worth it to follow my passion and I am so glad I took that leap of faith.
Quite intense but in a good way, I learnt a lot from him and he is a real master of his craft. It was very challenging but the best experience of my life, I learnt stuff from him that's got me to where I am today – its not just about cutting hair, it's the whole service from start to finish and I appreciate working alongside him at the start of my career.
Can you remember your first ever client?
What was your first step into the world of celebrity hairdressing?
I always remember this client as she had been going to Nicky Clarke for years and always used the top stylists. When I was training, she said to me: “When you qualify I’m coming to you.” Initially I was really scared to cut her hair because she was with the top stylists in the salon and I was worried I wouldn’t do a good job. Years later and I still do her hair now!
Working with Helen Flanagan, she came to me at Nicky Clarke as a client. We have worked together ever since and now we are best friends.
What is the proudest moment of your career so far? I have had lots of highs in my career and I feel really grateful and lucky to have experienced so much already. I think opening my own salon has to be my ultimate highlight. It was such an incredible feeling opening the doors to my own salon in my hometown. Another proud moment is when people I used to work with ask to come and work for me, it is so flattering and a massive honour.
Louisa Johnson
If you could give one piece of advice to someone just starting out in the industry, what would it be? Always be patient and keep working hard and do as much as you can for experience. You have to be really dedicated to be a successful hairdresser. It can be a very challenging and taxing job and if you don’t have the passion and drive for the industry then I don’t believe it is the right career for you. If you are driven and determined to succeed then go for it as it is hugely rewarding and the opportunities are endless.
Maura Higgins
What is your favourite thing about your job? Working for myself and being my own boss. There is also nothing more rewarding than client feedback, I love making my clients look and feel happy and beautiful. What do you hope to achieve in the future? Opening my second salon in my hometown – I want to build up the team and look at educating people to work alongside me, building up my brand even more.
Quickfire Questions: Favourite food? Prawn pasta Tea or coffee? Black coffee Favourite film of all time? Mrs Doubtfire What is your favourite hobby? Going to the gym and shopping for nice clothes Who would be your top three fantasy dinner party guests? Rihanna, Kim Kardashian and Prince Harry
Polly Marchant
Concept Hair / 21
CAREER
Winter 2020 / How To
how to create l'oréal professionnel intense ash blonde With 194 shades to choose from, including nine new Cool Inforced shades, L'Oréal Professionnel's Majirel system allows you to play around endlessly with colour. Grace Dalgleish of Brooks & Brooks shows us how to create this intense ash blonde look.
DIAGNOSIS • Uncoloured and highlighted hair (one year ago) • Natural base 6 with highlights on lengths and ends. (last application one year ago)
MIXES PREPARE 2 MIXES: • One with Majirel 50ml 7.1 Cool Inforced with 75ml of 20 vol oxydant
STEP 1 ON THE ROOTS, apply Majirel 7.1 Cool Inforced mix
• One with Majirel 50ml 10.1 Cool Inforced with 75ml of 30 vol oxydant
STEP 2 L'Oréal Professionnel's Steampod 3.0 gives you a continuous flow of high pressure steam and can be used to create a variety of finishes, from smooth and supple looks to soft waves. Ideal for thick or damaged hair, the Steampod Smoothing Cream prepares, primes and protects hair during the straightening process.
24 / Concept Hair
ON THE LENGTHS AND ENDS, take through with the Majirel 10.1 Cool Inforced mix
Winter 2020 / How To
BEFORE AFTER
#playwithmajirel
FINISH Develop for 35 minutes, then rinse with Serie Expert Vitamino Colour and style
finished LOOK Hair by Grace Dalgleish at Brooks & Brooks for L’Oréal Professionnel
Share your take on this look using
#PLAYWITHMAJIREL Concept Hair / 25
Winter 2020 / Ethical Hairdressing
Toxic Fashion Anne Veck has won numerous awards for her approach to running an environmentally friendly salon. She talks us through her new collection Toxic Fashion, which highlights the harmful environmental impact of the fashion industry. @annevecksalons
Textile Dyeing & Water Usage
plastic & pollution
The model lying on a pile of clothes symbolises the waste of our society. She is also wearing a mask, as she is suffocating from the overuse of chemicals needed to dye textiles.
The model’s blonde wig has plastic melted within the hair to represent the pollution surrounding us.
How can salons make a change? Salons use a lot of water! But there are ways to reduce this consumption. At the backwash, shampoo your client’s hair once, not twice, and use water-saving devices such as water-minimising shower heads.
26 / Concept Hair
making a stand against plastic Start a non-plastic habit and declare your salon a single-useplastic free zone! Start a recycling incentive for customers where they can bring their empty plastic shampoo and conditioner bottles back in to be refilled for a reduced price.
Winter 2020 / Ethical Hairdressing
I
believe that all salons should do everything they can to save the planet by reducing their carbon emissions and cutting down on waste. Unfortunately, the nature of hairdressing is not very green, so I decided to make a special effort to reduce my salon’s negative impact. Sustainability requires conscious change. It encompasses everything from using toilet paper made of bamboo, to choosing disposable and compostable towels, to installing LED lighting, to buying your energy from a green provider. Reduce your energy consumption to reduce your carbon emissions, and then reduce your use of plastic packaging and start opting for organic products. I truly believe that the hairdressing industry could lead the way in sustainability for business in the UK. Salons are hubs of the community. We’re with so many clients each week that we can be great champions of sustainability and spread that message. It doesn’t matter if you’re a single salon, never underestimate the influence you can have.
