Sartorial Street(wear

IT-PIECE:

The raglan coat in multicolour-checks.

SARTORIAL STREET(WEAR)

“Formal Wear on the Edge” has been Manuel

MANUEL RITZ. Ritz’s success formula right from the start. However, the delicate balance between tailoring and streetwear, fine-tuned by Leo Colacicco, reaches a new climax in the current season. The foundation for this look is laid by the selected fabrics, whose differentiated textures alone create an exciting suspense. A confident interplay of shapes, structures, and volumes builds on this foundation. Checks, overchecks, and pinstripes escape conventional formalisms and lend single- or double-breasted jackets, overshirts, and hoodie jackets a thoroughly self-evident modernity. Many pieces are oversized, for example one of the absolute collection highlights, a long raglan coat in an earthy patchwork look or multicolour. Speaking of colours: here, too, the consistent influence of the street is evident. Colour is an element, but never an end in itself. This also applies to the trousers, which implement a new width and relaxedness without slipping into sloppiness. Very cool! The sophisticated functionality of the “Tech-Core” line enters its second season featuring puffer jackets, trench coats, and bomber parkas, as well as a very special nylon stretch material. www.manuelritz.com

Purposeful: so-called purpose brands are the secret darlings of buyers. Brands that convey a clear message, solve a problem, or are simply too beautiful to ignore.

PEARLS OF FLORENCE

Maman et Sophie. Elisabetta Carletti was a successful lawyer until 2008. The birth of her daughter Elena Sofia unleashed her creativity and imagination. Without further ado, she turned her life upside down to focus on what she really loves: jewellery. She initially sold her pieces to friends, but retailers started knocking on her door soon after. In 2012, her husband Federico Lastrucci joined the business. Today, the brand has over 20 employees and more than 250 points of sale throughout Italy. What makes Maman et Sophie so special is that all pieces are handcrafted in Florence by trained orafi, goldsmiths educated at renowned Florentine schools. The brand is still looking for a partner for the DACH region.

Maman et Sophie, Florence/Italy, www.mamanetsophie.it

SIGNATURE POINTS

Von&Zu. Special prints, as if drawn or water coloured, constitute the signature of womenswear by Von&Zu from Gemünden. “The prints are urban and fashionable, but always retain a trace of longing and nostalgia,” says chief designer Magdalena Cromme, who runs the label founded in 2014 with her sister Eva-Maria Czerny as part of an 80-year-old family business. Meanwhile, Von&Zu has developed into a complete collection in sizes 34 to 46, featuring cropped jackets, feminine dresses, oversized knits, and even fluffy checked shirts. The shapes remain clear and simple, the colours fresh and natural. At a mark-up of 2.7, the purchase prices for dresses range from 85 to 150 Euros. The label manufactures in Europe.

Czerny Manufaktur GmbH, Gemünden/Germany, czerny@von-zu.de, www.von-zu.de

EVERYDAY FAVOURITES

Seamless Basics. Seamless

Basics has set out to conquer the German-speaking market with high-quality leggings, shirts, tops, and briefs in understated colours and classic, timeless cuts. The Danish brand has engaged the MODEist sales agency to build a fan base for its NOS principle of season-independent underwear in Germany. The brand processes merino wool, recycled silk, mulberry silk, and cotton. The sustainability idea is extended all the way to the packaging. The premise is to work with few seams and provide full comfort.

Seamless Basics, Copenhagen/Denmark, hello@seamlessbasics.com, www.seamlessbasics.com

FOR THE LOVE OF BERLIN

Be Edgy Berlin. The label

represents rebellious, timeless contemporary wear centered around the leather jacket. “Our passion for unusual contrasts and designs is reflected in our pursuit of the perfect cut,” says founder Robin Juchems. “Constant experimentation renders every piece unique.” The mix of materials is style-defining. Vegan tanned leather is, for example, combined with denim or nylon. Leather down puffer jackets, trench coats, and faux shearling jackets, as well as jerseys and accessories, complete the Pakistan-produced collection listed by Breuninger, Engelhorn, and Greta & Luis. At a mark-up of 2.7, retail prices for leather jackets range from 110 to 260 Euros.

