Our Wave issue 4 by Mark Lugenbuehl

LOCAL SURFERS Surfers Express

Grom

Surfer opinions, biographies, or fictional writings

Costa Rica If you like warm water, warm people, hot sun and perfect surf you will love Costa Rica. I have been to many places throughout my travels, and Costa Rica is my all-time favorite, with its lush green environment, beautiful sunsets and wildlife like you have never seen before. In Costa Rica you will see iguanas, parrots, monkeys and crocodiles in their own backyard, not like in pet stores and zoos. I have spent some time down here so let me give you some great tips:

tour (I’ll explain later). No sweatshirts needed except for the one that you take to LAX while you are freezing and waiting in line. You can also use it on your return flight home. No long pants - you will never even take them out of your suitcase. Basically all you need is tees and shorts. By the way, don’t pack that wetsuit either as the water temp hovers over 80 degrees year round (yeehaa). Bring a light color (white) long-sleeve rashguard because the sun is intense and you absolutely have to wear sunscreen/sun block. Pack a small first-aid kit, which is available at any drugstore. Also bring tweezers and liquid

Airfare - you can get tickets anywhere from $265 to $400 round-trip from LAX, (story continued on page #4) depending on when you go, (CHEAP, HUH?). Oh yeah, don’t forget that if you bring your surfboard the airlines charge you $50 each way - so bring an extra cash for your boards. Now that you have your tickets and passport, lets pack. As far as clothes go you won’t need much: tank tops, board shorts, sandals and a pair of shoes for the canopy

S ava n a G a r c i a With her game face on, Savana was taking no prisoners. Look out Seal Beach line-up, it looks like Savana will be around for quite a while.

Winner! Newspaper and friends would like to give a BIG congratulations to our own Kim Hamrock on winning the first annual women’s Pipeline event in the longboard division. Not only was Kim the oldest competitor in the event surfing against kids as old as her own children, but she also gave them a run for the money in the shortboard final as well. Go Kim!

photo- Carol Cunningham www.cunninghamphotos.com

Our Wave would like to thank Greg Miller and his staff at the Sandpiper Inn for inspiring us to write about Costa Rica.

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Seal Beach

LOCALS T

AJ and Tyler Collins

by Mark Burke

Owl Chapman. The 1980s brought us arguably the best brother combo of all: iblings, it seems, have always found a niche in our Michael and Pipe Master Derek Ho. Making surf culture. History tells us of Duke Kahanamoku a case for themselves regarding such an and his brother David, while not an Olympic champi- honor also, are Buffalo Kealana’s “Sons of on or worldwide surfing ambassador like the Duke, was a Makaha”, Brian and Russ, perhaps the modrenowned Hawaiian beach boy and surfer in his own right. ern day counterparts to the Kahanamoku’s. In the 1950s, Peter Cole tamed Sunset Beach and other As the new millennium arrived, it was a North Shore venues with less known brother Cornelius. who’s who of brother acts, multiple world Representation ran deep locally in the 1960s as the Buell champ Kelly Slater and longboarding profes(Sammy /Denny) and Haley (Mike and US champ Jack) sional brother Steven. The San Clemente brothers rode anything from Seal Beach’s Ray Bay to the Mafia includes the Beschen’s (Shane and Banzai Pipeline on Oahu. Gavin) and the Fletcher’s (Christian and Nathan). Do Andy and Bruce Irons or Shea As a gremmie, I remember the early 70s with Gary and and Cory Lopez vaguely ring a bell? Strong surf talent indeed! If not for space constraints, the list would be even larger.

So, it may seem a bit lofty or presumptuous to include brothers Tyler and A.J. Collins to this list. Before you scoff at such a notion, let’s remember that these 2 brothers are the sons of forecasting guru and surf prognosticator, Sean Collins. Their front yard is the not so famous, slushy, 7-11 beach break of north Orange County, CA. “Dad” has built what seems to be a veritable luxury skybox overlooking the north side Surf Park that is home. In doing so, these 2 are always aware of the conditions, and on it at the slightest sign of surf. Tyler, the elder, is probably the better free surfer, while younger brother A.J. is fast becoming a competitive phenom, as his double 1st place finishes in the 2005 Seal Beach Championship will attest to. Both are stellar talents with an excellent future ahead of them.

Whether riding one-foot, lifeless dribble or dredging, heaving South-side, A.J. and Tyler certainly carry the flag with honor as Collin’s color bearers. Efforts to contact the boys for this issue were thwarted, it seems the 2 were on a Surf Safari in El Salvador. More power to this globetrotting pair as they spend Spring Break in Central America. Perhaps, a day will come when their names will be added to the illustrious list of surfing brothers. In my book, they are already part of that list because of the good vibe and stoke they spread in our local waters.

On a recent morning, I encounter Tyler, who gives me a slight nod of approval as I journey to the ocean’s edge. The following day, young A.J. stylishly bangs lip as I paddle out in close proximity. He rides the wave to the inside with a smile a mile wide. These guys ARE the next generation, Written by MS Burke loaded with talent, and lacking of attitude or ego.

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Costa Rica

(continued from page #1) Band-Aid, which works great for small scrapes and cuts. Bring 2 leashes and 2 leash strings. Also, bring warm-water wax and take lots of stuff to give to the locals when you leave. Also bring some straps and soft racks if you have them. The taxis have racks but it’s always better to be safe than rackless. Bring a ding repair kit; some spots have lots of rocks and reef, and above and beyond, bring a good vibe. So now that you are packed, have your ticket and your car rental, its time to go. Make sure you arrive 3 hours prior to departure at LAX; all international flights require a 3-hour advanced check-in. Coming home you can get away with 2 hours prior to leaving. If you don’t get a car rental when arriving in San Jose, Costa Rica, use Kevin’s Transfers (kevinstransfers.com) to pick you up at the airport. It’s kind of nice to be driven to your hotel, especially at night. They have safe drivers and are super cool. You can always rent a car in Jaco. Jaco is only a few minutes out of Playa Hermosa and the Sandpiper Inn, which is exactly where I like to stay.

Pancho - slicing it up in the surf and in the kitchen. house with all the amenities. They also have a restaurant, bike rentals, and surfboard rentals. The rooms have cable TV, AC and are super clean and well maintained. There’s even ping-pong for you table tennis lovers. The Sandpiper also has a security guard, AKA “Hector Macho Camacho” who walks the grounds all night keeping an eye on everything. The beach out front is a long stretching black sand beach. Super clean and trash free. There are around five breaks; all within ten minutes of the Sandpiper, but right out front it breaks the best. Costa Rica coffee is the best in the world, and Greg just opened a coffee shop in Jaco (5 minutes away) called Off the Lip for your early morning surf session. They also have fresh fruit and smoothies; definitely a must stop.