HOT TIP Switching to disposable towels means there’s no need for washing machines or dryers, further reducing your carbon footprint
You can see the full collection and find more of Anne’s tips for creating a green salon at anneveckhair.com
Unethical Cotton
Ghost Fishing & Plastic Invasion
The model is observing and lamenting the tragedy of cotton workers who suffer illnesses and death in its production.
The model is trapped, caught in her hair and suffocating like millions of birds and fish.
What do we do about this?
How do salons make a change?
Cotton is a problem because of the huge amounts of water required to produce it. Cut down on cotton towels by using biodegradable alternatives. These towels are disposable and disappear in landfill after 12 weeks, leaving no trace.
There may be more plastic in the oceans than fish, so do everything you can to use less plastic. Check all your hairdressing and cosmetics products to make sure they don't contain plastic micro beads.
Concept Hair / 27
Winter 2020 / Ethical Hairdressing
creating a green salon Former London Hairdresser of the Year Karine Jackson’s Covent Garden salon was the first certified sustainable salon in London and she has been flying the flag for ethical hairdressing for more than 15 years. Karine gives us her top tips for sustainable hairdressing.
5
Because there were no Ecover [cleaning product] refill stations near us, we now offer this at the salon, so as well as refilling our own cleaning products, our clients can fill up too!
6
Salon culture is really important, you need everyone on board to make it work. We watched the David Attenborough documentary together and we have initiatives like a colour waste bucket – any waste colour goes in and we measure at the end of the week.
1
Download Turning The Tide On Plastic on Audible, and get passionate about why we need to reduce single-use plastic.
2
Do a plastic audit – just keep hold of all the plastic that comes into your salon in a week. Then start reducing it – could you swap to the same thing without the plastic?
3
We’ve changed to Who Gives A Crap toilet roll – it comes wrapped in paper and the cardboard tube is smaller so you get more tissue to the roll. Talk to your suppliers and manufacturers and let them know you don’t want unsustainable items coming into your salon.
Other swaps the salon has made include: Bottled water
Filtered water in glasses
Cotton towels
EasyDry disposable towels
Foils
Paper Not Foil sustainable hair foils
Plastic bags
Paper or canvas bags
Cut flowers
Potted plants
Printed price lists
Online lists
Single-use cleaning products
Refillable cleaning products
4
We use Organic Colour Systems, made in the UK and packaged in 100% recycled plastic bottles, and we offer a refill service for clients. Find out more at karinejackson.co.uk 28 / Concept Hair
k o o L ook B e h T
WIN
0 2 0 2 TER
GOLD CLASS COLLECTION Hair by: Inanch Emir & Anne Veck using Gold Class hair pieces Make-up by: Holly Pollack Photography by: Desmond Murray
Winter 2020 / Look Book
Concept Hair / 31
Winter 2020 / Look Book
GOLD CLASS
32 / Concept Hair
ELEVEN AUSTRALIA ALICE SPRINGS COLLECTION Hair by: ELEVEN Australia Co-Creative Director Joey Scandizzo Make-up by: Kylie O’Tooler Styling by: Karly Brown Photography by: ELEVEN Australia Co-Creative Director Andrew O’Toole
ALICE SPRINGS
JUSTIN HARRIS PHOTOGRAPHY
Fashion ~Beaut y ~Hair Based in Swansea with fully equipped professional photographic studio. Available throughout the UK & worldwide. Extensive experience shooting fashion & hair. Get in touch NOW to bring your images to the next level!
justinharrisphotography
justinharrisphotographyuk
www.justinharrisphotography.co.uk 07971 487799 01792 898544
POINT CONSTELLATION Hair by: RUSH International Creative Director Andy Heasman Make-up by: Megumi Matsuno & Elisabet Papathanasiou Styling by: Magdalena Jacobs Photography by: Jack Eames In October 2019, Andy Heasman won London Hairdresser of the Year at the British Hairdressing Awards with this collection.
Winter 2020 / Look Book
RUSH Concept Hair / 37
STUDENT WORK Hair by: Patience Aurelien, a Level 3 Hairdressing student at Croydon College.
STRANGER THINGS COLLECTION Hair by: Justin Carr, Tom Baxter and Myles Lewis of OSMO Creative Team Styling by: Joey Bevan Photography by: Jen Baker
40 / Concept Hair
STRANGER THINGS
Winter 2020 / How To
how to create
Cloud Nine’s GLAM TEXTURED BOB
Do you love the effortless, messy hair look, but hate the amount of effort that actually has to go into creating it? Cloud Nine has you covered, with this gorgeous tousled look that couldn’t be easier. It’s quick and easy to create – making it perfect for a chic day-to-day look.
PREP First, spray the hair generously with Cloud Nine’s Magical Quick Dry Potion. This multitasking hair hero not only dries hair up to 50% faster, but also conditions, protects and adds a gorgeous shine.
STEP 1 Place The Original Iron close to the top of the length of hair, pointing downwards. Twist the Iron through the hair, stopping twisting just below the end of the hair to avoid curling the very ends. Twist in alternate directions throughout the hair to create a less uniform look.
42 / Concept Hair
STEP 2 When you’ve finished curling, spray the hair with a salt spray for added texture and volume.
Winter 2020 / How To
Comb through the curls using Cloud Nine’s Luxury Texture Comb to make them loose, messy and ultra sexy.
#cloudninehair
STEP 3
STEP 4 Take The Original Iron and lightly apply heat to the roots for extra volume. Spritz the hair with a hairspray for volume and hold.
