Toronto Guide - Consumer by Spafax

INSIDE : V I B R A N T N E I G H B O U R H O O D S | S H O P P I N G C H I C | C E L E B R I T Y S TA R T R E K S | S P O R TS S M A C K D O W N

2012 | Creative in the City

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INK R D & FOOD TION

RT AV O U

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SEC

SIMPLY THE BEST:

TORONTO SHINES from beach to bistro, film to fashion

MORE TO EXPLORE: BRAMPTON, NIAGARA , MISSISSAUGA

Table of Contents

Toronto Magazine, Volume 5, Issue 1 Getting high on thrills at the CN Tower with EdgeWalk, the world’s highest full-circle hands-free walk.

Food & Drink Special: Savour the City 34 · Hot Stuff

Four celebrated chefs dish on the local food scene. By James Chatto

38 · Shake It Up

Top mixologists share their secrets on the city’s sizzling cocktails. By Margaret Swaine

40 · Vine Lines

Raise a glass to Ontario, home to an array of wonderful wines. By Natalie MacLean

42 · Brew Review

Pint-size breweries make a major impact on the growing beer landscape. By Stephen Beaumont

Features 46 · Star Treks

Found here: the hottest tickets and best venues and artists in entertainment. By Stephen Knight

50 · Only in Toronto

25 reasons why this city is like no other. By Michele Sponagle

54 · ’Tis the Season

Toronto’s unbeatable holiday spirit spreads magic and warmth. By Michele Sponagle

58 · Objects of Desire

Blockbuster treasures from four beloved cultural attractions. By Carol Perehudoff

63 · Green Scene

Brampton comes alive with festivals, relaxing spaces and new attractions. By Bill Brioux

66 · Celebrate Mississauga

Meet a festival city at its cultural peak. By Jennifer Lee

Photos: CN Tower (EdgeWalk); Kevin Gonsalves (restaurant)

69 · The Wonder of Niagara

Up close and personal with the legends of the Falls. By Anita Draycott

72 · Eau, What a Feeling

From lakes to rivers, action-packed pursuits make a splash. By Kate Pocock

76 · Discovery Walks

Hit the pavement to explore five unique urban themes.

TORONTO 2012 | 3

Table of Contents In Brief 22 · Sporting Life

An athletic primer—by the numbers. By Stephen Knight

24 · Fashion Forward

Inside Toronto’s thriving style and design scene. By Laura deCarufel

28 · Side Trips

Go ahead and use Toronto as a convenient hub from which to explore the best of Ontario. By Aliyah Shamser

30 · Village People

Two insiders, two neighbourhoods. Your ultimate guide to the LGBT community, from prime breakfast spots to browsing and bar hopping. By Michele Sponagle

Snapshots 18 · Second Sight

Iconic landmarks as you’ve never seen them before.

44 · The Luxe Life

Departments 6 · Contributors 8 · Welcome 10 · Cityscapes

Your black book: hot shops, cool restos, unique sleeps and more.

82 · Neighbourhoods of Greater Toronto 90 · Visitor Resources 92 · 2012 Event Calendar 94 · Parting Shot

Meet Mr. Geography, taxi driver extraordinaire, and take the most memorable ride of your life.

On the Cover From hot dog carts to renowned museums (like the ROM, shown here), Toronto offers an abundance of unforgettable experiences. Photo by Geneviève Caron

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Photos: Getty Images (Bautista); Arthur Mendonça (model); Geneviève Caron (Yonge-Dundas Square); Tourism Toronto (festival)

A stylish look at urban glamour and glitz. Photography by Geneviève Caron

CHINESE GALLERIES Matthews Family Court of Chinese Sculpture

EXPERIENCE THE DINOSAURS

James and Louise Temerty Galleries of the Age of Dinosaurs

WORLD AT THE

ROM

ANCIENT EGYPT

Galleries of Africa: Egypt

BIODIVERSITY & ANIMALS Life in Crisis: Schad Gallery of Biodiversity And so much more!

Featured Exhibitions MAYA Secrets of their Ancient World Until April 9, 2012

DINOSAURS ADRIFT Giants from the Southern Hemisphere June 23, 2012 to January 6, 2013

100 Queen’s Park l Toronto, Canada l Museum or St. George subway stop l www.rom.on.ca Maya was co-produced by the Royal Ontario Museum (ROM) and the Canadian Museum of Civilization (CMC), in collaboration with the National Institute of Anthropology and History (CONACULTA-INAH). Images © ROM. Dinosaur: dattuphoto – 1328020 Ontario Inc. Schad Gallery: Paul Orenstein. The ROM is an agency of the Government of Ontario.

Contributors

STEPHEN BEAUMONT Stephen Beaumont has been documenting the world of beer, spirits and cocktails for over two decades, along the way authoring or contributing to a dozen books, including the forthcoming World Atlas of Beer, co-written with Tim Webb and scheduled for publication in the spring of 2012. When not drinking or writing about flavourful beverages, he can often be found talking about them. JAMES CHATTO James Chatto is the author of six books and is one of Canada’s best-known food writers. He is the editor of harry Magazine, senior editor of Food & Drink magazine, food and culture columnist for ROM Magazine and restaurant critic for Zoomer magazine. As National Culinary Advisor to Gold Medal Plates, the Olympic athlete fundraiser, he gets to eat his way across Canada every fall. KEVIN GONSALVES A born-and-bred Torontonian, Kevin Gonsalves is a commercial photographer who works and lives in the St. Lawrence Market neighbourhood. His images have frequently appeared in magazines such as Homemakers, Canadian Family, FASHION Magazine, The Fourth Period, Toronto Life, Wedding Bells and Where Essential. Kevin is a graduate of Toronto’s Ryerson University.

NATALIE MACLEAN Natalie MacLean, author of the bestseller Red, White and Drunk All Over, has just published her second wine book, Unquenchable: A Tipsy Quest for the World’s Best Bargain Wines, which is packed with character sketches of hilarious, obsessive winemakers, notes on travels to gorgeous vineyards, mouth-watering descriptions of food and wine, insider wine tips and neurotic humour.

Tourism Toronto Chair of the Board David Ogilvie President & CEO David Whitaker Senior Vice-President & Chief Marketing Officer Joel Peters Editor-in-Chief Vice-President, Communications Andrew Weir Director, Creative Services Bridget LeGrow Director, Industry Relations Pamela Laite Director, Member Care Denise Belgrove Managing Editor Michele Sponagle Senior Editor Laura deCarufel Design Spafax Canada Membership enquiries: 416-203-3820 Ad sales (Spafax Canada): 416-350-2425 Circulation: 340,000 Published by Tourism Toronto Queen’s Quay Terminal Box 126, 207 Queen’s Quay West Toronto, ON Canada M5J 1A7 Tel: 416-203-2600 Fax: 416-203-6753 Printed in Canada Toronto Magazine © 2012. Produced in cooperation with the Ontario Ministry of Tourism, Culture and Sport. All rights reserved. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. All information is current as of press time. The publisher cannot and does not guarantee the accuracy of all information and will not be responsible for errors, changes or omissions.

CAROL PEREHUDOFF Based in Toronto, Carol Perehudoff is an awardwinning freelance writer with a passion for art, spas and travel. Her articles have appeared in a number of publications, including enRoute Magazine, the Chicago Tribune and Endless Vacations, and she writes a travel column for the Toronto Star. She blogs at www.wanderingcarol.com, has recently launched into making travel videos and is currently working on a memoir. CHRIS YOUNG Chris Young lives and works in Toronto, shooting everything from celebrity portraits to major sporting events for a wide variety of editorial and commercial clients both in Canada and the United States. Chris was born in England and worked in London for magazines, wire agencies, newspapers, NGOs and government bodies. He was twice commissioned by the Queen to take her family portraits.

www.SeeTorontoNow.com

This publication is printed on stock FSC certified and is 100% recyclable.

VisitToronto

We were here first, so naturally we picked the best location.

TORONTOâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S DOWNTOWN LANDMARK HOTEL SINCE 1929 Located in the heart of downtown Toronto, The Fairmont Royal York is within walking distance to the business and theatre districts and the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best shopping and dining.

For reservations or information visit www.fairmont.com/royalyork or call 1 800 441 1414.

Minister’s Message

President and CEO’s Message

Welcome to the Hello and welcome. Greater Toronto Area, a truly diverse and dynamic destination that has something to offer everyone as a multicultural and cosmopolitan capital. With a proud population of people from over 200 countries, speaking more than 130 languages, Toronto offers a unique opportunity to discover cultures from every corner of the world. Toronto showcases a vibrant variety of sights and sounds, from our inspired cultural scene, innovative festivals and world-class sporting events to our enticing international cuisine, premier shopping and renowned hotels. Throughout the seasons, our streets are alive with entertainment and excitement! Home to acclaimed attractions like the Art Gallery of Ontario, the Royal Ontario Museum and the iconic CN Tower, some of the world’s greatest treasures can be found just steps away. Beyond the downtown core, endless opportunities await you in Brampton, Mississauga and York Region! These centres boast some of the best golf courses, parks, trails, racetracks and shopping centres for you to explore. Whether you travel across the Greater Toronto Area, venture north to see the breathtaking wilderness of Ontario’s famed cottage country or head south to some of the world’s finest wineries, you’ll quickly discover why Ontario is not just a place to explore— but a place to experience!

We’re proud to present Toronto Magazine for 2012, featuring inspiration from across our great region and all the practical information you’ll need to craft your own adventure. You’ll find a cosmopolitan city with a style that is authentically Toronto and uniquely Canadian. Walk the streets by day and by night. Savour the sights, sounds and exhilarating tastes of every café, restaurant, market and festival. A vibrant, yet intimate downtown core is also the gateway to singular neighbourhood experiences found in every corner of the Greater Toronto Area, from Mississauga and our airport area to Brampton and beyond. Visiting our city is a choice you’ll be glad you made. More than 224,000 dedicated individuals are working in tourism and hospitality across Greater Toronto. We’re all here to welcome you and make your visit one you’ll remember for a long time. Visit our website to get up-to-the-minute event listings (SeeTorontoNow.com) and download the free See Toronto mobile app. While here, be sure to pick up your copy of the 2012 Toronto Visitor Guide. In it, you’ll find all the information you’ll need to explore one of the most exciting and unique cities you’ve ever visited. On behalf of all of us, welcome to Toronto! We’ve been expecting you.

David Whitaker President and CEO, Tourism Toronto

Michael Chan Ontario Minister of Tourism, Culture and Sport

Download Tourism Toronto’s new app here... get the inside scoop on Toronto events, restaurants, attractions and more! The See Toronto app is available in the app store.

8 | www.SeeTorontoNow.com

Free download! Get the Android version of the Tourism Toronto app now.

360 Restaurant is one of Torontoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s finest dining destinations, located atop Torontoâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most famous landmark, the CN Tower. Offering a spectacular 360-degree view of the city, an inventive, locally sourced, seasonal menu and an award-winning wine cellar, 360 Restaurant is an inspiring gastronomic experience in an unsurpassed setting. To book the ultimate dining experience, call 416-362-5411 or visit cntower.ca Complimentary elevation with the purchase of a main course.

Toronto is an eclectic city. It changes almost

daily, morphs, evolves and grows in new and exciting directions. Whether you’re a first-time visitor, repeat guest or even a local, it’s a destination that continues to surprise and delight the more you explore it. From topnotch regional ethnic cuisine to fashion finds and off-the-beaten-path attractions, there is always something amazing to see, do or taste.

Cityscapes Local Hero Call it a local food network. The Metro Toronto Convention Centre (MTCC) is taking its locally sourced menu one step further with a new program that allows meeting planners to give their delegates a real taste of Ontario. It’s farm to fork at its very best. The program prioritizes Ontario producers, making them the MTCC’s main suppliers with a partnership that includes the Ontario Culinary Tourism Alliance (OCTA) and Food Network celebrity chef Brad Long, a long-time advocate of the “eat local” movement. mtccc.com —Aliyah Shamsher

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The Metro Toronto Convention Centre puts local fare front and centre on its menus.

Cityscapes AROUND TOWN

A sleepover at the Ontario Science Centre

Unique Sleeps In Toronto, accommodations come in myriad forms. With the ROMkids Sleepovers, youngsters can spend a night at the Royal Ontario Museum, learning about its popular dinosaur skeletons. For budding adventurers, the Ontario Science Centre’s Destination Discovery! package is a sleepover experience complete with storytelling around an indoor virtual campfire, snacks and handson activities. If you prefer something more traditional, but still unique, head to the Park Hyatt Toronto. Interior designer Sarah Richardson’s foray into hotel design began with the Hyatt’s The Pink Suite. The newest addition to the mix? The Blue Suite, which Richardson has transformed using a cool palette and crisp chrome accents. History buffs can rewind back to 1964 when The Beatles stayed in the Royal Suite at Le Méridien King Edward Hotel. Their presence inspired more than 3,000 fans to flood the lobby. Five years later, John

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Lennon returned with Yoko Ono and stayed in the same suite the day before they began their bed-in-forpeace campaign. Art lovers can soak up the cultural vibe at The Drake Hotel. The Salon Rooms are filled with artwork from the hotel’s permanent collection (think pieces by Ken Lum and Elaine Stocki). The nearby Gladstone Hotel features 37 artistdesigned rooms, including the Tower Suite, created by mother-and-daughter team Jane and Christina Zeidler. At the Rogers Centre (home of the Toronto Blue Jays), sports fans can spend the night at the Renaissance Toronto Downtown Hotel. It offers the best seats in the house with field-view rooms overlooking the stadium. —A.S.

Creature comforts for ROMkids Sleepovers

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TORONTO 2012 | 11

Cityscapes around town Interactive exhibits and a host of memorabilia make the Hockey Hall of Fame a favourite.

Canadian Horse Racing Hall of Fame at Woodbine Racetrack

Actor and inductee Mike Myers adds glamour to Canada’s Walk of Fame.

Fame Game

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On the Run Couldn’t pack your personal trainer? With bike routes, hiking trails and easily accessible running groups to join, continue your weekly workouts while exploring Toronto’s diverse neighbourhoods and scenic waterways. Cruise control: Take to the streets with BIXI (toronto.bixi.com), Toronto’s public bike-sharing system, which has 80 stations in the downtown core, all accessible 24/7. Want to go mobile? Map your route at Ridethecity.com/Toronto. Trailblazers: Meander between nature and urban reality with a Toronto hike along the Humber River Trail, the Don River Trail or the Rouge River Trail. Up for an adventure? The 800-km Bruce Trail begins near Niagara Falls and ends in the picturesque town of Tobermory. Waterways: Run, bike or stroll along the Martin Goodman Trail, which threads its way through Toronto’s waterfront, linking the Eastern Beaches and the Western Beaches. The newest addition to the trail—from Marilyn Bell Park to Coronation Park—offers uninterrupted views of Lake Ontario and beyond. Drop in: Retreat from the city with a class at The Yoga Sanctuary (theyogasanctuary.net), which has two locations in downtown Toronto. Mississauga’s Second Wind Pilates Plus (secondwind.net) offers a holistic approach to fitness and approximately 30 classes per week. If running is more your speed, the Toronto Running Club (torontorunningclub.com) features free runs every Wednesday evening. —A.S.

Photos: Doug Brown/Tourism Toronto (jockey); Hockey Hall of Fame; iStockphoto (Canada’s Walk of Fame)

Toronto has several landmarks that honour the achievements of Canada’s brightest stars. From hockey greats to world-renowned musicians, actors and directors, the country’s notables are commemorated throughout the city. Perhaps the best-known shrine is the Hockey Hall of Fame (HHOF), housed in a beautifully restored 1880s bank building. Filled with a myriad of artifacts and memorabilia, the HHOF embodies Canada’s love of the game through an interactive hockey zone, the international hall, which has hockey paraphernalia from around the world, and the MCI Great Hall, housing the Stanley Cup and other trophies as well as portraits and biographical sketches of all inductees. You can also choose your own adventure with the Canadian Horse Racing Hall of Fame at Woodbine Racetrack, the Canadian Golf Hall of Fame at Glen Abbey Golf Club, and not far away, the Canadian Baseball Hall of Fame & Museum in St. Marys, Ontario, and the Canadian Football Hall of Fame in Hamilton. Spanning several blocks on King Street, between Roy Thomson Hall, the Royal Alexandra Theatre and the Princess of Wales Theatre, Canada’s Walk of Fame features plaques celebrating such A-listers as Mike Myers, Christopher Plummer and Michael J. Fox. —A.S.

Cityscapes around town

Indian Rice Factory serves up flame-roasted lentil chips and fresh mint and coriander chutneys.

Flavours to Savour There’s more to love with Toronto’s diverse ethnic cuisine.

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Download this A one-stop spot for everything great in Toronto? With details on dining, attractions, shopping and events? Yes, there is an app for that. A terrific one that’s available free. See Toronto is the essential app for navigating the abundance of cool things to see and do in the city. It has nifty features like searchable restaurant listings to point the way to nearby eateries, maps, contacts, promotions and handy info on Brampton and Mississauga, too. —Michele Sponagle

Photo: iStockPhoto (iPhone)

As one of the most multicultural cities in the world, Toronto is home to virtually every flavour found in international fare. But what really makes it stand out is its rarefied array of regional cuisine. Pick virtually any kind of ethnic cuisine and you can go on a culinary journey through its country of origin with fork in hand, whether Italy, Korea, China, Japan or France. Take Indian food, for example. The Punjabi, Gujarati, Marathi and Tamil cultures are all reflected in different eateries around the city. At Jaipur Grille in midtown, chef Pawan Mahendro—who was born in Amritsar, Punjab, in northern India—uses special menus to highlight specific regions in India. Maroli on Bloor Street West specializes in dishes from the state of Kerala, a land of waving palms and pristine beaches on the southwestern coast of India. Kerala is a melting pot of cultures (Indian, Dutch, British, Arab, Chinese and Portuguese), all of which influence its cuisine. The result is food that is spicy and flavourful but never overpowering. Dosa Darbar on Albion Road specializes in southern Indian dishes, including an impressive variety of dosas (rice pancakes). North of Bombay, located on Dundas West, serves classic north Indian cuisine such as bhindi masala and chicken tikka masala. With four locations scattered across the city, Bombay Bhel is known for dishes baked in its charcoal-fired tandoor oven, including tandoori chicken, which is first marinated in yogurt and a special blend of spices. Biryani House at Yonge and Wellesley has revived dum pukht (slow oven) cuisine, using traditional Awadhi-style preparation. Food is cooked in its own juices in a sealed pot over a very low flame, creating subtle blended flavours. Then there are 309 Dhaba Indian Excellence, The Host Fine Indian Cuisine, Amaya and the Indian Rice Factory. All offer sophisticated menus featuring cuisine from a host of regions. With so much choice, it’s just a matter of taste where you choose to go. —Margaret Swaine

Cityscapes around town

Love the Design offers a fun and funky shopping experience.

Retro in Metro If it’s quirky and cool, you can find it at Cat’s Meow.

Vintage hunters, take note: We’ve rounded up five spots where you can score the city’s coolest loot, whether you’re uptown, downtown, east or west. Avenue Road: Talk about a smash hit. The window displays at Cat’s Meow have been known to stop traffic, as frocks by boldfaced names like Dior and Balenciaga distract drivers (and would-be shoppers). Inside, the selection is a similarly stylish mix of YSL scarves and baubles by Chanel. Condition? Mint. Queen West: Hipsters flock to 69 Vintage, curated by owner and acknowledged Toronto vintage queen Kealan Sullivan. With its indie vibe and friendly staff, it’s the ideal spot to score a perfectly worn-in denim jacket, cool cowboy boots or a sweet 1960s shift dress. The Junction: Part gallery, part store, Smash is all about creative expression, from the custom furniture and glassware on offer to curios like moose antlers, Depressionera mug shots and an impressive collection of colourful Swizzle sticks. Leslieville: Love the Design inspires retail crushes. The airy, light-filled space is home to everything from “industrial chic” furniture to sepia-tinted Toronto maps to vintage seltzer bottles. Bonus: the shop’s couture stationery. Little Italy: The Arthur maximizes every inch of its 350square-foot space, offering kitschy items that would be at home in a circa-1970s cottage: fondue sets, picnic baskets and forest-green typewriters. Shag carpeting not included. —Laura deCarufel

Kitsch from the 1970s lives on at The Arthur.

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For more about hot Toronto shops, go to:

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TORONTO 2012 | 15

Cityscapes around town

What’s in a Name? Stories behind the city’s beloved landmarks. Honest Ed’s In 1948, businessman Ed Mirvish opened a bargain basement store, Honest Ed’s. It became a local favourite for its low prices, no-frills aesthetic and creative publicity stunts, like an annual turkey giveaway at Christmas. Later, as a theatre impressario, Mirvish produced over 300 shows, and his Mirvish Productions remains the lead player in the city’s theatre scene.

