F/W 22-23
IN SEASON DENIM & TRIMS LOOK BOOK
TRIMS / 1
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t will take years to understand the long-term effects the pandemic will have on the denim industry. Though more than 2 billion doses of the vaccine have been administered worldwide, new variants and second and third waves of the coronavirus continue to wreak havoc on parts of the supply chain. The latest earning calls from fashion brands and retailers brimmed with optimism, but the U.S. unemployment rate has seen little change, a factor that will likely weigh heavily on discretionary spending. And the full scope of how brands and consumers will respond to topics that came to a head during the pandemic, like the environment, equality, and racial injustice, has yet to be seen in a coronavirus-free world. The unprecedented events of the last 18-months, however, are having an immediate impact on the ways denim mills and trim suppliers are executing their Fall/Winter 22-23 collections. The 2020 Marie Kondo-ing of closets—along with pandemic hobbies like upcycling and thrifting—has helped catapult durability and circularity into qualities that are sought-after by millennial and Gen Z consumers. The roll-out of collections based on the Ellen MacArthur Jeans Redesign guidelines for circular denim have only amplified this awareness. From trims that are easily removable for recycling, to cotton-rich denim and blends that utilize the strength of hemp fibers, the industry is taking steps to keep wearable garments in rotation for longer.
If produced responsibly, a garment at the end of its lifecycle is merely on the cusp of starting a new journey. Mills are ramping up their efforts to recycle pre- and post-consumer waste into new fabrics, enabling brands to offer collections that require less water, dyestuff and chemicals compared to jeans made entirely from virgin materials. While communication between suppliers and denim brands continue to take place largely over digital platforms, and consumers’ fondness for online shopping only deepened during the pandemic, the industry has not lost sigh of the tactile nature of denim. Evident in the growing number of cozy and soft fabric collections, mills have fine-tuned their fiber blends and constructions to satisfy consumers’ unwavering demand for comfortable jeans. They’ve worked to maintain the oft-touted “authentic look” of denim, while enhancing it with smooth and silky handles and comfort stretch. In other words, denim has not ceded to loungewear or to the now antiquated notion that it is a “dirty business.” Denim, in fact, is returning with a vengeance and a whole new look to match. The trend toward looser fits is not only giving skinny jean-wearing consumers a reason to stock up on new styles, but its also creating new opportunities for designers to experiment with fabrics that have landed outside their skinny jean toolbox for the past decade. Showcasing more than 100 products from 27 different companies, this Fall/Winter 22-23 In Season look book made possible with the support of Cotton Incorporated will help arm designers with the fabrics, trims and insight they need to know for denim’s hotly anticipated comeback.
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CONTENTS MILLS / 7 Durable blends, Cradle to Cradle certified fabrics and new strategies to reduce waste and conserve natural resources are among the ways mills are scaling sustainability for F/W 22-23. As momentum builds for a denim renaissance, brought on by demand for looser fits and work-friendly styles, mills are ushering in opportunities to offer heavier weights and more authentic constructions.
T R E N D S / 47 Earthy colorways, comfort and nostalgia will factor into denim themes for Fall 2022 through Spring 2023 collections. However, as sustainability gains importance with consumers, they will also look at brand trust and image to guide their purchasing decisions.
TRIMS / 53 Whereas a new season is typically a time for trim manufacturers to introduce novelties, companies expect to see a greater demand for timeless and sustainable designs—qualities that will resonate with the post-pandemic consumer. Trim companies, however, have been readying for this new eco-mindset as denim brands increasingly seek components that will round-out their sustainable product lines.
C OV ER C REDIT S: CO N E D E N I M J E A N S
NAME OF MILL CALIK DENIM COUNTRY
TURKEY SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS W W W.CA L I K D E N I M.C O M
Reducing waste to the minimum and reusing as much as possible to achieve a circular economy. We are replacing our machinery with more advanced ones that will offer greater energy consumption savings. We are also implementing programs to buy and adapt new that will allow us to reuse and 2025machinery targets include reducing greenhouse gasreduce emischemical products and reuse water so purchasing we can lower sions by expanding renewable energy to 50 our consumption of the thisuse precious resource. percent; increasing of organic, BCI and recycled
SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS
cotton by up to 60 percent and increasing the share of income from sustainable products to 60 percent of total sales.
CERTIFICATIONS
OEKO-TEX View100 Sustainability Report Industria Limpia Bureau Veritas Higg FEM
CERTIFICATIONS
EU Ecolabel A sentence if needed. Nordic Swan Ecolabel OEKO-TEX GOTS OCS GRS a fiber RCS a fiber ISO 9001 a fiber ISO 14001 a fiber ISO 50001 a fiber 27001 ISO/IEC OHSAS 18001
KEY FIBERS
KEY FIBERS Recycled cotton Organic cotton Hemp Tencel Refibra Roica Naia Lycra EcoMade
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On the F/W 21-22 season: The major themes that Artistic Fabric Mill (AFM) is exploring for F/W 21-22 are deeply rooted in providing essential, season-less fabrics with elevated performance, aesthetic and sustainable characteristics. A few of our key construction highlights this season are: Earthmatic, ourOur family of aim Cradle to maximize Cradle Gold certiOn sustainability: main is to sustainfied fabrics made using recycledsystem mill waste; and Phoenix— ability in the entire production by building a circuDenim Reborn,collection. which comes varyingyarn weights, colors larity-oriented Our in E-Denim technology and compositions made from mill waste. maximizes recycledand fiberiscontent in therecycled composition of the We’re also Biodegradable Stretch; Flexywith 3.0, 100 our fabrics. Ourlaunching brand new Re/J concept offers denim latest iteration hyper-soft stretchpostfabrics low compercent recycledofmaterial including andwith pre-consumer pression; ReWeft, which centers a dark blue waste. Theand Blue-H concept denim withon hemp is one of and our black weft the dyeing range waste. most viablerecovered and bestfrom sustainable alternatives to cotton in alsoand introducing a range of water-saving colors including termsWe’re of touch durability. We also use techthe Flea Dyepro Market and range, which throughout is reminiscent of authentic nologies Denethic the collection. indigo dyed shades typically found at flea markets. From cornflower blues bleached-out lighter shades (without On comfort: OurtoD-Leisure concept offers comfortable the use actual that bleach) and for vintage and looseofarticles are ideal daily over-dyed and home looks, office this Fabrics range ofhave shades is truly captivating. also and haveTenLalife. an authentic look, whileWe Tencel ser Modal Friendly Shades, in which we’re progressing cel fibers provide softness andgradually smoothness. Anothtoward offering all ofofthe industry’s favorite in la-a er distinctive feature D-Leisure is that the shades denim has ser-sensitive knit or fancyrecipes. weave look that is very trendy. The fabrics are perfect for wide leg, drapey, boyfriend or mom jeans and On how thefits. millWeisoffer responding to clients’ requests: loose lounge CBD oil-treated fabrics as well. Conscious brands are wanting toassee more innovation in CBD has important features such pain relief and a calmsustainable whilea still keeping their consumers’ ing effect on denim top of being powerful antioxidant. aesthetics and price points in mind. AFM has an advantage here with our in-house recycling plant and expertise in sustainable dyeing and finishing, so we can offer a lot of price-neutral sustainable features. In terms of trends, we are looking at faded lighter shades, super soft hand-feels and comfort stretches. On addressing consumer needs: In terms of performance, our fabric offering appeals more to the women’s buyers since there has typically been more room for innovation and creativity in that segment. However, this season we have taken special care to address the changing needs for the men’s buyer, including authentic-looking, lightweight stretch as well as new shades that speak to an evolved male consumer. On how the mill is addressing sustainability: At AFM, all of our fabric developments are centered around sustainable fibers, processes, chemicals and treatments every season.
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On durability: It is safe to say that we do not include any items in our collection that have any durability or strength issues. Our fabrics generally have a long-term resistance profile. Articles of denim that are cotton rich, have Lycra T400 fiber and include hemp in the content would be go-to pieces in terms of long-lasting durability. On fashion: Our Denovated collection offers vintage-looking fabrics perfect for wide-leg boyfriend jeans and oversize Trucker jackets. The concept combines the authentic look of the ’80s and ’90s with the advantages of today’s technologies. Additionally, our D-Leisure concept is great for loose cut and baggy jeans. D-Leisure also can be used to produce tie-dye denim.
SUSTAINABLE ECO-INNOVATIVE COMFORTABLE On circularity: Denim from the Re/J concept contains recycled content from post- and pre-consumer waste. All materials used are environmentally friendly (e.g., Lycra EcoMade and Repreve recycled polyester). The articles in this concept are dyed with our Dyepro technology, a zero-water, no chemical waste technology for extra conscious production. In Re/J, we offer denim with a variety of elasticity including rigid, comfort stretch and power stretch, with washed weights from 12.75-ounces to 15-ounces. These articles are designed resembles the vintage ’70s denim look.
MILLS / 7
NAME OF MILL DENIM GLOBAL COUNTRY MEXICO W W W.GLO B A L D E N I M.C O M.M X
SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS SUSTAINABILITY Reducing waste to the TARGETS minimum and reusing as much as possible to achieve a circular economy. We are Goals include: reduce waste the minimum reuse replacing our machinery withtomore advancedand ones as much possible toenergy achieveconsumption a circular economy; that will as offer greater savings. replace machinery with more advanced ones that will We are also implementing programs to buy and adapt offer greater energy consumption savings; and implenew machinery that will allow us to reuse and reduce ment programs to buy adapt new that chemical products andand reuse water somachinery we can lower will allow us to reuse and reduce chemical products and our consumption of this precious resource. reuse water so we can lower our consumption of this precious resource.
CERTIFICATIONS CERTIFICATIONS OEKO-TEX 100
Industria Limpia OEKO-TEX 100 Bureau Veritas Industria Higg FEMLimpia Bureau Veritas Higg Index A sentence if needed.
KEY FIBERS KEY FIBERS Cotton Recycled a fiber cotton Tencel a fiber Lycra a fiberT400 a fiber a fiber
On the F/W 21-22 season: The major themes that Artistic Fabric Mill (AFM) is exploring for F/W 21-22 are deeply rooted in providingWe essential, fabrics with On sustainability: believeseason-less sustainability is a way toeleopvated and performance, erate, somethingaesthetic that can and onlysustainable improve as characteriswe try to be tics.best A few of our construction highlights this season the version of key ourselves every day. This season, Global are: Earthmatic, our family of Cradle to Cradle Gold certiDenim is continuing to operate its green practices, making fiedoffabrics made using recycled waste; and Phoenix— all our production out of cleanmill renewable energy, saving Denimwith Reborn, which comes in varying weights, colors water our Ecolojean program and using the cleanest and compositions and(which is madehas from recycled mill waste. indigo on the market a Cradle to Cradle PlatWe’re certification). also launchingInBiodegradable 3.0, our inum addition, ourStretch; greatestFlexy mission this latest iteration of hyper-soft stretchtofabrics withfabrics low comseason was to add recycled cotton all of our and pression; and ReWeft, which centers on a dark blue proand be able to work harder and push our recycling Ecoloop black forward. weft recovered from the dyeing range waste. gram We’re also introducing a range of colors including the Flea Market range, is which is reminiscent of authentic On comfort: Comfort one of, if not the most, importindigo dyed shades found at on fleaa markets. From ant qualities we can typically look for in denim post-pandemic cornflower blues bleached-out (without consumer. To thattoend, 99 percentlighter of ourshades collection this the usehas of stretch, actual bleach) season ranging and fromvintage comfortover-dyed stretch tolooks, super this range shades is trulyacaptivating. Wefabric also have Lastretch. Weofare introducing revolutionary concept ser Shades, infabric whichcategory we’re gradually progressing call Friendly the Supreme. The has almost 100 pertoward offering alland of the industry’s favorite shades in lacent stretchability amazing performance and shaping ser-sensitive recipes. of the body. It is fit to be offered in three sizes: small (0-4), medium (6-10) and large (12-16). On how the mill is responding to clients’ requests: Conscious brands are wanting to see more innovation in sustainable denim while still keeping their consumers’ aesthetics and price points in mind. AFM has an advantage here with our in-house recycling plant and expertise in sustainable dyeing and finishing, so we can offer a lot of price-neutral sustainable features. In terms of trends, we are looking at faded lighter shades, super soft hand-feels and comfort stretches. On addressing consumer needs: In terms of performance, our fabric offering appeals more to the women’s buyers since there has typically been more room for innovation and creativity in that segment. However, this season we have taken special care to address the changing needs for the men’s buyer, including authentic-looking, lightweight stretch as well as new shades that speak to an evolved male consumer. On how the mill is addressing sustainability: At AFM, all of our fabric developments are centered around sustainable fibers, processes, chemicals and treatments every season.
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On fashion: Everything in fashion is sustainable and circularity oriented. Brands that want to thrive and grow will need to understand that sustainability is no longer just a ‘drop collection,’ but rather a way to operate the entire business. This must be paired with traceability, and of course the more transparency the better. We foresee basics will be very important, but in an elevated and designed way. We will see a rise of different silhouettes on jeans become more and more popular.
On circularity: Our eco-friendly fabric collection, Circl, is a blend of 100 percent recycled cotton yarn made in-house at our new recycled cotton facility at our mill. The collection is made with pre-consumer waste, post-industrial waste and Tencel for added strength and softness. We are offering fabrics in both rigid and comfort stretch. Circl includes a natural undyed version showcasing a beautiful faded natural bluish gray, as well as overdyed and indigo dyed options. On durability: Through a lot of R&D we are creating fabrics that have more performance, better recovery, and enhanced qualities to address the need for durability. We are introducing a larger group of fabrics with dual-core, tri-core and Lycra T400 yarns, as well as testing finishes that provide durable fabrics though cotton, fire-retardant and anti-viral and anti-bacterial finishing.
