SOFFA 14 / TRADITION, English edition by SOFFA

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SOFFA: JOY FROM THE HEART OF EUROPE Discover the best and most beautiful from the Czech Republic and Central Europe: exquisite design, inspirational stories, unknown interiors and amazing, hidden locations well worth visiting.

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ISSUE THEME: TRADITIONS Issue 14 is dedicated to TRADITIONS and CUSTOMS: Journey with us to uncover the meaning behind various traditions, customs and the cultural heritage that has been passed from one generation to another!

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CONTENTS - VOLUME | 14

SWEDEN 08

EDITORIAL

10 01 | CULTURES & CUSTOMS 19 The Beauty of Traditions

02 | INTERIORS & PEOPLE The Apartment of Dr. Vogel

The Villa Known as Rusalka

03 | FASHION Modernism and Tradition

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05 | EDITORS’ CHOICE Traditional Icons versus Trends

06 | SPRING FOOD Superheroes Six

04 | TRAVEL Ostrava

Spring Lettuce from Polabí

07 | SOFFA & IKEA What Shall It Be Called?

134

107

08 | CREATIVE PEOPLE The Folk Costumes

10 | MEN’S GROOMING 140 11 | TECHNOLOGY Men's Club Cubrico - He Ain't No Square

122

09 | CZECH BRANDS The Winding Path to Success

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144

12 | TRADITIONS The Source of Our Traditions

159

13 | DIY PROJECT Wardrobe as a Home Gallery 7

ANC H O R PO I N T S text: Adéla Kudrnová | styling: SOFFA | photo: Adéla Havelková

One of the main reasons why we love traditions, be they religious holidays or the unique customs of our family, is that they help provide a much needed order to our lives. After all, little is as certain today as the fact that Easter follows Christmas, and so on. Each culture and family has its own anchor points of tradition, and it is thanks to them that we can move forward in our lives, always aware of their profound importance. This issue of SOFFA proves how valuable they are to us.

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In addition to many fascinating stories that explore various Czech and world traditions, this issue presents three new developments in the life of SOFFA, ones we hope will help us become an even better magazine. The first and biggest change is one you probably felt the moment you touched this issue, the beautiful new paper supplied to us by the firm Fedrigoni. Printing on paper is an age-old tradition and SOFFA is wonderful proof of its renaissance. To make sure you are well supplied by paper, we have prepared a stationary set designed by SOFFA, found on the back flyleaf. The writing of old-fashioned letters is a thoughtful tradition, so when you have finished reading this issue, sit down at your favourite desk, take a pen and our paper, and write a letter to someone near and dear. The excitement they will feel when opening the sealed envelope is irreplaceable! You have probably become used to the layout of the various themes in our magazine, so to give you a little jolt, we have added a new section on technology. We think this new element will be appreciated not only be men. We hope you will enjoy this issue on traditions presented somewhat nontraditionally in true SOFFA style, and that you will find in it some food for thought as well as inspiration. Your SOFFA team

CULTURES & CUSTOMS Traditions from around the world

THE WISDOM AND BEAUTY OF TRADITIONS text: Helena Stiessová | illustrations: Lucie Šatková / Eyeej!

WHILE CZECHS EXPECT TO BE OFFERED SLIPPERS WHEN VISITING SOMEONE’S HOME, THEY ARE LESS LIKELY TO EXPECT AN OFFER OF A SHOWER, WHICH IS WHAT USUALLY HAPPENS IN BRAZIL. THEY MAY ALSO NOT KNOW THAT IT IS IMPOLITE TO VISIT A JAPANESE HOME EMPTY-HANDED. FOLLOWING THE CUSTOMS OF THE LAND YOU ARE VISITING HAS ALWAYS BEEN A MARK OF A WELL-MANNERED TOURIST. EVERY CORNER OF THE WORLD HAS ITS ESTABLISHED CUSTOMS, AND THESE WOULD OFTEN REMAIN UNWRITTEN WERE IT NOT FOR TRAVEL GUIDES THAT HELP US AVOID MANY A CULTURAL FAUX-PAS. Most decent travel guides devote at least a few pages to the do’s and don’ts of behaving in a foreign country. It often makes for amusing reading, and journalists and bloggers even compile lists of the greatest curiosities, so we can shake our heads at the idea that the British take their hats off in front of a magpie, or that the Americans throw their shoes on trees, while elsewhere old shoes are tossed directly at the bride. Alongside humorous customs are countless regional traditions that make life more interesting and help the rest of us open our minds, whether in relation to everyday etiquette or to more important life events. The world is colourful and the inspiration it provides is perhaps one of the best aspects of discovering different cultures. SOFFA loves inspirational journeys, and so we have decided to look for traditions that are so wonderful they could be set in stone. Can you think of others? ■

SERBIA

LET IT GROW The nature lover Audrey Hepburn used to say that to establish a garden means to have faith in the future. And the same can be said about planting trees. The custom of planting a tree to mark the birth of a child or a marriage connects many cultures across the world. It is deeply rooted in the Jewish tradition and in places as distant from each other as Serbia and Jamaica. In fact, many parts of the world have a proverb that states that each person should plant a tree during his or her lifetime. There is something exhilarating, even cosmic, about the idea of contributing to future generations through the life of a tree. Not everyone has to build a house or write a book, but we all have the ability to dig a little hole for a sapling. So find yourself a good spot and plant a tree or a bush. If you are not sure how to go about it, you can make a contribution towards â&#x20AC;&#x2122;yourâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; tree at sazimestromy.cz.

BULGARIA

THE MAGIC OF BABA MARTA The first day of March sees all of Bulgaria in radiant displays of red and white tassels to celebrate the coming of spring. Bulgarians imagine the month of March as a mythical old woman known as Baba Marta, and her name marks the tradition of gifting red and white tassels shaped as little dolls, known as martenitsas. Red and white symbolise milk and blood, and by extension purity and life. People wear martenitsas as adornments until they see clear signs of spring: the first stork, a swallow or a tree in bloom. Once spring has announced its arrival it is time to take the martenitsas off and maybe hang them on a flowering tree in the hope that this will bring health and good luck to the wearer. Bulgarians as well as other nations like to adorn living trees, an act that is supposed to grant deeply held wishes. Whole groves and alleys are transformed into natural sanctuaries full of colourful objects fluttering in the wind, a magical display we all should experience on an ordinary day.

IRAN

A PERSIAN LESSON IN RESPECT All cultures teach their children how to be courteous, but some have elevated courtesy to a real art. While Europeans can sometimes be brutally honest with one another, in Iran they cherish an old tradition of respect called taarof, a form of etiquette that may appear like a relentless verbal duel to the uninitiated. You can see it in restaurants where people argue incessantly over who will pick up the tab, or when a taxi driver refuses to accept payment from a customer, and a dinner guest will not take the food that has been offered, despite the hunger signals coming from their belly. There are strict rules to follow in taarof: the person offering must insist and the person receiving must in turn vehemently refuse, at least three times, before accepting. Taarof is an expression of a culture that places respect towards others above all, and poetic Persian describes it in many beautiful forms. Many of us could take a page from the book of this old Iranian custom and show more respect to one another.

PHILIPPINES TO POINT OR PUCKER? Gestures with fingers can send a very different signal depending on where in the world you find yourself. And most of us have been taught by our mums that pointing at things is impolite, a rule that probably holds the world over. But what to do when you simply must point at something? The name that many languages have given to the finger that sits between the thumb and the middle finger is a testimony to the fact that in most countries people have not found a more polite way to ’point’. But in the Philippines they have come up with a very endearing solution. Instead of using their pointer finger, they pucker their lips and ’point’ with them in the desired direction. It is difficult to imagine what would happen to the social climate of Europe if instead of pointing with their fingers people used mass puckering of lips. The idea is fantastic, seeing as the puckering of lips has a different connotation in Europe. There would be no end to the fun we could have!

RUSSIA

FAREWELL â&#x20AC;&#x201C; TILL WE MEET AGAIN! The Russians are well known for being superstitious. Their respect for all manner of supernatural phenomena shows up in all aspects of everyday life, and sometimes it makes it a bit complicated, like when you are not allowed to place your keys on the table. But the Russian custom that requires the whole family to sit quietly for a moment before someone embarks on a long journey, perhaps even on the packed suitcase, is a sign of true ancient wisdom. It has its roots in the distant past, when people believed that a hurried departure would upset the spirits of the house. Think of how horrible you have felt when standing at the airport, realising all you had forgotten in the madness of a rushed departure. From here onward this wise Russian tradition can keep that horrible feeling at bay. And more importantly, what better way to part than to share a quiet moment of togetherness with your loved ones. Bon voyage and many happy returns!

SWEDEN

STOP EVERYTHING, ITâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S COFFEE TIME! One of the most popular Swedish words must surely be the short and punchy fika (pronounced feeka). Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hard to resist. Fika means a coffee or tea break complemented with a sweet treat. Yes, we all like our coffee, but the Swedes consider fika to be an almost sacred affair. At a given hour during the workday all employees drop what they are doing and congregate around their coffee and cinnamon buns. Sometimes even twice a day, making psychologists rejoice, as the daily break is energising and helps to bring people together. In Sweden you can have a fika anywhere - at the weekend while relaxing in the garden, after mass, or during your shopping spree in the city at one of the countless cafes that dot the Swedish landscape. Even the most remote part of this great land has a chair and a steaming cup of coffee waiting for you, because there is nothing better than to sit down for a while and take a fika from all that hurry.

“eyeej!“ [ayay] is what they say in California when they see a beauty.

