style in progress 1/2023 – English Edition

A Kiss from Kitz‘

Only those who follow their own path can leave a trace.

We continue our way forward. Discover the new fall/winter collection here.

Areal Böhler Düsseldorf

Neonyt goes Düsseldorf

Premiere in January: Neonyt licensed by Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH comes to Düsseldorf and Igedo Exhibitions takes over the complete operational implementation and planning.

Twice a year, the popular B2B event will take place at the Areal Böhler and bring fashion, sustainability and innovation to the German fashion metropolis.

Düsseldorf is and remains the order location for the fashion and shoe business in Germany and enjoys an international reputation. The popular fashion metropolis on the Rhine is not only existentially important as a business location, but also scores with short distances and concentrated ordering possibilities. The imposing industrial backdrop of Areal Böhler, where the event will take place, inspires Europe‘s fashion people. The industrial site has now matured into a highly authentic event location with contemporary industrial charm that is unique in Germany. In the future, Neonyt will take place at the same time as FASHN ROOMS and thus together in the fashion metropolis of Düsseldorf. Thus, the event fits wonderfully into a successful mix of international brands. The strictly sustainable assortment finds a new home next to the FASHN ROOMS segments Agencies and Premium Brands (Showroom Concept), Contemporary and Design as well as Accessories and Shoes.

FASHN ROOMS is also known for its content creator* offer. This is also in line with Neonyt‘s community DNA and brings with it exciting multiplication potential.

In Düsseldorf, too, Neonyt will position itself with a consistently sustainable agenda and push the transformation towards a modern, resource-efficient industry. All exhibitors* will be subject to a rigorous sustainability check, which is a prerequisite for participation in the event in addition to fashion curation.

Lavinia Muth, Sustainability Advocate & Consultant, will support this process with her expertise and knowledge.

The conference area ‚The Stage‘ is the link between the two events and is used by both fairs – on the one hand the conference format Fashionsustain of Neonyt and seminars and trend lectures of FASHN ROOMS on the other hand.

Ulrike Kähler, Managing Director at the Igedo Exhibitions, is delighted about the new challenge:„Of course, we are also delighted to be able to intensively accompany and support the next step in Neonyt‘s development,“ she tells us. „Even with a new home base in Düsseldorf, it is important to continue to drive sustainability together and to set impulses for an attitude change among the general public.

At the same time, this also means an additional strengthening of Düsseldorf as a fashion location and also shows the undisputed esteem in which the Igedo Exhibitions is held in the industry, even in its 73rd year of existence. Now it‘s time to roll up our sleeves and work together with all our might to achieve the next goals here in Düsseldorf at Areal Böhler.“

t may have been 1998, but it was definitely in the last millennium. I was strolling through a bone-chillingly cold winter night with a dear friend. The starry sky was so breath-taking, even over Salzburg, that I literally became absorbed in it. “It is always amazing to see so many stars that no longer exist,” my friend, who is exceptionally knowledgeable in these matters, said succinctly. I shared his enthusiasm, but I also found it a tad scary – in a positive way, mind you. It was a mixture of humility, curiosity, and motivation to delve deeper. The notion of beholding, or sensing the future and the past simultaneously when looking into the universe fascinates me to this day.

The year 1998 not only saw the launch of style in progress, but also the launch of Google, another now significant company. The reason I mention this is not just because I like the punchline, but because it so vividly illustrates the extent and pace at which the world, society, and especially our fashion industry has changed – and continues to change. 1998 was before social media (Facebook in 2004), before online retail (Amazon actually went live in 1998), before the iPhone, and so on. So much of what is now routine and daily business was, at best, an idea back then. Yet does not every development start out as an idea, which subsequently needs to find its way? Is it not precisely this inexhaustible source of inspiration that ultimately defines who we are? Creativity is the best, probably even the only resource for accepting and mastering the challenges that change immanently entails.

The optimism with which at style in progress we approach everything and everyone is therefore so much more than simply a conscious counter-position to the unfortunately omni-

present alarmism in politics, media, and society. Rather, it is the expression of a deep, inner conviction. It is the DNA of style in progress. The (climate-neutral) fuel for 25 exciting, beautiful, and ultimately successful years. Today, when I can state with full conviction that I enjoy my work in and concerning this industry more than ever, I can briefly sit back and relax. I am a little proud, but, above all, immensely grateful.

This gratitude extends to all those who are part of the style in progress community. To our readers, who share our curiosity and motivate us with their feedback and suggestions. To our partners, whose trust and input make such an elaborate magazine possible in the first place. And this gratitude extends – not only today but especially today – to my team, the style in progress team.

You all are stardust! Indeed, you are. A scientist would perhaps phrase it somewhat differently, but I want to – and need to – entertain. So, shine on. The future is wide open!

Yours as ever, Stephan Huber

Celebrate!

Welcome to these lines. What a pleasure it was to prepare this issue of style in progress! Even after 25 years, we maintain our focus on the future, rather than looking into the rear-view mirror. The fact that Stephan Huber and Anne-Liese Prem met web3 pioneer Frank Fitzgerald at metameet (“The Future Is Now”, from page 256) is certainly no coincidence. Being part of change is probably the most exciting challenge we face at style in progress. Retail visionary Susanne Tide-Frater sums it up perfectly in a double conference with Vitra trend scout Raphael Gielgen (from page 168): “The future of retail depends much less on the offer, rather than on how we as humans live, how we work, and how we play.” A topic that Isabel Faiss explores in her Open City special, featuring examples from London to Frankfurt, from Paris to Mannheim. She proves how tangible and feasible the future already is. The innovative power our industry is capable of never fails to impress. Nicoletta Schaper, Martina Müllner, Petrina Engelke, Kay Alexander Plonka, and Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek looked for – and found – examples of how brands and people are using the current crisis as an opportunity to move forward. Be it new jobs, new materials, or new business models, change is here to stay. How will our industry change on account of Gen Z? We recommend the interview with Boss CEO Daniel Grieder and Yaël Meier of ZEAM (“We Do Not Think in Working Hours, but in Energy Levels”, from page 294), or the interview with Lodenfrey personnel manager Constanze Köbberling (“Coming Home”, page 314).

The most beautiful aspect of fashion is that the ability to change is embedded in its DNA. When you need to reinvent the world every few months, you do not need any encouragement to break new ground. Whether on our trend pages, in the brand portraits, or wherever we present fashion and new brands – there are so many reasons to rave about fashion anew every season.

What now? Time for some team love. Without Elisabeth, Johannes, Manfred, Hannes, Isabel, Nicoletta, Kay, Janaina, Claudia, Veronika, Saskia, Daniela, Rüdiger, Petrina, Willi, Manfred, Simona, Tibo, AnneLiese, Georgmaria, Verena, Martina, Stephan – and all their families and partners – this mammoth issue celebrating our anniversary would simply not have been possible. Thank you for the hours you did on weekends, early mornings, late at night, your stamina, your nerves, your enthusiasm, your humour and your energy. A giant thank you!

We hope you enjoy your read, Your style in progress team

176 “Nobody Actually Needs What We Sell”

KaDeWe Group CEO André Maeder on future-proof luxury department stores.

180 Open City: Is Polycentrism the Answer? 196 The Healing House of Muse & Heroine: Superwoman’s Sanctuary 198 Arive: “We Are the Virtual City Centre” 200 Let Me Edutain You The new sexy in retail? Intellect!

244

INNOVATE OR DIE

Driven by the dream of a better world. 246 20 Years Premium, 25 Years style in progress Empathy as a Superpower 252 Tech, Baby! How new technologies change fashion. 253 Sophia Malina Wild: “We Strive to Break With Standards” 254 Swiss Cognitive: “Tech Makes Fashion More Sustainable” 256 “The Future Is Now” A metaverse interview with Web3 pioneer Frank Fitzgerald. 262 Energetic Crisis Recovery More expensive? No, newer! 263 Hiltl: “A Turnaround Based Solely on Numbers Does Not Work” 265 Alberto: “Know-How Is the Primary Prerequisite for Innovation” 268 HeiQ AeoniQ™: “The Goal Is to Ensure Nobody Invests in Polyester Production by 2035”

270 Keyhouse/Munich Fabric Start: “Let’s Make Sustainability a Big Deal!” 271 Ben and: “It Is a Completely New Business Model” 272 Mainetti: The Sustainable One-Stop-Shop for Retailers 274 Makes Sense

Entrepreneurship with mission and purpose. 275 The Viwi: “The World Needs To Become More Moderate” 276 Holy Goat: “Our Product Is Worth Every Cent” 277 Heinz Bauer Manufakt: Innovation Through Passion 278 Upside Down D2C labels swim against the tide. 279 Ayen: “Our Customer Is Our Best Friend” 280 Hey Marly: “We Intend to Explore New Avenues” 281 Flattered: “Zalando? German Return Rates on Steroids”

292

HIRE WITH FIRE

Welcome to a market dominated by talent. 294 “We Do Not Think in Working Hours, but in Energy Levels”

ZEAM founder Yaël Meier and Hugo Boss CEO Daniel Grieder talk shop. 300 The Coolest Industry in the World People who can highly recommend their jobs.

234 Just Give It a GO

INSIGHTS

Noova: Sneakers for Cool People

Milestone: “Innovation and Attention to Detail”

Mouleta: Successful Product

Ed Hardy: Action and Rock’n’Roll

Cinque: Grandezza, Ease, and Modernity

Tatras: Full Power

Floer: Favourite Pieces and Eye-Catchers 242 Oilily: “Retailers Are Our Heroes”

319 Mimi Moden: “I Have the Best Customers in the World”

320

Attic: Temperament and Clarity

La Boutique: The Hotel Boutique of Superlatives

Mayfair BXL: A Real Gem

Stereo Muc Women: Stereo Beats Electro

Winkler’s Real Clothes for Real People: Soul in Every Detail

B6 Concept Store: Feminine Minimalism

GENDERFLUID

Loud rather than subtle. XXL rather than small. JPlus collections refuse to mess around, preferring eye-catching shapes with chromatic minimalism and avant-garde design. Recognition guaranteed. This interplay results in the Italian brand’s latest model: Jasi. It is edgy, oversized, occasionally gloomy, sometimes vintage, but always non-conformist.

TheHolyGoat KEY PIECE AND ORIGINAL

What is typical of plaids by TheHolyGoat? Beautiful colours, loose seams, and casual knots. “The idea came about in 2013 while looking for a way to utilise leftover yarns,” says sales manager Claudia Kröhnert. “We designed the original over many days directly on the loom from over 30 colours. That is how the first Gipsy multi-colour plaid was created.” For one plaid –hand-spun and hand-woven in Nepal – a weaver requires seven working days. There are now 21 colour combinations of the Gipsy plaid, and each is unique. www.theholygoat.com

Capsule Collection

Designed in Zurich and predominantly manufactured in Europe: Swiss brand INUIKII increasingly focuses on innovative capsule collections that complement and enliven the existing range on various dates. These injections are proof of the brand’s innovative spirit.

New Now

ROSSI, a new unisex label specialising in trousers, is significantly expanding its collection for autumn/winter 2023. The number of styles and fabrics is about to double, while the suffix “by Raffaello Rossi” is dropped completely. The new collection ranges in retail price from 200 to 350 Euros and impresses with casual styles made of cashmere-touch wool or robust cotton fabrics. @ROSSI_pants

JUST FOR FUN

The 90s revival is in full swing, so is colourful street and outerwear by KAVU, a label founded in Seattle in 1993. Alongside patterned jackets and trousers, it also offers backpacks and accessories. The sales representative in Germany is Marc Schwarz of Blacksales. www.kavu.com

K-Swiss BORN CLASSIC

Committed to pioneering. K-Swiss debuted the world’s first all-leather tennis shoe more than 55 years ago. The Lozan model revisited its roots in the early 2000s. The American label has now launched the Lozan II. The new reissue of the classic focuses on characteristic design elements: All-white, featuring the typical five-stripe lacing, a metallic logo loop, and natural leather.

FAIR FITS BETTER

Circular Economy

Ecoalf further improves the recyclability of the materials it uses and extends the life cycle of fibres, thus avoiding textile waste and reducing environmental impact. The autumn/winter 2023 collec tion consists of 60 percent recycled mono-materials such as poly ester, cotton, or wool. They can be recycled effortlessly at the end of their life cycle, preventing pieces from ending up in landfill sites and allowing them to be used effectively as valuable raw materials again and again. www.ecoalf.com

Five Fellas FEEL GOOD!

“Five Fellas embodies fairness, a sense of well-being, premium quality, refusal to compromise, individuality, and a world in a better blue,” says founder Oliver Schultz. “We live and act to protect our natural resources and have created a sustainable lifestyle brand that shapes the world of tomorrow one pair of jeans at a time. Passion, contemporary design, and authenticity are close to our hearts, yet so is our performance proposition. Italian, GOTS-certified premium fabrics and traditional craftsmanship are combined with highest sustainability standards in products that nevertheless remain affordable. Five Fellas achieves its excellent price/ performance ratio, featuring retail prices between 119.95 and 179.95 Euros, through its lean organisational structure along the entire value chain. The use of state-ofthe-art, innovative materials guarantees the best possible fit and optimal wearer comfort. Our motto: Fair fits better.” www.five-fellas.com

Five Fellas is fair, individual, and unwilling to compromise.

Ecoalf focuses on expanding recycling capabilities.

Quite Colourful

FLORIS VAN BOMMEL traditionally refused to tolerate boredom. The leather of the De Stapper dressed style features a graphic relief print that has been treated with different colour shades to create a truly unique depth effect. The label creates its characteristic special finishes in collaboration with Italian tanneries. Sneakers impress with material blends of mesh, suede, and smooth leather.

URBAN IDENTITY

LIEBESGLÜCK of Mannheim has relaunched. Instead of fashionable range add-ons and short-term trend implementation, the womenswear brand now focuses on solid values.

As such, it is geared towards the urban, sophisticated woman who is confident and stylish. The collection is divided into three delivery drops comprising around 25 styles each, including jackets, trousers, blazers, trench coats, blouses, and dresses. The focus lies on unusual fits and cuts in pastel and earthy tones. www.liebesglueck.shop

readCortina in Anitroc.reverse:

A Different Down Jacket

ANITROC, which stands for Cortina spelled in reverse, is a dedication to this truly unique ski resort in Italy. “This was our way of celebrating the nomination for the 2026 Winter Olympics,” smile founders Simone and Giorgia Cason. Inspired by the beauty of the mighty Dolomites, the duo has designed an extraordinary outerwear collection. The duck down is exclusively sourced from the food industry. Anitroc stands for original fits, patterns, and colours. The brand is an exciting newcomer to the jacket market. Agentur Ventrella has been tasked with delicately building up the label. www.anitroc.it

The colour combinations of Floris van Bommel footwear are rich in contrast.

Liebesglück interprets international trends in its individual signature style.

MaxModa DEPTH AT THE POS

Leo, you enjoyed great success in 2022 with Freedomday and Outhere.

Leo Padulo, Export Manager at MaxModa: Yes, 2022 was a very good year indeed. We were able to increase our sales by 35%, with both brands. That is an excellent and significant figure. It tells us that we are getting many aspects right. And more importantly, that the volume of sales has increased due to depth at the POS. The retailers are our premium customers from last season, and they ordered and reordered more.

What can we expect from Freedomday for the autumn/winter 2023/24 season?

Freedomday has developed a pre-collection and a main collection for the current season. In the pre-collection we focus on lightweight materials: from neoprene and softshell to a nylon/stretch blend. The main collection features different material blends ranging from wool/nylon to wool/eco-fur, as well as varying volumes. Of course, our famous prints always appear inside the jackets. They are an important part of our DNA. What news can you share regarding Outhere?

The key word is empathy. We debut our new Cloud Tech material: a recycled synthetic lining that is as warm and soft as real down. Outhere has also embarked on a journey towards more sustainable collections.

Grenz/gang SLOW FASHION

Grenz/gang, a sustainable womenswear collection, not only meets highest quality standards, but also raises awareness for regional manufacturing. The added value of the Alps, a distinct understanding of values, and personal customer contact are key objectives. This is not a low-budget label. It exclusively processes natural materials such as cotton, wool, Tencel, or linen, as well as – new for the current autumn/winter 2023/24 order round – loden with alpine origins. Tops dominate alongside a full range of dresses, skirts, and trousers in muted colours and classic styles. www.grenz-gang.com

Leo personalPadulo’s highlight is this parka Freedomdayby

Exhibits at SALT Salzburg and Supreme Munich: Grenz/gang.

ORGANIC FOOTWEAR

The sneaker spe cialists of VOILE BLANCHE the new sustainable line Hybro, featuring the two models City and Run for men and women. The super-light EVA soles are 60 percent filled with a sugar cane compound. The uppers are made of natural materials with reduced CO2 footprints, such as apple leather, and the lining is crafted from recycled cotton. The sales representative in Germany and Austria is Dünkelberg, while Switzerland is covered by Fashion Loft 42. www.voileblanche.com

CRUNA

ALL THAT JAZZ

Relaxed silhouettes, innovative designs, and exclusive materials. For autumn/winter 2023, Italian trouser specialist Cruna takes its cue from the atmosphere of jazz clubs of the 1960s. Patterns merge with the notes of Miles Davis. The materials used in the collection are characterised by a great lightness, which is both indicative of and a testament to the brand’s Italian quality. In terms of colour palette, Cruna relies on full and refined tones to accentuate the modern aesthetic of the menswear collection.

collection draws inspiration from the cold and silence of Northern Europe: vast landscapes, linear urban architecture, the warm colours of autumnalters. The sustainable pieces recycled fabrics, remain a highlight, and show Duno’s continued commitment to

Nordic and sustainable are the keywords of the

Urban design: Cruna focuses on an independent menswear line that is perfectly integrated into the main collection.

“HANDCRAFTED WITH LOVE”

Marion, you managed to convince Douie, an online-only label, to enter the wholesale market. What can we expect?

Marion Hoferer, owner of ModeIST: Douie is a gorgeous hand knitted collection featuring a harmonious colour palette, eye-catchers, and window pieces that are also suited to everyday use.

What makes Douie unique?

All pieces are crafted by hand. The label exclusively processes European yarns, in partnership with European micro-enterprises that support women who would not have the chance to access the labour market elsewhere. For mohair, silk, and cashmere items, the price structure is absolutely realistic.

New models such as the hoodie add unique, independent styles to the range. Which customers are you targeting?

We believe Douie is a product that catches the eye, be it in a store or online. Douie is the perfect choice for anyone looking for products that truly evoke passion.

The Future of Trench

The highlight of the current Distretto 12 collection is the High Dynamic Trench. A jack-ofall-trades with an innovative and dynamic fit, it transforms from a formal jacket to a tech-perfor mance garment in the blink of an eye. Distretto 12 relies on craftsmanship and a wool blend containing neoprene, as well as raw cut, innova tive heat sealing, and quilted nylon in character istic colours. www.distretto12.com

Hamburgbased Douie has taken its coarse-knit expertise to the next level.

Plan C BRAIN EROTICISM

Plan C has never felt the need to be superficially sexy. Instead, architectural shapes mark the signature of the highend collection, which experiments with masculine and feminine attributes to create its own form of eroticism. It is no coincidence that the style is reminiscent of Marni, as Carolina Castiglioni is the daughter of the Marni founders. Nevertheless, she has found her own identity for Plan C. “You can immediately tell if a woman is wearing Plan C,” says Isabel Brodt from Identità Italiana in Düsseldorf, one of the retailers who successfully stocks the brand. “For me, Plan C is the epitome of innovation, and the pieces still retain fashion relevance five years down the line.” www.plan-c.com

Pierre-Louis Mascia Great Art

What exuberant creativity! The Pierre-Louis Mascia collection interweaves past and present, inspired by technology, modernity, and the folkloric costumes of bygone eras. Each piece lives from the often richly coloured materials, including jacquard knits and printed cashmere, as well as embroidered silk for kimonos, caftans, and sportswear blousons. Pierre-Louis Mascia is the highlight of every assortment and a key piece in every outfit. www.pierrelouismascia.com

Unique in terms of quality and pricing: DU4.

DU4

BEST QUALITY

Luxury premium quality at purchase prices between 52 and 75 Euros and a large warehouse for repeat orders are excellent reasons to choose shirts by DU4. What else? The close connection to sales partner Niklas Rill and his eponymous agency. “As a shirt specialist, DU4 reacts to requests from retailers in real time,” says Niklas Rill. “Such personal exchange is essential for achieving optimal results – and it works a treat.” www.du4.de

Comfort 2.0

The latest sneaker model by Portuguese brand AMBITIOUS, named HOVER, features a patented comfort system. The creators promise no less than the perfect blend of design and functionality. Air chambers provide maximum cushioning and ultimate comfort. www.ambitious-brand.com

Next-Gen Fibres

Japanese outdoor brand Goldwin has launched a collection with high design standards under the name 0 (pronounced: zero). The aim is to bring together art and science. Highlights include a jumper made of Spiber’s innovative brewed protein fibre. This structural protein material is made of plant sugar (glucose and sucrose) in a fermentation process using microorganisms. This means there is no need to use any fossil raw materials such as crude oil. www.goldwin-global.com

The scarves and triangular shawls by Purschoen are readily available off the shelf.

Purschoen THAT LITTLE EXTRA

Snuggly cashmere scarves in high, GCS-certified quality, in a wide range of colours and with excellent service competence – welcome to Purschoen. “We make the time it takes to keep developing the product,” says Bimala Windisch. New highlights: Woven scarves and triangular shawls featuring print motifs such as a flock of birds or butterflies to complement super-lightweight knitted scarves. www.purschoen.com

Fashion Distribution inspired by uniqueness, elegance and modernity.

“I want to pass on visions”

The Nim Standard THE FAMILY IS EXPANDING

Claudio, it appears The Nim is evolving from a product into a brand.

Claudio Parolini, founder of The Nim Standard: Yes, we are attracting a great deal of interest across Europe and have secured new markets and partners. The Nim Standard family is growing! One reason is surely the service standard you provide. Absolutely. Reacting flexibly is super important for optimising sales. The exchange via Niklas Rill Agency is particularly close. Nik handles Germany and Austria for us, and the retail trade benefits from our close partnership. Feedback is always incorporated into the next season. What innovations do you have in store for the coming season? We intend to surprise with fabrics, washes, and details once more. We launched corduroy stretch for women last winter, as well as cargos, which were received better than expected. We continue to develop these styles alongside jeans. In the jeans collection, demand is growing for styles other than skinny. In the menswear collection, too, we feature several non-denims, such as corduroy trousers and chinos, which are sometimes cut a little wider, in addition to jeans as the core product. The detailing, such as buttons, patches, or pockets, is always authentic. www.thenimstandard.com

REFINED CLASSIC

The understated weekender by HEINZ BAUER MANUFAKT, made of highly robust bison leather, is manufactured in Germany and available in two sizes. One with a volume of 65 litres at a retail price of 1,999 Euros, and a smaller version with 55 litres for 1,799 Euros. www.heinzbauer.com

Development paired with authenticity: The Nim Standard

COZYNESS

BORN IN THE USA

Tintoria Mattei

DENIM Goldgarn

PANTS Alberto

PRINTS

Robert Friedman

SHINE ON Blauer USA

Juvia

UNITED COLORS Schneiders

BACK TO BLACK

Beloved pieces that just would not be as beautiful in colour. In nappa leather, in satin, in denim – black has reclaimed its prime position. Straight from the catwalks, the new desire for darkness is shifting the focus back to designers’ craft. After all, if you want to try your hand on a black canvas, you had better be

Goldgarn

Michael Kors

Jetset

Mac PNTS

Robert Friedman

Stylism

Nine to 9

Alberto

BORN IN THE USA

Van life, log cabin, or a near-venture in the city? Rough and tough, masculine and rugged. Especially fabulous when combined with denim and performance wear – loose silhouettes and not too much heritage or old school. Playful, colourful, and a little crazy –do not take this trend too seriously. After all, this is about playful-

Tenue Denim

Marc O’Polo x Chevignon

Borelio

Tintoria Mattei

Stetson

Fire + Ice x POW

Liebesglück

Circolo 1901

Ecoalf

CHARACTER

The unconditional desire to stand out: setting

Strellson

Alberto

Crime Code

Soldout

Pride to Be

Steven K

Floris van Bommel

D E N I

The wide leg is undisputed, and volume comes in new varieties. Cool and beautiful: black denim returns in all depths of washes! Alongside the much-loved everyday jeans, 2000s shapes are celebrating a comeback: O-shapes with twisted seams, low-slung and therefore perfect for pairing with lingerie or baby cropped tops.

PNTS

Drykorn

Alberto

Tintoria Mattei

Five Fellas

Mac

The Nim Standard

Tenue Denim

Seldom

GARÇONNE

PNTS

Dolores

GTA

Alysi

Le Sarte Pettegole

Mac

Bogner

Alysi

Pride to Be

Milestone

Funky Staff

Liebesglück

Schneiders

Phil Petter

Strellson

Cargo is back. At times sophisticated in classic outfits (Goodbye, jog pants!), at times completely exalted in eye-catching materials and exaggerated widths. Originating in street and youth culture, cargos are now finding their way into classic wardrobes. More varied than ever: woollen trousers,

PANTS

Alberto

Circolo 1901

GTA

Mac

Dolores

Mac

CG – Club of Gents

Alysi

Funky Staff

Soldout

PRINTS

Never all-over or crazily mixed, but rather as a striking mono-piece in an outfit. Team Wallpaper is starting to hunt for old Prada and Miu Miu pieces in their own archives or on vintage platforms, and is indulging in 1970s colours. Team Progress prefers to wear the pattern on jackets and puffers, applied in innovative digital printing processes. As cool as it is

Jetset

Le Sarte Pettegole

Robert Friedman

Strellson

Fire + Ice x LoveShackFancy

Cinque

Raffaello Rossi

Tintoria Mattei

Nobis

SHINE ON

All that glitters here is gold. When it comes to down and eco puffers, more can once more be more. Shiny materials, coated, in patent looks, or even in glittering silver and gold: definitely a different jacket than last season. Perfectly complemented by festive and holiday themes that are simply radiant, fun-loving, and party-friendly.

Save the Duck

Karl Lagerfeld

Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini

Jetset

Sportalm

Tatras

Nobis

White Space

IQ Studio

COZYNESS

As much craftsmanship as the knitting machine allows: creativity with a special touch. Excellent for creating that one focal point in an outfit. Magnets in any store, as the cuddly pieces literally beg to be touched and tried on. Feelings to wear, but always justifiable, because all this artistry is so obviously valuable.

Douie

Matéma

Douie

Rosa & Me

Mouleta

Ecoalf

Tom Ripley

Cividini

Bogner

COLORS

Good vibes included: colour as a mood booster, as an antithesis to all the bad news. Still popular allover, ensuring that the joie de vivre is impossible to overlook. Sophis ticated and street wear-inspired, the combination of primary colours with black makes the colour pop that little bit more.

Someday Cinque

Caliban

Strellson

Orciani

Drykorn

Oilily

Lu Li Lina

Vic Matié

“I am always available. That is my job.” Niklas Rill listens carefully to what suppliers and customers have to say.

A new, proprietary showroom in Düsseldorf’s Kaiserswerther Strasse, featuring a carefully curated portfolio of owner-managed brands. Niklas Rill has achieved remarkable progress with his eponymous agency within a short period of time.

Nik, what is new with you?

Niklas Rill, owner of Niklas Rill Fashion Agency: With Seldom, I have a second German partner on board alongside DU4. I have realised what an asset that is, as distances are short, and I can visit the production sites at short notice. Seldom offers enormous potential, especially in the womenswear segment. The seamless knitwear avoids waste and boasts a super high-quality look thanks to GOTS-certified yarns. I am really excited about showing the collection to my customers. The same goes for Noova. Besides the cool, casual look, the sneakers impressed me with their comfort and high-quality finish. Retail prices between 220 and 280 Euros are spot on. You are now in charge of sales for Outhere in Austria.

This creative collection from Padua is really fun. You can tell how the feedback from retailers is being implemented. The total look comprises three elements: highly innovative, sportswear, and classics. The topic of the new season is empathy, there is no better way to put it. Values are important to the company, as they are to me.

Your agency is not only defined by its brands, but also by its personal touch. How do you operate?

It is important to me that the partners behind the products represent great personalities. That makes our collaboration all the more successful. Communication is the be-all and end-all, not least with retail customers. Especially in this day and age, it comes naturally to me to exchange goods occasionally. With DU4, for example, the personal aspect works fantastically. The current season builds on the highly successful summer collection, and on top of that DU4 maintains a large warehouse in Mönchengladbach.

The Nim’s Claudio Parolini is another close partner. Absolutely. He was the reason I launched the agency in the first place. The product is evolving into a real brand, which is becoming increasingly popular on an international scale. Scandinavia and Benelux have been added to Italy, Spain, France, and the German-speaking markets. Excellent sales figures prove that the denim collection is not merely cutting-edge, but also highly customer oriented.

Labels: Bowery NYC, DU4, Noova, Outhere, Seldom, The Nim Standard Niklas Rill Fashion Agency, Düsseldorf/Germany, niklasrill@icloud.com, www.niklasrill.de

Niklas Rill Fashion Agency

Shirts by DU4 are among the highest quality pieces in the entry-level luxury price range.

New fabrics and exciting details at The Nim.

Michaelis Fashion Agency STABILITY

“Continuity is the new creativity”, says René Michaelis. This encapsulates the credo of the agency he runs in partnership with Daniela Michaelis. Yet brand innovation is not overlooked. Freedomday combines style and functionality in fashionable outerwear. Absolut Cashmere is undergoing a surge of innovation too, for example with superfine knitted cashmere that can be worn all year round and is complemented by coarser knitwear and matching shirts – in 36 vibrant colours! Retail prices for pure cashmere pieces remain unchanged, ranging from 199 to 249 Euros. “Goldgarn is particularly successful. The jeans label has cornered the market in a very short time,” says René Michaelis. A reason to step up the pace even more, with new denims and styles for women in a softer texture. Yippie Hippie has been on board since its beginnings. “The collection reinvents itself every season, while always remaining true to the roots of its market segment. Magnificent!”

Labels: Absolut Cashmere, Yippie Hippie, Goldgarn, Freedomday, Shade, Crickit, Leomax Cashmere, Genesis Michaelis Fashion Agency, Munich/Germany, mail@michaelis-fashion-agency.com, www.michaelis-fashion-agency.com

A byword for exquisite cashmere in a wide range of colours: Absolute Cashmere.

MODEist COME VISIT!

Marion Hoferer and her son Timothy are heading into the new season with an expanded team. No wonder, given that MODEist has significantly broadened both stylistically and brand-wise. “I am particularly pleased that you can now recognise both our identities in the brand portfolio. Two generations, two styles – that is what makes it so exciting for our clients,” Marion Hoferer laughs. The entrepreneur attaches great importance to ensuring a coherent assortment can be created from MODEist’s collections. “We always have one specialist per segment, whom we fully endorse. We advise our retailers in depth on how we can tailor these collections to their local requirements.” This season’s newcomers include Viamailbag, bags with interchangeable straps from Italy, and Nine to 9, a daily chic label made of high-quality technical jersey. Also new are Silk95Five, a flowing soft silk uni-dress label from London, and Ko Samui Tailors, an Italian insider tip that the duo wants to stage as more than just a t-shirt brand. “We have so many new stories to tell, so our advice is to come visit, take your time, and rediscover the MODEist portfolio,” says Timothy Hoferer. Labels: Alpaca Loca, Ayen, Catarzi, Dolores, Douie, Floer, Ko Samui Tailors, Lost in Me, Nine to 9, Pride to Be, Seamless Basic, Silk95Five, SoldOut, Stylism, Viamailbag, Wald MODEist, Munich & Düsseldorf/Germany, info@b-kleidung.de, www.modeist.com

Modeagentur

Klaus TIME TO ACT

Absolut Cashmere is new at Agentur Klaus, offering innovative knitwear in many colours. “The success of our clients clearly proves that consumers are looking for fashionable assortments,” says Christian Klaus. “Retailers capable of staging these products and conveying them with sales competence are on the winning side.”

The agency offers the corresponding tools in a compact portfolio. Freedomday, for example, impresses with new ideas, new qualities, and artfully designed lining for its outerwear. “Penn & Ink N.Y has created a lifestyle world that makes the New York DNA tangible. Classic is the new cool,” Klaus explains. JcSophie of the Netherlands implements femininity in a casual way while remaining minimalist in design, featuring details that only reveal themselves at second glance. The label processes light and soft natural materials in restrained colours and delicate prints. “We love affordable, fresh labels with a clear brand message that offer retailers an opportunity to build strong partnerships.”

Labels: Absolut Cashmere, Freedomday, Funky Staff, Gustav, Henriette Steffensen Copenhagen, Humility, Knit-ted, Kyra, JcSophie, Marc Aurel, Margittes, Oakwood, Penn & Ink N.Y

Modeagentur Klaus, Salzburg/Austria, office@modeagentur-klaus.at, www.modeagentur-klaus.at

A perfect partner for both Modeagentur Klaus and retailers: Penn & Ink N.Y.

Agentur SchulzAco

IN FLOW

Plenty of energy and positive signals: Michael Schulz has been blazing his own trail with his Düsseldorf agency SchulzAco for two years. Now he is expanding the presence on several levels: a new showroom in Munich, promising newcomers, and a strategy that takes market pace into account. Michael, the Rinascimento collection is a new addition to your portfolio. Sales started mid-November. Tell us more, please.

Michael Schulz, owner of SchulzAco: Rinascimento is a total look collection that translates Italian style in a contemporary way, featuring feminine looks that appeal to more than just one type of woman. I believe this versatility is what makes the brand so successful, and it already boasts 250 points of sale in the German market. Another strength is the sales rhythm, which is why we started selling the semi-pronto collection mid-November. It will hit stores in February 2023.

How important are pre-collections to your concept?

Very important, because it means that the agency rests on two pillars comprising pre- and main collections. This allows us to supply our retail partners with up-to-date fashion all year round, which is very much in line with market demand. Our total look collections, which follow the usual rhythm of two main collec-

tions per year, are still performing strongly. They include Pinko, Twinset, Liviana Conti, and Elisabetta Franchi. The same goes for Alysi, a wonderful, trend-oriented niche collection that is another new addition to our portfolio. It has already found retail admirers such as Savoir Vivre and Jimmy + Jo.

Some people criticise pre-collections for pushing even more merchandise onto the market.

Obviously, they need to be targeted and adjusted according to demand. During the pandemic, pre-collections gained even more importance. They permit delivery over five months of the season instead of two. The transitions between main- and pre-collections are therefore more fluid, with the advantage that retailers can add fresh impulses to their assortments throughout. To this end, a close exchange is crucial, and so is our service as an agency.

Labels:

SchulzAco Agentur, Düsseldorf & Munich/Germany, kontakt@acomode.de, www.acomode.de

Allessia Santi, Alysi, Attic&Barn, Beatrice B, Borsalino, Borbonese, Elisabetta Franchi, Liviana Conti, Maliparmi, Momoni, Oofwear, Parosh, Pinko, Rinascimento, Twinset, Who’s Who

Service is top priority for Michael Schulz, whose agency SchulzAco supplies retailers with fresh fashion all year round.

Pinko is one of the agency’s long-standing partner brands.

Cool contemporary: Liviana Conti.

NOTHING LIKE WATER

FW23 COLLECTION

In 2023, Save The Duck is engaged to balance its bulk production water consumption by providing clean water to the Sumba population (Indonesia) in need. www.sumbafoundation.org

Discover more on our website www.savetheduck.it

4pm-the agency WELCOME!

Patric Maly is a newcomer to the agency community. The native Tyrolean accumulated more than ten years of sales experience at major brands such as G-Star, Asics, and Tiger of Sweden before launching his own business, 4pmthe agency, in Munich. “I have always strived to build sustainable and long-term relationships with my partners, and this will also be the guiding principle of my decisions for the agency,” Maly says. “I choose my brands very deliberately, to ensure that I can represent them credibly.” One example is Dutch brand Butcher of Blue for men and women, which Maly represents in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. “The brand’s roots lie in denim, and the brand’s founders, Bob and Maarten Rijnders, pool decades of denim expertise.” The men’s collection by fashion-forward outerwear brand Reset is also part of the new agency’s portfolio. Besides, there are premium leather boots by Uncle Bright of Denmark and premium underwear by Aaksel of Austria, complemented by home and body care products by Marie-Stella-Maris, also of the Netherlands.

Label: Aaksel, Butcher of Blue, Marie-Stella-Maris, Reset, Uncle Bright 4pm-the agency, Munich/Germany, patric@4pm-agency.com, www.4pm-agency.com

Iconic pattern: sneakers by Missoni recycle the brand’s leftover fabrics.

Unifa THE FLAIR OF LA

Back to the roots. The Unifa showroom has been located on Kaiserswerther Strasse, where the history of the fashion agency began, for two seasons now. Today, Reinhard Haase’s business concentrates on carefully curated brands. True Religion launched its pre-collections in November and is celebrating its 20th anniversary. With the Originals line, the premium label delivers LA vibes, including college jackets and jeans featuring iconic horseshoe stitching. The total look collection, which Unifa Group is responsible for under licence for Europe and has successively expanded, ties in seamlessly. The Wildfox collection also reflects the flair of LA, while in-house brand Jadicted focuses on fashionable, wearable womenswear, featuring cashmere-elastane knitwear in fun colours, aviator pants and dresses, and suits and waistcoats for special occasions. G-Lab offers premium outerwear that combines fashion and function: pieces that, due to their quality, have what it takes to become enduring favourites. The portfolio also includes AG Jeans, for which Unifa Group is in charge of design and Europe-wide sales – with the exception of Germany, Austria, and Switzerland, which are handled by Komet & Helden.

Labels: AG Jeans, G-Lab, Jadicted, True Religion, Wildfox Unifa, Düsseldorf/Germany, info@unifa-fashion.com, www.unifa-fashion.com

Room Nine Fashion Agency STATEMENT

This new addition to Room Nine Fashion Agency is a statement. Tatras offers Italian high-quality outerwear with high fashion standards, with Japanese roots. “So far, this fantastic brand is still flying under the radar in Germany. We strive to change that,” says Torsten Müller. The Missoni sneakers for men and women evoke the brand’s DNA by featuring the iconic pattern and are made of leftover fabric from the Missoni collections. Sustainability is also the motto of ACBC’s sneakers: anything can be changed. The unisex shoes from Italy achieved Block B certification for the third time in a row, meaning they are vegan, made of recycled material, and finished fairly. Loungewear by Ron Dorff of Paris is launching a capsule in collaboration with How I Met Your Mother actor Neill Patrick Harris. Rails of LA specialises in casual check shirts in soft qualities. Also on board are shirts and sweats with Steve Mc Queen motifs by Hero Seven, as well as t-shirts, sweats, and socks featuring Snoopy prints by In the Box. Finally, the portfolio includes Pringle socks with Argyle patterns and Moschino underwear.

Labels: ACBC, Hero Seven, In the Box, Missoni Sneaker, Moschino, Rails Men, Ron Dorff, Soho NY, Pringle, Tatras Room Nine Fashion Agency, info@roomnineagency.de, www.roomnineagency.de

Jadicted, Unifa’s in-house brand, delivers dressy looks.

Patric Maly plans to showcase Butcher of Blue at the Goldberg Studios in Munich’s Glockenbach district from the end of January to mid-February.

Die Hinterhofagentur INDIVIDUAL AGENDA

“After three years of bestseller marketing due to the pandemic, we are witnessing a surge of innovation among our partners. Courage has returned,” enthuses Dominik Meuer of Die Hinterhofagentur. The Munich agency welcomes two newcomers. Borélio of Belgium is a ready-to-wear specialist that can produce highly individually due to its own production facilities in Eastern Europe. Customers can choose fabrics and components. In addition, the brand offers an independent measurement platform. The second newcomer is Waxed of Italy, and the name says it all. This is the antithesis to technical jackets. This focused, cool, authentic men’s jacket label exclusively processes waxed cotton. BOB’s upcoming collection also exhibits great innovative spirit, featuring extremely accomplished outerwear pieces as highlights. “Moreover, Hartford has already enjoyed an excellent run in the women’s and men’s categories for the summer season. This will be extended,” Meuer smiles.

Labels: Ad Hoc, Atelier Alpiniste, Bob, Borélio, Des Petits Hauts, FourTen, Hartford, Koike, Original Vintage Style, Portofiori, Prime Shoes, RRD, Sophie, The Jack & Jackie, Waxed, Wool & Co Die Hinterhofagentur, Munich/Germany, info@diehinterhofagentur.de, www.diehinterhofagentur.de

Instead of stubbornly buying bestsellers, retailers have now regained their courage, argues Dominik Meuer.

Paul’s Selection POTENTIAL

Henderson is on the rise. “The shoes show great potential. Demand for the welted shoes, which are very comfortable due to high-quality leather and a flexible sole finish, is increasing,” says Paul Schulz. “The collection is about to grow again by including casual-classic styles for men.” The sneakers for women are equally successful. Trouser specialist GTA is also expanding its range for women. Core competences? Besides fit and quality, they include the patented waist comfort band that makes trousers comfortable to wear and eliminates the need for intermediate sizes. “The first delivery went really well. We are receiving repeat orders despite the difficult times,” says Schulz, who is currently bolstering his team. Sprayed 3D knitwear by Arovescio for women and men can be worn on both sides, at retail prices ranging from 200 to 400 Euros. The portfolio also includes blouses by Sonrisa made of piecedyed jersey, which is both low-maintenance and crease-resistant.

Labels: Arovescio, Fabiano Ricci, GTA, Ghirardelli, Henderson, I’m Fine, Sonrisa, Veneta Cinture

Paul’s Selection, Düsseldorf/Germany, office@paulsselection.com, www.paulsselection.com

Agentur MNE MARKET PROXIMITY

The Dawid Tomaszewski collection is a very recent addition to Mark Etzold and Hannah Böhringer’s sales agency. “We are excited by its luxurious ready-to-wear range with couture appeal,” says Mark Etzold. “The Berlin label is characterised by extraordinary prints in bright colours on high-end silk fabrics.” Retail prices range from 500 to 600 Euros. The Lu Li Lina collection is close to market demands. “We enjoyed a fantastic summer season, which we now want to build upon with printed wool dresses that are very comfortable to wear. Fittingly, we have expanded the winter coats segment, offering a wide range of shapes, from fitted to oversized, in vibrant colours. They are perfect for creating a layered look with dresses. Coats that are not too warm, and complement dresses, are exactly what retailers desire.” Add to that a highly elastic and low-maintenance nylon viscose knit for dresses that cut a fine figure. At a mark-up of 3.0, retail prices range from 300 to 400 Euros.

Labels: Dawid Tomaszewski, Lu Li Lina, Mouleta, Samantha Sung, White T Agentur MNE, info@mne-fashion.de, www.mne-fashion.de

Henderson combines traditional workmanship with innovation.

Perfect match: Lu Li Lina offers coats to match very wearable dresses.

Heritage Showroom

TOP PERFORMER

Michael, everything is pointing towards portfolio streamlining.

Michael Brockmann, Managing Director of Heritage Showroom: Yes, we are starting the season with three brands. We feel most comfortable with our small team in this constellation. It allows us to closely observe all processes and offer optimal service. Women’s blouses and dresses by Robert Friedman, which are available in many variations and exclusive prints, are a new addition to our portfolio. Circolo 1901 remains a major presence. The brand remains a top supplier of jersey, especially jersey jackets and match-

ing trousers – a dressy look with great wearability. In the women’s segment, dresses and coats are developing very well. The third brand is Myths. Its menswear is performing sensationally. One example are trousers in technical quality with a flannel look for autumn, which are not too warm and very comfortable to wear. These trousers are very popular at Lodenfrey, Helmut Eder, and Breuninger. Additional variants will be introduced next season.

Labels: Circolo 1901, Myths, Robert Friedman Heritage Showroom, Munich/Germany, info@heritage-showroom.de, www.heritage-showroom.de

Knallgrau Agentur

“The core of DawnxDare is fabulously beautiful knitwear, handcrafted by small manufacturers in southern Tuscany,” gushes Harry Heinrich, whose agency is responsible for sales from the autumn/ winter season 2023 onwards. Shirtaporter impresses with refined design and styles that are occasionally more decorative, featuring prints, brooches, embroidery, or sequins. Floor, an Italian total look collection, also offers knitwear manufactured in its homeland. Noumeno of Veneto is a more athletic addition to the portfolio. The label provides sweats and hoodies, complemented by outerwear. www.knallgrau-agentur.de

Floor specialises in innovative Italian knitwear.

Säck & Nolde

The US import specialist from Bochum – inter alia responsible for Stüssy sales in Germany, Austria, and the Benelux countries – has added Californian 1990s cult label Gramicci to its portfolio to coincide with its 30th anniversary last year. Gramicci, best known for its casual climbing and hiking trousers, has long been a full-collection outdoor brand under Japanese ownership. In Germany, it is stocked by high-end outerwear stores like Deru in Munich, as well as by streetwear and sneaker specialists. www.saeckundnolde.de

Ben And NEW COO FROM TIGHA

Ben Botas has reinforced his fashion agency’s secondary management tier: Mark Weerts joined Ben And as COO in November. The 40-year-old had been on the management board of ACTC (Tigha) since 2018. Mark Weerts: “I am looking forward to working with the team and Ben. I will assist them in strengthening the pillars of the business and create opportunities to maximise untapped potential.” Ben Botas: “We have grown considerably in the last few years in terms of turnover, number of brands (25), and employees (32). I have been looking for two years and have finally found a perfect strategy expert in Mark. He will primarily focus on the internal strategic direction of the company. I, for my part, will concentrate on sales, manufacturer relations, and business development.” According to Ben Botas, the reason for this shift is a completely new requirement profile for fashion agencies: “Our business now only partially concerns sales. When a brand has developed a certain strength, the most important aspect is to support the brand properly. For us, that does not mean selling as much as possible, but rather compiling the perfect assortment, providing intensive customer and floor support, and offering analyses and reports during the sales phase on the floors and online. In short, it is a question of optimising performance.” Ben And has invested heavily to achieve this level: “Among other things, we have invested in Sales Force, a system that offers perfect internal analyses, but also delivers detailed and clear reports to our producers externally. In addition, we appointed a Retail Field Manager, who provides daily support to our retailers on site, in March 2020. This includes the analysis of sales floors and competitors, optimisation of visual merchandising and placements, sales training, performance optimisation, and detailed reporting to our suppliers. We have registered a significant improvement in performance in this regard,” concludes Ben Botas.

Labels: Axel Arigato, Banana Moon, Beck Söndergaard, Cashmere Me, Chimi, GCDS, Gina Tricot, Hey Marly, Hi-Tec, Elias Rumelis, Filippa K, Free People, Les Visionnaires, Mason’s, Minimum, Moose Knuckles, NA-KD, Off-Play, Peuterey, Preach, Rag & Bone, Second Female, Stefan Brandt, Weekday, Wood Wood Ben And, Munich/Germany, agency@ben-and.com, www.ben-and.com

25 brands and 32 employees – Ben And is strengthening its structure in order to further professionalise all tasks that are essential in addition to traditional sales work.

Women’s blouses by Robert Friedman are a new addition to Heritage Showroom’s portfolio.

Agentur MAB FULL POWER, FULL CONCENTRATION

MAB has exciting news. Beautiful Struggles is an urban streetwear label created by former Bundesliga and US national team star Danny Williams. “The first retail partnership in Germany was incredibly successful. High-profile VIPs such as Neymar, Leroy Sane, Jerome Boateng, and Serge Gnabry wear the label,” says Regis Benabou. Another new addition is Gaia Gaia’s high contemporary womenswear, designed by the former owners and designers of Zoe Karssen. Overall, all signs point to streamlining. “We are handling less collections with more employees, which allows us to respond swifter to requests from customers and partners,” Benabou explains. “The strong overall sales performance of our brands proves this strategy right.” One example is Steven-K, offering outerwear and leggings made of leather and shearling, followed by Ba&sh, The Kooples, Mes Demoiselles, and Designers Remix. Ed Hardy is celebrating a comeback, reviving its typical rock attitude that appeals to younger fans. All collections can be viewed at the Düsseldorf agency, some at Supreme Munich. The only exception is designer label 3:1 Philip Lim of New York, which is exclusively showcased in Paris.

Labels: 3:1 Philip Lim, Ba&sh, Beautiful Struggles, Designers Remix, Ed Hardy, Gaia Gaia, Mes Demoiselles, Steven-K, The Kooples

Agentur MAB, Düsseldorf/Germany, info@mab-fashion.com, www.mab-fashion.com

Aco Modeagentur AN INSTITUTION TURNS 50

“The only constant is change,” Rudolf Kail MBA, founder and long-time CEO of Aco Modeagentur, reminisces. The success story began in Vienna in 1973, when Kail was chosen as sales representative for knitwear collections Cerruti 1881 and Armani. Back then, he presented the collections to customers across Austria from his car. After opening showrooms in Salzburg and Düsseldorf, the sales agency evolved into a leading force in Central Europe. It even served Eastern European clients, as well as a large number of mono-brand stores and shop-in-shop concepts in well-known department stores. Kail, an enthusiastic Pitti visitor from the very beginning and an excellent networker, has always represented a large number of renowned international designer labels. In 2006, the agency reached its peak size representing brands such as Dolce & Gabbana and Moschino. Kail believes that an important factor for long-term success are his reliable, loyal partners. He has since scaled down his agency business and taken the plunge into the retail and online business. His fashion boutique Icon opened in Salzburg’s city centre in 2017, showcasing high fashion brands such as Dolce & Gabbana, Balenciaga, and Lanvin. The next change is scheduled for 2023: the opening of a new showroom in Salzburg’s Fashionpark.

Labels: Maliparmi, Semicouture, Liviana Corti Aco Modeagentur, Vienna & Salzburg/Austria, www.acomode.at, www.icon-salzburg.com

Good News Agency WEARABLE ART

New to the portfolio for Germany and Austria are the Talking Walls scarves and skirts by Belgian designer Philippe Pelsmaekers. The artwork is sourced from artists worldwide and then applied to cashmere, silk, modal, or wool. There is a choice of 20 styles in around 60 designs, available in 140x140cm single or double face, as well as 200x100cm single face versions. Alongside winter and summer collections, the label also offers additional capsule collections, which are available all year round B2B. Retail prices range from 120 to 400 Euros. The scarves come

beautifully packaged in sustainable boxes containing the geo-coordinates of the artwork and the background story of the respective artist. The list of retail partners includes Burresi Wiesbaden, Horst Wanschura Stuttgart, Tutto Frankfurt am Main, imagine all things Santa Barbara, Peipers & Kojen New York City, Desert Nizza, Les Appartement de Juju Besançon, Spinnaker San Remo, and Verde Lilla Turin.

Labels: Bomboogie, Flona, Skills & Genes, Talking Walls

Good News Agency, Munich/Germany, info@good-news-agency.de, @goodnewsagency

The scarves by Talking Walls remind us that we are permanently surrounded by beautiful things, if only we open our eyes.

Ba&sh is one of the strongest core collections at MAB.

Rudolf Kail MBA, founder and long-time CEO of Aco Modeagentur.

Meier & Rybinski Modeagentur BACK TO THE NINETIES

Romeo Gigli makes its comeback as a new addition to the Meier & Rybinski portfolio. “Romeo Gigli symbolises non-decorative geometric and organic structures that envelop the wearer in high-quality materials,” says Anna-Zoi Rybinski. “The revolutionary egg shape evokes a new renaissance in fashion.” Another newcomer is knitwear by Crochè of Tuscany. “For this very fresh and saleable collection, the small label collaborates with the renowned company Maglificio Laura Patrizia,” says Anna-Zoi Rybinski. At a mark-up between 2.9 and 3.0, purchase prices start from 45 Euros. Kash Cashmere is the third addition to the agency’s portfolio, offering feminine, flattering cashmere knitwear in vibrant colours. Deliveries and reorders arrive at retailers on time due to in-house production capacities. PIN 1876 by Botto Giuseppe embodies high-quality, super-light cashmere scarves in a wide range of colours, from bright colours to soft autumnal shades – in melange or plain.

Labels: Annie Paris, Alessandro de Benedetti, PIN 1876 by Botto Giuseppe, Cocoa London, Crochè, Kash Cashmere, Kerry Grima, Max & Moir Paris, Panicale Cashmere, Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, Romeo Gigli Meier & Rybinski Modeagentur, Düsseldorf/Germany, anna@meier-rybinski.de, www.meier-rybinski.de

WOTE offers sweatshirts, hoodies, t-shirts, and trousers that are not limited to short-term hypes.

Stefan Wittmann Agency TOP PLAYER

Michael Kors’ tailoring, loungewear, and underwear lines are new to the agency’s portfolio. “We are enthusiastic about this sensational collection,” says Stefan Wittmann, sales representative in Germany. “It impresses with image, fashion grade, and high-quality materials.” New since last season are fashionable sneakers by Crime London, a celebrity label by the Kistermann Sisters, who have gained many admirers such as Rihanna and Alessandra Ambrosio with their playful style. Typical styles include colourful sneakers featuring distressed soles, as well as skateboard and basketball sneakers for men and women, at average retail prices between 160 and 180 Euros. “Knitwear remains incredibly important to us,” Wittmann adds. “This is a strength of Daniele Fiesoli, who has been an agency partner for eleven years. There are so many stories we could tell regarding the yarns alone. For example, the family business processes finest 16-gauge silk, or utilises the best long staple

The Last of the True Conserving resources

Stefan Kudla and his agency have assumed responsibility for the sales of unisex fashion label WOTE. Founded in 2020 by Britta Doppelfeld and Matthias Jobst, the brand aims to reconcile sustainable, fairly produced clothing with design, quality, and timelessness. The two founders have accumulated more than 25 years of experience in the fashion industry. The realisation that they could not – and did not want to – continue as before was the first major step towards the launch of the Würzburg-based fair fashion start-up. WOTE stands for Water, Ocean, Trees & Earth. By teaming up with ClimatePartner, the brand intends to manufacture climate-neutrally right from the start. www.last-of-the-true.com

cotton from the Nile Delta. The price-performance ratio is fantastic!” The same applies to Daniele Fiesoli’s women’s collection Collezione N_01, and the new upcycled cashmere collection.

