Our Wave Newspaper issue #8 March and April 2006 by Mark Lugenbuehl

V O L . 3 -

I S S U E

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M A R C H / 2 0 0 6

LOCAL SURFERS

REWARDED WITH EPIC SURF FOR TWO SOLID MONTHS!

STOKED photo by Eddy Raposa originally run in Our Wave’s last issue

First I’d like to say how stoked I am on your newspaper. Now that I have found my picture in it, I love it even more. It is refreshing to see local surf spots and local surfers, as opposed to looking at the same old shots of Slater or Irons getting tubed at Pipeline.

photo by Eddy Raposa

Reduce, Reuse, and Recycle. Cliff Kjoss fishing on Southside.

Anyway back to my pic, this is at south side Seal about 25 feet from the pier. The session was on March 10th. This was one of the biggest NW swells of the year. I was surfing North side with Cliff Kjoss, an old lifeguard friend, and the tide just started dropping (it had been high all morning). We decided to paddle over to South side knowing that it was just a

matter of time before those heavy South side Seal barrels started showing up. At that time there was only one other guy out on south side and he was on a sponge. Within 10 minutes we each had 2 or 3 great waves and at least 1 near broken board. By the end of the session there was a hundred guys out, but everyone was getting plenty of waves hooting and hollering for each other. The vibe was great and everybody was stoked. Aloha- Nathan Irby

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A local surfer’s acount of life on a research vessle

By Jody Lemmon

The Oceanographic Research Vessel Alguita hails from the homeport of Alamitos Bay CA. Captain Charles Moore is the ship’s owner operator and is a native of Long Beach. The Alguita plays an integral role as an oceanic research vessel for the Algalita Marine Research Foundation. Captain Moore has gathered an impressive reputation as a marine conservationist, while traveling the world’s oceans. The Alguita was originally constructed in Tasmania and was designed specifically as a world cruising research vessel. She is a fifty-foot aluminum catamaran carrying an impressive array of technology.

covers a majority of the off shore blue water in the Pacific Ocean. A series of rotating water currents have been accumulating man made debris in the region, for decades. This little explored area of the ocean soon became a fixation for Captain Moore, spawning many return voyages.

Throughout history trans Pacific sailors have avoided sailing deep inside high-pressure systems, like the North Pacific Gyre. These weather systems range in size from ocean to ocean, but they all share a common characteristic of having very light winds, near their centers. In the year 2000, on a return voyage from Hawaii, Captain Moore utilized the fuel capacMore than five years ago Captain Moore traveled ity of the Alguita and motored across the North Paacross an area in the middle of the Pacific Ocean cific high-pressure system, in order to make up some called the North Pacific Gyre. This high-pressure lost time. What he discovered was the presence weather system, which is roughly the size of Africa, Continued on page 7

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Dear Our Wave - Here’s a pic of my son, Daniel (aka Danny Boy) at age six at Huntington riding his first wave! He’s now a surf addict like his dad and older sister, Danique. He’s now is riding a much shorter board at age 9. Danique is 11 and can charge those waves with the best of them. I thought I would share these with you and maybe even post on the next issue of our wave. ALOHA! Danny Garcia

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OurWave Vol.3- Issue# 1- Mar/2006-Apr/2006

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Se al Be ac h

photo by Eddy Raposa

The guy on the platform had the best seat in the house as a crew of tow-in surfers had their way with this rare big wave spot during the “Big Wednesday” swell.

Taylor Evans

uring the swell in late December, Seal Beach garnered quite a bit of attention. The local news sent out reporters, the national media took notice, helicopters captured the action from above and the coconut underground, that vast network of word of mouth communication, has seldom been so abuzz. Dozens of cell phone wielding surfers paced the sand, eating through their peak minutes with reports of the escalating swell conditions.

I also knew that, during that same swell, Evans had tow in surfed the break I’ve heard referred to as Esters, a wave that breaks about 3/4 of a mile out from Seal Beach pier, word of it circulating about in the way that newly explored and rarely ridden spots in more exotic locales elicit.

