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IN SEASON F/W 21-22 DENIM & TRIMS LOOK BOOK


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CONTENTS MILLS / 7 Though most collections were formed before the COVID-19 crisis struck, denim mills are prepared to respond to the new world that will emerge from the pandemic with fabrics that put people and the environment first. Biodegradable innovations, Cradle to Cradle certified fabrics and new strategies to reduce waste and conserve natural resources are among the ways mills are scaling sustainability for F/W 21-22. And with a renewed focus on comfort and wellness, mills are ushering in new opportunities in stretch and antimicrobial fabrics— each designed to provide the end consumer peace of mind.

TRIMS / 45 Whereas a new season is typically a time for trim manufacturers to introduce novelties, trim makers expect to see a greater demand for timeless and sustainable designs—qualities that will resonate with the post-pandemic consumer. Trim companies, however, have been readying for this new eco-mindset as denim brands increasingly seek components that will round-out their sustainable product lines.

TRENDS / 51 Innovation, serenity and nostalgia will factor into denim themes for Fall 2020 through Spring 2021 collections. However, as sustainability gains importance with consumers, they will also look at brand trust and image to guide their purchasing decisions.

OUTLOOK / 57 The extent and duration of denim supply chain disruptions from the global pandemic remains to be seen. But two consumer surveys conducted by Cotton Incorporated provide insights into how the unprecedented event has affected consumer behavior and what that may portend for denim demand moving forward.


T H I S PAGE : D O RL E T / COVE R: CAL I K / P H OTO G R AP HY: G E O RGE C HIN SEE / STYLIN G: A N GELA V ELA SQU EZ


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ver the last six months , the denim industry has adjusted to necessary social distancing measures to help slow down the spread of the novel coronavirus. While there are aspects of business that translate to a digital world—be it pivoting to e-commerce, tuning into online events or staying connected to colleagues and clients through video calls—the market has lost an essential element of community and tactility with the cancellation of trade shows. These opportunities to mix and mingle and look and feel have historically been the backbone of the buying season, providing mills with the opportunity to showcase their latest collections, innovations and techniques. These events are a time when new concepts come to life and the industry can muse over new ideas for a fabric that defines the jeanswear market: denim. While the shows may be on pause, the creativity running through the industry certainly is not. “In Season” is a collaboration between Rivet and Cotton Incorporated designed to serve as a substitute showcase for buyers and brands. We

strongly believe a season’s worth of newness and innovation should not go unseen. This Fall/Winter 21-22 denim resource showcases more than 100 denim products, from 27 companies, representing eight countries. Truly international in scope, the look book is a catalog of the latest denim products from businesses both large and small. As strong supporters of the denim category, Rivet and Cotton Incorporated are natural collaborators. Rivet remains a hub for industry news, analysis and insights during this ever-changing time. Cotton Incorporated has in its half-century of operation provided denim-specific trend forecasts, design inspiration and technical assistance to the global denim supply chain. Nothing can replace the energy of a trade show and relationship-building opportunities they represent, let alone the excitement of catching up with old and new denim friends. But it is the hope of Rivet and Cotton Incorporated that this collection of Fall/Winter 21-22 products will help inspire and drive the denim market until we can meet once again.


ARTISTIC FABRIC MILL PA K I S TA N On the F/W 21-22 season: The major themes that Artistic Fabric Mill (AFM) is exploring for F/W 21-22 are deeply rooted in providing essential, season-less fabrics with elevated performance, aesthetic and sustainable characteristics. A few of our key construction highlights this season are: Earthmatic, our family of Cradle to Cradle Gold certified fabrics made using recycled mill waste; and Phoenix— Denim Reborn, which comes in varying weights, colors and compositions and is made from recycled mill waste. We’re also launching Biodegradable Stretch; Flexy 3.0, our latest iteration of hyper-soft stretch fabrics with low compression; and ReWeft, which centers on a dark blue and black weft recovered from the dyeing range waste. We’re also introducing a range of colors including the Flea Market range, which is reminiscent of authentic indigo dyed shades typically found at flea markets. From cornflower blues to bleached-out lighter shades (without the use of actual bleach) and vintage over-dyed looks, this range of shades is truly captivating. We also have Laser Friendly Shades, in which we’re gradually progressing toward offering all of the industry’s favorite shades in laser-sensitive recipes. On how the mill is responding to clients’ requests: Conscious brands are wanting to see more innovation in sustainable denim while still keeping their consumers’ aesthetics and price points in mind. AFM has an advantage here with our in-house recycling plant and expertise in sustainable dyeing and finishing, so we can offer a lot of price-neutral sustainable features. In terms of trends, we are looking at faded lighter shades, super soft hand-feels and comfort stretches. On addressing consumer needs: In terms of performance, our fabric offering appeals more to the women’s buyers since there has typically been more room for innovation and creativity in that segment. However, this season we have taken special care to address the changing needs for the men’s buyer, including authentic-looking, lightweight stretch as well as new shades that speak to an evolved male consumer. On how the mill is addressing sustainability: At AFM, all of our fabric developments are centered around sustainable fibers, processes, chemicals and treatments every season.

Most of our product offerings have recycled cotton fiber, and any article with 5 percent recycled cotton is offered at no additional charge. However, this season, we have deepened our definition of sustainable fibers and are focusing on circularity. Closing the manufacturing loop has become very important at AFM, and we have developed a range of fabrics using post-industrial waste found at the mill, which includes cotton waste, dye waste and chemical waste. Apart from that, we now offer Hydro-free Dyeing, which eliminates the use of toxic chemicals in dyeing and reduces the load on our effluent treatment plant. On performance fibers: Our main goal is to eliminate the use of polyester in our constructions to make recycling easier. As a result, we have increased our dependency on natural fibers this season. We have introduced a biodegradable


IN SEASON: F/W 21-22

stretch and continue to develop our BioYarn range that includes natural fibers such as hemp, soy, linen and bamboo. These are used in combination with more traditional fibers like organic cotton, recycled cotton, Tencel and modal to achieve new blends and better performance. On fashion trends: Our focus has remained on elevating our core denim products and creating innovation to make them versatile so they can be adopted in both fashion and basic styles. On the status of stretch denim: Stretch denim makes up a big part of the jeans business, and it continues to be a part of our collection. Keeping in mind the comeback of the flared bootleg and reimagined skinny jean, we are introducing the Flexy 3.0 series. It comprises of super soft stretch, with little to no compression. The demand for stretch fabrics also inspired our development team to include biodegradable stretch in our collection for the conscious buyer who wants sustainable stretch options.

A R T I S T I C FA B R I C M I L L S .C O M

On staying in touch with clients: We have been fully accessible via digital platforms. Prior to the lockdown, we had invested in digitization, both to communicate with our buyers as well as showcase our collections virtually. —Liz Warren

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THISCOMPANY@THISCOMPANY.COM


CHINA On the F/W 21-22 season: We are focusing on our sustainable contributions with organic cotton, recycled cotton, renewable natural fibers like hemp, bamboo, copper and Tencel, and dyeing with pre-reduced liquid indigo. When introducing any new product, you want to be familiar with a control component, so we are introducing new fiber blends and new dye methods in our tried and true constructions. When we return to our new normality, consumers will especially want to go back to what is familiar and comfortable. On how the mill is responding to clients’ requests: Our clients have been asking a lot about recycled cotton, organic cotton and hemp products. On addressing consumer needs: The new generation of consumers are more sensitive to circular fashion, sustainability and innovation. We are listening to their needs and researching on how we, as experts, can make it a reality for them. Although we love cotton, we are looking towards other natural alternatives to cotton. We have collaborated deeply with Lenzing and other natural fiber companies to rethink our cotton dependency. We are excited with our findings with hemp, bamboo and copper. It has natural antibacterial benefits and is surprisingly very soft. On how the mill is addressing sustainability: We have a very special fabric that is sensitive to laser and ozone washes called Wizard. We use a special dye system with Smart Indigo (liquid indigo) to produce this. Wizard fabric is a strong innovation in sustainability because it reduces time and cost in dyeing and washing. Also, we are in the second season developing with a biodegradable polyester fiber. It degrades at a similar rate as cotton in an oxygen deprived environment.

However, as companies realize working from home is a new normality, the focus will be on comfort. We have been developing indigo knits for a long time with our line, In The Loop. This segment is now becoming very popular in loungewear. The consumer is more understanding of this segment of comfort and keeping loyal to indigo.

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BLUE DIAMOND

On the status of stretch denim: Our best-selling category is our comfort stretch articles. We are collaborating with The Lycra Company to use their new recycled line, Lycra EcoMade and T400. They have the same properties as regular Lycra and T400 but are made with 20 percent post-industrial waste. However, we see the trend in the market is about wider bodies and not only skinny jeans. This means the fabric does not have to be high stretch. It is more about comfort, good hand and durability. The hand feel will be very important, that is why we are focusing more on fibers like bamboo, Tencel and Refibra. On staying in touch with clients: Honestly this has been a challenge for us all. Our mills in China have been reopened since the end of March, but the rest of the world shut down. Even though our clients have been working from home, we had logistical challenges. The hardest and most personal has been seeing some of them being furloughed. The momentum of the development process has been the hardest. COVID-19 has been pushing us towards digital communication and business. We need a digital marketplace that can bridge the gap‌ Kingpins24 has shown us the beginning of this. We still have to come to a solution together to get the buyers to buy online as well. The biggest problem with digital is that we cannot touch, but we can still give complete technical information. They will just have to wait a few days to touch the fabric. —Angela Velasquez

HOUSEOFGOLD.LA

On fashion trends: We will not know the attitude of the consumers when we reopen. In our point of view, consumers will give more attention to quality and durability. As we give more attention to these traits, we feel the weight of the fabric will go up and vintage looks in comfort stretch will be the winners.