The agency’s high-flyer is Les Deux. “We started with the collection at 0 and now supply 300 doors in Germany – with the exception of southern Germany – including Engelhorn, L&T, KaDeWe, and Søren in Hagen.” What started with the perfect pair of trousers has evolved into a total look for men, featuring sweats, shirts, overshirts, coats, and jackets. The brand behaves entrepreneurially in the best sense of the term. It organises events at customers, implements pop-up stores, and realises shop-inshop concepts. A service that receives optimal support from agencies like Stefan Wittmann. Labels: Collezione N_01, Crime London, Daniele Fiesoli, La Fée Maraboutée, Les Deux, Michael Kors, Wunderfell Stefan Wittmann Agency, Düsseldorf/Germany, stefan.wittmann@agentur-wittmann.de, www.agentur-wittmann.de

Top-selling total look: Les Deux.

Modern femininity by Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini.

Agentur Ventrella CREATIVE COLLABORATION LEADS TO SUCCESS

Gaby, Michele, you traditionally make lengthy visits to your suppliers in November. How did it go?

Gaby Ventrella, Agentur Ventrella: This is always a very inspiring journey, where we do not simply talk about numbers, but also have an in-depth, creative exchange about designs and fits. Permanent collaboration with our brands is our recipe for success. This allows us to tailor the collections perfectly to our market! What is the news for the season?

Michele Ventrella, Agentur Ventrella: Our brands are highly innovative, once again delivering a new level of creativity. Avant Toi is moving further towards hand-painted cashmere, naturally without neglecting its wellknown lines and bestsellers. We are convinced that NineintheMorning offers some of the most modern trousers on the market. The fits are exceptional. I could rave about AL_AIN forever, as this blend of streetwear and North African influences is absolutely unique. This kind of mix has not been seen before, which appeals to well-informed, bold customers.

Labels: 813, 820, AL_AIN, Avant Toi, Backsideclub, Bazar Deluxe, Bush, Caliban, Cheeky Chain, College, Ennequadro, Giovi, Inóa, Le Sarte Pettegole, Ndv Project, Nove, NineintheMorning, Pao, Tagliatore, Tintoria Mattei

Agentur Ventrella, Munich & Düsseldorf/ Germany, mode@agentur-ventrella.de, www.agentur-ventrella.de

ODEONSPLATZ

Rosh Studio NEW SHOWROOM ON

As of this season, Roshan Paul’s sales agency is relocating to a new showroom in Munich’s city centre, directly on Odeonsplatz. The first Nubikk flagship store in Germany will open on the ground floor below soon. Befitting the new showroom, the brand portfolio also welcomes a new addition: sneaker brand Corail from southern France. The trainers are made of plastic waste brought ashore by Marseille fishermen in their boats. 20 metric tons of marine litter have been collected so far. Old nets and plastic bottles are shredded and processed into granulate before being transformed into a material known as Seadust. Both uppers and soles are crafted from recycled materials, rubber, and seaweed in Portugal.

Sustainable and luxurious: Adar sneakers are a new addition to the Orderlounge portfolio.

Retail prices for the unisex sneakers range from 160 to 195 Euros. Presently, three models are available in 10 colourways each.

Labels: Corail, Lemon Jelly, Nobrand, Nubikk

Rosh Studio, Munich/Germany, roshan@rosh.studio, www.rosh.studio

A delicate touch of unconventionality is the hallmark of Agentur Ventrella.

Orderlounge

“With

says Giulia Calà. “Founded by Willy Anne Wijnja and Luca Matteo Manuzzi, the

combines ethical design with luxurious quality, ushering in a

era

premium high-fashion sneakers.” The outsole is made of recycled rubber, the upper of vegan apple leather and recycled polyester. The inside features bamboo fibres and biodegradable latex – all made in Italy. www.orderlounge.de

Corail transforms waste reclaimed from the Mediterranean into sneakers.

Adar, we have added the first 100 percent vegan luxury brand to our portfolio,”

label

new

of

Ibana’s ready-towear collection boasts plenty of colour and leather competence.

FASHION WITH A SEA VIEW

Bucharest today, Vienna tomorrow: Christian Teufl loves travelling and is, via his sales agency CCT Group, an equally committed partner for retailers. For the coming season, the Austrian not only has new collections to offer, but also surprising news to report.

Christian, your Düsseldorf showroom has relocated once more.

Christian Teufl, owner of CCT Group: Yes, here on Karl Arnold Platz we are very visible and can present on two floors. First and foremost Karl Lagerfeld: with the exception of ready-to-wear for men, we show everything from ready-to-wear womenswear, shoes, accessories to jewellery, beachwear, and underwear. The high-fashion collection is the only brand permitted to bear the name of the iconic designer. What news do you have regarding the agency?

We will start marketing the Kurt Geiger collection in Germany and Austria in February. The London-based brand has opened a branch in the Netherlands to meet service demands of the new expansion markets. Kurt Geiger was initially a high-priced shoe brand. For some years now, the accessories and handbag segment has been expanded considerably and accounts for almost 50 percent of turnover. Bags and shoes are wonderfully coordinated, something that only very few brands are capable of! The colourful ready-to-wear brand Ibana of Amsterdam has been on display in Düsseldorf and Salzburg for several seasons. Besides blouses and knitwear, Ibana offers powerful leather stretch items, as well as beautiful shearling pieces. The agents in Düsseldorf are Maria Shirafkan, Myriam Dressler, and Helena da Palma. I am very proud of my loyal team, with whom I work harmoniously even in difficult times like these.

Alongside the showroom in Düsseldorf and Munich’s Residenzstrasse, CCT Group is also present in Salzburg. What is on show there?

We brought in Baldessarini for Austria three seasons ago, and since then we have experienced a great upswing for Austria, South Tyrol, and P&C Eastern Europe. It pays off that Luca Reimer, who was recruited for the brand, is on the road every week providing POS training! Not to forget Peuterey and Twinset, which we also support with growing success, as well as Wolford in wholesale for Austria. Furthermore, we are now starting the

second winter sales season for Swiss luxury brand Capranea, which we will be exhibiting at Ösfa in Gusswerk.

You promised us another exciting piece of news. Yes, I am going to be a farmer. How so?

I purchased a parcel of land in Rovinj, Croatia. It is home to 400 olive trees, caper bushes, and lavender fields, and I will farm it 100 percent self-sufficiently. I will not only help with the olive harvest, but I would like to open a luxurious agricultural tourism business in 2024, featuring houses built in the typical Croatian style, a pool, and a helipad. The resident farmer’s family remains on site and cooks delicious food for the guests. Surrounded by nothing but nature, you have a beautiful view of the city and the sea. I would gladly share this with my friends and business partners!

Labels: 0039 Italy, Baldessarini, Canadian, Capranea, French Connection, FTC, Furla, Ibana, Karl Lagerfeld, Mou, Parise, Peuterey, Project AJ117, Shoebiz Copenhagen, Twinset, Wolford

CCT Group, Salzburg-Munich-Düsseldorf, office@teufl.cc, www.teufl.cc

CCT Group

Christian Teufl’s CCT Group is represented in Düsseldorf, Munich, and –last but not least – Salzburg.

Fashion statement: the Karl Lagerfeld brand.

FIT YOUR UNIQUENESS

Life is an everyday challenge.

Elvis Fashion Agency

RR’S – THE NEXT BIG THING

Elvis, you are embarking on a brand-new project for next season: RR’s – the premium collection by Roy Rogers. What are your expectations?

Elvis Giglione, owner of Elvis Fashion Agency: Niccolò Biondi, CEO of Roy Rogers parent company Sevenbell Group, the whole team, and I have been working on this new RR’s collection for a quite some time. It has been conceived specifically for the German-speaking region. The capsule is built around extremely refined jeans styles in high-quality denim with strong masculine features. In addition, we present luxurious knitwear pieces that round off the look beautifully. Reduced details displaying modern interpretations of buttons, rivets, and threads are particularly notable. Each garment features a lining made of Stephen Walters’ original fabrics. I believe this represents the next generation of premium jeans, the next big thing. What are your other portfolio brands up to? Are you satisfied with their performance?

I personally considered the last season to be incredibly successful. All labels performed well across the board; the small brands as well as the big brands, because they presented excellent collections that met market demand. This resulted in a steady increase in sales. We continue to consolidate our position in the premium and luxury segment. We are having fun and it energises us for the coming season.

Labels: Bagutta, Brooksfield, Capobianco, Cruna, Fioroni Cashmere, Francesco Pieri, Manto, RR’s, The Gigi, Tombolini Elvis Fashion Agency, Munich/Germany, elvis.giglione@elvis-fashion.com, www.elvisfashion.com

Agentur Matthias Schwarte ON COURSE

“An excellent relationship with top clients in our segment is the greatest asset for any agency,” says Matthias Schwarte. That is why he continues to expand his team without adding new collections. “Our partners are the local heroes in their respective cities. Achieving growth in partnership with them is the only way forward for our type of brands, which still rely so heavily on specialist retailers.” In the case of Parajumpers, this relationship now even extends to collection development. A handful of top customers from Europe were invited to an early sales meeting to jointly discuss specific models with the design team. “This is the kind of partnership we are delighted to embrace,” says Matthias Schwarte. Labels: Armani Exchange, Balr, Collezione 01, Daniele Fiesoli, Fil Noir, Mason Garments, Parajumpers, People of Shibuya, Replumè, Rubirosa, Sundek, Weber + Weber

Agentur Matthias Schwarte, Munich/Germany, office@agentur-schwarte.de, www.agentur-schwarte.de

An excellent blend of new arrivals and established portfolio brands: Elvis Fashion Agency.

A higher headcount while maintaining the same number of collections: Agentur Matthias Schwarte focuses on service and close cooperation.

Adventure Fashion Agency NEW IN: DISTRETTO 12 AND ANFINY

Marc, you have some big news at the start of the season. You are now the representative of Distretto 12 in Germany. What does that mean for Adventure Fashion Agency?

Marc Kofler, Managing Director of Adventure Fashion Agency: We are delighted to welcome Distretto 12 to our portfolio. A total look menswear collection of this quality and in this price segment is exactly what we have been looking for. Our aim is to diversify even more by offering our customers a wider range of excellent products. We believe that Distretto 12, with its modern Made in Italy concept, is a natural fit and we are sure that we will achieve great things together. There is another newcomer from the same stable as Distretto 12: Anfiny. Tell us more. Anfiny is conceived as a capsule collection, featuring six double-faced coats made of high-quality wool in 24 colour variations from autumn/winter 2023/24 onwards. In summer, it offers dresses for both everyday use and special occasions alongside light transitional jackets. The creators of Distretto 12, led by Alessandro Hong, possess a great deal of know-how when it comes to Made in Italy manufacturing. And this collection is so on point – we are really looking forward to it!

What other news do you have to report? We are known as an agency capable of developing brands continuously and sustainably. Italian jacket collection Duno is a fine example. We believe it has a great season ahead, because a great deal of budget will be reallocated within the jackets segment in particular. We are thrilled that Duno is stylistically convincing again.

Labels: 120% Lino, ADD, Anfiny, cosy love pure, Distretto 12, DL1961 Denim, Duno, iheart, Janthee Berlin, Kashette, odd molly, Orciani, Rosa & Me, Sebago, Tonno & Panna, trvl drss, trusted handwork Adventure Fashion Agency, Düsseldorf/Germany, info@adventure-gmbh.de, www.adventure-gmbh.de

A womenswear collection with an excellent price/performance ratio: K Kulture of Italy.

Agentur Prins-Juric THE ITALO-HOLLAND CONNECTION

Agentur Prins-Juric’s newcomers hail from two countries: Italy and Holland. Following knitwear label Amaranto, which Damir Prins-Juric brought into the agency at the end of last season, the agency has now shifted its focus to K Kulture, a label that offers sophisticated womenswear by Compagnia Italiana. “We see a great deal of potential, and, in general, we are convinced that womenswear is where most buyers are looking for change this season. We are sufficiently confident to say that our portfolio can offer such change,” says Damir Prins-Juric.

Another new arrival comes from the homeland of Henk Prins. Oilily is back! Bursting with vibrancy and colour, the exciting womenswear and childrenswear collection is well worth considering. Agentur Prins-Juric covers all regions of Germany except the north. “The brand enjoys a great deal of goodwill in Germany. In fact, everyone associates Oilily with positive emotions. Germany is the brand’s strongest e-commerce market, but the label is passionate about its wholesale presence and wants to attract devoted retailers. We are happy to support them in doing so,” says Henk Prins.

Labels: 1-one, Afterlabel, Amaranto, Ana Alcazar, Barb’One, Bobi Los Angeles, Brand Unique, Cacatoes, Camouflage Couture, Cute Stuff, De’Hart, Devotion Twins, Emily Love Lock, Emma & Gaia, Floor, Ganesh, Herzensangelegenheit, Husky, I love my Pants, Icon, Ivko, Johnny Was, Just Mine, Kandid Shoes, K Kulture, Koon, Les Tricots d`O, Love Joy Victory, Newtone, Nimo with Love, Not Shy, Oilily, Oneteaspoon, Penn & Ink N.Y, Rebelle, Smaak Amsterdam, Smashed Lemon, Socks CPH, Theras, Tocco, Voluspa, Wushu, Yukono

Agentur Prins-Juric, Berlin-Düsseldorf-Hamburg-Munich/ Germany, agentur@prins-juric.com, www.prins-juric.com

The purest Cashmere

Komet und Helden BUILDING ON STRENGTHS

“With Diadora, K-Way, and Invicta, we added three new brands with huge potential last season, and we want to build on that this season,” says Florian Ranft. What is particularly appealing about the brands is that they not only perform well in fashion retail, but also enjoy the same credibility in a sports environment. K-Way proved its sporting heritage with its trade show presence at ispo in November, where the brand flew its flag alongside its sister brands from the Basic Net Group. “The ispo date is ideal for holding preliminary talks on behalf of these brands,” says Henrik Soller. Who is the one newcomer that managed to bend the duo’s policy of not taking on a new brand? Plumes, a brand-new jacket collection from Italy, is the creation of distinguished specialists. The compact collection features leather and lambskin jackets, boots, and belts. With this portfolio, Komet und Helden started order talks early in December. “Strategic cooperation is growing in importance,” says Florian Ranft. Labels: AG Jeans, Aniven, Aspesi, Baracuta, Barena Venezia (Men), Blauer USA, C.T. Plage, Deus Ex Machina, Diadora, Dickies, Filson, In This Shirt, Invicta, K-Way, Le Bonnet, ottod’Ame, Purple Brand, Plumes, Save The Duck, 7for all Mankind, Universal Works, Varsity Headwear, White Sand Komet und Helden, Düsseldorf & Munich/Germany, info@kometundhelden.de, www.kometundhelden.de

Stolz Modeagentur HANDCRAFTED IN THE HIMALAYAS

Scarves and blankets by Atelier Alpiniste, woven on wooden looms, are new to the Austrian portfolio of the agency at Gusswerk in Salzburg. Cashmere is sourced from production remnants of renowned manufacturers and is hand-woven in traditional techniques by elderly people in Nepal, who can thus continue to provide their own income. The multi-colour unisex scarves are available in eight shades in the sizes Classic, Long, and XXL, as well as in the form of a cosy blanket. Labels: 2964Garmisch, Atelier Alpiniste, dirndl&bua, josef&anna, Kleidermanufaktur Habsburg, Manufaktur Grasegger, Me°rchen Me°dchen, Steiner1888, Wallmann Stolz Modeagentur, Showroom Gusswerk, Salzburg/Austria, office@hstolz.at, www.hstolz.at

Varsity Headwear is among the product champs within the Komet und Helden portfolio.

Agentur Wagner

“In addition to Fil Noir’s womenswear, we now also represent the brand’s menswear collection,” says Marcus Heck. “As a product, the shirt is independent. The quality is excellent, and the fashion factor is spot on. Corduroy and flannel in a broader range of colours are key for the autumn/winter collection. High-quality accessories by Dante, made in Germany with a focus on bright cashmere colours, are another new addition to the roster.” www.agenturwagner.com

Menswear by Fil Noir is a new addition to Markus Heck’s portfolio.

Hand-woven cashmere scarves and blankets from Nepal are new to the Stolz Modeagentur portfolio.

MMB Consulting “I AIM TO SHARE VISIONS!”

Those looking for something special and exclusive will find it at Monica Marando. The passionate Italian curates and markets exquisite collections across Europe that inspire with uniqueness, elegance, and modernity. Now she is opening a new chapter.

Monica, what does MMB Consulting represent?

Monica Marando, owner of MMB Consulting: Exceptionality and individuality. Each collection is unique, there is no overlap. What they have in common is elegance and understatement.

Plan C, for example, is a key brand for you.

Yes, the Plan C collection by Carolina Castiglioni, the daughter of the Marni founders, continues a family tradition yet embraces a young interpretation of fashion that’s all her own.

The Aliita jewellery concept is created by Cynthia Vilchez Castiglioni, Carolina’s sister-in-law. The fine jewellery reflects classic values that are translated into modern terms with playful ease. The collection is crafted in Italy, respecting the environment by using recycled paper packaging, for example.

What else characterises your portfolio?

Dušan, who used to work for Zoran, the first minimalist designer in NY. Only the finest qualities are selected for this androgynously elegant collection, which is exclusively manufactured in Italy.

Péro, on the other hand, is very feminine and romantic, a small project by an Italian family that I introduced last season. The designer is Indian, and the unique embroidered fabrics are lovingly handcrafted by Indian women. The high-priced collection is superbly positioned worldwide and is only available in the best stores in the US.

A new addition is the shoe label Koio of New York, which I market throughout Europe based on an outstanding international standing. The sneakers are manufactured in Italy and Switzer-

land. Important for the concept: the leather is sourced from happy cows and is tanned naturally. I first presented Koio in Paris, at Elisa Gaito’s premises, and the collection has already been very well received by German customers.

You have added a new field to your portfolio. Yes. Les Ortomans, a home-living label featuring cushions, tablecloths, and porcelain, makes everyone smile. I represent this collection, which is found in the best international stores, in Europe and present it to German customers in Munich in cooperation with Petra McAlpine. A table set by Les Ortomans puts you in such a good mood! It is also a real eye-catcher in fashion stores and whets the appetite for more. I aim to introduce a slice of Milan, Paris, New York to retailers in their stores. I aim to pass on my visions. The fact that my retail customers place great trust in my expertise and are inspired by my enthusiasm still gives me the greatest pleasure.

MMB Consulting, Übersee/Germany, info@marando.eu, Instagram: monicamarando_mmb Labels: Aliita, Dušan, Koio, Les Ortomans, Péro, Plan C

A collection inspired by architectural design: Plan C.

Monica Marando was on her way to Amsterdam to finish her bachelor’s degree as a lawyer when she stopped over in Germany to visit her uncle Franco Bruccoleri, founder of renowned European fashion agency Fashion Stage and later On Stage. This is where she discovered her passion for fashion. Today, Monica Marando is a dedicated ambassador for high-quality collections.

Made in New York of leather sourced from happy Cows: Koio.

Goldgarn Charity Prints

“The future begins in the present; we are aware of that. We need to proactively shape the quality of life of future generations today,” says Kerem Özcelik, founder of Goldgarn. Under the umbrella “Goldgarn Charity – From Mannheim to the World”, the brand supports charitable projects. The latest coup is a collaboration with the two Mannheim artists Martin and Götz of screen-printing workshop Antighost. The partners jointly developed two prints that take up the theme of water and implement it in a contemporary, artistic way. The shirts will be available in stores in spring 2023. For every T-shirt sold, Goldgarn Denim donates 5 Euros to the Water Is Right organisation to make healthy drinking water and sanitation accessible to all.

Vic Matie Global Thinker

A reality at last: Vic Matie has launched a global store for its multi-brand retailers. The strategic online sales partnership with Theshhhop officially starts in 2023. The objective is to connect the e-commerce department of the Italian shoe manufacturer from Arcevia with the inventories of its multi-brand customers. This powerful offer constitutes a vote of confidence in wholesalers, based on mutual support rather than competition, and has to date been accepted by 60 multi-brand stores. Among them are renowned names such as La Rinascente, Globus, Breuninger, El Corte Inglés, Galeries Lafayette, Printemps, Steffl, Harvey Nichols, Tsum, No One, and Fifty One East. By the end of the year, the number of partners is expected to grow to 100. This target is merely one further step towards increasing sales. The label recorded pre-Covid sales figures as early as 2021 and achieved 60 percent growth in turnover for the spring/ summer collection 2022. This was followed by a year-over-year double-digit turnover increase in 2022.

Premium denim brand Goldgarn joins forces with regional artists to launch an exclusive t-shirt collection for a good cause.

Ambitious and growth-oriented: Chris Wang has successfully positioned Duno on the international stage within a very short time.

Duno InnovationDriven Growth

Chris, 2022 was another incredibly successful year for Duno. Can we talk about numbers?

Chris Wang, CEO of Duno: You know I prefer to be coy about figures and turnover. However, I only have positive things to report about 2022. We far exceeded our forecasts and achieved a 30 percent gain in Europe. Our strongest regions were Germany and Scandinavia. We also experienced incredible growth in Italy, thanks to a sales network revamp and product repositioning. We are absolutely delighted. In Italy, we are now available at 240 points of sale. Does this mean that the focus will remain on growth in 2023?

Yes, exactly. We plan to support and promote growth by investing heavily, starting with our presence at the Pitti trade fair in January. We will showcase our brand in the Padiglione della Ghiaia on around 200 square metres, flying the flag proudly right at the beginning of the season. In 2023, we intend to strengthen international communication and organise events with retailers. We are looking to position ourselves in the German-speaking countries with a clear B2C strategy – it is time for us to be more assertive.

Let us talk about womenswear, where a great deal of work has gone into reducing weight and volume. We are taking climate change into account. We have therefore broken down our collection into different weight categories for the different phases of winter and introduced many lighter models, which increases our range and makes us more interesting for customers. We have also introduced wool fabrics and cashmere blends.

Vic Matie is known worldwide for its Made in Italy shoe collections and supplies 600 retailers in 34 countries.

Circolo 1901

Homeland in Focus

The brand from southern Italy started focusing its entire communication strategy on its home region of Puglia and its inhabitants several seasons ago. The campaigns mostly feature models alongside average people from the area around Barletta, the brand’s headquarters, and recount the latter’s stories. The images perfectly stage the unique nature of this region at the heel of Italy’s boot. The result is a simple, slightly nostalgic, and evocative visual language that whets the appetite for adventurous journeys down south, wearing outfits with a twist. The latest campaign, for example, depicts the landscapes and stories of Alta Murgia, a mysterious corner of Puglia that was long forgotten and is now experiencing a renaissance. With this campaign for Puglia, Gennaro Dargenio, CEO of Circolo 1901, aligns himself with a number of like-minded companies. They all wish to express their love of their homeland while reviving regional culture and the economy. The collective effort to restore the splendour of Alta Murgia is bearing fruit of international impact. Recently, films such as James Bond No Time to Die were shot here. In terms of fashion, Gucci consecrated the region with its colossal fashion show at Castel del Monte. Everyone in Italy agrees: Puglia is the place to be. www.circolo1901.it

Circolo 1901 is incredibly proud of its Puglia roots. The brand’s campaigns not only focus on fashion, but also on the region in which it is manufactured.

whose temperature you control via Apple Watch: Heatable Capsule Collection 2.0 by AlphaTauri.

Telekom Fashion Fusion x AlphaTauri

Interactive Jackets

The innovative smart fashion series by AlphaTauri, Deutsche Telekom, and Schoeller Textil has been expanded to include two new pieces in the form of Heatable Capsule Collection 2.0 (HCC 2.0): a timeless trench coat for men and women made of water-repellent functional fabric, featuring an insulating cork shell lining, and a fully reflective unisex commuter jacket. Both styles, powered by an integrated rechargeable battery, can be heated to the desired temperature at the touch of a button or via an app. Furthermore, new app features allow for an exact target temperature setting or additional heating zone control, whereby the pocket and back area can be heated alternately. The app upgrade by Deutsche Telekom now also makes all features available on the Apple Watch. This means that HCC 2.0 can be operated easily and conveniently via your wristwatch. www.alphatauri.com

The first Save the Duck store in New York is located at 496 Broadway, between Spring Street and Broome Street.

Save the Duck Global Thinker

Save the Duck is committed to expansion. The brand’s strategy is to strengthen its presence in the retail sector. In fact, the label opened three new stores in autumn last year. The first Save the Duck branch in New York offers 140 square metres of retail area for men’s, women’s, and children’s collections. The brand also launched its fourth store in Bologna’s city centre, followed by the first in Stockholm – the latter in partnership with Westfield Mall of Scandinavia. “The key term is and always will be: omnichannel. This allows us to appeal to those who are not yet particularly sensitised to the issue of sustainability, but also to gain the loyalty of customers who already embrace this lifestyle,” explains Nicolas Bargi, CEO and founder of Save the Duck. www.savetheduck.it

The consistent trading-up to a luxury sports brand has delivered success.

Sportalm Unmistakeable

Ulli Ehrlich, managing director of the Kitzbühel-based family business, embodies integrity and reliability. The high-quality comfort fashion collection is in growth mode, and the ski segment is gaining strength in exports. In other top news, Stuff Maker is the new licensee for accessories.

Sportalm and Stuff Maker are launching a partnership –accessories to complete the range?

Yes, we are convinced to have found the ideal partner for our licence bags in Stuff Maker. We spent ages searching and took our time before deciding, because we had no interest in handing out a licence at all costs. We wanted a real partner who understands our design language.

Despite all the crises, Sportalm’s fashion recorded double-digit growth rates last year. Can you reveal your secret?

The answer is actually quite mundane: uniqueness and quality. Nobody really needs anything new. As a consequence, we need to evoke desire, seduce, and emotionalise. Another essential factor is to provide excellent quality that allows a product to last. If you treat yourself to something, you hope to cherish and enjoy it for a long time.

Which key looks does the order round entail?

Sophisticated sports is our key term. We already carry sport in our name, and the sophisticated element is represented by more ready-to-wear pieces and higher-end qualities.

It will be exciting to see how ski fashion develops. Skiing is an expensive hobby.

Yes, absolutely. The clientele is divided into two camps in this respect. On the one hand, there are affluent customers who buy new clothes for their skiing holidays every year. On the other hand, there are skiing enthusiasts who save money by looking for pieces that can be worn both on the slopes and in everyday life.

Let us talk about Trachten. The segment is Sportalm’s smallest revenue contributor, but still remains a project close to your heart.

The Trachten segment is deeply embedded in our DNA. It is such a popular element of the brand, and therefore utterly

indispensable. By realigning the collection and systematically screening our retail partners, we have sent out a clear message. We enlisted Larissa Marolt as a testimonial to underpin the repositioning. She is not only a wonderful ambassador, but also has familial ties with our Trachten range. Her sister Lisa-Marie is our designer.

Has the realignment paid off?

The feedback was outstanding, and we are introducing new options by offering an order date in December to guarantee on-time delivery for Oktoberfest. Our in-house manufacturing capabilities mean we are flexible enough to split our Trachten production, thus allowing us to accommodate customer requests for us to deliver the winter collection earlier.

Sportalm’s Trachten collection offers a December order and early winter delivery date for the first time.

G-lab High Performance

Plenty of product innovation, and considerable sourcing for even more sustainable manufacturing processes. For G-lab’s outerwear, Björn Gericke and his team have set themselves the task of combining sustainability with a timeless high-quality product. “Design comes first, then we source the most sustainable fashion fabrics available, such as natural and recycled materials,” says Björn Gericke. “The second step is to refine so we can create a high-performance product with functionality commonly found in sports.” This philosophy permeates every last detail, right down to the recycled and animal-free lining fabric, recycled woven ribbons, and stone walnut buttons. Such conviction justifies retail prices ranging from 599 to 1,299 Euros. www.g-lab.com

G-lab’s womenswear in particular presents new silhouettes made of materials that surprise with their soft feel.

Bob New Outerwear

In the new Bob collection for autumn/winter 2023, the subject of jackets receives renewed attention alongside successful segments such as coats and sports jackets. Wool jackets, field jackets, and parkas were already widely featured in the past. The eco down range, however, is absolutely new. The new outerwear line is marked by models in the typical Bob style with a mix of materials and surprisingly colourful details. Double jackets in a layered style, such as cotton jackets with down inlays, are casually combined with each other in contrasting colours typical of Bob. The result is a completely new look that perfectly aligns with Bob’s DNA. The look of the complete Italian collection, which reinvents itself from season to season with a great deal of creativity and passion, is therefore even more versatile. www.bobcompany.it

Robert Friedman Fresher, Younger

The brand’s expertise lies in women’s blouses and shirtdresses, which breathe life into sartorial artistry. Founded in Florence in 1977, Robert Friedman unites American taste with Italian chic, delivering wearable fashion with flattering silhouettes. Primary materials include silk, high-range cotton, and technical qualities, ranging from plain colours to exclusive graphic and floral designs. The wearability of the high-end collection not only inspires top retailers in the German market, such as Unger and Lodenfrey, but still has potential for further expansion in the German-speaking area. Challenge accepted, say Malte Kötteritz and Michael Brockmann, who have assumed responsibility for sales in Germany and aim to position the brand in an even fresher and younger context. www.robertfriedman.com

Reinvigorated by a new sales representative: Robert Friedman is a new arrival at Heritage Showroom.

Bob loves colour: casual jackets with eco down inlays.

The Viwi Go Forest Go

Go forest go is the name of the reforestation and forest conversion campaign launched by sustainable e-tailer The Viwi in December 2021. With their online shop, founding couple Vivienne-Marie Härter and Max Sperber have made it their mission to actively shape the restoration of site-appropriate and climate-responsive deciduous and mixed forests. Since the end of last year, they have acquired five woodland plots near Düsseldorf, which are to be transformed into the primeval forest of tomorrow in collaboration with experts and local forestry companies. Planting new trees, retaining dying trees, and a ban on hunting are meant to protect biodiversity and stabilise the natural ecosystem. The Viwi’s forest is supposed to grow by itself, thus contributing to climate protection. Customers ensure that the forest grows ever-larger with every order they place. www.theviwi.de

Christian Wijnants Berlin Air

Charity jewellery and a donation per online order at The Viwi help grow the jungle of tomorrow near Düsseldorf.

Antwerp designer Christian Wijnants recently opened his second shop on Berlin’s Potsdamer Strasse. The concept encompassing a total area of 100 square metres was developed by Berlin architecture firm AAS Gonzalez Haase. The duo combines existing structures with new elements and materials. Silver wall panelling interacts with light and reflections, while hand-curved hanging rods accentuate the collections. For the changing rooms, silver curtains were paired with brass elements and green tones. Both areas are connected by a staircase that maintains the same ceiling height but varies in floor height. This is counterbalanced by an overarching lighting system, which both connects and opens up space.

Tenue Circular Denim

Menno van Meurs, owner of denim store Tenue de Nîmes, has, as a logical step in the development of his denim brand Tenue, opened his first flagship store at Utrechtsestraat 103 in Amsterdam. The label, founded in 2018, manufactures jeans for men and women in Italy. The entire collection, as well as exclusive collaborations with other brands and designers such as outerwear label Holubar, are available for purchase. “We are currently partnering with the top 20 retailers in the Netherlands, and since this autumn we have also been expanding beyond the borders of Holland. We have established first partnerships with stores in Germany, Belgium, and France,” van Meurs explains. The flagship store offers a free tailoring service and customers who return a pair of jeans to be recycled receive a 25 percent discount on the purchase of a new pair. The aim is to raise consumer awareness of circular production. www.tenurejeans.com

Tenue focuses on quality and circularity.

Christian Wijnants recently open a store on Berlin’s Potsdamer Strasse.

Vibe Shift Incoming

“We are at a tipping point towards a whole new attitude towards life, a completely different vibe,” says Carl Tillessen, Managing Director of DMI. “The 20s are taking shape and it is becoming clear that the so-called Lifestyle of Health and Sustainability, which has dominated the last two decades, has run its course. LOHAS has been putting us off until tomorrow for too long. It promises that if we chastise ourselves today, we will enjoy a healthy body and environment tomorrow. That is and remains true. Yet the fear that we might miss out on enjoying today for the sake of thinking about tomorrow has now become overwhelming.” Which megatrend will succeed LOHAS and what it means for fashion is revealed by Fashion Day Online.

www.deutschesmodeinstitut.de

DawnxDare Core Element

Cosy knitwear handcrafted in small manufactories in southern Tuscany. Colourful jumpers and cardigans are the core element of DawnxDare, a new addition to sales agency Knallgrau. The Danish label, founded in Copenhagen in 2016, has primarily enjoyed success in the Scandinavian region. Now the feminine, expressive womenswear is being launched in Germany and Austria. It will be showcased in the showrooms of Knallgrau in Munich and Düsseldorf. The knitwear range is complemented by viscose dresses, cotton blouses, and trousers – some in unusual cuts featuring glitter details. Retail prices for knitwear range from 229 to 429 Euros. Dresses cost between 229 and 429 Euros, trousers between 109 and 139 Euros. www.dawnxdare.com

Cuddly Knitwear

This knitwear collection contains Umbrian craftsmanship, passion, and creativity. Kash is characterised by innovative knitting techniques, bright colours, and feminine silhouettes. A flattering bouclé silk cashmere is one of the highlights of the new collection. The company, with its own production capabilities, has been synonymous with Made in Italy for over 50 years, sharing the associated values and a sense of connection to its homeland.

Düsseldorf agency Meier-Rybinski is now launching Kash in Germany and Austria as the brand’s sales representative. Purchase prices for the cashmere collection range from 130 to 330 Euros. With a markup of 2.8, accessories cost between 50 and 100 Euros. A service advantage: Thanks to its own production facilities, Kash can respond swiftly to repeat orders. www.kash.it

DawnxDare, a feminine womenswear collection from Copenhagen, is a new addition to Knallgrau’s portfolio.

Kash Cashmere

DMI’s digital channels inform about the zeitgeist and upcoming fashion trends.

Photo: Undercover S/S 23 © Martin Veit

DMI

In-house production capacities allow Kash to respond swiftly to repeat orders.

Besuchen Sie uns in unserem Showroom in der KAISERSWERTHER STRASSE während der Euro Shop in Düsseldorf, 26.02 bis 02.03.2023 Verabredung unter +49 (0)211-557 1177 BONAVERI EXKLUSIVVERTRETUNG FÜR DEUTSCHLAND & ÖSTERREICH www.brigitte-oelmann.de · susanne.oelmann@bonaveri.de

The premium hats by Mützenmafia have become instant bestsellers.

Blundstone Tasmania x Salzburg

150 years ago, a small footwear manufacturer developed high-quality boots for a remote colony in Tasmania. Today, Blundstone is globally acclaimed and still firmly in family hands. And the family is now growing. The room with a view sales agency, based in Salzburg, assumed responsibility for sales in Austria in October 2022. The aim is to accelerate expansion in the highend retail segment. “I am delighted that Blundstone complements our hand-picked brand portfolio. Blundstone represents values that we believe in too. The brand is a true original that combines tradition and innovation. Robust craftsmanship and durability meet modernity and comfort,” says Christian Obojes, founder and owner of room with a view. Incidentally, he has been wearing Blundstone for more than 30 years. www.blundstone.com

Mützenmafia

Styrian Boho

One basic model that offers so many possibilities. Samsara is the latest launch by Mützenmafia. The brand relies on high-quality materials, such as wool felt, for its premium hat line. The cashmere-merino blend is breathable and soft to the head, yet utterly robust. Manufacturing takes place at a traditional Italian company, while the style is refined in Graz. Mützenmafia founder and owner Kristina Blaschitz lends a hand herself. The boho design of the collection is inspired by her travels and represents a combination of curiosity, exploration, and a sense of adventure. The RRP is 129.95 Euros. www.muetzenmafia.com

High-End Yarns

Botto Giuseppe rises to the challenge of developing a yarn collection that reduces environmental impact and promotes circular economy. “Ever since the company was founded in 1876, we have been passionate about working with wool, and over the years we have added silk and cashmere. These are all exclusively natural, renewable, and biodegradable fibres. Our goal is to produce yarns from 100 percent sustainable raw materials by 2025,” says Silvio Botto Poala, CEO of Botto Giuseppe. For autumn/winter 2023/24, the company is banking on a collection made of natural, so-called Naturalis fibres. To this end, those responsible travelled to regions that offer the best wool quality and where fair conditions prevail. The result is Slowool yarns made of very fine merino wool or high-quality cashmere from Mongolia, which are also used to make Pin1786 scarves.

Wool fabrics are blended with silk and cashmere for particularly sophisticated finishes.

room with a view has acted as Blundstone’s sales representative since October 2022.

Botto Giuseppe

The jogging pant You2 is already a Funky Staff icon. Super soft, it adapts to all body types.

Funky Staff Bavarian Touch

Frankfurt’s metropolitan flair in Bavaria: Funky Staff is a label known for cutting-edge fashion. Trendy colours, hip silhouettes, and sporty elegance are combined with a knack for optimal timing. Based on these premises, Uwe and Kerstin Bernecker have created a modern lifestyle brand for self-confident women. The fashion is manufactured sustainably in Italy, and the brand has now hired Nicole Duldinger’s Munich fashion agency as their sales representative. Dieter Steinmann and Nicole Duldinger share a wealth of experience in the fashion industry, having curated brands such as Blond No.8, Como Nr.1, and, most recently, Grace.

So much more than a showroom: In Milan, Avant Toi has created a place that makes everything the brand stands for tangible.

Avant

Stronger Athletic Fits

Comfortable, breathable materials meet striking design: Swedish brand Stronger blurs the boundaries between activewear and everyday clothing. Founded in Stockholm in 2013, CEO Annica Rantala’s label specialises in athletic fits. They support different body types while remaining versatile enough to be worn in everyday life. Loungewear was added to the range in 2020, followed by a swimwear collection later that year. The hand-drawn prints, inspired by nature and natural elements, are designed by in-house artists. In production, Stronger uses recycled fibres and is committed to minimising water consumption. The first retail partner in Germany is KaDeWe.

Toi

“Habitat for Fashion and Art”

You presented the newly renovated Avant Toi showroom and flagship store during the last Fuori Salone (Milan). How important is renewal for brands like Avant Toi?

Giulia Marini, Avant Toi: Our new showroom and store on Via Carlo Botta is intended to serve as a habitat where all the facets of our brand can unfold harmoniously, and the customer is immediately immersed in the world of Avant Toi. After expanding our product range from exclusively cashmere jumpers to a total look, as well as sneakers and homewear, it became clear that the showroom should no longer merely be the home of our collections, but it should represent our entire world. We view this space as a natural evolution – first we expanded in product, now the space is following suit.

This showroom is not a traditional space, but rather an explosion of colours and patterns, just like the collections. What inspired Avant Toi?

You can definitely sense the influence of the 1970s, which were also the inspiration for our spring/summer 2023 collection and the new home collection. It heavily features flowers, velour, and vibrant colours. You can clearly recognise the signature style of my uncle Mirko Ghignone. This aspect was incorporated into the planning process quite naturally. We have a very distinct DNA, a common thread, and we want to display it here too.

Is the wallpaper by Avant Toi as well?

Yes, we had the wallpaper stylised with our floral designs and also drew the same motif directly onto the cement walls using a 3D technology. We also decorated our exquisite fabrics such as cashmere, silk, and velvet with floral prints or hand-painted colour effects and used them to decorate walls, windows, and revolving doors.

Stronger’s designs reflect the strength of their wearers.

JcSophie

Strellson Store Upgrade

The Swiss menswear brand is celebrating its re-opening in Düsseldorf. In a prime location on the Kö, Strellson presents its entire range on 340 square metres of retail space. “The objective in designing the new store concept was to create an authentic blend of modern and vintage elements, and to emphasise the perfect customer experience. We are also excited to see our newly unveiled logo appear in one of our stores for the first time,” says Managing Brand Director Marino Edelmann. The ground floor still houses the casual portion of the collection, while formalwear is showcased on the upper floor. Interior design highlights including designer vintage leather furniture, terrazzo elements, and an oversized video wall create a unique flair.

Italian actress Greta Scarano appreciates Cruna’s young, feminine, and yet self-assured women’s collection.

Cruna Per La Donna

A collection conceived from the bottom up is Cruna’s recipe for success. The brand from Vicenza is famed for its men’s trousers. In 2022, the label launched its first women’s line relying on proven values. Everything starts with trousers and subsequently evolves into a full collection. New feminine fits emphasise a woman’s elegance. Topical and contemporary notes define the style alongside sophisticated and refined elements, ranging from tone-on-tone visuals to monochrome designs. Powder and light blue pastel shades – as well as high-quality materials such as fine jersey, satin, Sangallo, cotton, silk, and wool – are very much in vogue. Cruna plans to conquer the DACH region with its women’s collection in 2023.

Al Ain

Genderless Streetstyle

The Apache Factory design studio near Venice is one of Italy’s best-kept secrets. Three seasons ago, following Backsideclub and Ko Samui, Al Ain was launched: a genderless collection that combines futuristic cuts and designs with traditional Moroccan artisanal techniques. Al Ain offers hoodies and leather jackets, as well as cushions made of fabrics featuring prints and embroidery that are reminiscent of typical Moroccan style. The palette of the desert and bazaars is reflected in the use of warm orange and brown tones interspersed with blues and reds. For the cushion capsule, Al Ain has enlisted the support of five tailors from north-eastern Italy, as well as Venetian artist houseofG. The sales representative in Germany is Agentur Ventrella. www. apachefactory.com

Illuminated, rollable cages facilitate an optimal presentation of the collection.

Forged by Apache Factory: Al Ain combines Italian style and Moroccan influences.

Tailoring, Lounge- and Underwear Germany: Stefan Wittmann GmbH Volmerswerther Str. 32, 40221 Düsseldorf buero@agentur-wittmann.de Tel. +49 (0) 211 58589690

Fire + Ice Flower Power

This is the second collaboration between Fire + Ice and the US label LoveShackFancy. The technical performance of Fire + Ice, combined with the opulent 1980s vibes of LoveShackFancy’s floral designs, results in a successful pairing titled Le Grand Chalet. Both brands bring their unique DNA to the table. “The positive feedback for our first Fire + Ice collab was incredible! We could not wait to create another capsule. We are honoured to work with this amazing performance wear brand to create a whimsical, romantic collection for all our customers. Each piece is an ultimate winter wardrobe staple,” says LoveShackFancy founder Rebecca Hessel Cohen. Both brands offer the collection in their US flagship stores and online. www.fireandice.com

Flowers everywhere: Fire + Ice celebrates its second collaboration with US brand LoveShackFancy.

The motto of January’s edition of Munich Fabric Start: Dare & Care.

Munich Fabric Start

Innovation Hub

International, relevant, curated: Munich Fabric Start is welcoming almost 800 exhibitors at the end of January. They showcase the latest material and colour trends across around 42,500 square metres. The eight areas include ReSource, Sustainable Innovations, fabric print showcase Design Studios, innovation hub Keyhouse, and denim powerhouse Bluezone. A new event space – alongside exhibitors such as Caddon, Stoll, Triple Tree, and Verce – is occupied by fashion tech market leader Assyst, where the company intends to outline the possibilities of digitisation for the fashion industry. Education is key. Highlights of the event include a self-empowerment lecture by trend expert David Shah, panel talks on topics such as circularity and future fabrics, and a trend presentation by DMI.

Munich Fabric Start Spring/Summer: 24th to 26th of January 2023 Bluezone & Keyhouse: 24th and 25th of January 2023 www.munichfabricstart.com

Pride

to Be So Fluffy

Jackets and coats with that special fashionable flair: Pride to Be interprets classic coat models with great finesse. Sometimes it is the wide silhouette, sometimes the particularly cosy material, sometimes the overlapping shoulder or casual fit. The double-face range has been greatly expanded. The range featuring different side colours has now been broadened to include a skirt and dress. New additions are 100 percent lamb wool and soft teddy qualities. The two newcomers complete the faux fur series, spearheaded by the successful mink models. MODEist presents Pride to Be in its showrooms in Munich and Düsseldorf. The selective sales policy favours individual retail formats that impress with advice and do not participate in early price reductions. www.modeist. com

Snuggle up in soft teddy, lamb wool, and faux mink – Pride to Be makes it happen

SALT Order Days Salzburg Seriously Impressive

Hubert Stolzlechner, owner of Stolz Modeagentur, is thrilled about the lively interest in SALT, which he conceived as an industry get-together during the pandemic in partnership with Petra Kogler of Gusswerk. The event, considered an inspiring community gathering, is opening its doors for the third time on the 24th of January 2023. The modern concept of an order event for selected manufactory brands, as well as sporty and traditional fashion in juxtaposition with Trachten, has been widely embraced due to its uncomplicated approach. Exhibitors such as Kleidermanufaktur Habsburg, Meindl, Daddy’s Daughters, Heimatglück, Gottseidank and Lodenfrey have already confirmed their return. “The loyalty of the brands is really gratifying; none of them have dropped out. Several new companies have signed up, including high-end Spanish label T.ba life,” Stolzlechner reports. His vision is to establish Salzburg as an international fashion hub. “Salzburg harbours enormous potential, which needs to be utilised and further developed,” he insists.

SALT Order Days Salzburg, Gusswerk, SALT 01: 24th to 25th of January 2023, SALT 02: 24th to 26th of February 2023, www.salt-salzburg.at, @saltsalzburg

All exhibitors from the previous year, as well as interesting newcomers, plan to attend the SALT Order Days in Salzburg.

So Summer! Antonia’s.

Soldout Butter-Soft Corduroy

Soldout is known for butter-soft modal pieces. The brand now applies this expertise to corduroy. A touch of stretch provides typical comfort in fine and wide corduroy qualities. Casual, loose styles are superbly suited for everyday wear: wash, hang up, wear again. “Soldout is synonymous with such real-life appeal, gorgeous yet uncomplicated,” says Marion Hoferer, who showcases the brand with her son Timothy in MODEist showrooms in Munich and Düsseldorf. “My personal highlight is the combination of wide-leg trousers and a blazer, both in corduroy.” www.modeist.com

Why does textile designer Isabel Rio now design espadrilles? After working for Alexander Wang, Calvin Klein Collection, and Carolina Herrera, she wanted to prove herself with her own women’s line. Her shoes, a homage to her homeland Spain, caused a stir. Consequently, she decided to focus on that particular segment. The name of the espadrilles and wedges collection is Antonia’s, in memory of Rio’s father Antonio and her grandmother Antonia. Special features include rubberised soles and a colourful thread that features in all designs. Broad, multi-coloured satin ribbons make the shoes distinctive and unique. The range of models also includes loafers made of calfskin, as well as mules. At a mark-up of 2.8, purchase prices range from 65 to 90 Euros. Antonia’s enjoys a strong international standing. In Germany, the brand’s retail partners include Breuninger. The sales representative in Germany is Nadine Könen of Les Beaux & Brands in Germany. www.antonia-s.com

She has worked for designers like Alexander Wang and Carolina Herrera: Isabel Rio’s espadrilles pay tribute to her native Spain.

Hartford Unlimited Adventure

The total look collection by Hartford of Paris was originally inspired by the idea of combining American sportswear with typical French chic. The women’s segment has become increasingly important in recent seasons and has been expanded substantially. For autumn/winter 2023, the designers play with intense, warm, and enveloping colours such as cocoa brown, Prussian blue, and an extravagant magenta pink for women, as well as forest green, sky blue, beige, and khaki for men. The casual lifestyle collection comprises timelessly modern t-shirts, shirts, knitwear, trousers, and jackets. This season’s flared cuts are reminiscent of 1970s or 1990s road trips through endless autumnal landscapes in North America. Vintage-inspired check or ethnic patterns and prints complement the collection. Combined with cosy materials such as fleece, virgin wool, sherpa, or even velvet, they emphasise the casual spirit. The sales representative in Germany and Austria is Die Hinterhofagentur from Munich. www.hartford.fr

Hartford advances its total look approach by strengthening its women’s collection.

Nio Cocktails Ready-to-Drink

Shake, tear open, and serve on ice. Nio stands for Need Ice Only and offers ready-to-drink cocktails made in Italy from premium spirits and ingredients. “Our ambition is to deliver an unforgettable drinking experience, wherever and whatever the occasion, creating an unprecedented cocktail culture at home and in other social settings,” explains Alessandro Carrara, General Manager of Nio in Germany. The minimum order amounts to 80 units in total and at least 10 units per pre-mixed cocktail type. Prices are staggered according to purchase volume. Repeat orders are processed within 3 days. Furthermore, Nio offers the possibility to design your own packaging and even individual sleeves – they take roughly six weeks to produce. Beppo Hoferer’s Idea Generation is responsible for sales in northern Germany, while the southern region is served by Olly Dees. Top fashion partners include The Corner, Lodenfrey, Abseits, Breuninger, Strolz, LNZR, and Gränicher. www.niococktails.de

Stetson Europe x The Feebles

Special Impulses

In collaboration with French design artists Gaëtan Guerlais and Anaël Moreau of The Feebles, Stetson Europe is implementing a customisation collaboration for the autumn/winter 2023 season. The objective is to create selected styles that can be further customised by wearers. For this purpose, a customisation kit comprising stencils, pins, tags, and patches accompanies each headwear item to create an individual look. The Feebles, a studio from Nantes, has specialised in graphic design, illustration, and mural painting since 2013.

In addition, a decades-old Stetson tradition returns for this season: the retailer bunch. Conceived as made-to-order, retailers can - for a limited time - compile their very own Stetson line choosing from six fabrics, three shapes, and two lining variants. An exclusive inspection tag for each retailer is attached to each hat in the bunch. www.stetson-europe.com

Frauenschuh

Tradition and Future

The first Frauenschuh store in Munich opened last autumn in Residenzstrasse, showcasing the brand’s complete womenswear range: cooked wool, loden, leather, lambskin, knitwear, and skiwear.

“We are delighted to have found a location in Munich’s old town,” says owner and CEO Kaspar Frauenschuh. “We feel at home here, partly because Munich’s old town reflects our passion: combining the future and tradition.” The launch in Munich is an important next milestone in Frauenschuh’s international rollout plans. The brand is represented by international partners in the most prestigious ski destinations from Aspen to St. Moritz, among others, and runs another Frauenschuh store on Sylt through a franchise partner. www. frauenschuh.com

Luxurious sportiness at the new Frauenschuh in Munich.

Nio offers in-home cocktail experiences.

Create your own personal Stetson style with the brand’s customisation platform.

Rosa & Me Colourful Winter

In its autumn/winter collection 2023/24, the German knitwear label of designer Dagmar von Schmaus impressively proves how diverse and colourful the finest cashmere yarn can be. The colour palette remains colourful in winter, varying from bright pinks, yellows, greens, and blues, as well as contrasting multicolour variants, to the classic soft natural shades of cream, sand, and beige, complemented by the timeless duo of black and white. Rosa & Me is also faithful to its inlays. Be it laughing faces, hearts, or lettered statements, these models bring a smile to the face and are perfect for adding a cheerful touch to product ranges. It is particularly important to Dagmar von Schmaus that Rosa & Me is aimed at many different types of women and can be ordered to suit the individual customer. From casual oversized styles to tight-fitting turtlenecks, every silhouette is available, including the classic twinset and long cardigans. Despite massive price increases for raw materials, Rosa & Me is able to maintain its claim of offering a comprehensible price/performance ratio in the coming season. By investing in communication, Rosa & Me promotes its journey from label to brand. Actresses such as Wolke Hegenbrath wear the collection and love it dearly.

Daniele Fiesoli

Sustainability as Condition

In times when upcycling was still a diffuse concept in Italy, Daniele Fiesoli, with his eponymous knitwear label, placed great faith in the idea and invested heavily in sustainable Made in Italy production capacities. His intuition proved correct, and his efforts have more than paid off over the past twenty years. The brand has grown and now appeals to both men and women.

Die Damenkollektion Collection N. 01 soll jetzt im deutschsprachigen Raum ausgebaut werden.

Daniele Fiesoli has been designing and manufacturing high-quality cashmere collections for more than twenty years. How do you maintain relevance over so many years?

Daniele Fiesoli, founder of Daniele Fiesoli: Daniele Fiesoli is a brand that excels in high-quality, Made in Italy cashmere products and has adopted sustainability as a condition. By sustainability, however, I do not just mean the reclaimed cashmere yarn of our #upcycledcashmere series, but an attitude of life. Obviously, being able to offer a complete line like #upcycledcashmere, which is 100 percent sustainable from yarn to packaging, is wonderful and makes us proud. Yet it is also about the paper we use for the printer, or the people we employ, which boosts the local economy. We have been working on all these aspects since 2000 and it is gratifying to see that all these efforts and investments are paying off today.

Recycled cashmere is a speciality of Daniele Fiesoli. How do you create a sustainable yet fashionable collection? We experimented extensively and monitored the markets. Sustainability is

important, but it is not always the top priority for buyers. Unfortunately, that is the hard truth. The first thing people look for is excellent design, followed by the right price. If the product is also sustainable, then it is perfect. So, we developed a blend. We use 50 percent virgin fibre, 20 percent recycled material from production waste, and 30 percent recycled fibre. This interplay creates a durable, long-lasting fibre.

Daniele Fiesoli has long been a menswear-only brand, but it has recently expanded to include womenswear… Yes, we actually presented the first women’s collection in Italy in 2018 and introduced it to international markets early 2020. Then the pandemic happened, and the rest is history. With the autumn/winter collection 2022/23, Daniele Fiesoli’s womenswear line is finally a reality and in the stores. Good things come to those who wait! It is called “Collection N. 01 and our vision of modern femininity is that a woman can even sparkle with femininity in an oversized jumper.

Daniele Fiesoli has specialised in knitwear for 20 years.