When I bring it up with Evans, he corrects me; the offshore island is called Esters, the break itself doesn’t have a name. He does, however, confirm my suspicion that it breaks rarely and needs a speNo doubt that the north side of Seal Beach Pier was cific swell. “It needs to be west and it needs to be sizeable that early morning on Dec.21, the day the huge.” Both conditions were optimal that Wednesswell peaked. Easily double overhead and pitch- day before Christmas and Evans recounts the day ing wildly, it provided ample challenge for those for me: willing to paddle out. But Southside is where the I knew waves were coming. I’d checked the rereal action was taking place. With waves break- ports, the weather, the buoys… I knew it would ing from the oil derrick to Cloudbreak, with rogue be closing out in a lot of places, but the big wave waves breaking on their own impetus everywhere spots had potential, Lunada, Todos, the offshore in between, and giant reforms pounding the shore- islands, maybe here…. I’d seen it break before, (a line, the conditions were wild, shifty, and unpre- few years ago), it was this weird winter day while dictable. I was living at my dad’s (on Ocean Ave.) it wasn’t Spectators lined the shore, easily outnumbering the bodies actually in the water 20 to 1. The bravado on the beach was flagrant. A few “Man, I could’ve made that,” and “If it weren’t for my knee/back/ shoulder/pinkie finger/whatever injury, I’d totally be out there,” comments were being thrown about. But the truth is, it was disconcertedly big and there were few takers. Of the few brave enough, talented enough, adrenaline driven enough to paddle out during a big Southside swell, one surfer who consistently stands out is Taylor Evans. Taylor, 24, a progressive and talented surfer, has honed his skills surfing breaks all over the world, but insists that Southside remains one of his favorite places to surf.

Evans, a firefighter for the City of Santa Ana, performing heroics at sea.

that big in the morning, probably waist high, and by the evening it was huge, it was Cloudbreaking out in front of the house. I remember going out and catching a couple of waves and then I came in and I was standing on the patio and watching the waves break out there; it broke on the other side of the oil rig and scraped the bottom of it, and then broke through the reef that’s there and crumbled into the channel, so ever since then, I’ve kind of had a fascination about trying to get it.

With this swell, Wednesday December 21, 2005, to be exact, Evan’s fascination turned into reality. Everything just worked out, I had the ski, my buddy Brett (Schwartz) and I had used a ski a couple times prior. My buddy Travis (Potter) also went Not being able to successfully master the waves of out with us, he’d done it (tow in) in Indo a couple Southside myself and generally spending too much times. We used regular boards. It was all kind of time lamenting my late drops and subsequent rinse experimental, you know. (Laughing) through the inside, I was hoping to glean some tips As for the secret of surfing Southside, familiarity from Evans. He agreed to meet me and talk surfing. may be the key. Evans grew up surfing Southside,

first picking up a board around the age of 8 and log- I’m feeling encouraged. I may even try surfing ging many Southside hours since. When I mention Southside again. my inability to master Southside and my frequent Interview by Nina Vafaie ill-timed take offs resulting in some spectacular Photographs by Eddy Raposa wipeouts, Evans doesn’t laugh, he responds with the same self-depreciating manner he’s displayed throughout our interview, “You surf enough, you get to a certain place where you’re just comfortable with it.”

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OurWave Vol.3- Issue# 1- Mar/2006-Apr/2006

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OurWave Vol.3- Issue# 1- Mar/2006-Apr/2006

When and Where To Go

w w w. o u r w a v e n e w s p a p e r. c o m Your car can’t make it to the beach?

Sean Collins reveals the secrets for knowing when and where to go in his new book, Surfline’s California Surf Guide - Secrets To Finding The Best Waves.

The book covers most all of the popular spots from the Oregon to Mexican borders. These are not secret spots by any means even though the details of their exact locations and how to get to them are left fairly ambiguous. What Sean does do though, is show you how to use features from the premium services of Surfline’s LOLA swell models. This information, as even he has mentioned, does exist for free if you know where to look, but it is the ease of use that makes the swell model worthwhile. The book gives good descriptions of details like the bottom bathymetry, favorable swell directions, crowd factors, local factors, as well as pollution and other hazards to deal with. The first section of the book, “Surfology 101: What