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CONE DENIM CHINA, MEXICO

On the F/W 21-22 season: We are mindful of the times and keeping very focused on our developments and what they would mean to our customers today. A few key highlights from our collection include our first denim hemp collection called Sweetleaf. Vintage Hold is another concept that is inspired by the iconic character of the best decades in denim. The fabric is designed with extra hold—like your favorite pair of vintage jeans—but engineered with modern performance for a more comfortable fit. And our Cone Community collection has become an anchor in how we design the collection: fabric that connects us with our community and the causes that we believe in and support. We feel this capsule is resonating more and more with our brands, especially now. On how the mill is responding to clients’ requests: We know that bringing the most sustainable ingredients to the table combined with eco-friendly manufacturing processes is the market direction, and we don’t see this direction changing. If anything, with this ‘pause’ we would anticipate that people will be even more focused on the fact we need to work together as a community on environmental issues to protect our planet for the future. We are letting our customers know that we are here to support them. We are offering the best that Cone Denim has to offer—heritage partnership, trust, reliability, and our continuing emphasis on forging ahead together in our sustainable efforts. We will move forward together with our customers to weather these very challenging business conditions. On how the mill is addressing sustainability: Cone has made investments and commitments in new sustainable technologies with the purchase of Jeanologia G2 equipment globally, as well as efforts in attaining the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals on a corporate level and looking at infrastructure and how best to reduce water consumption and recycle our internal waste. From a product side, this season you will find a number of fabrics that use pre- and post-consumer recycled cotton, shades that use less water and chemistry, as well as our release of hemp that requires no chemicals or pesticides to grow. It is truly an incredible fiber. The collection also includes recycled polyester used in our performance stretch fiber SGene, as well as Ciclo, a new polyester that degrades at similar rates to natural fibers.

On fashion trends: Our collection this season was designed to inspire and elicit emotion. Each fabric was created to influence a vision of a new silhouette or design concept. Some of the strongest concepts come from a connection to a raw material, inspiring designers to create something that connects with consumers and that [they] didn’t realize they needed until they experience it. On staying in touch with clients: During these extraordinary times, we have the opportunity to be more collaborative and creative with how we work. We are pushing ourselves to communicate our products and collections in new ways as clearly and creatively as possible. Through virtual presentations, we hope to give clarity, inspire for future designs, and most importantly, bring (and keep) our denim community closer together. —AV

CONEDENIM.COM

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ARTISTIC MILLINERS PA K I S TA N

On the F/W 21-22 season: For the new season, we’re adding new products under our Bio-vision and Circular Blue platforms, where our design focus is circularity. We are employing degradable and recycled fibers and water-saving dyeing and finishing techniques to develop fabrics that are compliant with Ellen McArthur’s Jeans Redesign guidelines and Cradle to Cradle certification. On how the mill is responding to clients’ requests: It is not a very easy time for brands to predict post-COVID-19 trends as there is no solid data to rely on. E-commerce is the only source for some. Therefore, they want to play safe, briefing dual-gender, normcore products—garments that are basics yet elevated with sustainable features—and offer versatile washes. On addressing consumer needs: We are seeing that there is a growing demand for properties that relate to durability, protection and hygiene by the denim consumer, for both adults and kids. Experiencing this new set of demands, we are curating a new bucket of multi-tasking performance fabrics that are not only functional but also super-sustainable. And the appeal for ultra-comfort has led us to consider softness as an inherent feature embedded in fabric design enriched with stronger and circular fibers. On how the mill is addressing sustainability: Apart from recycled (post-consumer waste, pre-consumer waste and industrial waste) and degradable fibers, this season we add hemp as a renewable and antimicrobial fiber to our fabric constructions. And laser-optimization has been the core design element for developing new shades. This caters to the need for versatility in washing, and for maintaining the authentic look of jeans in a sustainable way.

On fashion trends: Here, we think more on a macroscale since the meaning for ‘fashion trends’ translates to ‘survival trends’ with underlying economic, environmental and social concerns. The resilience to adopting new normal and offering flexibility is the holistic approach that we embrace. On the status of stretch denim: It is not going anywhere. Stretch is still here blended with recycled fibers and degradable alternatives, maintaining wear performance as the vital design parameter. Our ‘Alltogethernow’ range is our overarching theme for stretch denim that gathers all stretch technologies for producing mono- and bi-stretch


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qualities that [resonate with consumers’ changing perception of stretch]. Our ‘Shape But Not Size’ line celebrates all body types and offers solutions for certain needs, switching from compressive fits to easy-to-wear stretch options that offer extended comfort. On staying in touch with clients: We continue to do all of our meetings and presentations virtually.—AV

ARTISTICMILLINERS.COM

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BERTO I TA LY

On the F/W 21-22 season: Unfortunately, due to COVID-19, we are thinking of changing the collection. In general, we are proposing high quality materials mixes, sustainable fabrics and some new black-black developments. We aim to give clients fabrics with a tangible added value. On how the mill is responding to clients’ requests: We are receiving a lot of requests for sustainable fabrics, both rigid and stretch. We are in contact with different brands from different countries and of different ‘levels,’ and they are all asking for something different. We can say that, in general, requests for rigid denim are growing a little. On addressing consumer needs: We are addressing the need for comfort. We are proposing fabrics perfect for wide silhouettes but also fabrics with which you can make into a skinny fit. They will be really comfortable thanks to the fabric’s high performance—elasticity, recovery, growth, etc. On how the mill is addressing sustainability: We have considered sustainability since the beginning without compromises. We make our fabrics in Italy, not far from the Lagoon of Venice, which forces us to pay attention to the environment. This season, we are introducing new recycled fibers. Moreover, due to COVID-19, we are introducing a new fabric development with bacteria-free treatment made with ozone finishing. On performance fibers: We are introducing double twist yarn that mixes Tencel with DualFX, which gives a soft-touch fabric with high elasticity performance and recovery. We are also going to use some high-quality stretch cashmere for our premium denim line.

On fashion trends: We are trying to rethink classic casual elegance, mixing authentic denim (heavy, rigid fabrics) with elegant materials with intense saturated colors such as black-black. On the status of stretch denim: Stretch denim is always present in our collection. Clients are still asking for it, which is why we are introducing double twist yarn that mixes Tencel with DualFX. On staying in touch with clients: We are doing a lot of phone calls and video calls. Some clients are still asking for sample orders for the S/S 21 collections. Very few of them are asking for F/W 21-22, and we will show them the collection via video calls and a new online platform which we are currently working on. —LW

BERTO.IT


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GLOBAL DENIM MEXICO

On the F/W 21-22 season: The Global Denim team has developed a series of new fabrics with enhanced properties of stretch, performance and recovery, based on bestsellers and enhancing fabrics our customers already loved. Following the heritage trend, and going back to the old days of how denim looked, we are enhancing and adding new developments to our TruBlu category. The new fabrics give the customer the old look and feel they love but with added stretch for comfort, and we introduce Tencel into some of the constructions for a new level of softness. Our Powertek and Denimform categories are also expanded, bringing our customers in both the men’s and women’s markets new developments with great recovery and performance. The Lycra T400 yarn added to the Powertek group brings more durable stretch, recovery, a softer, smoother hand and the added benefit of good moisture management that provides a feel [that’s] cool and dry. On how the mill is responding to clients’ requests: Overall, the trend in requests that we see [is] going towards adding more stretch to fabrics, and making rigid fabrics comfort stretch. Stretch and recovery are becoming the most important things to address. Brands are looking towards 90 percent or higher recovery, and stretch from 4045 percent. In terms of color, pure indigos and black overdyed blacks are gaining a lot of momentum. Gray becomes relevant, but just for capsule collections or key pieces. Sustainability became the new normal, so requests for recycled and sustainable fibers and finding more sustainable and eco-friendly ways of doing business is essential. Every brand has different policies on how much sustainability they add to their collections, but everyone wants to contribute. Performance fibers such as Lycra T400 or similar alternatives are highly requested. And softness and brush qualities are popular among all customers. On addressing consumer needs: The modern consumer wants three things: to wear comfortable clothes (stretch and softness); for their clothes to have added value (performance fibers); and to contribute to a better world through responsible consuming (sustainability and circularity).

On how the mill is addressing sustainability: On the sustainability front we continue to operate with our Cleandigo and Ecolojean programs, bringing zero water discharge to the water treatment plant and using the cleanest indigo in the market that is also aniline-free. We continue to save water, energy and chemicals with these ongoing initiatives. [The initiative we’re most proud of] is our Ecoloop program that recycles pre-consumer denim, floor scraps and post-consumer denim into new cotton yarns to create new fabric. Our new 14,000-square-meter wing of the mill is designated just to this program. Through a lot of R&D we have managed to add recycled cotton yarn to all of our open-end constructions and we are working towards being able to provide our ring constructions the same treatment. We’re introducing 100 percent recycled cotton fabrics, too. Some are a beautiful natural blue-ish/gray yarn color, some dyed in indigo and others are overdyed. We also have some versions with stretch and Tencel for extra softness. On performance fibers: We are introducing this season more fabrics adding Lycra T400 for performance, and also creating constructions that allow us to have recoveries up to 90 percent or more. On fashion trends: Followed by [the] trends report we create internally every season and market research, we are adding different styles and fits to our collection as well as different washes. We are highlighting fabrics that can be applied to both men and women by showing fabrics used in jean styles for both markets. On the status of stretch denim: Stretch is climbing in importance. Rigid fabrics will always remain, but their counterpart—comfort stretch—is becoming more relevant. We are introducing more styles to our Superflex collection, bringing stretch up to 60 percent for mobility and flexibility. As stretch rises, so does recovery. We are also enhancing our Denimform collection of fabrics that provide perfect shaping of the body with stretch up to 40 percent.


