SOFFA 23 / BEAUTY, English edition by SOFFA

SOFFA

design

food

people

travel

VOLUME | 23

life

SOFFA

design

food

people

travel

life

ISSUE THEME: BEAUTY Ponder for a moment why beauty is so important to us. The ephemeral and subjective concept of beauty awakens a vast range of emotions, and SOFFA 23 is certain to awaken something beautiful in you!

Contents

SOFFA ISSUE 23 IS DEDICATED TO

BEAUTY Since everyone perceives beauty differently, we have blended a colourful cocktail of stories with something for everyone. Whether you believe that beauty lies in simplicity, or that it equals pain, we think you will find something in this issue that rings true to you. We begin with the history of the beauty ideal, accompanied by Barbora Idesová’s original illustrations, and follow with a spectacular interplay between photography and painting in an essay by the photographer Alžběta Jungrová, the painter Martin Krajc and the make-up artist Margita Skřenková. We also show that beauty ‘blemishes’ have their analogies in nature, where they are seen as anything but imperfect. When thinking about a city with incredible architecture and an unsurpassed atmosphere Vienna tops our charts, and we are confident that our travel story will help you fall in love with the beautiful city. Our modern fashion story by Michaela Karásek Čejková is inspired by the old Greek myth of the beautiful Narcissus, who fell in love with his own reflection. And to prove that beauty often hides in the unexpected, look to our stunning macro images of glass shards. The issue also touches on deeper themes of beauty and society’s perceptions of trans and genderqueer persons. Lastly, we introduce Olga Stráníková and her tender photographs. While perusing this issue we are sure you will exclaim at least a few times: ‘Now that is beautiful!’

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Welcome

WITH ALL OUR HEARTS I am proud of my work and my team. It is not often you get to work with people who share your values and who love their work to boot. When in the spirit of this issue I thought about what makes my life beautiful, I came up with this: I am surrounded by people who live and work with all their hearts and I get to create beautiful and hopefully even valuable things. To me there is nothing better than this! And so it was easy for me and the team to say ‘yes’ when we were approached by the organisation Loono to become ambassadors of their campaign #zijessrdcem [Your Heart For Life], which is teaching people across Czechia how to look after their hearts and prevent cardiovascular disease. We are keenly aware that our modern lifestyle is not very kind to our hearts. The daily pressure and stress of deadlines, too little physical exercise, too many hours in front of the computer, too much rushing about. Most of us don’t stop to think whether we are doing enough to keep our hearts strong and healthy. The #zijessrdcem campaign is helping us to do just that, and I hope it will help to inspire you as well! Allow yourself to rest for a moment and savour our new issue, full of sustenance for the heart and soul: beautiful people, beautiful places, beautiful interiors, beautiful stories and all of it printed on beautiful paper!

Adéla Kudrnová | editor in chief

PS: On the next page read about how some of our editorial team live with all their hearts. To learn more about the #zijessrdcem campaign, visit www.loono.cz.

HEART ‘HEART IS LOVE, PASSION AND EMOTION, THE PULSATING ENERGY FOR EVERYTHING I LOVE.’ Tereza, editor | ‘HEART FOR ME IS LIFE ITSELF, BECAUSE A BODY WITHOUT A HEART IS LIKE A CAR WITHOUT A MOTOR.’ Max, production manager | ‘I LIVE WITH ALL MY HEART BECAUSE I CAN’T LIVE ANY OTHER WAY, LITERALLY AND FIGURATIVELY.’ Hanka, editor | ‘TO ME THE HEART IS AN INDICATOR OF WHETHER THINGS ARE AS THEY SHOULD BE – A KIND OF A PERSONAL CENTRE OF INTUITION.’ Lenka, art director | ‘FOR US LIVING WITH ALL OUR HEARTS IS TAKING THE PATH LESS TRAVELLED AND EMBRASING THE EXPERIENCE.’ Ingrid and Peter, English translation and editing

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Illustration

BEAUTY THROUGH TIME ALTHOUGH THE NOTION OF BEAUTY IS RELATIVE, THROUGHOUT HISTORY PEOPLE HAVE BEEN TRYING TO ACHIEVE COMMONLY HELD IDEALS OF BEAUTY. text: Hana Švolbová | illustration: Barbora Idesová

CAN PEOPLE ACROSS THE GLOBE AGREE ON WHAT IS BEAUTIFUL? AS YOU PROBABLY GUESS, NOT LIKELY. IN A RECENT EXPERIMENT A MULTICULTURAL GROUP OF GRAPHIC ARTISTS WAS ASKED TO TOUCH UP AN IMAGE OF A WOMAN SO THAT IT REPRESENTS THE IDEAL OF BEAUTY IN THEIR HOME COUNTRY. EACH ARTIST ALTERED THE WOMAN’S FIGURE, THE COLOUR OF HER COMPLEXION, AND THE COLOUR AND LENGTH OF HER HAIR. THE VARIETY OF RESULTING BEAUTIES SHOWS THAT WHILE THERE MAY BE A NATIONAL IDEAL, THE NOTION OF BEAUTY VARIES ACROSS THE GLOBE. THE SAME CAN BE SAID OF BEAUTY THROUGH TIME, AS TRENDS FROM DIFFERENT HISTORICAL ERAS OFTEN COMPETE. SOME COME AND GO, WHILE OTHERS ARE HERE TO STAY.

Throughout history the notion of what is beautiful has been influenced by the aesthetics of a given era and the general state of wellbeing. In times of war, poverty and famine, aesthetics valued fuller forms. In contrast, in periods of political stability and prosperity, slim figures were preferred. Even in times of prosperity the quest for ideal beauty has not been for everyone, as it has always depended on wealth and the potential for self-realisation. Period trends have also reflected the artistic movement of the day: the Gothic period featured slim lines and elongated, pointy forms, while the Baroque was richly adorned and plump. Prior to the twentieth century, the ideal of beauty changed relatively slowly. The last century ushered in a time of rapidly changing norms of beauty, and each decade became defined by specific standards and icons. The most fundamental changes came in the gradual revealing of the human body, the removal of the many layers of clothing, and the growing popularity of sport and recreation. Some decades celebrated thin, almost boy-like female figures (the 1920s, 1960s and 1990s), while other decades saluted fuller figures (the beginning and end of the century and the 1950s). Throughout the ages and all around the world women and men have been ‘improving’ their appearance to achieve the ideal of beauty. One of the best known examples is the use of the corset, a garment worn to create an artificially small waist and accentuated hips and breasts. Dominant in Victorian England, the corset was popular as late as the 1950s, and it has even made a comeback with pin-up and burlesque retro fashion. The Rococo period preferred tall wigs and high-heeled shoes for men, which gave the wearer an appearance of a taller stature, and women and men of the noble classes favoured white complexion with rosy cheeks. The luxury of changing the tone of one’s complexion has today become commonplace, though for a number of years the European beauty ideal has favoured tanned skin – a sign of health and vitality. ►

SLENDERNESS Historical art tells us that a slender figure was the ideal of beauty as early as ancient Egypt and ancient China, and that it influenced the European aesthetic during the Gothic period. A narrow waist and shoulders told the world that one did not have to toil in the fields. In the 1920s slenderness became popular as a reaction to the wide skirts and broad hips of the preceding era, and in the straight, emancipated designs of the period, womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s curves became imperceptible. The fas-hion industry of the 1960s and 1990s was ruled by an ideal that was often too thin and unhealthy, and garnered many critics. Slenderness continues to define the beauty ideal in many parts of the world, thanks in great part to the development of sport and recreation and a growing interest in a healthy lifestyle.

FERTILITY In Czechia the idea of fertility is inextricably linked to the 25,000-year-old clay statue of the Venus of Dolní Věstonice. Possibly a representation of a mother goddess, the statue has exceptionally large breasts and hips that symbolise the prerequisites for successful reproduction. The ideal of fertility has been rooted in the human psyche since time immemorial. Full curves with a round belly are depicted in ancient Greek and Roman statues and in Renaissance paintings, and in the Baroque period they became more voluptuous still. In some cultures around the world a full figure and a statuesque body are prized to this day. Since fertility is not only a woman’s domain, many cultures celebrate the ideal by enhancing depictions of male reproductive parts as symbols of virility.

FEMININITY The hourglass shape â&#x20AC;&#x201C; with its narrow waist and full breasts and hips â&#x20AC;&#x201C; was iconic even in times when fashion favoured slenderness, partly due to the timeless popularity of the fertility ideal. In the modern era, marked by efforts to elevate women from the status of the weaker sex, the ideal of femininity has been raised to new heights. Victorian England highlighted womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s curves, aided by the use of corsets and layered skirts. In the 1950s the feminine ideal found its embodiment in the actress Marilyn Monroe, whose 90-60-90 figure helped define feminine perfection. More recently, countering the popularity of the athletic supermodels of the 1980s and 1990s, and the extremely thin models that followed, the hourglass figure is becoming popular once again. 14

MASCULINITY While it may appear that beauty and fashion trends focus only on women, ideals of male beauty are also subject to changing tastes. While the ideal of a strapping, muscular male figure may be timeless, men’s hairstyles, facial hair and clothing go in and out of fashion. When a few years ago the term ‘metrosexual’ was coined, it seemed that men had never been more effeminate. Yet a glance into history and across cultures reveals that men have always paid attention to their appearance. Ancient Egyptians favoured make-up and perfumed oils, ancient Greeks and Romans focussed on their bodies, Louis XIV’s male courtiers paraded around in tall wigs and high-heeled shoes, and men in traditional cultures have always adorned themselves with tattoos, body paint and headdresses.

PERFECTION Humans are imperfect creatures, and as such we are obsessed with symmetry and ideal proportions. Can a perfect face be considered beautiful? In general, faces thought to be beautiful by a particular ethnic group, culture or nation tend towards perfect facial symmetry. In the past â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;perfectionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; was achieved with the help of fashion accessories, make-up, wigs and complex constructions hidden beneath the clothes. In more recent times people have looked to cosmetic surgery to achieve their idea of the perfect face and body. Paradoxically, with the growing popularity of cosmetic interventions, we no longer perceive an unnaturally perfect face as beautiful. Indeed, there is beauty in our unique imperfections. 16

Illustration

Through the ages the quest for beauty has also led to bodily deformation. Chinese women, aiming for small, lotus-shaped feet, succumbed for centuries to the very painful process of foot binding. And the adage ‘beauty is pain’ continues to rule to this day. To be sure, body deformation is not only about beauty. The elongated necks of Kayan women in Myanmar and northern Thailand, the wooden and clay plates inserted into the lips of some African and Amazonian groups, the tattooing of Maori men, and the scarring of the Surma people of Ethiopia – all of these beauty elements also serve as a form of protection or an expression of one’s wealth, status or maturity. Today there are growing numbers of people who undergo cosmetic surgery in their quest for the ideal. Gone are the days when most cosmetic surgeries focussed on an oversized nose or an embarrassing birthmark – today it is possible to submit essentially any part of the body to the surgical altar of perfection. This brings us back to the cultural variety of beauty, for where some women choose to have fat removed from their hips and derriere, elsewhere in the world they have them artificially enhanced. Yet there is one theme that connects across many cultures – our quest for eternal youth. Longing to remain young, we are willing to put up with bruising under the eyes or temporary facial muscle paralysis. Like it or not, we pay a high price in fulfilling our desire to be beautiful. ■

ILLUSTRATOR

BARBORA IDESOVÁ Barbora is an independent illustrator who likes to see her work on utilitarian items that bring people joy. She creates editorial and commercial illustrations that are inspired by nature, meditation, good friends and other kind creatures. Beings from Barbora’s own mythology also feature in her work, including goddesses, god-like creatures, woodland nymphs and other mythological entities. Endowed with ordinary human qualities, these mythological beings appear in strangely familiar dreamy scenes full of symbolic elements that awaken our inner child and more. www.barboraidesova.com 17

Travel

HALLO WIEN JOIN US ON A JOURNEY TO THE CITY OF WALTZ, KLIMT AND THE SACHERTORTE, A CITY REPLETE WITH BEAUTIFUL ANTIQUE SHOPS AND RESIDENTIAL COMPLEXES WELL AHEAD OF THEIR TIME. text: Helena Novotnรก | photo: Michaela Karรกsek ฤ ejkovรก

Travel

VIENNA HAS A LOT IN COMMON WITH PRAGUE, WHERE THE SOFFA MAGAZINE ORIGINATES – AFTER ALL, THE MANY CZECH NAMES ON VIENNESE SHOPFRONTS INDICATE OUR COMMON HISTORY. THE SOFFA TEAM VISITS VIENNA OFTEN, BUT THIS TIME WE HAVE GONE IN SEARCH OF PLACES LESS WELL KNOWN. THERE WAS THE OBLIGATORY SACHERTORTE AND A TRIP TO THE RESPLENDENT HUNDERTWASSERHAUS, BUT WE ALSO WENT IN SEARCH OF LESSER KNOWN CAFES AND FASCINATING RESIDENTIAL COMPLEXES SADLY OVERSHADOWED BY VIENNA’S ABUNDANT PALACES.