FINISH To finish, run your hands through the hair for a tousled, undone finish. We’re OBSESSED! Share your take on this look using
#CLOUDNINEHAIR Up to
60% off
finished LOOK
Exclusive student offers Cloud Nine, proud sponsor of Concept Hair Apprentice of the Year, is offering students exclusive discounts of up to 60% off its products. For more details, contact the Cloud Nine Trade team on 0845 2003563 . Concept Hair / 43
Winter 2020 / How To
#WellaColour #ColourFlirt
how to create
No Strings Attached colour Robert Eaton, Wella Professionals UK and Ireland Technical Director and 2019 British Hairdresser of the Year, shows us how to achieve low commitment colour results using Wella’s No Strings Attached colour glossing service.
step 3
stepS 1-2 Choose your colour and pre-shampoo the hair. Section the hair.
Take a clean, dry colour brush after you have finished your colour application and use it to blend the roots of your two chosen colours
Mix and apply your colour • One part Koleston Perfect ME+ • One part Welloxon Perfect 1.9% Pastel Developer • One part INVIGO Post Color Treatment
FORMULA A: • • •
10g 7/75 10ml Welloxon Perfect 1.9% Pastel Developer 10ml INVIGO Post Color Treatment
FORMULA B: • • •
30g 5/75 30ml Welloxon Perfect 1.9% Pastel Developer 30ml INVIGO Post Color Treatment
To book face-to-face or online education and find out more about Wella courses go to education.wella.com Discover the products at uk.wellastore.com 44 / Concept Hair
10% your first off order!
Develop for between five and 10 minutes. Rinse. There is no need to shampoo or condition. Style with EIMI.
finished LOOK
rob's top TIP
stepS 4 - 5
@wellahairuk
Winter 2020 / How To
how to create
block colour
VTCT has partnered with Pivot Point to bring you LAB, a bespoke learning resource for all VTCT learners. This step-by-step takes you through a short graduated look enhanced with a block colour technique. This area will be coloured with a graphite colour
A bright accent colour will be placed in the zigzag section
The rest of the hair will remain a platinum blonde
During the consultation, check how the hair moves in the hairstyle overall and identify areas to be emphasised with colour.
The fringe and front hairline are sectioned from in front of the ear diagonally toward the fringe, and then in a curved zigzag line across.
step 1 Begin the application in the section along the face. Outline the section with graphite colour. Position the brush at an angle to carefully outline through the zigzag area.
46 / Concept Hair
step 2 Apply the colour from the roots to ends.
Winter 2020 / How To
step 3 Use a large comb to ensure even saturation and to direct the hair around the face.
step 5 Comb the hair from roots to ends.
step 4 Use foil to isolate the section. Release the curved zigzag parting. Starting on one side, apply the accent colour from roots to ends. (The colour used here is a pastel yellow/green).
step 6 Cover the second section with foil, process, rinse and shampoo. Apply a cool toner through the platinum blonde, rinse, shampoo, condition.
finished LOOK The finished look shows how the placement of shadows along the hairline and the bright accent colour create a focal point to frame the eyes and enhance the cut.
Courtesy of Pivot Point International, Inc Š
Concept Hair / 47
Winter 2020 / Colour Correction
how to create
neon alien colour
Nicola Mcminn, Manic Panic UK Brand Ambassador and owner of the Curl Up and Dye salon in Dumfries, tells us how she created this incredible neon alien look on stage at Salon International.
STEP 4 I then sectioned the front two sections from just behind the ears and worked on these areas first. I used my Smoke Screen and Raven combo and saturated the roots, stretching down about an inch or so.
STEPS 1 & 2 For this creation, I wanted to aim for something dark and futuristic but also neon and bold. I started off by wetting the front of the wig, sectioning off and cutting the bangs in to the length I wanted. Next, I coloured the bangs as I knew I wanted to overdirect the hair forward. The first colour I picked was our fantastic neon green shade Electric Lizard mixed with a little Electric Banana, from the cream classic range. I painted this just on the underneath section of the fringe, so that when the hair moves it gives an intense POP!
STEP 3 To finish off the fringe I used Smoke Screen, which is a cool metallic-based grey/ violet shade that is in the professional gel range. I added a spot of Raven, which is our black in the classic colours, just to give a little depth.
finished LOOK For the cut and style I wanted a sleek, strong bold look and I wanted it as straight as possible. When envisioning the creation, I thought Area 51 meets Space Raider meets A BOSS – and I am in love with her!
@itscurlupanddye 48 / Concept Hair
While doing this, I pulled each section forward over towards the face and blending down, I then went through with my Lizard and Banana mix, still overdirecting and blending down on each section below the root stretch colour.
STEP 5 Once I had done this on both sides, I used my Smoke Screen and Raven shade, and saturated the ends, this time blending upwards into some of the neon shade. For the back section of hair, I parted it in the middle and repeated the process pulling forward. This was to avoid any hard lines throughout the hair.
Winter 2020 / Interview
working in a salon group
Ever wondered what it is like to work in a salon group? We spoke to three employees of Feathers Salon Group, which has five salons in north Essex and in 2019 celebrated its 30th anniversary. #feathers4hair
E
laine McGeachie has been an employee of Feathers Salon Group for 30 years and throughout that time has been a mentor for hairstylists and a driving force for the business. In 2019 she celebrated the 30th anniversary of the company along with other managers from Feathers in Marseille, France. Elaine said: “The trip to the south of France was one of many trips I have had with work over the years, but this trip was super special. I have had so many fabulous opportunities over the years – I have travelled as a platform artist, taught in our academy and been the manager of the Braintree salon for nearly three decades.”