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On staying in touch with clients: With today’s technology, we are managing to communicate with brands and customers through different mediums and provide them with our collection and sampling as usual so they can review it freely in their own time and workspace. Taking all the precautions and measures needed to ensure the safety of our clients and staff, we are committed to working and providing the best service possible during this time, and we are here to support each other. —AV

GLOBALDENIM.COM.MX

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FOISON TEXTILE CHINA

On the F/W 21-22 season: We focus on three main points for new developments: responsible, which means sustainable fibers, processes, water usage and power generation; innovative, as in new stretch levels, soft hand feels, new fashion, coatings, prints and antibacterial fibers and finishes; and accessible, which means more affordable collections to best support the re-growth of economies via cost-effective programs delivered to all countries after the pandemic. On how the mill is responding to clients’ requests: For our U.S. brands, we’re being asked for things like new color yarn dye shades, stretch with soft hand and rigid aesthetic, performance and antibacterial capabilities, responsible fibers and coated finishes. On addressing consumer needs: Consumers want fabric that’s responsible, innovative and accessible. Therefore, we’re providing sustainable fibers and manufacturing processes; innovations to [help] supply chains rebuild [their] orders [through] partnerships with key factories; and fiber and dye suppliers to improve speed and keep costs in line with brands’ expectations. Also, for the current environment we have developed a fiber-based antibacterial denim collection and are quickly preparing our own factory to produce certified face masks. On how the mill is addressing sustainability: We are already in full practice of sustainable and responsible production and processes with multiple certifications from ZDHC. We have also greatly increased our use of sustainable fibers such as Repreve, hemp, eco-cottons, recycled polyester, Tencel and viscose, as well as more efficient energy and water treatments. On performance fibers: We’re introducing antibacterial copper fiber, hemp, anti-transparent fiber and new fashion prints, finish techniques and combinations. On fashion trends: We’re investing a much larger portion of research into online, e-commerce resources and feedback from our key brand partners as to what is needed quickly in their e-commerce and traditional store channels.


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On the status of stretch denim: Stretch continues to be the largest portion of our collection by far. This season, we have some new stretch concepts that focus more on responsible and sustainable options for stretch. On staying in touch with clients: We’re working with brands in any mode possible as long as it’s compliant with our new normal of social distancing. Phone, social media, video chats and a great deal of DHL and FedEx are combined with quick response customer service and development teams in our head office to best deliver samples and concepts in a safe, fast and effective manner. Most importantly, our team is completing a new online product catalog and customer specific web portal to further ease development communications and view products collaboratively with each customer and brand directly. —LW

EN.GZFOISON.COM

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SOORTY PA K I S TA N On the F/W 21-22 season: Our message for the season will heavily consider the changes we as an industry are undergoing, while considering how we can provide a better future for generations to come. Being Pakistan’s largest vertically integrated denim manufacturer creates a strength, and at the same time, a responsibility. Our approach to denim manufacturing is a holistic one. We engineer products that look and feel fashionable while respecting our planet by using its resources smartly. Over the past years, we have invested in disruptive technologies and eco-efficient denim laundry systems that reduce the use of water, chemicals and energy, and ensure workers’ health and safety. We have consciously engineered fabrics that make use of regenerative fibers with constructions that will make life easier for the wearer by focusing on functionality and well-being. On how the mill is responding to clients’ requests: Our partners appreciate the co-working environment we are able to provide in our offices, production units, design studios and innovation labs. Being able to develop fully responsible collections with them on every stage of development, provides the ability to monitor, control and optimize all stages of their own collection development—from fabric selection to design, wash development and storytelling. This is the change-making culture. We need to realize how to use design as a tool to improve life. On addressing consumer needs: At Soorty, we engineer products that will serve needs. This comes in multiple forms, but some examples are super lightweight, non-wrinkle fabrics for travel enthusiasts, thermoregulation for the ever-changing climate, and super strong fabrics for outdoor lovers. We owe it to future generations to give them a better bright future. Using denim as a power of good, we utilize our force of being vertically integrated and design goods for purpose, apply processes which respect our planet, its resources and the people. On how the mill is addressing sustainability: Denim Kind, our new LEED-Platinum certified production facility that was designed to be future-proof. It is the most sustainable mass garment production facility in the world, where technology, aesthetics and ethics meet to design the future of fashion. Denim Kind reuses 85 percent of its water input, captures 95 percent of the sunlight for solar panels (which power the sewing floor), recycles 90 percent of the waste it

produces, collects rainwater, and uses the latest machinery in garment manufacturing that reduce consumption of natural resources. When brought together, all these steps save enough water to meet the daily needs of 15,000 people. On performance fibers: Responsible materials and conscious production are spread throughout our F/W 21-22 fabric collection. Collections include Lycra FreeFit technology to ensure easy stretch and shape retention, Lycra dualFX to provide good recovery in power stretches, Coolmax that adds moisture-wicking properties and improved breathability, and stretch and non-stretch articles with Dyneema for strength. Our Circularity range is the ultimate array of the most responsible manufacturing methods and raw materials. This includes a cotton-free family of fabrics constructed with different blends of Tencel Lyocell, Modal, EcoVero and Refibra; fabrics made with post-industrial and post-consumer waste; eco blends like hemp and linen; and Cradle to Cradle fabrics and garments. On fashion trends: Consumer behavior plays a huge role in how we define our concepts. The trends rising in each tribe—what they need, want or desire—defines what we design for them. In Everyday Essentials, we offer fabrics that are engineered to provide comfort next to your skin. Our Lifestyle family of fabrics brings traditional craft processes, responsible resourcing and digital technologies together for fabrics designed to be utilized in statement pieces. Our Nostalgia line is developed for true denim lovers and


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enthusiasts. With high quality content and innovative constructions, these fabrics are engineered to be future vintage. Worn In offers aged, raw denim. Here, technology has sped up the aging process and beauty of denim to offer consumers a heritage look. And our Circularity line is made to be future-proof for today’s conscious consumer who is needing less and caring more. Technology, digitalization and innovation are our biggest enablers, and material resourcing has a huge impact on both the footprint and the lifecycle of the end product designed. On the status of stretch denim: The pandemic has slowed our lifestyles, but it is valid to say that our fast-paced daily lives is here to stay and we will need fabrics that accompany us through this journey. Our Everyday Essentials group has the highest number of stretch fabrics with function and added value, including Hypersoft, a new construction using Lycra dualFX and dyed with smart liquid indigo produced internally. Kinetic Life Wear is our line of high stretch fabrics with thermoregulation and air and vapor permeability. Comfy is our super soft line that looks and feels like it was knitted. It’s cozy and ideal for loose fits, but has its own mechanic stretch capacity. And Shape-Up offers new fabric constructions with low shrinkage, good recovery and sculpting properties. On staying in touch with clients: The denim industry is a global community. We have built close and trustworthy relationships over the years that reach beyond office desks,

orders and payments transactions. We’re in this crisis all together and we have to acknowledge the importance of supporting one another along the value chain. We have a global team in place and we’re trying to utilize the digital technological tools to communicate both internally to keep the process moving, as well as the outside world. We’re putting together a digital platform to present our latest innovations and share where we have differentiated in our processes and products. —AV

S O O R T Y. C O M

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CANDIANI I TA LY On the F/W 21-22 season: We reworked all of our top fabrics, elevating aesthetics, content and performance to the highest standards of our sustainable innovation. For example, we took a classic Candiani fabric and created an updated version composed of 100 percent organic cotton that is traceable too, and dyed it with Kitotex technology. We also developed stretch versions of these classic fabrics using our new Resolve technology based on a custom development of Roica’s V550 degradable stretch yarn. We are looking at all the processes, technologies, and ingredients that can reduce the impact of our products to the minimum, if not, neutralize it completely. And we are now going for a whole new generation of denim products which aim for a positive impact on the environment at the end of their life cycle thanks to biodegradable and compostable properties. Of course, we also modified the characteristics of some of our older constructions since rustic and authentic denim is still quite popular.

On how the mill is responding to clients’ requests: Our brands want to know more about our sustainable technologies and many finally want to update their old fabrics. In terms of aesthetics, everyone is still into chunky denim with more character and more stretch—not like the past two years in which 100 percent cotton was desired. Black denim is still huge, and at Candiani we are pretty good at that. On addressing consumer needs: We are not addressing the consumer anymore, but the citizen. I’m always borrowing this concept from my friend Maurizio Donadi at Atelier & Repairs, because it’s totally true and we should look at citizens and the choices they make. On how the mill is addressing sustainability: Sustainability is the core of our innovation. In fact, we only talk about sustainable innovation nowadays. At Candiani there is no innovation without


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a sustainable purpose. Each new fabric has to be better than its previous generation, with lower impact, better aesthetics and performance, while keeping it competitive. That is the real challenge now that volumes are getting smaller and smaller and differentiation even wider. On performance fibers: We are amplifying the beneficial effects of our Kitotex patent, [which uses the polymer Chitosan to reduce the consumption of water, chemicals and energy in the fabric production process]. This is not necessarily a new construction, but a combination of dyeing and finishing applications. In fact, Chitosan is a truly unique ingredient, a bio-polymer with a strong bacteriostatic effect. On fashion trends: That is not our job really. I’d like designers to address it. Our wish is to inspire them and make beautiful, sustainable fabrics— that’s it. On the status of stretch denim: Stretch denim is definitely growing, in a wider range of elasticities, from comfort to super stretch. In addition to our Resolve fabric, we are bringing to market a revolutionary concept called Coreva, our patented biodegradable stretch technology made with natural rubber which is plant-based, biodegradable and performs incredibly.