For centuries Vienna was the seat of the Habsburg Monarchy and later the centre of the Austro-Hungarian Empire. The city enjoyed its heyday during the reign of the Empress Maria Theresa, whose grand memorial between the Natural History and the Art History Museums is a must see. The Habsburg Monarchy’s imprint on the city can still be felt today: the expansive riding halls, royal gardens and gleaming white palaces, so grand they evoke a feeling of personal insignificance. Although Vienna was created mainly in the Baroque and Art Nouveau eras, one of the city’s main features is the Gothic St. Stephen’s Cathedral, called lovingly Steffl by the locals. The cathedral is a notional reference point not only for its great height – the southern tower reaches an impressive 137 metres and makes the cathedral one of the tallest points on Vienna’s panorama – but also for its roof, covered in thousands of coloured glazed tiles that have been arranged in a striking pattern. The decorative roof is so iconic it does not matter that it is not the original roof, which was damaged at the end of the Second World War. The cathedral is located next to the famous Graben street. Nearby await many of the famous Viennese cafés and pastry shops, renowned for the Sachertorte that has been perfected over two centuries of baking. One of the famous cafés is Aida, whose outlets grace every other corner in Vienna. There were eleven outlets before the Second World War, and today the chain boasts an impressive forty. From a distance the Aida cafés are unmistakable by their pink neon logo, and pastel pink also features in ► LEFT: The café and pastry shop Aida is recognisable for its pink signage, plastic furniture and a display case full of typical Austrian pastries. Although nothing has changed in Aida over the years, new outlets of this popular cafe keep popping up, and not only in Austria – franchises have opened in Canada, Croatia and Saudi Arabia.

Travel

the interior, from the fit-out to the employee uniforms and the local sweet bestseller – the Punschkrapferl [punch cake]. Aida was established in the first half of the twentieth century by the Czech native Josef Prousek, and today the chain is owned by the fourth generation of the Prousek family. Not far from St. Stephen’s Cathedral stands the famous café Demel, which has stood in the same spot since 1786. During the height of its glory the café prided itself for being the k.u.k. hofzuckerbäcker, or the imperial and royal confectioner. The Neo-Baroque interior is full of perfectly presented cake stands with not only the ubiquitous Sachertorte, but also chocolate cat tongues and the local delicacy – candied violets. When you have had your fill of exquisite cakes, it is worth a wander to the back of the café to peek through the glass into the kitchen, where the Demel confectionary is made. Be warned, it is hard to pull yourself away from the giant apple strudels on display. If you want to know what else the Viennese eat besides Sachertorte and strudel, we recommend a place with ‘indescribably good’ open-faced sandwiches. Indescribably good is the motto of the Trzesniewski snack bar hidden around the corner from Graben street. When in 1902 Franciszek Trzesniewski from Krakow established the snack bar, he could not have imagined its popularity more than a century later. The snack bar is sought out by locals and tourists for its sandwiches, the so-called canapés with spreads. There are more than two dozen varieties and most have not changed over the years. A canapé must be followed with a small beer, an eighth of a litre known locally as Pfiff – a whistle. Our last tip for a place where gastronomy meets history resembles a city jungle – quite literally. The long greenhouse built in 1901 is found in the royal gardens and is today divided into three parts. In the centre of the greenhouse is a restaurant tellingly called the Palmarium, where diners sit among gigantic palms and other plants that creep along the building’s steel frame to the glass ceiling. While the right side of the greenhouse is ►

LEFT: When on Vienna’s Graben street you must turn the corner towards the famous Trzesniewski snack bar. Although locals find their tongues twisted over the name of this popular eatery, the tastes and smells hiding inside make the oral gymnastics worthwhile. There is always time for a couple of sandwiches and a small beer. NEXT SPREAD: The architect Otto Wagner was one of the foremost representatives of the Viennese Art Nouveau scene. In addition to the Church of St. Leopold, Wagner designed several residential homes and villas, the Vienna Postal Savings Bank building and the Karlsplatz metropolitan railway station. The Church at Steinhof is one of the most important sacral Art Nouveau buildings.

Travel

used by the city in its classic sense of the word, the left side is home to hundreds of butterflies. The butterflies fly freely amidst the tropical plants and over a small pond, where visitors can wander and admire their fragile beauty. Traditional Viennese coffee houses are more of a cultural than a coffee experience. For a good cup of coffee it is best to head elsewhere, and Vienna has several places where phrases like ‘select coffee’ and ‘drip’ will not raise an eyebrow. One of these is the café Phil, which has brought a bit of Berlin into Vienna’s city centre, and where you can drop in from morning until late afternoon. The café also functions as a bookshop and about half of its titles are in English, covering photography, art and design. Thanks to the sectioned interior and retro furniture you will feel as though you are in someone’s living room, the only difference being that at Phil’s you can buy any part of the interior. When you look more closely you will find that everything has a label, including the chair on which you are sitting! Where to stay when visiting Vienna? The city offers an inexhaustible supply of Airbnb options, hostels and traditional hotels. One of these is Hotel Altstadt Vienna, where all 45 rooms are furnished in an original and distinctive style. Guests will not be surprised that the hotel’s founder Otto E. Wiesenthal is an art aficionado and art collector, and that he collaborated on the design with a range of architects and designers. The hotel is renowned not only for its gorgeous interior, but also for the most opulent breakfasts you can imagine. Hotel Altstadt is located near Burggasse, a long street lined with shopping outlets, bistros and several antique shops. The Irenaeus Kraus antique shop stands out from the rest, featuring more than a thousand educational posters, maps, advertising signs, herbarium pages and stuffed animals or their skeletons. This cabinet of school curiosities is literally filled from floor to ceiling, housing mostly objects from the twentieth century, though there are older specimens on offer. And although it seems absolutely impossible, the owner Christoph Resinger knows exactly where everything is. ► RIGHT AND NEXT SPREAD: To dine amidst palms and then wander amongst hundreds of tropical butterflies – a splendid idea for a late morning in Vienna. The stunning Art Nouveau greenhouse, which houses a restaurant and a butterfly sanctuary, is located in the Hofburg Gardens between the Albertina Museum and the Austrian National Library. The greenhouse was closed for many years and fell into disrepair. It was reopened in 1998 after a renovation and today offers a spectacular sensory experience. The air temperature is kept at a constant 27 degrees and humidity at 80 per cent, making it an ideal environment for colourful butterflies and tropical plants.

Travel

If vintage posters and school aids are not up your alley, then head for Die Glasfabrik [Glass Factory]. Housed in a former factory for glass bending, Die Glasfabrik is a paradise for anyone who loves an object with a good story. As would be expected there are many glass objects on offer, but there is also an endless supply of other fascinating antiques. The two halls that make up the old factory are filled to the brim with antique furniture, glass chandeliers, metal retro lamps, statues, boxes of vinyl records, old books and anything else you might imagine. The shop does not specialise in a specific period, so you will find a seventeenth century chandelier next to a record player from the 1970s. It is like a museum in which every displayed object can be bought and taken home. Who can resist? Although Vienna carries the imprint of many architectural styles, Art Nouveau is particularly prominent. Towards the end of the nineteenth century Vienna became the centre of Art Nouveau, an artistic style that spread from Austria to neighbouring countries. Vienna’s most iconic Art Nouveau building is an exhibition pavilion designed by the architect Joseph Maria Olbrich – the famous Secession Building with its stunning dome covered by gilt laurel leaves. On the ground level the building houses modern art exhibitions, while the basement is dedicated to the Beethoven Frieze, a masterpiece of the great Art Nouveau painter Gustav Klimt. A lesser-known Art Nouveau gem is the Church of St. Leopold, also known as the Kirche am Steinhof [Church at Steinhof]. The church was built by the architect Otto Wagner at the beginning of the twentieth century as part of a complex for patients with psychological and pulmonary ailments. Just like Olbrich’s famous Secession Building, the exterior of the church draws attention with its golden dome. On the interior the church is interesting in that it has almost no sharp edges nor any visible crucifixes, ► PREVIOUS SPREAD: The display window of the mysteriously named Irenaeus Kraus antique shop is inviting to some passersby and less so to others. It is full of stuffed animals, animal skeletons and posters with detailed drawings from botany and zoology – all for sale. It is hard to say if it is better to visit Die Glasfabrik to look for something specific, or if it is better to simply browse. Either way you are likely to lose track of time among the countless tables, chandeliers and hundreds of other inviting objects. LEFT: Colours, curves and all that challenges the uniformity of conventional housing – Friedensreich Hundertwasser was not afraid to go outside the norm in reaching his dream of living in harmony with nature. Today Hundertwasserhaus is his most famous work.

Travel

and the area designated for the clergy can be fully separated. The church also boasts several emergency exits. Today Steinhof serves as a general hospital and the church holds regular services. Vienna’s architectural development did not stop with Art Nouveau and twentieth century modernist architecture. Indeed, several distinctive residential complexes created in the last thirty years are particularly noteworthy. They may not be on the itinerary of a typical Vienna tourist guide, but for architecture fans they are a must-see. The first example is that of the Gasometres, four massive cylindrical gas tanks built at the end of the nineteenth century. When in the 1980s the city converted to natural gas, the four industrial structures became obsolete. They were left abandoned until 1999, when work began to transform them into multifunctional complexes. Today each tank houses apartments in the top part, offices in the middle, and the ground levels feature a shopping centre, a cinema and one of the largest concert venues in Austria. The only original elements of the cylinders are the brick exteriors – the four interiors were entrusted to the hands of four architects. The first was designed by the French architect Jean Nouvel, the second by the Viennese studio Coop Himmelblau, the third was the work of the Austrian architect Manfred Wehdorn and the fourth the product of the Austrian architect Wilhelm Holzbauer. The gas tanks are an impressive example of successful revitalisation of abandoned industrial buildings. Another unique residential complex is a few years older, a lot more colourful and also much better known. Hundertwasserhaus is today one of Vienna’s main architectural attractions, but not every visitor is aware that it was conceived as social housing. The complex was designed by Friedensreich Hundertwasser, an Austrian architect and artist who was inspired by the organic architecture of Antoni Gaudí and by Viennese Art Nouveau, and who dreamed of creating architecture that would live in harmony with people and nature. His Hundertwasserhaus was completed in 1985 and is a perfect embodiment of the philosophy of its creator who strongly opposed the straight line and any ►

PREVIOUS SPREAD: The red brick facade is the only original feature of the four gas tanks built at the end of the nineteenth century according to a design by Franz Kapaun. The seventy-metres tall cylinders have a diameter of some sixty metres. The buildings are interconnected by bridges, creating a small city within Vienna’s Simmering. LEFT: Every room in the Hotel Altstadt Vienna has its distinctive, original interior with furnishings from famous designers. In one of the hotel’s many apartments you can relax in the famous Egg chair from Arne Jacobsen.

