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S u s ta i n + A b i l i t y
THE GREAT OPPORTUNITY
Why the fact that there is no alternative to correcting the fashion industry’s inherent flaws could turn out to be a unique stroke of luck. An opinion piece by Stephan Huber.
O
ne of the most astonishing accusations that Greta Thunberg has been showered with during the ongoing battle of cultures is the indignation that she is merely part of a large-scale PR campaign. You don’t say! It goes without saying that this girl, who seems to confuse so many, is the face of a campaign. In view of her impact, I might even call it the best campaign I have ever witnessed. Within no more than a year, she has transformed from a pig-tailed lone warrior with a cardboard sign in front of the Swedish parliament, into an untouchable symbolic figurehead of a global (youth) movement with ever-increasing socio-political influence. This is a truly astonishing achievement, even in the age of social media potentiation. The Prerogative of Youth Yes, she enjoys the backing of a well-organised team. Yes, it is very likely that someone in the background is writing her speeches. Someone who obviously understands damn well how to push the right buttons. So what? Given the countless lobbyists sent into the battle for the sovereignty of interpretation within our so easily influenced attention economy by the “opposing side”, who are equipped with breath-taking budgets from – more often than not – quite dubious sources, it was high time to answer with a hard-nosed, professional narrative. It’s the prerogative of youth to make radical social demands and develop utopias. Nobody is forced to comply with these demands – in full or in part. I, for one, sympathise. However, I see some things quite differently. Above all, I am convinced that a solution can only be found through the power of innovation within a healthy market economy. Nevertheless, Thunberg’s success in creating more awareness for the question of how we should manage our natural resources within a few months, than politics and the media had done in a decade, is a great achievement. She has opened
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style in progress
our eyes to the question of how we can develop a different, less careless, and ultimately more rewarding consumer behaviour. The fact that many adults react to her efforts with utterly incomprehensible verbal attacks, is nothing short of shocking. It demonstrates the complete disinhibition that has crept into the public political discourse. Part of the Problem The question of why Thunberg polarises so much is exciting, because the answer inevitably leads to taking a hard look at oneself. In recent months, I have attended many debates and discussions in which I explained why the fashion industry is among the top three most polluting industries by giving a very obvious example. Approximately 77 million unused items of clothing are hanging and lying in Austria’s wardrobes. Let’s say the fluctuation margin is 10 percent. We’re talking about a country with around 8 million inhabitants. The almost incredulous amazement is followed by extrapolation. What about Germany, or even the EU? Above all, I have to admit that I am part of the problem. The central problem of the fashion industry is overproduction coupled with overconsumption. An almost incalculable quantity of products doesn’t even find its way into the wardrobes. It is estimated that up to 30 percent of all produced items head straight into the bin. Fashion has degenerated into a disposable article that can be discarded carelessly, just like the paper one wraps a sandwich in. This is not only ecological madness, but also economic insanity. This is THE central flaw of our industry. Part of the Solution Correcting this flaw is a daunting challenge. It is, however, also a great opportunity – and this should be the focal point of every attempt. The fashion industry, with its undiminished, communicative external impact, can become a role model and an integral part of the solution by adopting new technologies and business models, as well as embracing innovation and genuine entrepreneurship at all levels. This includes raw materials that can be recycled to an ever greater extent, increasingly precisely controlled production based on intelligent data management, and hybrid points of sale at which consumers can finally expect real substance. This is where the retail trade has a decisive role to play. In an undoubtedly changing market reality, consumers will demand credibility and orientation. And who better to act as a mediator and narrator than a service-oriented, well-informed specialist retailer whose expertise has earned the trust of customers? Can this change happen overnight? Of course not. And will things change 100 percent? Of course not. However, a great deal can and will be achieved. There’ll still be sufficient leeway for hedonism, fun, and unreasonableness. There’ll also be much less leeway for stupidity.