K
I have had so many fabulous “opportunities over the years ”
im Watson has been with Feathers since she was 15 years old. She trained in the Feathers Academy and today is one of the trainers and assessors. She is also an educator for Eufora and Sensus and has travelled as far as the USA with her work. She has recently been promoted to manager at the Colchester branch. Kim said: “When I was a trainee, I was inspired by the people that taught me in the salon and the platform artists I saw at shows. It has been my ambition to teach and to travel, I feel I am living the dream.”
I
rma Majauskaite came to the UK in 2014 to work at Feathers having trained in Lithuania and following a meeting with Feathers’ founder Debbie Digby in the US. Irma said: “When I came to Feathers, everyone was so nice and my manager was so kind and encouraging. I was nervous about my hairdressing, I wasn't sure if my work was a good enough standard, but I have attended many courses and today I am so proud of the clientele I have built. I have had many great opportunities – my favourite was working with Gok Wan.”
For more information visit: www.feathers4hair.co.uk Concept Hair / 49
Winter 2020 / Business Skills
Jamie Brooks is the co-owner of the awardwinning Brooks & Brooks salon in the heart of London. With more than 25 years in the industry and a team of more than 20, Jamie gives us his advice for running a successful business.
Put yourself in the “ eyes of the client and ask why they would come to your business
”
Running your own salon Concept Hair: How would you describe being a salon owner in today’s industry? Jamie Brooks: Interesting. It’s very fast-paced and we’re in a changeable time. When we first opened in 2001, salons were more traditional, the team were employed by the owners – there were no self-employed stylists or renta-chair options. It was before social media so team members couldn’t create their own fame, they relied on the salon owner to offer them opportunities. Now it’s totally different and everyone can work on their own profile. They don’t have to rely on anyone and can leave a salon at the drop of a hat. CH: What challenges do business owners face? JB: There are too many salons offering the same concept, the same services and 50 / Concept Hair
the same poor level of service. Business rates and high rents are a huge problem. CH: What are the different ways you can build your business? JB: There are so many opportunities for young hairdressers and they should grab these with both hands. Join teams such as L’Oréal ID Artists, Wella Xposure, Schwarzkopf YAT and the Fellowship F.A.M.E. Team. It’s a great way to get your work out there and have access to things you wouldn’t experience day-to-day. Utilise social media but beware it is a double-edged sword. You are in the public eye and it can destroy your confidence as well as build you up. If you post something you are proud of and it doesn’t get the likes, you will start to doubt yourself. You have to live up to expectations and not everyone is encouraging.
CH: What advice would you give someone thinking about starting their own hair business? JB: Don’t overstretch yourself, don’t go into debt, don’t borrow loads of money with high loan charges as that puts you under extra pressure from day one. Manage expectations from yourself and other people. Take a realistic look at your business. Put yourself in the eyes of the client and ask why they would come to your business. Are you on the high street? Are you visible? Are you old fashioned or too trendy? You have to be self-critical. Keep projections realistic and keep an eye on outgoings and incomings. Have a good business plan – and a plan that isn’t a fantasy!
@brookshair
Winter 2020 / Business Skills
There are so many “ opportunities for young hairdressers and they should grab these with both hands
�
Find out more about Brooks & Brooks at www.brooksandbrooks.co.uk
Concept Hair / 51
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Winter 2020 / Business Skills
choose your
A job in hairdressing can be as varied and exciting as you make it. Here are some examples of hairdressers who have developed their careers in very different ways.
Brand Ambassador
Salon Owner
Competition Hairdresser
Joseph Ferraro
Ryan Harris
Steven Smart
J
oseph, who runs his eponymous salon group in Harrogate, is also brand ambassador for Authentic Beauty Concept, a holistic premium brand created by hairdressers. “As brand ambassador I am involved in providing quotes and tips for press releases, delivering education, developing new photographic collections, and generally helping to push the brand forward,” says Joseph. “[The role] stretches me creatively, it makes me focus on what's next rather than being too comfortable. It’s my job to ensure everyone else believes in the brand and its ethos through thinking of new creative concepts with hair.” To be an effective ambassador you have to believe in the brand 100%, says Joseph. “It also helps to be a good allrounder. You need the ability to handle change, good communication skills and a genuine passion for hairdressing.” @josephferrarohair 54 / Concept Hair
R
yan is the owner of Harris & Fox, a stunning, contemporary salon in Aberdeen. He was still in his 20s when he opened the salon in 2018, but with 10 years’ experience of hairdressing behind him he was confident the time was right. “When I started planning the salon, I wanted to create a friendly vibe and welcoming atmosphere for clients but also a space where the members of the team would feel happy and comfortable to work. “The biggest challenge was, and still is, the admin side of managing the salon and being organised with paperwork. I have to try to be motivated with this as it's never been my forte.” Ryan believes it’s important for a salon owner to be fair and considerate. “I always try to be the salon owner I would like to work with,” he says.
@harrisandfox
N
ow the owner of the Smart:Est 73 salon in Weston-SuperMare, Steven launched his career on the live competition circuit, originally winning the First Timers Blow-dry category at the 1999 British Championships. This was followed by numerous wins at British, European and world level over the following decade. “Accomplishment, excitement and creativity are all things I love about live competition,” he said. “The adrenaline feels fantastic and winning is addictive. I am extremely competitive so always driven to be the best!” Steven retired from live competitions in 2010 but he still encourages and supports any team members who are interested in competing. “In my opinion, competitions have been integral to my skills and abilities as a hairdresser, making me the stylist I am today,” says Steven.
