Content
4 State of art 6 Directory board 10 Brand philosophy 14 Timeline 16 History of the brand 20 History of the style and collections 24 The wilderness years 26 Nicolas Ghesquière Collections 64 Nicolas Campaigns 86 Nicolas Iconic products 88 Alexander Wang Collections 108 Wang Campaigns 112 Wang Iconic products 114 Demna Gvasalia Collections 128 Demna Campaigns 134 Demna Iconic products 136 Buzz products 138 Collaborations 146 Red Carpet 148 Flagship Stores 150 Social media 152 Bibliography 153 Sitography
State of art
Company S.p.A Kering Group Nation France Founder Cristรณbal Balenciaga Foundation year 1919 Original location headquarters San Sebastiรกn, Spain Current location headquarters Paris, France 10 Avenue Hoche - Paris Current owner Kering Group
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Directory board Creative Director Demna Gvasalia 2015 to present
President Vira Capeci CEO CĂŠdric Charbit CFO Olivier Richard Revenue â‚Ź 72.725.134,00 (2016) 6
1919-1968 Cristobal Balenciaga
1987-1992 Michel Goma
1992-1997 Josephus Thimister
1997-2012 Nicolas Ghesquiere
2012-2015 Alexander Wang
Principali stilisti
Settori merceologici Women’s ready-to-wear Men’s ready-to-wear Handbags Shoes Accessories Eyewear Fragrance Kidswear License Eyewear: Kering Eyewear Perfume: Coty Website www.balenciaga.com Iconic product Pant shoes
Key element Combination of prints
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Brand philosophy
Each new collection of the Demas of Gvasalia includes experimental wardrobe items that implement new, more daring ideas of the designer. For such a short time, it was this approach that enabled Demna to attract the attention of fashion critics, and also to gain the reputation of one of the most daring designers. Balenciaga created austere, sculptural garments that were precursors for the sack dress, cocoon coat and balloon skirts; Gvasalia has used these shapes to create a new aesthetic. He has created anoraks that celebrate the cocoon silhouette while using shape as his muse.
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The show note from Gvasalia’s debut collection stated, “a reimagining of the work of Cristobal Balenciaga—a wardrobe of absolute contemporaneity and realism imbued with the attitude of haute couture. A translation, not a reiteration. A new chapter.” He took the avant-garde attitudes of Margiela, the antifashion streetwear aesthetic he’d pioneered at Vetements, and the historical elitism of Balenciaga and put it in one place. The twist is of course that the antifashion streetwear aesthetic is the new elitism. We live in a world of very rare, super limited-edition egalitarianism. That is our generation’s whole fashion MO. And teasing and redefinition of the spaces between new and old elitism. In fact, the space between the two feels like the defining aesthetic of our times.
Cristóbal Balenciaga assembled a brand synonymous with austere simplicity and breathtaking tailoring while Demna Gvasalia has turned high fashion on its head with his anonymous design collective. Gvasalia assumes control at Balenciaga to much discuss how he will merge his own particular individual aesthetic with Balenciaga’s deeprooted tradition.Gvasalia has made Balenciaga utilitarian while regarding the female form. Gvasalia adopts a relatively sociological strategy to comprehend the client and as indicated by Guichot, «understanding the instruments of seduction». His style is exceptionally influenced by the deconstructionism of Maison Martin Margiela, be that as it may, his concept of ‘wardrobing’ where pieces are planned to be a continuum of on another and expand upon each other, joins with Balenciaga’s ethos.
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Michel Goma designs ready-towear, showing his first collection in October
1987
Balenciaga opens a boutique in San Sebastiรกn, Spain, which becomes successful and spawns branches in Madrid and Barcelona.
1919 Creates many iconic garments and silhouettes.
1951
The Cristรณbal Balenciaga dies in Spain.
1968
1992
1953-1959 1972 Transforms the traditional silhouette, becomes fashion innovator.
Last Balenciaga Paris collection.
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Josephus Thimister brings back high fashion.
Gucci Group, part of PPR (later Kering) acquires Balenciaga during its shopping spree of luxury brands A show called “Balenciaga and Spain,” featuring 120 pieces from Cristóbal Balenciaga’s career, opens at San Francisco’s M.H. de Young Museum.