The womenswear collection Collection N. 01 is now set to expand into the German-speaking market.

The Rosa & Me twinset is a bestseller and signature style of the brand.

Stripes and neon colours are Rosa & Me’s antidote to winter blues.

Peuterey Successful

Christian Teufl of CCT is enjoying unprecedented success with Peuterey. He is in charge of sales in Austria and some Eastern European countries. Ben Botas, who covers Germany via Ben And, is also very pleased with the Italian brand’s performance. “We are excellently positioned and enter the season full of optimism, knowing that there is a great deal of momentum in the jacket segment right now and that retailers are looking for brands that allow them to tap into the sales potential that has become available,” says Christian Teufl. What does a jacket need? “A strong brand identity, and creativity and yet it is recognisable at first glance.” www.peuterey.com

International and increasingly creative: Peuterey.

Bonaveri Ethics and Aesthetics

Founded in 1950 in Renazzo di Cento, Ferrara, Bonaveri is synonymous with exquisite mannequins. Bonaveri mannequins can be found wherever high-end fashion comes alive – in stores, in museums, or on stage. Currently, the company is contributing all busts and mannequins for the LOOK exhibition at Heidi Horten Collection in Vienna. Bonaveri manufactures about 20,000 mannequins per year, divided into three lines: Bonaveri Artistic Mannequins, Schläppi, and B by Bonaveri. All lines share a love of aesthetic development, craftsmanship, and innovation.

Visiting the company headquarters in Renazzo di Cento is a rewarding experience, as one would never guess how much technology, automation, and research is involved.

Visitors are always welcome to explore the state-of-the-art laboratories where digital body scans are conducted, as well as the sculpture studio, which reflects the spirit of a Renaissance workshop with sculptors modelling clay and plaster to create figures. Collaborations with major fashion brands have allowed the company to excel in the design of customised mannequins. Such clients appreciate Bonaveri’s

Susanne Oelmann took charge of the family business Brigitte Oelmann in 2007. The company, which dates back to 1997, represents Bonaveri with conviction.

ability to combine portability with aesthetics.

In 2016, a biodegradable mannequin made its debut at the Green Carpet Challenge in London.

BPlast, a new bio-based polymer composed of 72% sugar cane derivatives and treated with BPaint dyes, was specially developed. The BPaint colour palette consists exclusively of pigments and natural solvents. Susanne Oelmann, Managing Partner of the Bonaveri representation in Germany, is delighted to introduce the topic of sustainability to mannequins: “There is something extremely motivating about being part of such a positive initiative as that of Bonaveri – and not just for me, I think.”

Bonaveri mannequins wearing Valentino couture.

A new addition to Modeist: Nine to 9, a minimalist-multifunctional easy-to-wear collection in technical jersey, strikes the perfect balance between fashion and timelessness.

Nine to 9 So Easy

One fabric quality and variably combinable styles are blended with clarity and practicality. In the past, Nine to 9 might have been described as a suitcase collection, as the magic of the newcomer lies in the use of no-fuss jersey fabric. Crease-resistant, breathable, easy-to-wash, and easy-to-dry are but a few product promises that Nine to 9 fulfils one hundred percent. Blouses, dresses, trousers in various cuts, and matching blazers are almost minimalist due to reduced seams and open edges, which makes these pieces so easy to style in a variety of ways. Whether as a casual-functional business look, in leisure time, or for an evening at the theatre, the styles can be adjusted perfectly to any occasion in a few simple steps. Sizes range from 34 to 46, and the collection caters to almost all age groups. In terms of sales strategy, the focus is on independent retailers, a speciality of Modeist agency, which generally endeavours to establish presence at local heroes and retailers with strong advisory capacities. In addition to two pre-order collections, classics are available for individual re-ordering. Purchase prices range from 50 to 140 Euros. www.modeist.com

PNTS is a new, responsible women’s trouser brands by Leineweber.

Mainetti is committed to a full-circle initiative for a sustainable future.

Mainetti Optimised Future

Mainetti is renowned for retail solutions. In order to manage and mitigate the effects of climate change, the company defines ambitious goals and measures in partnership with the Full Circle Initiative. The aim is to realise these by 2025. Among them are the decarbonisation of operations, as well as the continuation of the Global Mainetti Forest reforestation programme. It also seeks to promote circular economy by sharing best practices on material and product reuse throughout the supply chain within a collaborative ecosystem. Mainetti focuses on products that derive from renewable sources such as paper, cardboard, or compostable materials. The company is currently expanding its reusable clothes hanger programme. www.mainetti.com

PNTS Made by Humans

Under the motto of the first collection Design Fusion, elastic slim fit and skinny styles meet modern relaxed shapes in authentic washes. Cut outs, destroys, patches, and coatings adorn the designs. The range of silhouettes has been expanded by three new fits: bootcut, flared, and a pleated version. The label expanded significantly beyond wool denim and wool jersey. The modern jogging-chino shapes can be combined casually or dressed up by combining them with a blouse and blazer. Isabel Beckmann, Director of PNTS, is very satisfied with the sell-in of the first collection. “Our ‘comfy with style’ USP, an excellent price-performance ratio, and the brand story have made a lasting impression. 70 retailers from the modern premium segment in the DACH region have placed their trust in us.” www.wearepnts.com

Düsseldorf – b.norf@adventure-gmbh.de München – info@ar-modeagent.de

Stylism “We Are Not Afraid of Being Different”

Allan, what does a bag in the commercial price segment need to offer to be exceptionally inspiring?

Allan Feder, founder of Stylism: The idea for Stylism was based on the feeling that the market lacks a leather brand that dares to be fashionable. It needs to be daring to stand out. A black bag should not just be a black bag, that would be too boring. We love colour and our collections celebrate the joyous and chaotic soul that expresses itself in colour. Stylism is targeted at everyone who has a similar attitude to life and enjoys making a statement.

What are the reasons that Stylism succeeded so quickly and impressed retailers?

I believe it is because we are different and proud of it. This diversity is our strongest asset. We are brave enough to offer trendy accessories in excellent quality at reasonable prices.

What are your plans for the Germanspeaking market?

We strive to be an insider brand known for its colourful and daring styles and aim for long-term partnerships with our agents. Together, we can develop Stylism into a respectable player on the German-speaking market. It is extremely helpful to have Marion and Timothy Hoferer of MODEist as experienced sales partners at our side.

Caliban The Mother of Fashion Blouses

Caliban of Giemme Group is regarded as a pioneer of the fashionable blouse. Traditionally distinctive in colours that are either harmonious or deliberately contrasting, the Italian manufacturer excels in flexibility. The clean stylistic design language has developed into a discreet trademark. Caliban is always recognisable, even without visible branding. In close coordination with Gaby and Michele Ventrella, italianitá and performance are condensed into a common denominator - this is what makes blouses fun. www.giemmebrandscorporate.it

Always on point, always fashionable, yet always commercial: Caliban.

One bag, two shoulder straps – the Sveva model enjoys cult status in Italy.

Orciani

Timeless

Some Orciani bag models enjoy cult status in Italy – and the blend of stability and creative innovation is precisely what makes the brand so special. Orciani sets high standards with its rich colours and high-quality materials. Many women wear an Orciani bag as the perfect alternative to a designer bag. Models like Sveva, Ofelia, Frame, and Pong, as well as the Mini Bags, are permanent fixtures in every seasonal collection as part of the Iconiche series. It comprises bags whose clear lines and special features ensure timelessness, and which are regularly among the bestsellers. The Sveva model is particularly noteworthy. This bag is available in two sizes made of calfskin, suede with calfskin details, or even nubuck. Highlights include the interchangeable shoulder straps. Each model comes with two, one plain and one decorated with embroidery, stones, or studs. “We always aspire to explore the full aesthetic potential of this versatile material. We are not interested in looking back, we have always focused on what is still possible. This modernity, combined with 40 years of production experience, provides the foundation to keep moving in terms of style, while still ensuring that an Orciani bag is recognisable at first glance,” says Claudia Orciani, who, as chairwoman, is in charge of the company’s fortunes.

The Stylism collection celebrates imperfection and diversity with strong colours and unusual designs.

Igedo Exhibitions “We Strive to Create New Relationships”

This constitutes a real boost for Düsseldorf: Neonyt is now being staged together with Fashn Rooms at Areal Böhler. How can these two distinct formats be successfully reconciled? Ulrike Kähler has answers.

The Düsseldorf trade show season is starting with a bang. Fashn Rooms and Neonyt are joining forces. Why Düsseldorf?

Ulrike Kähler, Managing Director of Igedo Exhibitions: The city is deservedly an important order hub for our industry. We are proud to organise and host Neonyt under licence from Messe Frankfurt. By the way, Düsseldorf has been recognised as a Fairtrade Town since 2011, which very few people are aware of. In the case of Neonyt, we collaborate closely with Messe Frankfurt. We receive support when necessary and make use of the creative freedom afforded to us.

How can both sides benefit?

One thing is clear: it needs to be a win-win concept. Through the joint event, the sustainable community has a chance to communicate its added value more broadly to the market. Conversely, the Fashn Rooms audience is given an opportunity to receive input and

education on the topic of sustainability.

However, both events have their own USP and remain independent. In addition to our fashion curation, all Neonyt exhibitors are subjected to a thorough sustainability review, for which we enlisted Lavinia Muth as sustainability advocate and consultant. We are now starting to further develop Neonyt on a creative level, drawing from our expertise in organisation and fashion innovation.

With which innovations?

Prepeek, the Neonyt area for invited content creators and bloggers, is now also open to retailers on Saturday and Sunday afternoon. This gem inspires everyone! Here, selected pieces from the exhibitors are on display, including a bar and working space. Furthermore, content creators can book a free photo shoot with make-up and styling to share their content directly with the community.

Fashn Rooms continues to emphasise the contemporary and avant-garde, complemented by accessories for a multifaceted range. We are particularly proud of our Showroom Concept for premium brands and agencies, which is gaining momentum through synergies. Agencies representing sustainable brands also utilise Showroom Concept.

Where do the two formats intersect?

Fashn Rooms and Neonyt have separate entrances, which share a common entry ticket. They are connected by a crosswalk. The conference platform The Stage in Schmiede-

halle also builds bridges. This is the setting for Fashionsustain, Messe Frankfurt’s conference format. In addition, there will be panel talks, trend lectures, and workshops. We strive to create new relationships and find the best conditions to succeed here in Düsseldorf.

Fashn Rooms: 28th to 30th of January 2023

Neonyt: 28th to 30th of January 2023

Showroom Concept: 26th to 30th of January 2023

White:Space A Blank Canvas

The name of the Norwegian unisex jacket label reflects its no-frills design philosophy. In 2020, Simen Staalnacke, surely still known to some as the founder of Moods of Norway, had the idea to design a simple premium down jacket line that focuses on essentials: environmentally friendly materials such as recycled nylon, and recycled down, and fair production in Europe. Moreover, a tree is planted for every jacket sold. The line comprises five models per season, including jackets with high collars and detachable hoods, long coats, and oversized waistcoats in eight bright colours such as royal blue, jade green, coral red, or silver grey. At a mark-up of 3.0, retail prices range from 500 to 900 Euros. Sales in the DACH region are handled by Select Studio of Munich.

www.whitespaceshop.com

“The very best exchange occurs when meeting people face-to-face, especially in our industry.” Ulrike Kähler

Unisex down jackets by White:Space from Oslo make their debut in the German-speaking market.

Fil Noir Strong Sales Performance

In January, Fil Noir is presenting its collection at Pitti Uomo in Florence, instead of Berlin. “We reported a 30 percent increase in incoming orders for the summer season,” says Heiko Storz. “Now we, as a high-selling brand, are confident going into the upcoming order round.” Corduroy, flannels, and overshirts define the menswear looks, for example in winter tones such as copper, burgundy, and brown, as well as in muted botanical shades. Partly overprinted checks, houndstooth designs, and denim optics are joined by minimals, structures, and striped patterns. High-quality fine to wide-cord variations are complemented by interlock jerseys and poplin. A special highlight of the women’s collection is a Black & White story accentuated with lurex elements. Warm colours such as red-orange, burgundy, raspberry, and brown are contrasted by cool blues, mint, and petrol as colours of icy winter landscapes. As for the designs of shirts, blouses, dresses, and jackets: graphic, ornamental, watercolour, and floral prints predominate alongside a wide variety of checked patterns. Fabric highlights include embroidery anglaise, flowing Tencel, stretch jersey, and cotton sateen. www.filnoir.com

Yippie Hippie Statement Pieces

“Yippie Hippie is gaining visibility. People are no longer only aware of a single item of clothing, but of the brand as a whole,” says Maja Eger, who is in charge of Yippie Hippie in partnership with Christiane Braun Prettin. The USP involves colourful, casually cut styles featuring imaginative prints, patches, and embroidery that put people in a good mood and have been delighting female fans for eleven years. Punctual deliveries and prompt responses to customer wishes, even during the season, are no less crucial. The collection from Reutlingen has been marketed in Germany and Austria by Agentur Michaelis since its inception. The fact that brand and distributor jointly serve customers has been rewarded with steady growth. “We are incredibly grateful.” www.yippiehippie.de

Many new customers: Yippie Hippie boosts positive moods.

Fil Noir, manufactured in Europe, promises the finest in casual.

CG-Club of Gents Let’s Party!

“CG-Club of Gents is youth, progressiveness, and modernity, inextricably linked with style and the courage to embrace glamour,” says Division Head Ralf Klute. With CG-Club of Gents, and the Savile Row and Your Own Party sublines, the suit specialist offers the perfect look for every occasion. Formalwear is reinterpreted in a younger context: slim fits versus oversized jackets in line with highest sustainability standards, GOTS-certified and one hundred percent recyclable. Get the ModsFeeling is a motto both rebellious and elegant, embodying high-end English style. The Savile Row collection expresses individuality, distinction, and uniqueness. Your Own Party, a wedding concept, emphasises casual boho-vintage style in linen suits for a summer wedding or in glitter jackets with leather lapels for parties. Such versatility allows CG-Club of Gents to meet all retail needs – not to mention that the Hersbruck-based company is a delivery and reorder champion capable of reacting at short notice. www.cg.fashion

CG-Club of Gents is a label created by Hersbruck-based menswear manufacturer Création Gross.

Dušan Powerful

These are timeless classics, uncompromising in their modernity and unconditional commitment to quality.

For his own collection, Dušan Pauvonic works with only the finest materials, such as silk and cashmere, and transforms them into highly reduced, yet expressive pieces. The training of the Serbian-born designer, who once worked for Zoran, arguably New York’s first minimalist designer, is evident. Dušan is based in Milan and is exclusively crafted in Italy.

Monica Marando’s MMB Consulting is the label’s European agent since last season. www.dusan.info

Aliita

Favourite Pieces

“The Milanese jewellery concept by Cynthia Vilchez Castiglioni cites classical values yet, for all its playfulness, remains purist, timeless, and elegant,” says Monica Marando, who represents the label throughout Europe via her sales agency MMB Consulting. The term Aliita means important object in the language of the Guajiro people, whose ancestral homeland lies in Zulia-Venezuela, where the founder of Aliita grew up. What started as a small project is now a collection of treasured pieces, most of which are crafted in Italy of nine-carat gold adorned with gemstones and coral. The leather boxes for storing the unique pieces and the recycled paper packaging are no less adorable. www.aliita.com

American Vintage Pioneers

American Vintage has been consciously breaking codes in order to continually perfect its collections since its inception. The womenswear and menswear brand from southern France is shaped by the pursuit of the extraordinary, which is also reflected in its fashion DNA. The (white) t-shirts, knitwear, coats, and denim have long since gained cult status. This is owed to deliberate reduction, high quality, and the perfect fit, as well as trend-conscious thinking. “As the season progressed, we noticed that an increasing number of women were buying styles from the men’s range. This fuelled a thought that arose several years ago. Why not offer gender-neutral fashion, collections for women and men,” says Michael Azoulay, founder and CEO of American Vintage on yet another highlight of the successful brand.

Aliita of Milan impresses with timeless minimalism that does not lack humour.

American Vintage has earned itself a stand-alone position with consistency.

Love of understatement: Dušan.

Phil Petter

Confidence

Vorarlberg knitwear manufacturer Phil Petter has been an undisputed hidden champion for many years. Its products impress beyond the wholesale market. “We serve retailers who are real fans,” says Anja Grabherr-Petter. End customers are equally enamoured with the high-quality, minimalist, and beautiful knitwear, the value chain of which is entirely rooted in Europe. This year, Phil Petter is celebrating its 50 year anniversary, and is doing so via a capsule collection that is a reminder of the very first jumper - a ski jumper. The alpine motifs and retro vibes are well-received. www.philpetter.com

The Supreme Group Security & Continuity

“The Supreme Group has established itself as an important player in the fashion business over the past 15 years. In both successful and uncertain times, our key trade shows Supreme Women&Men in Düsseldorf and Munich are and will remain consistent and reliable partners for brands, exhibitors, and retailers alike,” says Managing Director Aline MüllerSchade. In her capacity as the new, unanimously elected chairwoman of the Fashion Net Düsseldorf association, she once again demonstrates her firm belief in the importance of Düsseldorf as a fashion hub. Müller-Schade adds: “The Supreme Group team will continue to adjust the parameters of sustainable concepts in the fashion landscape with an open mindset. With fresh ideas and plenty of intuition, we will ensure that Düsseldorf remains on the road to success.”

Supreme Women&Men Düsseldorf, 27th to 30th of January 2023; Supreme Women&Men Munich, 11th to 14th of February 2023 www.munichfashioncompany.com

Roy Robson 100 Years –More Than a Name

Roy Robson has reason to celebrate. The menswear specialist, based in Lüneburg and managed by Frederick Westermann in third generation, is marking its 100th anniversary. Roy Robson has been synonymous with premium menswear since 1922. From formal wear to smart casual, every piece is created with dedication to design, quality, and precision. Manufacturing takes place in the company’s own factory in Turkey, as well as at partner factories in Europe. On the upswing due to the current comeback of occasion wear, the brand is subject to constant modernisation. Three pillars define its sustainable attitude: social and ecological aspects, as well as fair fashion. To mark the 100th anniversary, the success story of the company is presented from the perspective of the employees who drive the brand forward with passion: Roy Robson is #morethananame. The sales agent in Austria is Kucharz at Gusswerk in Salzburg. www.royrobson.com

With its two locations in Düsseldorf and Munich, The Supreme Group provides continuity in the fashion order business.

Phil Petter traditionally marks the start of the season by participating in Pitti Uomo.

Roy Robson honours its employees and partners in celebration of its 100th birthday.

Two sisters and their shared love of special pieces: Pialea.

Pialea Sisterhood

Two sisters with very different styles – one brand that effortlessly combines both. Pialea pursues the idea that people no longer chase trends, but favourite pieces. The label is eclectic with that extra special touch, yet effortlessly wearable for years to come. The creative minds behind the brand are Pia and Lea Wendenburg, daughters of the Austrian retail dynasty Dantendorfer. They have the taste for something special in their blood. The first collection is a capsule featuring styles that women would want to wear for special moments and in everyday life: jackets, trousers, skirts, and blouses adorned with Austrian-inspired prints. Prices range from 395 to 1,200 Euros. In the debut season, the collection is available on the label’s own website and in Dantendorfer stores. The sales network will be expanded thereafter. www.pialea.de

Tom Ripley That’s the Spirit

Knitwear brand Tom Ripley has cemented its place at discerning premium retailers with its The Italian Way of Americano philosophy. The label’s speciality is to translate modern spinning techniques and technologies into functional qualities with practical features. All styles are manufactured by Italian family businesses in Emilia-Romagna, Tuscany, and Puglia. “We are committed to high quality, sophisticated style, nostalgic individuality, and Italian craftsmanship. In short: to garments that one can still genuinely appreciate,” says Tom Ripley founder Wolfgang Müller. Tom Ripley keeps its classic pieces classic for very good reasons. The essentials may be simple, but they are ingeniously functional featuring H2DRY K-Wool® or stereo system®. The compact collection is characterised by natural fibres – mainly merino – and blends of other high-quality materials such as cashmere. Fashionably unusual models offset such perfect simplicity: a tonal fantasy jacquard, chenille, striking ribs, velour as a tube collar, or a full-zip jacket featuring front embroidery. The label also offers modern interpretations of patent knits, tonal ribs, or vanisé effects, as well as open cable knit patterns. Lightweight jackets, such as a hooded jacket with a quilted nylon back and real down filling or a pared-down field jacket in sweat quality, complement the range. Real favourites include a knitted overshirt with a full-length zip, or in retro style featuring a button placket and patch pockets on the chest. A timeless sports jacket completes the collection. Tom Ripley demonstrates innovative spirit with pieces featuring seamless technology. “We are growing continuously, rely on genuine partnerships with retailers, and have improved our costing. Our prices are very attractive considering the tremendous value embedded in the products. The price range starts at 99 Euros for essentials and ends at 299 Euros for elaborately finished hybrid jackets,” says Müller. Tom Ripley exhibits at Premium Berlin. The collection can be ordered in agents’ showrooms, in the company’s own showroom in Munich, and online via a dedicated B2B portal starting mid-January. www.tom-ripley.com

Expanding expertise: Tom Ripley, a knitwear collection inspired by a retro spirit, now also features overshirts and lightweight jackets.

PURITY

The first GTA collection made with chemically safe fabrics.

d’Ame

Wayout

Silvia, you have achieved great results with Otto d’Ame’s outerwear line Wayout. Where do you go from here?

Silvia Mazzoli, designer at Otto d’Ame: In this collection, we increase the proportion of models that contain materials of sustainable or recycled origin to a full 70 percent. We have also started rethinking our styles beyond seasonality: jackets that can be worn under a coat or over heavy knitwear. In doing so, we take into account that the cold season nowadays includes many days when you really do not need a thick down parka.

Sustainability remains your overall focus…

Yes, and we have been highly committed to this journey for many years. Perhaps more discreetly than other brands, but we always strive to find materials and create styles that minimise the impact on the environment.

Is the fashion always on point? Definitely, because individuality in design and style is one of Otto d’Ame’s main attributes. We feature a wide range of colours, imaginative outer materials, and striking patterns: from shiny nylon to micro-patterns and Vichy. We also offer two denim models combined with ecofur that resembles shearling.

Enjoyable sustainability: Otto d’Ame has once again significantly expanded its stylish range with its Wayout jacket collection. 70 percent of the collection is already based on eco-materials.

Mou Wearable Vitality

They have truly established themselves in the streetscape. As soon as temperatures drop, these chunky fur boots are the footwear of choice. Especially as they match so perfectly with every look: wide-leg jeans, skirts, or dresses. Cult brand Mou knows how to step it up a notch. The brand’s crochet stitching has made it instantly recognisable, yet there are new favourites to explore every season. This creativity fuels the label’s excellent sales. Mou is a firm favourite with many European retail partners due to its quick sell-out. www.mou-online.com

Mou impresses anew with seemingly boundless creativity.

A collection from which retailers can create their own individual assortment: Canadian Classics.

Canadian Classics

Family Favourite

It is rare for a brand to be equally successful in womenswear and menswear, while also commanding such respect in childrenswear. Canadian Classics is positioned as a jacket brand at the entry level of the premium segment, making it ideal for creating a counterpoint to the galloping prices of luxury brands. Infused with Italian creativity, the brand channels iconic jacket and parka styles and interprets them in a subtle, understated way. The range is vast, from recycled down to long puffer jackets. The colour variety encourages customers to buy styles that are off the beaten track. Moreover, Canadian Classics raises the fashion stakes with capsules – a well-rounded affair. www. canadianclassics.it

Otto

Consistent throughout: 3rd May reduces menswear to essentials. At a mark-up of 3.0, retail prices for jersey range from 89 to 169 Euros.

3rd May That’s It!

What had Patrick Röllin, as a long-time fashion buyer, always been searching for? A brand that offers a sustainable, transparent product that is easy to understand and that focuses on continuity, comfort, and quality. So, he launched 3rd May for men’s t-shirts, long-sleeves, turtlenecks, polos, and shirts. “The compressed collection is supplemented every season with a sprinkling of innovations and contemporary colours. That’s it! We do not completely reinvent the piece in question,” Röllin explains. The label also offers a NOS programme. Everything has been thoroughly conceived: the core quality is a long-staple Swiss cotton, finished in Switzerland and knitted in Austria, with a subtle feel and sheen. The pieces can be washed at up to 60 degrees without the colours bleeding. A new cashmere capsule featuring loose-fitting unisex coarse-knit jumpers is no less consistent. It is the result of a goat sponsorship programme in cooperation with a Swiss NGO. “We wish to help nomads lead a dignified life by providing them with purchase guarantees and enabling them to further improve cashmere quality through the purchase of additional goats.”

As of this season, 3rd May is marketed in Germany and Austria by Agentur Toepfer and presented at Supreme in Munich and Düsseldorf. www.3rdmay.com

Matéma New Knitwear

Italian label Matéma is an insider tip for anyone looking for a little excitement in knitwear. Manufactured exclusively in Italy, the brand spearheads a new, international look that breaks with the usual Italian styles. Oversized fits and small, subtle details infused with zeitgeist make Matéma an exciting alternative. The men’s and women’s collections are equally exciting: contemporary knitwear. With immediate effect, MODEist, with showrooms in Düsseldorf and Munich, is the new sales partner for Germany and Austria. www.matema.it

Contemporary knitwear: Matéma.

Marlino Group plans to open a branch in Porto that offers production capacities for brands and private labels.

Marlino Group Porto Branch

Marlino Group is embarking on a new project. The company plans to open a production office under German management in Porto at the beginning of 2023. The branch will not only process the company’s own brands such as Silk Sisters or Wunderfell. Above all, the plan is to offer other brands an opportunity to set up, manage, and monitor production in Europe. “We have excellent production partners in Portugal and cooperate with reliable companies, especially in the areas of jersey, woven fabrics, and ready-to-wear. The coordination is swift, uncomplicated, and allows for small-batch production. Compared to Asia, delivery times are faster, and minimum volumes are much lower. Besides sustainable raw materials and socially fair production conditions, I appreciate the high flexibility of Portugal. Porto is predestined for a switch from Asia, as capacities are readily available. Yet I know from my own experience that things only run smoothly if you are on site yourself to enforce certain parameters. For one thing, cuts are prepared by outsourced cutters, not by the factory. For another, a dedicated team for monitoring and coordination is essential for production to take on a completely different level of precision,” says Dirk Nienaber. Marlino Group, Munich/Germany, www.private-lab.de, nienaber@marlinogroup.com

Showroom

Mey “We Strive to Present Our Strength to the

World”

Matthias, you have launched a new line entitled Soulwear by mey. What is the underlying philosophy?

Matthias Mey, Managing Partner of mey: We embrace our core philosophy as one of the most sought-after body lifestyle brands on the market. In doing so, we quickly arrive at one of our core competencies: highly innovative and high-quality materials. Our goal is to further develop our product and to present this strength to the world. This is what the new sub-brand does, by introducing a comfortable streetwear look without compromising on sustainability.

What does that mean exactly? We not only use sustainable fabrics such as recycled polyamide, recycled polyester, FSC-certified viscose, and GOTS-certified cotton, but also attach great importance to sustainability

JCSophie Mix and Match

throughout the entire value chain. We spent three years developing Soulwear by mey and conducted a great deal of testing, which was so much fun! After a test phase online and at selected retail partners, we are now officially launching with the autumn/winter season 2023.

You are also relaunching meystory.

Yes, which takes us back to the basic idea of this small collection: to develop the best white t-shirt, complete with a strong NOS programme. We employ only the finest organic cotton and cotton-Tencel. The objective: excellence in luxury sustainable clothes. In addition to basic styles, cool prints can be realised at short notice, featuring themes of skiing and nature in the first season.

Innovative fashion that impresses with reasonable prices? Enter JCSophie. The total look collection’s message is casually feminine, featuring ostensibly simple silhouettes and natural materials in neutral shades spruced up with touches of colour. The collection from the Netherlands has been a staple in the portfolio of Agentur Klaus in Austria for more than three years. “Sales are fantastic, and the number of fans is growing,” says Christian Klaus. “The collection is made up of individual pieces and is therefore easy to combine with other brands. It is perfect for owner-managed retailers, as are the price structure and the 3.0 mark-up. Retail prices for dresses range from 120 to 160 Euros, from 100 to 120 Euros for trousers, and from 169 to 199 Euros for outdoor wear. www.jcsophie.nl

The fashion background of JCSophie’s Dutch owners is palpable.

Streetwear, but cosy: Soulwear by mey offers plenty of layering, strong prints, and matching colour themes.

Matthias Mey enjoys innovation in development.

Simply the best: the meystory relaunch.

JOURNEYS TO MAGICAL PLACES

Every Niù collection is born from the magic of a specific place, be it Africa, Rajasthan, Yucatan, Portugal, or Bali. While its roots lie in Italy, the brand has, after 23 years, grown into a large international community that shares the joy of expressing femininity through an informal, contemporary, and refined style. The label’s creative universe comprises colours, natural fabrics, attention to sustainability, and respect for the wonderful traditions that designers bring back from their travels around the world to incorporate into the collection. Out of respect for the efforts of its customers and agents, and gratitude for their trust, the brand has made a conscious decision not to establish its own e-commerce platform. Serena Cibischino’s exuberant energy, coupled with her free-spirited flair for colour and her knack for mixing prints and fabrics, is fully reflected in the output of her design studio, a young and diverse team that forms the creative heart of Niù. The studio team not only handles the design of garments and accessories, but it is also responsible for overall collection conceptualisation. As Creative Director, Serena coordinates the multi-professional staff and ensures that every detail is in line with the brand message, as well as the inspiration drawn from each journey to the most magical places in the world, which, together with Serena, the entire team is involved in. The incredible wealth of stimuli offered by each of these journeys inspires collections in a simple and natural way. This is how Niù’s colourful, poetic, and unmistakably characteristic style is reinvented season after season. The sales representative in Germany and Austria is the Good News Agency of Munich. www.niu-fashion.it

NIÙ

Traditional patterns serve as templates for imaginative all-over prints.

Intense colours, always accentuated anew, distinguish the collection.

ALL-ROUNDER FOR COMFORT

The hard-wearing Blundstone boots are a staple in every shoe cupboard in Australia. The family-run company dates back 150 years, including years of constant development in terms of materials and production. The brand’s blend of heritage and zeitgeist is now being harnessed to attract fashion customers alongside die-hard fans. With this in mind, Blundstone chose room with a view as its sales representative for Austria. Blundstone’s Originals line comprises the evergreens in numerous colour and leather variations. The robust leather upper is breathable and water-repellent. The durable soles are equipped with an impact protection system in the heel. The Classic line is characterised by high-quality leather lining and even more comfortable soles. Naturally, there is also a vegan line, which includes the classics as well as one of the new block heel styles for women. The models in the Dress line are designed a little slimmer and simpler for both men and women. For winter, the Thermal series featuring a sheepskin footbed and Thinsulate insulation in the upper is an excellent choice. The women’s range offers plenty of variety and feminine lasts, as well as different upper and heel heights. The Active line comprises even lighter boots, whereas the Heritage line caters to the premium segment. Last but not least, the slip-on shoes are also available for children. www.blundstone.de

BLUNDSTONE

The timeless classics are state-of-the-art.

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GTA prioritises comfort, employing high-end qualities such as luxury wool and elegant jersey, in natural colours ranging from light shades to warm tones, for its men’s trousers. The same applies to womenswear, which, owing to popular demand, is being expanded to include fashionable styles: from narrow silhouettes to wide trousers complemented by casual carrot and balloon fits.

The central USP of both collections is the patent-pending waist comfort band technology. It ensures that the trousers fit comfortably because the waistband leaves scope for several additional centimetres, providing the convenience of jogging pants without the typical drawstring look.

In recent months, the product team has worked hard to source materials that comply with sustainability regulations. All models for the new season are made of fabrics that comply with strict chemical safety standards, as well as social and ecological guidelines. All fabric suppliers are either Oeko-Tex or ZDHC (Zero Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals) certified and therefore free of harmful chemicals –proof that the comfort aspect of GTA is consistently applied throughout.

SYMBIOSIS BETWEEN HIGH-PERFORMANCE AND FASHION STATEMENT.

Luxury outerwear for ski slopes, après-ski, and the city.

NATURAL BALANCE

Founded in 1969 in the Swiss Alpine resort of St. Moritz, Jetset has specialised in the creation of luxury skiwear for women and men since its inception and has continuously defined new standards and trends within this segment. Sales already doubled in the past winter season, followed by the successful launch of the more athletic spring/summer 2023 collection. International expansion is set to continue throughout the autumn/winter 2023 season. Jetset attaches great importance to sustainability and innovation. Production takes place exclusively in Europe, the majority thereof in Italy. No real down is used. In terms of colour, Jetset remains true to its roots: saffron, bright pink, rust, and burgundy tones are combined with army green, black, and white. Shiny gold is paired with earth tones and purple, complemented by fabric structures that create intriguing surfaces. Dark greys are woven into exclusive prints for men, while a sunny orange is featured in the women’s collection.

“Jetset represents attitude, a natural balance between heritage and modernity for a new way of living. We respect history while discarding expectations. In order to better meet market requirements, we offer a choice between an early and a later order and delivery date. The right product, at the right time.” Jetset Sales Director Crispin Schindler

JETSET

Activefashionlifestyle with a passion progressivefor designs.

MODULAR OUTERWEAR

In its timeless outdoor jackets, various mid-layer variants, and high-quality parkas, Canadian brand Nobis focuses on layered looks and multi-functionality to accommodate changing weather conditions. Design Director Michael Kerr designed the autumn/winter 2023 collection with an off-the-grid approach in mind. “Customers should be able to wear these pieces in urban environments as well as in outdoor and mountain settings,” he argues, adding: “I have been travelling a lot for work lately and wanted to design a collection that is easy to combine and pack.” Inspired by the après-ski movement of the 1980s and 1990s, Nobis introduces a fresh chevron design, retro silhouettes, and colourways including Rio Red, Festival Fuchsia, Potent Purple, Antique Moss, Foggy Blue, and Burnt Orange. Every piece in the collection is designed to be worn in different seasons and temperatures. The individual layers can be adapted from autumn through winter to spring and provide an excellent foundation for a multifunctional all-year wardrobe. “With this new collection, we have created a line that is intended for the city but can be taken anywhere,” says Robin Yates, Nobis Vice President and co-founder. Retail prices range from 495 to 1,205 Euros. Sales for northern and eastern Germany are handled by Agentur Stoeckler out of Düsseldorf, while southern Germany and Austria are covered by Agentur Knierer of Munich. www.nobis.com

NOBIS

Unisex oversized jumper made of Berber fleece.

Models featuring half-length sleeves are a new addition this season.

“We drew inspiration from the deconstructed DIY aesthetic of the 1980s and 1990s, as well as the nostalgia of colourful retro parkas.”

Michael Kerr, Senior Design Director of Nobis

NO COMPROMISE

Highlights of the St.Ann trouser collection include casually cut jog pants featuring a sophisticated finish.

Comfort is paramount. In each trouser collection, St.Ann combines casual elegance, contemporary fits, relaxed colour twists, and distinctive patterns with the highest level of comfort, proving that this blend appeals to customers. With a wide range of fashionable to athletic designs, the autumn/winter 2023 collection of the trouser specialist from Nuremberg focuses primarily on strong, non-garish colours and toneon-tone prints. The understated elegance of the collection is most evident in fabrics such as vegan leather, high-quality and increasingly Oeko-Tex certified materials, and the incorporation of glittery yarns. In terms of silhouettes, St.Ann is, as per usual, one step ahead and, in addition to its bestselling model Roxana as casually cut jog pants, also presents styles such as culottes, flared trousers, and palazzo pants. The wide-cut, elegantly draped trousers exude pure glamour or subtle elegance, depending on the colour choice – especially when the strong natural tones come into their own.

ST. ANN

• The casual-luxury line St.Ann presents relaxed, feminine styles: elegance and comfort combined in a single pair of trousers.

• Tone-in-tone statement prints such as Missoni patterns look particularly classy.

A pair of trousers that fits every woman: Funky Staff’s bestseller You2 is available in countless variations; they can be combined with a relaxed stretch blazer to create a casual trouser suit.

HAPPY WEAR

Prints on fine viscose-silk blends, voluminous coarse knits, casual hoodies, and, of course, never without the bestselling You2 trousers: Funky Staff designer Kerstin Bernecker creates casual femininity that transcends age. Feel-good and favourite pieces that are perfectly combinable with each other and naturally integrate into an evolved wardrobe. “It is the perfect combination of seasonal wow pieces and items that are so convincing in their self-evidence that you would love to own the entire colour palette,” says Funky Staff’s founder Uwe Bernecker in praise of his wife. Prime examples include the You2 trousers, for which a European patent has been filed, and which Funky Staff offers in a wide range of varieties. “A pair of trousers that really fits every woman regardless of her size,” says Kerstin Bernecker. Be it in vegan leather, camouflage print, or soft baby corduroy, the trousers illustrate perfectly that high-quality, European production at a comprehensible price/performance ratio can burst with fashion appeal. Uwe Bernecker: “We are a perfect match for fashion houses with high advice standards that really want to dress their customers from head to toe. That is precisely why it is important to us that prices stay grounded, despite European, sustainable production.”

FUNKY STAFF

Even sustainablemoreafter the switch to Funkypre­order: Staff.

Funky Caps, the Frankfurtbased company’s hats, are manufactured one hundred percent in Italy.

A GOOD FEELING!

The collection has visibly evolved: “With contemporary hallmarks, special twists, and thoughtful details, our knitwear and jersey pieces are destined to become favourites in the wardrobes of our discerning customers,” says Cora Isabel David, who is in charge of design, together with Sarah Felipa Martins.

Premium knits and jersey for casual feminine styles are characteristic of Bloom. As experienced knitters, the Bloom team relies on pure cashmere and pure, extra-fine merino wool, as well as blends with a high cashmere, alpaca, or mohair content, to create modern styles with an elevated standard of fit and finish.

The detailing and bold colour schemes express optimism and joie de vivre: shades named Orange Flame, Electric Purple, Shocking Pink, and Bright Green make each other glow, while soft Sage Green, Smoky Blue and cream-hued tones exude tranquillity. Shortened boxy jumpers and cardigans pair nicely with high-waisted skirts and trousers. Vibes of the 1970s inspire colourful zigzag and cable-knit patterns, for example for small twinsets and fluffy coarse knit jumpers.

With jerseys in matching colours, blouses, and dresses featuring bold prints, Bloom transforms into a total look.

• Comfort knitwear

• Boldness of colour

• Love of detail

BLOOM

Technical jerseys with a brushed inner side represent next-generation jog styles.

CASUAL & CHIC

RAFFAELO ROSSI

The betweenboundaries casual and sporty are fluid.

The great asset of Raffaello

Rossi’s collection is its ability to combine feminine chic and casual comfort. The latter acts as baseline, with a strong focus on jersey qualities in solid colours, but also as jersey jacquards in black and white or multicoloured with pink and green hues. These new jacquards are a winter alternative to printed trousers. In addition, the label offers high-end business qualities with a cool wool character, which look like wool but are completely wool-free and bi-elastic, as well as soft technical flannels and flowing recycled polyester fabrics. Important colourways include wool white, camel, light grey, and anthracite. Highlights range from classic cotton corduroy to a technical jersey corduroy and a flowing technical velvet. Satin – available in royal blue, gold, and black – and a jersey with interwoven sequins exude a sense of glamour. Brushed cotton, authentic cotton, fine corduroy, and leather-coated cotton are key fabrics in the casual segment. Vegan leather remains as a nappa and suede option. Denim is all about sustainable authentic washes and water-free dyeing processes. The spectrum ranges from high-stretch to denim featuring hemp. Wide-leg trousers are the ultimate up-and-coming trend. Long, flowing styles are highly popular alongside culottes. Flared and bootcut models, in some cases featuring slits, as well as pleated trousers with wide or tapered legs also exemplify the new trouser silhouette. Narrow shapes are reinterpreted via slightly shortened versions with a mini kick. www.raffaello-rossi.de

A MODERN INTERPRETATION OF VALUES

“Consistency is inspired by change” is more than a motto for Schneiders, a premium manufacturer from Salzburg, in terms of advancing continuous development. Schneiders interprets alpine tradition and values in a modern context: the contrast between nature and modernity translates into a synthesis of colour and fabrics made of technical and natural fibres. Alongside authenticity, craftsmanship, and exclusivity, Managing Director Wolfgang Binder focuses on sustainability. The autumn/winter 2023/24 menswear collection features athletic looks with a functionality geared towards all-season compatibility. The colour palette plays with contrasts: modern neutrals meet Indian summer colours in earthy tones –from moss, cinnamon, sage, and dark olive to indigo, chocolate, and tobacco brown. Multi-performance fabrics, wind-repellent down, and models with zip-out lining made of wool complement the perfect look. “Landart” is reinterpreted in a combination of loden, complemented by Shetlands and tweeds from England – the definition of sustainability with a premium edge. The autumn/winter 2023/24 womenswear collection is a commitment to nature and selected materials. Schneiders relies on biodegradable or recycled wool, which is pre-sorted by colour and remains completely undyed. New paisley prints highlight the look, defined by the bold use of both colour and contrasts. The style of new country luxury is the symbiosis of perfect fit, sartorial workmanship, and sophisticated use of materials. The best way to experience the collections is in the brand’s showroom, which opened in August 2022 in an Art Nouveau villa at Giselakai 51 in Salzburg. www.schneiders.com

THE

SCHNEIDERS

Undyed wool, biodegradable materials, or recycled wool: Schneider on the path to sustainability.

MANUFACTURER OF FINEST TEXTILES

HERRLICHER

The stylised weaving comb featured in

Erwin O. Licher

the Herrlicher logo is emblematic of a fine textile selection that is crafted with a love for detail. Mr Licher himself embodies all aspects of the Herrlicher brand. He has extensive experience as a designer, shaper, and mastermind in the field of high-quality clothing. Production takes place in the Mediterranean region in countries such as Italy, Greece, and Turkey, as well as in Bulgaria, Portugal, and Morocco. The manufacturing partners are all small, family-run businesses, the owners of which Erwin O. Licher knows personally and visits every two to three months. Article sets produced in China or India are not transported all the way to Munich by huge container ships, but by the Trans-Siberian Railway. The fabrics for the trousers are sourced from Candiani of Italy, Royo of Spain, or Isko of Turkey, and since 2019 they have all been made of organic or recycled cotton. Many used effects are created by means of laser technology. The silhouettes are in line with retail demand. Alongside established slim and regular fits, the new loose and wide variants are accounting for an increasingly larger share of sales. The brand, founded in 2004, has long since developed from a trouser specialist into a supplier of coats, jackets, knitwear, and jersey. Both the men’s and women’s collections are well developed in terms of breadth and depth. Trends for autumn/winter 2023 include checks in warm, natural autumn colours for skirts, trousers, jackets, coats, and blazers. The styles are grown-up, classy, and sophisticated – a little tomboyish and glamorous, yet always uncomplicated to wear. Soft MicroModal has gained a firm foothold alongside soft sweatwear with roughened surfaces. Trouser suits and coats are available in soft wool mix qualities. Thanks to the eco-efficient Sonora filling from Dupont, Herrlicher’s puffer jackets do not require down. The collection can be viewed at Premium in Berlin, as well as at Supreme in Düsseldorf and Munich. Puro Fashion is responsible for sales in Switzerland. In Austria, the women’s and men’s collections are presented by Agentur Kaspar at Brandboxx Salzburg and Agentur Peter Stoidl respectively. www.herrlicher.com

DENIM WITH FAIR TRADE ASPIRATIONS.

“We at Herrlicher always adhere to our basic values. Besides that, we do not permit ourselves to be restricted in our creativity.”

A tongue-in-cheek attitude is always present.

Casual, modern styles for everyone wishing to finally enjoy ready-to-wear again.

NON-CLASSICAL CLASSICS

MANUEL RITZ

Readyto-wear can be so much fun! Italian brand Manuel Ritz is one of the leading protagonists of a new generation of menswear brands: playful and relaxed, always displaying impressive nonchalance and tongue-in-cheek attitude. A feat that can only be achieved if you know what you are talking about: Manuel Ritz, as part of the Paoloni Group, has the necessary know-how at his disposal. The pattern makers know exactly where to add a centimetre of length to break with conventional perceptions, and where to add that little extra in the seam to make even a double-breasted suit feel like a comfortable jumper. Not to mention the eclecticism inherent in the fabrics: the pinstripe is not a regular pinstripe but slightly frayed, and the butter-soft corduroy comes in cornflower blue. Designed for a generation of men who reach for a suit or jacket when they want to stand out from the crowd of jumper wearers.

WANT IT

The best buys of the new order season are not necessarily bestsellers – but rather exciting pieces that add the finishing touch to product ranges and enhance the tried and tested with eye catchers.

OMNIPOTENT TROUSERS

Be Able. Italian brand Be Able has more than 50 years of experience in trouser manufacturing. Today, the third generation of the Mennillo family aspires to combine new production methods with Neapolitan tailoring tradition to create the perfect trousers. The trouser collections for women and men aim to suit every occasion due to cuts, material selection, and design – omnipotent all-rounders. The entire production process takes place in-house: design, fabric selection, cutting, and sewing – in other words: 100% “Made in Italy”. Until now, Italy has accounted for 90 percent of the target market, yet as of this season, Adventure Fashion Agency is assuming representation for the entire DACH region. Be Able, Caserta/Italy, info@beableconcept.it, www.beableconcept.it

NATURAL SENSUALITY

Lara Chamandi. Lebanese designer Lara Chamandi founded her eponymous label in Milan in 2021. The idea was to create a women’s collection that not only expertly toys with femininity and sensuality, yet is also sustainable. Lara is deeply connected to nature, and it is important to her to reflect this in her fashion. She cites the elements of air, water, earth, and fire as style-defining aspects. Fabrics are light, soft, and enveloping. Asymmetrical skirts and long dresses skilfully caress the body and reveal the wearer’s skin through unexpected slits: a sensual interplay of materials, cuts, and carefully selected colours. The entire collection is “Made in Italy” and handcrafted.

Lara Chamandi, Milan/Italy, info@larachamandi.com, www.larachamandi.com

VEGAN KICKSTART

Anne Schollenberger. Making a dream come true: Anne-Kristin Schollenberger relies on high-quality materials for her debut collection. In fact, cactus leather forms the foundation for the vegan accessories including handbags, shoes, and hats. The material – obtained from renewable resources – is amazingly soft, adaptable, and breathable. As an additional special feature, the inner lining features Schollenberger’s favourite text, which was penned by Hans Kruppa. The collection is funded via a Kickstarter campaign and will be delivered from 2023 onwards. The accessories are priced between 150 and 500 Euros.

Anne Schollenberger, Cologne/Germany, info@anne-schollenberger.com, IG: anne.schollenberger

IN MOVEMENT

Carolina de Barros. Art never stands still, and neither does the jewellery by Carolina de Barros. The German-Brazilian jewellery designer draws inspiration for her collections from nature and artists like Talisa do Amaral. De Barros rarely prepares sketches, relying on an ancient technique instead. Each piece is hand-carved in wax and cast in precious metals. The wax echoes an unpredictable and fluid expression, preserving the sensuality and vibrancy of the designer’s style. The design process resembles that of a sculptress whose work is unique and timeless – created to empower modern women and inspire generations. Prices range from 80 to 570 Euros.

Carolina de Barros, UK, hello@carolinadebarros.com, www.carolinadebarros.com, IG: carolinadebarrosjeweller

RICHNESS OF METAPHORS

Bobkova. The blossoming chestnuts on Khreshchatyk Street as a symbol for spring/ summer 2023 and a colour palette dedicated to Kiev’s old town – Ukrainian designer Kristina Bobkova interprets her collection as a symbol of her country’s rebirth through the power of nature. The core of the collection is formed by Bobkova’s trademark: architectural minimalism inspired by Japanese cuts. Skirts and trouser suits paired with oversized shirts and asymmetric dresses in black and neutral hues set the tone for gender neutrality. This season’s key pieces are intentionally unfinished, featuring open seams, visible stitches, and cuts that epitomise the craftsmanship of the brand’s Kiev atelier. Purchase prices range from 40 to 540 Euros.

Bobkova, Kiev/Ukraine, sales@bobkova.com, T +38674016788, www.bobkova.com.ua, @bobkova_official

VEGAN RUNNING SHOES

Zen Running Club. In line with the claim “Made from good decisions”, the vegan unisex running shoes are made from plant-based materials such as eucalyptus, sugar cane, and natural rubber. The retail price stands at 149 Euros. The brand philosophy of Zen Running Club incorporates a recycling concept and B-Corp certification in order to satisfy the demands and wishes of modern consumers. Initially, the sneakers were launched exclusively at stationary retailers KaDeWe and Oberpollinger in Germany, Bründl Sport in Austria, and Fenwick in the UK. Zen Running Club intends to continue bringing like-minded runners together by inviting them to exchange ideas at running events in Los Angeles, Barcelona, London, Munich, and Berlin.

Zen Running Club B.V., Amsterdam/The Netherlands, hello@zenrunning.club, www.zenrunning.club

WEARABLE SCULPTURES

Chiara Voliani. After 20 years of experience in the luxury retail sector, Chiara Voliani fulfilled her dream of creating her personal, handcrafted jewellery collection in 2019. The pieces are genuine works of art, or, as she would say: “jewellery sculptures”. Each item is designed by Voliani and shaped by hand, then plated with pure silver. The resin jewellery is usually adorned with stones, semi-precious stones, or various metals, resulting in extraordinary rings, necklaces, and bracelets that appear opulent while remaining extremely light. Moreover, Voliani firmly believes that her pieces are not merely material objects, but that they convey a certain energy through the precious and semi-precious stones: “The properties of these metals and stones are infused into my art objects, making them extremely special.”

Chiara Voliani, Pisa/Italy, T 0039.349.8227001, www.chiaravoliani.it

SUSTAINABLE LUXURY

Elena Berton. Elena Berton’s policy is to launch a new limited edition every season. The womenswear collection is, in fact, exclusively handcrafted in Italy by local artigiani. For Berton, highest quality, Italian craftsmanship, and sustainability are paramount. “I exclusively collaborate with leading Italian companies that have been recognised for their ethical working conditions, sustainability, and environmental awareness. In addition, most of them recycle all their production waste.” The designer’s leather pieces are particularly popular: coats, dresses, and bags. The leather is naturally tanned using processes that require both time and a high degree of craftsmanship. Elena Berton presently has two shops of her own, one in the centre of Munich and one in Pietrasanta on the Italian coast.

Elena Berton, Pietrasanta/Italy, T +39 0584 283151, www.elenaberton.com

THE WASTE TRANSFORMERS

Seads. Sneakers or espadrilles? These shoes are definitely stylish eye-catchers. Agnes Wagter has long wanted to launch a shoe line for women with larger feet, not least as she herself is a size 43. The litter washed up on the beach after a storm inspired her to create a shoe collection that evokes the joy of a beach holiday. Launched in 2021 as a unisex line in sizes 36 to 46, Seads is circular-ready. Seads uppers are made of recycled plastic from the ocean, combined with biodegradable footbeds and soles. Worn-out pairs can be returned. “Seads are virtually waste-free and 90 percent recyclable,” says Wagter, who donates 10 percent of the profits to non-profit organisations such as Sana Mare and Greenmanjaro. Seads Holding GmbH, Essen/Germany, agnes@seads.global, www.seads.global

LONDON STYLE

urbancode. The London label launched in 2008 with women’s accessories, it has developed into a full womenswear brand with a focus on jackets and fake fur over the years. urbancode established itself quickly due to its team’s many years of design experience, as well as the combination of hip and cool looks with high-quality materials. The brand’s strength lies in feminine silhouettes featuring innovative details, offering a collection of versatility and glamour. The price-performance ratio is convincing. urbancode positions itself as an entry-level brand in the premium segment, filling the gap between high street and high end. Urbancode, London/UK, sales@urbancode.co.uk, www.urbancode.co.uk

SILK DREAMS

Silk95Five. A specially developed silk blend serves as the foundation for the Silk95Five collection. It contains five percent stretch material, and is washable, breathable, and environmentally friendly. The result is a concise range of feminine, mix-and-match pieces that are available all year round in a classic colour palette, with seasonal additions. From blouses to jumpsuits, Silk95Five exhibits great versatility; the bestseller is a dress that can be worn for a special occasion and as a summer dress. This uncomplicated approach has allowed the collection to make inroads into renowned stores in the US, UK, and Europe.

Silk95Five, Palm Beach/US, sales@nouvelleSilk95Five.com, www.nouvelleSilk95Five.com

FEMININE KNITWEAR

Valentine Witmeur Lab. Founded in Belgium in 2016, the knitwear brand specialises in jumpers and accessories made of Italian yarns. Each design is produced in realistic volumes to avoid overconsumption and maintain exclusivity. For spring/ summer 2023, Valentine Witmeur Lab embraces golden days and seductive summer nights. Bold colours and skin-permeable materials celebrate femininity. Figure-hugging cuts and supple styles guide the wearer through the day. The aim is for women to feel trendy, feminine, and confident in clothes that strike a balance between modern and comfortable with apparent ease. Sales are handled by Melagence in Berlin, with temporary showrooms in Paris.

Melagence GmbH, Berlin/ Germany, +49 176 62996338, saskia.frank@melagence.com, www.melagence.com

INFINITELY FEMININE

Anfiny. What is the next step for a menswear brand like Distretto 12, which has enjoyed great success in key European markets for several seasons? It ventures to launch a womenswear collection! Thus Anfiny was born, a new “Made in Italy” label for dynamic, fashion-savvy, and environmentally conscious women. The collection, conceived as a capsule, debuts in the 2023/24 autumn/winter season. Anfiny focuses on outerwear and offers six double-face coats made of high-quality wool in 24 colourways. Silk dresses are available for spring/summer onwards, covering dress codes from cocktail to black tie events. Again, the colour palette is versatile, divided into three categories: mid-season, powerful, and timeless. From now on represented by Adventure Fashion in Düsseldorf.