“Eyeej,” the tiger replied, as if in pain, its head moving out still farther to see a beauty, while. Farther, while Tracy’s own eyes dived into the young lady’s. The hum and the diving happened at the same time. The girl heard the hum, received the dive, almost stopped, almost smiled, pushed herself tighter against the yellow knit dress, and then danced on, the tiger moaning softly. “Is that what they say in California?” Nimmo said. “Eyeej,” Tracy said. “Say it again,” Peberdy said. Tracy, watching the girl go, watching the tiger lope after her, said it again. “Hear that, Ringert?” Peberdy said. “That’s what they say in California when they see a beauty.” William Saroyan - Tracy‘s tiger

Lucie Šatková WWW.EYEEJ.COM

INTERIORS & PEOPLE Villa Rusalka, The Apartment of Dr. Vogel

THE APARTMENT OF DR. VOGEL PROJECT text: Edith Jeřábková | concept and styling: Klára Vystrčilová model: Zuzana Sceranková | photo: Lucia Sceranková

PLZEŇ HAS BEEN LUCKY TO RETAIN SEVERAL OLD APARTMENTS DESIGNED BY THE RENOWNED ARCHITECT ADOLF LOOS, AND THESE HAVE RECENTLY RECEIVED ATTENTION FROM SCHOLARS AND RESTORERS. LOOS HAD WORKED ON A LARGE PORTFOLIO OF ARCHITECTURAL PROJECTS IN PLZEŇ, BUT MANY OF THESE WERE DESTROYED OVER TIME. THE FEW THAT HAVE ESCAPED DESTRUCTION INCLUDE THE APARTMENTS DESIGNED FOR DR. JOSEF VOGEL, VILÉM AND GETRUDE KRAUS, AND ING. OSKAR AND JANA SEMLER, AND THE HOUSE DESIGNED FOR JAN BRUMMEL. THESE PLACES HAVE BECOME A FOCUS OF INTEREST FOR THE YOUNG ARTIST KLÁRA VYSTRČILOVÁ. The house of Jan Brummel, which is the only of the remaining Loos projects that has not been renovated and made accessible to the public, became a temporary setting for Klára Vystrčilová’s work. She installed her work, as well as the work of her partner Igor Hosnedl, and then asked another artist, Lucie Sceranková, to photograph the resulting scenes. This almost symbolic occupation of the flat by an artistic couple, a model, a photographer and their art was envisaged as an homage to the work of Adolf Loos and carried out with the certainty of a contemporary artist’s resolve. The group project, which will be exhibited in autumn at ►

the Hunt Kastner Gallery in Prague, wants to highlight how the need to preserve modern architecture and art results in its institutionalisation in museums and galleries, and thus renders it almost inaccessible for a private experience. In this way, Klára Vystrčilová, for whom art, fashion, design, craft and lifestyle represent adventures into various aspects of social life and its history, attempted to reach something that is untouchable. In so doing, she wanted to highlight the importance of understanding art on an emotional level. The artist’s creative process is influenced by Loos’ famous thesis titled Ornament and Crime. This iconic work relates in a particular way to the dilemma facing contemporary art, which in the context of a former Eastern Bloc country went through a post-conceptual developmental phase that de-emphasised ornamental elements. Today’s artists are moving away from the denial of the beauty of the form, and see ornamentation as a driving, and sometimes even revolutionary, force. After the crash of the virtual banking sector economists have come to trust tangible, material assets more than virtual ones, and so have artists begun to trust and explore the beautiful potential of the material form. Klára Vystrčilová works within this milieu under the influence of her enchantment by Loos’ objects, materials, forms and spaces, and her own analytical ingenuity. It is no accident that Klára Vystrčilová fills the apartments designed by her idol not only with the female figure, but also the traditionally female work of embroidery. She does so with a certain authority and confidence in her artistic vision, but also with her accepted feminity. ►

RIGHT: Photography by Lucia Scerankovรก for the project The Apartment of Doctor Vogel

LEFT: Handmade embroidery from the project The Apartment of Doctor Vogel, 19 x 15 cm; Photography by Lucia Scerankovรก for the project The Apartment of Doctor Vogel

RIGHT: Handmade embroidery from the project The Apartment of Doctor Vogel, 35 ร 24 cm

LEFT: Photography by Lucia Scerankovรก for the project The Apartment of Doctor Vogel

RIGHT: Klรกra Vystrฤ ilovรก

LEFT: Handmade embroidery from the project The Apartment of Doctor Vogel, 19 x 15 cm; Photography by Lucia Scerankovรก for the project The Apartment of Doctor Vogel

Loos’ work features in the artist’s creative process not only as a place for displaying and documenting her work; it is her creative partner from the very beginning, as when she photographs the interiors to inspire future embroidery work. The surroundings in these photographs are not overly exposed. In this way Klára Vystrčilová goes back to experiencing and interpreting the work of modernity on a very individual level, an approach that helps to connect different time horizons in a single moment. For more information go to www.klaravystrcilova.com ■

SOFFA & NORDIC DAY STYLING WORKSHOP OUR SOFFA & FRIENDS STYLING WORKSHOP IN PARTNERSHIP WITH NORDIC DAY WAS THE PERFECT OPPORTUNITY TO LET OUR GUESTSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; IMAGINATION RUN WILD WHILE EXPERIMENTING WITH STYLING AND PHOTOGRAPHY. www.nordicday.cz

THE ONLINE RETAILER NORDIC DAY OFFERS ORIGINAL HOME FURNISHINGS AND ACCESSORIES IN THE CLEAN NORDIC STYLE WE LOVE, AND FOR THIS REASON WE DECIDED TO PARTNER WITH THEM IN ORGANISING A FOOD AND INTERIOR STYLING WORKSHOP. PARTICIPANTS LEARNT THE BASICS OF STYLING AND CREATED A RANGE OF FABULOUS STILL LIFE ARRANGEMENTS AND PHOTOGRAPHS, WHICH YOU CAN SEE ON OUR BLOG AT WWW.SOFFAMAG.COM. YOU WILL SEE THAT THE NORDIC STYLE IS ANYTHING BUT BORING! Shop for plates, vases, bowls, textiles and other products at www.nordicday.cz

THE VIL L A K N OW N A S RU S A L K A partner for the article: The Dvořák Prague Festival | text: Helena Novotná styling: SOFFA | photo: Lina Németh

PEOPLE USUALLY TRAVEL TO VYSOKÁ U PŘÍBRAMĚ TO SEE THE LOCAL MUSEUM DEDICATED TO THE FAMOUS CZECH COMPOSER ANTONÍN DVOŘÁK. REAL MUSIC CONNOISSEURS, HOWEVER, KNOW THAT ONE CANNOT LEAVE VYSOKÁ WITHOUT VISITING ANOTHER PLACE CONNECTED TO THE MUSICAL GENIUS – VILLA RUSALKA. IN THE COMPANY OF THE COMPOSER‘S GRANDSON AND GREAT-GRANDDAUGHTER, SOFFA VISITED VILLA RUSALKA WHERE DVOŘÁK AND HIS FAMILY SPENT THEIR SUMMERS. THEY SHOWED US A PLACE THAT CAPTIVATED ANTONÍN DVOŘÁK AND HELPED HIM CREATE SEVERAL OF HIS FAMOUS WORKS. YOU CAN SAVOUR THESE, AS WELL AS MANY OTHER OF HIS MUSICAL TREASURES, AT THE ANNUAL DVOŘÁK PRAGUE INTERNATIONAL MUSIC FESTIVAL.

Although Villa Rusalka is not officially open to the public, one can obtain permission for a visit from the composer’s descendants, Mrs. Hana Kakešová and Mr. Antonín Dvořák. Several volumes of visitor books with messages and accolades from all around the world affirm that it would be a great shame if the villa were closed to the public. The tales from the composer’s grandson and great-granddaughter transformed us effortlessly to the year 1884, when Antonín Dvořák ► RIGHT: Mr. Antonín’s resemblance to his grandfather is unquestionable. The name Antonín has over time become a family tradition, passed from one generation to the next to help preserve the memory of the phenomenal composer.

bought an old granary and a sheep pen in Vysoká u Příbramě. He found a soft spot for Vysoká after becoming acquainted with it on his visits to the Kounic family. Count Václav Kounic, Dvořák’s brother-in-law, bought the estate at Vysoká and built here a stately residence in the Neo-Renaissance style as a wedding gift for his wife Josefína. At first Antonín Dvořák stayed with his family in a building known as Dvorek, which stood on the edge of the estate near a woodland path leading to the lake that is today known as Rusalka’s lake. Later Dvořák purchased from Count Kounic an outbuilding that was used to store grain and had it reconstructed into a two-storey home in which he and his family lived during the summers. He visited Vysoká for almost 20 years until his death in 1904. The villa stands in a garden surrounded by a massive stone wall, and there are also two summerhouses and a small outbuilding. “Mother always said that the walls remember even Maria Theresa,” recollects Mrs. Kakešová. She does not know when the granary was originally built, but she admits that each such question beckons her to research the many interesting details of her great-grandfather’s life. On the ground floor we first visit the composer’s bedroom, which also served as a dining room. From Dvořák’s time remains the original bed, couch and commode. The remaining pieces of furniture, which served the composer’s family in their home on Žitná street in Prague, were brought here in 1931 after Mrs. Dvořák’s death. From ►

LEFT: Arriving around April each year, Antonín Dvořák and his family used Villa Rusalka as a summer residence. After his death the villa stayed in the family to be enjoyed by his descendants, including Mrs. Kakešová, who as a little girl spent some of her summer holidays here.

the bedroom we climb a narrow stairway to the composer’s study on the first floor. It would not be a composer’s study without a musical instrument, a beautiful piano that had to be hoisted through a specially built window in 1884. All of the furniture on this level is original. On the piano sits a larger than life bust of the composer by the Czech sculptor Josef Mařatka, originally created for the then director of the National Theatre František Adolf Šubert. The exterior of the villa has been recently renovated. The sandstone facade with a subtle Art Nouveao decor was completed around 1908 and is the work of Mrs. Kakešová’s grandfather and the composer’s son-in-law. Before this time the walls of the villa were rendered only in simple lime plaster. With the new facade came also its current name Rusalka. How did it get this name? Another son-in-law, the composer and violinist Josef Suk, decided to name it so after Antonín Dvořák’s death as a tribute to his greatest operatic triumph. Every Czech school child has learned that Antonín Dvořák was a composer and that he wrote Rusalka, but we often forget how well regarded he is throughout the world. His fame is brought home to us not only by the stacks of visitor books in Villa Rusalka, but also by the popularity of the Dvořák Prague International Music Festival. This September, already for the ninth year, the festival will celebrate the life and work of this Czech musical genius. Undoubtedly it will feature some of the musical works that were created here, in the beautiful villa in Vysoká u Příbramě. More on www.dvorakovapraha.cz ■

n 5

FA S H I O N The Folk Costume & Czech Designers

WHEN MODERNISM MEETS TRADITION text: Helena Stiessová, Anna Krutáková | styling: Michaela Roubínková hair: Tomáš Koblása | make-up: Aleksandra Sidorina | models: Iana Boiarschi and Jan Plachý/ Eskimo-Bohemia | photo: Adéla Havelková

THE TRADITIONAL FOLK COSTUME SHOWCASES THE MOST BEAUTIFUL CULTURAL ELEMENTS OF A PARTICULAR REGION, AND ITS UNIQUE DESIGN AND COLOUR IDENTIFY WHERE A DASHING LAD OR A LOVELY MAIDEN COME FROM. IT MAY SEEM THAT TODAY THE FOLK COSTUME IS NO MORE THAN A CULTURAL RELIC ON DISPLAY IN QUAINT VILLAGES DURING FESTIVALS AND DANCE PERFORMANCES, BUT OUR PHOTO ESSAY WILL SHOW YOU HOW TIMELESS THE FESTIVE FOLK COSTUME CAN BE WHEN COMBINED WITH MODERN DESIGN. The idea of a folk costume conjures up images of intricate and ornate handiwork, which is true about the Czech and Moravian folk costumes, the cultural pride of their regions. From the many beautiful variations of Czech and Moravian costumes we selected elements of the women’s and men’s costume from Podluží, including the vest (known as lajbl), the chemise with its puffy sleeves (known as rukávce) and men’s boots (known as čižmy). We wanted to marry the colourful and billowy details of these costumes with the subdued language of current Czech designers, and so we approached people whose work appeals to us for their simple yet refined lines, designers like Lukáš Macháček, Daniela Pešková and the fashion accessory creator Eliška Knotková. The results are stunning! The costume from the most southern part of Moravia has lit up the monochrome models and added a new dimension to the gently flowing lines. It has also infused new life into the drab, post-industrial environment of a Prague scrap metal yard, the setting for our photo shoot. The outcome is a remarkably trendy city style! ■ WATCH THE BACKSTAGE VIDEO AT: www.soffamag.com/youtube