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from the South. These illustrations throughout the book are real handy for finding where to go when you come across a swell that isn’t working at your favorite spot. If you have the time Every Surfer Should Know About The Waves,” is a must read for understanding how the waves break to travel, just find out what the swell angle/periods the way they do at any beach. It will give you a are and check the book for choices that correspond real understanding of why a wind or ground swell with what you want. With only the two angles ilbreaks differently than a ground swell coming from lustrated for you to guess from, it may seem that the the same direction, or how it is that places like book is just a great selling point for the real-time Seal Beach can pick up a swell from an angle that information that LOLA can give you, but this book would seem to be blocked/shadowed by the Palos offers so much more. Verdes Peninsula if you were just to look at a map Sean’s book also does the good deed of reminding without any of the knowledge eloquently written us that the ocean is there for all of us, but under in this book. This information is well written and the circumstances of our crowded society, we must easily understood. This book can be a life saver for approach any given surf spot with some respect for all those kooks out there that love to talk like they the locals that surf there, the safety of yourself, as know what, how, and why the surf is breaking the well as the safety of others. In the last section, apway it does at their local beach. propriately named, “Bill Of Rights And Lefts - SurfThe illustrations of the swell models showing the ing Etiquette,” that he co-wrote with surfing icon, swells reaction relative to the surf spots on the Nick Carroll, they give a thorough description of maps can give you a pretty good idea which spot how a surfer should act in any given line-up. They will be the place to go when you hear a swell is do a great job of letting you know that these rules coming from a certain direction. The book gives apply differently at different spots and they usually you 4 screen grabs of the same section of a map follow the pattern of “Aggressive wave-aggressive listing a number of surf spots: Two maps showing crowd, Mellow wave-mellow crowd.” The trick, the best average angle from the North/West (one as they note, “You need to be honest with yourself map showing a long period swell and another a about your ability and your intentions, and to recshort period,) plus two maps with the same corre- ognize that some surf zones are not suited for comsponding swell periods from the best average angle petitive skills-oriented behavior.” The section goes

on to list the rules of etiquette like, “Don’t drop in or snake your fellow surfer,” and “When paddling out to or within a break, it’s your responsibility to stay out of the way of riders on waves,” etc.... Each rule gives many scenarios and solutions for any beginner (and some of those who have forgotten) a better understanding on what they should do in any of those situations that they will most definitely end up in while surfing in a crowd.

Sean held a book signing at Harbour Surfshop in January in which he also answered questions. After listening to Sean talk about his dedication to understanding the ocean, I realized what a benefit his sharing of knowledge has given the surfing community. The tools and information that he offers us surfers will only help ease the pain of the ever-increasing crowd factor and has lead surfing into a new age of extreme surfing by giving hard core surfers the information they need to know when and where to go. By Mark Lugenbuehl photo by Grace Malay

photos by Eddy Raposa

Tyler Collins , son of Sean Collins, showing his local knowledge.

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OurWave Vol.3- Issue# 1- Mar/2006-Apr/2006

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Reduce, Reuse, and Recycle.

Continued from page 1 of an unnatural substance that had become a predominant characteristic throughout the Northern Pacific’s water column. The first plastics produced are still present today. Plastic does not biodegrade. It goes through a lengthy process of photo degradation. As plastic is exposed to solar rays it becomes brittle. Ocean waves slowly break down the brittle synthetics into

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marily used to catch the smaller pieces and fragments of plastic, that floated by regularly. Fishing buoys from the far away continent of Asia were a common find. Using a boat hook or common fishing gaff became the tool of choice for the larger chunks of floating plastic debris.

Once a crewmember would site and direct the helmsmen close to a floating apparition, my job came into play. I would dive over the side and shoot the diversity of life inhabiting the plastic object. Tiny schools of fish, crustaceans and mollusks were commonly found around or on the plastic object. These creatures have very few predators causing them to pay little heed to my camera or myself. Diving in the open ocean evokes a barrage of thoughts in ones mind. As I focused my camera on a variety of drifting plastics, ranging from hundreds of feet of netting to thumbnail sized fragments, the eerie feeling of the deep was a constant.

Night diving was a thrill on many levels. During the night deep sea creatures can be found near or on the surface feeding. The multitude of pelagic sea jellies we encountered was astounding. These filter feeding creatures indiscriminately swallow plastic particles along with their primary food source, zooplankton. In some areas the amount of plastic particles in the water column out weighed the zooplankton many times over. Pelagic Sea jellies are primarily seen at night, in the middle of the ocean. These incredible creatures are spectacular for any diver to witness. During the night many of the creatures displayed colors ranging across the rainbow. Blinking, moving lights were visible through the transparent tissue of the sea jellies, appearing psychedelic against the pitch-black backdrop of the abyss.

