Insider 120

THE CITY MAGAZINE OF

March - April 2015 Year 14. Issue 120 € 4.50 ISSN 1790-3114

ATHENS

The Promise of Spring Lenten feasts / Goat-fest in Skyros / Doma: A house in time / Greek wine comes of age Piraeus cityscope: Porto Leone, a city with a lion’s heart / Mikrolimano, a beguiling harbour Piraeus’ archaeological museum / Vassilenas, Piraeus' grande dame / Waterfront restaurants Plus: Restaurant reviews: Dourampeis Oyster, Pub life | MarchAND insider athens - April 2015 1 PLUS: ARTS, ENTERTAINMENT, FOOD & WINE, NIGHTLIFE, SHOPPING, NOVELTIES, MAPS MORE

2 insider athens | March - April 2015

Sudha Nair-Iliades

March always holds the promise of spring and the anticipation of Easter and nowhere else is the pre-Easter period as solemn and beautiful as it is in Greece. Symbolically, Easter coincides with a period of rebirth and light after one of purging and catharsis; it is hard not to draw the analogy with the uncertainties that have consumed our lives these past few months with renewed hopes of a slow resurgence.

As with all else, Greeks do not fare well with the concept of moderation – even when it comes to fasting! Lenten tables, by definition should be austere affairs, but here, they are weighed down by a cornucopia of Lenten delights from seafood to taramosalata and a whole array of vegan delicacies.

Our Lenten glossary should help you navigate through the traditional dos and don’ts.

publisher’s note

One of the most poetic places to celebrate a restorative Lenten meal is alongside the string of seafood restaurants that fringe the water in Mikrolimano. John Zervos touches a nostalgic note reminiscing of the Piraeus of his childhood, a period when Vassilenas, now in its 95th year, played host to celebs and statesmen. In another port city, Mike Sweet profiles a formidable pair of sisters who run a charming hotel in Crete.

For us at Insider, March also sees the re-launch of our weekly newspaper, Insider Weekly with the International New York Times-Kathimerini. It is the renewal of a long and fruitful collaboration we have shared with the daily which means that we can now provide you our brand of Insider tips and stories on a weekly basis.

Kali Sarakosti!

Sudha Nair-Iliades

Publisher - Editor Sudha Nair - Iliades

Web Design Siteland

Art Director Michel Devanakis

Contributors in this Issue Sherri Moshman Paganos, Mike Sweet, John Zervos, John Carr, Danylo Hawaleshka

Editorial Team Christina Michele Rios Muriel Noël Client Relations Sophia Velissaridis Web Content Royce Gavrias Photos Kalila Fahey, Philipp Gatos Manisha Glaentzer-Tawadey Kostas Bekas

Founder Steve Pantazopoulos Legal Counsel Christos Christopoulos Prepress and Printing Grafima Distribution Econews

Subscriptions * Athens Insider published in English in Greece € 30, Abroad € 60 *B onjour Athènes published in French in Greece € 20, Abroad € 40 * Both magazines in Greece € 50, Abroad € 90 Also published in Chinese, Russian, Turkish and Arabic Prices include VAT and postage. info@insider-magazine.gr www.insider-magazine.gr www.insider-publications.com Athens Insider is published monthly and its brand, logo and all editorial content is held worldwide by:

Insider Publications Ltd. located at Markou Botsari 16 A 117 41 Athens, Greece.

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Athens Insider: Monthly Publication ISSN 1790-3114 Code: 6548

insider athens | March - April 2015 1

Sophia Velissaridis

Sophia grew up in Johannesburg and studied industrial psychology at the University of South Africa (UNISA). She later moved to Greece to pursue her interest in fashion and travel. She juggled her twin careers in both industries, specializing in incoming tourism from emerging markets such as India and China. With an innate sense of style and privy to Athens’ best kept insider secrets, Sophia is a welcome addition to the Insider Publications team.

Born to a French-Spanish father and American mother, Christina is passionate about learning about new cultures, the arts and fashion. She attended the Fashion Institute of Technology in New York and worked for a number of luxury fashion brands, before relocating to Athens in 2008. She hasn’t looked back since and has been culling the best addresses to wine and dine in the city for Athens Insider and our weekly newsletter.

Danylo Hawaleshka

Danylo developed a taste for European living early on, immersed in the rich French character of his home city of Montreal, Canada. Having visited Greece a number of times, in 2007 he left Toronto, where he was a senior writer with Maclean’s, Canada’s weekly newsmagazine, and came to live in Athens. Today, he continues to write for Maclean’s as a contributing editor. He also writes and photographs for The Globe and Mail in Canada, as well as for the Canadian Broadcasting Corporation’s website. Dan now works as News Editor for Al Jazeera in Doha.

John Zervos, President of the Athens Centre, is Athens Insider’s chronicler of the city’s history. Using his own brand of erudition and wit to weave in and out of the present, John Zervos recounts anecdotes, reminisces of smoky rembetika bars and elegant Kolonaki women brunching at Zonar’s and tells the story of Athens as few do.

Sherri Moshman Paganos

Manisha GlaentzerTawadey

A documentary producer for the BBC Television in the 1990s, Michael worked in broadcasting in South Asia before relocating to Australia in 2002, where he established his TV production business. He has lived in Athens since 2007 and is correspondent for the English language edition of Australia’s largest circulation Greek newspaper Neos Kosmos. Michael combines his writing with producing independent documentary films and continues to visit Greece regularly.

Greek-German Phil Gatos and New Yorker Kalila Fahey, both studying international communications and media at the University of Utrecht, are currently interning with Insider. Avid travellers with a passion for photography, they have been exploring and gathering insights into new cultures.

2 insider athens | March - April 2015

John Zervos

Leaving Manhattan in the mid-1980’s, Sherri Moshman Paganos came to Greece for a two year sojourn that turned into a 30-year career as an educator, as well as a non-fiction writer and poet. She loves the wonders of living here: food cooked with tradition and care, swimming in the clear sea, watching films and concerts under the stars, and taking walks into the past in vibrant Athens neighborhoods like Plaka and Thiseio.

Manisha Glaentzer-Tawadey was born in India and grew up in Italy. She has travelled in many countries including Japan, France, the UK and Afghanistan. With a passion for music, photography and poetry, Manisha is currently studying Hospitality and Tourism Management at the Alpine Centre, City Unity College in Greece.

Mike Sweet

CHRISTINA MICHELE RIOS

Kalila Fahey & Philipp GATOS

08 10 14

Features

Sections Arts & Events

04

Cinema

08

Books

09

Theatre

10

Music

12

Portrait

16

City Scope

20

Gastronomy

28

Travel

32

Eating out

36

Pub Life 40 Two iconic pubs to celebrate St. Patrick’s Day: Molly Malone’s and The James Joyce

Restaurants Reviews

38

Mad Greek Dictionary 41 An Insider’s Guide to colourful Greekisms by John Carr and Paul Anastasi

Travel

34

Wellness

42

Kaleidoscope

64

Remembering Robin A tribute to Robin Williams

08

A watering hole 30 An all-day pub on the waterfront

Four Must Reads Page-turners for this spring

09

The Doma, a house in time 32 The chequered story of a remarkable family-run hotel in Crete

Sleepless in Athens 10 Insomnia, a witty play exploring a family’s choices in the crisis Raising a toast to Greek wine 14 Constantine Stergides, organizer of Oenorama, on the evolution of Greek wine Through Angelos’ eyes 16 A portrait of a photographer

by Mike Sweet PIRAEUS CITYSCOPE Porto Leone 20 A nostalgic look at Piraeus, the city with a lion’s heart Small Port, Big Charm 24 Mikrolimano, Piraeus most beguiling little harbor A Jewel in Piraeus 26 The Piraeus Archaeological Museum showcases the port city’s rich historic past Vassilenas 28 A restaurant that has seduced foodies for nine decades

Playing the Goat Get into the spirit of the goat festival in Skyros

34

Lenten Glossary A foodie’s guide to Lenten dos and don’ts

36

The world is their oyster 38 Dourambeis Oyster promises delectable seafood and a whiff of ocean spray

Beauty is only skin deep Getting under the skin to smooth out imperfections

42

20 34 36 38 41 Cover illustrations:

by Michel Devanakis

Find us on:

insider athens | March - April 2015 3

11 march

Orange Grove Hub Dot Athens A global movement of women inspired by the concept of helping women of all professional and cultural backgrounds to connect, face-to-face, and share stories about success, failure, courage, motherhood, reinvention, personal growth and entrepreneurship. The concept is above removing ‘labels’ and replacing them with ‘coloured dots,’ which their logo represents.

Vas. Konstantinou 5-7, 211.408.2551, hubdot.com

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14

until

march

15

until

march

Athens House of Photography

Benaki Museum-Museum of Islamic Art

Pnoi Dentron-In Delicate Balance by John Demos This visually appealing photography exhibition focuses on the well-known Greek photographer’s black and white images of trees in the landscape.

Trees dominate in Demos’ work from the late 1970s, with an emphasis on the search for a spiritual representation and timeless spirit in their depictions.

Zirini 23, Kifissia, 210.522.8696, phototheatreon.com

Theodoros Rallis: Gazing at the East This exhibition includes paintings, correspondence, photographs, illustrations and work inspired by literature, poetry, Greece and the Middle East. The exhibition is organized into three parts, an introduction with archival material, a second part entitled “Faith in the East” and a third dedicated to “The Harem and the bath.” This exhibition attempts to explore the look of the West towards the ‘other’ East. Guided Tours available.

Agion Asomaton 22 & Dipylou 12, Kerameikos, 210.325.1311, benaki.gr

19 march

All around Greece Gout de France The French Embassy organises a gastronomic initiative on March 19 to get Francophiles and foodies world over to savour the goodness of a real French meal. With over 1500 restaurants across the globe presenting and serving the exact same menu on the same day, the French Ministry of Foreign Affairs hope to win the hearts of its tourists-to-be through their palates. Check out the list of participating restaurants in Greece on insider-publications.com. int.rendezvousenfrance.com/en

On the town For location details see listings p.61

19 02 26 march

april

16th Francophone Film Festival Now established as an important date in the cultural agenda of the city, the 16th edition of the Francophone Film Festival, as every spring, brings the best of French language cinema to Greece. Romance, action, drama, comedy, suspense and even bonechilling horror – the Festival in Athens and Thessaloniki promises all this and more. www.ifa.gr, www. festivalfilmfrancophone.gr.

march

28

until

march

until

29 march

Onassis Cultural Centre

The Benaki Museum

Megaron Mousikis

2nd Ambassadors in Concert Ambassadors, diplomats and their spouses as well as trained classical musicians get together for an evening of classical music to show solidarity and to raise money for the SOS children’s village in Vari. A diplomatic charitable musical initiative, launched in 2003 in Austria, the AiC extended beyond the Austrian borders for the first time with the launch of AiC’s Greek edition last year. All proceeds from ticket sales to go to the SOS Children’s village.

The evening will be followed by cocktails and light finger food.

Tickets: 15, 25 and 45 euros, incl. performance and reception 107-109 Syngrou avenue, 213.017.8000 sosathens@sos-villages.gr, sgt.gr

Alkis Pierrakos Exhibition An exhibition featuring the art of painting as a means of narrative, depicting a violence conveyed by this inescapable news agenda with present day conflicts using the Mediterranean sea as a setting.

In these drawings, ruled by expressionist tension and the force of drawing, Pierrakos dramatically outlines the sense of a fierce clash using a series of drawings with ink on paper.

N. Hadjikyriakos-Ghika Gallery, Kriezotou 3, 210.361.5702, benaki.gr

Pierre Beaumarchais: The Marriage of Figaro Following the success of their Iliad, Stathis Livathinos and his award-winning troupe are now presenting their new project, a masterpiece of the French classical repertory, Beaumarchais’ Marriage of Figaro. Apart from its political dimension, it which it brings together many of the ideological preoccupations of the Enlightenment, the work is also a frenzied comedy which exploits the cast’s talents for improvisation.

Nikos Skalkotas Hall, Vass. Sophias & Kokkali, 210.728.2333, megaron.gr

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until

05 april

Avaton Theatre Insomnia Prospero Theatre Group presents ÂŤInsomnia,Âť a Canadian play by Guillermo Verdecchia and Daniel Brooks. The play is a brilliant exploration of the inner world of a couple in an economic crisis facing the possibility of pregnancy and worrying about the changes brought in their life and relationship. It is a witty fast-paced play that deals with serious issues-using a surreal blend of humor, tragedy and bold performances from its four actors.

Exclusive offer to Insider readers: Buy 1 ticket, get 1 free, mention offer code: INSIDER1+1 over the telephone Avaton Theatre, Evpatridon 3, Gazi (Kerameikos Metro Station), Box office: 210.341.2689, 69.736.85.097

6 insider athens | March - April 2015

19

until

april

The National History Museum Imagining the Balkans: Identities and Memory in the long 19th century This groundbreaking international exhibition explores the emergence of modern national identities and nation states, with a focus on the 19th century. It explores the history of ideological, sociopolitical, economic and cultural changes in the Balkans and narrates a common history while highlighting the similarities between people and states despite their national rivalries.

Stadiou 13, 210.323.7617, nhmuseum.gr

31

until

may

Cycladic Museum of Art Hygeia. Health, Illness, Treatment from Homer to Galen A tour from 1200 BC to the 3rd century AD of the evolution of ancient healing practices, examining the transition from magic-religious healing to rational, scientific medicine including three thematic sections: Health, Illness and Treatment and over 300 ancient artifacts.

Neophytou Douka 4, 210.722.8321, cycladic.gr

31

until

may

The Municipal Art Gallery of Athens Exhibition: Athens, 180 years the capital of Greece The Municipal Art Gallery of Athens is celebrating 100 years since its inauguration and 180 years of Athens as the capital of Greece by hosting this historical art exhibition. It is dedicated to artists who loved and immortalized moments, people, monuments and ideas of Athens, including work by local and foreign artists.

Pireos 51, Koumoundourou, 210.323.1841 cithyofathens.gr

ΔΙΟΡΓΑΝΩΣΗ

•

Off to Oenorama!

Greece’s No1 Wine Show. More than 140 wineries, hundreds of wines, three days of tastings!

7-8-9 | 03 | 2015 ➔ ZAPPEION MEGARON Opening hours 10:00 - 19:00 | Info: www.oenorama.com UNDER THE AUSPICES

MEDIA SPONSORS

ADVANCE TICKET SALES

Also, during Athens Wine Week (March 1-8): Scores of side events with tastings, lectures, wine dinners and shows all over the city.

Check the program at www.AthensWineWeek.gr.

Cinema

It’s that time of year again, when film buffs learn which films and actors Hollywood has honoured, and who has received a special lifetime achievement award. If Robin Williams had lived, he might be so honoured. But as we all know, his death last year made the world lose not only a dedicated actor, but a great comic genius.

Sherri Moshman Paganos draws excerpts from a tribute to Robin Williams by Dr. Andrew Horton A warm and stirring tribute was recently given to Robin Williams at the Hellenic American Union in Athens by Andrew Horton, Jeanne H. Smith Professor of Film and Media Studies at the University of Oklahoma. Wearing a blue T-shirt with a picture of Mrs. Doubtfire holding a dustbroom, Horton, award-winning screenwriter, producer and author, told the audience that he had the privilege of meeting Robin Williams in 1982, when he starred in “The World According to Garp.” After years of doing stand-up and improvisation, “Garp” was Robin’s first solid role in film, following his portrayal as Mork from Ork in the TV series “Mork and Mindy.”

Demonstrating Robin’s improvisational gifts, Horton showed clips from the Tonight Show and an Actors Studio interview, with Robin adlibbing and character-creating for a good five minutes, playing off the audience, wild with laughter, before he actually “settled down” to the interview. This comic brilliance shines through his role in “Good Morning Vietnam” as disc jockey Adrian Kranauwer. After several dramatic roles, Robin finally got the chance to adlib as much as he wanted.

But as Horton emphasized, comedy rarely strays too far from tragedy, and a scene from the film beautifully illustrates the conjunction of the two.

As Robin does his routines for some soldiers, he watches them leave, sadness in his eyes, aware they may never return. A following scene shows him playing “What a Wonderful World” with images of children, grenades, fire, brutality. Laughter is laced with tears.

“I love to watch and to write films,” Horton has written, “that somehow make me both laugh and cry, sometimes at the same time, more often in an alternating rhythm of emotions.” This is what life is after all, this bittersweet alternating rhythm of happiness and sadness.

Many great actors play bittersweet tragicomedy.

Horton presented the example of Thanassis Vengos, primarily known as a comedian, but who also excelled in dramatic films, as shown in a clip from Theodore Angelopoulos’ film “Ulysses’ Gaze.”

As part of the tribute, audience participants expressed their favorite film of Robin’s and why. One mentioned a lesser-known film “The Fisher King”

by Terry Gilliam, (for which Robin was nominated

8 insider athens | March - April 2015

for an Oscar), another, “Awakenings” with Robert de Niro. Still another mentioned undoubtedly most people’s favorite role, Mr. Keating, ‘Oh Captain, My Captain’ in “Dead Poets’ Society,” with its memorable finale of the students showing their love to their captain, standing on their desks as he murmurs “thank you boys.”

There are the comic roles and the roles with comic pathos such as “Mrs. Doubtfire”, where he does the extreme to be with his children, and the dramatic roles like in “Dead Poets Society” or the psychiatrist in “Good Will Hunting” (for which he won an Oscar for best supporting role) where he plays a sympathetic father-like character that helps others. These father figure roles, Horton emphasized, are because Robin himself lacked a strong father figure, spent lonely hours in his house playing toy soldiers, and often performed to get his mother’s attention.

Robin was not afraid to take risks in films, as in the unsympathetic roles of the creepy lonely guy in “One Hour Photo” and the murderer in “Insomnia” where he plays opposite Al Pacino. What a pleasure to see these two actors together. Like a great actor, Robin could do it all. Besides television, film and stand-up, Robin also branched into animated characters. As the genie in “Aladdin”, he put away the script, creating as many as 50 different characters in his adlibbing and improvisation.

But he wasn’t only a talented actor and comic. He was a caring person, stressed Horton, who went to great lengths to help others. He went to Afghanistan and Iraq to entertain the soldiers more than any other comedian. It’s as if he took his role in “Good Morning Vietnam” to heart. It was said that he was a “gentle soul who traveled at the speed of light.” This speed in Robin’s frenzied comedy, and with many comedians, often masked the demons and darkness that he managed to keep at bay much of the time. But at the end, the darkness won out, leaving a void in our lives. Indeed, one question from the audience, that made Horton request time to think about, was who he would cast in the starring role in a life of Robin Williams. Horton was stumped, as were we all; who could possibly portray Robin, for when you fly at the speed of light, no one can keep up with you. i

Stoner

A Good School

The Professor

Small World

John Williams New York Review Books 288 pages, 13.20 €

Richard Yates Picador 192 pages, 12.60 €

Charlotte Brontë Hesperus Press 220 pages, 12.00 €

David Lodge Vintage 352 pages, 11.20 €

If you’re a fan, like us, of stories set in the dark halls of libraries and universities, this is definitely one to read.

Α novel about a New England prep school. A Good School tells the stories of William Grove, the quiet boy who becomes an editor of the school newspaper; Jack Draper, a crippled chemistry teacher; and Edith Stone, the schoolmaster’s young daughter, who falls in love with the most celebrated boy in the class of 1943. The book is at once a meditation on the twilight of youth and an examination of America’s entry into World War II.

Discover the first novel Charlotte Brontë ever wrote, an autobiographically inspired love story which remained unpublished in her lifetime.

Jet-propelled academics who are on the move in a world of glamorous travel and high excitement, where stuffy lecture rooms are swapped for lush corners of the globe!

William Stoner is born at the end of the nineteenth century into a dirt-poor Missouri farming family.

Sent to the State University to study agronomy, he instead falls in love with English literature and embraces a scholar’s life, so different from the hardscrabble existence he has known.

William Crimsworth has no money or friends in the world and so jumps at the opportunity of a teaching job in Brussels.

He will teach English at two boarding schools – and carve out a successful reputation – but along the way he will have to negotiate the vagaries of human nature and deal with love, betrayal and loss.

In an interview, the author gives us a clearer picture of this academic romance:

“When I started thinking about the novel, I wanted to deal with the phenomenon of global academic travel. …. I was intrigued by the conjunction of And yet as the years pass, Stoner Through typical schoolboy high-level academic discussion encounters a succession of dramas, inappropriate with a certain amount of partying disappointments: marriage into relationships, office politics and a “proper” family estranges him An often neglected classic which and tourism; by the mixture infighting, we get a good feel of cultures; and by the idea of from his parents; his career is offers a fascinating and unique for what is going on behind the people, all of whom know each stymied; his wife and daughter read. Careful: you will find a lot scenes. other, converging from all over turn coldly away from him; a of French inside (!), thankfully transforming experience of new A short book which is a worthy and tactfully translated at the end the world on various exotic places to talk about fairly esoteric love ends under threat of scandal. read. Richard Yates, who died in of the book… subjects, and then flying off, Driven ever deeper within 1992, is today ranked by many “Tact, if it be genuine, never only to meet each other again himself, Stoner rediscovers the readers, scholars, and critics sleeps.” in another exotic venue. This stoic silence of his forebears and alongside such titans of modern is where I started: a kind of confronts an essential solitude.

American fiction as Updike, Roth, academic comedy of manners, Magnificent prose. This luminous Irving, Vonnegut, and Mailer. with a global dimension.” David and deeply moving novel of Lodge, interviewed by the author academia will blow you away.

Raymond H. Thompson in 1989.

Books recommended by bookstore Lexikopoleio. lexikopoleio.com

insider athens | March - April 2015 9

Theatre

Prospero Theatre Group presents Insomnia, a Canadian play written by Guillermo Verdecchia and Daniel Brooks and directed by George Papastylianos. A witty, fast-paced play that explores the inner world of a couple caught in

Tell us about the play and why we should come and watch it

the crisis with surreal humour, Insomnia promises to be Insomnia is an inside look into the mind of a person troubled by all the a thought-provoking play, bound to evoke a few smiles

An interview with director George Papastylianos.

modern conceptions of our society. John F. the «hero-antihero» of the play is troubled by the everyday problems of our world along with his unavailability to react truthfully to whatever is happening in his life.

The same goes for the other characters of the play who one way or the other have surrendered their life in the hands of an everyday routine governed by rules that are far away from their real self. The state of Insomnia that we are more or less all experiencing nowadays, is a result of our weakness to cope with our modern day issues and problems concerning our relationships, jobs, values, ethics and generally our position as human beings in this world. But there is always a way out of this situation and that is what our performance gives in the end.

In regards to the play’s storyline, would you say it is ‘life imitating art’ or ‘art imitating life’?

This is a difficult question to answer because usually in life it is both ways round. Regarding the play we could say that everything experienced by the characters has or is happening in life. The twist of the play is that some of the scenes are probably happening in the imaginary world/mind of our basic character John F. which is a reality in our real life itself.

So the lines drawn between art and life are not always distinguished.

The great thing about Insomnia is that it manages to create a wonderful bridge between dreams and reality in a way that someone projects his own life through the storyline and images of our performance.

Based on your personal experience, should one bring a child into the world in the middle of an economic crisis?

Of course. We should always bring and raise children in this world! Even in an economic crisis! The problem of having a child while there is an economic crisis is purely a state of mind the ‘system’ or ‘society’ is trying to encompass in our lives. There have been worse periods in history especially in Greece, with big economic problems but people always kept on living their lives and bringing children into this world. The problem is that we are convinced nowadays that without a certain amount of money we should not have kids. The thing is that we don’t realize that crisis comes and goes forever in life, but every child/person is unique in our lifetime. So let’s have children no matter what happens!

As a Greek-Canadian coming back to Greece, what feels more like home now and why?

Home is always where you feel like home! Of course, Greece is the country of both my parents and having been raised in two different countries I feel connected to both of them. As a friend who watched me act in English told me, ‘my soul is Greek and my personality is Canadian’. The secret for me is like the character I am playing, to balance my duality without losing my innate nature. So now that I am living in Athens, my home is here! i

10 insider athens | March - April 2015

With the International New York Times-Kathimerini English Edition A weekly supplement with the latest events, interviews, Top 5 must-dos, cinema and TV picks of the week, food and drink, books, music, theatre and so much more!

Insider Publications • www.insider-publications.com insider athens | March - April 2015 11

Music

The 2nd Ambassadors in Concert, a musical charity initiative with proceeds going to the SOS Children’s Village in Vari, takes place at the Onassis Cultural Centre on March 26. Following the huge success of the concert last year, diplomats perform under the guidance of Nikos Tsaousis of the Greek National Opera, at a bigger venue, hoping to make this philanthropic event an annual date in Athens’ social calendar Sudha Nair-Iliades in conversation with Nikos Tsaousis at Varoulko Seaside.

How did the idea of the Ambasadors in Concert come about?

It was inspired by the Ambassadors in Concert (AiC) that was launched in 2003 as a private initiative of Ambassadors in Vienna and their friends in Austria and abroad. This diplomatic charitable music initiative, moved beyond the borders of Austria, with diplomats serving in Greece with the participation of Greek artists organizing the 1st Ambassadors in Concert in Athens in 2014 to show solidarity for the remarkable work being done by the SOS Children’s Villages Greece.

The former Austrian Ambassador to Greece, H.E. Melitta Schubert (great-granddaughter of the illustrious composer) spearheaded the idea last year along with Mr. George Protopappas of SOS Children’s Village and I was roped in as the creative director.

