DEEP DIVE

DEEP DIVE WITH

CITARELLA’S JOE GURRERA

The founder behind beloved seafood shop Citarella, Joe Gurrera, serves up some ways to land the best catches of summer! BY SYDNEY SADICK

Your father was in the fish industry. Did you feel pressure to go into the same business or was it also your passion?

My dad wanted me to be a lawyer, but my passion was the seafood business. It started when I was a teenager working in my family’s seafood shop in Greenwich Village, but I always wanted to do something on my own. In those days, the atmosphere at the Fulton Fish Market was very different— more like the stock market, where everyone was buying, selling, and making deals. It was exciting to be a part of it.

When did you recognize the opportunity and decide to acquire Citarella?

I bought Citarella on Manhattan’s Upper West Side when I was 28, in 1983. At the time, the store was small [occupying just a fraction of the space that Citarella’s flagship location does today], but I saw it as an opportunity to build my love of seafood in this local treasure.

Citarella is known to source and sell the finest and most varieties of fish. How have you accomplished this?

Our uncompromising standard is the result of several factors, one being my relentless approach to hand-selecting the seafood for Citarella every day. And equally important are the decades-long relationships we’ve forged with the world’s best fishermen. I’m thankful for our fishermen in Montauk, who have supplied us with fish for years and work so hard all year round.

Are there seasonal varieties of fish?

Most associate seasonal eating with produce, but it applies to seafood as well. Because of the development of farm-raised seafood and the ability to ship from all over the world, seasonal isn’t as relevant as it used to be, but there are still some. In the summer, look for fish that grills well, like swordfish and salmon. In the winter, look for Nantucket Bay scallops; from early March through September, soft-shell crabs are in season.

How do you source fish one day and deliver it to a customer the next?

When seafood is ordered from our website, you’re guaranteed to receive the freshest product available. The fish is caught in Montauk or arrives at the fish market, then our fishmongers prepare it by hand that same day, wrap it in waxed paper, pack it with ice packs (never frozen!), and ship it overnight in an insulated box.

Which fish would be the easiest to prepare for the millennial who doesn’t have a ton of experience?

Grill salmon, swordfish, or tuna, about three minutes on each side (for a cut that’s approximately an inch thick) and you’re done!

Entertaining is especially big for the Fourth of July. How does one satisfy all their guests’ palates?

Because Citarella is a full gourmet market, the options are unlimited. You can choose anything from three-inch cowboy steaks for the grill and get some of our handmade prepared foods for the sides or create your own spread by selecting artisanal cheeses,

Joe Gurrera

dips, fresh seasonal fruits, and vegetables. If you’d rather spend the time with your guests and leave the work to us, then your best bet is to order from our seasonal catering menu, where you can select from a range of raw bar items, caviar, handcarved meats, imported cheese platters, and desserts.

How have you seen food trends evolve over the years?

There have been so many changes during my time in the food business but recently, you see less frying than you did years ago as people want healthier preparations. Organic foods are big as well.

Do you go out to restaurants in the Hamptons or do you usually cook at home?

I enjoy both! Sant Ambroeus, Argento, Pierre’s, Tutto il Giorno, and Le Bilboquet are a few of my favorite spots.

Your July 4th menu this year?

I usually cook for family and friends. We start with East Coast oysters on the half shell. Then I’ll make 10–12 whole fish on the grill or some of our fantastic Ultimate Aged Burgers.

Who are your favorite chefs?

I admire Jean-Georges, Éric Ripert, Daniel Boulud, Thomas Keller, Michael White—and, of course, the chefs at Citarella! T