As the days turned into weeks the decks of the Alguita began to change form. Crates that were once filled with an abundance of organic produce were now being replaced with a multitude of synthetic debris. Boxes of sample jars smaller and smaller pieces. The tragic reality is filled with plastic confetti fragments and pelagic that the North Pacific Gyre has become a “Garbage sea creatures lined the aft deck. My visions of a Patch” filled with tiny particles of plastic. These pristine ocean were being destroyed right before tiny particles appear as confetti in some regions my eyes. and are believed to be present throughout the entire I have been surfing and diving off of the Califorwater column. nia coast, all of my life. Over the years I have, alThis summer I was contacted by Captain Moore most, become desensitized to all of the pollution and offered the chance to accompany him and his at my local beaches. Before I traveled to the Gyre crew into the North Pacific Gyre. The prospec- I would sometimes ponder what the deep open tive plan included filming a documentary, where ocean was like. I always pictured crystal clear blue I would fill the role as the underwater videogra- water with hundreds of feet of visibility. An area so pher. Collecting, documenting and quantifying the remote and pristine that it would be unspoiled by various organisms and synthetics we encountered man. Plastic, an invention that has permeated evwould be our main objective. ery aspect of our lives, has managed to achieve the The four-crew members I would be sharing close unimaginable. Plastic has become the most promiquarters with for three weeks included some im- nent characteristic present in the open ocean. pressive individuals. Marcus Eriksen Ph.D. is an Plastics share a bond with pollutants. Chemicals, expert in science education. He commonly gives which were commonly used for agriculture, have consultations to schools, museums and zoos to enhance their science programs. Dr. Eriksen filled the Continued on next page role aboard as a research assistant and planned on collecting plastic samples to use as a “hands on” teaching aid for California school children. Austin Brown the co-captain on board has experienced previous expeditions through the North Pacific Gyre. His knowledge of the ocean is an asset worthy of mention. Austin is the boat manager for the Orange County Coast Keepers environmental organization and rarely misses a voyage aboard the Alguita. The biologist aboard was Laurie Harvey. She focuses on the study of nesting seabirds. Laurie preserved many of the samples we collected in the gyre and identified a multitude of marine birds we encountered. The documentary producer aboard was Ian Connacher. He worked camera 1 and hails from Canada. Ian is a segment producer for Discovery Canada and runs his own film company, Cryptic Month Productions. His company focuses on environmental issues allowing Ian to travel to the far reaches of the globe. Plastic as far as the eye can see. Traveling up to seven hundred miles off of the coast of the Oregon/California border revealed many incredible finds. Catching a North Westerly we sailed for nearly a week to finally cross the wind boundary line into the gyre. Traveling through the gyre was a strange phenomenon. The process of spotting for floating or partly submerged debris evolved many times over the weeks of collecting. We could be found at the top of the mast scanning the horizon for large drift nets or brightly colored rope boluses. Boluses are a strange phenomenon consisting of a multitude of monofilament fishing line and plastic rope, which is all tangled together into a nasty rats nest. Scoop nets were pri-

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OurWave Vol.3- Issue# 1- Mar/2006-Apr/2006

w w w. o u r w a v e n e w s p a p e r. c o m Want to surf longer? Get into a good Continued from previous page also made their way into the North Pacific Gyre. Synthetics have been found to effectively soak up these toxic chemicals like sponges. Plastic floating in the open ocean has been found to possess a much higher concentration of chemicals than that of the ambient seawater. Many of the sea jellies we encountered possessed visible plastic fragments, which were imbedded in their tissue. Sea jellies are commonly preyed upon by sea squids, which in turn are consumed by fish. The toxins coating the plastic can and do pass through the food chain multiplying and accumulating, eventually reaching game fish. The fatty flesh of many of the top predators of the ocean can carry high levels of toxins in their bodies. Humans, being at the top of the food chain, are the most susceptible to bioaccumulation.

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Danny Nicholes grabbing one of the biggest stand-up shacks of the year at Southside.

When confronted with these facts it is easy to give into a feeling of hopelessness. We think back to all of the things we could have or should have done to at least minimize the amount of plastic being discarded over the years. Use once and throw away is an all too common practice that people across the world are guilty of committing. Is recycling the answer? Every piece of plastic made from recycle plastic has the same sponge like property as nonrecycled plastic. A large percentage of raw plastic is still being used in the process of producing recycled plastic. The cycle continues and leads us to very uncomfortable questions.