Sandpiper Inn lush grounds and pool and jacuzzi. Another must thing to do is to take the Chiclets Tree Canopy Tour. Email: chicletstree@yahoo.com; phone number in Costa Rica: 643-1880. Allan and his crew are safe, courteous, funny and intelligent and will make you trip a fun, safe experience. What’s a canopy tour you say? Basically you are hooked up to a cable suspended by two trees at the top of the tree line. You are put in a harness with a pulley and away you go. You don’t have to be in Tarzan shape to do this. There were 3 women in their 60’s when we went so don’t Playa Hermosa has a solid top to bottom be afraid. It is super easy overhead wave; a beach break that is defiand safe. When you are flynitely a challenge. Mostly a shortboard ing through the treetops it is break, but you can also longboard if you the coolest thing you’ll ever are on your game. The main peak is right do. My friend, Cathy, who out in front of The Sandpiper Inn. Greg can barely even ride a Ferris Miller of Seal Beach owns the Sandpiper Inn as well as The Sandpiper Bicycle Shop. wheel, was the first in our group and she zipped down The Sandpiper Inn is managed by that line like she had been Pancho...where do I start about Pancho? Pancho is the most friendly, nicest, genuine doing it everyday. The views are spectacular. So person you will ever meet anywhere. When you first meet him you will immedi- make sure you go see Chiclets Tree Canopy From left to right - Allen, Pachi, Jonathan, Tachi, Adrian, Pana - the crew from Chiclets Canopy Tour. ately know what I mean. Pancho will Tour It’s the funest make your trip a truly great experience. He thing ever. So now will do everything to make your stay the lets go fishing. best ever. He learned to cook with master chefs, and also cooks up the best meals Costa Rica offers ever with his native Argentinean flavor. He some of the worlds will even spear fish and cook them right in best fishing for tuna, front of you. The Sandpiper Inn has beausailfish, marlin and tiful lush grounds, a non-crowded tropical rooster fish just to atmosphere, a small pool with Jacuzzi, six (story continued rooms, and a three-bedroom, 2-bath 2-story on page #12) World Longboard

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SEAL BEACH LOCALS

Jeff O’Donnell I

first ran into Jeff O’Donnell, quite literally, some years ago at Ray Bay. It was a fun peaky swell at Minus Two Bowl. On perhaps the prettiest “A” frame of the A.M. session, I stalked my way outside. Hoping to go left on the pristine loomer, I turned shoreward as the swell lifted on the sandbar. Paddling hard and ready to drop in, a stockily built blonde kid muscled into my oncoming path.

and the Santa Ana River to the south. It encompasses Seal Beach, Surfside, Sunset Beach, Bolsa Chica, Huntington Cliffs, Huntington Pier and Huntington State Beach. In the 19 years since our un-sanctimonious meeting at Ray Bay, Jeff O’Donnel and I have probably shared waves and scored 4-star surf sessions at 10 of the spots listed in the 1963 publication.

Eyeballing me precariously, he bristled, “Right, Bro, Going Right”. I though to myself “Right! We’re going left” and quickly stood, so as to claim the peak, by rising to my feet. Undaunted, the stout regular foot didn’t back off. We both hit beautiful bottom turns, driving hard: Me going left, Jeff going right - square into one another!! The wave was over. History. The verbal jousting about to begin. We toppled over each other, and both of us came up in the whitewater, spewing venomous barbs regarding each other’s ability and to our status as to belong.

Sure, We were both very tentative when we would see each other. Little by little, the tension eased as we actually split peaks during an October West swell at Surfside’s Anderson St. Next, it was hollow right handers off Seal Beach Pier during a clean Northwest swell, with optimum offshore conditions. When I would venture down As we exchanged expletives in angry tones, PCH to surf Bolsa or HB, Jeff would be finally Jeff says to me “Go Back to Long there already, as if our meetings were Beach”. “Screw You”, I spat back “You pre-arranged. paddle out here like you own it”. “Go back Many words were ever exchanged between to Long Beach”, he repeated, as if a mantra. “You go home”, I exploded back at the two of us, but many waves were. Bit by bit, a silent camaraderie was built between him. He just laughed at me, “Home? It’s 204 1st St., you’ll see it on your way OUT us. Throughout the 1980’s, the 1990’s and into the new millennium, our aquatic paths of town”. continued to intersect and King Neptune Touché- Jeff The Local - 1, Mark The rewarded us both at each stop down the Interloper - 0. line. As we grew older-it go even better. The impact of what had happened was not lost on me. Board damaged, surf session supreme done and gone and enemy made of your local on 1st St. There is enough for everyone, so have a slice of Bad Vibe Pie! Easier to bail, I sheepishly paddled away from the confrontation. That’s when heavy local surfer known as “The Creature”, approached Jeff to survey damages on his board.

Our first meeting was a distant thought when we scored heavily during the ‘98 Tahitian swell at the river of San Gabriel. Legendary surfer Tm Dorsey compared this swell to others that would go down as best in California surf history. In the recent and not so recent El Niño winters, Jeff and I would be at “A” plus “A” frame North Side in the mornings, minus tide dredging South Side in the afternoon.

Now, “The Creature” has lived on 1st St. for many years and I’ve seen him since I first rode Crabs, in 1972, at age 10. He is a very hot surfer, who deserves the respect that he receives. Jeff points in my direction, explaining his predicament.

In our local surf scene of beachbreaks, rivermouths, sandbars, etc., it is of primary importance to know the tides and tidal variations. One can truly garner an advantage and optimize there surf time by mastering the subtle nuances of tidal knowledge. Jeff O’Donnell understands these facts and figures as well as anyone. In doing so, he is usually at the right place, at the right time.

Ignominiously, I paddle in on my damaged 6’6” thruster. I take Jeff’s advice and go home to Long Beach. But, our paths would continue to cross, again and again and again. (Later on, I would find out that Jeff is actually the son of the infamous “Creature”. More on that in a future issue.) Author Bank Wright’s Publication, Surfing California, list some 13 surf breaks or spots between the San Gabriel River to the north

O’Donnel almost lost. His leg is almost lost and then, his life. Jeff’s struggle is for existence.