TIMELESS MODERN-AUTHENTIC COMFORT MILLS / 9
NAME OF MILL TEJIDOS ROYO COUNTRY
SPAIN SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS W W W.T E J I D O S R O Y O . C O M / E N
Reducing waste to the minimum and reusing as much as possible to achieve a circular economy. We are replacing our machinery with more advanced ones that will offer greater energy consumption savings. We are also implementing programs to buy and adapt new machinery thatofwill allow us to reuse Reuse 100 percent production waste inand our reduce own fabchemical products and reuse water soinwe lower rics. Reduce electricity consumption thecan production ourallconsumption of this precious resource. Increase the of our plants, from spinning to finishing. use of sustainable raw materials.
SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS
CERTIFICATIONS CERTIFICATIONS OEKO-TEX 100 Industria Higg IndexLimpia Bureau Veritas OEKO-TEX Standard 100 Higg FEM GRS OCS A sentence if needed. BCI
KEY FIBERS KEY FIBERS Recycled cotton a fiber lyocell Recycled a fiber elastane Recycled a fiber a fiber a fiber
On the F/W 21-22 season: The major themes that Artistic Fabric Mill (AFM) is exploring for F/W 21-22 are deeply rooted in providing essential, season-less fabrics with elevated performance, aesthetic and sustainable characteristics. A few of our key construction highlights this season are: Earthmatic, our family of Cradle to Cradle Gold certified fabrics made using recycled mill waste; and Phoenix— Denim Reborn, which comes in varying weights, colors and compositions and is made that fromcomes recycled waste. On sustainability: Everything outmill of Tejidos We’reisalso launching Biodegradable Stretch; Flexy 3.0, our Royo sustainable. latest iteration of hyper-soft stretch fabrics with low compression; and We ReWeft, which centers a dark blue and On comfort: have created new softon fabrics that imitate black weft recovered from the dyeing range waste. the look and feel of sleepwear. We’re also introducing a range of colors including the Flea Market We range, which reminiscent of authentic On circularity: have beenisproducing recycled fabrics indigo dyedtime. shades found at flea markets. From for a long We typically have increasingly advanced recycling cornflower blues bleached-out (without technologies and to processes based lighter on the shades principles of the the use economy. of actual For bleach) and vintage looks, circular this collection we over-dyed have managed to this range of shades is truly captivating. We also haverecyLadevelop Total Recycled, a fabric made entirely from ser Friendly Shades,cotton, in which we’re gradually progressing cled fibers: recycled recycled elastane and Refibra. toward offering all of the industry’s favorite shades in laser-sensitive On fashion: recipes. Jeans must be designed to adapt to new lifestyles. Durability and versatility will be priorities. New On how the mill is responding to clients’ requests: stretch fabrics will define the women’s market. The men’s Conscious brands are wanting to see more innovation in category, on the other hand, will be straight and ’90s-insustainable denim while still keeping consumers’ spired fits. The world is moving towardstheir a circular econoaesthetics and points in and mind. has an of advanmy. The use of price recycled fibers theAFM production fully tage here with our in-house plant recyclable garments will be arecycling must. The aimand is toexpertise achieve in sustainable dyeing finishing, so weand canforoffer lot a more respectful and and sustainable future, thatasusof price-neutral tainability to be sustainable affordable. features. In terms of trends, we are looking at faded lighter shades, super soft hand-feels and comfort stretches. On addressing consumer needs: In terms of performance, our fabric offering appeals more to the women’s buyers since there has typically been more room for innovation and creativity in that segment. However, this season we have taken special care to address the changing needs for the men’s buyer, including authentic-looking, lightweight stretch as well as new shades that speak to an evolved male consumer. On how the mill is addressing sustainability: At AFM, all of our fabric developments are centered around sustainable fibers, processes, chemicals and treatments every season.
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SUSTAINABILITY INNOVATION COMFORT MILLS / 11
NAME OF NAVEENA MILL DENIM MILLS COUNTRY
SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS
P A K I S Twaste A N to the minimum and reusing as much Reducing Was Wpossible W . N A VtoEachieve E N A D EaNcircular I M M I Leconomy. L S . C O M We are replacing our machinery with more advanced ones that will offer greater energy consumption savings. We are also implementing programs to buy and adapt new machinery that will allow us to reuse and reduce chemical products and reuse water so we can lower our consumption of of this precious resource. Recycle 80 percent water by 2023 and attain 15 percent solar energy by 2025.
SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS
CERTIFICATIONS CERTIFICATIONS OEKO-TEX 100 Industria Limpia GOTS Bureau Veritas UNIFI Higg FEM OEKO-TEX C2C A sentence if needed. GRS
KEY FIBERS KEY FIBERS Lycra T400 a fiber Viscose a fiber CiCLO a fiber Roica a fiber a fiber
On the F/W 21-22 season: The major themes that Artistic Fabric Mill (AFM) is exploring for F/W 21-22 are deeply rooted in providing essential, season-less fabrics with elevated performance, Our aesthetic andDenim sustainable characterisOn sustainability: Holistic line features a mix tics.sustainable A few of our keyand construction highlights this season of fibers sustainable processes and conare: Earthmatic, our in family of Cradle to Cradle certisiders many factors the design process, suchGold as market fied fabrics made using recycled mill waste; and Phoenix— demand, available technological abilities, consumer trends Denim Reborn, which comes varyinga sustainable weights, colors and brand attitudes. It also uses in Horizon, dyeandand compositions and isthat made from recycledless mill waste. ing finishing process uses 80 percent water, 40 We’re also Biodegradable Stretch; 3.0, our percent lesslaunching energy and 50 percent less steam Flexy in production latest iteration of hyper-soft processes. stretch fabrics comcompared to conventional Our with latestlow concept pression; andmade ReWeft, which centers on Polygiene, a dark blue Stays Fresh, in collaboration with is and also black weft from the dyeing range helping us recovered in our sustainability efforts. Thewaste. fabrics require also introducing a fresh rangeand of odor-free. colors including fewerWe’re washes because they stay the Flea Market range, which is reminiscent of authentic indigo dyed shades found at flea markets. On comfort: We alltypically want to feel comfortable but weFrom also cornflower blues toableached-out lighter shades want to experience level of everyday luxury. We(without want to the use of actual bleach) and vintage over-dyed looks, have agility, resilience, adaptation, versatility and sustainthis range of shades is truly captivating. We also have Laability in what we wear. Wraptech 2.0 technology meets ser Friendly Shades,ininjeans which we’re progressing these expectations that are gradually high-stretch and that towardtheir offering of the industry’s favorite shades laretain shapealland fit over time. The flexibility of in Lycra ser-sensitive fibers and therecipes. recovery of Lycra T400 fiber means these are jeans that you can wear as loungewear or outerwear. On how the mill is responding to clients’ requests: Conscious brands are wanting to see more innovation in sustainable denim while still keeping their consumers’ aesthetics and price points in mind. AFM has an advantage here with our in-house recycling plant and expertise in sustainable dyeing and finishing, so we can offer a lot of price-neutral sustainable features. In terms of trends, we are looking at faded lighter shades, super soft hand-feels and comfort stretches. On addressing consumer needs: In terms of performance, our fabric offering appeals more to the women’s buyers since there has typically been more room for innovation and creativity in that segment. However, this season we have taken special care to address the changing needs for the men’s buyer, including authentic-looking, lightweight stretch as well as new shades that speak to an evolved male consumer. On how the mill is addressing sustainability: At AFM, all of our fabric developments are centered around sustainable fibers, processes, chemicals and treatments every season.
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AGILITY RESILIENCE ADAPTATION On circularity: We have created a circular system enabling us to recover textile waste both from our own production and third parties and use it to produce new fabrics. Thanks to our in-house shredding system with a capacity of 5 tons per day, we collect the cotton waste and add it back to the manufacturing process. Cotton recycling offers vast opportunities for savings in the use of raw materials, energy, water and chemicals. We are also working with the Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Jeans Redesign project, an NGO created to develop and promote circularity. On durability: Our Wraptech 2.0 and Stays Fresh innovations promote a longer lifecycle for denim. Consumers wash their jeans for two main reasons: they lose their shape, or they lose their freshness. These innovations address both pain points and allow the consumer to go longer without washing, which in turn reduces their environmental impact and extends their denim’s lifecycle. On fashion: Ultra-soft denim and everyday luxury will be top trends considering the current climate.
MILLS / 13
NAME OF MILL CANDIANI COUNTRY I TA LY WSUSTAINABILITY W W . C A N D I A N I DTARGETS ENIM.IT Reducing waste to the minimum and reusing as much as possible to achieve a circular economy. We are replacing our machinery with more advanced ones that will offer greater energy consumption savings. We are also implementing programs View Sustainability Report to buy and adapt new machinery that will allow us to reuse and reduce chemical products and reuse water so we can lower our consumption of this precious resource.
SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS
CERTIFICATIONS ISO 14001:2004
CERTIFICATIONS SA 8000 ZDHC OEKO-TEX 100 DETOX Industria Limpia Higg Index Bureau Veritas GRS Higg FEM OCS GOTS A sentence if needed. BCI OEKO-TEX EN13432-2000
KEY FIBERS KEY FIBERS
a fiber a fiber This collection focuses on renewable resources and a fiber biodegradable materials. We are offering a selection fiber with recycled and hemp fibers, and smart of afabrics a fiber elastomers.
On the F/W 21-22 season: The major themes that Artistic Fabric Mill (AFM) is exploring for F/W 21-22 are deeply rooted in providing essential, season-less fabrics with elevated performance, aesthetic and sustainable characteristics. A few of our key highlights thisour season On sustainability: Weconstruction are continuing to highlight patare: Earthmatic, familyour of Cradle toto Cradle Gold certiented technologyour Coreva, solution the global probfied madeoverproduction. using recycled mill waste; andworld’s Phoenix— lem fabrics of garment Coreva is the first Denim Reborn, which comes in uses varying weights, colors compostable stretch denim that a GOTS-approved, and compositions and is made recycled waste. plant-based yarn obtained from from natural rubbermill to replace We’re also petrol-based launching Biodegradable Stretch; Flexy 3.0, our synthetic, yarns. This technology allows for latest iteration of hyper-soft stretch fabrics with low comincredible sustainable benefits without compromising the pression; and ReWeft, centers on ajeans. dark blue and elasticity, aesthetic, andwhich durability of your black weft recovered from the dyeing range waste. We’re alsoWeintroducing a range on of acolors On comfort: have been working wholeincluding new levthe Market range, which is reminiscent authentic el ofFlea comfort with the combination of Corevaofand unique indigo shades typically found at flea From weaves dyed and constructions. This concept is allmarkets. about natural cornflower bleached-out lighter shades (without comfort, notblues just to because we are looking at the only biothe use ofbiodegradable actual bleach)stretch and vintage over-dyed looks, based and ingredient on the market, this rangebecause of shades truly captivating. also have but also we is managed to create aWe different typeLaof ser Friendly Shades, in whichthat we’re gradually smoothness. It’s an elasticity no longer feelsprogressing forced and toward offering of theadapts industry’s favorite shades in laconstraining, butallsimply to the body with a much ser-sensitive more naturalrecipes. feel. On how the mill is responding to clients’ requests: Conscious brands are wanting to see more innovation in sustainable denim while still keeping their consumers’ aesthetics and price points in mind. AFM has an advantage here with our in-house recycling plant and expertise in sustainable dyeing and finishing, so we can offer a lot of price-neutral sustainable features. In terms of trends, we are looking at faded lighter shades, super soft hand-feels and comfort stretches.
VISIONARY REVOLUTIONARY NEEDED
On addressing consumer needs: In terms of performance, our fabric offering appeals more to the women’s buyers since there has typically been more room for innovation and creativity in that segment. However, this season we have taken special care to address the changing needs for the men’s buyer, including authentic-looking, lightweight stretch as well as new shades that speak to an evolved male consumer. On how the mill is addressing sustainability: At AFM, all of our fabric developments are centered around sustainable fibers, processes, chemicals and treatments every season.
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On durability: Candiani’s fabrics have always been built to last as they are constructed with nothing but quality ingredients and innovative technologies. It is our belief that a fabric and garment must be durable and long-lasting to be considered sustainable. On fashion: We are looking at thicker yarns and rustic constructions. Additionally, we have been very much inspired by workwear aesthetics. Yes, these are two completely different aesthetics but each equally important for this collection.
On circularity: Our Coreva family has allowed us to achieve real circularity for the first time. The technology has been tested to prove its compostability, in mature compost in less than six months, without releasing the toxic chemicals and microplastics of conventional elastane, in compliance with the EU standard EN13432—offering an eco-compatible, end-of-life solution for stretch denim.
MILLS / 15
NAME OF MILL RAJBY TEXTILES COUNTRY
SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS PA K IS TA N WReducing W W . R Awaste J B Y.toC OtheM minimum and reusing as much as possible to achieve a circular economy. We are replacing our machinery with more advanced ones that will offer greater energy consumption savings. We are also implementing programs to buy and adapt new machinery that will allow us to reuse and reduce chemical products water so we can lower Renewable energy and and reuse carbon neutral products; a green our consumption of thisand precious resource. supply chain; minimum efficient usage of utilities;
SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS
waste control and reuse; and clean water and sanitation.