On staying in touch with clients: Fortunately, our executive office, sales, and marketing teams were able to continue to work from home throughout the quarantine. We managed to prepare 80 percent of the new collection before the lockdown, and our marketing and sales forces put together informative technical materials, video presentations and educational sessions dedicated to our sustainable innovations and the collection.—AV

CANDIANIDENIM.IT

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CALIK TURKEY On the F/W 21-22 season: The most important aspect of the new collection is that we will be unfolding a completely new approach to sustainability by addressing the topic from a wider perspective, including at-home washing. Washing jeans consumes resources such as water, energy, chemicals and results in environmental pollution. Our new concept, Functionage, uses a technology named Washpro, which eliminates the need to wash jeans frequently. On how the mill is responding to clients’ requests: As trends in stretch for men, and rigid and super stretch for women continue, we generally receive these development demands from our brand partners and work on this. On how the mill is addressing sustainability: There are a lot of concrete ways in which we are working hard to contribute to sustainability—both within our company and in the wider industry—by creating processes that minimize the environmental impact of the supply chain. Within the past year, we have managed to incorporate several new technologies into our production facilities. Oxygene is a fabric concept developed with the next steps of the supply chain in mind. The technology used to make Oxygene allows garment makers to use less energy, water and fewer chemicals when they make jeans from this fabric. Using our Denethic technology, we are able to obtain heavy wash effects on denim garments with less water, less chemicals and less energy compared to the regular denim fabrics. D-Clear, on the other hand, makes it possible to use 40 percent less water during the initial indigo dyeing and 83 percent less water during the finishing of denim. This means a reduction of over 5 liters per meter of fabric produced. It also marks a decrease of 94 percent in chemical use. And our Transparency Monitoring System enables us to track the performance of the machinery at our mill and optimize resource consumption. By introducing these technical solutions to our sector, we aim to encourage more companies to improve their environmental performance through the missing piece that is innovation. We are restructuring our sustainability strategy to adapt our company to the latest sustainability trends and lead our industry to more integrated sustainable business models. Within this new strategy, our contribution to the UN’s Sustainable Development Goals (SDG) will be more significant.

On performance fibers: We always take our fabrics to the next level by using value-added fibers in the production. We also continue to use sustainable fibers like Tencel, modal and Refibra. We have developed new constructions that will better show the performance of the fibers. On fashion trends: The trends of the ’80s, ’90s and 2000s continue. Slub characters and open-end denim have an authentic look and are included in almost every concept in our collection. We offer all these in the new collection by combining today’s technology and end consumer expectations. On the status of stretch denim: Along with elevating our Selfsized and Fix-Fit concepts with unique constructions, we’re launching Skinlithe, a line that will break ground in the industry for its flexibility. Thanks to specially developed yarn, jeans made with the Skinlithe concept have an elasticity of 60-100 percent. The concept offers a soft-to-touch texture and ultra-comfort. Additionally, the fabric never puts pressure on the body while following the [movement of the] body, so it will be especially preferred by consumers who are addicted to sportswear for ease of movement. On staying in touch with clients: Although many brands have to stop their activities temporarily, we continue to communicate with our customers who try to carry out their activities, even from home. However, since consumer consumption has stopped, the brands have serious stock. For this reason, we predict that brands will focus on selling the existing stock rather than new collections in the coming period. —AV

CALIKDENIM.COM


IN SEASON: F/W 21-22

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ISKO TURKEY On the F/W 21-22 season: When developing our new F/W 21-22 collection, the main focus and inspiration has been our Responsible Innovation approach. Our main goal is a reduction in the use of natural raw materials as well as minimizing the impact of our products on the environment, without compromising the fashion features of our solutions. This can happen only with proper planning across the entire supply chain. At Isko we rely on our R-TWO program, which is now part of our entire denim offer. Using a mix of certified reused cotton and certified recycled polyester, the platform improves our sourcing efficiency throughout the entire fieldto-fabric production and allows us to effectively tackle over-sourcing and combat waste production. The platform served as our starting point for the development of lifestyle and fabric stories. Among these, Isko Vulcano stands out. This is a laser friendly finish that delivers natural 3D effects. From a sustainability standpoint, this process is both fast and energy efficient, which means that it goes easy on the environment whilst still providing denim with beautiful effects. On how the mill is responding to clients’ requests: We are happy to notice that sustainability is the main request we receive from our brand partners. This can take many forms, such as transparency on our supply chain partners, certified material usage and certified processes involving chemical management systems. Most of the development requests are about our R-TWO program. To this end, we adjust our fabrics according to specific needs and demands, providing customized, tailored solutions. On addressing consumer needs: Comfort, wellness and softness are among the most important concepts for consumers, but their demand for sustainable features keeps on growing. This is why we believe it is very important to inform them properly on our approach to the topic, as they need to understand that ‘sustainability’ is not just about looking and feeling sustainable, but it has to do with being and acting responsibly all the way.

Everything we do is inspired by a holistic vision based on the values of creativity, competence and citizenship. To grant as much transparency as possible, everything Isko does in terms of sustainability is verified and traced from field to fabric by a third party. To this end, Environmental Product Declarations (EPDs) reports represent an important tool, as they compare the actual impact when changes are made in terms fibers, chemicals and processes. We believe that it is essential for consumers to have a trusting relationship with their partners, based on transparent communication that relies on facts and numbers.


IN SEASON: F/W 21-22

On how the mill is addressing sustainability: Responsible Innovation is the driving vision inspiring everything we do, including this collection. For this season and the next to come, we aim at decreasing the use of natural resources, replacing them with reused and recycled materials without sacrificing all the features that our customers love. Every fabric we create is enhanced according to our Responsible Innovation approach, which includes the most up-to-date technological standards and processes to provide high-quality results without causing harm to the planet and its people.

On fashion trends: We noticed that there are not just one or two main trends for the season. Customers are now more open to exploring and playing with every type of color, weight, construction and silhouette. Brands develop their own trends, resulting in a huge variety of styles on the streets, and our collection can cater for all of them.

On performance fibers: Among the many fiber components and performance-enhancing constructions, certified reused cotton plays a big part in our new collection. We are also using the Isko Cosy construction as inspiration for the winter season. Made from fibers twice as fine as silk and three times finer than cashmere, Isko Cosy is a double-sided hybrid fabric with an authentic denim look on the outside and an incredibly warm and soft inside to protect from the wind and the cold. Our innovative Isko Mantra brings us into the realms of wellbeing. This textile concept is infused with microcapsules of aloe vera and body lotion, that have therapeutic effects on the skin, as they help to energize, moisturize, protect and rejuvenate the epidermis cells.

On staying in touch with clients: We are working very close with our customers, operating in the most flexible way with no impacts on our usual services and managing to reach them with our worldwide network of offices. Even though most of them are currently on hold, due to the international circumstance, we are working hard to be ready for them once the situation will be more stable. We are digitally connected and in constant communication to understand what their needs are and will be. To help this process, we are working on the development of a new digital platform to virtually launch and present customers our new denim collection. —AV

On the status of stretch denim: Stretch is the new basic. Our collections can include up to 100 percent stretch options, which are a perfect answer to a very simple and understandable consumers’ need: comfort. Of course, there are many aspects that change according to the usage elasticity levels, but it seems that people are really enjoying wearing comfortable, stretch garments.

ISKODENIM.COM

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NAVEENA DENIM MILLS PA K I S TA N

On the F/W 21-22 season: We have been mainly focusing on clever, wearable, sustainable and functional fabrics. We use different technologies and fibers, blending them to our already existing product lines, such as our smart stretch fabrics, or creating entirely new lines. We are also working on 100 percent biodegradable fabrics by replacing elastane with environment friendly fibers. Natural fibers such as hemp and bamboo are also a focus area where we work on. We will be introducing a Hemp Ecru line for the next season. We will also be adding new products to our super soft fabrics line, Fusion, and introduce new zero growth fabrics with maximum elasticity, superior look and a growth under 1 percent. Our Retrotech line will also expand with new authentic fabrics that combine a rigid-crack appearance with high stretch characteristics. On how the mill is responding to clients’ requests: Our brand partners are looking for developments in the same direction: authentic marble look stretch fabrics, hemp blended or zero cotton developments, sustainable products including fiber and dyeing. On addressing consumer needs: Consumers are shifting their focus from trend to function. Again, with COVID-19, and with the rise of athleisure and sportswear, this becomes even more relevant. Our new collection reflects fabrics that accompany the consumers every day, whatever the occasion is. On how the mill is addressing sustainability: At Naveena, we are constantly investing in new projects and machinery to continuously upgrade ourselves with the most efficient and environmentally friendly technologies. We have recent-