“Yeah Mark, Blah! Blah! Blah!, who are you to talk when you could have done the same thing to him at Ray Bay in 1986”. It is a point well taken and I am mindful I realize that this sounds very dramatic. Jeff of such an observation. In truth, Jeff assured me when I spoke with him that he approached me to write this and I happily wishes he could re-live the day at complied. Huntington Cliffs when an errant surfboard would change his life. He conSo, if it is long-winded or stale to veyed at me how he was midway you, you have my sympathy. I through a backside floater and know how much Jeff had cleared another surfer by O’Donnell misses being in the 5-10 feet when he landed the ocean. How much he misses re-entry maneuver, seemingsurfing. I also know that his ly in the clear. The loose rehabilitation has caused board of the paddler flew him to spend more time from the breaking wave with his wife, Keke and crushing into Jeff’s Tibia. two sons, Merrick and Surgery is required to fix Jack, a precious time, the leg that is broken in indeed, to be husband three places. O’Donnell and father to your famiis sensitive of the fact ly. Even with all his that the surfer who recent medical malbailed his board in the adies, from this wave’s face, offered no reporter’s vantage assistance. To this day, point, he is a fortunate he is unsure of how he son. made it to the beach What started as a bangwith the shattered leg. ing of the heads, has A rocky road of surgery ended in a meeting of and rehabilitation ensues. the minds. Hopefully, Between Thanksgiving Jeff’s recovery time is and Christmas 2004, infecquick, so that this 35 year tion set in, and at one point, old surfer returns to the doctors even speak of ampulocal line ups. tating the leg. The worry of Until that time, best wishes blood poisoning and clotting and good luck to you, Jeff. further cloud the prognosis. “Our Wave” wishes you a Fortunately, his condition finally stacomplete and speedy recovery. bilizes in January of 2005. His wooden cane is now a constant companion and -Written by MS Burke reminder of the November 2004 incident.

I wish I could end this article right here and now and tell you readers that all was seashells and balloons. The realities of life makes this epilogue a truly sobering experience. The year 2004 brings with it an array of strenuous struggle: For me a struggle to make ends meet. To lose one’s job is nothBy now, most of you are possible thinking, ing when put beside what Mr. Jeff

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SEAL BEACH LOCALS “BE SOMEONE ELSE WHO PEOPLE DON’T SEE OUT OF THEIR ENVIRONMENT”, AND YOU CAN MYSTIFY THE PEOPLE WHO THINK THEY KNOW YOU.

hayla is a natural girl of wonder, such as her air brush design on the bottom of her 9’2 Murphey Shira board. When Shayla surfs the vibe is entirely built upon her strong progressive style of letting the waves guide the way, she surfs with a classical yet powerful technique, definitely one not to be undermined. She always proves her spot as part of Seal’s local line up North side of the pier, and has no problem being the only girl in a pack of wave hungry guys. Bodyboarding was Shayla’s previous obsession, for 5 years, prior to her surfing addiction. Shayla described those days as difficult, “but once you get to know the people your surfing with and the waves you’ll be riding, you learn aggression and right of way”. Aaron, a friend of Shayla’s got her into surfing at the turn of the century, and within the past 4 years, Shayla has only excelled at the sport. Wonderful

attributes come along with being a surfer. Shayla describes surfing as not only a sport or activity, but rather a lifestyle. “With surfing, you can go out with a group of friends or you can just go out alone”. “Surfing is an escape out of the reality kept in ones head”. “The drive to surf clears ones mind”. Once you began surfing, and you decide to stick with it. There’s no escaping the need for bigger and better waves. Shayla is not only a Seal Beach surfer, but a girl in search for adventure. She has already traveled to Costa Rica, and Hawaii, 2 places where some of the world’s best waves graze the sandy shores with perfect sea shells. Shayla is a fun chick in or out of the water. If you see her in the water, ask her how long it takes to broil an apple pie. -Megan Coleman

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OurWave Vol.2- Issue# 2- Apr/2004-May/2005

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SURFERS ART

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OurWave Vol.2- Issue# 2- Apr/2004-May/2005

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H u n t i n g t o n B e a c h LOCALS

J E S S I E E VA N S

o one day I’m shooting South Side Seal and my friend Ron walks up with his grandson just as this nasty grinding suck up peak comes rolling in and some guy paddles into the peak and air drops into this “death pit”. We just stood their with our jaws on the beach while this dude makes the most impossible shorebreak pit look like it was just another day at the park. Well let me just say that to see him make this wave and the speed he had was amazing. When I seen him paddling for this pit I thought “Oh no, he’s going to die” but he made it look so easy. Then he got out of the water and was leaving so I stopped him and asked him his name (because I knew I had a great sequence). He told me that his name is Jessie Evens.

Later that day I’m riding my bike and as I ride past Inflight, I see a life size poster of, you guessed it, Jessie Evans riding for Excel wetsuits. Some people told me he surfs Huntington Beach so Jessie, when you see this give us a call, we would like to see some more of you in Our Wave. 3

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HUNTINGTON BEACH LOCALS Kids for Clean Waves Surf Contest and Eco-Coastal Educational programs for all kids and families...

very year over 200 kids surf & compete, share and learn more about the importance of our fragile ocean playground that we want to preserve and protect. And, every year, a fun raffle raises money to support specific programs for kids 17 & under. Established in 1992, Kids for Clean Waves was developed by World Champion Surfer, Jericho Poppler Bartlow. The goal is to provide a fun, competitive surf experience for children ages 17 and under. The organization recognizes donations through their media outreach, pre, during and post the event. All donated items are tax deductible under our 501C3. Please contact them for further information on supporting future events at: kids4cleanwaves@email.com. This years event was another fun family affair with great weather and punchy challenging surf. Jericho puts on such a great even. All the warm, positive energy coming from the families that came and participated in the event, was rewarded from Mother Ocean with a good surf and a good time.. CONTEST RESULTS:

BOYS SHORTBOARD 17 & UNDER 1ST Pat Moore 2ND Zak Welch 3RD Parker McMullin 4TH Cody Lauzier 5TH Justin Soenksen 6TH Adrian Straight GIRLS SHORTBOARD 17 & UNDER 1ST Jenna Balester 2ND Sara Taylor 3RD Sophia Bartlow 4TH Meagan Rogers 5TH Nichole Jenderico 6TH Megan Hallaian BOYS LONGBOARD 17 & UNDER 1ST Shane VanHerk 2ND Chase Vittitoe 3RD Sterling Foxcroft 4TH Scott Courtney 5TH Eric Tomlinson GIRLS LONGBOARD 17 & UNDER 1ST Sara Taylor 2ND Sophia Bartlow 3RD Justeen Kaneshiro 4TH Meagan Rogers

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BOYS SHORTBOARD 13 & UNDER 1ST Matthew Nickel 2ND Clay Crandal 3RD Christian Saenz 4TH Jesse Stillman 5TH Dane Sequeira 6TH Rusty Sary

SPIRIT AWARD These contestants demonstrated outstanding sportsmanship, character, enthusiasm, and captured the “Spirit” of The Kids for Clean Waves purpose. Winners received Custom Surfboards from West Coast Surfboards. CONGRATULATIONS!