Captain Moore and the Algalita Foundation focus their energy on the education of the public and the preservation of the marine environment. Public awareness of the problems occurring in the marine environment is only the beginning. Humans have an average life span that parallels a century. Quality of life and the preservation of our environment are issues that affect our own lives as well as the generations to come. The answer to this complex problem is not an easy one to reach. The massive expanse of the ocean is no longer impenetrable. The oceans are filling up with trash and soon we will have a synthetic sea choked with floating plastic debris. Reduce, Reuse, and Recycle.

photos by Eddy Raposa

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OurWave Vol.3- Issue# 1- Mar/2006-Apr/2006

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Karen hopes that this contest will allow her to “continue on and leave my amateur status behind and officially become a Pro”. Karen is currently sponsored by T & C Surfboards and Australian company Ocean & Earth. If you see Karen down at the HB Pier, please paddle over and wish her luck.

rito ur

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Huntington Beach, California - Local surfer Karen Helm has been busy training mentally and physically for her trip to Hawaii at the end of February. This isn’t any normal surf trip; this is Karen’s one shot to realize her dreams of becoming a pro surfer. Karen has qualified to surf in the 2ndAnnual Women’s Pipeline Championship on the North Shore of O’ahu. The contest has been upgraded to a one star ASP event, and promises to be bigger and better than last year. The contest will be held sometime between March 1st and March 14th,

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Karen got a late start to the world of competitive surfing, but her drive and athleticism has helped her master the sport over the last 4 years. She is no stranger to big wave riding. Karen has spent the last three years living on the North Shore of Oah’u charging big waves on a daily basis. Karen said, “My Grandfather was a Big Wave Bodysurfer who used to push me into waves at age 5. I picked up surfing later where I fell in love so much with it that I moved to Hawaii. I coached and surfed everyday for 3 years where my knowledge of the ocean and lack of fear helped me to progress quickly”.

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Karen Helm

depending on the wave conditions. The Pipeline contest is open only to the top female extreme surfers in the world, and Karen is definitely one of them.

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OurWave Vol.3- Issue# 1- Mar/2006-Apr/2006

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Surfers Art JR has been a surfer for over twenty years. Starting in Half Moon Bay, and in college, majoring in Art, he did a surf comic for the local Half Moon Bay paper. He loved doing it. JR finished his Bachelor of Fine Arts degree at CSULB, graduating with honors, with a degree in illustration and worked for a couple of ad agencies where he rose to the level of assistant art director.

featured artist: “They were grooming me to take over for the soon to retire art director, but I realized that I was working more and more as a manager, and less and less as an artist. I knew that higher pay, and an increasingly comfortable “comfort zone” would kill my dream of working as a true creative, so I quit and went freelance as an illustrator/designer eight years ago.” JR has been pursuing his dream of being a syndicated cartoonist on and off during that

JR Johnson

period. Most of his work now is as an editorial illustrator, (mostly comic illustrations, visit jrillustration.com), and as a designer. He is the illustrator for RV journal, where his comics are used in every issue, and writes a column for the magazine called, “JR’s Journeys”. He has also written and illustrated his first children’s book, (with two others underway), and will be sending it out to publishers early this year.

“DO IT,” when he talked about quitting the steady job. They have a teenage daughter who is attending The Orange County School of Art as a visual artist and considering modeling, and they have an obedient and shiny lab mix dog that helps them remember the important stuff He has a beautiful and supportive wife who said, in life.

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OurWave Vol.3- Issue# 1- Mar/2006-Apr/2006

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photos by Eddy Raposa

Richard Payne gets barreled when there are no waves to be barreled on, but you can bet that if it’s good, he’s going to be the MAN!

photos by Eddy Raposa

Micah Byrne

photos by Eddy Raposa

Like the Ground Hog, “The Shadow”, comes in and out of his holes to check how much longer the winter will last.

Ryan Simmons Look for the low-down on “The Dog” in an up and coming issue of Our Wave newspaper.

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OurWave Vol.3- Issue# 1- Mar/2006-Apr/2006

BEST SEAT

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Finally, a surf shop in North HB

Quiet no more, as I pull into the parking lot, a flood of people begin to arrive. After locating the charter boat, I board at 7:30. First heat starts at 8:00AM. The waves were huge, the sun was out and the winds were minimal...a photogs dream sesh! Hope you enjoy the shots, I had a blast taking them. I highly advise all to see this event live, you just don’t understand the power of a 40-50ft wave until you see, hear and feel it in person! Can’t wait for next year! A few of my shots have been published on w w w. m a v e r i c k s s u r f . c o m . Story and photos by Brandy Sullivan I have a website in the works, where you will uper stoked upon my return, be able to see more of my work, I called Mark, the editor for coming soon www.sunchildsurfshots.com. Our Wave, to see if he’d be For now feel free to drop me a line at interested in running a story guitaraccess@yahoo.com about my trip to Mavericks. He obliged once again. I was lucky enough to be given the opportunity to photograph Mavericks from a boat. As a budding surf photographer, this was an experience of a life time. You might be thinking, how? How did I manage to get my foot in the door as a “nobody?” Well, a little prying and name dropping did the trick.