2011
2001
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Balenciaga unveils men’s wear with the fall 2002 collection.
Business of Fashion teamed up with fashion search platform Lyst in an attempt to determine the world’s favourite fashion brand. The winner is Balenciaga brand.
2017
2015
2018
2012 Demna Gvasalia is a new creative director of Balenciaga
1997 Nicolas Ghesquière serves as head of the house of Balenciaga. Balenciaga announces children’s line
Alexander Wang serves as creative director of the house.
H I S T O R Y
The master of cutting and He was born in 1895 in Getaria precision, Cristobal Balenciaga in family, where the mother capable of creating the is seamstress and father is a human body soft and elegant fisherman. Inherited from the T geometries. Spanish-born, mother’s passion for tailoring, H E managed to make the Paris of the so much so that only in 20 years fifties characteristic elements of opened his first Couture House in B his country as the lace, the baierò San Sebastian. The great success of those years allowed him to R and the contrast between red and A black. Balenciaga devoted his life open the other two in Madrid and Barcelona. With the outbreak of N to creating outfits, but managed D to go beyond the boundaries of the civil war in Spain, Balenciaga fashion, for this is considered to moved to Paris where, in 1937, be the real artist. Insight and he opened his maison to Avenue innovation, combined with a George V, on the third floor of maniacal precison are the basis of Palazzo Borghese. all his creations: collarless shirts, flat necklines, puffball dresses, tunic, bean bag and shirt tails.
O F
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Balenciaga created dresses for a Balenciaga was very familiar with restricted elite of persane, who the fabrics and their potential, were able to wear and pay tribute he drew inspiration from fabrics to his art. His creations were so much that he invented a not flashy or spectacular, on the perfect fabric to create volumes contrary they were internalized and suitable for party dresses: elegance expression, refined and Gazar. In 1951, at a time when sober. In the 1950s, Balenciaga determining the femininity of collided with the philosophy of a woman was the smallness of the famous fashion designer size, he introduced the semi Christian Dior. Unlike the latter, fitted suit. In 1955 creates the in fact, the Spanish couturier tunic dress and finally, with the needed physical contact with the 1957 sack dress, conferred on dress and wanted to give freedom him total freedom to the female to the female body eliminating body. Cristรณbal Balenciaga will splints, padding, thus moving always remain in fashion history away from rigid 19th tailoring as the undisputed symbol of style techniques corsages century. and elegance. On 10 June 2011 was opened by Queen Sofia in Getaria, Spain, the museum, that is dedicated to him.
In 1986, Jacques Bogart S.A. obtained the rights to Balenciaga, and opened a new ready-to-wear line, «Le Dix». The first collection was composed by Michel Goma in October 1987, who stayed at the house for the following five years to mixed reviews. He was replaced in 1992 with Dutch designer Josephus Thimister who started the rebuilding of Balenciaga to a first class, highmould status. Amid Thimister’s term, Nicolas Ghesquière would join as a licensed designer, and in the end, was elevated to creative director in 1997. Ghesquière left the brand in 2012 and was supplanted by the Chinese-American Alexander Wang. Wang’s period in the brand was brief, and in 2015, Demna Gvasalia of the devotedly loved design collective Vetements was given control. Gvasalia’s Fall 2016 debut paid a debt to his notable predecessors while mixing in the street edge Vetements is famous for.
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Balenciaga and Demna feel in a state of harmony. He and the brand are the ideal supplements for each other right now, which indicates how critically and basically effective he’s been. Not that Alexander Wang was offering and selling ineffectively, or doing economically badly. Which just shows the amount Demna has driven the brand on. How his design dialect has turned out to be generally acknowledged and outlines the esthetics of the periods. To such an extent that it’s difficult to envision anybody «raising eyebrows» at his arrangement now as they did when he assumed control.