GIRLS SHORTBOARD 13 & UNDER 1ST Kaleigh Gilchrist 2ND Melina Smith 3RD Tess Lustbaum 4TH Ginger Wojcik 5TH Ashley Woody 6TH Anise Guzman

Dewy Wojcik, Age 13, From Shelter Cove

Jericho with Manny Garcia from West Coast Surfboards. photo- Lugenbuehl

Shanae Driessen, Age 13, From Huntington Beach

BOYS LONGBOARD 13 & UNDER 1ST Nicholas Hagen 2ND Matthew Nickel 3RD Dennis White 4TH Wade Carden 5TH Randy Gilkerson 6TH Cameron Faris GIRLS LONGBOARD 13 & UNDER 1ST Shanae Driessen 2ND Ginger Wojcik 3RD Kirra Kehoe 4TH Tory Gilkerson 5TH Heather Balbier 6TH Bridget Bartlow BOYS NOVICE 9 & UNDER 1ST Jordan Robinson 2ND Kanoa Igarashi 3RD Nolan Rapoza 4TH Jordan Kudla 5TH Jake Saenz 6TH Grant Rapoza GIRLS NOVICE 9 & UNDER 1ST Torrey Mietke 2ND Laine Ortiz 3RD Chloe Murray 4TH Emily Knapp BOYS BODYBOARD 1ST Cameron Faris

GIRLS BODYBOARD 1ST Sara Taylor

OurWave Vol.2- Issue# 2- Apr/2004-May/2005

Photographs - Robin Hoyland

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HUNTINGTON BEACH LOCALS

Learning New Lessons W

hen you first start learning to surf, it’s all about doing everything right, catching on fast, and being accepted, at least that’s what it was like for me. So I went out, and learned to stand on my board, learned to turn and to pump, and finally, I started to go to the outside. I never did much, just kind of sat out there and watched. Finally, one day I went out with a couple of my friends. It was a four to five foot day, and I’ve always had a fear of heights. Now when you are sitting on your board, and looking at a wave that’s coming at you head on, I don’t care what anyone says, it looks bigger than it really is.

ceremony for David Nuuhiwa a.k.a. Uncle David. I had decided not to paddle out because I wasn’t feeling too good about the conditions, and last time that happened someone had to push me in, so I decided that I would just watch. When I saw my “surf uncle” along with a great many other people and surfers, all disappointed, sad, whatever you want to call it, I started thinking about what all those people have in common. I really started thinking, what do they know, that I could learn from right now, to help me out? I realized that they all rely on themselves very much, and that they are all very independent, but they also I did go back out though, on that same depend on each other, and the water and board that I had gotten hurt on. I was waves. Not only do they rely on and shocked to find out, that I wasn’t scared depend on the waves, they trust them too. of my board, but I refused to go for a wave, They trust and love them. That is someand that’s what it was like for 2 and a half thing that I hadn’t done since I had gotten months after I had gotten hurt. Then I had hurt, and I was never sure what I was a panic attack out in the water. Some guy, afraid of until today. I was afraid that that I don’t even know, pushed me in (if since I didn’t trust the water, that someyou know who you are and you are reading thing would probably happen to me, this, thanks!), with the help of my best because the water wouldn’t trust me friend. That’s when I realized, that the in return. mind makes things harder than they seem. A quote my math teacher told me, is that Then I kept looking around, and I kept things aren’t really hard, we just make thinking, and I realized what a beautiful, them that way, and I really began to and graceful and natural sport this is, it understand that. I also understood how really is like walking on water, and surfers much more mental than physical surfing is, really are the most in tune with nature and that surfing really is an extreme sport people that I have ever met in my life. So and that it really does take guts. Another I was walking on the pier, to where the thing I learned that day, is that surfing guys were paddling out to form the circle, really isn’t a solo sport, it is a group sport, and some guys, from out of town, asked and a group effort, when it comes to sharme if I knew what was going on, and I ing waves and things like that everyone explained to him, that when a surfer, or has to work together with one and another. surf legend dies, the way surfers pay their respects, is by having a Paddle Out, in his Well, today was the paddle out and memory. All the surfers paddle out in a

circle, and what goes on from then to the surfing varies. Then, while all the guys were forming the circle I realized, that people, who didn’t know David, people like me, who just felt that they had to pay their respects, were out there too. Then, automatically, a thought popped into my head, it was the first time that I had ever actually thought it before, but it felt like I had know it my whole life. Surfing isn’t just a sport, it’s a family. A tight knit family, whether you are just learning or have been surfing for years, you realize how close everyone is, and you just want to be part of it so badly, that is why you always wanted to be accepted by the surfers as a beginner. This family is there to support you, no matter what the wave, trick, condition, or person, inside or outside of the water. I was, and still am, and probably always will be, amazed at the lessons that surfing can teach people if people would just pay enough attention, and not be so blind sighted. I have learned so many things in just a short time surfing. That waves are like people, each one is different, if you trust it, it will trust you, you still have to make the right decisions, karma, everything. And if someone ever asks me what is going on and why the surfers are all paddling so far out and forming a circle, I will explain to them just like I explained to the other guy about paying our respects, but this time, I’ll add just one more thing, surfing isn’t just a sport, it’s a family too. -Autum R. Fox

PTIL E

S E

Well, my friend encouraged me to go for a wave, and told me that they were positive that I wasn’t going to get hurt. I had only been riding for two months, so I didn’t know what to do if I fell, such as tuck, grab my board, etc. The first few waves they told me to go for, I backed out or didn’t paddle for them at all. Eventually though, I had gotten tired of just sitting out there, so I went for what looked like it was going to be a two foot wave (and to my knowledge popped up to about four feet), and me, being scared, closed my eyes while paddling for the wave (yes, I learned my lesson on that one). Next thing I know, I thought, ‘Hey I’m tumbling, cool!’ My body must have went into shock or something, because all I can remember is spinning once, and paddling for the wave, and I guess I stood up and turned and just ate it. At first I thought that I wasn’t hurt, but to my surprise my leg really hurt. But I thought that I was just being a baby, so I bit the bullet and paddled back out. My

friend had asked me if I was okay, and I told him that I was fine, it was just that my left leg was bothering me. He took one look at my leg and told to me paddle in. I paddled in and look at the leg and it was red, covered in blood. The life guard said that I would need 10 to 15 stitches (oh, did I mention that I am afraid of needles too?), so my friend took me to the hospital. I received 10 stitches, 5 inside and 5 out, but they had not cleaned it or properly or instructed me on how to take care of it. My cut got infected 5 times and lasted 3 months.