Travel

form of standardisation. This explains the brightly coloured facade, the unevenly sized windows, the undulating floor and the more than 200 trees and bushes that bloom on the balconies and roof and transform the entire building into an oasis of green. The concept of a green city was perfected on a much grander scale by the architect Harry Glück in the Alt Erlaa housing complex. It is hard to believe this complex was built in the 1970s – construction lasted from 1973 to 1985 – and like Hundertwasserhaus, it was primarily designed as social housing. The 27-storey white buildings that make up the complex look like an upside down letter Y and appear to be from another world, or at least well ahead of their time. The numbers tell it all. Alt Erlaa is the name of three large blocks, each 400 metres long and 85 metres tall. They contain a total of 3,200 flats designed mainly for families with children. The average flat is 75 m2, but there are many different floor plans with as many as 35 variants. Alt Erlaa is home to some 9,000 people – a kind of city within a city. Residents enjoy their own shopping centre, two health centres, three schools, a church and a sports centre, and the swimming pools on the roofs of the buildings provide little cherries on the cake. The residential complex would probably be quite different if from the outset the planners and designers had not paid great attention to green spaces: all common space between the buildings is parkland or children’s playgrounds, and the buildings themselves appear to house floating gardens. Each flat has a balcony where residents can tend to their own mini urban jungles, and to ensure that lower balconies have sufficient light, the lower sections of the buildings are arranged in a terraced pattern – the higher the floor, the smaller the balcony. Living at Alt Erlaa has been thought through to the smallest detail, and it is not surprising that there is a long waiting list for available flats. Austria’s capital has something for everyone, be it gastronomy, shopping or architecture. It is definitely worthwhile to venture out of the city centre and head for the suburbs. Our selection is but a fraction of what this enchanting city offers, but we are limited on space. The best we can do is plan a return trip to Vienna in one of our upcoming issues. We can’t wait! For more information on Vienna visit www.wien.info and www.altstadt.at ■ RIGHT: Every balcony is a little garden. In addition to the more than 3,000 apartments, the Alt Erlaa complex houses several clubs, a church, parks and playgrounds, indoor and outdoor swimming pools and many other spaces that are available to the residents for recreation.

SOFFA Tips

HIGHLIGHTS FROM GUIDED 17/18 IF YOU ARE A DESIGN BUFF AND ARE PLANNING A TRIP TO VIENNA, BE SURE TO PACK A COPY OF VIENNA’S GUIDEBOOK GUIDED 17/18. THE SEVENTH EDITION OFFERS THE BEST OF FASHION AND DESIGN.

QWSTION VIENNA

MAK DESIGN SHOP

The Qwstion store features beautiful bags of the same name, as well as fashion and home accessories from more than twenty labels. A great bonus to the concept store is a charming café.

This design shop belongs to the Museum of Applied Arts, known under the acronym MAK. It offers iconic classics as well the latest designs from contemporary Austrian designers.

Zieglerg. 38 / Westbahnstr. | 7; www.qwstion.com

Stubenring 5 | 1; www.markdesignshop.at

HABARI

FREITAG

From Japan to Uganda and England, Habari features ceramics, textiles, baskets and other home accessories from the world’s leading designers and artisans.

FREITAG needs no introduction. Their bags, backpacks and other accessories made from recycled truck tarpaulins are popular all over the world.

Theobaldgasse 16 | 6; www.habari.com

Neubaugasse 26 | 7; www.freitag.ch

www.guided-vienna.com,

/GUIDED

The Josef Frank Suite Inspired by the pioneer of contemporary design. Viennese lifestyle at its best.

58 unique rooms. #vondermusegeküsst altstadt.at

Art

PERCEIVING BEAUTY AS BEAUTY IS SUBJECTIVE, ARTISTS PERCEIVE BEAUTY IN THE WORLD IN DIFFERENT WAYS. PAUSE FOR A MOMENT, FIND YOUR COLOURING PENCILS, AND JOIN US AND ARTHOUSE HEJTMร NEK IN EXPLORING THIS NOTION. partner for the article: Arthouse Hejtmรกnek gallery and auction house | text: Patrik Floriรกn photo: Arthouse Hejtmรกnek archive

BEFORE YOU TURN THE PAGE, SKETCH AN ENCHANTING WOODLAND ENVELOPED IN THE SCENT OF RAIN, WHERE YELLOW AND BROWN BIRCH LEAVES RUSTLE OVER GREEN MOSS. NOW LOOK AT HOW THE PAINTERS ANTONÍN SLAVÍČEK AND PETR PASTRŇÁK HAVE IMAGINED THE SCENE. WHICH OF THE PAINTINGS IS MORE BEAUTIFUL TO YOU? OR PERHAPS YOU ARE MORE INTERESTED IN HUTTERITE CERAMICS OR EMPIRE STYLE FURNITURE? VISIT A PLACE WHERE BEAUTY IS DEFINED IN THOUSANDS OF WAYS, WHERE ANTIQUES REGAIN THEIR LUSTRE, AND WHERE WORKS OF ART FIND THEIR NEW OWNERS. WELCOME TO THE ARTHOUSE HEJTMÁNEK GALLERY AND AUCTION HOUSE, A GLORIOUS PLACE WITH A CONGENIAL ATMOSPHERE LOCATED IN THE HEART OF PRAGUE.

Marie and Tomáš Hejtmánek breathed new life into an expansive seventeenth century villa in Prague’s Bubeneč area when they created their house of art, design, antiques and other beautiful objects. The couple’s passion for collecting art and antiques with uncommon stories has grown into a vocation. In their gallery above Prague’s Stromovka Park they welcome anyone who is interested in purchasing an object for their enjoyment, learning something new, adding more to their collection or simply meeting other collectors. In addition to art exhibitions, Arthouse Hejtmánek organises regular evening and garden auctions. The record purchase at the auction house was Oskar Kokoschka’s unusual painting of a panoramic view from Hradčany to Střelecký Island, captured from the Bellevue studio Kokoschka rented. The new owner paid over 52 million Czech crowns for the exquisite work of art. Presently Arthouse Hejtmánek is exhibiting the work of the sculptor Milan Beránek. For more information, calendar of events and an auction catalogue visit www.arthousehejtmanek.cz. ■

THIS SPREAD: Antonín Slavíček (1870 - 1910): Cesta ve Hvězdě [Path in the Hvězda Reserve], circa 1895, Prague; oil on canvas; winning bid at an evening auction in 2016: 7.8 million Kč (including auction house fee)

THIS SPREAD: Petr Pastrňák (*1962): Jarní les [Woodland in Spring], 2016, Czechia; acrylic on canvas; winning bid at the spring auction in 2017: 74,400 Kč (including auction house fee)

Editor’s Choice

BEAUTY TIPS CHOOSING COSMETIC PRODUCTS TODAY CAN BE MIND-BOGGLING. WE HAVE SELECTED A FEW FAVOURITES FOR WHICH WE CAN PERSONALLY VOUCH! text and styling: Adéla Kudrnová

Volume Conditioner, E+46, www.eplus46.cz, 360 Kč | Olivia Nail Polish, Sienna Byron Bay, www.biosophy.cz, 480 Kč | Douglas Cover Concealer, www.douglas.cz, 419 Kč | Mint Mineral Eyeshadow, Annabelle Minerals, www.eshopannabelle.com, 180 Kč | Vanilla Orchid Hand Cream, Eos, www.douglas.cz, 129 Kč | Nightly Refining Micro-Peel Concentrate, www.kiehls.cz, 1,460 Kč | Rollerwheel Liquid Liner, www.maccosmetics.com, $21 | The Ultimate Cheek Contouring/Shading Brush, www.raemorris.com, $135

Creative People

OF LIGHT AND SHADOW WITHOUT DIGITAL TECHNOLOGY OR RETOUCHING – OLGA STRÁNÍKOVÁ HAS EMBRACED EARLY TWENTIETH CENTURY PHOTOGRAPHIC TECHNIQUES AND SHOOTS ONLY WHEN INSPIRATION STRIKES. text: Helena Novotná | photo: Olga Stráníková

Creative People

WHEN LOOKING AT AN OLD PHOTOGRAPH WE SOMETIMES WONDER WHETHER IT IS INDEED A PHOTOGRAPH OR PERHAPS THE WORK OF A PAINTER’S BRUSH – OR SOMETHING IN BETWEEN. UNCONVENTIONAL PHOTOGRAPHIC TECHNIQUES HAVE THEIR FANS AMONG MODERN PHOTOGRAPHERS, INCLUDING THE CZECH PHOTOGRAPHER OLGA STRÁNÍKOVÁ. WE SPOKE TO OLGA ABOUT HER INSPIRATION, WHY SHE ONLY PHOTOGRAPHS WOMEN AND WHY SHE CANNOT PHOTOGRAPH ON COMMAND.

How do you prepare for a photograph? It’s an emotion that comes over me. I get excited, passionate, and I have to grab the camera and go. I have cycles where I photograph once every three months and nothing in between. I used to be sad during those breaks, because I feared I wouldn’t get inspired again, but then I’d notice a ray of sun or some other impulse, and the irresistible urge would return. Light is key for me, but I’m also inspired by music, film and poetry.

and discovered the bromoil print process. It is one of the oldest photographic techniques, part photography and part printmaking, and I find it absolutely fascinating. What technique do you prefer the most? At the moment I like working with a printing process called lith print, which uses a special developer that creates an image coloured in warm tones. The results depend very much on chance, on how old the developer is and even on the lunar cycle. One day I threw away about ten prints because none had come out well, and the next day, when the developer had aged, everything came out perfectly. Lith print is alchemy – I know that nothing will print the same the next time around, and that’s why the images are so very precious to me.

Why do you photograph women exclusively? Women are my muses. I’ve recently agreed to photograph a man, but even that will be with his partner. I would like to capture their emotions, perhaps through a caress or a glance. My models always represent destiny. They are not classic models, but strong women with stories. I don’t photograph men because I don’t understand them.

Are you not intrigued by modern technology? Not much. In photography I find the most important aspect is to work with my hands and to have contact with paper. It’s an obsession for me. Sometimes I spend several days in the darkroom – the impulse comes and I cannot stop. But when people have commissioned work from me, it has never turned out well … without the passion, I’m never satisfied. ■

What techniques do you use? I started with classic black and white photography on 35 mm film, but after five years I needed something more. I had always admired the early days of photography and work from the 1920s and 1930s, and so I started to study František Drtikol and Josef Sudek

WIN A COMPLETE RESTORATION OF YOUR PRIM WRISTWATCH! ARE YOU A PROUD OWNER OF AN ORIGINAL CZECH PRIM WRISTWATCH? IT WOULD BE A SHAME IF THE WATCH THAT CARRIES YOUR CHILDHOOD MEMORIES FOUND ITS WAY TO THE BACK OF A DRAWER. ELTON WATCHMAKERS, THE MANUFACTURER OF AUTHENTIC PRIM WATCHES, CAN BRING BACK NOT ONLY THE FUNCTIONALITY BUT ALSO THE ORIGINAL APPEARANCE OF YOUR PRIZED WRISTWATCH. THE RESTORATION PROCESS TYPICALLY TAKES BETWEEN THREE TO SIX MONTHS. Share the story of your PRIM wristwatch by writing to us at info@soffamag.com (subject: #prim). The most interesting story will win a restoration package valued at 6–8,000 Kč. For complete contest rules go to www.soffamag.com. For more information, including examples of restored PRIM watches, visit www.prim.cz. Photo: PRIM SPORT II. Child’s watch kal. 68 before restoration.

ONE AND ONLY PRIM Only a few countries in the world can take pride in completely manufacturing mechanical wristwatches. Czechia is one of them thanks to Elton hodinářská [Elton Watchmakers], who have been making PRIM watches in the town of Nové Město nad Metují for more than sixty years. Not all PRIM watches sold today are Czech made, however. There are some imitation PRIMs out there, many of them made in Asia. How can you tell the real thing from a fake? Czech-made PRIMs come with documentation that shows Elton hodinářská, a.s., as the manufacturer, and they carry the genuine PRIM logo designed by the employee Josef Žid. And then there is the difference in quality – but that will only show in time! For more information about original Czech-made PRIM watches visit www.prim.cz.

