Passionately Analogue

Passionately

ANALOGUE. THAT'S THE FUTURE.

A plea for stationary retail: nothing in the premium segment surpasses multi-brand stores that are capable of turning shopping into a physical experience. This is where retailers are passionate hosts, where customers receive their full attention while falling in love with fashion face-to-face. Can anything surpass that in the future? Surely not, right?

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Interviewees

Judith Luger has been running her store, initially founded by her parents in 1957, in Hard on Lake Constance in Austria since the late 1970s. The business measures 250 square metres and has six employees. “I love my store as much as I did on the very first day,” the entrepreneur says. “Every season, I am excited to see what I will discover during the order process and look forward to presenting the new merchandise to my customers. They, in turn, love enjoying a pleasant stay at Luger Mode, exchanging ideas, and returning home happy with their purchases at the end of the day.” Being passionately analogue is Judith Luger’s motto and recipe for success.

THE FUTURE IS HYBRID

“Purchases thrive on the appreciation that people bestow on each other,” says Marc Ramelow. He, too, is an avowed retailer driven by passion, currently operating an online shop and nine branches in northern Germany, ranging in size from 400 to 5,500 square metres. All premises are based on the same principle: “As a customer, am I smiled at in the store? Is someone showing genuine interest in me? This is exactly where stationary retail comes into its own.” Without doubt, the online sector continues to grow. Is and will stationary retail remain relevant? “Yes, but as a hybrid concept including the digital sphere,” Ramelow answers. “Today’s competition is more about processes than about products. Customers’ desires range from swift, efficient, and inexpensive to demanding an actual experience. Fashion shopping in particular is a highly subjectively experienced, personal, and emotional process. And our employees are the ones who shape it.” The Boys Don’t Cry menswear store in the Saint-Germain quarter of Paris resembles a playground of creativity. “We love to surprise,” says image director Felix Boehm. The average customer is between 25 and 40 years old and appreciates the special selection that is not available online: extravagant high fashion by Marni, Lemaire, or JW Anderson, for example, complemented by independent magazines, art, and design books. “Many people visit us specifically because of these magazines and books,” says Boehm. He attracts a community interested in fashion and art, as well as tourists who are less interested in sightseeing than in experiencing the Parisian way of life. Even for Boehm, however, the BDC online shop is indispensable. “Many customers use it to obtain information in advance and then ask if we have the pieces in the store to try them on. One example is the Bode jacket made of recycled kitchen towels, which looks very special on the hanger yet really knows how to convince when worn.”

OFFLINE GOES ONLINE AND VICE VERSA

Wait and See in Milan has become a place of pilgrimage and longing for fashion enthusiasts. The niche is filled with unique, colourful fashion ranging from high-street to premium at affordable prices – always presented with a tongue-and-cheek attitude. Can such a special place only succeed offline? Not necessarily. The concept revolves around the personality and stylistic confidence of owner Uberta Zambeletti, who has succeeded in translating the vibrant spirit of Wait and See into a web shop. “When you pour so much love, effort, passion, and affection into something, you want it to grow. E-commerce makes that possible,” she explains. “We generally adopt a very data-oriented approach and also devote considerable time and effort to data analysis.” The strategy is paying dividends. The ratio of international Wait and See customers has increased from 20 percent to 60 percent since the online shop was launched in 2020. While extensive marketing measures are indispensable, service remains the essential element. “Even online, we ensure that someone is around to provide styling and sizing advice seven days a week,” Zambeletti reveals. “I have learned how important it is to guide customers in the store.”

STORYTELLING

Being available to customers in person and being passionately analogue as a result is something that is engrained in Franz Grasegger’s DNA. When he took over the 1,800-square-metre family business in Garmisch-Partenkirchen in 2010, he deliberately decided against an online shop on the grounds that the Trachten and alpine fashion niche is best sold in person on the sales floor. “We have expanded this core competence even more; we can now tell a background story for every piece,” Grasegger explains. The storytelling angle is proving very successful online too. Grasegger’s Instagram feed invites followers into the Trachten universe. “This part of the business is managed by small teams who also work on the sales floor – three employees between 20 and 25 years of

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1 Marc Ramelow,

CEO Ramelow 2 Franz Grasegger,

Managing Director Grasegger 3 Judith Luger, owner Luger Mode 4 Uberta Zambeletti, owner Wait and See 5 Felix Boehm,

Image Director Boys Don’t Cry 2

5 age,” Grasegger reveals. “Those of us who share a story on Insta need to know how we tell that same story in the store. It needs to dovetail perfectly. We deliberately allow for freedom so that the tasks can be solved on one’s own initiative. Sometimes I am surprised how well this is received and that it helps us gain new customers.” An open corporate culture is essential for Grasegger. For him, this also includes inviting young employees to order trips whenever possible. Luger, who asks her niece Clara Böhler to accompany her to orders as often as possible, clearly shares his opinion. “She started helping out in the store as a teenager and knows exactly how our customers tick. I can learn plenty from her and vice versa. She opened my eyes to a new angle many times,” the store owner smiles. “The bottom line is that we two assemble a great product mix that delights both young and old.”

REFLECTING ON TOMORROW

The industry knows Ramelow as someone who attaches great importance to staff training and strives to inspire young people to take up the profession. Are young people also willing to shop in a stationary store? “Absolutely. They may be online all the time, but they still appreciate the value of a face-to-face exchange,” Ramelow claims. However, the approach needs to be different. “Our store offers an excellent W-LAN connection, which attracts a few 13-year-olds who stream videos on our sofa. As a salesperson, I have a choice to make. Does that annoy me? Or should I offer them a Fritz Coke and strike up a conversation? This eye-to-eye approach towards young people is completely different from what we were taught in the past. It is becoming significantly more differentiated. Those who fail to understand that will have problems attracting young talent.” Despite the poor image of the sales profession, Ramelow sees many opportunities for self-expression. “The job can involve partying with customers in the evening, inviting your friends, or enjoying music and catering,” he describes with infectious enthusiasm. “We need to talk about these aspects to improve the image of the profession. This is where the fun begins. And selling an outfit at 9pm comes with a handsome reward.” Grasegger is utterly convinced that his store will still be located in the pedestrian zone of Garmisch-Partenkirchen 20 years from now. But he is equally convinced that change will remain an ever-present factor. The new website was launched in November. If Grasegger is satisfied with its performance, an online shop will follow. Digital services are self-evident for him, as long as they support the sales experience in the store – unobtrusively in the background so as not to disturb the homely atmosphere in the store. “I can envision the expansion of Graseggerwelt, with an integrated concept store for furniture, or even an area dedicated to hospitality,” says Grasegger. “We intend to remain true to our slogan: House of the traditional and contemporary. In order to commit to the present, you need to think about tomorrow.”