IN SEASON: F/W 21-22

ly launched a state of the art in-house innovation studio powered by Jeanologia 5.0 Smart Lab. The lab includes a laser machine, ozone and e-flow by Jeanologia. This facility allows us to make developments on our fabric with sustainable washes and provide the customers a full-package solution. We can also provide the EMI score for the garment using this technology. Post-consumer waste (PCW) is really an important area we invest in, too. PCW is one way that we can save cotton and recover all the wastages from the market. We have recently put in place a PCW recycling system that can process up to five tons of fabric per day, which can then be spun and woven back in with new cotton for completely new jeans. We have also invested in a new SCADA control system, allowing us to monitor how much steam, water and chemicals are being consumed in real time. Using this system, we have been able to reduce our water consumption and electricity consumption by 30 percent. Our entirely replaced weaving looms also brought our energy consumption down by 20 percent in comparison to air jet looms. On performance fibers: We are very focused on 100 percent biodegradable fabrics. By replacing elastane with environment friendly fibers, such as Bio-pro or Roica, we are able to realize what we call Holistic Denim. On the status of stretch denim: Stretch is a must-have this season; 98 percent of our collection is stretch. We have been blending new fibers into our existing product lines, including Wraptech. With this unique mix of fibers, we achieve multi-fiber properties of strength, elasticity and comfort, providing maximum shape retention, improved fabric growth, high recovery values without compromising comfort and flexibility. We also avoid elastane breakages after distortion and puckering issues on seam areas. On staying in touch with clients: We continue to be in touch with our clients on a daily basis. We use digital communication channels more. The fact that we have a global presence with offices worldwide is a great advantage. Having powerful offices in different time zones also enables us to keep track of latest developments, to keep communication strong and to provide the necessary support. —AV

N AV E E N A D E N I M M I L L S . C O M

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IN SEASON: F/W 21-22

PROSPERITY CHINA, VIETNAM On the F/W 21-22 season: For F/W 21-22, we have our Bio-Stretch collection which incorporates degradable plastic and stretch fiber as a performance component in the stretch lines with no trace left behind. And we have extended our no-aniline shade, Revelation Blue, to Revelation Black, an old-school black denim with a crisp white core that washes down to a beautiful blue-casted gray. The collection also includes more authentic shades developed for rigid and comfort stretch, and a few heavier weights mixed with Tencel for upgraded comfort. We really focus on addressing the needs of consumers, transparency, authentic looks and for sure, more comfort. On how the mill is responding to clients’ requests: Brands are looking for more built-in sustainability offerings, authentic construction and shades, and just a hint of stretch. On how the mill is addressing sustainability: Our sustainability approach is a 3-part deal, starting from recycled cotton to recycled indigo and bio-plastics, dyed with lower impact and reduced water consumption (up to 80 percent on certain shades), and finished with our signature AirClean denim finishing processes. We really loved the ideas of bio-plastics, which can be degradable synthetic fibers to replace the conventional or bi-component polyesters, and also boost the performance in terms of improved fabric recovery and lower growth. On the status of stretch denim: For stretch denim, in general, we believe the trend is kind of back to the lower stretch and rigid denim with more vintage looks. However, ultra-stretch is always there, and we can see there is also more demand for the super high stretch, like 70 percent and even over 100 percent. We have a nice full range of stretch fabrics, including some that we have developed containing no spandex at all to offer just a bit stretch with great touch and drape. On staying in touch with clients: Most brands and retailers have slowed down. In terms of orders, it kind of stopped, but the need for communication—be it calls, emails, video chats and online presentations—is greater. We do spend more time on taking photos of our new collections, preparing content on social media and presenting our fabrics through online tools to keep customers informed. —AV

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KALTEX MEXICO

On the F/W 21-22 season: We’re expanding our sustainable concepts, including Echo by Kaltex, a post-industrial waste-based products and ozone finished products. We are also introducing more functional and performance fabrics like Copptech, a new antimicrobrial product. On how the mill is responding to clients’ requests: We’re delivering by offering value orientated developments relative to marketing identities of specific brands. On addressing consumer needs: [They want sustainable products. Therefore, we’re implementing sustainability across our entire range of fabrics.] On how the mill is addressing sustainability: We’re reviewing new technologies relative to full circularity, from post- to pre-consumer orientation. On performance fibers: We’re introducing new embedded technologies in yarn form for specific performance attributes, including Copptech, a new antimicrobial-based product. On fashion trends: Sustainability is foremost in all that we do. However, there is a return to timeless and classic vintage basics like 100 percent cotton and functional 98 cotton and 2 percent comfort stretch as multi-fiber high stretch is no longer new but just an additional category to reflect on and support. On the status of stretch denim: From Lycra T400 technology, to J Fiber and beyond, we have seen such rapid expansion and many performance benchmarks that have redefined stretch. In a broader market sense, it feels as if we are coming back to the ground and to a 98/2 composition, but we will offer all the relevant categories and compositions in the full scope of stretch. [Stretch] is a very different conversation relative to each brands’ identity.

On staying in touch with clients: We have developed a video conferencing strategy with presentation decks for reviewing main concepts with our clients. We must become media companies that manage content and narrative accordingly as face to face meetings will be less available now and the near term. —AV

K A LT E X .C O M


IN SEASON: F/W 21-22

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On performance fibers: This season, we are introducing biodegradable polyester, which, like natural fibers, is 85 percent degradable. This means less waste in our landfills and hopefully less landfills altogether.

TWIN DRAGON C H I N A , M E X I C O, TA I WA N , V I E T N A M

On the F/W 21-22 season: Our ongoing focus in all of our developments is sustainability. In 2020, all of our denim plants in China, Vietnam, Taiwan and Mexico will use 100 percent liquid indigo from Dystar and liquid sulphur from Clariant. These are the eco-friendliest dyestuff in the denim industry. This year, all the polyester fiber we use will be either recycled or biodegradable. And we continue to use other sustainable fibers such as Tencel, modal, Gracell, hemp, linen and organic cotton. On how the mill is responding to clients’ requests: Our current brand partners’ requests include fabrics with stretch and non-stretch denim in various weights all inspired by the ’70s and ’80s eras. However, the biggest reason they have chosen to reach out to Twin Dragon, in particular, is that we also provide these fabrics with sustainability and new modern technology. On addressing consumer needs: At the moment, consumers are asking for versatile fabrics. We are getting more requests for slightly heavier fabrics with strong twill lines, and at the same time, there’s been an increase demand for stretch fabrics. Ultimately, the goal is to design fabrics that provide enough structure, comfort and versatility. To be frank, though, what consumers need at the moment are fabrics that help protect our environment. We are in uncertain times right now, but what is evident is that we all need to protect ourselves and by protecting our environment, we choose to protect ourselves. On how the mill is addressing sustainability: We have made huge strides in our sustainability efforts. Our biggest endeavor to this effort is our newest mill in Mexico which will be the most sustainable and eco-friendly mill in the world with state-of-the-art machinery powered by solar energy. It also uses recycled water and only liquid indigo to dye, completely eliminating the use of powder indigo.

On fashion trends: We expect a wide variety of fits happening in the future, which means that we need to be versatile and provide our customers with a wider selection of fabrics for designers to choose from. In the last year, we have also seen sustainability become a big trend, which is a very positive insight that it is now on the forefront of consumers’ buying decisions. On the status of stretch denim: We have made huge advancements in our stretch collection by providing a unique amount of high stretch with a high percentage of recovery. We’ve achieved this while providing spinning advances such as Siro spinning for an elevated hand feel, and technical advances in each fabric such as Lycra dualFX and D-tech stretch yarns for our higher stretch denim. These yarns eliminate or reduce spandex voids in the seam area brought on by aggressive wash processes. On staying in touch with clients: At the moment, with the shelter in place order, we are still connecting with our brands through the virtual technology that is available to us. We are safely working with our customers through virtual meetings and presentations as well as by phone and email, which we have always done in the past. We are actually connecting with our customers in more ways than ever before and becoming more creative on how to reach out to each other. Our customers know we are here to continue to serve their needs and collaborate in any way they need. —AV

TWINDRAGONMARKETING.COM


IN SEASON: F/W 21-22

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KIPAS TURKEY On the F/W 21-22 season: We pay attention to fiber selection, warp dyeing methods and finishing processes. More than 70 percent of our collection has different characters, while the remaining parts are different colors of these qualities. Our collection is based on combining our trend research, observations and sustainability. We always prefer sustainable fibers in our collections, and we increase the usage rate every season. On how the mill is responding to clients’ requests: While the demands of all countries and brands are different, they all demand sustainable products. They’re especially interested in recycled cotton fabrics that maintain an authentic denim look. On addressing consumer needs: In these times of rapid change, consumers tend to rethink their values on consumption, and they will look to businesses that make them feel secure in a meaningful way. Consumers will be addressing concerns around resources and transparency. Our priority is to provide maximum access to sustainable options. Additionally, [research before COVID-19 shows that] 56 percent of global companies encourage their employees to work from home, and 75 percent of Gen Y prefer to work remotely. Therefore, we launched our concept Twenty-Four as the ‘freelance’ denim. It’s about loungewear denim fabrics that are designed to redefine workwear and are developed for comfort-seeking consumers. On how the mill is addressing sustainability: As an industry, we are on the verge of discovering new futures that are shaped by our past and present. At Kipas, we believe that we’re in this together and we are building deeper bonds with nature by producing 60 percent of our production with sustainable resources. We recycle 100 percent of our waste during production. Through our use of Repreve recycled polyester by Unifi, we recycled 180 million plastic bottles. We are currently recycling 27 percent of water in our indigo department and our target is

to operate with 100 percent recycled water in our entire production by 2025. We are also climate positive as we consume 15 percent less energy per meter with Industry 4.0 investments. And since 2019, 100 percent of our energy comes from our own renewable resources, meaning our electricity-induced carbon footprint decreased by 97 percent. Our target is to become carbon neutral by 2025. And we are in collaboration with Ellen MacArthur Foundation’s Jeans Redesign. As Kipas, we are extremely proud to be a part of this project as it provides a draft set of guidelines that define a starting point for the industry to design and produce jeans following the principles of a circular economy at scale.