Celebrating the glory of Canadian football. The Grey Cup is more than just a championship football game. It’s an end-of-the-year tradition with grand celebrations and parties leading up to see who is the best team in the Canadian Football League. This year a 10-day city-wide festival unites the country, climaxing with the 100th Grey Cup game being played at the Rogers Centre in Toronto on November 25. It promises to be a historymaking event. The city is no rookie when it comes to hosting. It has already welcomed the Grey Cup—one of Canada’s largest and longest-running sporting events—on 46 prior occasions, including the first-ever game, held in 1909. In 1948, fans of the Calgary Stampeders infused the city with a carnivallike atmosphere—according to a famous tale, a football fan rode a horse through the lobby of the Fairmont Royal York Hotel. 100thgreycupfestival.ca Some other notable moments from history: • The first Grey Cup game to go into overtime was in 1961, with the Winnipeg Blue Bombers and the Hamilton Tiger Cats battling it out at Toronto’s CNE Stadium. It is still considered one of the best Grey Cup games ever. • In 2006, the Toronto Argonauts requested that the names of co-owners John Candy and Wayne Gretzky be added to the trophy they won in 1991. It was unusual to make the request so many years after the win, but the CFL said yes. • To date, the Toronto Argonauts have been the most frequent winners, with a total of 15 Grey Cup wins, most recently in 2004. • After the 100th Grey Cup game in 2012, the cup will no longer have room left for new plates that list the winners. 16 | www.SeeTorontoNow.com

Nathan Phillips Square In power from 1955 to 1962, Nathan Phillips was Toronto’s first Jewish mayor, earning the moniker “mayor of all the people”—fitting for an increasingly multicultural city. He spurred the creation of the new City Hall, an architectural modernist marvel that opened in 1965.

Toronto Pearson International Airport Originally opened in 1939, the Mississauga airport went through several name changes before settling on its current name in 1984. Its namesake is Lester B. Pearson, the beloved 14th prime minister of Canada. The man friends and family called “Mike” won the Nobel Peace Prize for his efforts to stem the Suez Canal crisis.

Eaton Centre Timothy Eaton was an Irish immigrant who started Eaton’s department stores, once the country’s most important retailer with a catalogue selling everything from hats to canoes. The Eaton Centre opened in 1977. For good luck, the legend goes, head to the Royal Ontario Museum and rub the toe of the bronze statue of Timothy.

Roy Thomson Hall The man who gave his name to this entertainment venue was a modest guy, despite his status as a media mogul who owned an empire with more than 200 newspapers and was made a baron. While living in London, he rode the subway to his office. The Thomson family donated $5.4 million for the construction of the hall, which opened in 1982.

Photos: CFL (Grey Cup); Tourism Toronto (Honest Ed’s)

The Big Kickoff

Cityscapes AROUND TOWN

History Class

Photos: Francisco Pardo (360); Fort York National Historic Site (soldiers); Allison Woo (Canoe and Luma)

360 at the CN Tower elevates fine dining to new heights.

On a clear day, the views of the lake from Canoe are unbeatable.

King West hot spot Luma offers prime people-watching.

Meals with a View Sit window-side at these unique eateries to watch the city shimmer and shine, day or night. Crystal clear: At the c5 Restaurant Lounge, located in the pinnacle of the Royal Ontario Museum’s Michael Lee-Chin Crystal, visitors dine under a soaring, peaked aluminumand-glass structure that offers stunning vistas of Toronto’s skyline. Daytime dwellings: The Roof Lounge at the Park Hyatt Toronto is the site of many a celeb-fuelled party (especially during the Toronto International Film Festival). Not to be outdone, the TIFF Bell Lightbox recently partnered with powerhouse resto brand Oliver & Bonacini to create Luma, which overlooks Toronto’s west-end theatre district. High-in-the-sky: Located on the 54th floor of the TD Bank Tower, Canoe (Oliver & Bonacini) is a favourite dining spot for local and visiting members of the elite. At 351 metres, 360 The Restaurant at the CN Tower is in the Guinness World Records for having the world’s highest wine cellar. Home to two of Canada’s highest patios, 180 Panorama is set atop the 51st floor of the downtown Manulife Centre. Day at the races: With its three restaurants, Woodbine Racetrack offers exciting ways to dine, cheer and view, either near the finish line at Champions Bar and Patio or overlooking the track at the Woodbine Club or Favourites Dining Room. —A.S. VisitToronto

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Fort York marks the 200th anniversary of the War of 1812. Toronto is known as a modern city, but the roots of the past run deep. Nestled downtown is Fort York, an historic gem that boasts the largest collection of War of 1812 buildings in Canada. With 2012 commemorating the bicentennial of that war, Fort York serves as a hub for events and activities, like re-enactments of military traditions from that time. Its role in Canadian history was pivotal. In April of 1813, the fort was engulfed in flames as U.S. forces attacked and occupied it. Later that year, it was rebuilt and successfully defended York (later called Toronto) from attack, securing its role as the capital of Upper Canada and ensuring that it stayed part of the British Empire. —M.S.

Tech City Toronto looks to the future with the 2012 Microsoft Worldwide Partner Conference. The city’s mission? To create the most inspired and technologically advanced conference in Microsoft history. Scheduled to run from July 9–13 at the Metro Toronto Convention Centre and the Air Canada Centre, the event celebrates the best and brightest of the international Microsoft family. But for many die-hard tech fans, it’s all about the numbers: 640,000 (Microsoft’s global technology partners), 15,000 (people expected to attend the conference), 130 (countries represented) and 500 (events that will be taking place throughout the city). —A.S. TORONTO 2012 | 17

second sight The devil, as they say, is in the details, but the same could be said of design. And it’s often in the details that a city reveals its soul. In Toronto, replete with iconic sights, soul is everywhere— if you know where to look. So let’s play a game. Study these detail shots and guess which Toronto landmarks they represent. Then go find them. Consider it a day of soul-searching. By Laura deCarufel

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f TORONTO 2012 | 19

Find them here Mississauga

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Downtown Toronto Yonge St.

Queen St.

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Gardiner Expy.

a) Located in the city’s Financial District (near Bay Street and Wellington Street West), the Allen Lambert Galleria in Brookfield Place is one of Toronto’s most stunning public spaces. Designed by Spanish architect

North America, and an array of artwork, including The Audience by Michael Snow, which is located at the northeast and northwest entrances. d) A bronze sculpture of legendary Toronto-born pianist Glenn Gould greets

Santiago Calatrava, the soaring six-storey ceiling of the pedestrian

passersby in front of the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation at Front

thoroughfare is meant to evoke a canopy of trees. It’s also a popular spot

Street and John Street. Created by sculptor Ruth Abernathy, the artwork

for art exhibitions, particularly during the annual Scotiabank CONTACT

is reportedly based on a famous photo of Gould sitting on a park bench

Photography Festival (May) and Luminato Festival (June). b) Artist Stephen Cruise’s ode to Toronto’s fashion industry—a nine-foothigh stack of brightly coloured buttons topped by a thimble—is situated on the busy corner of Richmond Street and Spadina Avenue. c) Every year, more than 3.5 million people visit the Rogers Centre (Front

near Lake Simcoe. 2012 marks the 80th anniversary of Gould’s birth. e) Opened to the public in 1899, Old City Hall is an impressive example of Romanesque Revival architecture, complete with cast bronze grotesques that overlook bustling Queen Street and Bay Street. f) Designed by celebrated Chinese architect Yansong Ma, these undulating

Street and Blue Jays Way), home to the Toronto Blue Jays Baseball Club and

condo towers grace central Mississauga near Square One Shopping Centre,

the Toronto Argonauts Football Team, as well as other top-tier sporting

one of the largest shopping malls in Canada. Inspired by the building’s curves,

events and concerts. It features the first fully retractable stadium roof in

residents dubbed the first tower “Marilyn” in honour of Marilyn Monroe.

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Photos: Doug Brown/Tourism Toronto (Brookfield Place, Old City Hall); City of Toronto (thimble); Nik Wheeler/Corbis (Rogers Centre); Brendan Adam Zwelling (Glenn Gould statue; on previous page, Glenn Gould Foundation); Mississauga Tourism (towers)

Dundas St.

01 Sporting Life

In the long history of Toronto sports, there are jersey numbers intimately connected to the athletes who wore them. We can’t do them all justice, but here’s a primer to impress your friends. By Stephen Knight

LUKE SCHENN The Maple Leafs are rebuilding and the stay-athome defenceman is part of the foundation. Although just 22, he’s already in his fourth NHL season.

DION PHANEUF The tough-as-nails defenceman and current captain of the Maple Leafs has had the playoff hopes of the city on his shoulders since arriving from Calgary in early 2010.

PAUL TRACY In 2003, the Thrill from West Hill was the toast of the race-car world with an amazing three wins to start the CART season. The Metallica-loving speed demon eventually won seven of 18 races to take the overall driver’s championship.

CHRIS BOSH Drafted in the first round with high expectations, CB4 was the go-to guy for the Raptors for seven seasons and is the franchise’s all-time leading scorer.

BILL BARILKO The former Maple Leafs defenceman is immortalized in The Tragically Hip’s haunting “Fifty Mission Cap.” The Timmins native died at just age 24.

ANGELA JAMES She grew up playing ball hockey in Toronto’s Flemingdon Park area back when girls weren’t welcome. She went on to win four gold medals at the Women’s World Hockey Championships. In 2010, James was inducted into the Hockey Hall of Fame.

ROBERTO ALOMAR Who can forget Alomar’s dramatic home run against Dennis Eckersley in the 1992 American League Championship Series? It was the psychological turning point, sparking the Blue Jays to back-to-back World Series titles.

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DANNY DICHIO The take-noprisoners style of this English footy player had already endeared him to Toronto FC fans, but he was immortalized when he bagged the franchise’s firstever goal in a 3–1 home win over the Chicago Fire on May 12, 2007.

MATS SUNDIN The classy, understated Swede remains the Maple Leafs’ all-time leading scorer (987 points). He was sublimely talented, and he twice led the team to the Eastern Conference finals.

WENDEL CLARK The first overall pick at the 1985 NHL draft, Wendel Clark personified grit and possessed a laser-like wrist shot. Clark enjoyed three tours of duty as a Maple Leaf.

JOSE BAUTISTA The soft-spoken right fielder belted a major league-leading 54 home runs for the Blue Jays in 2010, then whacked another 43 dingers for the Jays in 2011.

Photos: Getty Images (Tracy, James, Dichio, Sundin, Bautista); NBA (Stoudamire); Toronto Argonauts (Clemons); Toronto Blue Jays (Alomar, Halladay and Stieb); Toronto Maple Leafs (Gilmour)

JOE CARTER In 1993, Joe Carter belted a Mitch Williams fastball over Rogers Centre’s left-field seats for a walk-off home run over the Philadelphia Phillies and back-to-back championships.

20 MIKE “PINBALL” CLEMONS Though he stands just 5' 6", the Toronto Argonauts running back won three Grey Cups as a player (1991, ’96 and ’97) and then won another, in 2004, as the team’s coach. He is one of only four Argos to have his number retired.

DAVE STIEB The ace of the Blue Jays pitching rotation throughout the 1980s, Stieb also owns the only no-hitter in franchise history, beating the Cleveland Indians 3–0 on the road on Sept. 2, 1990.

DAMON STOUDAMIRE Fans initially booed when then Raptors GM Isiah Thomas drafted the Arizona point guard. The boos turned to cheers when the undersized ball of energy was named NBA Rookie of the Year for 1995–96, the Raps’ inaugural season.

ROY HALLADAY The classy righthander was the Blue Jays’ star pitcher for most of the 2000s. In 2003, “Doc” posted a sparkling 22–7 won-lost record to win the American League Cy Young Award as best pitcher.

DOUG GILMOUR The tenacious centre’s crafty playmaking propelled Toronto to within one win of the Stanley Cup finals in 1993, and then he took the team to the conference finals again in ’94. The pride of Kingston is rightly part of the Hockey Hall of Fame’s Class of 2011.

TORONTO 2012 | 23

Fashion Inside Toronto’s thriving style scene Modern shoppers are a savvy set. They want it all: exciting emerging designers, go-to fashion labels and retail experiences that range from high-end designer flagships to indie boutiques stocked with off-the-radar finds. By Laura deCarufel Pink Tartan

JEREMY LAING Labelled “one to

PINK TARTAN Kim Catrall, Kate Hudson, Maggie Gyllenhaal. Pink Tartan, helmed by Kim NewportMimran, boasts a diverse celeb following. “The key to Kim’s success is that she knows her client,” says Lara Ceroni, ELLE Canada’s senior web editor. “The women who wear Pink Tartan know exactly what they’re getting: classic investment pieces that can transition effortlessly from the office to after-work cocktails.” The look is preppy and polished with undertones of fashion-forward innovation—think sophisticated shirt dresses, luxe cashmere coats and the occasional skin-tight leather pencil skirt.

Philip Sparks

24 | www.SeeTorontoNow.com

Pink Tartan

PHILIP SPARKS Originally a menswear designer, Philip Sparks branched out into womenswear in 2010, inspiring

Jeremy Laing

rhapsodic tweets from the local style set. His aesthetic—sweet nostalgia that would be at home in a ’70s photo album—appeals to both genders, who snap up cozy cable-knit sweaters, plaid button-downs, and belted shirtdresses. “His clothes are undeniably, incredibly wearable, but that doesn’t mean he’s lost a sense of style for function,” says Ceroni. “His fabrics are very Canadiana—wool, plaid, sheepskin, tweed. Instead of shunning his roots, he champions them.”

Photos: George Pimentel (Pink Tartan); Collective Edit (Jeremy Laing); Philip Sparks

watch” since his 2005 debut, Laing is a current favourite of both Vogue and Style.com. Nicholas Mellamphy, creative director of The Room at the Bay, is similarly enamoured. “Jeremy Laing has a distinct vision,” he explains. “He is so singular with his use of texture, print and unusual fabrics.” Known for combining expert tailoring with a penchant for drapery, Laing was recently nominated for France’s prestigious ANDAM award. As Mellamphy notes, “Few Canadians have been able to break out of the pack and be considered as a hot international up-and-coming designer, but Laing has done it.”

ARTHUR MENDONÇA After a recession-induced hiatus in 2008, Arthur Mendonça relaunched his eponymous line last year, much to the delight of famous fans such as Canadian singer Nelly Furtado. His claims to fame are designs that honour the female form and use sumptuous fabrics and a beautiful colour palette. His signature look—sleek, sexy and fashionable—has translated into shimmering sequined dresses and tailored tuxedo suits, which has struck a chord on the global fashion front. According to Mellamphy, Mendonça’s fashion future is looking bright: “I’ve been receiving calls from New York requesting his runway gowns.” GRETA CONSTANTINE Founded by

Stephen Wong and Kirk Pickersgill in 2006, Greta Constantine is a current favourite label among Toronto fashion editors. “Their silk jersey dresses are sexy, feminine and yet incredibly easy to pull off,” says Ceroni. “You can throw on one of their Grecian-inspired gowns for a work function straight from the office and it instantly looks as though you’ve spent hours fussing

Greta Constantine

Bustle

Photos: Jenna Marie Wakani (Greta Constantine); George Pimentel (Bustle); Arthur Mendonça

“Whether in Hollywood or at home, the label is all about attracting attention.” over your outfit.” Greta Constantine has also found an audience with the stars, including A-list fans Angelina Jolie, Victoria Beckham and Naomi Campbell. Whether in Hollywood or at home, the label is all about attracting attention. Or as Ceroni puts it, “It’s for young women who want to elicit a response with what they wear. Wallflowers need not apply!”

BUSTLE Back in 2004, lawyers Shawn

Hewson and Ruth Promislow left their corporate Bay Street digs to focus on their nascent menswear line, Arthur Mendonça

Bustle Clothing. Today, the cheeky chic sportswear label counts celebs such as Nicole Ritchie and Jesse Metcalfe among its followers. The vibe is preppy hipster with a twist: ironic T-shirts, patterned shirts, bow ties and a fondness for sea-foam green. Clearly, the design team doesn’t take fashion too, too seriously. It’s an approach that works. Hewson and Promislow have collaborated with brands such as Audi, Vespa and, most recently, Toronto’s Hotel Le Germain Maple Leaf Square, for which they designed the staff uniforms. TORONTO 2012 | 25

Shop

Toronto is a shopper’s delight, whether you’re browsing for indie vintage finds, super-trendy designer pieces—or anything in between. Here are three can’t-miss hot spots. Joe Fresh

Project : Runways An insider’s guide to the local fashion scene The Star

BLOOR/ YORKVILLE Until recently, this upscale area was known for boutiques

bearing boldfaced names like Chanel, Prada and Max Mara. Now, those A-listers share the neighbourhood with an array of edgy stores, including UPC Boutique and nearby RAC Boutique, which offer in-the-know labels such as Wasson, Rodebjer and Canadian jewellery designer Jenny Bird. Just down the street from RAC on Cumberland Avenue, Eleven stocks only Canadian designer fashion: polished dresses by Vancouver label Obakki (Kate Hudson is a fan) and bold baubles by Toronto jewellery designer Rita Tesolin.

WEST QUEEN WEST With its bustle of cafés and indie boutiques, West Queen West

(from Tecumseh Street to Sorauren Avenue) is the perfect place to shop. Pho Pa owner Alexia Lewis takes pride in featuring up-and-coming Canadian labels like Juma. Down the street, Charlie specializes in lovely, ladylike frocks, while Robber caters to the ironicglasses crowd. Gents love the preppy Brit vibe at Ben Sherman, Klaxon Howl’s urban lumberjack style and the creative cufflinks on offer at GreenShag (left). Further west, dreamy Bicyclette offers pieces fit for a modern heartbreaker. A few blocks down, House of Vintage marks a multiblock stretch of jewel-box vintage shops, including The Future of Frances Watson, Philistine and The Public Butter. It’s not all retro retail, though. Made You Look, a hip jewellery store/collective, is a must-visit.

Mall HOP Toronto has malls in every size, especially large. Browse the perennial downtown favourite, the Eaton Centre, then venture north to chic Yorkdale or the open-air Shops at Don Mills. In the west, standouts include Sherway Gardens in Etobicoke, Square One in Mississauga and Brampton’s Bramalea City Centre. 26 | www.SeeTorontoNow.com

The Up-and-Comer Held every July, Frugal Fashion Week benefits the Stiletto Project (which supports at-risk women) with a “frugalista” blend of pop-up shops and installations.

The Indie Known colloquially as FAT (Fashion, Art, Toronto), Toronto Alternative Arts and Fashion Week occurs every April, offering a stylish spring mix of fashion shows, photo exhibits and installation art.

Photos: Oxford Properties (Yorkdale); Joe Fresh

Yorkdale Shopping Centre, a north Toronto hot spot

Every March and October, the style set descends on LG Fashion Week, the hotly anticipated official showcase of both established brands such as Joe Fresh and Pink Tartan and new talents such as Amanda Lew Kee and Chloé Comme Paris. In 2012, the action is headquartered at downtown Pecaut Square, which transforms into a fashion mecca complete with white tents, spotlights and street-style photographers— and iPhone-wielding amateurs—snapping fashionistas on break between shows. It’s the city’s fashion HQ, with a front row filled with Toronto’s top editors, bloggers and fashion fans.

Side Trips Go ahead and use Toronto as a convenient hub from which to explore some of Ontario’s stellar attractions and natural beauty. By Aliyah Shamsher

Lake Huron

Tobermory What we love: Calling all divers, hikers, kayakers, golfers and even art lovers: Hike the majestic cliffs of the Niagara Escarpment or scuba dive along Canada’s National Marine Park. Eat local: Try the Georgian Bay whitefish prepared three ways at the Grandview Dining Room overlooking the bay. For a more casual atmosphere, follow the locals to The Fish & Chip Place. Stratford What we love: The architecture still reflects the prosperity and grandeur of Stratford’s Victorian past, while the city’s Stratford Shakespeare Festival is the best around. Eat local: At Rundles, a favourite pre-theatre spot among locals, choose the River Room for formal dining or the Garden Room to try chef Neil Baxter’s take on casual French haute cuisine. The Chocolate Trail—21 shops offering everything chocolate, from biscotti to chocolate mint tea—provides the ultimate sweet finish.

Point Pelee What we love: As Canada’s most southern point, Point Pelee is celebrated for its world-renowned bird sanctuary, and has captivated visitors who marvel at the annual migration of birds and butterflies. Eat local: First sip, and then dine, at Pelee Island Winery, where an in-depth look at the winemaking process is followed by a how-to session on wine and food pairing.

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401 403

Lake Erie

Cambridge What we love: The Cambridge Farmers’ Market opened around 1830 and is the third-oldest market in the country. The city is also future-focused: Cambridge was awarded the 2011 Laureate Medal from Computerworld for innovative technology. Eat local: Acclaimed grand Chef Jonathan Gushue serves up seasonal organic ingredients from the on-site Langdon Hall kitchen vegetable garden at the award-winning The Dining Room.

Manitoulin Island What we love: With its status as the largest freshwater island in the world, Manitoulin Island attracts adventure enthusiasts year-round for outdoor fun, such as hiking and biking in summertime and ice fishing and snowmobiling in winter. Eat local: A flower-bedecked farmhouse turned local eatery, The Garden’s Gate is known for its creative use of local ingredients.