IN THE HOUSE

Gear up at Luahuna surf shop

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Rainbowwave : Beauty and power combined!

I actually sent in a volunteer application, just to help with event setup and operations. On the application I mentioned that I had experience as a surf photographer and, on occasion, wrote for a local surf paper “Our Wave.” I was contacted shortly by some folks up at Mavericks. They asked about my photography experience, checked out some of my work, and asked if I’d rather take photos than direct traffic. After deliberating about this for hours, I chose to shoot. Hard choice, I know.

For the next three weeks I waited, bags and camera packed, ready for the call. I had 24 hours to get up to Half Moon Bay. When I received the notice, “It’s ON!” on Feb 6th, I grabbed my bags, threw them in my rental car and headed north. At the same time, 24 of the world’s best big wave surfers and reportedly 50,000 spectators were doing the same, departing from locations around the world, all to converge on this quiet little, Nor Cal beach town, home to the world renowned big wave surf spot known as Mav’s.

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OurWave Vol.3- Issue# 1- Mar/2006-Apr/2006

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Did you find yourself or your buddy in this paper listed as unidentified?

CHICK HUNTER AND THE

We’ll run it again with the name. Go to w w w. o u r w a v e n e w s p a p e r. c o m photo by Eddy Raposa

LOST REEF Fictional

Story by Ian D. Toob •••••••••••>

Painting by JR Johnson

is Chick’s nephew and a total moron. Nevik is eigh- “That’s cool but what is the catch? I don’t really swear that’s what he said.” teen years old and his life consists of skateboard- know your Uncle. Why would he do that for me?” “ Wait a minute, Nevik. Did you say we? ing and doing his favorite surf move on any wave “Dude, he really digs your name. He says that you he catches. When you think of a surfer around his and him are alike in an uncommon way. He said “ Yeah he said that you are supposed to bring me and Knat down too.” age, you would imagine his favorite surf move be- that you both were given names to live up to.” ing a slash cutback, or maybe getting air, but no, Knat was Nivek’s best friend, his mentor in every Nevik has perfected the snake. Whether you are a “Hey I’m stoked, where am I supposed to meet sense of the word. Going south with the likes of long boarder, short boarder, sponger, or even a butt him at?” Nevik and Knat would not gain me membership in surfer it makes no difference. If you have a nice “ We’re supposed to meet him this coming week- the Mensa society, but catching a secret spot with a left and Nevik is sitting inside you are soon to have end. He says that there is a massive swell that is surf legend, why not? a visitor. Nevik often shouts out “ party wave” as going to hit the reef and send us all to Nirvana. I he drops down the Bolsa Chica unidentified enjoying the benefits of the Bolsa Chica Wet Land Restoration Ring!! Ring!! What the hell, the phone is ringing. I face. I believe he look up check, the time 11:52 p.m., grab the phone does this in hopes photo by Eddy Raposa and say “hey.” of drowning out “Dude, its Nevik, I got some bitchin news, you are the assorted curses that he accumugoing to be sooo stoked.” lates by completNevik it’s frigging almost midnight.!! How did you ing his move. get my phone number?” “What’s up, “Dude you gave it to me when I was sitting up your Nevik?” meeting with Uncle Chick, you told me to call any“Uncle Chick time.” called and he Well, what can I say, it was right (probably for the wants you to meet first time). I had given him the phone number and him down in Baja. even pretended like I liked him when I was work- He wants to take ing on the exclusive Chick Hunter interview. Chick you to a secret is a surf icon, a legend that will live on in surf films spot. He called it and outrageous stories long after he is gone. Nevik the Lost Reef.” s I popped up and angled down its face the wave started feathering at the top. I hit the bottom and cranked a hard turn finishing off the turn about 1/3 of the way up the face. I tucked and the wave throw out, sending streaks of silver over my head. I stuck my hand into its face and the wave drew me in as the silver became green with only a patch of a blue cylinder showing ahead. All of a sudden, she was there, the morning sand jogger with her hard body, and she was smiling at me..

Seal Beach unidentified gets a sweet barrel then rips a mean cutback. photos by Eddy Raposa

Go to Page 15 for advertising Info.

OurWave Vol.3- Issue# 1- Mar/2006-Apr/2006

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Can’t afford a new foam board?