IN SEASON: F/W 21-22

On fashion trends: This season, our Twenty-Four concept will deliver a more youthful approach to all-day dressing. We aim to forge that emotional connection with consumers through comforting pieces with cocoon-like constructions. Wellness is bringing attention to softness and smart fabrics that provide moisture management. Our Dynamix fabrics are made with hybrid compositions that have the appearance of modern classics but with a soft touch. With our Heritage concept, we’ve developed constructions that have comforting textures and a time-worn look. These hero products are modern classics. Products that serve multiple purposes will be the new drivers of value and will add a sense of stability for brands. Our De-finite fabrics have almost-zero shrinkage and serve multiple purposes. They will help brands narrow down fabric choices and allow them to do more with less. On the status of stretch denim: Our Fit-ID technology prioritizes both style and comfort to empower the modern woman and offers sculptural forms. Surround is a concept that contains bi-stretch qualities where the elasticity of the warp and weft collaborate to create structured movement. The fabrics under this concept provide all-over coverage for maximum impact and performance. Surround pushes the boundaries of function and delivers curved forms that frame the body. On staying in touch with clients: Although face-to-face interviews are more energetic, this seems unlikely for now. However, our relations with our customers continue. We are planning to send samples from our new collection to our customers and share the information about the products via e-mail and through video presentations. After the health concerns disappear, we plan to complete the process by visiting again.—AV

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ADVANCE DENIM CHINA, VIETNAM On the F/W 21-22 season: We will be introducing a new shade from our innovative Big Box dyeing method, as well as a new line from our new manufacturing facility, Advance Sico, in Vietnam that use aniline-free indigo from Archroma. We will also be introducing a new line of knit denim and an innovation that we call Warp Loop, which is a denim with a cutting-edge, three-layer construction that’s breathable , lightweight and extremely comfortable. On how the mill is responding to clients’ requests: Over the past three months, there was a consistent request for sustainable denim. At the same time, many of our brand partners were trying to navigate the many different meanings of sustainable denim and what would be meaningful to their customers: organic, BCI, E3, recycled cotton, etc. Each customer has a different opinion and different requests. Advance Denim has worked tirelessly to address the many sustainable needs of our customers in a transparent and responsible manner. We have developed a platform of sustainable fabrics that are not only responsible, but have beautiful vintage character as well. There have also been requests for more functional denim. Customers are looking for fabrics that are not only sustainable, but have dual properties that create a new wearing experience. These functional denims look like true vintage ring spun styles, but are also cooling, antimicrobial and protect the wearer from UV rays. As you can imagine during our current crisis, protection is on the forefront of everyone’s mind. On how the mill is addressing sustainability: Advance Denim has set up a platform of denim styles that cater to our customers’ sustainable goals, but we have also been looking at our manufacturing process for the past three years and setting ambitious internal sustainability goals. We have looked at every process in our mill and invested in new production methods that will maxi-

mize sustainability. We reengineered our finishing range so that we recycle 100 percent of the water needed for finishing our products. The most exciting investment in sustainability is our introduction of Big Box dyeing. Traditional indigo dyeing uses 8-13 separate dye baths that consume an incredible amount of water. Big Box uses one big box to complete the dye process. This revolutionary dye process uses the same liquid indigo that creates the vintage washes that everyone loves. Big Box does this with no added water in the dye process and produces no waste water emissions. It also consumes 65 percent fewer chemicals than traditional dyeing. We feel that Big Box dyeing is the future of true sustainable indigo dyeing. On performance fibers: Advance Denim has strong relationships with its fiber and chemical suppliers. We have made the aggressive goal of using 90 percent green fibers in all of our production by 2023. We also were the first denim mill in China to adopt aniline-free liquid indigo and exclusively use aniline-free indigo in our Vietnam mill. We are also introducing several new functional denims that take advantage of cutting-edge fibers. Advance has partnered with Kyorene to introduce Kyorene single layer graphene denim. Graphene is one of the most exciting discoveries of the last 20 years, and the physicists that discovered it won the Nobel prize in 2010. Graphene is a sin-


IN SEASON: F/W 21-22 gle layer of carbon atoms that are formed in a honeycomb pattern that creates the lightest, thinnest, strongest materials in the known universe. Graphene is also an exceptional conductor of heat and electricity. If that were not enough, Graphene is an anti-UV that will keep you cool in the heat of summer and is an antibacterial that destroys bacterias’ cell membrane. It also reflects the infrared heat that leaves your body and returns it back as energy that helps promote circulation. Graphene is a “super material” that has the potential to alter the future. Advance is also introducing Wafer 365 denim. Wafer is an exclusive wicking fiber that creates a denim that is light, comfortable, cool and dry. Wafer 365 combines wicking technologies and a super soft touch. Wafer 365 is your go-to jean on a hot and humid summer day. On fashion trends: Given the global health crisis, the trends are shifting for F/W 21-22. It is hard to judge by what is trending in retail because there really is no retail currently. We are seeing shifts in needs for the season and we are reacting to those shifts for our customers. On the status of stretch denim: Advance Denim is committed to offering the most complete line of stretch denim it the market. Our newest offering is 100 Percent Fit, which uses a patented technology to create a denim with 100 percent elasticity that comfortably hugs your every curve. It also has exceptional recovery so it keeps its clean shape all day. It’s the perfect stretch denim for today’s active lifestyle. On staying in touch with clients: Right away, we realized that it would be a challenge to visit customers in this environment, so we set up a live stream event to show our customers our new developments. This event was successful and was very well-attended. We will for sure be building on this success. We are also presenting our fabrics via Zoom meetings since we cannot attend the traditional mill weeks. It is important that we make these meetings impactful, so we have developed videos to supplement these meetings. It will take some time to get used to the new normal, but we are committed to finding the right medium to show our innovations. —LW

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ORTA TURKEY

On the F/W 21-22 season: Resilience is the underlying theme in our HERE4GOOD collection. It speaks to the human spirit and our collective desire to care more for each other and the planet. The collection includes new fabric innovations that are less stress on the farming and cultivating of natural fibers like cotton, and more eco-engineered and climate friendly fabrics that deliver amazing comfort, softness and performance. HERE4GOOD strengthens our mission to use less to create more value, performance and more abundance of goodness. On how the mill is responding to clients’ requests: We are working on a wide range of developments in cooperation with our brand partners. They mainly request fabrics with durable water and oil repellency for raw usage and better wearing performance. While they want antibacterial protection, they are seeking protection and comfort at the same time. Smart design with sustainable materials is always key for our brand partners. They value transparent production backed up with all of the data and process details. On addressing consumer needs: The best innovation is both technical and emotional, and Orta delivers both in every denim fabric. We aim to be part of the solution in fashion without waste, because a great pair of jeans is an emotional badge—a reminder of good times. Our new Golden Ratio is perfectly blended for strength, durability and longevity. The fabric is made with 30 percent recycled cotton, blended with Tencel for softness. Our Hydrotech+ collection masters the art of water repellency. Treated with our iconic Trutech+ technology, it maintains optimum elasticity while lowering the shrinkage, and allows for a prolonged wearing experience. The result is a collection of wearable fabrics made with different weights and stretch levels and silhouettes. Hemp is one of the most important natural resources for the eco-modern generation. Our Gen H denim collection is the result of our latest technologies coupled with the oldest fiber used by mankind, and thanks to our iconic Alchemy finish, we’ve managed to create hemp fabrics that are super soft and gentle. And with Warmcure, we create jeans that feel like your favorite cashmere sweater. It is finely brushed on the inside and blended with Tencel for a plush cocoon of luxury.

On how the mill is addressing sustainability: We are building resilient thinking into our Orta Blu sustainability platform. Resilient thinking means re-assessing every practice and process we have in place to ensure that we are proactive more than ever. Our OrtaBlu app is a great example [of being] proactive. By sharing with brands and consumers the environmental impacts of all our fabrics on the app, [we] are enabling design for sustainability and strengthening our commitment to transparency and traceability. Our eco-innovation using hemp, reclaimed cotton waste, recycled denim and earth-derived coatings are just one part of our continuing effort to develop more eco-conscious materials. Orta is committed to exploring the latest disruptive research and biomaterials that will shape denim for the future—from coloring our wardrobes with biology, to visualizing what carbon negative construction looks like. Our Naked collection represents undyed, unprocessed fabrics that are as close as you can get to natural. And Biowake is our next evolution in biodesign. In cooperation with Archroma, we have created an EarthColors family of fully traceable biosynthetic dyes derived from natural waste products of the agriculture and herbal industries On performance fibers: Freecycle is eco-goodness all in the fabric mix. The fabrics are made of cotton, recycled cotton and Lycra T400—nothing else—and provide 25 percent more tearing strength values compared to virgin cotton, and 10 percent better shrinkage versus core-spun versions. Freecycle is holistically-crafted to ensure maximum softness with a social-environmental touch. Wool Wish is our innovative wool denim fabric that replicates the style of traditional denim, but with breathable, thermo-regulating warmth. The blend of wool, recycled polyester and cotton results in comforting softness. On fashion trends: At Orta, we believe that the world is our neighbor and the planet is our mother. And at some point, the health and safety of every individual is our responsibility. It took a pandemic to remind us that we are all connected, and that our health and happiness is dependent on that of others.