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pg 11

Fill up at the Secret Spot and don’t keep it a secret.

Costa Rica (continued from page #4) name a few. A fishing trip in Costa Rica is an awesome experience. You can get Pancho to ‘hook you up’ with a local fisherman. We had Carlos who took us on the inside for roosterfish but we caught amberjack (10 to 14 lbs.) It was a non-stop fish off. Even if you don’t catch fish it’s nice to just be on the water. You never know what you’ll see - dolphins on the bow or bat rays breaching. For you nature lovers there’s Manuel Antonio Park about 50 minutes south of Playa Hermosa with its white sand beaches and lush green jungles; it’s a tree huggers dream. We hiked through the whole park; you can walk a trail through the rain forest (Don’t worry, stay on the trail and you won’t get lost.) You can see monkeys, lizards, toucans, parrots, sloths and much much more. Bring water and wear shoes; there are a couple small climbs. You can eat, shop and relax on the beautiful white sand beach. Try the outside BBQ where the locals eat...it’s killer. So lets talk about surfing again. There are many surf spots for all levels of surfers only a short drive away. Depending on the time of the year you can always get waves somewhere. Boca Barranca is a 50-minute drive north of Playa Hermosa. It breaks on south swell. If you catch it at the right times it will be the longest wave you ever ride in your life. It breaks on a river mouth that peals left forever. Mostly a long board spot but it can get really good for you rippers as well. If you feel like driving, there is Playa Nigra. If you catch it right it fires down a right point break that reels all the

Local

Chad Price

finding some shade in Playa Hermosa The local soccer games are always good entertainment.

(story continued on next page) HB Pier 5 miles --->

Warner & PCH

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Mention this ad between 9am and 10am and get a Dollar off any breakfast bur rito, ever yday. pg 12

OurWave Vol.2- Issue# 2- Apr/2004-May/2005

My name is Tina and I stay healthy by: 1) surfing and 2) The Secret Spot. The first time I walked into the Spot, I thought, “Cool, this place has a unique little art collection,” then I had a Tuna Melt and I thought, “Wow, this is very Yummy.” On top of all that, the people were super friendly. I guess that’s how I’ve come to find myself working here. The customers who come in have a good, positive vibe and are just really nice to talk to and serve. O.K., honestly, the best thing about working at the Secret Spot is it takes 5 minutes to get to work after surfing as well as serving the people I just shared a wave with earlier. At the Secret Spot we take pleasure in offering friends, surfers and customers healthy food. Let’s say it just rained and you surfed the River Jetty’s at Newport, come save yourself with some wheat grass. If you ate across the street at Jack in the Box, get a Flu Fighter smoothie. Or if you’re just reallyreally hungry, the HB Surround Sound burrito would fill you up no problem. Healthy food that tastes good, you can’t find that everywhere. So whether you were just at Seal, Bolsa Chica, or down at Blacky’s...no matter where you surf, the Secret Spot is the place to grub after a surf session. Be a smart surfer. Eat healthy.

Do you fill up at the Secret Spot? Give us your story and be in the next ad.

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For Epic surf shots like the photos in OurWave Hire Eddy 562-493-4849

Off the lip coffee shop in Jaco

If you need to rent boards or need ding repair while down here, Fischer Bros (www.fbsurfboards.com) is the place to go. Nico, Ton and Facu are 3 brothers who shape, design, and glass their own boards. They have their shaping room and shop in Playa Hermosa and another shop in Jaco. Nico, who I had the most contact with, is the nicest young man you could ever meet. Always has a smile and a great attitude. By the way this kid rips, definitely the stand out surfer at Hermosa. He was getting barreled at just about every wave making sections no one else were making and blasting aerials like you’ve never seen. So if you need any lessons, boards or ding repair, stop by Fischer Bros. They will happily ‘surf’ your needs.

S U R F E R S E P I C S HO L A T OC

way to the beach. You can also go to Tamarindo and rent a boat and go to Witches Rock and Ollies Point. Witches Rock is a heavy beach break with really hollow and fast waves; rights and lefts. Ollies is a right point break, great long board wave, kind of Malibuish.

SURF PHOTOGRAPHER FOR HIRE $35.00 per hour (2 hour minimum). Price includes two 8x10 photos and a CD of all photos from your session. You can have pictures made into any size you choose. Can’t afford it, then get a friend or two and split the cost.

Call Eddy @ 562-493-4849. Pray for surf, for great pictures pray for sun.

Local standout

N i c o Fi s c h e r

showing his local knowledge

There are so many things to do in Costa Rica that you just can’t see and do everything on one trip. That’s why I keep coming back. Every time I come I see something new, meet new people and make new friends. So make sure you put Costa Rica on the top of your travel list and when you go, stay at the Sandpiper Inn and meet Pancho. It’s the vacation of a lifetime. -all photos by ER Surfpics.

www.ourwavenewspaper.com

OurWave Vol.2- Issue# 2- Apr/2005-May/2005

pg 13

Want to be in OurWave like Erica? Give us your story and photos.

Bolsa Chica

LO C A L S

M a r k Pe r r y M

ark Perry is quite a unique guy. He is an old-school, hard-core surf nomad. Mark is one of the best surfers to ever come out of Long Beach (or any beach for that matter). His specialty is riding small fish boards. I don’t really know how he does it. The boards he rides are super small and he is a pretty big guy. There’s no one around (that I have seen) who can ride a fish like Mark when the waves get really big. And when it does get big and there is no one else is out, that’s when Perry really turns it on. That’s when he’s ripping at his best. .

Bad Fish

pg 14

-illustration by Mark Lugenbuehl

OurWave Vol.2- Issue# 2- Apr/2004-May/2005

This is Mark’s wave, not Our Wave...

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ike “The Architech” Shewbridge is how I know him. Mike is one of the most dedicated surfers out there. It doesn't matter how cold, how big or small it is, Mike is checking the surf. If the waves are big, he is charging. When the waves are small, his pulling out all the moves. When its to small or blown out, you will see him riding his bike to Huntington Beach Pier. Most of the time you will see him getting wave, after wave, after wave and he rarely falls. Check out some of these images and you will see what I am writing about.

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136 Main Street • Seal Beach • CA 90740 (562) 596-4108 OurWave Vol.2- Issue# 2- Apr/2005-May/2005

pg 15

Help keep the beach clean and pick up some trash.

