69 minute read
Take a Look
GCDS Alberto
DOPAMINE DRESSING
Avant Toi
Kashette
Pin 1876 Arys
Fashion treats itself to a high: ecstatic colour combinations, wide prints and logos, batik patterns, and neon pop colours. In step with the comeback of the noughties, everything is loud, expressive, and (finally) cheerful again.
Sportalm
Mou
Mason Garments
LEAVE’EM ON!
Helen Kirkum
“You have to have a pretty thick skin when you do something different. People are going to take shots at you. They’re going to criticise what they don’t understand. […] I just wanted to shake people up a little bit more. I wanted to push it as far as I possibly could without being fired.” – Tinker Hatfield, Air Jordan
Designer at Nike
Copenhagen Studios
Brutal soles with robust XXL profiles and platforms on loafers, boots, and sneakers – the era of athleisure has finally assimilated classic shoe models.
UGG x Feng Chen Wang
Doucal’s
Axel Arigato
K-Swiss
MMX Edelle
U
NBetter Rich DYED
Luxurious slow fashion based on natural materials in their most natural possible state. The minimalist natural look preaches the prevailing credo: Less is more.
Tombolini
American Vintage
Mey
Sportalm Portofiori
VINTAGE MILI TARY
Not So Ape
Silk Sisters
Combined with elements drawn from utility and workwear, it pays homage to original pieces found in archives. Newly discovered, adopted, and interpreted – military styles require a sure instinct.
DRESS … LIKE EVERYBODY’S WATCHING
Second Female Winter dresses in dramatic lengths and romantic designs satisfy womenswear’s current desire to finally be seen again.
Munthe
Gestuz
Joop Des Petits Hauts
By Malene Birger
Drykorn Silk Sisters
Luis Trenker
Shipsheip
A F T
ECoster Copenhagen R EIGHT
Blazers have transcended the readyto-wear departments to become a style statement in their own right – especially for women. As loose double-breasted styles, in oversized cuts, and cinched or belted at the waist, they have come to replace the jacket.
Maison Margiela
Seductive “ Suits and blazers have become somewhat of a fashion item of late. We are currently selling plenty of blazers with a fashionable twist.
The most popular models right now are those featuring expressive shoulders, a cinched waist, or bright colours.” – Tiffany Hsu,
Fashion Buying
Director at
Mytheresa
Cruna Helene Galwas
Birgitte Herskind
Bogner
Heinz Bauer
Esemplare
NO NEED FOR SNOW
Strellson
Bob
Bomboogie Duno
The technical, functional jacket is gradually making way for all-rounders of urban simplicity. They are impervious to market mechanisms such as seasons. While functionality remains, it takes a back seat to the fashion statement.
People of Shibuya
Distretto 12
Sealup
STAY PUFT!
Duno
Peuterey Adhoc
Schneiders
Canadian Classics Handstich
Jackets are once again what they should be: the epitome of comfort, warmth, and protection. Casual cuts, large volumes, and wool qualities in oversized styles. Functional details are not a unique selling point, they set the standards.
Save the Duck
People of Shibuya
Replumè
Absolutely premium: Ben and now represents Peuterey throughout Germany.
Ben and BRAND POWER
Ben, you have some exciting news to share. What is it?
Ben Botas, owner of Ben and: Yes, we are obviously delighted to be able to represent Peuterey in Germany. We now intend to strengthen the positioning of Peuterey as a premium brand, which also affects placement in department stores. We are shifting away from the regular department towards its premium counterpart. The Peuterey collection is divided into several lines, which we will now present in an even more differentiated manner at retail partners. For example, we will detach the design-oriented Plurals line from the main range and exclusively work with five premium retailers in Germany to create a clearer distinction.
You have also expanded once more as an agency.
In Munich, we recently rented an independent showroom for our young brands Na-kd, Gina Trikot, and Minimum. It is located in “Kurfürstenstrasse”, a mere five-minute walk from our main showroom. As in Düsseldorf, we can now also offer each of our three units an individual stage in Munich. Our showroom area now stands at 1,200 square metres and 1,300 square metres in Munich and Düsseldorf respectively.
You introduced Les Visionnaires last season.
It was an instant success. We have already attracted 150 customers, among them prestigious names such as Breuninger, Engelhorn, and Classico. The trendy, high-quality leather bags at retail prices between 150 and 250 Euros are unique and exactly what many customers have been looking for: A 100 percent leather bag brand that offers fresh designs at commercial prices – fairly manufactured to boot! Labels: Axel Arigato, Beck Söndergaard, Chimi, Elias Rumelis, Filippa K., Free People, GCDS, Gina Trikot, Hvisk, La Martina, Les Visionnaires, Limitato, Loci, Masons’s, Minimum, Moose Knuckles, Na-kd, Nu-In, Peuterey, Rag & Bone, Second Female, Stefan Brandt, Wood Ben and, Munich & Düsseldorf/ Germany, agency@ben-and.com, www.ben-and.com
Agentur Evelyn Muth INTERPLAY OF COLOURS
A new arrival at Agentur Evelyn Muth are luxurious bags by Le Tanneur of France, which combine traditional craftsmanship and innovation. “Le Tanneur is a great fit for the German market; customers are ready for something new,” says Christiane Peek, who is successfully running her mother Evelyn Muth’s sales agency after taking over. “The appreciation for quality is returning, which is why durable products are now even more profitable.” Typical for Le Tanneur is the interplay of colours, as evidenced in the Love is Love capsule featuring bags in rainbow colours. Retail prices range from 250 to 550 Euros. The espadrilles by Castaner impress with craftsmanship and exciting design collaborations, most recently with Altuzarra. “I also rely heavily on DKNY. The collection is developing palpably, and the price-performance ratio is convincing,” says Peek. The material of the hour is denim combined with quilted lamb nappa. Colour blocking is also a major trend, as are retro elements in fastenings and knot detailing on straps. Last season’s best performer? “Clergerie,” answers Peek. “We were able to attract prestigious new customers such as Unger and Frauenschuh, and the sales figures prove to us that the creative collection is spot-on.” Labels: Arche, Avril Gau, Castaner, Clergerie, DKNY, L’Autre Chose, Le Tanneur, Maison Mollerus Agentur Evelyn Muth, Düsseldorf/ Germany, info@evelynmuth.de, www.evelynmuth.de
Clergerie impresses with its distinct design language and is manufactured exclusively in France. Scaglione impresses with innovative knitwear.
Room Nine Agency ABOVE AVERAGE
Torsten, what exactly is your focus after the challenging seasons of late?
Torsten Müller, Managing Director of Room Nine Agency: We are focusing on our roots: premium sportswear for men. A new addition is Just Cavalli, a tonguein-cheek couture collection. It is well-conceived, high-quality, and impresses with perfect delivery service. There is a real hype about the t-shirts and sweats, which is why the brand is becoming really popular with men. We believe in it unreservedly!
What else do you believe in?
In the new, cool sportswear by Soho New York, which features plenty of colour and prints with a positive attitude. We also believe in the authentic outerwear by Holubar, which is becoming much more creative and colourful, incorporating innovative, functional materials.
What are your perennial bestsellers?
Moschino Underwear. Sales are above average, especially men’s underwear. Michael Kors underwear is distinctly fashionable, with many designs and a logo on the waistband.
Labels: Holubar, Just Cavalli, Michael Kors Underwear, Moschino Underwear, Ron Dorff, Soho New York Room Nine Agency, Düsseldorf/Germany, torsten. mueller@roomnineagency.de, www.roomnineagency.de
Niklas Rill Fashion Agency
ON POINT
Nik, you are a sales agent who enjoys manning the sales floor.
Niklas Rill, owner of Niklas Rill Fashion Agency: Yes, I only recently had great fun doing just that at Stulz, Daniels, and Mientus. It allows me to learn what makes my brands popular. My job actually intensifies around the time of delivery. Will the goods arrive on time? Where can we help, maybe even exchange goods? Small retailers in particular benefit from that.
Your brands are pushing the womenswear segment.
Yes. In the case of The Nim, womenswear outpaced menswear for the first time this summer. That is unusual for this brand environment. The collection was on point! Retailers want fresh boyfriend styles and balloon fits, complemented by non-denims and cargos. Overshirts and denim blazers are a cool match for that. Scaglione’s knitwear has even tripled sales, as the innovative yarns in great colours allowed me to enthuse many new customers. Bowery is launching a special sweatshirt capsule featuring hoodies and crewnecks for women.
Labels: Bowery, Scaglione, The Nim Standard Niklas Rill Fashion Agency, Düsseldorf/Germany, mail@maend.de, www.niklasrill.de
Franco-Swedish sportswear by Ron Dorff impresses with cut, colour, and quality.