Embroidered apron*, ballet dancer‘s body top and a costume-inspired cravat create a stunning combination that will energise any Monday. No weekday needs to be ordinary! SHE: scarf Petitee, stylist’s own; body top SS16 and black skirt AW14, both ODIVI HE: unisex wool coat, Lukáš Macháček; grey t-shirt and shorts, both LV6 Lukáš Macháček *unlike other costume pieces in this collection, the apron comes from the folk costume of Kyjovsko

Layered costume petticoat paired with a cream coat give the female figure an almost otherworldly appearance. Is she a doll or an angel? SHE: coat, Daniela Pešková; shoes Eliška Knotková; earrings Coral EerCuff – Gold, Antipearle

James Dean would have looked like this if he had worn a red ribbon as a ‘rebel without a cause’. The embroidered small vest in combination with a denim shirt is a sure winner. HE: denim shirt and jeans, Mi fashion label; grey t-shirt, LV6 Lukáš Macháček

Girls’ costume vest without the traditional chemise? What emerges is a captivating, ultramodern crop top, which lends itself to many colour combination possibilities. SHE: red vest AW15, ODIVI; pleated shorts LaFormela; clutch Different touch, Eliška Knotková

A white shirt should be a staple of every modern woman’s wardrobe. What if we let our fantasy fly and give puffy sleeves a try? A perfect complement to wide pants. SHE: earrings, 27JEWELRY; ring Koníček by Eliška Lhotská, Koncept story; necklace by Kristýna Malovaná, Koncept story; jeans, CHATTY; knitted shoes, Shoedaism

Richly embroidered tall boots are an integral part of the folk costume from Podluží. Why should decoration be only women’s domain? Playfulness comes through the combination of boots with streetwear coat and track pants. HE: unisex wool coat, Lukáš Macháček; grey t-shirt and track pants, LV6 Lukáš Macháček

SHE: ring Koníček by Eliška Lhotská, Koncept story; earrings 27JEWELRY; jeans, CHATTY HE: vest SS16, Lukáš Macháček; grey t-shirt, LV6 Lukáš Macháček

Leisure men’s coveralls are crowned by an embroidered beanie. For once forget the low-key head cover and dare to lighten up your surroundings! HE: coveralls SS16, Lukáš Macháček; shoes Picnic, Shoedaism A new queen! The head is crowned by an amazing costume headdress known as rožky (little horns), a symbol of an unmarried woman. The seemingly impossible combination of the headdress and suspenders elevates our concept of the free modern woman to a whole new level. SHE: nose ring Mini Septum – Silver, Antipearle; sweatshirt Lamb Edition AW15, ODIVI; long suspender belt Riwaa Nerona and suspender pantyhose Trepon, Timea.cz

“DAVID LACHAPELLE’S EXHIBITION ‘MUSES’ HIGHLIGHTS THE VISUAL SYMBOLS AND CODES THAT EVERYONE SEES DIFFERENTLY. WHEN TWO PEOPLE LOOK AT THE SAME PHOTOGRAPH, ONE CAN PERCEIVE IT AS AN HOMAGE TO THE SURREAL WORLD OF CELEBRITY, WHILE THE OTHER SEES A SCATHING AND SARCASTIC CRITIQUE OF CONSUMERISM. IT IS THIS VARIED INTERPRETATION THAT MAKES LACHAPELLE’S WORK CONTROVERSIAL AND WHY CRITICS DEBATE IT TO THIS DAY.”

Olga Trčková | curator of the exhibition DSC GALLERY, DLOUHÁ 5, PRAGUE 1, 22. 3. – 7. 5. 2016

T R AV EL Ostrava and its surroundings

A SECOND LIFE FOR A MINING METROPOLIS text: Sára Němečková | styling: SOFFA | photo: Lina Németh

WHEN YOU UTTER THE NAME OSTRAVA MOST CZECH PEOPLE IMAGINE A GLOOMY INDUSTRIAL TOWN THAT HAS LITTLE TO OFFER ITS VISITORS. BUT IN THE PAST FEW YEARS A NEW SIDE OF OSTRAVA HAS STARTED TO AWAKEN, AND THE CITY IS SLOWLY TRANSFORMING INTO A LIVELY PLACE THAT BECKONS FOR A VISIT. TO HELP YOU CHOOSE THE PLACES YOU SHOULD NOT MISS ON YOUR NEXT TRIP TO OSTRAVA, WE DECIDED TO HAVE A SNEAK PEAK AND SET OFF FOR THE MORAVIAN-SILESIAN BORDER. Ostrava is known for its smokestacks and coal mines, and the city’s metal and mining industries have left behind unforgettable scars on the landscape. But in the last few years there has been a steady decrease in industrial activity, raising the question of how to utilise the vast industrial complexes that are no longer in use. A great example of repurposing an industrial relic is the recent revitalisation of the complex at Dolní Vítkovice, used in the past for coal mining and the production of coke, a product used in metallurgy. The expansive industrial complex was recently declared a national cultural monument, and it is slowly transforming into the most important cultural centre in the greater region. When strolling past the old buildings you can admire their original details and climb to the top of the Bolt Tower – a new extension to Tall Furnace No.1, where you can marvel at the view over the city from the ► RIGHT: Josef Pleskot is the architect responsible for the new extension to Tall Furnace No. 1 and the revitalisation of the whole complex. At the top of the Bolt Tower you can take a look-out walk on extended ramps that run along the tower’s external wall.

TOP AND LEFT: Leave yourself enough time for a visit to Dolní Vítkovice, as you are likely to be blown away by the many interesting details that await. The building housing the Gallery of Visual Arts (Galerie výtvarného umění v Ostravě) was built in the 1920s in the then progressive Purism style, evident in the large expanse of red brick walls.

TOP AND RIGHT: The folks behind the local Gokana Sushi Bar offer an amazing aesthetic experience, both with their impressive interior as well as visually stunning dishes. A long corridor marks the centre of the antique bookshop Fiducia. It leads to a small labyrinth built from thousands of books.

comfort of a locally run café. The grounds are most alive in the summer during the music festival Colours of Ostrava, when Dolní Vítkovice transforms into a hopping festival city. If you get hungry during your visit to Dolní Vítkovice, head down to the city centre to the well-known Stodolní street. Although it is particularly famous for its busy nightlife, you are likely to find some interesting places even in the daytime. At the head of the street you will find the cozy sushi bar Gokana, which looks to be a bit out of place in the centre of Ostrava. Here they will prepare excellent Japanese sushi from first class ingredients right in front of your eyes. Not far from Stodolní street is a hidden paradise for all lovers of books and culture. The charming antique bookshop Fiducia has been here for many years, and if you are lucky you are bound to find some real treasures. Next to the bookshop is an art gallery and a cultural club with a diverse program. And if you are in the mood for a bit more culture, you can visit the nearby Gallery of Visual Arts, which has a great permanent collection as well as interesting temporary exhibitions. If you are looking for pleasant accommodation in the centre of Ostrava then head to the hotel city.city; it will not disappoint. Besides its excellent location it will grab your attention with its pure aesthetic – the entire ►

RIGHT: Zastřešené Náměstí (covered plaza) and the sports centre known as Trojhalí Karolina, located in former industrial buildings used previously by the Žofín iron works and the coke plant Koksovna Karolina. NEXT SPREAD: When touring the old mine Michal you will see many authentic fixtures from when the mine was abuzz with mining activity.

RIGHT AND TOP: While tourists who stay at the hotel city.city will appreciate the cozy, tastefully furnished rooms, Ostrava locals are beginning to favour the hotel restaurant, which is making a mark on the city dining scene.

hotel has been designed in the Scandinavian style and the cosy rooms offer an ideal place to put your feet up and relax. After a restful night you will be awoken with a hearty breakfast of your choice, served directly in the room. Energised by the jolt from a good cup of coffee, you can now explore places outside the city centre. In close proximity to Dolní Vítkovice is the complex named Trojhalí Karolina, which comprises two renovated industrial buildings that today serve as a covered plaza and a modern indoor sports centre for anyone looking to play group sports or badminton, or wanting to practice rollerblading on a gloomy day. Further still is a place that seems to not belong to these parts at all, for as soon as you reach the shore of the Heřmanický pond, it is as if you have been transported from Ostrava to the north of Europe. And one cannot forget the renowned mine Michal. Here you can walk the trail that miners of days past had to walk each day before they descended into the dark depth of the mine. Even the bus station exudes an interesting atmosphere, so be sure to pay attention if you are transiting by bus to nearby Havířov. There you cannot miss the renowned Havířov train station built in the Brusel style; it hides a unique glass mosaic and an unusual ceiling design. A short distance from the train station is the small Gallery Krystal, which feels like an oasis of serenity and refinement in this otherwise grim town. For more information go to www.ostrava.cz and www.ostravainfo.cz ■ LEFT: Another place of interest is the small shop called City Folklore. The little clothing shop with a cosy cafe overlooking the street beckons you to sit down for a while and perhaps peruse one of the issues of SOFFA, here for purchase.

TOP: In addition to a small shop, Gallery Krystal in Havířov hosts a wide range of exhibitions, arts workshops, public film screenings and engaging talks.

TOP AND RIGHT: For quite a few years the train station in Havířov has been slated for demolition or a complete rebuild. Recently a group of activists rallied the locals of Havířov to protest these plans, and for the moment the beautiful train station appears to be safe from the demolition ball.

E DI TO R S â&#x20AC;&#x2122; C H O I C E Traditional icons versus latest trends

IN T H E N A M E O F T R A DI T I O N styling: Adéla Kudrnová photo: company archives

THEY ARE FAMILIAR, RELIABLE AND … TIMELESS. WHAT ARE WE TALKING ABOUT? OLD-TIME FAVOURITES THAT ARE GETTING A CONTEMPORARY MAKEOVER.