Surfers Who are Making a Difference Gordon Labedz, MD by Beth Barnes Con•science, n. The awareness of a moral or ethical aspect to one’s conduct together with the urge to prefer right over wrong.

their voices were heard. Many had already witnessed the demise of Long Beach’s coastline and natural watershed with the construction of their breakwater and the thought of a similar structure off Surfside was considered unacceptable.

The Surfrider Foundation only had several thousand members during this time but opposition was strong. The line had been drawn in the sand and the community stood firm. With tremendous guidance and assistance from Congressman Dana If we were to list local surfers with a conRohrabacher, himself a local surfer, the science, as defined in the American government funding for the project was cut Heritage Dictionary, Gordon Labedz, MD and that was the end of the Surfside breakwould hold a place of honor close to the water. This was a seemingly small, local top. Gordon, is 58 years old and and has victory that set the scene for ‘local victobeen working at Kaiser Permanente as a ries’ throughout the growing Surfrider netfamily physician for 32 years. He is also a work. Seal Beach was on the map! Who Clinical Professor of Family Medicine at could have predicted that the passions of a UC Irvine and an advocate of vegetarianfew Southern California surfers would ism. He surfs dawn patrol every morning at mushroom into a well-respected foundation Seal Beach Pier before he starts the long that boasts over 37,000 members in sixty trek to Kaiser in East Los Angeles but is chapters across the United States and quick to add, “I never surf within 24 hours Puerto Rico today? An organization based of rain and a big rain keeps me out of the upon Respect, Activism, Conservation and water for at least 72 hours. The risk of sick- Education...a strong, and necessary line of ness from pollution doesn’t justify the defense for our coastal oceans. reward of the perfect morning wave.” Gordon goes on to say, “As a doctor, I’ve Presently, Gordon is the Chairman of the seen the medical affects of surfing too soon Long Beach Chapter of Surfrider as well as after the rains, and I’ve been victimized an elected leader in the Los Angeles myself; it’s just not worth it.” Chapter of the Sierra Club. He’s a familiar As one of the original members of the Surfrider Foundation, cleaning up the local waters has always been a priority for Gordon. He helped to design the structure of the national Surfrider organization as well as the original chapters, and was instrumental in helping to draft the first mission statement, by-laws and chapter bylaws. In its infancy, Surfrider was comprised of three chapters: San Diego, Santa Monica and none other than...Seal Beach!

face at City Council meetings and has earned his reputation of being a candid and committed spokesperson for the environment, in particular the ocean. It’s thanks to concerned surfer’s like Gordon that there are still waves in Surfside, and that local decision makers are being held accountable. He’s tireless in his pursuit to preserve what’s left, and restore what can be salvaged.

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Nice Catch!!! Bolsa Chica Local- Lauri Sher lock with 2 Halibut measuring in at 28” 10 lbs. & 21.5” 5 lbs.

Gordon’s son Michael makes his home on Kaua’i and next year, Gordon and his wife, Gordon explains that, “originally the Seal Diana will move into their new home in Beach Chapter was called the Stop the Kekaha, Kaua’i. He has always been an Breakwater Committee.” In 1991, the US advocate of right over wrong in his defense Navy proposed a one and a half mile break- of the ocean and environment. Gordon’s water in Surfside which would have virtuconscience is truly his guide. ally destroyed the beach ecologically, would have had a tremendous negative affect on the local environment and it would have severely altered the break so many surfers depended upon. Gordon and other surfers took a stand to ensure that Riding the Crest of a New Wave in Residential and Commercial Financing

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OurWave Vol.2- Issue# 2- Apr/2004-May/2005

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READERS REPLIES The Bolsa Chica Lowlands Restoration Project... I am concerned about the Bolsa Chica restoration project for the following reasons: 1. Potential pollution in the surf zone. The south end has the best waves and therefore the most surfers. 2. Affect the project may have on the quality of surf. 3. Health concerns for surfers and swimmers. 4. The lack of public knowledge available to the public. I have been surfing #17 for decades and heard only rumors and speculation. 5. The lack of involvement by Surfrider (I am a member). Human health concerns should be evaluated when considering environmental projects. I think we were all blindsided by the project. We had three weeks of rain and pollution and then BAM!- there’s this project going full steam ahead when we return in mid-January. I believe that those responsible for the project should be held accountable for the negative health consequences of their actions. Sincerely, Paul the Lion (long time #17 surfer)

Samoa... I was thrilled to see Jon writing about his surf-inspired globe-trotting experience in Samoa. I remember surfing with Jon occasionally while growing up in Long Beach. Something about his performance in the water, his attitude, his life perspective was carved from a different different set of clay. We both spent our college years on the same campus pursuing our different passions through various means and mediums. And although it’s been years since our paths have crossed, Jon’s article, his ability to capture an experience, immortalize it on paper, does a great justice for the dreamers who one day plan to embark on a journey of their own. Keep travelling, keep writing. Gifts of life and inspiration are infinitely more powerful when they are shared. Lee Underwood Long Beach, CA

WE WANT TO HEAR FROM

YOU!

Hey SURFERS! We want to hear from you about how the rain bummed you out or what you did instead of surfing to keep your stoke going during those rainy weeks. How about the working being done to Bolsa Chica and the wetlands. It is hard to believe that only one reader has had anything to say about that.

Dear Our Wave Newspaper. Please Help me forward this picture to this “Unknown”surfer. I believe I took this picture at the end of summer 2004 with a good swell. If I remember, the fire department responded to a drowning that same morning. It was a very good swell. I talked to this girl and she said she surfs the Pier all the time. Well, never when I came by. I lost

track of her and I wanted her to see this shot. It is two shots of the same wave. She has great wave knowledge and she knew what to do. Please find and pass on the photo. P.S. Keep up the good local work of highlighting local talent on good waves. -Paul Hagen Will do, Paul. Any of you ladies remember meeting Paul? If you think this is you, we have the photos and Paul's contact info. Give us a call at 562.858.2577 or email mark.surf@ verizon.net.

More information can be found on the website http://bolsachica.fws.gov. Surfers! Your opinions should be in this paper as every surfer from Surfside to Newport is going to be affected by this project.

Our Wave would like to apologize for not giving the correct credit for the Crossword puzzle in our last issue. Gloria Belliboni-Burke has really added the key stone to this publication with her Crossword submissions and we are eternally grateful.