Perfect for everyday use and special occasions alike: Absolut Cashmere.
Michaelis Fashion Agency
SUCCESS STORY
Paul x Claire is back on the market and new to Daniela and René Michaelis’ portfolio. “Due to the pandemic, the success story had to be put on hold a year ago. Now Paul x Claire Donna has returned with new, fresh, and familiar creativity,” says René Michaelis, who represents the brand in Bavaria, Baden-Württemberg, and Hesse. Another addition to the Bavarian portfolio is Goldgarn. Besides accessible models, the premium fashion segment will be further expanded without compromising the label’s DNA. “There is also a charitable aspect in play, because one
Euro is donated to charity for every pair of jeans sold.” Genesis is adding knitwear to its exceptional Southern French-style dresses this autumn. “The sales of Absolut Cashmere have exploded, not least thanks to 30 brilliant colours and a style that is as comprehensible as it is individual,” says Michaelis. “High-fashion cashmere by Crush complements it perfectly.” Labels: Absolut Cashmere, Crush, Genesis, Goldgarn, Paul x Claire, Yippie Hippie Michaelis Fashion Agency, Munich/Germany, mail@michaelis-fashion-agency.com, www.michaelis-fashion-agency.com
Komet und Helden STRONG DIVISIONS
Flo, which brands are new to your portfolio?
Florian Ranft, owner of Komet und Helden: Filson and Spiewak, which completes our urban division featuring brands such as Dickies, Baracuta, and Deus ex Machina. We have separated this segment spatially and assigned it an independent sales team to reflect its different clientele. For Dickies, we maintain a separate showroom for Dickies Lifewear and Dickies Workwear, which means that we address premium and workwear retailers alongside our lifestyle customers. It is an exciting balancing act that works well for the iconic Dickies brand! Our contemporary division remains strong with Barena, Halfboy, and Aspesi. The latter collection is now significantly more fashionable. It has launched a new archive collection featuring new, contemporary interpretations of outerwear icons from the last 20 years. Blauer USA is also evolving with its new B.Tactical line for men, which is a great complement to the Blauer jacket. Sweats and knits, for example, are already performing extraordinarily well. B.Tactical strikes a nerve, because the line combines urban style with the topics of travelling and protection.
You are also strong in outerwear.
ottod’Ame epitomises the total look, but is experiencing strong growth in coats and jackets, which is why we are launching a dedicated outerwear collection for the fashion-informed customer. Save the Duck’s innovation level is also incredible, offering hybrid styles incorporating sweats and knits. The brand is equally powerful in communicating its sustainability. Personally, I believe it is no longer sufficient to merely offer a really good product.
Labels: 7 for all mankind, AG, Aniven, Aspesi, Baracuta, Barena Venezia, Blauer USA, C.T. Plage, Deus ex Machina, Dickies, Filson, Halfboy, Hartford, Le Bonnet, ottod’Ame, Purple Brand, Save the Duck, Seldom, Spiewak, Universal Works, White Sand Komet und Helden, Munich & Düsseldorf/Germany, info@kometundhelden.de, www.kometundhelden.de
A permanent fixture at Komet and Helden: the Aspesi collection. Kashette, a fully integrated Chinese cashmere specialist, is now showing its full potential.
Adventure Fashion Agency NEW STIMULI
Marc Kofler and his Adventure Fashion Agency are always on the lookout for new stimuli. “It is important for us to present new looks that will surprise our customers every season. Last season was excellent: both our established brands and newcomers posted great sales and we could hardly keep up with demand, especially in the outerwear segment.” For the coming season, Adventure Fashion Agency is thrilled to present the expanded Kashette range. The cashmere label, founded in 2020, operates its own goat farm and spinning mill, which makes is unbeatable in terms of quality and reliability. Kofler remembers: “Last season, the owner himself delivered the goods to the first German customers – how great is that?” Another newcomer is Italian sneaker collection W6YZ (just say WIZZ): A combination of perfect fit and typical Italian design, and a colourful alternative to classic white trainers. Labels: Moonstar, Cosy love pure, DL1961 Denim, Duno, Iheart, Janthee Berlin, Kashette, Odd molly, Orciani, Rosa & Me, RR’s, Sebago, Tonno & Panna, Trvl Drss, Trusted Handwork, Urbancode, W6YZ Adventure Fashion Agency, Düsseldorf/Germany, info@adventure-gmbh.de, www.adventure-gmbh.de
Agentur Matthias Schwarte BEST PERFORMANCE
Matthias, you have exciting news.
Matthias Schwarte, owner of Agentur Matthias Schwarte: Yes, we are now also the sales partner for Parajumpers in Austria. Our performance in Germany was clearly convincing. The brand is growing, while we remain selective in our sales strategy and the innovative variety of products is bearing fruit. We are looking forward to presenting the label to German and Austrian customers in our Munich showroom.
Apart from that, you are relying on your existing portfolio.
Weber + Weber is developing very well, especially with the women’s collection gaining momentum. The label is successful with jointly managed spaces at customers such as Sagmeister, Lodenfrey and Jelmoli, where the brand is attracting increasing attention via shop windows and an amplified online presence. The feedback is positive throughout! Daniele Fiesoli is cranking up the pace with the new women’s collection. It is a distinct advantage that the brand is manufactured in Italy, which benefits both quality and delivery reliability.
Labels: Armani Exchange, Balr, Collezione 01, Daniele Fiesoli, Fil Noir, Mason Garments, Parajumpers, People of Shibuya, Replumè, Rubirosa, Sundek, Weber + Weber Agentur Matthias Schwarte, Munich/ Germany, office@agentur-schwarte.de, www.agentur-schwarte.de
Replumè presents a comprehensive collection featuring styles made of recycled down, thus providing an additional selling point. High-quality products, primarily manufactured in Italy, are the core competence of Elvis Fashion Agency.
Elvis Fashion Agency “CLEAR TENDENCY TOWARDS VALUE”
Reflecting on the past season, Elvis Giglione can confidently claim: “There is a clear trend towards value. People are looking for high-quality products now, and my portfolio satisfies that demand very well.” Elvis Fashion Agency continues to rely on highly sought-after products next season: washable jogging suits by Tombolini, as well as the label’s Running series and its Zero Gravity collection. These lines offer exactly what the modern man needs: a blend of high-quality materials, comfort, sportiness, and business look. The Gigi remains focused on jackets in comfortable cuts and “tinto in capo”. Cashmere brand Fioroni impresses with knitwear featuring zippers: sustainable and unsurpassably soft. A new addition to the agency’s portfolio is the men’s collection of Alpha Studio, which Giglione now represents throughout the DACH region. Labels: Alpha Studio, Bagutta, Brooksfield, Capobianco, Cruna, Fioroni Cashmere, Francesco Pieri, Manto, The Gigi, Tombolini Elvis Fashion Agency, Munich/Germany, elvis.giglione@elvis-fashion.com, www.elvisfashion.com
Sassenbach is among the Daily Business brands recently taken over by Patrick Ebnöther.