Slovakia, Switzerland and the United Kingdom have responded with enthusiasm and offered their musical skills by performing works of Vivaldi, Schubert, Rossini, and Manos Chatzidakis. Participating in the program are acclaimed musicians and world-class singers such as Sophia Kyanidou, Irini Karagianni, Christina Poulitsi, Nikos Xanthoulis, and others. Composer Dimitris Arapis will also present one of his own new works. The evening’s lighting design is generously offered by internationally acclaimed (and Emmy award-winner for the 2004 Olympic Games), Eleftheria Deko.

But the real highlight is reserved for the end – all I’m willing to say as of now is that it will be something exclusive, graced by an international legend.

You have the enviable responsibility of making diplomats from different countries with varying musical talents sing to your tune!

What are some of the highlights this year?

It has been a challenge to mesh in the very busy schedules of the all the participating diplomats to rehearse together but we’ve managed to do so, for a second year in a row. Several diplomats, who claim ‘not to have any perceivable musical talent’, (their words, not mine!) such as the Canadian Ambassador, H.E. Robert Peck, have been helping to champion the event with his colleagues in the diplomatic community by working behind the scenes. So it has been a wonderful experiment of working together and creating some music in the bargain for a very worthy cause. The Dean of Diplomatic Corps, the Moroccan Ambassador, H.E. Abdel El Ansari will officially open the evening.

Joining the diplomats will be professional musicians. The Ambassadors of Australia, Austria, Estonia, Hungary, Japan, Luxembourg, Mexico,

How can one help this remarkable initiative?

All proceeds from the concert will be donated to an NGO with universal appeal that supports children in need - the SOS Children’s Village. We are delighted to be working with such a credible partner such as the Onassis Concert. Last year, we were at a smaller venue and it was a sold-out performance. We hope that with a larger venue, we will be able to accommodate all those who were disappointed not to find seats last year. One can help by spreading the word around, buying tickets and joining in for an evening of music and solidarity. Tickets are priced at 15, 25 and 40 euros. Tickets go on sale as of March 5, 2015 i 2nd Ambassadors in Concert, Onassis Cultural Centre, 105-107, Syngrou Avenue at 20:30 on March 26, 2015.

For more information, please contact the Onassis Cultural Centre at 210 900 5800, or Ms. Clio Giannakaroni at the SOS Children’s Villages Greece at 210 331 3661.

12 insider athens | March - April 2015

Greek Orthodox Easter 11/4

Holy Saturday Dinner 36€ per person drinks included 50% discount, children up to 12 years

12/4

Easter Lunch Buffet 45€ per person drinks included 50% discount, children up to 12 years

mmk.gr

Favorable Accommodation rates & Breakfast combined with the Holy Saturday Dinner or / and the celebrative Easter Buffet Lunch at the Parliament Restaurant.

Reservations: tel: (+30) 210 3352400

www.njvathensplaza.gr • email: welcome@njvathensplaza.gr

insider athens | March - April 2015 13 Πληροφορίες - Kρατήσεις:

Wine

Constantine Stergides, who has been organizing Oenorama since 1994 speaks to Athens Insider on the remarkable evolution of Greek wine over the past two decades.

Oenorama is an annual date for wine producers and oenophiles alike. How was Oenorama born?

We created Oenorama in 1994 just as the so-called “Greek Wine Renaissance” movement was emerging and exciting things were beginning to happen in the Greek vineyard. Basically, as an event, we have evolved alongside Greek wine, being both the annual meeting place for the Greek wine industry and also the showroom of Greek wines.

Oenorama was initially designed as a trade-only event that took place every two years, so in 2001 we created another show for consumers which we named Dionysia, which was held every odd year. This year we decided to merge the two exhibitions, keep the Oenorama brand and hold the show at Zappeion Megaron which has the advantage of being right in the city centre. Of course the show has grown considerably over the years; our best year was 2008 and our worst 2012. This year (2015) we have about 150 wineries (as direct and indirect exhibitors) which is better than 2011, so I would say that as far as the Greek wine industry is concerned, the economy is picking up.

14 insider athens | March - April 2015

Quite a few Greek wine producers rely heavily on exports and Greek wines are being served in restaurants and homes across the world.

In what specific ways do you find that Greek wines have evolved in quality and consistency over the past fifteen years? How have events/shows such as Oenorama contributed to the promotion of Greek labels domestically and internationally?

Exports remain a small percentage of overall Greek wine sales. I’d be surprised if they represent more than 15% in volume. Nevertheless, it’s true that developing exports is a one-way street for any winemaker producing in excess of, say, 50.000 bottles which isn’t that big of a number anyway. The recession has certainly affected the way Greeks buy wine, they have downgraded considerably, therefore winemakers producing our best and most expensive wines have to explore other avenues more than ever, though Greek winemakers have always been very worldly.

In fact, it is rather interesting to note that the reason Greek wine has made such progress over the past 25 years, is that it has positioned itself vis-a-vis the international competition. The Greek wine industry has consistently delivered products way and beyond the expectations of the average Greek, because it was actually aiming at the global markets.

This would explain why something similar never happened until now in other industries, such as cheese, olive oil or meat. As far as Oenorama’s contribution to the promotion of Greek wines, I would say that we have done a fantastic job in educating the Greek consumer and in creating a very upmarket image of Greek wine for international buyers and journalists who have visited the show over the years.

It is said that in good times, one drinks; in bad times, one drinks more. In the Greek context, does that translate as good news for wine producers?

As I mentioned earlier, most Greek consumers have downgraded in their wine choices. Overall the quantities consumed are the same, but now most sales are in the 3 to 5 euro range. Of course many consumers have also turned to bulk wine, the famous “hyma”. These are very inexpensive wines often sold in plastic bottles with no name on them. I firmly believe that this is a passing phenomenon - once someone discovers the joys of high quality bottled wines they can’t revert to “hyma” wines unless they really have to as is the case today.

Finally, wine to you is...

An incredibly rich world whose exploration is never-ending. i

Portrait

Angelos Giotopoulos has called Athens home for more than decade. Michael Sweet paints a picture of the Melbourne-born photographer and film maker

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’ve caught Angelos Giotopoulos as he’s about to head downtown for a screening of his latest project - a 15-minute video documentary exploring Athenian ex-pats’ reactions to SYRIZA’s victory at the election. While Giotopoulos is better known as a photographer, his move into videography in 2014 with the BoxTown Project - a video production company formed with two friends - has turned heads and gained critical acclaim..

In the notoriously difficult terrain of independent film making, as new kids on the block, BoxTown are telling stories with rare sensitivity and passion, and much is down to Angelos’s unique visual awareness - honed over a decade as one of Athens’ most successful documentary photographers.

Born in 1977, the youngest of two brothers, he grew up in Melbourne, “like any other Greek Aussie, a blue collar home, and living in the suburbs.” His father (from Larissa), a baker, and mother (from Mytiline), a seamstress, had emigrated Down Under in the 1960s.

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“Both my parents worked like champs ‘to give us a better life’, as they kept telling us, and in essence, they provided that,” says Angelos.

“Our generation was a fortunate one.”

“It’s amazing what a bit of coffee bean can offer you and who you can meet. It’s the same as the camera. It grants you access to places - an ID to go practically anywhere.”

In 1986 the family moved to Greece, but didn’t stick. A year later he found himself back in Australia. While teachers praised his potential, Angelos admits he wasn’t a model pupil.

And anywhere - away from Australia - was where Angelos was headed.

By the early 2000s the streets of the Victorian capital had become all too familiar. There was another world out there and Giotopoulos wanted to experience it. The time had come “to do Europe”.

“I didn’t take it too seriously, I was one of the smart arses”. Though not academically motivated, an artistic flair began to filter through.

He drew. Secondary college followed, after which he took a sports therapy course enabling him to work as a therapist. A string of odd jobs came and went. A move to the coast north of Sydney for a year saw him taking photos for the local newspaper - the Byron Shire News, but soon Melbourne was calling him home.

“I didn’t really ‘move’ to Greece,” he says. “I arrived in Athens in 2004 as a starting point for a ‘euro trek’, but I had a one way ticket”.

As the Olympic Games returned triumphantly to their place of birth, Angelos and a friend landed jobs with the biggest sporting extravaganza in the world - helping set up a merchandise superstore near the Olympic village. It was a means to an end.

Angelos reconnected with his mates, who happened to be studying photography at University.

“It was about making ‘coin’ for future unplanned endeavours,” says Angelos.

“I tried to get in some lectures,” says Angelos, “but I’d get kicked out, so I’d hang out with the dude in control of giving out equipment to the students. I was shooting for myself at that stage - a sort of rogue photographer.”

The Olympics - and the euphoria that arrived with it - came and went. Meanwhile, the Greek capital was now home to Angelos and soon he was plying his trade as a photographer.- pitching photo stories to Athens-based magazines with ever greater success.

Allowed to include some of his prints as part of the University’s official students’ show, it was there he would sell his first photograph - a landscape, with the buyer being noted Melbourne artist Richard Morrison.

“I just kept running around and selling to the domestic industry, then slowly slowly European and international titles starting buying my work,” he says.

After this taste of success, Angelos combined shooting with parttime work in one of Melbourne’s great industries - coffee. “I worked freelance for a few magazines while being a coffee delivery boy, and in doing so I learned so much about Melbourne - the ins and outs of the culture.”

By the late 2000s Angelos was in demand, covering stories inside and outside Greece for K magazine, Newsweek, BHMA, Taxydromos (Ta Nea) and a host of other titles, including Athens Insider.

But as the Greek economic crisis deepened, the stories the world wanted to see - and editors wanted to pay for - were much closer to

insider athens | March - April 2015 17

home. The Greek debt crisis - and its reverberations - had arrived big-time.

As waves of social unrest at the enforced austerity measures ignited riots on the streets of central Athens in 2010, Angelos was in the right place at the right time.

“So many agencies were pumped into Greece. It was a really good time to be a photographer here,” says Angelos.

Did he sympathise with those protesting? “I didn’t take sides, but if you sat me down, I’d say I’m against a lot of things that have happened, and are happening to Greece, but in my profession I shoot what I see.”

“It was about people fighting something that was pushed on them, that’s the way I look at it.”

2010 was a watershed for Angelos in more personal ways too. He married ‘the girl next door’ - Petroula, who works in publishing. Even the wedding itself was permeated by the impact of the crisis.“On our wedding day when we came out of the dimarxio, instead of confetti in the air there was tear gas.”

While the storm may have passed, Angelos believes there are lessons to be learned both from the crisis and the challenges Greece still faces: it’s all about self-belief and generational change.

“When a country hits rock bottom the first thing to blossom is creativity and I see that here,” he says.

“Do your thing to the best of your ability and move with the times.

Your thoughts create the world you live in, so if you want to look at things negatively, then that’s what you’ll get.

Four years ago, an example of Angelos’s positive philosophy was his establishing of the Falcon Photo Agency - a device to promote not just

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his own work but the work of emerging photo-journalists.

“I like helping people out who have great work and can’t get it published,” he says. “I step in and propose the work to the markets that I’ve found in Europe.”

Reflecting on a decade as an Athenian, this father, film maker, photographer and story-teller, has no regrets, and his message of hope for his adopted and adored country is simple and profound.

“Greece will thrive if the right mindset is put in place,” he says. “Keep the same vibe as before, but allow smart youngsters to do their thing - without them being fearful of taking a step forward or taking a risk. They need backing from the older generation. It’s the only way forward.” i Angelos Giotopoulos’ latest documentary SYRIZA - The State of Greece (BoxTown Productions) can be seen online at https://vimeo. com/119535983

Athens Energy Forum 2015

Energy Security and Cooperation Wednesday & Thursday, 11-12 March 2015 | Hotel Grande Bretagne

The Athens Energy Forum 2015, the third energy conference co-hosted by the International New York Times in Athens, builds on the success of the two previous forums and will explore recent dramatic developments in the regional geopolitical map of the energy sector with a focus on the business and political reality as well as the business opportunities offered by the wider region and Greece’s energy sector.

The Conference will cover the topics related to the EU’s energy strategy, the recent developments on the TAP project, the oil & gas exploration in Greece, Cyprus and Eastern Mediterranean and the new technologies, the energy finance, the renewable energy sources and the restructuring of the electricity market. The event is designed for top executives in the sectors of gas and oil exploration, exploitation and distribution, construction, electricity generation and distribution, renewable energies as well as financial groups and investment funds.

Confirmed Speakers Include:

Damian Gjiknuri

Robin Dunnigan

Alan Riley

Matthew Bryza

Toula Onoufriou

Minister of Energy and Industry, Albania

Dep. Ass. Secretary for Energy Diplomacy, State Department

Professor of Law, City Law School

Ambassador, International Centre for Defence Studies

President, Cyprus Hydrocarbons Company

Yannis Maniatis

Yuriy Vitrenko

Emily Olson

Dinos Benroubi

Michel Piguet

former Minister of Environment, Energy & Climate Change

VP & Business Development Director, Naftogaz, Ukraine

VP Communications & External Affairs, Southern Corridor, BP

Deputy CEO, Protergia

CEO, Elpedison

Panagiotis Mihalos

John Roberts

Mahmood Khaghani

Theodoros Tsakiris

Gary Lakes

former Secretary General for Intl Economic Relations, Ministry of Foreign Affairs

Energy Security Specialist

Member of Iranian Ass. for Energy Economics, Iran

Assistant Professor, University of Nicosia

Director, Energy Program, European Rim Policy & Investment Council, Cyprus

www.athensenergyforum.com

For further information: Ms. Georgia Vlachou, Tel. ++210 728 9000 | Fax ++210 729 5978 | g.vlachou@tsomokos.gr Headline Sponsors

With the Support

Co-hosted by

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Co-organized by

John Zervos recalls the elegant passenger liners, the simple fish tavernas and the smoky rembetika bars of the port city in the ’60s

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iraeus gives one an image of a tumbledown town, a gateway to the islands with a name which no one can spell that sounds like a fatal African disease.

No longer a glorious city, it is now seen more as a convenient gateway to the islands. The magnificent marble lion that once adorned the port, giving it the name Porto Leone, when the city was under Venetian rule has been replaced by a clock. (The original sculpture rests in the Arsenal of Venice, and a copy is on display at the Piraeus Archaeological Museum.)

My grandfather and father lived in Piraeus. They were involved in the production of oil essences and the manufacture of green soap.

They had built a high-rise dwelling called the Megaron Zervou on

20 insider athens | March - April 2015

Tsamadou Street, and prospered under a demographic explosion with the arrival of Greek refugees from Asia Minor, the Greco-Turkish War and the Smyrna catastrophe in 1922.

On April 6, 1941, Piraeus was bombed by the German Luftwaffe; over a hundred ships were sunk, the port and many buildings were destroyed, including the Megaro Zervou and the soap factory. It was the first German attack on Greece and a small foretaste of the horrors that lay ahead.

City Scope

Freatida 1968

the absence of electrical power hook-ups kept the super-yachts away in Vouliagmeni, far from the crowds and crowding.

Of late, many of the fish tavernas have changed into slick cafes, where Greek youth exchange information on the dernier cri on clothes, cars and carnal cavortings. Even my old favourite, The Black Goat (Mavri Gida) went down this glitzy path, and is now frequented by SUVs and sundry upscale vehicles. These are no longer the ‘Children of Piraeus’, Manos Hatzidakis’s oft-played song that was the soundtrack to the 1960s black-and-white film starring Melina Mercouri and Jules Dassin. Piraeus might still be black and white all over but the youth are technicolour, sprouting their cell phones and peppering their text messages with digi-lingo. Perhaps the Homeric heroes are gone forever, or maybe these are new heroes facing a not so brave new world.

Melina Mercouri in “Never on Sunday”

We had some shops on Gounari Street and owned an alley called Stoa Zervou. The shops were single-storey structures with basements rented out to personal businesses. One of these was a knife sharpener, another sold rice from sacks. In the 1960s I used to collect the ‘rent controlled rents’ that were paid out grudgingly in devalued drachmas.

A constant stream of boats of all sizes disgorged or ingested passengers and trucks; from the Salamina put-puts to the Cretan liners. 7 am was chaos with a lot of scheduled departures and unscheduled shouting.

Once boarded, the vessels coasted out among the cranes and cargo ships into the Saronic Gulf and beyond.

The smaller ports of Mikrolimano, also called Tourkolimano, Marina Zea and others were dotted with pleasure craft, the end result of years of tax evasion and rocketing real estate values. The stagnant water and

An area that I especially liked was called Troumba, just off the port, frequented by sailors for its night clubs, bouzouki joints and streams of prostitutes looking like characters out of a Fellini film, provocatively demonstrating their wares. It was here that rembetika music (Greek blues) flourished after hours, hearts were broken and sorrows retold in the gaudy joints. Promises were made over half-drunk glasses of retsina or bootleg whisky. ‘Opa’ (a word often used when dancing) was the byword after midnight far from silky sea and muted foghorns.

The Troumba filled a need, for noise and people and women so absent on the sea.

Greek actress Katina Paxinou was also from Piraeus, as was the painter Yannis Tsarouchis. Janis Kounellis, the sculptor, was also from Piraeus but opted to live in Italy. Politician and former Prime Minister Costas Simitis was born there in 1936, as were the noted Greek singers George Dalaras and Maria Arvanitaki.

insider athens | March - April 2015 21

City Scope Piraeus early seventies

It was something special to come from Piraeus, perhaps because of its proximity to the sea. The sea was the constant throughout antiquity, which enabled the Greeks to distinguish themselves, starting with the Battle of Salamis watched over by Xerxes high up in Thesi Avgo in Keratsini.

The Old City Hall - 1958

Piraeus late sixties

By some quirk of history, I ended up owning this famous spot known as Gouzepena, the name of the daughter of a Turkish Sultan. I trekked up there one day to claim my land and found some squatters from Karpathos still dressed in native costume and speaking in sing-song voices. They told me they had never been to Athens and they hoped that I would not ask them to leave. I never did, but as I looked out to Salamis Bay that morning I realised that I owned nothing. It was Greece that owned me.

Few passenger liners come to Piraeus from overseas any more, with the exception of the ugly multi-storied cruise boats. The SS Queen Frederica and SS Anna Maria used to make the Piraeus-New York run which took eleven days, with a brief stop in Lisbon. The SS Patris used to sail from Sydney packed with hopeful immigrants looking for a solution and a new home.

I returned from New York in 1968 on the last run of the Anna Maria.

It was a great way to travel, as your soul could catch up with the changing geography and you could enjoy each moment of movement.

In 1963 I had taken a cargo ship, the SS Hollandia, to New York. It took a month or so, stopping in Palermo, Livorno, and Genoa. I learnt to write on a 1930s Underwood, read the entire ship’s library of eight books, tasted the violent storms of the Atlantic, savoured the magic of monotony, marvelled at the flying fish, and discovered a new world within; no wonder every sailor pines to return to his ship.

Poor Piraeus. The sewage terminus of Attica, the welcome wagon for the refugees of Smyrna and numerous Anatolian disasters, the gateway to tourist dreams in the Aegean, a haven from the seas, an ugly duckling with a lion’s heart and heritage. Call it what you want, for me it is still my home. i

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Piraeus Kafenio late fifties

a luxury design hotel the Anemi Group’s new venture

opens on April 2

AthensWas Hotel, Dionysiou Areopagitou 5, 210.924.99.54, athenswas.gr

Yachting Haven, fish gourmand’s paradise or tourist trap?

Insider explores Mikrolimano, Piraeus’ most beguiling little harbour.

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Start with your walk at the rosy-stoned church, Panagias Mirditiotissis (Virgin Mary of the Myrtle), which takes its name from an ancient icon found in Kythera among burning myrtle bushes. The icon itself was hardly damaged while the rest of the area was ravaged by fire.

Many lovely frescoes, lit by golden chandeliers, line the walls and domed ceiling. Just a few minutes of watching reverent locals of all ages ritually lighting a candle before approaching the icon to kiss it is proof enough that Orthodoxy is still an integral part of Greek life.

Skounakis, whose grandfather opened O Sifis in the 1930’s, has a collection of old photographs showing the original beach front – now a little canal running in front of the Peace and Friendship Stadium (SEF), which opened in 1985. A road covering the beach was the first phase of this ambitious redevelopment. “The road was built between 1967 and 1974,” Skounakis said. “There was no democracy then: the locals weren’t consulted but no-one complained for fear they would be put in prison.” Depending on the time of day you walk beside the canal, which is lined with small craft and fishing boats (some go as far as the Cyclades for their catch), you will have different company. If it’s early there will be families with youngsters gamboling ahead. At nightfall the crowds thicken and it becomes obvious that the area is a big tourist attraction. But the visitors will always be balanced with groups of either locals or Athenians.

A few steps away is O Sifis on Divaleri Street, a landmark fish restaurant which started life as a beach taverna. Owner Kostas

In the daytime or early evening, walk over the first little canal bridge into the park. Admittedly this would benefit from more trees and

iraeus, the port city of Athens since antiquity, sprawls back from a trio of natural harbours and is a major shipping and financial centre, offering the usual big-city delights of shops, cinemas, theatres, and museums. However, if you prefer a more relaxed place, take a volta around nearby Mikrolimano, the smallest, prettiest and most popular of Piraeus’ ports.

24 insider athens | March - April 2015

City Scope

flowers but on this warm day there is shade enough for respite from the heat. When school is out the many basketball courts ring with the sounds of bouncing balls and young voices. Close by is the Bak Bak fun park where local mothers take their small children for diversion, and teenagers dodge, spin and collide with bumper cars. There is also a popular outdoor theatre in the park.

Turning right after the theatre, walk back to the mainland over a second wooden bridge where the canal becomes a yacht basin.

Turning right again, you will come to a white neoclassical villa which houses the Hellenic Offshore Racing Club (HORC). If looking at boats moored as far as the eye can see is making you want to buy one you will need a license and this is where to get it – as well as to sign up for lessons so that you can actually manage your craft. According to instructor Manos Roudas (a third-generation Piraeus resident, who is a mine of information on his native city), this is the country’s oldest and largest sailing club.

A short way along, past an incongruous partly built construction, you come to a bend in the road. We have now arrived at the harbour of Mikrolimano (small harbour), which is formerly, and is sometimes still, referred to as Turkolimano (Turkish Harbour). From before 500 B.C. when it began to be fortified, this was the ancient military port

of Munychea. It has a distinctly island feel, which shouldn’t come as a surprise as, in the distant past, Piraeus was an island, separated from the mainland by the marshes of Halipedon. At Mikrolimano, the main road becomes Akti Koumoundourou – taking the family name of one Alexandros whose restored villa stands on your left and now houses the Naval Society of Greece (NAS). The top floor is a restaurant for upmarket seaside dining, Its terrace affords the best view by the baywhere a forest of waving masts top gently rocking yachts- and the gentle rise of Kastella lies in the background.

When, in 1834, Athens was declared the country’s capital there was hardly a building left standing here. Now, there is scarcely a gap between neoclassical villas and apartment blocks as they climb higgledly- piggledly up the hillside. The rooftop terrace has a sweeping view of the sea, with Faliro beyond, and Athens to the left.

This is the perfect place to sip a cocktail and watch distant streetlights spark into the blue dusk then, as the world turns, become beacons in the black night. Down below, Joseph will be working at creating a warm ambience. “I play all kinds of music but nothing too heavy,” he said, explaining that many of the customers are couples, of all ages.

To one side of Katafigio are ranks of fish tavernas and cafes, while on the other is the seaside, with low wooden cabins for sheltered seating in all weathers. If it is a weekday afternoon, at any time of the year except a public holiday, it is possible to find solitude here. Sink into a chair to sip on an ice-cold frappe – and let your mind freewheel back to ancient times, trying to catch an echo of legions of Roman soldiers rhythmically marching towards Athens, or the shouts of marauding Vikings scrambling ashore. If though, it is evening or a public holiday, your reality will doubtless be loud chat and laughter from a happy throng.

Faced with such an array of fish tavernas how does one choose where to sit? Locals say that they are all good, although some pricier than others. At Zefiros, family-run for 60 years, owner George Panagiotou attributes their continuing popularity to the fact that the fish and seafood are always fresh – and even the salads are freshly made to order. Zorbas with its charming interior is a great setting for weddings and corporate events. But for the ultimate gastronomic experience, Varoulko Seaside with Chef Lazarou’s award-winning cuisine is quite simply the place to be, with each dish as sublime as the toe-dipping, mind-blowing setting it is located in.

Varoulko Seaside Akti Koumoundourou 52. 210.522.8400

Jimmy and The Fish Akti Mikrolimanou. 210.413.4084

Vosporos Akti Koumoundourou 20. 210.412.7324

Zefiros Akti Koumoundourou 48. 210.417.5152

Zorbas Akti Koumoundourou 14. 210.417.5152

The end of the bay, marked by the prestigious Yachting Club of Greece (YCG). Unfortunately, you need to be a member (or a member’s friend) to enter, but if you fancy a nautical atmosphere, try Exi café/ bar only a stone’s throw away. Owned by Tasos Boudouris, four-time Olympic sailing champion, Exi does a brisk trade in early breakfasts and late dinners fortifying those going to and coming from sea voyage. Customers here include Olympic medalists Ilias Hadjipaulis and George Zaimis, and manager Vaios Konstantinos says that former King Constantine dropped by recently.