Adventure Fashion, Düsseldorf/Germany, info@adventure-gmbh.de

MAIS MOVIMENTO

Policarpo. What happens when you combine the dirndl with Portuguese verve? Designer Cidalia Amante-Policarpo decided to find out. The Stuttgart-based designer with German and Portuguese roots transforms the traditional apron into an extravagant little peplum and adds zest to the customary silhouette. In doing so, she throws open a new door and casts traditional costume in a new light. The designer attaches great importance to high-quality manufacturing. Policarpo’s wide, swinging skirt element quickly established itself as a signature detail and guarantees a high recognition value. Currently, the dresses and dirndls are sold via the label’s own online store and a studio in Mindelheim. B2B distribution is in the pipeline.

Policarpo, Mindelheim/Germany, cidalia@policarpo-trachten.de, www.policarpo-trachten.de

ORIENT MEETS OCCIDENT

Label17. Travelling broadens the horizon – and inspires Label17’s collections. The bags and accessories are handcrafted by artisans from Switzerland and Morocco using traditional methods. This symbiosis fuses oriental heritage with Swiss design. Lambskin and leather form the backbone of the collections, which are released twice a year and distributed in Switzerland, Germany, and Australia. In terms of price, the standard bag model is priced at 849 Swiss Francs, while the medium model costs 598 Swiss Francs. The mark-up is approximately 2.6. The first store, Label17 Studio in Zurich, has already been launched. It not only offers the brand’s own products, but also a carefully curated range of labels such as Buttertea and Reinhard Plank. Label17, Zurich/Switzerland, office@label17.com, www.label17.com

REFRAME THE CITY

Return life to the centre, now! Cities represent the heart of our society and are our future, not only for reasons of climate protection. They require purpose instead of commerce, strategies in stead of traffic. New visions clearly show that those who think of cities only as the hunting grounds of capitalism have already made the first mistake.

“CITIES HAVE TO CONSIDER THEIR FUTURE FROM THE FUTURE’S PERSPECTIVE”

Empty storefronts, non-shoppers, boredom: heavy problems seem to drown city centres and their retail landscape. And the bigger an issue, the wiser it is to broaden your view when looking at it. That is why this discussion about the future of city centres does not feature store owners and their landlords, but a trend scout and a retail strategist who share a reputation as visionaries: Vitra’s Raphael Gielgen and Brown’s Susanne Tide-Frater (read more about them in the bios attached to their pictures). They discuss retail concepts that attract new generations to the city centre, find the key to bringing back foot traffic, voice their opinions on the role of governments, and the notion of turnover per square metre, and they also reveal what will be more important for a store than the actual goods. Panel host: Stephan Huber. Text: Petrina Engelke.

Let us start with my personal view of the future of city centres. I believe a lively, diverse, and, of course, economically sound retail structure is the cement that holds cities together. Would you agree on that?

Susanne Tide-Frater: Of course, absolutely. I am an archaeologist, so I know that from early Greek history. The marketplace, the agora, has always been where exchange takes place. And I do not think you can take that away. Secondly, I have always believed that the future of retail depends much less on the offers but rather on how we as humans live, how we work, and how we play. And I think this is now truer than ever. The pandemic, as well as economic and social issues, may have accelerated this development, but I believe it was already underway. Retail as we know it – you know, a store full of goods presented on a rigid fixture, selected by a buyer – just does not appeal to new generations, as that is not how they function. They enjoy concepts that combine spaces, where they can spend time, be entertained, browse, and exchange. This interaction is extremely important. However, I think the current retail proposal very rarely considers this. So that is my first observation: we need to change.

Raphael Gielgen: I think our future will be dominated by a generation of people who no longer identifies with buying more and more things. I believe we are entering the era of the non-shopper, and a next generation of creators. They do not necessarily all want to produce something themselves, but I would say producers will be more accepted when they participate in a circular economy and work out of the web 3.0, giving smart actors visibility through decentralisation.

Do you think this will happen swiftly?

Raphael Gielgen: Yes, for two reasons.

Number one: 90 percent of people 20 years and younger spend most of their

i BeLieVe We aRe eNteRiNG the eRa Of the NON-ShOPPeR. Raphael Gielgen

time on Twitch, on TikTok, et cetera, and their attention is much more absorbed by extended realities, also known as augmented realities (AR), than by any physical realities. Number two: our economy is in dire straits, and this could be a turning point, again – in the same way that the Covid crisis changed our work life. In order to go to work, it does not matter anymore where you live or where you are at the moment. I believe change will be jumpstarted by this cocktail, mixing the economic situation and the growth of web 3.0. At the same time, well thought out physical retail gained in strength during the pandemic, because it allowed for personal interaction.

Susanne Tide-Frater: I think this opposition that we lived with for the last 10 years, you know, physical versus digital, that is completely caduque. It is over. These two are inseparable. Stores will remain important as an entry point or a gateway to the brand, as they provide a possibility of encounter and trying things on, a possibility of physical interaction with a product and even other creators. I believe that this will remain extremely important, and one will be intertwined with the other in a future metaverse, which will actually be enriching for, rather than competing with traditional retail. I do not even want to call these new concepts retail concepts, because they might be part of clubs or wellbeing places where you incidentally shop something, yet you might have pre-selected the goods online.

Raphael Gielgen: Right. During the last three weeks, I was in New York, Boston, Seoul, and Tokyo, looking at what is going on in this regard, for example at the Pan Am Store in Seoul. These stores are like museums, only perhaps 3 percent is retail. They do not match the term “retail” anymore, just like the office is no longer an office. And look, I am 53, I do not belong to the group these concepts cater to. I suppose none of us three does. Compared to us, they live on a different planet, and their own rituals are the only thing that brings them together physically.

Susanne Tide-Frater: Exactly.

Raphael Gielgen: And their rituals are not similar to the rituals we had 10, 15, or 20 years ago.

Absolutely. What does all that mean for the role of city centres and their future development?

Raphael Gielgen: A major current issue for city centres, especially in big cities, is a loss of traction, a loss of professionals and commuters, and a loss of tourists and peo-

StOReS WiLL RemaiN imPORtaNt aS a GateWay tO the BRaND, aS they PROViDe a POSSiBiLity Of PhySiCaL iNteRaCtiON With a PRODUCt aND eVeN OtheR CReatORS. Susanne tide-frater

ple nearby. City centres are not frequented as much, and this challenge cannot be solved by a large developer. It can only be solved by a joint commitment to come up with new ideas, involving local authorities, landlords, and developers.

Susanne Tide-Frater: Yes, Raphael, I think this is the key. It matches what I have observed. As long as landlords and city councils focus so hard on turnover, they will not revive city centres. They need to take time to invest into the future and bring in young entrepreneurs rent-free. They need to foster exciting new concepts, like hubs. Otherwise, city centres will never be revived again.

Can you give an example of such a new retail concept that might help revive a city centre?

Susanne Tide-Frater: I believe that even talking of retail is probably misleading. These are hubs. Let me give you an example that has been around for a while: Soho House, a chain of clubs that originally were workspaces. They then became a communication space where people could meet, like an out-of-office office. They now have wellbeing hubs, health, food, music, entertainment, and they also include spaces where you can buy furniture or fashion. Yet it is not a store at all. It is a club. They understood the importance of interaction very early. But what Soho House is lacking is an incentive for creators. I think new store concepts need to offer that as well.

What about digital technologies?

Susanne Tide-Frater: For me, everything is omnichannel. You have to be able to enter the brand, rather than the store, at any moment from anywhere. However, I think service is still extremely important in this new retail world. So, you get to have your own experience in the store, but you do not take products with you, they will be delivered to you wherever, whenever. I mean, for obvious reasons, nobody will go into the city centre by car anymore. Discovery will be the city

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COME VISIT US AT PITTI UOMO: PADIGLIONE DELLA GHIAIA, FLORENCE. AT SEEK: H9 C45. AT WHO’S NEXT: IMPACT ZONE.

centre’s appeal and delight. So any brand that wants to maintain a physical space in the city centre has to really think about very distinctive, exclusive elements which can only be offered there.

Does that mean consumption will become a side effect of the overall experience in a city centre?

Susanne Tide-Frater: Yes. And yet, even now, many stores still have that notion of turnover per square metre, which kills them. I find that surprising. After all, anything you do in a physical space will translate in turnover eventually, but that is not directly linked to the actual retail space. And if retailers and brands do not start thinking very differently about this, their retail will be dead. This is why big chain stores no longer exist in city centres, as I just observed on London’s Oxford Street. These stores have nothing to offer that goes beyond what could be bought online.

Raphael Gielgen: And by the way, if you only offer an average or mediocre experience, then convenience is the driving force. Like ordering food: you only want to have food, and someone brings it to your house. That is not experience, just convenience.

Susanne Tide-Frater: Exactly. Sure, convenience is a strong driver. On the other hand, is not convenience also the killer of creativity?

Raphael Gielgen: No! Because there are people who do not care about creativity and experience. They just want convenience. Just like some people want to consume what you would consider junk food.

And we have to deal with it.

Raphael Gielgen: Yeah, sure. And there is this idea of big brands serving several social milieus, but even that is over. You have to have an attitude, you have to be clear and really precise about who you are, what you produce, and what you want to offer as a service, as a product. If you do that well, you have a message. And if

you have a message, you have the content for omnichannel. But if you do not know who you are, if you have no position: game over.

How does the rediscovered focus on local products and on cultural connection, as opposed to the earlier utilisation of globalisation, fit into the trends you are observing, Raphael?

Raphael Gielgen: I think that aspect has been existing for a long while, out of several perspectives. One perspective could be driven by authenticity. Another perspective could be driven by sustainability. Another one could mean supporting your local community.

Susanne Tide-Frater: It is not all about small and local artisans, however. One aspect of this is suppressed culture, and I think that is another opportunity. A redefinition of culture has to be underway, as the global Kardashian magma is hardly going to interest anybody in a few years. Culture, identity, community, and small initiatives are going to be emotionally important for this generation.

Raphael Gielgen: But in the end, these kinds of activities are comparatively small. I, too, love the “buy local” movement, but that could never solve our issues and serve our demand. If we all started to really focus on local products only, we would have to face massive economic questions and problems. Globalisation, on the other hand, was a good idea, but we turned it into modern colonialism. We, the developed countries, tried to generate the highest profits by getting cheap labour, cheap energy et cetera elsewhere. Sure, we also brought some progress and prosperity to these countries, but that was not the idea behind globalisation.

But do we not see right now that our economy has to change anyway, for pragmatic reasons?

Raphael Gielgen: Yeah, sure. I think the best example is what Patagonia has done. An economical change towards future markets full of opportunity for everyone means a change of both the system and its actors. It is like learning a new language: new grammar, new phonetics, new words. It is totally different. I would say in 10 or 15 years, 30 or 35 percent of companies will be part of a Patagonia style economic system. And leading business schools like University of St. Gallen or MIT Sloan in Boston will teach this approach. Will this still be a market economy?

i thiNK What iS haPPeNiNG NOW iS a StRUGGLe BetWeeN ViSiON aND RiSK aWaReNeSS, BetWeeN ReBeLS aND BaLaNCe SheetS, aND BetWeeN LeaDeRS aND maNaGeRS.

Raphael Gielgen

Raphael Gielgen: Yes, it will be one, but with different mathematics. The way we work now seems to change cities, too. In London and in Frankfurt, whole districts are changing because people do not go to their offices like they used to. What is this new way of life doing to city centres as former epicentres of daily life?

Raphael Gielgen: I think there is no single answer to that question. If you talk about financial districts, yeah, financial districts are dead. But not every city is driven by financial businesses. Paris, for example, will always be a vibrant, energised, and liveable city because the code of Paris is different compared to Frankfurt and London. Or look at Helsinki: it is only a small city, but I honestly believe Helsinki will be fine, because it has given itself a purpose beyond business and offices. Cities have to think about their future from the future’s perspective, not from today’s perspective. They will fail if they start designing their future from their status quo, trying to reinvent themselves within the limitations of what already exists. That will never guide us to a kind of preferred future. Instead, we have to jump into the year 2032 or 2035 and think about what will exist then, and how that could help us redefine who we are. From our future city’s perspective, what are our key activities? Why do they feel authentic to us? Why does this have value for every citizen? And who is a partner of this ecosystem, be it culture, business, or education?

Susanne Tide-Frater: Very, very well said, Raphael. Now, I know Birmingham City Council very well from my work with Selfridges there in 2004. And I would say that these people do not necessarily have the educational background to think that way. How would you tackle this? How would you advise a city council?

Raphael Gielgen: I would say they may not be trained in broadening their view. But designing the future from the future is not an intellectual approach, it is a hack. So, I would advise them to surround

maNy StOReS StiLL haVe that NOtiON Of tURNOVeR PeR SQUaRe metRe, WhiCh KiLLS them

Susanne tide-frater

Floris van Bommel 9th generation shoemaker since 1734

themselves with insights which already exist and then, to get out of this frame, describe the impact before creating a map of actions. If they start to design the future from the future, they will come up with an image and get people involved who never wanted to be involved before. Are we now talking about a reinvention of democracy, too?

Raphael Gielgen: If you want to call it that. I, however, would not. It makes this approach seem much heavier and more difficult to understand.

Susanne Tide-Frater: What we are saying is that, actually, it is not about retail as such, but it is about regenerating the purpose of city centres.

Do you both think that politics, government, or legislation should be more influential in this transformation process?

Raphael Gielgen: I am not a fan of regulating everything through taxes. Sure, due to our resource situation, most of our lives must become circular. Not tomorrow, but in the near future. But I think giving guidance through a broader vision will create turning points, rather than giving guidance through permission and taxes. But do you think a critical mass of people will change their behaviour driven by purpose alone?

Raphael Gielgen: Not overnight, no. Just look at big fashion retail platforms’ share prices. These are an important indicator of which path our industry will and will not take. We are now entering a phase with lower consumption in major parts of the world. And this is an opportunity. We know that people are rethinking what they do and are starting to change course, but this takes time.

Susanne Tide-Frater: I agree, but that will not come from politics. It will be due to pressure by the generations of the future and by wise companies. Admittedly, there are not a lot of them. Having a sustainability officer is just a patch. Political solutions face the problem that representatives in a city council are elected for only a very short period of time. So they are not prone to long-term plans. That is why I think the solution will only become political if there is pressure.

Raphael Gielgen: I have a good example. The real estate industry in Europe is faced with ESG requirements. These requirements clash with older buildings, where the landlords never invested in upgrades

like insulation, energy efficiency, and so on. By now those upgrades have become too expensive, so these buildings turn into stranded assets, because large corporations do not want to invest in loans or other activities in this part of real estate. And that shows you how a market regulates itself. What does that all mean for the role of city centres in the near future? Should retail be afraid?

Raphael Gielgen: (laughs) I do not believe that all the players and stakeholders in the retail business are asleep at the wheel. They know about the current situation, and they know what lies ahead of them. I think what is happening now is a struggle between vision and risk awareness, between rebels and balance sheets, and between leaders and managers. We will see who will succeed.

Susanne Tide-Frater: I think pure retailers will struggle unless they become a company. I do not want to use the term “brand”. And I think a lot of them will not have the market intelligence and vision to succeed. That is necessary to regenerate not only a retail scene, but an architectural environment that houses many, many other things. I think there are plenty of opportunities for those who really want to succeed. But not without, as Raphael phrased it, shaping the future by looking into the future.

SUSaNNe

tiDe-fRateR

In a nod to her formal education, Susanne Tide-Frater refers to herself as an archaeologist of the future. As a sought-after retail consultant, she has a track record running from rejuvenating UK department dinosaurs Harrods and Selfridges to overlooking augmented retail at digital disruptor Farfetch.

RaPhaeL GieLGeN

Trend Scout Future of Work Life and Learn: That is Raphael Gielgen’s title at Swiss furniture design legend Vitra. Officially, he lives on a sustainable farm near Regensburg, but, in reality, he spends most of the year on the road, visiting cities around the globe to observe the most exciting developments.

ACTUALLY NEEDS WHAT WE SELL”

André Maeder has no interest in joining the lament about the demise of department stores, least of all when talking about the luxury segment. As CEO of KaDeWe Group, Maeder enjoys deep insight into the operations of KaDeWe in Berlin, Oberpollinger in Munich, and Alsterhaus in Hamburg. Instead of worrying about this portfolio, he celebrates KaDeWe’s 115th birthday and the Grand Opening while announcing the unveiling of two new luxury department stores over the next two years: first CarschHaus in Düsseldorf, then Lamarr in Vienna. In this interview, he explains where this optimism stems from, but also how radically the expectations of customers have changed. Of course, Maeder has a plan.

Interview: Stephan Huber.

Text: Petrina Engelke. Photos: KaDeWe

However, the marketplace no longer exists in physical form only, but is also omni-channel - or phygital, to use the current modern term. Is the biggest challenge for retailers to understand when and where customers want to be reached?

Mr Maeder, KaDeWe Group seems to be in no doubt that city centres and their retail environments have a future as places to live and experience. Why exactly are you so optimistic?

André Maeder: We firmly believe that city centres are the marketplaces of both the past and the present, especially their large department stores. In our case, this means luxury department stores, yet I think that any modern inner-city department store has its justification if it is properly utilised. Of course, a department store is also a place to buy jumpers, socks, or cups, but at its core it is a place of experience, like the traditional marketplace of old. People used to come to the city from surrounding villages to see things they had never experienced, sensed, smelled, or felt before. A department store can play that part – it has in the past, and it still does today. And I am absolutely certain that the city centre is enormously important for a society, not merely in the largest cities of Germany and Europe. It is all about experience: from the cinema to the gallery, from the restaurant to the flower shop.

Absolutely! The key is to understand customers and their individual wishes as precisely as possible. That has always been the case at our level, though. It has simply gained in complexity. I fear the future will be difficult for those who merely sell goods. I always argue that nobody actually needs what we sell. This statement is, of course, a tad ironic or even provocative. Yet it should be taken seriously, as what we sell is an attitude to life. Or rather, we provide an attitude towards life that you do not necessarily have to pay for. You can simply stroll through KaDeWe, take in the atmosphere of the shop, especially now during the Christmas season, and leave in high spirits. Or you might visit to watch beautiful people or meet friends. Naturally, this marketplace has a very different meaning today. Yet, in my mind, its significance lies first and foremost in being a meeting place, in seeing-and-being-seen, and in experiencing.

Where does this firm belief that, regardless of society’s digitisation, the desire for physical experience will not only remain, but perhaps even increase, stem from?

If the whole world were always online and engaged in e-commerce, we would practically die out. Everyone would hang out at home, completely isolated. The new working environment highlights what we lack, even though partial home office has become the

“NOBODY

norm. People appreciate this freedom, but, at the same time, they still want to interact with their colleagues. Humans are social beings. The modern customer is no longer merely king in theory, but can get everything they want, whenever and wherever they want it. How does that affect you from a strategic point of view?

We will adapt once more, or more precisely: further develop our strengths. Over the last seven years, we have implemented our “Luxury Up” strategy at all three locations. In doing so, we aspired to market leadership in product selection throughout Germany, and we now stock the most important interna-

tional brands in every segment – not only in fashion and shoes, but also in food, home, and beauty. That was incredibly important, not least because it clarified our positioning even better. The next step is to focus even more sharply and individually on our customers. We call it customer centricity. How do you lay the foundations for this customer centricity?

First and foremost, through conversations with customers and analyses. This allows us to get to know them even better and to respond to their wishes in a more purposeful manner, without casting a glaring spotlight on them. We learn so much from this inter-

André Maeder knows international (luxury) department stores like the back of his hand. After holding positions at Harrods and Hugo Boss, among others, the Swiss native has been CEO of KaDeWe Group and President of Intercontinental Group of Department Stores since 2014.

active exchange at eye level. Our industry has the great advantage of directly communicating with its customers. We see what they buy, and we can test what they like or dislike. Of course we organise forums, interviews, and so on. Yet we also seek feedback in normal, everyday conversations with salespeople. That is one of the most important assets we have. The role of sales assistants, to deliberately use this almost frowned-upon term, appears to be undergoing a complete redefinition. How does KaDeWe Group approach this issue?

First of all, I believe that salespeople have always been equally important, especially in the luxury segment in which we operate. A bag for 5,000 Euros or more does not sell easily. You cannot afford to get nervous about touching such an expensive bag. This confidence provides a foundation. However, I also believe that the sales team has to move with the times, as does the customer. Today’s customers are extremely well informed. That is why it is very important that salespeople are just as well informed. In other words, they need to visit restaurants and clubs, and they need social media competence. They need to know the world they represent at the point of sale. In my opinion, things tend to become complicated when you have a team that does not live the lifestyle you sell at all. I do not mean in terms of money, but more in terms of mindset. Secondly, and no less importantly, we as a company, but above all society as a whole, should afford this profession the status and prestige it deserves. The sales profession has a completely different status in America or England than in Germany, Austria, or Switzerland. That status is what we should aspire to. When that happens, far more young people than at present will consider a career in retail. Not as a plan B, but as a plan A. How easy or difficult is it for you to recruit at the moment?

We are doing alright, to be honest. Being a European group helps us in this respect, at least beyond a certain level. After all, if we hire new management trainees, department heads, or buyers now, they have greatly increased their career prospects. My personal experience tells me that there are exactly two industries in the world in which you can carve out an incredible career very quickly: the hotel industry and the retail industry. Some hotel managers and general managers of department stores are in their early 30s, which is not the norm in other industries. I do perceive that as an incentive for ambitious talent. However, that will barely interest a salesperson. Finding the right people will perhaps be the most crucial challenge of the

next decade. The solution is related to career opportunities, remuneration, and well-being embedded in the job.

With Carsch-Haus in Düsseldorf and Lamarr in Vienna, you have announced two spectacular new openings for the coming years. What are the most significant USPs of these houses?

The most important aspect is always the very individual positioning of each house. We are not a chain. Our customers perceive us as KaDeWe, Oberpollinger, Alsterhaus, soon Carsch-Haus, and, starting autumn 2024, Lamarr in Vienna. That in itself is a fantastic USP. Our department stores have plenty of local spirit. At Lamarr, for example, we will feature six restaurants on the sixth floor, all run by Viennese restaurateurs. KaDeWe has already taught us how important it is to incorporate local gastronomy into the premises. This local colour reinforces the connection to the city and customers enormously. This applies to both local and international customers, by the way. How is this local colour reflected in the fashion departments?

In Berlin, for example, we have established close partnerships with local designers, and we are looking forward to working with Austrian brands in Vienna as well. We also deliberately seek out small, local manufacturers who may not yet enjoy international prominence, as they are capable of delivering additional excitement and surprise. We do not merely maintain this strong local connection in our product ranges. Our store in Hamburg, for instance, has a completely different look and feel than its Munich counterpart, if only in terms of colour palette. These cities are separated by 1,000 kilometres, which is manifested in a different shopping behaviour. I am convinced that this local design and emphasis will become even more relevant in the future.

You have announced that Carsch-Haus and Lamarr will set new standards in terms of hybrid experience and point of sale digitisation. What does that specifically entail?

It goes without saying that we are not willing to reveal all secrets just yet. However, I can confirm that they will be the most digital department stores in the world. By that we do not mean that there are screens showing some fashion show on every corner. To provide a very concrete example, customers will be informed about product availability via their mobile phones. RFID technology makes it possible to see how many units of a certain jumper are available in which colours, in the shop or in the e-commerce warehouse of KaDeWe Group, by simply holding a

mobile phone up to a jumper while using the corresponding app. The payment process will also be carried out via smartphone, consistently throughout the entire store. There is this rather awkward moment at the checkout, you know? You spend some money, have to wait, and then you are suddenly served, and perhaps even processed, by someone completely different, after having received excellent, personal advice from your salesperson for an hour beforehand. We strive to improve this experience in the future.

We both hail from the analogue era, so to speak. How has the role of department stores evolved within the urban ecosystem when you look back on your time at Harrods?

At first glance, not so much has changed. KaDeWe, Selfridges, Harrods, and Lafayette remain beacons in large international metropolises. Each of them has its own individual appeal to visitors. Yet on the one hand, these visitors have become even more international compared to the past, and on the other hand, they navigate the city in a completely different way. They no longer travel by car, especially in Berlin. They arrive by scooter or bike, causing less traffic. This has changed the atmosphere of the city. Moreover, the time customers spend in the store has increased. They stay much longer now, on average approximately two hours. In turn, this has completely transformed customer expectations. For example, a house like ours is expected to take sustainability seriously. We stopped using plastic bags seven years ago and have not included fur in our product range for ten years. Today, we are expected to focus on energy. Lamarr in Vienna, for instance, will generate most of the electricity it consumes from solar panels. The possibilities are unlimited. Once you have embraced this topic as a company, you quickly realise its potential – not least from an economical point of view. Future customers will increasingly base their decisions on such criteria. This fundamental change will affect city centres as a whole. We should recognise this as an opportunity!

City O P EN

We owe the structure of our city centres to developments of the late 1960s. All activities were strictly divided into zones: driving, shopping, housing, living. This led to the creation of pedestrian zones, main arteries trimmed for efficiency with no space for respite. A legacy that is currently being broken up by a new trend: polycentrism in the sense of coexistence of several neighbourhoods and their respective hubs. Versatility and diversification replace single-variety zones. The eclectic mix of hospitality, culture, living, and retail is drawing nature and people back into the city centre. City planners, shop consultants, and retail enthusiasts explain why this development can be a holistic approach to bring about sustainable change. They provide us with the best examples of European cities that are implementing innovative ideas to bring together what belongs together: People and their cities.

Text: Petrina Engelke, Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek, Isabel Faiss, Rüdiger Oberschür, Nicoletta Schaper. Fotos: Nicky Bouwmeester, Amélie Dupont

The answer to the question of which city best represents a modern city centre is Paris. Vibrant neighbourhoods with local offerings are fuelled by a policy of intentional blending backed by public offices, associations, and programmes. Last September, the Tranoï trade fair and Paris Fashion Week recorded the highest number of visitors in a long time. The capital of fashion is the incubator for a new school of thought in fashion retail.

PARIS Together Showroom Blueprint of Blending

Rafael Jiménez presented his latest project, Together Showroom, at the start of Paris Fashion Week and Tranoï last September. The aim of the Plan 8 agency owner is to create an experiential space in his showroom where buyers, artists, musicians, journalists, and key industry players come together to discover, buy, and network with new brands. In this interview, Jiménez explains why the time was ripe for Together Showroom.

Rafael, with Together Showroom you have created an idea of how the fashion industry can implement its offering within a high-quality lifestyle environment. Could this be a new blueprint for fashion retailers?

Rafael Jiménez, owner of Plan 8: Together Showroom aims to explore new ways of creating a Paris showcase that allows brands to garner attention, create reputation, and generate sales. Our project will develop layers over time. Because of its exploratory and disruptive nature, we are, of course, considering how we can create new models of cooperation with retailers or improve the attractiveness of selected brands.

Is there a specific project or decision that differentiates the Paris retail scene from other European cities?

In this respect, we need to thank the mayor of Paris, who has devised very assertive initiatives to keep the city liveable and human. Companies like Semaest, for instance, help small businesses access retail space

Rafael Jiménez, Plan 8

to diversify what's being offered, thus creating an array of different enterprises that make a city liveable: bookshops, art galleries, restaurants, cafés, and basically everything else that keeps culture and community alive. From the perspective of our industry, Paris is the indisputable centre of fashion. I believe this status rests on two facts. Firstly, it has always been that way. Secondly, it remains an organic development. Brands come here to show, sell, and build a reputation. The Federation of Haute Couture and PAP run the fashion show calendars. Yet given that more than 7,000 brands showcase their products in Paris, it is a self-regulating ecosystem ruled by supply and demand.

Together Showroom has created the perfect environment for its clients featuring the brand portfolio of Plan 8 agency, lifestyle magazine Double Magazin, artist Richard Torry, and Web 3.0 community platform New Foundation.

“Our showcase is destined to offer an alternative to brands who do not show at Paris Fashion Week to create interest, raise profiles, and attract business.”

MILAN

Giancarlo Tancredi

What will Milan look like in 2030? From the Magnifica Fabbrica della Scala in Rubattino to the BEIC, many major projects are in planning that will change the face of this Italian city. This urban revitalisation will cost no less than 13 billion Euros. Giancarlo Tancredi is a city council member responsible for Milan’s urban renewal. He agreed to share his thoughts on the urban revolution and polycentrism with style in progress. Photo:

Magnifica Fabbrica

Major changes are coming to Milan, tell us more...

Giancarlo Tancredi, Milan city council member: This revitalisation is based on the desire and the need to move away from the mono centrism of the city. We need new hubs on the outskirts of the city and in individual neighbourhoods. This process started in Milan with projects such as City Life and Porta Nuova and will gain enormous momentum in the coming years, with the 2026 Winter Olympics in mind. We have been working on the Palaitalia for the Olympic Games since autumn 2022, and then the European Library BEIC, which has been anticipated for more than twenty years, will finally be renovated. Other major projects include FILI, a high line and park that will stretch the entire

Giancarlo Tancredi, a Milan city council member, played a significant role in urban development projects such as City Life.

length of Milano Cadorna station. Then there is the Magnifica Fabbrica della Scala in Rubattino and the new campus in Bovisa. All this is made possible in Milan due to the collaboration of private investors and the public administration. How much say do private investors have?

The interplay of private and institutional investments has a historical tradition in Milan and has become economically indispensable. Urban development is regulated by strict conditions, which makes it all the more important to ensure that the dialogue between private and public sectors remains alive with scope for negotiation. This is the sole reason why Milan has become attractive to international investors, especially over the last two years. It is a very competitive city that has plenty to offer, on top of events such as the Expo or the upcoming Winter Games.

How do you encourage the younger generation to return to the city centre?

As I said earlier, we in Milan believe in many small centres – in polycentrism. Even here, in these new hubs outside the centre, it is essential to remain attractive, both socially and economically. You need to offer culture, recreational programmes, and shopping opportunities, and couple all that with fair rents and property prices. Social housing is definitely an important issue for a city like Milan.

“We Need To Move Away From the Mono-Centrism of the City”

BEIC is a monumental project involving the regeneration of the European Library.

Milan/BEIC

BEIC stands for Biblioteca Europea di Informazione e Cultura (European Library of Information and Culture). It is not only an architectural component of Milan’s modern face, but it is also the first library in Italy with the ambition to be the perfect blend of public lending and research library in its overall structure. The new building will provide a pleasant atmosphere for citizens of all ages in an environment specifically designed for reading, learning, reflecting, writing, and sharing the processes of learning and cultural growth with others. The contract for this project was awarded to Onsitestudio under the direction of Angelo Raffaele Lunati. The six-storey BEIC will be located in the Porta Vittoria district and extend over a total area of 30,000 square metres.

Milan/Magnifica Fabbrica

The ambitious Magnifica Fabbrica project, the new workshops and depots of La Scala Theatre in Rubattino, was not conceived by star architects, but by Massimo Giuliani and Pablo Luis Oriol Salgado in collaboration with a young, multidisciplinary team. It consists of a single, enormous building complex made of steel and wood with a surface area of 66,000 square metres, which will house all workshops, rehearsal rooms, tailor shops, warehouses, and a “Spazio dei sogni” (translated: room of dreams). The building shell comprises recycled, solid polycarbonate and a photovoltaic roof, making it a zero-energy building. The circumjacent Lambretta Park, doubled to an area of 100,000 square metres, is a genuine nature reserve featuring lawns, orchards, water gardens, and constructed wetlands.

Green spaces are an important design feature of Magnifica Fabbrica della Scala.

Magnifica Fabbrica della Scala is being constructed in the Rubattino district.

MANNHEIM

Next Mannheim A City

Committed

to Innovation

Mannheim is famous for its consistency. This is reflected in the square layout of the city centre, as well as in the determination to pursue projects in a holistic, sustainable, and energetic manner. The declared goal is innovation. Under the Next Mannheim umbrella brand, the city bundles its vision of a start-up ecosystem dedicated to urban development, internationalisation, and the cultural and creative industries.

MÜNSTER

Weitkamp/Schnitzler “A Place To Exist”

For several months, 80 outdoor chairs invited people to relax on the cathedral square in Münster – where people usually park their cars. This initiative was launched by Andreas Weitkamp, owner of Modehaus Schnitzler.

Andreas, what does a city need to offer to attract people in the future?

Andreas Weitkamp, owner of Modehaus Schnitzler und Weitkamp: We were keen to get to the bottom of this question in cooperation with Initiative starke Innenstadt and Münster Marketing. In Münster, too, such places are in short supply. And so we experimented with a seating area where people could simply exist, without the pressure of having to consume something. Nobody visits the city centre to buy a blue jumper anymore. Instead, it requires several incentives to make a visit worthwhile: gastronomy, hotels, retail, and places where one enjoys spending time. We witnessed how important this is on the cathedral square. People sat down to chat with each other, and young parents picnicked with their children. Initiatives like this make the city more attractive, which also benefits us retailers.

During Mannheim Music Week, the city initiates concerts and events in unusual places – even in shop windows.

In October 2021, Textilerei launched Hometown Glory in a two-storey space within the Q6Q7 shopping district in Mannheim’s city centre.

Textilerei/Mannheim Hometown Glory

For its pop-up store Hometown Glory, which was initially launched in 2021 in a temporary space at Modehaus Engelhorn, Gründungszentrum Textilerei collaborates closely with local retailers.

“Our fundamental goal is to utilise this format to occupy temporary vacancies within the city centre and to enhance quality. In the meantime, however, we have noticed that property owners contact us specifically to discuss temporary vacancies. There is definitely still room for improvement though. We firmly believe that it still requires a comprehensive rethink in order to have a positive impact on the cityscape,” says Nico Hoffmeister, Community Manager at Textilerei and initiator of Hometown Glory.

Münster replaced parking spaces on its cathedral square with an outdoor seating area for 80 people. Photo: Münster Marketing, Ralf Emmerich

Photos: Textilerei, Mannheim Music Week

FRANKFURT

Massif Central/ The Sooner Now “Things Always Turn Out Differently Than You Think”

Massif Central strives to be considered a creative centre – a place to linger, featuring a bar, studio, shop, showroom, open office, and lifestyle hub – that feels like an independent bubble in the heart of Frankfurt’s nine-to-five business district. It feels somewhat alien here. An advantage that owner Florian Jöckel refers to as barrier-free, as everyone from business lawyers to bicycle couriers meest to simply enjoy a good time.

Photos: The Sooner Now, Andreas Henn

Massif Central is a social meeting point: a kiosk featuring a gallery, a trendy bar featuring a bicycle workshop, a canteen featuring public viewing, office spaces, a showroom for fashion and art, and a store for everything related to cycling.

Florian, how important is it for Frankfurt’s city centre to have a place like Massif Central?

Florian Jöckel, owner of Massif Central: Frankfurt is a compact business city, so all the bars are still empty at 6pm. As a result, and above all because of property prices, creative uses of real estate are almost impossible. Maybe Massif Central struck a chord precisely because no one thought it possible to create this kind of space in the city centre. I have been an active member of associations exclusively dedicated to urban development, including the Bahnhofsviertel, for many years. That is how Sven Seipp and I have gained a certain standing and people in Frankfurt know who we are. Ever since Massif Central’s success, we are regularly approached by everyone: real estate developers who have temporary vacancies, companies, and networkers. We have evolved into an interface and a place

of exchange, which enables us to have an impact far beyond the initial boundaries of the project. We are attracting the interest of the public, the municipality, and the industry as a whole.

Massif Central houses pretty much everything that sounds exciting, from tattoo studios to kitchen clubs. You yourself call it a walk-in experience. Is this multidimensional augmentation an effective way to revitalise the retail sector in the city centre?

A store is still the coolest place to be, as long as you can imbue it with emotion and design it exactly the way you envisage. Given present tariffs and rents, however, this is no longer feasible in isolation. I believe that partnerships are the way forward. In this respect, I think concepts that complement each other in terms of content, creating customer frequency and breaking down boundaries, are definitely the future.

The conference format The Sooner Now, developed by Mini and Zeit Magazin, has been touring German cities with discussion rounds on future urban mobility for three years. When Massif Central opened in June 2021, The Sooner Now was the first to visit. Owner Florian Jöckel (far left) explained his concept to combat vacancies in the city centre.

NEW YORK

One Wall Street/Printemps

The area surrounding the New York Stock Exchange was exclusively devoted to the financial industry for a long time. This is where, of all places, French luxury department store Printemps has decided to set up an American branch with more than 5,000 square metres of sales area. The superlatives are imposing, even in hard-to-impress New York. The walls and ceiling of the ten-metre-high space are adorned with a red and gold Art Deco mosaic by Hildreth Meière that few New Yorkers have ever laid eyes on. Up until 2015, this is where the richest clients of an investment bank were counselled. Soon, the space will be occupied by international luxury fashion. The appropriate clientele is basically delivered free of charge. Featuring 556 luxury condominiums, One Wall Street is the largest office-to-residential conversion project in the history of New York. Ironically, desks still play a major role. The developers have factored in the shift towards home offices triggered by the pandemic, by providing a coworking space with conference rooms in the building. Photos: Thomas-Halaczinsky, Printemps

With a scheduled opening at One Wall Street in spring 2024, Printemps is betting on a neighbourhood in transition that attracts tourists and residents alike.

Open Restaurants/ Open Streets

New York Street Theatre

Less than 50 percent of New Yorkers own a car, which suggests the city should be perfect for pedestrians. Yet strolling and lingering is unthinkable. Manhattan’s wide pavements are as busy as a motorway. All the more astonishing that New Yorkers have recently started eating, drinking, and hanging out on the street – while seated. This radical shift stems from lockdowns during the pandemic: New York’s desperate restaurant industry moved outside. Emergency permits issued by the city transformed car parks into street cafés. These open restaurants, creatively sealed off from vehicular traffic, also benefit the surrounding retail trade. As soon as the atmosphere improves, the storefronts receive more attention. Simultaneously, New York is expanding its open streets. Selected streets are transformed – at least temporarily – into linear parks where residents can exercise, stroll, and picnic. Although the focus lies on residential areas, vehicles are occasionally banned from streets lined with retail spaces, at least on weekends. Here, neighbourhood initiatives frequently become involved and organise programmes that attract considerable crowds. Initially, however, it is mainly small entrepreneurs, more mobile than the resident retailers, who are hoping for new trade opportunities on these open streets. They are envisaging market stalls, where they can test new designs, attract attention, and gain followers. However, regular markets are still merely conceptual.

The street cafés also encountered resistance: some residents mourned the loss of every parking space, while others complained about noise and the threat of rat infestations.

Deceleration on New York’s sidewalks: the pandemic has fuelled the outdoor dining trend. In one of the world’s most hectic city centres, walk-in shoppers finally have time to look at shop windows again.

Umdasch The Store Makers

A Plea for Tolerance and Uncontrolled Growth

Umdasch Shop Consult Director Maik Drewitz views multiple, smaller districts with individual hubs as the greatest opportunity for the future of the city centre.

Photos: NSDM, Umdasch

Mr Drewitz, why is a district superior to a city centre?

Maik Drewitz, Umdasch Shop Consult Director: District hubs exemplify how to rethink city centres by creating a mix of culture, gastronomy, recreational quality, and retail – in short: places where people of all ages enjoy spending time. The mix increases customer frequency. This not only applies to the city centre, but to every urban environment concept. It creates lively centres with an authentic life of their own.

A life of its own sounds like the antithesis of urban planning...

To me, the best example of how healthy it is for a city to allow individual districts to develop autonomously without major intervention is the NSDM shipyard in Amsterdam Noord, located behind the central station. The ferry crossing is free of charge, and it drops you off in a district that has been embraced by the young art scene. In terms of urban planning, building student residences there was a stroke of genius, because the young people add a corresponding flair. The mix of restaurants, clubs, art halls, retail, studios, and sustainable housing makes Amsterdam Noord more exciting and trendier than the old town.

What does a city need in order to foster such further development?

It needs a tolerance for uncontrolled growth. Let people do their thing. The process always starts with people who

wish to shape their district into something special. Such neighbourhoods harbour enormous potential, as they maintain a very authentic community, and generic growth aligns supply and demand perfectly. I consider this to be of utmost importance for the future.

On a more granular level, what will a store in such a district resemble?

It resembles a meeting place with an experiential character that extends far beyond consumption. Meaningful additional services extend the pure selling time. Event shopping in particular is something I view as a huge trend that can be combined with sales via social media channels through flexible opening hours and hybrid models. People no longer visit a store to merely buy something. They come to meet people and enjoy themselves. After all, people who visit a restaurant are not there to simply fill their stomachs.

The miracle of the shipyard. The municipality allowed the transformation of the former shipyard site of Amsterdam Noord to develop organically without major intervention. A stroke of genius, according to Umdasch Shop Consult Director Maik Drewitz.

EuroShop 2023

“A Place of Unintentional Encounters”

The EuroShop retail trade fair, which takes place from the 26th of February to the 2nd of March 2023, dedicates two special areas to the future of city centres and the role retail has to play. Professor Sabine Krieg from Düsseldorf University of Applied Sciences is curating the Retail Ball Game area and Frank Rehme, co-founder of the Vitail Competence Forum, the Future Urban Lab. Two experimental, interactive areas that invite visitors to reflect and participate. Photos: EuroShop

Future Urban Lab

Mr Rehme, you created the Future Urban Lab. What does the future hold?

Frank Rehme, co-founder of Vitail: Consumption alone is no longer a visit criterion for many people, especially not for the young target group. The city centre of tomorrow is increasingly transforming into a place of unintentional encounters. If there are retailers, then they are owner-managed specialists. Crafts and manufactories should also make their way back into the city centre, as should sports clubs and leisure activities. A city centre must reflect the needs of its inhabitants.

In which areas do you perceive a backlog?

Definitely in the area of generating visibility in the digital space, as online marketing is absolutely essential. Yet you also need the right infrastructure in the store, such as merchandise and customer management systems. Instead of converting your customers

into fans, show them that you are a fan of theirs. Online trade is not responsible for the decline of trade in city centres. More than 80 percent of retail sales are still generated in stationary stores. In this context, the competition debate seems like shadow boxing and distracts from the real problem: the fact that brick-andmortar retail has a lot of catching up to do in terms of concept and, above all, digitisation.

“The Retail Ball Game affords EuroShop the opportunity to initiate conversations among the most diverse players in the industry, free from profit pressures, and to explore problems, points of view, and completely new perspectives.”

Sabine Krieg

Retail Ball Game

Professor Krieg, you are curating one of the two central areas at EuroShop 2023. What exactly is the Retail Ball Game?

Sabine Krieg, Düsseldorf University of Applied Sciences: The Retail Ball Game allows interested parties from all fields to create a better network playfully and symbolically. This is achieved through open communication and the critical examination of future-relevant challenges.

What do you consider the challenges of making our city centres and urban spaces (more) attractive in the long term?

For many years it was assumed that the problems of the city centres were caused by technical progress. However, the causes for recent developments in the stationary retail trade are more socio-cultural in nature.

“We invite EuroShop visitors to transform concrete examples into solutions that inspire people to return to the city centre.”

Frank Rehme

A milestone for Muse & Heroine founder Janine Knizia: the smart entrepreneur has transformed a flat in Paris into the epicentre of her beauty and good-living universe.

eclectic mix of styles that reveals much about Janine Knizia’s tastes: California, Leo patterns, and minimal chic.

The Healing House of Muse & Heroine

Superwoman’s Sanctuary

A highflyer touches down in Paris. Janine Knizia launched her online platform Muse & Heroine in 2020, turning her passion for holistic, conscious living into a business model. The dedicated founder shares her love of clean beauty, conscious nutrition, a healthy lifestyle, and holistic products with her community. The Healing House of Muse & Heroine in Paris lives up to its reputation as a destination of international standing. Located on the second floor of a historic Haussmann building in the heart of the Marais district, the new spot is a milestone for founder Janine Knizia. Several pop-ups during Fashion Week have already proved how effectively Muse & Heroine can operate on a stationary basis. Inspired by California, The Healing House of Muse & Heroine relies on furniture icons and a modular space concept that leaves room for everything, including treatments, masterclasses, and launch events.

The Healing House of Muse & Heroine, Paris/France, www.museandheroine.com

An

ARIVE “We Are the Virtual City Centre”

One technology, a thousand possibilities: Arive creates virtual city centres that are designed to strengthen local shopping diversity. Chief Commercial Officer Stephanie Vehrenkemper sat down for a chat with style in progress.

Interview: Martina Müllner. Text: Veronika Zangl. Photos: Arive

What is Arive aspiring to evolve into? A locally supported marketplace or an e-commerce player in its own right?

Arive is a brand-to-consumer API that grants brands and retailers access to a virtual city centre with its own delivery service. This means our technology acts as a marketplace without us acting as a retailer ourselves.

What is the focus of Arive’s expansion strategy: direct business with brands or cooperation with local retailers?

Both, in equal measure. Collaborating with brands enables connected retail to permeate to the extent that the user experience actually feels like a virtual replica of what a real city centre offers. Think of it as an attempt to provide a virtual stage for an inner-city retail mix. We cater for a premium niche, mind you. We strive to make the best products of a city available, be it via brand or retailer.

What benefits does Arive offer its partners?

We offer an interface that increases floor space productivity and generates turnover quickly. On average, the integration process takes seven to fourteen days. In some cases, if an API is already connected to the store’s systems, the process can take as little as twenty-four hours. End customers receive the delivery within two hours or within a time slot of their choosing. Our mission is to make the shopping experience guilt-free. We eliminate what usually

makes customers feel bad about themselves. For example, we do not tolerate exploitative working conditions for delivery drivers. We do not want them to feel like they have to run a red light. We deliver with e-cargos and e-bikes, and plan routes in a manner that is economically efficient for the drivers. We strive to rid the city centre of delivery vans, to prevent parcels from taking long detours via hubs beyond the centres. We aim to save the customer a trip to the city while still giving them an opportunity to support local retailers.

Which cities are on the expansion roadmap?

We hope to expand into other major European cities in 2023. We are currently active in Berlin, Munich, Hamburg, and Paris. The next destinations are fairly obvious. However, we do not select the next cities solely based on size. Other metrics, such as lifestyle brand affinity, are equally important to us. Is Arive an intermediary or an enabler? Definitely an enabler. We maintain a warehouse in the city centre that has nothing in common with typical dark stores. We stock items for our partners that are frequently bought outside the business hours of these stores, or products from brand partners who do not have sufficient regional warehousing capacity. However, this tends to be the exception. The principle involves a customer finding an item on Arive, we pick it up at the store in question, and then make that person very happy with fast, frictionless delivery.

Arive strives to depict a virtual city centre, highlighting the positive aspects of inner-city commerce. Part of this approach is that warehouses located in the cities that Arive serves are not dark stores.

As Chief Commercial Officer, Stephanie Vehrenkemper has been involved with Arive from the very beginning. Acting as an API and tech-driven enabler, the Munich-based start-up aspires to guide inner-city retail into the future with short delivery times and curated assortments.

Siam Discovery in Bangkok no longer has traditional departments. Instead, it features labs on various themes such as Her Lab and His Lab, Street Lab, Digital Lab, Creative Lab, Ecotopia, and Play Lab. This is the Fight for the Future campaign, a phygital Thai boxing studio that combines physical boxing with customisable avatars within a digital game.

Let Edutain You Me

Does the essence of prime location lie in aspiration, attraction, or offering? Or does it lie in answers that stationary retailers – especially those in city centres – will need to provide. Looking at recent store openings, one discovers many positive examples – and their keyword is always future. What must a modern store offer in order to be sufficiently attractive, above all for younger target groups, to encourage people to visit the store physically rather than digitally? The answer is provided by store concepts that inspire and stimulate their customers not only physically with products, but also intellectually, playfully, creatively, and communicatively. Phygital info-entertainment, personal service, and connection to a community stand as equals. The ONE concept does not exist; there are many that all take a very well-informed and interested customer seriously. Edutainment succeeds by finding the right mix: customer experience paired with entertainment, a valuable range of services, and a curated product range that generates foot traffic.

Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Stores

The next level of Siam Discovery’s digital service offensive in partnership with Thai fashion provider Zepeto: customers can buy the latest runway looks by Thai designers from the Bangkok International Fashion Week as an NFT for their avatar or physically as an outfit.

Siam Discovery/Bangkok

Create Your Own Experience!

Siam Discovery – The Exploratorium in Bangkok defends its reputation as the largest experimental space for urban lifestyle trends with creative thematic worlds that actively invite customers to engage. One example is the Fight for the Future campaign in its Future Lab, where customers can immerse themselves in a phygital game created in collaboration with the companies Cryptomind, Fairtex, and Nimit, using their Sandbox Metaverse. With the assistance of these innovation partners, Siam Discovery is currently working on a replica of its entire building as its own Sandbox Metaverse space, in part to better connect its customers with the in-house Onesiam Super App through an online-to-offline (O2O) experience. “Come, join us!” is the motto of every campaign at Siam Discovery, which perceives itself as a portal and seamless interface between experiences in the real and digital worlds. Physical consumption is an additional service here, but by no means the only reason why customers visit.

Each of the elaborately staged theme worlds offers young target groups in particular a range of products tailored to their interests, complemented by regularly changing promotions and exhibitions.

In Hamburg, Adidas has succeeded in combining entertainment and information in an unobtrusive manner that puts fun first.

Adidas/Hamburg Infotainment at Every Turn

…with playful ease. The new Adidas store in Hamburg edutains its consumers via interactive, digital touchpoints throughout the premises. The app allows adiClub members to book changing rooms filled with a customised pre-selection of products. A digital interactive shoe wall plays the latest campaign videos and immediately provides relevant information when a shoe is removed from the shelf. By scanning the QR code that appears on the screen, customers can request personalised advice from store staff. Display boxes are scattered across the store, providing information about the materials used in shopfitting. A new interactive game for children allows up to three players to free the ocean from plastic waste with hand movements in the style of Fruit Ninja. The aim is to sensitise kids to the problem. This is also the focus of the Purpose Area on the lower floor, which presents informative and interactive elements on the sustainability aspect of individual products and the entire company.

Personal service is the gateway to which every technical feature in the store ultimately leads.

Technological masterpiece: the interactive shoe wall automatically displays information about a product as soon as it is removed from the shelf.

A store without actual merchandise. The fashion can only be viewed, tried on, and purchased via augmented reality – and only in the store.

Crosby Studios x Zero 10/New York Plenty of (Vacant) Space for Fashion

The first physical fashion store that exclusively sells digital fashion opened in New York’s Soho district at the end of August 2022. Augmented reality (AR) fills the vacant spaces with digital products that customers can only try on and buy on location using their avatar or photo. “The main idea behind Zero10 is that the future has already arrived and is not solely virtual. All our projects link digital fashion with the physical world to show users how AR could be a part of our everyday lives. Our first-ever physical pop-up store with digital-only clothing is a great example of that. Instead of turning to the Metaverse, we introduce the technology to physical spaces, allowing shoppers to experience digital fashion in a familiar way by visiting a brickand-mortar store,” says George Yashin, CEO of Zero10. When asked how to draw young, very well-informed customers who are disenchanted with the mainstream back into stores, Yashin’s best advice is to utilise AR technologies: “AR clothing try-on experience integrated into physical retail is a new language that allows brands to interact with the new generation of consumers. We believe that companies that don’t plan on implementing AR experiences in retail within the next 5 years will be left behind.”

Purchase possible via smartphone only. The NFTs can be applied directly to avatars or photos via the Zero10 app.

“Merely introducing the technology in-store doesn’t necessarily make the space a success. It should be a part of a holistic innovative and creative concept that triggers a response among your audience.”

Zero10 CEO George Yashin

The Lab E20 is a co-creative hub in London East Village. It combines retail, workshops, a studio, an installation space, and a film studio. The space aims to be a springboard for positive change.

The Lab E20/London Celebrity Patronage for the East Village

In London, Christopher Raeburn is a name synonymous with sustainable, clever design and circular material flows. He is the sustainability provocateur of the emerging London community. In keeping with the motto of his eponymous label Remade, Reduce, Recycle, Raeburn, he is committed to improved products, innovative retail concepts, and – above all – enhanced networking and economic development of London’s East Village via his Raeburn Lab, which was launched in 2020, and his The Lab E20 project, which was added in 2021.

Most importantly, he found the perfect partners for The Lab E20: property company Get Living, as well as the organisations East Village, FutureCity, and Tuesday Design. “The focus of these curated partnerships for The Lab E20 was to manifest the placemaking vision that by 2025, the East Village will be the gateway to London’s fashion district and the East Bank. The purpose of The Lab E20 is to seed a new and inclusive creative industries cluster within the East Village. The Lab E20 builds on the lessons learned from the RÆBURN Lab in Hackney, where we are proud of our role in innovating a new paradigm for creative enterprise-led regeneration that supports the wider local communities in urban centres,” says Raeburn.

He understands how to connect the right protagonists and companies: Designer Christopher Raeburn actively promotes London’s East Village.

An NFT ATM (comparable to a cash terminal) allows you to download NFTs. Physical art, such as this fictitious meteorite that fell on New York in 2020 and brought deposits of an alien fungus to earth for the first time, is displayed in the central exhibition area in the middle of the bar.

If you aspire to draw attention to yourself in Seoul, you need to radically re-imagine reality. In August last year, the Space Monster Concepts team launched their experimental mix of cuisine, retail, and exhibition space at ESC in the heart of the city. It has served as the community hub of Seoul’s progressive creative scene ever since.

Molecular desserts and syrups, socalled infusions named Cosmic Fuel or Liquid from Mars, invite visitors to explore the universe using all senses.

Extraterrestrial Space Corporation (ESC)/Seoul Experimental Retail Universe

Each of us has an individual image of the universe – and yet, in the end, we have no idea. The Space Monster Contents team considered this an excellent starting point for their retail experiment in the form of a concept store in which they attempt to familiarise customers with the universe through a variety of products, such as a specially composed molecular cuisine, selected pieces, and art. Here, an alien abduction becomes a customer experience. ESC is currently the best example of how an excellent narrative can provide the framework for a whole concept.