The Wearhouse “We are delighted to take over the Daily Business portfolio from Annette Bailleux following her recent retirement,”
says Patrick Ebnöther. “It integrates perfectly with our own, meaning we can display everything under one roof. It is a challenging task, but optimal space utilisation and staggered sales times make it possible.” Ebnöther can rely on the support of long-time Bailleux confidant Julia Winkler. The list of brands includes Crush, Dea Kudibal, FFC Cashmere, Sassenbach, Punto 12, Tantä, Via Masini, Velvet, and Wunderfell. www.wearhouse.ch, www.dailybusiness.ch
Agentur Ventrella EXCITEMENT PREVAILS
“The situation remains very exciting, especially as the industry is really revving up now,” says Michele Ventrella. “Our collections offer amazing innovations, on which Gaby has worked closely with the various manufacturers, thus playing a key role in shaping them. As a result, customers can create a coherent mix from the universe of Ventrella brands. One thing is certain: we cannot wait to bring this work to life in our showrooms in Munich and Düsseldorf.” Agentur Ventrella also has Frankfurt on its agenda, by the way. What can customers look forward to? Bazar Deluxe has launched its first menswear collection: Bazar Deluxe Crew. The pieces are inspired by the modern adventurer and consist of knitted elements paired with wool or down. Every item comes in the signature Bazar look: a little Navajo, a little ethno-look, yet always masculine and robust. Avant Toi remains as colourful as ever with very bright and intense colours paired with ultra-soft knitwear looks such as Cashmere Garzato. In addition, the label debuts a genderless collection for the autumn/winter 2022/23 season. Tagliatore is also venturing into new territory with a small capsule of knits for men and women: ten pieces per collection in the finest materials such as cashmere and merino wool. All styles perfectly match the look and DNA of Tagliatore, manufactured by an Italian knitwear specialist. Giemme Brands Corporate will be launching a new line to complement Caliban Donna and Le Sarte Pettegole: Tintoria Mattei Donna. The style is based on the men’s line, conveying a cool, contemporary, and modern fashion statement. Labels: 813, Avant Toi, Backsideclub, Bazar Deluxe, BDL Crew, Bush, Caliban, College, Ennequadro, Giovi, Le Sarte Pettegole, Ndv Project, Nove, Nine in the Morning, Pao, Tagliatore, Tintoria Mattei Donna & Uomo Agentur Ventrella, Munich & Düsseldorf/ Germany, mode@agentur-ventrella.de, www.agentur-ventrella.de
Die Hinterhofagentur SPIRIT OF OPTIMISM
“Every single label we represent is in an optimistic mood,” Dominik Meuer, owner of the Backyard Agency, says happily. “The corona crisis has served as a wake-up call for many. Manuel Ritz, for example, has hired a new creative director to promote innovation, and RRD has appointed a new, experienced export manager who specialises in reorganisation. Bob’s menswear generated excellent sales during the second corona winter, as did Des Petit Hauts’ womenswear. The high-flyer in the upcoming third season is Fourten of Naples, a label which offers contemporary trousers for men at an incredible value for money.” The agency welcomes back Italian blouse label Sophie, which Meuer had already represented in Bavaria a few seasons ago. Now he is in charge for the brand’s sales in the entire German market. “Despite the current difficult retail environment, we sense a positive mood and a great desire for change. That gives us a lot of strength.” Labels: Ad Hoc, Atelier Alpinist, Bob, Bread & Boxers, Fabulous Island, Fourten, Hamlet, Koike, Manuel Ritz, Original Vintage Style, RRD, Portofiori, Prime Shoes, Sophie, Taylor Tweed, Wool & Co Die Hinterhofagentur, Munich/Germany, info@diehinterhofagentur.de, www.diehinterhofagentur.de
Des Petits Hauts guarantees success, especially in the knitwear segment. Model Tara Schwed in loungewear by Onedaybaby, which Meta Pesch markets jointly with Meike Schilcher in Bavaria.
Meta Pesch “Our youngster Mützen
mafia has enjoyed a great start,” says
Meta Pesch. “Along with Daddy’s Daughters, Amuse, Onedaybaby, and Derbe, we now have five excellent horses that make us very happy in our stable.” Meta Pesch’s main focus is to gain new customers for her new labels and to restore stability among her customers located in ski resorts. “Every brand is genuinely important to us. We pour our heart and soul into everything we do.” IG: meta.pesch_fashion.agent
In safe hands: Handstich is a new addition to Agentur Wagner’s portfolio.
Agentur Wagner “We now represent Handstich in central and northern Germany,”
says a delighted Marcus Heck, partner at Agentur Wagner. “I am particularly excited by the fact that the brand has an unmistakable signature style with which I can fully identify. The quality of the meticulously manufactured outerwear is visible in every detail. Handstich is also a great fit for our brand environment featuring DU4, Phil Petter, and MMX, for which we also have our sights set on upmarket specialist retailers.”
Modeagentur Klaus “We introduce innovation via our existing product portfolio,”
says Christian Klaus, referring to casual and comfortable collections with a distinct identity. “The first moods of labels such as Penn&Ink N.Y, Humility, and Oakwood suggest plenty of innovation.” A newcomer is Henriette Steffensen of Denmark. “We like the look, qualities, and sustainable approach. It is important to us that our brands are not available everywhere, because this results in a universally clean pricing policy.” www. modeagentur-klaus.at
Henriette Steffensen is a newcomer at Modeagentur Klaus.
Paul’s Selection “GTA revolutionises trousers with a waist comfort band in the cuff
for ultimate comfort,” says Paul Schulz,
owner of Paul’s Selection. “Now trousers that do not fit no longer exist, for both men and women.” Outerwear brand Kired is launching younger styles at lower prices. “Henderson Baracco focuses on fashionable shoes with super comfortable Vibram soles,” says Schulz. “All brands offer sensational customer service.” www.paulsselection.com
Heubel Modeagentur FOCUS ON INDIVIDUALISATION
“Products that are individually manufactured in Europe to customer specifications are becoming increasingly important for our retail partners,” explains Mark Heubel. The agency promotes premium leather jackets and gilets by Heinz Bauer Manufakt, which can be custom-made in Germany upon request. It is also in the third year of representing Austrian footwear label Handmacher. The special feature of the latter is that customers can not only choose three different lasts from a range of popular models, but they can also customise the shoes in terms of leather type, colour, and outsole. Quasi made-to-measure sneakers that resemble classic bowling shoes are currently in particularly high demand. Labels: Deserious, Desoto Luxury, Di Poldo, Geox, Gloverall, Handmacher, Heinz Bauer Manufakt, Lodenfrey 1842, Outdoor Survival Canada, Wallmann Heubel Modeagentur, Düsseldorf/Germany, mark@heubel.info, www.heubel.info
Agentur PrinsJuric DON’T BE SHY!
The fun element is never neglected: Damir Prins-Juric is known for making ordering at the agency, which he runs with his husband Henk Prins, a fun experience. “I truly love our customers and am very happy for them when things go really well. It is especially encouraging to see how so many have made the most of the difficult times by coming forward and using social media and the like to really expand the reach of their stores. I have incredible respect for that,” the agency owner says. “Anyone who has such a tight connection to their target group is in a position to introduce new brands. With brands like Wushu or Josh V, we got off to a great start despite the pandemic, and now we are looking forward to rolling out these brands here.” Labels: + People, 1 One, Afterlabel, Ana Alcazar, Barb’One, Bobi, Brand Unique, Cacatoes Sandals, Camouflage Couture, Coreterno, Devotion Twins, DSCVR, Emma & Gaia, Emily Lovelock, Floor, Ganesh, GN_ madeunique, Herzensangelegenheit, Icon, Ivko, Johnny Was, Josh V, Koon, Les Tricots d’O, Lotus Eaters, Love Joy Victory, MDK, NIMO, Notshy Cashmere, Penn & Ink N.Y, Potzy, Smaak Amsterdam, Smashed Lemon, TOF, Voluspa, Wushu Agentur Prins-Juric, info@prins-juric.com, www.prins-juric.com
Successful development: Notshy of Paris captures the zeitgeist perfectly.
CANADIANCLASSICS.IT
MODEist COMEBACKS, BESTSELLER, AND START-UPS
Marion and Timothy Hoferer rely on the perfect dose of consistency and reliability: they mix their brands like Sold Out, Pride to Be, or Dolores with an exciting international portfolio. This season’s newcomers are jewellery label Wald Berlin, jackets and coats by Lost in Me, and agency returnee Destin, which delights with unisex scarves and overshirts. A portfolio that is just as appealing to individual boutiques as it is to concept or department stores. “In view of the current supply crisis, it is imperative to draw much closer together,” says Marion Hoferer with conviction. Labels: Alpaca Loca, Controfigura, Destin, Dolores…, Gudrun & Gudrun, Kooreloo, La Milanesa, Lost in Me, Pride to Be, Sassenbach, Seamless Basic, Sold Out, T-Coat, Wald Berlin MODEist, Munich & Düsseldorf/Germany, info@b-kleidung.de, www.modeist.com
Modern Italian elegance: Coats by Lost in Me are a new addition to the MODEist portfolio. Circolo 1901 has added carefully colour-coordinated athletic looks to its classic range.