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Muskoka What we love: National Geographic travel editors recently chose Muskoka as the number one summer destination for its 1,600 lakes, granite cliffs carved out of the Canadian shield and artistically gnarled pine trees. Eat local: Rub shoulders with guests like Goldie Hawn and Kate Hudson at Rosseau Grill at Windermere House. 400

Ottawa What we love: As Canada’s capital, this dynamic city—with more than one million residents—is always buzzing. Visit Parliament Hill or one of the many museums, galleries and theatre companies, or take in the Rideau Canal, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Eat local: Ottawa’s restaurant scene radiates outward from the Byward Market. Our top picks: Castlegarth for its bowl of pappa al pomodoro, and Town for its rich ricotta gnudi and smoked pork ragout.

Photos: Heringa/Ontario Tourism (Stratford and Cambridge); Danson/Ontario Tourism (Tobermory, Muskoka, Niagara-on-the-Lake, Niagara); Briand/Ontario Tourism (Manitoulin Island); Jeff Speed/Ontario Tourism (Prince Edward County); O’Brien/Ontario Tourism (Ottawa)

Lake Simcoe

401

Toronto Lake Ontario

Niagara-on-the-Lake What we love: Take a carriage ride through the Old Town, or boat up the Niagara River. Then golf, sip and shop your way through what is often referred to as the loveliest town in Ontario. Eat local: Executive chef Jason Parsons, who works with winemaker Lawrence Buhler to showcase wines in his seasonal menus, leads Zagat winner Peller Estates Winery Restaurant.

Niagara Falls What we love: No matter how many times you’ve been to the Falls, it feels like the first time. They never fail to amaze and new attractions pop up regularly. Go classic and take a trip on the Maid of the Mist. Get wild with a Jet Boat Tour at the whirlpool. Or stroll through 40 gorgeous hectares of the Niagara Parks Botanical Gardens. Eat local: The wine list at Monticello Grille House & Wine Bar puts Niagara wines front and centre. Sip your way through the offerings and enjoy it with great nibbles from the antipasto bar. And for value for the money, it’s tough to beat the $20 Grand Buffet at the Fallsview Casino.

Prince Edward County What we love: Ontario’s newest wine region makes a great excursion, with award-winning wineries producing wines from favourite grapes such as Pinot Noir, Riesling and Chardonnay. Eat local: East & Main Bistro—a top choice among Toronto chefs—had the idea to provide luxury comfort food with fresh local ingredients. Owners Kimberly and David do it right.

See ontariotravel.net for travel details and other great Ontario attractions. Pour de plus amples informations sur votre voyage en Ontario, visiter ontariotravel.net

50 KM

TORONTO 2012 | 29

hristina Zeidler spends plenty of time along Queen Street West, home to the Gladstone Hotel, built in 1889 and the oldest continuously operating hotel in Toronto. She is its developer and president, and was instrumental in turning the hotel into one of the hottest spots in the neighbourhood after an intensive renovation in 2005. Also a successful filmmaker, Zeidler has a deep appreciation for the local arts scene. All of which makes her an ideal guide to discover Queen Street West’s burgeoning LGBT scene. Zeidler might start her day at The Depanneur on College Street, a quaint and quiet place where she can grab a frittata or freshly made breakfast sandwich. On a leisurely

8:45 a.m. Breakfast at The Depanneur

morning, she may wander into her favourite galleries along Queen Street, including the Feminist Art Gallery (FAG), the only one of its kind in the city. She has tremendous respect for gallerists/artists Allyson Mitchell and Deidre Logue and their goal to shake up the existing power structures in the world of art. Paul Petro Contemporary Art is also a must-visit gallery for his well-chosen works of contemporary art. Zeidler then goes for a late lunch at Mitzi’s Café. Surrounded by art made by local talent, she savours bites of her poached egg special. Back on Queen, it’s tea time at Tealish, where teas of every description

7:45 a.m. Christina Zeidler relaxes at the Gladstone Hotel 08:45 a.m.

7:45 a.m.

11:35 a.m.

Village People By Michele Sponagle Photography by Johan Hallberg-Campbell

10:25 a.m. Starting the day at Maggie’s

30 | www.SeeTorontoNow.com

haun Proulx has been called “King of All Media” by fab Magazine—a nod to his prolific contributions to television, print, online and social media. Proulx is the founder of Shaun Proulx Media, a company devoted to marketing directed at gay men. Based in Church Wellesley Village, the city’s established gaybourhood, Proulx starts his day at Maggie’s All Day Breakfast on

3:25 p.m. Shopping at Ma Zone

Charles Street. “It’s the best place to grab breakfast, especially the morning after the night before,” he jokes. “The staff is attentive, but not chipper, and Maggie’s does typical breakfast fare with a twist.” Then he might meander over to Jarvis Street to browse at Ma Zone. “It didn’t win its National Retailer of Distinction award without good reasons. This decor shop, just south of the Village, stocks ahead-oftrend pieces ranging from sophisticated to pop.” Couple that with an uptown visit to luxe department

Photo: Sergei Yahchybekov (Christina Zeidler)

Two insiders, two neighbourhoods. Your ultimate guide to LGBT Toronto, from breakfast to browsing to bar-hopping.

10:25 a.m.

11:35 a.m. Exhibit at the Paul Petro Contemporary Art gallery

(dessert, wellness, black, green, white, oolong and herbal) are sold, served and perfectly steeped. Though she’s not a habitual shopper, Zeidler is a fan of Studio Brillantine, a gay-owned-andoperated decor boutique in Parkdale that has an eclectic array of iconic objects from names such as Alessi, Rosenthal and Philippe Starck. Or she’ll browse through MADE on Dundas, which features work from The Brothers Dressier

and the Loyal Loot Collective, and INabstracto for design-forward items, from Frank Gehry–designed tables and chairs to birchwood lamps by Canadian Alex Suvjac. For dinner, it’s a table at her favourite restaurant, not surprisingly Gladstone Hotel Café or Melody Bar at the Gladstone. “Our focus is on local first and foremost. We deal directly with the farmers,” she explains. “With our cuisine, we take an old-school Canadian approach.” Zeidler is especially pleased with the homemade tourtière the

restaurant serves. “Our chef [Marc Breton] is French Canadian and his version is pretty tough to beat. It’s authentic and delicious.” To ease into the evening, Zeidler meets friends at The Beaver on Queen. “It’s queer owned and it has a great neighbourhood feel.” Then the night cranks up at The Henhouse on Dundas, where DJs spin tunes into the wee hours.

2:45 p.m. Shopping at Studio Brillantine

6:25 p.m.Dinner at the Gladstone Hotel Café 6:25 p.m.

2:45 p.m.

3:25 p.m.

7:25 p.m.

store Holt Renfrew. “It has to be included because haute shopping is a culture experience, darling.” Post-shopping, Proulx sets out for lunch. His pick? “I’m going to tell you a secret: The Carlton inside the new Holiday Inn in the Village. It just had a multimillion-dollar reno. It’s lovely, spacious, with an open-concept kitchen so you feel the energy of the chefs. Perfect for a private tête-a-tête.” After an afternoon on his laptop, Proulx is ready to chill. For predinner cocktails, Proulx likes Byzantium, a Village institution. “It’s always sexy and has an endless martini menu—perfect for an end7:25 p.m. It’s the cocktail hour at Byzantium

of-day treat, or a night out that leaves you glowing.” Come dinnertime, he heads to Fuzion in the Village. “It has a warm, earthy decor and sublime gastronomical offerings. In finer weather, the outdoor lounge is the place to see and be seen.” The energy goes into overdrive at the popular nightclub Fly. “It has my heart forever and ever, amen. It’s where international DJs touch down and club kids do their thing until dawn. It’s Toronto’s Studio 54.” For a nightcap, Proulx steps a tad outside the Village to go to The House on Parliament (affectionately known as The HOP). “There’s a mixed crowd and true pub grub with upscale fare, like a Kobe burger to die for.” On the nights when dancing isn’t in the cards, Proulx recommends Buddies in Bad Times, North America’s pre-eminent queer theatre company. “I find it thoughtprovoking every time I go.” Though

08:55 p.m.

8:55 p.m. Shaun Proulx socializing at Fuzion

it comes just once a year, Halloween on Church Street has to be experienced. And, Proulx adds, “SNAP!, the annual photographic fundraiser for the AIDS Committee of Toronto, is artsy, hip, inspiring and one hell of a party for a good cause.” TORONTO 2012 | 31

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Exquisite flavours FROM AROUND the world, local ingredients and skilled artisans meet in Toronto to create an unbeatably dynamic and delicious culinary scene.

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HOT STUFF

Four of Toronto’s top chefs dish on the ingredients, markets and neighbourhood eateries that continue to fuel their fire. By James Chatto

amazing breadth of quality that we take for granted. We should be screaming about these places.

— What about the ingredients that are available? I love the pickerel and whitefish we get from the Great Lakes. Awesome quality! I use the pickerel on steamed buns at Bannock with cucumber-apple salad and a spoonful of local caviar. I’ve been so influenced by the great Asian restaurants in this city.

whO Anthony Walsh years in the business 22 restaurantS Canoe and Bannock style of food Canadian comfort food, from Toronto’s diverse communities to B.C. tuna teriyaki — If you opened a Bannock in Calgary or Vancouver would the menu be the same? No. People in different cities have different comfort foods. My comfort food is pork bone soup from Owl of Minerva, a Korean restaurant that’s open 24 hours a day, close to where I live. But it might just as easily be congee from one of those places up in Markham, or something from Little India. Toronto has this 34 | www.SeeTorontoNow.com

— what’s your favourite place for a quick bite? Foxley is one. The owner-chef Tom Thai is one of the most talented cooks out there. — What’s the city’s best-kept secret? The porchetta at Vicentina, the Italian butcher’s shop up in Woodbridge. It’s done old-school with black pepper, chilies, salt and rosemary, the pork wrapped in the skin and roasted really slow. Unbelievable.

Photos: Chris Young (Walsh); Steve Krug (Tomaszeski); others courtesy of respective restaurants

whO Corbin Tomaszeski years in the business 23 restaurant C5, Royal Ontario Museum style of food Refined yet simple, classic and creatively presented VisitToronto

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— You’ve lived in Toronto since 2000. How has the city influenced your cooking? Toronto has so many pockets where you can be completely thrown into a new culture. And it’s not just tiny areas—there are these large neighbourhoods that reflect culture in their art, dance and, of course, in their food. I love food that tells a story and that’s what these neighbourhoods do best. You go to a Polish restaurant on Roncesvalles and, along with your meal, you get a snapshot of a different way of life. I love that. I want to create experiences that people will remember. — What’s your favourite place for a quick bite to eat? I live in the Beach area, not far from Gerrard and Coxwell, and there are tons of great little Indian restaurants around there. They’re not fancy, but the food is delicious. I like Leslieville and Ossington, too, for trying out new restaurants. I love visiting St. Lawrence Market, but also little markets that pop up in the park.

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— What’s your favourite food shop? Diana’s Seafood Delight near Warden and Lawrence. Everything is so fresh and unbelievably good, but it’s the family that runs the business that makes the experience so special. They remember your name, what you like, and they’re always excited to show you what’s new. As a chef, that’s the kind of passion I look for in a purveyor.

“In Toronto, you can enjoy so many different types of cuisine, but you can also have totally unique sensory food experiences.” ••• — What’s your must-have local ingredient and why? I love so many, but I’d have to highlight Fifth Town Cheese Co. and Cuvée Catherine sparkling wine from Niagara. TORONTO 2012 | 35

D f Olympics and cooked a Canadian breakfast for the international press. Other chefs did smoked salmon on pancakes with maple syrup. I did a sweet potato dosa and we made a fabulous chutney with Ontario pears and apples. Now that’s a Toronto dish!

— Where do you go for a quick bite to eat? Curry Twist. It’s very small, warm and friendly with a nice little open kitchen. The fellows who own it are there all the time, and they make the city’s best naan bread.

whO Donna Dooher

— favourite food shops? I live in the Roncesvalles area, one of the few neighbourhoods left in Toronto that has a little greengrocer on every corner—ones where the owners take a lot of care with fruits and vegetables. For professional kitchen gadgets, I’m still a Nikolaou girl [Nikolaou Restaurant Equipment]. — What is Toronto’s best-kept foodie secret? The pierogies at Café Polonez. It’s been open 30 years and they do a great job.

years in the business 20 restaurant Mildred’s Temple Kitchen style of food Local and seasonal, with a nod to Toronto’s ethnic communities — Is there such a thing as a Toronto cuisine? We produce wonderful ingredients and excellent cooks, but we are not at the point where we can say this is our definitive cuisine. What we can do is celebrate our amazing diversity—not just in different cuisines but in the people who work in our kitchens. At MTK we have cooks from Russia and Tibet, Sri Lanka, China. I can’t tell you how much inspiration and knowledge has come my way just by working alongside them. — What are your favourite local ingredients? We have the best apples! And great sweet potatoes. I went out to Vancouver during the Food Lover’s Almanac

Save and savour the date 36 | www.SeeTorontoNow.com

Winterlicious ( January 27—February 9) More than 150 restaurants challenge the winter blahs by creating special three-course lunch and dinner menus at very reasonable prices. toronto.ca/special_events

The Toronto Wine & Cheese Show (March) This three-day event dedicated to gourmet foods, wines, beers and spirits is held annually at the International Centre, Mississauga. towineandcheese.com

Summerlicious ( July) Take advantage of prix-fixe menus offered at top eateries once again at this muchanticipated event. toronto.ca/special_events

Photos: Chris Young (Dooher, Yoshida); others courtesy of respective restaurants

and I’m always excited when I find something new. My favourite is wild leeks, something we never use in Japan. I pick a bunch in the early spring and pickle half of them, use the rest fresh. Tuna with wild leek is a great match.

— How has working in Toronto influenced your cuisine? I still do traditional Edomae sushi and I don’t want to change that, but things are different here. Even the seasons! In Japan, we have four distinct and roughly equal seasons, each of which brings its own ingredients, so it’s easy for a chef to follow nature. Here, the winter is so long, summer is short and spring even shorter. It presents different challenges.

whO Hiro Yoshida years in the business 21 restaurant Hiro Sushi style of food Serious sushi with a twist Festival of Beer (August) Though the focus here is on beer, food plays an important role at this popular summer festival. Top chefs are on hand to show how beer and food come together. beerfestival.ca VisitToronto

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— so you must find other ingredients? Exactly. I use several suppliers in Toronto who bring in European fish—sardines and sticklebacks from Portugal, Italian anchovies. Fresh ingredients are always moody, depending on conditions in the ocean. But I have learned from the fishmongers, seen how they marinate sardines in olive oil with nothing but salt and a little garlic. I’ve borrowed that idea. I’m still studying local Ontario ingredients

Pilaros Taste of the Danforth (August 10—12) Toronto’s lively Greektown becomes a gourmet delight with the smell of grilled meat and garlic wafting through the air. tasteofthedanforth.com Mobile App SeeToronto

— What’s your must-try local find? Pho Tien Thanh is a Vietnamese noodle restaurant that’s on my daily shopping route. After I’ve been to City Fish and Newport, two of my fish suppliers, and to Lady York for Italian vegetables, I stop by for a bowl of pho with beef and tripe and an order of crispy little spring rolls. They’re finger-size and really excellent. I should steal that recipe one day.

“I’m still studying local Ontario ingredients and I’m always excited when I find something new.” ••• — Is there a hidden spot you would go TO for a date night? There’s a French bistro called Batifole close to the Chinatown near Gerrard Street and Broadview Avenue. It’s not much of a secret, but I like it very much. It’s very intimate with good, reasonably priced food and a nice selection of wines.

Vegetarian Food Festival (September) The gorgeous harbourfront setting for this long-running event, the largest of its kind in North America, adds to the fun factor. Sample new products and pick up some cooking tips. veg.ca

Gourmet Food & Wine Expo (November) No matter your level of wine know ledge, you’re sure to learn plenty from the experts on hand and have a blast nibbling on gourmet fare, too. foodandwineexpo.ca TORONTO 2012 | 37

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SHAKE IT UP our finest mixologists spill on the city’s hottest cocktails. By Margaret Swaine

38 | www.SeeTorontoNow.com

orth America is going through a cocktail craze—and Toronto’s skilled mixologists are pouring their souls into the shakers, making drinks that steal the bar scene. These are cocktails that haunt your mind like an old flame, lingering in spirit long after the last drop is gone. Top shelf in this game? Frankie Solarik, whose devoted followers crowd into BarChef on Queen Street West. BarChef was selected as one of the top seven innovative new bars in the world by Food & Wine magazine, and every cocktail on its menu is 100-percent original. Solarik truly is a bar chef, working with molecular foams, gelatinous forms, smoke and infusions.

1 Frankie Solarik of

BarChef has built a loyal following for his innovative cocktails. 2 At the Black Hoof,

Jen Agg takes a classical approach to her drinks. 3 David Mitten

Photos: Kevin Gonsalves

pours cocktails with a global influence at the Harbord Room.

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The Vanilla Infused Manhattan is Solarik’s signature showpiece. Served in a huge bell jar filled with smoke, this mix of rye, made-in-house cherry vanilla bitters, hickory-smoked syrup and vanilla cognac tastes like a campfire-burnt marshmallow—albeit a deeply tasty and satisfying one. It’s a $45 cocktail, but that hasn’t stopped the bar from selling more than 3,000 of them. Asked about fellow Toronto mixologists whose work he admires, Solarik names Rob Montgomery at the Miller Tavern, Nishan Chandra at Blowfish, Kai Bent-Lee (powerhouse-chef Susur Lee’s son) at Lee and David Mitten at the Harbord Room. Mitten is a name that frequently comes up as one of Toronto’s in-the-know innovative mixologists. The New Brunswick native bartended all over the world before landing a job at Toronto’s Rivoli. In 2005, he and a partner opened Czehoski, the Queen West hipster haunt. Mitten’s latest venture is the Harbord Room, which he opened in 2009 with chef Cory Vitiello, formerly of the Drake Hotel. The drinks at the Harbord Room are variations on classics as well as original creations such as the Ronald Clayton

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(inspired by Mitten’s grandfather), made with Crown Royal whisky, vanilla, tobacco syrup and maple bitters. Jen Agg, who opened the Black Hoof on Dundas Street West with Grant van Gemeren in 2008, is another cocktail whiz of note. Her cocktails are classic, but with fresh, modern twists. The Hoof Manhattan mixes 10-yearold Alberta rye with sweet vermouth, Agg’s own spice-heavy bitters and a booze-infused cherry in the glass. Bill Sweete opened The Toronto Temperance Society (TTS) on College Street with the aim of creating Toronto’s first pre-Prohibition-style cocktail bar. “Our idea was to reach back and recreate that era,” says Sweete, an early player in Toronto’s cocktail revolution. At TTS, the bartenders create timeless cocktails such as Manhattans and Sazeracs using original methods and premium spirits. While some of their recipes are new, the majority are adapted from recipes that go back 100 years or more. Forgotten favourites such as the Aviation (gin, maraschino liqueur, lemon juice) and Vieux Carré (cognac, Sazerac, Benedictine, Carpano Antica) have been revived. Not to be outdone, many of the hippest, happening hotels have revved up their cocktail lists. Moses McIntee, head bartender at the RitzCarlton, lights up the night with the Blue Blazer, a classic cocktail made sensational by pouring a fiery blue flame between a pair of silver mugs. This “flairtending” technique dates back to the 1850s. At the Gladstone Hotel, the revamped Melody bar has a new cocktail list that conjures an old-school feeling. Highlights include the Marmalade Sour, the Blood, Sand and Smoke, and the Beet It (made with beet juice). One thing is for certain, what’s old has become new again. Welcome back.

Learn to make your own Torontini cocktail at

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TORONTO 2012 | 39

VINE LINES

ICEWINE. MERLOT. CHARDONNAY. ONTARIO’S LEADING WINEMAKERS ARE JUST GETTING STARTED.

et’s raise a glass to Ontario wines. They compete successfully on the international stage, supported by a vibrant industry that’s growing in both size and diversity every year. And wine drinkers have a bounty of excellent choices, crafted at the hands of the best winemakers on the planet. The number of Ontario wineries jumped from just 18 in 1989 to more than 150 today. Last year, they produced wine worth more than $650 million. In particular, Vintners Quality Alliance (VQA) wine, which meets specific quality criteria for how the wine is made, is one of the fastestgrowing categories in Ontario liquor stores. The proof is in the bottle. Take just three of Niagara’s most established wineries: Inniskillin, Jackson-Triggs and Reif Estate Winery. All three wineries have won hundreds of medals in the most prestigious competitions. Inniskillin first put Canada on the wine map more than 20 years ago with its spectacular icewine—dessert wine made from grapes frozen while still on the vine. It continues to win the most coveted awards in the industry, including the Best in Class for both icewine and dry table wine at the International Wine & Spirit Competition in London. At the same competition last year, Jackson-Triggs captured the Best Canadian Producer Award, along with medals for its Entourage sparkling wine, among others. Reif Estate Winery won the Best Canadian Producer Award in 2002, and its icewines continue to sweep up the medals at the annual Cuvée Awards, considered the Oscars of Canadian wine.