IN SEASON: F/W 21-22

The HERE4GOOD collection embraces the eco-modern technologies Orta has been implementing to continually improve our sustainability practices and to ensure denim’s future. HERE4GOOD is a huge wake up call for throwaway fashion…things we love should last and memories are not meant for the landfill. On the status of stretch denim: Our Stretch Spectrum concept is sculpting perfection…it is Orta’s approach to re-engineering comfort and speaks to a culture that desires sustainable, ethical, intelligent and healing softwear. The concept delivers extreme performance with triple core yarn that provides flawless shaping, a clearer conscience with recycled cotton warp and it breaks the rules with 80 percent elasticity. Tencel and our Alchemy finish creates a lofty hand with a clean, luxurious fit and feel. On staying in touch with clients: Since the first day, we have taken all the necessary precautions possible to protect our employees, their families and all our business partners who all of them considered as our most valuable assets. We are working more than ever as the solution partner to our brands and business partners. Our sales team is accessible, as always, to keep our dialogues and we have a swift relationship with every market. —AV

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US DENIM PA K I S TA N On the F/W 21-22 season: One of the most exciting developments of the season is Reborn, a 100 percent recycled denim fabric. Every ingredient of this fabric is sustainable and has stretch. It’s made with recycled cotton from post-consumer waste and post-industrial waste, recycled polyester and recycled elastane, and it is dyed with aniline-free dyes from Archroma and shades are laser friendly as well. Our 100 percent Ciclo Terylene Clean Fiber, a biodegradable polyester, is another exciting development. This fiber is made in recycled polyester and it is 70 percent more biodegradable than untreated, regular polyester. In fact, textiles embedded with this fiber become a valuable source of soil-matter and bio-gas. On addressing consumer needs: Medical textiles are becoming more important in the market and we have developed antimicrobial denim, which is also anti-odor. On how the mill is responding to clients’ requests: We continue to see interest in authentic and sustainable products. With Raw Hue, we have a new range of fabrics in rich indigo and sulfur shades with authentic denim character. Garments made in the fabrics can be raw or rinse washed because the fabrics have soft handle. There’s no need for heavy laundries, meaning they are sustainable as well. In Authentic Soft Denim, we have incorporated regenerated plant-based fibers with some special weaves and fabric finishing treatments to give that extra softness without losing the authentic denim character and fabric strength. On how the mill is addressing sustainability: We are adding Repreve Our Ocean, a new recycled fiber developed by Unifi that uses plastic waste collected from coastlines to recycle it into polyester fiber. We are also using WaterSave Dyeing, a technique developed in-house, that allows us to save up to 50 percent of water in the dyeing stage

compared to normal dyeing techniques. On a corporate level, we’re working on several sustainability projects, including the installation of a 4 MW solar power plant. And our facilities are getting a technology upgrade with more laser machines and a new, more water and energy efficient UP Laundry system by Tonello to ensure significant resource savings in laundries. On performance fibers: [One of the more notable fibers in the line] is hemp, which is sustainable, antimicrobial, anti-odor, thermal insulation and UV resistant. Our SmartSpun denim is made from cottonized hemp fiber, which is gaining popularity as a soft, comfortable, natural alternative fiber to cotton. It is a highly sustainable fiber as it uses 86 percent less water than cotton during its growth and its yield is also 200 percent more per acre as compared to regular cotton. On fashion trends: We serve the fashion market with [several trends], but if you talk about one clear focus of our product development process then that would be to increase sustainable fabric options for our customers without losing the authentic character of denim.


2I N0 2S 0E ARSI OV NE T: F D/ WE N 2I M1 - 2L 2O O K B O O K

On the status of stretch denim: Stretch denim has very significant importance in the denim market and we have a diversified product range in both authentic stretch and modern stretch. Currently, skinny authentic jeans with more than 40 percent stretch is gaining in the market and we have developed many different products for this direction. —AV

USDENIMMILLS.COM

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IN SEASON: F/W 21-22

FRESH START E N V I R O N M E N TA L LY- F R I E N D LY M AT E R I A L S I N T R O D U C E A N E W L E V E L O F C O N S C I O U S C R E A T I V I T Y T O T H E T R I M S C A T E G O R Y. BY ANGELA VELASQU EZ

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hereas a new season is typically a time for trim manufacturers to introduce novelties that spark ideas and creativity, trim makers expect to see a greater demand for timeless and sustainable designs—qualities that will resonate with the post-pandemic consumer. Companies, however, have been preparing for this new eco-mindset as denim brands increasingly seek components that will round-out their sustainable product lines. The F/W 21-22 season, according to Gloria Crivellaro, Ribbontex export sales manager, will be an opportunity for companies to bring a “breath of freshness and new stimuli” to a market that has been severely compromised by the sudden and unexpected pause in business brought on by the coronavirus. “Our industry, in general, is likely to be changed by the impact of this very difficult time, but we must continue to focus on what has always distinguished us,” she said. To do that, Ribbontex will embrace quality, new ideas and sustainable concepts that build on the company’s commitments to use 100 percent renewable energy by the end of 2020. “We constantly work on the evolution of production processes to make them more sustainable by using raw materials with less environmental impact, by banning solvent inks from prints and replacing them with water-based inks,” Crivellaro said. “Ribbontex has always had an eye on ethical and sustainability aspects.” As some markets begin to restart, trim suppliers have received requests for new developments from customers, primarily for sustainable products. “Given our current crisis, it is obvious that sustainability is not just an option—it is a duty,” said Dorlet president Thibault Greuzat.

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This season, Dorlet is doubling down on its efforts to green the trims supply chain by offering more sustainable solutions and making it a mission to convince clients to choose environmentally friendly alternatives for their hardware. The German company is nurturing this eco-mindset with a four-prong strategy that includes a coloring process that reduces water, electricity and chemical consumption, and a line of raw material trims, which relies on an accelerated oxidation process to achieve desired colors. Dorlet is also finding new circular opportunities such as introducing buttons made from recycled plastic bottles and fishing wire. Along with developing the Diabolo, a 100 percent reusable, removable and recyclable jean button with no chemicals, Dorlet’s Wild Journey collection features

items made with more than 25 percent post-consumer waste collected close to its factory. And following one client’s challenge to create a 100 percent biodegradable button, Greuzat said Dorlet will roll out a new version this season made of 100 percent wood sourced from the forest in the Jura Mountains. The new “Made in France” button gives an authentic and natural look to the jeans, he added. Over the past five years, sustainability has become a larger part of Cadica’s collections, said company sales and marketing executive Serena Cavallerini. The Italian company’s Ethical Choice collection is based on materials that are no-waste, recycled, recyclable, biodegradable and organic. These design innovations, or “modern solutions” as


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IN SEASON: F/W 21-22

Cavallerini described, resonate with Cadica’s clients across the board. “Cadica works with different target customers and the development requests are always so various in terms of materials, creativity and research, but we highlight the strong demand of sustainable projects from our market,” she said. Sustainability will be one of the keywords Ribbontex’s collection, Crivellaro said. The Italian company places a spotlight this season on recyclable products, 100 percent recycled tapes and chains and products that re-use parts such as polyester tapes. Continuous R&D investment, she added, allows the company to experiment with new solutions materials like a new tape made of eco-friendly cotton. Turteks Etiket A.S. has built sustainable items into its seasonal collections over the last four years. Its sustainable line provides customers with upwards of 40 sustainable material options for labeling—from water-based heat transfers to recycled materials. For F/W 21-22, highlights include: corn-based leather, hemp, recycled rubber from car tires, recycled polyester felts, organically-dyed soft Tyvex and labels produced from leftover leather. Though every brand has its own story to tell, and its own budget to work with, Liana Çiprut, Turteks Etiket managing partner, said the most preferred material continues to be leather, which the company offers chrome-free and organic. “We don’t use water in our washings anymore,” Çiprut said, noting that Turteks generally produces clean labels or only uses dry-out effects to give more worn visuals. “We like to show real leathers in a raw format without the dyes—it’s a more organic and original way. For Avery Dennison, client requests skew sustainable with companies requesting plastic-free packaging solutions, recycled yarn labels and recycled papers. This year, Avery Dennison distilled its 2025 sustainability goals into three main objectives: to advance the circular economy, reduce environmental impact, and be a force for good. “Our approach to these goals is embedded in the business, so can be seen in many ways, from innovating with our customers to how we manage our supply chain to giving back to communities,” said Amy Lee, Avery Dennison senior manager of global trends and insight for apparel. The company is also seeing an increasing demand for certifications and lifecycle analysis of products that can subsequently be communicated to the consumer. “This is perhaps in response to industry-wide greenwashing, and consumers are holding brands accountable for the claims that they make,” Lee said.