CERTIFICATIONS CERTIFICATIONS OEKO-TEX 100 Industria Limpia C2C Bureau Veritas GOTS Higg OCS FEM GRS A sentence if needed. RCS OEKO-TEX 100 STeP WRAP BEPI Higg Index a fiber BCI a fiber ZDHC a fiber
KEY FIBERS
a fiber a fiber
KEY FIBERS Refibra CiCLO Hemp Biodegradable polyester BCI Organic cotton
WEBSITE.COM
On the F/W 21-22 season: The major themes that Artistic Fabric Mill (AFM) is exploring for F/W 21-22 are deeply rooted in providingOur essential, season-less fabrics with eleOn sustainability: R&D teams are always researching vated performance, aesthetic and sustainable smart technologies and sustainable processes characteristo optimize tics. production A few of ourwith key construction highlights season our minimum utilities and this chemicals. are: Earthmatic, ourdyeing family and of Cradle to Cradle Our zero-discharge finishing allowsGold us tocertisave fiedtofabrics madewater usingand recycled mill waste; and Phoenix— up 90 percent 30 percent chemicals compared Denim Reborn, which comes in varying weights, colors to traditional processes. and compositions and is made from recycled mill waste. We’re also launching Biodegradable Flexy 3.0, our On comfort: Our FitIN Concept is aStretch; super stretch denim latest iteration of hyper-soft stretch fabricsyarn withtechnology low comcollection developed by using air spun pression; andconstructions, ReWeft, whichwhich centers on the a dark blueextra and and advance gives wearer black weft recovered the dyeing range waste. comfort and ultimatefrom flexibility. We’re also introducing a range of colors including the have Flea Market range,awhich is Ripple reminiscent authentic We also designed range of fabricsofwhich have dyed shades at flea From aindigo cracked rigid look typically from the found ’80s and ’90s markets. with an added cornflower blues tostretch bleached-out lighterToshades feature of invisible for comfort. fill the(without demand the loungewear, use of actual anda range vintage looks, for we bleach) developed of over-dyed fabrics called Vethis range of shades captivating. Wecotton also have lour Concept, whichisistruly made with finest yarnLain ser Friendly Shades, in whichdenim we’re gradually progressing order to provide a premium look and feel without toward any offering allfiber. of the industry’s favorite shades in laadding special ser-sensitive recipes. On how the mill is responding to clients’ requests: Conscious brands are wanting to see more innovation in sustainable denim while still keeping their consumers’ aesthetics and price points in mind. AFM has an advantage here with our in-house recycling plant and expertise in sustainable dyeing and finishing, so we can offer a lot of price-neutral sustainable features. In terms of trends, we are looking at faded lighter shades, super soft hand-feels and comfort stretches. On addressing consumer needs: In terms of performance, our fabric offering appeals more to the women’s buyers since there has typically been more room for innovation and creativity in that segment. However, this season we have taken special care to address the changing needs for the men’s buyer, including authentic-looking, lightweight stretch as well as new shades that speak to an evolved male consumer. On how the mill is addressing sustainability: At AFM, all of our fabric developments are centered around sustainable fibers, processes, chemicals and treatments every season.
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INNOVATIVE SUSTAINABLE TRACEABLE On circularity: Circularity is the future of our industry and a necessity for a greener planet. We’ve worked hard to design a 100 percent closed loop process with a green supply chain to achieve C2C Platinum level fabrics. We are the first and only C2C Platinum certified denim producer in the world. Our Beluga denim made with 100 percent organic cotton is our C2C Platinum certified fabric range. It is 100 percent biodegradable, chemical-free and carbon neutral. We also recently we developed 100 percent recycled fabrics which are getting very good feedback. On durability: To address the demand for durability, we developed the Dexter Concept, which is based on performance fibers and different weaves. This collection also includes fabrics which have water repellent and anti-bacterial finishes. On fashion: Old-school blues and related constructions are still trendy so we added fabrics that are laser and ozone friendly and having a broader range of blue cast.
MILLS / 17
NAME OF ISKO MILL TURKEY W W W.I S KO D E N I M.C O M COUNTRY
SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS Certify 100 percent of products to sustainability labels by 2022; no water or chemical discharge by 2025, and net zero carbon emissions by 2050. Reducing waste to the minimum and reusing as much as possible to achieve a circular economy. We are replacing our machinery with more advanced ones that will offer greater energy consumption savings. We are also implementing programs to buy and adapt Bluesign new machinery that will allow us to reuse and reduce GRS chemical and reuse water so we can lower SteP byproducts OEKO-TEX our consumption of this precious resource. CCS
SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS CERTIFICATIONS
KEY FIBERS CERTIFICATIONS Reused and recycled OEKO-TEX 100 fiber blends. Industria Limpia Bureau Veritas Higg FEM A sentence if needed.
KEY FIBERS a fiber a fiber a fiber a fiber a fiber
On the F/W 21-22 season: The major themes that Artistic Fabric Mill (AFM) is exploring for F/W 21-22 are deeply rooted in providing essential, season-less fabrics with elevated performance, aesthetic and sustainable characteristics. A few of our key construction highlights this season are: our family of Cradle Cradleenergy Gold certiOn Earthmatic, sustainability: Reducing waste,tosaving and fied fabrics made mill waste;while and Phoenix— protecting peopleusing and recycled the environment, reducing Denim Reborn, whicharecomes in varying weights, colors our carbon footprint priorities for Isko. Our most reand compositions and is entirely made from waste. cent collection is created fromrecycled a blend mill of recycled We’rereused also launching Stretch; Flexy 3.0,Our our and materialsBiodegradable using our R-Two technology. latest iteration of hyper-soft stretch fabrics low comR-Two innovations are a commitment to with sustainability, pression; and ReWeft, which centers a dark polyester. blue and using recycled and reused cotton andon recycled black weft recovered frommaterials the dyeing By reusing and recycling werange beginwaste. to reduce our alsodependency introducingand a range of colors including virginWe’re material minimize waste at all stagtheofFlea Market range, which is reminiscent of authentic es production. We have applied our Responsible Innoindigo approach dyed shades typically at fleawhich markets. vation to create thisfound collection has From both cornflower blues tosocial bleached-out lighteratshades (without environmental and responsibility its heart. Incorthe use of actual bleach) and over-dyed looks, porating clever technologies, we vintage offer a myriad of finishes this colors range of shades is truly captivating. also have Laand and state-of-the-art productionWe techniques. ser Friendly Shades, in which we’re gradually progressing toward offering We all of the industry’s shades in laOn circularity: believe durabilityfavorite is the main pillar of ser-sensitive recipes. circularity and Isko commits durability with its innovation technologies that are embedded in all our fabrics. On how the mill is responding to clients’ requests: Conscious brands are wanting to see more innovation in sustainable denim while still keeping their consumers’ aesthetics and price points in mind. AFM has an advantage here with our in-house recycling plant and expertise in sustainable dyeing and finishing, so we can offer a lot of price-neutral sustainable features. In terms of trends, we are looking at faded lighter shades, super soft hand-feels and comfort stretches. On addressing consumer needs: In terms of performance, our fabric offering appeals more to the women’s buyers since there has typically been more room for innovation and creativity in that segment. However, this season we have taken special care to address the changing needs for the men’s buyer, including authentic-looking, lightweight stretch as well as new shades that speak to an evolved male consumer. On how the mill is addressing sustainability: At AFM, all of our fabric developments are centered around sustainable fibers, processes, chemicals and treatments every season.
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SUSTAINABILITY ’80S VINTAGE COMFORT On comfort: We think it will remain important to feel relaxed in the way we dress when working from home, yet still be able to leave the house quickly and feel comfortable and fashionable at the same time. The fabrics in our Isko Comfy collection are soft and with a luxurious touch. Fabrics like Isko BlueJym and Isko FutureFace, with their denim look and the comfort of knitwear, are perfectly suited to this lifestyle. The washes are a mix of the luxury world with metallic finishes on the one hand and the young athleisure world, with eco-bleach and crazy dyes, on the other. On fashion: Comfort will remain a strong trend and without a doubt, sustainability. We’ll also see ’80s vintage, colors and cheerful designs—paying a nod towards optimism and happiness and the future ahead, which we think will be very welcome after this long pandemic.
MILLS / 19
NAME OF MILL SIDDIQSONS GROUP COUNTRY
TARGETS PSUSTAINABILITY A K IS TA N WReducing W W . T Hwaste E S I DtoD Ithe Q Sminimum O N S G R Oand U P.reusing C O M as much
as possible to achieve a circular economy. We are replacing our machinery with more advanced ones that will offer greater energy consumption savings. We are also implementing programs to buy and adapt new machinery that will allow us to reuse and reduce chemical and reuse waterorganic/BCI so we can lower We want products to leverage 100 percent cotton in consumption of this precious our denim by cultivating our own resource. cotton in collaboration with the World Wildlife Fund. We are pivoting to use solar energy and other renewable energy sources more often during the manufacturing process. In our dying process, we strive for ZDHC (zero discharge of hazardOEKO-TEX ous chemicals)100 and already use sulfur-free dyes. Industria Limpia Bureau Veritas Higg FEM
SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS
CERTIFICATIONS
CERTIFICATIONS
A sentence if needed. C2C GOTS The Business Social Compliance Initiative (BSCI)
KEY FIBERS KEY FIBERS a fiber a fiber Hemp a fiber Modal Tencel a fiber spandex Recycled a fiber cotton Recycled
On the F/W 21-22 season: The major themes that Artistic Fabric Mill (AFM) is exploring for F/W 21-22 are deeply rooted in providing essential, season-less fabrics with elevated performance, aesthetic and sustainable characteristics. A few of our key construction highlights this season are: Earthmatic, our family of Cradle to Cradle Gold certified fabrics made using recycled mill waste; and Phoenix— Denim Reborn, which in varying weights, colors On sustainability: At comes Siddiqsons, we use non-convenand compositions and and is made from recycled millrecycled waste. tional fibers like hemp blends of Tencel with We’re also launching 3.0, our elastane and recycledBiodegradable cotton, which Stretch; are key Flexy raw materials latest of hyper-soft stretch fabrics with comfor ouriteration manufacturing process. We also have an low enhanced pression; and ReWeft, which centersnoonsalt a dark and focus on waterless dyeing, releasing in theblue process black recovered from the dyeingofrange waste. in ourweft efforts to follow the principle ZDHC in true spirit. We’rerecently also introducing range of colors including Our mill received thea C2C Gold certificate by folthe FleaCSR Market which is reminiscent of authentic lowing bestrange, practices in denim manufacturing. Solar indigo dyed shades at flea markets. From energy and the use oftypically recycledfound materials within our facility cornflower blues to lighter fabrics. shades (without aid in our mission tobleached-out produce sustainable the use of actual bleach) and vintage over-dyed looks, this comfort: range of shades is and trulysuper-stretch captivating. jeans We also LaOn Jeggings arehave the new ser Friendly Shades, inas which we’re gradually hot items, particularly consumers work fromprogressing home. We toward offering all of the industry’s favoritewhich shades lahave introduced stress-free stretch jeggings, areineasy ser-sensitive recipes. to move around in without feeling compressed by the force of fabric itself. On how the mill is responding to clients’ requests: Conscious brands are wanting to see more innovation in sustainable denim while still keeping their consumers’ aesthetics and price points in mind. AFM has an advantage here with our in-house recycling plant and expertise in sustainable dyeing and finishing, so we can offer a lot of price-neutral sustainable features. In terms of trends, we are looking at faded lighter shades, super soft hand-feels and comfort stretches. On addressing consumer needs: In terms of performance, our fabric offering appeals more to the women’s buyers since there has typically been more room for innovation and creativity in that segment. However, this season we have taken special care to address the changing needs for the men’s buyer, including authentic-looking, lightweight stretch as well as new shades that speak to an evolved male consumer. On how the mill is addressing sustainability: At AFM, all of our fabric developments are centered around sustainable fibers, processes, chemicals and treatments every season.
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COO SUS LOW
I N S E A S O N : F / W 2 21 - 2 23
OL STAINABLE W IMPACT On circularity: Siddiqsons’ most innovative product by our engineers is fabric made with blends of fibers (60 percent hemp, 38 percent recycled cotton and 2 percent recycled elastane) dyed with Indigo H20 (without salt, hazardous dyes and chemicals). This is our best contemporary sustainable 11-ounce denim fabric, which includes 40 percent stretch capabilities with unisex properties. The fabric is superlative for our winter collection. On durability: The 1980s look is coming back. If you look at Siddiqsons, our history dates back with the start of this concept. Our innovation department developed 100 percent recycled cotton fabric that gives a natural “salt-and-pepper” effect. What’s more, the 11-ounce fabric has the feel and durability of 13-ounce fabric, designed with the idea to deliver a long-lasting fabric with low environmental impact. On fashion: We see a crispy look coming up in F/W 22-23, comprised of soft hand-feel fabrics with strong marble character, yet lightweight. In terms of styling, flare, bootcut and loose fit are coming back.
MILLS / 21
NAME OF MILL PROSPERITY TEXTILES COUNTRY
SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS
Reducing waste to the minimum and reusing as much as possible to achieve a circular economy. We are CHINA replacing our machinery with more advanced ones will Wthat WW . Poffer R O Sgreater P E R I T energy Y - T E X consumption T I L E . C O M savings. We are also implementing programs to buy and adapt new machinery that will allow us to reuse and reduce chemical products and reuse water so we can lower our consumption of this precious resource.
SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS
By 2025, our goal is to have sustainably sourced fibers and yarns be 60 percent of our total sourcing, and to increase the amount of water we recycle by 40 percent. OEKO-TEX 100 Industria View Sustainability Report Limpia Bureau Veritas Higg FEM
CERTIFICATIONS
CERTIFICATIONS
A sentence if needed. Bluesign GRS RCS GOTS OCS a fiber OEKO-TEX 100 a fiber SAC a fiber BCI a fiber a fiber
KEY FIBERS
KEY FIBERS
Recycled cotton Tencel Hemp
WEBSITE.COM
On the F/W 21-22 season: The major themes that Artistic Fabric Mill (AFM) is exploring for F/W 21-22 are deeply rooted in providing essential, season-less fabrics with elevated performance, aesthetic and sustainable characteristics. A few of our key construction highlights this season are: Earthmatic, our family of Cradle to Cradle Gold certified fabrics made using recycled mill waste; and Phoenix— Denim Reborn, which comes in varying weights, colors and compositions and is made from recycled mill waste. We’re also launching Biodegradable Stretch; Flexy 3.0, our latest iteration of hyper-soft stretch fabrics with low compression; and ReWeft, which centers on a dark blue and On sustainability: From recycled cotton, to Tencel and black weft recovered from range waste. prodhemp, the fibers we use set the the dyeing stage for a low-impact We’re also collection introducing a range of colors including uct. Our Hemp best demonstrates this emphatheon Flea Marketsustainable range, which is reminiscent of authentic sis natural, materials. Being a non-irrigated indigo dyed found at flea has markets. crop and not shades needingtypically any chemicals, hemp been aFrom Proscornflower blues to bleached-out lighter shades (without perity Textile favorite for many years. Our fabrics feature thepercent use of hemp actualand bleach) and been vintage over-dyed 30 yarns have dyed in Goldenlooks, Blue, range of is truly captivating. also reducing have Laathis vintage lowshades dip pre-reduced indigo, We further ser FriendlyTextile’s Shades,water in which we’re gradually progressing Prosperity footprint. toward offering all of the industry’s favorite shades in laser-sensitive On comfort:recipes. Our Ultra Stretch line feels effortless and silky-soft and taps into the overwhelming demand for comOn how thedenim. mill isThis responding to clients’isrequests: fort-focused latest development based on Conscious brands are wanting to see morecombined innovation in our proprietary C-Blend yarn technology, with sustainable denimdualFX while for stilla non-restricting, keeping their consumers’ low denier Lycra ultra-comaesthetics andstretch. price points in mind. AFM has an advanfortable super tage here with our in-house recycling plant and expertise in sustainable finishing,OnceMore, so we can aoffer a lot On circularity:dyeing We areand introducing cellulosic of price-neutral sustainable features. of trends,with we fiber partly made of recycled textiles.InItterms is combined are looking at faded polyester lighter shades, superand soft hand-feels recycled, degradable by CiCLO recycled cotand comfort stretches. recycled fiber technology without ton, which maximizes compromising on feel and performance. On addressing consumer needs: In terms of performance, our fabric offering appeals moreline to the women’s On durability: Prosperity’s Blue Force aims to add buyers since has typically moreadding room weight. for instrength and there protection to denimbeen without novation creativity in that segment. We offer aand premium durable denim with However, Dyneema, this the season we have taken special care totoaddress changing world’s strongest fiber. Compared a 100 the percent cotneeds for the men’s including authentic-looking, ton fabric of the samebuyer, weight, our fabric using 8 percent lightweightresults stretchinas100 wellpercent as newbetter shadesanti-abrasion that speak toand an Dyneema evolved maleincreased consumer. 200 percent strength. the mill is addressing sustainability: AFM, all On how fashion: Comfort is taking on a whole new At level of imof our fabric developments are need centered around sustainable portance today. But while the for comfort is increasfibers, chemicals and treatments season. ing, so processes, are expectations for sustainability. Theevery industry will need to answer to both demands to appeal to the new consumer mindset.
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DEGRADABLE RECYCLED STRETCH MILLS / 23
NAME OF MILL CONE DENIM COUNTRY
MEXICO & CHINA WSUSTAINABILITY W W . C O N E D E N I TARGETS M.COM Reducing waste to the minimum and reusing as much as possible to achieve a circular economy. We are replacing our machinery with more advanced ones that will offer greater energy consumption savings. We are also implementing programs to buy and adapt An essential part of our future vision is aligned with new machinery that will allow us to reuse and reduce making an impact on each UN Sustainable Development chemical products and reuse water so we can lower Goal. Cone’s water conservation initiative focuses on our consumption of this precious resource. Goal number 6: Clean Water and Sanitation. Cone’s parent company Elevate Textile and its brands have affirmed their commitment to the SDG’s through participating in the UN Global Compact and CEO Water Mandate targets. OEKO-TEX 100By publicly reporting our water usage progress, we’re driving improvements within our proIndustria Limpia cesses andVeritas becoming more transparent within the denim Bureau community. Higg FEM
SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS
CERTIFICATIONS
View Sustainability Report A sentence if needed.
CERTIFICATIONS KEY FIBERS Each Cone Denim mill has Organic Content Standard and Recycled Content Standard certifications for tracea fiber ability on sustainable materials. We also partner with a fiber Oritain, the product and supply chain traceability spea fiber cialist, for verification of origin audits. All Cone Denim a fiber mills also submit a wide variety of our product lines for a fiber annual OEKO-TEX Standard 100 certification.
KEY FIBERS Organic cotton Hemp Tencel Recycled cotton CiCLO Roica Lycra EcoMade
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On the F/W 21-22 season: The major themes that Artistic Fabric Mill (AFM) is exploring for F/W 21-22 are deeply rooted in providing essential, season-less fabrics with elevated performance, aesthetic and sustainable characteristics. A few of our key construction highlights this season On sustainability: Sustainability should be achievable and are: Earthmatic, family of Cradle to Cradle Gold certiaccessible for allour brands. The F/W 22-23 collection is defied fabrics recycled mill waste; and Phoenix— signed withmade moreusing mindful ingredients that allow brands to Denim which comes in weights, have theReborn, options that contribute to varying the bigger picture colors of susand compositions andaistier made from recycled mill waste. tainability. By creating of sustainable denim products, We’re also launching Flexy our brands across varyingBiodegradable levels of priceStretch; can make an3.0, impact latestfits iteration of hyper-soft stretchand fabrics with low comthat into their design direction economics without pression; and ReWeft, which centers on a darkreflects blue and sacrificing quality or aesthetics. The collection the black weftof recovered the dyeing range waste. evolution new rawfrom materials that contribute to circularWe’re also contemporary introducing a denim range of colors including ity and features manufacturing prothe Flea range, which reminiscent of authentic cess suchMarket our installation of G2 is Ozone Flash Finish globally. indigo dyed shades typically found at flea markets. From cornflower blues to bleached-out lighter shades (without On comfort: We understand that comfort can be interpretthe of ways. actualWe bleach) and vintage over-dyed looks, ed inuse many have looked at how we can make high this range of shades is truly captivating. also havewith Lastretch fabric more comfortable and less We constricting ser Shades, which In we’re gradually progressing softFriendly sustainable fiberinblends. contrast, we are working toward offering allwith of thea industry’s favoritefibers shades in exlawith rigid fabrics focus on natural and ser-sensitive perimenting recipes. with sustainable fiber blends such as Tencel, Tencel Modal, hemp and organic cotton. We understand On how the mill is responding to denim clients’ requests: the importance of keeping an iconic look and we Conscious are wanting to see more innovation in address thisbrands by offering some heavier to mid-weight rigid sustainable denim with whilea still keeping consumers’ fabrics engineered more relaxedtheir construction so aesthetics pointsdenim in mind. has an advanthat you getand thatprice authentic look.AFM Think coarser twill tage recycling wear plant that and is expertise lines,here but with with our softin-house and comfortable perfect in sustainable and modern finishing, so we can offer a lot across straight,dyeing loose, and workwear silhouettes. of price-neutral sustainable features. In terms of trends, we are looking at faded lighter shades, super soft hand-feels and comfort stretches. On addressing consumer needs: In terms of performance, our fabric offering appeals more to the women’s buyers since there has typically been more room for innovation and creativity in that segment. However, this season we have taken special care to address the changing needs for the men’s buyer, including authentic-looking, lightweight stretch as well as new shades that speak to an evolved male consumer. On how the mill is addressing sustainability: At AFM, all of our fabric developments are centered around sustainable fibers, processes, chemicals and treatments every season.
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On fashion: We see the appetite for authentic, iconic American denim continuing, the desire to be comfortable staying, and the need to be transparent (and having that information available to the final consumer) remaining important. We see visual texture and coarse and bold twill lines being important across unisex fits from slim to looser fits. Bright, clean and optimistic color and indigo shades will contrast with supersaturated inky blue and blacks. We see others trending back to clean and simplistic undyed ecru fabrics, reflecting a global shift toward elevated and iconic classics with sustainable processes that fit into today’s lifestyle.
On circularity: We are excited to introduce Reyes, a fabric that is created using a unique approach to reclaim our raw material waste. This fabric is a blend of sustainable and ethically sourced hemp, Tencel Modal and cotton dyed with what we call the Indigo Revive process. We partnered with an innovative yarn maker who takes our plant’s dye waste and recycles it creating a new dyed yarn. This eliminates a dye process that contributes to an overall water savings of approximately 63 percent. The Reyes fabric has great drape, texture and softness that comes from blending the Tencel and Modal fibers, making it an ideal fabric for fashion and looser unisex silhouettes. On durability: Denim was intended to be a durable fabric. Today, hemp is an important raw material that offers two-times the strength of cotton, along with all of its other sustainable and natural performance properties. We’re launching a new Cone Denim Hemp collection of fabrics featuring blends of hemp, Tencel and organic cotton, offering modern built-to-last fabrics with sustainable attributes. Our idea is to create a modern take on the historical work wear fabrics.
MINDFUL FUTURE LIFESTYLE MILLS / 25
NAME OF ADVANCE MILL DENIM COUNTRY
CHINA W W W. A D VA N C E D E N I M . C O M
SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS
Reducing waste to the minimum and reusing as much as possible to achieve a circular economy. We are replacing our machinery with more advanced ones that willprojecting offer greater energy consumption savings. We are 90 percent of all fibers used to be We are also implementing programs to buy and adapt green fibers by 2023. We want to reduce carbon emisnew thatby will2030, allowand us to and reduce sionsmachinery by 30 percent wereuse are expanding out chemical products and to reuse waterwater so wesavings. can lower Big Box dying capacity increase our consumption of this precious resource.
SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS
CERTIFICATIONS CERTIFICATIONS GOTS OEKO-TEX ISO 14001 100 Industria Limpia OEKO-TEX 100 Bureau Veritas NRDC Higg CleanFEM by Design RCS A sentence if needed. GRS Organic OCS
KEY KEY FIBERS FIBERS a fiber Cotton a fiber cotton Recycled a fiber Refibra a fiber Tencel a fiberEcoMade Lycra Hemp
On the F/W 21-22 season: The major themes that Artistic Fabric Mill (AFM) is exploring for F/W 21-22 are deeply rooted in providing We essential, season-less fabrics eleOn sustainability: will continue to grow ourwith Big Box vated performance, aesthetic andrevolutionary sustainable characterisdyeing capacity, which is our indigo dye tics. A few ourone key big construction season system thatofuses box to dyehighlights instead ofthis 8-13 boxare:inEarthmatic, our family of Cradle to also Cradle Gold es traditional indigo dyeing. Big Box saves up certito 98 fied fabrics made using recycled mill waste; anddyeing. Phoenix— percent of the water used in traditional indigo The Denim sustainable Reborn, which varying weights, colors newest storycomes is our in BioBlue indigo dye system and naturally compositions and is indigo made without from recycled mill waste. that dyes liquid using harmful soWe’re hydrosulfite, also launching Biodegradable Flexy 3.0, our dium a toxic chemical Stretch; used to reduce indigo latesta iteration of hyper-soft fabrics low cominto soluble form. Sodium stretch hydrosulfite is with flammable and pression; and ReWeft, which on aItdark blue and extremely unstable to store andcenters transport. is also notoriblack hard weft recovered the dyeing waste. BioBlue ously to removefrom the sodium fromrange wastewater. We’re alsointo introducing a rangeform of colors including reduces indigo a water-soluble without the use theharmful Flea Market range,for which is reminiscent of authentic of chemicals a cleaner, more environmentally indigo dyed shades typically found at flea markets. From friendly indigo dye process. cornflower blues to bleached-out lighter shades (without the comfort: use of actual bleach) andhas vintage looks, On Advance Denim alwaysover-dyed been focused on this range of shades is truly captivating. We also havespinLacomfort mixed with authenticity. We have innovated ser Friendly Shades, which Peach we’re that gradually progressing ning methods such asinMerino gives our denim a toward offering allwithout of the industry’s shades in lasoft peached hand the use offavorite brushing or sanding. ser-sensitive We have alsorecipes. added our Freetech stretch technology to our comfort stretch and near rigid styles to give just a little soft On how the mill is responding clients’ requests: stretch without the pinch of a powerto stretch. Conscious brands are wanting to see more innovation in sustainable denim while still keeping their consumers’ aesthetics and price points in mind. AFM has an advantage here with our in-house recycling plant and expertise in sustainable dyeing and finishing, so we can offer a lot of price-neutral sustainable features. In terms of trends, we are looking at faded lighter shades, super soft hand-feels and comfort stretches. On addressing consumer needs: In terms of performance, our fabric offering appeals more to the women’s buyers since there has typically been more room for innovation and creativity in that segment. However, this season we have taken special care to address the changing needs for the men’s buyer, including authentic-looking, lightweight stretch as well as new shades that speak to an evolved male consumer.
VINTAGE INNOVATION SUSTAINABLE
On how the mill is addressing sustainability: At AFM, all of our fabric developments are centered around sustainable fibers, processes, chemicals and treatments every season.
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On fashion: We believe that sustainability will be even more important for F/W 22-23 and we are investing in not just sustainable raw material inputs but investing capital into radical sustainable machinery that [will] forever change the production of denim. Advance Denim sees sustainability as the future, not just fashion. The other important trends for F/W22-23 are wider silhouettes and fashion styles with soft, medium-weight denims with comfort stretch. These are modern interpretations of ’90s fashion infused with performance stretch fibers for a more democratic fit.
On circularity: We continue to partner with global recycling innovators to increase our use of recycled fibers both post- and pre-consumer. Our style QA677L9-1 is an example of this evolution, mixing recycled cotton with Tencel and dyed in the Big Box to create a next-level denim that is not only the ongoing evolution of circularity, but is also soft and comfortable with just the right amount of stretch for vintage wide-leg silhouettes. On durability: The demand for durable styles is a much-needed excitement around quality over quantity. Advance Denim has been a champion of quality product since its inception in 1987—it has never been about cheap and disposable [fashion] but about true vintage styles with built-in cutting-edge innovation.
MILLS / 27
NAME OF MILL BLUE DIAMOND COUNTRY
SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS
Reducing waste to the minimum and reusing as much as C Hpossible I N A to achieve a circular economy. We are replacing our machinery with more advanced ones Wthat WW . Boffer L U E greater D I A M Oenergy N D D E consumption N I M . C O M savings. will We are also implementing programs to buy and adapt new machinery that will allow us to reuse and reduce chemical products and reuse water so we can lower our consumption of this precious resource.
SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS
By 2025, our utilization of recycled waste materials will reach 20 percent and we will reduce total waste materials by 30 percent. By 2030, we’ll increase our use of recycled waste100 materials to 35 percent and reduce total OEKO-TEX waste materials by 50 percent. Industria Limpia Bureau Veritas Higg FEM
CERTIFICATIONS
CERTIFICATIONS
A sentence if needed. GOTS OCS GRS RCS ISO 14001 a fiber ISO 9001 a fiber OEKO-TEX 100 a fiber Higg Index a fiber BCI a fiber
KEY FIBERS
KEY FIBERS Recycled cotton Hemp Tencel Modal with Indigo Technology Refibra Lycra EcoMade fibers
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On the F/W 21-22 season: The major themes that Artistic Fabric Mill (AFM) is exploring for F/W 21-22 are deeply rooted in providing essential, season-less fabrics with elevated performance, aesthetic and sustainable characteristics. A few of our key construction highlights this season are: Earthmatic, ourWizard family of Cradle to Cradle Gold On sustainability: fabrics continue to be ourcertisusfied fabricschampion. made usingItrecycled waste; and Phoenix— tainability uses onemill of the greenest liquid inDenimand Reborn, comes varyingthat weights, colors digos a new which innovative dyeinprocess requires less and compositions andis ispaired madewith fromsustainable recycled mill waste. resources. When this fibers and We’re also in launching Biodegradable Stretch; Flexy 3.0, our processed a sustainable way, it becomes the greenest latest iteration stretch fabrics with low comdenim product of onhyper-soft the market. pression; and ReWeft, which centers on a dark blue and blackfocus weft the recovered from dyeing range waste. Our past year hasthe been on recycled materials and We’re also introducing range of colors including cotton alternatives. We used athis strategy to help launch the FleaModal Marketwith range, which is reminiscent authentic Tencel Indigo Technology with of Lenzing—a indigothat dyed shades found flea markets. From fiber allows us typically to eliminate theat indigo rope dyeing cornflower blues to bleached-out shades (without process, which saves water, energylighter and resources. We also the use of aactual bleach) and vintage over-dyed looks, developed sustainable selvedge collection called Green this rangethat of shades truly captivating. haveproLaSelvedge includesisproducts dyed withWe thealso Wizard ser Friendly Shades, in cotton which and we’recotton gradually progressing cess, as well as recycled alternatives such toward all of the industry’s favorite shades in laas hempoffering and Tencel. ser-sensitive recipes. On how the mill is responding to clients’ requests: Conscious brands are wanting to see more innovation in sustainable denim while still keeping their consumers’ aesthetics and price points in mind. AFM has an advantage here with our in-house recycling plant and expertise in sustainable dyeing and finishing, so we can offer a lot of price-neutral sustainable features. In terms of trends, we are looking at faded lighter shades, super soft hand-feels and comfort stretches. On addressing consumer needs: In terms of performance, our fabric offering appeals more to the women’s buyers since there has typically been more room for innovation and creativity in that segment. However, this season we have taken special care to address the changing needs for the men’s buyer, including authentic-looking, lightweight stretch as well as new shades that speak to an evolved male consumer. On how the mill is addressing sustainability: At AFM, all of our fabric developments are centered around sustainable fibers, processes, chemicals and treatments every season.
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On circularity: To start the cycle of circularity, you have to source recycled or upcycled fibers, and then make them into products that can be recycled and upcycled back into the system. That’s why our fabrics include blends of recycled cotton and Refibra. We’re also trying to skip the dye process by blending natural cotton with pieces of shade and test blankets. Instead of being rope dyed, they are just woven straight into denim fabrics. It’s not for everyone, but for those who understand the process appreciate the recycled products made with less resources. On durability: We are blending cotton and recycled cotton with stronger fibers like hemp and Tencel. We are also looking at the twist construction, stronger diagonal/thicker twill lines, heavier weights and left-hand twill constructions. On fashion: For fashion trends, we are listening and watching the public. It’s not linear anymore, but with many layers. We believe in sustainability, circularity, durability, comfort and a less is more mentality.
HEMP AUTHENTIC REINVENTED On comfort: The definition of comfort has changed. At the start of the pandemic it was mostly stretch knits, but now its shifting to softness and relaxed, oversized fits. We’re focused on looser constructions that are durable with a soft hand—blends such as recycled cotton, hemp and Tencel. For our stretch categories, we use Lycra products for super stretchability and less resistance.
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NAME OF MILL CRESCENT BAHUMAN LIMITED COUNTRY
SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS
Reducing waste to the minimum and reusing as much as possible to achieve a circular economy. We are replacing P A K I S Tour A Nmachinery with more advanced ones that will offer greater energy consumption savings. WWeWare W . also C R Eimplementing S C E N T B A H Uprograms M A N . C OtoMbuy and adapt new machinery that will allow us to reuse and reduce chemical products and reuse water so we can lower our consumption of this precious resource.
SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS CERTIFICATIONS We’re looking to generate affordable and clean energy through alternative resources, with a target to reach 50 OEKO-TEX percent clean 100 energy by 2023. Industria Limpia Bureau Veritas Higg FEM
CERTIFICATIONS
C2C A sentence if needed. GOTS
KEY FIBERS Hemp a fiber Organic a fiber cotton Agraloop a fiber Sisal a fiber Bamboo a fiber
On the F/W 21-22 season: The major themes that Artistic Fabric Mill (AFM) is exploring for F/W 21-22 are deeply rooted in providing essential, season-less fabrics with elevated performance, aesthetic and sustainable characteristics. A few of our key construction highlights this season are: Earthmatic, our family of Cradle to Cradle Gold certified fabrics made using recycled mill waste; and Phoenix— Denim Reborn, which comes in varying weights, colors and compositions and is made from recycled mill waste. We’re also launching Biodegradable Stretch; Flexy 3.0, our latest iteration of hyper-soft fabricsapproach, with low using comOn sustainability: We takestretch a reductive pression; and ReWeft,natural which and centers on a materials dark blue such and traceable, alternative recycled black weft recovered from thewaterless dyeing range waste. as plant-based mineral dyes, dyeing and finishes. also introducing a range of including We’reWe’re also reducing our dependency on colors resources across Flea Market range, which reminiscent of authentic the board, including water and isenergy. indigo dyed shades typically found at flea markets. From cornflower blues to adding bleached-out lighter shades (without On comfort: We’re structural comfort using innothe usematerials of actual bleach) vintage over-dyed looks, vative and yarns. and For example, our Kinetic 360 this range shades is truly captivating. We also have Laseries is a of next-to-skin concept that provides freedom to ser Friendlywith Shades, in which gradually movement Lycra dualFXwe’re technology andprogressing Hyperflex toward performance offering all offabric. the industry’s favorite shadesfiber in lastretch The inclusion of Viloft is ser-sensitive recipes. ultimate comfort and moisture manaimed at providing agement with sustainable features. On how the mill is responding to clients’ requests: Conscious brands are wanting to see more innovation in sustainable denim while still keeping their consumers’ aesthetics and price points in mind. AFM has an advantage here with our in-house recycling plant and expertise in sustainable dyeing and finishing, so we can offer a lot of price-neutral sustainable features. In terms of trends, we are looking at faded lighter shades, super soft hand-feels and comfort stretches. On addressing consumer needs: In terms of performance, our fabric offering appeals more to the women’s buyers since there has typically been more room for innovation and creativity in that segment. However, this season we have taken special care to address the changing needs for the men’s buyer, including authentic-looking, lightweight stretch as well as new shades that speak to an evolved male consumer. On how the mill is addressing sustainability: At AFM, all of our fabric developments are centered around sustainable fibers, processes, chemicals and treatments every season.
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DURABILITY AUTHENTICITY COMFORT On circularity: Our circular initiatives stretch from our use of C2C Gold-certified fabrics to our waterless Naya Denim indigo-dyeing process, and our commitment to manufacturing more cotton-free fabrics blended with hemp and Tencel. On durability: We’re trying to incorporate more natural plant-based fibers with long staple length to improve the strength of the denim. [We’re also using] more antibacterial, anti-odor and stain-resistant fabric so we can reduce both our domestic wash cycle and fiber shedding. On fashion: Fashion and respecting the planet now go hand in hand. Today’s trends are ruled by garments that can be worn 24/7 without any strain. ‘Buy less, wear longer’ is the new ethos of the post-pandemic world.
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NAME OF MILL ARTISTIC FABRIC MILLS COUNTRY
PA K IS TA N SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS W W W. A R T I S T I C FA B R I C M I L L S .C O M
Reducing waste to the minimum and reusing as much as possible to achieve a circular economy. We are replacing our machinery with more advanced ones that will offer greater energy consumption savings. We are also implementing programs to buy and adapt new machinery thatCotton will allow us to reuse and reduce Expand Zero Virgin collection by 2021; close chemical products and reuse we can lower the loop on manufacturing bywater 2022;so eliminate the use ourpolyester consumption this precious resource. of from of product portfolio by 2025.
SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS
CERTIFICATIONS OEKO-TEX 100 ISO 50001:2018 Industria Limpia C2C Gold Bureau Veritas GRS Higg FEM GOTS OCS A sentence if needed. BCI C-TPAT WRAP SEDEX BSCI OEKO-TEX 100 a fiber STeP a fiber Higg Index a fiber
KEY FIBERS
a fiber a fiber
KEY FIBERS Post-industrial waste Post-consumer waste CiCLO E3 Cotton Hemp Tencel True Carbon Zero Tencel Tencel Modal with Indigo Color technology Repreve Lycra EcoMade Thermolite Lycra EcoMade Coolmax Renewcell
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On the sustainability: F/W 21-22 Artistic season:Fabric The major Mills’themes (AFM)that main Artissustic Fabric Mill tainability story (AFM) for isthe exploring seasonfor revolves F/W 21-22 around are deeply water rooted in providing stewardship. One way essential, we areseason-less doing thisfabrics is by with reducing elevateddependence our performance, on virgin aesthetic cotton, and sustainable thus creatingcharacterisan impact tics. in theA water few ofused our to keygrow construction the crop. highlights Another major this season breakare: Earthmatic, through we have our the Triple familyZero of Cradle Technology. to Cradle After Gold thecertisucfied fabrics cess of AFM’s made Double usingZero recycled Technology, mill waste; which and Phoenix— eliminates Denimwater waste Reborn, in denim whichdyeing comesand in finishing, varying weights, we havecolors taken and step one compositions forward and andinnovated is made from a special recycled technology mill waste. that We’re also launching eliminates waste water Biodegradable in denim garment Stretch;laundry, Flexy 3.0,creatour latest ing our iteration Triple Zero of hyper-soft Technology. stretch This fabrics breakthrough with low really compression; brings us and full ReWeft, circle and which maintains centerstheonintegrity a dark blue of water and black weft saving on the recovered fabric end, fromwhich the dyeing oftenrange is netted waste. out in garmentWe’re laundry. alsoLastly, introducing as of 2021, a range ourofeffluent colors treatment including the Flea plant, which Market hasrange, a totalwhich capacity is reminiscent to treat 1.3ofmillion authentic galindigo lons of dyed water,shades is the typically only one found of its kind at flea in Pakistan markets. to From use acornflower Japanese gel blues technology, to bleached-out considered lighter the shades most efficient (without in the industry. use of actual bleach) and vintage over-dyed looks, this range of shades is truly captivating. We also have Laser Friendly which we’re agradually On comfort:Shades, We caninnow achieve soft handprogressing feel on all toward offeringthanks all of to thea industry’s favorite in the laof our articles new investment weshades made at ser-sensitive recipes. spinning level. In addition, our EveryBody range is a collection of comfort and high-stretch denim that caters to On how sizes changing the mill and various is responding body types. to clients’ Like our requests: Flexy ColConscious lection, it features brandslightweight, are wantinghigh-stretch to see moredenim innovation with low in sustainable denim compression and excellent while still recovery. keeping Wetheir haveconsumers’ also develaesthetics oped a range andofprice faux knits pointsand in broken mind. AFM twill has rigidan fabrics advanto tage here cater to more withrelaxed our in-house fits, offering recycling comfort plant and and wearability. expertise in sustainable dyeing and finishing, so we can offer a lot of price-neutral sustainable features. In terms of trends, we are looking at faded lighter shades, super soft hand-feels and comfort stretches. On addressing consumer needs: In terms of performance, our fabric offering appeals more to the women’s buyers since there has typically been more room for innovation and creativity in that segment. However, this season we have taken special care to address the changing needs for the men’s buyer, including authentic-looking, lightweight stretch as well as new shades that speak to an evolved male consumer. On how the mill is addressing sustainability: At AFM, all of our fabric developments are centered around sustainable fibers, processes, chemicals and treatments every season.
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CIRCULAR INCLUSIVE VINTAGE
On fashion: In terms of trends, we are offering a new range of coated fabrics, including various coating technologies, from indigo coating to transparent film. Of course, these are all sustainably finished using our Minus30 process to reduce chemical and energy usage. The beauty of this range of coating at the fabric level is that we can maintain a soft, breathable hand feel without losing the aesthetic. We are also paying close attention to the changing silhouettes that are geared towards gender neutrality. We have a great selection of fabrics coming from our Authentically Yours collection to accommodate all genders, as well as the adult and kids’ markets. These qualities are versatile in shades, content and yarn character to allow for a beautiful range of washing from our own sustainable laundry.
On circularity: Our Anafi fabric from the Undone Collection is made using zero virgin cotton (90 percent post-industrial waste and 9 percent Tencel) and zero dyeing. The fabric features a beautiful light blue shade that is achieved by mixing dyed waste material at the fiber stage. Since the yarn is naturally colored through this process of recycling, it does not need to be dyed again. Skipping the entire dye process creates a water savings of up to 8 liters per meter, several kilograms of dye stuff and energy. On durability: With full control of our supply chain, we closely monitor the quality of our raw materials to create denim that’s durable. However, we are constantly evolving our fabrics to offer better solutions. An example of this is our Zendaya fabric that is dyed using a no-fade reactive blue to maintain the finished look even after multiple washes.