S PR I N G NEW S F L A S H styling: Adéla Kudrnová photo: company archives

SPRING IS HERE AND MAJOR FASHION BRANDS ARE COMPETING FOR OUR ATTENTION WITH THEIR HOTTEST TRENDS FOR THE UPCOMING SEASON. WHICH WILL WIN THE JOSTLE TO BECOME OUR FAVOURITE?

opera PRESENTED AT THE STATE OPERA

GOUNOD

ROMEO AND JULIET CONDUCTOR: MARCO GUIDARINI STAGE DIRECTOR: SLÁVA DAUBNEROVÁ PREMIERES: 21. & 23. 4. 2016

S PR I N G F O O D Fresh salads, juices and smoothies

SU P ER H ERO ES S I X partner for the article: Tesco | recipes and text: Yasmin Keshmiri Hejduk styling: SOFFA | photo: Adéla Havelková

COMIC BOOKS ARE FULL OF BAD GUYS, VILLAINS WHO THREATEN TO DESTROY THE WORLD, AND SUPERHEROES WHO COME TO THE RESCUE AND SAVE US FROM THE CLUTCHES OF AN EVIL MASTERMIND. BUT WHAT IF THE VILLAINS ARE INVISIBLE AND THREATEN US FROM WITHIN THE CONFINES OF OUR FLESHY WALLS? THOSE ROAMING TOXINS THAT ATTACK ON THE INSIDE, FEEDING ON OUR WEAKNESSES, OUR STRESS, OUR ANXIETIES AND OUR LIFESTYLE CHOICES! THESE VILLAINS ARE SMART AND CULTIVATED; THEY HAVE EVOLVED THROUGH GENERATIONS, NURTURED BY FORCES OF MALICE, AND THEY HAVE LEARNT TO ATTACK PARTS OF OUR BODIES THAT WERE NOT EVEN ON OUR RADAR! WHAT SUPERHEROES CAN FIGHT THESE MENACING TOXINS AND WHAT SUPERPOWERS DO THEY POSSES? Presenting the Six Superheroes, ready to fight for your every breath and cause a bit of havoc along the way. But remember that superheroes have double identities; when they are not saving lives they are just ordinary entities living in our midst. So respect them with care and caution, because as with everything in life, too much of a good thing can turn out to be bad. NOTE: Make, drink and consume responsibly. These recipes are not food replacements or medical cures, they are merely an added bonus to a healthy and well nourished body. Be moderate and safe, and above all, enjoy the fruits of your labor. ■ We thank the Tesco company for the ingredients.

ERADICATOR:

ACTIVATED CHARCOAL TRAPS AND EXPELS TOXINS, IMPROVES SKIN AND CURES A HANGOVER. 1 activated charcoal pill | 750 ml filtered water | 1 lemon | 1 tbsp maple syrup | pinch of Himalayan salt

DIRECTIONS:

Juice the lemon using a hand juicer, and add the remaining ingredients. Mix them well to dissolve the charcoal and sip slowly throughout the day. Serves 1, consume moderately!

EVERYDAY HERO:

DIRECTIONS:

Juice all the ingredients in your juicer, finishing with the green apple, and drink immediately, serves 2.

SUPERPOWER SHAKE:

PEANUT BUTTER RICH IN FIBER, PROTEIN AND HEALTHY FATS, AND A GREAT SOURCE OF POTASSIUM AND VITAMIN E. A SUPER ENERGY BOOSTER THAT ALSO TASTES GREAT. 2 tsp all-natural peanut butter | 1 banana | 100 ml coconut water | extra filtered water to dilute 1 tbsp soaked oats | 1 tsp soaked chia seeds | 1 tsp lucuma powder | 1 tsp shredded coconut

DIRECTIONS:

Soak the chia seeds and oats overnight or at least 20 minutes before blending. Blend all ingredients in a strong blender for 3-4 minutes, add extra filtered water if desired. Serves 1.

BERRY PUNCH:

ACAI BERRY POWDER PACKED WITH ANTIOXIDANTS, AMINO ACIDS, FIBER, ESSENTIAL FATTY ACIDS, VITAMINS AND MINERALS. BOOSTS ENERGY LEVELS AND METABOLISM. 1 tsp Acai berry powder | 150 ml unsweetened almond milk | handful of fresh or frozen blueberries strawberries and blackberries | 4 dried plums | 5-10 almonds | 1 tsp flax seed powder

DIRECTIONS:

Blend all ingredients in a strong blender for 2-3 minutes until smooth, add extra filtered water if desired. Serves 1.

SUPER TONIC:

TURMERIC ANTI-INFLAMMATORY IMMUNITY BOOSTER AND TOXIN CLEANSER, A GREAT SUPPORT FOR THE LIVER. 5-7 cm piece of fresh turmeric root (or 1 tsp turmeric powder) | 4 mandarins | 1 red apple 1 peeled lemon (keeping white pith) | 1 tsp raw honey | Â¼ tsp flax oil | pinch of black pepper

DIRECTIONS:

Dilute the honey in a little bit of hot water, juice all ingredients in a juicer and add together mixing well with the pepper and flax oil. Best served chilled or with a little bit of ice. Serves 1.

MORNING KICK-ASS:

MACA POWDER PACKED WITH POTASSIUM, IRON, MANGANESE, CALCIUM, ZINC AND COPPER, IT BOOSTS ENDURANCE, ENERGY LEVELS AND MOOD. WHAT MORE COULD YOU WANT? 1 tsp Maca powder | 3 pink lady apples | 1 large peeled lemon (keeping white pith) | 1 large organic lemon with skin 7 cm piece of ginger root | ½ tsp bee pollen (optional) | ¼ tsp cayenne pepper

DIRECTIONS:

Juice the apples, lemon and ginger root through your juicer, then add all the cayenne pepper and Maca powder and mix thoroughly. Add the bee pollen if desired; it may affect taste! Serves 2.

MINDTRAVELLERS BY SOFFA F O R M O U V O F E S T I VA L Introducing animations made for the motion design festival Mouvo by five Mindtravellers by SOFFA. Have a look at their Mouches Volantes inspired designs! Watch the animations by Diana Govina, Jan Kokolia, Space Bar and Tragic Terror at www.soffamag.com. The MINDTRAVELLERS BY SOFFA platform is intended for creative spirits from all fields the world over: illustrators, graphic designers, photographers and writers. You and your work will be visible not only to other creative people, but also to potential clients. WE HAVE MANY NEW CHALLENGES PREPARED FOR YOU. EXPLORE THEM BY JOINING MINDTRAVELLERS BY SOFFA!

Diana Govina I Space Bar

Jan Kokolia | Tragic Terror

WWW.SOFFAMAG.COM/MINDTRAVELLERS

SP R ING L E T T UC E F RO M PO L A B Í partner for the article: Tesco Finest | text: Helena Novotná styling: SOFFA | photo: Adéla Havelková

WE LEFT PRAGUE IN THE DREARY RAIN BUT THE CLOUDS BEGAN TO PART ALONG THE WAY, AND BY THE TIME WE REACHED THE GLEAMING GREENHOUSES OF ZVO IN PŘEROV NAD LABEM, THE SUN HAD FINALLY COME OUT. JUST AS WE HAD IMAGINED THE SCENE ON THE DRIVE UP, WE WERE GREETED BY FRESH SPRING LETTUCES ARRANGED IN A PERFECT CHESS-BOARD PATTERN. Tesco Finest has been working with local suppliers for some time, and one of their newest partners is the ZVO Sales Cooperative Polabí. Starting this spring Tesco markets are offering lettuce from Polabí, sometimes called the Garden of the Czech Republic. On offer is the Salanova variety in both the classic and crispy versions, and both are available in green and red, so you can more easily colour-coordinate your salad. At the time of our visit the lettuce plants were still quite small, requiring another three weeks to grown into abundant heads. Once sufficiently large the lettuce plants are packed in their planters and travel directly to the customers. Nothing is cut or picked; the lettuce heads stay in the planters and that is how you bring them home. While the head of the classic variety is best cut off whole, leaving the individual leaves to ►

LEFT: In the greenhouse it is difficult to tell the neatly arranged plants apart, as they look exactly the same. The key to their uniform look is the quality of the growing substrate and the ideal growing conditions, which include lower temperatures to enhance the colour of the leaves.

separate, the crispy variety can be picked little by little, allowing individual leaves to grow back. Thanks to the planter the lettuce remains wonderfully fresh for a very long time, assuming you look after it properly. What to do to help the lettuces grow? Mr. Bělohlávek, the lettuce expert, shared some good advice. Lettuce does best in a cool environment with a temperature range between 15 and 17°C, so it is wise to keep the lettuce plant in a window, on a balcony or in a winter garden. You can certainly keep it in a flat, but it will not last for many days, and you will have to pay close attention to watering. Lettuce grows back in about three weeks to a month, which is the same amount of time a seed requires to grow into a seedling before transplanting. Inside the greenhouses the seedlings have the same ideal conditions which explains why they look identical. We left Přerov nad Labem with a small crate of lettuces which we are tending carefully with Mr. Bělohlávek’s advice. Rightfully or not, we feel like experienced gardeners - a small dream of any city slicker. You can find the classic and crispy varieties of the Salanova lettuce in the Tesco Finest selection of your local Tesco market. For more information go to www.itesco.cz and www.tescorecepty.cz ■

RIGHT: The Salanova variety has a pleasant taste, sweeter than iceberg lettuce. Try it for yourself!

WI N T WO S 10 S P R ING CH A I R S FROM S LEZ Á KOV Y Z ÁVODY!

Win two stylish S10 SPRING CHAIRS! Write to us at info@soffamag.com (subject: Slezákovy Závody) and tell us what type of interior is most suitable for these chairs and why. The most interesting response wins! For complete contest rules go to www.soffamag.com

More at www.slezakovyzavody.cz

S O F FA & I K EA IKEA nomenclature

W HAT SHA L L I T B E C A L L ED? text: Helena Stiessová | illustration: Janka Murínová

ARE YOU A FAN OF IKEA? IF YES THEN YOU MIGHT LIKE TO KNOW THAT INGVAR WAS 90 YEARS OLD IN MARCH. ARE YOU WONDERING WHAT GRACEFUL OLD SOFA OR ARMCHAIR INGVAR MIGHT BE? WELL HERE IS A HINT: THE SWEDISH COMPANY IKEA WAS FOUNDED IN 1943 BY A MAN WHO INCORPORATED HIS INITIALS INTO THE COMPANY’S NAME. YES, THAT’S RIGHT, ON MARCH 30, 2016 INGVAR KAMPRAD CELEBRATED A VERY IMPORTANT LIFE JUBILEE. THE STORY OF THE WORLD-FAMOUS COMPANY IS INEXTRICABLY LINKED TO HIS NAME, AND SO WE HAVE DECIDED TO FOCUS THIS FEATURE ON THE ART OF IKEA PRODUCT NAMING. A visit to an IKEA store is inextricably linked to the tongue-twisting names of various IKEA products, which IKEA fans from around the world attempt to pronounce and in some cases even memorise. They belong to the pleasantly wacky cultural milieu that is understood perhaps by no one else than Ingvar Kamprad’s compatriots. And that’s because unlike the rest of us they actually understand what these names mean. The founder of IKEA apparently had a difficult time remembering numbers, but he had an easier time remembering names. This turns out to have been great for us, as it is much more pleasant to sit at home on a chair named Ingolf than on some nameless piece of furniture with only a serial number. By now Ingolf, an old Scandinavian name for a man, has more wooden namesakes than human ones, and IKEA has taken it as its duty to look after other obscure first names or remote localities in far northern Europe. ►