40 | www.SeeTorontoNow.com

Wineries such as Vineland Estates, Cave Spring Cellars, Peller Estates and Hillebrand are branching out into world-class wine and food pairing. Each has award-winning restaurants where you can savour their wines paired with a range of sumptuous dishes. They’re perfect stops for lunch or dinner when you’re travelling around wine country. While the Niagara Peninsula is the best-known region for Ontario wine, three other regions are catching up: Lake Erie North Shore, Pelee Island and Prince Edward County. They, too, offer a wide range of wines that include not only icewine, but also dry red, white, sparkling and rosé styles. Lake Erie North Shore’s Colio Estate Vineyards won Les Citadelles du Vin’s Trophée Prestige for its 2000 Merlot Reserve. This was the first time an Ontario merlot had ever claimed such an award, and what is truly impressive is that it was won in the backyard of the home of the merlot grape: Bordeaux, France. In Prince Edward County, Closson Chase, founded by Seaton McLean, television producer, filmmaker and former president of Alliance

1 Toasting with

Ontario white wine. 2 Anne Yarymowich

of Frank stocks up on local vintages. 3 Niagara grapes

bound for the bottle.

Photos: Ontario Tourism (glasses, grapes); Kevin Gonsalves (bottles, Yarymowich)

By Natalie Maclean

“There are so many Ontario award-winners and rising stars that trying to include them all could drive you to drink.” •••

Atlantis Communications, and his actor wife Sonja Smits, of “Street Legal” fame, was the first winery to win the inaugural Larry Paterson Award at the Ontario Wine Awards. Winemaker Deborah Paskus was recognized for her efforts as “the person who has demonstrated innovation in the vineyards.” Then there are the up-and-coming new wineries, a number of which are aided by industry veterans. For example, Domaine Equifera Estate vineyards, planted on several acres of Niagara Peninsula farmland that was originally home to legendary racehorses, are now making their mark out of the gate thanks to Inniskillin’s founder Donald Ziraldo. Together they have just launched Equifera Icewines to appeal to younger gourmet-seeking consumers. The 2008 Vidal Icewine was the Sweepstake Winner, Best

Dessert Wine at the 2011 Riverside International Wine Competition in California. In 2009, Le Clos Jordanne won the Judgment of Montreal tasting, an incredible recreation of the 1976 Judgment of Paris tasting in which California wines were blind tasted by experts and beat their French counterparts. In this historic event, Le Clos Jordanne’s Claystone Terrace Chardonnay competed against 16 superlative Burgundian and Californian Chardonnays and took home the top honours. Even more surprising was the fact that 2005 was only the second year of production for the wine. There are so many more Ontario wine awardwinners and rising stars that trying to include them all in one article could drive you to drink. Fortunately, there are lots of terrific Ontario wines to choose from when this happens.

LocalSips What’s the newest pairing to hit the tables of Toronto? Ontario wine. Crush Wine Bar There are 45 Ontario wines on the list and more than 25 offered by the glass. Highlight: 1999 Henry of Pelham Riesling. Epic Restaurant, Fairmont Royal York Hotel Take your pick of over 65 Ontario wines on Epic’s continually growing wine list. Highlight: 2010 Hidden Bench Bistro Rosé. Allen’s Restaurant Truly invested in Ontario’s wine production, Allen’s has more than 150 Ontario wines to choose from. Highlight: Le Grand Clos Chardonnay 2004.

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Frank Restaurant, Art Gallery of Ontario Carrying Ontario wines exclusively, Frank features more than 80 bottles on its list and 11 by the glass. Highlight: Cave Spring Riesling Reserve 2007. Canoe Restaurant & Bar A champion of Canadian food and Canadian wine, you can find more than 150 Ontario wines on the list. Highlight: Leaning Post Pinot Noir (made from some of the oldest Pinot Noir vines in Ontario).

TORONTO 2012 | 41

PINT-SIZED BREWERIES MAKE A MAJOR IMPACT ON CITY’S GROWING BEER LANDSCAPE.By Stephen Beaumont

BREW REVIEW PINT-SIZE BREWERIES MAKE A MAJOR IMPACT ON THE CITY’S GROWING BEER LANDSCAPE. By Stephen Beaumont

he Upper Canada Brewing Company, Toronto’s first modern craft brewery, opened its doors in 1985—which means that what we originally called “microbrewing” has existed for over a quarter century in Canada’s largest city. Having primed its palate in the 1990s and the early 2000s, Hogtown now finally seems ready to change its name to Beertown. One of the earliest, and still among the best, places to “drink local” is at the Front Street stalwart C’est What. The basement pub is a proverbial beer lover’s paradise, with 35 kegs and casks of all-Canadian, craft-brewed ales and lagers, including several of their own creation. Brush up on the bar’s beer philosophy by reading its Craft Beer Manifesto, posted at www.cestwhat.com. Just up the road from C’est What, beerbistro is another Toronto beer pioneer. Trendier than a pub and more casual than a fancy restaurant, beerbistro features a wide array of domestic and international beers, including numerous exclusives. It also boasts a food menu heavy on “beer cuisine,” including beer-flavoured ice creams. You

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may never look at beer the same way again. Downtown’s biggest and best-known brewery is Steam Whistle Brewing, located in a historic roundhouse at the foot of the CN Tower. The $10, 30-minute tour incorporates elements of Toronto history, and begins and ends with a beer tasting: a sharply malty and refreshing lager, the brewery’s sole brand. Not far from Steam Whistle, at the foot of Bathurst Street, the Amsterdam Brewing Company provides contrast to the former brewery’s single brand strategy with a wide range of regular and seasonal releases, including a strong, malty Wee Heavy for winter and a fresh and lively Oranje Weisse in summer. They don’t give tours, but tutored tastings are offered on the weekend for $10 a person. Across downtown in the city’s historic Distillery District, the Mill Street Brew Pub offers an even wider selection of brews on their constantly changing draught taps, in what was once the tank house of the old Gooderham & Worts distillery—small wonder, then, that the name of their flagship pale ale is Tankhouse! Tours aren’t regularly

Photos: Gizelle Lau

1 Steam Whistle

Brewing is well known for its excellent pilsner. 2 Mill St. Brew Pub

is in the heart of The Distillery District.

3 Many a pint has been

raised at Bar Volo.

scheduled, but if they aren’t too busy, one of the brewers will usually be happy to walk you through the process from the dry side of the glass brewery walls. The Indie Ale House, which opened this past fall in the Junction neighbourhood (near Dundas West and Keele streets), is an ambitious brewery pub that brings brewing to a district that remained “dry” right up until the turn of the century. Thirsty Junction-ites are no doubt grateful. For inspiration, the Indie Ale House can look to the Granite Brewery and Restaurant, a brew pub survivor now entering its third decade of operation. Renowned for its cask-conditioned ales—English-style brews that receive their final fermentation in the barrel and are served at cool rather than cold temperatures—the Granite is an oasis of fine beer and pub food in the thriving Yonge and Eglinton neighbourhood. When all that’s in order is a burger and a pint, heed the

Arguably Toronto’s finest beer destination, however, is in a location almost more unlikely than a suburban city centre. On an ever-changing strip of Yonge Street just below Bloor Street, Bar Volo has stubbornly survived for over 25 years, first as an Italian bistro, then as a beer-themed restaurant and most recently as a new breed: a “nanobrewery,” producing two keg batches of ale in a corner of its modestly sized kitchen. With a near-constant rotation of kegs and casks, Volo is beer central for travellers looking to sample the newest and most exciting brews from out back, across the province or around the globe. It’s another vital cog in the engine that is transforming Toronto into Beertown.

“Renowned for its cask-conditioned ales, the Granite Brewery is an oasis of fine beer and pub food.” •••

call of the Burger Bar in Kensington Market. Whether you like your patty veggie or made with organically raised all-Ontario beef, the Burger Bar has you covered, with an eclectic range of beers, including its own Augusta Ale, to complement your choice. For the ultimate breadth of selection, head a little further afield to central Mississauga’s West 50 Pourhouse & Grille. Boasting more than 100 taps, this restaurant and bar—near the Square One Shopping Centre—has enough to keep the dedicated beer aficionado busy for hours.

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TORONTO 2012 | 43

THE

LUXE

LIFE

Photography by GeneviĂ¨ve Caron

lamour and glitz have found a home in Toronto. From celebrity chefs to A-list boutiques, the city shines with an

abundance of offerings that delight the most discerning travellers. Sip champagne on a spectacular rooftop under the stars, admire the city’s skyline from a prime spot on the water and hit the town to discover haute and happening restaurants. It’s all here. And it’s fabulous. Toronto has always been a city that has prided itself on having it all. Now it has more, especially when it comes to luxury. Currently on the chic set’s radar? The Thompson Hotel rooftop, complete with saltwater pool, creative cocktails and stunning skyline views. Other downtown “It” spots include the newly opened Ritz-Carlton (where the spa is a must-visit), and La Société, a stylish 1920s-themed restaurant that attracts modern arbiters of the beau monde. Whether you want to dress to the nines and enjoy a sophisticated night out or you prefer to create your own oasis away from the crowds, Toronto boasts a full menu of ultra-luxe experiences. Stay tuned: In 2012, Trump International Hotel & Tower, Shangri-La and Four Seasons are due to open, bringing an array of top chefs (such as Daniel Boulud and Todd Clarmo) to the city’s flourishing fine dining scene.

TORONTO 2012 | 45

Star Treks It’s easy to spot celebrities in Toronto, home to some of the biggest A-listers on the planet. By Stephen Knight

hey say you don’t truly know someone until you’ve walked a mile in their shoes. The same goes for a city. When you’re trying to get your head around the massive feast of entertainment options in Toronto, it’s helpful to know that some of today’s A-list entertainers have a major connection to the city. Take Rachel McAdams. Before she became a Hollywood sensation in movies like Wedding Crashers, The Notebook and The Time Traveler’s Wife, the Canadian actress studied theatre at York University. In 2001, the 33-year-old native of St. Thomas, Ontario, graduated from York University with a bachelor of fine arts degree and got her start in show biz performing with Toronto’s Necessary Angel Theatre Company. Her roots still run deep here. She lives in The Annex neighbourhood and can be spotted at Oyster Boy eating fish ’n’ chips or partying at Stones Place, a local bar. When asked why she loves living in Toronto, she replies, “It keeps me grounded.” If you enjoy big-budget productions in equally impressive venues, head to King Street West in the Entertainment District, which has the glittering and modern Princess of Wales Theatre and the legendary Royal Alexandra Theatre, Canada’s oldest continuously 46 | www.SeeTorontoNow.com

operating theatre. In front of these two principal Mirvish venues runs Canada’s Walk of Fame. Here you’ll find the names of our biggest stars embedded in the sidewalk along with stylized maple leafs. In North York, the Toronto Centre for the Arts hosts an eclectic mix of musical performances, romantic comedies and the best of local and international talent. In 2012, Dancap will produce Shrek The Musical, West Side Story and Million Dollar Quartet for this venue. It will also present shows such as Beauty and the Beast at the Four Seasons Centre for the Performing Arts. At the Rose Theatre in Brampton, a diverse lineup that includes everything from Bollywood spectacles to Canadian comics graces the stage. And at Mississauga’s Living Arts Centre, the mix for 2012 includes productions of Swan Lake, Don Giovanni and CATS. The Canadian Stage is a mainstay of the local theatre scene, boasting a full roster of shows at three venues: the Bluma Appel Theatre (St. Lawrence Centre), the Berkeley Street Theatre and the High Park Amphitheatre in the city’s west end. You’ll also want to see the curtain rise at the Jane Mallett Theatre and the 3,100-seat Sony Centre for the Performing Arts, newly renovated for its fiftieth

Photos: Universal Music Canada (Drake): Tourism Toronto (Peters): George Pimentel (McAdams)

Drake

anniversary, and featuring dozens of shows each year drawn from around the world. Just east of the downtown core is the historic Distillery District, home of the Young Centre for the Performing Arts, one of the newer kids on the theatre block and home to the Soulpepper Theatre Company, renowned for its classic presentations of plays by Samuel Beckett, Henrik Ibsen and Tennessee Williams. Or there’s Famous People Players, a black-light puppetry theatre company that employs people with physical and intellectual challenges. As for smaller productions, your program could be full with independent theatres scattered across the downtown core. Check out some of the first-class works at the Factory and Tarragon theatres, as well as Theatre Passe Muraille, Buddies in Bad Times, Annex Theatre, Theatre Rusticle and Hart House Theatre. When you’ve had your fill of thespian pursuits, amaze your friends by knowing that the Dora Mavor Moore Awards celebrate the best of Toronto theatre every June. oronto-born rapper Aubrey Drake Graham has gone from the cast of Degrassi: The Next Generation to international music stardom. Along the way, Drake has made sure to show Toronto the love with frequent performances in his hometown. He even dedicated his latest CD, Take Care, to the city. The 25-year-old Grammy nominee has played everywhere, from the Molson Canadian Amphitheatre to the Air Canada Centre. Drake’s debut studio album, Thank Me Later, sold 447,000 copies in its first week and quickly went platinum, with sales of more than one million.

Russell Peters

So, whether you’re a fan of arena rock, a connoisseur of indie bands, a jazz or classical lover or a worldmusic aficionado, Toronto has enough concert venues to keep roadies busy until well into the next decade. While some of music’s larger acts and ensembles can be found at the Rogers Centre, Massey Hall, the Molson Amphitheatre or the Air Canada Centre, smaller groups can be found in a handful of venues with colourful histories, including the El Mocambo, Lee’s Palace, the Rivoli, the Horseshoe Tavern, Cameron House, Phoenix Concert Theatre and The Opera House. If jazz is your thing, then the Rex Hotel, Grossman’s, Trane Studio, Dominion on Queen, The Pilot or Reservoir Lounge have you covered. Or check out one of the stellar jazz festivals, like the TD Toronto Jazz Festival, and the Beaches International Jazz Festival. And for indie band fans, put NXNE in your calendar for June 11 to 17. It presents emerging artists along with major headliners in an event devoted to technology and the arts. ne of Canada’s most familiar exports these days is Russell Peters. The 41-year-old star, raised in Brampton, is one of the world’s most successful comedians, and he got his start at Toronto’s Yuk Yuk’s, a comedy-club favourite that helped launch the careers of many Canadian talents, including Jim Carrey, Mike Myers and Howie Mandel.

Rachel McAdams

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TORONTO 2012 | 47

Behind the lens

Today, Peters has a bestselling autobiography, Call Me Russell, as well as a film, Breakaway, which premiered at the 2011 Toronto International Film Festival. Meanwhile, Yuk Yuk’s has also come a long way since it opened in 1976. The venerable comedy institution now has 18 locations across the country, from St. John’s to Vancouver. Founded by Mark Breslin and Joel Axler, it continues to nurture top-notch Canadian talent. The Second City is another legendary North American comedy training ground. Created in Chicago in 1959, the comedy troupe established a beachhead in Toronto in 1973. Graduates of the Canadian edition of Second City include such award-winning funny people as Gilda Radner, Dan Aykroyd, John Candy, Eugene Levy, Catherine O’Hara and Martin Short. One of the best things about Toronto and its venues is that you can experience live theatre, hot music and LOL-worthy comedy within walking distance—sometimes even on the same block! So, now that you are armed with knowledge, we recommend a good night’s sleep, because if you want to sample even a small chunk of Toronto’s generous entertainment offerings, you’ll need an early start.

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Photography is in your family DNA. When did you first pick up a camera, and what kind was it? I’m a third-generation photographer. My grandfather was a photographer, and I was always working in my father’s studio. I would hold the flash at big Portuguese weddings as a young teenager. My brother gave me my first camera when I was 14 years old. It’s a Hasselblad, and I still have it. How did you decide that the red carpet was where you would pursue your career? I just love movies. I love old Hollywood, the glamour and the energy. Who was your first celebrity shot? It was Robert De Niro at the Elgin Theatre in 1993. There were about five or six photographers [there were 1,200 accredited media at the 2011 TIFF]. They said, “All media over here [on the red carpet],” so I went. I was just a guy with a camera. Who is your favourite celebrity to shoot? Madonna. She’s an icon, and everyone loves Madonna. I’ve shot her many times. She sets the tone for everything, and she brings the glam out.

Today, everyone has a digital camera or a cameraphone. Does this affect how you do your job? Yes and no. There’s a lot of low-quality photography out there. There’s not too much glamour in a cellphone [shot]. Also, publicists and management can tighten up on control, because they don’t want to lose control of how the celebrity is perceived, which can affect your access. For you, what is the best part about shooting the Toronto International Film Festival? I love the red carpet and I love the A-listers. I get to actually hear their conversations, and you realize they’re just normal people. I also enjoy going home to crawl into bed at 5 a.m. after a night of shooting. If you could have lunch with anyone you have photographed, who would it be and why? Robert De Niro, and I wouldn’t bring my camera. It would probably be an awkward conversation because I idolize him. Also, Angelina Jolie. She has a good head on her shoulders, and she’s done so much. She really helps the world, and I would love to talk to her about all her experiences. —Stephen Knight

Photos: Tourism Toronto (sign); courtesy of George Pimentel

Meet George Pimentel, Toronto’s celebrity snapper. Catching up with George Pimentel isn’t easy. The Toronto-based photographer extraordinaire is just as much a staple on the red carpet as diamonds and movie stars. If there are celebrities on hand, Pimentel will be there shooting for top Canadian and international magazines. During the 2011 edition of the Toronto International Film Festival, he shot 20,000 photos. How does he do it? Pimentel has some snappy answers.

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Only Toronto in

There is no place in the world like Toronto. It stands apart from other destinations, and is chock full of once-in-alifetime unique, unexpected and unusual experiences. Sure, comparisons to the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s other great cities can be flattering, but there are things to do, see and eat here that you will not find elsewhere. This list proves what many visitors have already discovered: thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s no place like Toronto.

Here are 50 | www.SeeTorontoNow.com

25 reasons why

Take yourself out to the ball game. The Blue Jays are Canada’s only Major League baseball team. Tour the Rogers Centre, home to the world’s first fully retractable roof. An awe-inspiring feat of engineering, it opens or closes in 20 minutes and is 31 storeys high.

The puck stops here for hockey fans. The Hockey Hall of Fame features the world’s largest collection of hockey memorabilia, including the Stanley Cup.

Toronto is home to Casa Loma, North America’s only real, full-size castle, which spreads out over 98 rooms, complete with medieval turrets, gorgeous gardens and secret passageways.

Photos: Doug Brown/Tourism Toronto (Casa Loma); CN Tower (EdgeWalk); Fairmont Hotels & Resorts (apiary)

Feel the heat at North America’s biggest Caribbean festival. The Scotiabank Caribbean Carnival Toronto is a grand-scale shindig that first hit the streets in 1967 and combines wildly creative and colourful costumes with soca, calypso, salsa, steel pan and reggae artists along a 1.5-kilometre route.

The Fairmont Royal York was the first hotel in the world to make its own honey on its rooftop. Now its apiary is home to 300,000 bees that produce more than 363 kilos of honey every year.

There are thrills aplenty at the CN Tower, which is still the tallest freestanding structure in the western hemisphere. Its newest high-rise star? EdgeWalk, the world’s highest full-circle, hands-free walk. Adrenaline seekers stroll at the edge of the CN Tower’s main pod just above 360 Restaurant, along a ledge that’s only 1.5 metres wide, 116 storeys above Toronto.

Bono, Madonna and George Clooney have attended TIFF (Toronto International Film Festival). The annual celebration attracts more than 400,000 moviegoers to films from over 65 countries. It’s North America’s most important film festival.

Like your thrills on a large scale? At Canada’s Wonderland, Leviathan, the country’s fastest (148 km/h), steepest (with an 80-degree drop) and tallest (93.3 metres) roller coaster, is new this summer.

Welcome to a land Down Under—and we’re not talking Australia here. PATH is the largest underground walkway in the world, linking 28 kilometres of shopping, restaurants, services and businesses, and encompassing approximately 1,200 stores.

TORONTO 2012 | 51

Go fish. On Toronto’s doorstep, you can relax with pole in hand and hope for a great catch. The salmon—especially Chinook and Atlantic varieties—are abundant again in the Credit River. The prime spots include Forks of the Credit Provincial Park near Brampton and the harbour in Port Credit in Mississauga, where the river empties into Lake Ontario. It’s urban fishing at its best.

Meet Toronto’s newest polar bear residents, Inukshuk, Aurora and Nikita, who were rescued by the Toronto Zoo after being orphaned in the wild. They live in Tundra Trek, a recently opened state-of-the-art habitat, designed for animals from the North.

The Gardiner Museum of Ceramic Art is the only museum in North America that focuses exclusively on ceramics.

Ride the red rocket, as streetcars are known in Toronto. Hop onboard the 501 Queen streetcar any time, day or night, and enjoy the 24.8-kilometre ride—the longest route in North America.

Often ranked among the best food markets in the world, the St. Lawrence Market has been feeding Torontonians for more than 200 years. Sample your way through a fantastic array of cheeses and breads, and try the wildly popular peameal bacon sandwich. There’s even a vendor who sells nothing but rice (over 40 varieties).

52 | www.SeeTorontoNow.com

Sole-searching begins here. The Bata Shoe Museum boasts the world’s most comprehensive collection of footwear and related artifacts.

Founded in 1914, the Royal Ontario Museum is Canada’s largest museum of world cultures and natural history, with six million objects in its collection. In 2007, it added 175,000 square feet of exhibition space inside the Michael Lee-Chin Crystal—a muchphotographed architectural wonder.