Food

THE ART OF TEA LET A KUSMI TEA RITUAL HELP YOU SLOW DOWN, AND LEARN HOW TO DRINK TEA WITH ELEGANCE AND PANACHE AT ANY OCCASION. partner for the article | Kusmi Tea/ Potten & Pannen | text: Tereza Škoulová | styling: Adéla Kudrnová photo: Michaela Karásek Čejková

IN THE SPIRIT OF SLOW LIVING WE HAVE ALLOWED OURSELVES A MOMENT OF QUIET. OVER A CUP OF TEA WE MET WITH JIŘÍ BOHÁČ, A TEA SPECIALIST AND AMBASSADOR FOR KUSMI TEA, TO TALK ABOUT HIS LOVE OF TEA, TEA BLENDS AND HARMONY. INTERESTED IN LEARNING HOW TO MAKE AND SAVOUR A PERFECT CUP OF TEA? IN COLLABORATION WITH KUSMI TEA AND POTTEN & PANNEN WE HAVE PREPARED A SIMPLE GUIDE FOR A TEA RITUAL THAT WILL HELP YOU SLOW DOWN AND RELISH IN THE SCENT AND TASTE OF A PERFECTLY PREPARED CUP.

As early as the eight century, the Chinese tea master Lu Jü wrote The Classic of Tea, the first monograph on tea ever written. In it he described the origin, cultivation, preparation and drinking of tea. Although tea is one of the most widely consumed beverages today, many of us have become a bit sloppy about its preparation. This is what Jiří Boháč wants to change and to this end he has created the profession of the ‘tea-tender’, a tea specialist who is knowledgeable about tea and puts great care in how it is served. As Jiří explains, ‘the name encompasses humility for the craft’. Jiří fell in love with tea as a young man and his passion caught the attention of Kusmi tea, a Parisian brand he now represents. The Kusmi company was founded 150 years ago by the young Russian Pavel Michailovič Kusmičov, who was equally passionate about tea, and who had a talent for making wonderful blends. Kusmičov moved the company from his native St. Petersburg to Paris and expanded to other European cities. Today the company is owned by the brothers Sylvain and Cloud Orebi who have retained the brand’s distinctive face: the colourful tins and the original tea blends. In their tea boutique in Paris they keep an old enamelled pot in which Kusmičov blended the Anastasia blend and a card file with addresses of the company’s first customers. ‘Tea should awaken all the senses,’ explains Jiří. ‘An opening of the tin should be pleasing to the eye and the nose, and its scent must be in harmony with its taste. The lovely ting of a spoon against a cup pleases the ear and the warm cup is welcomed into cupped hands.’ The essence of a tea ritual is simple and can be interpreted in many ways. There are only four key elements: boil water – pour it over tea leaves – let the tea steep – drink it properly. The kind of tea set you choose and how you warm the teapot also matters, as do proportions, aesthetics and the pouring process itself. The key, however, is how you experience the moment, and it is best when you have it just the way you like. Visit www.kusmitea.cz for information on the whole range of Kusmi teas including steeping times and temperatures. ■

TASTING WITH FRIENDS

GATHER UP TEAS OF VARIED COLOURS AND FLAVOURS AND SHARE A TASTING TEA RITUAL WITH FRIENDS. AQUAROSA IS A FRUITY HIBISCUS TEA INSPIRED BY ABYSSINIAN ROSE TEA AND IT NEEDS TO STEEP LONGER THAN OTHER TEAS, ABOUT FIVE MINUTES. GUNPOWDER IS A GREEN TEA FROM THE ZHEJIANG PROVINCE IN CHINA. THE BLACK TEA BLEND SWEET LOVE CONTAINS GUARANA, A WELCOME ENERGY BOOST. THE ST. PETERSBURG GREEN TEA IS FULL FLAVOURED, COMPLETE WITH BERGAMOT AND VANILLA, AND MUST BE MADE AT A LOWER TEMPERATURE – AROUND 75°C.

Kusmi tea blends, tea measuring spoon and porcelain teacups, ForLife, all from www.kusmitea.cz | glass teapot, Villeroy & Boch, www.vasekuchyne.cz

PRIVATE CELEBRATION

INVITE YOUR MOTHER OR GRANDMOTHER FOR A VISIT. A MORNING TEA CALLS FOR RUSSIAN MORNING N°24, A BLEND OF CEYLON AND CHINESE BLACK TEAS WITH A SLIGHT CHOCOLATE AROMA. TO ENSURE THAT YOUR BUNDT CAKE TURNS OUT PERFECTLY, MAKE YOUR PREPARATION EASIER WITH TEA BAGS. IN THE AFTERNOON TRY THE LOOSE ANASTASIA TEA BLEND NAMED FOR THE DAUGHTER OF AN EMPEROR, FEATURING BLACK TEA WITH BERGAMOT, LEMON, LIME AND ORANGE FLOWER. BOTH TEAS SHOULD BE MADE AT 90°C AND STEEPED FOR THREE TO FOUR MINUTES.

Kusmi tea blends and tea bag holder, Forlife, all from www.kusmitea.cz | porcelain teapot, sugar bowl, plate, teacup and saucer, all from the Amazonia collection, Villeroy & Boch, www.vasekuchyne.cz

TRAVELLER'S VARIANT

TAKE YOUR TEA WITH YOU IN A THERMOS OR A BOTTLE – HOT OR COLD! THE PRINCE VLADIMIR TEA, NAMED FOR VLADIMIR THE GREAT, THE CANONISED RULER OF KIEVAN RUS, HAS AN UNFORGETTABLE AROMA SCENTED WITH BERGAMOT, LEMON, GRAPEFRUIT AND VANILLA. IF YOU NEED TO FOCUS, TRY THE BB DETOX TEA, A BLEND OF GREEN TEA WITH MATÉ, ROOIBOS, GUARANA, DANDELION AND MINT THAT IS SURE TO RECHARGE YOUR BATTERIES. JUST AS WITH MANY OTHER TEAS BE SURE TO MAKE THESE AT 90°C AND STEEP THEM FOR THREE TO FOUR MINUTES.

Kusmi tea blends and Newleaf glass mug with infuser, Forlife, all from www.kusmitea.cz | Traveller bottle, Sigg, www.vasekuchyne.cz

So Clicquot, so responsible.

CANAPÉ

ROOM BY SOFFA

SOFFA LIVING AND DINING SPACE AT DESIGNBLOK 2017 PAIRING EXQUISITE FOOD WITH BEAUTIFUL DESIGN

CANAPÉ – a distinctive meeting space at this year’s Designblok in which SOFFA will highlight the work of renowned designers and brands in a purpose-built meeting space. Open to the general public, CANAPÉ will also be the venue for SOFFA cocktail parties and brunches for partners, bloggers and other influencers. Visitors to CANAPÉ will see products from brands including Bomma, Deelive, G. Benedikt, Křehký, Lavmi, Nespresso, Rückl, Ton, Vitra and others.

Leaf table and chair and Alba chair, both from Ton | Lifestyle porcelain tableware, G. Benedikt | František Vízner drinking glasses and Bubbles glass bowls, Bomma | Gradient carafe and Klára Špišková table runner, Deelive | coffee capsules, Nespresso

Prague International Design Festival 26–30 October 2017

Beauty

TELLTALE SIGNS THE EYES MAY BE THE WINDOW TO THE SOUL, BUT THE FACE CAN ALSO TELL A THING OR TWO. WE APPROACHED THREE PEOPLE, THREE DIFFERENT FACES, AND TOGETHER WITH KIEHL’S WE SELECTED PRODUCTS THAT COMPLEMENT THEIR COMPLEXIONS. partner for the article: Kiehl’s | text: Patrik Florián | models: Tomáš Kaliarik, Mayya Shin, Martina Novotná photo: Michaela Karásek Čejková and Kiehl’s archive

WE TRY NOT TO JUDGE A BOOK BY ITS COVER, BUT WHEN IT COMES TO PEOPLE’S FACES, THIS CAN BE HARD. EVEN ARISTOTLE SAID THAT A PERSON’S APPEARANCE IS A MIRROR TO THE SOUL. THE ANCIENT GREEKS THOUGHT THAT CLEAR AND WIDE-OPEN EYES REFLECTED A BOLD PERSONALITY, A WIDE NOSE SIGNIFIED LAZINESS, FULL LIPS SUGGESTED A FOOL, WHILE NARROW LIPS ON MEN SIGNALLED PRIDE. EASTERN MEDICINE USES THE FACE TO DIAGNOSE OVERALL HEALTH, AND OUR EXPRESSIONS REVEAL A LOT ABOUT HOW WE FEEL. WHETHER YOU ARE HAPPY OR SAD, YOUR FACE WILL TELL ALL.

They say that children have the face given to them by nature, adults have the face that reflects their lifestyle, and the elderly have the face they deserve. Do you believe that nature has given you a long nose along with a sharp mind or a high forehead full of great ideas? The basis to such beliefs is rooted in the fact that our hormones and genes influence not only our behaviour, but also the growth of our organs, bones and facial features. A high dose of testosterone, for example, means a greater tendency towards assertiveness and a wider face. Our face also tells about our habits, lifestyle and character, especially as we grow older – it is not surprising that wrinkles can tell whether a person smiles or frowns a lot. Thin and chubby faces hint at the amount of fat hiding under the skin, and a golden glow complexion suggests that a person has plenty of carotenoids. Together with rosy cheeks, a sign of good blood circulation, golden complexion is why some people are perceived more attractive than others. Perhaps most interesting is the influence that other people have on the shape of our face. In SOFFA 19, which was dedicated to generations, we featured life partners who look as though they were siblings. When couples are courting they tend to mirror one another, and as they live together they experience similar moods and emotions, which in time leave common marks on their faces. Kiehl’s has been caring for people’s faces and bodies since 1851, when the precursor to the original Kiehl Pharmacy opened its doors in New York. Since then Kiehl’s has created magical products like the scented ‘Love Oil’ from the Russian Prince Karl and the toner with hand-inserted calendula petals. They have also sponsored an expedition to Mount Everest and helped many a charity project. Book yourself in for a consultation and let Kiehl’s advise you on the best products for your skin. In Prague Kiehl’s outlets are found at OC Nový Smíchov, OC Chodov and at the Palladium, and in Bratislava at the Eurovea shopping centre. For more information visit www.kiehls.cz. ■

GROOMED BEARD Tomáš Kaliarik | 28 | Slovakia

Facial Fuel Eye De-Puffer The lightweight eye stick with an instant cooling effect minimises puffiness and circles under the eyes.

Tomáš is a co-founder of Slippsy, a company that makes designer slippers and boxers. When not busy with work, he finds time to care for his complexion and his beard.

Facial Fuel Moisturiser The light moisturising treatment for men helps the skin resist the effects of environmental stress. Moisturised skin will feel refuelled and revitalised.

Nourishing Beard Grooming Oil The grooming oil combines softening and smoothing Amazonian pracaxi oil with aromatic essential oils to care for your beard and the skin underneath.

RADIANT COMPLEXION

Mayya Shin | 27 | Russia

Mayya works in marketing at Socialbakers. Her morning and evening skin care rituals should be so effortless they become second nature.

Calendula Deep Cleansing Foaming Face Wash The soap and paraben-free cleansing gel with calendula will cleanse, refresh and revitalise normal and oily skin.

Ultra Facial Oil-Free Lotion The moisturising lotion is free of oils, parabens, fragrances and colourants. It contains desert plant extract, antarcticine and Vitamin E, which help to keep skin fresh and healthy.

Rare Earth Pore Refining Tonic The Amazonian white clay in this tonic deeply cleanses and detoxifies skin, leaving it softer and smoother, with noticeably smaller pores.

Super Multi-Corrective Cream The anti-ageing moisturiser lifts, smoothes, sculpts and retexturises facial skin. Paraben-free, the cream is suitable for sensitive skin.

Powerful-Strength Line-Reducing Eye-Brightening Concentrate The line reducing eye treatment with 10.5% Pure Vitamin C and Haloxyl will strengthen, sooth and brighten the eye area and help to eliminate dark circles.

Clearly Corrective Dark Spot Solution Formulated with Activated C, white birch and peony extracts, the facial serum minimises the appearance of dark spots and leads to visibly brighter, more radiant skin.