@smartest73
Winter 2020 / Business Skills
own path
I always try to be the “salon owner I would like to work with”
The fundraisinG Showman
The Inventor
Social Media Manager
Tony Riz zo
Robert Masciave
Joseph I ’Anson
A
s well as being Managing Director of the hugely successful Sanrizz salon group, Tony Rizzo is founder of Alternative Hair, a charity raising money to help find a cure for leukaemia. The first Alternative Hair Show took place in 1983, four months after Tony and his wife, Maggie, tragically lost their son, Valentino, to leukaemia. “It was held at Camden Palace and there were around 2,500 people queuing round the block,” recalls Tony. “The venue could only take 1,000. We had to turn people away. That first show raised £7,500.” Today the Alternative Hair Show is a highlight of the hairdressing calendar, attracting artistic teams from across the world, who all share their talent and inspiring visions for free. Tony still helps to select the teams that present, deals with sponsors and selects the themes for each show. @tonyrizzo2
W
A
hile running his awardwinning salon, Metropolis, in Kingston, Robert has also invented and developed a brand of scissor called eBlade, which is designed to offer stability and precision while cutting, however a stylist holds their scissors. The original prototype was six years in development. Robert discovered how effective his invention was after he was in a serious motorbike accident, breaking both his wrists. Because of the design of the scissors, he was able to start cutting again.
longside his role as Art Director at Mark Leeson Salons, Joseph oversees all the social media for the brand.
“I started to think about how it could help others with injuries, posture problems or RSI. More and more hairdressers are holding scissors in multiple ways, yet there were no other scissors on the market that facilitated this.”
Posting regularly is also important. “I try to post at least twice a day,” he says. “Firstly, in the morning while people are commuting to work and then again in the evening to catch them on their commute home.”
Robert is still involved in the development of the brand, designing each new model using 3D software. @robertmasciave
“I provide content from the latest photoshoots as well as work done in the salon,” said Joseph. “I also use social media to promote the beauty offers we have running each month.” Making sure each post is eye-catching while staying true to the brand is the first rule of effective social media, according to Joseph.
Instagram is Joseph’s preferred platform. “I find we get most interactions on there and access a wider audience.” @josephianson Concept Hair / 55
Winter 2020 / The Interview
Climbing the ladder In many salons, there will be stylists with a range of experiences – from the salon’s owner to junior stylists and apprentices. We went to Let Lew Hair Design in Evesham to chat to Let Lew about progressing in the hair industry. We also spoke to two of his team – Cristina Dulgheriu, who has risen from apprentice to senior stylist, and current trainee Kayleigh Neale.
r e n w O Salon for passion in an apprentice – “I look I don't care about their age ” @letlewhairdesign 56 / Concept Hair
Winter 2020 / The Interview Concept Hair: How did you get into hairdressing? Let Lew: I was always passionate about hairdressing. It’s creative. CH: How did you progress to where you are now, owning two salons? LL: I came to the UK around 12 years ago and worked for another salon for around four years. I decided I wanted to own a salon. It’s amazing - you get control of how you want your salon to be and how you treat your clients.
Senior Stylist
CH: How do you encourage your team?
CH: Why did you choose hairdressing?
LL: As a salon owner it’s very important to push your team - to encourage them to do more outside their comfort zone. I let them do things they aren’t quite comfortable with. Every time you let them do something new, they learn something.
Cristina Dulgheriu: I did a graphic design course and I wasn’t 100% happy with it. I did a short hairdressing course back in Romania and I absolutely loved it.
CH: How did you find your apprentices? LL: I advertised on social media and got in contact with a local college for recommendations. I look for passion - I don’t care about their age. I am looking for someone to grow with, not just to make the tea and sweep the floor. CH: Why should salons take on apprentices? LL: You are getting a new individual who is growing with you. At the end of the apprenticeship, they already know how your salon runs, they speak your salon’s language and know how the system works. They become an asset for your salon. CH: What’s the best advice you were ever given?
Kayleigh Neale: I came here for work experience and Let inspired me to do an apprenticeship. I started at another salon but the opportunity came up here and I don’t want to be anywhere else! CH: What are the best tips Let has passed on? CD: Be confident, be flexible with the situation - every client is an individual and you approach them like that. Be passionate about hair, get involved in competitions and be brave. KN: As I’m still training, if he sees me doing something he advises me on how to do it better. He says, ‘if
Trainee you have a bad day, don’t let it throw you back - keep going and be strong.’ CH: What’s your day-to-day role now? CD: Working to build your clients there are some days when you aren’t as busy and you might think you aren’t good enough, but you have to be open to learning more and doing more courses. KN: I keep the salon clean, welcome customers and I’m slowly building up my clients. I’m learning to do gents’ hair but I can do colouring and cutting. CH: What would you like to achieve in your career? CD: I would love to have my own salon. I want to grow in skill and be good at what I do. KN: In the very far future I’d like to become self-employed - not necessarily owning a salon, but having a big client base and doing people’s hair at weddings and events.
www.letlew.com
LL: Speak less, but watch more. Watch what people do and absorb their posture, how they handle things, how they approach clients. CH: What’s your favourite thing about the industry? LL: It’s so diverse - every minute, every week, every month it changes. Technology gets better, colour gets better, skills get better. It’s all about embracing individuality, which I really love. Concept Hair / 57
Winter 2020 / The Interview
the interview
@shaunawalsh_csc
Wella XPOSURE 2019 winner
Shauna Walsh
Shauna Walsh from Crow Street Collective won gold in the Academy category at Wella XPOSURE last summer. Concept Hair caught up with Shauna at the Wella TrendVision Award UK & Ireland Final, where she worked backstage shadowing Robert Eaton, to find out a bit more about her.
Concept Hair: Hi Shauna, congratulations on winning the Wella XPOSURE competition! Tell us what it was like taking part. Shauna Walsh: First of all we had to find a model and submit a photographic entry. I got put through to the regional heats in Edinburgh, then through to the final in London.