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photo by Eddy Raposa

Page #1 3

photos by Eddy Raposa

“ Listen Nivek, it’s not like I don’t believe you on Chick said that he and Raj had surfed the spot evanything, but why don’t you have your Uncle call ery time a big south pulled through. Chick said that me to confirm all this.” it was the best wave he had ever ridden, better than It was the next evening when my phone rang again anything, anywhere. and I instantly recognized the voice of Chick Hunter.

He explained that he was worried about his nephew. He wanted to spend some time with him and his friend to see what kind of person he was and check out this kid Knat, who Nivek raved about. He did not trust Nivek to go down south without a chaperone and that was where I fit in. He explained to me that he had access to an amazing secret reef break down south of the border. It was located on a private island off the coast, which was owned by his long time friend Raj (he made a point of spelling it for me) Hadmar. Raj had discovered the reef in 1987 after he had married his beautiful Mexican wife. Estrella’s family had owned the island, along with a 500,000 acre grant on the mainland, since having it granted to them by the King of Spain sometime in the 1700s.

The catch was that I could write about the island, but I would have to get Nivek and Knat down to Ensenada where Raj and Chick would meet us and fly us blindfolded to the island. No pictures were allowed (sorry Eddy) and no cell phones, no global positioning systems, no computers; in fact the only thing I would be allowed to bring was surfboards, wax, and clothes. He wanted me to leave tomorrow afternoon. I instantly agreed to these terms and started packing.

I picked up Nivek at his home where he lived with his Mother (Chick’s sister-in-law). As I got out of my car, I spotted a kid about 10 years old rushing away from the front porch with a terrified look on his face. I knocked on the door and Nivek answered. I asked him about the kid and he said that the kid had knocked on the door asking for donations to keep him out of gangs and off drugs. Nivek had replied that he was in a gang and used drugs. Raj was an element man as Chick explained. He I knew then that the trip to Ensenada was going to was into water (surfed, doved, fished, sailed), air be a challenge. (pilot owner of a small plane), earth (desert rat mountain climber, not a rock climber) and had the We were to pick up Knat in front of the park off fire (desire to experience life). Once he had heard Lake street. Sure enough he was sitting at the curb about the island he picked a calm day to sail out to with his board, duffel bag and a scowl on his face. explore the island. Estrella had said that her family Knat had numerous face piercing accented by three only used the island as a vacation spot a few times cone like piercings, one above each eyebrow and that she could remember. There was a small house the third under his lip. They formed a triangle and on the island and a pretty good size bay on the with his large hoop earrings he looked like a diasouthwest side where they could dock their boat. gram out of Phil Jackson’s play book.

that Knat had Two more unidentified Bolsa surfers enjoying the new sand bars. a rare form of dyslexia where instead of getting the letters mixed up in a word, he got the words mixed up in a sentence. Apparently, he had sat underneath the Drug Free Zone sign at the park for several hours without receiving what he thought the about a hour they both walked out the door and Oh thank in you dredging barge! sign was saying. This prompted me to insist upon them both going through a quick search by me. Going to Mexico with idiots who might be carrying something was not in my life plan. Neither had anything on them except shorts t-shirts wax and their boards.

There was only one incident that stood out on our trip to Ensenada. That was in T.J., when on La Revolucion Blvd, right in front of the “Bambi Room”, in a precision move that would have wowed any synchronized swimming coach, both Nivek and Knat bolted from the car. Since I had searched They had planned to stay three days, on the last Knat got in the car and then went on a five-minute them earlier I knew that they had a combined total day, a south swell hit the island, and smack dab in rage talking about how it was all b.s. and he hated of $15.73 between them, and it was only a matter the middle of the bay was a wave bowling out in society and he had wasted the day with nothing to of time. I was able to park in a location where I both directions. show for it. After further questioning, I surmised could watch the front door of the strip club, and

jumped in the car. There was little to say, no conversation, after that little trick. We hit the airport just in time to watch Raj’s flame painted Cessna touch down. Story to continue in our next issue.

MARK.OURWAVE@VERIZON.NET

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OurWave Vol.3- Issue# 1- Mar/2006-Apr/2006

Page #14

Do your part and help get trash in the trash can.

S U R F E R S E P I C SHO T S

AL OC

Keep our beaches clean!

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Get Our Wave delivered to you. Subscriptions $15 for 6 issues. (562) 493-4849 (562) 858-2577

SURF PHOTOGRAPHER FOR HIRE $35.00 per hour (2 hour minimum). Price includes two 8x10 photos and a CD of all photos from your session. You can have pictures made into any size you choose.