Martina is a primary school teacher who likes to take care of her skin the most natural way possible. All she needs is clean water, a good moisturiser and an eye cream with no unnecessary additives.

Martina Novotnรก | 58 | Czechia

SMILING EYES

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The Bugaboo by We Are Handsome Collection is designed for fearless parents who want to stand out from the crowd. The striking designs make an unmistakably bold statement. Unique, iconic and instantly recognisable, the collection will inspire those who lead healthy, active lifestyles.

MYBABYSTORE s.r.o., Drahobejlova 13, 190 00 Praha 9 | www.mybabystore.cz

Fashion

TRANS NORM IMAGINE A FUTURE WHERE THE IDEA OF BEAUTY IS AS WONDERFULLY VARIED AS HUMANITY ITSELF AND AS VIBRANT AS THE NEW EXCLUSIVE ERDEM X H&M COLLECTION, PRESENTED HERE BY DAMIAN AND JAMIE. partner for the article: H&M | text & styling: Patrik Florián | models and interviewees: Jamie Rose and Damian Machaj | photo: Michaela Karásek Čejková | make-up and hair: Victoria Sabo/ Makeup Group

BEAUTY COMES FROM WITHIN AND NO ONE CAN DICTATE WHO YOU ARE INSIDE. JAMIE AND DAMIAN, WHO AS LITTLE CHILDREN RECEIVED THE LABEL BOY AND GIRL, KNOW THIS VERY WELL. BOTH HAVE BEEN ABLE TO AFFIRM THEIR GENDER, NOT ONLY THROUGH BODY CLUES, DRESS AND BEHAVIOUR, BUT ALSO THROUGH THEIR INNER FEELINGS AND CONVICTIONS. LET’S NOT FOOL OURSELVES – OUR CULTURE STILL HAS A RATHER LARGE QUESTION MARK OVER THE TOPIC OF GENDER IDENTITY. ANYONE WHO WANTS TO LEARN MORE ABOUT THE ISSUE IS VERY WELCOME AT TRANS*PARENT.

Jamie Rose studies philosophy at the Charles University in Prague and is interested in American culture and politics and the literature of queer women. Damian Machaj is a creative, a trans activist and a blogger. He studied at Prague’s Academy of Performing Arts and is an audio-visual artist currently working as a multimedia content producer for Czech Radio. They are both actively involved in the not-for-profit organisation Trans*parent. Founded in 2015, Trans*parent strives for empowerment, social justice, promotion of rights, and positive social change for the benefit of trans women, trans men and other non-cisgender persons. The organisation provides a meeting space, organises support groups, offers advice, works on opening dialogue between the trans community and the wider world, and organises discussions and other events. Their website offers topical news, guidance and advice, interesting articles, and a practical glossary of terms that will help you gain a footing in the transgender community and avoid uncertainty in your communication. This autumn the Swedish brand H&M will feature the work of the renowned fashion designer Erdem Moralioģlu in the ERDEM x H&M collection. Known for his romantic, floral patterns and elegant women’s cuts, in this collection the designer has ventured for the first time into the world of menswear, where he did not shy from using delicate materials and playful designs. The collection reflects the designer’s belief in the power of beauty and expresses not only the past, but also personal experience. For a sneak peek at the colourful collection, look out for the grandiloquent teaser made by Baz Luhrmann. For more information visit www.jsmetransparent.cz and www.hm.com. ►

Fashion

Damian and Jamie muse over the question of beauty from the position of a trans man and a trans woman, and explore the limits of the beauty ideals our society has created. Society’s perception of what is beautiful is not static – it changes with time and cultural shifts. Is today’s society more open than in the past, or does it simply prescribe different beauty ideals, ones that continue to limit those who don’t fit them neatly? J: To be honest, I try to avoid any kind of judgment relating to the idea of beauty. Just as other aspects of beauty, deciding on what is beautiful in people is highly dependent on personal preference. Judgements on people’s individual appearance can be hurtful, and we can’t pretend that they are in any way objective or neutral. D: I feel the same. Even our personal preferences stem from culturally encoded norms. Norms that are created from images and representations of what is thought to be acceptable and ideal within our cultural context. J: Especially in the context of trans people, I feel that society places great demands on us to fit into existing traditional norms not only in terms of appearance, but also in terms of behaviour. A classic example is the general expectation that trans people won’t speak about their identity and that they’ll try to fit completely into the greater community.

D: I’d go so far as to say that when a trans person who appears to fulfil societal expectations challenges some of the traditional norms, he or she can be perceived as a traitor by the mainstream. Here I’m speaking from personal experience. Not so long ago I got to a place where I no longer attract quizzical glances that wonder whether I am this or that. This is a great relief, but I also realise that it’s a great privilege. When people mention that I now really look like a man, and that few would know that I am a trans man, I often answer with what may be perceived as a challenge. How should a real man or a woman look? J: It’s silly to dictate how one should look, whether based on gender or some other characteristic, because many people don’t even realise that the norms they consider to be fixed are actually very fluid in time. If I’m not mistaken, men started to wear high-heeled shoes so they could more easily get into the saddle, and only later did high-heeled shoes become a strong symbol of femininity. What was once considered to be beautiful and appropriate for a particular group of people can be interpreted very differently in another time. I think this is true not only for the evolving question of gender identity, but also aesthetics as a whole. Today we consider many of the graphic elements of the 1980s and 1990s as gaudy, yet we don’t take into account that they were an intentional reaction to what came before. ►

Fashion

D: I personally hope that the growing representation of trans people and the fact that we are seen more – and more importantly, heard more – is a sign that the established norms are being redefined and that we are beginning to let go of judgement and prejudice, which are so hurtful and limiting. I think that trans people are a kind of reflection of today’s society – we show that the structures that have been created in society are restrictive, but this makes us very vulnerable. J: I think that societal norms are shifting constantly to a certain degree. The question is in which direction the shift is moving. Historically we have seen many examples of shifts from one restrictive

norm to another. The shift we need to see, I think, is one where no two people will interpret the term ‘beautiful’ in the same way. Let’s be open to the reality that beauty cannot be firmly established. If our shift is only from the mindset that ‘a beautiful woman should look like this’ to ‘a beautiful woman should look like that’, then we haven’t really moved at all. The ideal would be to reach a place where everyone can look the way they look, present themselves the way they want to present, and no one will be judged for looking or behaving against gender norms... because there wouldn’t be any. If we can reach this place then we probably won’t need any further shifts, but reaching it won’t be easy. ■

PREVIOUS PAGE AND RIGHT: dress, 7,999 Kč; shirt, 1,499 Kč; pants, 1,999 Kč, all from the exclusive ERDEM × H&M collection dress, 5,999 Kč; shirt, 1,499 Kč; pants, 1,999 Kč, all from the exclusive ERDEM × H&M collection

Photo Essay

NAKED GLASS THE FASCINATING STORY OF GLASS CORROSION: OLD SHARDS REVEAL THEIR HISTORY THROUGH SPECTACULAR STRUCTURES. text: Tereza Škoulová | photo: archives of Dr. Ing. Dana Rohanová and Ing. Barbora Holubová

A MYSTERIOUS WORLD OF FLASKS AND MICROSCOPES AWAITS, ENVELOPED IN STRANGE AROMAS AND LIT BY STRONG LIGHTS. WE ARE VISITING THE DEPARTMENT OF GLASS AND CERAMICS AT THE UNIVERSITY OF CHEMISTRY AND TECHNOLOGY IN PRAGUE, WHERE WE TAKE A PEEK AT THE WORK OF STUDENTS WHO ARE RESTORING OUR CULTURAL HERITAGE. OVER A MICROSCOPE WE SPEAK WITH THE DOCTORAL STUDENT BARBORA HOLUBOVÁ WHO NOT ONLY UNDERSTANDS GLASS, BUT SPEAKS ABOUT IT WITH PASSION.

Glass restoration is a sophisticated discipline that requires a deep understanding of the material and of art history. Every student must learn how to properly measure an object, preserve it, take a sample and choose the right kind of adhesive material – one that will not yellow with age, remain firm and withstand moisture, yet can be removed if necessary. Students become skilled in restoring fragile objects from old shards and in interpreting their stories. Our excursion into the world of old glass takes us into the realm of fantastical structures which are startling, unpredictable and ever changing. Glass corrosion is a chemical reaction between glass and its surroundings, during which glass looses its lustre and strength. With ordinary glass this takes the form of dulling, presented as little white spots that resemble limescale. Corrosion changes the entire structure of glass and the material slowly begins to dissipate – unlike other substances, glass has no defence mechanisms. What causes the corrosion of glass? Silicate glass is formed by a rigid, irregular molecular structure that melts at very high temperatures. Because our ancestors were not able to achieve such high temperatures, they added melting agents into the glass mix, such as seaweed or wood ash, which lower the melting temperature by hundreds of degrees. The melting agents stretch the structure of silicate glass to make it more fragile and thus easier to melt – but later to also corrode. Atoms of melting agents act as free-floating elements in the otherwise firm structure of glass, and eventually water replaces them with its own hydrogen atoms, beginning the gradual process of destruction. Ions absorbed by water react with the environment and create secondary precipitates. Buried in soil for centuries, glass compounds can be corroded to such degree that they resemble ceramics or metal. It is only under the microscope that one begins to fully appreciate the power of corrosion. The microscope reveals surface pits caused by drops of water that in time lead to the formation of round concentric lines. Mechanical damage can also form beautiful patterns – corrosion causes tension, which makes glass fragile, and its fragility leads to the hairline cracks we know from old paintings. One can also observe iridescence, glints of light and various reflexions in the secondary layers caused by corrosion. There is beauty in science! ■

GOBLET, CZECH TYPE | 14th–15th CENTURY | CZECHIA Magnification: 5× Corrosion: secondary precipitation of corrosion products, ferrous deposits

RENAISSANCE GOBLET (VENETIAN CRISTALLO) | 1530–1623 | ITALY Magnification: 20× Corrosion: blue glass with iridescence

BAROQUE GOBLET | FIRST HALF OF THE 18th CENTURY | CZECHIA Magnification: 10× Corrosion: crizzling – crumpling and cracking of the corroded upper layer

FOUR-SIDED RENAISSANCE VESSEL | SECOND HALF OF THE 16th CENTURY | ITALY Magnification: 10Ã&#x2014; Corrosion: cracked upper layer of red glass in combination with ferrous stains and bubbles

GOTHIC GOBLET, KRAUTSTRUNK TYPE | 1450–1550 | GERMANY Magnification: 5× Corrosion: bluish glass corroded into a substance with precipitated corrosion layers and surface pits

NEW NEW

AT DOUGLAS DOUGLAS AT

Heavenly

MATTE LIPS!

We created the new Heaven lipstick with a unique cushion applicator for precise contouring and individually adjustable colour richness. Beauty made for you.

WIN A NEW Kånken BACKPACK! Win a Kånken backpack by Fjällräven from the limited edition #kankenart. Write to info@soffamag.com (subject: #kankenart) and tell us which world-famous art gallery or museum you would take this backpack to and why. The most interesting answer wins. For complete contest rules go to www.soffamag.com. For more information on the backpack visit www.fjallraven-shop.cz.