CH: What inspired you to enter the Wella XPOSURE competition?
CH: What does the future hold for you?
SW: The people I work with inspire me every day and they gave me the push to go forward with the competition. It’s good to see different sides to the industry.
SW: I’d love to do the Wella TrendVision Award some day. It’s so amazing and you get to see so many hairdressers at the top of their game.
CH: Who is your inspiration in the hair world? SW: It’s my colleagues – the people I’m looking at every day. They are so great to work with. There’s also Sophia Hilton, who was the inspiration for my model.
CH: What’s it been like following Robert Eaton today? SW: Amazing – I’ve been absolutely blown away. He’s been so nice and made me feel so welcome – his whole team did. I’ve never been to the TrendVision Award Final before so it’s been amazing.
CH: Did you change models throughout the competition? SW: I kept my model all the way through. There was the option to change your model and you could change your hairstyle as well, but I chose not to. I was quite happy with my model, the way she was, and it seemed to work. CH: Where are you studying at the moment? SW: I’m in the academy at Crow Street Collective. I’m into my second year now and am a colour technician. 58 / Concept Hair
Online entries for XPOSURE 2020 close on 18th February. Check out the new competition categories and the new format of the regional heats, where you can invite your friends and family to come and watch you on stage during the evening show. For more information go to www.wella.com/xposure
concepthairmag.co.uk/barbering
60 / Concept Hair
Sid Sottung: I was 14 and my mom said it was about time I went out and got a job, so I started work at a local barbershop and fell in love with barbering. Eventually my mom said it wasn’t a safe environment for me, so pulled me out of there and I started training in ladies hairdressing.
Concept Hair: Hi Sid! Can you tell us how you first got into barbering?
SID SOTTUNG RUNS TWO AWARDWINNING BARBERING ACADEMIES IN NOTTINGHAM, HAVING PREVIOUSLY TRAVELLED THE WORLD AS BOTH A STYLIST AND EDUCATOR. SID TOOK TIME OUT OF HIS BUSY SCHEDULE TO TALK TO CONCEPT HAIR ABOUT BARBERING, TEACHING AND SWEEPING THE FLOOR.
Sid Sottung
the interview
“THE THING THAT MAKES ME PROUDEST OF ALL IS WHEN I SEE SOMEONE I’VE TRAINED DO THEIR FIRST HAIRCUT”
SS: We’ve won Training Academy of the Year at the Barber Awards, I’ve opened two academies in my name, I have my own product line, but the thing that makes me proudest of all is when I see someone I’ve trained do their first haircut. I also get that feeling when I see my staff go up on stage at a hairdressing show and when I see someone I’ve trained go on to open their own barbershop. It’s an amazing feeling.
CH: What’s the proudest moment of your career?
Winter 2020 / The Interview
Ss: Practice before perfection! Young people have to learn to have experience. I’ve been doing this for 30 years and I’m still learning. I can share my experience, strength and hope but you have to go out there and experience the world for yourself. If you’re making the tea, or if you're sweeping the floor – do it to the best of your ability, do it perfectly. It will help you when you’re cutting hair because it gives you that work ethic.
CH: What piece of advice would you give to someone just starting out in a barbershop?
Ss: Teaching has always been my passion, even when I was at school. It’s not that I was trying to tell the teachers how to do their jobs, it’s just that I wanted them to teach with more passion. I’ve always really wanted to help people.
CH: Why did you make the move from working in the salon to becoming an educator?
SS: Very much so!
CH: Are you still in love with barbering?
Ss: I worked for Vidal Sassoon in New York for 17 years and then became an educator, teaching at academies in Los Angeles, New York and then in London – doing both men’s and women’s hair.
CH: What happened next?
@sidsottungacademy
“YOU HAVE THE ABILITY TO CHANGE SOMEONE’S LIFE, TO MAKE THEM FEEL GOOD ABOUT THEMSELVES, WITH A PAIR OF CLIPPERS AND SCISSORS”
SS: In December we opened two new barbershops in Leicester and what we’re doing is launching a franchise model, so people will be able to purchase a Sid Sottung barbershop and get access to all of the training and support they need. In the academy, we’re working a lot with Captain Fawcett on beard products, we’re doing a lot with the Great British Barber Bash, so the education side of things is growing as well as the salons.
CH: What does the future hold?
SS: Young people need to realise that if they get a few likes on Instagram it doesn’t actually mean anything. Barbering is about making a customer look and feel great. It’s about creating a relaxing environment in which men and women can come in and feel comfortable. Barbering is a craft, it’s an art, but it’s also a job and you have the ability to change someone’s life, to make them feel good about themselves, with a pair of clippers and scissors.
CH: What are the challenges facing young people getting into barbering?
Winter 2020 / The Interview
Concept Hair / 61
Winter 2020 / How To
the wolf Create this strong beard look with Andis
01
Begin cutting with the blade open. Cut quick c-stroke motions starting just below the cheekbone, working into the sideburn to create your primary guide.
03
Use the #3 attachment, blade open. Cut with a c-stroke motion to blend slightly higher up the cheek. Then repeat with the blade closed.
62 / Concept Hair
02
With the #4 attachment, blade open, start at the bottom of the beard and work up the cheek to remove bulk. Next, close the blade and repeat, moving slightly higher on the jawline to begin creating the fade up the cheek.
04
Repeat the process with the #2 attachment, first with the blade open and then closed, moving higher up the cheek.
Winter 2020 / How To
05
06
Continue with the same process using the #1 attachment, blade open. You should be moving about half an inch higher on the cheek with every pass.