Can’t afford it, then get a friend or two and split the cost.

Call Eddy @ 562-493-4849. Pray for surf, for great pictures pray for sun.

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OurWave Vol.3- Issue# 1- Mar/2006-Apr/2006

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This Paper is FREE.

We are a bi-monthly newspaper distributing 10,000 copies from Long Beach to Newport Beach .

Editors: Mark Lugenbuehl and Eddy Raposa Photography: Eddy Raposa Graphic design: Mark Lugenbuehl Editing support: John Ciccarelli Nina Vafaie Brandy Sullivan and Mike Lugenbuehl O u r Wa v e N e w s p a p e r 4 1 8 1 E . P a t e r o Wa y Long Beach CA, 90815

W S

D W A

A M

INFLIGHT

ZUMAJAY JACKS HSS

FROGHOUSE

GREEN ROOM KATIN

HARBOUR

KILLER DANA BRUCE JONES LUAHUNA MAD WAX ALT SURF SAKAL

Have you noticed yourself or one of your buddies being listed as an “Unidentified” surfer in this or any issue of Our Wave? Give us a call or contact us over the Web. We would love to re-run the photo on the cover with the correct name and maybe a little write-up as well.

photos by Eddy Raposa

Page #15

ATTENTION READERS!

• FREE •

CLASSIFIEDS FOR SURFBOARD SALES!!! Please keep it short and sweet.. Send your surfboard classified to: mark.ourwave@verizon.net Check our web site for more listings Boards for sale

6’8” ec. Round tail, thruster, FCS fins. worked great when I was 210 lbs. Great board, $175. (562) 858-2577 6’4” Blue Hawaii thruster. Used, $100 call 562-926-2108

for advertising inquiries, contact:

Eddy Raposa (562) 493-4849 e d d y. o u r w a v e @ v e r i z o n . n e t Mark Lugenbuehl (562) 858-2577 mark.ourwave@verizon.net Brandy Sullivan (714) 227-3918 guitaraccess@yahoo.com

South Coast Mini Gun Surfboard 6-10” x 18.65” x 2.55” pin tail tri-fin with deck pad. $230.00 Contact: Danny (562)964-6237 danny@bermingham.com Bettis Longboard 9’6” 1 + 2 with Futura side bit fins. Rounded pin tail. In excelent shape. Nearly brand new. Green color. Call for pricing 562-858-2577

Services

DING REPAIR, serving Huntington/Seal Beach area. 30 yrs exp call 562-926-2108 or e-mail murph1061@netzero.net Full Maintenance Gardening Service Call Frank @ 526-858-9347 Day Care Long Beach Little Stars Day Care Immediate Opening License #198006707 CPR Certified Jennifer Perez 562 498 4560

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FACE PLANT.

HOTWHEELS 1967-1977 CASH PAID - Top $ for cars in mint condition. One car or whole collections Mike (562)708-9069 Your ads, classifieds, stories and artwork in Our Wave Newspaper. Call 562-493-4849 or email mark.ourwave@verizon.net

Our Wave Content Contribution Disclaimer.

Above- Unidentified Bolsa Chica. Below- Unidentified Seal Beach

Contributions are welcomed by Our Wave. All contributions shall remain the exclusive property of the author/contributor. Author/Contributor shall retain all rights pertaining to said submission for publication. Our Wave shall not be liable nor responsible for any claims or damages of any nature whatsoever, arising from publication of said submitted contributions for publication.

OUR WAVE ADVERTISMENT DISCLAIMER

We at Our Wave have made every reasonable effort to ensure that our business advertisers are reputable, honest, and trustworthy; and that the content of such advertisement is accurate. However, unless otherwise indicated, Our Wave, and or its subsidiaries, affiliates or assigns are protected, without limitation from any and all liability pertaining to public utilization of advertised services as contained in said publication. Our Wave makes no representations or warranties with respect to advertisers and the services and or products referenced therein. Our Wave and its employees, agents, suppliers, and contractors shall in no event be liable for any claims, charges, contractor’s damages, liabilities, losses, and or expenses of whatever nature, and howsoever arising, including without limitation any compensatory, incidental, direct, indirect, special, punitive, or consequential damages, loss of income or profit, loss of or damage to property, claims of third parties or other losses of any kind of character.

Above- Unidentified Secret Spot 562-858-2577

562-493-4849

OurWave Vol.3- Issue# 1- Mar/2006-Apr/2006

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Page #1 6

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OurWave Vol.3- Issue# 1- Mar/2006-Apr/2006