H I S T O R Y O F T H E S T Y L E A N D C O L L E C T I O N S
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One of the most common encounters that you can do on the Paris Metro is the one with the accordion players from Eastern Europe. Their repertoire is diverse and ranges from the most famous French songs with themes of symphonies by Shostakovich. The thing they have in common is the wrong esecuzionen and imperfect of melancholy, something able to flatten and make routine what usually is perfection of the performance. Demna Gvasalia from Balenciaga has exactly this quality of execution when it engages with the great tradition of the brand Balenciaga:
the imperious lines of Christobal become the stinging hardness of mega shoulder pads; the oversized trench coat of Audrey is transformed into a refugee; the cocktail dress in a t-shirt rolled: the heel that rushes becomes a boot leggings by tamarra. In a blank space highlighted by a gooey soundtrack (instrumented versions of Wiecked Game by Chris Isaak and the music of Whitney Houston’s Bodyguard), this creative young man, however, has very long craft behind, continues his climb of mountain of the fashion system. His style is already a stilema, his talent has already one thousand copies. And his arrival at Balenciaga was one of the most targeted the multinational luxury Davies investments Kering.
Or ÂŤBello BalenciagaÂť how was him called, created several profiles for women, playing with the proportions and colours, always with surprising results. In 1951, completely transformed the feminine silhouette, broadening the shoulders and removal to life. In 1955 he designed the tunic dress that later if tronou chemise dress. In 1959 his work has become an empire, with high-waisted dresses and coats cut like kimonos. Became one of the most representative of the 20th century how designers, and respinsible from clothing render base of contemporary female wardrobe pieces such as: Dr baby dress, tunic dress and suit bag.
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From Cristóbal to Nicolas, Alex to Demna – revisiting the men who made Balenciaga
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The wilderness years Obviously, brands aren’t allowed to die, even when their originators do. After designer’s passing in 1972, Balenciaga’s heirs sold scents under his name until 1978, when they sold the house to German group Hoechste, who began up prepared to ready to wear. Creative directors included Michael Goma, who had prepared at Jean Patou, and Josephus Thimister, who was terminated after an especially awful show where everyone exited in light of the fact that the music was too noisy. Balenciaga wasn’t precisely the name on everyone’s lips, most definitely. That was until the meeting of a youthful, French designer in 1997.
Modern Balenciaga 21th Century Nicolas Ghesquière
Nicolas was a right hand at Jean Paul Gaultier before he found the activity doing licensing for Balenciaga. This wasn’t exceptionally breathtaking – it implied designing suits and memorial service garments for the Japanese market. His ability was soon seen, be that as it may, and in 1997 he was selected as the head designer. Straight away, his shows collected basic recognition. Ghesquière’s ability for extent and cut was clear from the impossibly slim, custom fitted trousers he conveyed, with cinched blazers and voluminous blousons. When Kering (at that point PPR) obtained the house in 2001, they kept Ghesquiere on – in certainty they’d just purchased the house to secure him.
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Alongside his stylist MarieAmélie Sauvé, Nicolas went ahead to fashion the 2000s. Famous collections included one that birthed the muchduplicated neoprene dress, another motivated by crafted by Bowie designer Kansai Yamamoto, and others that apparently took inspiration from Star Wars, mid-century cocktail attire and office clothing. Maybe his most striking exertion, be that as it may, was AW06, the first occasion when he paid barefaced praise to Cristóbal. In high riding boots and caps, his models raged out in the rounded silhouettes and checked bouclés so adored by the Spanish creator. Nicola’s other extraordinary contribution was in the realm of embellishments – the Lariat bag is as yet a gigantic seller for the house. Following fifteen years at the house, he left in November 2012. He’s presently head designer for the women’s collections at Louis Vuitton.
Nicolas Ghesquière Debut Collection Spring 1998 ready-to-wear
Nicola’s debut collection was all dark and modest in its aspirations contrasted with what was to come. Be that as it may, it portrayed his genius not just for the silhouette, as well as for casting. The superstar was a baby-faced Gisele Bündchen.
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Resort 2013 An unexpected disclosure of costumes that Cristobal Balenciaga made for a ballet performance of Ravel’s Boléro in the 1930’s inspired Nicolas Ghesquière’s new precollection. The smoothness as well as the shading palette: soft blue, pastel pink, and a barely-there shade of yellow he called bergamot. In case you’re believing that sounds excessively direct for a Balenciaga collection in 2012, you’re correct. Nicolas doesn’t «do» just beautiful, thus there was more to these garments than the backstory may recommend.