We would also like to hear from you about our classified, crossword puzzle, and about our advertisers. We want to know if we are giving you everything this surfing community would like to see. would love to show off your paintings, drawings, or other artistic skills that show what surfing means to you. Your art is as much a part of the surfing landscape as your surfing is and we would like to help you share that with our readers. What do you have that we can spotlight for you? E-mail your suggestions, opinions, stories, or contact us about showing the rest of the surfing world your great art or crafts. Contact us through e-mail: mark.designs@verizon.net

231 Main St. S.B., CA 90740 562-598-1600

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We are a bi-monthly newspaper distributing 10,000 copies from Long Beach through Newport Beach areas.

Editors: Mark Lugenbuehl and Eddy Raposa Editing support: Mike Lugenbuehl Photography: Eddy Raposa Graphics: Mark Lugenbuehl Contributing Photography: Robin Hoyland

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OurWave Vol.2- Issue# 2- Apr/2005-May/2005

pg 17

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Sometimes you donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t have to travel so far to find that perfect wave. If you no when and where to look, you can find that perfect empty wave right in your own backyard. Matt Steuck finding perfect uncrowded waves much more closer to home than Samoa.

www.ourwavenewspaper.com

OurWave Vol.2- Issue# 2- Apr/2005-May/2005

pg 19

The water is for everyone. Play nice.

BOLSA CHICA LOCALS M a t t, S h a n e, & Biz

that many of today’s surfers don’t know how to do. Kenny also taught him how to work on surfboards and how to build things with his hands. Today, Matt puts that knowledge to good use, whether it be shaping boards at Spanners where he works, or or over 40 years, long time Long Beach riding one of his own recently designed resident, Kenny Bettis was a fixture at creations. Many a Robert August signaBolsa Chica State Beach, usually hanging ture board has been shaped by Matt. In out at tower #16. He was an old school addition, he shapes his own “Bettis surfer, riding his longboard with grace and Surfboards”, which are a common sight at style. Kenny had a gruff exterior, but once beaches in Huntington, at Bolsa Chica and you got to him, he was a pretty cool guy. in Seal Beach. Being a shaper, Matt has He was a lot of fun to surf with and seemed the luxury of being able to make new to have a knack for being in the right place boards for himself, to match all kinds of when the best waves rolled through the line swell conditions. A goofy foot like his up. Kenny would punctuate many a sendad, he can often be seen surfing early tence with the phrase, “I heard that!” and weekday mornings at Bolsa Chica, riding had a talent for giving people at the beach anything from a newly designed 11 foot nicknames that were quite appropriate. crowd control special when it is small and Kenny worked at ARCO for years, but mushy, to a 7ft. tri fin, when it is overhead enjoyed tinkering with surfboards in his and thumping. spare time. He had a little workshop in his garage, where he would glass boards for Matt has been working in the surf industry longtime Seal Beach local Kurt Asberger. for 26 years. He got his first job at 15 When he retired from ARCO, he took over years old, airbrushing boards at Harbour surfboard ding repair duties from Dr. Ding, Surfboards in Seal Beach. He has worked Bob Carbonell and continued to surf at in the surf industry ever since, except for Bolsa Chica with his friends. one brief foray into the field of construcUnfortunately, Kenny passed away a few tion. He thought that he needed a break years ago. Why am I telling you all this? from making surfboards, so Matt worked as

a long haired kid in his 20’s. He didn’t always surf a lot at Bolsa. He would come by and visit his dad and catch a surf here and there, but he preferred to surf with his friends wherever the waves were good, upper Trestles, the cliffs, HB, Newport and of course, when the right swell hit, Seal Beach. I used to think he was pretty cute and fun to surf with. He had very fluid style and wasn’t all agro in the water, like a lot of the other guys. Today, over twenty years later, he has a wife, 2 kids and short hair, but I still think Matt is a lot of fun to surf with. He married another Bolsa Chica surfer, Kerry, better known as Biz. They had their son Shane in 1997. Last year, another addition to the Bettis family was born in September, a little girl Kendall. Like many other married couples who surf, Matt and Biz can often be seen at the beach taking turns surfing and watching the kids. Between work, fatherhood and surfing, Matt is a busy man. I caught up with Matt upon his recent return from his annual trip to Costa Rica and asked him a few questions. Q: How was your trip to Costa Rica?

A: I had a good time. I went with some a house framer for a while. An unfortunate fun people and I enjoyed getting away. I Because the Bettis surfing legacy lives on have been going down to Costa Rica for encounter with a skill saw, abruptly ended with his son Matt. Matt Bettis grew up the past 6 or 7 times and each trip is differany more thoughts of a mid life career surfing Seal Beach and his dad taught him ent. This time the waves were flat at the change. He has worked at various places most everything he knows about surfing. over the years and still enjoys what he does usual places like Witches Rock, Tamarind, Growing up in the Bettis household, Matt Ollie’s and Boca Barranca. So we headed for a living. I asked Matt what he liked learned a lot from his dad. He learned the most about his job and he answered quick- out to a place called Playa Guiones in importance of hard work, responsibility and ly, “the freedom. As long as I do my work, another part of the country and got waves of course, how to surf. Kenny taught Matt I can come and go as I please. I often go in every day. It is a beach break and it ranged not just about riding waves, but to underat 2 or 3 am, take a break at 6 or 7 am and from about head high to overhead the stand the ocean and the importance of the then I go check the surf. If it is good, I go whole two weeks I was there. The best tides and conditions. Matt learned how to surf trips to Costa Rica I ever had were out and go back to work later. If it is no surf without a leash, so he was forced to about 4-5 years ago, when we got great good, I just go back to work and finish control his board, choose waves carefully things up. I then have the afternoons to do waves everywhere we went. This time, and learn how to swim. These are things because it wasn’t breaking anywhere else, errands, pick my son up from school and stuff like that. If the waves are really good, the line up was really crowded. I counted 98 people in the water one day. It’s kind of I might have to surf longer, but that’s the a bummer to travel 3,000 miles and have to beauty of working in the surf industry.” surf with a crowd. I can do that here at Time has moved on and indeed, along with home, except the water in Costa Rica is warm, clean and clear. Can’t complain too everyone else, Matt’s life has changed. When I first met him in the 80’s, Matt was much about that.