So there you have it: at this tiny port, you can rub shoulders with Olympians, tourists, loved-up couples, sailors and even kings (albeit exiled ones). As local Cephalus said to the Athenian philosopher Socrates in the opening scene of Plato’s Republic, set around 420BC: “…Piraeus: you ought to come oftener.” i

insider athens | March - April 2015 25

City Scope

Nicholas Pissaris is dazzled by the treasures in the port city’s oft-overlooked Archaeological Museum

Begin your visit by viewing the large map of Piraeus in the museum’s entrance. The city came into its own when Athens decided to become a naval power at the end of the 6th Century BC. Ancient ship-sheds for triremes lined the shores of Pashalimani, the ancient Zea harbour. The fortifications, including long walls linking Athens to Piraeus, were built in the 5th Century BC after the Persian Wars; some of the fortifications remain today, while the long walls might be glimpsed in people’s basements.

The museum’s showpieces are four immense bronze statues, among the most dramatic of classical antiquity, which were discovered in 1959 near the Agia Triada Church in the middle of Piraeus during sewer excavations. They were found under heavy ash (suggesting that they had been stored in a wood crate) with broken tiles above them.

Athena

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ost visitors know Piraeus as a kind of chaotic cattle chute, a narrow gateway through which they are herded on their way to the Greek islands. They pass through oblivious to the wealth which has for aeons lain beneath this port city. Yet Piraeus, “like the toad, ugly and venomous, wears yet a precious jewel in his head” (As You Like It, by William Shakespeare), and that precious jewel is the Archeological Museum of Piraeus.

After three years of renovation, the museum reopened in 2008.

Well-lit and airy, it now does justice to its treasures, which include finds from Aegina, the Methana peninsula and even distant Kythera, all sites administered from the archeological ephorate of Piraeus.

26 insider athens | March - April 2015

The god Apollo, set on a three-step riser, dominates the room. He is 1.95 metres tall with one foot forward and the head slightly tilted.

The arms, head and genitals were cast separately and then joined to the body. The style is archaic, approximately 520 BC, although the eyes, cast with the face rather than inset, suggest a later date.

The adjoining room contains the stunning bronze statues of Athena, measuring 2.35 metres tall and two of Artemis, measuring 1.94 and 1.55 metres.

Since their discovery, these unusual statues, together with a bronze tragic mask and two marble herms, have been a mystery. What circumstances led to their being collected together and their internment? Were they going to be whisked away to Rome as spoils of war, or were they hidden in order to be saved? No-one knows.

These bronze pieces may be the highlight, but there are plenty of other delights awaiting the visitor to Piraeus’ museum. These

Piraeus archaeological museum site

include finds from the Minoan peak sanctuary on Kythera, funerary stelae from Piraeus and other parts of Attica, sculptures from the Temple of Kyvele and finds from the sanctuary of Asklepios. In addition, there are some Roman period sculptures which were dredged up from the Piraeus harbour in the 1930s; these are academic in style, but are important because they reproduce at a scale of one to one groups of figures (Greeks and Amazons) on the outside of the gold and ivory shield of Athena Parthenos by Phidias. It is thanks to these Roman sculptures that the original a xxxx can be reconstructed in some detail with some confidence.

The earliest finds are located on the first floor. A Plexiglas showcase contains artefacts from a Minoan settlement on the island of Kythera, which was the first Minoan outpost outside Crete, a stepping stone to the southern Peloponnese. The items include classic examples from a Minoan peak sanctuary. In another room, there are examples of Mycenaean pottery from Salamis (dated 1300–1150BC). Note a post-Mycenaean burial amphora with a warrior’s sword bent around the handles of the vase. The rare terracotta pieces of pottery in the forms of animals and men on horses and were used as offerings to the gods. The rendering in bronze of Zeus’ thunderbolt could be part of a contemporary art museum’s sculpture collection.

Other rooms house marble statues which, stylistically, come from Samos (6th Century BC) and were found in garbage dumps just a few decades ago. A statue of Artemis of Kinfras (4th Century BC), meanwhile, was discovered near the train station of Moschato.

Funerary monuments on the ground floor include a large marble urn, the shrine of one of Socrates’ pupils, found in Kallithea.

These marble tributes date before 315BC when the philosophical autocrat, Demetrios of Faliron, banned grand funerary monuments as a luxury no longer to be afforded; this tradition did not restart until a few centuries later.

Why should you visit this museum when Athens has so many?

Because you are being initiated into a secret treasure that few people know about; the attraction is to experience the ancient bronze masterpieces up close without the hordes who flock to the National Museum. i The Piraeus Archaeological Museum is at Harilaou Trikoupi 31, tel 210 452.1598. From the Piraeus ISAP station, it is about 15-20 minutes’ walk, and it is 10 minutes from the cruise ship terminal.

Open 8.30am – 3pm daily except Monday.

Apollo, detail from a 2nd century CE funerary relief slab

insider athens | March - April 2015 27

What started off as a small grocery store with a few tables in 1920, Vassilenas is a 95-year old culinary institution with a formidable reputation, an indelible part of Piraeus’ chequered history, a meeting point of the port city’s frequent visitors including statesmen, men of letters, actresses, directors, poets, historians and composers

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assilenas stands proud, at the same location it was 95 years ago, just off the arterial road that winds along Piraeus’ bustling port, up Aitolikou street, serving what is arguably, the best valuefor-money meal in Attica. Long the beacon for politicians, scholars and artists as well as local Peiraiotes, Vassilenas remains the preferred haunt of devotees of fine cuisine today.

In a beautifully restored old house, with high ceilings, done up in muted shades of bluish grey (apparently the colour is called duck egg blue!) and minimalist aesthetics, the restaurant is spacious and spills on to a terrace in the summer. Harking back to its former avatar as a grocery store, its walls are adorned with shelves of cans and bottles; old vats of wine vie for space with modern wine humidors, a marble sink stands proudly in a corner; the traditional and the contemporary mingling seamlessly with not a false note in place.

A private room at the back, ideal for wine tastings and small corporate events, seats upto 20. But if Vassilenas has kept hungry patrons coming back for more, for almost a century, it has been for the exquisite

28 insider athens | March - April 2015

Gastronomy

offerings of its kitchen and for the hearty welcome Mr. Vassilenass reserves for his guests.

From the good old days in the ‘20s when Vassilenas’ degustation menu boasted as many as 30 dishes, to its equally filling 11-dish menu for 35 euros today, the accent here has always been on offering an eclectic choice to pamper all palates.

The menu (which we would highly recommend, preferably on an empty stomach), comprises a creamy pumpkin soup, a porgy tartar marinated with lime, wasabi and herbs, a salmon trilogy marinated with soya sauce and grilled with a pepper crust among other equally appetizing dishes - including a succulent pork roast with prunes, pears and Schezuan pepper.

Vassilenas’ cuisine reflects the gastronomic influences and the grittiness of its sea-faring neighbourhood, ingesting traditional Greek standards with a bold, cosmopolitan edge. Not on the degustation menu, but on the a la carte one, is the crayfish carpaccio marinated in lime - a burst of freshness that plays on textures and flavours like only

an alchemist would. Again, transforming banal taverna standards such as the fava, served here with an unusual but brilliant combination of caper, raisins and ginger chutney and converting the humble chickpea, served with a poached egg, seasoned with chorizo slivers, red pepper, chives, mint and mandarin sauce into a culinary marvel requires not just imagination and skill but audacity to pull it off. Vassilenas does so without being too frilly and pretentious.

A visit to Vassilenas is not just a gastronomic journey, it is partaking a slice of history when genteel conversations between Paddy LeighFermor and Winston Churchill mingled with the poetic outbursts of Seferis and Elytis, where Sophia Loren was seduced by Carlo Ponti on her way to film Boy on a Dolphin in Hydra and where Elia Kazan and Manos Chatzidakis shared their passion for cinema, music and politics.

Vassilenas matches its cuisine with frequent wine-tastings and will be a featuring a different vineyard throughout Athens Wine Week from 1 to 8 March. i Vassilenas, Aitolikou 37, Tel: 210.461.2457, Vassilenas. gr

insider athens | March - April 2015 29

City Life

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Aptly named for a pub located right across the cruise terminal at OLP, Keg n Crew in Piraeus promises cold beer, hot food and a warm atmosphere to chill out

hen Craig Johnstone and Erene Athanasellis (not a typo, that is how she spells her name), moved to Greece from South Africa in 2008, with years of experience in the hospitality industry, they decided to set up an British pub – a friendly hangout to share stories, have a drink and tuck into some comfort food.

Open all day long, Keg n Crew hoped to draw in not just vacationers and crew members of cruise ships that call on Piraeus port but also the large expat community yearning for a friendly ‘local’ to just enjoy a beer and take in a game.

Just under a year old, Keg n Crew has already earned a loyal following of regulars and the shipping community has responded enthusiastically to this new addition to Piraeus’ social scene.

The décor here reflects the rich maritime tradition of its sea-faring neighbourhood, done up with nautical elements to give it the look and feel of a floating ship. The helm of a boat dangles off a ceiling and other marine paraphernalia abound, underlining both Keg n Crew’s unique location on the waterfront and Piraeus’ position as the maritime capital of Greece.

The atmosphere is cosy and inviting and is designed in a way to let you have the option of enjoying a drink at the bar or of sinking into one of the pub’s comfy couches. It is a great spot to just watch as large cruise ships come in to dock and to feel the movements that mark the quotidian life of a port city.

But what makes Keg n Crew even more inviting is Erene’s infectious enthusiasm. Her hands-on operating style means that she is around when her guests need her to recommend islands to visit or the best options to get around the city’s tourist spots!

Keg n Crew follow a gruelling schedule serving breakfast, in-between snacks and light meals, lunches and dinners late into the night. The cuisine combines pub standards with South African and Greek flavours and the selection of draughts and whiskies is impressive.

Every occasion seems like one worthy of raising a toast, so Keg n Crew celebrate everything from national days, to the onset of spring, ladies’ mornings, even single Valentine’s nights and the Chinese New Year! So next time you’re around Piraeus and want to have some fun, drop by at Keg n Crew, even if you do not have a reason to celebrate, they are bound to give you reason to. i Akti Miaouli 83, Piraeus. Tel: 210. 429.0396

30 insider athens | March - April 2015

Come take it nice n easy @ Mykonos

New place - same organic-farm to table philosophy Mykonos’ favourite all day healthy restaurant moves downtown from Kalo Livadi to Alefkandra in Little Venice

Tel: 22890 25421, www.niceneasy.gr, e-mail: info@niceneasy.gr insider athens | March - April 2015 31

There aren’t many hotels in the world like the Doma, the century-old establishment perched on the waterfront just east of Chania town centre. To ascend its curved steps and pass across its threshold is to enter a portal to the past, and if you are looking for a spot to reflect on Crete’s rich, turbulent history - or just a perfect place to unwind - look no further. Words and photographs by Michael Sweet

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ecorated with exquisite antique furnishings - the walls adorned with fading framed photographs, documents and objets d’art - this former diplomatic consulate is the family home of its present owners - sisters Irini ‘Rena’ Valyraki and Ioanna Koutsoudaki, and their story is inextricably linked to this special place.

Built in the late 19th century as the consulate of the Austro-Hungarian empire, it was like all consulates in Chania, located in the affluent seaside suburb of Halepa. As WWI redrew the map of Europe and the old dynasties fell, by 1918 Crete had been unified with Greece, and the building went into private hands. In 1933 the consulate and its extensive grounds was purchased by Rena and Ioanna’s grandmother.

Rena was born in the house the same year, but as war approached, the sisters’ time in their childhood home was to be short-lived.

In 1940, with Hitler’s armies on the march across Europe, the British Consul in Chania persuaded their father Kyriakos Koutsoudakis (a former employee of the company that operated the telegraph line from Crete to Alexandria connecting England with India) to lease the house to the British government.

For a year the family lived with the consul and his staff, before - on the eve of the invasion of Crete in May 1941 - they moved out, leaving their furniture and most of their precious heirlooms behind. Ioanna still remembers vividly the day the soldiers came from the sky.

Sisters Ioanna Koutsoudakis and Rena Valyraki, owners of the historic Doma Hotel

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Travel ifj Fate decided that she and her family would be at the centre of the storm. “My father had arranged for us to be taken to a village near Maleme,” says Ioanna, as we sit in the Doma’s fourth-floor dining room, with its glorious panorama looking out over the bay.

“I remember the first night of the invasion. I was very afraid, my father took me in his arms, and the next day he took us in his car to the village of Elos, south of Kissamos, in the mountains.”

When Chania fell on 27 May the victorious German paratroops took over the British Consulate to use as their command centre. Ioanna and Rena’s home would host the uninvited guests for four long years.

“We came back soon after the invasion,” says Ioanna. “I remember saying ‘who are all these strange people?’ and my mother telling me ‘it’s not our house anymore’.”

For most of the occupation the Koutsoudakis family lived not far from their requisitioned home. Like so many displaced in a town that was decimated by war, they made the best of it.

“There were ten of us in my aunt’s house. Once a German soldier gave me some chocolate, and my father told me ‘you must not take anything from those people because they are not our friends’.”

Athens saw the Germans leave in October 1944, but ‘Fortress Chania’ would remain under Nazi control until 9 May 1945. The German surrender of the town would be the final act of World War II in Europe, but not even Chania’s liberation meant the sisters could return to their home.

“The British came to my father and they said they wanted to operate the house again as their consulate,” says Ioanna. “They stayed for ten years and I hated this situation.”

It would be 1955 before the house was finally restored to its rightful owners. Ioanna went on to study in Rome’s Academy of Fine Arts.

Fluent in French and Italian, in the 1960s she began travelling - first hitch-hiking her way across Europe and then venturing to Asia. It was a road less-travelled for a young Greek woman of the time. She was married briefly - a life in the United States beckoned - but it wasn’t to be.

Rena wed a dentist. Hers was a long and happy marriage lasting 45 years.

Then in the late 1960s, Ioanna, who by now was living in Athens and running a fabric design and dressmaking business in Kolonaki, suggested they turn the old family home into a guesthouse. The idea sprang from her time in Italy when she had seen similar family homes open their doors to paying guests.

The Doma Hotel opened in December 1971, and within months word had spread of its unique charm. Soon artists, celebrities, politicians and poets were staying, drawn to the building’s story and its graceful hosts. Its reputation as one of the most elegant and distinguished hotels in Greece grew steadily.

Some guests would return each year. Many still do. One of Ioanna and Irene’s favourites was the celebrated Italian writer and poet Antonio Tabucchi, who became a lifelong friend. British military types with clipped English accents (who served in wartime Crete as secret agents) stayed too, along with their former adversaries.

Once in the 1980s, a German war veteran - a Herr Voutkas (with only one hand, remembers Rena) who had lived in the house during the

The Koutsoudakis family home in June 1941, requisitioned by the German military.

Photo Koutsoudakis collection

occupation, returned. It was only while checking-out that he summoned the courage to admit the circumstances of his previous residence.

The Doma still carries the echoes of all its histories. This is a place where the presence of its former incarnations - and those who spent time here - is everywhere.

Beyond its powerful history, perhaps it’s the glorious dining room overlooking the bay that is the most memorable experience, its walls adorned with family portraits and fading framed documents; or precious time spent in the dappled light of the serene walled garden; perhaps it’s the peaceful lounge, decked in antique rugs beside the exotic headdresses Ioanna created, - inspired by her travels, that stays with you. It’s all these things and more.

Until the late 1980s the Doma was open all year round. Today it reveals its delights only between April and November. On my last visit to Chania a sturdy lock and chain were wrapped tightly around the hotel’s elegant wrought-iron gate. Ioanna and Rena were preparing to travel to Athens, as they have done for forty years, to spend winter in their Kolonaki apartment. Like the swifts that return to their nests nearby each year, they will be back when the buds of spring arrive. As the waves break on the pebbled shore below, the Doma will wait for its genteel owners to return, to bring back their gracious hospitality and the manners of a bygone era. i Michael Sweet travelled to Crete with the assistance of Aegean Airlines.

insider athens | March - April 2015 33

Travel ifj Danylo Hawale shka steps b ack in t ime with the cacoph onous, kid-clad dancer s of Skyros

The goat dancer himself is a fearsome sight. His costume, rooted in pagan ritual, consists of a mask made from the pelt of a kid that was either stillborn or too weak to live long. The dancer, known as the yeros, or old man, soaks the mask with ouzo to drown out its stench. He wears a long-haired, hooded coat made of heavy black wool. A pillow is stuffed under his jacket to give him a hunchback’s appearance.

Goat bells, perhaps 30 in all and some as big as cantaloupes, are tied securely around his waist. With the whole outfit weighing as much as 70kg, the yeros must be powerful if he is to parade at night through the narrow streets of the island’s capital.

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e’re lost. And we know we’re lost because it’s dark out and we’ve just driven onto the military base on the Aegean island of Skyros. We make a quick U-turn, followed by a phone call to our genial host-to-be - a bon vivant by the name of Dimitris - who offers to meet us nearby and guide us down a dirt road in the proverbial middle-of-nowhere.

Soon enough we arrive at his hobbit-like hovel, disembark and shuffle toward a beacon of fluorescent light streaming from a tiny doorway.

Inside we go back in time, into a male bastion where the local menfolk congregate to escape their wives, to eat and drink in peace. And, on this night - the eve of the island’s famous Goat Dancers’ Festival marking the start of Lent - to belt out a few songs.

The ancient traditions that permeate the Goat Festival - a sort of Greek Mardi Gras - cause it to stand out among the many held in Greece during the three weeks prior to the period of fasting and prayer that ends with Easter.

34 insider athens | March - April 2015

Dimitris Mikes, 22, began wearing the clothes of the yeros when he was just five years old. In broken English, he grapples to find the words to describe what it is like to be a yeros. “You feel better,” he says, having just dressed for the evening’s festivities. Unsatisfied with his answer, he pauses before landing on the right word: “Ecstasy.”

With a series of distinctive gaits, the yeros modulates the din of the bells. Carrying a wooden staff, he travels alone or in packs of a halfdozen or more. At times the cacophony borders on the demonic.

Kendra Chapin, an American who now makes Skyros her home, says she’s never heard anything like the clanging of the bells. “It’s overwhelming,” Chapin says. “There are no words to describe the feeling. You have to experience it for yourself.”

The locals start celebrating early. On the night before the first wave of visitors arrives for the long weekend (the influx more than doubles the island’s 3,000-strong population), our host Dimitris and his buddies gather around his oblong table. There are about eight or nine men seated around it at any one time, passing around plates laden

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he goat dancer is a fearsome sight. His costume consists of a mask made from the pelt of a kid, soaked with ouzo to drown out its stench...”

with stewed rooster. A comforting fire crackles gently in one corner, warding off the chill that lingers outside in these dying days of winter.

A hefty bottle of homemade tsipouro is passed around. Religious icons and family photos share wall space with the remains of a bull’s dried, metre-long penis. This is a man’s world, after all.

One of the men launches into a soulful ballad about Smyrna (modernday Izmir in Turkey). “I love you because you’re beautiful,” he sings mournfully. “I love you because it’s you - and I love the whole world because you live in it.” The man serenades his wife with it every year on her name day. Considering that these men gather like this most nights of the week, one visitor wondered aloud, “So when do you get to see your wife?” Without missing a beat, the singer looked up from his plate and retorted: “You don’t know my wife.”

It is said that the tradition of the goat dancer started in ancient times, when a sudden and particularly severe snowstorm killed a shepherd’s entire flock. Distraught, he skinned the goats, dressing himself in some of the pelts, and he tied their bells around his waist. In mourning, he paraded through town. The next year, the townsfolk commemorated the event by recreating his walk, and thus a pagan tradition was born. Or so they say.

Today, the yeros is accompanied by the masked korela (often a man dressed as a woman wearing a traditional blouse and skirt). “She” is the wife of the yeros and trails him with the swirl of a waving kerchief.

The frangos is the third and last of the festival’s central characters.

Usually a man, he is dressed in ludicrous clothes limited only by one’s own imagination. He is known as either the fool or foreigner.

While the night remains the realm of the yeros, korela and frangos, the days belong to a couple of outrageous parades, one held on the Saturday,

the other on Sunday. Participants dress in drag, derisively portray Orthodox priests, or wear just about anything that could easily serve as an elaborate Halloween costume. The parades can be political - this year the priests were pilloried for selling land for a massive wind farm planned for the southern part of the island. Regardless of theme, the parades end up in the capital’s central square, which is crammed to the rafters with onlookers -many quite literally hanging from the rooftops.

On Clean Monday, the wildness tames, the yeros disappear, and the townsfolk don their traditional costumes, many dating back more than 100 years. They walk about the centre, and begin dancing in the square at noon. Soon, anyone can join in, and many do. The dancing goes on well into the evening.

Amanda Simpson, who breeds the rare Skyrian horse in the hamlet of Molos, marvels at the care and attention that the families put into preserving their traditions. Some of the costumes smell of mothballs, she says, an odour that makes her think of the many generations of Skyrians who have worn these clothes. Watching them all stroll through the capital, says Simpson, “You’ll feel like you’ve walked back in time.” i

Skyros is part of the Sporades archipelago that runs along Greece’s eastern coast. It is accessible by ferry or plane, although the island doesn’t exactly encourage tourism and keeps hotel development in check. That makes it all the more appealing for those visitors looking for an authentic experience, and not Disneyland.

insider athens | March - April 2015 35

With an array of Lenten treats on offer, the 40-day pre-Easter abstinence feels more like indulgence than penance. Here’s a quick Insider’s guide to learning Lenten terms and dos and don’ts

Lagana bread

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or Greeks, even fasting is all about food! In fact, it reflects the rich culinary repertoire of the country, relying heavily on seasonal veggies and the bounties of the ocean. The Lenten fast and other fasts dictated by the Orthodox calendar meant that until recently, Greeks abstained from meat for at least six months of the year – a far cry from the ‘meat-obsessed’ nation it has become today.

Galatopita

Preceding the most important festival on the Greek Orthodox calendar, Lent traditionally extends between Tsiknopempti (Smoky Thursday), when all remaining meats were grilled up for one final night of gluttony, and midnight on Easter’s Holy Saturday, when a Pascal lamb or kid was slaughtered and impaled on a spit above a slow fire for the morrow’s festivities while its entrails boiled into a soup (mageiritsa), eaten with dyed-red eggs after the Resurrection church service.

During the intervening 40 days, consumption of red meat, all meat by-products (cheese, milk, eggs) and fish with a backbone is strictly prohibited for practising Orthodox. Even olive oil and wine are rationed.

The rationale behind this strict fasting period was that the body must be cleansed, as well as the spirit, in preparation for accepting communion on Easter Day, to celebrate Christ’s resurrection from the dead.

These days, only the very devout follow the full fast, but most Greeks will refrain from eating meat on Clean Monday (the first day of Lent) and during Holy Week.

Halva

36 insider athens | March - April 2015

Nonetheless, the Lenten period heralds a cornucopia of tempting fresh salads, bean soups and stews, grilled shrimps and squid, steamed mussels, and rice and pasta dishes with seafood crowding onto the menus at restaurants and tavernas the length and breadth of the country.

Gastronomy A few Lenten foodie terms and social customs you need to know:

traditional Lenten flatbread lagana bread are enjoyed. Halva is the traditional dessert. It is customary to fly kites on this day.

Apokries: In Greece, the carnival, called ‘apokries,’ which literally

The Lenten menu is crammed with such full flavours and inspired combinations that it promises to tempt fasters and non-fasters alike to fast away. Nistissima: A term one is likely to see scrawled across most menus refers to Lent-friendly dishes that are meatless, eggless and devoid of dairy products. Sarakosti: Also a term used to describe Lenten meals (referring to the 40-day period).

translates as ‘away from meat,’ is one of the most festive times and yet one of the least known to non-Greeks. Apokries lasts three weeks and four Sundays and takes place in the period just before the 40day Lenten fast, which many Greeks still follow. There are specific foods eaten on specific days during the whole Carnival period, the whole idea being that one slowly weans oneself off meat and dairy in preparation for a long fast.

Profoni: The first week is called profoni (or the announcement), because it used to be tradition to announce the opening of the Carnival season from a high point in each village.

Kreatini: The second week of Carnival is the meat-eating week. The meat-fest of Tsiknopempti, or “sputtering” Thursday, is so called after the sizzling sound meat makes as it is grilled.

Get into the spirit of the ‘fast’ with a Lenten feast: During the Lenten period, diners who are avoiding fish will find plenty to enjoy with Lenten tables positively oozing with tastebud-tempting treats, culled from the tradition of abstention. A wealth of vegetable, grain, and seafood dishes abound and this meatless period offers the possibility to rediscover traditional recipes and cleansing customs.

Fresh from the net: Fish traditionally is not allowed, but all manner of shellfish are. Octopus, squid, and mussels are favorites, and there is a wealth of regional preparations for each, including deliciously aromatic octopus stews; squid or cuttlefish stewed with spinach; octopus cooked with short pasta; mussel pilaf; and much more. The taramosalata, freshly homemade with the finest white fish roe and virgin olive oil is a traditional appetiser during Lent as are tangy sea urchin salads with lemon and olive oil dressing.

Cooked over a stove-top: Indeed, one of the greatest legacies of the Lenten table is the array of mageirefta or ladera dishes - these include preparations such as lentil and other bean soups, chickpeas stewed with onions, garlic and olive oil, white bean and giant bean casseroles perfumed with herbs, tomatoes, and greens.