Nicolas Ghesquière Final Collection Spring 2013 ready-to-wear
Nicolas’ magnificicent new Balenciaga collection was an example in how he’s done it season in and season out for the last decade, by putting an utterly modern gloss on intense study of the house’s archives. Ghesquière said, «It’s the most sensual collection I’ve ever done,» then proceeded to rattle off a string of references that prove it was every inch as thoroughly researched as his more conceptual outings: the mythology of antiquity, stiff ruffles from a Cristobal dress circa 1968, a nymph and faun window display Janine Janet made for the store’s windows in ‘57. The fabrics were as bleeding edge as ever, too: tweeds that weren’t tweeds but dense embroideries, delicate lace fused to molded synthetics, and T-shirt knits dipped in glue for stiffness.
Pre-Fall 2013
This Balenciaga collection was crafted by the design studio. Without Nicolas Ghesquière to control them, the group must have ve realized that its efforts would be best spent making commercially viable versions of their former leader’s signatures. On that point, they for the most part succeeded. A few pieces had Ghesquière’s penmanship. Indeed, the collection’s most grounded piece was a reinterpretation of a bejewelled move dress from Cristobal Balenciaga’s Fall 1966 collection, modernized with a couple of thin dark pants. The sign of this house under Ghesquière was its steady drive forward.
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Pre-Fall 2013
Nicolas Ghesquière is not the creative director of Balenciaga, anymore, Wang hasn’t yet demonstrated his hand for the brand. But, shops request garments, so the design studio ventured in to make the Fall men’s collection. In that capacity, it was more a commercial stopgap than a completely acknowledged substance unto itself. The collection worked, however, due to the abundance of past hits—both Nicolas’ and Cristobal’s—any Balenciaga fashioner needs to draw on. The rounded, lacquered wool tweed coat adapted Monsieur Balenciaga’s cocoon shapes for menswear. What Balenciaga looks like next is to be seen. What it has looked like in stores these previous couples of years was on clear and alluring presentation.
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Modern Balenciaga 21th Century Alexander Wang
In the wake of Nicolas Ghesquière’s takeoff, the hypothesis was fevered concerning who may supplant him. The appropriate response was sudden - new creative director of Balenciaga is American designer Alex Wang. Wang’s simple, hot sportswear was strikingly unique in relation to Ghesquière’s strong and serious silhouettes, yet Wang remained consistent with Cristóbal’s devotion to moderation and playfulness with proportion. His stint at the brand demonstrated that he could work in a high fashion arena, and with a Parisian, nearly couture standard atelier. Following three years, it was chosen that maybe he wasn’t the best fit for the house, and they went separate ways.
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Alexander Wang Debut Collection Fall 2013 ready-to-wear
Alexander Wang has created his first Balenciaga collection in the house’s intimate salons on the Avenue George V. Wang’s runway was faux marble, and it became one of the show’s ongoing tropes—a paean, apparently, to the sculptural quality of Cristóbal Balenciaga’s clothes, not to mention the monolithic legacy.
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Alexander Wang Final Collection Spring 2016 ready-to-wear
Wang’s three-year stretch at Balenciaga is finished. He went out dancing, doing selfies and whirling down the runway. His swan tune was the freest of any of the accumulations he improved the situation the house, and the most delicate. All in shades of ivory. All paraded delicately out on lace slippers. All in delicate, regular textures like material, cotton, and voile with delicate, rolling edges. It looked effortless, where the ones that preceded it felt effortful.
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Modern Balenciaga 21th Century Demna Gvasalia
When it was reported in 2015 that the creative director of Vetements, Demna Gvasalia, would head up the brand, Balenciaga has been a favourite one in the press. Gvasalia’s plans are both distinctly luxury and profoundly pull in his thankfulness for what’s going on the streets. Think re-done Cristóbal outfits close by Helly Hansen style parkas, ostentatious costume jewellery and swing coats that mimic styles from the 50s. It is by all accounts joining both radical cool with the refined sensibility of the house, winning him a CFDA grant. Balenciaga’s fortunes are turning upward once more.