The Toronto Islands are North America’s largest car-free urban community. Bikes and feet are the preferred modes of transportation—the ultimate green scene.

British author Arthur Conan Doyle, creator of Sherlock Holmes, was a frequent visitor to Toronto and Canada. Discover his Canadian connection at the Toronto Reference Library, which has one of the world’s finest collections of Doyle‑related items on display in its A Case of Considerable Interest exhibit.

Opa! Spread along Danforth Avenue, Greektown is home to North America’s largest Greek community. Shop, eat, drink and be merry—Greek-style!

Photos: Metro Zoo (polar bears); Doug Brown/Tourism Toronto (fishing, market, Pride Week); Bata Shoe Museum (shoe); Francisco Pardo (streetcars); CONTACT (photo exhibit)

Here’s some fun that really clicks. The Scotiabank CONTACT Photography Festival is a month-long event, the world’s biggest devoted to the art of photography. It attracts snap-happy camera buffs each May. With more than 1,500 artists showing their work at over 250 venues, this is where inspiration happens.

Held each June, Toronto’s Pride Week is among the biggest organized LGBT events anywhere in the world, with attendance estimated at up to one million people—gay, bisexual, transgender and straight. Already an international affair, the celebration will go truly global when Toronto hosts World Pride in 2014.

The Ontario Science Centre is a hub for innovation and inspiration. It welcomes more than one million guests annually who explore subjects ranging from space to magnetism in an interactive environment.

Architecture fans should head to the Distillery District for a stroll back in time. The area is the site of North America’s largest and best-preserved collection of Victorian industrial architecture.

Head to the Air Canada Centre and cheer on the Toronto Raptors, the only place in Canada to watch live NBA action.

Toronto is home to Canada’s only female master sommelier (one of just 180 in the world). Jennifer Huether works for Maple Leaf Sports and Entertainment, which includes restaurants such as e11even, home to 4,000 bottles displayed in a stunning glass cellar.

TORONTO 2012 | 53

Toronto’s unbeatable holiday spirit spreads warmth and magic. By Michele Sponagle

54 | www.SeeTorontoNow.com

Of course, shopping is front and centre as gift lists grow long with the names of family members and friends. Fortunately, there are superb presents on offer at special events, like the One of a Kind Christmas Show & Sale in late November. More than 800 local artisans gather at the Direct Energy Centre to create a marketplace like no other. If you seek the unique and the truly special, this is a must-stop shop. The Distillery Historic District makes the most of its exceptional setting, complete with cobblestone laneways and stunning historic warehouses. Its December Christmas Market recreates a traditional European shopping experience rarely seen in North America. It attracts crowds of people who love to stroll amid the sparkling decorations, quintessential holiday treats and the spicy

Photos: Doug Brown/Tourism Toronto

’Tis The Season

oronto is a city that loves to celebrate in grand style any time of year, but come the holidays, the revelry is pumped up exponentially for those who love to lose themselves in the magic of the season. And neighbourhoods sparkle with Christmas lights, adding to the festive mood. Once upon a time, Santa came to town on a single float that carried him from Union Square to Eaton’s department store. That was in 1905. Fast-forward more than a century and Santa has plenty of company. The annual Santa Claus Parade brings together more than 25 floats, 25 bands and 1,700 participants, making it one of the longest and biggest in the world. A crowd of over half a million merrymakers ensures that Santa’s arrival at the end of the parade is a warm one, even on a chilly day.

01 The Distillery District turns into an authentic

European Christmas market each year.

02 The holiday season kicks into high gear with

the annual Santa Claus Parade.

03 Windows get the full festive treatment

from students in Ryerson University’s Retail Management program.

04 Shoppers revel in the array of artisans offering

their wares at the One of a Kind Show & Sale.

scent of warm mulled wine in the air and pick up a little something to please a special someone—maybe even themselves. People stroll along Yonge Street in the evenings, then head to Queen Street to enjoy the wonderfully imaginative animated displays in the windows of the Bay’s flagship store. For long-time Toronto residents, this unveiling is a long-standing tradition that has marked the arrival of the holiday season since the early 1900s. One downtown retail strip taps into the talents of Ryerson University’s Retail Management students, who have paired up with Downtown Yonge Street merchants. Their challenge? To create the most dazzling windows possible—on a budget of $100—during the annual Window Wonderland event. You may pass the windows on your way to City Hall and its central gathering place, Nathan

Phillips Square (named for the mayor of Toronto who led the city from 1955 to 1962). The reflecting pool of summer turns into a skating rink in winter. Bring your own skates or rent a pair on-site, and then relax later with a cup of hot chocolate as you watch talented skaters—and wobbly newbies—glide over the ice lap after lap. Be there the last week of November for the Cavalcade of Lights, a tradition for over 45 years, where the city’s official Christmas tree is lit, alongside an amazing fireworks display against the Toronto skyline. Live music amps up the dazzle factor for an evening you won’t forget. Love to soak up more tidings of joy? Attend Illuminite, a holiday lighting ceremony at Yonge-Dundas Square, held around mid-November. Perhaps the most graceful

TORONTO 2012 | 55

56 | www.SeeTorontoNow.com

01 Handel’s Messiah performed at Roy Thomson

Hall is a much-anticipated event.

02 Yorkville gets decked out in all its festive glory. 03 Audiences take in the spectacle of The Nutcracker, a holiday tradition from The National Ballet of Canada. 04 Downtown glitters brightly as night falls.

wildlife lovers may want to head to the Toronto Zoo for the Annual Christmas Treats Walk. For more than 35 years, the zoo’s wild inhabitants have been receiving a Christmas-themed treat from the resident zookeeper on this special day. Visitors get a treat too: halfprice admission. For New Year’s Eve, a celebration on a grand scale is a fitting denouement to the holiday season. Families and friends of every age flock to Nathan Phillips Square once again to whoop it up and ring in the new year. The event showcases top musical acts at the very welcome post-holiday price of zero. And public transit is free for the evening, courtesy of the Toronto Transit Commission. It’s one more reason to celebrate another great holiday season in the city.

Photos: Cylia von Tiedmann (orchestra); Doug Brown/Tourism Toronto (Christmas tree, street); Bruce Zinger (The Nutcracker)

display of talent seen at holiday time is The Nutcracker, performed by the National Ballet of Canada, a cultural staple in the city for more than 60 years. This version was choreographed in 1995 by Canadian James Kudelka, best known for his blending of classical ballet and modern dance moves. The whimsical sets, fantastic creatures and a sweeping score by Tchaikovsky transport audiences into the golden palace of the Sugar Plum Fairy and the icy world of the Snow Queen. Audience members who have made this an annual outing are just as captivated as those seeing the show for the very first time. For classical music lovers, Handel’s Messiah is as much a part of the holidays as Christmas cards and presents. Top vocal soloists with the Toronto Symphony Orchestra bring this 1741 composition to life. Bonus: the ambience of Roy Thomson Hall, one of Toronto’s outstanding architectural gems, built in 1982. Its Gabriel Kney pipe organ took more than 20,000 hours of labour to install, and as its notes fill the concert hall, it’s clear that it was time well spent. On Boxing Day (Dec. 26),

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Objects of Desire When it comes to blockbuster treasures, Toronto’s museums have plenty of them. Here’s a look at some not-to-be-missed objects from four beloved cultural institutions. By Carol Perehudoff

Stanley Cup, Hockey Hall of Fame

The Stanley Cup hangs out with Mike Bolt, the Keeper of the Cup. 58 | www.SeeTorontoNow.com

If there was ever an icon of the people, this is it. The Stanley Cup is the most celebrated trophy in the sporting world. It’s also likely the most well travelled, having racked up more than 750,000 miles in the last five years alone. When it’s not on the road, the cup has a prize position in the magnificent domed Great Hall at Toronto’s Hockey Hall of Fame. There are actually three versions of the cup, and all call the Hall of Fame home. In addition to the official presentation cup, a finely crafted replica is used as a stand-in when the original is travelling. Visitors can also see the actual silver bowl donated by Canada’s Governor General, Lord Stanley of Preston, in 1892. Deemed too brittle for trips in 1970, it was retired to a cushy life in a vault off the Great Hall. As North America’s oldest trophy in the realm of professional athletics, the Stanley Cup has a lengthy and colourful history: Every summer, each member of the NHL’s winning team gets the cup for one day. It has been dogsledding, fishing, bowling and snowmobiling. It was drop-kicked onto the frozen Rideau Canal in 1905, has visited Afghanistan on a goodwill tour and raised millions for charity. As befitting such a major celebrity, the Stanley Cup gets rock-star treatment. It even has its own bodyguard, the Keeper of the Cup, who accompanies it wherever it goes. One of the lucky keepers is Mike Bolt, a chaperone for the trophy since 2000. “I still pinch myself,” he says. “I can’t believe I have this job. Just being the guy who gets to travel around with it is an honour.” As an A-list celebrity, the trophy moves in lofty circles, rubbing shoulders—or, at least, handles—with everyone from Tom Hanks to Kid Rock. “They’re in as much awe of it as anyone else,” Bolt says. “It’s a magnet. Everywhere you go, thousands of people want to see it.”

Gordo, the largest dinosaur on view in Canada.

“As befitting such a major celebrity, the Stanley Cup gets rock-star treatment.” Crafted from silver and nickel alloy, the cup is 89.54 centimetres tall and weighs 15.9 kilograms. Every year, the champions’ names are engraved on a lower band, which is eventually replaced. As for the record holders, the Montreal Canadiens have won the trophy an impressive 24 times, and Henri “The Pocket Rocket” Richard is listed 11 times. More than a trophy, the Stanley Cup is part of our heritage. Hockey is the quintessential game of Canada, and the cup represents the best the sport can be.

Gordo the Barosaurus, Royal Ontario Museum

Talk about having a skeleton in the closet. When the Royal Ontario Museum was searching for a sauropod—the classic long-necked, long-tailed dinosaur—to complete its new display, they had no idea that there was one already lurking in their midst. In fact, parts of a barosaurus (a member of the sauropod group) had been at the ROM for 45 years. Just how do you lose a 27-metre-long dinosaur? “We knew the pieces were there,” says Dr. David Evans, associate curator of vertebrate palaeontology. “We just lost the context that allowed us to put the bones together in a single skeleton.” To get the full story we need to go back to 1962. The late ROM curator, Dr. Gordon Edmund, acquired the rare

skeleton in a trade with the Carnegie Museum of Natural History, but the massive fossil proved too big to display. After Edmund retired, the dinosaur’s pieces were separated, shelved and shuffled around, and eventually no one knew where they were. Fast-forward to 2007. The ROM’s daring new expansion, the Michael Lee-Chin Crystal, was set to open, and it included the Age of Dinosaurs gallery on Level 2. Three of the four most recognizable dinosaur types were already in place: a T. Rex, a triceratops and a stegosaurus. The search for a sauropod began. On a trip to Wyoming to look at a potential skeleton, the newly hired Evans came across an article mentioning a barosaurus at the ROM, and from there, shall we say, the pieces fell into place. Nicknamed Gordo, the barosaurus is the diamond in the ROM’s crystal. It’s the largest mounted dinosaur skeleton in Canada, and the only “real fossil”-mounted barosaurus in the world. It’s a blockbuster sight. Sauropods include the largest land animals ever to stomp the earth, and when alive, Gordo weighed as much as 15 tons. Surprisingly, such a rare item doesn’t require a lot of special care. “What’s awesome about original fossils is that they’re basically rocks,” Evans explains. “They’ve been mineralized, so the bones aren’t sensitive to sunlight.” That’s good news for dino fans because Gordo can be out in full view, his whip-like tail sweeping through the air, transporting us back 150 million years to the late Jurassic period when the barosaurus roamed an area of Utah now known as Dinosaur National Monument. “We looked all over the globe for a sauropod,” Evans says, “and it led us to our own backyard.” TORONTO 2012 | 59

“The astonishing thing is that for years the oil painting languished in near obscurity.”

A detail from The Massacre of the Innocents by Peter Paul Rubens

The Massacre of the Innocents, Art Gallery of Ontario

It’s not every painting that has a room specially built for it, but The Massacre of the Innocents by Flemish master Peter Paul Rubens is no ordinary artwork. When arts patron, the late Ken Thomson, bought the baroque masterpiece in 2002 at Sotheby’s in London, it was the most expensive Old Master painting ever purchased at a British world auction. The price? A cool £49.5 million ($76.7 million US). And when Thomson donated it to the Art Gallery of Ontario, it became the star of its collection. So what makes it stand out? “It’s exceptional because of its raw power, immense sophistication and enormous ambition,” says Lloyd DeWitt, curator of European art at the Art Gallery of Ontario. Painted around 1610, it’s a dramatic and heart-wrenching scene of Herod the Great’s soldiers killing the newborn males of Bethlehem after it was prophesied that one would become King of the Jews. “It has all the passions that are so difficult for artists to show,” DeWitt says. “The brutality of the soldiers, the fierce protectiveness of the mothers and the innocence of the children.” The astonishing thing is that for years the 60 | www.SeeTorontoNow.com

oil painting languished in near obscurity after being mistakenly attributed to a minor painter while in the Prince of Liechtenstein’s collection. It was sold into private hands in 1920, nearly bombed in the Second World War and hung for decades in an Austrian monastery. It wasn’t until it was brought to Sotheby’s that it was recognized as a lost Rubens masterpiece. “We’re discovering new works all the time,” says DeWitt. “That’s one of the joys of this business.” It’s a huge responsibility for an institution to be the custodian of such a work, and the design for the stunning new expansion of the Art Gallery of Ontario paid careful consideration to the painting’s surroundings, with famed architect Frank Gehry getting personally involved. The focal point of the Thomson European Collection, the painting hangs in a dimly lit room with deep burgundy walls. Masterfully illuminated with spotlight lighting, the colour is vivid and the flesh looks incredibly real. You’d never know that barely visible anti-reflective glass, part of the microclimate vitrine, protects the painting from changes in moisture and temperature fluctuations. “Rubens was the art god of his day,” DeWitt says. “He was in demand by every emperor and king.” Today, he’s in

demand by every museum, but has found a home at the Art Gallery of Ontario.

Jewelled Mojari, Bata Shoe Museum

Photo: Kevin Gonsalves

Shoe fanatics drool over these golden slippers: the Bata Shoe Museum’s bejewelled mojari, elaborate curl-toed footwear from the early 19th century. Once owned by the Indian ruler Nizam Sikandar Jah of Hyderabad, the mojari are among the most precious pairs of shoes in the world and so sought after that they were stolen from the museum in 2006, along with two other valuable Indian artefacts. Thankfully for shoe fans the world over, the mojari stand out. They were returned to the museum after employees at a nearby photo shop recognized an image of the stolen treasure on a customer’s order and contacted the police. While the museum’s extensive collection contains some 10,000 pairs of footwear and more than 13,000 artefacts altogether, it’s easy to see why the mojari were targeted. “They’re made of precious metals,” says museum curator Elizabeth Semmelhack. “They were the only shoes made of gold in the gallery.” It may be the gold sequins and ruby, diamond and emerald embellishments that first catch the eye, but the mojari’s bling value is not why they are prized by the museum.

“Their value lies in their historical provenance,” Semmelhack says. “They were made in a royal workshop and worn by the Nizam. They can lead us to understand the splendour of the Nizam’s court.” Elaborately embroidered with gold metal thread and with a throat—the area that encircles the ankle—of jewelled cloisonné, the shoes have an Aladdinesque fairy tale quality that would make Sex and the City’s Carrie Bradshaw weep. “Whoever made them had a beautiful sense of colour and balance,” Semmelhack says. Valued at about $160,000, the mojari were acquired in 1999 from a British dealer and have been treated with kid gloves ever since. “Our first job is to protect them for future generations,” says Semmelhack. Due to their organic nature, all textiles are fragile. And it’s not the gold that makes the mojari so delicate, it’s their vivid mustard- and pumpkin-coloured insoles of silk velvet. To preserve them, the shoes are not kept on permanent display but stored in a cushioned box in a humidity-controlled storage room. When they are on view, fibre-optic lighting in the museum’s galleries helps block out damaging ultraviolet rays. And yes, security has been beefed up since the robbery. “More cameras, case alarms, the whole nine yards,” Semmelhack says. The museum doesn’t plan to lose such a one-of-a-kind treasure again.

Elizabeth Semmelhack, curator of the Bata Shoe Museum

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Green Scene

Photo: Tourism Brampton

Brampton comes alive with festivals and new attractions. By Bill Brioux

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here’s a saying among the locals: “All roads lead to Brampton.” Many commuters use the four 400-series superhighways to get to this city of over half a million people located northwest of Toronto— Canada’s eleventh-largest city. When they arrive, they discover a multicultural mosaic that’s a little bit country and a little bit rock ’n’ roll. You don’t have to look far to find the two faces of Brampton—they’re right downtown. You can see the

Lake Ontario

flowering of cultures both old and new at the just-expanded Peel Art Gallery, Museum and Archives, reopening in the spring of 2012. Partially housed in one of the city’s oldest public buildings, the Peel County Jail (built in the Confederation year of 1867), the Gallery is a place where the past and future are linked in a variety of displays. Local and national artists are featured in the new gallery spaces, one of which houses a sketchbook by Tom Thomson.

Make a splash at the Wild Water Kingdom.

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Heart Lake Conservation Area is perfect for leisurely strolls.

Turn back time at the historical Bovaird House.

The crown jewel of Brampton’s revitalized downtown is undoubtedly the Rose Theatre. Now in its sixth season, this 880-seat, multimillion-dollar facility has welcomed performers such as the Pointer Sisters, Joan Rivers and Diana Krall to its stage, as well as touring Broadway productions of shows such as The Wizard of Oz, A Chorus Line and the Mel Brooks musical Young Frankenstein. There are also local productions from homegrown performing arts groups such as the Peel Panto Players and the Brampton Festival Singers. Directly in front of the Rose Theatre is the large concourse known as Garden Square, which is well used throughout the year. During the summer months, Shakespeare in the Square brings the Bard to Brampton in live performances here, and the Square comes alive on New Year’s Eve when a stage is set up and acts 64 | www.SeeTorontoNow.com

such as Sam Roberts and 54-40 perform for the crowd.

off to the market In summer and fall, local artists display their wares at booths set up by the Brampton Arts Council. It’s all part of the experience that is the Brampton Farmers’ Market, a downtown event held Saturdays from late June through Thanksgiving. One of the biggest on-the-street events in Ontario, the Farmers’ Market offers fresh locally grown produce and baked goods. There is also a growing number of vendors who sell organically grown fruits and vegetables. And if you like great Greek food hot off the grill, this is the place to find it. Downtown is also where the annual Brampton Global Jazz and Blues Festival gets toes tapping. The second edition is scheduled for August 2012, with performances

both inside and outside the Rose Theatre, various downtown restaurants and the area’s largest shopping mall, the newly expanded Bramalea City Centre. Bobby McFerrin and Dr. John took part in the inaugural fest, with McFerrin even contributing to jazz workshops. There are jazz films as well as a taste of world cuisine, according to Brampton manager of tourism Sharon Wilcox. “It’s a fabulous weekend of jazz and jams,” she says. Besides the Farmers’ Market and the music festival, Brampton’s downtown streets are also home to several seasonal parades. The city’s annual Santa Claus Parade was one of the first in the area to be held at night. The event is believed to have inspired other municipalities to do their ho-ho-ho-ing after dark. Carabram, the annual multicultural festival with pavilions from several countries, turns 30 in 2012.

Be there as the curtain rises at the Rose Theatre.

Bagram dancing at the Rose Theatre on Brampton Day.

Photos: Tourism Brampton

The more recent Flower City Parade is an opportunity for Brampton to show off its roots, so to speak.

cultural finds Just down Main Street from the Rose Theatre is Gage Park, one of Brampton’s local treasures. Dating back to 1903, the park is distinguished by an old-fashioned bandstand gazebo in the middle surrounded by a large skating oval. In the winter, particularly during the annual New Year’s Eve festivities, the park is packed with skaters. All skate past a unique veterans’ monument carved out of a single red oak tree. It depicts local hero Bill Bettridge, a decorated veteran of the D-Day landings in Normandy, France. If the park puts you in the mood to explore Brampton’s heritage, your next stop might be Bovaird House. Open from mid-February to midDecember, the Georgian-style farm-

house is filled with 19th-century artifacts. Take a guided tour of the house and the gardens, or head downtown for the self-guided walking tour. You can obtain a booklet that will allow you to explore some of the city’s historical landmarks at your own pace, with plaques set up along the way to highlight notable spots. If walking in nature is your thing, you’ve come to the right city. The Heart Lake Conservation Area—so named for the shape of the lake— is spring-fed and part of the Etobicoke Creek watershed. It is blissfully removed from the hustle and bustle of the city, an oasis of nature and even a fisherman’s paradise, as it is stocked with hundreds of rainbow trout each year. Walking the trails along the banks and into the woods is picturesque in the fall, when the leaves are ablaze with colour. As Wilcox says, “You’d never know you

are in a city.” Canoe rentals are also available. Similar back-to-nature experiences are available in Brampton’s west end at Eldorado Park, the city’s oldest, where an amusement park once flourished and the city’s last outdoor swimming pool exists. “The beautiful Credit River runs right through Eldorado Park,” says Wilcox. An even more hidden Brampton body of water is Professor’s Lake, tucked behind a residential community just south of the new Brampton Civic Hospital. Professor’s Lake may be ringed with houses, but there is public access with a beach and boatrental area. It is a favourite stop for ducks and geese, as well as for local kids with fishing rods in hand.