“In this store, you will always find something special,” says owner Costas Karageorge, explaining his recipe for success consisting of an extravagant product range, a private shopping environment, and passionate service offered by his small, dedicated team.

The Business Fashion, Kafeneo/Leicester “Let’s Build Something Amazing”

Costas Karageorge is on a mission. This becomes clear to anyone who approaches the experienced retail enthusiast from Leicester about his store The Business Fashion, which reopened in June 2022 after a two-and-a-half-year renovation phase. In his mind, customer experience is not an aspect that can be outsourced via screens or technical gadgets. It is a sumptuously engineered matrix of highly personal service, an unusual range of products, and a truly bombastic building that he, in collaboration with his two brothers Nick and Michael, has been steadily refining and adding to in painstaking detail since 2009. Here, the customer enjoys edutainment in face-to-face conversations with their sales consultant, as shopping is only possible by appointment in order to convey the store’s core competence in a relaxed atmosphere: “We always look for brands that have a tight distribution and are not over-sold, such as emerging designers from all over the world, anything unexpected and new. Predicting the next big brand is part of our DNA, as we have been the first stockist in the UK and Europe for many brands, such as, for example, Off-White, Amiri, or ERL,” says Karageorge, who combines new labels with high fashion brands like Balenciaga, Givenchy, and Alexander McQueen.

The entree houses the coffeeshop Kafeneo, where a skilled barista not only makes coffee, but also acts as a receptionist for the store. He schedules appointments and is the first point of contact for customers who visit the store. The location in the immediate vicinity of the university’s international community makes the individuality of the store its unique selling point.

The Kafeneo welcomes anyone who wishes to make an appointment at The Business Fashion or simply enjoy the best coffee in town.

THE NEW CULTURE OF STREETWEAR DROP IT LIKE IT’S HOT

Short-term drops instead of collections, no more seasons, and flexible response speed instead of design and production cycles with several months of lead time. No intermediary trade, but direct-to-consumer distribution channels, limited small series instead of NOS, and comprehensible design codes reflecting the zeitgeist. No marketing measures and advertising budgets, but real-time social media channels with direct feedback from the community. What reads like a manifesto is in reality just the breaking down of a complex process to its core: delivering the right product to the right customer at exactly the right time. The success of streetwear culture is based on a clever understanding of market mechanisms and customer relations that is just establishing itself as a subculture.

A TASTE OF THINGS TO COME

The streetwear scene is dominated by a generation of young entrepreneurs who calmly trim existing business plans for efficiency, uncorrupted and almost naïve. Their success proves them right. They restore so much of what the industry used to be about: fun and ease, passion for brands and their image, a desire for something new and for self-expression. What is striking is the tolerance, the openness towards crossover deals, and the celebration of common heroes like Virgil Abloh, whose spirit lives on perceptibly in these circles. However, the marketing approach, choice of media, and the direct-to-consumer principle are not the only new aspects. Above all, there are the influence of gaming and Web3.0, as well as high sustainability standards on all sides. Even the young rebels,

Influencers and young entrepreneurs such as Achraf Ait Bouzalim of 6pm Season and Justin Fuchs of Peso, as well as brands like Reternity, demonstrate how intuitively, directly, and customer­driven the young streetwear market operates. They draw a clear demarcation line along which they question established business models within the industry, do things differently, and in the process establish a surprisingly large number of exciting points of contact with stationary retailers.

Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Brands, Stores

who do so many things differently and rightfully so, come to a realisation when their business reaches a certain level of maturity: smart retailing is part of their ecosystem. They bear responsibility, and the line between authenticity and commerciality is rapidly narrowing. Insiders such as TikTok influencers, experienced market strategists, pioneers, and newcomers to the design and retail scene give an impression of how new business models and brands develop their charisma, reliably deliver to the community, and thus also create new momentum in retail.

The best example of how the gaming scene inspires streetwear and vice versa: after the first joint capsule in December 2020, which sold out within seconds, Razer, the leading lifestyle brand for gamers, and iconic streetwear brand A Bathing Ape launched another drop in 2022.

JUSTIN FUCHS/PESO

“THE HYPE GOT ME TO WHERE I AM TODAY”

When he posted his first style checks and videos on YouTube at the age of 18, his audience still represented a very small niche within the menswear segment. Today, Justin Fuchs has more than 800,000 followers on various channels. He was one of the first to inject his instinct for the perfect look into his personal brand Peso. That was almost seven years ago. He knows what it takes for a brand launched on social media as personal merchandise to establish itself as a permanent streetwear fixture. Why? The 24-yearold is currently experiencing that transformation himself.

Justin, how did the idea of your own brand come about?

Initially, I had a merch store that offered that option. However, after my first hoodie drop crashed the system and word started to spread, Lorenz Amend of Live Fast Die Young approached me and offered to support me with his expertise. I still cooperate with him to this day. Not creatively, as I refuse to accept any interference in that respect, but in terms of the back office, warehousing, and shipping.

Where do you sell your drops?

Exclusively online via our own website. I have been approached by many prestigious stores, but such partnerships have not been an option for me thus far. That is still up in the air, but definitely something to be considered. I am currently more preoccupied with structural matters. I am beginning to realise that the previous limitation of our products, due to the inherent nature of the drops, is more of a hindrance than an advantage. Our drops are often sold out so quickly that, in some cases, there are only a few basics left in the shop. They obviously do not represent the image of the brand as a whole. That is why we are in the process of modifying our concept, with the aim of cutting back on limitation in order to show more of the collection. I want the collection to be coveted not only because the pieces are rare, but because people actually love the designs.

Your brand is built on your popularity as an influencer. What significance does that still have in your everyday life today, even apart from Peso?

Obviously, with over 800,000 followers, I exert a certain influence on people, which is why brands approach me. Yet I still would not describe myself as a classic influencer. I only collaborate with brands that I am one hundred percent convinced of. An excellent example was the partnership with Breuninger when they were collaborating with Off-White. I recently configured a car for Rolls Royce Cologne and released a matching jersey. Cool for me and cool for Peso, so I can get behind that.

He is considered to be one of the foremost streetwear influencers. Since launching his own brand Peso, Justin has built a young team of eight employees.

“The limitation created a huge hype for the brand launch and got us to where we are today.” Justin Fuchs has since pivoted to higher volumes in fewer drops per year.

It all started when his big brother gifted him a Jordan 1 sneaker when he was in fifth grade. Today, 18-year-old Sam shares his passion for fashion, style, and creativity with over 300,000 followers on a daily basis via his TikTok channel wherearemyglases. He injects his in-depth understanding of the needs of his community into his Deputy Department brand. It is intended to serve as a platform that represents his community – as a proxy for an entire generation.

Sam, do you consider yourself an influencer?

I would argue that creative content creator better describes what I do. I produce content to inspire people, not to influence them. That is just a side effect. When did what was initially a hobby evolve into a business?

It happened relatively early, but the perfect medium for it came later. I started off on Instagram, but it was TikTok that provided me with the reach to address a larger community. I would say it is a hobby that has grown into a business, yet it still has a great deal of hobby to it. It became a business the moment I realised that I could earn good money, and that it opened up certain opportunities for me. At first, I contacted and canvassed brands, but now they approach me. My first partner was emerging German brand Young Saint. In fact, I happen to be wearing it right now.

Authenticity is your greatest asset. What exactly does a brand need to convey in order to appeal to you as a potential partner?

First and foremost creativity, which is exactly what I think most brands lack. Many brands teach young men how to dress to avoid attracting attention. I strive to counteract this approach. This is why it is so important to me that the people behind the designs have really thought about it. The designs should convey a message and have a deeper meaning. At the end of the day, it is all about the full package. Any brand that wants to be taken seriously needs to be sustainable. That simply reflects

the zeitgeist. I make a personal statement with what I wear. The brand’s image probably plays the most significant role in this respect. If a brand chooses an ambassador who does not represent what the brand symbolises, then nothing can come of it. I consider those to be the three pillars. And I would argue that I am very selective in this respect. I turn down more collaborations than I accept, especially if the brand in question forces a complete script on me. I believe authenticity is the overriding priority. The moment I have to think about whether I am being authentic, then it is already far too late.

Prominent brands from the luxury fashion genre keep on making inroads into this subculture. Is this the real legacy of Virgil Abloh?

Virgil Abloh definitely paved the way with Luis Vuitton and OffWhite. The collaboration between Kanye West and Balenciaga also exemplifies very well – aside from the criticism of Kanye – how well the pairing of street credibility and luxury fashion works.

What was your biggest deal so far? Probably my cooperation with YSL. What is on the agenda for the near future?

I am not too focused on growth. I am more interested in strengthening the community that I have established and forging deeper bonds within it. I wish to establish a platform where people can inspire each other and exchange ideas. That is my plan. At the same time, I am in the process of developing my own fashion brand, Deputy Department.

How far along are you with Deputy Department?

I have completed the first two drops and a re-stock, which was very successful. I am incredibly satisfied with the results and still have plenty of exciting ideas in the pipeline.

Do you intend to move into stationary retail with it as well?

I would like the brand to remain exclusive. By no means price-exclusive, but in the sense that people who wear it are aware of what they are wearing and what it represents. Quality over quantity, at any rate. If I ever launch a basics line, I could imagine a partnership with online stores or retailers.

What is the message you convey with Deputy Department?

For me, Deputy Department symbolises the generation to which I belong. All the feedback from my community is directly incorporated. I leverage the potential of my channel. The challenge for me is to filter out exactly what moves my generation from the huge amount of information that reaches me every day. I want Deputy Department to be the brand that represents my generation. That is the plan.

Sam is taking the next logical step from content creator to designer with his own brand called Deputy Department. The name says it all. The brand is staged to represent his generation.

Sam inspires hundreds of thousands of followers on his TikTok channel wherearemyglases. The name alludes to his talent for constantly losing one of his favourite accessories: glasses!

Forging a bridge from online to offline: as a release promotion, Reternity distributed posters in cities such as Paris, Amsterdam, and Venice.

RETERNITY CREDIBILITY IS KEY!

Their Donald Duck print featuring the F-word on a t-shirt as a political reference to the former US president garnered 14,000 likes. This happened shortly before the release of the first collection. It was the media kick-start for Reternity. Lauren Riedel and Tom Schmidt have expanded their brand significantly over the past four years and are about to take their next major step. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Reternity

Lauren, is being labelled a social media brand a curse or a blessing?

The simple fact is that we were formed and matured through social media. To this day, this is virtually our only medium of communication. We do not have a B2B background, but we have developed our own content language. That is why it is so important to us to keep evolving, not least in order to differentiate ourselves.

As a D2C brand, do you address your customers exclusively via your own online store?

Up until now, at least. We only operated via our own online shop for a while, but we hosted our first event at Oberpollinger in Munich, including our own individual space, at the end of last year. That was our first offline experience and it worked out really well. It allowed us to meet our fans in person for a change. Experiencing this sense of community live was incredible. A like on Instagram is a completely different proposition than someone boarding a train to check out the brand. We intend to enter the wholesale market this year, and a retail store in Hamburg is also conceivable. However, we do not consider B2B as our most important sales market, but rather as a marketing tool for positioning and branding. That is why we have chosen a selective approach.

Streetwear authenticity on the one hand, growth via B2B sales and more commercial channels on the other. Will this be a balancing act for you?

Credibility and authenticity are both incredibly important and challenging, especially in the streetwear cosmos. Neither of us are media trendsetters like Achraf of 6pm Season or Justin Fuchs of Peso. They are personalities who polarise on social media and build their brand on that, leverage their reach, and give their business a face. We come from a completely different background and want the brand to function independently of us, not be perceived as our merchandise. Nevertheless, we frequently observe that perception and association depend heavily on the people behind the brand – especially in the context of social media. We have discussed the idea of becoming more visible from time to time. But that is not who we are, and we wish to remain true to our identity. What we focus on instead is our slogan: Join the Family. Familiarity is a common thread running through our company. Instagram, for example, offers the “Closest Friends” feature, which we use to keep our regular customers – our Reternity Hooligans – particularly close. We invite them to join our Discord channel and even include them in decisions.

The motto of entrepreneurs Lauren Riedel and Tom Schmidt is: “Join the Family”. Her team comprises around 20 people with an average age of 25.

RAZER X BAPE A GAMING APE

Few brands are as famous in the international art and streetwear scene as A Bathing Ape of Japan. In collaboration with gaming lifestyle brand Razer, which offers gamers everything concerning flat screens and consoles, they launched the second edition of A Gaming Ape in 2022. Given that the first capsule from December 2020 sold out in seconds, this edition is doubled in scope. “Gaming has evolved into a global subculture that many international artists and celebrities are embracing. We expect this trend to continue and have a major impact on the fashion industry. Our collaboration with Razer, the leading lifestyle brand for gamers, creates a powerful synergy that combines and leverages the strengths of both companies,” says Akihiro Fukui, General Manager of Brand Business at A Bathing Ape. www.bape.com

Everyone

End launched its latest collaboration with Saucony, the Shadow 6000 “Fried Chicken”, during a live event on endclothing.com.

END X SAUCONY FRIED CHICKEN!

Following the huge success of the first joint fashion fast-food treat, the Shadow 5000 “Burger” of 2014, Saucony and End recently launched the Shadow 6000 “Fried Chicken”. The tongue-in-cheek nature of the shoe is evident. Saucony is thus continuing this powerhouse partnership: End is one of the most established international stores for carefully curated menswear ranging from high fashion to streetwear, both online and offline. www.saucony.com, www.endclothing.com

WhyNot seeks to offer all hip hop fans and urban fashion enthusiasts a new home: as an online store with a unique social character.

Family 1st Family 4ever, launched in collaboration with rapper Loredana, is among the first brands to grace the platform.

WHYNOT NEW URBAN STREET

CULTURE

SPOT BY ABOUT YOU

Family 1st Family 4ever is an emerging streetwear brand that was presented to the public at the About You Fashion Week in Milan last year. Today, it is available at the WhyNot store launched in 2022. The new brand is backed by rapper Loredana and WhyNot, a joint venture founded by About You in partnership with players from the German hip hop scene to present Gen Z customers with exclusive insights into street culture, streetwear, and personal brands of artists. By supporting and assisting rappers in the creation of their personal brands, WhyNot provides its clients with more than the finished product, delivering very personal insights into what goes on behind the scenes: from the creation of a new track to designing a new collection. The artists allow fans to peer behind the curtain and even debut songs on WhyNot. www.why-not.com

brings their know-how to the table: A Bathing Ape provides the iconic style, while Razer offers reach and credibility in the gaming scene. Together, they created A Gaming Ape.

new culture of streetwear

In partnership with architecture firm Snarkitecture, Kith designed the entrance area, as in all stores, featuring moulded sneakers suspended from the ceiling. Kith chooses a different sneaker silhouette for each new continent. In Paris, it was the Air Max 1 as a tribute to Centre Pompidou.

KITH PARIS THE NEXT VIRGIL ABLOH

Ronnie Fieg seems omnipresent at the moment. The founder and owner of Kith has established himself as an industry legend through his designs, his high-profile collaborations, and – last but not least – his monumental stores. His appointment as Creative Director of the New York Knicks in November last year was simply the crowning achievement of the creative high performer, who is currently disrupting the industry on all fronts.

When the first Kith store launched in Paris in February 2021, Ronnie Fieg made a bold statement in the heart of Europe’s fashion capital. He occupied three floors and the central courtyard of the historic Pershing Hall Building on Rue Pierre Charron, located squarely in Paris’ famous Golden Triangle, the neighbourhood where much of France’s economic wealth is concentrated in the form of businesses and luxury stores. To date, it is the largest of all Kith stores worldwide. With a carefully curated portfolio of approximately 100 brands, and especially through the Kith-for-collaborations, Kith is emblematic of the potential and relevance of streetwear in fashion, and how casually it blends with high couture. The store in Paris delivers a full lifestyle experience in a unique setting. Kith Treats is the in-house ice cream and cereal bar, and with Kith for Sadelle’s, the team has successfully imported the renowned New York cult restaurant to Paris.

He achieves what others do not even dare to dream about, for example being appointed as Creative Director of the New York Knicks. Ronnie Fieg is currently the fulcrum of the creative scene. Via Kith, he is consistently expanding his approach to fashion.

The glass-covered courtyard features a ceiling-high wall of plants, designed by botanist Patrick Blanc, and restaged by Jardins de Babylone.

Kith is a byword for the most exclusive sneaker releases and collaborations. These high standards are also reflected in the furnishings of the menswear area, featuring heavy furniture, walnut panelling, and brass shelves in a lounge atmosphere.

BSTN “IT IS DEFINITELY ABOUT VALUES”

Diving into the rich heritage of streetwear with Christian Trojan and Dusan Cvetkovic of BSTN feels like pure brain stimulation. It conjures up New York basketball courts, hip hop beats, sporting challenges, and cult brands. That OG attitude to life is, for so many people, inextricably linked with sneakers like the Air Jordan. Yet suddenly someone who has never even seen Michael Jordan play walks into the picture. Someone who embraces the style just as much, but for completely different reasons. Gen Z places new demands on brands and stores. A challenge that BSTN addresses with a hybrid strategy, once again proving its stature.

BSTN is a pioneer of the streetwear scene and yet always embodies change. The industry is currently experiencing plenty of change, not least due to social media brands and young influencers who are stirring up the market. How does that affect you, both in terms of collections and stores?

Christian Trojan, Managing Director of BSTN: Generally speaking, Gen Z is an important topic for us. Many of our portfolio brands share this view. We believe in a hybrid approach, catering to multiple customer groups. On the one hand, there is the streetwear connoisseur who knows and celebrates all the Air Jordan 1 colourways. On the other hand, there are the kids who have never seen Michael Jordan play live. For us, this means that we need to satisfy both our early OG customers and Gen Z. After all, these kids are writing their own chapter of sports and streetwear. That is why it is so fascinating for us to observe how they develop a relationship with, for example, an Adidas Forum. And not because they know the heritage of the shoe from the past, but because they are adapting it to their own style. It creates a new dynamic, especially in retail. This influences our product range and storytelling.

What is the story you wish to share with Gen Z?

It is definitely about values and authenticity. In the past, it was all about the highest level of sporting performance, competition, and the eternal challenge. Modern customers have universal access to all kinds of information and are well-informed. Therefore, today’s storytelling is less about pure information and more about emotion, creativity, sustainability, and community. We need to convey our attitude and values; explain why we think a product is great. Be it online or in-store, our objective is to connect with customers and see how they interact with a product. The intersection between the different generations is extremely intriguing, as they share a passion for a certain piece. We have very different customer types who all celebrate the same shoe model. Yet they do so for completely different reasons and from completely different perspectives.

Community hub: the Hamburg store recently celebrated its fifth anniversary.

BSTN presented its debut collection following its comprehensive brand relaunch in autumn 2022. With an amplified unisex approach, the alpine basketball collection also appeals to Gen Z.

BALDESSARINI

X BENE SCHULZ

TODAY WILL NOT RETURN TOMORROW

Florian Wortmann took over as Managing Director at Baldessarini two years ago. The brand has been setting a new pace ever since, expanding its international sales network, and steadily raising its profile. With its current collaboration with Bene Schulz, part of the five-strong social media group Elevator Boys, the brand is venturing into uncharted territory. A conversation about opportunity, risk, and the excitement of the unknown.

Florian, let us start with a deliberately provocative question. How does Baldessarini actually benefit from collaborating with a twentysomething content creator like Bene Schulz?

This is a question that we discussed internally for a long time, with great intensity, and in a rather hybrid context. Soberly assessed, the greatest quality of content creators is that they market themselves and allow others to tap into their popularity. However, they are forced to open their entire book of life in the process. Anyone can do that, but not everyone does. One really should not underestimate the effort and dedication involved, as this is a highly professional business. As an international brand, we can no longer ignore this communication channel.

The Elevator Boys portray themselves as the digital Backstreet Boys of their generation. How does that align with Baldessarini’s regular customer?

In fact, we thought long and hard about whether Bene is too young at 21, because our average customer is 45. We do not want to lose sight of our customer base, of course, but simultaneously we need to ensure that new generations perceive the brand in the same way. That is why I do not perceive any dissonance in implementing digital campaigns with a young ambassador. The risk of unsettling our regular customers is much smaller than the chance of gaining new customers. Also, in 15 years Gen Z will be the most affluent customer group of all. A dear friend recently remarked that today will not return tomorrow. Wise words. I believe that focusing your brand-building efforts on the question of who will buy it in 15 years means you have the right mindset. However, the decisive criterion in favour of Bene was that it all clicked on a personal level.

You are currently in New York. Among other things, to hold talks with potential sales partners and to push the brand’s international positioning. What is the desired output?

We hope to reach a young, fashion-savvy target group and increase awareness within Gen Z. The collaboration with Bene will definitely push Baldessarini at an international level. We are currently in talks regarding sales in the US and are also intent on expanding in the direction of Dubai.

Bene Schulz has more than 12 million followers on TikTok. On Instagram, he is just shy of a million. His fashion style reflects Baldessarini’s smart casual luxury look – here at the first joint fashion show.

“Like a digital billboard with 360 degrees impact,” says Florian Wortmann, describing the potential for Baldessarini that he envisages in the collaboration with Elevator Boy Bene Schulz.

CODES OF CONDUCT

The look is the code, and the creator behind it is, more often than not, the brand. The streetwear market has always played by its own rules, and these brands are instrumental in bringing a new, contemporary interpretation to the foreground. They convey values and sustainability, while offering more depth than a simple brand logo on a basic shirt might suggest at first glance.

Young Saint BERLIN STREETWEAR

This brand, founded by Justin Minow and Tim Borkenhagen in Berlin, also dates back to the streetwear boom year of 2019. Young Saint offers two lines, namely Cozyline and Techline, and embodies bigcity flair, sporty casualness, and functional designs. www.youngsaint.de

1C1Y SOCIAL FASHION

Inspired by the skate heritage of the 1990s, 1C1Y launched its first collection in autumn 2022. 1 Child 1 Year is a German fair-trade label that sustainably manufactures a small range of items in Europe under the ownership of non-profit organisation Arthelps. 60 Euros per item sold support a child in one of their worldwide facilities for one year. www.1C1Y.de

Verborgen Studios FANBASE LONDON

Launched in 2017 by Jack Fernandes as a modest jersey line, British brand Verborgen has steadily evolved and expanded its designs. Although the epicentre remains London, the label is now deeply entwined with the US rap scene and counts rapper Chris Brown (pictured left of Jack Fernandes) among its fans. www. verborgenstudios.co.uk

A Cold Wall ART COLLECTIVE

The driving force behind the brand is British artist, fashion guru, and product designer Samuel Ross, who sees his fashion as a material study of social architecture. Through high-profile collaborations with the likes of Off-White, Nike, Barney’s, and, most recently, British artist Pa Salieu (see picture), A Cold Wall proves just how dynamic the fusion of art, music, fashion, and street culture can be. www.a-cold-wall.com

Alife & Kickin CONSCIOUSNESS PIONEERS

Vegan, eco-friendly, fairly produced streetwear made of recycled materials, synthetic down, Lyocell, and Tyvek is the trademark of Alife & Kickin. The label was created by Mila and Nico Jakob, who recently published their first conscious fashion book on sustainable, fairly produced fashion in November 2022. www.alifeandkickin.com

Filling Pieces x Daily Paper A DECADE ON

Filling Pieces and Daily Paper, two pioneering streetwear brands from Amsterdam, are currently celebrating the relaunch of their collaboration with another capsule collection. The first was launched in 2013, and now the second follows almost a decade later: a tribute to Congolese dandyism. www.fillingpieces.com

Daily Paper BORN IN AMSTERDAM

Initially launched by Abderrahmane Trabsini, Jefferson Osei, and Hussein Suleiman – a trio with African roots –as a music, art, and street culture blog, Daily Paper was soon developed into a fashion brand. Collaboration partners include the Van Gogh Museum in Amsterdam, Off-White, Alpha Industries, and Puma. The label currently runs three stores in Amsterdam, London, and New York. www.dailypaperclothing.com

Kith for Columbia STYLE ICON WITH HERITAGE

New York retail icon Kith launched its sixth limited edition with Columbia Sportswear in 2022. As always, the core of the collaboration combines Columbia’s high-tech performance innovations with the hip streetwear styles that Kith is so famous for. www.columbiasportswear.com, www.kith.com

Iuter CREW FOR CREW

They celebrated their 20th anniversary last year, yet they remain as relevant as ever. The Milanese Iuter crew launched their eponymous brand in 2002 and, inspired by the switch from the Italian Lira to the Euro, followed up with the Euroiuter sub-brand featuring corresponding design references. Since then, they have steadily developed into a creative clan that enjoys a strong following to this day. www.iuter.com

Jordan Brand x Maison Château Rouge HOMAGE TO HUMANITY

In collaboration with Parisian streetwear brand Maison Château Rouge, Jordan Brand launched a capsule dedicated to African cultural influences in the 18th arrondissement of Paris in 2022. As an independent platform, Maison Château Rouge is not only one of the hottest streetwear brands but also part of a social project called “Les Oiseaux Migrateurs”, which addresses the concerns of minorities. www.maisonchateaurouge.com

LiveFastDieYoung DÜSSELDORF STREETWEAR

The rules of the fashion industry were made for others, is the motto of the Düsseldorf streetwear brand and its founders Lorenz Amend and Patrick van den Heuvel, who initially started out with self-printed t-shirts. Today, they maintain their own stores in Munich, Berlin, Cologne, Düsseldorf, Amsterdam, and, most recently, Hamburg to offer their customers a physical touchpoint. www.livefastdieyoung.com

Rag & Bone CASUALWEAR OF NEW YORK

Marcus Wainwright has consistently developed his brand of urban New York flair into a premium label that now also features ready-to-wear lines of athletic looks and streetwear. Rag & Bone is particularly famous for its high-profile collaborations with the likes of Eminem, Jordan Brand, and Casio. www.rag-bone.com

A3B – The All-Encompassing Black FULL COMMUNITY TRANSPARENCY

A3B really took off during the pandemic. Their two drops entitled Global Shutdown and Panic Room sold out within ten minutes. “Our ambition is for each collection to outshine the previous one,” says Jan Naber, who founded the brand in Wolfsburg alongside Jacques Inglisa. Their products reflect the zeitgeist. The designs often revolve around the logo, using contemporary cuts and carefully selected materials. As lateral entrants, they have always been particularly passionate about new design methods, innovative collection concepts, and unusual production techniques. “Our clothes are characterised by the attitude one radiates whilst wearing them. They are as polarising as the aura a pilot exudes at an airport,” Jacques Inglisa argues. Yet their community is always invited along on the journey. From collection development to photo shoots, all processes are fully transparent and accessible via TikTok and Instagram. “TikTok has had an immense impact on our growth trajectory. One of our formats is packing videos. If the customer in question consents, we film the packing of their order and the personal delivery to publish it on TikTok.” With at least four drops a year, the brand has, since last autumn, also made its debut at retailers such as Peek & Cloppenburg and Ansons, as well as other department stores. www.thea3b.com

INSPIRED BY FLY FISHING

Partnerships and capsule collections involving community icons are like language basics in streetwear. Everyone needs them to communicate, but not everyone can master them. Reebok is among the most established sneaker brands that reinvents itself repeatedly through such means. The current collaboration involves Japanese outdoor brand South2 West8, which is dedicated to traditional fly fishing. www.reebok.com

WHYAT ARISEN FROM THE STORE

Austrian streetwear brand Whyat evolved as the in-house brand of the eponymous store in Vienna. The initial motivation of brothers Philipp and Bernhard Ledl was to leave a lasting mark on Vienna’s streetwear scene by introducing new, innovative brands. Today, their own collection is worn by international superstars such as Chris Brown, G Eazy, and Antoine Griezmann. The collection now features in stores such as BSTN, Breuninger, and Modehaus Schnitzler. www.whyat.com

South2 West8 x Reebok

Octopus THE POWER OF PERSEVERANCE

Oversized tentacles are the trademark of Italian high street collection Octopus, which adopted its stylistic devices from VNGRD and carried them out into the world. After a major relaunch, the brand debuted its collection in a large-scale guerrilla out-of-home advertising campaign across Italy in 2022. Its potential lies in its network, which facilitates collaborations with renowned artists, rappers, street artists, and stores such as Slam Jam Store and One Block Down in Milan. www.octopusbrand.com

Diadora INNOVATION DRIVEN BY

HERITAGE

Diadora CEO Enrico Moretti Polegato has two inexhaustible sources he can rely on for differentiation within the sneaker market, and to which he attributes the robust growth his brand is experiencing in North America: the unquestionable expertise as a sports shoe manufacturer with almost 75 years of experience, and the Italian DNA that blends sporting performance with authentic design. The Heritage collection, which is based on bold reinterpretations of iconic models from the company’s own archives, successfully addresses premium retailers. One of the management’s main priorities is to continuously improve production. To this end, Diadora acquired a disused factory in Caerano di San Marco in northern Italy, in order to launch its own in-house production and keep the supply chain as short as possible. www.diadora.com

Preach WHAT IS REALITY WITHOUT A FUTURE?

The unisex collection featuring striking slogans and graphics is underpinned by high standards in terms of sustainability, fairness, and responsibility towards everyone in the community. Managing Director Julian Lutz, incidentally also the founder, does not put himself in the spotlight, but rather the whole community of Preach, which is characterised by inclusion and cosmopolitanism. Preach launched in Düsseldorf in 2019 with a balanced manufacturing philosophy and collections produced exclusively in Europe in a sustainable manner. “The idea is to give those who need it that little push, that creative touch in everything that life throws at you,” is how Lutz describes the message behind Preach. www.preach.shop

Marvin, aka @futurist, commands a large community on TikTok, making him the perfect first testimonial to position Talents Domain as a full-service supplier for influencer collections.

TALENTS DOMAIN IT‘S ALL ABOUT COMMUNITY

Influencer collections that are more than just merchandise: Talents Domain offers creators the opportunity to realise their fashion visions to the letter. The all-inclusive service package offered by Ricardo Meyer and Peter Jähne covers every step of the creation process, with 18 collections already in the pipeline for 2023. Text: Martina Müllner. Photos: Talents Domain

Ricardo, you are an industry veteran. What impressed you most about collaborating with creators like Marvin?

Ricardo Meyer, CEO of Talents Domain: I like a great deal about the way this generation thinks. Everything is planned from the perspective of the consumer, based on community and feedback, even before we go into production. For our first collection, Marvin, an influencer known as @futurist, posted a style asking for feedback. The community submitted 12,000 responses. That is truly sensational!

Is it possible to predict sales based on these responses?

I am afraid not. That would be too easy. Sadly, community does not equal conversion. The product needs to meet very high standards and our learning is that it cannot be too normal. Special features are absolutely crucial, which is why influencers need someone who can create more sophisticated designs. These are not merchandising collections!

Will there be a dedicated marketplace or will each influencer market their collection independently?

Yes, we are creating a marketplace where each of the 18 influencers with whom we are implementing projects in 2023 will have their own landing page. Yet primary traffic is generated by the creators themselves. We are impressed by how well this setup works, and a return rate of only eight percent shows just how efficient the system is.

Speaking of which, how important is the aspect of sustainability?

Sustainability in the sense of certain organic cotton certificates is not a priority, and there is little interest in detail on the part of customers. Nevertheless, it goes without saying that the products are produced fairly and professionally in Europe, because none of the creators would want it any other way. The fact that we hardly hold any stock and mainly operate in limited drops is probably the most important aspect. This allows us to work precisely and keep the brands clean.

More than standard merchandising items: Talents Domain produces small, on-demand drops for creators in Europe.

SEEK

“OUR INFLUENCERS ARE THE SEEKERS”

The core segment of Seek is traditionally bubbling with activity, as the trade show’s focus is on agile, progressive brands. The increasing success of new D2C and social media brands has led to a lively discussion in the halls of Seek about what impact this trend will have on the streetwear market. As expected, the answers are pretty encouraging.

What concrete influence do the changes in the streetwear market, which are currently primarily driven by social media, have on Seek and its exhibitors?

Marie-Luise Pratzelt, Show Director Seek: Seek is about community, as is social media. People follow each other, exchange ideas, comment, interact, and inspire – physically at Seek, digitally via social media. Our influencers are our great exhibitors, the Seekers if you will. They literally provide influences. We have always presented the personal brands of characters, creators, and industry pioneers. We tell their stories, discuss their values and products. It is a people’s business. Due to the extreme speed and constant change shaped and demanded by social media, values like consistency and sustainability have become incredibly important. This strong foundation is the only way to offer an opportunity for change and trends.

The heart and soul of Seek is the community spirit, which is particularly celebrated in sports and streetwear. What does Seek do to continually strengthen and retain its community?

For us as organisers, it is important to fulfil our role as great host and stimulus provider. We offer space and scope for our community to improve its networking and exchange of ideas in a positive atmosphere. The aim is to create an inviting and open environment where everyone enjoys coming together to share knowledge, experience, and enthusiasm over a drink. It is all about that special community vibe that has always formed the DNA of Seek. We are observing an emerging D2C approach in the market, especially among young brands. How do you handle this development, as it directly affects your customers?

Naturally, we have also identified this trend, and responded to it last July by introducing our new The Ground event concept. We are planning to repeat the event this summer. We strive to – and need to – reflect the entire fashion ecosystem, and this also includes the merging of B2B and D2C. It creates new, exciting, and particularly colourful synergies and dynamics. Our focus during the winter editions remains on our core business: the B2B trade fairs Seek and Premium. This is how we create the best possible combination of all worlds in the interest of the entire community.

consider

be both stage and foundation. We supply the paper, the ink, the marketing, or the pixels, while our brands provide the stories,” says Marie-Luise Pratzelt, describing Seek’s mission.

Powerful values such as an equal community, honest sustainability, and fairness are integral to Seek’s philosophy – and intersect with the demands of Gen Z.

“We

ourselves to

Marino Edelmann, Managing Brand Director Strellson, describing the potential that courage has in fashion – especially when addressing a young target group.

STRELLSON “WE EMBRACE CHANGE”

Marino Edelmann started reorienting Strellson about three years ago: more progressive, younger, and smartly aligned with the zeitgeist. He generated momentum for Strellson by reconciling brand perception with customers. Strellson underlined the dynamic of its newly defined collection last year in its collaboration with e­sports platform Oviation.

Strellson continues to inch closer to its customers season after season, and an increasing number of them are Gen Z. This generation is fuelling the success of D2C brands, as well as the paradigm shift within the market, like no other. How are you reacting to these developments?

Marino Edelmann, Managing Brand Director of Strellson: Personally, I consider this a very complex issue and certainly the most significant paradigm shift in recent years. In the past, the buyer was a gatekeeper of sorts who decided what would ultimately reach the market. Today, consumers themselves decide what they like and what they want to wear. We quickly realised, even at the onset of the social media age, that the customer now has greater decision-making power than the buyer. I am delighted with this development, as it is very honest and genuine. D2C channels generate brand awareness much faster and introduce a new dynamic to the market, which also

drives us to move forward. And that not only applies to streetwear, but spreads across the whole of menswear as a zeitgeist phenomenon. This is one of the reasons why ready-to-wear is experiencing a revival. What does that mean content-wise, especially for the collection and your sales channels?

Our own D2C channels reveal that topics that may be irrelevant to buyers are performing fantastically online, or that topics that were initially successful online are becoming relevant to retailers. We plan to commercialise TikTok on a trial basis this year, not least to gauge to what extent this is feasible with our customers. Our main focus at the moment, however, is the continuous improvement of our online shop in terms of usability and implementing a high­quality visual language. The traffic and exposure of our web shop are extremely high, and it is once again growing at a high double­digit rate this year. Moreover, I am convinced that our communication and presentation via these channels also benefit our retail partners, as it stimulates brand appeal and sales on the floor.

Last year, you gained Ovation eSports, one of the biggest gaming platforms in Switzerland, as a partner. What are the plans in this regard?

The first step was to generate reach through this cooperation and our social media channels, and now we are really stepping up the pace. Ovation helped establish contact with numerous content creators and gamers. I believe this is essential to remain close to that particular target group and highlight our brand within that audience. You need a keen sense for this type of customer, and, above all, you need to engage. Listening, being open, and accepting that things are different now is certainly a very important first step.

“I decided three years ago that we were capable of cranking up the pace in the fashion stakes,” says

Yasmin Bal, who grew up in a very conservative patchwork family, provokes and polarises with her styling choices. Even as a child, it was her biggest dream to design her own collection.

YASMIN BAL “FIND A HOBBY, CHILD!”

The title reflects advice Yasmin Bal, then 15 years old, received from her mother. She first came into contact with social media via YouTube and Instagram. She made her breakthrough on TikTok under the handle @ezgiyasminbal in 2020. Today, more than 560,000 followers tune in to the personal, disarmingly honest, deliberately polarising, and at the same time, mostly brilliantly­humored content created by the daughter of a Turkish father and a Ukrainian­Russian mother. The fact that the account is underpinned by a KPI­driven business, which has turned the 19­year­old into a successful young entrepreneur, only becomes apparent at second glance.

Interview: Stephan Huber. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Yasmin Bal

Yasmin, you are not afraid to address very personal topics, conflicts, and fears on social media. Yet you also post fashion and make-up tutorials. What resonates more with your followers?

I definitely receive the more intense comments and feedback on personal topics. These are usually messages from people who thank me for my openness and share their own stories with me. It is a difficult experience for all sides, as you reveal your vulnerability and expose yourself to potential attack. Receiving feedback describing me as a safe place is the greatest compliment I can imagine. Many are teenagers who feel that my channel is an escape from their own everyday lives and problems.

There is (still) no classical definition for your job, let alone dedicated educational training. How often do you encounter the preconception that being an influencer is not a real job?

Social media content creator is a job like any other, and it requires an enormous amount of discipline.

“The reactions of my community show me every day how important an influencer’s personality is, because that’s what people want to see,” says Yasmin Bal, who is not afraid to open up.

Nobody sees the many hours I devote to preparation and follow­up work, or the time I spend creating new content. On top of that, I attach particular importance to interacting with my community. I post on several platforms simultaneously, not just on one. If I fail to upload a video for a day, I am acutely aware that I am not doing my job. It is really hard work, because you need to plan absolutely everything – not least to establish a storyline.

If you were to hire an influencer as a company, what factors and KPIs would you use for selection?

I would look at the insights first, as numbers are key. It is easy to access data such as countries, age group, and gender on TikTok and Instagram. However, I consider other factors to be even more important than demographic data. Judging by the reaction of my community, I can tell which topics excite them, which values we agree on, and what is discussed controversially. People did not talk about personal issues on social media in the past. The pandemic and TikTok changed that, and now they are willing to express their thoughts freely. “Being real” has become the greatest asset in our industry in the process. If people act like empty shells and are not open to sharing anything substantial about themselves, then identification, and therefore interaction, is impossible. And, at the end of the day, interaction is what it is all about.

JOOP

X LOREDANA

“BRANDS SHOULD POLARISE”

This is proof that a good idea can also sometimes be realised spontaneously: Thorsten Stiebing, Managing Director of Joop, engaged rapper Loredana for a capsule collection.

the new culture of streetwear

Almost three years after the successful launch of the Joop womenswear collection, the brand presents a collaborative capsule with German rapper Loredana. Managing Director

Thorsten Stiebing believes that the communicative rejuvenation that goes hand in hand with this spectacular coup comes at exactly the right time. He is convinced that the courage to try something new, to address young target groups in a progressive way, and to reinvent oneself repeatedly is more crucial than ever.

Interview: Stephan Huber. Text: Isabel Faiss. Photos: Joop

Thorsten, in the midst of perhaps the biggest transformation of the fashion industry as a whole, JOOP is undergoing a self-initiated realignment as a brand and a company. What are the most important challenges in this process?

Thorsten Stiebing, Managing Director of Joop: At present, we are moving from one crisis to the next. That is quite a challenge. We handled Covid very well. In fact, sales doubled during this period. Now we have to deal with inflation. This means that we have to position ourselves accordingly, really push forward, and, above all, invest. Right now, it is decisive to be bold. We have invested heavily in brand visibility, new shop-in-shop concepts, and the product itself. We also plan to open new stores. Last but not least, we invested in our warehouse system to ensure delivery capability. It is not the easiest decision to spend large sums of money in difficult times, but the strategy during the pandemic has taught us that it is essential. Humans need brands and support, especially in times of crisis.

Digitisation and the ability to connect with new, young consumers are just some of the topics for the future. Is this how the cooperation with Loredana came about?

The idea was the result of strategic planning, even if it evolved out of a spontaneous notion. There is a certain parallelism between Loredana and Joop, a common fundamental ideology that simply fits together. She enjoys a high standing in the young target group, but never claims to be perfect. I felt she was the right partner because she authentically conveys this mixture of mother and rapper, with all accompanying conflicts. Our design team teamed up with her to develop a unisex collection. Pairing our young designers with Loredana, and seeing the results, was an incredible experience. Loredana is in her mid-20s and thinks completely differently. The input she provided was quite controversial, but we quickly realised that we share a certain hedonistic approach. As attractive as the topic of artist collaboration is, it only works if the story is 100 percent authentic. How do you address this risk?

This target group is more critical than ever. It is much more skilled at observing and notices immediately whether something is authentic or not. That posed a certain risk, because you only find out whether something is good or not by actually doing it. The fascination in working with non-industry outsiders lies in the fact that they deliberately ignore the edges and corners that we would

often grind away by default. These can sometimes be sharp-edged, but something completely new emerges every time. You have to be able to deal with that. For this first collection, we have opted for a very selective sales strategy with a strict limitation and are only launching the collection at around seven retail partners in the DACH region. This will electrify people and give the brand the appropriate push in the right direction: younger and cooler. And it proves that the brand can deliver.

Loredana is one of the central style icons of this new subculture originating from the hip-hop and streetwear community. She is emblematic of the transformation of the industry towards a consumer-driven logic. What does this very direct approach mean for Joop?

A great deal! Our entire presentation is a reaction to it. And we also learn much from Loredana’s attitude – representative of her young generation. Brands do not always need to conform; they should also polarise. This rings true for Joop in particular. To achieve this, you need the right protagonists, and it would be terribly boring if you always stuck to your traditional target group. It is precisely Loredana’s equally polarising appearance that makes the collaboration so refreshing and exciting. The whole topic is incredibly exciting. This generation ticks very differently. Loredana’s first question was whether we had a beatbox in the studio so that she could play her tracks for us. She herself is super proud of her music, which feels really authentic to me. There is real depth to it.

I believe this target group is currently somewhat misunderstood. It is often subject to the prejudice of superficiality due to the fast-paced and abbreviated nature of social media.

TikTok is a prime example. The platform conveys an unbelievable amount of information visually, with an enormous pull and speed. I am certain that we will exclusively communicate via moving images in a few years’ time. I, too, am more amused by a moving image than a still. This is, of course, abbreviated and more fast-paced, but it also teaches us to think differently. At the same time, the breadth of information is much greater.

Product is key and consumers in the premium market demand clear messages – now more than ever. Brands need to represent something. What will Joop represent in 2023?

We will focus on new showrooms, further collaborations with selected partners, and – above all – the B2C business. The emphasis is clearly more on B2C than on B2B, as we believe that the brand is ready for this step. For us, collaborations like the one with Loredana, which above all contribute to the marketing and perception of the brand, are essential. We strive to achieve even more visibility through our own stores, more shop-in-shops, and the internationalisation of the brand. Currently, we are entering the Middle East region, and we will significantly expand in North America. As you can tell, we have plenty of balls in the air right now.

The brand is communicating the launch of the Loredana x Joop collection via a 360-degree marketing campaign with a focus on digital channels, especially social media, and a big launch event including a live concert. The collection will be available exclusively at a few selected retailers.

NOOVA SNEAKERS FOR COOL PEOPLE

Simplicity instead of complex design ideas: Noova, a collection by Enrico Ferri, takes on the competitive sneaker market with clear lines and minimalist styling. After a rebranding, Noova is now entering phase two.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Noova

“When I first saw the prototype, I immediately thought, wow, a sneaker for cool people,” says brand founder Enrico Ferri. “Reflective nylon accents in the upper are a recognisable feature that make the Noova shoe unique.”

Since these initial steps, the collection has continued to evolve. Innovative materials and fine leathers form the foundation for a high-quality shoe, with emphasis on special wearing comfort. “We aspire to enter the segment of high-quality Made in Italy products with determination, maintaining a clear

line and enriching our products with simple details that make a difference,” says Ferri. Noova is backed by a young, small team around Ferri that works closely together and continuously seeks to create the best product possible. “Close coordination is essential in order to constantly finetune the efforts to achieve our ambitious goals,” says Ferri. For example, they worked on their own custom-made sole and rebranded the logo to further emphasise Noova’s claim and pureness.

Now comes phase two, in which the expansion process picks up speed again. For this purpose, the label intends to strengthen both its team and marketing power. Noova

has been present in France and Switzerland for two seasons, and has recently added customers in Serbia, Turkey, and the Czech Republic. As of the new season, two new agencies are responsible for sales in Switzerland and the Netherlands. Last but not least, Niklas Rill Fashion Agency has assumed responsibility for sales in Germany and Austria after a successful test phase. “Initial feedback has been excellent. The quality and comfort immediately convinced first retail customers,” Ferri is pleased to say. “Niklas immediately believed in the product and is the perfect person to represent Noova in Germany. 2023 is an important year for us.” The course is set.

Made in Italy: minimalist sneakers by Noova.

Several balls –or all shoes – in the air: label founder Enrico Ferri has an excellent instinct and great ambitions for Noova.

MILESTONE “INNOVATION AND ATTENTION TO DETAIL”

Founded in 1994 in the Bavarian city of Ingolstadt, Milestone has since devoted itself to further developing its jacket collection. Design, material, and workmanship are the focal points of the jacket manufacturer. A conversation with Michael Kienast, Milestone Sales Manager Men, about the journey to evolving into a global brand.

The symbiosis of technical innovation, fashionable design, and smart technology – how are these aspects implemented at Milestone?

We are always on the lookout for new techniques that allow us to create new looks. We developed a garment dyed look for the leather segment this season. This lends the leather jackets an absolutely unique appeal. Smart technologies are essential. Some time ago, we introduced Smartview360 as an order tool, or B2B programme, to visually present all

colour options to our customers. However, it is still important to us to display all pieces as samples in the showrooms to present feel and quality.

What sets you apart from other jacket manufacturers? What distinguishes Milestone collections?

Innovation and attention to detail. First and foremost, we strive to create a beautiful, valuable product. The price question is secondary. We deliberately decided not to operate exclusively in the charm pricing range. Product and fit come first.

How do you assess consumer behaviour given the current price increases in fashion retail?

I expect the first half of 2023 to be tough. Currently, no one knows exactly how the market will develop. However, I do not anticipate any major cuts in our price segment.

What steps are being taken to address current supply chain challenges?

We will continue to face delivery delays over the coming year. It will be 2024 by the time things will have eased up again. We have therefore decided to expand our pre-collection and order earlier. The pre-to-main ratio is now 50/50. We are ordering much earlier and in greater quantities than in previous years. We are assuming more risk in order to be able to deliver at the right time.

Milestone is sold in more than 30 countries worldwide. Does this mean the latest expansion phase is complete?

We have worked very hard on the Milestone brand over the last few years, adapting and developing further. These measures have attracted many new customers. We launched in the US in 2021 and are investing in existing markets to drive the Milestone brand forward.

Product first: Milestone has abandoned its charm pricing mindset and is now investing in highlight pieces.

Michael Kienast, Milestone Sales Manager Men, is responsible for brand development.

Text: Claudia Jordan. Photos: Milestone

MOULETA SUCCESSFUL PRODUCT

100 percent cashmere – sustainably produced. The scarves and shawls by Mouleta have been on a steep trajectory to success since their launch in 2018.

Owner Mark Etzold knows, however, that it takes more than that.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Mouleta

What exactly is the identity of Mouleta?

Mark Etzold, Managing Director of Mouleta and owner of the Agentur MNE: With Mouleta, we have developed a high-quality product of which we know exactly where and how it is produced. To this end, we collaborate with a small company in Kathmandu, where the scarves are produced from sustainably sourced cashmere under fair working conditions. We regularly verify this on site. You also run Agentur MNE. Are there any correlations?

Mouleta benefits from the fact that we run the brand as agency managers. Our experience and feedback from retailers are incorporated into the collection, meaning we know what is in demand. As a design team based in Düsseldorf, we are constantly on the lookout for special processing techniques, which we then explore with the manufacturer. This results in knitting patterns that are not available elsewhere on the market. Our price-performance ratio is equally unparalleled. Our best-selling hand-felted cashmere scarf weighs 155g. The purchase and retail price stand at 85 and 229 Euros respectively. It thus weighs a little more than usual, but it is also softer and more voluminous. We use durable yarn that does not pill as easily. What are the highlights of the coming season?

We are shifting Mouleta’s focus towards even more craftsmanship. Examples include super-light, double-felted scarves made of very finely twisted, digitally printed cashmere that feels even softer than usual. Particularly beautiful are hand-knitted scarves made of

interlinked knitted panels in different colours, as well as hand-woven multicolour scarves in balanced shades. On top of that, we have debuted hand-embroidered knitted scarves, featuring traditional symbols that reflect the Handmade in Nepal theme. We are now also expanding our range of highly innovative jumpers. The highlight is a cardigan for which up to 60 different panels are interlinked. What are the next steps?

We are well-positioned in the German-speaking market with 260 points of sale. We intend to cautiously build upon this foundation and continue to internationalise. Owing to our contacts, we have established an international network of agents within four years, presently comprising nine agents in 14 European countries. This expansion needs to go hand-in-hand with corresponding service. Our scarves in 20 NOS colours are always in stock, and we can also respond to individual colour requests above a certain volume within three weeks. We are delighted that all our customers return because they appreciate working shoulder-to-shoulder with us.

Cashmere knitwear from Nepal: Mouleta was presented with an award for sustainable production by the Nepal Cashmere Association.

Proud of Mouleta: Mark Etzold.

At a mark-up of 2.7, the collection’s retail prices range from 49 to 149 Euros.

ED HARDY ACTION AND ROCK’N’ROLL

The revival is on: Ed Hardy is to reclaim the German-speaking market after two test seasons, in partnership with sales agent and licensee Regis Benabou and his fashion agency Agentur MAB. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Ed Hardy

The superlatives are numerous. In the noughties, Ed Hardy was considered the biggest, most copied fashion brand. The label’s success was a global phenomenon. You are now announcing an Ed Hardy comeback in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland.

Regis Benabou, owner of Agentur MAB: Yes, we are convinced that Ed Hardy has what it takes to mount a major comeback in the German-speaking market. We love the brand. Founded by tattoo artist Don Hardy in LA, it still maintains his legacy and lifestyle today. Sales in the two test seasons surpassed our expectations. Now we are really cranking up the speed.

How does the Ed Hardy spirit live on today?

In a collection that is rich in detail, as is typical of the lifestyle brand. It comprises tees, sweats, trousers, and caps featuring sophisticated prints and intricate stitching with a rock’n’roll attitude. What makes us particularly happy is that Ed Hardy not only appeals to those who hailed the collection in the early 2000s, but also excites the younger target group of 20 to 30-year-olds. Today, Ed Hardy is controlled by Iconics Group. What makes the brand credible? The designers in Manchester are very cool rocker types who live the lifestyle and inject new authenticity into the brand. As a licensee for Germany, Austria, and Switzerland, we incorporate feedback from these markets to ensure Ed Hardy retains its spirit, but, at the same time, remains close to the market. I believe this aspect is even more important

today. In addition, the US and UK, where the cropped baby tees, sweats, and bomber jackets are already super popular, are driving the hype.

Where are you showcasing the collection? In our Düsseldorf showroom, where we have expanded the team for Ed Hardy and reserved an entire floor for the collection. There we also present the new Ed Hardy Blacklabel collection, featuring premium streetwear at retail prices between 99 and 388 Euros, which will be marketed even more selectively. In addition, we plan to show Ed Hardy at the Seek. However, it is not merely about fashion there – we aim to inspire with lifestyle. Anyone willing can get a tattoo done by famous artist Hannah Burger. Ed Hardy still embodies action and rock’n’roll. The fashion revival of the 1990s and 2000s provides an additional boost. It is fun to ride the wave!

Ed Hardy is back.

Regis Benabou plans to crank up the speed for Ed Hardy.

CINQUE GRANDEZZA, EASE, AND MODERNITY

More visibility, more fashion! Cinque embodies Italian passion and a distinctive sense of style. The brand now emphasises these attributes even more in its collection. The task at hand is to convey this message to the market.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Cinque, Peter Schaffrath

Tristan, much has changed at Cinque. You have implemented a number of projects. Could you elaborate on specifics?

Tristan Bolwin Brand Manager of Cinque: We have reorganised our sales department and recruited two new team players, Claudia Kessler and Jörg Krause. We have also finetuned the collections and further accentuated what Cinque represents: modern-casual authenticity with Italian grandeur. We are

approaching the new season in a stronger position.

Claudia Kessler, Head of Womenswear: Womenswear in particular has become more feminine and sophisticated. Last season, we started refocusing on our core competence by emphasising tailoring more. That is what we are good at! We have also upped the fashion level in order to position ourselves more firmly in the modern premium segment, with product groups that perform well.

Tristan Bolwin: Dresses and outerwear are great examples. Whereby Cinque no longer represents an individual product, but rather a lifestyle world including shoes and bags.

The use of high-quality fabrics is paramount. Cinque is positioned in the premium segment at entry-level prices.

Where does menswear rank?

Jörg Krause, Head of Menswear: Cinque is already distinctly positioned in the menswear segment. The product has evolved wonderfully and also appeals to the younger target group, for example with jersey suits,

performance stretch, and the courage to use more colour. We are particularly proud of this achievement. Yet here, too, we strive to increase brand visibility and grow both domestically and internationally.

Tristan Bolwin: In the Netherlands we are excellently positioned at De Bijenkorf, which opens doors in that market. We are equally well-established in Austria and Switzerland. Our focus now shifts to the Benelux markets and Scandinavia.