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Demna Gvasalia Debut Collection Fall 2016 ready-to-wear
Gvasalia wasn’t just talking about the profile created by the forward-leaning technical cut of the coats and jackets, the whoosh of volume in the fronts of skirts, and the inward-angled stiletto heels. This was a “profiling” in a much bigger sense—a pragmatic, intelligent, sweeping analysis of whole categories of what women might want to wear on a daily basis, if they care about fashion—or, rather, about dressing well. The effect was a surging visual high for women of many ages who saw, among the glittering earrings, taut ski pants, jeweled stilettos, oversize puffers, padded scarves, soberly chic checked sheaths and multi-floral dresses, an inspiringly whole and succinct set of wardrobe desires answered.
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Logo cap Pantashoes Bazar shopper bag Speed trainer sneakers Triangle duffle bag Triple S trainers
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Demna Gvasalia Iconic products
Buzz products Ikea-inspired bag
Crocs
One blue leather oversize Demna Gvasalia for Balenciaga tote from French luxury label would go on on to showcase Balenciaga has become the his own Crocs creation in Paris focus of style-centric corners — a nearly-four-inch platform of the Internet this week, customized with Balenciagaspawning articles, comments, branded Jibbitz and some of and digital conniption fits. The Crocs’s own designs. According New York Post, never one for to the Crocs team, they had a much subtlety, ran their take 10-week timeline to create an with the headline «Balenciaga’s entirely brand new style for the Ikea-Bag Knockoff Is Even French fashion house. Dumber Than It Looks.» Today noted, with a heavy dose of snark, that it features «a ‘goldstamped’ logo on the top of the bag for the ultimate luxurious feel.»
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The collaboration with Colette is full of buzz products. Balenciaga is sure having fun this year. Especially surprising is a «shopping bag» that instead of paper, this bag made of calfskin and metal. And instead of “free with purchase so you can put your items in it,” it’s $1,100.
Collaborations Balenciaga X Net-a-porter
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The Balenciaga x Net-a-Porter capsule collection has dropped. Balenciaga is one of the most exciting brands currently, with creative director Demna Gvasalia releasing “It” items after another every season. From the sharp Knife pumps to the ultimate Bazar bags and Triple S sneakers that started the ugly sneaker trend – Balenciaga is a key to the face of contemporary fashion. And so the collaboration with Net-a-Porter, the designer shopping destination of every fashion-obsessed, was only a natural one – one bound to happen. The capsule collection, for both Net-a-Porter and Mr. Porter, consists of items that resemble Balenciaga’s Spring 2018 runway show. With logo-printed Knife pumps, a golden quilted BB round bag, the Speed sneaker and the Bazar bag in a red, grey and white release – it’s a drool-worthy collection of the label’s house icons, in reinvented form. Here’s our top picks from the collection.
Each new collection of the Demas of Gvasalia includes experimental wardrobe items that implement new, more daring ideas of the designer. For such a short time, it was this approach that enabled Demna to attract the attention of fashion critics, and also to gain the reputation of one of the most daring designers. Balenciaga created austere, sculptural garments that were precursors for the sack dress, cocoon coat and balloon skirts; Gvasalia has used these shapes to create a new aesthetic. He has created anoraks that celebrate the cocoon silhouette while using shape as his muse.
Balenciaga X Crocs
Prepare for 2017’s biggest fashion surprise: Balenciaga and Crocs have teamed up to create «Foam» shoes, a platform twist on the classic Crocs clogs. If this collaboration confuses you a little, you’re definitely not alone:
Mytheresa.com, the iconic French fashion house Balenciaga and director Danny Sangra met in Paris to collaborate on a second exclusive fashion film. ‘Tourists’ tells the story of a somewhat unusual sightseeing tour, ending in the Parisian catacombs. Each of Demna Gvasalia’s Balenciaga FW16 looks featured in the twominute short is now available at mytheresa.com.
Balenciaga X Colette
The exclusive capsule collection is designed by Demna Gvasalia and was only sold at Colette Paris for the Men’s Fashion Week presenting Balenciaga’s new collection. All the accessories were sold out immediately.
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In social media, the new collections and brand’s campaigns are actively discussed. Through the Instagram, Twitter, Facebook and YouTube, Balenciaga brand can to share with the world all the new information, after which in every social network appear both positive and negative comments.
YouTube
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Credits Work by Sofiia Trunova Course: Semiotica della moda Professor: Aurora Fiorentini Year: 2017/2018 Accademia di Costume e Moda Fashion Styling, Communication and Editor