Finally, use the #0 attachment, blade closed. Use a tighter, shorter c-stroke to blend into your primary guide at the top of the cheek and sideburn.
For more information visit:
finished look
andis.com
Create this look with the Andis Master Cordless clipper - the cordless version of the iconic Andis barbering tool. The Master Cordless delivers precision cutting performance and rotary motor power that won’t drag or stall thanks to its constant speed technology. Plus, it weighs 35% less than the corded original!
The Master Cordless
Concept Hair / 63
Winter 2020 / Products
bettertons important Scissor care
I
T’S VERY IMPORTANT TO LOOK AFTER YOUR SCISSORS. DAILY CLEANING AND OILING OF YOUR SCISSORS WILL EXTEND THE LIFE OF YOUR SHEARS, AND IMPROVE THEIR PERFORMANCE.
“PROPERLY STORING YOUR SCISSORS WILL PREVENT NICKS IN THE BLADES AND ACCIDENTAL DAMAGE”
cleaning Wipe your scissors clean after every cut. Using a soft cloth, ensure loose hair is removed from around the tension screw, and the blades are wiped down. This will reduce the build-up of products that may be on your clients’ hair. Lubrication
Tension Adjustment Having the correct screw tension is very important. To test for the correct tension, hold your shears by one handle with the points upward. Lift the other handle until your blades open to about a 90° angle and let the blade fall closed. The blade should fall closed about two thirds of the way. If it falls completely closed the tension is too loose, and your scissors may fold the hair when cutting. If it's too tight, the blades will grind together which will damage the blade edge. Adjust the screw in small amounts until correct.
Your scissor screw should be oiled regularly. We suggest a small dab of oil at the end of each day. Open your scissor to a 90° angle and put a drop of scissor oil at the joint, where the blades meet. Work the oil into the joint by opening and closing the blades. This will release any hair, dust, dirt or chemicals that found their way to the joint, and will leave a protective coating. Storage Properly storing your scissors will prevent nicks in the blades and accidental damage. The best way to store your scissors is to keep them in the case provided. 64 / Concept Hair
gebetterton.co.uk
beard care looking after beards and moustaches
S
ESSION STYLIST AND SALON OWNER JOE MILLS GIVES US HIS TOP TIPS FOR LOOKING AFTER BEARDS AND MOUSTACHES.
trending The trend for facial hair has been around for quite a while and despite people declaring it’s over, beards and moustaches are as popular as ever. However, the shape and type of facial hair has changed. We have seen a shift towards guys being clean shaven but there is still a lot of beard action as well. Beards have gotten shorter and smarter, almost a long stubble. Having said that we still have clients with very established beards. I think when you have put that much effort into growing a beard it’s hard to cut it off! care service It’s a very profitable part of the business and all barbershops should be offering a beard care service. We see guys coming in every 10 days for a shave, or trims in-between regular appointments for more established beards. You can trim your beard at home but is a lot harder to get it from all angles and remove the weight.
“BEARDS AND MOUSTACHES ARE AS POPULAR AS EVER”
There are particular skills/ techniques to know including scissor and clipper-over-comb, as these are your main cutting techniques. You also need to know how to comb through and understand the shaping process. It’s a very visual thing and you need to make the mirror your BFF. tools for the job You need a well-adjusted set of clippers, a large tooth comb and a decent cutting comb so you can work with the beard or ‘tache hair. Obviously scissors for trimming and shaping as this is sometimes the easier route than clippers and finally a foil clipper if you don’t want to line-out using a razor. I also would recommend a sterilising spray so you know all your kit is always clean.
www.joeandco.net
T0P TIPS Joe Mills’ top three tips for boosting your business with beards: 1. If you have clients with beards you have an opportunity to upsell a beard trim or reshape, it’s a no brainer. 2. Get the right products for facial hair and make sure you understand them and know how to recommend them to your clients. 3. Make sure you are promoting what you are doing on the menu and on your website and social media. The more information you have out there, the easier it is for clients to engage.
the Keyhole
Through
Winter 2020 / Salons
immerse yourself “inFully L’Oréal’s brand culture and education philosophies ”
The L’Oréal academies are flagship education centres based throughout the UK and Ireland. The London academy will host the final of the first-ever Concept Hair Apprentice of the Year competition in March.
L’ORÉAL ACADEMIES @lorealeducationuki 66 / Concept Hair
L
’Oréal’s first-class education programmes cater for all levels and abilities, with the academies offering courses and events that are both informative and inspirational.
Comprising of hands-on training salons, group breakout areas for sharing ideas plus an area for refreshments and retail, you will be fully immersed in L’Oréal’s brand culture and education philosophies. L’Oréal Professionnel is renowned for delivering first-class education by an exceptional team of education consultants, with iconic courses such as Colour Keys 1 and Colour Keys 2 giving you all of the fundamental skills to colour both natural and coloured
hair with top tips on using social media to showcase your work to potential employers or clients. Continue your skill development with hands-on courses for highlighting and balayage, or discover the latest innovations from L’Oréal Professionnel. If cutting is where you want to develop, come along to one of L’Oréal’s foundation cutting courses, or see a guest artist in action to gain some new ideas. Recently launched is the first L’Oréal online learning platform – L’Oréal Access. With an array of complimentary eLearnings, tutorial videos and the opportunity to book your place on all of the mentioned courses plus many more, your education really is at your fingertips.