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NAME OF MILL BOSSA COUNTRY
TURKEY SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS WReducing W W . B Owaste S S A to . C the O M minimum .T R and reusing as much as possible to achieve a circular economy. We are replacing our machinery with more advanced ones that will offer greater energy consumption savings. We are also implementing programs to buy and adapt new machinery thatawill allow uslife to reuse reduce We are developing zero-waste cycle and to close chemical products and reuse water so we can lower the loop. our consumption of this precious resource. View Sustainability Report
SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS
CERTIFICATIONS CERTIFICATIONS OEKO-TEX 100 RCS Industria Limpia Higg Index GOTS Bureau Veritas OEKO-TEX OCS ISO/IEC 27001 Higg FEM ISO 14000 BCI, TSE COVID ISO 50001 A sentence if needed.TSE-ISO 10002 ISO 45001 Sedex ISO 9001 Turquality GRS Fairtrade
KEY FIBERS KEY FIBERS a fiber
a fiber CiCLO a fiber Hemp a fiber Biodegradable polyester a fiber Ecovero Lyocell Modal Refibra Organic cotton Recycled cotton Recycled PES
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On the F/W 21-22 season: The major themes that Artistic Fabric Mill (AFM) is exploring for F/W 21-22 are deeply rooted in providing essential, season-less fabrics with elevated performance, aesthetic and sustainable characteristics. A few of our key construction highlights this season are: Earthmatic, ourInfamily of Cradle Cradle Gold certiOn sustainability: our Bossa Caresto collection we handle fied fabrics usingproduction—from recycled mill waste; and Phoenix— every stage made of denim making and dyeDenim comes in varyingdevelop weights,sustaincolors ing the Reborn, fabric, towhich garment finishing—to and compositions and is made from recycled able solutions for garment manufacturers andmill end waste. users. We’reincludes also launching Stretch; 3.0, our This recycledBiodegradable and sustainable fibers,Flexy our Saveblue latest iteration of hyper-soft stretchfinishing fabrics with low comdyeing technology and sustainable and more. pression; and ReWeft, which centers on a dark blue and black weft recovered from the dyeingtorange waste. On comfort: We want consumers feel at home in the We’re also a range styles, of colors including best-feeling jeans.introducing These comfortable however, also the Fleahigh-performance Market range, which is reminiscent of feel authentic include characteristics so they equalindigo dyed shadesastypically found atoutside. flea markets. From ly relaxed at home they are walking Our Xupple cornflower bluesisto bleached-out lighter shades (without Stretch concept a high-elasticity responsive stretch techthe usethat of actual andtovintage over-dyed looks, nology allows bleach) consumers focus on confidence and this range of shades is truly captivating.These We also have feel Lahappiness rather than measurements. fabrics ser Friendly Shades, which we’re denim gradually progressing soft and natural withinan authentic look. Dynamix toward all of thestretch industry’s favorite shades in laby Bossaoffering offers dynamic performance with a blend ser-sensitive of sustainablerecipes. fibers. Thanks to 4-way stretch performance, Dynamix acts like a second skin and features total freedom Onmovement. how the mill is responding to clients’ requests: of Conscious brands are wanting to see more innovation in sustainable denim while still keeping their consumers’ aesthetics and price points in mind. AFM has an advantage here with our in-house recycling plant and expertise in sustainable dyeing and finishing, so we can offer a lot of price-neutral sustainable features. In terms of trends, we are looking at faded lighter shades, super soft hand-feels and comfort stretches. On addressing consumer needs: In terms of performance, our fabric offering appeals more to the women’s buyers since there has typically been more room for innovation and creativity in that segment. However, this season we have taken special care to address the changing needs for the men’s buyer, including authentic-looking, lightweight stretch as well as new shades that speak to an evolved male consumer. On how the mill is addressing sustainability: At AFM, all of our fabric developments are centered around sustainable fibers, processes, chemicals and treatments every season.
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SUSTAINABLE HERITAGE WARM-WHITE
On fashion: We divided the F/W 22-23 collection into four groups. Heritage is a vintage-inspired yet future-looking collection for denim aficionados that captures qualities designed in the old flavor often overlooked by the latest production techniques. Every item in our Winter Relax collection is a technological masterpiece, achieved by construction or different fiber blends. In Stay Smart, designs are suitable for any style— coats or dresses, pants or skirts—with clean, elegant, luxurious concepts. Warm White proves you don’t have to wear muted colors or black all the time in the winter. White can be as warm as a burning light, and a pair of bright white pants in winter can brighten the mood and warm the soul.
On circularity: Our new collection called Future Denim is just that—the denim of the future— and combines sustainable fibers and dyeing techniques. Power-stretch Future Denim is for comfortable, easy styles. It is also 100 percent sustainable, made with a combination of Refibra, recycled cotton, Ecovero, biodegradable polyester and recycled elastane. This 100 percent sustainable article is dyed with a Saveblue technology, offering 85 percent water savings compared to conventional dyeing. On durability: Our Hempy concept is our most durable and sustainable. Not only is hemp the most durable of all the natural fibers, but it’s the most sustainable to grow—no irrigation, fertilization, pesticides, herbicides or chemicals. Hemp requires at least 60 percent less water compared to cotton, has inherent antibacterial properties and is also regenerative. Separately, our Polygiene finish technology maintains jeans’ freshness so consumers can wear them more, wash them less and be climate smart. After the industrial wash, the treatment withstands 15 home washes and the Odor Crunch property keeps things odor-free.
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NAME OF MILL ARVIND COUNTRY
SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS INDIA WReducing W W . A Rwaste V I N Dto. Cthe O Mminimum and reusing as much as possible to achieve a circular economy. We are replacing our machinery with more advanced ones that will offer greater energy consumption savings. We are also implementing programs to buy and adapt new machinery that will allow us to reuse and reduce Sustainability has always been at the of our belief chemical products and reuse water socore we can lower system. The six frontiers for all our initiatives include our consumption of this precious resource. cotton, people, money, energy, water and chemicals.
SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS
View Sustainability Report CERTIFICATIONS
OEKO-TEX 100 CERTIFICATIONS
Industria Limpia Bureau Veritas ISO-9001 RCS Higg FEM ISO-14001 OEKO-TEX ISO-5000 ZDHC A sentence if needed. GOTS SA-8000 GRS WRAP OCS
KEY FIBERS KEY FIBERS
a fiber a fiber Cotton a fiber cotton Organic a fiber cotton Recycled a fiber Post-industrial waste Post-consumer waste Hemp Tencel Refibra Repreve TruTemp 365 Cordura Kevlar Lycra Lycra EcoMade Lycra dualFX
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On the F/W 21-22 season: The major themes that Artistic Fabric Mill (AFM) is exploring for F/W 21-22 are deeply rooted in providing essential, season-less fabrics with elevated performance, aesthetic and sustainable characteristics. A few of our key construction highlights this season are: Earthmatic, our family of Cradle to Cradle Gold certified fabrics made using recycled mill waste; and Phoenix— Denim Reborn, which comes in varying weights, colors and compositions and from recycled milland waste. On sustainability: We isaremade supporting our brand reWe’re also launching Biodegradable Stretch; 3.0,conour tail partners’ endeavors to evolve from being Flexy ‘fashion latest iteration of hyper-soft fabrics with low comscious’ to conscious fashionstretch entities. Collaborations and pression; and centers onasa water dark blue and traceability areReWeft, the keywhich themes, as well stewardblackcircularity weft recovered from the dyeing rangeinitiatives. waste. ship, and collaborative farming We’re also introducing a range of colors including the Flea Market range, which is reminiscent of authentic On comfort: The ongoing pandemic has brought about indigo dyedlifestyle shades changes. typically Superior found at flea markets. From significant comfort is defined cornflower blues to bleached-out lighter shades (without by lightweight, flexible, soft and functional qualities. As an the use of toactual bleach) looks, alternative jeanswear, we and havevintage exploredover-dyed indigo-inspired this range ofand shades is trulyincaptivating. Wecall also have Laloungewear athleisure a category we Infiknity. ser Friendly Shades, in which we’re gradually progressing toward offering all of the industry’s favorite shades in laser-sensitive recipes. On how the mill is responding to clients’ requests: Conscious brands are wanting to see more innovation in sustainable denim while still keeping their consumers’ aesthetics and price points in mind. AFM has an advantage here with our in-house recycling plant and expertise in sustainable dyeing and finishing, so we can offer a lot of price-neutral sustainable features. In terms of trends, we are looking at faded lighter shades, super soft hand-feels and comfort stretches. On addressing consumer needs: In terms of performance, our fabric offering appeals more to the women’s buyers since there has typically been more room for innovation and creativity in that segment. However, this season we have taken special care to address the changing needs for the men’s buyer, including authentic-looking, lightweight stretch as well as new shades that speak to an evolved male consumer. On how the mill is addressing sustainability: At AFM, all of our fabric developments are centered around sustainable fibers, processes, chemicals and treatments every season.
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On durability: Arvind has always stood for highest global quality standards in our products. Durability is a given. We are also working with various supply chain partners on [long-lasting] colors and additional strength through the use of Cordura. On fashion: Sustainability will remain a strong underlying theme, however stronger indoor lifestyle requires redesigning denim for comfort. Indigo-inspired loungewear and functional garments will be important. The new season calls for a re-imagination of the ’80s, an era of arcade and video games.
REDISCOVERED RESPONSIBLE HONEST On circularity: We recently invested in scaling in-house capacity for cotton recycling, which has strengthened our Renaissance product category that uses both post-industrial and post-consumer waste for spinning yarns with a higher percentage of recycled cotton. As a part of our water stewardship efforts, we only use recycled water for our entire denim manufacturing operation.
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NAME OF AGI DENIM MILL PA K IS TA N
W W W. AGI D E N I M.C O M COUNTRY
SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS SUSTAINABILITY Water conservation TARGETS is a goal close to the hearts of our leadership team. In recent years, we have worked Reducing to the minimum and reusing as much towards awaste long-term goal of recycling 65 percent of our as possible to achieve a circular economy. We are water usage. Our latest goal is to recycle 80-85 percent replacing our machinery with more advanced ones of our water. that will offer greater energy consumption savings. We are also View Sustainability Report to buy and adapt implementing programs new machinery that will allow us to reuse and reduce chemical products and reuse water so we can lower our consumption of this precious resource.
CERTIFICATIONS C2C
LEED CERTIFICATIONS GRS RCS OEKO-TEX 100 GOTS Industria Limpia SA8000 Bureau Veritas OEKO-TEX Higg FEM Higg Index SGS A sentence if needed.
KEY FIBERS KEY FIBERS Tencel Lycra a fiberT400 Hemp a fiber Recycled a fiber cotton Organic a fiber cotton Recycled a fiber polyester
On the F/W 21-22 season: The major themes that Artistic Fabric Mill (AFM) is exploring for F/W 21-22 are deeply rooted in providing essential, season-less fabrics with eleOn sustainability: Working with sustainability in mind vated the performance, aesthetic and sustainable from beginning of the process enables realcharacterisproduct intics. A few construction highlights thisand season novation inof theour endkey that transcends seasonal ideas creare: Earthmatic, our family of We Cradle to Cradle Gold certiates enduring product stories. are delivering C2C hemp fied fabrics using waste; and this season made as a key newrecycled idea andmill continuing thePhoenix— evolution Denim Reborn,Zero which in (our varying weights, colors of the Double dye,comes ReFresh recycled water proand compositions and dyeing, is madefabric fromdyeing recycled waste. gram used in garment andmill finishing) We’re also launching Biodegradable Flexy 3.0, our and laser-friendly shades like our newStretch; Easy Blue. latest iteration of hyper-soft stretch fabrics with low compression; and We ReWeft, centers dark blue and On comfort: hear which from many of on oura customers that black weft recovered fromthey the dyeing range waste. Softness our fabrics are the softest see in the industry. We’re also introducing a range colors including is a key attribute throughout our fabricofrange and it is furthe Flea Marketinrange, which is reminiscent of authentic ther enhanced garment finishing in our state-of-the-art indigo dyedAsshades typically found flea markets. laundries. we become more fullyat integrated withFrom our cornflower blues bleached-out (without new spinning milltothis summer, welighter be ableshades to have further the use over of actual bleach) and vintage looks, control yarns that render softer handover-dyed feel. this range of shades is truly captivating. We also have Laser Friendly Shades, whichX we’re gradually On circularity: C2CinHemp our latest fabricprogressing innovation toward offeringorganic all of the industry’s favorite shades lathat combines cotton, sustainable hemp andinelasser-sensitive recipes.materials. We dye the yarns using our tane from recycled Double Zero dye process which eliminates waste water in On dye how the mill is responding to clients’ requests: the process, discharges zero effluents and reduces overConscious brands are wanting to seecompared more innovation in all water consumption by 85 percent to convensustainable tional dyeing.denim while still keeping their consumers’ aesthetics and price points in mind. AFM has an advantage here with our in-house recycling plant and expertise in sustainable dyeing and finishing, so we can offer a lot of price-neutral sustainable features. In terms of trends, we are looking at faded lighter shades, super soft hand-feels and comfort stretches. On addressing consumer needs: In terms of performance, our fabric offering appeals more to the women’s buyers since there has typically been more room for innovation and creativity in that segment. However, this season we have taken special care to address the changing needs for the men’s buyer, including authentic-looking, lightweight stretch as well as new shades that speak to an evolved male consumer. On how the mill is addressing sustainability: At AFM, all of our fabric developments are centered around sustainable fibers, processes, chemicals and treatments every season.
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On fashion: We will be seeing a continued interest in authentic denims and true shades that have sustainable innovations built in. There will be a continued interest in stretch innovation, particularly in lower stretch fabrics for straight and looser fits. Lightweight, soft technology and performance-based denims will become increasingly important.
RE-ENGINEERED EMPOWERED REFRESHED On durability: We are addressing durability and longevity through a number of innovations and technologies. From a technical perspective, we have a range of fabrics that withstand abrasion and have stronger tear and tensile strength compared to more conventional fabrics. This is achieved with longer staple fibers like Lycra T400 and Lycra Tough Max. We can also use antimicrobial finishing on garments that allow the end user to reduce home laundering which can help extend the life of the garment. We also have EverRaw denim which retains its original color and shape so that the end consumer can wash their jeans without concerns of shrinkage, crocking or fading.