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So how does IKEA go about naming a new product? There is an elaborate system in place to manage the flood of possible first names, place names or Swedish words. Carl von Linné, the ‘father of modern taxonomy’ and Ingvar’s countryman, would rejoice over IKEA’s system. For example, sofas are named after Swedish towns and cities and carpets after Danish ones. Curtains and textiles carry the names of flowers and girls, while boys’ names are given to writing desks and chairs. Garden furniture reminds us of Swedish islands (you know it by the last letter ö, which is an economical symbol for an island). The fun really begins when you move into the kitchen department or small decorative objects. Drinking glasses are named after mushrooms or fish, and the best names are those created from adjectives: chopping board PROPPMÄTT would be translated as STUFFED (from food) and the cooking pot OUMBÄRLIG is simply INDISPENSABLE. We find little plays on words in every department, so the block-out curtain TUPPLUR could be named in English as CATNAP, the round table lamp KNUBBIG translates as CHUBBY, and if you are serving dinner on plates ALLVETANDE, you know they are ALL-KNOWING. With so many different products sold all over the world there is of course the danger that some innocent Swedish word will be given a whole new meaning in its host country. That is one of the reasons why IKEA likes names with letters Ä, Ö and Å, which minimise this risk. And so thanks to Ingvar Kamprad people all over the world are passively studying Swedish and geography, the internet is awash with IKEA dictionaries (e.g. http://lar5.com/ikea/) and old-fashioned names like Oddvar, Algot, Ullastina or Verna have a bright future. Is it time for IKEA to create a product line with its founder’s name? That just might be the perfect present for his 90th birthday! ■

FREDRIKA Fabrics and curtains: Scandinavian girls’ names The unusual women’s name Fredrika hides the word “fred”, which means peace. Is it now clear why fabric with a fun and colourful print is named this way? The simple retro flowers are perfect for a window dressing, but they could also work on a flowing hippie skirt, the kind that Fredrika used to wear with her long flowing hair. EKORRE Children’s products: names of mammals, birds and descriptive names the wooden rocking moose (Scandinavian version of a rocking horse) was named EKORRE, which means squirrel. The poor moose simply has to put up with this injustice. But what wouldn’t it do for a smile on a child’s face.

HURDAL Beds, wardrobes and hallway furniture: names of Norwegian localities Thanks to nature’s wood grain pattern, each piece in the HURDAL series has its unique character. Robust beds, cabinets and cupboards made from pine are named after a Norwegian district located just 70 km from Oslo, which beckons with its unobtrusive beautiful nature. Charming without frills.

RANDERUP Carpets: names of Danish localities The RANDERUP carpet with the fun stripy pattern will last and last. It got its name from a village in Denmark that takes pride in its lovely church from the 13th century. We wonder whether in naming the carpet the designer was inspired by the straight lines of the church, or whether the credit should go to the Swedish word “randig”, which means stripy. HEJSAN Storage boxes and baskets, wall decorations, pictures, frames and clocks: Swedish slang words, names of Swedish localities Ahoy there! That’s the call shoppers hear when passing shelves full of colourful storage boxes. Those who hear the call and bring these pretty boxes and files folders home can be sure that their home office will never be boring. Now, they know how to say hello when visiting Sweden. Hejsan! MURKLA Kitchen items: names of fish and mushrooms Murkla, or pufferfish, is a Scandinavian version of the fugu fish. It is a speciality that must be prepared according to strict rules; otherwise it is very poisonous. The drinking glass that carries its name presents no such danger, so you can supply your kitchen with as many as you want. The colourful pattern will liven up any birthday party.

PATRIK Writing desks, office chairs and swivel chairs: Scandinavian boys’ names Among men sporting the nice name Patrick are surprisingly many sports stars. But just because they are good at sports doesn’t mean they didn’t do their homework. Whether or not you are an active type, you need to be comfortable when sitting at the computer, so your figure wouldn’t suffer. And this chair looks good too! SILVERÅN Bathroom accessories: lakes, rivers and bays Just as a landscape comes alive in the reflections of lakes, rivers or brooks, so will your mirror when you look into it in the morning, even if you are still a bit sleepy. A river with the romantic name Silverån (pronounced silverón) gave the name to this white framed-mirror with a shelf. The river flows through the Småland region in the south of Sweden.

KVARTÄR Lighting: measurements, seasons, months, nautical terminology and names of Swedish localities The fresh and airy ceiling light is named after a quarter, or rather the Quaternary Period. This geological time began more than two million years ago and is still with us. The sectional light cover seems to beckon on a journey into a time when dinosaurs roamed the streets of Prague.

ÄPPLARÖ Garden furniture: Scandinavian islands The stable and comfortable pieces of garden furniture ÄPPLARÖ (pronounced eplaré) invite you to an afternoon chat with friends under a bushy pear tree. Sunrays weave their warmth through the leaves and the table is set with home-made elder flower lemonade and cakes fresh from the oven. This is how life goes on the island of Äpplarö in Stockholm County, perhaps after the harvest of hay. HASSELNÖT Bowls, vases, planters and candles: names of Swedish localities, descriptive names, herbs and fruit Naming a planter after hazelnuts? Why not? After all a hazelnut is full of good nutrients and a good planter works similarly – supplies water to a plant so it can grow well. The planter HASSELNÖT (pronounced haselnét) got its name from a hazelnut, but don’t think about it too long, because you just might eat your children’s hazelnut chocolate. KIVIK Sofas, armchairs, chairs and dining tables: names of Swedish localities The idyllic town of Kivik lies in the southern part of Sweden on the coast of the Baltic Sea. In a local restaurant you can feast on freshly caught fish and then stroll through an apple orchard in bloom, with white beaches glistening in the distance. Or you can dream about it on a white KIVIK sofa.

PAPELOTE

LIVE LOUDER

Papelote is a Czech brand of stationery where paper is not a mere base for writing, but a material full of flavour, fragrance, sound and colour. Papelote offers a wide range of original notebooks, sketchbooks, textile cases and much more – all designed and made in the Czech Republic from environmentally friendly materials.

This April IKEA is launching GILTIG – an eye-catching collection of tableware and home textiles. It’s the result of a uniquey collaboration with London-based menswear designer Katie Eary and is guaranteed to turn up the volume at any party. #FURNISHWITHFASHION

papelote.cz

n WIN A PAIR OF ARTIS SPURT COMBI CROSS-COUNTRY SKIS! Write to us at info@soffamag.com (subject: ARTIS) to tell us which Artis product you best remember from your childhood and why. The two most interesting responses will each win a pair of Artis SPURT Combi cross-country skis. For complete contest rules go to www.soffamag.com

More at www.artis.cz

M O R E I N F O : T E R E Z A C E R M A K O VA . C O M

C R EAT I V E PEO PL E Traditional folk costumes in Podluží

HOW A FOLK COSTUME COMES TO LIFE text: Adéla Kudrnová, Hana Vaňátková | styling: Hana Vaňátková, Veronika Jiroušková, Eva Bártková | photo: Adéla Havelková

AN ISSUE DEDICATED TO TRADITIONS CANNOT OVERLOOK FOLK COSTUMES! THESE RICHLY DECORATED PIECES OF CLOTHING FASCINATE WITH THEIR VARIETY, HISTORY AND TIMELESS BEAUTY. HOW IS SUCH COSTUME CREATED? SOFFA TRAVELLED TO SOUTHERN MORAVIA TO THE AREA OF PODLUŽÍ TO INTRODUCE YOU TO PEOPLE WHO HAVE PERFECTED THE TECHNIQUES OF CREATING TRADITIONAL FOLK COSTUMES. The folk costumes from the area of Podluží are among the most opulent of costumes worn in Slovácko (south Moravia), and are therefore ideal for illustrating the various crafts and techniques used in making the costumes – from embroidery on shirts to special boot-making techniques. Although varied, the crafts have one thing in common: a deep respect for patterns, cuts and colours. There is no room for experimentation, perhaps because the techniques necessary to create a costume are so difficult to learn that simply mastering them is a great achievement! You will see for yourself. We will show you embroidery of a punt (open dart) on a boy’s shirt, making of boots, sewing of molová košela (organza shirt) and decoration of traditional červenice (embroidered pants). Although this article plays with a range of happy colours, as do the costumes themselves, the story is not an entirely happy one. None of the featured artisans has a successor to continue their work, and almost all of them find it difficult to source the materials they need. We hope that this article can make a contribution towards helping to preserve these beautiful traditions! ■ We thank Veronika Krásná from Folklorní soubor Svéráz (Folk Troupe Svéráz) for her help in creating this article.

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ALTHOUGH DANA AND BRONISLAVA WORK TOGETHER, EACH HAS HER UNIQUE STYLE, AND THEY CAN TELL THEIR STYLES APART. THEY ALSO TRY TO VARY THE PATTERNS IN SUCH A WAY THAT NO TWO SHIRTS ARE ALIKE. BOTH LADIES PAY GREAT ATTENTION TO THE QUALITY OF THE FABRIC AND THE COTTON THREAD, WHICH THEY SOURCE THEMSELVES.

BRONISLAVA BARTOŠOVÁ AND DANA UHROVÁ | LANŽHOT EMBROIDERY OF PUNTS ON BOYS’ SHIRTS Mrs. Bartošová and Mrs. Uhrová are twins. They both work in education, but their evenings and weekends are dedicated to the embroidery of punts (open darts on the front of a boy’s shirt). They are the only two people who do this type of work in the whole of Podluží. To embroider a punt you must follow strict rules: red cotton for the shirt of an unmarried man and black cotton for a married man. No other colour is allowed. Although the demand for their work is high, they do not feel comfortable to raise their prices and so embroidering remains their hobby. The completion of one shirt takes about a month of evening and weekend work, and as soon as one punt is finished, another shirt awaits.

MAREK TUREČEK MAKES BOOTS FOR FOLK COSTUMES FROM ALMOST ALL REGIONS. MOST OF HIS BOOTS ARE FROM THE POLUŽÍ AREA, BUT HE ALSO MAKES BOOTS FOR COSTUMES FROM KYJOV AND HRADIŠŤĚ. BOOTS FROM DIFFERENT REGIONS VARY BY CUT AND STYLE OF EMBROIDERY. Purple silk tassel on boots – called šongol – is a sign of an unmarried man.

MAREK TUREČEK | LANŽHOT TRADITIONAL COSTUME BOOTS Marek Tureček is one of only three shoemakers specialising in folk costume boots currently working in Moravia. He inherited his workshop from his grandfather who had taken it over from his father, so costume boots are a family tradition. Unfortunately the low income this craft provides means there is currently no one interested in succeeding him. Besides the time he spends sewing or embroidering boots in his workshops in Kostice and Lanžhot, Mr. Tureček spends a lot of time searching for materials. He drives as far as Vienna to get wooden nails, but thankfully has found a local blacksmith to make him the U-shaped brass taps for the boot heels.

ALTHOUGH MRS. KOŘÍNKOVÁ CREATES HER EMBROIDERIES ON A TREADLE MACHINE, THIS IS STILL HANDWORK. TO MAKE HER BEAUTIFUL EMBROIDERIES SHE FIRST DRAWS THE PATTERN AND THEN PUSHES THE TREADLE WHILE EMBROIDERING AROUND EVERY FINE LINE. AFTERWARDS SHE CUTS OUT TINY PIECES OF THE FABRIC WITH VERY FINE SCISSORS AND THEN FOLLOWS ONCE AGAIN ON THE TREADLE TO REFINE AND FINISH HER WORK. Molová košela – sheer organza shirt - worn by men as part of the folk costume, seen primarily in village celebrations.