MAKE-UP SCHOOL

PERFECT SOUND

COSMETICS STORE BEAUTY STUDIO

Inspired by an orca’s ferocious beauty, the Czech audio speaker AQ Passion Orca features a sleek design matched perfectly to its ability to produce perfect sound. www.aqaudio.cz

Křižíkova 477/119, Prague, Karlín, Czech Republic

www.makeupgroup.cz

Scent

TALISMAN THEY SAY EYES CAN RECOGNISE MILLIONS OF COLOURS, EARS ABOUT HALF A MILLION TONES AND THE NOSE MORE THAN A BILLION SCENTS. THE NEW SCENT FROM THE FRENCH FASHION HOUSE HERMÈS WILL MAKE YOUR HEAD SPIN WITH JUST THREE SIMPLE INGREDIENTS. YOUTHFUL, PLAYFUL AND ADVENTUROUS – THAT’S TWILLY D’HERMÈS, INSPIRED BY THE BRAND’S ICONIC NARROW SILK SCARVES. TIE THE COLOURFUL RIBBON AROUND YOUR WRIST, WEAVE IT INTO YOUR HAIR OR LET IT FLUTTER ON THE WIND. text: Patrik Florián | photo: Lina Neméth

The former chemist and the first female ‘nose’ at Hermès, Christine Nagel was inspired by the freedom of youth when developing the new scent. Ginger, tuberose and sandalwood represent freshness, mystery and tenderness. The classic notes arranged in a surprising combination will awaken all your senses. Adorned with a cute bowler hat and a silk ribbon that can be tied a thousand different ways, the first truly youthful perfume from Hermès is a perfect talisman for any girl who is not afraid to dance through life with her head in the clouds. Close your eyes, breathe in and let yourself be drawn into a dreamy world full of colour and wonder. ■ www.hermes.com

Alžběta Jungrová and Martin Krajc: enamel and print on canvas. 120 × 140 cm

Photo Essay

TRINITY HOW DO THE PAINTER MARTIN KRAJC, THE PHOTOGRAPHER ALŽBĚTA JUNGROVÁ AND THE MAKE-UP ARTIST MARGITA SKŘENKOVÁ IMAGINE BEAUTY? THE TRIO OF ARTISTS – FOR WHOM VISUAL PERCEPTION IS THEIR DAILY BREAD – CAME TOGETHER TO CREATE A STUNNING GALLERY OF IMAGES. TAKE A MOMENT TO CONTEMPLATE THEIR BEAUTY. text: Adéla Kudrnová | models: Aneta Laudová, Marika Komárková/ Eskimo, Barbora Dlasková, Denisa Kršková/ Czechoslovak Models | styling: Terezie Dvořáková | production: Barbora Šafaříková make-up and hair: Margita Skřenková | photo: Alžběta Jungrová | paintings: Martin Krajc

Alžběta Jungrová and Martin Krajc: acrylic, oil pastel, charcoal and print on canvas. 120 × 140 cm

PHOTOGRAPHER

ALŽBĚTA JUNGROVÁ Alžběta is well known for her photojournalism and documentary work, which has taken her to remote places and conflict zones. For some time now she has also been applying her well-rounded talent in the art of photography to other photographic genres, as these pages beautifully illustrate.

Alžběta Jungrová and Martin Krajc: acrylic and print on canvas. 120 × 140 cm

www.instagram.com/jungrovaalzbeta

Alžběta Jungrová and Martin Krajc: acrylic, charcoal and print on canvas. 120 × 140 cm

Alžběta Jungrová and Martin Krajc: acrylic and print on canvas. 120 × 140 cm

PAINTER

MARTIN KRAJC Martin studied painting at the Academy of Fine Arts in Prague and gained further experience in his internship at the Facultad de Bellas Artes Universidad Complutense in Madrid. His early work was rooted in the hip-hop and street art scenes; his more recent work features women, animals and abstract depictions. www.martinkrajc.com

MAKE-UP ARTIST

MARGITA SKŘENKOVÁ Thanks to her boundless creativity and vast experience in shaping the human face with make-up, Margita is one of the most sought after make-up artists in Czechia. Her resume includes countless fashion and beauty photography assignments and collaborations with many famous faces.

Alžběta Jungrová and Martin Krajc: acrylic and print on canvas. 120 × 140 cm

www.instagram.com/margitavisage

Alžběta Jungrová and Martin Krajc: acrylic, charcoal and print on canvas. 120 × 140 cm

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Martin Krajc: acrylic, charcoal, lacquer and pastel on canvas. 320 × 380 cm

Martin Krajc: acrylic, charcoal and lacquer on canvas. 280 × 340 cm

Editor’s Choice

CLOSER TO NATURE NEW COLLECTIONS THIS AUTUMN EMBRACE VIVID COLOURS AND NATURAL MOTIFS. HERE WE FEATURE SOME OF THE MOST PLAYFUL ONES! text and styling: Adéla Kudrnová | photo: company archives

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Lady Minerals 10961 Raw Canvas Paint, www.jotun.com, price based on amount | Floating Leaves 03 Print, Moebe × Paper Collective × Norm Architects, www.moebe.dk, €40 unframed | Blad Coffee and Tea Jars, Klong, www.royaldesign.com, $73 and $54 | Belted Utility Dress, www.arket.com, €89 | Junit Lamps, www.schneid.org, from €125 | Apple-Cinnamon Løv Organic Tea, www.kusmitea.cz, 410 Kč | Adidas × Raf Simons New Runners, www.footshop.cz, 10,190 Kč

Interior

QUIET OPULENCE IN A DEEP VALLEY NESTLED AGAINST A PICTURESQUE HILLSIDE LIES THE BOUTIQUE HOTEL NAMED BETWEEN FENCES. DON’T WAIT FOR YOUR NEXT TRIP TO THE BESKID MOUNTAINS – THIS PLACE IS A DESTINATION ALL OF ITS OWN. text: Helena Novotná | photo: Lina Németh

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Interior

HOW OFTEN DOES A HOTEL OPEN ITS DOORS EARLIER THAN PLANNED DUE TO HIGH DEMAND? THE DESIGNER DANIELA HRADILOVÁ, WHO ALSO DESIGNED THE MODERN CITY.CITY HOTEL IN OSTRAVA, DREW INSPIRATION FOR BETWEEN FENCES FROM HER JOURNEYS AROUND THE WORLD. THIS SUMMER SHE FULFILLED HER DREAM AND CREATED A BEAUTIFUL BOUTIQUE HOTEL IN THE SMALL TOWN OF ČELADNÁ IN EASTERN CZECHIA. BETWEEN FENCES IS A STUNNING PLACE WHERE YOU CAN GET AWAY FROM IT ALL, THE KIND OF PLACE FROM WHICH YOU WILL NEVER WANT TO LEAVE.

The boutique hotel was named for the traditional small fences that are typical of the Wallachia region. The building is more than two hundred years old and originally served as housing for the directors of the local iron ore mines. Later it was converted to a residence and at one point it also served as a shop. When Daniela Hradilová took over, it was a dark, ramshackle place, and quickly gave rise to the hotel’s working motto ‘In Search of Light’. Today light shines throughout the hotel. Daniela’s ideas came to life on paper, but in a different format one might expect. ‘I prefer to write my plans,’ says the designer. ‘I write down my feelings and key words and in this way I formulate my ideas. You won’t find many drawings or sketches in my plans.’ The idea was not to create a hotel in the classic sense of the word, but a residence in which someone actually lives and where guests will feel rightfully at home. There is no need for a reception area. All guests at Between Fences have their individual rooms and their privacy, but they enjoy a common living room and a spacious garden, where they can meet in comfort. And as it always happens, they all end up in the kitchen, which is managed as an honesty bar – everyone eats and drinks however much and whenever they wish – just like at home. The hotel concept is reflected in the building: from the arrangement of the rooms and common spaces to the materials of choice. Wood, stone, metal, glass and nothing else, as the design calls for the most natural materials possible. The ground level floors are covered either in roughly finished sandstone brought in from Czechia’s ► LEFT: The living room is where guests have their breakfast, lunch and dinner. It is furnished with oak tables made by local carpenters and chairs with seats woven from seagrass made by the Swedish label Karl Andersson & Söner. The seventeenth-century prints on the wall were originally part of a herbarium made by the Nuremburg botanist Basilius Besler.

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THIS SPREAD: The large refrigerator from the Italian maker Smeg is available to guests night and day and serves as a so-called honesty bar. The deep-red chairs from Hay intentionally interrupt the white, wooden kitchen interior. In the living room guests can relax and read in a rocking chair designed by Patricia Urquiola for Kartell. The retro sideboard behind the rocking chair is from the Italian label Baxter.

THIS SPREAD: The guest rooms are spacious, full of light and furnished with only what you really need. The furniture is either custom-made or comes from the Danish makers Normann Copenhagen, Ferm Living and Hay. The white Suspence Nomad lamp, designed by studio GamFratesi for Lightyears, can be moved freely to any part of the room or even taken to the garden.

Interior

Vysočina region or in old cement flooring. The floors on the upper level are made of wood, and the outdoor terraces are covered in sandstone and granite. The ground floor has another interesting detail: along the entire wall perimeter is a gap filled with gravel, which serves as a simple yet effective method of ventilation. All the wooden furniture is made of oak and is mostly custom-made in a carpentry workshop just over the hill. ‘Oak is a prized wood with a gorgeous structure, and it’s also a Czech tree,’ explains Daniela. The remaining furnishings are from Italian and Scandinavian brands that intentionally contrast some of the period pieces, such as an old wooden kitchen chair that came from an old timber cottage in which Daniela grew up. The ceilings are covered with spruce, while on the exterior the wood of choice is larch, which will gain a beautiful silver patina in time. Between Fences can be divided into two parts – common and private. The common space includes the garden and almost the entire ground level. Each guest enters through a back entrance into a simply furnished room, from where they can continue to the kitchen, the light-filled living room or the dining room. The ground level also includes one guest room, tellingly named Guest. The other three guest rooms are found upstairs and are called Parents, Son and Daughter. Just like the remainder of the hotel, the guest rooms are very spacious, with the two smaller rooms measuring forty-four square metres and the large suites almost twice as large. Despite their large proportions the rooms are furnished in a minimalist style, letting light do its magic. The search for light is what led to the white chalk finish on the spruce beams and the wood panels recycled from an old barn, which cover the walls of the upstairs rooms. In the morning you can wander outside and lose yourself in an expansive garden with a biotop pool and two barns. One is part of the original complex and houses the largest fireplace in the neighbourhood; the second was added to serve as a summer-house where guests can enjoy their breakfast or dinner or simply relax. A quiet, homelike atmosphere permeates the boutique hotel, an atmosphere that is very difficult to leave behind. For more information visit www.meziplutky.cz. ■ LEFT: At Between Fences the exterior and interior spaces are not clearly delineated – one flows seamlessly from the other. The terrace is covered with the same stone used on the building’s ground level, and the pond is surrounded by flowers that are beautifully rendered in botanical drawings displayed on the walls of the living room. Chairs from Hay’s outdoors collection have also found their rightful place in the interior.

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THIS SPREAD: The renovated barn retains its brick foundation, but its new parts are made from glass, metal and larch. Daniela changed the original roof to one made with shingles, the same as the roof on the main building. In winter months or on rainy summer days the barn offers a comfortable alternative to the garden.

BUY GOOD DESIGN Design fairs are springing up like mushrooms everywhere. Unfortunately, they aren‘t always what they claim to be: the international design fair blickfang is different.

Design is often equated with ‘handmade’, and the actual design quality becomes secondary. This is different at the international design fair blickfang, where a curated spectrum of international furniture, fashion and jewellery designs is presented at seven different sites and a jury ensures that hobby creations are excluded. In addition, designers are always available at their stands for visitors, because unlike at similar conceptually strong design festivals, everything that appeals to you at blickfang can be bought directly from the designer. Or if you can‘t wait until the fair begins, you can browse the online blickfang design shop right away. www.blickfang.com

Utterly Czech

STAG POWER THERE IS SOAP AND THEN THERE IS SOAP. THIS ELEGANT BLOCK OF SOAP ADORNED WITH AN IMAGE OF A VICTORIOUS STAG HAS BEEN A HOUSEHOLD CHAMPION FOR MORE THAN ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY YEARS. text: Helena Stiessová | photo: Lina Németh

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Utterly Czech

THE FIRST STAG SOAP SUDS WERE MADE BY THE ENTERPRISING GEORG SCHIRCH IN THE CELLAR OF HIS HOME IN RYNOLTICE. A BUTCHER BY TRADE, HE SAW THE POTENTIAL OF ANIMAL FAT AND BEGAN TO MAKE A SIMPLE YET HIGHLY EFFECTIVE LAUNDRY SOAP. IT WAS THE YEAR 1848 AND THE PRODUCT WAS MET WITH GREAT APPLAUSE. THE GROWING COMPANY MOVED TO STŘEKOV NEAR ÚSTÍ NAD LABEM, AND UNDER THE HELM OF SCHIRCH’S SON JOHANN IT BECAME AN ENTERPRISE OF EUROPEAN RENOWN. IN 1891 THE COMPANY REGISTERED THE STAG SOAP TRADEMARK AND GAVE BIRTH TO AN UNASSUMING HOUSEHOLD LEGEND.