MILLS / 39
NAME OF ORTA MILL ANADOLU COUNTRY
TURKEY W W W.O R TA A N A D O L U.C O M
SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS
Reducing waste to the minimum and reusing as much as possible to achieve a circular economy. We are replacing our machinery with more advanced ones that will offer greaterthe energy savings. We take the Closing Loop consumption system into action by We are also implementing programs to buy and adapt adopting a whole lifecycle approach to denim manufacnew machinery that will allowdesign, us to reuse and reduce turing, starting from product production, use chemical products and reuse water so we can and end of life, identifying where waste can belower reduced, our consumption of this precious resource. reused or recycled.
SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS
We recently debuted Golden Ratio, our standard for blending pre- and post-consumer recycled cotton and natural fibers. The Golden Ratio achieves the optimum OEKO-TEX 100 balance of these materials to premium denim construcIndustria Limpia tions without compromising their look, feel and longevity. Bureau Veritas Higg FEM We’re also targeting zero waste with our waste management system, where we categorize, collect, separate and A sentence if needed. find new uses for all waste coming out of our production.
CERTIFICATIONS
View Sustainability Report
KEY FIBERS CERTIFICATIONS a fiber a fiber GOTS a fiber OCS a fiber GRS a fiber RCS
OEKO-TEX 100 ISO 14001
ISO 9001 ISO 50001 ISO 27001 ISO 10002 OHSAS 18001
KEY FIBERS Post- and pre-consumer recycled cotton Post-consumer polyester Organic cotton Roica V550 biodegradable elastane Hemp Tencel Lenzing Ecovero Lenzing Viscose
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On the F/W 21-22 season: The major themes that Artistic Fabric Mill (AFM) is exploring for F/W 21-22 are deeply rooted in providing essential, season-less fabrics with elevated performance, aesthetic and sustainable characteristics. A few of our key construction highlights this season are: Earthmatic, our family of Cradle to Cradle Gold certified fabrics made using recycled mill waste; and Phoenix— Denim Reborn, which comes in varying weights, colors and compositions and is made from recycled mill waste. We’re also launching Biodegradable Stretch; Flexy 3.0, our latest iteration of hyper-soft stretch low comOn sustainability: At Orta, we havefabrics a teamwith dedicated to pression; and ReWeft, which centers on a dark blue and efficient resource consumption and waste management. black fromstrategy, the dyeing waste.of our In lineweft withrecovered our material the range first action We’re also introducing a range of colors including waste management is to use our resources efficiently to the Flea Market range, which is reminiscent of authentic eliminate or minimize waste. Then collect, measure, reuse indigo dyed shades foundinatthe flea markets. From if possible and if nottypically dispose them most environcornflower blues to bleached-out lighter shades (without mentally friendly way. We are envisioning a denim future the usecollaboration of actual bleach) andinvintage over-dyed where is enabled every step from thelooks, farm this range of shades is truly captivating. We also have Lato one’s fashion closet and circles back. And where denim ser Friendly Shades, in which we’re gradually progressing leads fashion’s leadership in climate action and build a toward offering all ofthat the enables industry’s favorite shades life in lawaste-free ecosystem a longer, healthier ser-sensitive recipes. for us and the planet. On how the mill is responding to clients’ requests: Conscious brands are wanting to see more innovation in sustainable denim while still keeping their consumers’ aesthetics and price points in mind. AFM has an advantage here with our in-house recycling plant and expertise in sustainable dyeing and finishing, so we can offer a lot of price-neutral sustainable features. In terms of trends, we are looking at faded lighter shades, super soft hand-feels and comfort stretches. On addressing consumer needs: In terms of performance, our fabric offering appeals more to the women’s buyers since there has typically been more room for innovation and creativity in that segment. However, this season we have taken special care to address the changing needs for the men’s buyer, including authentic-looking, lightweight stretch as well as new shades that speak to an evolved male consumer. On how the mill is addressing sustainability: At AFM, all of our fabric developments are centered around sustainable fibers, processes, chemicals and treatments every season.
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digo Flow, a clean process where it is possible to achieve up to 70 percent reduced water usage, better dye penetration and energy saving as no heat is needed for fixing. On durability: With our Immortalist family concept, Orta is deeply rooted in protective endurance with antibacterial, antiviral protection and smart performance. For everyday protection, denim as a daily, functional, and long-lasting clothing option will be at the center of the protective fashion product choices.
ART SUSTAINABILITY TECHNOLOGY
On fashion: We focused on three main trends for F/W 22-23: modern vintage looks; comfort and softness; and sustainable, natural dyes with earthy colors.
On comfort: Our Scenic Route collection includes new fabric innovations that are less stressful on the farming and cultivating of natural fibers like cotton, and more eco-engineered and climate friendly to deliver amazing comfort, softness and performance. On circularity: Adapting circularity into our processes is our priority each season, and since 2019 we have focused on biodesign. We are taking nature’s lead and exploring the symbiosis between science and design that promises to inspire a wider variety of visionary processes and systems then any individual discipline could develop alone. We are following two approaches for circularity: using recycled materials in production and creating recyclable fabrics. Material-wise, we have blends containing recycled cotton, recycled polyester and Tencel x Refibra. We combine responsible raw materials with In-
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NAME OF MILL SOORTY COUNTRY
PA K IS TA N WSUSTAINABILITY W W . S O O R T Y. C TARGETS OM Reducing waste to the minimum and reusing as much as possible to achieve a circular economy. We are replacing our machinery with more advanced ones that will offer greater energy consumption savings. We implementing programs to buytoand adapt We are are also developing a zero-waste life cycle close new machinery that will allow us to reuse and reduce the loop. chemical products and reuse water so we can lower of this precious resource. our consumption View Sustainability Report
SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS
CERTIFICATIONS C2C OEKO-TEX 100 Industria Limpia LEED Bureau Eco Passport Veritas by OEKO-TEX Higg FEM AWS OEKO TEX A sentence if needed. OCS GOTS GRS BCI ZDHC Higg Index a fiber CleanChain a fiber REACH a fiber ISO 9001:2015 a fiber 14001:2015 a fiber 45001:2016 SA800 IMS
KEY FIBERS
KEY FIBERS Tencel EcoVero Refibra CiCLO Lycra Linen Post-consumer waste Hemp
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On the F/W 21-22 season: The major themes that Artistic Fabric Mill (AFM) is exploring for F/W 21-22 are deeply rooted in providing essential, season-less fabrics with elevated performance, aesthetic and sustainable characteristics. A few of our key construction highlights this season are: Earthmatic, our family of Cradle to Cradle Gold certified made using mill waste; and Phoenix— On fabrics sustainability: Werecycled are revising outdated traditions. Denim which comes in varying weights, This willReborn, be our second seasonless collection, whichcolors we’ve and compositions andwith is made recycled millIt waste. designed and curated real from people in mind. is fluWe’re also launching Biodegradable Stretch; Flexy 3.0, our id, timeless and on time. With our collection, Connect to latest iteration of hyper-soft stretch fabrics with low comAdapt, we are building an all-inclusive approach to denim pression; ReWeft, which centers seasonless on a dark and blueinnoand and jeans.and It is sustainable, genderless, black weft from themade dyeing waste. vative. It is recovered made by humans, forrange humans. We’re also introducing a range of colors including the comfort: Flea Market which is reminiscent of authentic On Werange, have two concepts with comfort at their indigoWe’re dyedbuilding shades typically found at flea markets. From core. on our first loungewear capsule colleccornflower to bleached-out lighter the shades tion that weblues launched last year. It reflects new(without at-home the use of actual bleach) and vintage over-dyed looks, style—cozy and comfortable—and we achieve it through this blends range oflike shades is truly captivating. We post-consumalso have Laeco hemp, Tencel, EcoVero and serwaste. Friendly which iswe’re gradually progressing er TheShades, second in concept Resycn, our adaptive jeans toward offeringthe all industry’s of the industry’s favorite shades in inlathat minimize waste and is step toward ser-sensitive recipes. clusive fashion. With 100 percent stretch capacity, easy stretch and unusual recovery levels, it holds and sculpts the On how the not millcompress. is responding to clients’ requests: body but does Conscious brands are wanting to see more innovation in sustainable denimWe’ve whilebeen still producing keeping their consumers’ On circularity: products with aesthetics and price in mind. AFM has content an advanpost-consumer wastepoints and post-industrial waste for here with our in-house recycling expertise atage while now. We’ve started the journeyplant with 5and percent, but in sustainable dyeing and finishing, so been we can offer a the lot through trials and experimenting we’ve increasing of price-neutral sustainable features. In terms of trends, we ratio without compromising the quality, strength and hand are looking at faded lighter R&D shades, superonsoft hand-feels feel. We are now conducting studies products with andpercent comfort stretches. 50 and 100 percent recycled fiber content. Our goal here is to make recycling and products with recycled conOn the addressing consumer of perfortent new normal. We wantneeds: them toInbeterms accessible to the mance, our offering appeals more to the women’s market. Thefabric industry has long been contributing to the buyers sinceisthere typically been more room for inlandfills—it time has to change things around. novation and creativity in that segment. However, this season we have taken special to address On durability: Designing forcare purpose is ourthe keychanging to truly needs forand thesustainable men’s buyer, including authentic-looking, circular goods. Considering the life cycle lightweight well aswhen new being shadesdesigned, that speak to an of a productstretch beginsas already product evolved male consumer. development holds a vital role in producing durable and long-lasting products. Season-less collections are part of On how mill is addressing sustainability: At AFM, all this new the equation. of our fabric developments are centered around sustainable fibers, processes, chemicalsconsumption and treatments On fashion: Responsible will every guide season. trends. Consumers want to look good, but they don’t want their choices to threaten the environment and the future. Along with recycled and regenerative fibers, we expect to see mood boosting colors and calming tones, elevated simplicity and textures.
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NAME OF ARTISTIC MILL MILLINERS COUNTRY
PA K IS TA N W W W. A R T I ST I C M I L L I N E R S.C O M
SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS
Reducing waste to the minimum and reusing as much as possible to achieve a circular economy. We are replacing our machinery with more advanced ones that will offer greaterofenergy By 2023, 15 percent powerconsumption consumptionsavings. will be We are also implementing programs to buyalland adapt sourced from renewable energy. By 2025, products newcontain machinery will allow us tocotton reuse and and all reduce will 5-20that percent recycled major chemical products and so wedischarge. can lower mills and laundries will reuse attainwater zero liquid our consumption of this precious resource. View Sustainability Report
SUSTAINABILITY TARGETS
CERTIFICATIONS CERTIFICATIONS OEKO-TEX 100 C2C GoldLimpia Industria Fair Trade International Bureau Veritas GOTS Higg FEM GRS A sentence if needed.
KEY FIBERS Tencel KEY FIBERS
Biodegradable elastane Hemp a fiber Recycled a fiber cotton a fiber a fiber a fiber
On the F/W 21-22 season: The major themes that Artistic Fabric Mill (AFM) is exploring for F/W 21-22 are deeply rooted in providingOur essential, with eleOn sustainability: goal isseason-less to go abovefabrics and beyond the vated performance, aesthetic andtosustainable standard sustainability practices make a realcharacterisdifference. tics. Apeople few ofwant our key construction highlights this farm season More to know what happens between to are: Earthmatic, ourmany familybrands of Cradle Cradle Gold fashion, and while andtosuppliers havecertitried fiedaddress fabricsthis made using recycled mill waste; andofPhoenix— to and bring more visibility, most the value Denimremains Reborn,invisible. which comes in varying weights, colors chain Our Milliner Cotton initiative has compositions is made from quo. recycled waste. aand huge potential toand change the status The mill program is We’re alsotolaunching Biodegradable Stretch; 3.0, our designed ensure that organic cotton data Flexy is immutable latest iteration of hyper-soft stretch fabrics with low comso there’s no chance of counterfeiting. Blockchain is going pression; andchanger, ReWeft,offering which greater centersvisibility on a dark blue and to be a game to upstream black weft recovered supply chain players.from the dyeing range waste. We’re also introducing a range of colors including the comfort: Flea Market range, which soft is reminiscent of authentic On We’re applying fibers like Tencel to our indigo dyed shadestechniques. typically found at flea markets. From own fabric-making Additionally, we are adding cornflower blues of to stretch bleached-out lighter to shades (without greater amounts to our fabrics achieve maxithe use of actual bleach) and vintage over-dyed looks, mum comfort. this range of shades is truly captivating. We also have Laser Friendly Shades, in which gradually On circularity: Assisi is our we’re flagship circularprogressing fabric. It’s towardofoffering all of the industry’s favorite in lamade 100 percent recycled cotton taken shades from indusser-sensitive recipes. trial waste and post-industrial waste. Since the yarn has a mélange look, we have skipped the dyeing process altoOn how the finishing mill is responding toO3 clients’ requests: gether. Fabric is done using gas, minimizing Conscious brands are wanting to see innovation in water use by 90 percent compared to more a regular fabric finsustainable denim while still keeping their consumers’ ishing process. aesthetics and price points in mind. AFM has an advantage here with our in-house recycling plant and expertise in sustainable dyeing and finishing, so we can offer a lot of price-neutral sustainable features. In terms of trends, we are looking at faded lighter shades, super soft hand-feels and comfort stretches. On addressing consumer needs: In terms of performance, our fabric offering appeals more to the women’s buyers since there has typically been more room for innovation and creativity in that segment. However, this season we have taken special care to address the changing needs for the men’s buyer, including authentic-looking, lightweight stretch as well as new shades that speak to an evolved male consumer. On how the mill is addressing sustainability: At AFM, all of our fabric developments are centered around sustainable fibers, processes, chemicals and treatments every season.