Aliki Tzourmbakis, Head of Marketing: The fact that we are showing more profile helps us. We are employing a more modern, more valuable visual language that returns to the brand essence. Our communication should convey the interplay of authenticity, movement, lifestyle, and modernity that we express in our campaigns - with the product in the foreground. It does not need a grand stage, but rather resonates through its wearers. We share this story via catalogues, image pictures, and social media – because it is worth telling.

More profile: fashion by Cinque.

A powerful team (from left): Jörg Krause, Aliki Tzourmbakis, Tristan Bolwin, and Claudia Kessler.

TATRAS FULL POWER

Tatras outerwear still enjoys somewhat of an insider’s tip status in the German-speaking market. Marketing manager Angelo D’Arcangelo is not the only one who thinks it is time to change that: with a new sales partner in Room Nine Agency and a product that truly reflects Japanese-Italian roots.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Tatras

Tatras is a brand from Japan, infused with Italian know-how. An exciting mixture! Could you elaborate on the background story?

Angelo D’Arcangelo, Marketing Manager of Tatras: The story begins in Japan in 2007, when the collection is developed jointly by three countries: Japan, Italy, and Poland. It combines the clean, formal lines of Japanese style, outstanding Italian workmanship, and

Polish excellence in goose down production techniques. Hence the name Tatras, which derives from the Tatra mountain range on the border between Slovakia and Poland, where duvets using some of the best goose down is made.

In 2014, Tatras became part of fabric specialist Yagi Group. With what effect? The takeover boosted sales in Asia and Europe. Our strongest markets today are Japan, Italy, and Korea. In its home country of Japan, Tatras is excellently positioned in department stores, four flagship stores, and in the specialised retail sector. We recently opened a showroom in Milan to advance our internationalisation in Europe. Tatras is currently sold in more than 350 stores, and now we strive to push this positive development even further.

By expanding in the German-speaking market, for example?

Yes, this market is highly attractive, which is why we launched the partnership with our new sales partner Torsten Müller of Room Nine Agency in Düsseldorf. Our brand philosophy aligns with the culture and style of

this market. So if we manage to tap into the German market first, that will certainly help us in other northern European countries as well.

Competition is fierce, especially in outerwear. What is Tatras’ USP?

We create luxurious down jackets that combine function and innovative design, manufactured in Europe using exclusive materials sourced from the best Japanese and Italian fabric manufacturers. Tatras gains additional exposure through collaborations with creatives from different backgrounds. They reinterpret Tatras’ DNA in their own way, with the idea of extending the concept not only to fashion, but also to design, music, art, and sports. The autumn/winter 2023 collection features Italian architect and designer Fabio Novembre. We plan to present a custom-made version of his famous Nemo chair alongside a capsule of six unisex down jackets designed by him personally. This collection draws its inspiration from Japan: from its culture to its unique sense of style. We are very much looking forward to presenting Tatras in Germany.

Angelo D’Arcangelo, Marketing Manager of outerwear brand Tatras.

Iconic styles, urban luxury: Tatras.

FAVOURITE PIECES AND EYE-CATCHERS

Feminine, self-confident, suited to everyday wear, and yet exceptional: the floer womenswear collection is full of surprises. It is tailor-made for stirring up assortments in the entry-level price range, both fashion-wise and visually. The brand is driven by an experienced duo whose combined expertise is precisely what makes Floer so exciting.

Text: Martina Müllner. Photos: Floer

I would like to propose a theory. This season will be by far the most exciting season in terms of womenswear collections that strike a balance between value and price, as price increases will squeeze some premium brands out of the market once they are priced too high. Am I being too provocative?

Mary Jägen, co-founder of floer: We believe fashion should be fun and exciting, without shocking you when you read the price tag. We are very strong in prints and graphic designs, so we allow ourselves the luxury of designing them exclusively for our label. Yet

we still manage to maintain our position in the entry-level price range for discerning retailers.

How do you achieve that?

Bart Steensma, co-founder of floer: I have been in production for many years, and I have a reliable network of production sites and sourcing points all over the world. These people enjoy working with us and we enjoy working with them – together it is achievable.

Cashmere, alpaca, viscose, silk, own prints – all in very feminine looks. Flowing qualities and flattering fits that are not tight, but instead look great on many women. Who is the archetypical floer woman?

Mary Jägen: A woman who has found her style, but who is too unconventional to wear standard looks. We break free from classic beauty ideals, taking care to offer dresses, trousers, blouses, and knitwear that look great even beyond size 38 and which attract compliments. floer is that little everyday luxury that is really fun to buy, not least because

our customers can see and feel that the price is realistic.

Is floer destined to be combined?

Mary Jägen: We prefer to leave that decision up to the customer. floer is definitely a collection that can enrich an already existing wardrobe on a seasonal basis. It works both ways: you can wear floer all-over or just pick out favourite pieces and combine them with other brands. At any rate, we are a collection that provides pleasant eye-catchers within the product ranges of our retailers. At least that is what our sales agent for Bavaria and Baden-Württemberg, Marion Hoferer, always tells us.

Specialist retailers with strong advice capability are the place to be for floer?

Bart Steensma: Absolutely, we have always worked on collections that only evolved into a brand in retail and we love this kind of approach to sales. We value the work that stores do immensely and are one hundred percent focused on supporting these champions where we can.

www.floer.fashion

FLOER

Floer is based in Mary Jägen’s adopted hometown of Stuttgart, yet the founding duo’s international network adds a touch of globality to the collection.

Worth its price: Floer is not stingy in terms of cost of goods, yet the brand manages to remain within the entry-level price range of the premium segment.

Production professional Bart Steensma is the second partner behind Floer.

A brand that has rediscovered its identity just in time for a milestone birthday – interpreted in a modern way. Now Oilily intends to win back the favour of retailers with joie de vivre and need-driven focus. Oilily owner Brecht Olsthoorn and E-Commerce & Marketing Manager Peter Sorber in conversation with style in progress.

Interview: Martina Müllner. Text: Veronika Zangl. Photos: Oilily

Oilily is a popular brand that evokes positive memories and emotions. How does the relaunch benefit from this image?

Brecht Olsthoorn, owner of Oilily: It is true that Oilily triggers plenty of happy memories. If I was paid for every time someone told me that they had a favourite Oilily piece that was passed on and became a favourite again, I would proba-

bly be rich. Recently, a lady even shared with me that she got married in an Oilily dress. She was still able to describe it down to the smallest detail, after all these years. That proves that Oilily was never average. These moments of happiness were also the starting point for my parents, who founded the brand as a team. It all started with colourful children’s clothes that were actually suited to children. Very much in contrast to the brown wave in which current children’s fashion wallows. My mother’s colourful approach worked so well that, at some point, the mothers also desired the children’s looks. So we started offering fashion for adults, yet always remaining true to our core values of colour diversity, creativity, craftsmanship, and sustainability. Tell us a little about what has happened at Oilily in recent years. How come the brand almost disappeared from the market for a while?

In fact, we are celebrating 60 years of Oilily this year, which is a great achievement in itself. However, like any other brand, Oilily had its ups and downs. My parents brought the company to the top with diligence. At some point, they wished to enjoy their lives, so they sold Oilily. After that, the brand lacked heart and soul. The new owner was probably interested in quick money, but they failed and were forced into administration. My father bought the brand back, and we seized this opportunity to translate the original values into the here and now. We intently questioned how we could adapt the cornerstones of the brand to be modern and contemporary, which has been an incredibly exciting journey. A key value is all the extra love we pour into every product. In our company, we have a catchphrase: oililyfied. Is there something special about the product? Does it stand out from the crowd? Does it evoke the oililyfied feeling?

The market is highly competitive at the moment. What is Oilily’s main selling point for retailers?

Our collections have a very unique and distinctive design language. We employ unusual fabrics, colours, and techniques, and ensure that

OILILY “RETAILERS ARE OUR HEROES”

“We want to be the queen of the niche,” says Brecht Olsthoorn, owner of Oilily, explaining the brand’s concept, which invests a great deal of time and energy in optimising retail processes.

our collections are as sustainable as possible. For example, we use recycled yarns, pure yarns, and organic cotton. Even our polyester is recycled. For a brand like Oilily, which is so focused on colour diversity, this is a real challenge. Yet the environment and fair cooperation have traditionally always been very important to us. The last aspect always strikes me as a bit strange. I was brought up to value other people and treat them accordingly. That has always been a matter of course for us, particularly in the case of our production sites in India, where we have been acquainted with the families involved for more than 40 years and know that everything is above board. Yet apparently that is not the case in every other business. We now also cooperate with an increasing number of production partners in Portugal, Spain, and Italy. This allows us to shorten the transport routes.

Peter Sorber, E-Commerce & Marketing Manager at Oilily: We always deliver on time, even during the pandemic we were always within time limits. We also collaborate closely with retailers, knowing that our success is based on theirs. Retailers are our heroes, for whom we facilitate a great deal. Sure, there is a higher margin in running that side of the business ourselves, but the brand is carried by the excellent, knowledgeable retailers who love what they do just as much as we do. That is one reason why we never launch a sale in our own online store before December.

Who is the archetypical Oilily woman in 2023? What is your approach in terms of fashion, design, and style?

We symbolise cheerfulness and joie de vivre, in clear contrast to the current mood and all the negative news. This is how we picture the Oilily woman: fun-loving and relaxed, with a positive attitude. She has certain values that she champions. She is more edgy than classic, prefers slow fashion to disposable garments, and enjoys standing out from the crowd. Her clothes underline her personality. This is the kind of woman we wish Oilily to appeal to.

Haptics and details play a pivotal role at Oilily, which is why the brand’s presence at independent retailers is so important.

INNOVATE OR DIE

Emerging from stagnation at high speeds – so necessary and overdue? Innovation emerges for many reasons: by chance as much as out of necessity, by new possibilities as much as the desire to disrupt traditions. Yet the most beautiful aspect is that it is always rooted in the dream of making the world a little better.

20 YEARS PREMIUM EMPATHY AS A SUPERPOWER

Depending on the perspective, 20 years represent either the blink of an eye or an era. When Anita Tillmann looks back on two decades of Premium, both seem to be true. However, the successful entrepreneur and mother of twin girls prefers to look into the future. As always, it was a great pleasure to do so together. A conversation about the role of trade shows in a completely new cycle, the power of consumers, and empathy as a superpower. Interview: Stephan Huber. Illustration: Tibo Exenberger@Caroline Seidler

years of Premium – what a journey! Surely, that must evoke strong feelings. Which ones?

Anita Tillmann, Managing Director of Premium Exhibitions: First of all, something almost akin to astonishment. How… 20 years??? It certainly does not feel like two decades. Not even when I look into the mirror. (laughs) Yet this time was so densely packed and breath-taking. So much has happened that I can hardly believe that it all fits into 20 years. I was privileged to experience, create, and learn so much – all while meeting so many incredible people. Maybe this anniversary is the right time to express gratitude for that.

Yes, I also consider the countless people who have shaped and enriched me and my path a great privilege. I remain convinced that our industry is full of exciting, funny, smart, and empathetic characters. Would you actually do it all again in exactly the same way? That seems to be a popular question for anniversaries.

Even with today’s knowledge and experience, I would still largely follow the same path again. Do not get me wrong, of course I have also made mistakes. Yet this is part of my development, both as a person and as an entrepreneur. I would always choose the path of being an entrepreneur again. Entrepreneurship and the courage to make risky decisions are simply in my blood. Much of it was a wild ride. Back then, when we took on a great deal of debt to buy the location at Berlin’s Gleisdreieck, my dad said: “If it goes wrong, you pack up your family and move back in with us.”

So, that was an all-in play? Completely all-in! Ultimately, however, it was a step that pointed the way forward for our development as a company! It made us much more self-determined. The fact that we have never experienced stagnation in these 20 years is probably also the reason why it is still so much fun. For example, I would always launch and

explore new formats. We first addressed the topic of sustainability in 2006 with the Green Area. FashionTech was – and is – a great content format. With The Ground, we have launched a format in which the boundaries between D2C and B2B blur and completely new storytelling ideas can be trialled. Then there is Seek, which developed into such a gem. It also serves as a prototype for our corporate culture, as it emerged from within the team. Marie-Luise Patzelt and Maren Wiebus anticipated this topic at a very early stage and simply wanted to give it a go. They were so convinced by the concept. Jörg and I trusted them and simply let them do their thing. It cannot be emphasised often enough how crucial a great team is for the success of a company. And we have a REALLY great team!

Yes, team is key! That also applies to style in progress. Naturally, 20 years have produced a whole host of absolute highlights. Which ones come to mind spontaneously?

Singling out highlights is a real challenge. The collaboration with Parley for the Oceans and Pharell Williams in 2013 is definitely one of them. That was such a global project. The first German Fashion Week, back then with Klaus Wowereit at the Brandenburg Gate, was also very special. Virgil Abloh joined us as a designer and DJ when he was still only recognised by insiders. Or David Fischer, who presented Highsnobiety at our first FashionTech. José Neves was an exhibitor at Premium before he became a global force with Farfetch. We have always served as a very lively and diverse platform for talent and creativity in the making.

I cannot resist contributing at least one very special anecdote from 25 years of style in progress at this point. It was actually still in the last millennium that I invented the cover story format “The Longview”, a visionary interview with an outstanding personality, mainly because I wanted to meet Massimo Osti and Francois Girbaud. I visited Osti in Bologna and enjoyed the great honour of being personally guided through his deservedly legendary archive. With

Girbaud, recording device in hand, I strolled through Paris at night, where he met all manner of buddies during the interview and occasionally disappeared. I have you to thank for a real highlight from my younger days. The perfectly correct summary of an absolutely extraordinary invitation: “I was in the hills of Florence with the Prince of Burma on an organic cannabis farm!” However, I mostly hoped to look into the future with you. As we know, it is wide open. Definitely, for those who actually relish this future and who are ready to face the challenges that a comprehensive change of era entails. That is exactly what we are living through right now. We are at the beginning of a new cycle that will redefine, at breath-taking speed to boot, much of what we have grown accustomed to over the years and decades. Constant change has always been a feature of the fashion industry, but the current dimension is something else altogether.

Can you explain this new cycle?

Albert Eickhoff passed away in November last year. He was undoubtedly the outstanding personality of a cycle that was coming to an end when we launched the first Premium in a derelict underground station, very much representative of Berlin, in 2002. For many years, the power and authority in fashion rested with the retail trade. Eickhoff personified this like no other. His judgement determined careers, set trends, and influenced styles. Then we witnessed the shift of this power to brands. Driven by globalisation and digitalisation, this opened up completely new communicative and economic opportunities. Then social media flipped the switch once again. Now we are in the midst of a transformation that is ushering in a whole new cycle. The age of the consumer. These consumers actually no longer need brands, at least not in the sense of blind devotion. Brands, on the other hand, need the consumers. They need their input and influence within their communities. In theory, customer centricity is nothing new. Yet today, it is crucial to really embrace it in practice.

The redefinition of the role of the consumer, from passive buyer to the centrepiece of a completely changed supply chain, even in terms of content, is indeed the decisive factor for the ongoing transformation. Data and knowledge flows in all directions nowadays.

Everyone influences everyone. Everything influences everything. Whereas the market used to be linear, it is now a circle. This forces all market participants to rethink. It is always a great challenge for us humans to leave familiar paths and explore new, perhaps still unexplored ones. Yet that is precisely what allows us to move forward. In this respect, fashion is once more a mirror of society.

Iwould like to work through this transformation with you based on a very concrete example that affects both of us – or our companies – very directly. Do we agree that we are witnessing the end of the seasons as we know them? Which also spells the end of rhythms as we know them? Simply because the consumer, in his new role and importance, will enforce the principle of “see now, buy now, wear now”?

We are in complete agreement. It is simply necessary to redefine the supply chain, not least for reasons of sustainability. We cannot go on like this, and I am not saying this from a moral perspective. Preaching is not my thing. However, it will become an economic necessity to handle resources and, above all, people differently. Business models based on the exploitation of our resources will become increasingly costly, and thus uneconomical. That is a very good development, by the way. It is all there. The technologies are available, the market is in place, and society is ready for this change. We should regain confidence in our creativity, in our ability to evolve, and in our capability to adapt intelligently to changing conditions. Am I saying that this is an easy thing to do? Of course not. This is without question a truly era-defining challenge. Yet if we perceive this as a chance, as an opportunity, and engage with a positive will to shape it, then we have so much to gain.

Is optimism the order of the day?

As we all know, nothing ever improved by complaining…

If the seasonal rhythm, which still largely determines the pace of the fashion industry, is a passing model, what implications does that have for Premium, or for trade fairs as we know them in general? And for style in progress for that matter…

We set out in 2002 with the vision of redefining fashion shows. If I may say so myself, we have succeeded in many respects. Now we are facing this challenge all over again. Not just since today, by the way. This is a process that we have long since begun, not least with the new formats I mentioned earlier, and which occupies us on a daily basis. The concept of a marketplace that brings people together to exchange ideas, trade, find or present new things, learn, or simply have fun will always be relevant. The question is how this marketplace can continue to function in the future, in the face of completely altered market conditions. We have to think ahead, provide impulses, and even challenge our partners. Conversely, we need to be open to feedback and ideas. That is what we are: a marketplace of ideas for ALL market participants. There is no doubt in my mind that we will still need this marketplace in the future, perhaps even more acutely than ever.

The concept that salespeople simply wait on the sales floor for buyers or customers to appear is outdated. This not only applies to trade shows, but it also no longer works in the retail trade either.

We need to find answers to this together. Many of our partners are actively addressing this issue and looking for new angles to present the brand. Drykorn and Baldessarini, for example, rely on activation. Conceived holistically, this results in a completely new added value that ideally combines B2B and D2C: from genuine content for social media to implementation at the point of sale with retail partners. This is what I consider contemporary brand management.

It is probably not as simple as it sounds. What is the secret ingredient?

Empathy! I now contend, and you know of my great assertiveness, that empathy is an essential quality or skill for the future of our industry. Empathy is the key to truly understanding communities.

Why do I get the impression that we are talking about The Ground the whole time?

Indeed, The Ground is the format in which much of what we are talking about comes together. Many people still erroneously describe it as an end consumer fair. It never was, and that was never the plan. Since we have already discussed new rhythms, The Ground will take place once a year in the summer. It reflects the transformation of the linear market I described earlier into an interactive circle in which all participants influence each other. We still have plenty to learn and develop on that front, by the way. However, The Ground is the spark for the next 20 years.

Do you feel under pressure, as some people seem to think?

Everyone is under some kind of pressure. Pressure is something that does not agree with me at all. Pressure does not lead us forward either. I prefer to focus on curiosity and empathy. Incidentally, we are all facing the same challenges. This not only concerns the trade fairs, but the entire industry and beyond.

Finally, a glance at the immediate future. What can we expect in Berlin in January?

Almost 500 great brands, and even more great people. Naturally, we intend to celebrate in a style befitting the occasion. After all, partying is one of our greatest talents!

TECH, BABY!

And just like that, it is possible! A huge portion of tinkering, a large amount of perseverance, and a healthy dose of imagination: innovation is rarely as revolutionary as it is in the tech sector. Standards are redefined, processes shortened, even completely new routines are invented. The surge of innovation that stems from the ones and zeros of this universe often remains unfathomable to our Neanderthal brains. All the more important, then, to embrace the thought exercise, nonetheless. Because one thing is clear: tech changes. Everything. And it does so regardless of whether we welcome or reject these innovations.

Manufacturing

Wild “WE STRIVE TO BREAK WITH STANDARDS”

How can on-demand avoid overproduction on a grand scale? The creators of dress label Sophia Malina Wild have developed a model that is future-proof and could revolutionise fashion production.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photo: Sophia Malina Wild

Sophia Malina Wild’s fashion is all about personalisation. What precisely do you do differently from your competitors?

Katja Schwarz, co-founder of Sophia Malina Wild: We have developed a unique technology that allows our label to switch the production process to on-demand. It allows women to customise dresses to their own liking, ensuring a perfect fit. For this purpose, we have digitised our designs and fabrics for our web shop. With the help of our customisation tool, customers can simply design their own dress online and offline and view it in a 3D avatar: top, sleeves, skirt, and fabric. We only manufacture what the customer orders. In addition, we produce every dress to individual measurements. This is something that has so far only existed in menswear, but not in the high-quality, modern womenswear segment. The customer creates a measurement profile consisting of eight different measurement points. We strive to break with outdated standard sizes, as women’s bodies are much more individual than that. For example, someone who has a bust size of 36 can have a waist size of 32.

You are now also offering this dress-to-measure technology to fashion retailers.

Yes, we have already launched a pilot project in partnership with a fashion house. The idea is to allow customers to design made-to-measure clothing according to their measurements and individual wishes using an iPad, with the assistance of on-site staff. Samples are presented to demonstrate the materials and illustrate possible variations. The personalised dress can then be collected from the store three weeks later. I am convinced that more retailers will follow. In addition, we also offer dress-to-measure as a SaaS business model for fashion brands. They can apply the technology to their own e-shops, as well as to their production processes. The resource savings would be enormous, meaning this kind of customisation could set new standards in the fashion industry.

Sophia Malina

Smart concept for feminine dresses on demand: Sophia Malina Wild. The high-quality Italian fabrics, sourced from surplus materials, provide even more individuality.

takes place in a female-run production facility in Romania, which has received an award for sustainability.

Sophia Malina Wild (right) and Katja Schwarz are the founders of Sophia Malina Wild.

Dalith Steiger runs SwissCognitive in partnership with her co-founder Andy Fitze. The international consulting firm helps companies unlock the potential of cognitive technologies.

“TECH MAKES FASHION MORE SUSTAINABLE”

Dalith Steiger is a consultant and advocate of change. At the forefront of digital disruption, the Swiss entrepreneur with Israeli roots champions a new understanding of added value through digital fashion and AI.

Interview: Martina Müllner.

Photo: SwissCognitive/Remo Neuhaus

Dalith, could you expand on what AI can bring to fashion in an elevator pitch?

Dalith Steiger, founder of SwissCognitive: There are different levels. On the one hand, AI is already actively contributing to research into new fabrics and materials, and the innovation level in this field never ceases to amaze me. We are also already familiar with wearables that collect data, which then leads to AI-driven insights. In the case of some diseases, for example, this can bring about a decisive improvement in the lives of patients. The third aspect involves all applications where AI helps to increase efficiency and improve resource utilisation. Concrete examples are the minimisation of waste in the cutting process, or optimised energy usage in all phases of pre-production.

How difficult is it for an industry like fashion, which is driven by individual creativity, to accept the idea that AI can, for example, deliver superior sales or trend forecasts?

I believe we need to change our mindset in this respect. Intelligent listening and predictive use of data make genuine, effective influencing possible. The new buzzword is trendselling. Tools to predict which item will create demand, and even the volume involved, are already available. The key to sustainability is to not produce the things that will not sell.

Could you elaborate on that?

Take clothes for pregnant women as an example. Here, sales planning could be extrapolated precisely. What we still need to achieve is

that customers feel it is worthwhile to make their data available. Convenience and data protection are still obstructing each other at the moment. In other words, the degree of personalisation that would be possible is not yet conceivable for data protection reasons. Data protection issues are one stumbling block, but are creatives themselves not also sceptical about too much data paternalism?

The current generation certainly is, yes. Yet today’s students already understand that new technology can only inspire their creativity. The possibilities of 3D visualisation alone, creation through text to image or 3D printers, are already impacting aesthetics. And last but not least, the prospect that things no longer need to be physical or real is pretty good news for creatives, is it not? The Metaverse says hello.

Can we expect creativity to flourish?

Not everything that is possible will be implemented. Economic objectives play a part. At the end of the day, convenience determines whether something becomes commonplace and sets new standards – or remains a one-off gimmick.

Any predictions as to which area will change most rapidly?

The user experience of online stores will take a giant leap forward due to advances in rendering, visualisation, communication, animation, and VR. These technologies will make it possible to reproduce the individuality that we associate with stationary retail online. Both the product and communication will be personalised. This will unlock the scope to inspire and engage customers online to the same extent as in physical interactions.

SwissCognitive

THE FUTURE IS NOW

Let’s get phygital! Anne-Liese Prem and Stephan Huber met Frank Fitzgerald, founder of pax.world and metameet, for an interview at Paxworld.

HOW THE METAVERSE BROADENS THE ABILITY TO CONNECT WITH COMMUNITIES

Frank Fitzgerald has spent most of his life innovating and securing digital spaces. Now, he is aiming to make the budding virtual spaces of the metaverse more accessible, grown-up, and full of opportunities for businesses, but also places where true connections can blossom. Brand strategist Anne-Liese Prem, an expert on future trends, is also with us in his metameet world. Together we want to find out what the metaverse has to offer the fashion industry in concrete terms and what possible business models might look like. Interview: Stephan Huber, Anne-Liese Prem. Text: Georgmaria Prock

Stephan Huber: It seems like we are looking into the future right now, a future where interviews, business meetings, trainings, and such will take place in the metaverse. Is this the future?

Frank Fitzgerald: That’s why we started building this a long time ago, yeah it absolutely is. We’ve been sitting in 2D for so long that it’s a natural transition to 3D, especially with the younger generations that are now moving forward. They’re much more comfortable in these environments. Once you move towards a 3D environment, where you can choose who to talk to in a large group, or bump into new people that you didn’t know you were going to have a conversation with, it’s amazing how much value that provides.

Stephan Huber: Jumping back to the present. Could you briefly explain to us what you’re doing? metameet and pax.world, what are they exactly about?

Frank Fitzgerald: What we’re actually building with pax.world and releasing at the end of this year is revolutionary, from the size of the world’s lands to the customization. Users can create their own environments and online systems, where they can put up new images and brand their world in the way they want, but all without having to program anything. You can run this right through the web, your phone, eventually also in VR, and can customize those worlds just like you would with a simple online tool browser for a website. Doing it for a 3D space is really powerful, and we’re going to have something that’s so simple to use that you can either use one of our templates or just upload a 3D model of a world and auto-set it with a couple of scripts. And that’s the revolutionary technology that we’re setting out. It’s not just using someone else’s world or someone else’s platform, it’s using your own platform.

Stephan Huber: Right now, metaverses are mushrooming. One of the most important aspects in the near future will be to get an idea of the direction it’s heading. So, what’s the special USP?

Frank Fitzgerald: We basically have two systems in place. One is pax.world that I already mentioned, which is a web 3 token-based system, for NFTs, creations, and

enhancements. And then we have metameet, which is our non-web 3 business platform, metaverse as a service. They’re both intertwined and integrated from an interoperability perspective. Right now, there are a lot of businesses out there that aren’t ready to take that leap into the NFT space, but they do see the value of the metaverse and begin training their employees, their people, and their customers on what is to come in the metaverse in the future. And that’s why we set up metameet, which allows you to utilize very similar technologies, but do it in a non-web 3 fashion. So, it’s all about a transition phase, of being able to customize those areas for exactly what your needs as a business are.

Stephan Huber: Speaking about business. As you know, I am in the fashion industry. Almost everybody seems to talk about the metaverse or seems to be super excited, but some – and they’re some of the most intelligent people that I know in this business – say: ‘Okay. Super exciting, the future, no question, but what’s the business model?’ So, is there an answer to that?

Frank Fitzgerald: So, often people come to us and they just say: ‘I want to be in the metaverse.’ My first question to them is always: ‘What do you want to do in the metaverse and what is your purpose for being in the metaverse?’

There are all sorts of different things, like the web 3 side of doing NFTs and combining the virtual digital ownership piece. But then there’s also consumer engagement and community building, which is huge with brands, because if you have a system that allows people to interact, to talk about your specific brand with each other, or to have your employees interact directly with them in a non-planned way, you actually create huge value for the underlying system. Right now, they say if people are in the metaverse or they actually have a technical play in the metaverse, there’s a much bigger brand awareness, and it makes that brand look technically savvy and forward-looking. A lot of what we’re doing right now as well is even linking web 2 with web 3. In these spaces, you can throw up your image banner, your information about your product, and you can link off directly to a store. So, you can do traditional markets, but you can also do in-game purchasing as well.

Anne-Liese Prem: What I was interested in, which devices are you basing this on? Now we’re on our desktops, on our laptops, using the metaverse. Will it be VR (Virtual Reality) glasses, or where are you taking it to?

Frank Fitzgerald: I actually built this initially on VR. What I found very quickly is people don’t want to be in VR for more than 20 minutes, they get fatigued very quickly. Also, 2 percent of households currently have a VR headset and the average use time of that is about 17 minutes per session. Even this interview would be too long to do in VR with today’s technology. That’s why we moved to a system you had to download, and then we realized half the companies won’t allow you to do that, right? Or people just don’t want to install something on their computer. That’s why we moved to the web, because it’s simple to use. I get people in with just a link. Being able to link it into the underlying phone systems, as well, was huge for us, because that’s how most people actually spend their time on the web at the moment.

Anne-Liese Prem: That makes it very easily accessible.

Stephan Huber: You were describing multiple business models. My readers are mostly fashion retailers, from big department stores to small family businesses. I see a huge openness towards the metaverse among them, and an awareness that this is the future, but they don’t know what’s in it for them. Maybe we can describe a little how they can take their first steps, how they can adapt to this new technology and vision.

Frank Fitzgerald: Many of your readers probably know about the opportunities for the fashion industry inside the metaverse, from being able to upload a model of yourself and then see what you look like in a particular fit, being able to NFT your online fashion bag and hold it in the real world as well as the metaverse, being able to have avatars switch out clothes... those are all really great business models that are flashy right now. The biggest thing that is currently being developed is retail spaces for stores. What do I mean by that? What we are creating and actually currently prototyping is being able to go to a store and actually view it, see the real-world store, what it looks like, and then get directly connected to the people in the actual store who can show you around or answer your questions. So, as you walk into that area, each person in the store has their own app that immediately alerts their device. And the first employee who picks up can now have a video chat and talk to that customer. What does that mean from a retail business perspective? It means that my wife, during the French sale season in June, can go to the Champs-Élysées and actually go shopping at stores there without having to be there in person or speak to someone in French. Now you broaden the ability to connect with communities, and the retail potential that’s outside of the general geographic area of a physical store. And I think that’s one of the biggest things that you can do in the fashion retail industry, being able to have that customer service representative who may just be sitting around the store at the moment, doing nothing, all of a sudden be notified and now be able to show someone around in the metaverse of their actual store.

Stephan Huber: That’s also a huge upgrade to this job. We are always discussing how to interest young people, Gen Z and then Gen Alpha, in working in a store or

becoming its manager. And now there are totally new perspectives. So, would you agree that it’s super important to understand that the metaverse is a phygital idea?

Frank Fitzgerald: Exactly. And, many stores are tourist destinations, right? So, as I am walking down a street in the metaverse that replicates a real-world street, I may be doing that because I’m going there next week, or next month, and I want to see what stores there are. Having that sort of walk-through feature, and maybe even talk to someone, to ask questions about the stores or what’s in there, what’s in retail at the moment at that specific store, means that next week, when I’m in Paris or Dubai, I can go pick it up. I think that is a huge new value added to what’s actually happening in retail spaces.

Anne-Liese Prem: That’s amazing. So, brands can come to you and say: ‘Can you set up my store?’ or ‘Can you set up my replica, or even make it more creative?’. Put logos in there, my products in there, and then people talk to each other. There are lots of functionalities that make the shopping experience more immersive, no?

Frank Fitzgerald: When I go to a store online right now and I browse different items, I’m not doing it with a friend, and if I am, I’m doing it via a zoom call on the side. While we’re talking with someone in the metaverse, we can say let’s go to the store together, and now we can look at the different items and browse through them together. And then when they say: ‘Hey, wasn’t this from last season?’, they can actually ask that question to someone working in that store. That is where you’re going to get this huge value add of interacting with that customer and driving that sale to fruition.

Stephan Huber: That really is an amazing perspective, because for me and for my community it’s so important to understand that the metaverse is not a kind of counter idea, but that it includes us. Let’s take an example. Someone is planning their winter holiday at their usual place, and they definitely have their favorite shop there. In the future, it will be possible to visit the shop before, and make conversation, and also say: ‘Hey, can you tell me how the snow is at the moment? Because I’m coming next week.’ It’s taking the private connection that you have when you’re in the store into this new area.

Frank Fitzgerald: That’s a perfect example. I love to snowboard, so if I was going down to Zermatt next month and I was thinking about getting a snowboard or a jacket, I may not want to take that with me on the train. And that way I can go and see a store down in Zermatt, talk to them, and see if they have what I need, as well as the extra things I’m not even thinking about. And if they don’t, they can make sure that it arrives at that store. Then I just show up at the store and it’s there. It’s harder to do that on just a web 2 interface, where I just sit there, look at the site, and don’t have that interaction with the salesperson, and most likely end up doing it here.

Anne-Liese Prem: Making a web 2 e-commerce site more immersive is exactly where the next generations are heading towards, because they’re not going to be happy with a shop where they can just see a two-dimensional product. So, I think these are great applications for the fashion industry, and for the future of the fashion industry as well.

Frank Fitzgerald: I completely agree. I always say this is like when I see a website from 1997 and when I get prompted for credit card information, I’m like: ‘I’m not putting my credit card in there, because I don’t trust it.’

And I really see a scenario in ten years where my kids are going to be 25 years old, 26 years old, and they’re going to go to some website and it’s going to be two-dimensional and look like Amazon does today. They’re going to go: ‘I’m not sticking my credit card in that.’ And that’s just consumer psychology over time.

When you see people going: ‘Oh well, is this 2 trillion, 3 trillion-dollar fantasy really coming to fruition?’, then my answer is: ‘It absolutely is.’ It’s just a matter of time. We’re not going to be sitting in two-dimensional views of the world for the next 20 years. It’s just a matter of when is the time, how do we get everyone educated, and, you know, just people learning to actually walk around in the 3D space. My kids have no problem with it, anyone under the age of 25 knows exactly what to do.

Stephan Huber: So in the end, my question whether a company should already address the topic now is already answered in a way, because it’s not starting somewhere in the future. It’s starting right now and everybody, also small businesses, should now take the opportunity to find entry into the metaverse, their metaverse business model.

Frank Fitzgerald: Yeah. I mean, absolutely. It’s all about a learning process, right? A lot of people say we’re in the nineties right now with the dawn of the internet and what’s happening with web 3, where they compare it to social media early on. We’re probably a year or so off from the adoption of what we saw with websites in the 1990s. But I think from a social aspect, from the general community sense or of the adoption of that technology, it’s more a rate similar to what we see in social media, where there was a very quick adoption rate. And so, if you add all of those together, you can probably graph out that line of where it really becomes mainstream.

Stephan Huber: If we now take it back to your company. When you think into the future and into this future of the metaverse you described, where do you see pax. world?

Frank Fitzgerald: Well, when I look at pax.world as it moves forward, my true vision is to create a more mature space for people to interact in, so that we can have a serious conversation and not be a wizard or mage running around the system, but, you know, actually us. I think that’s what pax.world is for me, a space for having more adult conversations inside the metaverse. But even when I’m going to a concert or something inside pax.world, Red Hot Chili Peppers, for example, I’m not getting dressed up as a wizard as I go in there.

Dancing in the street… on my way to the meeting.

Frank has been a CTO and consultant in the technology industry for over 20 years and has won several innovation and start-up awards. For the past five years, he has worked on the Metaverse platform pax.world, which is used by adults for business, entertainment, and shopping. With a Wall Street background in asset management, Frank understands the needs of businesses. With pax. world, he offers a customised and simple journey into Web 3.0 and the Metaverse.

What I want to do is go in there wearing my nice piece that I just got from Hugo Boss and actually look nice on my system.

Stephan Huber: So, it’s a reality, but you can enhance this reality in any way you feel or like.

Frank Fitzgerald: Yeah, exactly. I can enhance this reality, have crazy sunglasses, spike my hair up, or do something weird like that. And you can set it up that way. But I’d also like to just go in as me, with a real replica of who I am, in a space for adult conversations.

Anne-Liese Prem: For me, the big takeaways from these conversations are that we’re early, but at the same time we’re not. So, if you are a fashion brand and you have nothing to do with the metaverse yet, what are your three tips on how to get closer and learn about it?

Frank Fitzgerald: So, what we’re doing with a lot of companies is holding their hand as they enter the metaverse, as much as possible. It’s all about getting your people inside the metaverse, understanding what’s possible throughout different metaverses that exist today. What are the capabilities that exist? Where are the problems that are there right now? What will be solved and what won’t be in the near future? And you can get a good feel for that just by experiencing some of these places and really seeing what fits with your brand style as well. There are different art technologies, different graphics levels.

There is also just an education of what these things cost. The fact of the matter is, when you take something that’s flat and you put it out into three dimensions and create a world, it probably involves three times the cost. And that’s just the reality of the effort, work, and modeling that actually has to take place in order to make stuff really good at an excellent quality level. We’re trying to make that more inexpensive for everyone. But at the same time, I think it’s also about understanding different technologies. In our presentations, you might see photorealistic images, the most beautiful things in the world. And what you don’t realize, it costs a dollar per user per hour to actually run. So, when you’re running for 50,000 people, you run 1,000,000 US Dollars a day in server costs. We do it in a different way,

as we’re actually running on client-side rendering. So, if you’re looking for a persistent metaverse that’s always there, always available for everyone to go into, that’s the only cost-economical way to do it. If you want to run a one-hour event for 10,000 people and are happy to go spend 40,000 US Dollars to do it, server-side rendering might be the way to go. Understanding those different cost structures and the measures to make your business model correct and profitable is very key. It’s those education pieces that we need to get out there.

Stephan Huber: Amazing. Also, beyond what I expected. I was really hoping for a perspective for my core readership, and now there is such a clear perspective. As I said in the beginning, there is a super clear awareness everybody has, but to understand: ‘Hey, there’s something in it for me also. I just have to be interested and have to have the right people around me.’ That’s a really important message.

Frank Fitzgerald: Because the metaverse is so new, there are so very few people with experience, who know what the social interactions are, what the technology is, and where it’s going. So, they say: ‘I’m going to go out and hire a metaverse person.’ And it turns out that person has very little knowledge as well. But that’s going to change over time. So, people are getting better educated, moving further and quicker. Everyone wanted that to happen this year for them, not realizing it takes time to hire people, gain expertise, and move these projects forward at a faster level, which is what we’re trying to help companies do.

Stephan Huber: I would advise many companies out there: ‘Hey, take a good look at your people, at your staff right now. There might be someone young, someone talented, who is only waiting for something like this to happen. Are they listening? Is this their field? Go for it. But take me with you, because I need you to help me understand it, too.’

If you want to see and hear the interview in full… follow the QR code!

ENERGETIC CRISIS RECOVERY

Cheap electricity, readily available gas, and low transport costs fuelled a truly bizarre version of globalisation. The impression that everything is always available in unlimited quantities in every corner of the world has suddenly come to an end. Every kilowatt, every cubic metre, and every mile count, especially when they can be saved. The scarcity of resources and energy encourages a return to more efficient management. It makes re-shoring just as attractive as it propels long available solutions to the fore. Finally!

Return to Germany: In Sulzbach-Rosenberg, Hiltl has converted its former distribution centre into a high-tech manufacturing facility with a strong focus on innovation. Examples include shaped waistband pick-up by split or continuous production, automatic pocketing or piping machines, and bonding systems for stitch-free processing.

Hiltl

“A TURNAROUND BASED SOLELY ON NUMBERS DOES NOT

WORK”

Revitalised is a term that rarely applies so aptly to both a brand and its manufacturing plant as it does in the case of trouser specialist Hiltl. In Sulzbach-Rosenberg, Bavaria, the brand has invested 3.1 million Euros in a high-tech manufactory, thus proving that re-shoring is possible. Text: Martina Müllner. Photos: Hiltl

Did Hiltl emerge stronger from the crisis?

Gerhard Kränzle, CEO of Hiltl Hosen-Manufaktur: I joined the company as a result of a crisis that Hiltl had been facing for several years. The owner at the time had brought me in to assess Hiltl’s future viability. As is often the case in such circumstances, experts initially focused on cost reduction and job cuts. At a meeting with the banks shortly thereafter, I explained that a turnaround solely based on numbers does not work. I made clear that the brand needs to be made more attractive, too. I was always optimistic about revitalisation. Hiltl has a DNA that aligns perfectly with the zeitgeist. From the outset, I considered redefining and recharging this brand as the best chance to reposition the company as a whole.

You arrived in 2019, and then the lockdown happened…

In hindsight, the timing was very fortunate. We suddenly had an unprecedented amount of time to develop a new mission statement for the brand, focusing on sustainability, heritage, and tradition. Besides chinos, we wanted to liven up the product range with colour, denim, and 5-pockets. When our investor unexpectedly withdrew funding commitments, we were forced to file for insolvency in 2020. Yet that turned out to be our second stroke of luck. We were presented with an opportunity to push ahead with our realignment within the framework of self-administration. Then we quickly

found an investor who fully supports our approach in the form of Lorea AG.

How has the market reacted to the reorientation?

Our first new collections were extremely well received by our retail partners. We were able to add around 60 new retail floors by the end of 2022. Our agents and trade partners abroad – especially in the US, Belgium, Scandinavia, and the DACH countries – are also performing very well.

Tell us more about your high-tech manufactory… We can now once more manufacture up to 500 pairs of trousers a day at the Sulzbach-Rosenberg site. The process is lean and extremely efficient, uniting chino, wool, and denim in one production line. We helped develop the machinery, and some of it was built specifically for us. Partial automation supports our employees. They are interconnected online, and manual tailoring is refined and perfected with high-tech equipment. In future, a significant percentage of manufacturing can take place in Sulzbach-Rosenberg.

Also on-demand?

Definitely, we are now in a position to manufacture repeat orders at short notice. In terms of sample collections, it is invaluable to have these 600 square metres of production in-house, on the same plane as design, sales, our showroom, and back office.

Gerhard Kränzle has found his calling as CEO of Hiltl. With the backing of a trustworthy investor, Austrian Lorea AG, he has overhauled the trouser manufacturer’s product and brand.

BACK TO THE ROOTS

Prato Circular City – is the name of the ambitious plan of the city of Prato to transition from a primarily linear to a circular economy. The Tuscan city is essentially returning to its roots. Prato has been known as the city of the cenciaioli, the rag sorters who have always been recyclers par excellence, for more than 200 years. Precisely because the city is a major production centre for the textile and clothing industry, Prato has characteristics that are particularly suited to making the transition to a circular economy through innovation and sustainability. The city intends to set an example of harmonious coexistence, intelligent use of space, and sustainable production processes. The three main pillars of the strategy are innovation in production processes, urban regeneration, and reinforcement of social cohesion. www.pratocircularcity.it/en

Rifò

“OUR CASHMERE IS COMPETITIVE”

Rifò was launched in 2018 as a sustainable label. How have you experienced the first five years?

Niccolò Cipriani, co-founder of Rifò: I experience Rifò as a great adventure, which allows me to completely rediscover a textile district (the one in Prato) and a profession (that of entrepreneur). We have evolved from an idea that started with crowdfunding to a company that now has 15 employees. We have grown rapidly in the last five years, and I am delighted that we succeeded in consolidating our values such as quality, sustainability, and responsibility.

How difficult is it to manufacture a product from 100 percent regenerated or regenerable fibres?

It is not easy to produce a 100 percent recycled product of good quality, as it requires a great deal of experience and expertise in selecting the right fibres. We are very often forced to add organic or raw fibres to the recycled fibres, because the product we manufacture would not be sufficiently resistant without it. This applies in particular to cotton, which is a short fibre in itself. Costs are also a factor, of course, and these depend on the raw material. Our cashmere is competitive. Our cotton unfortunately is not, as the raw fibre is simply too low-priced.

How worthwhile is it to recycle and regenerate during an energy crisis?

The cost of recycling, for example for a pair of jeans, depends on the selection, the subsequent processing into fibres, and – ultimately – the yarn.

It is a mechanical process that requires energy, but less than manufacturing with virgin fibres. The energy crisis impacts recycled fibres as well, but the fact that they are not dyed, for example, results in considerable gas and electricity savings.

A future based on historical knowledge: Prato.

Curiosity is part of the success formula: Marco Lanowy.

Alberto “KNOWLEDGE IS THE FIRST PREREQUISITE FOR INNOVATION”

How do innovations come about? If Marco Lanowy has his way, through playful curiosity. Initiating new processes and immersing himself in them is one of the Alberto CEO’s passions – culminating in the perfect product. Yet that is only the beginning. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photo: Alberto

These challenging times make innovation more essential than ever. Can you name one especially disruptive change that has transformed the brand?

Curiously, there was or is no such single dramatic moment, as we are always in a state of change. Being a specialist in particular, we continuously focus on improving processes and products. The current challenge is the energy crisis, which affects all areas. We are constantly rethinking all related processes, right down to the smallest details.

Could you provide us with an example?

We have been looking into ways of saving energy and water in jeans manufacturing for quite some time. Our factories already employ special filter systems, yet we wanted to accomplish more. We developed our bike jeans Born & Finished in collaboration with Mönchengladbach-based start-up 140 Fahrenheit: designed in Mönchengladbach, manufactured in Romania, and refined in Mönchengladbach – with reduced energy and water usage. What we developed here in a lab-like setting is now an integral part of the Alberto collection.

Is this an attempt to relocate more production capacity to Germany?

Reshoring is not a panacea; we thrive on globalisation and its innovation. Yet developing individual concepts here while helping to shape the learning curve is something I really enjoy. We recently launched the Barista trousers, featuring incorporated coffee charcoal particles that have a moisture-regulating effect. With this in mind, we have developed our own espresso edition in partnership with premium coffee roaster Samyju. This illustrates our playful approach and is also a clever way of communicating the new concept to customers. If you buy the trousers, you also get the espresso.

What are you currently working on?

One of the things we are working on is how to recycle resources, because many fabric innovations contain high-tech yarns that are difficult to upcycle. This process is initiated by us as a hub via the University of Applied Sciences Niederrhein, in order to find a solution for reusing as much material as possible. Many small building blocks are involved in positioning ourselves as an innovative brand. In order to initiate innovation at all, however, know-how is the primary prerequisite – both that of our production partners and our team. We laid off no one during the pandemic, as accumulated knowledge enables in-depth reflection in all areas. We are also exploring how to save even more energy within our company, looking into the smallest details once more. We are currently in a kind of participation phase, during which everyone can contribute their ideas. I would say this phase has never been more exciting and inspiring.

Algaeing THE ALGAE REVOLUTION

How can Algaeing be a revolutionary innovation for the environment?

Renana Krebs, CEO Algaeing: We create 100 percent biodegradable textile solutions. Our patented formulas harness the power of renewable algae to replace toxins and chemicals across the supply chain, which protects biodiversity and improves working conditions. Estimates suggest that Algaeing solutions could, compared to conventional textile production, potentially save 2,700 million litres of polluted water in 2030. In addition, our products offer skincare properties, creating a whole new category within the fashion industry. We recently launched our Algaeing Green Series collection, which is based on biodegradable green hues. The algae tones eliminate another harmful step of the textile manufacturing process. That is a major milestone on our journey! Algae are hailed as the resource of the future in the EU, yet algae farms are capable of causing huge ecological problems. Does this mean algae are not a mass-compatible solution? We partner with sustainable algae growers who

utilise 100 percent closed-loop farming methods. They, for example, grow algae in the middle of the desert, where land is harder to populate. They rely on solar energy, as well as salty or desalinated water, to reduce water and energy consumption while using less traditional agricultural land. When sourced in this way, algae can be a solution for the masses.

ISKO TEST LAB

A development hub that allows customers to experiment with new ideas on the spot? Denim specialist Isko now makes this possible. Following the launch of the first Creative Room in London, the opening in Stade took place in September. Here, B2B customers can not only view new material developments, but also test special washing and finishing techniques in collaboration with machine technology partner Jeanologia. This enables them to create the denim look they want and produce it in small batches. Another objective of the Creative Room is to make processes even more efficient and sustainable. One example is Isko’s patented recycling technology, which allows recycled denim fibres to be used for new garments. www.iskodenim.com

Algae from the desert? Algaeing makes it possible.

The Creative Room Germany offers B2B customers the opportunity to test new techniques in the field of denim.

EVRNU CIRCULARITY

Textile waste is rich in untapped natural resources. The challenge is how to harness them. Christopher Stanev and Stacy Flynn, the founders of Evrnu, have explored this issue in detail and found their answer in NuCycl. The technology platform converts pre- and post-consumer waste into pristine new fibres that have both performance and environmental advantages over virgin fibres. “Our goal is to create a completely circular textile ecosystem that includes textile waste in the supply chain, replacing the need for virgin fibres,” says CEO Stacy Flynn. “This makes it easy for the consumer to participate in the circular model, thus preventing the incineration of used textiles.” www.evrnu.com

Browzwear MORE AGILE, MORE RESILIENT

Why is your software a gamechanger in fashion production?

Sharon Lim, CEO Browzwear: From a business perspective, fashion is an incredibly difficult field. Profit margins are painfully tight, while wastefulness – in time and material resources – is rampant. Estimates suggest that a mere 16 percent of produced garments are sold at full price, and more than half are never sold at all. Our technology facilitates more sustainable operations, both economically and environmentally. The centrepiece of the Browzwear SaaS platform is a true-to-life 3D engine that is capable of streamlining processes and accelerating market launches.

What are the advantages of 3D implementation?

During the design phase, 3D is infinitely more efficient than a seemingly endless back and forth of sketches. Browzwear allows teams to collaborate and make changes in real time. Subsequently, the technology can be used to streamline communication across the entire value chain. As soon as everyone has the capacity to visualise garments in realistic detail, it dramatically reduces errors during production. Beyond that, collections can be sold without producing a single garment.

What are potential stumbling blocks? Some people are reluctant or afraid to embrace change. Yet the pandemic has revealed just how vulnerable the fashion industry is, and how negative the impact of inefficiencies across the entire supply chain can prove. It also demonstrated that businesses that have already undergone their digital transformation have become more agile and resilient.

www.browzwear.com

The Browzwear technology enables economically and ecologically sustainable operations – across the entire value chain.

NuCycl is a technology platform that converts textile waste into new fibres.

HeiQ AeoniQTM “THE GOAL IS TO ENSURE NOBODY INVESTS

IN

POLYESTER PRODUCTION BY 2035”

Has Swiss company HeiQ invented the panacea for climate protection in fashion? HeiQ AeoniQ™ is designed to replace petroleum-derived polyester. The yarn is as robust as polyester, but made from non-wood, biodegradable cellulose. It can be dyed, processed with conventional machines, and re-spun over and over again. However, HeiQ CEO Carlo Centonze does not see recycling polyester as a viable solution for the fashion industry for now.

Interview: Petrina Engelke, Photos: HeiQ AeoniQ™ So far, HeiQ has primarily developed finishing technologies for the textile sector. What prompted you to invent a new type of yarn?

Carlo Centonze: The idea for HeiQ AeoniQ™ was actually born out of a failed project. One of our outdoor customers had asked us to develop a technology to prevent microfibre abrasion of fleece during washing. We managed to reduce it by 40 percent, but before the technology was introduced to the market, we both questioned whether we were really

A polyester shirt smelling of sweat prompted Carlo Centonze to team up with Murray Height in 2005 to develop future technologies for textiles. As CEO of their company HeiQ, Centonze benefits from his family’s entrepreneurial spirit. They own the 109-year-old Ticino-based chemical and energy supplier ECSA Group.

solving the problem. We soon realised that we were only delaying it. To truly solve the acute environmental problem of polyester microfibres, we need a polymer that is biodegradable. Cellulose is, in fact, the most widely available biopolymer in the world. Current cellulose processes, however, do not come close to the performance level of synthetic fibres. That is why we required a completely new manufacturing process. Which obstacles do you anticipate on your way to replacing polyester fabrics with a more climate and environmentally friendly alternative?

Three dimensions are essential: price, performance, and raw materials. The most important is price. At 1.50 and 1.60 US Dollars per kilogram, polyester is a very cost-effective fibre. After all, it is produced in enormous quantities, around 80 million tonnes a year. Everything is geared towards it. Secondly, synthetic fibres boast high performance levels compared to natural fibres, which need to be matched. And thirdly, when you focus on a material that you potentially plan to produce to the tune of 80 million metric tons, you also need to consider sources of raw materials. Although we have chosen cellulose, we will not fell a single tree for it. We have identified three sources of cellulose: agricultural waste, food waste, and textile recycling, i.e. old cotton fabrics that are dissolved and transformed into pulp.

The name HeiQ AeoniQ™ alludes to eternity. Does that mean the clothes made from it can be recycled eternally? Our method allows us to reprocess and re-spin this fibre as many times as we want without compromising performance. However, one has to keep in mind that most textiles end up in a landfill. The recycling rate in the textile industry only amounts to one percent. That, in turn, means that the probability of us getting the same t-shirt back is one percent. That is why we need technology that biodegrades very quickly. If you bury the HeiQ AeoniQ™ fibre in your garden, it will be history after three months. The vast majority of textiles end up in landfills, where polyester takes 1,000 years to decompose.

Yes, landfills are a problem that our future generations will eventually be forced to solve. We have to implement a progressive solution now, involving biodegradable materials that can be broken down in weeks at the landfill or in the oceans – and we need to stop the polyester plastic influx.

You are planning to invest billions in HeiQ AeoniQ (TM) and have already attracted prestigious partners in Hugo Boss and Lycra. What is your ultimate goal?

Our ultimate goal is to ensure that nobody invests in polyester production anymore in 2035. HeiQ has the ambition to be the spearhead in forcing this change within the industry. If we reach our production target of one million metric tons by 2030 and 10 million metric tons by 2035, we will effectively be able to undercut the polyester price with this volume. That would be the real game changing moment for the industry. Coming from a family of entrepreneurs, I learned early that innovation has to be integrated into the price structure of the market in order to be successful. If you can produce cheaper than the polluting technology, no one will invest in the polluting technology anymore.

Can fashion store owners also contribute to the elimination of polyester?