Heritage Showroom CAREFULLY CONCEIVED
Wahts Amsterdam is new to the agency. “The collection is both casual and clean, featuring a broader range complemented by scuba hoodies and overshirts,” says Michael Brockmann. “We have been affiliated with Wahts for a long time and are looking forward to developing the label together.” Circolo 1901 has responded to market trends with a pre-collection focusing on womenswear. “Classic remains the focal point, complemented by sporty styles,” explains Brockmann. Overall, the collection is carefully conceived and combines colours harmoniously. “Sales figures tell us that Myths is on a promising trajectory. The focus is on trousers with a sophisticated jogging character, supplemented by well-made technical trousers and a wide range of boiled wool pieces.” Brockmann is really enjoying his work again. “The retailers have a handle on their stock, not least due to excellent sales. That is the best feedback we can hope for.” Labels: Candy Candle Hamburg, Circolo 1901, Ko Samui Tailors, Matéma, Myths, Wahts Amsterdam Heritage Showroom, Munich/Germany, info@heritage-showroom.de, www.heritage-showroom.de
MeierRybinski
DESIGN COMPETENCE
The Düsseldorf agency has three new brands under its belt. My name is Jeans offers perfect fits in denim stretch that retains its shape; the label maintains a strong stock range. “The purchase prices ranging from 60 to 70 Euros are terrific, plus the prices of the core collection are never discounted,” says Anna-Zoi Rybinski. Another new addition is the handcrafted cashmere collection by Panicale, part of a family business in Perugia considered to be one of the oldest knitting mills in Umbria. Renowned designer Alessandro de Benedetti, who is also responsible for the creative input at Romeo Gigli, is now launching a total look collection under his own name. “After a strong summer with tunic dresses, Kerry Grima is now focusing on knitwear and leather featuring braided details and plenty of craftsmanship,” Rybinski reveals. “The scarves by Pin 1876 are guaranteed bestsellers. We receive repeat orders every day, simply because quality and colours are unrivalled.” Labels: Alessandro de Benedetti, Boutique Moschino, Kerry Grima, Max & Moi, My name is Jeans, Panicale, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, Pin 1876 by Botto Guiseppe Agentur Meier-Rybinski, Düsseldorf/Germany, info@meier-rybinski.de, www.meier-rybinski.de
RESEARCH ATTITUDE
20 years of room with a view means countless milestones, successes, setbacks, and a constant back-and-forth. But above all, it is all about the people who have filled this space with life and allow it to grow in new ways every day.
Room with a view A WINDOW TO THE WORLD
Christian, you are celebrating 20 years of room with a view. What are you most proud of?
Christian Obojes, founder of room with a view: I cannot single out a particular moment, I think. There were so many things – and above all so many people – along the way that make me, and us, happy to this day. I think we can say that we have always gone fully in.
Retrofame, the first showroom with the legendary kitchen, the LA Denim phase, the launch of brands like HTC, Ed Hardy, and Giorgio Brato, a branch in Switzerland, the founding and subsequent sale of Free Mountain, the launch of WarmMe, the showroom in Germany, your own building in Salzburg, the early deep dive into sustainability, and now your own store – is this what you call serial entrepreneurship?
Christian Obojes: We are movers and shakers. We simply love being proactive, and love to experiment. Looking back, I regard these twenty years as a continuous challenge. It was not always a walk in the park, but a journey with highlights and successes that encouraged us to keep going and keep asking ourselves how things could be even better and more beautiful. My approach of perceiving life as a Super G rather than a leisurely ski tour seems to be in my genes, written in the stars, or god knows what. But I refuse to complain about that, because my environment, the colleagues and employees, the partners, and the people behind the brands make all this so special. Iris Obojes, founder of room with a view: Looking back is a wonderful opportunity to appreciate how much has happened in the last 20 years. room with a view is moulded by Christian’s flair for trends and his will to pioneer. He searches, finds, builds, believes, and simply moves forward fearlessly. Add to that my sense for the supposedly less commercial aspects of our business: the aesthetics, the energy of our showrooms, and the question of what it takes for our team to develop in the best possible way.
What makes you unique?
Iris Obojes: Our openness and spontaneity, the fact that we always seek an honest exchange. Our eye for new things, for trends, for future relevant ways of earning money. We create a setting that reveals this interplay, that makes encounters possible. A setting in which everyone feels comfortable – our customers, our suppliers, and we ourselves.
This vision is embedded in the name, is it not?
Iris Obojes: The inspiration for the name came from our first showroom in Faberstrasse. All those rooms paired with our vision of a showroom. Always looking out through a window to the world.
Fortela, created by Alessandro Squarzi, dedicates its fourth store to women.
Fortela NOW THE LADIES
Fortela, a brand created by agent and style icon Alessandro Squarzi, is now turning its attention to women: “The idea to launch Fortela Store Woman & Vintage Selection and Fortela Donna came about as a result of increasing demand from female customers looking for iconic unisex pieces – such as denim, military trousers, and t-shirts – in my other stores. These vintage must-haves now combine with the vision of Alessia Giacobino, with whom I have designed this new collection.” For his brand, Alessandro Squarzi blends Italian style with his vintage expertise. He finds inspiration all over the world. Milan’s Via Melzo 19, for instance, offers a large selection of vintage denim by heritage brands such as Levi’s, Lee, and Walls. www.fortela.it
Stetson THE SCENT OF FREEDOM
The pursuit of freedom, independence, and fulfilment symbolises the authentic heritage and spirit of the American West. Stetson started manufacturing its distinctive western hats, which embody this American spirit like no other, in 1865. In keeping with this spirit, Stetson’s “Original”, a fragrance that impresses with its exquisite blend of rich, woody, and citrusy spices, is now also available in Germany. Initially, the oriental scent is quite powerful, but its natural citrus and sage nuances gradually transition into a light, woody note. The corresponding aftershave “Splash” is characterised by striking top notes of lavender, sage, and citrus. The heart note contains patchouli, vetiver, cedarwood, and geranium, while the base note features honey, tonka bean, amber, musk, and vanilla. This pure, masculine fragrance is ideal for daily use, as the care product also provides a pleasantly cooling skin sensation and helps reduce skin irritation after shaving. www.stetson-europe.com
Distinctive and masculine: Stetson is now introducing its eau-de-cologne and aftershave to the European market. Silvia Stein Bocchese has been running Maglificio Miles, a renowned manufacturing company, for more than 50 years.
Mrs Stein Bocchese, you have been chairwoman of your company Maglificio Miles for more than 50 years. To what extent has the role of women in the Italian fashion world evolved?
Silvia Stein Bocchese, Chairwoman of Maglificio Miles: It has changed massively. I founded my company with my husband in Vicenza in 1962. I was born in Switzerland. My upbringing, a somewhat different mentality, and divergent culture made it possible for me to travel through Europe alone by train to present my creations to the likes of Yves Saint Laurent in Paris as early as the 1970s. That was something very special back then. After my husband’s early death, my mother joined the company to help me – another woman. To be honest, I have never questioned my role. I had to function, do my job. But I do recognise that, as a woman, you are now much more aware of your role. Women define more ambitious goals for themselves and celebrate much success achieving them.
What are the three most important qualities of female leadership?
Creativity, passion, and genuine respect for others.
What are the key differences between male and female leadership?
From my experience, I can say that independence and determination can also be female characteristics. And we women have this „harmonising“ role that is absolutely essential for the creation, development, and success of a business.
Dynamism and modernity are the cornerstones of Distretto 12 menswear.
Distretto 12 RELIABILITY IS KEY
Alessandro, how was 2021?
Alessandro Hong, CEO of Distretto 12: In 2021, Distretto 12 reaped what it had sown in 2020. The last year was truly a year of great reprise. We invested all our efforts in building an even better internal structure, as well as establishing a stronger retail network and a more targeted communication strategy. This has had a positive effect on sales figures: We have already reached pre-pandemic sales levels, and the trend remains on an upward trajectory.
What is the secret to a successful reprise?
Reliability is key. We always delivered punctually, even when times were tough. In addition, we focused on communication and interaction. All of us – production, marketing, and sales agents – always remained united as a team to show our customers that we are there for them. The excellent quality of our products is, of course, also an important factor.
What will the 2022/23 autumn/winter collection bring?
The Distretto 12 collections are geared towards the dynamic man par excellence. He travels extensively, is always on the move, and needs comfortable yet stylish clothes. He wants to be able to go straight from work to the cocktail bar without changing his look. We will continue to incorporate sportswear materials while remaining true to our typical smart, casual mindset.
What are your objectives for the immediate future, especially in the DACH region?
The German-speaking market is my top priority. I just returned from a three-week tour of your region. The market has welcomed us with open arms, and we are determined to continue in the same vein. Our five-year goal is to reach the 30 million Euros turnover mark.
Alessandro Hong is the CEO of Distretto 12.
Gennario Dargenio, CEO of Circolo 1901, pictured at the construction site of the new headquarters in Barletta, Puglia.
Circolo 1901
ENGAGING HEARTS AND MINDS
Gennaro, what is your assessment of 2021? How did Circolo 1901 perform in Germany?
Gennaro Dargenio, CEO Circolo 1901: 2021 was a special year, marked by plenty of uncertainty and the fear of yet another lockdown. But we always remained optimistic and continued to do what we do best: work on our collections and make them even more contemporary to meet market demands more effectively. We also invested heavily in communication. It is important to us that the history, the soul, and the DNA of Circolo 1901 reach the end consumer. These measures have had a positive effect and we are very satisfied with sales volumes. The figures in Germany were also satisfactory.