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TIM MO CO
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MELESSNESS ODERN-AUTHENTIC OMFORT On durability: We are one of the pioneers of Cordura fabric, which has 10-times more abrasion resistance compared to conventional cotton denim. On fashion: Relaxed styles like mom and boyfriend fits are gaining popularity. Fabric features like non-stretch or comfort stretch will remain relevant. Consumers will be looking for versatility, sustainability, durability and comfort above all. If we had to define the next F/W trends in simple terms, we’d say pure, clean and simple. People want to feel more connected with nature for healing in the post-pandemic world. They’re looking for more eco-friendly fibers and the nostalgic denim coupled with comfort.
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MOOD INDIGO COVID, COMFORT & DENIM
The extent and duration of denim supply chain disruptions from the global Covid-19 pandemic remains to be seen. But two consumer surveys conducted by Cotton Incorporated during the initial lockdowns last year provide insight into how the pandemic affected consumer behavior and what that may portend for denim demand moving forward. As consumers began adhering to stay-at-home orders, many sought comfort amid the uncomfortable situation. Data from the ongoing Lifestyle Monitor™ survey, conducted in March 2020, reveal 70% of consumers identified cotton as the most comfortable denim fiber to wear. Spandex and polyester met with less favor at 27% and 26%, respectively, and 16% of respondents deemed rayon the most comfortable. This is encouraging for the denim market because denim is, by definition, cotton.
IN SEASON: F/W 22-23
A jacquard weave creates a cloudy appearance on a 100% cotton denim fabric.
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World events continue to influence trends. In uncertain times, consumers not only gravitate towards comfort but also the familiar, and the nostalgic. This is born out by surveys conducted by Cotton Incorporated in March of 2020. According to the Cotton Incorporated “Things to Know About Covid-19 & Consumer Concerns in the U.S.,” more than half of respondents claimed to be cooking more (54%); and eating more comfort food and snacks (52%) than they did prior to stay-at-home orders. Consumers also sought comfort from their apparel; nearly 63% of respondents said they were wearing comfortable clothes more often than they did before the pandemic. During the same month of 2020, responses to the Lifestyle Monitor™ survey revealed that 70% of consumers identify cotton as the most comfortable denim fiber to wear. Given the typical high-cotton content for denim, it is perhaps unsurprising that 71% of consumers surveyed cited denim jeans as their first pick for casual wear. Denim purchasing intentions remained flat from the same time in 2019, with 84% of consumers saying that they planned to purchase the same (69%) or more (15%) denim jeans over the course of 2020.
A layered waistband adds a feminine accent to a pair of utility inspired jeans.
IN SEASON: F/W 22-23
Color Palette Foundational indigo shades are expected to provide a sense of reassurance in colors ranging from dark to vibrant to light. Deep indigo is likely to hold its iconic position and genuine appeal in both men’s and women’s looks. Dark, brilliant blue lends a primary aura, while 90s-inspired mid-blue and a light wash blue round out the mix.
A ruffled collar and cuffs elevate an acid wash denim fabric.
THE LOOK OF DENIM POST-COVID Anticipated denim trends for F/W 22-S/S 23 reflect comfort in the familiar. Such is the case with denim trends for F/W 22-S/S 23, as forecast by the Cotton Incorporated Fashion Marketing team. They foresee a return to traditional denim hues, as well as somber neutrals. The Fashion Marketing team and Cotton Incorporated Product Development and Implementation department, the engine behind the company’s vast FABRICAST™ library of cotton fabric ‘recipes’, have curated a collection of denim constructions and directional photography to that reflect these emerging trends.
IN SEASON: F/W 22-23
Color Palette Neutral shades of creamy white and washed black provide the perfect canvas for a variety of characteristic looks in both fabric and silhouette. Scaled back, minimal approaches as well as dramatic, modern interpretations showcase these understated colors. This season will also likely see a proliferation of brown hues, noticeably in khaki tan and rich, dark brown. The quintessential blank slate, denim continues to shine. Cotton Incorporated FABRICAST™ #7073-1c Archroma EarthColors™- dyed denim featuring neutral, understated colors that work with a variety of silhouettes. CLO- and Browzwearcompatible fabric files available at www.CottonWorks.com
Cotton Incorporated FABRICAST™ # 7148 Showcasing a blank slate denim jean. CLO- and Browzwear-compatible fabric files available at www.CottonWorks.com
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SMALL AND MIGHTY The denim trims category grows toward its sustainable future for Fall/ Winter 22-23. BY ANGELA VELASQUEZ
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o part of garment manufacturing has been left untouched by the effects of the pandemic, including trims companies. Once a sector that was reliant on leather and harsh chemicals and programmed to follow fashion’s quick pace for new novelties, leading trims manufacturers are finding a common ground that calls for better products and processes. Companies have been working toward a leaner and more efficient, responsible and digital model for years, but the unprecedented events of 2020 helped accelerate positive change. “The biggest change that the pandemic has bought for us is an increased interest in sustainability from our brand partners,” said Brian La Plante, YKK (USA) Inc. sustainability lead. “They are speeding up their adoption of our sustainable trim items and requesting new, more advanced developments which lower environmental impacts even further.” The pandemic, said Gloria Crivellaro, Ribbontex export sales manager, revealed how trim companies contributed to fashion’s waste problem. “It showed that there is no need to have many items and products,” she said. “What is important is to have the right products—ones that are comfortable and durable.” Trims are increasingly in tune with societal shifts. Ideas about cultural diversity and genderless design have a significant influence on Cadica Group’s collection, said Carlo Parisatto, the company’s chief marketing officer. Cadica has already begun to present concepts designed around seasonless garments, identity, circularity and “less is better,” to the point where sustainability is no longer concentrated in a dedicated collection as it was the year prior.
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“The pandemic changed our views and shifted the focus to the importance of the essentials, [including] fewer but more durable items, best quality materials and versatile fashion garments. That means reducing the extras to save our planet,” Parisatto said. The value of trims as a branding opportunity remains high, however. Along with buttons, rivets and snaps, Dorlet CEO Thibault Greuzat said clients are requesting metal accents such as a metal plate or another type of “special marker” that can signify the brand of the jeans. Beyond traditional branding, jeans companies are also increasingly seeking ways to educate their consumers on how to care for their garments. In fact, the right trim has the potential to be a gateway to a whole new way of viewing aftercare. The ability to communicate with consumers about conscious wash care, repair and how to give a garment a second life can all be done through trims, said Amy Lee, Avery Dennison senior trends and insights manager. Avery Dennison achieves this through Atma.io, a platform that
assigns a unique ID to garments that can provide end-toend transparency by tracking, storing and managing all the processes associated with the garment. “This shift has been accelerated by the pandemic, and is really defining the future of branding,” she said. Better ingredients Material sustainability is a key topic that many brands are working to address. “While the bulk of their focus is specifically on the sustainability of denim fabric, brands further along in their sustainability journey are working on reducing the impacts of their trims,” La Plante said. “They are looking for more sustainable textile options for their zipper tapes such as recycled material or natural fibers like organic cotton.” One of YKK’s solutions is Natulon 3Y zippers, a classic metal denim zipper with a recycled polyester tape. The use of the recycled yarn offers a 51 percent reduction in greenhouse gas emissions over a yarn made from virgin polyester. An organic cotton tape offers customers a non-petroleum textile option. For customers looking to reduce their
Demand for labels that are made from cellulose-based jacron, chrome-free leather and 100 percent hemp is ramping up, said Liana Ciprut, Turteks Etiket partner and head of creative and marketing. Turteks Etiket is also experimenting with leather and dye alternatives sourced from organic materials, including patches made from olive waste, cactus leaves and corn-based PU. Coffee waste, meanwhile, serves as a popular dye solution to give materials an antique appearance. Closer to its wheelhouse, the company uses scraps of denim fabric from its clients to upcycle back into new labels and patches. Recycled materials are the way forward for Dorlet, which introduced Global Recycled Standard (GRS) materials to its last collection. The materials will be the “heart” of its next collection, Greuzat said. The finishing of metal components is another area of concern. Customers are asking for low impact non-electroplating options, La Plante said, like YKK’s environmentally friendly metal finishes and AcroPlating, a sustainable finishing technology that conserves water and electricity and reduces greenhouse gas emissions. While standards help companies identify sustainable materials, Greuzat said the trims sector lacks a solution to measure the impact of metal trims—information that clients want to pass on to the end consumer in their marketing. “All [companies] are trying their best to reduce the consumption of water, electricity and chemical use,” he said. “At the moment, there is no universal standard to determine the environmental impact of the metal trims.”
The company’s commitment to sustainability and its 2025 and 2030 sustainability goals enables the team to “think bigger and reach higher, applying our collaborative spirit, passion for innovation and technical expertise to transform our planet,” she added.
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water consumption, YKK also offers Eco-Dye, a waterless dye solution which uses supercritical carbon dioxide instead of water to dye zipper tapes.
Recyclable by design The recyclability of trims is also a hot topic. “Recycled and circular materials are top of the agenda for our clients, as well as mono-materials, which aids recycling through streamlining of materials,” Lee said. Dorlet is putting the lifespan of buttons to the test with its Diabolo concept, a range of buttons that can easily be removed for recycling and reused in a new garment. “One of our main ideas is to make one button that can be used forever by the final customer,” Greuzat said. The company has also designed an easy-to-remove screw-on rivet made with raw material and no plating, making it fully recyclable on its own. Removable and reusable trims are bound to resonate with the global roster of denim brands perusing the Ellen MacArthur’s Jeans Redesign guidelines for circularity. Though metal rivets have been a part of the classic blue jean design since their inception—originally used to reinforce points easily suspectable to wear-and-tear—they have become a point of contention in the recyclability of denim garment.
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Indeed, Avery Dennison has seen how certifications have grown in importance. Data about greenhouse gas emissions, water and chemical usage are some of the key priorities for the company and its clients. “It is no longer enough to make sustainability claims that cannot be backed up with facts and evidence,” Lee said. “Businesses globally are waking up to the cost of inaction, which ranges from missed revenue opportunities, to legislation fines, to low credibility and becoming irrelevant to consumers. In terms of environmental footprint, greenhouse gas emissions, water and chemical usage are some of the key priorities for us and for our partners.”
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Traditional metal rivets are difficult to remove for recyclers. Consequently, larger parts of the upper fabric of jeans are cut off and landfilled or incinerated. Jeans Redesign encourages metal rivets be removed entirely from a garment design (or reduced to a minimum) and prohibits conventional electroplating, a process to coat metal that can generate hazardous wastes and effluent. To satisfy the guidelines, brands like H&M and Tommy Hilfiger have forgone the signature jean trim, relying on stitching to supply the strength and durability that a circular jean requires for a longer life. Dorlet is in contact with the Ellen MacArthur Foundation to become a Jeans Redesign member and help facilitate the removal of trims. With the right design, Greuzat said jeans can be recyclable, maintain the authentic denim look consumers associate with hardwearing jeans and use rivets to increase the life of jeans by reinforcing the strength of pockets. “Our goal is to make jeans in the most sustainable way, and we want to participate in the discussion,” he said. In fact, trims companies may have a bigger seat at the table when industry players eventually come together to evaluate the guideline’s progress—and they’ll come prepared. Avery Dennison is “working directly with the recyclers and NGOs such as Accelerating Circularity that are enabling partnerships between trim suppliers, sorters and recyclers in a drive to find solutions that work for everyone,” Lee said. With demand for removeable trims “on the rise,” Apholos creative director Luciana Botner Vieira said the company developed a screw brass tack button and a sewing button with a ring for brands to use instead of zippers. Cadica plans to launch a new collaboration for a circular project dedicated to denim and Turteks Etiket is “supporting and closely watching” the guidelines and is eager to be a part of related endeavors. YKK is also working on a range of new products designed to work in circular systems, La Plante said. “To make the de-trimming process easier, we have developed a removable jean shank button that can be unscrewed for removal and is available in a wide range of our environmentally friendly finishes,” he said. “We are also working on developing a removable bullet burr using the same concept.” Tre Jackson, YKK (USA) sales manager, added that the company is looking further into a plant-based or woodbased tape material along with the ability to use recycled
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brass, copper and nickel to re-melt and re-use in manufacturing. Though there are many factors that make this a “tough challenge,” it would give YKK the ability to “re-use great quality product that has performed and will not go to waste,” he said.
with “rich soothing colors that mirror the natural world” will be important. “Charcoal and gun metal finishes along with reassuring blues and pale grays, nature-based gold, browns and sage greens will be key colors and finishes,” he said.
Natural appeal Timeless design is intrinsically linked to the longevity of a garment. Jeans Redesign calls it “emotional durability,” or a garment’s ability to stay relevant and desirable to consumers. Though small, trims can enhance its enduring appeal.
Beyond metal hardware, intrigue in natural colors and materials traverses the trims category. Cream, white, orange, gold, blue, dark brown, cognac and brandy make up Ribbontex’s color palette for the season, allowing for “rich” and “prestigious” finishes to stand out, Crivellaro said.
Traditional colors and metals are a shoo-in for seasonless designs. Raw copper and a “tin color” obtained with a stainless-steel base are Dorlet’s top two colors for the season. “We are trying to be as authentic as we can, so we are continuing to explore raw material and all the colorations that we can obtain from it,” Greuzat said.
Traditional-looking labels in shades of brown are key to Turteks Etiket’s vision for F/W 22-23. Natural tones of beige and off-white, matte pastels and natural greens are trending as well. The earthy colors help reinforce the company’s alternative leather stories. One color that you won’t see a lot of in the company’s collection is black, which tends to evoke an edgier and directional feeling that doesn’t align with the current mood for back-to-basics, nostalgic denim.
Apholos is also taking the natural and raw material route. Botner Vieira said copper is proving to be a “big hit” because more people are knowledgeable about the metal’s antimicrobial properties. For F/W 22-23, Jackson said YKK sees a continuation of “simpler, more timeless design.” Matte metal finishes along
“Comfort is the main idea,” Ciprut said, noting that the quality led the company to develop more “classic and basic” labels instead of overdesigned concepts. “The focus is basic finishing, with simple artwork and [a wider range of] different materials.”
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