Lenten desserts: Halva is by far the most popular Lenten sweet, and in Greece it comes in many versions either with tahini (sesame paste) and sometimes studded with nuts and raisins, or marbled with chocolate. The home-cooked version is made with semolina flour, olive oil, water, sugar syrup and a sprinkling of nuts. i

Psihosavato: At the end of the second week is All-Soul’s Saturday, one of three days set aside during the start of Lent to honour the dead.

Traditionally on All-Soul’s Day, kolyva, a dish made with boiled whole wheat kernels and decorated with pomegranate seeds, black currants, sugar, nuts and spices, is offered at the graves of the dead.

Tirini (also known as macaroni): During the last week of Carnival, traditionally, meat is almost never eaten. Instead, tables are laden with cheese and milk and eggs. Tiropita, or cheese pie, galatopita, or milk pie, creamy rice puddings and galaktoboureko are the dishes Greeks indulge in. The last festivities of the carnival period culminate on that last Sunday, Tyrofagis Kyriaki (or Cheese Sunday), just before the start of Lent. Sometimes, the very last thing to be eaten is an egg, the first food with which the Lenten fast is broken 40 days later.

Kathara Deftera: Clean Monday marks the beginning of Lent and the foods consumed on this day contain ‘no blood’. Instead salads, fresh and pickled vegetables (tursi), shellfish, octopus, squid and the

Taramosalata

insider athens | March - April 2015 37

Photo © Kostas Bekas

Dourampeis Oyster, the new seafood restaurant at Neo Psychico promises a whiff of ocean spray with its fresh oyster platters and array of exquisite fish and seafood dishes

Photo © Kostas Bekas

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ourampeis Oyster on Adrianniou in Neo Psychico might be a few kilometres away from the Piraeus neighbourhood of its flagship restaurant, now in its 83rd year, but retains the same passion for the bounties of the ocean while aiming for a new level of sophistication. Done up in clean, fluid lines, reminiscent of a luxurious yacht, the restaurant is fronted by an ice-filled case of gleaming whole fish, shrimps, crabs, clams, mussels and prized oysters. Caramel leather banquettes provide a warm accent; while its high ceilings, designer lights and intricate wall sculptures in wood suggest a touch of nautical whimsy.

But the star here are the briny oysters that come on ice with a tray of accompaniments - lemon, cocktail sauce, mignonette, and Tabasco - in miniature vessels. Léon-Paul Fargue famously said that eating an oyster was ‘like kissing the sea on the lips’ and that is exactly the sensation one has – a pure sensual delight that excites the palate, and the mind, in a way other shellfish don’t. For all you oyster fans out there, Dourampeis

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Oyster has a designated bar area designed to savour fresh oysters from around Greece and from Cancale, the town in Brittany often referred to as the oyster capital of France.

Experts opine that an oyster should smell of the seashore as the tide recedes over seaweed-covered rocks, it should be full in the shell, firm in texture, and brimming with the natural juice that is its life blood, not just sea water; its heel should be a creamy or ivory colour, the frill should be moist and pulsating, and the oyster should always look bright.

Priced at around 5 euros each, they make for a great way to start off the evening with a chilled bubbly or Chardonnay.

“But the key to a good oyster is freshness. As it is for fish and other shellfish. My father used to say, ‘it’s better tell a customer that we have run out of fish than to serve him day-old fare.’ And it is something we follow religiously,” Yiorgos Dourampeis, the owner informs us.

Restaurant Review

Photo © Mihalis Zorgias

Photo © Mihalis Zorgias

Photo © Mihalis Zorgias

Photo © Mihalis Zorgias

The menu here is sprinkled with delights from the sea – start off with the taramosalata, often an accurate barometer of the meal to follow. In this case, its creamy texture hits just the right notes of acidity and sharpness, nailing it. Follow it with a sublimely seasoned tuna carpaccio or opt for a stronger, brinier alternative, marinated anchovies – a favourite of regulars.

lemon to augment the fish. Seasonal vegetables are served on the side.

The focus is entirely on the bream, and it is sublime in its simplicity.

The recipes here follow those handed down from Yiorgos’ grandparents who launched the original Dourampeis, so the shrimp saganaki here is not just a red hot mess but a delectable composition of plump shrimps ingesting the sweetness of sun-kissed tomatoes and letting the feta just melt into the sauce to lend it its unique texture. Other regional specialties include Steria (Gold blotter grouper) or Skorpio (scaled scorpion fish) in a red sauce with spicy peppers, onion and garlic prepared in the Corfiot bourdeto style.

To end on a sweet note, tuck into the absolutely succulent loukoumades, crunchy on the outside, soft inside and glazed with honey. Another inspired dessert is vanilla ice-cream with a strawberry reduction on a bed of meringue - it looks impressive but is exquisitely light and luxurious, a perfect ending to a handsome meal.

If its grilled sea bream you are looking for, there is nothing to distract from the star of the show beyond olive oil, lemon, and herbs. Herbs are snipped on top, and there is but a drizzle of olive oil and a squeeze of

The restaurant is used to receiving requests from their regulars, often a couple of days ahead of their visit for a particular fish, cooked just so - and the staff indulge them, and therein lies the secret to keep them coming back!

But beside the food, the big draw here is the service, which is attentive yet discreet. Yiorgos Dourampeis brings his innate sense of filoxenia to the table, greeting his guests – from celebs to business heavyweights – with genuine warmth. Hospitality as it should be! i Dourampeis Oyster, Andriannou 37, N.Psychico. Tel: 210.671.0100

insider athens | March - April 2015 39

City Life

Celebrate St. Patrick’s Day with green silliness and endless pints of beer at two of the city’s iconic Irish pubs: Molly Malone’s in Glyfada and the James Joyce in Thissio

MOLLY MALONE’S

THE JAMES JOYCE

When Mike Kennings moved to Greece in 2003 there were simply no pubs to nurse a pint in. And that is how Molly Malone’s was born 11 years ago to fulfil one man’s need and in the bargain, quench the thirst of a grateful community!

A partnership between Mike Kennings and Tom Cameron, The James Joyce has been around for seven years. Located in the touristic neighbourhood of Thissio, it is a regular pit-stop for visitors. Done up in dark wood, its long bar and warm, welcoming environment evoke images of the great old pubs of Ireland while its music and its choice of cuisine and drinks lends it a more contemporary vibe.

Walking into Molly Malone’s feels like you’ve momentarily stepped into another world – the accents here are a blend of Irish, Scottish and even Livipudian, the atmosphere is very much like a pub back home – beer collectibles and vintage posters clutter the walls, leather travel cases jostle for space with old bottles, football club crests and quirky signage that coax you to ‘Save Water, Drink Beer.’ Irish street signs touch on a nostalgic note and its large mirrors lend it airiness and character. A wooden stairway leads to the floor above where burgundy Chesterfield sofas invite you to sink right in offering an enviable view of lemon tree-tops and the street below. The pub spills on to an outdoor terrace, great to soak in some winter sun. The mood here is always convivial and regulars know each other by their first-names.

While Molly Malone offers an extensive range of beers on tap and a selection of whiskies to make any Irishman proud, it also serves some hearty fare from Irish fish pies, Scotch eggs, traditional steak and Guinness pies and even, Irish soda bread to accompany soups and salads.

Large screens mean that you can take in a game of football too!

Molly Malone’s Irish Pub, Yannitsopoulou 8,Glyfada Tel: 210 894.4247.

Opening hours: Sunday to Thursday: 10am to 1pm, Friday & Saturday: 10am to 3pm

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The menu here is quite versatile serving Irish standards such as sausages and mash to fish and chips but it also inspired by local Mediterranean flavours to include grilled haloumi and the JJ’s own interpretation of the Greek salad. The pub prides itself in its draught beers - and Tom claims ‘that they are undoubtedly the best in town as our Irish management ensures that our products are stored and poured to the highest standards.’ He adds, ‘We have the largest selection of Irish whiskies and also a great range of world whiskies and spirits.’

With carnival parties and St. Patrick’s Day coming up, the pub is gearing itself for fun-filled evenings that stretch into the wee hours of the morning. While the crowd here is more itinerant, the ambience isn’t any less convivial. The spirit here is that ‘it’s a place where there are no strangers, only friends you haven’t met.’ i The James Joyce’s Irish Pub, Astiggos 12, Thissio. Tel: 210 323.5055.

Opening hours: Sunday to Thursday: 10am to 1pm, Friday & Saturday: 10am to 3pm

Mad Greek Dictionary

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John Carr and Paul Anastasis follow up on their original Mad Greek Dictionary, Your Eyes Fourteen, with a rib-ticklingly funny guide to learning Greek through its quirky, colourful, idioms – The Insider’s Guide to Greekisms. Illustrations by Iason Iliades.

T

his book, published by Insider Publications (out in spring 2015), is a glance into the colourful world of modern Greek idiolects, a form of linguistic communication indigenous to any given nation that employs vivid figurative language to illustrate its point.

Greek is especially rich in idiolectic expressions. Some of these expressions may seem crude to the genteel eye and ear, even verboten in a politically correct sense. But the Greeks have never been, and never will be, Puritan Protestants. In their vernacular the risqué and the divine often intermingle, sometimes with startling results.

The expressions are divided into seven broad categories according to their main subject: people and human relations; body parts and sex; animals, plants and food; weather and nature; life experiences; historical memory; and the other world. Insider will carry excerpts from the book throughout 2015. Here is Part 3 in a series of 7.

Of the madwoman

Losing oil (Χανω λαδια) (Hano ladia) slow on the uptake A bikers’ expression signifying someone on another wavelength, i.e. aging parents.

Asking for change (Ζηταω και ρεστα) (Zitao kai resta) adding insult to injury; wanting undeserved benefit The “change” (in the monetary sense) is to demand more than is due in a social situation, or insist on a wrong position. The image is of someone making a payment and then holding the hand out for change to which he or she is unentitled. After a family or traffic-light argument, for example, the person in the wrong and refusing to admit it would be seen as “asking for change.”

(Της τρελλής) (Tis trellis) chaos, uproar

Being an eggshell

This is a socially polite version of the whore (q.v.). Yet both are effective in portraying a sense of disorder or discredit, and equally commonly used. A screeching madwoman would not be the quietest or most circumspect of human beings, hence her house (indicated by the genitive “of”) would be prone to a certain chaos.

Radio face (Φατσα για ραδιοφωνο) (Fatsa gia radiophono) unattractive With the television industry’s preference for pretty faces, anyone not thus favoured had better make a career in radio.

Sitting VIP

(Ειναι τσοφλι) (Einai tsofli) being an idiot This is a youth usage of the early 21st century, highly evocative of an empty head and overly fragile one at that, something easily crushable.

One’s head a cauldron (Το κεφάλι καζάνι) (To kefali kazani) giddy from overwork or too much noise A cauldron full of water is heavy, and the water boils when heated, which is an accurate description of one’s head when fatigued or being on the receiving end of the wife’s harangue.

(Καθομαι Βιπ) (Kathomai Vip) sitting in the back seat

Cutting one’s brain

The Greeks are wryly familiar with the view of important people sitting in the backs of their limousines, an image which the average Greek youth wants to shun, hence the sarcastic tone. (Given the way Greek youths drive, the back seat could be a wise choice for a passenger, though there is a risk of being scorned for cowardice.)

The use of the verb to cut to denote enlightenment is associated with the sense of sharpness, as in a piercing beam of light entering the head. The ancient Greek word for keenness of mind, oxyderkeia, contains the word for sharp. The phrase is most often employed in the negative sense, as in it doesn’t cut him (δεν του κόβει) (dhen tou kovei), meaning that the said head is too thick for anything to penetrate it. i

(Μου κόβει tο μυαλό) (Mou kovei to myalo) becoming aware of something; seeing the light

insider athens | March - April 2015 41

Valmont’s Expert of Light range literally gets under ones skin to iron out any imperfections

Expert of Light is the new high-end range of Valmont treatment products for skin whitening and even-toned complexion.

Today addressing age spots and dull complexion is the new challenge in cosmetics, after the wrinkles.

Clearly inspired by the beauty standards of Asia where a porcelain-like skin has been considered for ages as the feminine ideal, the demand for a glowing and even complexion is now widely shared by Caucasian skins too.

Hyper pigmentation problems concern not only mature skins affected by age and dark spots but also affect young complexions that suffer from dullness and imperfections.

The combination of sebum-prone skin with sun exposure creates an oxidative phenomenon at the surface of the skin which cannot reflect any more the light and result in dullness, clogged pores and pimples.

The original active principle in Valmont Expert of Light product is the combination of the anti-age HP DNA molecule with zinc ions. Zinc is well-known for its soothing, anti-inflammatory properties while it also fights melanogenesis and regulates sebum. Coupled with two other ingredients, niacinamide, a melanin transfer blocker and hexylresorcinol, a melanine production inhibitor, the powerful complex achieves

42 insider athens | March - April 2015

Special Promotion

a complete anti-age, soothing action on the skin together with a brightening and smoothing-out effect.

Expert of light comes out with a comprehensive range of 8 products which follow 3 steps of actions:

Illuminating steps: • Illuminating foamer is a creamy iridescent cleansing gel that gently purifies the skin -100ml tube, retail price 65€ • Illuminating toner is a gentle and gradual exfoliating lotion for smooth and radiant skin day after day, 125ml pump bottle, retail price 65€

Whitening and brightening skin care: • Clarifying Pack, a brightening mask which acts as a biological exfoliator to eliminate impurities that dull the complexion- 50ml jar, retail price 165€ • Clarifying touch, for local use, with just a click this brush lets you precisely apply a complex of ingredients specially designed to gradually reduce age spots and imperfections, 95€ • Clarifying infusion, a powerful ultraconcentrated serum that instantly penetrates into the skin to deliver all the power of the clarifying and illuminating complex- 30ml airless, retail price 255€

• Clarifying surge, a cream with generous texture that promotes a clear, even-toned and stunning complexion day or night-50ml jar, retail price 235€

Protective sun-care: Since most of pigment imperfections are due to sun exposure, Expert of Light provides 2 customized solutions to shield the skin from the harmful effects of UVA & UVB rays • Urban Radiance SPF 20 PA+++, a fine emulsion offering perfect protection for daily use, 30ml airless, retail price 195€ • Urban Radiance SPF 50 PA+++, a rich and highly protective cream perfect for urban environments, 30ml airless, retail price 195€ For the spa, the new Valmont signature ritual is “Brightness of Ice”, an overall anti-aging 1H-treatment for a new, refined, smoothedout and brightened skin.

Inspired by Asian care rituals, this treatment doubles each phase of care to achieve entirely new synergies between the gesture and the product. Twice the cleansing, twice the massage, twice the mask… a state-ofthe-art program for a complexion as pure and clear as ice. This professional treatment uses products from the Expert of Light line as well as exclusive product combinations to give the skin back its youthful and radiant appearance. i

insider athens | March - April 2015 43

Insider guide refer to corresponding area for more information and contact details

restaurant index by type AMERICAN JACKSON HALL Kolonaki TGI FRIDAY’S Kolonaki

ASIAN Golden Phoenix Kifissia Keep Woking Glyfada Noodle Bar Syntagma NUI Kifissia Wagamama Maroussi

BAR - RESTAURANTS 42 bar Syntagma Apsendi Halandri BACARO Omonia BALTHAZAR Mavili Sq BARAONDA Mavili Sq Café Zoe Syngrou CASH Kifissia CINCO Kolonaki CV Bar Keramikos Dirty Ginger Gazi En Plo Vouliagmeni Bar Explorer’s Lounge Syntagma Gazarte Gazi GINGER Mavili Sq Hoxton Bar Gazi ISLAND Vouliagmeni KITCHEN BAR Faliro KITCHEN BAR Halandri MAMACAS Gazi Minnie the Moocher Kolonaki MoMix Gazi NIXON Kerameikos OSTERMAN Syntagma PARKO ELEFTHERIAS Mavili Sq PIXI Gazi.

SEMIRAMIS RESTAURANT Kifissia SHOWROOM Kolonaki Socialista Gazi Sofa Bar Vouliagmeni Step by step Halandri The James Joyce irish bar, Thissio

CHINESE China’s Fantasy Psychico Saipan Halandri

FISH RESTAURANTS Ai Nikolas Syngrou CAPTAIN JOHN’S Piraeus ITHAKI Vouliagmeni JIMMY AND THE FISH Piraeus KASTELORIZO Kifissia MILOS Hilton MYTHOS OF THE SEA Vouliagmeni Ocean Basket Glyfada PAPADAKIS Kolonaki Psaroma Halandri THALATTA Gazi TO 25ARAKI Glyfada ZEFYROS Piraeus

FISH TAVERNAS Almyra Halandri DOURAMBEIS Piraeus Fish Co. Platters Psychico

Ichthyes Kifissia KOLLIAS Piraeus RAFALE Vouliagmeni Piperia Psychico PSARAKI Vouliagmeni Sardelaki Glyfada Trata Omonia TRATA O STELIOS Pangrati VASSILENAS Piraeus

FRENCH Gaspar Food and Mood Psychico L’ABREUVOIR Kolonaki LE PETIT SOMMELIER Faliro MONO WINE RESTAURANT Plaka SPONDI Pangrati

GOURMET ALERIA Kerameikos AVENUE Syngrou Bo Botrini’s Halandri KUZINA Thissio Fuga Mavili Sq Funky Gourmet Kerameikos F+W Kolonaki GALAZIA HYTRA Vouliagmeni HYTRA Syngrou KOOL LIFE Kifissia Orizontes Lycavyttou Kolonaki P-Box Kolonaki Polly Magoo Metaxurgeio PremiEre Syngrou VAROULKO Kerameikos

GREEK 2 MAZI Plaka 310 Street Psychico Archeon Gefsis Metaxurgeio ATHIRI Kerameikos ATRIUM Acropolis Berdema Kifissia Bluefield Burger Psychico CUCINA POVERA Pangrati Dioskouroi Psychico DIPORTO Psyrri ELAIS GI Kifissia ELIAS KOUKOUTSI Voula IDEAL Omonia KAVOURAS Exarhia Krithamos Psychico MANI MANI Acropolis MELILOTOS Monastiraki PSOMI & ALATI Halandri RAKOKAZANO Halandri Rena tis Ftelias Psychico Peacock Syngrou PROSOPA Gazi TO KOUTI Monastiraki YANTES Exarhia YDRIA Plaka

GRILL 1920 Halandri Meat Square Glyfada Meat Square Halandri Meatropoleos 3 Syntagma Telemachos Barbeque Club Kifissia

44 insider athens | March - April 2015

INDIAN BOLLYWOOD Gazi Indian Kitchen Syntagma Indian Masala Thissio JAIPUR PALACE Kifissia KOHENOOR Gazi

INTERNATIONAL Ache Glyfada AMANDINE’S Syndagma CHEFI’S Halandri Food Mafia Glyfada Gefsis Me Onomasia Proelefsis Kifissia

ITALIAN 30 SOMETHING Halandri AGLIO OLIO Acropolis AL BACIO Vouliagmeni Albion Psychico Al Dente Glyfada AL FRESCO Vouliagmeni Aperitivo Glyfada BOSCHETTO Kolonaki CANTUCCIO Psyrri CAPANNA Psyrri DA BRUNO Faliro DA VINCI Ag. Paraskevi di Antonio Halandri DULCIS IN FUNDO Voula GENOVESE Voula Il Salotto Glyfada Il Salumaio Kifissia Il Tinello Faliro IL TRAMONTO Vouliagmeni Capanna Kolonaki LA CASA DI GIORGINO Gyfada MANGIAMO BY MEAT SQUARE Kifissia Matilde Pizza Bar Psychico Nanninela Ag. Paraskevi Ombra Psychico Pausa Maroussi Sale Bianco da Salvotoro Glyfada SALE E PEPE Kolonaki SCALA VINOTECA Kolonaki SILVER Casa Vouliagmeni TONY BONANO Piraeus Tutti a tavola, Kolonaki VEZENE Hilton VINCENZO Glyfada

JAPANESE FURIN KAZAN Syntagma Hama Glyfada INBI Kolonaki KIKU Kolonaki MATSUHISA ATHENS Vouliagmeni li-li-shu Kolonaki

KOREAN Dosirak Syntagma

KOSHER Gostijo Psyrri

LEBANESE BEIRUT Glyfada NARA NARA Psyrri NARGILE Kifissia

MEDITERRANEAN Alatsi Hilton BAKU Vouliagmeni BERDEMA Kifisia BYZANTINO Hilton CAFE AVYSSINIAS Monastiraki Common Secret Kifissia EX ANATOLIS Halandri DAPHNE’S RESTAURANT Plaka FATSIO Pangrati GB CORNER Syntagma HYTRA Plaka IDEAL RESTAURANT Omonia KOUZINA CINE-PSIRRI Psyrri LEILIMLEI Gyzi MALABAR Vouliagmeni MAVRO PROVATO Pangrati Mimaya Glyfada Mushroom Glyfada MUTFAK Glyfada OCHRE & BROWN Psyrri PARLIAMENT Syntagma PRYTANEION Kolonaki RATKA Kolonaki STOU MEIDANI Monastiraki TO KOUTI Monastiraki TORTUGA Pangrati TRAPEZARIA Pangrati VOSPOROS Piraeus ZORBAS Piraeus

MEXICAN AMIGOS Glyfada DOS HERMANOS Kifissia EL TACO BUENO Maroussi Santa Fe Halandri

MEZEDES AND OUZO Antaios Psychico ATHINAIKON Omonia KIRKI Thissio OUZADIKO Kolonaki SCHOLARHEIO Plaka

MULTI ETHNIC Altamira Kolonaki

PERSIAN ANAHITA Halandri

POLYNESIAN LEDRA KAI Syngrou

SOUVLAKIA AND KEBAB BAIRAKTARIS Monastiraki BUTCHER’S SHOP Gazi DREAM GRILL Voula Gourounakia Kifissias Kifissia KALAMAKI KOLONAKI Kolonaki Kebabtzidikon Barbadimos Nea Smyrni Kebabtzidikon To Gnission Voula Kebabtzidikon Kyr. Ariston Faliro NAIADES Voula SAVVAS Monastiraki SCHARA Vouliagmeni Souvlaki Bar Thissio THANASSIS Monastiraki

SCANDINAVIAN SAFKA Kerameikos

SPANISH JAMON PINTXOS BAR Glyfada SALERO Exarhia

SUSHI Koi Syntagma Koi Voula Yoko Sushi & Bento Kolonaki Suba Kolonaki Tomoe Kifissia Sushi Bar (The) Pangrati

TAVERNAS FILIPOU Kolonaki LOUIZIDIS Vouliagmeni O Tzitzikas Ki O Mermigas Kifissia, Syntagma VLASSIS Hilton

THAI ANDAMAN Athens BLUE BAMBOO Athens ROUAN THAI Piraeus ROYAL THAI Kifissia TAMARIND Metaxurgeio

TURKISH

PUB RESTAURANTS

Mutfak Glyfada

MOLLY MALONE’S Glyfada

VEGETARIAN

RETRO Aneton Maroussi

ROOFTOP DINING ELECTRA Plaka IOANNIS Syntagma LE GRAND BALCON Kolonaki ORIZONTES LYKAVYTTOU Kolonaki ST’ASTRA Mavili Sq

RUSSIAN Barin Glyfada

Avocado Syntagma Giouvetsakia Glyfada NICE N EASY Kolonaki Rosebud Kolonaki

WINE BARS FABRICA DE VINO Exarhia HETEROCLITO Syntagma Kiki’s de Grece Syntagma L’Enoteca Halandri OINOSCENT Syntagma Vinifera Kifissia Vrettos Plaka Whispers of wine Maroussi VINARTE Glyfada

Acropolis Gifts Greece is for Lovers 50 - 52 Valtetsiou Str. Tel: 210.924.5064 www.greeceisforlovers.com Tongue-in-cheek souvenirs for the discerning traveller

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr

Marie Chantal Boutique

Ermenegildo Zegna

Rere Papa

Spefsippou 11, Tel: 210.722.2029 Old-fashioned chic for little princes and princesses

Skoufa 18, Tel: 210.361.3700 Home of fine fabrics and handsome tailor-finished suits

Skoufa 62, Tel: 210.364.4300 Distinctive creations by two young Greek women and other international imports

Mouyer

Voukourestiou 50 Tel: 210.364.1308 A haven of hip, carrying labels from Balenciaga to Martin Margiela to Marlene Birger

Kanari 8, Tel: 210.361.7714 Good-quality orthopaedic shoes as well as funkier styles

Free Shop

Skoufa 10 Tel: 210.362.2326 Designer homeware and accessories

Vlassis Holevas

Syllektiko Paleopolio

Anagnostopoulou 19, Tel: 210.361.6167 Elegant fashion with a contemporary twist

Asklipiou 41, Tel: 210.364.1718 Antiques of all sorts and restoration services

Flowers

Vinyl Microstore

Yesterday's Bread

Kallidromiou 87-89, Tel: 210.881.1233 Imported second-hand clothes; individuality guaranteed

Kolonaki Antiques Kilim Hali Valaoritou 9, Tel: 210.363.7056 www.kilimhali.gr Antique carpets from around the world

Beauty &Cosmetics Apivita Solonos 6, Tel: 210.364.0560 Shop natural Greek cosmetics, get a prescription cream made up and have a quick massage

Harnn Shop Irakleitou 15, Tel: 210.364.5428 Beautifully packaged skincare and homespa products