MARIE KOŘÍNKOVÁ | LANŽHOT HAND EMBROIDERY ON A TREADLE SEWING MACHINE Mrs. Marie Kořínková is retired, but for the past 15 years she has spent every day hand embroidering on her treadle sewing machine – a very demanding technique only a few people know today. The fine white embroideries she makes for the local folk costumes are as authentic as her beautiful local dialect. The work is extremely precise, to the millimetre, and it is demanding on hand and foot coordination as well as concentration. The long hours required to sit at the machine, both for learning and for the embroidering work, are probably the reason why there is no interest among young people to continue with this craft. Mrs. Kořínková embroiders mostly molové košile (festive sheer shirts for men) and other sheer materials.

THE OLDEST PATTERN IN THE ARCHIVE MRS. MALÁNÍKOVÁ INHERITED FROM HER GRANDFATHER IS FROM THE YEAR 1890. A TYPICAL PATTERN OFTEN REPEATED ON ČERVENICE IS THE SO CALLED APPLE. SYMMETRY IS VERY IMPORTANT IN THE MAKING OF ČERVENICE, AS IS THE USE OF THE FOUR BASIC COLOURS THAT ARE TYPICAL OF THE REGION. Red kerchief made from brocade silk with colourful flowers woven in, worn by unmarried men. It is supposed to be tied in a way that the edge of the shirt collar is a little visible.

MARKÉTA MALÁNÍKOVÁ | DOLNÍ BOJANOVICE SEWING AND EMBROIDERY OF ČERVENICE, MAKING ROŽKY Mrs. Markéta Maláníková has been making a living from sewing and embroidering červenice – festive men’s pants made from wool – for most of her life. She also makes the women’s headdresses known as rožky. Making červenice is a family tradition, and Mrs. Maláníková is the third generation in this profession. She inherited an extensive archive of patterns from her grandfather, which she applies using a technique called šnůrování, in which a flat cord is sewn onto the pants to outline the contours of the motif, and the details are then filled in with embroidery. The folk costume from Podluží has several local variants for červenice; they can be embroidered with blue designs or multi-coloured ones. Since the pants are made from wool, Mrs. Maláníková inserts a black cotton liner to help make the pants a little cooler.

PREPARATION FOR PAINTING IS QUITE COMPLEX, AS THE MIXING AND THICKENING OF PAINTS TAKES SOME TIME AND THEN THE INDIVIDUAL COLOURS MUST BE APPLIED IN STAGES. WHEN PAINTING RIBBONS YOU CAN ALSO USE SEQUINS AND GOLD AND SILVER DUST. THE DECORATION OF A FULL SET OF RIBBONS FOR A BOY’S OR A GIRL’S COSTUME (FOR ROŽKY, BELT AND A RIBBON AROUND THE NECK) TAKES ABOUT 25 HOURS.

SILVIE MARKOVIČOVÁ | LANŽHOT PAINTER (RIBBONS, FACADES, GLASS...) Despite her youth Silvie Markovičová focuses on traditional crafts full time and also as part of her university studies. Her interests started to develop in secondary school when she herself started to wear the folk costume. At first she began to paint for her friends and eventually she learned various techniques of traditional ornamentation. She now paints ribbons, facades of cellars and other buildings, as well as glass. Ribbons for girls’ and boys’ costumes are most difficult to paint and require a lot of practice. The basis is keeping the symmetry of the pattern and following the traditional colour palette. But painting of ribbons is also very creative and Silvie is able to give reigns to her own imagination.

GLOSSARY OF TERMS: Cangláč, canglovica – embroidered apron for married women Cifra – detail of the pattern on červenice (see below) Cifrování – part of a men’s dance Červenice – men’s festive embroidered pants, fastened with hooks and belt Fialky – name for men’s červenice (see above) used in Lanžhot, derived from the reddish-purple colour of the pants Čipky – lace fringe on fěrtoch, tacle and obojek (see glossary for terms) Čižmy – boots that are part of the festive costume for both boys and girls, made from stiffened or hard leather Družba – married man who oversees wedding proceedings Fěrtoch – apron for an unmarried woman Húseňák – festive hat made from stiff black felt with features that symbolise an unmarried man,

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typical from northern Podluží Jablúčko – main detail of the pattern on červenice (see above), shaped like an apple Kasanice – petticoat for a festive costume, ironed into small wavy folds Kabaňa – men’s coat Kordula – boys’ short vest without sleeves Kotůč – wreath for a girl Lajbl – short vest worn over rukávce (see below), a very old part of a girls’ costume Molová košela – men’s festive sheer shirt made from organza Mužák – married man Obojek – rectangular shawl with white embroidery, placed over the shoulders and tied along the neckline, part of both girls’ and women’s festive costume Punt – open darts on boys’ and men’s shirts that have been embroidered along their whole length – about 15 cm – in red (for boys) or black (married men) Rukávce – short shirt with puffy sleeves that go down to the elbows Rožky – headdress from stiff board covered in red brocade silk, in the back the headdress makes what appear to be little horns, worn only by unmarried women as part of their festive costume Svéráz – name for a motif from Podluží often used on hand-painted ribbons, worn only by unmarried men and women Šatka – ceremonial costume worn only during important events (weddings, funerals, etc.) Šňůrování – technique of sewing a flat cord to outline contours of a motif, the remainder of the motif is embroidered Šohaj – unmarried man Šongol – silk purple tassel on men’s boots, sign of an unmarried man Tacle – finishing of the bottom side on puffy organza sleeves worn as part of a festive costume Trčanice – petticoat for a festive costume Verbuňk – traditional men’s dance

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C ZEC H B R A N DS and their enduring faces

THE WINDING PATH TO SUCCESS text: Martin Sova | collage: Lenka Hlaváčová | photo: company archives

YOU DON’T BECOME A CLASSIC, AN ICON OR A LEGEND JUST BY DESIGN. IT TAKES MORE THAN THAT. A GREAT DEAL OF EFFORT, LUCK AND GOOD TIMING IS NEEDED, BUT ALSO THE ABILITY TO CAPTIVATE PEOPLE IN A UNIQUE WAY. THE CZECH REPUBLIC HAS SEVERAL BRANDS THAT HAVE NOT ONLY MANAGED TO ENDURE, AND RIDE-OUT THE TOTALITARIAN REGIME OF THE PAST, BUT IN SOME CASES ALSO RISE FROM THE ASHES TO RETURN TO THEIR RIGHTFUL PROMINENCE. THEIR STORIES ARE VARIED, BUT THEY HAVE ONE THING IN COMMON: THEIR PASSION FOR GOOD WORK. Every nation likes to indulge in romantic notions about its exceptional skills or qualities. The Czechs like to boast about their ‘golden hands’, by which they mean their innate talent for craftsmanship. They started to translate this talent into entrepreneurial success during the period between the two world wars, and many of their coveted brands originate from this period. It was a time when people left their villages for work in cities, when entrepreneurs looked out for their employees and trained them, and when business leaders were willing to work with designers, architects and project managers in the quest to create truly unique products. The political events that followed the Second World War clipped their wings, however, and all enterprises were nationalised. Some continued in full production, but others underwent radical changes. Yet, in a land hidden behind the Iron Curtain and shrouded for a time in a general atmosphere of grey, notable creators were nurtured, exceptional products created, and the quality of craftsmanship retained. Thus, when freedom returned in the 1990s, the country’s often hidden potential was given an opportunity to flourish. Some brands were able to come back straight away, while others needed more time. ■

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WOOD IS A FASCINATING MATERIAL. IT IS CREATED SLOWLY AS THE TREE GROWS OVER A LONG PERIOD OF TIME AND SO REQUIRES THAT A WOODWORKER APPLY GREAT CARE AND SENSITIVITY WHEN WORKING WITH IT. THE ABILITY TO BEND WOOD OPENS UP MANY POSSIBILITIES IN WOOD DESIGN, AND THE CZECH BRAND TON HAS BEEN EXPLORING THESE POSSIBILITIES WITH GOOD RESULTS FOR A NUMBER OF YEARS. THEIR EFFORTS ARE HELPED BY CZECH AND INTERNATIONAL DESIGNERS, AND BUILD ON A 150-YEAR OLD TRADITION OF FURNITURE MAKING IN THE TOWN OF BYSTŘICE POD HOSTÝNEM. Bending of wood moved into industrial production in the second half of the 19th century after almost a century of research. Michael Thonet was a pioneer in this area and developed a technique in which he first steamed wood and then bent it with the help of various forms. Based in the German Rhineland, Thonet made bent wood furniture only for custom orders at first, and his customers included, among others, Prince Metternich. The popularity of his furniture soon led to mass production, first based in Koryčany and later in Bystřice pod Hostýnem. The reason for his move to Moravia was simple: the cost of labour was less than in Vienna, where most of his chairs ended up, and the area had sufficient raw material. Problems created by the two world wars were further compounded by nationalisation in 1953, and the Gebrüder Thonet company became the state-owned enterprise Ton. During socialism the company survived on tradition, but after 1989, when it was transferred to private ownership, the company began to capitalise on the existing technical know-how and on the unique skills of the local craftspeople. The brand has begun to make its mark thanks to collaboration with designers like Tom Kelley, Mads K. Johansen, Olgoj Chorchoj and more recently Arik Levy and E-ggs.

OUR MEMORIES OF CHILDHOOD ARE USUALLY MARKED WITH A FEW KEY MOMENTS. FOR MANY THIRTY-SOMETHING CZECHS THESE INCLUDE SCHOOL SKI TRIPS AND SUMMER CAMPS, NEITHER OF WHICH CAN BE IMAGINED WITHOUT ONE OF OUR DOMESTIC CONSTANTS: THE BRAND ARTIS, FOREVER LINKED WITH FUN AND SPORT. WHILE FOR MANY CZECHS THE CROSS-COUNTRY SKIS AND PING-PONG TABLES MADE BY ARTIS MAY HAVE BEEN ORDINARY, THEY WERE AN IMPORTANT PART OF OUR PASTIME. TODAY FEW ARE AWARE OF JUST HOW INNOVATIVE THIS BRAND WAS. Artis was created in the 1950s as part of the national concern Sport Praha, which included a number of small enterprises making various sport equipment like skis, sleds, hockey sticks and even boats. The brand touched a wide range of sport disciplines and became an integral part of life for several generations of athletes big and small. It was also a source of significant innovation that helped many professional athletes reach top performance levels. When Artis introduced the Sapporo cross-country ski in 1962, for example, it was the first laminated crosscountry ski on the market. Czech national teams naturally embraced all of the innovative products that Artis produced, including the first European hockey sticks with a bent blade, which today are considered a matter of course. After 1989 the national concern was broken up into individual enterprises based on specialisation, and the emerging free market presented a great challenge and opportunity. Following several ownership changes Artis was bought by the current owners in 2011, and they are working hard to systematically revive this Czech legend. They have brought Artis hockey sticks back out of retirement, renewed production of cross-country skis in collaboration with the successful company Sporten, and continue to produce quality equipment for table tennis.