ACTION-PACKED Thrill-seekers might rather visit Wild Water Kingdom, Canada’s largest water park. The 100-acre attraction features a variety of water slides, pools and lazy rivers, including a saltwater tidal-wave pool. There’s even an indoor sports complex, minigolf and a state-of-the-art drive-in movie theatre. And speaking of thrills, the Powerade Centre is home of the Brampton Battalion, the city’s Ontario Hockey League hockey team. See the NHL stars of tomorrow in action from the 5,000-seat arena, which will serve as the wrestling venue for the 2015 Pan American Games. Brampton is certainly a city to explore, one that continues to expand in size, culture and attractions. As mayor (and chief booster) Susan Fennell says, “From natural retreats, a cultural and historic downtown, popular sporting events, top-notch entertainment, quality accommodations and shopping, Brampton has everything a visitor needs.” For more on visiting Brampton, go to www.TourismBrampton.ca TORONTO 2012 | 65

Celebrate Mississauga Meet a festival city at its cultural peak. By Jennifer Lee

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the excitement our city has to offer.” The latest addition to the city’s cultural scene? Celebration Square, a reno and rejuvenation of Mississauga’s former Civic Square, which opened in summer 2011. Adjacent to City Hall and spanning 6.6 acres, Celebration Square doubles as a stateof-the-art multimedia destination, complete with an amphitheatre and an interactive water feature that transforms into the city’s largest skating rink each November. This new outdoor community centre plays host to more than 100 free public events, performances

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and activities annually, attracting 300,000 visitors.

Culture club The Square has become a cultural hub, hosting a range of live performances,

such as Canadian jazz musician and Juno Award nominee Matt Dusk, as well as popular event series such as Take 2: Culture Days on the Square. With over 70 events hosted over

Photo: Doug Brown/Tourism Toronto

anked among Canada’s fastestgrowing metropolises, Mississauga is a vibrant cultural centre. It has an exciting offering of museums, theatres and restaurants, plus a calendar packed with festivals featuring everything from live music to food tastings. It’s an exciting time for the sixth-largest city in Canada, founded 38 years ago and now home to 729,000 people. Mayor Hazel McCallion is proud of the community spirit her city is cultivating: “Mississauga’s festivals help bring the community together and provide visitors with an opportunity to experience

Celebration Square

Photos: Mississauga Tourism

“It’s an exciting time for the sixthlargest city in Canada, founded 38 years ago and now home to 729,000 people.” three days. Culture Days is a community-driven volunteer movement dedicated to encouraging visitors to get involved in the local arts scene. It’s a fall tradition, held at the end of September. Visitors can catch the Mississauga Symphony on the main stage or a live jazz show in the amphitheatre before heading to the upper and lower squares, where parents and children enjoy hands-on, kidfriendly activities. Families, meanwhile, flock to Doors Open Mississauga. Part of Culture Days, it’s an annual free event that gives the public access to heritage VisitToronto

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Port Credit Pier Port Credit Pier

Downtown Mississauga

treasures—many unsung. Join a guided tour of the central library and visit the Canadian rare book collection, and then stop by the Kids’ Zone, located in the library’s children’s department, to catch a reading. Lucky tots may bump into beloved literary characters such as the Queen of Hearts. Baby boomers should flock to Grangestock, a yearly celebration of all things from the 1960s, with the emphasis on music and flower-powered fun.

The sound of music The city’s renowned musical talents lend their Mobile App SeeToronto

skills to Opera Mississauga, the Mississauga Choral Society and the Mississauga Symphony Orchestra. Highlights include the Mississauga Choral Society’s rendition of Handel’s Messiah in November, which marks the beginning of the holiday season, and one-of-a-kind performances such as the Mississauga Symphony Orchestra’s tribute to The Beatles’ Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band album—note for note— in April 2012 at the Living Arts Centre. The popular venue also hosts the Just For Laughs Roadshow (April 15) and dance troupe Stomp (May 8–9).

The onstage talent multiplies during the warmer summer months with the arrival of music festivals such as Telus Mosaic, showcasing the many facets of south Asian culture through dance, visual arts, film, music and more. The annual Tim Hortons Southside Shuffle Blues and Jazz Festival brings together artists such as blues performers Dr. Hook, Elvin Bishop and Mavis Staples. Events with great taste The summer months also welcome festivals dedicated to gourmet flavours. The global collection of TORONTO 2012 | 67

Angler on the Credit River in Erindale Park

Mississauga Waterfront Festival

street eats tempts crowds with a host of events, from the sampling of sweet and savory staples at 26 international pavilions at the Carassauga Festival (May 25–27)—one of Ontario’s largest multicultural festivals, representing 64 countries—to tucking into mobile cuisine from Mississauga and surrounding areas offered at Food Truck Eats. Here, vendors from local restaurants roll into Celebration Square, bringing their menus directly to the people and turning the city into an epicurean playground. 68 | www.SeeTorontoNow.com

ON THE WATERFRONT For those with a taste for tranquility, Port Credit, Mississauga’s lakefront village, is a relaxing retreat. Situated on Lake Ontario, its walking and cycling trails at the Lakefront Promenade Park beckon both adventure-seekers and nature lovers to the region. Ranked as one of Ontario’s top 100 festivals for nine consecutive years, the annual Mississauga Waterfront Festival in June sees over 65,000 people travel to the city for the weekend to enjoy live performances on the main stage by Canadian stars like

Sam Roberts, Jann Arden and Chantal Kreviazuk. Kids head to the Family Fun Village for a multitude of hands-on activities, carnival rides and water shows. Aside from the city’s many heritage sites, there are events in smaller surrounding communities such as the village of Streetsville. For the last 40 years, the Streetsville Founders’ Bread & Honey Festival (a nod to the mills and apiaries in the area) has been the city’s benchmark family outing. It’s well loved for its petting zoo, musical performances, carnival rides

and the popular Bread & Honey Parade and race with competition categories for teens and adults. It’s clear why Mississauga has earned a reputation as festival central— it’s a vital hub of art, culture and community anchored by Celebration Square. As Mayor McCallion says, “The Square showcases the talent and cultural diversity that exist in our city.” That’s just one of many reasons to include the heart of Mississauga in your travel itinerary. For more on visiting Mississauga, go to www.MississaugaTourism.ca

Photos: istockphoto (fishing); Doug Brown/Tourism Toronto (festival)

“Ranked as one of Ontario’s top 100 festivals, the annual Mississauga Waterfront Festival in June sees over 65,000 people travel to the city.”

The Wonder of Niagara Up close and personal with the legends of the Falls. By Anita Draycott

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he thundering roar, the majestic arching rainbows rising from the mist, the sheer force and fury of nature as the mighty river plunges from a towering precipice into a vast abyss... Niagara Falls has been wowing tourists since the midVictorian era, when the Falls were an obligatory stop on the Grand Tour of North America. The advent of railways and steamships made it easier for folks to travel. After World War I, privately owned automobiles brought even more tourists to the impressive waters. They came then, as they do today, to marvel at two sets of cataracts: the American Falls and the even more spectacular Horseshoe Falls on the Canadian side of the border.

Wonders never cease, and one of Ontario’s most famous tourist attraction never ceases to be a magnet for romantics and adventurers. In 1859, tightrope walker JeanFrancois Gravelet, known as the Great Blondin, not only walked across the Falls, he also stopped to take a swig from a bottle hoisted up from the Maid of the Mist below. In later performances, the audacious showman rode a bicycle, pushed a wheelbarrow and fried an omelette while balancing on the rope. As a publicity stunt in 1901, a schoolteacher in her sixties named Annie Edson Taylor was the first person to plummet over the Horseshoe Falls in a wooden barrel padded inside with a mattress. Remarkably, she survived. Other daredevils did not, and such antics are now against the law. In Steele’s Book of Niagara Falls, published in 1840, the author Oliver G. Steele writes, “No person should come to Niagara for the first time, and leave the same day; it is utterly impossible for one to conceive or realize its grandeur or beauty in such a visit.” TORONTO 2012 | 69

On board the Maid of the Mist

So heed Mr. Steele’s advice and take time to savour this world wonder. Every year Niagara Falls builds on its iconic history by offering more enticing attractions, accommodations and ways to experience these remarkable waters and environments.

GO WITH THE FLOW There are plenty of ways to “do” Niagara Falls. The oldest is to don a blue slicker and board the Maid of the Mist. The company has been traversing the Niagara River since 1846. For a multisensory thrill, try the new Niagara’s Fury: The Creation of the Falls. Feel the full wrath of Mother Nature as you stand on a platform that tilts and shakes while the temperature dips. You experience 10,000 years 70 | www.SeeTorontoNow.com

Wine barrels ready to tap

in about 15 minutes of sensory overload. If you prefer to stay dry, take a flight via Niagara Helicopters. Or try out the Niagara SkyWheel: On this gigantic Ferris wheel in the Clifton Hill area, the glass pods are air-conditioned in summer and heated in winter. Every evening, the Falls are illuminated and there’s a seasonal razzle-dazzle fireworks extravaganza. The best place to enjoy them is with cocktail in hand from the R5 Lounge in the Fallsview Casino Resort.

RELIVE HISTORY During the War of 1812, the Niagara region was the scene of multiple American invasions and battles. To commemorate the bicentenary of that historic event, a new Niagara Falls History Museum will open

in July with a permanent 1812 exhibit. Battle enactments, military balls and parades will also be part of the 2012 festivities.

ROMANCE THE FALLS Niagara Falls earned its reputation as the Honeymoon Capital of the World when the daughter of Aaron Burr, the third vice-president of the United States, chose to honeymoon here in 1801. John Lennon and Yoko Ono celebrated their honeymoon at Niagara Falls, and Superman (Christopher Reeve) wooed Lois Lane (Margot Kidder) at the cataracts. Romance is alive and well at the Sterling Inn & Spa, billing itself as Niagara Falls’ only boutique hotel, where all guests are served a complimentary breakfast in bed.

Biking is a great way to tour Niagara-on-the-Lake.

Photos: Steve Xu (Falls); Tourism Ontario (barrels); Jeff Speed (bike); Tourism Niagara (golf); Tourism Toronto (vineyard)

Hit the links surrounded by the beauty of Niagara.

GO DOWNTOWN The recently gentrified Queen Street neighbourhood, dotted with boutiques and cafés, is a terrific place for a wander. If you’re in the mood for a savory or sweet treat, head to Paris Crêpes Bistro. The eatery also houses La Boutique, where you can pick up freshly baked baguettes and goodies for a picnic. GET PHYSICAL Join Zoom Tours for their Pub Lunch and Winery cycling adventure. Mount your bike at the Best Western Fallsview Hotel and pedal along the Niagara Parkway, stopping at the Floral Clock and Horticultural Gardens. Sir Winston Churchill referred to the Niagara Parkway as “the prettiest Sunday afternoon drive in the world.” Sample the goods

at a few wineries before heading to what the 1996 Communities in Bloom awarded the prettiest town in Canada, Niagara-onthe-Lake. From there, you can take a shuttle back to Niagara Falls.

PEEL ME A GRAPE For more vino immersion, book a Divine Red Wine Wrap at the Shaw Club Hotel & Spa in Niagaraon-the-Lake. Your indulgence begins with a grape exfoliating scrub, followed by a warmed wine-hydrating mask. While your grape wrap is working its wonders, your therapist gives you a gentle scalp massage, and then finishes by applying a hydrating cabernet body balm. TAKE A SWING If a leisurely nine fits your schedule, start your swing

where it all began back in 1875 when the Niagaraon-the-Lake Golf Club opened. Acknowledged as the oldest golf course in North America—where the game is still played on the original site—this stately tract meanders along the shores of Lake Ontario and around historic Fort Mississauga. The two newest kids on the block are the Grand Niagara Club and Thundering Waters. The former is a classic parkland gem by architect Rees Jones—a mix of beauty, intrigue, subtleties and lots of risk. Thundering Waters, John Daly’s first signature course in Canada, is located a mere 1,400 metres from the Horseshoe Falls. Daly kicked off the opening ceremonies by trying, unsuccessfully, to smack a ball across the Niagara Gorge from Canada to the U.S. You might expect a Daly course to be a long grip-it-and-rip-it sort of adventure, but this par-72, measuring just 6,000 metres from the championship Daly tees, is more of a riskand-reward layout requiring accurate aim. Like big bad John himself, there’s never a dull moment. For more on visiting Niagara, go to www.NiagaraParks.com

Wine & Dine Niagara’s food and wine scene now rivals the Falls in popularity. The region boasts more than 50 wineries. Most offer informative tours, and many have excellent dining options. Epicureans also love to gather around the commodious table in chef Mark Picone’s Culinary Studio in Vineland. Chef Picone orchestrates multi-course lunches and dinners using seasonal ingredients, locally sourced. Reservations are by appointment. Dining at a winery is a sublime experience in Niagara. Rows of neatly planted grapes provide a pretty background for meals where the wine is front and centre. Chef Frank Dodd at the Hillebrand Winery restaurant uses local ingredients grown in the same soil as the grapes in dishes that let true flavours shine with every bite. At Strewn, foodies can take a hands-on approach and take a cooking class or let the chef do the work at its Terroir La Cachette.

TORONTO 2012 | 71

Sugar Beach

Eau, What a Feeling Water play makes a splash with action-packed pursuits at the cityâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s doorstep. By Kate Pocock

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alk about picturesque: Toronto is located smackdab on the shores of Lake Ontario. Add a system of urban rivers flowing freely southward—the Humber and the Credit, the Rouge and the Don—and the result is a 46-kilometre shoreline that pulses with wave action and scenic beauty for residents and visitors alike. Visitors appreciate the lakeside geological wonders, such as the Scarborough Cathedral Bluffs and the headwaters of the Niagara Escarpment, which flow into the mouth of the Credit River (teeming once again with both salmon and fishing enthusiasts). But it’s the range of activities and array of exciting experiences—many within minutes of the downtown core—that attract people to Toronto’s waterfront. Bike along the shore or cruise to the Toronto Islands in all manner of watercraft—from historic tall ships to mango-coloured kayaks. Swim in the lake, ride the wind on a kiteboard, appreciate the music of Yo-Yo Ma playing through the supplied headphones in the Music Garden. Spot a sandpiper in Tommy Thompson Park, dance to swing music or simply sit under a pink umbrella, feet buried in sugary sand, and listen to the lapping of the waves as hundreds of species of birds fly by. The wealth of opportunities is a revelation to visitors and even some resident Torontonians.

ARTY GEMS The beauty and fun available waterside is continuously evolving. City planners, landscape architects, nature lovers and three levels of government work to revitalize the lakefront. Most dramatic is Waterfront Toronto’s award-winning New Blue Edge project, which boasts a billion-dollar budget. The goal? To create an uninterrupted water’s-edge pathway with unique parks and public spaces. The project is well under way, and there’s already buzz about it. People love the new multi-purpose design features, such as Sherbourne Common’s “Light Showers” art

Photos: Doug Brown/Tourism Toronto

Harbour Erindale Park, bridge overToronto the Credit River

“Visitors can’t believe that we have salmon at the doorstep of Canada’s financial capital.” A bridge spans the Credit River in Erindale Park

sculpture towers: They release ecologically filtered water while light “flows” in glowing colours, turning them into moving art pieces. Then there are the curvy Wave Deck sidewalks at Harbourfront Centre. “People love the Wave Decks,” says Bill Boyle, the Centre’s former chief executive officer. “People are even taking wedding photos there! It’s something we never expected.” One of the most popular tourist attractions in Canada, Harbourfront Centre annually draws about 12 million people who can choose from more than 4,000 events, many of them free. Visitors might encounter rap music from the Arctic, photographic exhibits by Canadian First Nations artists or art from China’s ethnic minorities.

THE REEL THING And what about fish? Thanks to a restoration program created by the Ontario Ministry of Natural Resources, the Ontario Federation of Anglers and Hunters and more than 40 other partners, Lake Ontario is now filled with Coho, Atlantic and Chinook salmon, trout and more. Budding fishermen can charter a boat at the Port Credit Harbour Marina from any of the several licensed charter boat companies and head out with rod and reel. On a busy summer weekend, thousands of men, women and kids cast lures to win prizes during the seven-week Great Ontario Salmon Derby, the world’s largest freshwater fishing contest (part of the Toronto Sportsmen’s Show). Each year, the lake is stocked with 520,000 Chinook Fry, so your chances of landing a good catch are high. And it may be a whopper. The top 70 fish caught in recent years have weighed more than 13 kilograms. Get close to where the action is with companies like Salmon Strike Sportfishing Charters. The salmon are thriving again with their successful return to the Credit River. It’s a perfect time to get TORONTO 2012 | 73

Simcoe Wave Deck at Harbourfront

Riding the waves When summer hits, the waterfront becomes a sea of sails and paddles. Rent a sailboat or powerboat, try stand-up paddleboarding or rent a canoe. If you’re a novice, take a lesson, opt for a tandem (double) kayak or join a Paddle & BBQ kayak evening, which provides food, fellow paddlers and a nighttime view of the city skyline. “It’s a perfect little mini vacation,” says Dave Corrigan, owner of the Harbourfront Canoe & Kayak Centre. If you’d like someone else to “row your boat,” any number of vessels cruise the harbour. Hoist the sails on the Kajama tall ship, splash into Lake Ontario on the Hippo (a bus that floats) or board a historic Toronto Island ferry to explore any of the 13 islands on Toronto’s doorstep, where you can rent a bike, hike the boardwalk or hit the beach. For a floating dining adventure, sign up for a cruise on one of Mariposa Cruises’s nautical beauties. Trips run the gamut from one-hour harbour tours to themed events such as a 1950s-style Rock ’n’ Roll dinner cruise. “It’s an evening out, dinner, dancing, being out on the water and enjoying the skyline,” says Jana Ray, director of sales and marketing at Mariposa Cruises. Life’s a beach With eight city beaches now earning a Blue Flag designation (an international standard recognizing eco friendship and cleanliness), beach bums can frolic in the waves 74 | www.SeeTorontoNow.com

as well as picnic on the sand. Choose from Centre Island (great for kids), Gibraltar Point (with a reportedly haunted lighthouse), Ward’s Island (uncrowded), Cherry Beach (windy enough for kiteboarding), Hanlan’s Point (clothing optional), the Beaches’ Woodbine Beach (complete with volleyball action), Kew Balmy Beach (the start of the 56-kilometre Martin Goodman cycling trail) and Bluffer’s Park Beach, located beneath the Scarborough Cathedral Bluffs (for wildlife ops and a scenic nature trail). If you prefer swimming in something man-made, dip into the Donald D. Summerville Olympic Pool at Woodbine Park and watch skilled divers show off as they plunge from the tower. Splash in the spacious heated rooftop pool at the Radisson Hotel Admiral (Harbourfront Centre) or join Jersey Shore look-alikes at Polson Pier pool on the largest outdoor patio in North America. Prefer privacy? Head to the sandy shore beneath the art-deco-style R.C. Harris Water Treatment Plant in the Beaches. Or if you want old-fashioned Muskoka-chair comfort visit the new Canada’s Sugar Beach beside a promenade adorned with trees and embellished by a huge striped granite boulder and water music from a splashpad fountain. Pure beachy fun in the heart of the city.

Chilling on the beach

Photos: Doug Brown/Tourism Toronto

hooked on urban fishing at its finest. “Visitors can’t believe that we have salmon at the doorstep of Canada’s financial capital,” says Walter Oster, the Derby’s chairman. “You can leave your Bay Street office and, within an hour, be in a boat, ready to drop your line into the water to fish.” As an added perk, all of the Salmon Derby proceeds go back into conservation efforts.

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Take to the streets to explore the best

of Toronto, from historic landmarks to haute hot spots and everything in between. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ve mapped out five insider tours that allow you to experience every inch of this exciting, eclectic city. Let the block parties begin!