Learn more or book your place at one of L’Oréal’s academies at www.uk.lorealaccess.com Concept Hair / 67
Winter 2020 / Exercises
exercises VTCT has partnered with Pivot Point to provide you with a new online learning platform called LAB®. LAB helps you develop your skills and knowledge through an easy-to-use digital interface. It is designed to help you stretch and deepen your understanding through interactive quizzes, videos and more. Ask your training provider if they’re using LAB, and get started today! Vocational Training Charitable Trust is a specialist awarding organisation offering vocational and technical qualifications in a range of service sectors. These exercises have been created to test your technical knowledge on cutting, colouring and styling. The exercises have been created in conjunction with Pivot Point®.
Images courtesy of Pivot Point International
If you would like to know more about how one of VTCT’s courses could help further your career, check out the website: www.vtct.org.uk
68 / Concept Hair
Winter 2020 / Exercises
WIGS AND EXTENSIONS Answer the following true or false questions.
Q1
The following are types of wig foundations: monofilament, wefted and lace.
The best advice for a client with hair additions who confirms they are Q2 suffering from hair loss would be to visit their GP.
Clients with bonded wefts should be recommended to have them Q3 professionally removed and checked after three to four weeks.
Sewn-in wefts last approximately four to 12 weeks and some hair loss can Q4 be expected, but this should only be the natural hair loss which has been held in by the braid.
A client with bonded wefts should be encouraged to use oils and Q5 moisturising products to maintain the hair’s condition, while wearing the wefts.
ANSWER
TRUE
FALSE
ANSWER
TRUE
FALSE
ANSWER
TRUE
FALSE
ANSWER
TRUE
FALSE
ANSWER
TRUE
FALSE
Image courtesy of Pivot Point International
Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free Concept Hair / 69
Winter 2020 / Exercises
COLOUR CORRECTION Choose the correct answer to the following multiple-choice questions.
Q1
Which one of the following describes the effect of a colour reducer?
Ans.
Q4
Which one of the following colours will cancel unwanted red tones in the hair?
a
Changes melanin to oxy-melanin
a
Blue
b
Oxidises the artificial colour molecules
b
Green
c
Changes small coloured molecules into colourless molecules
c
Orange
d
Breaks down large colour molecules into small molecules
d
Yellow
Q2
The application method for a full head lightener is: Apply to‌
Ans.
Which one of the following best Q5 describes when a pre-lightening service would be required?
a
Mid-lengths and ends, then the roots
a
When a light, cool tone is required
b
The roots, then straight through to the mid-lengths and ends
b
When correcting bleeding, following a woven highlight service
c
c
Mid-lengths and ends, and after half the level of lift is achieved, apply to the roots
When colouring hair that is resistant to permanent colour
d
When the hair is too dark to achieve the target shade
d
The roots and after half the development time, apply to the mid-lengths and ends
Ans.
Ans.
Image courtesy of Pivot Point International
Which one of the following describes Q3 when a pre-pigmenting (pre-colouring) service would be required? a
When colouring the hair darker than the natural base shade
b
When colouring lightened hair darker
c
When the hair is too dark to achieve the target shade
d
When the hair is resistant to colour
Ans.
Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free 70 / Concept Hair
Winter 2020 / Exercises
CUTTING FACIAL HAIR Complete the following multiple choice questions by selecting one answer. Which one of the following is the most Q1 important reason for using a barber chair when cutting facial?
Ans.
Which one of the following is not Q4 a contraindication to a beard cutting service?
a
To prevent injury to the client and barber
a
Impetigo
b
To ensure barber comfort
b
Barber’s rash
c
To present a professional image and improve posture
c
Pityriasis capitis
d
To ensure client comfort
d
Pediculosis capitis
Which one of the following tools is Q2 most suitable for removing stray hairs outside the beard line? a
Razor with a guard
b
Clippers
c
d
Ans.
Which one of the following is the most Q5 suitable beard for a client with a long face? a
A long slim beard design
b
A short trimmed beard
c
A full long beard design
d
A goatee
Ans.
Ans.
Open razor
Scissors
Which one of the following is the most Q3 suitable product to hydrate and nourish Ans. the facial hair? a
Hair tonic
b
Beard oil
c
Styling cream
d
Moustache wax
Image courtesy of Pivot Point International
Go to concepthairmag.co.uk to download exercise answers for free Concept Hair / 71
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Winter 2020 / Learner of the Month
E MON
Zac Gabrel Zoology August winner Zac won the August award – and a £300 bundle from Akito Scissors – after being nominated for his “enthusiasm and passion for hairdressing”. Asked what he loves most about his job, Zac said: “I enjoy the rewarding feeling of making my clients feel good about themselves and helping to grow their confidence.”
Concept Hair Learner of the Month celebrates hairdressing and barbering students and apprentices who have gone above and beyond. Employers and lecturers can nominate a learner by emailing tom.tracey@sng-publishing.co.uk or via direct message on social media. Each month's shortlisted nominees will be announced on social media before a winner is chosen by our judge, Let Lew.
Melody House L ily Marriage Lauren P hillips Hunter & Walsh september winner
Finishing Touches october winner
JamesB Hair november winner
Melody was nominated for the September award after helping her salon gain Plastic Free Champion status. She won an Allure brush from sponsors DAFNI, and judge Let Lew said he could see plenty of growth in her work. Melody said she loves her colleagues and is inspired by their work.
Lily won the October award – and a bundle worth £100 from R+Co – despite having no idea her boss Lisa had nominated her for it! Lily is running a full column in the salon, entering competitions and looking for new courses to gain more experience.
Lauren received a ghd platinum+ styler for winning the November award. She’s only been in the industry a year but has clients waiting five weeks for a colour appointment with her! Lauren has ambitions to work at Salon International and become a finalist at the British Hairdressing Awards. Concept Hair / 73