Fleria Bespoke Athens

Fashion

Kalogirou

Atelier Loukia

Patriarchou Ioakim 4, Tel: 210.335.6401 Fetish footwear from Prada, Tod's & Casadei

Kanari 24, Tel: 210.362.7334 Fairytale dresses in lace and embroidery from Greece's doyenne designer

Lacoste

Bespoke Athens

Solonos 5, Tel: 210.361.8030 French take on American sportswear

Anagnostopoulou 15-17 Tel: 210.364.5518, Made-to-measure suits and shirts from top international tailors

Iraklitou 9, Tel: 210.360.8315 Alber Elbaz's gloriously chic take on the classic French couture house

Boss Store

Lanvin

Linea Piu

Carouzos

Sekeri 6, Tel: 210 360.6125 Collections from exclusive fashion houses including Chanel, Galliano, Lagerfeld and Sonia Rykiel

Kanari 12, Tel: 210.362.7123 Designer items from Prada, Brioni, Donna Karan, Fendi and other top-flight brands

Skoufa 15, Tel: 210.363.5600 Designer emporium stocked with Chloe, Roberto Cavalli, Ralph Lauren, Missoni & more

Amerikis 19, Tel: 210.338.9080 Smart separates for a work wardrobe

Luisa

Deux Hommes

Marc by Marc Jacobs

Kanari 18, Tel: 210.361.4155 Greece's design ambassadors create structural separates and heavenly bridal gowns. www.deuxhommes.gr

Observatory Attitudes

Dior Boutique Voukourestiou 18-20, Tel: 210 361.3014 High-end designer fashion

Xanthou 3, Tel: 210.363.6030 Budget knick-knacks and must-have casuals from America's fashion hero

Paul & Shark

Jack in the Box

Anagnostopoulou 6, Tel: 210.339.2334 Casual yachting styles

Haritos 13, Tel: 210.725.8735 Beautiful wooden toys and more

Elina Lebessi

Preview

Iraklitou 13, Tel: 210.363.1731 Ethereal frocks, pretty tea-dresses and accessories from around the world

Patriarchou Ioakim 19, Tel: 210.722.4731 High fashion designer shoes

DKNY

Patriarchou Ioakim 35, Tel: 210.722.9697

Food & Wine Cava Anthidis Ypsilantou 13-15, Tel: 210.725.1050 Comprehensive wine and liquor wholesalers

Kylix Karneadou 20, Tel: 210.724.5143 Quality picks from the world’s best vineyards; including Greek labels

Wine Garage Xenokratous 25, Tel: 210.721.3175 Browser-friendly cava with helpful service

Gadgets Octopus Solonos 15, Tel: 210.363 6677 Quirky designs with a sense of humour

Gifts Benaki Museum Gift Shop Vas. Sofias & Koumbari Tel: 210.367.1045 Artefacts and jewellery inspired by the museum’s exhibits

Solonos 9, Tel: 210.364.6910 The ultimate fashion store www.attitudes.gr

Solonos 8, Tel: 210.360.3775 Classic American sportswear

Children

Patriarchou Ioakim 30-32 Tel: 210.725.8525 Original silk designs for scarves, ties, shawls & blouses

The Tsitouras Collection

Exarhia

Didotou 34, Tel: 210.361.4544 New vinyls & cds; also reissues from the 60s & more

Thalassa Collection

Ilias Lalaounis museum

Central Athens

Insider guide Shop

insider athens | March - April 2015 45

Insider guide Shop

Liana Vourakis

Oxette

Anagnostopoulou 26-28, Tel. 2103617705

Skoufa 37, Tel: 210.339.0547 Trendy, affordable jewellery

Home

Ozzi Skoufa 30, Tel: 210.364.2139 Greek silver fashion jewellery

Christofle

Van Cleef & Arpels

Koumbari 5, Tel: 210.362.0483 Classis silver and crystal ideal for wedding gifts

Voukourestiou 1, Tel: 210.331.0319 The jeweller of the international jetset

La Fenetre Irodotou 21, Tel: 210.723.5029 Elegant objects and sophisticated gifts for the house, mostly from France

Parousiasi Patriarchou Ioakim 33, Tel: 210.723.7656, A range of international brands in crystal, china and other eye-catching homeware accessories

Jewellery Apriati Pindarou 29, Tel: 210.360.7878 Smartly designed necklaces, bracelets and rings

Elena Votsi Xanthou 7, Tel: 210.360.0936 Conversation-starting pieces in gold and stone

Fanourakis Patriarchou Ioakim 23 Tel: 210.721.1762, Unique collection of animal and insect pins & earrings

Folli Follie Tsakalof 6 & Solonos 25 Tel: 210.323.0739 Greece's high-street export stocks affordable watches and everyday bijoux

Monastiraki Antiques Darousos Normanou 7, Tel: 210.331.1638 Small antique shop in the heart of the flea market

Paleovivliopolio Hiotakis Normanou 7, Tel: 210.324.7835 Historic bookshop houses rare & old books

Food & Wine DELICATESSEN Arapian Evripidou 41, Tel: 210.321.7238 Old-style butcher shop offers interesting sausages, pasturma & smoked meats

Bahar Evripidou 31, Tel: 210.321.7225 Well-known herb haven

Miran Evripidou 45, Tel: 210.321.7187 Sausages, pastrami & cured meats

Pangrati BEAUTY & COSMETICS

Liana Vourakis

Korres

Anagnostopoulou 26-8 Tel: 210.362.2564 For unique baptism and wedding gifts, start here

Ivikou 8 & Eratosthenous Tel: 210.722.2774 Natural Greek products made using Mediterranean herbs

46 insider athens | March - April 2015

Plaka

Syntagma

Antique stores

Accessories

Martinos Pandrosou 50, Tel: 210.321.2414 Specializes in 19th Century folk art, embroidery & furniture

Food & wine

Bag Stories Panepistimiou 41, Tel: 210.323.7405 Luggage & travel bags by Tumi, Porsche Design, Rimowa & Delsey

Antiques Antiqua

Mesogaia Nikis 52, Tel: 210.322.9146 Packaged & fresh speciality foods

Vassilis Amalias 2-4, Tel: 210.323.2220 One of the oldest antique stores in Athens

Gifts

Beauty & Cosmetics

Amorgos

Fresh Line

Kodrou 3, Tel: 210.324.3836 Hand-carved & painted furniture

Ermou 30, Tel: 210.324.6500 Fresh organic cosmetics from Greece

Psyrri

Ermou 44, Tel: 210.325.8260 International cosmetic brand for women who like to play with colour

Fashion Christoforos Kotentos Sachtouri 3, Tel: 210.325.5434 Glamorous & unique designs

Home Notoshome Kratinou 5, Tel: 210.374.3000 Home dĂŠcor superstore

MAC

Books Eleftheroudakis Panepistimiou 17, Tel: 210.325.8440 The largest foreign language bookstore in Greece

Department Stores attica Panepistimiou 9, Tel: 211.180.2600 Home to an array of luxury goods

Fokas Stadiou 41, Tel: 210.325.7770 Clothes, shoes and accessories for men, women & children

Fashion - Men’s Pagoni Akadimias 61, Tel: 210.363.9277 Selling ties and cufflinks since 1933

Shop Voulis 15, Tel: 210.323.2321 Specializing in arrangements with wild flowers, many indigenous to Greece

Gofas Stadiou 3, Tel: 210.331.7540 High-end timepieces

Ilias Lalaounis

Food & Wine

Panepistimiou 6, Tel: 210.361.1371 Fabulous gold designs by famous Greek jeweller

Aristokratikon

Kessaris

Karageorgi Servas 9, Tel: 210.322.0546 Handmade chocolates

Marathianakis

Cellier Kriezotou 1, Tel: 210.361.0040 Speciality wine shop

Gadgets Public Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.324.6210, Five floors of gaming, gadgets & books

Gifts Graf Von Faber-Castell Boutique

Panepistimiou 7, Tel: 210.323.2919 Wide range of luxury brand timepieces Voukourestiou 21, Tel: 210.362.7118 Old-world shop known for its original & elegant designs

Omega Omega, the brand of James Bond and Nicole Kidman, has its own elegant boutique on Voukourestiou showcasing the brand’s collections Voukourestiou 2, Tel: 210.322.7682

Pentheroudakis Voukourestiou 19, Tel: 210.361.3187 Timeless pieces inspired by classical Greek design

Panepistimiou 41, Tel: 210.321.8564 Traditional hand-held writing utensils

Kori Mitropoleos 13, Tel: 210.323.3534 Traditional & contemporary jewellery

Psarros 1917 Stadiou 3, Tel: 210.322.0908 Executive gifts and smoking accessories

Home Baccarat Voukourestiou 21, Tel: 210.362.2863 Fine crystal from the venerable French luxury house

Jewellery Apriati Pentelis 9 & Mitropoleos, Tel: 210.322.9020 Smartly designed necklaces, bracelets and rings

Bulgari Voukourestiou 8, Tel: 210.324.7118 Opulent designs in jewellery, watches & accessories

Cartier Voukourestiou 7, Tel: 210.331.3600 Two floors of designs & timepieces by the prestigious Cartier maison

Chopard Stadiou 2 & Vas. Georgiou 210.325.0555Legendary time pieces and jewellery.

Folli Follie

Zayiana

Zolotas Panepistimiou 10, Tel: 210.360.1272 Designs inspired by the antique & classical periods as well as contemporary collections by designers like Paloma Picasso www.zolotas.gr

Shoes Spiliopoulos Ermou 63, Tel: 210.322.7590 Pick up a pair of Manolo’s at half price!

Vassilis Zoulias Old Athens Akadimias 4, Tel: 210.361.4762 Handmade shoes and handbags inspired by films of the 50s & 60s

Glyfada Fashion Enny di Monaco Laodikis 41, Tel: 210.894.0153 Carefully selected designs by various international designers

Obervatory Attitudes A. Panagouli 17, Tel: 210.894.2113 The ultimate fashion store www.attitudes.gr

Saltwater Astir Beach, Vouliagmeni 210.894.0813 Designer beach and resortwear

Zayiana

Northern Athens

Dromoloulouda

Ermou 18, Tel: 210.323.0739 Trendy & affordable jewellery & accessories

Southern Athens

Flowers

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr Kifissia Fashion 21 Kifissia Kifissias 265, Tel: 210.801.3594 Extreme sport paraphernelia

Vassilis Zoulias Argyropoulou 1-3, Tel: 210.801.7023 Unique designs reminiscent of times past

Food & Wine Aristokratikon Argyropoulou 8, Tel: 210.801.6533 Decadent handmade chocolates

Bakaliko Ola Ta Kala Kifissias 238-240, Mela Shopping Centre, Tel: 210.808.9908 Quality Greek delicacies

Sorpresa Italiana Kiriazi 6-8, Tel: 210.801.7886, Authentic fresh Italian pasta, sauces, truffles & more

Stefanidis Finest Foods

A. Metaxa 19 Tel: 210.898.32.69 www.zayiana.com

Dimitrios Square 13, Tel: 210.808.2191 Excellent European delicatessen

Jewellery

Kassaveti 5, Tel: 210.801.2472 Milk products & patisserie

ZerTeo Metaxa 24-26, Tel: 210.894.6682 Unique jewellery designs

Varsos

Maroussi Golden Hall

Provence

Kifissias 37A, Tel: 210.680.3450 131 high-end (and high-street) stores for anyone with a passion for fashion

Posidonos 80, Tel: 210.898.1435 Gourmet French delicatessen

Andrea Papandreou 35 Tel: 210.630.0000 Shops, cinemas and food

Food & Wine

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Central Athens

Insider guide Eat & Drink Acropolis EAT Aglio Olio & Peperonicino Porinou 13, Tel: 210.921.1801 Authentic Italian pasta in a cozy setting, accompanied by luscious salads and homemade dolci

Atrium Rovertou Galli 4, Acropolis.

Tel: 210.923.6832, Refined Greek cuisine in a cosy setting

Mani Mani Falirou 10 Tel: 210.921.8180 Peloponnesian specialities with Mediterranean touches

Exarhia EAT Fabrica de Vino Em. Benaki 3, Tel: 210.321.4148 85 wine etiquettes and mini mezzes in an industrial environment

Kavouras Themistokleous 64, Tel: 210.381.0202 Dine while enjoying live Rebetika music

Salero Valtetsiou 51, Tel: 210.381.3358 Spanish and mediterranean cuisine in the heart of Exarhia

Yantes Valtetsiou 44, Tel: 210.330.1369 Modern Greek cuisine prepared with organic ingredients.

DRINK Circus Bar Navarinou 11, Tel: 210.361.5255 Attracts a hip and happening crowd in a cozy space

Ginger Ale

MoMix

Themistokleous 74, Tel: 210.330.1246 Enjoy a cocktail or a coffee in a retro pop atmosphere

Keleou 1-5, Gazi. Tel: 697.435.0179, Temple of mixology and high-quality bartending

Vox

PIXI

Arahovas 56 & Themistokleous Tel: 210.383.5811 One of the oldest summer cinemas in Athens is a picturesque place for a retro-tinged drink

Evmolpidon 11, Gazi.

Tel: 210.342.3751, Get in to the groove

Gazi EAT Bollywood Gazi Elasidon 29 & Konstantinoupoleos 44, Tel: 210.345.0041 Indian cuisine in an industrial setting

Plastiko

Sofroniou 12A, Tel: 210.341.0308 Excellent cocktails, reasonable prices, summer mood

Socialista Triptolemou 33, Gazi Tel: 210.347.4733 Mainstream barclub in industrial setting

Tapas Bar

Triptolemou 44, Tel: 210.347.1844 Cocktails and tapas at the bar, just like in Spain

Athiri

Persefonis 19, Tel: 210.341.3440 Traditional psistaria serving grilled meat dishes

Hilton

Plataion 15, Tel: 210.346.2983 Greek & Mediterranean cuisine in beautiful surroundings

Kohenoor

EAT

Butcher’s Shop

Triptolemou 41, Tel: 210.345.5762 Indian authentic specialties in a neat setting

Mamacas Persefonis 41, Tel: 210.346.4984 Modern taverna located in an old barrel warehouse offering traditional Greek fare

Prosopa Meg. Vasiliou 52 & Konstantinoupoleos 4 Tel: 210.341.3433, Delicious dishes in a warm atmosphere right beside the train tracks. A popular gay haunt.

Thalatta Vitonos 5, Tel: 210.346.4204 Fresh seafood creations

DRINK Bars, Clubs & Lounges Almaz Triptolemou 12, Tel: 210.347.4763 Lounge in a modern atmosphere while listening to music from around the world

Dirty Ginger Triptolemou 46, Tel: 210.342.3809 Excellent cocktails, meat dishes and “hot” finger food

Hoxton Bar Voutadon 42 Gazi, Tel: 210.341.3395, A cocktail bar based on Hoxton in East London

Gazarte

Boutadon 32-34, Tel: 210.346.0347 Lounge bar with excellent views of the Acropolis, ethnic music and live events

Gasoline

Gargittion 23Α, Tel: 210.346.9396 All day bar with freestyle music and interesting guest-nights

48 insider athens | March - April 2015

Mani Mani

Voted one of to p 10 restaurants in Paramythias 13 and Salaminos, Tel: 210 524 2727 Haute cuisine Europe Funky Gourmet

Alatsi Vrassida 13, Tel: 210.721.0501 Exquisite Cretan specialties

Byzantino

Athens Hilton Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1400 Traditional Greek recipes with a Mediterranean twist

Cookoovaya

in art deco interior

Safka

Regular w ine

Megalou Alexandrou 80-82, degustat ions Tel: 210 524 3340 Scandinavian cuisine

DRINK

Hatziyianni Mexi 2A, Tel. 210.723.5005, 5 famous chefs combine their talents to create unique flavors.

CV Bar

Baltinon 2 , Gyzi. Tel : 211.700.9383

Kolonaki

Konstantinoupoleos 108, Keramikos Tel: 210.345.1744

Leilimlei Milos

Athens Hilton Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.724.4400 Simply prepared local flavours.

Guaranteed value for money

Vezene

EAT Bakeries & Patisseries Cake

Vrasida 11, Tel: 210.723.2002 Modern bistrot serving seafood & cured beef

Irodotou 15, Tel: 210.721.2253 For real American homemade cheesecake, brownies and more

Vlassis

Fresh

Meandrou 15, Tel: 210.646.3060 & 210.725.6335, Family-run taverna serving traditional Greek food

Kriezotou 12, Tel: 210.364.2948/ Loukianou 21, Tel: 210.729.3453 Desserts and cakes

DRINK

Restaurants

Galaxy Bar Athens Hilton, Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1402 Rooftop cocktails in a chic atmosphere

Kerameikos EAT Aleria

Awarded Toqu e d’Or in 2013

Meg. Alexandrou 57, Tel: 210.522.2633 Adventurous Greek cuisine in a cosy setting

Altamira Tsakalof 36A, Tel: 210.361.4695 Flavours of multiethnic cuisine

Boschetto Evangelismos Park, Tel: 210.721.0893 Italian food in a lush central setting

Cafe Boheme Omirou 36, Tel: 210.360.8018 Welcoming nook with Greek cooking and more-ish cocktails

Capanna Ploutarchou 38 & Charitos, Kolonaki Tel: 210.724.1777 People-watching and authentic Italian fare

Eat & Drink

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr

Cinco

Ouzadiko

Yoko Sushi & Bento

Skoufa 52, Tel: 210.364.360 Stylish, lively tapas bar with great cocktails

Karneadou 25-26, Tel: 210.729.5484 Traditional Greek appetizers & ouzo

39 Patriarchou Ioakeim, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.342.4654 Fresh sushi to-go!

F+W

Fokilidou 15 & Voukourestiou 47A Tel: 210.360.8621 Paros' legendary gourmet restaurant serving seafood in the heart of Athens

new

Xenokratous 49, Tel: 210.721.1146 Gourmet food by Oliver Campanha

Filippou Xenokratous 19, Tel: 210.721.6390 Home-cooked Greek taverna dishes

IT restaurant Skoufa 29, Tel. 210 36 35 773, Affordable gourmet menu in a chic environment.

Jackson Hall Milioni 4, Tel: 210.361.6098 Gourmet burgers with all the fixings

Kalamaki Kolonaki Ploutarhou 32, Tel: 210.721.8800 Souvlakia on the sidewalk have never been so trendy

Kiku Dimokritou 12, Tel: 210.364.7033 Fresh, beautifully presented sushi

L'Abreuvoir Xenokratous 51, Tel: 210.722.9106 Fine French cuisine

Le Grand Balcon St George Lycabettus Hotel, Kleomenous 2, Tel: 210.729.0711 Gourmet Greek cuisine

Li - Li - Shu Deinokratous 1, Tel: 210.722.2254 Refreshingly authentic Japanese cuisine

Minnie the Moocher Tsakalof 6, Kolonaki, Tel: 210 364 1686

Nice n Easy Omirou 60 & Skoufa, Tel.: 210.361.7201 Gourmet cafe-restaurant with organic products and jazz music

Orizontes Lycavyttou Lycabettus Hill, Tel: 210.722.7065 Gourmet dining with a spectacular view

Papadakis

P-BOX Haritos 24, Periscope hotel Tel: 210.729.8556 Simple ingredients, special flavours in a setting designed

by Theodore Zoumboulakis

Prytaneion Milioni 7, Tel: 210.364.3353 Generous portions of Mediterranean fare

Ratka Haritos 32, Tel: 210.729.0746 Popular haunt of the rich and almost famous, with cosmopolitan cuisine

Sale e Pepe Aristipou 34, Tel: 210.723.4102 Authentic Italian trattoria

Scala Vinoteca Sina 50, Tel: 210.361.0041 Mediterranean restaurant ideal for wining & dining

Showroom Milioni 12, Tel: 210.364.6460 Missoni-designed interiors, serving unique Mediterranean flavours

Suba Restaurant Skoufa 58 & Sina, Kolonaki Tel: 210.338.8211 Authentic sushi in the heart of the city

TGI Friday’s

DRINK Bars, Clubs & Lounges City Charitos 43, Tel: 210.722.8910 Modern aesthetics, mutli-culti crowd and soulful music

London str 72

For Creative Cuisine

new

Solonos 72, Tel: 693.951.1760, 690.607.3362 Union jacks and red telephone booths in an all day bar-restaurant

www.lachocolatiere.gr

Mai Tai Ploutarhou 18, Tel: 210.725.8306 Early evening cocktails in a laid-back atmosphere

Rosebud Omirou 60 & Skoufa 40, Tel: 210.339.2370 All day hang-out with music ranging from jazz to famous soundtracks

Skoufaki Skoufa 47-49, Tel: 210.364.5888 All time classic café bar

Ten Ploutarhou 10, Tel: 210.721.0161 One of the most popular hot spots in town

Mavili Sq

Cafés

Balthazar

DRINK Tsoha 27, Tel: 210.644.1215 Lovely garden and chic interior attracts a cool crowd

Da Capo Tsakalof 1, Tel: 210.360.2497 Long-established people-watching hangout

Baraonda

Peros

Kolokotroni 35, Kefalari sq.

Tel: 210.623.3945, American restaurant with real steak and barbecuesauce for casual dining!

Kolonaki Square, Tel: 210.364.5068 Enjoy a cup of java if you can find a spot

Tutti a Tavola

To Tsai

Spefsippou 8, Kolonaki.

Tel: 210.722.2785, Authentic Italian trattoria at affordable prices.

Soutsou & Likavitou, Tel: 210.338.8941 Tea & tea paraphernalia from around the world

Tea

Tsoha 43, Tel: 210.644.4308 Gourmet cuisine and funky beats

Briki Dorileou 6, Tel: 210.654.2380 Trendy hole-in-the-wall hangout

EAT Fuga Vas.Sofias & Kokkali 1, Tel: 210 724 2979 Italian inspired menu by chef Andrea Berton at the Athens Concert Hall

Ginger Dorileou 10-12, Tel: 210.645.1169 Original dishes and innovative combinations in an elegant atmosphere To Tsai

St’Astra

Alexadras 10, Tel: 210.889.4500 For an unforgettable roof-top dining experience

To Parko Eleftherias

Aleria

Milos Garden

Next to Megaron Mousikis, Tel: 210.722.3784 Classic recipes and nice atmopshere in a lush green park

insider athens | March - April 2015 49

Insider guide Eat & Drink Metaxurgeio

360 Cocktail Bar

EAT Andaman Alopis 65, Athens, Tel. 211.210.4939, Thai food in an exotic setting

Archeon Gefsis Kodratou 22, Tel: 210.523.9661 Ancient Greek cuisine makes a unique comeback after 25 centuries

Blue Bambo Kydantidon 24, Athens, Tel. 210.342.3124, Thai food with modern interior design

Polly Maggoo Leonidou 80 & Salaminos, Tel: 210 524 1120 Gourmet cuisine in a post-modern and industrial setting.

New hot spot for the trendy

Tamarind Keramikou 51, Metaxourgio, Tel. 210.522.5945, tamarindathens.gr/eng Thai food in a beautiful setting

Monastiraki EAT Bairaktaris Monastiraki Square 2 Tel: 210.321.3036 Old-world taverna serving traditional Greek fare

Café Avyssinias Kynetou 7, Tel: 210.321.7407 Spcializing in regional dishes & live music on weekends

A for Athens Miaouli 2-4, Tel: 210.324.4244 An urban terrace with the most stunning view of the Acropolis

Loukoumi Bar Plateia Avissinias 3, Tel: 210.323.4814 An all day hang-out with good music, cool atmosphere and great views

Fuga

2 Michelin stars

Six Dogs

Spondi

Avramiotou 6-8, Tel: 210.321.0510 A day&night cultural entertainment center and bar with a vivid 600m2 back-garden.

Pyrronos 5, Tel: 210.756.4021 A mix of European & more exotic flavours. Voted one of the best in Athens

Nikodimou 18-20, Tel: 210.337.0000 Roof-top dining with Greek cuisine

Taf

Sushi Bar (The) Stilponos 2, Pl.Varnava, Pangrati Tel: 210.752.4354 Sushi on a budget

Venizelou Paleologou 4, Tel: 210.322.6711 Unpretentious gourmet cuisine

Tortuga

Scholarheio

Archimidous 1, Pangrati, Tel: 213.030.7520, Healthy, affordable street-style food.

Tripodon 14, Tel: 210.324.1605 A traditional tray taverna with old fashioned decor & prices

Trapezaria

Ydria

Efronionos 13, Pangrati Tel: 210.921.3500, Mediterranean cuisine in chic setting

Adrianou 68 & Eolou, Tel: 210.325.1619 Taditional Greek cuisine

Normanou 5, Tel: 210.323.8757 Outdoor bar in a neoclassical building with arty atmosphere and great exhibitions

Nea Smyrni EAT Kebabtzidikon Barbadimos Aigaiou and Spathari 2, Nea Smyrni, Tel. 210.934.7600 Casual, authentic souvlakerie

Electra

Mono Wine Restaurant

Trata o Stelios Anagenniseos Sq. 7-9, Tel: 210.729.1533 The best grilled fish in town

Psyrri

Omonia

DRINK - LIVE BARS

Diporto

Savvas

EAT

Mitropoleos 86, Tel: 210.321.9919 Gyros & Middle Eastern dishes like pastourmali

Athinaikon

Half Note Jazz Club

Sigalas-Bairaktaris

Ideal Restaurant

Melilotos Kalamiotou 19, Tel: 210.322.2458 Greek-Mediterranean cuisine with fresh local ingredients

Themistokleous 2, Tel: 210.383.8485 A traditional Greek ouzeri

Monastiraki Sq. 2, Tel: 210.321.3036 Century-old restaurant serving a variety of fresh dishes

Panepistimiou 46, Tel: 210.330.3000 Greek classics in old-world decor

Souvlaki Bar

Themistokleous 8 and Nikitara 9, Tel: 210.383.8531 Excellent fish taverna in the centre of Athens

Adrianou 7 & Thisiou 15, Tel: 210.515.0550

Stou Meïdani Sokratous 3 & Evripidou Tel: 210.324.9073, A menu that is sure to please with speciality oven dishes

Thanassis Mitropoleos 69, Tel: 210.324.4705 A souvlaki lover’s paradise

To Kouti Adrianou 23, Tel: 210.321.3229 Mediterranean fare right next to the ancient agora

DRINK 360 Cocktail Bar Ifestou 2, Tel: 210.321.0006

Trata

Trivonianou 17, Tel: 210.921.3310 A jazz club with great history, hosting important names from the international music scene.