Yes, of course, as they buy their respective product ranges. They can ensure they avoid polyester and polyamide and sensitise their customers to the issue. They could also act as recycling collection points for their customers and offer discounts when they drop off used pieces.

What about clothes made of recycled plastic bottles?

To me, that is nothing more than window dressing. In Switzerland, by law, every plastic bottle must be made of 75 percent old plastic bottles; worldwide, the recycling rate is about 51 percent. That means this cycle already works.

And now we are interfering with the plastic bottle industry by siphoning off some of it for textiles, of which only one percent is returned to a recycling loop. We, as an industry, need to clean up our act and make sure that our products either come back or are degradable when they end up in the environment. And as I said, recycled or non-recycled origin, polyester means plastic in the environment.

Prototype for clothing made of HeiQ AeoniQ™ by Hugo Boss. As of the beginning of 2023, the innovative material will be featured in Hugo Boss capsule collections.

Keyhouse/Munich Fabric Start

“LET’S MAKE SUSTAINABILITY A

BIG DEAL!”

Simon Angel is anticipating the future of the Keyhouse concept, a trade show area for sustainable innovations, for Munich Fabric Start. Thinking and acting solely in terms of individual campaigns and the competition is yesterday’s news. An interview about what the future holds.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Munich Fabric Start

The Keyhouse concept is allocated plenty of space at Munich Fabric Start. Is it also getting more attention?

Simon Angel, Curator Sustainable Innovations at Munich Fabric Start: Absolutely. We observe that sustainability, innovation, and new technologies are among the most important subjects in the textile and fashion market today, which is fantastic! The Keyhouse concept reflects this development. It acts as a facilitator for positive change. Munich Fabric Start has been addressing these topics for more than a decade. Let’s make sustainability a big deal!

Which developments are seminal?

Circular economy, traceability, and sustainable innovation in terms of materials and technologies are high-priority topics. We represent them with updates and highlights in dyeing, process, material, and technology. Now in January, for example, we are showcasing the latest developments in non-toxic dyeing techniques based on mushrooms, materials grown from grass roots, and plastic alternatives made of juice press residues. The programme is additionally underpinned by exclusive

keynotes, panel discussions, trend presentations, and Q&A sessions providing further information on sustainable initiatives, collaborations, and new legislation. Circularity is the overarching goal. Where do we stand?

Circular business models are becoming increasingly effective and can bring about many improvements throughout the supply chain. Generally speaking, there is a growing realisation that the name of the game is collaboration rather than individual action and competition. It is not just the individual who needs to change, but everyone collectively. Material designers are increasingly trained to think big, while the industry is increasingly trained to think smaller. This is an excellent platform for finding each other and working together on new improvements. Today, it is all about meeting in the middle and then moving forward together from there.

Munich Fabric Start: among the exhibitors are ecological start-ups such as Wastea, as well as technology companies like Haelixa and industry leaders including Lectra and Lenzing.

As curator, he gives space to sustainability at Munich Fabric Start: Simon Angel.

BEN AND “IT IS A COMPLETELY NEW BUSINESS MODEL”

The Ben and sales agency has gained a head start. Successfully introducing D2C brands to the wholesale market is a journey that no other agency has dared to pursue with such determination. Agency owner Ben Botas discusses his motives in an interview with style in progress.

Ben, what started with NA-KD has now developed into your agency’s speciality. Gina Tricot, Weekday, Allbirds, and Hey Marly are D2C brands that are entering the wholesale market with your help. What is so exciting about this approach?

It is a completely different business model. While classic pre-order collections know their seasons, a brand like Gina Tricot never rests for a single day. They work every day, meaning our team is on the job every day. The closer the exchange with the clients, the more successful these brands are – that much is clear.

What have these D2C natives changed in your agency?

I would say the strategic approach. You need to give things time and it does not make sense to start cold. We learned a great deal from NA-KD. It took a total of three years to bring their possibilities and the needs of retailers down to a common denominator. Today, we invest this time in advance. As an agency, we often devote a year’s lead time until we have made the processes on

the brand side wholesale-ready before we actually start. That is a tremendous amount of preparatory work, but it is great fun. Do you think the general trend is shifting towards D2C-native brands?

I am convinced that classic premium and luxury brands – and their rhythms – are relevant and will continue to be so. However, I also believe that there is plenty of potential in D2C brands to appeal to a completely new customer segment. Anyone who runs a department store or a store, has to think about how to attract the next generation of customers. As D2C brands are so deeply rooted in their communities, they immediately create demand, which can, in turn, introduce a whole new level of customer traffic.

How large are the overlaps between the two divisions in your agency?

In some cases, they are actually negligible. The buyers we encounter across classically positioned brands are not the same as those across their customer-driven counterparts. This branch of the agency also operates more digitally. It goes without saying that many aspects no longer require face-to-face appointments or physical samples.

Ben Botas, owner of Ben and, has split his sales agency into two divisions. With his portfolio of D2C-native brands, he is a true agent of change.

Mainetti THE SUSTAINABLE ONE-STOP-SHOP FOR RETAILERS

Mainetti has been a trusted partner in innovative and sustainable retail solutions for the world’s most respected and well-known retail and apparel brands for sixty years. With more than 6,000 employees at 90 locations spread across 6 continents, the company is one of the market leaders in clothes hangers, steadily gaining market share in packaging solutions. What started with clothes hangers in Italy has evolved into the success story of a group that is strongly committed to circular economy. An interview with Paolo Diacci, General Manager of Reca Mainetti and Italy & Marketing Manager Mainetti. Interview: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek. Photos: Mainetti

Mainetti has been providing retail solutions since 1961, specialising in clothes hangers over the years. Today, retailers can procure packaging, labels, and tags, as well as RFID systems, software, and hardware from Mainetti, correct?

Paolo Diacci, General Manager of Reca Mainetti: Yes, we perceive ourselves as a one-stop shop for retailers. Mainetti originally started with clothes hangers and is the market leader in this area, manufacturing 9 billion hangers a year, but we have significantly expanded our product offering for the fashion industry over the last 20 years. With the emergence of e-commerce, we invested heavily in the development of packaging in the 2000s and now offer both flexible and structural packaging. We provide flexible packaging such as polybags and protective sleeves for shipping, paper packaging such as shopping bags and presentation boxes, and fabric packaging such as dust bags and garment bags. These products and our other services account for 100 million Euros of our total annual turnover of 500 million Euros – a figure we are particularly proud of because we have been moving into new markets for less than 20 years. What is your recipe for success?

I believe the know-how, the innovative, global mindset of the owners (the Mainetti family of Italy and the Chandaria family of India), the willingness to constantly optimise processes, and the sustainable approach all contribute to our success. Our Mainetti Full Circle initiative, driven by carbon saving and circular economy, aims to provide solutions in our sector that do not further

feed climate change. We want to empower our customers to transition from a linear to a circular business model.

Mainetti has been vocal about Circular Economy since the 1980s and has developed recycling and reuse systems/processes such as Hangerloop™ and Polyloop. Can you explain in more detail?

Hangerloop™ is the recycling or reuse scheme we offer for clothes hangers. The retailer collects the hangers and sends them back to the nearest of the 24 Mainetti centres, which is where we conduct quality tests. The hangers that can be reused are repackaged and sent out again. Those that fail to pass the test are recycled and the material is used for new hangers. Polyloop follows a similar principle, but it is a process by which we convert packaging material and waste in general into clear polyethylene film. We thereby facilitate a closed recycling loop for retailers.

Which brands are among your most relevant customers?

We operate extensively in the luxury and premium segments, and also frequently partner with major chains. Brunello Cucinelli, Blumarine, Jil Sander, Prada, and Vivienne Westwood are but a few customers. In terms of major chains, we partner with the likes of Decathlon and H&M, which use our Hangerloop™ system.

Paolo Diacci, General Manager of Reca Mainetti and Italy & Marketing Manager of Mainetti.

From luxury brands to global retail formats: Mainetti is a reliable partner.

MAKES SENSE

Not only consumption decisions should create an impact these days. The motivation to do something that is meaningful is also a major driving force for retailers and producers. A passion for craftsmanship, a desire to contribute to a better world, a new answer to old questions – these are the mainsprings that give rise to something new that makes a difference. Driven by meaning, purpose, and conviction, it creates products and retail formats that emphasise values.

“THE WORLD NEEDS TO BECOME MORE MODERATE”

A new path for a new generation: The Viwi founders Vivienne-Marie Härter and Max Sperber break free from traditional retail practices to help save our planet.

Text: Saskia Langejürgen. Photos: The Viwi

She decided to step away from marketing fast fashion, while he opted against taking over his mother’s luxury shoe boutique. Instead, Vivienne-Marie Härter and Max Sperber set about offering a finely curated range of sustainable styles with their online platform The Viwi.

What motivates people to launch a company these days?

Max Sprenger, co-founder of The Viwi: We were both already involved in fashion. I worked in my mother’s shoe store in Düsseldorf and my girlfriend handled social media for a fast fashion company. We were into fashion, but not in the form we knew it. It would have been difficult to guide my mother’s business into the future, as the rules of the game have changed dramatically. The big brands tightened the screws with every passing season. The purchase volumes increased, but at the same time independent retailers were not always provided with the hype products these brands were pushing with massive marketing measures. This unsatisfactory reality made it a little easier to bow out. Our desire to create something new and meaningful was an equally decisive factor. We started building The Viwi as an online-only store in 2019. Deciding not to take over the business was a difficult decision, yet the right one in the end.

Will the new purpose-driven generation of entrepreneurs revolutionise fashion?

I believe it is important to practice sustainability rather than just tag along because it is trendy right now. Sustainability is not about being perfect, but about creating awareness. We need to find a middle ground to reach as many people as possible. We certainly do not need more radical approaches. On the contrary, we believe that it is sufficient if everyone chooses the better, more sustainable alternative. And today, there are alternatives for every product. How do you manage to make sustainable fashion affordable?

Organic cotton does not cost much more to produce than conventional cotton. Many materials used in the fashion industry are similarly priced, yet much more sustainable. More often than not, the price is increased by mark-ups for the brand name. It was important to us to try and make everything – from materials to shipping – sustainable from the outset. We pay close attention to excellent quality, but we also make sure products remain affordable.

The Viwi

“Our style is recognisable. We take a different approach to the usual,” says Vivienne-Marie Härter.

Holy Goat WORTH EVERY CENT

Fashion with a clear conscience – is that the motivation for TheHolyGoat?

Simone Goschler, founder of TheHolyGoat: Yes, that is my philosophy, as cashmere is not a mass product. It is important to me that all individuals involved in the creation process are treated and paid appropriately, enabling them to make a good living, and that all animals are treated humanely. I believe it is wrong to build wealth on the back of the suffering of other living creatures. How resourceful do you have to be to achieve this?

We try to keep countries, or systems, that fail to meet our standards out of our production chain as much as possible. We have managed to establish a partnership with a spinning mill in Ulan Bator that shares our values. We import the yarn to Nepal, where we can guarantee good working conditions for 80 employees and contribute to the education and health insurance of their families. Everyone involved feels safe, and I think that is reflected in the product itself.

Cashmere is more in-demand than ever, with what impact?

A coveted resource increases in price. In the last three years, the price of cashmere has more than doubled and there is no end in sight. This also affects shipping, energy, and general costs. Yet since we are not willing to compromise on quality or standards, we obviously accept the price increases.

Everything is becoming even more expensive now. Who foots the bill?

Definitely not the goats, shepherds, or everyone else involved in the production. I consider it my mission to create desirability with my products and instil an awareness of their value. We love our products and do our utmost to ensure that everyone gets their fair share and that our customers enjoy a wonderful, high-quality piece.

Simone Goschler: “Mindfulness is our leitmotif. Everything is interdependent.”

PASSION

What is the origin of your passion for leather?

Jochen Bauer, owner and designer of Heinz Bauer Manufakt: Fascination and inspiration are partly rooted in classic pilot jackets. The sensuality of the material, which emanates something real and alive, is certainly a crucial factor. It is similar to beautifully treated wooden or metal surfaces; they simply exert a powerful attraction.

What is unique about your latest innovation? We process 0.3mm thin lamb nappa leather for our quilted down jackets. This makes them almost as light as nylon jackets, yet significantly more valuable given they are made of a natural outer material. Our down-proof lining is made either of biodegradable synthetic fibres or recycled car tyres. For the quilting seams, through which down would usually leak out, we rely on a double casing with a significantly denser wall, as our standards regarding imperviousness are correspondingly high. We exclusively employ tried and tested, advanced high-tech materials that actually retain the down.

What does innovation mean to you personally?

We have been focusing on avoiding plastic and synthetics since the 1990s, both in terms of product and packaging. Meanwhile, we have managed to convince our logistics partners and customers to forego disposable packaging and switch to reusable garment bags. It sometimes takes time for good ideas to take hold. It is important not to be dissuaded, and not to start too early. Our hybrid jackets made of a mix of cashmere and leather were a similar case. In the beginning, there was some internal scepticism as to whether such a product would actually sell. Not least because of the unique feel and the unusual, luxurious combination of materials, we ultimately received an incredible amount of positive feedback from retailers and customers.

Jochen Bauer of Heinz Bauer Manufakt is not afraid to give ideas time to take shape.

Heinz Bauer Manufakt INNOVATION THROUGH

UPSIDE DOWN

Putting the cart before the horse? That makes sense, because in a world where old rules have been flipped upside down, there is no longer the need to play by those old rules. Consumerfirst brands have brought an entirely new approach into play. Listening, data, and community precede creativity. Thus armed, products brimming with intimacy and relevance become possible, avoiding overproduction and setting new trends. Part of the parcel: demand, customer frequency, and access to a new – usually much younger –target group.

Sustainable production in Europe and a distinct style: Ayen stands for "all you ever need" and is, in addition to its strong D2C channel and its own shop, represented at department stores such as Breuninger and KaDeWe. The sales network is now being expanded in collaboration with Timothy Hoferer of Modeist.

“OUR CUSTOMER IS OUR BEST FRIEND”

Three years after launching her D2C fashion label Ayen, Nina Schwichtenberg is conquering the wholesale market. In this interview, she reveals how D2C and B2B can dovetail perfectly.

Interview: Martina Müllner. Text: Saskia Langejürgen. Photos: Ayen

D2C brands enter the wholesale segment with a wealth of data and experience. Do traditional retailers appreciate this quality?

We believe that we are particularly attractive to the wholesale sector because our customers are our best friends. They interact with our label differently than customers of traditional brands do. We are confident that D2C and B2B can benefit from each other’s characteristics and experience.

Are brands like Ayen inherently more sustainable because they know exactly what their target group desires and are better at forecasting demand?

We embrace sustainability in various facets. We rely on completely European production, work with high-quality natural materials, and create timeless designs. And yes, we engage our customers during the design process, for example by conducting collection

surveys on social media and actively listening to their feedback. We manufacture what our customers want to wear.

What have you learned from traditional B2B sales?

The most surprising insight was that all colour variations that were not displayed in the showroom attracted significantly fewer orders. Something that we, who work mostly with pictures and digitally, did not expect in the slightest. Now we are pondering ways of solving this problem for the future, because presenting a style in all colours would contradict our sustainability principles.

What qualities distinguish your brand from classic premium or designer brands?

Our lean corporate structure makes us flexible. We are also very close to the market, digital natives who attach great importance to insights, direct contact, and the wishes of our customers. I often visit the store myself to establish a close relationship with our customers. Nothing is more beautiful than witnessing the effect the clothes have on them and how much pride they take in wearing Ayen.

Nina Schwichtenberg and her partner Patrick Kahlo are pioneering content creators. A personal rethink resulted in the entrepreneur considering her own label. “At some point, I could no longer justify the quick turnaround,” she explains.

Launched in 2018 as a pure D2C brand, Hey Marly has now expanded into wholesale in partnership with Ben and. The company prepared thoroughly for this step.

HEY MARLY “WE

INTEND TO EXPLORE

NEW AVENUES”

Hey Marly co-founder Philip Neidhart is eager to do things differently. In partnership with Ben and, the D2C Brand is now venturing into wholesale. This introduces a flood of new processes that the company has had to incorporate into its lean operations. Neidhart sat down with style in progress to discuss his findings. Interview: Martina Müllner. Photos: Hey Marly

Where do you believe innovation stems from? Perhaps where like you conquer the industry?

We founded the company with a great deal of enthusiasm and learned on-the-go how to turn it into a sustainable, fast-moving business. I enjoy thinking differently and deviating from classic patterns. The same applies to our recent venture into B2B. The traditional order model presented us with great challenges, but we found a way to be flexible, close, and emotive, even in wholesale. For pre-orders, we will rely on a mix of successful styles and drops, offering retailers services that they are not accustomed to. For example, we intend to map customer service directly and digitally at the POS in the medium term. When on a Hey Marly sales floor, people should be able to contact us directly if they have any questions.

Your insights from digital marketing and KPIs are certainly a huge asset. Can you share these insights with retailers? Yes, that is possible. Yet some retailers are not open to that. We know our customers very well. We know what is well received –and when. For many products, we can predict very precisely how well they will perform and when, simply because we are familiar with the demand from D2C and know when to digitally market the product in question. This certainty in forecasting is some-

what new for stationary retailers, and we realise that we need to adjust to each other in this regard. In terms of B2B orders, we would like to prove our point and assume risk by allowing retailers to return unsold merchandise if our forecasts turn out to be incorrect.

What is the most significant lesson B2B can learn from you? B2B can learn to be more flexible and show confidence in brands. We conduct community surveys on styles and colours. We analyse our online shop traffic on a daily basis. We know what people like and that bestsellers often perform excellently for much longer than buyers might think. Which does not mean that we are basic. Obviously, we are constantly renewing our collection with drops or even entire product groups, such as Hey Marly bags. At the end of the day, we concluded that it can be quite sensible to show some staying power when it comes to highlights.

Do retailers take such recommendations seriously? We are still in the early stages of our B2B push. We are always happy to provide information on which bestsellers are in greatest demand, but we do not know whether this information will ultimately influence the order decision of a traditional retailer.

In my view, however, this is a two-way learning process. B2B is a new environment for us, meaning we are still learning too.

“ZALANDO? GERMAN RETURN RATES ON STEROIDS”

Swedish label Flattered has mastered the art of producing Scandi-minimalistic, sustainable footwear for women while combining the best of D2C and wholesale. Founder Gustav Lidén explains how D2C and B2B can complement each other.

Interview: Martina Müllner. Text: Saskia Langejürgen. Photos: Flattered

Did you initially start off as a D2C brand?

Gustav Lidén, founder of Flattered: More or less. In a way, we were born out of social media, as we started in D2C with an e-shop promoted by a Swedish influencer. However, we started in wholesale at the same time. Our turnover is 75 percent D2C though.

What was the ambition to build the brand?

At first, we just wanted to produce stylish slippers that can be worn with proper outfits. After a while, Flattered evolved into a shoe brand. Now, our mission is to improve the market and environment. We are committed to sustainable retail and focus on producing long-lasting and timeless shoes, bags, and leather accessories.

What is the main difference between D2C and B2B? The main difference is the simplicity of D2C. We established aesthetic products that reach our customers without all the middlemen needed in wholesale. That fastens the lead-times, gives us full power of our collection, but also lowers the markups, meaning we are able to be premium yet still affordable. In

this area, we have had to adapt our wholesale-margin to fit with our D2C pricing strategy, but that’s works since D2C is such a large part of the total business.

What is the benefit for retailers?

Retailers can benefit from our contemporary sustainable approach, confidence, digital know-how, and network. As digital natives, we not only know our customers, but also how to collaborate with influencers. This attracts a new type of customer to wholesale.

What are the benefits you expect from wholesale?

Our customers get to see and feel physical products – their materials and true colours. Also, department stores allow us to engage new customers. Especially in Germany, which is in our top three markets, people trust their department stores and love to buy German quality-approved products.

How does your current buying process work?

We sell directly to the retailer. We have a showroom in Paris twice a year, and starting from AW23, we will also work with NuOrder. The collection can be ordered approximately six months in advance. We are trying to find a better solution for this process, because it lacks flexibility, and the re-ordering process is slow. For e-com wholesalers we have already found such a solution: an online marketplace that is capable of dispatching sizes that are sold out at our retailers’ online shops directly ex stock.

Do you collaborate with other e-tailers?

Not right now. We tried collaborating with Zalando, but that did not work out. We know German return rates are high, but Zalando was German return rates on steroids. So, we decided to quit the collaboration. We are quite selective about our e-tailers.

In terms of in-store experience, AlphaTauri relies on a concept driven by innovation and design.

ALPHATAURI “WE ARE INVESTING IN A STRONG NETWORK”

AlphaTauri is gearing up for expansion. In Austria, Red Bull’s premium fashion brand, launched in 2016, already runs three own stores. The global leap followed recently, taking AlphaTauri directly into the metropolises of Tokyo and London.

Text: Veronika Zangl. Photos: AlphaTauri

The run-up was extensive and sets the course for the future. “After successfully entering the Japanese market in 2021, we are thrilled to move on to the next stage by teaming up with our first local premium retail partner in Japan. Until now, our collection was only available through our webstore,” says Ahmet Mercan, CEO of AlphaTauri, referring to the pop-up concept at Isetan in Tokyo. The

presence in the Japanese capital is part of a substantial internationalisation strategy. While the number of retail partners stood at 20 in two countries in 2020, this figure rose to 130 in fourteen countries in 2022.

THE WHOLESALE FOCUS REMAINS

Another milestone was reached in November, when the company opened its first flagship store in London. AlphaTauri presents its collections across two floors totalling 326 square metres on Brompton Road in Knightsbridge. “Our sales strategy focuses on wholesale. We are investing in a strong network of high-profile premium retail partners in selected metropolitan areas around the world to position the brand in a relevant environment and to increase brand awareness.”

For openings and events with retailers, AlphaTauri drums up publicity and sweetens them with special editions, such as the AlphaTauri x Pierre Gasly capsule for the launch of the flagship store in London. It once more underscores the strong connection between F1 and the fashion brand, acting as a strategic pillar. “Both worlds are committed to pioneering work based on expertise and investing in the continuous development of innovative solutions,” Ahmet Mercan argues. Following the introduction of AlphaTauri in Great Britain and the launch in stationary retail in Japan, the US market is planned for later this year. “We aspire to be represented at 200 POS in 20 countries by the end of 2023,” says Ahmet Mercan, outlining the goal.

Michi Klemera, founder of Luis Trenker, and Ilenia Eisenkeil, Marketing Director, have ambitious growth plans for 2023: two new stores, a new website, and investment in advertising.

TRENKER

“NOW

WE ARE

GOING ALL OUT”

Sustainability is firmly enshrined in Luis Trenker’s DNA, but now the lifestyle brand from Bolzano intends to delve even deeper. The entire company is being analysed for its environmental credentials and potential. At the same time, Michi Klemera and his team are focusing on strong, healthy growth.

Text: Martina Müllner. Photos: Luis Trenker

Ilenia, you are cooperating with Fokus Zukunft on a sustainability profile for the company, which is intended to show both the status quo and potential in each area. How did it come about?

Ilenia Eisenkeil, Marketing Director of Luis Trenker: In terms of sustainability, we have opted to enlist renowned professionals to screen the entire Luis Trenker business. We believe that we are already on an excellent path with our local, European production capabilities and the fact that we have always

pursued a slow fashion strategy. However, we are also fully aware that there are many small adjustments that we can still make on our way to becoming a more sustainable company.

Is the intention to also bar any suspicion of greenwashing?

Ilenia Eisenkeil: No, we have never had anything to hide. With the launch of the new website, we want to throw open all doors in terms of storytelling and invite both our B2B partners and our end consumers to take a close look behind the curtain. The fact that we have been working with the same European production partners for so many years is one of the pillars of sustainability for us, because that is who we are: a loyal, reliable brand.

Cross your heart, Michi. In view of the current price explosion, are you not sometimes tempted to look for cheaper production locations or partners?

Michi Klemera, founder of Luis Trenker: No, that is not how we operate. When products become more expensive, it is our job to

communicate their value better. However, that not only applies to product value, but also to Luis Trenker’s values – something we have been working on very hard. In our own retail stores in particular, storytelling works perfectly, and the newly revamped online store will also rely heavily on our genuine stories. We aim to pass on this fascination to our valued retail partners. We have so much to tell, which is a natural starting point for inspiring passion in the consumer!

You are sharing the Luis Trenker story with an increasingly international audience. At Pitti Uomo, your stand is even bigger and more prominent. What is the underlying ambition?

Ilenia Eisenkeil: Yes, we are internationalising, but always in the knowledge that our homeland is very much part of our magic. International customers in particular buy a piece of an ideal, healthy world with Luis Trenker, a slice of a place of longing. This makes it all the more important that we do our part to preserve this world with our sustainability strategy.

LUIS

A much closer look behind the scenes and a sustainability analysis by external experts: Luis Trenker is increasing its focus on value and values in its strategy.

Maximilian Meissner and his father Rolf Meissner are creating a manufactured product based on advanced knitting technology under the name Seldom. Now the aficionado collection is being elevated to the next level, by rebranding and evolving in design and distribution.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Seldom

Maximilian, what sets Seldom’s knitwear apart from other brands?

Maximilian Meissner, owner of Seldom: Our USP entails knitted jumpers and jackets that are seamless and therefore reversible. The garments are manufactured on flat knitting machines and are knitted in one piece. This process requires a great deal of development work and advanced know-how in knitting technology. Only very few companies are capable of pulling this off.

On top of that, volumes are limited. Yes, we consciously operate in small batches. The knitting time of a jumper is about one hour, meaning only eight to ten jumpers are produced in an eight-to-ten-hour shift. Our seamless technology eliminates waste. 80 percent of our collection is manufactured

in Germany, the remaining 20 percent in Europe. Short transport routes are essential in post-production, as we no longer need to stockpile large quantities. The same applies to retailers, by the way. We can flexibly re-produce our just-in-time product and guarantee that winter items arrive at stores within ten days. This approach has proven to be successful. I advise retailers to order less in the first step, so they can gauge the popularity of individual pieces. The upshot is that styles, colours, and sizes can then be reordered in a more targeted manner. Our retailers really appreciate this service, especially in the winter season, because they can replenish stocks several times a week and even pass on individual customer orders to us.

Now you are taking the next step. What does that entail?

Our long-lasting classics, with which we have been supplying to Manufactum since 2013, still form the core of Seldom. We call this line Masterpieces, featuring hoodies, jump-

ers, and jackets made of 100 percent natural materials. We build upon that with a fashionable, sporty, younger line called Statement. It targets owner-managed premium fashion stores. We have enlisted the sales agency of Niklas Rill to develop this additional distribution channel. The relationship works really well. Nik understands our product and has the network to position Seldom fashion-wise in Germany and Austria.

What highlights can we look forward to?

Knitted jumpers that can be worn all year round and that differ significantly from our Masterpiece collection due to innovative yarns and unusual knitting patterns. Some styles are oversized and unisex. Knitted jumpers with the optics of cotton sweatshirts are equally cool. We remain true to our roots in the new line. This commitment is reflected in our seamless technology and in the distinctive interplay of colours created by the use of multi-threaded yarns in several colours.

Long-lasting quality produced just-in-time: seamless knitwear by Seldom.

SELDOM

“WE REMAIN TRUE TO OUR ROOTS”

Next generation: Maximilian Meissner, CEO of Seldom.

MICHAEL KORS

PROMISING

The DNA of Michael Kors is defined by a luxurious jet set lifestyle and timeless chic. The brand’s tailoring, loungewear, and underwear lines are about to enter the German market, equipped with all the necessary credentials for a successful launch.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Michael Kors

Keep your eyes peeled for Michael Kors menswear. For several seasons now, the recently launched tailoring line has been building on the success of the womenswear range, for which the American designer’s name is

primarily recognised. The brand specialises in fashionable collections that translate luxurious elegance and American pragmatism into highly wearable looks.

The same principle also applies to the tailoring line. Sleek silhouettes define signature suits and shirts, which are complemented by regular cuts with equally perfect fits. Selected premium qualities and targeted detailing are further features of the collection, which concentrates on the essentials. This approach is also reflected in casual loungewear and underwear by Michael Kors, which completes the menswear look and is also entering the German market – with essential pieces that combine comfort with style.

The Michael Kors brand was launched in 1981 and is now a global player encompass-

ing accessories, footwear, watches, jewellery, eyewear, beauty products, and fragrances alongside menswear and womenswear. Germany is considered a key European market for further international expansion. Consequently, 3A Brands, a company with many years of experience in building solid business relationships with lifestyle brands and customers, was appointed as the official sales partner for tailoring, loungewear, and underwear in 2022. 3A Brands is represented by Stefan Wittmann.

“I am thrilled that we have landed Michael Kors,” says Stefan Wittmann. “The powerful menswear looks strike a chord in the German market and we are eager to inspire local retailers with Michael Kors.”

Casual-cool elegance coupled with high quality standards: Michael Kors’ tailoring, loungewear, and underwear lines are now launching in Germany.

LODENFREY

MENSWEAR

“TRADITION IS OUR

USP”

Leonard von Pfister represents the next generation of Lodenfrey Menswear, and he has his sights set on a younger target group. How can the brand’s values translate into the future? The young managing director has some intriguing ideas.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Lodenfrey Leonard, how do you think ahead for a traditional brand?

Leonard von Pfister, Managing Director of Lodenfrey Menswear: By keeping our tradition firmly in mind during the transformation process. For Lodenfrey Menswear, we reinterpret loden. This material forms the foundation of our 180-year history: weatherproof, water-repellent, and heat-regulating. We implement these natural properties in minimalist designs. As a company, we are shaped by

dualisms: function and design, tradition and modernity, Trachten and fashion. Transformation is part of our DNA, which now rests on three independent, family-owned companies: the Lodenfrey store, Lodenfrey-Park, and Lodenfrey Menswear. How can the brand appeal to Gen Z? Gen Z is more political than previous generations. Values matter once more, which is why sustainability, purpose, and authenticity play a crucial role in the success of a brand. For the collection, we now always take ecological and social aspects into account from the very beginning. We ensure transparency, for example by highlighting sustainably established relationships with our retail partners. Social media has become indispensable, but we also consider it part of a social problem. What is real and what is not? That is why we focus on presence in selected media, because we believe that the tangible can merely be complemented by the digital.

How is modernity reflected in the collection?

The centrepiece is the loden coat – interpreted as a duffle coat, featuring contemporary cuts, two-way zippers instead of toggle locks, and a modern hood. We rely on the highest quality for loden in fashionable colours. At the same time, we are committed to European handicrafts. We manufacture in our own factory, are currently building another facility, and intend to train master craftsmen in Romania. To this end, we currently allot 50 cents per item sold for an internal training programme, which we will increase to two percent of the purchase price in the near future.

What are your plans for Lodenfrey Menswear’s markets?

Our strongest markets are the Alpine regions of Germany, Austria, Italy, and Switzerland. We aim to consolidate our position and maintain a constant presence at our key partners. We would like to expand into the Benelux countries in the future. The objective is always to not necessarily be visible everywhere, but to be perceived as an authentic brand that takes socially relevant issues into account.

Natural functionality in contemporary, minimalist design: Lodenfrey Menswear.

Leonard von Pfister: “To achieve entrepreneurial success, transformation must be part of our DNA as a constant dynamic process.”

Caliban, represented by Agentur Ventrella, has perfectly bridged the gap between Italian fashion and German demands for years. This is evident in continuous growth figures.

GIEMME BRANDSCORPORATE THE SHIRT SPECIALISTS

Giemme Brandscorporate has been the Italian market leader and an international benchmark in the blouse and shirt segment since the 1950s. The group comprises such successful brands as Caliban, Guglielminotti, Le Sarte Pettegole, Tintoria Mattei, and DNL. In 2020, the group acquired the licence for Robert Friedman, and Heritage Showroom is now in charge of sales in Germany. An interview with Ilaria Gori, General Export Manager of Giemme Brandscorporate, about success, expansion, and beautiful shirts.

Interview: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek.

Photos: Giemme Brandscorporate

Ilaria, autumn/winter 2023/24 is your sixth season with Robert Friedman. Can you draw some early conclusions?

Ilaria Gori, General Export Manager of Giemme Brandscorporate: We have gained an incredibly strong player in the blouse and shirt market and are satisfied that we have further consolidated this position. In conjunction with other brands in our portfolio, we have attained a superb posi-

tion in the European and global premium segment. What was particularly challenging for us about Robert Friedmann is that this collection dispels the preconception that Italian manufacturers can only follow what is known as the Italian playbook. On the contrary, we are equally capable of adapting to the tastes of the market and implementing different prints and fits. As of now, 200 points of sale in Germany, as well as 40 each in Austria and Switzerland, agree with us – a perfect foundation for further growth. So, is this the directive issued to Heritage Showroom, the new sales partner in these markets?

I have known Malte Kötteritz for many years and have full confidence that Michael Brockmann, Laura Riesinger, and he will do an excellent job. In Robert Friedman’s case, our focus is not on increasing customer numbers, but on enhancing the image and positioning of the brand. We are planning investments in communication and at the POS. We intend to organise events and involve German influencers, for example.

What distinguishes your two strongest labels, Robert Friedman and Caliban? What do they do better than their competitors?

Both brands are strong in design and fit, relying on high-quality, selected materials. We remain committed to working almost exclusively with Italian fabrics and our long-standing relationships make us impervious to the supply chain issues that are affecting so many others. Robert Friedman represents classic contemporary fashion.

Massimiliano Martini, owner of the brand and son of the founders, still designs and develops the collection. We attached great importance to keeping the DNA of the collection intact, as it is definitely known for bold prints. For Caliban, we implemented a more colourful, younger, and more avant-garde collection with the same level of production know-how. By specialising the brands, they do not get in each other’s way. Many of our retail partners carry several brands from our portfolio and precisely love this reliability. They know we have blouse and shirt expertise!

Robert Friedman is one of the flagship brands of Giemme Brandscorporate.

Ilaria Gori, General Export Manager of Giemme Brandscorporate.

JUVIA AFFAIR OF THE HEART

Judith Dommermuth’s personality is the lifeblood of her Juvia brand. What else ensures success, apart from a strong product? Listening closely to retailers, and a collection that veers towards the total look.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Juvia

Juvia loungewear is a successful product that is now visibly evolving. What has changed?

Judith Dommermuth, founder of Juvia: We continue to focus on what sets us apart: loungewear in comfort qualities. For this purpose, we are expanding the add-ons to ensure Juvia is suitable for all situations and seasons. In addition to menswear and nightwear, we have introduced cosy knitwear and are supplementing it with dresses, blouses, trousers, jackets, and coats in materials such as silk, poplin, and a fine tech velour. We recruited two new designers to bolster our competence in this area. Juvia is transforming into an all-season collection with casual-cosy looks.

Year-round collection sounds great. What does that mean for the delivery rhythm?

Juvia is ready-to-wear, and a rhythm involving summer goods in December makes no sense to me. That is why we are now adjusting the collection to the delivery date, for example by adding warming add-ons in December. In addition, we have reduced the number of delivery dates from six per season to four. This gives retailers more time to market broader, established themes.

You also seem to have an expert ear for what retailers need.

Yes. For example, we responded to the demand for a thinner sweat material for summer, just as we did to a request for thinner terrycloth. We also strive to be synonymous with service. Our seven-strong sales team for the German market visits customers throughout the year. We have reinforced our back office in Cologne and have established a smoothly functioning B2B shop. The overriding goal is to serve as an excellent partner for the retail trade. Well-placed with about 850 points of sale across Europe, we have been quite spoiled for success with steady growth since day one, for which I am very grateful! Now we want to further expand exports, for example in France, where we are starting our new marketing campaign with local support. We uphold the brand image

and focus on selective distribution, as well as on maintaining the upper hand in terms of price, even with large online retailers. We would rather cut back than sell at any price. Last but not least, it is crucial that you back the brand up with your personality. Juvia is a project that is close to my heart. I started it because I wanted to create something that was not available on the market. I myself am the living prototype and I still try on every piece. Moreover, I always seek the opinion of my mother and niece, because the casual loungewear lifestyle is not limited by age or type. When people ask me who the typical Juvia customer is, I am proud to say that there is no such thing as a typical customer.

Casual fashion that promises comfort: Juvia.

A collection fully aligned with her personality: Judith Dommermuth.

Innovation meets function: IQ Studio is processing ever more sophisticated materials.

IQ STUDIO

FINETUNING

IQ Studio’s outerwear has made a name for itself with minimalist design and a feminine touch. The agenda for the coming season lists systematic upgrading as a priority, alongside IQ Studio Active as a new subline with additional functionality.

Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: IQ Studio

Berlin coolness meets Hanseatic understatement. This is perhaps the most apt way to describe IQ Studio as we know it today. The journey began in Berlin in 2003, with urban outerwear inspired by an unfinished city and its optimistic mood. Today, the story continues in Hamburg under the umbrella of Classico Group.

IQ Studio remains characterised by an urban spirit and a constrained fashion attitude. The label is now busy finetuning its profile. “We are steadily developing the brand towards premium contemporary,” says IQ Studio owner Carsten Scheer. “To achieve this, we utilise high-quality material innovations that

are as sustainable as possible, impress with our price/performance ratio, and further emphasise the entry-level price range in the exquisite segment.”

For the autumn-winter 2023 season, for example, the bestselling puffer styles are reinterpreted in slimmer, body-hugging silhouettes. High-quality components such as zips and drawstring cords are employed alongside materials that are wind- and waterproof. Parka styles are making a comeback in new functional qualities, as are wool coats and pea coats. At a mark-up between 2.7 and 3.0, the primarily retail price points are 399, 499, and 599 Euros. The new IQ Studio Active subline increases the focus on function, featuring coats and jackets that defy wind and weather with upgraded performance materials.

Accordingly, the sales strategy is geared towards trading up. In the German-speaking market, the brand has been selectively positioned in the premium retail segment by long-standing sales partners. The next step involves expansion in the Benelux countries, France, and Scandinavia. An essential tool in this respect remains service. “The classic seasonal rhythm, comprising a summer and winter collection, guarantees reliable and early delivery for the respective season,” emphasises Carsten Scheer. “In addition, partners can tap into our yearround stock service, which is updated daily, via our B2B portal.” The team at IQ Studio is also refining its bestseller management and facilitating follow-up productions at short notice.

The current RR’s collection not only features denim, but also knitwear.

BALL IS NOW IN GERMANY’S COURT”

RR’s is the premium line of quintessential Italian denim specialist Roy Roger’s. In partnership with Elvis Giglione of Elvis Fashion Agency, the company has four-handedly tailored a men’s collection specifically for the German market. A conversation about success and establishing oneself in challenging markets.

Interview: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek.

Photos: RR’s

Niccolò, it has been ten years since we last met for an interview. How about a quick word-rap about what has happened in the meantime?

Niccolò Biondi, CEO of Sevenbell Group: Much has happened in the last ten years. First of all, we celebrated our 70th anniversary as a company last year, despite the pandemic and crises. The fact that we hold such a strong market position is the result of a clear and precise plan that we have been pursuing for years. We have evolved from a pure manufacturer to a retail company, and have invested heavily in design, social media, communication, and e-commerce. Our strategy is bearing fruit. Turnover has grown steadily in recent years, and, for example, we were able to close the 2023 summer season

with a 23 percent increase over the previous year. In 2022, we generated a turnover of 25 million Euros.

Respect. Yet these successes are mainly fuelled by your home market, correct?

We are one of the market leaders in Italy, and now operate four mono-brand stores in Florence, Bologna, Padua, and Forte dei Marmi. But yes, we realise 90 percent of our sales in Italy and only 10 percent abroad.

We aim to change that now. My wish is to increase the export quota to 40 percent. We are prepared to invest to achieve this. By that I do not only refer to financial investment, but also to the willingness to enter the playing field with determination and partner up with the right people for the respective project.

The Italian playbook does not apply abroad. So, how do you plan to position the brand in the export market?

The most important aspect is to remain flexible and open, to question oneself, and to find a partner who has vision and a precise plan for their market. We found the ideal partner for Germany in Elvis Giglione. He was very clear and determined in his approach. I liked that. In other words, our offer to the German denim lover has been tailor-made by four

hands. The ball is now in Germany’s court! Elvis Giglione, Elvis Fashion Agency: I have been dreaming of this kind of cooperation for a long time. The company boasts decades of experience, and the denim archives are absolutely fantastic. I am convinced that this collection meets market requirements 100 percent.

What looks can we expect?

I can reveal in advance that the collection is not limited to trousers. In addition to 18 high-quality denim models, there will be 22 knitwear pieces, a few of which were even crafted by hand. We also offer five powerful leather jackets. The look is geared towards urban men who are in the thick of life and prefer to combine their jeans with a jacket, or with a jumper and leather jacket in their free time. The style is far less Italian than you might expect, Elvis made sure of that. (laughs)

That sounds very promising…

Yes, absolutely. This collaboration can best be described using a metaphor. Our collections, our denim models, are the ship hulls that were ready and waiting in the shipyard. In this case, Elvis was the customer allowed to customise the yacht. Now we are ready to set sail for the (German) sea.

Niccolò Biondi has been at the helm of the Italian denim company Sevenbell, which includes brands such as Roy Roger’s, President’s, and Amish, for several years. With RR’s, he intends to conquer the German market alongside Elvis Giglione. RR’S

“THE

HIRE WITH FIRE

“WE DO NOT THINK IN WORKING HOURS, BUT IN ENERGY LEVELS”

New game, new rules? A creative industry like ours needs the brightest minds. Yet many companies struggle to attract up-and-coming talent born between 1995 and 2010. In short: Generation Z. How could fashion inspire young people in the future, be it as staff or as customers? To explore these questions, we invited ZEAM founder Yaël Meier and Hugo Boss CEO Daniel Grieder, two people who have had great success in attracting highly talented young people to their companies, for a chat. 22-year-old Yaël Meier even advocates for supervisory board members younger than 30. Read the reaction of 61-year-old Daniel Grieder below.

Moderation: Stephan Huber. Text: Petrina Engelke. Illustration: Tibo Eixenberger/Caroline Seidler. Photos: Interviewees

Iwould like to start the discussion with a quote by each of you. Daniel, in the summer of 2021 you said in an interview: “Being an attractive industry and employer for young people, for fresh talent, is a very important factor. If we aspire to be the best, we need to have the best staff.” What have you done to attract the best? And who are the best anyway?

Daniel Grieder: The way I see it, it now requires more effort than in the past to attract the best employees. I believe it starts with the company itself. It needs to be cool, sexy, and interesting in order to attract talent. To be frank, it was quite difficult for us to attract promising CVs 15 months ago. The company was not as relevant as it used to be, and thus not particularly appealing for new employees. This leads me to the first factor. I believe everyone needs to understand what a company stands for. That is exactly what we have defined very clearly by introducing a new strategy, a new brand orientation, a new campaign, and new products. Everything just clicked into place. We immediately attracted more attention, and our desirability as an employer increased many times over.

Yaël Meier: You are investing heavily in your B2C brand. Hugo Boss is more visible than ever among young people and that ultimately helps you in terms of personnel. Young talent is attracted by a strong brand. You offer that, which is why people are now eager to build a career at Hugo Boss.

Daniel Grieder: The crucial factor is to actually fulfil these expectations. We now have an entire catalogue dedicated to

implementation, which always reminds me of you saying: “Why does one even need offices?” (laughs) We are investing several millions in this campus to make it absolutely cool, to create something that is more than a mere workplace. We want it to be a place where people really enjoy spending time. It is no longer sufficient to provide a simple office and a canteen from where you can pick up food. The whole thing needs to be staged. It needs to be an experiential world, which is precisely what we have come to expect from stores. Regardless of whether in stationary retail or e-commerce, the goal is to evoke emotions, offer an experience, and build a community. This is exactly what we are trying to implement in the workplace, as it resonates with the talent we strive to attract. They realise that things happen here, even during the week. You can meet people here without having to visit a bar.

This raises the question of working hours.

Daniel Grieder: (to Yaël) You argue that we do not need working hours. I have a slightly different opinion.

Some people prefer clear instructions and require guidance. A company like ours employs people in IT, sales, logistics, and product development. We have more than 2,500 employees at our headquarters alone, and more than 15,000 worldwide. That one format that allows everyone to work completely flexibly does not exist. Of course, we have implemented flexible working hours where possible, but warehouse employees, for example, need to be present for the start of their shifts. Needless to say, our working hours could become even more flexible, but we certainly approach the subject differently than Yaël.

Yaël Meier: The way you develop your campus as a place of experience is what an office of the future should look like. If you approach the subject with that kind of mindset, an office actually makes plenty of sense. However, the notion that employees arrive in the office, sit at their desk for eight hours, and then go home again is

tHe worKPLaCe neeDS to Be StaGeD. It neeDS to Be an eXPerIentIaL worLD, wHICH IS PreCISeLY wHat we Have CoMe to eXPeCt FroM StoreS.

Daniel Grieder

no longer valid. As for flexible working hours, every company must figure out the best solution individually. It is vital to remember that young talents desire maximum flexibility. Many employers find that challenging. At the end of the day, it is an issue of reinterpreting work. What does working time actually mean, for instance? We do not think in working hours, but in energy levels. What does this mean in practical terms?

Yaël Meier: It means that different kinds of work require different energy levels. Lecturing at a workshop is very different from working on my emails. That is why every employee can assess for themselves how much energy they have left for additional tasks. Admittedly, we are a small company, but despite this openness we still have a fairly good grasp of performance and efficiency levels. That is what matters to the company, after all. How many people do you currently employ?

Yaël Meier: Just shy of 30. The question of finding the best employees not only applies to every company size, but also to all levels within the company. Every department needs excellent people who are up for the job and do it really well. Who do you consider to be the best, and how do you identify them?

Daniel Grieder: We just gathered our high potentials from around the globe in Norway and assigned them a task which they had to complete together in three days. One has to lead the group, motivate them, and prepare food. It is not at all about titles or credentials, but about the individual and their skills. I am not particularly interested in a person’s grades or

MoneY DoeS PLaY a roLe, BUt not neCeSSarILY tHe FIrSt FIDDLe Yaël Meier

the schools they attended. Self-initiative, courage, and the will to take responsibility are crucial, both for oneself and for others. Not everyone can offer survival training in Norway. What role do education and training play as a career foundation in your eyes, Yaël?

Yaël Meier: The real question is how not to lose potential at this point. Many companies, especially large ones, use algorithms in their application process. Yet these algorithms are designed to do one thing above all else: weed out seemingly unsuitable applicants quickly. No university degree? No need to look at that application. A gap in the CV? Not worth looking at. Not the best grades? Not worth looking at. This results in a great deal of untapped potential, as other promising avenues, such as launching one’s own fashion magazine on TikTok, are ignored.

Let me make one thing clear, I should not have been allowed anywhere near a university with my grade point average. (laughs)

Daniel Grieder: Where do you think I would have ended up? At this point, the Yaël quote I mentioned earlier fits perfectly: “I am 22 years old and have no degree. Yet I teach at one of the best business universities in the world. The Metaverse is so new that I, despite my age, am considered one of the leading experts on the subject. In a world that spins so fast, the importance of age in terms of experience decreases continuously.” With this in mind, how does your agency approach applicant screening?

tHe terM ControLLInG GIveS tHe wronG

IMPreSSIon. It SHoULD reaLLY Be CaLLeD SUPPortInG. Daniel Grieder

Yaël Meier: We receive a fair number of applications. The most important skill we look for in our employees is leadership ability. I am not referring to leadership experience or a capability to lead others as their superiors, but to the ability of leading yourself. In a remote culture and rapidly evolving work environment, we need people who learn quickly and show great drive. We identify this quality in projects that have already been implemented independently – from own fashion collections to the aforementioned fashion magazine on TikTok.

Generation Z is often accused of being strongly motivated by changed values and goals in life. To put it flippantly, they value freedom and flexibility higher than influence and money. Is that really the case, or is it a romanticised portrayal?

Yaël Meier: It is romanticised to some extent, just like the idea that Gen Z is only willing to work for fully climate-neutral companies. But: this generation knows it is in a position to make demands, because the current market is geared towards the labour force. You can pick and choose.

At the same time, various studies show that Gen Z is extremely career-oriented. Its members attach more importance to prestige and salary in a job than Millennials, for whom work-life balance and self-fulfilment were the focus. According to our Gen Z study, in which we surveyed almost 4,500 people with LINK, this group defines meaningfulness much more strongly in terms of performance and success than previous generations. The trend is now shifting back to these classic career goals. From a company’s point of view, these are highly motivated people who make demands.

Where is there a bone of contention between Gen Z and employers?

Yaël Meier: It is worth taking a closer look at their demands. For example, a representative study involving 1,000 Gen Z members told us that 72 percent

wHILe It USeD to Be norMaL tHat YoU HaD to Prove YoUrSeLF BeFore YoU were GIven reSPonSIBILItY, YoUnG taLentS now want to Be GIven reSPonSIBILItY to Prove tHeMSeLveS. Yaël Meier

believe they are not taken seriously in their jobs due to their age. That basically constitutes as age discrimination. We also asked what could improve the situation. In essence, the answers amounted to: “I would like to take on more responsibility. I would like to be able to contribute my ideas. I would like to be heard.”

Three things that are fascinating from an employer’s point of view. These are people who want to get involved, who want to take on responsibility. Yet they are prevented from doing so by the structures that have shaped our working lives for decades. We are required to work our way up in a company until we are allowed to take on responsibility and contribute.

Gen Z demands that at a young age, and that is surely the best thing a company can wish for: people eager to get things done.

Daniel Grieder: There is a problem at management level, too. Yaël and I have discussed this issue before. She pointed out that the average age on supervisory boards is 60+. She asked why those boards do not include young people if this target group is so crucial to companies. I agreed that it is a problem worth looking at. There are, of course, very experienced supervisory board members. And this experience and knowledge is equally essential. Yet the exchange with personalities like Yaël also matters. Let me give a concrete example. We are convinced that the focus lies on the consumer. It is all about the consumer! That means we need to involve people who actually understand Gen Z.

Gen Z on management boards, supervisory boards… will this turn into the next quota discussion?

Yaël Meier: Honestly, I do not think that will be necessary. Companies will, quite simply, be much more successful once they involve young people, including their skills and knowledge, at management level. As soon as one well-known company leads the way, others will follow.

Daniel Grieder: I think it is currently somewhat easier to access this knowledge externally, for example through Yaël’s agency.

We have talked extensively about how to attract young talent to a company, but then the next challenge is to retain them.

Daniel Grieder: If you give people responsibility, then working automatically becomes more fun. Many employees are ready for this responsibility. Here at Hugo Boss, we have committed to values that I have been advocating time and again since I took this job. I received an initial analysis from HR this morning, and there are two aspects we still need to work on: trust and control. If I take my staff seriously, then I trust them. This is a highly significant contributor to the feelgood factor within a company. You do not have to control everything employees do. Trust is one of our core values. If I cannot trust someone, then they should not work here in the first place. Nevertheless, large companies maintain a department literally called controlling. That gives the wrong impression. It should really be called supporting. (laughs)

Gen Z attaCHeS More IMPortanCe to PreStIGe anD SaLarY In a JoB tHan tHe MILLennIaLS, For wHoM worK-LIFe BaLanCe anD SeLF-FULFILMent were tHe FoCUS.

Yaël Meier

Wording can be really important at times. Yet there has to be some instrument of control, has there not?

Yaël Meier: We do not have such a department. We rely on one hundred percent trust, with great success. We are only a small enterprise, but large companies always have small departments with even smaller teams. I believe that you can delegate a great deal of responsibility to each other within such teams. This is where a cultural change comes into play. While it used to be normal that you had to prove yourself before you were given responsibility, young talents now want to be given responsibility to prove themselves. That constitutes a 180-degree turn. Allow me a brief interlude. What is the average age of your employees?

Yaël Meier: The average age is approximately 21.

Daniel Grieder: Wait, what? 21? (laughs) Yaël Meier: The oldest is 26. Our business model requires us to continually become younger, meaning we have to recruit ever-younger people. However, one subconsciously tends to hire people who are similar to oneself. That means I would instinctively rather hire someone who is also 22 than a young woman of 18. But that would be detrimental to the company. Hearing you, as a 22-year-old, talking about bringing in younger people sounds somewhat confusing. When you think about it, though, it does make sense, because things can change so quickly: TikTok, Discord, Metaverse. Are there any current media or socio-cultural phenomena that only young people truly understand? Is Gen Z the only gateway into the Metaverse for companies?

Yaël Meier: Clayton Christensen argued in his Technology Disruption Theory that the next big thing often seems like a toy at first. This makes it incredibly difficult for companies to discern innovations, because they do not take them seriously. But who

IF YoU GIve PeoPLe reSPonSIBILItY, tHen worKInG aUtoMatICaLLY BeCoMeS More FUn. Daniel Grieder

plays with toys? Exactly, young people do! Regarding the Metaverse, companies do not have to be where users do not go. However, you still need to understand the Metaverse or, more precisely, what it could evolve into. You need to know what role your company could play there at some point. This means now is the time to start exploring that topic through research and experimenting. It makes no sense, however, to launch an NFT simply for the sake of it. And yes, new technologies are often embraced by young people.

Daniel Grieder: Naturally, this is an important topic for us. Yet it is not necessarily one which requires us to act immediately on a large scale. We have taken initial steps in this area, but we are also waiting to see what the next entry point might be. I will proceed to invest more when I have identified where exactly the best point is for us to generate business. That being said, I am convinced that the Metaverse will be an additional sales channel for us in the future. For example, we are collaborating with the company Imaginary Ones. They are an extremely exciting partner for concepts in the phygital future. We quite deliberately chose a partner from Asia for this topic. There, they have fast-forward technology and know-how. And their consumers are already very advanced in this area.

Yaël Meier: Gaming, for example, is a powerful business sector with huge potential for all companies. Popular games like Roblox, Minecraft, and Fortnite boast more than 300 million active users and are played billions of hours every month. Fortnite generated in excess of 5 billion US Dollars in revenue in 2021, a large part of which was generated by skins, so digital clothing for avatars. In contrast, if you look at the two most relevant Metaverse offerings at the moment,

namely Sandbox and Decentraland, they each have 1,000 active users.