What can we expect from the new autumn/winter collection 2022?
We will continue to display collections that aspire to meet the zeitgeist, as well as to identify and serve current market trends. We attach great importance to the balance between renewal and tradition. We rely on pieces that are innovatively manufactured, yet still convey the heritage of our region (Puglia), our people, and our DNA.
What are the next major steps?
We have so many projects lined up. The ones we can share right now include the realisation of the new headquarters and the amplification of our communication strategy. The new offices, which extend over more than 3,000 square metres, are intended as a gift to the greater Circolo 1901 family. As far as communication is concerned, it has never been more important for us to engage the hearts and minds of end consumers.
Silk Sisters expresses a feminine understanding of fashion.
Silk Sisters
WOMEN FOR WOMEN
Melanie, your casual, selfevident collection shows that you do not approach fashion from a male perspective.
Melanie Nienaber, co-owner of Silk Sisters: I became involved in fashion because I saw a lack of options. My personal wardrobe has to be inter-combinable, in patterns and colours. That view defines my approach for Silk Sisters: the silk blouse goes with jogging pants; the dress looks cool worn over trousers. This new understanding of women‘s fashion has emancipated itself from male views, a development that female influencers on Instagram have helped to foster. Women are now wearing looks they would not have had the courage to wear in the past.
What do women need to feel comfortable in Silk Sisters?
First of all, silk that washes easily and flows beautifully. Organic cotton has more edge, complemented by sustainably produced fabrics such as viscose, Tencel, and Cupro. The latter is as soft as a peach skin. Wider and longer cut pieces enhance the feel-good factor, accentuated by a plunging neckline or a bow. I try to add such details as the proverbial icing on the cake.
Your manufacturing processes are also heavily influenced by women.
We are a small label created by women for women. Both our partner companies in the Czech Republic and in Portugal demonstrate how much the supply chain is controlled by women. This also determines how we collaborate: once women have developed trust in each other, they are fiercely loyal and assume responsibility. A great foundation for Silk Sisters! www.silk-sisters.de
Peuterey BEN AND HIRED AS GERMAN SALES PARTNER
Peuterey, an Italian brand renowned worldwide for luxury outerwear, intends to advance and accelerate its expansion in the German market as of this season. For this purpose, Peuterey has teamed up with sales agency Ben And GmbH (B&). In the last three years, the brand has experienced continuous double-digit growth in the DACH region and aims to increase its turnover from currently 6.7 million Euros to more than 10 million Euros by 2025. The new partner Ben And, founded in 2010, is among the leading sales agencies in Germany and the German-speaking markets. With two locations in Munich/ Schwabing (900 sqm showroom) and in Düsseldorf (1,300 sqm showroom), the company can guarantee a blanket presence throughout Germany. This should facilitate the amplification of distribution, concretely tripling the number of multi-brand stores and strengthening brand presence in the country’s finest department stores by 2025. The plan includes the reinforcement of the jacket label’s positioning and image through visual merchandising, while power-selling campaigns promote in-store sales. The collaboration with Ben And also stipulates that, from the autumn/winter sales campaign onwards, a team of six will be dedicated exclusively to Peuterey to best convey the brand’s values and storytelling, as well as to guarantee retailers reliable and timely service.
Italian jacket brand Peuterey has agreed upon ambitious goals with Ben And; a six-person team exclusively dedicated to Peuterey is tasked with realising them.
Wayout is the name of the new outerwear collection that ottod’Ame is debuting this autumn.
ottod’Ame WAYOUT
ottod’Ame ventures outdoors. The sustainable label from Florence presents an independent outerwear line for the coming season: Wayout. “Following the huge success of our down jackets in the last winter collections, we decided to take this step and offer a capsule of 30 models and five accessories,” says designer Silvia Mazzoli. Since its foundation, the company has championed ethical fashion and been a great advocate of animal welfare and sustainable production in general. The outerwear features 70 percent recycled materials and is lined exclusively with paddings of non-animal origin. The colour palette is dominated by solid colours like military green, black, gold, and purple, but the range also includes models with polka dots and tweed effects. To give the project its own identity, ottod’Ame has designed a dedicated labelling system: hang tags, inside and outside labels, and pins bearing the new logo are applied to all garments. www.ottodame.com
Pride to Be THE NEW COAT
“Personally, I see the waistcoat worn over down or knits as the new coat,” says Marion Hoferer, who demonstrates a special flair for sophisticated bestsellers by representing the Pride to Be collection. A delicate balance of surprise and wearability is what makes Pride to Be a hidden champion across all retail partners.
Pride to Be enters the new season with checked, double-faced, and plain wool coats. Eye-catchers such as ankle-length overshirts and trenches in short teddy qualities have the potential to become favourite pieces.
Luis Trenker SLOW FASHION
Luis Trenker has a truly unique DNA, more so than most other brands. You are, however, stepping it up yet another notch.
Michi Klemera, owner of Luis Trenker: The fantastic feedback we are receiving in our new stores in Salzburg, Munich, and Bolzano confirms that we are on the right track. The term slow fashion has been an integral part of our company philosophy ever since our foundation 25 years ago.
How does the collection reflect this approach?
Our affinity with nature is expressed in the processing of high-quality, natural materials, with a focus on textiles manufactured in Italy. For autumn/winter 2022, we revive a traditional boiled wool jacket from the Salzburg region. We are convinced that we can tap into the premium market with such a collection. It has been condensed by 30 percent and divided into three distinct topics. Essential Easywear embraces everyday casualness, while the main Academy collection reinterprets the college look. This is where you find our Heritage outfits as a tribute to our roots, which manifest themselves in natural, undyed materials. Urban Sophisticated is the more elegant range for special occasions. A highlight is the capsule of technical outdoor parkas for men and women, featuring distinctive printed linings.
You also have news in terms of sales.
Yes, exactly. As of this season, responsibility for sales in Germany lies with Kai Jördens, with the aim of establishing the brand as a permanent fixture in the premium lifestyle segment. For Switzerland, we were able to win Andreas Allenbach as a new representative, while Meike Schilcher remains a committed partner for Austria. www.luistrenker.com
Michi Klemera is the living embodiment of his Luis Trenker brand.
Steiner 1888 adds bags and accessories to its product portfolio. The sales representative is Agentur Stolz.
Steiner 1888
LAUNCH OF BAGS AND ACCESSORIES
As of autumn/winter 2022/23, a small, refined line of bags complements Steiner 1888’s outerwear. Ranging from weekenders to toilet bags, the pieces made of loden mark a firm step towards establishing an all-year collection. Available in colour-blocked styles and many colour variations, the accessories perfectly bridge the gap to Steiner 1888’s home collection. www.steiner1888.com
Fly3
WHAT KNITWEAR CAN DO
Gente di Mare is the driving force behind several outstanding knitwear products from Italy. Fly3, a company based near Ancona that adds functional value to knitwear, is an excellent example. www.fly3.it
No longer a mere blouse label: Edelle womenswear also offers cashmere pieces and dresses.
Edward Copper “WE MAKE SHIRTS!”
Edward Cooper has been on the market for ten years. What is your summary looking back? And what does the future hold?
Hilke Blömeke, owner of Edward Copper: We started with smart casual shirts, which still define our strategy today. We offer contemporary, relaxed shirts for men that follow a sustainable concept. The shirts are enzyme-washed, eliminating the use of chemicals. We pay close attention to using environmentally friendly components, such as unglued inserts in the collar and mother-of-pearl buttons. We source and manufacture in Europe to ensure short delivery routes. This has been our policy right from the start, but we did not communicate this message proactively. That is going to change.
How exactly?
Starting with the current season, we are teaming up with Ralf Klüver to strengthen the DACH market. He will present Edward Copper in the Paul’s Selection showroom and the Prisco Haus in Düsseldorf and Munich respectively. We are also ramping up marketing and sales internally to communicate our message both B2B and B2C.
What is on the agenda fashionwise?
A core element is our successful jersey made of mulesing-free merino wool. Because it wears like a pullover, the piece can, after airing it, be worn several times before it needs to be washed. It is also crease-resistant and therefor perfect for travelling. We are expanding the colour palette and adding a sporty slip-on style with a concealed button tape. These are complemented by overshirts made of woven wool, which have more edge than the jersey pieces – as well as Edward Copper Cruise featuring modern, cotton flannel styles that appeal to younger people.
The shirts by Edward Hopper are a revolution of the entire concept shirt.