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New opportunities

In a sea of blue, jeans brands rely on trims to help visually express their creative vision for the season. The ’70s is a starting point for Cadica’s vintage-inspired trims, which Cavallerini said will open the category up to a new soulful and creative spirit. The company also anticipates seeing another side of streetwear with technical trims and color blocked designs that add modernity to the category. Black, white, coral and blue will dominate. Pulling inspiration from athleisure, Riri Group’s new items are painted bright red and light blue. Trims are intended to be seen, while contrasting materials and finishes are used throughout to add dimension, said Nantas Montonati, the company’s group sales and marketing director. Avery Dennison is swayed by sport too, but not the traditional kind. “In light of global communities being forced into isolation, digital will continue to be a prevailing theme for some time, and we expect that virtual-only fashion, e-sports and interactive experiences such as augmented reality will move into the mainstream,” Lee said. Therefore, expect to see colors and patterns that look vibrant on screen to become increasingly important for branding and e-commerce. In terms of surface effects, she said a focus on safety may bring reflective and functional properties into the spotlight, while tactile embellishments such as chenille, jacron and undyed, recycled materials will add a human element and satisfy the touch crisis that months of social distancing is creating. Eco-friendly finishes are definitely one of the most sought after themes now and in future trends, said Terri Limbach, Scovill Fasteners marketing and communications manager. “We also have seen customer designs moving towards a more traditional and classic look,” she said. As consumers seek high-quality, timeless garments, Dorlet anticipates brands will revisit tried-and-true hardware. “For this season, an authentic silver made on stainless steel base and raw copper will be our top finishing,” Greuzat said. Hand-finished labels—be it waxed, sanded or painted—complement the growing buzz around craft and upcycled denim. Rather than leave materials in their original state, Turtek’s Çiprut said the trend calls for design details that manipulate and change the structure of materials. The company dyes Tyvek, jacron and leathers with organic dyes. It also uses customers’ leftover denim fabrics to make new labels. “When it is handmade, it is more unique and precious,” she said.

Looking outside of men’s and women’s categories, Scovill is introducing Plasma Plastic Snaps, a range of closures ideal for children’s wear and other sensitive applications that require a plastic snap. “There are no metal components which won’t set off a needle detection alert during production as well as preventing any metal allergy issues,” said Limbach. The snap has two snap actions, providing customers with the perfect grip, she added. As the outdoor sector becomes more and more strategic for Riri Group, the company has started strengthening its position by presenting products mainly characterized by performance, resistance and durability. “This comes along with a progressive positioning within the technical field,” Montonati added. Riri’s flagship product for this category is the Storm Evo, a zip characterized by high waterproofing and airtightness performance levels, that also offers brands the opportunity to customize the tape and chain. It’s a product that “successfully combines aesthetics and functionality,” Montonati said. “This collection is mainly [designed to meet those re-

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Style points


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quests from our clients asking for performance-driven] yet stylish products,” he continued. “We’ve noticed a high and rising demand of smart and refined zippers and buttons able to greatly survive extreme conditions. Our intention is to create more technical products that do not give up on beauty and aesthetic.” Technology and sustainability are also merging to create new opportunities in the trims category. Avery Dennison’s partnership with Hong Kong-based upcycling brand The R Collective is one example of how the company plans to emphasize circularity and technology this season. In May, The R Collective introduced a line of upcycled Levi’s jeans with labels by Avery Dennison featuring QR codes that connect the consumer to information about conscious wash care. Items in the collection also showcased trim materials such as dissolvable paper, vegan leather alternatives like jacron and recycled yarns for woven labels and printed fabric labels, Lee said. Digital transformation is also a huge driver, she added, especially now with the pandemic impacting how the company engages with brands and businesses. “We believe that this shift will come into play even faster,” Lee said. “RFID, transparency, brand protection and content engagement are some of the key ways in which digital triggers can minimize waste and drive positive change in the supply chain.”

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DENIM F20/S21 Sustainability, innovation, serenity and nostalgia play into denim themes for Fall 2020 through Spring 2021 collections. Brand trust and image influence consumers’ sustainable clothing choices. A Cotton Council International and Cotton Incorporated 2017 Global Environment Survey reported 66 percent of consumers say they blame manufacturers, brands or stores when clothing is not sustainably produced. Today, brands and retailers see the value and look to ways to meet shoppers’ environmental expectations. They do this through innovative finishing effects and incorporating extra fabric cuttings or returns to minimize waste and make the most of existing material for new looks. As consumers settle into the ‘new normal’ they will favor styles that are familiar and comforting. We’ll see nostalgic styles ranging from tie-dyes, retro cuts and ’90s grunge. Here are the street looks and fabric innovations for trend inspiration. Images: Courtesy of Cotton Incorporated


IN SEASON: F/W 21-22

VIBES Consumers find comfort in the familiar often updated with an innovative twist. We see workwear as streetwear as consumers look for durability as a reflection of sustainability. As nostalgia is always trending, the ’90s grunge and ’70s psychedelic styles make a comeback.

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COLOR & EFFECTS Color continues to make an impact with nuanced iterations through applications including printing and wash techniques. Pastels transition to more vibrant palettes while a spectrum of blues evoke trust, calm and comfort. The focus on sustainability from manufacturers, brands, retailers and consumers is reflected with minimally processed plant and vegetable natural dyes, as well as laser and ozone finishes.


IN SEASON: F/W 21-22

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ACCENTS


IN SEASON: F/W 21-22

Accents Another nod to sustainability is the trend of creatively incorporating deadstock material (overruns, remnants or returns) into new designs. We see handcrafted effects interpreted through details such as appliquĂŠs, beading, embroidery and print techniques, including Shibori and Batik patterns.

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DENIM’S DURABILITY & ENDURING CONSUMER APPEAL The extent and duration of denim supply chain disruptions from the global COVID-19 pandemic remains to be seen. But two consumer surveys conducted by Cotton Incorporated provide insights into how the pandemic affected consumer behavior and what that may portend for denim demand moving forward. As consumers began adhering to stay-athome orders, many sought comfort amid the uncomfortable situation. According to the Cotton Incorporated report, “Things to Know About COVID-19 & Consumer Concerns in the U.S.” (conducted in March of 2020), more than half of respondents claimed to be cooking more (54 percent) and eating more comfort food and snacks (52 percent) than they did prior to stay-at-home orders. Consumers also sought comfort from their apparel; nearly 63 percent of respondents said they were wearing comfortable clothes more often than they did before the pandemic.

Data from the ongoing Lifestyle Monitor™ survey, also conducted in March 2020, reveals 70 percent of consumers identified cotton as the most comfortable denim fiber to wear. Spandex and polyester met with less favor at 27 percent and 26 percent, respectively, and 16 percent of respondents deemed rayon the most comfortable. This is encouraging for the denim market because denim is, by definition, cotton. The appeal of natural fibers, like cotton, during the month of March is further demonstrated by the relationship between online browsing and online purchases. The special COVID-19 survey revealed that nearly 48 percent of consumers browsed online for textiles made from natural fibers, and that 37 percent made a natural fiber textile purchase. While a comparable number of respondents claimed to have searched for synthetic apparel (45 percent), fewer (25 percent) said that they purchased a synthetic textile. Responses to the March Lifestyle Monitor™ survey revealed that 70 percent of consumers identify cotton as the most comfortable denim fiber to wear. Given the typical high-cotton content for denim, it is perhaps unsurprising that 71 percent of consumers surveyed cited denim jeans as their first pick for casual wear. Denim purchasing intentions remained flat from the same time last year, with 84 percent of consumers saying they plan to purchase the same (69 percent) or more (15 percent) denim jeans over the course of 2020.


IN SEASON: F/W 21-22

N AT U R A L & S Y N T H E T I C F I B E R B R O W S I N G -T O - P U R C H A S E C O M PA R I S O N

48 % Browsed Natural Fiber Textiles

37 % Purchased Natural Fiber Textiles

45 % Browsed Synthetic Textiles

25 % Purchased Synthetic Textiles

While interest in denim jeans remained steady, survey results showed some erosion to denim brand loyalty. Sixty-eight percent of consumers surveyed claimed that they tend to buy the same brand or brands when purchasing denim jeans. However, 42 percent of respondents claimed to be less denim brand loyal than they had been in years past, creating a potential opportunity for newer denim brands. Denim brands old and new should take note of fiber content preferences and pricing sweet spots that resonate with these consumers. For example, about three in four consumers said they prefer their denim jeans be made from 100 percent cotton or cotton with stretch. When asked to rank fiber preferences for denim, more than four in five consumers said cotton-rich jeans are the most comfortable (89 percent), authentic (89 percent), sustainable (87 percent), trustworthy (87 percent), high quality (87 per-

cent), soft (87 percent), breathable (86 percent), versatile (82 percent), long lasting (80 percent), and fashionable (80 percent), compared to manmade fiber blended jeans. The Lifestyle Monitor™ survey sought to better understand what elevated cotton in the minds of denim consumers. Denim blended with manmade fibers were the itchiest among 57 percent of those surveyed; and 43 percent complained of odor issues with these garments, as compared to cotton-rich denim. More than one-third of consumers said they did not have a very positive feeling about having polyester (38 percent) or rayon (34 percent) in their denim. The same survey indicates that the average consumer typically paid $42 for a pair of denim jeans, a 14 percent increase over the average price paid in 2019. Most responding consumers said they typically purchased their denim at mass merchants (43 percent) and chain stores (35 percent); while 21 percent said they purchased denim from department stores. Overall, consumers surveyed during the early weeks of stay-at-home orders indicated an interest in comfort, and identified cotton as the most comfortable fiber to wear. This is good news for denim brands taking a more authentic, cotton-rich approach to their offerings; especially with consumers’ less enthusiastic views of manmade and synthetic fibers in denim.

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COTTON

DEFINING DENIM FOR 400 YEARS

KEEPIN’ IT REAL WITH COTTON

Discover how cotton can benefit your denim business. Visit www.cottoninc.com, or contact your Cotton Incorporated Account Executive. AMERICA’S COTTON PRODUCERS AND IMPORTERS. Service marks/trademarks of Cotton Incorporated. ©2020 Cotton Incorporated.


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