Yet social media also evolved very rapidly all of a sudden. And many companies would rather not miss the boat this time. How long do you think it will take for the buzzword Metaverse to become the billion US Dollar business that so many expect it to be?

Yaël Meier: I expect it to happen when we have a proper interface for it. My money is on glasses. They will make the Metaverse suitable for everyday use and accessible to everyone. If I were to hazard a prediction, that will happen in the next five to ten years.

Daniel Grieder: It will take that long? That surprises me a little.

Yaël Meier: Only then will we really have arrived in the Metaverse, yes. That by no means rules out further development between now and then – quite the opposite. Every experiment is important. Nike, for example, has acquired RTFKT, who are already generating considerable sales in the Metaverse. But the Metaverse in the true sense does not yet exist. I imagine it will only truly emerge when the physical and digital worlds merge entirely and see eye-to-eye. Maybe the digital world will even increase in importance a little. What we view on a tiny screen now, we will then view through glasses in our everyday lives. It will be the new norm. It will change the fabric of society, and certainly fashion as well.

Does that mean, from your point of view, there will be no iPhone 20?

Yaël Meier: No, probably not. We still need to talk about money. What role does income play for Gen Z in terms of career and life choices?

Daniel Grieder: Income is undoubtedly an important factor, but it is not the only determining one. What counts is the overall package. If the prospects are not promising, or if the job and environment are no fun, then money cannot replace that. Talking to young people, I experience

somewhat of a different approach to life. I attach great importance to catering to as many individual needs as possible when creating a position – and to being flexible. After all, the realities of life change. Of course, that does not always work out. But it is rewarding for every company to be open to unusual models.

Yaël Meier: Money does play a role, but not necessarily the first fiddle. When we assist companies in improving with Gen Z in mind, we consider three pillars: cash, internal appreciation, and external appreciation. If one of these three pillars is off balance, you need to compensate with another. What we observed regarding cash: young people clearly care more about the prospect of a high future salary than an above-average starting salary, meaning a strong employer brand is hard currency.

YaËL MeIer

At 19, Yaël Meier, now 22, founded consulting firm ZEAM in partnership with Jo Dietrich to help companies understand Gen Z. In the same year, Forbes magazine ranked the entrepreneur among the “30 Under 30” in the German-speaking market. In 2022, she published the bestseller “Gen Z für Entscheider:innen” (Gen Z for Decision Makers).

DanIeL GrIeDer

Daniel Grieder can look back on an extraordinary international career in the fashion industry. After a total of 23 years in various management positions at Tommy Hilfiger and PVH, most recently as CEO of Tommy Hilfiger Global and PVH Europe from 2014 to 2020, the then 59-year-old native of Switzerland joined Hugo Boss as CEO in June 2021.

THE COOLEST INDUSTRY IN THE WORLD?

Three cheers for the world of fashion! We wish to sing the praises of our industry, because it celebrates beauty and its transformation, diversity, and uniqueness alike. The ongoing metamorphosis in the fashion industry and in retail creates new fields and challenges that did not even exist until recently. Where else are there so many opportunities for advancement, even for career jumpers? We asked industry insiders to tell us what ignites their passion for their job in fashion time and time again.

Text:

SHAPING EVOLUTION

Christian Teufl, owner of Collectionen Christian Teufl

“Discovering new collections is always fun! I love the moment when I am truly drawn in by the colours and feel of the materials in a collection. This is when my head begins to imagine where the journey is headed. For me, the greatest thrill lies in developing these collections and really shaping their evolution. Where would the label perform best? Which retailer is best equipped to place it? Who loves to tell the corresponding story? The best approach is a direct exchange between brand and retailer, because fashion is first and foremost a people’s business. If the chemistry is right, the fashion industry is the most beautiful in the world.”

INTERACTION

Federica Pantanella, director and founder of Beyond Talent, London

“For me, the fashion industry might not be the coolest in the world, but it is definitely one of the coolest. As an international recruitment agency, we help candidates find the right job in the fashion industry, and we have never had to convince someone about the industry first. Fashion is something you carry within yourself; you notice immediately if someone does not feel it. What I personally like about the fashion industry? Its constant change, and that there are no limits to creativity. Where else can old and young generations share their knowledge and information to create something completely new? Yet the biggest change lies in the new technologies, which are creating new, digital professions alongside the familiar professions in all areas of the fashion industry. We are also talking about the Metaverse here, which is about interacting digitally with customers via an additional platform to gain even more fans. Some fashion and sportswear companies have been particularly early to recognise this, using an omnichannel strategy to offer customers a seamless and personalised brand experience across any device or location. In some stores, you can already discover even more products on a screen, customise a personal offer, and decide what to buy and how. It is brilliant to engage the customer in this way! I am excited about this development, and it is the future of fashion. Because it is changing so fast, the biggest challenge is to understand what will be important in half a year. Then, or in a year at the latest, new rules will apply again and there will be so many new things to learn. That is what I love most: that it never gets boring.”

Janaina Engelmann- Brothánek, Kay Alexander Plonka, Martina Müllner-Seybold, Nicoletta Schaper. Illustrations: Simona Gala Baronti

BEAUTY

Victoria Scaument, Sales at Mayfair, Brussels

“I love the beauty of fashion, and the fact that something can always be reimag ined, even if you only change small details in decoration and staging. Much of the work in our store is performed behind the scenes. It fills me with great pride to lend a hand and then see a great result that surprises and visibly delights customers! I enjoy the familiarity within my team and definitely the communica tive aspect of my job. Providing service is not a hollow phrase for me, but what excites me most. When I look for alternatives until the perfect product range is found, it proves to me that I can make a difference, that our store goes beyond its assortment. After all, there is no greater reward than when the customer leaves the store happy and loaded down with bags.”

GENDER IS AN ILLUSION

Julian Daynov, creative director and trend scout

“Do you know of any other job that combines creativity, art, design, travel, cultures, and fun? I, for one, do not! My job is as versatile as my life. I work as a creative director, trend scout, and brand strategist. I thrive on channelling the full range of my interests, talents, and experiences while visiting the most interesting people and places every day – advancing movements and inspiring people.

It is completely unacceptable to still talk about ‘new’ developments such as e-commerce and digital transformation and to mourn the ‘old’ times. Just take it in. This is the new reality, the new now, the new cool.

Consumer behaviour has changed completely, expectations in terms of service and transparency have increased, yet the most exciting development of all concerns us humans. We are freer, braver, more open, more liberal, more willing to experiment, and more curious than previous generations of consumers. A social and ideological shift is taking place. We have understood that fashion is an expression of our inner world and values. I am delighted that the collective social transformation is being embraced and that people are slowly abandoning outdated patterns and dogmas!

A completely liberal generation that rethinks the original attributes of fashion is coming of age. Gender is an illusion, and this is becoming much more apparent. Even traditional players are adapting their collections and values, such as trouser specialist Raffaello Rossi, who is launching a new capsule under ROSSI that defines gender as an abstract construct of old and outdated beliefs. The world is moving and so should we. You know it best - style is always in progress!”

STATEMENT

Mimi Sewalski, Managing Director of Avocadostore

“What excites me about fashion? On the one hand, of course, the fashion itself. But above all, I am thrilled by the new aspiration to transform fashion itself into a sustainable statement. Green is the new black! Today there is a powerful movement, especially among young people, who recognise the need to change the world through fashion. Collection cycles are being re-imagined, materials reinvented, and production chains and working conditions questioned. I also started my job with this aspiration. Fashion is also a means of doing good.”

VALUES AND CHANGE

Mark Hommelberg, CEO of Garcia

“The fashion industry is unpredictable, ever-changing, and always developing. What happens behind the scenes of creating and selling new products is just as important as responding to the wishes and needs of consumers, which is why fashion retail appeals to me so much. In a world that is constantly changing, it is a challenge to stick to your brand heritage.”

COURAGE AND FREEDOM

Kristina Bobkova, designer, Kiev “Personally, I do not believe that fashion is the best industry in the world in general. I am doing this just because I love it the most. Honestly, I cannot imagine my life without creating new collections. In the past, I used to be inspired by people, traveling to unusual and beautiful places, museums, books, and movies. Yet since the beginning of the fullscale Russian invasion, it does not seem possible to find any inspiration in such things anymore. All my thoughts now revolve only about news from Ukraine. My new collection was inspired by my country, its culture, the power of Ukrainians, their courage, and freedom.”

EMBRACING CURRENTS

Marino Edelmann, Managing Brand Director at

Strellson

“I love the industry because there is no other that absorbs and reflects so many influences and currents – be it political, cultural, or social. You could say that fashion is somewhat of a mirror of society and the times we live in. Being able to incorporate this into our work every day is extremely exciting.”

CLOTHES MAKE THE INDIVIDUAL

Paolo Ventrella, Sales at Agentur Komet & Helden

“My job throws up new challenges every day, and my work is very diverse. Sometimes I visit the manufacturer, then I am in the office, on the street, or at a store check. The other day, I spotted a man in a Blauer jacket at the petrol station and knew straight away that I had sold this jacket to his retailer. It is cool to realise how the market responds!

In my job as an agent, I can establish something faster and easier than in other industries, where it often takes years to climb the ladder. One of the most fascinating aspects of my job is how differently you can market the same collection: from classic conventional to super high end. Our industry communicates extensively, which suits me, as a communicative person, perfectly, and I enjoy speaking my mother tongue, Italian, as well as German and English. This allows me to explore different points of view or obtain insider tips, for example about which brand is popular in another country. I am often amazed at how late fashion reaches the German market sometimes!

Fashion will never die out, and those who label it superficial underestimate that one always sends a message with one’s clothes. Clothes always make the individual.”

SHARING INSPIRATION

Nina Dzjaboea, Buying Manager Women’s Fashion at de Bijenkorf, Amsterdam

“There is always room for creativity, fashion is ever evolving and ever revolving: colours, silhouettes, fabrics, trends, sustainability, and much more. Apart from that, we have the opportunity to travel and explore the world of fashion, which is very inspiring. It is great that we can share our passion for fashion and experiences with the customers of de Bijenkorf.”

PUSHING BOUNDARIES

Myon Veenendaal, founder and Brand Director of 10DAYS Lifestyle

“For 10DAYS, the fashion industry means that there is never a dull moment: People working in fashion are often a melting pot of creative people with various backgrounds, sharing a passion for culture and lifestyle. Apart from that, we enjoy the constant innovation in shapes, colours, and fabrics. And since several years we witness a decrease of fashion etiquette that suits our brand. The strict boundaries between office wear/party wear and leisurewear keep on blurring and that is exactly how we like it. But true opportunities are found in producing in the most sustainable way, in line with our brand’s values. To us, that is where the fashion industry can push boundaries. And with this we do not mean producing more products more sustainably, but producing less as sustainable as possible and in better quality, so you can enjoy your garments better and longer.”

CO-DESIGN

Luisa Vossebrecher, Brand Manager at Better Rich “In my role as brand manager, I am responsible for conveying to the customer what Better Rich stands for and what makes us tick. Translating the brand’s DNA into a wide variety of marketing activities – from social media to the visual language in the online store, to the tissue paper of the packaging – is incredibly exciting. It is a highly versatile, fun job! I only recently took on the job as brand manager and first changes are already visible.”

There are few other industries that move so quickly. Those who are connected to the world of design and aesthetics will always discover fascinating interactions with architecture and art in fashion and explore themes that correspond to or are ahead of the zeitgeist of the modern world.

It is currently not easy to work in this industry, but it is precisely in times of crisis that the fashion system seizes the opportunity to improve, to learn new things, to grow, and to provide us all with a prosperous outlook for the future.”

munication. It allows you to express emotions, distinguish yourself from the mainstream – or even be discreetly reserved. This paradox fascinates me anew time and again. Fashion people are usually creative – characters who do not follow a norm and with whom you can rediscover the world a little. The fashion industry is a place where you can grow old and stay young, because you are always surrounded by young minds that sweep you along. This is not a given in many industries. Fashion is not only about clothing, but also about materials and craftsmanship. We need textiles. They are an expression of our different cultures – just think of the finesse of Italian and French fashion designers, or the certain pragmatism of American companies or the refinement of Asia. I am convinced: fashion is the ambassador that allows cultures to learn from each other.”

GENERATING HAPPINESS

Silvia Ambrosini, Head of Customer Care at Cruna

“My job is the best in the world. That may sound hyperbolic, but it is. I started working in this industry at the age of 18, initially as a sales assistant in a fashion boutique. Today, I am head of customer care and, as sales manager, responsible for the women’s line at Cruna. Direct contact with end consumers and retailers fascinates me and brings me joy. Service and trust are the foundation of my work. Advice and support, always individual, are what define you as the best salesperson. The customer needs to be happy and satisfied. I consider it a privilege to work for a young company like Cruna, which does not only operate for profit, but is committed to genuine ‘Made in Italy’ and fair working conditions. It is wonderful to be part of this story.”

IMPACT

Mats Klingberg, CEO and founder of Trunk Clothiers

“I can think of a thousand reasons why I would always choose fashion entrepreneurship over a corporate career. Most of all, though, I love that we have such an immediate impact on people’s lives. Someone who wears well-crafted and excellent quality tells us much about themselves, regardless of whether they are wearing it for leisure or for business. Plus, I could rave endlessly about how creative buying and product development are. And then there is human interaction – be it with customers or with the people who create such fantastic things. Honestly? Where else can you find a job that is so varied every day, that has this unpredictable and also risky element. This unpredictability, the ups and downs – what could be more rewarding than that?”

ON STAGE!

Giorgio Dantone, founder of Daad Dantone “We have been doing this for a few years now, and our company even received the Forbici d’oro award. Yet we not only transfer skills, but also tell stories and bring designers to life. When everything comes together, it is like an orchestra performing a symphony. And quite honestly: no matter what role we play in this orchestra, we love the stage that I believe our Daad Dantone store represents.”

Just Give It a GO

New reality, new jobs:

the transformation of the fashion industry not only creates new opportunities, but also people who understand how to capitalise on them. These new fields of work are often born out of simple reasons. No one else has dared to try it yet, so someone simply gives it a go. That is precisely the pioneering spirit that sets our industry apart. What do these new jobs have in common? They can hardly be learned or taught in a traditional setting. Yet that has never stopped anyone, especially in our industry, from implementing and multiplying a good idea.

Fashionphile THE

LUXURY BAG DETECTIVES

“Faux Friday” sounds like the fashion industry’s equivalent to the “Friday the 13th” horror movie franchise. But at luxury reseller Fashionphile, “Faux Friday” means a team building quiz show revolving around a counterfeit item. Who can spot what is wrong with this Birkin bag or Chanel flap? Authenticators can, proudly sharing their latest knowledge. Like detectives, they hunt for clues with a magnifier, spend hours researching a hardware detail, or use X-rays to grasp a designer bag’s construction. Their goal: becoming a master authenticator after two years of training. Lara Osborn, Vice President of Procurement and Authentication at Fashionphile, explains what it takes.

Text: Petrina Engelke. Photos: Petrina Engelke/Fashionphile

Lara, how do you learn to distinguish an authentic luxury bag from a fake?

We treat each brand as its own unique training module. A Saint Laurent handbag and a Valentino handbag have different construction techniques, and the hardware quality could vary from one designer to the next. Some may have an RFID piece embedded within the construction, others may have no markers whatsoever. There are tests, a minimum number of hours, and a minimum unit count that an authenticator needs to have inspected and declared authentic or fake – with the help of a senior who needs to sign off on all of those pieces. Once you have

proved that you can work independently on a given brand, we introduce another brand. After all these levels you get to the point where you train others and create a curriculum, and that is called a master authenticator. Are the counterfeiters also becoming masters of their craft?

There are definitely counterfeiters who are getting better at their job, because there is a bigger margin if you can sell a 2,000 US Dollar counterfeit Birkin Bag that costs 400 US Dollars to make, rather than making a bag for 50 US Dollars and selling it for 150 US Dollars. However, we are not necessarily trying to keep up with the counterfeiters, because knowing any variation of counterfeit will not make us immune. Instead, we focus on what is authentic. It is really important to get as much exposure to the pieces as possible. And then we can spot anything else, whether it is a fake of high or low quality.

That sounds like a brand-new profession. Well, this profession is pretty new in the US. I would say it goes back 15 or 20 years. But in our Tokyo office, we have three or four authenticators that have been in Japan’s industry collectively for over 60 years. Today, this is a career path for individuals who are interested in the fashion industry or the sustainability mindset.

About You

“I STRIVE TO LEAVE MY MARK”

Julian Jansen, Content Director at About You, refers to himself as traffic specialist. Very few jobs are further ahead. He has held the position since 2015 and has experienced an eventful year: About You’s first Fashion Week in Milan and international collabs with Bella Hadid, Katy Perry, and Millie Bobby Brown – as well as the launch of the NFT platform Hypewear and a collection in cooperation with CyberKongz.

Text: Rüdiger Oberschür. Photos: About You, Julian Jansen

Julian, how do you go from TV editor to content director?

Facebook was in its infancy when I was the editorial director of Germany’s Next Topmodel (GNTM). It enabled the first GNTM contestants to build up a following and considerable reach. This development gave rise to the idea that this reach should be monetised in some way. The idea evolved into You & Idol: giving followers the opportunity to recreate their idol’s wardrobe and to attract traffic to one’s own site through the idol’s reach – in short: today’s influencer model. The term influencer did not exist back then, of course.

About You did not exist back then either. How did you first get in touch with Tarek Müller and his team?

Nine years ago, my long-time friend and colleague Chris Nickel and I were sitting in the office of Benjamin Otto and Tarek Müller, who were about to launch an online shop that would focus on an app, ultimately reflecting the very idea of You & Idol. We launched a week later, and a year after that, we implemented and scaled the model in About You’s online shop. Idols evolved into influencers, and together we created our celebrity collections, most recently the ones featuring Bella Hadid and ‘florence by mills’. What still excites you about this job today?

I initially aspired to be self-employed in an entrepreneurial capacity. While that may not be the case on paper now, it certainly feels like it. Chris and I enjoy the full backing and trust of the management. I strive to think big, make things happen, and leave my mark. About You allows me these freedoms. This year’s first international Fashion Week in Milan was definitely yet another major personal milestone.

“At a platform like About You, I collaborate 360 degrees with all units of the company,” says Julian Jansen, who, as Content Director, sig-

nificantly

contributes to the celebrity concept of About You.

“OVERCONSUMPTION IS THE SYMPTOM OF A SOCIETAL DISEASE”

As a fashion journalist, you have been embedded in the world of fashion for a long time. When did you realise that you wanted to step off the consumption merry-go-round?

When I gave birth to my second child. At that time, I was researching the climate crisis and began questioning the purpose of what I was doing. I consequently abstained from consuming a single fashion item for a whole year. I engaged in a great deal of self-reflection that year. I asked myself what makes me happy and whether I really need certain things. Do you consider your message to be good or bad news for the fashion industry as such? Is this not a declaration of war on the retail trade?

Not at all. I believe my approach is feasible as long as you focus on longevity, quality, repairs, and circular fashion. I am not opposed to consumption in general, but rather to the manner in which we consume. We consume more than we need. Modern overconsumption is the symptom of a societal disease. We try to buy happiness, but that does not work –nor is it sustainable for our planet. What could you do to introduce retailers to an “only buy when you need to” concept? How could a retailer implement a sustainable strategy with you, for example?

Did you know that Patagonia has gained popularity and sold more than ever since their DON’T BUY THIS JACKET

campaign? The key is to harness the momentum of doing things differently. Those who deliberately do things differently gain trust. To give you an example, I recently organised a styling tour with OSKA to raise brand awareness within the young target group. It is important that we create awareness for the sustainable movement and support companies that already embrace a sustainable approach. I can get behind that! Do you have any tips for brands/retailers who wish to shift to a sustainable path without losing the bulk of their sales? What should they focus on?

On the one hand, they should focus on new recycling techniques, re-design, upcycling, repairs, and second-hand, in order to offer lucrative services aside from sales. On the other hand, they should pay close attention to quality, sustainable production, and proactive transparency. This is where the materials come from. This is how they are processed. Material science and care recommendations are equally important. Labels that tell the wearer how to maintain a piece – or inform customers that a certain item also empowers the people who sewed it – are helpful too. This allows brands to create a bond with their customers, get to know them, and offer them added value. These are businesses that customers like to buy from regularly. Collaborating with magazines and (micro-) influencers who advocate sustainability is a great way to create brand awareness and reach. When companies become role models for sustainability and it feels weird to buy fast fashion, we are on the right track!

Janine Dudenhöffer is a sustainable stylist. She helps her clients shop in their own wardrobes to create new styles in a more sustainable manner. She sat down with style in progress to talk about the future of sustainability in retail.

Text: Saskia Langejürgen. Photos: Stefan Bösl, Lina Grün

“I WOULD HAVE BEEN OVERLOOKED”

Steffen Liese has ascended the stylish ladder of the fashion industry like no other. At only 39 years of age, he is now the head of JD Sports in Germany. He sat down with style in progress to share his journey.

You had a real cold start in retail, yet today you are the managing director of JD Sports in Germany. Are such careers only possible in fashion?

I do not think it is sector specific. Such careers are possible anywhere, but they are often very difficult to achieve. Especially in Germany, many talents are overlooked because too much importance is attached to formalities instead of focusing on the passion that drives people like myself. If I had not been lucky enough to receive support from the right people at the right time, I would have been overlooked too.

The number of young people who would consider retail as a full-time career is decreasing. Can the situation be reversed, or will retailers have to come up with alternatives? A shortage of labour currently exists in all sectors. Skilled workers are no longer the only ones in high demand. The labour market is developing into an employee market and every company must ask itself questions such as: How do I make myself ffit for the future? How do I become an employer of choice? Today, the company has to apply to the employee, not the other way round.

Is this an image problem of the retail trade? Can it be resolved by sharing personal success stories like yours to whet the appetite of the next generation?

Retail has an image problem in Germany, there is no denying that. Germany is very degree-oriented and title-fixated. Fashion retail ranks low in terms of status and, at the latest since the pandemic, it has become clear that it is not crisis-proof. Moreover, self-determination and work-life balance are key issues, especially among the young Gen Z. A 5-day week seems unappealing in this context. In my opinion, we will have no alternative to adopting concepts such as the 4-day week, employee-focused working time models, and above-average pay packages beyond holiday and Christmas bonuses. Avoiding that should not be our goal, anyway. A functioning culture of appreciation is crucial, including transparency, communication, talent development, and sharing success stories. As soon as we start perceiving ourselves as opportunity providers for the next generation, we will become more attractive. When did you realise that fashion is your passion, and that this fascination could help you on your way to the top?

I developed a great interest in fashion when I was 13. I was Generation Viva. I bought the styles that inspired me on TV. I always enjoyed picking out clothes and loved advising friends and family. After graduating from high school, I realised that I should pursue a career in fashion, and when a friend alerted me to a retail assistant apprenticeship at H&M, it was the logical next step.

What is the most underestimated talent of a sales consultant on the floor? And what title would you find most suitable?

The job as a whole is far too undervalued. Technological improvements in stores are not the only factor that requires greater expertise. The increasing demands of customers are also a major contributor. In times of increasing diversity and internationality, soft skills are becoming increasingly important. Sustainability know-how is a prerequisite, while brand values must be understood, experienced, and communicated. I would consider brand influencer to be a contemporary term, as the brand presence is directly steered in a certain direction.

APPLY!

It is exactly the other way round. Employees are no longer applying to employers, but companies are vying for the favour of applicants. If you want to attract the gems, you need to be attractive in new disciplines. A generation that could not care less about a company car and can no longer be motivated by the bonuses of yesteryear poses new challenges for employers. The fact that people are not a resource, or even capital, is the most fundamental lesson. Working hours, contracts, benefits, and terms are as individual as the people involved. It is a model that goes beyond regulations and egalitarianism, yet it is all the more worthwhile. After all, this new sense of mutuality promises a whole new sense of responsibility – on both sides.

Text: Martina Müllner-Seybold, Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Interviewees

12 glore stores in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland –and counting. The glore friendchise concept has recently fostered several openings from within the company. Employees become entrepreneurs, individually coached by veteran glore store owners.

glore “FROM DREAM TO REALITY”

Bernd, some of the glore friendchise partners are former employees of the various glore locations. Does that mean every team member can become a captain?

Bernd Hausmann, founder and captain of glore: First and foremost, because many people are not aware of this, we are not a chain, but rather a group of independent entrepreneurs operating the various branches. The option is open to all employees. Anyone who fancies it can become self-employed with us. Locations like Augsburg, Karlsruhe, and Ingolstadt are examples where this has become reality. How are employees prepared for such a responsibility?

A great deal stems from the people. You do not become an entrepreneur by chance, but because you have the desire to create within you. Many of our colleagues within the glore network start up relatively young, in their 20s, which is certainly unique. We provide concrete support and coaching, and the founders also appreciate our exchange with each other later on. glore was the first sustainable concept store in Germany. Does that impress the young generation of founders?

Our credibility certainly helps, but the main motivation is born out of the desire to make a concrete contribution to a better, sustainable world. Our friendchisees certainly do not think 'Oh, there is a lot of money to be made in fashion, so I shall open a glore store'. On the contrary, they are idealists.

Family entrepreneur by conviction: Kathrin Proft manages the Stapf, Felicitas, and Hans brands alongside the Dollinger trading company.

Stapf “OUR VALUES ARE TANGIBLE!”

How do you inspire applicants?

Kathrin Proft, Managing Partner at Stapf: Via the brand itself and its sustainable orientation. We rely on natural materials; we manufacture by hand and locally. We communicate this on our website, with an image film and on social media. Many explicitly tell us that they apply because sustainability is important to them, and they think it is great that we manufacture in Tyrol.

Young people can choose their employer nowadays. Have the demands changed?

Home office has become more common, but it is not easy to implement in design, for example, because we work a great deal in teams and like to try things out live. But we make compromises. Many young applicants are particularly interested in jobs that did not exist previously: putting products and

descriptions online for the web shop, for example, or working for the online service team instead of in the call centre.

What is the ultimate determining factor?

The atmosphere within the organisation. Many appreciate the fact that we are a young team – they feel the spirit. You can view our collection straight away, as well as our production. Everyone is really excited about that!

She seeks the radiance in her applicants, enjoys creating opportunities, and fosters talent: Constanze Köbberling, authorised signatory and head of human resources at Lodenfrey am Dom, is responsible for 400 employees.

“COMING HOME”

CVs only interest her as a starting point for unexpected questions during job interviews: Constanze Köbberling, authorised signatory and head of human resources at Lodenfrey am Dom, oversees the careers of 400 employees. In an interview with style in progress, the experienced HR manager promotes empathy for Gen Z and their demands on employers.

Interview: Martina Müllner. Text: Veronika Zangl. Photos: Lodenfrey am Dom

Recent years have posed great challenges for everyone, not least due to the pandemic. Lodenfrey is a company with 400 employees. How has your recruitment strategy changed?

Constanze Köbberling, authorised signatory and Head of HR at Lodenfrey: Several things have changed regarding recruitment. Until late 2021, we were as defensive as everyone else in terms of hiring new talent. Then 2022 rolled around, breaking records month after month. I gradually began to realise that I would need to adopt an unconventional recruiting strategy for our Oktoberfest months. How was I supposed to conjure up 100 people in our market segment at short notice? We decided to take a completely new approach by focusing on the hourly wage. Flyers at universities, advertising on the radio – Lodenfrey am Dom had never done any of that. All measures referred to a speed dating event in the Lodenfrey canteen. Anyone was welcome to drop

Lodenfrey

in, no registration necessary. We actually managed to hire 45 people on the spot – out of approximately 60 people who turned up. That is a high quota. Does that leave time to study CVs?

No, and frankly I only read CVs to raise one or two questions that applicants may not expect. The most important aspect for me is to discern whether someone inspires me, whether they have that glow in their eyes, and whether they exhibit strong service potential. We provide training opportunities for professional competence. Obviously, I am delighted if someone has previous experience, but, at the end of the day, that is not the decisive factor. We know that we offer incentives that attract talent. The current difficult situation is perhaps precisely why people apply for a job at a traditional company like Lodenfrey. The war in Ukraine, the energy crisis, the rising cost of living, and the threat of inflation are creating so much uncertainty at the moment. This also impacts the labour market. Gen Z is struggling, yet this is the generation we wish to recruit.

That is correct. According to forecasts, this generation will account for one in four jobs in ten years’ time. Yet it is often ridiculed. Why?

Exactly, and the circumstances are already changing. Gen Z chooses the employer who seems most attractive on the market, and that is invariably the one who is most responsive to their needs. In other words: job security, purpose, self-determination, and consideration of work-life balance. These topics are openly addressed by applicants in job interviews – unthinkable for my generation! So, this is where I like to counter with what is considered a provocative statement.

Perhaps Gen Z is simply more self-confident than the Baby Boomer generation. After all, it costs a company a great deal if an employee suffers a burnout. That's bad for ones reputation and constitutes a setback. However, if employees work part-time instead, and they are healthier as a result, it benefits the company. How does Gen Z move us forward?

They demand flat hierarchies, as they question existing structures in order to work in a self-determined

and meaningful way. That is why they challenge their superiors. So, we need managers who can inspire people and draw them in. The boss should be someone employees enjoy working for, a coach who helps them develop. For this to happen, however, superiors must also question themselves – even if they have been with the company for twenty years and may have become a bit too comfy. This generation no longer tolerates such practices. Every manager has to prove every day that they are entitled to their position. That may be challenging, but it is also rewarding. The aspect you mention here is beautiful, and it leads me to the point that every generation has its legitimacy. All we have to do is listen and learn what our purpose is now.

When looking for the perfect employer, Gen Z does not focus on profit maximisation, but on other topics such as sustainability or a satisfied workforce. The fashion industry is concerned with the same issues. After all, employees are not arbitrarily replaceable. In retail, we benefit from customer loyalty created by talents who have that unique sales gene. If they are not happy in our company, however, our own success is called into question.

Fluctuation is high in sales. How is the situation at Lodenfrey?

Our employees remain with us for an average of 12 to 15 years. We even have employees who have been with us for 40 years, from apprenticeship to retirement. Moreover, the return rate is high. Some employees move on after completing their apprenticeship. I totally support that, too, because it offers new perspectives, and I am delighted when Lodenfrey can provide a solid steppingstone into the fashion industry. The more restless candidates in particular sow their wild oats this way. They can learn something new out there. Yet some give us a call after five to six years, asking if they can come home. They really use the phrase “come home”. That is, without doubt, the greatest compliment for any company.

NEED MUCH MORE INDIVIDUALITY”

Nico, in a tourist region such as Lenzerheide, employees are perhaps the most important key to success. Are you affected by staff shortage? We are in the fortunate position of still receiving sufficient applications. Moreover, we have a great mix of long-serving employees and new talent – including seasonal staff, of course. We currently employ 42 people year-round and increase that number to 65 on a seasonal basis. We have benefited from the development of our region in this respect. With its focus on biking, Lenzerheide is now also a summer destination for tourists. How much individuality does it take to cater to employees’ wishes?

The zeitgeist has changed dramatically. The idea of covering all employees with a standard contract is a complete illusion. In this regard, labour law is simply not keeping pace with popular aspirations. I advocate for restoring greater co-determination to the workforce. After all, we are dealing with mature, adult individuals who are more than capable of filing tax returns. So, why should I, as an employer, not trust them to know what they want to accomplish at work? Many of our employees attach great importance to the ability of pursuing their sport after intensive days at work. We need a much more individual scope for flexible models. And we need to overcome this long-obsolete mindset that

employers seek to exploit their staff. All we wish for is to facilitate what these talents wish for themselves! Is this freedom the key to satisfaction?

It is not the only factor. We invest heavily in human resources, and I am a strong advocate of allowing them to take centre stage. We believe in our people and their potential. Modern workers are not tempted by a dangling carrot, and we are not a school either. I encourage my team to make quick decisions, while also allowing room for mistakes. Only those who can react directly to a request or complaint are taken seriously by the demanding customers we attract.

Are these quick decisions always correct? In most cases they are, yes. And even if they are not, I would rather hear people say that Pesko is competent and fast than hear them complain that Pesko employees always need to call a supervisor first. The internet is fast, so we need to be fast offline. Customer centricity is – and remains – the magic formula.

Pesko in Lenzerheide celebrated its 111th birthday in 2022. The tradition-steeped sports and fashion retailer celebrated this milestone with its own magazine and forward-looking projects.

Pesko

“WE

Pesko celebrated its 111th anniversary in Lenzerheide, Switzerland, in 2022. In matters of personnel, the company allows maximum scope for individuality. style in progress spoke to owner Nico Pesko.

Text: Martina Müllner. Photos: Pesko

Allows scope for passion: Nico Pesko is happy to surrender the store’s stage to his staff of up to 65 passionate specialists, depending on the season.

“CONSUMERS WANT TO BE ENTERTAINED”

A training programme for digital floor managers revitalises the profession of fashion sales assistant and opens up new, digital customer segments for established fashion retailers. style in progress discussed the idea behind the new digital floor manager programme with idea provider Uwe Bernecker and initiator Barbara Koch. Text: Veronika Zangl. Photos: Staff Solutions

The hybrid retail model is seen as the future, yet training is lagging behind. The certified digital floor manager course is about to change that.

You are famed for creative solutions, Uwe. How did you come up with the idea of the digital floor manager?

Uwe Bernecker, CEO of Funky Staff: Funky Staff launched social media courses during the first two years of the pandemic. This self-help offer was very well received and culminated in the digital floor manager. The objective is to make the sales employee more valuable and economical. Declining customer frequency coupled with a shortage of talent are warning signals for retailers. Yet what can be changed? During idle periods, the employee should not be forced to re-sort the goods for the tenth time or replace the cleaning staff. It makes much more sense for staff to engage on social media when the store is empty, thereby increasing footfall and customer loyalty. This enables retailers to establish a digital clientele while also making the job more attractive to young people.

Is the job description of the digital floor manager exclusively suited to Generation Z?

Barbara Koch, Managing Director of Staff Solutions: No, quite the opposite. We emphasise diversity and want the digital floor manager to appeal to all generations, including the older ones. The only prerequisite is a certain online aptitude, as this is a hybrid model that combines the advantages of the physical and online POS. The training lasts six months and is Dekra certified. What is primarily taught during this time?

Barbara Koch: We explain the basics of digital floor management such as roles and tools, as well as hacks and next-level skills. It is not enough for an employee to incessantly point the camera at products. Customers want to be entertained.

His social media training courses initiated at short notice during the pandemic allowed the idea to mature in Funky Staff founder Uwe Bernecker and Carolin Timm (CEO Handelsgeist).

A strong online presence also increases recognisability, resulting in a triad of awareness, likeability, and utilisation. This has a hugely positive effect on turnover. We also explain the implementation and interconnection of multichannel concepts and online channels. Personal shopping and live shopping are exciting topics. Many businesses that started doing this during the lockdowns – and stuck with it – are achieving incredible success. We explain what it takes to make it work. A fantastic bonus is that the training is subsidised up to 100 percent by the German federal employment agency.

Barbara Koch from Staff Solutions puts the course into practice.

They are hubs of passion, creativity, and innovation.

Modern fashion retail is a commitment to shouting “so what” at the world – loudly and confidently. Retail represents the magic of turning an idea into a reality. More than ever.

Text: Janaina Engelmann-Brothánek, Martina Müllner, Kay Alexander Plonka, Nicoletta Schaper, Veronika Zangl

Mimi Moden/Hof

“I HAVE THE BEST CUSTOMERS IN THE WORLD”

“We provide the little luxuries,” says Kathrin Greim. “One should treat oneself to something, especially when times are difficult.” Her shop, with its rustic high vaulted ceiling and elegantly simple interior, invites visitors to explore womenswear by brands such as Drykorn, Closed, Transit, and Absolut Cashmere. “I adore purist fashion that is timeless and enduring,” the shopkeeper explains. “Yet it should not lack a special touch in details either.” Adornments complement the range, for example colourfully printed silk dresses by Herzensangelegenheiten, jackets with sophisticated zipper details by

Beaumont, or A-shape jackets with voluminous collars by Montenegri.

The little luxuries do not only refer to the product range, but also to small talk for the soul. “We radiate a certain ease – informal and uncomplicated. If a customer cannot find what she is looking for, she gladly returns another time.” Over time, some customers have become friends; and social media has enabled Greim to strengthen the bond even more in recent years. “When my customers spot a piece online, they contact me to ask if I could procure it for them,” she smiles. “This support is incredibly rewarding for me! I have the best customers in the world.”

MIMI MODEN

Ludwigstrasse 33, Hof/Germany, www.mimi-moden.de

Opening: July 2015

Owner: Kathrin Greim

Sales area: 100 sqm

Brands for women: among others, Annette Görtz, Beaumont, Closed, Drykorn, Herzensangelegenheiten, Philo-Sofie, Rundholz, Seventy, Transit, Tandem, Absolut Cashmere, Ania Schierholt

Accessory brands: Copenhagen, Mabel the Belt, Marjana von Berlepsch

Photos: Mimi Moden

Kathrin Greim adores purism, yet also values special details.

athrin Greim is the heart and soul of Mimi Moden.

Coolness and atmosphere are guaranteed by vintage furniture in industrial chic, as well as a selection of vinyl records – both second-hand and in new limited editions.

Àttic Store/Bolzano TEMPERAMENT AND CLARITY

Àttic Store does not stock big names. The concept store with an individual profile and a great deal of character does, in fact, something much better than that. Vintage furniture from Paris and Milan lends the store its industrial, cool look.

The lamp from the 1940s, as well as the large, crumpled leather sofa and the 1980s loudspeakers, are all available for purchase on-location or online. The fact that customers enjoy spending time in the shop is partly attributable to the proprietors, who run the business in a friendly, family-like manner and are characterised by a combination of Italian temperament and German clarity. The product range is equally influential. The team has gradually developed Àttic Store into a destination for exciting niche brands, mostly with Italian roots, whose stories they love sharing. They all have personal – even friendly – relationships with the labels. Examples include Tela9, a womenswear label that contem-

porarily interprets elegance, and Ombra di Foglia, whose mix of materials and cuts is inspired by Japan. The Art259 collection, on the other hand, is a little more rock’n’roll. It stems from the same fashion house as the new AA Alberto leather line and also appeals to younger customers. The elaborate shirts by Mosca hail from Treviso, while Arovescio is synonymous with high-quality cashmere and merino knitwear. Henrik Vibskow of Sweden is back after a four-year absence, striking a balance between playful experimentation and wearable fashion. On top of that, the store offers denim by The Nim and Don The Fuller, which round off the range in a more casual context.

ÀTTIC STORE

Silbergasse 5, Bolzano/Italy www.attic-store.com Opening: 2009 Employees: 4 Sales area: 130 sqm

Brands for women: among others Art259, Bottega Chilometri Zero, Don The Fuller, Es Givien, Henrik Vibskov, Neirami, Nuovo Borgo, Ombra Di Foglia, Serie Numerica, Tela9, Violeta Nevenova

Brands for men: among others Atomo Factory, Art259, Arovescio, Bastille Rive Driote, Bottega Chilometri Zero, Cruna, DNL, Holubar, Mosca, Soup To Nuts, The Nim

Accessory brands: AA Alberto Affinito, Autry, Goldkorn, Goti, Rewop Milano, Private 0204, Shoto, Trakatan, Valentina Banella, Wams, Wola Knit

Italian niche labels and plenty of special pieces lend Àttic Store its unique character.

Photos: Àttic Store

ISSIMO was launched as a digital extension of the Pellicano universe, but it is now also available to buy in physical form due to its great success. The ISSIMO label is reserved for all products inspired by the ideas of Marie-Louise Sciò, CEO and Creative Director of the Pellicano Group.

Fresh and bright – the concept of the hotel boutique La Boutique is a resounding success.

THE HOTEL BOUTIQUE OF SUPERLATIVES

“Bellissimo,” is the first thought you whisper upon entering La Boutique at Hotel Il Pellicano in Porto Ercole. Is it the location? Is it the store design? Is it the collections? The wonderful interplay of all these elements and, of course, the recognisable signature of Italy’s most stylish hotelier, Marie-Louise Sciò, is what makes this place so special. After launching La Boutique in 2001, the CEO and Creative Director of the Pellicano Group has reinvented hotel boutiques over the years, creating a space where Italy and the Italian way of life are celebrated with elegance and grandeur. Sciò developed the idea for ISSIMO, a digital extension of the Pellicano universe, in 2020: “It is an exploration of our culture, philosophy, and taste.” The categories on display are titled Bellissimo (handmade home wear and Italian craftsmanship), Buonissimo (culinary stories, delicacies, and recipes from Italy), Chichissimo (Italian fashion and clothing), Coltissimo (articles on Italian culture and collaborations in the cultural field), Fichissimo (the souvenir shop of Pellicano hotels), and Italianissimo (the quintessential travel guide through Italian

regions, beautifully written and featuring personal perspectives of various guest authors). The suffix ISSIMO represents the absolute superlative of adjectives in the Italian language – hence no other name would have been more appropriate.

LA BOUTIQUE/IL PELLICANO

Località Sbarcatello, 58019 Porto Ercole

Opening: 2001

Owner: Pellicano Hotels Sales area: approx. 110 sqm Brands: Acheval Pampa, Dianora Salviati, Figue, Jil Sander, James Perse, La Double J, Lisa Corti, Pallas Pampa, On the Island, Pellini, Romantic was Born, Vibi Venezia, Lutz Morris, Zimmermann, Armor Lux, Riviera, Boglioli, Fedeli, Tesi cappelli, Rianna+Nina

La Boutique, Il Pellicano/Porto Ercole

La Boutique at Il Pellicano in Porto Ercole is a hidden gem.

Excellent service: Mayfair’s passionate sales team.

Mayfair BXL/Brussels A REAL GEM

Wow, what a store! Upon entering Mayfair, the visitors begin a special voyage of discovery. The creators of the concept store have succeeded in uniting fashion, interior, and art into tangible worlds under one roof.

La Maison Mayfair is a real gem located on the posh Boulevard de Waterloo in Brussels. This is Mehmet Sandurac’s second branch besides his concept store in Waterloo and has been setting new standards in the Belgian capital since 2021.

There is plenty to discover while wandering through the rooms, and everything is carefully selected to appeal to the senses. The womenswear section ranges from timeless basics to unique and sometimes more daring pieces, for example by Isabel Marant, Forte Forte, or Valentine Witmeur. Men can browse urban menswear by brands including Aspesi, Closed, or Eleventy Milano.

Yet fashion is only one aspect. The store also stocks art books, some of which are limited editions by Assouline, Taschen, and TeNeues, alongside candles by Baobab and culinary delights by Maison Brémond or Chandon. A separate area is dedicated to art photography by YellowKorner. Upstairs, exquisite furniture

is stylishly juxtaposed with equally exclusive decorative pieces by Eichholtz, Jonathan Adler, or Polspotten.

Mayfair stands for more than just a carefully curated product range. “If you cannot find a certain item, ask us and we will locate it or try to source it for you. From fashion to interiors, we not only strive to provide customers with what they buy, but also to offer them the best possible service and advice, regardless of budget.” Victoria Scaument is part of the store’s young sales team, and her passion is contagious. “We operate like a family business,” the Belgian says. “There is plenty behind-the-scenes work to do in order to surprise our customers again and again, and we lend each other a hand whenever necessary. I believe that keeps us grounded, and that is what our customers sense and like about us.”

MAYFAIR BXL

Boulevard de Waterloo 25, Brussels/Belgium

Instagram: mayfair.bxl Owner: Mehmet Sandurac Manager: Joevin Ortjens Sales area: approx. 1,500 sqm

Opening: April 2021

Fashion brands for women: among others Forte Forte, Isabel Marant, Roseanna, Valentine Witmeur

Fashion brands for men: among others Aspesi, Closed, De Bonne Facture, Eleventy Milano, Isabel Marant, Majestic Filatures

Fashion accessory brands: among others Autry, Octogony

Interior and accessory brands: AP Collection, Baobab, Chandon, Driade, Eichholtz, FontanaArte, Jonathan Adler, Maison Brémond, Muuto, Oono, Polspotten, Serax, Vetsak

Mayfair in Brussels is a paradise for the curious, featuring fashion, interior, and decorative pieces by exquisite brands.

The new concept store provides a carefully curated product range, as well as exceptionally courteous service that aims to satisfy customers’ every desire.

STEREO BEATS ELECTRO

“We simply did not want another e-vehicle showroom to open next to us,” Florian Ranft and Henrik Soller smile while discussing the launch of Stereo Muc Women. This is why now is the perfect time to open a womenswear store on Munich’s Odeonsplatz.

like trends. We simply buy a certain look, a certain world that is highly independent of fashion trends.”

“Does anyone in Munich launch anything else than an e-vehicle showroom these days,” Florian Ranft asks with a wry smile. To prevent just that, he and Henrik Soller realised a long-cherished dream in autumn 2022. “Stereo Muc Women is an exciting project in many regards. I thoroughly enjoyed the purchasing time spent with Alexandra Arnim, as it represented a completely new world for us. One in which we actually had to go out and do some door-todoor canvassing, simply because we did not yet have a standing in terms of womenswear,” says Ranft. “I experienced this time as very rewarding, especially as the rules of the game are completely different in the women’s segment, and actual fashion plays a much greater role. In menswear, we can almost completely ignore aspects

Alexandra Arnim is responsible for a very different approach at the new womenswear branch. “She basically operates as a fully independent unit. We are very fortunate that she is very entrepreneurial and runs the store as if it were her own,” explains Ranft. “What surprised me most is that we managed to secure exclusivity for so many brands here in Munich.”

Sourced almost exclusively in Paris, Stereo Muc Women opens up a new network for the entrepreneurs. “I consider that to be an enrichment. I also love the fact that our portfolio consists of brands that only really come into their own in a store environment within a coherently assembled assortment. You simply need to see them, touch them, and try them on. These brands are capable of triggering emotions.” Exactly the right mix, which attracted a satisfactory customer frequency barely a few weeks after opening. Ranft: “On the one hand, we welcome the female

companions of our Stereo Muc Men customers. On the other, we seem to be generating plenty of recommendations. I believe our success relies greatly on our product range. The individual and informed type of women we address did not really have a place to go and explore these brands and this look, even in a city like Munich.”

Now, when couples and salespeople rush back and forth between the two shops on a Saturday, Ranft is delighted with the success of the venture. An achievement to which the industry tipped its hat at the opening event: “People were genuinely happy for us.”

STEREO MUC WOMEN

Odeonsplatz 12, Munich/Germany, www. stereo-muc.de

Owners: Florian Ranft and Henrik Soller Opening: October 2022 Sales area: 110 sqm

Brands: 7 For All Mankind, Aspesi, Aniven, Autry, Grown Alchemist, Halfboy, Fairley, Lis Lareida, Love Stories, Maiami, Odeeh, Otto d’Ame, Plan C, Seafarer, White Sand

Stereo Muc Women/Munich

A feminine take on the typical Stereo Muc look: Florian Ranft and Henrik Soller’s new womenswear store strikes a softer note.

A location that is not out of the way, yet not one that you just happen to stroll by: Stereo Muc Women on Odeonsplatz in Munich. The setting with the back facing the Hofgarten is unique.

Winkler’s is celebrating its 25th anniversary. The store’s timeless, affordable fashion attracts loyal fans from Hamburg to Munich.

Winkler’s Real Clothes for Real People/Hückeswagen SOUL IN EVERY DETAIL

“We need to rethink, away from superficiality. We need collections that convey values and yet remain affordable.” Christoph Winkler has been a passionate fashion retailer for 25 years. He discovered his love of fashion during an apprenticeship at a traditional men’s outfitter, and developed a fascination for fabrics, their structures, and their feel, as well as for the perfection of tailoring. “Later, in the sales department of Fire&Ice, I was one of the young rebels who embraced the youthful spirit of the collection and preferred snowboarding to skiing,” Winkler smiles. “It was the era of Chiemsee and Oxbow, when windsurfing stores increasingly evolved into sports fashion shops.” After eleven years in sales, he finally realised his dream of launching his own store.

And what is the situation today, in the year of its 25th anniversary? The concept and individual style have matured. Vintage furniture, including old gym equipment, provides the backdrop for casualwear for men and women, for example by long-standing partner brands such as Cinque, Herrlicher, and Penn & Ink. “I love it when collections evolve constantly,” says Winkler, who has not lost his passion for beautiful materials and excellent fits.

Unknown labels – such as Koon of Italy,

Geisha, and Liepelt – provide an element of surprise. Winkler believes that fashion should be both beautiful and affordable. “I am not a big fan of colour, preferring timeless fashion that lasts through the seasons and is not reduced in sales. I strive to restore appreciation for fashion.” The personal relationship with customers is just as important as partnerships with suppliers. “We really try to fulfil every wish, and that is rewarded with loyalty,” says Winkler. After 25 years, he has learned the lesson not to crank the wheel too far – and not to tolerate that from brands either. “I firmly believe that slow fashion is a form of sustainability.”

WINKLER’S REAL CLOTHES FOR REAL PEOPLE

Islandstrasse 16-18, Hückeswagen/Germany, www.winklers-clothes.de

Opening: 1998 Owner: Christopher Winkler

Sales area: 110 sqm

Brands for women: among others Bomboogie, BSB, Dawn Denim, Ecoalf, Fete Barcelona, Geisha, Herrlicher, La Haine, Liepelt, Penn & Ink, Yellow Label, Zhrill

Brands for men: among others Bomboogie, Cinque, Ecoalf, Gabba, Koon, Le temps des cerises, Uniform, Q1, Xagon

Accessory brands: among others Billybelt, Chabo Bags, Faustmann, Greenbury, Hunterson, Icon, Kamo Gutsu, Made by Esposito, Stetson

Growth at all costs? Christoph Winkler believes this trend is no longer appropriate. As a fashion retailer, he advocates a rethink towards higher appreciation for fashion.

Photos: Winkler’s Real Clothes for Real People

B6 Concept Store/Rosenheim FEMININE MINIMALISM

“If we do something new, we do it properly,” says owner duo Sabrina and Klaus Knierer. Water damage prompted them to rethink Block 6 from scratch. “We took advantage of the core renovation of the old post office to realise our dream store.” The two renovated a former post office branch in the centre of Rosenheim and gave it a new lease of life, implementing an industrial design with plenty of personality. The interior design was developed in collaboration with architect Marcella Breugl and her Munich office Malluvia. She paired brass, wood, and stone to create a contemporary space. The eye-catcher is a large metal block with illuminated lettering placed directly in the entrance area. The bold industrial charm is offset by colour accents such as walls painted in pastel shades and long changing room curtains.

The product range, exclusively geared towards women, ranges from elegant and casual business looks to sporty and fashionable everyday pieces and high-quality basics. “We expanded the range somewhat upwards in terms of price with new brands such

as Dondup, Hannes Röther, Agolde, and Wunderfell. Drykorn, Copenhagen Studios, iheart, Blauer USA, Cambio, and Munthe are still represented. Besides, we offer plenty of things that make life beautiful and bring joy,” the two describe their concept. Small footfall boosters – such as high-quality vases by Skogsberg&Smart, pre-mixed cocktails in attractive gift packaging by Nio Cocktails, kitchen accessories by Kiss my Kitchen, and natural cosmetics by Retterspitz – now complement the brand portfolio. Dresses by Dream Catcher are a new addition for the 2023 summer season.

BLOCK6

Ludwigsplatz 4, Rosenheim/Germany, www.block6-ro.de

Employees: 3 Sales area: 225 sqm

Opening: March 2022

Owners: Sabrina and Klaus Knierer Brands: Agolde, Blauer USA, Cambio, Chillys, Copenhagen Studios, Costoluto, Drykorn, Dondup, Hannes Röther, iheart, JNBY, Munthe, Steamrs, The Gift Label

Lifelong Learning

Sometimes – actually quite often – certain terms begin to annoy me, simply because they are applied in an inflationary and often completely improper manner. I am convinced that I am not alone in this respect. Allow me to illustrate that by looking at some of the topics shaping this issue of style in progress, and ultimately the future of our industry.

The Metaverse

This journey has only just begun, even if one could get the impression, at least within a certain bubble, that we have already arrived. Yet I have a word of caution for all those who are going deaf now. Social media was also in its infancy at some point, and back then hardly anyone could imagine it would become bigger than life.

Gen Z Yes, even the definition is not straightforward. Ultimately, the categorisation of target groups based on age or traditional socio-economic criteria no longer holds up anyway. It’s all about communities. That is the future. And communities simply function completely differently. So, what Gen Z represents is a significant break in communication behaviour, values, media use, work models, etc. This immanently leads to a change in consumer behaviour and a different expectation of the customer journey. Understanding this expectation may not be entirely unimportant.

Transformation

In the past, people simply referred to it as change. And Retail Is Changing was already a completely clichéd headline in trade magazines long before my time. Yet the transformation that our industry is currently experiencing is approaching a completely unprecedented dimension. It’s the end of supply chains… as we know them! It’s the end of seasons… as we know them!

It’s the end of fashion… as we know it! And I feel fine. Just to complete the underlying quote.

Management Stephan Huber

Lifelong Learning

This is one of the most beautiful aspects of my already wonderful job. And I still learn most from other people. My son Jakob, who is now 16 years old, is the one who nudged me into this issue’s extensive and, on many levels, very instructive streetwear chapter. Gen Z >> Metaverse >> Transformation >> Lifelong Learning. Understanding and interpreting these interrelationships is a highly complex task.

Yet that is precisely our job. In fact, it is our mission. We need to filter the constant information overload in terms of relevance. We need to identify the crucial topics early on and prepare them in a way that provides our community, the readers of style in progress, with real added value. Only if you all emerge smarter, i.e. if we have been able to contribute to your individual lifelong learning (!!!), have we done our job properly. I hope we have succeeded once again with this issue. I am rather confident we did!

Yours truly, Stephan Huber stephan@style-in-progress.com