Freedomday OUTDOOR PROFESSIONALS
Freedomday is all about the outdoor experience. In its autumn/ winter 2022/23 collection, the Italian brand combines style and functionality. The focus is on technical materials such as softshell, elastic nylon, and neoprene with additional properties. The collection features clean designs and monochrome styles. While the Woman and Junior Girl lines convey a fashionable touch, Man and Junior Boy are characterised by sportswear. The aim is to make consumers feel comfortable at all times. To this end, the collections are designed down to the smallest detail to cover a wide range of outdoor styles and functional requirements. www.freedomday.it
Freedomday successfully strikes a balance between fashion and functionality.
What is good for surfers, keeps you warm in winter: RRD focuses on high-tech and performance.
RRD LASER, ULTRASOUND, AND HEAT
“We have been working on and investing in innovative materials for quite some time and have expanded the range of seamless styles for next season. Almost 80 percent of our collections are now manufactured with these seams. These laser-cut, ultra-sonic, and heat-welded seams are ideal for any weather and always retain maximum flexibility, even after years of use. All this is combined with revised classic cuts and styles. Seamless design has a great advantage it shares with a wetsuit: no moisture or cold,” says Roberto Ricci of RRD about the key pieces of the new collection.
Hometownglory INITIATIVE
The Hometownglory initiative in Mannheim boasts two temporary concept spaces. Selected pieces by young creatives from the Next Mannheim network and Gründerzentrum Textilerei are displayed in a retail environment – on the ground floor of Engelhorn and on a two-storey pop-up space in the Q6Q7 district. “Young brands present the enormous innovative potential of the local fashion and creative community,” says initiator Nico Hoffeld. Sustainable brands such as Klaudia Karamandi and Belle Ikat are complemented by streetwear by The Dizin or Phyne, as well as accessories, perfumes, food, art prints, and interior design pieces. www.next-mannheim.de, www.textilerei.de IG: hometownglory_mannheim
DMI
RESPONSIBLE HEDONISM
DMI has produced an online Fashion Day to present the trends that are expected to determine the 2023 season. It lasts several hours and has been available as a stream since December. The forecasts are descriptively illustrated by the experts of the DMI Trendboard, featuring lectures on the zeitgeist and impulses from which the looks are derived: colours, materials, and styles of womenswear and menswear. “Never has our world been as divided as it is now,” says trend analyst Carl Tillessen. “We are torn between responsibility and hedonism. This cognitive dissonance is particularly prevalent when buying fashion, so much so that fashion has no choice but to make it visible and transform it into responsible hedonism.” www.deutschesmodeinstitut.de
The online Fashion Day whets the appetite for the trends of the 2023 summer season. Photo: VanMoof in cooperation with Pigalle
Renoon A UNIVERSE OF SUSTAINABLE FASHION
Anyone who wants to be certain that they are shopping sustainably, can do so at the touch of a button without having to conduct extensive research. Thanks to a proprietary algorithm, the app developed by Renoon combines the offers of several online shops and evaluates their sustainability credentials. If no ethically correct or sustainable product is available for the search request, Renoon points to pre-loved items or apparel rentals. Iris Skrami, one of the four founders, conceived the idea for the app while desperately searching for a sustainable “little black dress”. Today, Renoon counts 400 partners, including Pangaia, Stella McCartney, Vestiaire Collective, Luisaviaroma Sustainable, Net-Sustain, and Yooxigen, as well as links to more than one million fashion products. The app also allows users to personalise looks according to their own sustainability criteria, and to gain insights into fashion brands and their product world. Users can create lists of favourite brands and products from various websites, and even curate their own feed. Last but not least, they can exchange ideas about sustainability in the fashion industry within the community. www.renoon.com
North Sails Apparel’s campaign highlights the beauty of nature and the fragility of the planet’s ecosystems.
Shoes, accessories, and ready-to-wear by Axel Arigato are now available in the Swedish premium brand’s own store in Munich.
North Sails Apparel CREATING AWARENESS
Entrepreneurship obligates. To date, more than 4,000 certified B Corporations in 65 countries have committed to social responsibility in their bylaws. Milan-based brand North Sails Apparel has been certified as a B Corp since last summer. “Becoming a B Corp requires allocating equal importance to financial, social, and environmental targets. We are very proud to have received this global certification and hope that our commitment will be an inspiration to other companies, influencing generations to come. We are all responsible for ensuring that the company focuses on the bottom line as well as on the planet and people,” explains Marisa Selfa, CEO of North Sails Apparel. In addition, the brand is actively involved in supporting environmental activists and ocean preservation projects. The current “Go Beyond” campaign features marine biologist and photographer Cristina Mittermeier, who makes the effects of climate change on the Arctic Ocean visible. www.northsails.com
Marisa Selfa is the CEO of North Sails Apparel.
Axel Arigato STORE IN MUNICH
This is the fifth store run by the Swedish sneaker brand that is rapidly captivating the whole of Europe. Axel Arigato has opened a 143 square metre store on Brienner Strasse in Munich’s city centre. It is minimalist and modern, reminiscent of an art gallery. In short: The perfect place for premium sneakers and ready-to-wear to gain even more brand relevance via concentrated POS power. www.axelarigato.com
AYMS REFLECTED
What makes the new activewear by AYMS so special? It leaves nothing to chance, but is carefully refined down to the smallest detail. This is evident in the deliberately placed, often functional features such as a reflective signet that remains visible in the dark. This can, by the way, also be understood as a mindset message to reflect on oneself. The signature logo is also engraved on the ends of the drawstrings. Ribbed details, as featured on crewnecks, add structure to the design, as do mock collars on the men’s hoodies and t-shirts. Signet sweatbands and socks complete the collection alongside a clutch and a shopper with practical zips. The label uses Supima cotton and GOTS-certified organic cotton, complemented by specially developed high-tech performance materials. The colour scheme remains natural in shades such as oil green, grey melange, white, and black. Timeless design and enduring quality are indispensable for the limited collection. Deliberately designed by Martina Schmidl without heeding seasonal rhythms and sale pressure, the collection constitutes a statement for conscious consumption. It is available at specialist retailers as of first delivery in January and February. www.join-ayms.com
Mey SMART FABRICS
The Zzzleepwear range by Mey now features a new, breathable Celliant technology to improve the quality of sleep. Body heat is converted into infrared energy, reflected, and then returned to the body. The material blend of 75 percent cotton and 25 percent Celliant viscose ensures excellent climate regulation and a pleasant feeling on the skin. The same applies to the comfortable cuts of the nightwear range, which further support the cosiness factor. Mey, a family business in the Swabian Alb, has always been committed to the continuous development of its own standards, and to particularly high-quality and durable products. www.mey.com
Play instinct engaged: Journalists and opinion makers experience the virtual showroom of THINK INC. using their own avatar, just like in a computer game.
THINK INC. VIRTUAL REALITY
Holger Petermann’s and Maria Chiara Teza‘s Munich-based communications agency THINK INC. represents numerous brands from the premium segment. As of last April, journalists and opinion makers can visit the showroom virtually, but without having to forego personal service or experiential engagement. The website’s interface is designed in the style typical of a 1990s computer game. Once they have logged on, visitors can design their own avatar and start exploring. The staff welcomes visitors at the entrance and informs them individually via video chat in split screen mode. But it doesn’t stop there: visitors can even interact with each other when their avatars happen to bump into each other – just like in real life. Journalists, stylists, and influencers have access to individual rooms in which they can learn about the latest collections, download images and text material, and place photo sample orders. The infotainment package is complemented by videos of brand representatives informing about the latest highlights, as well as changing DJ live sets that are streamed on the virtual agency’s dance floor. “We continue to work on everything that proves successful. Following the first version of our THINK INC. Virtual Space, which informs, inspires and, above all, unites our target group, we enhanced V2 of the Virtual Space with exciting, new functions, and features that accelerate work processes. And they are fun, too. That is important to us,” explains Petermann. www.thinkinc.de
Good News Agency JOURNEYS INTO CREATIVE DIMENSIONS
Günter Passek’s Munich-based agency has represented Italian label Niu in Germany for five seasons. The total look collections tell ever new stories of women from all over the world every season. For more than 20 years, the design team has travelled to countries such as Kenya, India, and Thailand to draw inspiration for prints, cuts, colours, and textures from local people and traditions. A special highlight are the elaborate brocade skirt models and it-pieces made of Kanga fabrics, which are manufactured in Italy with great attention to detail. The collection is not sold through large online retailers, but exclusively through specialised retailers. Labels: Anokhi, Bomboogie, European Culture, Flona, Niu, Skills & Genes, Viamailbag Good News Agency, Munich/Germany, info@good-news-agency.de, @goodnewsagency
In the spirit of adventure: Niu tells stories of journeys around the world. Strong in jackets and evermore relevant total looks: Blauer USA.