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ELECTRIC AVENUES

Busy from dawn to dusk, the downtown core sizzles with energy. Stroll, shop, catch a concert or sit back and enjoy the unparalleled people-watching. Nathan Phillips Square

Photos: Tourism Toronto; all illustrations in this story by Lisa Smith

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1 23 4 5 6 7

1 / TORONTO EATON CENTRE This lively shopping destination stretches two full city blocks and houses more than 230 retailers. 220 Yonge St., torontoeatoncentre.com 2 / YONGE-DUNDAS SQUARE Framed by giant screens, the corner of Yonge and Dundas is both a bustling public space and home to unique concerts and festivals throughout the year. Southeast corner of Yonge and Dundas streets, Ydsquare.ca 3 / T.O. TIX Last-minute craving for live theatre? This ticket booth offers discounted tickets for same-day shows or full-price advance tickets. Corner of Yonge and Dundas streets, totix.ca 4 / ED MIRVISH THEATRE Founded in 1920, the theatre was originally a combination vaudeville house and motion picture theatre before becoming one of Canada’s most vital theatrical hubs. 244 Victoria St., mirvish.com 5 / MASSEY HALL Audiences rave about the acoustics in this circa-1894 music hall, which welcomes the world’s most exciting musical acts. 178 Victoria St., masseyhall.com 6 / ELGIN AND WINTER GARDEN THEATRE CENTRE Magnificently restored, the world’s last-remaining operating double-decker theatre boasts an eclectic lineup, featuring everything from family musicals to rock concerts. 189 Yonge St., heritagetrust.on.ca/ewg 7 / THE BAY Canada’s oldest department store, The Bay has undergone a modern facelift, including a revamped high-end shopping mecca called The Room, which attracts discerning fashionistas. 176 Yonge St., hbc.com 8 / NATHAN PHILLIPS SQUARE Named for a former mayor of Toronto, this public space is a favourite spot for strolling, sitting and people-watching. In the winter, rent skates and glide along the central ice rink. 100 Queen St. W., Toronto.ca 9 / TORONTO CITY HALL With its distinctive curving architecture, City Hall is both the hub for local government and a beloved landmark. 100 Queen St. W., Toronto.ca 10 / FOUR SEASONS CENTRE FOR THE PERFORMING ARTS Sleek and sexy, minimalist yet warm, this architectural marvel features a theatre built specifically for opera and ballet. It’s home to the Canadian Opera Company and is the performance venue of The National Ballet of Canada. 145 Queen St. W., coc.ca

Toronto Eaton Centre

TORONTO 2012 | 77

Gooderham Flatiron Building

HERITAGE

Bring your camera to capture the beauty of Toronto’s historic district. Though boutiques, restaurants and galleries are housed in charming heritage buildings, they are as modern as it gets. 1 / UNION STATION “You build your stations like we build our cathedrals,” Edward, Prince of Wales, said in an address during the 1927 opening of Union Station, still Canada’s most glamorous transportation hub. Front and Bay streets, Toronto.ca/union_station 2 / HOCKEY HALL OF FAME Housed in a former bank building, this museum boasts the world’s largest collection of hockey memorabilia. 30 Yonge St., hhof.com 3 / SONY CENTRE FOR THE PERFORMING ARTS Featuring A-list entertainment from around the world, Canada’s largest soft-seat theatre also offers culinary creations by executive chef Stephen Lee, formerly with the 2010 Vancouver Olympic Village. 1 Front St. E., sonycentre.ca 4 / GOODERHAM FLATIRON BUILDING This iconic building—one of the most photographed in the city—houses a friendly pub and fronts charming Berczy Park. 49 Wellington St. E. 5 / ST. LAWRENCE MARKET A must-visit for all foodies, this award-winning market offers everything from fresh seafood to exotic cheeses to piping hot loaves. The peameal bacon sandwich is legendary. 92 Front St. E., stlawrencemarket.com 6 / THE DISTILLERY DISTRICT Go back in time in this lovely cobblestone village, a former whisky distillery and now home to luxe shops, galleries and restaurants. 55 Mill St., thedistillerydistrict.com 7 / YOUNG CENTRE FOR THE PERFORMING ARTS One of Toronto’s leading cutting-edge theatres, the Young Centre features productions by Soulpepper Theatre Company and George Brown College’s Theatre School. 55 Mill St., Bldg. 49, youngcentre.ca

St. Lawrence Market

Front Street

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Union Station

MUSEUMS & GALLERIES

Toronto’s cultural landscape is vast—spanning Old Masters, dinosaur bones and cutting-edge exhibitions—but the city’s museum and gallery district keeps all the action within walking distance.

Photos: Tom Arban/Tourism Toronto (Gardiner Museum); Doug Brown/Tourism Toronto (AGO)

Gardiner Museum

1 / BATA SHOE MUSEUM You don’t have to be a dedicated follower of fashion to admire the 10,000 shoes on display in this unique museum. 27 Bloor St. W., batashoemuseum.ca 2 / ROYAL CONSERVATORY OF MUSIC More than a first-rate arts and education facility, the Conservatory is home to Koerner Hall, one of the most beautiful concert halls in Canada. 273 Bloor St. W., rcmusic.ca 3 / ROYAL ONTARIO MUSEUM (ROM) Follow the avant-garde crystal that juts out onto Bloor Street to discover one of Canada’s best-loved museums. 100 Queen’s Park, rom. on.ca 4 / GARDINER MUSEUM Housed in an acclaimed modernist building, this boutique museum explores the history, significance and style of ceramics with a 3,000-plus-piece collection. 111 Queen’s Park, gardinermuseum.on.ca 5 /QUEEN’S PARK Home to the provincial legislative building, this urban park was named for Queen Victoria and also boasts modern appeal. Each fall, the park hosts Word on the Street, Toronto’s popular book and magazine festival. University Ave., ontla.on.ca 6 / KENSINGTON MARKET This bohemian enclave features an exciting array of bakeries, cafés, cheese shops and organic butchers. Streets are pedestrian-friendly on the last Sunday of the month between May and October. Kensingtonmarket.ca 7 / CHINATOWN Toronto’s largest Chinatown is home to affordable groceries, souvenirs, home decor shops and authentic restaurants, many of which stay open well past last call. Dundas and Spadina streets. 8 / ART GALLERY OF ONTARIO (AGO). Toronto-born architect Frank Gehry recently revamped the AGO, adding a stunning glass corridor and an avant-garde winding staircase. The gallery’s 4,000-plus pieces include canvases by the Group of Seven and more recent work by up-and-comer Shary Boyle. 317 Dundas St. W., ago.net 9 / OCAD UNIVERSITY If students at this art and design college want inspiration, all they need to do is look up: The playful rectangular building housing the Sharp Centre for Design sits 26 metres above street level atop colourful pegs. 100 McCaul St., ocad.ca 10/ TEXTILE MUSEUM OF CANADA. Attracting fashion fans and history buffs alike, this museum features more than 12,000 pieces, including garments and unique fabrics. 55 Centre Ave., textilemuseum.ca

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Bata Shoe Museum

Art Gallery of Ontario

TORONTO 2012 | 79

ENTERTAINMENT

In Toronto’s cosmopolitan nightlife core, you can pick your pleasure: sports, ballet, theatre, symphony, comedy or late-night clubbing. a repair facility for Canadian Pacific Rail steam locomotives, is now the site of one of Toronto’s top breweries, known for its smooth, crisp Pilsner.

2 3 4 1

255 Bremner Blvd., steamwhistle.ca; trha.ca

10 / AIR CANADA CENTRE This award-winning sports and concert venue is home to the Toronto Maple Leafs, Toronto Raptors and Toronto Rock Lacrosse. The newly expanded Maple Leaf Square features a giant screen and the Real Sports Bar & Grill, a sports fan’s dream, with 199 HD TVs.

50 Bay St., theaircanadacentre.com

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1 / SECOND CITY Featuring improv-based sketch comedy, this venue boasts a vibrant theatre troupe, which has included Canadian comedy greats such as Eugene Levy and John Candy. 51 Mercer St., secondcity.com 2 / TIFF BELL LIGHTBOX The headquarters of the annual Toronto International Film Festival, the Lightbox also hosts year-round screenings and film-focused exhibitions. 350 King St. W., belllightbox.ca 3 /PRINCESS OF WALES THEATRE Featuring original murals by acclaimed artist Frank Stella, this spectacular 2,000-seat theatre hosts blockbuster productions such as The Sound of Music and War Horse. 300 King St. W., mirvish.com 4 / ROYAL ALEXANDRA THEATRE Known as The Royal Alex, this beaux-arts stunner opened in 1907 and has been an integral part of Toronto’s theatre scene ever since. 260 King St. W., mirvish.com 5 / ROY THOMSON HALL Home of the renowned Toronto Symphony Orchestra, this concert hall also hosts gala screenings during the Toronto International Film Festival. 60 Simcoe St., roythomson.com 6 / CANADIAN BROADCASTING CENTRE AND CBC MUSEUM Dedicated to producing top-notch TV and radio programming in both official languages, the nation’s broadcaster is housed in a unique 12-storey facility. 250 Front St. W., cbc.ca/facilities 7 / ROGERS CENTRE Famous for its fully retractable roof, the Rogers Centre is home to the Toronto Blue Jays baseball club and the Toronto Argonauts football team. 1 Blue Jays Way, rogerscentre.com 8 / CN TOWER. This Toronto landmark features three observation levels, a glass floor, the acclaimed 360 Restaurant, and the brand-new EdgeWalk, the world’s highest hands-free full-circle walk, 116 storeys in the air. 301 Front St. W., cntower.ca 9 / STEAM WHISTLE BREWING/JOHN ST. ROUNDHOUSE. This historic roundhouse, once

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TIFF Bell Lightbox

7 4 65

8 2

Lorem ipsum On the waterfront

WATERFRONT

Photos: Doug Brown/Tourism Toronto (Royal Alex, waterfront, skyline); Sam Santos/WireImage for TIFF (Lightbox)

Explore the beauty of Lake Ontario’s sparkling waters. Enjoy urban beaches with soft, sugary sand and galleries, gardens and hip boutiques connected by boardwalks and bike trails.

1 / EXHIBITION PLACE Catch a Toronto FC soccer game at BMO Field, cheer on your knight at Medieval Times or meander by the Direct Energy Centre and Allstream Centre. Each August, Exhibition Place welcomes the Canadian National Exhibition, with rides, games and delicious food kiosks. explace.on.ca 2 / ONTARIO PLACE Extending through three man-made islands, this parkland offers cultural, leisure and entertainment activities, and is also the site of the famed Molson Canadian Amphitheatre. 955 Lakeshore Blvd. W., ontarioplace.com 3 / TORONTO MUSIC GARDEN Designed by acclaimed cellist Yo-Yo Ma and landscape designer Julie Moir Messervy, this lovely waterfront garden hosts an eclectic array of concerts and is open year-round. 475 Queen’s Quay W., harbourfrontcentre.com 4 / HTO PARK Escape for an afternoon snooze under a cheery yellow beach umbrella on this man-made urban beach, which also features grassy knolls and a waterfront promenade. 339 Queen’s Quay W. (Queen’s Quay and Rees St.), waterfrontbia.com 5 / HARBOURFRONT CENTRE & YORK QUAY CENTRE A year-round cultural hub, Harbourfront offers cutting-edge visual art, a diverse range of free festivals every weekend in the summer and, each October, the International Festival of Authors. 235 Queen’s Quay W., harbourfrontcentre.com 6 / THE POWER PLANT CONTEMPORARY ART GALLERY Housed in a repurposed 1920s powerhouse (complete with iconic smokestack), Canada’s leading contemporary art gallery offers groundbreaking exhibitions, talks and events. 231 Queen’s Quay W., thepowerplant.org 7 / QUEEN’S QUAY TERMINAL Overlooking Lake Ontario, this eclectic shopping centre features premium boutiques and restaurants and is home to the Museum of Inuit Art, the only museum of its kind in southern Canada. 207 Queen’s

Toronto’s skyline glitters with light.

Quay W., qqterminal.com 8 / TORONTO ISLANDS A 10-minute ferry ride brings you to the Toronto Islands, which include Ward’s Island and Centre Island, home of the popular Centreville Amusement Park. Toronto.ca/ parks/island 9 / REDPATH SUGAR MUSEUM Take a tour of this operating sugar port and refinery on the shores of Lake Ontario, sure to leave a sweet aftertaste. 95 Queen’s Quay E., redpathsugars.com 10 / SUGAR BEACH Once a parking lot, Toronto’s newest man-made beach is now a true summer destination, with a maple tree-lined promenade, sugary sand and vibrant pink beach umbrellas. At the foot of Lower Jarvis St., waterfronttoronto.ca

TORONTO 2012 | 81

Neighbourhoods The Distillery District charms with cobblestones and historic buildings, but its thrills—gallery hopping, fine dining, theatre-going—are thoroughly modern.

The Neighbourhoods of Greater Toronto Yorkville, the city's top spot for haute shopping finds

Where the city comes alive. Toronto’s neighbourhoods are the heart of the city. They pulse with life, and each has a personality all its own. A visit isn’t complete without exploring this matrix of culturally diverse regions that make Toronto the vibrant, eclectic destination that it is. From century-old enclaves to the newest and emergent, there is always something fresh to discover just around the corner.

bloor-yorkville.com

This well-loved shopping area has grown up and flourished since its days as a hippie hangout in the 1960s. Today, Bloor-Yorkville is home to Toronto’s “Mink Mile” featuring top international names like Tiffany, Gucci, Cartier and Prada alongside the best of Canada at Holt Renfrew, Harry Rosen and Roots. Yorkville’s bustling streets and cobbled lanes house designer boutiques, luxury hotels, galleries and fine dining, all surrounding one of the city’s top gathering spots at Village of Yorkville Park. 82 | www.SeeTorontoNow.com

The Entertainment District torontoed.com

By night especially, this downtown hub packs in plenty of the city’s hippest restaurants, theatres, bars and nightclubs. During the day, it’s just as lively with popular attractions such as the CN Tower, Rogers Centre and the new TIFF Bell Lightbox, home to the Toronto International Film Festival. As you stroll, look beneath your feet to see the who’s who of entertainment immortalized with a star in the sidewalk that makes up Canada’s Walk of Fame.

Photos: Tourism Toronto

Bloor-Yorkville

Neighbourhoods HEART OF THE CITY

Downtown Yonge downtownyonge.com

There’s plenty of fun to be had in the Yonge and Dundas area. It’s a prime spot for peoplewatching, catching a movie, dining and, of course, shopping at the landmark Toronto Eaton Centre, one of the most visited attractions in the city. Across the street, Yonge-Dundas Square serves as a dynamic venue for concerts, events, community celebrations and cappuccino sipping, too. On balmy days, it’s a blast to watch kids run through the numerous fountains dotted throughout the square.

The Waterfront waterfrontbia.com

In a city perched on Lake Ontario, it’s not surprising that so much happens along the water’s edge. There are festivals aplenty (celebrating everything from local authors to spicy food) at the Harbourfront Centre, and

a thriving art scene, thanks to contemporary art venues such as The Power Plant. Catch a ferry to the Toronto Islands nearby, or stick to the mainland where you can relax at HTO Park or the Toronto Music Garden (designed by Yo-Yo Ma), or dip your toes in the sand at Sugar Beach (complete with lounge chairs and pink umbrellas).

Old Town Toronto oldtowntoronto.ca

The city began in this neighbourhood, once home to the first parliament and ports. Nibble your way through St. Lawrence Market, often rated as one of the top markets in the world. Or browse through the north market on a Sunday in search of an antique treasure. The wellpreserved Victorian architecture serves as a great background for vacation photos. Sit and watch the black squirrels scurrying around St. James Park, once

Festive flair at the Gerrard India Bazaar

you’ve had your fill of shopping, theatres, galleries and restaurants in the area.

Queen West westqueenwest.ca; queenstwestbia.ca

Welcome to funky town and the centre of all things cool and trendsetting. Somehow, the mix of textile stores, tattoo parlors, chic boutiques, loft spaces, vintage stores and bars is a harmonious one, creating a real neighbourhood where people actually live and play. A new crop of chic watering holes, spas and indie fashion outlets stocking mostly Canadian designers are the latest additions to this wildly eclectic downtown hub.

Kensington Market kensington-market.ca

The world comes together here. Often ranked as one of the best street markets in North America, this dense cultural labyrinth of narrow streets houses a mix of Caribbean, Latin American, European and Middle Eastern shops and restaurants. Peppered within are secondhand/vintage clothing stores, fishmongers, street musicians and cafés. This is the place to pick up everything from your favourite bands from the ’70s on vinyl to exotic produce and artisan cheese.

Photos: Tourism Toronto (bazaar); Doug Brown/Tourism Toronto (market)

Kensington Market, the perfect spot for people-watching and vintage hunting

Church-Wellesley/ The Gay Village churchwellesleyvillage.ca

Within the downtown core, this neighbourhood is the gathering place for the city’s LGBT community (Canada’s largest), but everyone is always welcome to visit its lively offerings of restaurants, shops, coffee hangouts and clubs. Every summer, it’s also action central with the arrival of Pride Week celebrations, a popular citywide event that is capped by the highly attended Pride Parade.

Chinatown chinatownbia.com

The crowds come to this bustling area for its authentic Asian spirit, found at the eateries, malls, markets and street vendors around Spadina and Dundas. Souvenir shopping is an adventure here, with imported goods from China, Japan, Thailand, Vietnam and beyond. Take a place in one of the traditional Asian restaurants dishing out plates of fine (and budget-friendly) food. Find the flavours of Szechwan, Hunan, Mandarin, Cantonese and Vietnamese cuisines here, from bubble tea to pho (soup).

Financial District & PATH/The Underground City toronto.ca/path

Look up, look way up, to view the monolithic skyscrapers of glass and steel that rule this neighbourhood. Beneath, an underground city awaits with 28 kilometres of interconnecting passageways known as the PATH (the world’s most extensive underground network). It links 50 office towers, more than 1,200 stores, many of the city’s top restaurants, hotels and visitor attractions, and five subway stations, including Union Station train/ bus terminal.

The Annex & Mirvish Village bloorannexbia.com; mirvishvillagebia.com

Surrounding the University of Toronto, bohemia rules in this student-populated and ethnically diverse neighbourhood. The landmark Honest Ed’s bargain department store TORONTO 2012 | 83

Neighbourhoods HEART OF THE CITY

Crowds enjoy the Taste of the Danforth festival in lively Greektown.

The Danforth/ Greektown thedanforth.ca

A walk along Danforth Avenue reveals Toronto’s rich Greek heritage, with traditional Greek grocers and restaurants. These mix seamlessly with trendy nightclubs and cafés that stay open late into the night. Streetfront patios provide a perfect window onto the bustling scene. Linger longer and stay for dinner, too, so you can sample grilled souvlaki, saganaki (flaming cheese) and honeysoaked baklava.

at the corner of Bathurst and Bloor sets the tone, while budget-friendly restaurants, bookstores, quaint cafés and iconic bars keep this spot casual and full of a youthful spirit that is entertaining no matter what your age is.

Little Italy littleitaly.sites.toronto.com

Italian heritage runs deep, with family-owned-and-operated restaurants, gelaterias, bakeries and grocers lining the streets of this lively neighbourhood that is home to an ethnically diverse mix of residents. But everyone loves this area of the city. The food attracts many; authentic dishes taste like they were made

by the Italian grandmother you always wish you had. A lively range of nightspots completes the picture.

Corso Italia torontocorsoitalia.com

Centred around St. Clair and Dufferin, this neighbourhood also shows off its Italian roots with stores that feature the best of Italian fashion, produce and restaurants. The best espresso this side of Rome and cannolis worth blowing any diet for make this a must-visit area. La dolce vita reaches a crescendo during the Corso Italia Festival each summer, when eat, drink and be merry is the prevailing theme.

Nightlife excitement on downtown Yonge Street

The Beaches

Cabbagetown oldcabbagetown.com

A recent revamp has turned this former working-class neighbourhood (one of the city’s oldest and most established) into a true gathering place, thanks to a plethora of galleries, cafés and cozy restaurants. In the heart of Cabbagetown lies Riverdale Farm, complete with chickens, ducks, goats, cows and pigs—the perfect site for vacationing families who like a bit of country charm thrown in with the urban hum.

Gerrard India Bazaar gerrardindiabazaar.com

beachesbia.com

Home to the largest South Asian marketplace in North America, the Gerrard India Bazaar (Little India) is where Toronto’s Indian, Pakistani, Sri Lankan and Bangladeshi communities congregate. Browse for unique souvenirs among the traditional Indian greengrocers and sari and gift shops. When your shopping bags are filled, relax over wickedly good Indian cuisine that boasts authentic flavours and cooking techniques.

Liberty Village

Bloor West Village & High Park

Enjoy the relaxed pace and eclectic bohemian feel found among the bakeries, candy stores and quirky shops that line Queen Street East. Head toward the lake and pass lovingly tended cottage-style homes before roaming along the boardwalk that gives visitors unencumbered views of Lake Ontario. Local sunbathers and swimmers gather here to celebrate summer in the city.

lvbia.com

Once dotcom central, Liberty Village has parlayed its techcred into a growing residential community, with former factories from the industrial era being turned into trendy lofts. The revitalized Liberty Market Building is quickly becoming a local landmark, home to a growing mix of hangouts. An emerging art scene and modern eateries make this an area that’s equally welcoming to visitors and local residents.

bloorwestvillage.ca

Here, in the city’s greenest neighbourhood, you can delight in Eastern European pastries, coffee and culture. Expansive High Park attracts runners, walkers and people-watchers. Take your time and explore its manicured gardens, zoo, swimming pool, restaurants and vegetable gardens—a welcome oasis of calm. Check for events such as Shakespeare in the Park, an annual summer tradition.

Photos: Doug Brown/Tourism Toronto

Admiring the view from the waterfront Beaches neighbourhood

84 | www.SeeTorontoNow.com

Neighbourhoods MORE TO EXPLORE

Petal power at Brampton's Flower City Parade

MORE TO EXPLORE Vibrant, lively, historic—all adjectives that describe both Toronto’s downtown core and the array of boutique villages and unique neighbourhoods that surround it. Name your experience and you can have it here: visit award-winning wineries, hit the links at an outstanding course, stroll through quaint cobblestone streets or browse chic shops and antique stores.