Be Edgy Berlin, Berlin/Germany, robin@be-edgy.com, www.be-edgy.com NATURALLY SUSTAINABLE

Aemium. French unisex premium perfume Aemium is crafted exclusively from natural ingredients. Only four different components are used to create a range of seven fragrances. Founder Emmanuel Roche says: “We have developed a high-quality fragrance that is free of synthetic substances and whose packaging is easy to recycle. This is how I define true luxury. We eschew shiny packaging and focus on the quality of the ingredients.” A 100 ml bottle costs 137 Euros, a refill 97 Euros. A socalled Discovery Box is available for 27 Euros. The mark-up is 2.4. The list of retail partners already includes Selfridges, The Wearness, Cardamomo Milano, and Jovoy Paris.

Aemium, Paris/France, eroche@aemium.com, www.aemium.com

ASIA MEETS ITALY

LuceLove. Francesco Gozzini, founder and owner of Tuscan fashion brand LuceLove, travels a lot to Asia on business and has long been keen to launch a label offering Chinese qipao dresses for girls and women. His dresses represent the perfect blend of simple and elegant Chinese cuts and Western fabrics and patterns. The pieces are exclusively handcrafted in Italy, and Gozzini sources the fabrics from stock. “The warehouses are full of wonderful materials, especially following the pandemic. By using them for my Qipaos, I prevent them from ending up in the landfill.” The result is a crossover product manufactured in Italy, reflecting a fair fashion philosophy that perfectly balances zeitgeist and customer taste. LuceLove is still looking for sales partners outside Italy.

LuceLove, Montecatini Terme/ Italy, www.lucelove.com

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NEXT LEVEL

Maurizio Miri. The razor-sharp suits pay homage to the full range of traditional Italian tailoring. The creativity in design – recognisable in cut, pick stitches, opencut edges, and a long thread on the lapel buttonhole – lends the garments their distinctive coolness and modern rock star attitude. Maurizio Miri, seventh of seven brothers, has been dedicated to taking men’s and women’s tailoring to the next level since 2009. His exclusive collectors’ pieces are listed at stores such as Different Sylt, Black Ravenna, Gente Rom, and Bernardelli Mantova. Retail prices for men and women range from 600 to 1,200 Euros and 320 to 530 Euros respectively. The mark-up spans from 2.7 to 3.0.

Maurizio Miri, Maison Mea SRL, Brescia/Italy, info@mauriziomiri.com, www.mauriziomiri.com

VIBRANT COLOURS

Blush Indigo. In 2018, Katarina Ziesecke discovered the colourful bracelets in Bali and brought them back to Europe. She started her own company called Blush Indigo, a reference to her favourite colours, just a few months later. “Colour is the foundation of everything,” says Katarina. She designs a collection and then sends it, together with pendants and clasps that are manufactured in Germany and Italy, to two production partners in Bali, who then allocate the orders. The knotting takes place at home, by hand. Katarina is keen to expand her material portfolio and offer more pieces for silver wearers. She is also eager to spend more time in Bali to support local marine conservation projects. Purchase prices of the pieces run between 2,50 and 4 Euros, with a markup of 3.6.

Blush Indigo Jewellery Berlin, katarina@blush-indigo.com, www.blush-indigo.com

MULTITASKING À LA ITALIANA

Thea Montegrappa. Who or what is Thea Montegrappa? A label? A blog? An influencer? An artisan? “A touch of everything,” is how Chiara Gentili, the creative mind behind the brand, would answer. She gathered plenty of expertise as a designer and product developer for one of the most important Italian fashion brands of the last 20 years. After suffering a burnout, she reconsidered her options. Her own business should be grounded and small, not merely glitz and glamour. Thea Montegrappa started with jewellery, self-knitted jumpers, and crocheted accessories. Chiara soon realised that her talent harbours even more potential. Hence, she offers her knowledge to retailers in the form of upcycling and recycling programmes. Today, she markets her unique pieces and advises shops on the topics of fair fashion and upcycling. She also helps to redesign surplus items to re-present to the consumer in an innovative manner.

Thea Montegrappa, Massa e Cozzile/Italy, www.theamontegrappa.com

KNITWEAR IN PERFECTION

Matéma. Round neck, V-neck, turtleneck? Fiddlesticks! Italian brand Matéma proves that knitwear can be infused with plenty of modernity. Matéma designs a total look in cross-gender, cutting-edge collections. The brand, which was the ultimate new discovery for many when it made its debut at Pitti Uomo in June 2021, is backed by renowned Italian knitwear specialist Gente di Mare. Heritage Showroom secured the coveted sales partner slot in Germany, and renowned agents across the rest of Europe pounced on the brand. 40 years of knitwear expertise coupled with a modern understanding of look, size, and fit, as well as the promise of pieces that are natural, sustainable, and machine washable – that is the definition of a precision landing.