Even Czechs who have never washed clothes by hand know the stag soap brand. The cream-coloured block with a subtle scent has found its permanent place in many Czech homes, as common as sugar and salt. How has a simple block of soap survived the technological advances of the twentieth century and earned its almost cult-like status? While passion-filled nostalgia may be partly behind the nation’s love of the stag, there is more to it than that. Schirch’s soap was the brainchild of a brilliant entrepreneur who made a cheap and essential cleaning tool in a time when hygiene began to matter. It is not clear why the Schirchs chose the majestic king of Czechia’s woodlands as their trademark, but it was an ingenious marketing move that ensured that everyone remembered the brand. The Schirchs were visionaries when it came to marketing and placed advertising signs with catchy slogans promoting health and hygiene in every shop selling their products. The company grew at almost breakneck speed and before the First World War it was employing some 3,500 employees. Millions of stag soap blocks travelled across the whole of the European continent and there was no stopping the flow even during the two world wars. The face of the family firm changed only after the Second World War, when the Czechoslovak state nationalised the company. The state-owned company continued to produce the famous soap under the label Setuza. The simple recipe, free of unnecessary additives, has stood its ground over the years against countless competing products and advances in the cleaning supplies market. It has respectfully entered the twenty-first century, fitting neatly with the growing demand for ecologically friendly washing products. As of this year the soap is once again being made under the original Schirch label, its subtle scent recalling the time when our great-grandmothers hand-washed their clothes on a washboard over a washtub. ■

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Creative People

STREET QUEENS MEET LENKA ONDRUCHOVÁ, A FAN OF VINTAGE, A SNEAKERS FIEND AND THE FOUNDER OF QUEENS – THE FIRST SNEAKERS AND STREETWEAR SHOP IN CZECHIA. partner for the article: Queens | text: Patrik Florián | make-up & hair: Kristýna Hlaváčová photo: Michaela Karásek Čejková

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THIS PAGE AND NEXT: While Queens is planning a new flagship store in Prague, it has not forgotten its native Ostrava. The shop on Stodolní street opened in January 2009 and its fresh look reflects the brand’s identity. Queens shops and offices are designed by the duo Boris Klimek and Lenka Damová.

Lenka’s outfit: jeans, t-shirt, beanie, all from Wood Wood; bomber, Cheap Monday; sneakers, Nike Air Max 97; all available from www.queens.cz

Lenka’s outfit: t-shirt, Queens Team; skirt, Asos; sneakers, Nike Mayfly Woven

Creative People

THE IDEA OF QUEENS WAS BORN OUT OF A PASSION FOR DISCOVERY AND SHOPPING. STARTING WITH JUST TWO CLOTHES HANGERS OF VINTAGE ITEMS, LENKA HAS BUILT A SUCCESSFUL ONLINE SHOP AND TODAY PROUDLY OWNS OUTLETS IN OSTRAVA, BRNO AND PRAGUE. QUEENS OFFERS THE LATEST IN STREETWEAR FASHION, COLLABORATES WITH ARTISTS AND INFLUENCERS, ORGANISES CREATIVE EVENTS AND IS PLANNING TO EXPAND ABROAD. LENKA IS NOT ONLY THE ‘QUEEN’ AT QUEENS, BUT ALSO A MUM, AND SO BETWEEN SELECTING THE LATEST COLLECTIONS AND RUNNING THE COMPANY, SHE HELPS HER SON WITH HOMEWORK.

You started out as an entrepreneur right out of university. Was it always your dream to own a business? As a young girl I helped my father in his company, so when I got a chance to sell my things in a street art shop in Ostrava, and later to take it over, I didn’t hesitate. If I’m good at anything, it’s shopping, and I absolutely love fashion, so it was an easy choice. I can’t do something I don’t love – I have to do work that comes from the heart.

chains. How has Queens done it? We opened the sneakers and streetwear market in Czechia. We’ve always tried to offer something new to our customers, though at times we have been a bit too far ahead [laughter]. At Queens we focus on selection and quality. It also helps that I stand out and so people remember me. When I started out I painted graffiti and acted a bit like a man, and so I won my place in this space. I gave it everything – my first weekend off was after seven years, my first holiday after eight years, and my first salesperson earned more than I did. Luckily I was always able to make my work fun – like combining rap and reggae concerts with business meetings in Berlin and Vienna.

What do you love best about your work? And what has changed since you started? Although I have a team of buyers now, I will always love the excitement of discovering new pieces. Visiting massive trade fairs or finding tiny second-hand shops, the different cuts and materials, I love it all! I’m a bit of a maniac with three big wardrobes. I keep everything and as trends return, I love rediscovering old things. Today I live in the country, cook and help my son with his homework, and I take my role of a mother very seriously. But I also love to get back to the enthusiasm of my young team, which is hugely inspirational. And I realise that I will probably never get to wear my 200 pairs of sneakers.

You are planning to expand Queens with an online shop in Germany and a flagship store on Jindřišská street in Prague. What’s your vision for the future? With a new market we’ll be able to offer a wider range of products and grow our brand. Also, we simply have to be part of the new centre of streetwear fashion that’s being set up in Prague. With the upcoming Queens flagship store our fans can look forward to great new fashion, interesting projects and fun events.

Streetwear shops have popped up like mushrooms in the past few years, and it’s hard to keep up with the large

For more information visit www.queens.cz. ■

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MONDI NEUSIEDLER IN TOUCH EVERY DAY

THE BEAUTIFUL PAPER YOU ARE HOLDING IN YOUR HANDS IS PLANO®ART. IT IS MADE BY THE AUSTRIAN PAPER MAKER MONDI NEUSIEDLER, PART OF THE INTERNATIONAL PACKAGING AND PAPER COMPANY MONDI. From four paper manufacturing facilities in Austria, Slovakia and Russia, the Mondi company produces office and fine paper for offset, pre-print and digital printing – made specifically to match the latest advances in digital print technologies. Mondi Uncoated Fine Paper business adheres to the most stringent of international standards for sustainable manufacturing processes through the responsible management of forests and water resources, and through emissions reductions. All Mondi uncoated fine papers belong to the Green Range: they are produced from FSC® or PEFC™ certified wood from sustainably managed forests or from 100% recycled paper, or they are produced completely chlorine free. The Austrian Mondi Neusiedler paper company has been making paper since 18th century. Their portfolio of paper products includes Color Copy, BIO TOP3®, DNS®, HSI, NAUTILUS®, Plano Art® and many others. For more information visit www.mondigroup.com

Do It Yourself

IMPRESSIONS BEAUTY AND ART HAVE ALWAYS GONE HAND IN HAND. WITH THE HELP OF COSMETICS FROM PERFUMERY DOUGLAS, WE HAVE CREATED ORIGINAL WORKS OF ART TO INSPIRE YOUR CREATIVITY. COSMETIC BRUSHES, LIPSTICK TEXTURES, FOUNDATION AND EYESHADOW SHADES – COSMETICS CAN DO WONDERS NOT ONLY ON YOUR FACE! partner for the article: Douglas text: Adéla Kudrnová | styling: Lenka Hlaváčová photo: Lina Németh

PRODUCTS FROM THE DOUGLAS COLLECTION: Kiss & Curl Mascara; Eyeshadow Pen, Lovely Pink; Nail Polish, Mint Paradise; Long Lasting Nail Polish, In Your Own Thoughts; Lipstick, #F066; Jumbo Shadow Pen; Wet & Dry Eyeshadow, Color Impact; Prime & Glow Foundation; Bronzing Powder SPF 15, #1; Creamy Foundation Stick; Eye Pencil, Bluesy Blue; Duo Eye Glow Highlighter, Matt & Glow; Contouring Palette Make-Up Set; Powder Blush, Corail; My Glow Palette Face & Cheek Highlighters; Wet & Dry Eyeshadow, Soft Brown; Quattro Eyeshadow; Mattifying Powder, #6; Dual Tip Contour Brush; Dual Tip Smoky Brush; all products available at www.douglas.cz

LEFT: Age-Defense Foundation; Lipstick, #F066; Nail Polish, Mint Paradise; Quattro Eyeshadow; Dual Tip Contour Brush; Bronzing Powder SPF 15, #1; Eye Pencil, Bluesy Blue; Wet & Dry Eyeshadow, Color Impact; Wet & Dry Eyeshadow, Soft Brown; all products available at www.douglas.cz

RIGHT: Kiss & Curl Mascara; Wet & Dry Eyeshadow, Color Impact; Bronzing Powder SPF 15, #1; Wet & Dry Eyeshadow, Soft Brown; Powder Blush, Corail; Dual Tip Contour Brush; Dual Tip Smoky Brush; all products available at www.douglas.cz

Decor

BASIC BEAUTY INTRODUCING THE YPPERLIG COLLECTION FROM IKEA × HAY, FEATURING NEW FURNITURE AND HOME DECOR ITEMS, INCLUDING A REVAMP OF THE ICONIC IKEA SHOPPING BAG. partner for the article: IKEA | text: Holly Alderson | photo: IKEA’s archive

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THIS OCTOBER IKEA LAUNCHES ITS LATEST COLLECTION DESIGNED IN PARTNERSHIP WITH THE DANISH DESIGN COMPANY HAY. THE YPPERLIG COLLECTION INCLUDES A WIDE RANGE OF PRODUCTS, FROM SOFAS AND COFFEE TABLES TO ACCESSORIES LIKE AN UPDATED VERSION OF THE ICONIC IKEA SHOPPING BAG. THE MATERIALS, COLOURS AND PRODUCTION TECHNIQUES THAT DEFINE YPPERLIG HAVE RESULTED IN A COLLECTION THAT HONOURS TRADITION AND ADAPTS IT FOR MODERN LIVING, A COLLECTION WITH A MINIMALIST AESTHETIC PERFECTLY EPITOMISED BY THE PHRASE ‘BASIC BEAUTY’. YPPERLIG IS CONTEMPORARY YET AGELESS AND STAYS TRUE TO ITS TRADITIONAL IKEA FEATURES.

Mette and Rolf Hay are the husband-and-wife team behind the design company HAY. Founded in Copenhagen in 2002, HAY focuses on creating furniture for modern living using sophisticated industrial manufacturing processes. The couple draws inspiration from architecture, fashion and art, creating pieces that have a straightforward and functional aesthetic. Simply put, a perfect partner for IKEA. ‘From the start, we were very clear that we wanted this collaboration to be true to IKEA, meaning honest and substantial products at an affordable price that would be around for a long time,’ explains Mette Hay. The HAY × IKEA collection consists of just under 70 items, from candlestick holders to cushion covers, shelves, tables, sofas and tea light holders. Every item has its distinctive charm and each piece compliments the next, making the entire collection an effortless compilation of minimalist appeal. Keep an eye out for the release of the Ypperlig collection in October 2017, and tell us about your favourite pieces! For more information visit www.ikea.cz ■

LEFT: YPPERLIG SOFA BED: When designing the YPPERLIG sofa bed, the team wanted a product that offered more than good looks – the challenge was to create a sofa bed that also offered a great night’s sleep. By using a spring mattress as the seat, the team created an elegant sofa for around-the-clock comfort and convenience.

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LEFT: MONOBLOC CHAIR: One of Rolfâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s personal favourites, the monobloc chair is bound to be popular with its minimalist appeal and modern aesthetic. Rolf liked the chair so much that the team added a dining chair and a lower lounge chair to the collection.

LEFT: PLANK TABLE: Plank tables have always played a big part in the Scandinavian furniture tradition. Using the latest board-on-frame technique that offers extra durability, combined with solid wood legs and a metal underframe, HAY has produced a stable plank table with a clean and natural look.