Woodbine & Airport Area SeeTorontoNow.com

Standard arrivals and departures? Hardly. In this eclectic area, you can stay in a luxe hotel, sample innovative cuisine in sophisticated restaurants or shop at the Woodbine Shopping Centre, where little ones flock to an indoor Fantasy Fair featuring pint-size rides. Adults can cheer on their favourite horses from the stands or clubhouse at Woodbine Racetrack. The venue attracts some of the top racehorses in North America.

Albion Islington Square

Photos: Tourism Toronto

Albionislingtonsquare.com

This vibrant shopping district is a destination for shoppers looking for a bit of sparkle. It boasts Toronto’s highest concentration of jewellers specializing in gold and diamond designer jewellery. Art is another of its main attractions. Murals depicting scenes of the area’s history decorate the side of buildings along Dundas Street West, creating an impressive outdoor gallery.

Port Credit Portcredit.com

Known as Mississauga’s "village on the lake," Port Credit is situated

at the mouth of the Credit River along the shores of Lake Ontario—making it one of the most picturesque areas in the province. It recently celebrated its 175th birthday. Its beginnings as a harbour town (receiving mainly grain and lumber) are still very much part of the present. Hikes along the 15-kilometre section of the Waterfront Trail show off the natural beauty of the area. Outdoorsy types can go fishing, now that the salmon stock is flourishing in the Credit River. Meanwhile, explore the Farmers’ Market (Saturdays from June to October) or browse through boutiques, well stocked with jewellery, crafts and fashions from local artisans.

ethnic population, which boasts a strong East Indian community, means that restaurants offering authentic cuisine are abundant and well worth visiting.

beginning with five mills established in its early days. The annual Bread & Honey Festival pays homage to those roots.

Mississauga City Centre

Unionville

Mississauga.ca

Unionvilleinfo.com

In Mississauga, Canada’s sixth most populous city, cultural adventures await. The recently renovated Celebration Square is its cultural hub, home to more than 100 free public events, festivals and performances every year. You can also skate on the Square’s ice rink, visit the state-of-the-art amphitheatre and meander through an array of lovely gardens. Or head to Square One, one of Canada’s largest shopping malls; the popular Living Arts Centre for a wide range of performing arts; or the expansive Playdium for all-ages fun.

Brampton Brampton.ca

Brampton earned its “Flower City” moniker with its everblossoming flower festivals, award-winning flowerbeds and gorgeous floral displays. Nature also rules at the city’s Gage Park, which opened in 1903 and now has myriad trails, whether for running or rollerblading, as well as a temperature-controlled skating trail set among the pines. The Rose Theatre, located in the heart of historic downtown, is home to top-tier theatre, musicals and symphony performances. Brampton’s diverse

Located only 33 kilometres northeast of downtown Toronto, this jewel-box-like village feels like a different world. It’s quiet, peaceful and scenic, thanks to the plethora of green spaces, grand Victorian homes and historic storefronts. A ride on the heritage railway is a picturesque way to learn about the old buildings, mills and churches that line Main Street and reflect the 18th-century legacy of the town’s first settlers.

The Niagara Region Tourismniagara.com

While the Falls themselves are spectacular enough to warrant a visit, the Niagara region offers a dynamic year-round visitor experience. The best views come at the base of the Falls with a trip on the Maid of the Mist, a long-time Niagara tradition. Museums with big names such as Ripley’s and Louis Tussaud (Madame’s great-grandson) are always a big hit with the kids. A must-do? Explore the award-winning wineries, many of which offer free tastings and on-site restaurants dedicated to creating dishes that bring out the best flavours in the wine.

Mississauga's Celebration Square

Streetsville Villageofstreetsville.com

Lively and rich in history, Mississauga’s scenic “village in the city” sits on the banks of the Credit River. Here, you can enjoy modern comforts—shopping, spa treatments, relaxing with a latte at an inviting café—while admiring the largest concentration of historic buildings in Mississauga. An evening walking tour, conducted by candlelight, reveals the stories behind the charming facades and how the town has evolved, TORONTO 2012 | 85

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Listings VISITOR RESOURCES

Toronto: The Vitals Make your trip in and around the city feel like home Location: The capital of Ontario, Toronto is on the northwestern shore of Lake Ontario, 352 kilometres west of Ottawa, 504 kilometres west of Montreal. Population: 2.5 million in the city of Toronto, 5.6 million in the Greater Toronto Area Area: 641 square kilometres Money: Canadian Dollar (CAD) Sales tax: 13% Harmonized Sales Tax Gratuity: Similar to the U.S.—15 to 20% for good service at, for example, a restaurant or hair salon, or in a taxi. Time zone: Eastern time—so you won’t have to adjust your watch if you’re from Boston, Philadelphia, Washington (DC), New York or Miami.

Photo: Tourism Toronto

Climate: Toronto’s weather is tempered by Lake Ontario, which softens the winter bite and eases the summer heat. Average winter temperatures range between 0 and –10 C, with snow usually on the ground between December and March. Summer, or “patio season” as Torontonians call it, usually hovers around 20 to 30 C.

90 | www.SeeTorontoNow.com

Listings visitor resources

Arriving in Toronto By Air Toronto has two main airports. Toronto Pearson International Airport (code YYZ), just west of Toronto, is the main point of landing for most domestic and international flights. Billy Bishop Toronto City Airport (code YZT), on the Toronto Islands, services domestic, chartered and select U.S. flights. The Billy Bishop Toronto City Airport is just a short ferry ride from shore, and then minutes from Union Station by taxi or streetcar. Toronto Pearson is 27 kilometres west of the city and is about a half-hour drive from downtown. There are several ways to get into the city from the airport. You’ll find major car rental outfits at both Terminal 1 and Terminal 3, open daily, 6 a.m. to 1 a.m.: Avis, 1-800-TRY-AVIS; Budget, 1-800-268-8900; Dollar/Thrifty, 1-800-THRIFTY; Hertz, 1-800-654-3131; and National/Alamo, 1-877-222-9075. Find detailed directions to the city on TorontoPearson.com, or online. If you’re not driving, there are lots of options. Check if your hotel offers an airport shuttle service. If not, you won’t have trouble finding a taxi or airport limousine. The average cost of getting into the city is about $50. To save money, take the TTC, Toronto’s transit system. Take the 192 Airport Rocket to Kipling Station or the 58A Malton to Lawrence West Station, where you can link to the subway line servicing the downtown core. Riding the “red eye”? Catch the 300A BloorDanforth bus from 2 a.m. to 5 a.m. and the 307 Eglinton West from 1:30 a.m. to 5 a.m. — both operate every 45 minutes. Visit ttc.ca for more info. To be comfortable yet frugal, take the Airport Express, a luxury bus service that connects Toronto Pearson to downtown Toronto. Each bus boasts leather seats and en route Wi-Fi capability, with direct service to seven downtown hotels, as well as the University of Toronto campus. The Airport Express costs $23.95 one way, $39.95 round trip, and runs every 20 to 30 minutes between 4 a.m. and 1 a.m., depending on the direction. Visit torontoairportexpress.com for the official schedule. By Bus Toronto’s main terminal for out-of-town buses is located downtown, at 610 Bay St. Call 416-393-7911 or visit torontocoachterminal.com for more information. For buses to other cities in and around the GTA, catch a GO Bus from 140 Bay St. (at Front St., just east of Union Station). Call 416-869-3200 for more information or visit gotransit.com.

By Train All trains arrive and depart from Union Station (65 Front St. W.). VIA Rail handles most of Canada’s intercity routes and connects to the U.S. via Amtrak. The Amtrak/VIA Maple Leaf route runs from New York to Toronto daily and takes around 12 hours, depending on the border wait. For more information: 1-888VIA-RAIL, viarail.ca or 1-800-USARAIL, amtrak.com; for general station information, call the Travellers’ Aid Society at 416-366-7788. Getting Around By TTC (Toronto Transit Commission) With four lines and 74 stops, Toronto’s subway system is easy to navigate. Maps are on all subway cars and also available at station ticket booths. Every subway stop connects to streetcar or bus routes that web throughout the city and connect to the GTA — hang onto your transfer to make your connections for free. Single fare is $3 for adults ($2 for students/ seniors, $0.75 for children) — buses and streetcars require exact fare. You can save money and avoid token lines if you buy blocks of four in advance. Or save money by buying a day or week pass. Single day passes cost $10 and allow unlimited rides from the start of service until 5:30 the following morning. On weekends and statutory holidays, the $10 day pass includes unlimited travel for a group of up to six people with a maximum of two adults. Weekly passes, valid from Monday to Sunday, cost $36 ($28 for students/ seniors). Visit ttc.ca or call 416-393INFO for further details. For information on routes out of the city and into Toronto’s neighbouring suburbs and countryside, check out the GO Transit bus and train schedules at gotransit.com. Planning to visit Mississauga? Visit mississauga.ca and look for the “click n’ ride” route planner, where all you need to do is punch in your origin and destination, and the website will map out your best route. For travel in Brampton, visit Brampton Transit at brampton.ca and click Residents, then Services for a link to more information on getting around with Brampton Transit. By Taxi There are a host of cab companies in Toronto, but all charge the same base rate of about $4 and $1.60 per kilometre or $0.50 a minute. The easiest cab number to remember is 416-TAXICAB, which will connect you to all taxi and airport limousine companies.

By Bike Renting a bike in the city is easy. Wheel Excitement, on the waterfront at Queen’s Quay West, is Toronto’s largest bike and inline skate rental outfit. Call 416-260-9000 or visit wheel excitement.ca for more information. Other bike rental shops include Set Me Free in High Park (416-532-4147) and Little Italy (416-516-6493), Enduro Sport in Leaside (416-449-0432), Cyclepath in North Toronto (416-487-1717), and Toronto Island Bicycle Rental on Toronto Island (416-203-0009). Then visit toronto.ca for a copy of Toronto’s Cycling Map, highlighting the city’s bicycle paths. On Foot Toronto is a city of neighbourhoods, each maintaining its own unique identity (see pages 82 to 85). There are a series of trails throughout the city’s parks, gardens and beaches. (Routes are outlined online at toronto.ca.) Many Toronto pedestrians weather the winter chill with help from PATH, a navigable maze of underground walkways and shopping arcades that runs directly beneath the downtown core. The 28-kilometre PATH connects five subway stations, six major hotels and some of Toronto’s main attractions, including Union Station, Roy Thomson Hall, Air Canada Centre, the CN Tower, Eaton Centre and City Hall. PATH maps are available online at toronto.ca. Helpful Tourist Info and Services The large Ontario Travel Information Centre is located at Atrium on Bay (20 Dundas St. W.) immediately north of the Eaton Centre. You can also find visitor information about Toronto and vicinity in a new information centre on the southeast quadrant of Nathan Phillips Square, at the corner of Queen and Bay streets. Or visit the tourist information booth at the Metro Toronto Convention Centre (North Building on Front St.) as well as tour and information desks on Queen’s Quay at York St. Want insider advice? Torontonians are keen to show you the city through their eyes. The Toronto Greeter Program and the TAP into TO initiative will send a volunteer greeter to welcome new visitors. By pairing guests and greeters with similar interests, the program offers visitors a chance to connect with Toronto — and Torontonians — on a personal level and to tap into the pulse of the city. Call 416-33-TAPTO for more info. More questions? Call Access Toronto at 416-338-0338 or 311 within city limits (Monday to Friday, between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m).

Entry Requirements At the border, visitors are required to present their passport and, if needed, a valid visa. U.S. citizens require a U.S. passport or another valid travel document to enter or re-enter the U.S. U.S. citizens don’t need a passport to cross into Canada (unless coming from a third country), but are required to have valid photo ID, proof of citizenship and, if available, their Permanent Resident Card. U.S. citizens can visit—without a visa—for up to 180 days. Frequent travellers between Canada and the U.S. should consider a NEXUS card, a valid Canada-U.S. travel document that also promises expedited and simplified border clearance. Find more information about NEXUS at cbsa-asfc.gc.ca/prog/nexus/ menu-eng.html. For more information about entry requirements, visit http://travel. state.gov./travel/cis_pa_tw/cis/ cis_1082.html (U.S. government site), or cbsa.gc.ca/security-securite/ admiss-eng.html#s1 (Canadian government site). Legal Matters • The legal drinking age is 19, and licensed establishments are allowed to serve between 11 a.m. and 2 a.m. • To get married in Ontario, consenting partners, 18 and older, must first obtain a marriage licence. Submit the application (available online) with two pieces of valid ID, along with the $100 to $150 fee, and it can generally be processed within a day, after which the licence is valid for 90 days. Same-sex marriage has been legal here since 2003. All of the information you need, along with the application form, is available at settlement.org.

visitor services Travellers Aid Society (TAS) 416-366-7788 www.travellersaid.ca Provides information on local transportation, attractions, current and future events and accommodations, as well as emergency assistance in travelcrisis situations through counters at Toronto Pearson International Airport, Union Station and Coach Station. Travellers Assistance Services 647-808-0098 (info), 905-676-2868 (Airport Terminal 1) www.travellersassistance.ca Non-profit volunteer organization providing free tourist and referral information and assistance to tourists visiting Toronto. Booths manned by volunteers at Union Station, Coach Terminal and Toronto Pearson International Airport.

TORONTO 2011 | 91

Event Calendar FESTIVALS & EVENTS 2012

North by Northeast Music and Film Festival

Mississauga Waterfront Festival

January Toronto International Boat Show Jan. 14–22 torontoboatshow.com Toronto International Design Festival Jan. 23–24 tidfonline.com Winterlicious Jan. 27–Feb. 9 toronto.ca/special_events

February Canadian International Auto Show Feb. 17–26 autoshow.ca Beach BIA Family Day Festival Feb. 20 beachesbia.com

March Canada Blooms: The Toronto Flower & Garden Festival Mar. 16–25 canadablooms.com

Please note: Dates are subject to change without notice. Please consult websites. For a complete calendar, please visit

VisitToronto

92 | www.SeeTorontoNow.com

TD Toronto Jazz Festival

April Sprockets: TIFF Kids International Film Festival Apr. 10–22 sprockets.ca Hot Docs Film Festival Apr. 26–May 6 hotdocs.ca Creativ Festival Apr. 27–28 csnf.com

May

National Home Show Mar. 16–25 nationalhomeshow.com

Scotiabank CONTACT Photography Festival May 1–31 scotiabankcontactphoto.com

St. Patrick’s Day Parade Mar. 17 topatrick.com

Goodlife Fitness Toronto Marathon May 6 runtoronto.com

Canadian Music Fest Mar. 21–25 canadianmusicfest.com

Carassauga: Mississauga’s Festival of Cultures May 25–27 carassauga.com

One of a Kind Spring Show and Sale Mar. 28–Apr. 1 oneofakindshow.com

Doors Open Toronto May 26–27 toronto.ca/doorsopen

Photos: Phil Ogynist (NXNE); Ontario Tourism (jazz festival, Pride Toronto); Doug Brown/Tourism Toronto (Mississauga Waterfront Festival, Cavalcade of Lights, TIFF)

FESTIVALS & EVENTS CALENDAR Toronto has it all, from celeb-packed parties at the Toronto International Film Festival to foodie-inspired menus at Taste of Little Italy, to jazz festival tunes that echo through the downtown streets. The 2012 roster of events celebrates the spirit of every neighbourhood, which together shape the region’s vibrant cultural landscape.

Event Calendar festivals & events 2012

Pride Toronto

Cavalcade of Lights

June Unionville Village Festival Jun. 1–3 unionvillefestival.com Waterfront Blues Festival Jun. 1–3 waterfrontblues.ca 40th Anniversary Streetsville Founder’s Bread and Honey Festival Jun. 2–3 breadandhoney.com CFC Worldwide Short Film Festival Jun. 5–10 worldwideshortfilmfest.com LuminaTO Jun. 8–17 luminato.com Woofstock Jun. 9–10 woofstock.ca North by Northeast Music and Film Festival Jun. 11–17 nxne.com Mississauga Waterfront Festival Jun. 15–17 themwf.com Taste of Little Italy Jun. 15–17 tasteoflittleitaly.ca War of 1812 Bicentennial Jun. 15–24 toronto.ca/1812 Flower City Parade Jun. 16 brampton.ca Redpath Toronto Waterfront Festival Jun. 21–24 towaterfrontfest.com

Toronto International Dragon Boat Race Festival Jun. 23–24 dragonboats.com Queen’s Plate Jun. 24 woodbineentertainment.com/ queensplate

July Toronto International Film Festival

Canada Day Jul. 1 toronto.ca/special_events mississauga.ca Toronto Fringe Theatre Festival Jul. 4–15 fringetoronto.com Toronto Outdoor Art Exhibition Jul. 6–8 torontooutdoorart.org Honda Indy Toronto Jul. 6–8 hondaindytoronto.com Summerlicious Jul. 6–22 toronto.ca/summerlicious

Mosaic, South Asia Heritage Festival of Mississauga Aug. 16–19 communityart.ca

torontoflamencofestival.com Scotiabank Toronto Waterfront Marathon Oct. 14 torontowaterfrontmarathon.com

Canadian National Exhibition Aug. 17–Sept. 3 theex.com

International Festival of Authors Oct. 17–27 readings.org

Scotiabank BuskerFest Aug. 23–26 torontobuskerfest.com Corso Italia Toronto Fiesta Aug. 31–Sept. 3 torontofiesta.com

Salsa on St. Clair Jul. 7–8 tlntv.com

September

Carabram: Brampton’s Multicultural Festival Jul. 13–15 carabram.org

Toronto International Film Festival Sept. 6–16 tiff.net

Beaches International Jazz Festival Jul. 20–29 beachesjazz.com

Tim Hortons Southside Shuffle Port Credit Blues + Jazz Festival Sept. 7–9 southsideshuffle.com

August Scotiabank Caribbean Carnival Parade Aug. 4–5 torontocaribbeancarnival.com Tennis Canada Rogers Cup Aug. 4–12 rogerscup.com

Pride Toronto Jun. 22–Jul. 1 (Parade Jul. 1) pridetoronto.com

Brampton Global Jazz and Blues Festival Aug. 9–12 artofjazz.org

TD Toronto Jazz Festival Jun. 22–Jul. 1 torontojazz.com

Pilaros Taste of the Danforth Aug. 10–12 tasteofthedanforth.com

Halloween on Church Oct. 24–31 churchwellesleyvillage.ca

November Royal Agricultural Winter Fair Nov. 2–11 royalfair.org 100th Grey Cup Festival Nov. 16–25 100thgreycupfestival.ca The Santa Claus Parade Nov. 18 thesantaclausparade.ca

Just for Laughs JFL 42 Sept. 21–30 hahaha.com

One of a Kind Christmas Show and Sale Nov. 22–Dec. 2 oneofakindshow.com

The Word on the Street Sept. 23 thewordonthestreet.ca

Cavalcade of Lights Nov. 24 toronto.ca/special_events

Scotiabank Nuit Blanche Sept. 29 scotiabanknuitblanche.ca

December

October Toronto International Flamenco Festival Oct. 12–20

Lowe’s Toronto Christmas Market at the Distillery District Nov. 30–Dec. 16 torontochristmasmarket.com New Year’s Eve Dec. 31 toronto.ca/special_events TORONTO 2012 | 93

Parting Shot

E How did this idea of quizzing passengers begin? I love geography and I studied it extensively. As I was driving around the city, I wondered how I might use this knowledge. I thought it would be good to spread what I know to my passengers in a fun way. I don’t need to be in a classroom to teach. E What kind of reactions do you get? My customers like being asked questions very much. When they leave my car, they are laughing and happy. It’s like they have just been to a comedy show. I treat them like they are guests in my home.

E Why geography and not history or music? Other countries have a lot of history, but Canada has a lot of geography. We are a big country. But I find that people do not know much about geography. Only one in 1,000 people can answer my questions correctly.

E What is it about Toronto that you love? Toronto is my city. I love the people here. It’s so multicultural. You have people who come here from every corner of the world and they bring with them their culture, traditions and different ways of life. It creates a huge mountain of information and knowledge that makes us like no other city.

E What are your favourite

Toronto does not have an official ambassador, but if it did, it would have to be Mohammad Saaed Collins, a.k.a. Mr. Geography. The cab driver, originally from Kuwait, has been making rides in his taxi unforgettable for locals and visitors since 1997. He serves as an unofficial quiz master, asking passengers questions about geography. The reward? If the passenger answers correctly, the ride is free. The concept has become a hit, earning him celebrity status. He is sought out by regulars and has earned an international following. Hollywood came calling, and he has appeared on The Tonight Show with Conan O’Brien. This local hero is a proud Torontonian on a mission to share his love of geography and Canada with the world.

www.SeeTorontoNow.com

E Can you give us a typical question you might ask your passengers? Okay. What is the tallest mountain in Canada? For the answer, go to SeeTorontoNow.com/mrgeography. – Michele Sponagle

Photo: Nadine Hoffman

In the driver’s seat with Mr. Geography

parts of the city? I like spicy food, so I like to go for lunch in Little India, around Gerrard and Coxwell. I like Italian food, too, so I will eat in Little Italy, around College and Clinton. But what I like most are the CN Tower and Lake Ontario. No matter how many times I see them, I still think they are very beautiful.

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