Superfly Empedokleous 28-30, Tel: 211.404.6076 The new hot spot for retro gamers

Plaka

Pangrati

EAT

EAT

2 Mazi

Cucina Povera

Nikis 48, Tel: 210.322.2839 Creative gourmet dishes that change monthly

Evforionos 13 & Eratosthenous Tel: 210.756.6008, Greek cuisine with a menu that changes daily

Fatsio Efroniou 5, Tel: 210.721.7421 Greek food & political gossip

Mavro Provato

Ariannou 31, Pangrati, Tel: 210.722.3466 Best value-for-money meal in Athens

50 insider athens | March - April 2015

Brettos Kydathaneon 41, Plaka, Tel: 21.323.2110. Legendary wateringhole in the Plaka district

Daphne’s Restaurant Lysikratous 4, Tel: 210.322.7971 Refined classic Greek dishes in a resplendent atmosphere

EAT Theatrou & Sokratous, Tel: 210.321.1463 Old-world tavern offers bargain basics like salads, sardines & fava

Gostijo Aisopou 10 street, Tel: 210.323.3825 Kosher menu and mediterranean “repertoire”

Kouzina Cine-Psirri Sari 44, Tel: 210.321.5534 Mediterranean fare & eclectic music Spondi

Eat & Drink

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr

Ochre & Brown

Dosirak

Noodle Bar

Kalua

Leokoriou 7, Tel: 210.331.2950 Mediterranean/French cuisine

Voulis 31-33, Tel: 210.323.3330 Japanese & Korean cuisine in the heart of Athens

Apollonos 11, Tel: 210.331.8585 A congenial place to drop in for a quick noodle fix

Amerikis 6, Tel: 210.360.8304 Dance the night away in a chic environment

DRINK

Furin Kazan

O Tzitzikas ki o Mermigas

Oinoscent

Apollonos 2, Tel: 210.322.9170 A Japanese favourite of expats & Athenians alike

Mitropoleos 12-14, Tel: 210.324.7607 Savoury Greek cuisine, perfectly combining modern & traditional elements

GB Corner

Osterman

Hotel Grand Bretagne, Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.333.0750 Luxurious surroundings, Mediterranean cuisine

Agias Eirinis Sq, Tel: 210.324.3331 Mediterranean dishes in a setting where minimalism meets retro

Indian Kitchen

Panepistiomiou 10, Tel: 210.722.4824 A true French patisserie

Bars, Clubs & Lounges Cantina Social Leokoriou 8, Tel: 210.325.1668 Tiny standing bar, ideal for socializing.

Dude Kalamiotou 14, Tel: 210.322.7130 Uptempo bar inspired by “Big Lebowski”

Syntagma EAT

Apollonos 6, Tel: 210.323.7720

Ioannis Royal Olympic Hotel, Ath. Diakou 28-34, Tel: 210.928.8400 Greek & Mediterranean cuisine with breathtaking views from the rooftop

Amandine Bagels & Gourmandises

Kiki’s de Grece

Nikis 13, Syntagma Tel : 210.323.9829 Fresh bagels and French pastries

Ipitou and Voulis 38, Syntagma, Tel: 210.321.1279, Cosy wine bar with French flair

Avocado Nikis 30, Tel: 210.323.7878 Vegetarian restaurant

City Bistro Stoa Spiliomilou, Syntagma, Tel. 210 32 11 315, citylink.gr Refined cuisine in chic setting

Koi 15 Nikis, Syntagma, 210.321.1099 Affordable street-food style sushi

Meatropoleos 3 Mitropoleos 3, Tel: 210.324.1805 Modern greek grill restaurant

Paul

Plaza Lounges NJV Athens Plaza Hotel Vas. Georgiou A & Stadiou Tel: 210.335.2400 All day lounge with salads & snacks

The Parliament NJV Athens Plaza Hotel Vas. Georgiou A & Stadiou Tel: 210.335.2400 International cuisine with Mediterranean accents

Tudor Hall Restaurant & Lounge King George Hotel Vas. Georgiou A 3, Tel: 210.322.2210 Elegant setting, refined cuisine an an incredible Acropolis view

DRINK Bars, Clubs & Lounges 42 Bar 3 Kolokotroni, Syntagma, Tel: 6948242455, Delicious creative cocktails and mixology

Boutique

Eat

New: CV, Kerameikos, Athens

Do

New: Suba, Kolonaki, Athens

Drink

The concierge of the Grande Bretagne Hotel in Syntagma Square recommends:

Classic: Filippou, Kolonaki, Athens Alternative: Vezene, Ilissia, Athens

Filellinon 15, Tel: 210.323.1315 Popular Athenian night spot

Explorer’s Lounge NJV Athens Plaza, Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.335.2400, Magnificent cocktails and live jazz in an intimate atmosphere

Heteroclito Fokionos 2, Tel: 210.323.9406 A true wine destination with focus on Greek vineyards

Classic: Oinoscent, Syntagma, Athens

Syngrou EAT AiNikolas Syngrou Ave. 156, Tel: 210.923.2918 Original seafood dishes, fresh ingredients and simple elegant interior

Avenue Metropolitan Hotel, Syngrou Ave 385, Tel: 210.947.100 French bistrot inspired by Michel Roux

Café Zoe Athenaeum InterContinental, Syngrou Ave 89-93, Tel: 210.920.6655 Casual dining and terrific buffets for lunch and on Sundays

Hytra Onassis Cultural Center Syngrou Ave 107-109, Tel: 217.707.1118, 210.331.6767 Creative gourmet Greek cuisine with stunning views

Kollias Syngrou Ave. 303, Tel: 210.940.8620 Excellent seafood in a pleasant Mediterranean atmosphere

Ledra Kai Athens Ledra Hotel, Syngrou 115, Neos Kosmos, Tel: 210.930.0000 Polynesian Tepanyiaki restaurant going strong after 30 years

Peacock Hotel Hera, Falirou 9, Tel: 210.923.6682 Traditional food with breathtaking Acropolis views

Première Athenaeum InterContinental, Syngrou Ave 89-93, Tel: 210.920.6981 Gourmet cuisine with splendid views

Thissio EAT

Alternative: Minnie the Moocher, Kolonaki, Athens

Indian Masala Ermou 129, Tel: 210.321.9412 Amazing Indian food at affordable price in a pleasant environment

New: Onassis Cultural Centre, Tavros, Athens Classic: Museum of Cycladic Art, Kolonaki, Athens Alternative: Herakleidon Museum, Thissio, Athens

Frequent wine

tastings Voulis 44A Syntagma.

Tel: 210.322.9374 Trendy winebar

Kirki Explorer’s Lounge

Apostoplou Pavlou 31, Tel: 210.346.6960 Ideal for a lunch break

insider athens | March - April 2015 51

Insider guide Eat & Drink Kuzina

Vosporos

Adrianou 9, Tel: 210.324.0133 Inspired traditional recipes in a cozy arty environment

Akti Koumoundourou 20, Pireaus, Tel.210.412.7324, Mediterranean dining with a sea view.

The James Joyce

Southern Athens

Astiggos 12, Tel: 210.323.5055 Genuine Irish pub with typical pub fare

Piraeus EAT Captain John's Ak. Koumoundourou 16A, Tel: 210.417.7589 Traditional seafood

Dourambeis Ak. Protopsalti 29, Tel: 210.412.2092 Classic fish taverna

Jimmy and The Fish Ak. Mikrolimanou, Tel: 210.413.4084.

Excellent seafood; try the astakomakaronada

Kollias Plastira 3, Tel: 210.462.9620 Excellent seafood but difficult to find; reserve on weekends

Rouan Thai Notara 131, Piraeus, Tel. 210.429.4494, Home-style Thai food

Tony Bonano

Papanastasiou 63, Tel: 210.411.1901 Italian cuisine with a view of the harbour

Zefyros Ak. Koumoundourou 48, Tel: 210.417.5152 Fresh seafood on the quay

Zorbas Ak. Koumoundourou 14, Tel: 210.411.1163 Unique flavours of the Mediterranean

Mikrolimano, Tel: 210 5228400 Seafood prepared by Michelin star-winning chef Lefteris Lazarou

Vassilenas Etolikou 72 & Vitolion, Tel: 210.461.2457 Friendly food and atmosphere

Restaurants

Molly Malone's

Istioploikos

Aperitivo

Ak. Microlimanou, Tel: 210.413.4084 One of the hip places to see and be seen with a rooftop bar overlooking the yachting marina

Kyprou 70, Tel: 210.894.0377 Authentic Italian cuisine in a cosy setting

Yannitsopoulou 8, Tel: 210.894.4247 Irish pub serving probably the best Irish Stew in Athens

Katafigio

33rd Street Elliniko 13, Tel: 210.963.5416 The fist dedicated Russian restaurant in Athens

Ak. Koumoundourou 4, Tel: 210.413.1612 Club, cafe & beer house

Food Mafia

EAT Da Bruno Ag. Alexandrou 46, Tel: 210.981.8959 Rich list with Italian flavours and fresh pasta

Il Tinello Kebabtzidikon Kyr.Ariston

new

Zisimopoulou 96, Faliro, 210.982.2320 Dining in a garden setting Comfort food overlooking the sea

Le Petit Sommelier

Laodikis & Filikis Etairias10, Tel: 210.894.2177 International fare with attitude

Giouvetsakia Ithomis 20 and Moreos, Tel: 210.964.8081 Organic mageirefta food

Hama Grigoriou Lambraki 34, Tel: 210.960.0595 Sophisticated Japanese cuisine in a cosy setting

Il Salotto Markou Botsari 13, Tel: 210.894.8397 Minimal décor, elegant Italian fare

new

Zaimi 6, Tel: 210.984.2344 French cuisine & excellent wine list

Inbi

DRINK

Jamon Pintxos Bar

“Flisvos” Marina, Tel: 210.985.3183 Cocktails whith music

Zythos

Lazaraki 26, Tel: 210.894.4982 Sushi fusion Laodikis 33-35, Tel: 210.894.6089 Basque “pinchos” in a cozy, cheerful atmosphere

Eleftherias 45, Tel: 210.985.0478 Reminiscent of an Irish pub with several beers to choose from

Keep Woking

Glyfada

La Casa Di Giorgino

EAT Bakeries & Patisseries Paul Esperidon Square and Kyprou 70, Tel: 210.894.7169 A real French boulangerie that serves meals too.

52 insider athens | March - April 2015

cuisine

Panagouli 52 & Faidras Tel: 210.894.3169 Lebanese cuisine & entertainment

Faliro

Knossou 54, Tel: 210.982.8462 Real Italian home cooking

Russian

Barin

Beirut

Zinc

Varoulko

Matsuhisa

DRINK

Degustation menu Kitchen Bar Ak. Koumoundourou 52, at just 40€ Poseidonos 3, Tel: 210.981.2004 Varoulko

New Address!

Kyprou 30-32, Tel: 210.963.8770

Dimitriou Gounari 70, Tel:211.012.2801 Create-your-own Asian cuisine, fast and funky Kyprou 30-32, Tel: 210.963.8770 Authentic Italian pizza made in a traditional wood-burning oven

Mushroom

new

Labraki & Ag. Nikolaou 48, Tel: 210.960.3943 Menu with emphasis on mushrooms with cosy, wood decor. Try the cocktail with mushrooms

Mutfak Laodikis 38, Glyfada, Tel.210.894.9060 Politiki Kouzina in a romantic setting

Ocean Basket new

Lazaraki 61 & Pandoras 5, Glyfada 210.898.3183 Fresh oysters South African favourite seafood restaurant comes to Greece

Sardelaki Foivis 15, Tel: 211.402.1195 Sardines and seafood in a casual setting.

Sale Bianco da Salvotoro Markou Botsari 10A, Tel: 210.898.6301 Authentic Italian food in an inviting atmosphere

The Burger Joint Foivis 17, Tel: 210.894.0260 NY style, organic burgers in a casual and relaxed environment.

To 25araki M. Botsari 8, Tel: 210.894.4112 Fresh seafood at reasonable prices

Vincenzo Giannitsopoulou 1, Tel: 210.894.1310 Value for money Italian specialities with a Southern Italian touch

CreperieS To Paramythi Kyprou 9, Tel: 210.894.1361 Creperie in a fairy-tale setting

DRINK Bars, Clubs & Lounges Balux

Mimaya

Posidonos 58, Tel: 210.898.3577 Waterfront lounging

Markou Botsari 8, Tel: 210.894.4850 Black and white setting with creative Mediterranean cuisine.

Daskaroli 67, Tel: 210.964.7600 American style bar with rock, blues, soul music and live events

Bourbon

Eat & Drink Galazia Hytra

DRINK

Westin Hotel, Astir Palace, 210.890.2137 Michelin star gourmet restaurant

En Plo

Il Tramonto Astir Palace, Apollonos 40, Tel: 210.8901794 Creative Italian cuisine with mindblowing views of the Saronic Gulf

Ithaki

Capri Bay Grigoriou Lambraki 2, Tel: 210.894.9995 Excellent cocktails in a Moroccan style garden

Mikro Laodikis 33-35, Tel: 210.894.1031 Minimal decor with well-known Greek DJs

Vinarte Marangou 18, Tel: 210 894.1511 A wine bar and Italian restaurant with regular art exhibitions and cool decor

Cafes

Apollonos 28, Tel: 210.896.3747 Beautiful sea view, fresh seafood & great service

Louizidis Ermou 2, Tel: 210.896.0591 Traditional Greek taverna popular with the locals

Malabar The Margi, Litous 11, Tel: 210.892.9160 Multinational tastes in a chic Mediterranean ambience

Rafale Apollonos 28, Tel: 210.967.1184 Traditionally prepared seafood dishes presented exquisitely

Chocolat

Matsuhisa Athens

Zisimopoulou 9, Tel: 210.894.3442 Satisfies even the most discerning coffee connoisseur

Astir Palace, Apollonos 40, Tel: 210.896.0510 Celebrity chef Nobu Matsuhisa serves up sushi favourites with a Latin-American flair

Voula EAT Dulcis in Fundo Prinkipos Petrou 33, Tel: 210.894.2136 Top-quality authentic Italian

Live music Vasileos Pavlou 99, Thursday-Saturday Elias Koukoutsi

Tel: 210.899.5480 A modern “rakadiko” serving Greek dishes.

Kebabtzidikon To Gnission Voula, Tel. 210.895.1331, Grilled meats to suit all budgets

Koi 98 Vas. Pavlou in Voula, 213.032.0890 Affordable street-food style sushi

Naiades Vas. Pavlou 74, Tel: 210.965.7706 Popular family grill joint

Vouliagmeni EAT Baku Margi Hotel, Litous 11, Tel: 210.967.0924 Delicious variations of Mediterranean food

Al Bacio Posidonos 17, Tel: 210.896.0400 Trattoria serving traditional Italian dishes & pizza

Mythos of the Sea Ag. Nikolaou 10 & Iliou, Tel: 210.891.1100 Gourmet Mediterranean cuisine that blends local produce with fresh seafood

Psaraki Posidonos 15, Tel: 210.896.2215 Seafood served in an informal setting

Schara Posidonos 15, Tel: 210.896.2432 Grills with frills in a friendly setting at reasonable prices

Silver Casa Litous 2 & Apollonos 18, Tel: 210.967.1164, 210.896.4112 Italian restaurant across the water

Waffle House Posidonos 17, Tel: 210.896.1227 Sure to satisfy your sweet tooth

Ex Anatolis

Meat Square Ethnikis Antistaseos 9-11, Tel: 210.683.1300, Juicy steaks in pleasant family environment

Island 27th klm Athinon-Souniou Tel: 210.965.3563-4 Award-winning cuisine & an unmatched location with views of the Saronic Gulf

Saipan K. Varnali 9, Tel: 210.685.0644 Exquisite dishes from China, Japan and Indonesia

Sofa Bar The Westin Hotel, Apollonos 40, Tel: 210.890.1709 Modern lounge bar serving up delectable cocktails

1920 Ag. Paraskevi 110, Tel: 210.681.3029 Accent on meat in an elegant setting

Psomi & Alati Eleftherioton Sq 8, Tel.: 210.684.8178 Gastronomic paradise serving Greek dishes with a modern twist

Ag. Paraskevi

Rakokazano

EAT

Irakliou 1, Tel: 210.689.5501 Quality Greek mezzes in a cosy simple environment

Da Vinci

Santa Fe

Ag. Ioannou 23, Tel: 210.600.0102 Delightful dishes in fantastic ambience

Ag. Georgiou 30’B, Tel: 210.685.9690 Mexican food in traditional setting

Wine Not

new

Kalogrezis 12, Tel: 210.689.0007 Industrial setting with eclectic wine list

Nanninela Peloponnissou 13 Tel: 210.600.5622 Authentic Italian cuisine in traditional decor

Psychico EAT 310 Street

Halandri

Kifissias Av. 310, Tel: 210.671.0688 Juicy burgers and rich salads with retro look

EAT 30 something

Albion

Iroon Sq 8, Tel: 210.689.9227 Pizza and cocktail bar in a San Franscisco atmosphere

Omirou 6, Tel: 210.674.0710 Mediterranean flavours in a cosy atmosphere

Antaios

Almyra Filikis Eterias 39, Tel: 210.681.9109 Refined seafood and magical summer garden

Anahita Chr. Smirnis 3, Tel: 210.689.1222 The only place in Athens to try authentic Persian dishes

Apsendi Il Τramonto

Vasileos Georgiou 33, Halandri, 210.681.3607 Spicy middle eastern cuisine

Posidonos 4, Tel: 210.967.1770 Cocktails overlooking Vouliagmeni Bay

Northern Athens

Bo Botrini’s

To advertise, contact ads@insider-magazine.gr

Kifissias 250-254 & Serres Tel: 210.671.7890 Refined cuisine and cocktails in stylish urban atmosphere

Bo Botrini’s Vasileos Georgiou B 24b, Halandri, Tel: 210.685.7323 Athens' best table by far, winner of Golden Hats 2014

Chefi’s Perikleous 31, Halandri, Tel. 210.681.5774, chefi.gr, Refined cuisine with international flavours and regular wine tastings

G. Drosini 7, Tel: 210.675.5493 Relaxed atmosphere with delicious mezedes

Bluefield Burger Aggelopoulou 3, Tel: 210.677.7739 For real American burgers

The Burger Joint Solomou 4-6, Tel: 210.671.2222 New York style, organic burgers in an industrial and fresh restaurant environment.

China’s Fantasy Kambouroglou 32, Tel: 210.674.9889 Chinese cuisine

Dioskouroi Dim. Vasiliou 16, Tel: 210.671.3997 All day café-restaurant

Dourampeis Oyster

new

Andrianiou 37, Tel: 210.671.0100 Delectable seafood and frech oysters

insider athens | March - April 2015 53

5

Insider guide Eat & Drink Kifissias 289, Tel: 210.801.1093 Delicious salads, appetizers, souvlakia & grilled platters

Gaspar Food and Mood

Il Salumaio

Dim. Vasiliou Av. & Lykourgou, Tel: 210.677.5011 Creative bistro cuisine ideal fro business lunches

Panagitsas 3, Tel: 210.623.3934 Specially-prepared Italian meals

Krithamos Mpoumpoulinas & N. Paritsi, Tel: 210.672.8790 Traditional flavours in an informal atmosphere

Matilde Pizza Bar Perikleous 7, Tel: 210.671.6803 Italian fare with accent on high quality ingredients

Ombra Olimpionikon 220 & Lykourgou, Tel: 210.671.1320 Italian food with attitude

Piperia Agg. Sikelianou 8 & Andrianiou, Tel: 210.672.9114 Terrific fusion food with piquant flavours

Rena tis Ftelias 25th Martiou 28, Tel: 210.674.3874 Highly recommended Greek taverna

Kifissia EAT Berdema Skiathou 3 & Strofiliou, Kifisia, 210.620.1108 Family restaurant with Mediterranean fare

Cash Diligianni 54, Tel: 212.100.4772 Cosmopolitan hang-out with upscale Mediterranean cuisine

Common Secret Kifissias 324, Tel: 210.623.3810 Coffee and light Mediterranean meals in a pleasant setting

Dos Hermanos Kyriazi 24, Tel: 210.808.7906 Excellent Mexican food & super margaritas

Elaias Gi Dexamenis & Olimpionikon 4, Tel: 210.62.00.005 The authenticity of Greek cuisine with stunning views of the city

Gefsis Me Onomasia Proelefsis Kifissias 317, Tel: 210.800.1402 Divine food from all over the world

Jaipur Palace Kifissias 222, Tel: 210.808.8318 Indian cuisine and fine wines

Kastelorizo Platanon 2, Tel: 210.807.5408 Part of a chain of upscale seafood restaurants that is sure to please

Kokkino Psaraki Evagelistrias 36, Tel: 210.620.1572 Seafood taverna

Kool Life Life Gallery, Thiseos 103, Tel: 211.106.7400 Inovative cuisine in a cool restaurant cum deli

Mangiamo by Meat Square Stamata Ave. 5, Drossia.

Tel: 210.800.4700 Open from Mondays to Friday from 3 pm to midnight and on weekends from 1pm to midnight

Nargile Harilaou Trikoupi 50, Tel: 210.808.3333 Lebanese cuisine in a cosmopolitan ambience

Nui Gortinias 11, Tel: 210.801.3553 Gourmet mutli-Asian restaurant

O Tzitzikas Ki O Mermigas Drosini 12-14, Tel: 210.623.0080 A modern taverna serving traditional dishes at reasonable prices

Paul Levidou 4, Tel: 210.808.4288 French boulangerie

Prytaneion Kolokotroni 37, Tel: 210.808.9160 Generous portions of Mediterranean fare

Royal Thai Zirini 12, Tel: 210.623.2322 Thai cuisine in an opulent setting

Salumaio di Atene Panagitsas 3, Tel: 210.623.3934 Authentic Italian food & fabulous desserts

Semiramis Restaurant Semiramis Hotel, Harilaou Trikoupi 48, Tel: 210.628.4500 Mediterranean cuisine in a hip atmosphere

Telemachos Barbeque Club

Golden Phoenix

Fragkopoulou 22, Tel: 210.807.6680 Rare meats char-grilled to perfection

Harilaou Trikoupi & Gortinias Tel: 210.801.3588, Chinese classic popular for the brunch buffet

Gortinias 11& Dangli, Kifissia, Tel: 210.801.3553 Great sushi at terrific prices

Tomoe

54 insider athens | March - April 2015

new

DRINK Chateau Ag. Dimitriou 9, Tel: 210.801.5830 The cool sets preferred bar with baroque décor and refined cuisine

Dyo 48 Kifisias 248, Tel: 210.623.0870 New hang out oasis with retro ambience

Mento Café Ag. Theodorou 10, Tel: 210.808.0193 Traditional home turned stylish cafe

Vinifera Kifissias 317, Tel: 210.807.7709 Selection of wines from all over the world

Food & Wine Cellier Kifissias 369, Tel: 210.801.8756 By far, one of the best cellars stocking the finest labels in town

Maroussi

Central Athens

Gourounakia Kifissias

Perikleous 11, Tel: 210.671.1976 A modern take on a traditional psarotaverna

Agani Kifissias 22, Tel: 210.277.7065 Delectable, inspired Greek cuisine

Altamira

El Taco Bueno Ethnikis Antistaseos & Psaron 1 Tel: 210.684.0460 Mexican flavours in a traditional setting

Mauzac Alamanas 1, Tel: 210.619.9902 Clean lines and a beautiful garden make this café, bar, restaurant a must

Pausa Ag. Konstantinou 46 & Ifestou 3 Tel: 210.617.9290 Italian cuisine accompanied by a selection of Greek & Italian wines

Wagamama Kifissias 37A, Tel: 210.683.6844 Fresh, nutritious Asian fusion food in a sleek yet simple setting

Whispers of wine Ag. Konstantinou 48, Tel: 210.617.9051 Gourmet food with rich wine list and vintage decor Urban Yoga Center

Hiltonia Health & Wellness Club Hilton, Vas. Sofias 46, Tel: 210.728.1801 Indoor and outdoor pools

Olive Tree Spa Chatzigiani Mexi 4, Tel: 210.724.4425

Syntagma GB Spa Syntagma Square, Tel: 210.333.0799 Award-winning spa featuring treatments

by E’SPA, Valmont & Algoane

Holmes Place Stadiou 4 & Voukourestiou Tel: 210.325.9400, Fully equipped health club with excellent array of classes

Hammam baths Ag. Asomaton 17 & Melidoni 1 Tel: 210.323.1073

Aneton Stratigou Lekka 19, Tel: 210.806.6700 Traditional cuisine in a comfy-chic setting reminiscent of the 50s & 60s

Hilton

Thissio

Perikleous 28, Tel: 210.612.8841 Multiethnic cuisine in funky environment

Southern Athens

Fish Co. Platters

Chill

Glyfada Holmes Place Gr. Lambraki 83 Tel: 210.969.0096

Touch & Go Dousmani 15, Tel: 210.894.4734 Quick relief by expert masseurs

Voula Urban Yoga Center Leukados 10 Tel: 213.025.3946, 697.704.0841 Release from urban stress

Vouliagmeni Arion Spa Astir Complex, Apollonos 40 Tel: 210.890.2000

Divani Apollon Palace & Spa Ag. Nikolaou 10 & Iliou, Tel: 210.891.1100

see & do Athinais Cultural Centre formerly a silk factory, this space has been converted into a large cultural centre. astorias 34-36, Votanikos. Tel: 210.348.0000.