A CZECHOSLOVAK ICON OF THE 1960s, BOTAS SPORTS SHOES ARE INFUSED WITH THE SPIRIT OF GREAT ATHLETES LIKE VĚRA ČÁSLAVSKÁ AND JIŘÍ RAŠKA. THEY ARE RECOGNISABLE BY THEIR DISTINCTIVE SHAPE AND STRIKING COLOURS, WHICH HAVE ENDEARED THEM TO A NEW GENERATION OF FANS. THEIR ATHLETIC PERFORMANCE HAS BECOME LESS IMPORTANT, AND THEY ARE MORE LIKELY TO BE SEEN ON THE DANCE FLOOR THAN IN A SPORTS HALL. INTERESTINGLY, THEIR REVIVAL BEGAN IN A SCHOOL. The shoe brand Botas was born in the early 1960s in the state-run shoe factory in Skuteč near Pardubice. The factory produced all manner of sports shoes, from shoes intended for athletics to those used for parachuting. Their iconic design was developed in 1966 by Marcel Scheinpflugsaw, and made at first from the high-quality hide of Mongolian white horses. The Botas brand continued for some time to be regarded as a mark of comfortable and accessible ‘luxury’, but eventually the brand lots its lustre. The credit for the revival of the Botas brand goes to a pair of students from the Academy of Arts, Architecture and Design in Prague. Jan Kloss and Jakub Korouš selected the iconic model as a basis for their school project and created their own redesign of the shoes and their packaging. The project won the first prize at the European Design Awards that year, and brought the two young men into contact with the Botas company. As a result, in 2009 the young designers and the company released their joint collection Botas 66. Soon the combination of local design, local production and a good price/quality ratio made the redesigned sports shoes a big hit among young city folk, and this was quickly noticed by tourists visiting the Czech Republic. Collaboration between the Botas firm and the young designers continues, and 2016 saw new colours and modified designs in the Botas sports shoe line.

Mikulášovice was originally an agricultural village, but in the 18th century it became an industrial centre when knife manufacturing was established there. One of the first knife-manufacturers was the aristocrat Ignaz Rösler, considered the most important individual of that period, but other knife-manufacturers soon followed. When they were incorporated into a state-run enterprise in the 1950s, they became known as Mikov and they still function under this name today. The company looks with pride on the legacy of its predecessors and builds on this legacy in their current practices. One of their most typical products is the little silver fish, originally made with a carbon blade but now of course with a blade from stainless steel and a handle from a zinc alloy. The fish is well suited to great Czech traditions such as tramping, camping and mushroom picking, and this is probably why it is still a national favourite. Since 2007 the company has made a version with a damascus steel blade and a silver handle, and in 2012 there was even a collector’s edition made of gold. Mikov’s product line is not limited to this one iconic piece; the company also makes knives for chefs, soldiers, butchers and hunters. A few months ago it even came out with a new Pocket line created in collaboration with studio Olgoj Chorchoj. The new folding knives from stainless steel come in three variations, and very simply yet elegantly shepherd Mikov’s traditional design into the 21st century.

THE INVENTOR OF THE SMALL FOLDING KNIFE SHAPED LIKE A SILVER FISH PROBABLY NEVER IMAGINED THAT ONE DAY THE KNIFE WOULD BE AN ESSENTIAL TOOL OF ANY CZECH ADVENTURER. IT IS STILL NOT CLEAR WHO CREATED THE LITTLE FISH, OR WHY IT WAS SHAPED THAT WAY, BUT WE KNOW IT ORIGINATED IN THE NORTH BOHEMIAN TOWN OF MIKULÁŠOVICE, THE CENTRE OF THE CZECH CUTLERY INDUSTRY. WE ALSO KNOW THAT IT HAS BECOME AN INDISPENSABLE PIECE OF GEAR FOR ANY NATURE-LOVING CZECH WHO NEEDS A RELIABLE AND INEXPENSIVE FOLDING KNIFE.

THEIR BEGINNINGS ARE ROOTED IN A FAMILY-RUN LOCKSMITH WORKSHOP BASED IN BYSTŘICE POD HOSTÝNEM, A SMALL MORAVIAN TOWN KNOWN PRIMARILY AS A PLACE OF PILGRIMAGE. ROBERT SLEZÁK, THE OWNER, WAS A SUCCESSFUL ENTREPRENEUR WHO STARTED WITH SMALL METAL PRODUCTS AND STEADILY MOVED INTO BUILDING METAL-FRAMED FURNITURE. THE BUSINESS SURVIVED THE FIRST WORLD WAR AND BY THE 1930s HIS FIRM WAS ONE OF THE MOST PROMINENT FURNITURE PRODUCERS IN CZECHOSLOVAKIA, FILLING FLATS, HOSPITALS AND SCHOOLS WITH BENT-METAL FURNITURE. The characteristic style of the Slezákovy závody brand was inspired by functionalism: bent steel pipes plated in chrome, nickel or brass lent themselves to creating simple, practical and elegant pieces of furniture. Their combination of metal and wood became one of the defining decorative elements of many Czechoslovak households, where many are preserved to this day. This is not surprising, as the design of their chairs, beds, coat racks and writing desks with integrated drawers is so timeless that it easily blends into any interior. Unfortunately the successful brand met the same fate as all other large Czechoslovak companies: after the Second World War and the successive political changes the company was nationalised and incorporated into a large state-owned enterprise. Its product range was reduced, and thanks to a lack of competition, quality dropped and so did interest. In the 1990s the company returned to private hands and began the fight to reclaim its good name, and it should be said that it is doing well in this regard. Their bet on tradition seems to have paid off, as seen by their involvement in last year’s renovation of the functionalist hotel Axa in the centre of Prague, where their leather and oak furniture evokes an air of unpretentious luxury.

M ENâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; S G RO O M I N G Barber Shop Comeback

M EN’ S C LUB text: Sára Němečková | styling: SOFFA | photo: Adéla Havelková

BEARDS AND MOUSTACHES OF ALL SHAPES AND SIZES ARE BACK IN FASHION AND THEIR POPULARITY HAS SEEN THE RETURN OF THE TRADITIONAL MEN’S BARBER SHOP. IN ADDITION TO THE AESTHETIC CONCERNS THAT DRIVE MEN TO SEEK PROFESSIONAL CARE FOR THEIR WELL-TENDED FACIAL HAIR, THE BARBER SHOP IS SOUGHT OUT AS A PLACE OF REFUGE FROM EVERYDAY STRESS WHERE MEN CAN RELAX IN A DISTINCTLY MALE ENVIRONMENT. IN CURRENT BUSY AND STRESSFUL TIMES IT IS NOT SURPRISING THAT THE BARBER SHOP IS MAKING A COMEBACK. One such barber shop is the recently opened Pepe’s Barbershop in Prague’s Holešovice suburb, the result of years of planning by the shop’s owner José. The shop was furbished and decorated on the basis of José’s own design with the help of the talented architect Marcela Boučková. In addition to his custom-made barber chairs José had commissioned most of the fittings for his shop from an artisan. The shop’s unique grey wall, created by layering different shades of grey, took a number of weeks to make. The goal of Pepe’s Barbershop is to offer a modern take on an old craft, and to this end José uses classic Czech products such as the aftershave Alpa, well loved by our great-grandfathers. Men like returning to their favourite barber shop for the more frequent trimming of their treasured facial hair or the less frequent cutting of their crowning mop. Just like any other barber shop, Pepe’s offers a range of treatments: from a quick adjustment with clippers to a longer trim and a scalp massage, or a shave that involves the warming of facial hair with a hot towel followed by a decadent aftershave treatment, which can be enjoyed while ►

sipping good whiskey. In this manner the act of grooming can become a pleasant and relaxing experience instead of a bothersome necessity. More on: www.pepesbarbershop.cz â&#x2013; WATCH THE BACKSTAGE VIDEO FROM THE PHOTO SHOOT AT: www.soffamag.com/youtube TOP: The barbershop experience offers a variety of treatments. You can have your face steamed with a hot towel, which softens facial hair and makes it easier to shave, have your scalp massaged, or get a balm applied to your beard or wax to your moustache. But the traditional service of getting a clean shave with a straight razor takes courage and most importantly great faith in your barber, and that is exactly where a glass of fine spirits comes in handy.

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BOTTOM: The barberâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s counter was custom-made from planks of larch, which were sanded back by JosĂŠ himself. The whole interior embodies both modern and traditional elements.

SHAVING BRUSH

OLD RAZORS

BRUSH FOR DUSTING

BOTTOM AND LEFT: JosĂŠ uses a contouring razor to finish all of his haircuts. This makes the shape of the hairstyle more refined than if he used clippers alone, and allows him to highlight the contours of individual haircuts, beards and moustaches. Men who visit his shop can have their scalp and facial hair styled in a variety of looks, be it a seemingly wild, bushy beard, a carefree stubble or a well-waxed handlebar moustache.

T EC H N O LO GY Innovative GIF box

CU BR ICO – H E A I N ´T N O S Q UA R E text: Václav Pavlečka | illustration: Lenka Hlaváčová styling: SOFFA | photo: Adéla Havelková

HE IS THE BEST FRIEND AT YOUR PARTY. WE CALL HIM CUBRICO AND HE IS NO SQUARE. WELL, IN FACT, HE IS A CUBE. A VIDEOCUBE THAT ENABLES PEOPLE TO SHARE THEIR BEST MOMENTS FROM ANY PARTY, GATHERING OR CELEBRATION. HE LOVES TO POST FUNNY VISUALS TO YOUR FRIENDS ON SOCIAL MEDIA. SO STEP A LITTLE CLOSER AND SAY HI TO CUBRICO! CUBRICO ARRIVES AT YOUR EVENT WITH NO MANUAL OR HUMAN SUPERVISION. YOU JUST PLUG HIM IN, TOUCH THE SCREEN, FOLLOW THE SIMPLE INSTRUCTIONS AND YOU ARE READY ‘TO CUBE’. CUBRICO CREATES THE IDEAL LIGHTING SET-UP WITH HIS POWERFUL LED STRIPS, THEN TAKES A SHORT MOVIE, EDITS IT, CREATES AN ENDLESS FUNLOOP AND LETS YOU POST IT AS A GIF TO YOUR FAVOURITE SOCIAL NETWORK OR SEND TO YOUR FRIENDS BY EMAIL. IF IT SOUNDS TOO TECHIE, JUST CHECK OUT THE IMAGES. AS WE SAID, HE AIN´T NO SQUARE! We were wondering how the whole Cubrico idea started (and we really fancied having a few cool video loops to share with our friends), so we packed our camera and one of the SOFFA Magazine editors and headed to the lab where the Cubrico idea was born – to ČVUT, the Czech Technical University. We were warmly welcomed by Cubrico´s chief engineer Stanislav Vítek, one of the brilliant ČVUT brains, who showed us a few early prototypes and introduced us to the rest of the Cubrico team. “We tried putting several cameras in one device and played with countless lenses and processors until we combined our components… and well... hacked them to work together,” says Stanislav modestly as he overlooks the fact that he and his team spent countless months ►