Blauer USA
WINKING AT THE FUTURE
Plenty of drive and a highly successful brand economy: Blauer USA is on course for success. This self-confidence is reflected in the new collection, which quotes US police history while winking at the future. The US brand’s most popular fabrics are now offered in an even wider range of colours. The down jackets still feature Eco, Sorona, and Repreve fillings alongside Thermofix heat seams for maximum protection against rain and wind. On particularly cold days, Blauer USA recommends down-filled reversible jackets, nappa leather lining, sheepskin, or down-filled nylon. But Blauer USA is also ready for mild winter days: waistcoats, field jackets, overshirts, or multi-pocket and parka models combined with sweats. Generally speaking, the brand’s complete look has taken yet another step forward. Blauer USA completes its look with knitwear, chinos, shirts, and sweats. www.blauerusa.com
Ecoalf PURISM & PERFORMANCE
The premium line entitled 1.0 not only takes the Spanish eco-label into new spheres in terms of design. The performance features of the jackets, which are made of increasingly breathable, wind- and water-repellent fabrics, are also reaching new heights. While the design draws inspiration from minimalist urban outerwear and architectural oversized contours, the material properties of the jackets correspond to those from the sports performance sector. The theme of the autumn/winter 2022 season revolves around the North and South Poles, the last untouched and pristine corners of our planet. Waistcoats and zip jackets are made of Ecoalf’s Ocean Yarn, which is sourced from a marine waste upcycling project. Parkas and jackets with a hydrostatic head of 5,000 feature 3-layer, single-origin fabrics made of 100 percent recycled polyester in all three layers, which can later be fully recycled once more. Ecoalf is systematically expanding its circularity potential while remaining true to its commitment to transparency and integrity at all times – for the planet and the people. www.ecoalf.com
Reduced to the essentials: Ecoalf relies on strong colours and ever new material developments.
Bomboogie FASHION AND FUNCTION
Bomboogie inspires with a strong brand DNA. The Italian brand not only reinterprets classic army jackets, but also offers a wide range of functional down jackets, anoraks, and parkas. The outer materials are subject to constant development every season and combine fashion and functional demands in equal measure. “With Bomboogie, we provide an excellent entry-level commercial price range for the premium segment while maintaining the highest level of quality. With prices ranging from 250 to 450 Euros, we cater to the customer who is not willing to pay 1,000 Euros for a jacket. The product quality meets highest standards and can easily compete with well-known luxury or sports brands. The silhouettes are always ultra-modern, yet never too whacky. And the fits are great,” says Denis Augustin of Munich-based Good News Agency, which is responsible for sales in Germany. Highlights for autumn/winter 2022 include classic field jackets and coats with ultra-light down jacket inlays that can be worn as 2-in-1 variants, both in autumn and winter. Customers can choose between models with classic 90:10 real down filling or synthetic Primaloft filling. In addition, a range of short, medium, and long women’s styles are made of extra-soft recycled nylon. www.bomboogie.com
Bomboogie translates army references into a modern urban context.
More than 800 collections for women and men will be on display at the two locations as part of Supreme Women&Men.
Supreme Women&Men
FULL HOUSE
Supreme in Düsseldorf and Munich is starting into the coming season with a large portion of expertise and optimism under the same conditions as in the summer. “The high demand for space from agencies and brands shows how sought-after our order platforms are. In addition to many familiar faces such as Max Mara, Peserico, Dawid Tomaszewski, Susanne Bommer, JNBY, Simone Bruns, Patricia Pepe, and Hemisphere, as well as agencies like Select Studio, Udo Toepfer, Schumacher & Kubanek, and Diebra Textil, we welcome many new labels such as austriandesign.at, Day Birger Mikkelsen, Mon Margin, and Schella Kann, as well as agencies block2block and Claudia May,” a happy Aline Müller-Schade, Managing Director of The Supreme Group, says, and adds: “Despite constant difficulties and persistent bottlenecks in the supply chains during the pandemic, many retailers have mastered this period admirably. We should be delighted that we will continue to have a retail structure in the DACH region that is unique in Europe. Our retail partners, with whom we are in very close contact, are highly motivated to view and order the collections we host in the coming season. As a service provider, we hope for a sustained dialogue with suppliers and retailers to ensure continuity in our successful collective efforts.” Düsseldorf: 28th to 31st of January 2022, Munich: 12th to 15th of February 2022 www.munichfashioncompany.com
Lemon Jelly footwear is vegan and PETA-certified.
Lemon Jelly VEGAN FASHION BOOTS
Lemon Jelly’s distinctive rubber Chelsea boots for women and children are an all-time favourite. The Portuguese brand is now stepping it up a notch by introducing new high fashion models. For autumn/winter 2022, it presents numerous variations with voluminous, ultra-light EVA soles – some featuring extra rough treads. For example, a high chunky bootie with stretch insert on the outside and inside zip, or a high Chelsea boot model with an extra thick sole and elaborate neoprene inlay. Four new models feature synthetic linings. And as always, Lemon Jelly does not neglect the fun factor. A collaboration with in-house medical footwear specialist Wock has resulted in antistatic, antibacterial slippers with a cuddly lining and attachable little bears at a price of 79 Euros. Just like the label’s basics, the fashion line, which retails at prices between 110 and 179 Euros, is manufactured in the company’s own factory in Portugal. The facility is powered exclusively by renewable energy. Many components are made of recycled materials. Customers who already stock the Lemon Jelly fashion line include Breuninger, Fashionette, and Kastner & Öhler. Roshan Paul and his Munich-based agency Rosh Studio are responsible for sales in Germany and Austria. www.lemonjelly.com
BOB Company ARTIST AT WORK
What do artists and the Italian menswear label BOB Company have in common? Respected art and quality fashion require craftsmanship and passion. These values are, in fact, at the centre of the upcoming campaigns to be implemented by the brand based near Florence. The plan is to provide artists of all genres with the collections and allow the two worlds to converge. One of the first testimonials is Martin Foot, a sculptor from Liverpool who now lives in Pietrasanta. “We have no desire to hire celebrities as testimonials. We want real people with real stories, who share BOB Company’s values such as creativity, craftsmanship, spontaneity, and, of course, a love of Tuscany,” says founder Tommasi Bellini. For the autumn/winter 2022/23 season, the brand presents looks inspired by workwear: lumberjack-style overshirts and military-look trousers in colours like ochre, green, and tobacco. The knitwear remains versatile as well: crocheted, knitted, and colourful – and many patterns. It goes without saying that all pieces are “Made in Italy”. www.bobcompany.it
BOB Company tells its story through real people like Martin Foot, an artist who lives in Tuscany.
Based on what is probably the oldest outdoor fabric in the world: Lodenwear is an iconic product series by Steiner 1888 that offers an urban interpretation of extremely light and waterproof loden fabric.
Wunderfell DIVERSIFIED
For the 2022/2023 autumn-winter season, Wunderfell introduces cosy boho styles made of long, cuddly Tigrado fur, sporty biker jackets and hoodies, and classically timeless merino coats and jackets. “The demand of younger target groups is increasing,” says designer Dirk Nienaber. “We have expanded our range accordingly.” Particularly innovative: a butter-soft Lacon Agneau and Iceland skins tanned in Spain. “The tannery leverages innovative tanning, dyeing, and finishing processes to render its quality standards environmentally sustainable. The manufacturing process ensures that water, chemical, and energy consumption is drastically reduced. Water is 100 percent filtered. Manufacturing takes place exclusively in Europe.” www.wunderfell.com
Luxury as sustainable as possible: jackets and coats by Wunderfell retail at prices between 1,200 and 2,500 Euros.
Lodenwear “OUR ROOTS ARE INCREDIBLY MODERN”
Johannes, Lodenwear is a modern onepiece concept that takes loden fabric to a whole new level.
Johannes Steiner, owner of Steiner 1888: Lodenwear is a modern, urban product that we deliberately detached from our Steiner 1888 collection. This product will have its own sales unit. Instead of presenting a whole collection, we have decided to focus on individual icon pieces meant to endure the test of time.
Christian, can you explain the magic of Lodenwear?
Christian Weber, Head of Design at Lodenwear: We have succeeded in developing a wafer-thin, ultra-light loden fabric. It is based on Steiner’s so-called Greifenberg loden, a typical umbrella loden with a streak that allows water to roll off. Our first product, a raincoat, can be folded to fit into an A4 envelope. Its modern unisex silhouette makes it perfect for urban use. It is light, crease-resistant, and wind- and waterproof – all this based on natural wool. A small nylon admixture, however, ensures that the fabric can be processed open-edged, which saves weight and volume.