B&M Theocharakis Foundation for the Fine Arts & Music Vas. Sofias 9 & Merlin 1, Athens Tel: 210.361.1206 Ileana Tounta Contemporary Art Centre 48 Armatolon-Klephton st.

Athens, Tel: 210.643.9466 Megaron Mousikis (The Athens Concert Hall) live concerts, operas and other performances. Vas. Sofias Ave. & Kokkali. Tel: 210.728.2333 Michael Cacoyannis Foundation Piraeus 206, Tavros, Tel: 210.341.8550 Onassis Cultural Centre Syngrou 107-109, Athens, Tel: 213.017.8000 The Art Foundation Normanou 5, Athens, Tel: 210.323.8757 Badminton Theatre Goudi, Athens, Tel: 211 101 0020 Gialino Music Theatre Sygrou 143, N. Smyrni, Athens Tel: 210.9316.101-4 Pallas Theatre Voukourestiou 5, Athens, Tel: 210.321.3100

Acropolis is open daily and entrance, includes archaeological sites. Tel: 201.321.0219 Ancient Agora was the heart of ancient Athens - the focus of political, commercial, administrative and social life for centuries.

Byzantine Churches many churches dating from the 11th and 12th centuries are found around the city. Noteworthy examples include: Agios Eleftherios, next to the cathedral on Mitropoleos Street; Kapnikarea, halfway down Ermou Street from Syntagma; Agi Apostoli, Agora area south of Stoa of Attalos; and Agia Triada (Russian Orthodox church) on Filellinon Street.

Churches are open to the public on Sundays and holidays, also usually for daily prayers 7am-1pm and 4-6:30pm. Dress soberly when

Agora Museum Located in the Stoa of Attalos, Athens. Tel: 210.321.0185.

Atelier Spyros Vassiliou Webster 5A, Athens.

Tel: 210.923.1502, spyrosvassiliou.org Athens University History Museum Tholou 5, Plaka, Tel: 210.368.9502, history-museum.uoa.gr Benaki Museum Koumbari 1 & Vas. Sofias Avenue, Athens Tel: 210.367.1000, benaki.gr Benaki Museum of Islamic Arts Dipylou 12, Kerameikos. Tel: 210.325.1311, benaki.gr

Benaki Museum, Pireos Pireos 138 & Andronikou, Gazi Tel: 210.345.3111, benaki.gr Byzantine Museum Vas. Sofias 22, Kolonaki. Tel: 210.721.1027 Hellenic Cosmos Foundation of the Hellenic world Pireos 254, Tavros. Tel: 212.254.0000. hellenic-cosmos.gr Frissiras Vlassis Museum of Contemporary European Art Monis Asteriou 3-7, Plaka, Tel: 210.323.4678 frissirasmuseum.com Goulandris Foundation Museum of Cycladic Art Neofytou Douka 4, Athens .Tel: 210.722.8321 cycladic.gr Herakleidon Herakleidon 16, Thissio, Tel: 210-346.1981. herakleidon-art.gr Ilias Lalaounis Jewellery Museum Karyatidon & Kallisperi 12, Makrygianni, Acropolis. Tel: 210.922.7260, lalaounis.com Jewish Museum Nikis 39, Plaka. Tel: 210.322.5582. jewishmuseum.gr Kerameikos Museum Ermou 148, Monastiraki, Tel: 210.346.3552.

National Archaeological Museum Patission 44, Athens, Tel: 210.821.7724 National Gallery and Alexandros Soutsos Museum Vas. Konstantinou 50, Athens.

Tel: 210.723.5857, 210.723.5937 Numismatic Museum Panepistimiou 12, Athens.

Tel: 210.363.5953, nma.gr The Acropolis Museum Dionysiou Areopagitou Street, Acropolis.

Tel: 210.924.1043, theacropolismuseum.gr The National Art Gallery and Alexander Soutzos Museum Michalakopoulou 1 - Vas. Constantinou 1, Athens, Tel: 210-7235857 Allou Fun Park Kifissou & Petrou Ralli, Ag. Ioannis Rentis, Tel: 210.425.6999, allou.gr Children’s Museum Kydathinaeon 14, Plaka, Tel: 210.331.2995.

Goulandris Museum of Natural History Levidou 13, Kifissia.

Tel: 210.801.5870, gnhm.gr Greek Folk Art Museum Daily Karaghiozis puppet shows!

Kydathinaeon 17, Plaka, Tel: 210.322.9031 Museum of Children’s Art Kodrou 9, Plaka, Tel: 210.331.2621 childrensartmuseum.gr Summit The Wall Sport Climbing Center Ag. Athanasiou 12, Pallini, Tel: 210.603.0093, summit.gr Westin Kids Club Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni, Tel: 210.890.2000 http://www.westinathens.com/en/westin_kids_club/

Just for kids

Galleries

A. Antonopoulou Art Aristofanous 20, Psyrri Tel: 210.321.4994 Artzone 42 42 Vas. Konstantinou, Athens, Tel: 210 725 9549 Astrolavos Dexameni Xanthippou 11, Kolonaki Tel: 210.729.4342 Astrolavos ArtLife Irodotou 11, Kolonaki Tel: 210.722.1200 Athens Art Gallery Glykonos 4, Dexameni Sq., Athens, Tel: 210 721 3938 Bernier/Eliades Gallery Eptachalkou 11, Thissio, Tel: 210.341.3935 (The) Breeder Gallery Iasonas 45, Metaxurgeio, Tel: 210.331.7527 Ekfrasi Gallery Valaoritou 9a,Tel: 210 360 7598 Eleni Marneri Galerie Lebessi 5-7& Porinou 16, Acropolis Tel: 210.8619.488 EMST National Museum of Contemporary Art Vas. Georgiou B 17 - 19 & Rigilis Athens, Tel: 210 9242 111-3 Gagosian Gallery Merlin 3, Athens, Tel: 210 364 0215 K-Art Gallery Sina 54, Athens, Tel: 211.401.3877 Kalfayan Gallery Haritos 11, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.721.7679 Kourd Gallery Kassiani 2-4, Athens, Tel: 210.642.6573 Skoufa Gallery Skoufa 4, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.360.3541 Stavros Mihaliaras Art 260 Kifissias & Diligianni, Kifissia Tel: 210.623.0928 Thanassis Frisssiras Gallery Kriezotou 7, Athens, Tel: 210. 364.0288 The Art Foundation (TAF) Normanou 5, Monastiraki, Tel: 210.323.8757 The Eynard Mansion Aghiou Konstantinou 20 & Menandrou, Athens, Tel: 210 322 1335 Titanium Yiayiannos Vas. Konstantinou 44, Pangrati, Tel: 210.729.7644 Xippas Gallery Sofokleous 53D, Athens, Tel: 210 331 9333

visiting. Technopolis (Gazi) a 19th century gas factory turned major cultural centre for performing arts and installation works.

Pireos 100 & Ermou, Gazi. Tel: 210.346.1589.

Hadrian’s Arch a Roman arch that marked the boundary of ancient Athens and the new city. Located at the corner of Vas. Olgas and Amalias Avenues. Lykavittos Hill is the highest point in Athens. Take the teleferique from the top of Ploutarchou St. Odeon of Herod Atticus built in 161 AD, this is where the Athens Festival takes place. Accessible for €1.50 and open daily from 8:30am. Panathenian Stadium “Kalimarmaro”was the site of the first modern Olympics in 1896. Located at Vassileos Konstantinou and Agras, across from the National Garden. Pnyx Hill here, for the first time in history, every citizen could vote, giving Pnyx the name the “birthplace of democracy”. Close by is the beautiful Old Observatory. Presidential Palace formerly the Royal Palace, this building is used by the President of Greece to host dignitaries. Irodou Attikou Street. Stoa of Attalos shopping arcade built in the 2nd century BC and totally reconstructed in the 1950s. Tues-Sun 8:30am-3pm. Admission to the Agora and museum €3.50. Adrianou 24. Tel: 210.321.0185 Syntagma (Constitution Square) is the heart of the city and the best spot for new visitors to orient themselves. The Evzones, dressed in traditional uniforms, guard the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier in front of the Parliament. The changing-of-the-guard ceremony takes place every hour. Temple of Olympian Zeus once the largest temple in ancient Greece, its ruins lie just behind Hadrian's Arch. Mon-Sun 8am-7:30pm. €2.00. Vas. Olgas and Amalias Avenues, Tel: 210.922.6330. Theatre of Dionysus built in the 5th century BC is where the plays of Aristophanes, Euripides, Aeschylus and Sophocles were first performed.

Tower of Winds the octagonal tower, representing the eight directions of the wind, was built in the 1st century BC by the Syrian astronomer Andronicus. Mon-Sun 8am-7pm. Just east of the Ancient Agora.

Tel: 10.324.5220.

Museums

Tel: 210.322.9705

Cultural venues

ASSOCIATION OF GUIDES

Zoumboulakis Gallery Kolonaki Square 20, Kolonaki Tel: 210.360.8278 Zoumboulakis Gallery Kriezotou 6, Syntagma, Tel: 210.363.4454

Sites Theatres

ORGANISED TOURS

insider athens | March - April 2015 55

partner hotels ARION RESORT & SPA

ATHENS HILTON

COCO-MAT HOTEL NAFSIKA

DIVANI PALACE ACROPOLIS

The legendary beauty resort is part of Starwood Hotels and Resorts.

Breathtaking views of the Saronic Gulf, elegant and sophisticated décor in all 123 rooms and suites, private swimming pools and beaches, spa and gourmet restaurants.

Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni.

Tel: 210.890.2000

508 renovated rooms, two pools, banquet rooms restaurants, convention facilities, business centre & spa. The rooftop Galaxy bar has gorgeous city views.

Vas. Sofias 46, Kesariani.

Tel: 210.728.1000

Located in Kifissia, the hotel offers an unforgettable experience thanks to COCO-MAT‘s unique sleep systems in its 22 guest rooms, power breakfast, bike rids and herb garden.

Pellis 6, Kifissia. Tel: 210.801.8027

Located at the base of the Acropolis and close to Plaka. Pool with bar, roof garden restaurant with Acropolis view.

Parthenonos 19-25 Makrigianni, Acropolis.

Tel: 210.928.0100

ATHENAEUM INTERCONTINENTAL ATHENS

ATHENS LEDRA HOTEL

Crowne plaza

GRANDE BRETAGNE

543 rooms with renovated Deluxe rooms and suites. Dedicated business centre facilities and 3.500 m2 of extensive & flexible meeting space. New I-Spa and renovated gym. Award winning restaurants.

Syngrou 89-93, Neos Kosmos.

Tel: 210.920.6000

314 deluxe guest rooms, 18 suites.

Rooftop swimming pool and bar, health club, Polynesian - Tepanyiaki Restaurant, Ledra Kai and sports bar.

Syngrou 115, Neos Kosmos.

Tel: 210.930.0000

Newly renovated, at a very convenient location attracts both business and leisure travellers. Amenities include restaurant, bar, rooftop swimming pool, conference and business facilities, garage parking.

Michalakopoulou 50, Athens.

Tel: 210.727.8000

This city landmark is part of Starwood Hotels and Resorts. All 265 rooms and 56 suites are decorated with original artwork and antiques. Reception areas, ballrooms, roof garden with Acropolis view. Luxury spa, indoor and outdoor pools.

Syntagma Sq. Tel: 210.333.0000

ATHENIAN CALLIRHOE HOTEL

CIVITEL ATTIK

DIVANI APOLLON PALACE & SPA

Holiday Inn Attica Avenue

66 state-of the-art rooms, 15 executive rooms and 3 suites. The acclaimed Etrusco Restaurant serves top quality Mediterranean cuisine.

Kallirois 32 & Petmeza, Neos Kosmos.

Tel: 210.921.5353

A tranquil first-class business, sports and family hotel set in the leafy green suburb of Maroussi, with a swimming pool, conference facilities and spacious restaurant with terrace.

Eptalofou 13 – 15, Maroussi. Τel: 210.610.1000

Located seaside with a magnificent view of the Saronic Gulf. All rooms with balconies and sea views. Indoor and outdoor pools, boutiques, beauty parlor, business centre and spa.

Ag. Nikolaou 10 & Iliou, KavouriVouliagmeni. Tel: 210.891.1100

New five-star property on Attica Avenue linking Athens with the international airport. State-of-the art conference facilities, restaurant, two bars, pool and fitness center.

40.2 km Attica Road, between exits 17 & 18, Spata. Tel: 210.668.9000

ATHENS ELECTRA PALACE HOTEL

CIVITEL OLYMPIC

DIVANI CARAVEL

Holiday Suites

Located in historic Plaka beneath the Acropolis. Facilities include bar, restaurant, spa area with indoor swimming pool, business centre, garden and underground parking.

N. Nikodimou 18-20, Plaka.

Tel: 210.337.0000

Right across the Olympic Stadium, its Superior Rooms and Junior Suites are fitted with modern amenities, from free minibar to free wifi internet access and interactive tv.

Kifissias 2A & Pantanassis, Maroussi.

Tel: 210.680.1900

Situated close to major tourist attractions with, rooftop restaurant and swimming pool.

Vas. Alexandrou 2, Kesariani.

Tel: 210.720.7000

Elegant, all-suite hotel offering high standard accommodation. Each suite provides guests with a separate living room and kitchenette.

Arnis 4, Ilissia.

Tel: 210.727.8000

56 insider athens | March - April 2015

partner hotels KEFALARI SUITES

METROPOLITAN

Royal Olympic

THEOXENIA PALACE HOTEL

Turn-of-the-century hotel in Kifissia, part of YES! Hotels.Themed suites with modern facilities.

Pentelis 1, Kifissia.

Tel: 210.623.3333

Beautifully renovated property with views of the sea and the Acropolis. Ten minutes from central Athens, the port of Piraeus and main exhibition centers.

Syngrou Av. 385, P. Faliro.

Tel: 210.947.1000

Near the Acropolis Museum. 265 rooms and 45 unique Panorama Suites, overlooking the Temple of Zeus and the Acropolis. Pool, business center, convention and banquet facilities. Roof Garden Restaurant/Bar “Ioannis”. 28-34, Ath. Diakou Str., Acropolis Tel: 210.928.8400

In an elegant neoclassical building, this hotel has a restaurant, gym, sauna and outdoor pool. Business centre, internet & conference facilities.

Filadelfeos 2, Kifissia.

Tel: 210.623.3622

KING GEORGE

NEW

SEMIRAMIS

THE MARGI

Situated in the heart of the city, it’s 102 guest rooms and suites are elegantly furnished and natural wood floors. Meeting & Conference spaces, restaurants with panoramic views. Vas. Georgiou A’ 3.

Syntagma Sq. Tel: 210.322.2210

Designed by the Campana brothers, NEW, the latest venture of YES! Hotels has 79 luxury rooms, including 18 Studios and 6 Junior Suites. NEW Taste, is the Hotel’s innovative restaurant concept.

Filellinon 16, Syntagma.

Tel: 210.3273000

YES! Hotel designed by Karim Rashid.

51 luxury rooms, 4 suites and 6 poolside bungalows. Ultra-trendy bar-restaurant.

Harilaou Trikoupi 48, Kefalari-Kifissia.

Tel: 210.628.4400

Boutique hotel with 90 spacious rooms and suites and great views to the sea and pine forests. Baku Restaurant offers a unique dining experience while Malabar and the Lobby lounge are perfect for a glass of champagne.

Close to the lake, beach and tennis courts.

Litous 11, Vouliagmeni. Tel: 210.892.9000

LIFE GALLERY

NJV athens plaza

SOFITEL ATHENS AIRPORT

THE WESTIN ATHENS

Modern architecture finds its expression in a minimalist designed building with discreet swimming pools, Zen gardens and ethnic elements. The hotel offers 29 spacious, luxury rooms, including 3 art studios and 2 suites and a spa and fitness centre.

Thiseos Avenue 103, Ekali. Tel: 211.106.7400

Boutique-style hotel with 182 rooms including 23 suites with breathtaking views of the Acropolis, ideally located in the heart of the business and shopping district within walking distance of Plaka. 2, Vas.Georgiou A’ St, Syntagma Sq. Tel: 210 3352400

Airport hotel. Executive floor, business center and conference facilities. Two bars and two restaurants. Health club and covered swimming pool.

Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport, Spata. Tel: 210.354.4000

Part of the Astir Palace Complex with 162 guest rooms and suites and views of the Saronic Gulf. Sea view lounges, trendy bars, fusion and Mediterranean cuisine restaurants and private gazebos by an Olympic-sized pool.

Apollonos 40, Vouliagmeni. Tel: 210.890.2000

MELIÁ ATHENS

NOVOTEL

ST. GEORGE LYCABETTUS HOTEL

TITANIA HOTEL

Located in the heart of Athens with 136 luxury rooms, spacious dining areas, a modern health club and views of historic monuments.

Chalkokondili 14 & 28th Octovriou, Acropolis.

Tel: 210.332.0100

Located in the center of Athens. Two Bars/Restaurants at outdoor Rooftop Pool & lobby area, play area, gym, free indoor parking, free Wi-Fi and panoramic view from the Roof Garden.

4-6 Michail Voda Street, Vathis Square.

Tel: 210.820.0700

Located in the upper part of Kolonaki, not far from the Lycabettus (Lykavittos) funicular railway. Excellent restaurant, Le Grand Balcon. Rooftop swimming pool.

Kleomenous 2, Dexamenis Square, Kolonaki. Tel: 210.741.6000

Located in the heart of the historical and commercial center. The recently refurbished suites and rooms combine style with comfort. Awarded Gourmet Restaurant “Olive Garden”, underground garage, fitness center. Panepistimiou 52, Omonoia, Tel: 210.332600

insider athens | March - April 2015 57

partner hotels TwentyOne

Herodion

SANTORINI

COSTA NAVARINO The Westin Resort Costa Navarino

MYSTIQUE

A five minute walk to Plaka. 90 guest rooms, meeting facilities and a lovely atrium bar-coffee shop.

Rovertou Galli 4, Makrigianni.

Tel: 210.923.6832

Inspired by old Messinian mansions, its 445 deluxe rooms, suites, 123 with private infinity pools, offer access to an extensive common pool areas, and reflect Westin’s soothing aesthetic.

Navarino Dunes Costa Navarino, Pilos Messinia, Tel: 27230.95000

Mystique is an 18 villa hotel, designed by Frank Le Fevbre.

Mystique, Oia. Tel. 22860.71114

AVA HOTEL & SUITES

HOTEL ELECTRA

The Romanos, a Luxury Collection Resort

The Tsitouras Collection Hotel

Luxurious apartments and suites in Plaka. Magnificent views of the Acropolis, Hadrian’s Arch and Zeus Temple. Short walk to Syntagma.

Lysikratous 9-11, Plaka.

Tel: 210.325.9000

Within walking distance from all archaeological sites, business and commercial districts. Includes bar, restaurant, lobby and meeting areas.

Ermou 5, Syntagma Sq. Tel: 210.337.8000

289 exquisitely appointed rooms and 32 suites with individual infinity pools.

Traditional Greek design with contemporary touches.

Navarino Dunes Costa Navarino, Pilos Messinia, Tel: 27230.96000

Art and hospitality are graciously combined in the unique backdrop of a dramatic landscape.

Firostefani, Santorini Tel: 22860.23747

amarilia hotel

PERISCOPE HOTEL

A member of YES! Hotels. Modern design and simple architectural charm.

16 ergonomically designed rooms and 5 loft suites. “21” Bar Restaurant for indoor and outdoor dining.

Kolokotroni 21, Kifissia Tel: 210.623.3521

A CATEGORY

evia

VEDEMA

THERMAE SYLLA wellness hotel

An excellent choice for business and leisure travellers. 100 renovated rooms and suites with great sea views, meeting and banqueting facilities, outdoor swimming pool.

Ag. Nikolaou 13 Vouliagmeni.

Tel. 210 8990391

17 rooms, 4 junior suites and a super-lux penthouse suite. Part of YES! Hotels.

Haritos 22, Kolonaki.

Tel: 210.729.7200

Fresh Hotel

Philippos

Voted one of the ten best spas in the world, it has 101 rooms, 7 Suites and 1 presidential suite with an incredible sea view. 2 restaurants offer traditional Mediterranean cuisine Posidonos 2, Edipsos, Evia. Tel. 22260.60100

Vedema has 45 rooms converted from a 100 year old neo-classical captain’s house and a private swiming pool for all the suites. Vedema, Megalohori.

Tel: 22860.81796

PATMOS

SYROS

Patmos Aktis Suites & Spa

Situated in the heart of old Athens within walking distance of the Plaka. Enjoy the Orange Bar, rooftop restaurant and pool.

Sophocleous 26 & Klisthenous, Omonoia.

Tel: 210.524.8511

Recently refurbished, all 50 rooms are well-appointed and comfortable. Good value for money.

Mitseon 3, Acropolis.

Tel: 210.922.3611-4

58 insider athens | March - April 2015

A 5-star luxury hotel situated only a few steps from Grikos beach. Considered possibly the best located hotel in Patmos.

Patmos, Grikos Bay. Tel: 22470.32800

VILLA SELENA

A luxurious five-star boutique hotel with suitably equipped rooms and suites to ensure a comfortable stay. The spacious terrace with a panoramic view is ideal for breakfast or drinks Tel. 22810 86007, www.villaselena.eu

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AUDIOVISUAL OTE video conference service 7.30am-10pm. Patission 85.

Tel: 210.883.8578, 210.822.0399

Commercial Office spaces Regus Tel: 210 727 9000 Global Business Services Tel: 210.876.4876 Kifissias Ave. 90, Maroussi

COURIER SERVICES

ACS Asklipiou 25, Kryoneri Tel: 210.819.0000 DHL Tel: 210.989.0000 Express City S. Trikoupi 71, Athens, Tel: 210.821.9959 Geniki Taxydromiki Kifissou 14, Renti, Tel: 210.485.1100 Speedex Seneka 24, 15klm Athinon-Lamias, Kifissia Tel: 801.110.0011 UPS 4klm Peanias-Markopoulou Av., Koropi Tel: 210.998.4000

Driving Schools in English Trochokinisi Driving School 28th Oktovriou 126, Ambelokipi, Thessaloniki Tel: 231 072 9092 Driving School Highway Amfitheas and Ag. Triados 30, 175 64 P. Faliro, Tel: 210.988.8098, 699.772.2777 Vlachos Bros 25th Martiou 20, Peristeri; Xenofodos 17, Peristeri; Afroditis 39, Ilion Tel: 210.574.4895, 210.576.9190

Relocation Agencies Allied Pickfords Mourouzi 7, Athens Tel: 210.610.4494 Athens Relocation Centre Zakynthou 10, Glyfada Tel: 210.965.0697 Attica Movers Syngrou Ave. 19, Neos Kosmos, Tel: 210 922 7221 Celebrity International Movers Kapodistriou Ave. 102, Nea Ionia Tel: 210 272 0106 Corporate Relocations Athens Ag. Saranta 32, Nea Erithrea Tel: 210.800.3510 Orphee Beinoglou 27th km Old National Road AthensKorinth Location Elefsinia, Elefsina Tel: 210.946.6100 Octopus Relocation Services Ygeias 7, Marina Zeas, Tel: 210.459.9530

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60 insider athens | March - April 2015

TRANSLATIONS / INTERPRETING Global Business Services Kifisias 90, Maroussi, Tel: 210.876.4876 IBS - International Business Services Michalakopoulou 29, Kaissariani Tel: 210.724.5541

Travel Agencies Travel Plan Christou Lada 3, Athens Tel: 210.333.300, www.travelplan.gr Amphitrion Kyprou 46 & Ploutarhou, Dafni Tel: 210.900.6000, www.amphitrionholidays.gr TravelPlanet24 Karagiorgi Servias 4, Syntagma Tel: 211 107 9684, www.travelplanet24.com Mid-east Travel Vas Sofias 105-107, Ampelokipoi Tel: Tel: 211.211.8888, www.mideast.gr

Embassies Cultural Institutes

Business services

useful information

French Institute Sina 31, 10680 Athens Tel: 210.339.8600 Hellenic American Union Massalias 22, 10680 Athens, Tel: 210.368.0900 British Council Kolonaki Square 17 106 73 Athens Tel: 210.369.2333 Instituto Cervantes Mitropoleos 23, 105 57 Athens Tel: 210.363.4117 Goethe Institut Omirou 14-16, 100 33 Athens Tel: 210.366.1000 Onassis Cultural Centre Syngrou Ave. 107-109, 117 45 Athens, Tel: 213.017.8000 Instituto Italiano di Cultura Patission (28 Oktovriou) 47 Tel: 210.369.2333, 210.524.2646 ALBANIA Vekiareli 7, Filothei, Tel: 210.687.6200 ALGERIA Vas. Constantinou 14, Athens Tel: 210.756.4191-2 ARGENTINA Vas. Sophias 59, Athens Tel: 210.724.4158 ARMENIA K. Palaiologou 95, Athens, Tel: 210.683.1130, 210.683.1145 AUSTRALIA Kifisias & Alexandras, Ampelokipoi Tel: 210.870.4000 AUSTRIA Vas. Sofias Av. 4, Athens, Tel: 210.725.7270

AZERBAiJAN Skoufa 10, Athens, Tel: 210.363.2721 BELGIUM Sekeri 3, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.360.0314 BOSNIA AND HERZEGOVINA Hatzikosta 3, Athens, Tel: 210.641.0788 BRAZIL Vassilis Sofias 23, Athens Tel: 210.721.3039 BULGARIA Stratigou Kallari 33A, P. Psychico. Tel: 210.674.8105 CANADA Ioanni Gennadiou 4, Athens, Tel: 210.727.3400 CHILE Rigilis 12, Athens, Tel: 210.729.2647 CHINA Krinon 2A, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.672.3282 CROATIA Tzavella 4, N. Psychico, Tel: 210.677.7033 CUBA Sofokleous 5, Filothei, Tel: 210.685.5550 CYPRUS Xenofontos 2A, Athens, Tel: 210.373.4800 CZECH REPUBLIC G. Seferi 6, P. Psychico. Tel: 210.671.9701 DENMARK Mourouzi 10, Athens, Tel: 210.725.6440 EGYPT Vas. Sofias 3, Syntagma, Tel: 210.361.8612 ESTONIA Messoghion 2-4, Ampelokipoi, Tel: 210.747.5660 FINLAND Hatziyianni Mexi 5, Athens, Tel: 210.725.5860 FRANCE Vas. Sofias 7, Syntagma, Tel: 210.339.1000 FYROM Papadiamanti 4, P. Psychico.