RIGHT: THE ICONIC IKEA BAG: The iconic blue IKEA shopping bag has also had a makeover. Without changing the size or material, Mette updated the colours and the weaving patterns and created an extra durable version. The IKEA bag now comes in three fresh colours.

Analogy

(IM)PERFECT OUR PERCEPTIONS OF BEAUTY FOCUS MOSTLY ON PERFECTION. WE DEPILATE AND POWDER OUR BODIES, COLOUR OUR HAIR, SMOOTH OUT OUR WRINKLES. WHAT IF OUR BLEMISHES ARE PERFECTLY ACCEPTABLE, PERHAPS EVEN PERFECT? text: Hana Švolbová | styling: Lenka Hlaváčová | photo: Lina Németh

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WHILE PEOPLE HAVE ALWAYS COVERED UP THEIR IMPERFECTIONS, CURRENT TIMES ARE PUSHING US TOWARDS AN EVER GREATER UNIFORMITY. IMPERFECTIONS PREVIOUSLY CONSIDERED NORMAL ARE TODAY PERCEIVED AS EMBARRASSING, AND WE WORK HARD TO COVER THEM UP. SADLY, WE TAKE A SIMILAR VIEW TO IMPERFECTIONS FOUND IN NATURE – YOU WOULD BE HARD PRESSED TO FIND A BENT CUCUMBER, A POINTY TOMATO OR AN UNEVENLY COLOURED APPLE ON THE SHELVES OF YOUR LOCAL SUPERMARKET. SOME OF OUR COMMON BEAUTY ‘BLEMISHES’ HAVE THEIR PARALLELS IN NATURE. THE ANALOGY IS FOUND IN THE DETAIL.

Cosmetic blemishes may be merely aesthetic, such as excessive body hair, but a rash or a large birthmark could be a sign of a serious health problem. People try to prevent or remove these types of blemishes because we view smooth skin as a sure sign of youthfulness and good health. Our body is capable of naturally correcting most cosmetic imperfections: a scab or a bruise forms on a bumped knee, to be replaced in time with beautiful new skin. And what of scars? A scar too is proof of our body’s amazing ability to regenerate, yet it is often viewed as an aesthetic problem to be covered or erased with the tools of modern medicine. Let’s focus, however, on blemishes that are not the result of injury, but are quite natural and common. ■

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BIRTHMARKS, SPOTS AND FRECKLES THEY SAY THAT A GIRL WITHOUT FRECKLES IS LIKE A NIGHT WITHOUT STARS. BIRTHMARKS CAN ALSO BE CHARMING, AND A SINGLE BIRTHMARK ON THE FACE OR CLEAVAGE IS IN SOME CULTURES A MARK OF BEAUTY. BUT SKIN COVERED BY MANY BROWN SPOTS IS THOUGHT TO BE UNATTRACTIVE, ESPECIALLY AS IT IS OFTEN A SIGN OF AGEING. We do not have much influence over the appearance of birthmarks and freckles on the face, arms and cleavage, as they are programmed by genetics. Freckles form from an increased production of the skin colouring melanin. They can be influenced by hormonal changes and excessive exposure to sun, and they also appear in a place of minor injury and with age. ‘Age spots’ are also found in places you would not expect – just look around.

BODY HAIR ACROSS TIME, CULTURES OR SOCIAL CLASSES PEOPLE HAVE LOOKED AT BODY HAIR AND ITS REMOVAL IN VARIOUS WAYS. IN MODERN TIMES WE HAVE COME TO EXPECT THAT WOMEN WILL HAVE PERFECTLY BARE LEGS, UNDERARMS AND INTIMATE AREAS, BUT MANY MEN HAVE ALSO COME ON BOARD. The most common argument for depilation is hygiene and the prevention of body odour, which is caused by bacteria that break down sweat. But our body hair, including that found on the head, is there for a good reason. It protects the skin from injury, helps in its regeneration and lessens friction. In our quest for a perfectly smooth and fragrant skin we deprive it from these wonderful benefits. The rest of nature prizes hair, fur, bristles and thorns for their protection.

VEINS SUBTLE DESIGNS OF FAINT BLUE VEINS WERE ONCE ADMIRED ON PALE ARISTOCRATIC SKIN. BROKEN, ENLARGED OR BULGING VEINS, ON THE OTHER HAND, ARE CONSIDERED UNSIGHTLY AND ARE OFTEN A SIGN OF A HEALTH PROBLEM. THEIR REMOVAL IS ACHIEVED NOT ONLY WITH THE HELP OF COSMETICS, BUT ALSO AT THE DOCTOR’S SURGERY. Broken veins are a sign of insufficient elasticity in the walls of the veins, while spider and varicose veins are caused by weak or damaged valves in the veins, which lead to poor blood flow and pooling. Both types are influenced by heredity, but other factors contribute as well, such as hormonal changes, too much sun, excess weight or a sedentary lifestyle – something other organisms know little about.

CELLULITE DIMPLED SKIN ON THE BUTTOCKS AND THIGHS IS A NIGHTMARE HAUNTING MOST WOMEN. YET NOT LONG AGO CELLULITE BOTHERED NO ONE, AND IN THE MORE DISTANT PAST IT WAS EVEN RENDERED IN ICONIC PAINTINGS. AS OUR DESIRE FOR SMOOTH, PERFECT SKIN HAS GROWN, CELLULITE HAS MOVED TO THE FRONT OF AESTHETIC OFFENDERS. Although men are not completely immune, cellulite is mostly a womenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s problem, caused by an increase in the volume of subcutaneous fat cells. Who is to blame? Genetics, hormones, insufficient blood flow and too little liquid intake. In spite of common belief, cellulite affects even young and slender women. As our beautiful fruit illustrates, dimpled skin is not unique to humans.

STRETCH MARKS STRETCH MARKS ARE A FORM OF SCARRING CAUSED BY STRETCHING OF THE SKIN, AT FIRST RED AND BLUISH IN COLOUR, LATER SILVERY WHITE. THEY ARE MOST OFTEN LINKED TO PREGNANCY, AND NEXT TO CELLULITE REPRESENT THE MOST COMMON COSMETIC CHALLENGE OF TODAY. Stretch marks are created from rapid stretching of the skin caused by sudden growth or weight gain. Although human skin is elastic, abrupt change can cause tearing in the skinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s middle layer. Stretch marks usually torment pregnant women and people who are overweight, but they also appear during pubescent growth spurts and when athletes gain muscle mass rapidly. Have you ever thought about scarring in nature?

BUGABOO ATELIER COLLECTION Bugaboo introduces the Atelier Collection, a limited-edition design for the Bugaboo Cameleon3 and Bugaboo Buffalo pushchairs and prams. The collectionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s sleek lines, contrasting colour palette and bold silhouette are sure to catch the eye. By using a stone mĂŠlange fabric and black leather-look details, our designers have cleverly added another visual dimension to the stunning contours of the pushchair.

MYBABYSTORE s.r.o. Drahobejlova 13, 190 00 Praha 9 www.mybabystore.cz

Fashion

NARCISSUS ACCORDING TO A GREEK MYTH THE NYMPH ECHO FELL DEEPLY IN LOVE WITH A BEAUTIFUL YOUNG MAN NAMED NARKISSOS. WHEN HE REJECTED ECHO’S ADVANCES, THE GODDES OF LOVE APHRODITE PUNISHED THE YOUTH BY MAKING HIM FALL IN LOVE WITH HIS OWN REFLECTION. NARKISSOS GAZED LONGINGLY AT HIS IMAGE REFLECTED IN THE WATER, BUT HIS LOVE WAS NOT TO BE RETURNED. HE DIED HEARTBROKEN AND WHERE HE LAID HIS HEAD, A YELLOW FLOWER GREW. IN HIS NARRATIVE POEM THE METAMORPHOSIS, THE ROMAN POET OVID TRANSFORMED THE YOUNG MAN INTO THE DELICATE FLOWER NARCISSUS. concept: Michaela Karásek Čejková | text: Adéla Kudrnová | styling: Patrik Florián model: Kristijan Šarin/ Elite Model Management Prague make-up and hair: Elena Bassarab/ Make-up Group | photo: Michaela Karásek Čejková

151

‘I AM BURNING WITH LOVE FOR MYSELF. I MOVE AND BEAR THE FLAMES.’ The Metamorphoses, Book III: 437-473

PREVIOUS PAGE AND THIS SPREAD: underwear, Calvin Klein jacket and pants, both from COS | dressing gown, Barrandov Studio Costume Collection dressing gown, Barrandov Studio Costume Collection | cap, Dolce&Gabbana

152

underwear, Calvin Klein | fabrics, KS Textile Art

THIS SPREAD: pants, COS | shirt, Barrandov Studio Costume Collection | sweater, Dolce&Gabbana

‘…HIS YOUTHFUL CHEEKS AND IVORY NECK, THE BEAUTY OF HIS FACE, THE ROSE-FLUSH MINGLED IN THE WHITENESS OF SNOW...’ The Metamorphoses, Book III: 402-436

155

‘STRETCHED ON THE SHADOWED GRASS HE GAZES AT THAT FALSE IMAGE WITH UN-SATED EYES, AND LOSES HIMSELF IN HIS OWN VISION.’ The Metamorphoses, Book III: 437-473

THIS SPREAD: shirt, Barrandov Studio Costume Collection | pants, COS shirt, stylist’s own

156

‘THEY CAME UPON A FLOWER, INSTEAD OF HIS BODY, WITH WHITE PETALS SURROUNDING A YELLOW HEART.’ The Metamorphoses, Book III: 474-510

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MILADA, A HISTORICAL FILM FROM THE DIRECTOR DAVID MRNKA, TELLS THE TRUE STORY OF DR. MILADA HORÁKOVÁ, A POLITICIAN AND REFORMER WHO FOUGHT FOR WOMEN’S RIGHTS AND POLITICAL CHANGE IN THE FORMER CZECHOSLOVAKIA. MILADA RISKED HER OWN LIFE AND THE SAFETY OF HER FAMILY DURING THE SECOND WORLD WAR AND AFTER THE ONSET OF COMMUNISM, NEVER ONCE DIVERTING FROM HER MORAL COMPASS. TOGETHER WITH HER COLLEAGUES, MILADA WAS ARRESTED BY THE COMMUNIST STATE AND AS THE ONLY WOMAN WAS SENTENCED TO DEATH ON FABRICATED CHARGES OF CONSPIRACY AND TREASON. THE FILM HONOURS THE STRENGTH AND RESOLVE OF ALL INDIVIDUALS WHO STOOD UP TO THE MALEVOLENCE OF THE COMMUNIST REGIME. MILADA WILL BE SHOWING IN SELECT CZECH CINEMAS FROM 2 NOVEMBER 2017. FOR MORE INFORMATION VISIT WWW.MILADAFILM.COM.

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CONTRIBUTORS

Adéla Kudrnová I editor in chief adela@soffamag.com Lenka Hlaváčová I art director & designer lenka@soffamag.com

Lina Németh I photographer lina@soffamag.com Michaela Karásek Čejková I photographer michaela@soffamag.com Róbert Kováč I graphic designer robert@soffamag.com Helena Stiessová I managing editor editor@soffamag.com Helena Novotná I editor & editorial office assistant helena@soffamag.com Patrik Florián I editor & fashion stylist patrik@soffamag.com Max Smrčka I production manager max@soffamag.com Terézia Bělčáková I sales manager terezia@soffamag.com Petr Novák I sales manager petr@soffamag.com Dita Loudilová I event manager dita@soffamag.com

Ingrid Martonova I English translation Peter Stannard I English revision & proofreading

© SOFFA, s.r.o. 2017 I All rights reserved www.soffamag.com I info@soffamag.com Cover photo: Michaela Karásek Čejková CONTACT www.soffamag.com info@soffamag.com DISTRIBUTION Would you like to become a SOFFA distributor? Email us at stockist@soffamag.com

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HIGHLIGHT: Narcissus ILLUSTRATION: Beauty Through Time TRAVEL: Hallo Wien INTERIOR: Quiet Opulence FASHION: Trans Norm FOOD: The Art of Tea

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