Where are the pieces manufactured?
Christian Weber: The fabric is manufactured in Steiner’s factory in Styria and processed in a family business in northern Italy. All details are of extremely high quality. www.lodenwear.com
Sebastian Klinder is delighted by the support from within the industry.
Close up: Munich Fabric Start and Bluezone welcome more than 1.100 collections to Munich.
Munich Fabric Start FULLY BOOKED
Visitors of the upcoming Munich Fabric Start at MOC and Bluezone in the adjacent Zenith Halle can look forward to a safe and thoroughly inspirational trade show with fully booked halls at pre-pandemic level. Sebastian Klinder, Managing Director of Munich Fabric Start: “We are stunned! More than 600 suppliers from 33 countries have signed up for Munich Fabric Start, including more than 90 international denim suppliers for Bluezone. This impressive progress and the enormous support from the industry is a milestone in this exceptional situation, and anything but self-evident. At present, we are planning a 2G+ system (vaccinated or recovered; plus negative test) with regard to hygiene and safety measures.” Throughout the three-day event, a comprehensive event programme featuring lectures and panel talks by industry experts will offer visitors insights into the latest trends and topics relating to sustainable alternatives, digital solutions, and forward-looking innovations. Munich Fabric Start: 25th to 27th of January 2022, Bluezone: 25th to 26th of January 2022, www.munichfabricstart.com
Neonyt “WHAT WILL SUSTAINABILITY SIGNIFY IN THE FUTURE?”
Bettina Bär, you are taking on the task of evolving a trade show that is a first mover in the field of sustainability. What is your vision?
Bettina Bär, Show Director of Neonyt and value: Yes, we were – and remain – first movers, a claim that we also intend to live up to in Frankfurt. Neonyt and Fashionsustain are highly successful formats. People have missed the physical events and we are delighted that we now have a first chance to meet in person again. Our vision for Neonyt is to think one step ahead at all times. What is our narrative when what this trade fair aims to promote and encourage becomes reality? In other words: What happens when sustainability has become standard in this industry? This is a fascinating discourse, and I am sure that we, together with the Neonyt community, will find some excellent answers.
Let us talk about community. Will Neonyt manage to enhance its profile? Will it attract international buyers who have an interest in this segment to Frankfurt?
That is definitely our ambition, and the Messe Frankfurt team is highly experienced in this field. With a strong network, international subsidiaries, and sales partner offices, we not only spread our fashion spirit to Germany’s neighbouring countries, but to all corners of the world. In view of the pandemic situation, we will by no means be able to demonstrate our full potential at the January edition, because international travel still remains somewhat complicated. We are, however, convinced that Frankfurt Fashion Week will be on the agenda of all European top buyers in the summer.
Experiencing content and brands tell us more about this winning combination…
From the 18th to 20th of January, Fashionsustain offers a varied programme that highlights brands like Ecoalf, Deuter, and Pinqpong alongside NGOs and organisations such as Fairwear Foundation, Grüner Knopf, and the UN Global Compact Network Germany. At Neonyt, which has been devised as a 2G+ event (vaccinated or recovered; plus negative test), visitors can view brands such as Dawn, Dedicated, Deuter, Flamingos’ Life, Givn, Got Bag, Kuyichi, Mela, Mud Jeans, SKFK, and many more internationally relevant labels from the sustainable clothing and accessories sector. Neonyt, 18th to 20th of January 2022, Frankfurt/Main, www.neonyt.com
Family-oriented structures, transparency throughout, absolute sustainability: Woolish.
Woolish
SECRET SUSTAINABILITY CHAMPION
Knitwear from Estonia? Yes! The region boasts a rich heritage and a new generation of internationally oriented brands like Woolish is stepping up to combine that with modern sustainability values. Woolish debuts on the German market this season with the backing of Haven Agency. www.woolish.ee
Shoebizz REALIGNMENT
The Pfyffer family’s sales agency Shoebizz has always specialised in shoe collections from Italy. One of the most important projects of the last seasons is the repositioning of D.A.T.E, an Italian sneaker label. D.A.T.E is an acronym of the four founders Damiano, Alessandro, Tommaso, and Emiliano. In 2005, they founded their brand in Florence with the idea of launching a trainer that was sporty and cool, yet also featured high quality materials and typical Italian design. “Our journey with D.A.T.E. started shortly before the pandemic and was initially fraught with great uncertainty. But we used the opportunities presented during that time and worked hard on realigning the brand. We succeeded in securing some fantastic new accounts including Sigrun Woehr, Burresi, and Marandino. This proves that D.A.T.E has evolved into a refined and sophisticated product,” says Paco Pfyffer. Labels: D.A.T.E, Ernesto Dolani, Vic Matié Shoebizz, Hünenberg/Switzerland, info@shoebizz.ch, www.shoebizz.ch
Deha
MOVE IT
Who could offer better leisure and activewear than a true specialist? Ballet brand Deha, which has long since moved beyond dressing ballerinas, is part of the Treviso-based Meeting Group. Highlights include recycled and compostable materials, a rarity in the athleisure segment. www.deha.com
Not a start-up, but a brand with solid roots: Deha inspires with fashionable activewear.
D.A.T.E, a sneaker brand from Florence, has embarked on a promising journey with Shoebizz.
Nubikk’s comfortable crossover styles combine fashion and functionality.
Nubikk URBAN OUTDOOR
Dutch brand Nubikk, founded in 2012, combines fashion and comfort with distinctive design, inspired by the conviction that one should not forego either. Customers now enjoy the option of reordering best-selling highlights. “Two of the most significant innovations are a B2B online gateway for single orders and a 72-hour delivery service of bestsellers from a warehouse located in Holland. Brand new for the coming season are water-repellent and breathable urban outdoor boots with Vibram soles that combine trekking and trail running features with fashion silhouettes,” explains Roshan Paul of Agentur Rosh Studio in Munich, who is the brand’s sales representative in the DACH region. Fashion sneakers like the lightweight model Ross Trek Edge, the high tone-in-tone women’s leather lace-up boots Fae Aubine, the white men’s nubuck boots Jonah Dune, and the classic Logan Harbor boots with chunky yet lightweight high-grip soles were the bestsellers of last season. Additional sales support is provided by a Berlin-based influencer marketing agency. Retail prices for the autumn/ winter season range from 189 to 249 Euros. Current customers include Kastner & Öhler, Bailly Diehl, Garhammer, Lochner Top Fashion, Palm Heilbronn, Ingla Petera, and Mia Shoes. www.nubikk.com
Josh V ALL-ROUND LIFESTYLE
How does the topic of the Premium trade show, “Reform the Future”, align with your philosophy at Josh V?
Josh Veldhuizen, founder and CEO of Josh V: Currently, we are paving the path to a more sustainable future. We do so by making conscious decisions on all levels. It is our mission to further develop our three focus fabrics to be fully sustainable by 2026. Therefore, we have launched our Conscious Selection, a collection of clothing items for which we use more sustainable materials, such as organic cotton, recycled polyester, and ecoveroTM. We are also working hard on optimising processes and making products more sustainable in all other areas, for example by reducing packaging and using more sustainable packaging materials. Furthermore, we believe it is important that our products are manufactured in a fair and safe working environment. That is why we are affiliated with BSCI.
Can you describe the overall mood of the autumn/winter 2022 collection?
Josh V is for all women who desire to look and feel stylish whatever the occasion may be – a day at the office, a dinner with friends or family, or a special evening occasion. The style of Josh V collections is characterised by the use of high-quality materials and in-house designed, luxurious prints and branded buttons. The brand and its collections are known for their flattering yet comfortable fit, and its characteristic use of colours in neutral tones and tonal looks. Josh V delivers exclusive luxury and quality at a commercial price. For autumn/ winter 2022/23, our designers drew inspiration from the 1970s and 1980s. At Josh V, this translates into super-sophisticated yet striking styles including big shoulder pads, snake boots, pied-de-poule prints, and sleeveless blazers. This season will be all about hitting the street again and expressing your feminity through your looks.
As an entrepreneur, you focus on a data driven strategy. What is the impact of this data?
Data is incredibly useful. We are completely data-driven; the entire company works on the basis of figures and analyses thereof. We know upfront what will sell very well and why. We excel at predictive planning, and all our marketing and social media efforts are part of a big matrix that connects and analyses data. We adapt our strategy to this. This is also why we can offer the highest service level to retailers. We are not based on sentiments; we are based on facts.
“I strongly believe in inspiring, helping and strengthening other women”, says Josh Veldhuizen, founder and CEO of Dutch brand Josh V.