Tel: 210.674.9585 GEORGIA Ag. Dimitriou 24, P. Psychico. Tel: 210.674.2186 GERMANY Karaoli & Dimitriou 3, Athens, Tel: 210.728.5111 HUNGARY Karneadou 25, Kolonaki Tel: 210.725.6800 INDIA Kleanthous 3, Mets, Tel: 210.721.6481 INDONESIA Marathonodromon 99, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.2345 IRAN Stratigou Kallari 16, Patisia, Tel: 210.674.1436 IRAQ Mazaraki 4, Psychico, Tel: 210.677.8276 IRELAND Vas. Konstantinou 7, Mets, Tel: 210.723.2405 ISRAEL Marathonodromon 1, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.670.5500 ITALY Sekeri 2, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.361.7260 JAPAN Ethnikis Antistaseos 46, Halandri.

Tel: 210.670.9900 JORDAN Papadiamanti 21. P. Psychico.

Tel: 210.674.4161 Kazakhstan Imittou 122, Papagou Tel: 210.654.7765 KOREA Messoghion 2-4, Athens.

Tel: 210.698.4080

Ambulance Tel: 166 Doctors SOS Tel: 1016.

They will issue an invoice to claim reimbursement from your insurer.

Ipirou 1, Athens.

Duty Pharmacies Call 1434, Also check newspapers for listings.

Emergency Hospitals Tel: 1434 Fire Brigade Tel: 199 Forest Fire Tel: 191 Poison Hotline Tel: 210.779.3777 Police Tel: 100 Tourist Police Tel: 171 Coast Guard Tel:108 Air Police Tel: 210.964.2000

ROAD ASSISTANCE ELPA Tel: 10400 Emergency Service Tel: 104 Express Service Tel: 154 Hellas Service Tel: 1057 Interamerican Tel: 1158

EUROCLINIC PAEDON Lemessou 39-41 & Aharnon 209, Kato Patissia, Tel: 210.869.1900 PAEDON AGIA SOFIA HOSPITAL Mikras Asias and Thivon, Goudi. Tel: 210.746.7000 PAEDON AGLAIA KYRIAKOU HOSPITAL Livadias 3 and Thivon, Goudi. Tel: 210.772.6000 & 1535

Private Hospitals Advanced Medical Services, Symmetria Building Ethnikis Antistaseos 66, Halandri.

Tel: 210.677.3573 www.symmetria.gr CENTRAL CLINIC OF ATHENS Asklipiou St. 31, Athens, Emergency number 1169 or Tel: 210.367.4000 www.centralclinic.gr EUROCLINIC Diagnostic, surgical and treatment centre.

Athanasiadou 9, Athens, (near Mavili Sq.), Tel: 210.641.6600 EURODENTICA Specialized dental care Patision 150, Athens, Tel: 210.866.3367-8 Alamanas 3, Maroussi, Athens, Tel: 210.619.5760-1, El. Venizelou 162, Kallithea, Athens, Tel: 210.956.5365 YGEIA Kifissias & E. Stavrou 4, Maroussi, Tel: 210.686.7000, www.ygeia.gr IATRIKO KENTRO (ATHENS MEDICAL CENTER) Areos 36, P. Faliro.

Tel: 210.989.2100-20. Distomou 5-7, Maroussi. Tel: 210.619.8100 METROPOLITAN HOSPITAL Ethnarou Makariou 9 & El. Venizelou, N. Faliro. Tel: 210.480.9000 www.metropolitan-hospital.gr IASO Kifissias 37-39, Maroussi.

Tel: 210.618.4000 MITERA Kifissias & E. Stavrou 6, Maroussi. Tel: 210.686.9000

public Hospitals ASKLEPIEION HOSPITAL Vas. Pavlou 1, Voula. Tel: 210.895.8301-4 EVANGELISMOS Ypsilantou 45-47, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.720.1000 KAT HOSPITAL Nikis 2, Kifissia, Tel: 210.628.0000 Specialized trauma unit.

TZANNEIO Afentouli & Tzani, Pireaus, Tel: 210.451.9411-9

PHYSICIANS (ENGLISH SPEAKING) Ioannis Bitzos, MD Plastic & Reconstructive Surgery, Harilaou Trikoupi 62, Kifissia, Tel: 210.808.0682 A.J. Kanellopoulos, MD Eye Surgeon, Tsoha 17, Athens, Tel: 210.747.2777 Dimitris Linos, MD FACS General Surgeon, Kifissias 227, Kifissia, Tel: 210.612.5001-2 heart & vascular centrE E.N. Deliargyris, MD FACC FSCAI Interventional cardiologist. Southern Athens. Vakchou 2 & Vas. Kostantinou, Tel: 210.897.6276, www.heartline.gr

English media

EMERGENCY NUMBERS

Paediatric Hospitals

Newspapers The International New York Times carries the English version of Kathimerini Athens Insider, the bi-monthly magazine for Greece

Radio Athens International Radio 104,4 Good Morning Athens at 10am, english programs at 11am, music programs on weekdays at 9pm, weekends at 1pm. Peiraios 100, Athens, Tel: 210.341.1610

Schools

Greek Language

SWEDEN Vas. Konstantinou 7, Athens, Tel: 210.726.6100 SWITZERLAND Iasiou 2, Evaggelismos, Tel: 210.723.0364-6 TAIWAN Marathonodromon 57, Psychico, Tel: 210.677.5122 Representative office THAILAND Marathorodromon 25 & Kyprou, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.9065 TUNISIA Antheon 2, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.671.7590 TURKEY Vas. Georgiou B’ 8, Athens, Tel: 210.726.3000 UKRAINE Stephanou Delta 4, Filothei, Tel: 210.680.0230 UAE Kifissias Av. 290 & N. Paritsi 2, Tel: .210.677.0220 UK Ploutarchou 1, Athens, Tel: 210.727.2600 USA Vas. Sofias 91, Athens, Tel: 210.721.2951 URUGUAY Menandrou 1, Kifissia, Tel: 210.361.3549 VATICAN Mavili 2, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.3598 VENEZUELA Marathonodromon 19, P. Psychico. Tel: 210.672.9169 VIETNAM Yakinthon 50, Psychico, Tel. 210.612.8733, 210.675.3080.

Emergencies

KUWAIT Marathonodromon 27, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.3593 LEBANON 6, 25th Martiou, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.675.5873 LIBYA Vyronos 13, P. Psychico, Tel: 210.674.2120 LITHUANIA Vas. Sophias 49, Kolonaki Tel: 210.729.4356 LATVIA Vas. Konstantinou 38, Athens Tel. 210.729.4483 LUXEMBOURG Vas. Sofias 23A & Neofitou Vamva 2, Syntagma Tel: 210.725.6400 MALTA V. Sofias 96, Athens, Tel: 210.778.5138 MEXICO Filikis Etaireias Sq. 14, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.729.4780 MOLDAVIA Georgiou Bacu 20, Filothei.

Tel: 210.699.0660 MOROCCO Marathonodromon 5, P. Psychico. Tel: 210.674.4210 NETHERLANDS Vas Konstantinou 5-7, Mets, Tel: 210.725.4900 NIGERIA Dolianis 65, Maroussi, Tel: 210.802.1188 NORWAY Vas. Sofias 23, Kolonaki, Tel: 210.724.6173 PAKISTAN Loukianou 6, Evaggelismos, Tel: 210.729.0122 PALESTINE Giassemion 13, P. Psychico. Tel.: 210.672.6061-3 PANAMA Praxitelous 192 & II Merarchias, Piraeus, Tel: 210.428.6441 PERU Semitelou 2, Athens, Tel: 210.779.2761 PHILIPPINES Antheon 26, P. Psychico.

Tel: 210.672.1837 POLAND Chrysanthemon 22, P. Psychico. Tel: 210.679.7700 PORTUGAL Vas. Sofias 23, Kolonaki Tel: 210.729.0096 / 210.723.6784 QATAR Perikleous 2 & Kifissias Av. 212, N. Psychico, Tel: 210.725.5031 ROMANIA Emm. Benaki 7, P. Psychico. Tel: 210.672.8875 RUSSIA Nikiforos Lytra 28, P. Psychico. Tel: 210.672.5235 SAUDI ARABIA Palaiologhou 2 & Agias Annis, Halandri, Tel: 210.671.6911 SERBIA Vas. Sophias 106, Athens, Tel: 210.777.4344 SINGAPORE Aigialias 17, Paradissos Amaroussiou. Tel: 210.684.5072 SLOVAK REPUBLIC G. Seferi 4, P. Psychico. Tel: 210.677.1980 SLOVENIA Kifissias Av. 280 & Dimokratias 1, N. Psychico, Tel: 210.672.0090-091 SOUTH AFRICA Kifissias 60, Maroussi.

Tel: 210.610.6645 SPAIN Dionysiou Areopagitou 21, Plaka, Tel: 210.921.3123

Health

useful information

The Athens Center 48 Archimidous Street, Mets, Athens 11636, Greece Tel: 210.701.5242 CELT Athens 77 Academias Street, 106 78 Athens, Greece, Tel: 210.330.1455 Greek House Dragoumi 7, 145 61 Kifissia, Tel: 210.808.5186 Hellenic American Union 22 Massalias str., 106 80 Athens, Tel: 210.368.0900 Omilo Greek Language And Culture Panagi Tsaldari 13 (4th floor), 15122 Maroussi, Tel: 210.612.2706

insider athens | March - April 2015 61

useful information

Universities University of Indianapolis Ipitou 9, Athens, Tel: 210.323.6647 DEREE Gravias 6, Aghia Paraskevi, Tel: 210.600.9800

Citizen’s Rights Ombudsman: 5 Hatziyiannis Mexis (near the Hilton Hotel), Tel: 210 72 89 640 ALBA Graduate Business School Athinas Ave. & Areos 2A, Vouliagmeni Tel: 210.896.4531 American University of Athens Kifisias & Sochou 4, Neo Psichiko, Tel: 210.725.9301 Business College of Athens Tatoiou 2 & Othonos 77, Kifissia Tel: 210.808.8008

62 insider athens | March - April 2015

English kindergartens The Cottage Kindergarten Psaron 74, Halandri Tel: 210.682.7629 Early Learning Rizountos 53, Elliniko Tel: 210.961.8763 Hopscotch International Kindergarten Ag. Triandos 93, Vari Tel: 210.965.3985 Learning Steps Ath. Diakou 81 & Ydras 5, Kifissia, Tel: 210.620.5818 Melina’s Kindergarten Harilaou Trikoupi 16, Kifissia Tel: 210.801.2719 Peek-a-boo PreSchool Vougliameni Tel: 210.967.1970 Peter Pan Lakonias 4-6, Voula Tel: 210.895.9654 Prince Allen The English Nursery School Lysimahou 8, Vari Tel: 210.965.6800

German kindergartens

Money

International Schools

St Catherine's British Embassy School Sofoklis Venizelou 77, Lykovrissi Tel: 210.282.9750 St. Lawrence College Anemon St, Koropi Tel: 210.891.7000 American Community Schools of Athens Aghias Paraskevis Ave. 129, Halandri, Tel: 210.639.3200 Campion School Aghias Ioulianis, Pallini Tel: 210.607.1700 Byron College Filolaou 7, Gerakas Tel: 210.604.7722 International School of Athens Xenias and Artemidos, Kifissia, Tel: 210.623.3888 Lycée Franco-Hellénique Eugène Delacroix Chlois & Trikalon, Ag. Paraskevi Tel: 211.300.9121 Scuola Statale Italiana Odos Mitsaki 18, Ano Patissia Tel: 210.228.2720 German School in Athens Homatianou & Ziridi, Maroussi Tel: 210.619.9261 Greek German School 25 Martiou & Vernardou, Vrylissia Tel: 210.682.0566

Weather Attica, Tel: 148, www.hnms.gr

Italian Institut Library Patision 47, Omonia National Library Tzavella 25, Syntagma, Tel: 210.382.0657 Nordic Library 7 Kavalotti St, Makrigianni Tel: 210.924.9210, 210.924.9211

LOST OR STOLEN CREDIT CARDS

Post offices operate weekdays 8am-2pm. The main post offices in Athens are located at SYNTAGMA SQUARE and OMONIA SQUARE at Aeolou 100 and open weekdays 7:30am-8pm, Sat 7:30am-2pm, and Sun 9am-1:30pm.

O mikros Antonis Barbayiannis, Pallini, Tel: 210.603.2527

Italian kindergartens Scuola maternal italiana de Atene Mitsaki 18, Ano Patissia, Tel: 210.202.0274 Il Mulino magico Troados 23, Ag Paraskevi, Tel: 210.600.3148 American School of Classical Studies Blegen Souedias 54, Athens Tel: 210.723.6313 Athens College Library Stephanou Delta, P. Psychico Tel: 210.679.8100 Benakeios Library Anthimou Gazi 2, Athens Tel: 210.367.1027 British Council Library Kolonaki Sq. 17, Kolonaki Tel: 210.363.3211/5 French Institute Library 31 Sina St, Athens Tel: 210.362.4301 German Archaeological Institute Library Pheidiou 1, Athens Tel: 210.362.0270 Goethe Institute Library Omirou 14-16, Athens Tel: 210.360.8111 Hellenic American Union Greek Library 22 Masalias St (7th floor), Athens, Tel: 210.362.9886

AMERICAN EXPRESS Tel: 210.324.4975 DINERS CLUB Tel: 210.929.0200 MASTERCARD Tel: 00.800.1188.703.03 VISA Tel: 00.800.1163.803.04

Country Code: 30 City Code: 210 international calls first dial 00, then the country code.

To call from a Public pay- phone buy a phone card at the kiosks.

Prepaid mobile phone cards (SIM cards) are available for €5 at kiosks, post offices, mini markets and mobile phone company stores.

Phone

Water Supply & Sewage (EYDAP) In case of water cut: Tel: 1202, www.eydap.gr

Public Services Administration Information Center (paperwork assistance) on weekdays 8am-3pm (KEP): Tel: 177, ww.kep.gov.gr

Au petit bonheur 50 Iraklitou, Glyfada, Tel: 210 9658 207 Les Alouettes Spartis 36 & Harilaou Trikoupi, Kifissia Tel: 210 80 11 570 Mary Poppins 4, Kodrou, Filothei, Tel: 210.677.3803 Paramythia Cycladon 11, Glyka Nera, Tel: 210.600.3196 Play and Learn Kassaveti 22, Kifissia, Tel: 210.801.1428

Libraires

Public Power Corporation (DEI) In case of power failure: Tel: 210, 523 9939 www.dei.gr

Greek Manpower Employment Organization (OAED) www.oaed.gr, Tel: 210 99 89 000

International Kindergartens

Road Assistance ELPA: 104

Social Security & Health insurance (IKA) www.ika.gr

Post

French kindergartens Telephone & Internet Services (OTE) New tel: 138, Tel. (defective): 129 OTE customer service: 134 International call information (English, French & German): 169 www.ote.gr

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Eleftherios Venizelos International Airport, Spata.

Tel: 210.353.0000, 210.353.1000. www.aia.gr.

24 HOUR VIP TRANSPORT SERVICE

Car rental

WSW Skycap Services at Athens Airport provides Meet & Greet, Baggage Hauling and Transport Service.

Tel: 210.353.0100 www.skycap.gr For info about the public bus lines please check our section Getting Around Ada Rent-a-Car Tel: 210.322.0087 Arena Tel: 210.894.6883, 210.614.7400 Auto Union Tel: 210.602.0162 Avis Tel: 210.322.4951 Budget Tel: 210.921.4771-3 Europcar Tel: 210.924.8810-8 Hertz Tel: 210.998.2000 Michael Stamou Luxury Rentals Tel: 210.922.2442/43 Sixt Rent-a-Car Tel: 210.570.6895, 210.922.0171

LIMOUSINES AAA Royal Prestige Tel: 210.988.3221 Astra Limousine Service Tel: 210.922.0333/807.9996 Convecta Travel Agency & Limousine Services Tel: 210.322.5090 Limousines Kacaya Tel: 210.323.4120

Public transport

Airport

Airlines

Aegean Tel: 801.11.20000 Air France KLM Tel: 210.998.0222 Air Malta Tel: 210.965.2300-22 Alitalia Tel: 210.998.8888 American Tel: 210.361.3373 Air Taxis (Helicopter and plane charters) Tel: 210.938.4149 British Airways Tel: 210.353.0453 Continental Tel: 210.353.4312 Cyprus Airways Tel: 210.353.4100 Easy Jet Tel: 211.198.0013 El Al Tel: 210.934.1500-1 Emirates Tel: 210.933.3400 Etihad Tel: 210.324.1010 Iberia www.iberia.com/gr Lufthansa Tel: 210.617.5200 Olympic Airways Tel: 801.801.0101 Qatar Airways Tel: 210.950.8700 Singapore Tel: 210.994.2567 Swiss / Crossair Tel: 210.617.5320 Tunisair Tel: 210.969.6496 Turkish Tel: 210.988.5700

Combined tickets for metro, buses and trolleys (€1,40) are available from metro stations and central ticket booths, valid within 90 mins of validation for all public transport - except the airport service, which costs 8€.

EXPRESS BUS from/to airport

X93 Kifisos Intercity Bus Station - Athens Airport Express.

Direct Connection to the intercity bus (KTEL) terminals KIFISOS and LIOSION X95 Syntagma – Athens Airport Express.

Direct Connection to Syntagma Square at Athens city center.

X96 Peiraias – Athens Airport Express.

Direct Connection to Piraeus central passenger port terminals.

X97 Dafni Metro Station – Athens Airport Express.

Direct Connection to DAFNI metro station. Tickets available at the Arrivals Hall; validate on board. Fare is €5 One-way travel time estimates**: X93 (65’ min), X95 (70’ min), X96 (90’ min), X97 (70’ min).

For further information dial 185 or visit www.oasa.gr, www.ametro.gr. For info on trains visit www.proastiakos.gr

HELLENIC RAILWAYS ORGANIsATION Karolou 1. Tel: 210.529.7002, www.ose.gr

ATHENS METRO Line 1 (Piraeus-Kifissia) 5am-midnight, Line 2 (Agios Antonios-Agios Dimitrios) 5.30am-midnight, Line 3 (Egaleo-

Doukissis Plakentias) 5.30am-midnight Line 3 (Egaleo-Airport) 5.30am-22.52pm and 06.30am-23.30pm.

The last itinerary is 2 hours later on Friday and Saturday night than it is during the week. www.ametro.gr

tram Tram itineraries are only from Syntagma to S.E.F (in Neo Faliro) and from Syntagma to Asklipio Voulas. From Monday to Thursday, trams operate from 5.am until midnight and non-stop from Friday morning to Sunday midnight. www.tramsa.gr

TAXIS from the airport cost about €20 to Syntagma Square, €25 to Piraeus, depending on traffic. Between midnight and 5am double tariff applies.

Note: If you suspect that you have been overcharged, you can call the tourist police 0n 171

INTERCITY BUSES Terminal 1: Buses for Igoumenitsa, Ioannina, Kavala, Loutraki, Patra, the Peloponese, and Thessaloniki. Kifissou 100Tel: 210.512.4910-1, www.ktel.org Terminal 2: Buses for Delphi, Evia, Galaxidi, Karpenisi, Katerini, Lamia, Livadia, Thiva and Volos. Liosion 260.

For KTEL itineraries all over Greece call 14505

RADIO TAXI Enotita Tel: 210.645.9000 Ermis Tel: 210.411.5200 Ikarus Tel: 210.515.2800 Kifissia Tel: 210.801.4000 Piraeus Tel: 210.418.2333 Radio Taxi Glyfada Tel: 210.960.5600 There is a booking fee of €2 added to the meter, and a €3,40 + VAT for a pre-arranged meeting. For PET taxis there is an extra charge of €5.

Sea ports Lavrio Tel: 22920.27711, 22920.22089 Piraeus Tel: 210.422.6000-4 Rafina Tel: 22940.22300, 22940.28888

Sea ports & Ferries

getting around Ferries Ferries run year-round. For information on seasonal schedules contact a travel agent or call the Port Police on 210.422.6000 From the Port of Piraeus Northern and Eastern Aegean Islands: Gates A & B Chios, Ikaria, Lesvos, Samos, Dodecanese Islands: Gate E Kalymnos, Kos Leros, Patmos, Rhodes, Saronic Gulf Islands:

Gates G & E

Aegina, Hydra, Poros, Spetses, Crete: Gate A Aghios Nikolaos, Chania, Iraklio, Kastelli (Kissamos), Rethymno, Cycladic Islands:

Gates B, G & D

Astipalea, Folegandros, Kimolos, Kithnos, Milos, Serifos, Sifnos: Gate B Amorgos, Donoussa, Ios, Iraklia, Koufonissi, Mykonos, Santorini, Schinoussa, Syros, Tinos: Gates G&D Naxos, Paros: Gate G

Superfast Ferries Daily departures, Greece - Italy: from Patras and Igoumenitsa to Ancona and Bari Head office: 23-125 Syngrou Avenue & 3 Torva Street 11745 Athens.

Tel:210.891.9000 Reservations: Athens: 210.891.9130 Thessaloniki: 2310.560.700, www.superfast.com Hellenic Seaways 210 41 99 000 www.hellenicseaways.gr, Anek Lines www.anek.gr Domestic lines: 210 41 97 420 International lines: 210 41 97 430 Minoan Lines www.minoan.gr Tel: 801 11 75 000

YACHT CHARTERS A1 Yacht Trade Consortium Akti Themistokleous 8, Marina Zeas, Piraeus. Tel: 210.458.7100 Ghiolman Yachts Filellinon 7, Syntagma. Tel: 210.323.3696 Northstar Poseidonos 9 & Achilleos, P. Faliro. Tel: 210.988.4000 PGA Shipping Posidonos 61, P. Faliro.

Tel: 210.985.9400 Seahorse Alkyonidon 83 (Marina), Voula.

Tel: 210.895.2212 Seascape Poseidonos Ave. 29, Alimos.

Tel/Fax: 210.985.8301 Valef Yachts Pl. Chatzikonstanti 2, Piraeus. Tel:210.451.2010 Vernicos Yachts Posidonos 11, Kalamaki.

Tel: 210.985.0122-8

insider athens | March - April 2015 63

K A L E I DOSCOP E

Greek feline beauties They are as much a part of Greece’s landscape and its tourist brochures as its century-old monuments: Greek cats. Often lazing in the sun, squinting through cannons, squatting on handbags or loitering around tavernas looking for a handout, Manisha Glaentzer-Tawadey’s lens captures these feral beauties. To find out how you can help stray cats find a home or to volunteer to care for them, check out ninelivesgreece.com

64 insider athens | March - April 2015

insider athens | March - April 2015 65

Let the captivating aromas and fLavors journey you around the worLd

ΜΗ.Τ.Ε.: 0206K015A0021500

Experience a unique ritual within the colonial ambiance of Alexander’s Cigar Lounge, on the 1st floor of the Hotel Grande Bretagne, and enjoy discrete cigar labels and exceptional spirits. Call upon our cigar experts to assist you select the one that best fits your personal taste, either to savor on the spot or to take with you.

Syntagma Square 105 64 Athens, GREECE +30 210 33 30 000 | +30 210 33 30 141 gbrestaurants.gr

66 insider athens | March - April 2015

Operating Hours: 2 p.m. - 2 a.m.

Dress Code: Smart Casual