WHAT'S THE STORY
S u s ta i n + A b i l i t y – S a lvat i o n A r m y
GREEN OR GREENWASHED? The fashion industry has finally discovered sustainability. It goes without saying that not everything that glitters green is actually green. Environmentally and socially compatible production throughout the entire value chain is a bottomless pit. This becomes apparent very quickly once one delves into the topic. style in progress asked renowned experts to put popular sustainability myths to the check and to make concrete proposals for action. Text: Petrina Engelke, Martina Müllner-Seybold, Kay Alexander Plonka, Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Interviewees
“HALF THE FASHION CUSTOMERS ARE ON THEIR WAY TO SUSTAINABILITY” Many retailers claim that customers don’t care about sustainability. What does your market research say? Jens Cornelsen, Managing Director of Facit Research: The significance of sustainability, especially in the context of aspects relevant to buying, has been on the rise for many years. It’s actually the third most important of ten factors now. 10 to 15 percent of all fashion buyers pay very close attention to ecological and social sustainability. And in our experience, more than half are - more or less - on their way to sustainable buying and consumption. The number of consumers who actively research sustainability on the Internet is equally impressive. Why do so few people turn to fashion retailers for advice? Because the topic of sustainability has simply not fully trickled down to regional retailers yet. Such local retailers still adhere to old sales rules and “kneejerk” principles. The focus is still too often on short-term sales, discount campaigns, and 40 percent price cuts. Last but not least, the staff is, generally speaking, not really “into” the subject yet. Before I, as a customer, ask a shop employee who has no idea about this topic or subjectively intervenes in favour of a certain brand, I’d rather simply ask the “neutral Internet”. 078
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Jens Cornelsen is the Managing Director of Facit Research. The market research institute has published a large study on the topic of sustainable consumption.
Your sustainability index takes three factors into account. In your experience, which one is subject to the most greenwashing? We believe that ecological sustainability is most affected by greenwashing. This aspect is currently the most important focus of customer attention and also enjoys the highest priority in public reporting. That greenwashing is the wrong strategy in times of complete transparency via the Internet is also demonstrated impressively by our study results. Two-thirds of consumers say that they would most definitely turn their backs on a company that merely pretends to be sustainable.