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programming, testing, tweaking and playing with molten iron. Picture sharpness and brightness and overall colour grading were tweaked by Filip Černý, a young audiovisual geek who is also the Cubrico team leader. Next to the early wooden prototypes stands Jakub Stedina, the main designer of the beautifully-shaped Cubrico, which is made from an alloy. “The result is what you can see here,” says Jakub while pointing to the other part of the room where the final Cubrico stands. “It creates a beautiful GIF loop and has a friendly face that welcomes you to play with it,” Jakub adds. “Stay tuned because this tech toy is soon to spread from the Czech Republic to Europe and beyond,” adds Václav Pavlečka, an ideas man and Cubrico’s inventor. ■

T R A DI T I O N S Revolving rituals

T HE SO U RCE O F O U R T R A DI T I O N S text: Martin Sova | styling: Alžběta Jungrová & SOFFA photo: Alžběta Jungrová

THEY ARE THE TRADITIONS WE HAVE SET ASIDE FOR SPECIFIC TIMES OF THE YEAR AND SOMETIMES EVEN FOR A SPECIFIC DATE. THEY HELP US TO NOT ONLY KEEP A LIVING CONNECTION TO THE GENERATIONS THAT CAME BEFORE US, BUT ALSO TO TAKE A MOMENT OUT OF THE EVERYDAY BUSSLE AND JOIN EVENTS THAT ARE OUT OF THE ORDINARY AND MAGICAL AND SOMETIMES EVEN DIFFICULT TO EXPLAIN RATIONALLY. WHILE SOME OF THESE CUSTOMS ARE COMMON TO THE WHOLE OF EUROPE, THE SPECIFICS OF OTHERS VARY FROM REGION TO REGION. Searching for the origins of our customs makes for interesting research that requires some deep learning and a good dose of fantasy. But even this combination cannot guarantee that you will find the true origins of a particular custom. The history of Europe was primarily influenced by Christianity, which adopted many of the existing pagan customs. Some of the traditions go far in time to days when central Europe was inhabited by Celtic tribes, so it is difficult to determine whether our customs have Christian or earlier roots. When groups of boys set out in early January to walk around town dressed as the Three Wise Men – Caspar, Melchior and Balthazar – to bless households and receive small gifts in return, one might assume a clear link to the Biblical story of the birth of Christ. In the Bible, however, the three wise men appear only as the Magi who arrived from the East to pay homage to the infant Jesus; it makes no mention of their names. In reality the letters and symbols C † M † B †, written by carollers in sainted chalk above entrance doors, represent the blessing Christus mansionem benedicat (May Christ bless this home), not the initials of the three wise men. This is but one of many misconceptions of the origins of our traditions that have come to pass as truth. ■

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THREE KINGSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; DAY / JANUARY 6 Groups of three boys dressed in long white shirts and wearing kingsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; crowns on their heads walk through villages and towns singing carols. They visit different homes and bless them with sainted chalk by writing the letters C+M+B over the entrance, and for this they are rewarded with sweets and small presents. The tradition is connected with the Christian feast day of Epiphany and reminds us of the three wise men who brought gifts of gold, frankincense and myrrh to the infant Jesus. The symbols written above the doors are meant to protect the home with the following blessing: Christus mansionem benedicat, or May Christ bless this home.

CARNIVAL / JANUARY, FEBRUARY Carnival is celebrated across the whole of Europe, and the Czech version known as “masopust” or “fašank” falls into the period between the Three Kings’ Day and Ash Wednesday. The three-day festival is a time to let loose and be merry, a time for debauched feasting, foolery, loosening of social rules and colourful processions with handmade masks. The processions are a sight and sound to behold: happy and frightening figures move to the sound of music and general noise – bears and their keepers, straw men, angels and the grim reaper himself. It is a time when men freely dress up as women and women as men.

SLAUGHTERING / JANUARY, FEBRUARY Feeding a pig through the winter was demanding and costly for our ancestors, and so they learned that it was more practical to kill the pig partway through the winter and eat it through the rest of the bitter season. Still practiced today, slaughtering is an all-day affair requiring the involvement of many people from the early morning. A lot of hard liquor is consumed while different helpers cook boiled pork and goulash, sear bacon, prepare white and black pudding and make sausages. Every part of the animal is utilised, meat, innards and even the blood, which is used to make hearty blood soup with groats.

EASTER / MARCH, APRIL For the Czech people Easter brings together religious festivities that commemorate the crucifixion of Christ and celebrate his resurrection, the welcoming of spring, and traditional celebrations of rebirth, renewal and fertility, which have pre-Christian roots. A unique element of Easter celebrations found in the Czech Republic is the practice of boys going door to door reciting an Easter carol and whipping girls with a whip woven from young branches of the willow tree. This is supposed to ensure that the girls will remain youthfuland beautiful throughout the year. In return the boys receive decorated eggs and often a shot (or two) of spirits.

FIRST DAY OF MAY / MAY One of the reasons why the Czechs have been reluctant to embrace Valentine’s Day is that for them love is inextricably linked to May Day, also known as the ‘day of those in love.’ The origin of this is believed to go back to the time of the Celts who on the eve of May Day celebrated Walpurgis Night and with it fertility. The significance of May Day as the day of lovers was further enshrined in the national psyche by the romantic poem May written in 1836 by the Czech poet Karel Hynek Mácha. His statue on Prague’s Petřín Hill has become a place of annual May Day pilgrimage when lovers come to kiss under the cherry blossoms.

FISH HARVESTING / SEPTEMBER, OCTOBER, NOVEMBER One of the greatest treasures the Czechs inherited from the Middle Ages are their fishponds. Dating back to the 12th century, fishponds have become an iconic element of the rural landscape. In the more distant past eating fish was mostly reserved for the lent period, but in the 17th century the carp landed on the Christmas Eve menu. To supply sufficient amounts of carp for the Christmas feast, fishermen drain the ponds in autumn, catch the fish and place them in nurseries. From there the carp are transferred into vats which in December fill the streets of Czech towns, and where people purchase them, often live, for their Christmas Eve table.

DI Y PRO J EC T Designer armoire

WAR D RO BE A S A H O M E G A L L ERY text: Adéla Kudrnová | design and styling: Lenka Hlaváčová photo: Lina Németh

HAVE YOU EVER NOTICED THAT THE BEST MECHANIC IN TOWN DRIVES A BOMB? AND THE BEST HAIRSTYLIST NEEDS A HAIRCUT? AND SO IT GOES FOR PROFESSIONALS WHO ARE TOO BUSY FOR WORK IN THEIR ‘OWN BACK YARDS’. THE SAME GOES FOR OUR DESIGNER LENKA WHO HAD TO PUT UP FAR TOO LONG WITH AN UGLY ALBEIT FUNCTIONAL WARDROBE. BUT IN THE END SHE FOUND THE TIME TO TRANSFORM HER OLD WARDROBE INTO A FABULOUS HOME GALLERY WITH UNIQUE ELEMENTS INCLUDING A LEATHER HANDLE AND A FUNKY POCKET ORGANISER. LET YOURSELF BE INSPIRED! DIFFICULTY LEVEL: easy TIME: two days including drying time WHAT YOU NEED: soapy water sponge screwdriver wood filler (optional) paint for wood and metal painting equipment

STEPS: Wash the wardrobe thoroughly to remove all dirt and grease stains. Remove metal fixings such as handles, and if you have decided to replace them with a leather handle as we have, fill in screw holes with wood filler so they are not an eyesore later on. Paint the wardrobe with a base coat and once dry, paint it with two to three coats of your chosen colour. While you are waiting for the paint to dry, start looking through your pictures and photos, or get working on the pocket organiser. For the leather handle cut out a strip at least 2.5 cm wide. If you want a classic-looking ►

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leather brass or coppercoloured screws scissors 4 Ă&#x2014; A4 sheets of grey felt thread sewing machine needle pictures and photos double-sided tape

handle, just in leather form, then place the leather strip in a vertical position and screw both ends into place, making sure they are straight. Or fold the leather strip in half and screw the resulting tab to the door through the folded ends. Now make the felt pocket organiser from four A4 sheets of grey felt. Sew two of the sheets together vertically; these will form the back of the organiser. The other two sheets will form the pockets, so cut them along the long side depending on how deep you want your pockets. Next sew the pockets along the bottom and sides onto the back of the organiser. Using the screws fix all four corners of the organiser to the wardrobe. Finally, cut out inspiring photos and pictures from old magazines, books or catalogues and attach them to the wardrobe with double-sided tape. And you can of course add your own creations! TIP: Using the same technique as you used for the door handle you can make hooks for hanging necklaces and pendants. â&#x2013;

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EDITORIAL STAFF

CONTRIBUTORS

Adéla Kudrnová I editor in chief adela@soffamag.com Lenka Hlaváčová I art director & designer lenka@soffamag.com Yasmin Keshmiri Hejduk I creative editor yasmin@soffamag.com Lina Németh I photographer lina@soffamag.com Adéla Havelková I photographer & graphic designer adela.h@soffamag.com Antonín Cífka I production manager antonin@soffamag.com Sára Němečková I production manager & editor sara@soffamag.com Terézia Bělčáková I marketing & PR terezia@soffamag.com Naďa Fidrmucová I marketing & PR nada@soffamag.com Helena Novotná I editor & distribution helena@soffamag.com

THE WINNERS FROM THE FEBRUARY ISSUE: SYN V POHYBU: Michaela Maxová BARBER SHOP: Jana Morávková PUBLISHER: SOFFA, s.r.o. Drtinova 557/10 150 00 Praha 5 www.soffamag.com IČ: 03055671 / DIČ: CZ03055671 registration: MK ČR E 21947, ISSN 2336-5943 Volume 14 published on 13 April 2016

Ingrid Martonova I English translation Peter Stannard I English revision & proofreading CONTACT www.soffamag.com info@soffamag.com +420 775 555 035 +420 777 623 346 DISTRIBUTION Would you like to become a SOFFA dealer? Email us stockist@soffamag.com PRINT: H.R.G. spol. s r.o. Svitavská 1203, 570 01 Litomyšl PRINTED ON FEDRIGONI PAPERS: COVER: Materica Gesso 250 g/m2 INNER PAGES: Arcoprint Milk White 120 g/m2

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SOFFA 14 IS PRINTED! DO YOU LIKE THE ONLINE TEASER OF SOFFA? NOW, YOU CAN HAVE THE VOLUME IN PAPER AS WELL. BUY IT AT OUR SHOP BY SOFFA: SHOP.SOFFAMAG.COM Print: Pages: Size: Origin: Language: Edition:

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PRINTED SOFFA

Dedicated to the Traditions

7â&#x201A;¬ SOFFA 14 IS PRINTED! DO YOU LIKE THE ONLINE TEASER OF SOFFA? NOW, YOU CAN HAVE THE VOLUME IN PAPER AS WELL. BUY IT AT OUR SHOP BY SOFFA: SHOP.SOFFAMAG.COM

Print: Pages: Size: Origin: Language: Edition:

offset-printed and perfect bound, full colour on high-quality 140 gsm paper 160 A4 Prague, Czech Republic English 1000 copies

WWW.SHOP.SOFFAMAG.COM

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