Matéma, Falconara M./Italy, daniela@fly3.it, www.matema.eco

REVERSIBLE

AliciaAudrey. It all began with a friendship between the two fashion-savvy Belgians Audrey Joris and Alicia Meus. Their brand concept impresses by combining a strong, clear design signature with playful elements. Created as a mono-product collection, AliciaAudrey is primarily committed to coats. Lapel collars, blazer cuts, and oversized trench silhouettes characterise the range. The special detail is that all coats are made of double-faced fabric, meaning they can be worn inside out – from elegantly discreet to boldly patterned. A blazer, a gilet, and a long, coat-like waistcoat complete the picture.

AliciaAudrey, Brussels/Belgium, info@aliciaaudreycollection.com, www.aliciaaudreycollection.com

GOOD KARMA

Studio N. A lockdown project with a mission: friends Ninja Heidmann and Katrin Goldberg-Tekinarslan founded the Studio N label in Berlin in 2021. Their objective: to create feelgood pieces that convey the message of tolerance, self-love, and good karma to the world. Genderless jumpers, joggers, hoodies, and oversized shirts with wide ribbed cuffs form the backbone of the collection, and every piece is manufactured under the premise of sustainability and waste reduction. The styles are produced in Europe from organic cotton and recycled polyester, and then imprinted in Germany. Sizes range from XS to XL; retail prices start at 30 Euros.

Studio N, Berlin/Germany, contact@studio-n.shop, www.studio-n.shop

GENDERLESS

TCoat. A renowned production facility in Italy, a look that inspires with international vision: Timothy and Marion Hoferer have discovered a real gem for their sales agency in outerwear brand T-Coat. The brand, launched in 2019, initially only offered overshirts, but has since evolved remarkably in terms of style. “The brand quickly gained its first fans in our sales territories in Germany and Austria, not least to great purchase prices ranging from 109 to 189 Euros and new qualities. Now we are looking forward to the winter season, when T-Coat can demonstrate its full potential,” says Marion Hoferer. In short: a concise, small collection that is fun to represent.

T-Coat, Verona/Italy, info@telarosa.com, www.t-coat.it

PATENTED

Sturlini. Dreamy soft summer shoes are one thing, but Italian shoe manufacturer Sturlini succeeds in creating the same flexibility in its winter collections. Based near Florence, Sturlini has developed the so-called Versilia patent. This patent allows for a particularly light and flexible shoe that remains durable and complements formal outfits. Given the return of ready-to-wear, this footwear comes at the perfect time. After all, people wearing “easy suits” want to slip into correspondingly casual and comfortable shoes. Both the women’s and the men’s collection by Sturlini have already gained notable fans in the retail sector beyond Italy’s borders – for example Galeries Lafayette or Breuninger. Starting in January, Agentur Klauser was appointed for sales in Germany.

Sturlini, Monsummano Terme/Italy, info@navayos.com, www.sturlini.com

RICE FOR PLASTIC

Pssbl. Bags designed by Pssbl balance durability, quality, socially responsible production conditions, and environmental protection. The fabrics are made entirely of recycled material and production in Vietnam is undertaken exclusively by certified specialists. Every Pssbl product sold supports the brand’s environmental and social projects in Cambodia, one of the poorest countries and heavily affected by plastic pollution. The “Rice for Plastic” initiative, for example, exchanges collected plastic waste for the corresponding amount of rice. Seven models including messenger bags, tote bags, shoulder bags, backpacks, and fanny packs are available. The customer list features the likes of VooStore, Glore, Zebraclub, HHV, and Afrew.

Pssbl GmbH, Berlin/Germany, talk@pssbl.life, www.pssbl.life

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Does fashion actually have to be real? Not at all.

Fashion regains its playful element in the Metaverse. Be it as a skin in gaming or as an NFT, it adopts a completely new role. The fact that some still find this development somewhat surreal does not disturb this new reality one bit. If you’re in, you’re in.

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