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hen a new surfer gets that feeling of stoke for the very first time, they most likely end up claiming a certain beach as their favorite spot and thus become a local. Whether or not they are accepted at that new spot is based on how they surf. To survive in the crowded line-up, you have to give back. Some surfers give back by being nice, accepting, and even helpful, while other surfers do it by being unaccepting, abrasive, or just downright mean. How a new surfer deals with that dynamic will determine if they stay a local at that spot, move to another spot, or
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is a way for surfers to give back to the surfing community by offering them an outlet to express who they are, what they do, and their opinions about surfing. This paper is not about those professional surfers whose names appear everytime surfing is brought up in the media, but it is
about the REAL LOCALS OF THE OC that make surfing as a pastime so interesting. This is not an invitation for everyone to go out and get a surfboard just because we showcase a bunch of every-day, average Joe locals. You will find that if the ocean doesn’t make you humble then some of the LOCALS will. This is just about giving back to surfing by sharing some knowledge about the real people who are enjoying life to its fullest.
Grom of the month
Lauren
Up and coming 6-year-old grom Michael Killeen AKA “Mymo” ripping overhead Mexico.
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W A N T "Got an opinion about the inlet the county is determined to dig at Seapoint? That's right, starting this fall, Bolsa Chica is scheduled for a nip and tuck. We'd like to hear your views.
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ey intrepid readers. We want to hear about your (gasp!) summer vacation! Okay, we're only interested if you went surfing somewhere cool or have a very interesting summer story about your local surf spot. Did you catch some of those 10-foot faces on Aug. 18? It was going off just about everywhere. We've heard stories about great surf all along the OC. Tell us about your best rides. Share the pain of your WWF smack down wipeout. Got great artistic skills? We would love to publish your stories, poems, or artwork. E-mail us your stories, fiction, poems, interviews of your favorite local surfer, or request on how to get your artwork into OurWave. The e-mail address to send work to is:
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just quit altogether. Whether surfers like it or not, they cannot stop new surfers from trying to set their roots. It may be a trendy fad now, but the wild dynamic of surfing out in a crowded line up will weed out those who don't belong if they cannot find a way to give back to the surfing community.
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mark.designs@verizon.net. We'll try to get your work into future editions of Our Wave. Keep it to a couple of short paragraphs. And don’t forget to include your name, age, phone number so we can track you down if we have questions. You can find the swell model below @
http://cdip.ucsd.edu/models/lbh.gif
Local surfer’s opinions, biographies, or fictional writings
Buying Time Story by Barbara Fryer
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lmost an hour ago, when Shannon Teele dropped her quarters into the meter and set up her beach chair in the purchased space, she had had her choice of at least a half dozen parking spots on Main Street. Even now, with nine minutes still left, the space to the left was vacant. And from where she sat, she could see the top of a multistory parking facility a block away. So she really didn’t understand why the hairy guy with the black socks and tennis shoes kept glaring at her from the front door of his Huntington Beach surfing shop. Let him stare, she thought, looking away from him just in time to see the computerized meter eat another minute. An eight now registered. Strange how when you watched time it sat still like a student locked into submission by the eye of a teacher. But the minute you looked elsewhere, it moved its sneaking fist forward. She was determined to stare down every minute, especially now, but from the corner of her eye, she saw that Black Socks had moved to the front of his store where he tapped his right foot steady as a pulse. A swirl of beachgoers parted to pass him and then reassembled immediately without a gap in their conversation. “Lady,” he yelled in broken English, “that space for customers.” A flock of squawking seagulls passed high over his store, and they gave her an idea. She would try the same tactic she used on the beach when she didn’t want to scare the birds. (story continued on page #6)
HB Pier 5 miles - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - PCH - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - Seal Beach Pier 3 miles
Mention this ad between 8am and 9am and get a Dollar off any breakfast bur rito, ever yday OurWave premiere edition 2004
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