Three generations of Bettis men pg 20

OurWave Vol.2- Issue# 2- Apr/2004-May/2005

•

Q: Where is your favorite place to surf? A: Ollie’s in Costa Rica. It is just a perfect wave. I also enjoy surfing in Baja at my little hide-a -way. The waves aren’t always breaking, but it is nice to have a little place to go, to get away from the hustle and bustle of Southern California. The pace of life is way slower in Baja. It is peaceful, scenic and most of the time uncrowded. And I can ride my ATV. Q: Has the surfboard making business changed over the years? A: Actually, things really haven’t changed that much. I still shape blanks by hand and then they get sent off to the painter and the glasser. Surfboard making tends to go in cycles. When I first started shaping in the 70’s, twin fins were the popular board style. In the 80’s longboards were popular again and have remained so. In the 90’s, everyone wanted to be a ripper like Kelly Slater, so really thin, shorter boards became all the rage. And now in the 21st century, twin fins and fish boards are back in style. Epoxy boards have also become popular, but you don’t shape those by hand. Q: When you aren’t surfing and working, what do you like to do in your spare time? A: I like to watch NASCAR. I also like to ride go-carts and ride my ATV, in the desert or in Baja. Being a parent and a husband pretty much takes up most of my time. That’s why I need a vacation now and again, to keep my sanity. Many of you know my wife Biz and she is crazy enough for the whole family. We enjoy spending time together at our place in Baja, riding waves and ATV’s. I am teaching my son Shane to ride an ATV and he also is involved in soccer and baseball. Shane goes to the beach a lot with us, but I don’t want to push him into surfing. It has to be something that he wants to do. He likes to ride waves on his body board now and if he expresses an interest, then I will definitely teach him the ropes, just like my dad taught me.

photos- Robin Hoyland

•

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Get your VW worked on be Debbie at Westcoast VW. Music Scene

Daize Shayne: World Champion Surfer Spreads Her Wings Interview by Shawn Perry

wo-time World Longboard Surfing champion Daize Shayne has been living and working in Southern California for nearly a year now. Unfortunately, she doesn’t spend as much time at the beach as you would think. She might occasionally stop over at lower Trestles to get in a couple of sets, but for the most part, she’s almost become - dare I say - a land lubber. For one, she works as a model, ESPN emcee, and mentor to underprivileged kids. That alone will keep you above water for weeks. However, her main focus of late has been on music. The first place winner at both the 1999 Quicksilver Winter Classic and 2003 Converse/Longboard Magazine Nose Riding Championship (not to mention a 2003 finalist as Action Girl of the Year) is recording her first album. For someone with such high ambitions, it seems like a natural progression. After all, Daize has been singing and playing guitar as long as she’s been surfing. And apparently shifting gears doesn’t seem to be a problem for her.

Another stoked reader - Costa Mesa local - Daize Shayne -photo S. Perry

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Putting the album together has been an experience Daize seems to relish. “We figured out what best suited my lifestyle,” she says. Many of the tunes certainly pay testament to that lifestyle, especially surfing.

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“We actually got Aamion in the studio to sing on ‘Smoke On The Water,’” she says. “If you listen, he has a really low voice.” Once the album is complete, Daize has plans to put a band together and hit the road. It certainly wouldn’t be the first time as she has been gigging steadily for the last few months. A highlight was her appearance last summer at the National Republican Convention in New York City. Daize, Ken and her band climbed on the stage at Madison Square Garden and played “I’ve Got The Music In Me” before a packed house of delegates, members of the press, foreign dignitaries, and honored guests. She has fond memories of the evening. “It was fun to see all these people get loose.”

I ask Daize if she considers herself a political person and she’s quick with an answer. “I’m the kind of person who really wants to “No, definitely not. But I believe in this prepare,” Daize tells me in between takes at country and I stand up for this country.” the recording studio. “I believe in order to Daize’s main agenda at the convention was perform, you have to be prepared. With to encourage young people to get out and competitive surfing, I’ve kind of put it to the side while we get the record done and I vote, regardless of the political lines. “I wasn’t saying, ‘you have to spend 12 hours a day on be a Republican’ or ‘you music.” have to be a Democrat.’ I She tosses back her was just saying you should blonde locks and assures vote.” me. “I still surf during my Aside from playing out and lunch break.” about, Daize has participated Daize’s debut album is set in other high profile events for a late spring release. to promote her music career. She and producer/manager This past January, she was Ken Tamplin have featured on L.A. radio recorded over a dozen station Arrow 93.1 during songs. As it stands, they a Tsunami relief fund. Daize have a powerful mix of made a pledge and Arrow original and cover tracks played her song “Can’t to fill the record. Have Just A Little.” When I first hear Daize’s music, I notice an In addition, Daize appeared as a presenter old-school approach with a refreshing edge, at this year’s Satellite and Pollstar Awards a mild crunch, and a thumping drive - char- ceremonies. As if that wasn’t enough, acteristics long absent from the bulk of new she’s a working actress who has been music invading our air space these days. featured in commercials for Jack In The “There’s no more of that live feel to music Box, Dr. Pepper and Vans Shoes. Daize anymore,” she explains. “It’s really pop in also snagged a role in the upcoming film, a can.” “The Still Life.” Daize acknowledges a wide range of influences — from Ella Fitzgerald to Metallica to friend and fellow surfer/musician Jack Johnson. However, assessing her own music is a little closer to the bone. “I’ve heard Alanis Morissette, Led Zeppelin, AC/DC. That’s where we’re kind of coming from.”

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her and her husband, pro surfer and Pipeline specialist Aamion Goodwin. The idea is that when Daize is on the screen, you’ll hear “Slow Ride,” and when Aamion is on the screen, you’ll hear “Smoke On The Water.”

She plays me “Live Your Dreams,” one of several songs she co-wrote with Ken, and declares: “That’s my life in a nutshell. I’m totally thinking about surfing. I’m thinking about that first wave I caught and how it changed my life.” Another track that embodies her surfing life is an alternating medley of “Slow Ride” and “Smoke On The Water.” Daize explains that the piece was conceived with a video in mind. It will feature surfing footage of

Yet, the Hawaii native’s commitment to surfing has hardly diminished. Before the cameras, Daize successfully taught KTTV Channel 11 news anchor John Beard how to surf. Two 30-minute segments of the surfing lesson are scheduled to air in May. Daize hasn’t turned her back on competitive surfing either. As she sees it, it wouldn’t be very difficult for her to get ready to compete. “It would take me probably two weeks of surfing every day, four hours a day to be on my game again.” With so much of her plate, I wonder if Daize ever has a moment to just kick back and relax. She takes a breath and nods. “You have to make time. I watch TV and movies.” She smiles and then continues. “Of course, I also go to the beach and go surfing.”

OurWave Vol.2- Issue# 2- Apr/2005-May/2005

pg 21

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OurWave Vol.2- Issue# 2- Apr/2004-May/2005

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Are you enjoying this Paper? Any ideas for improvement? Let us know. Crossword answers from last our last edition 2/05—03/05

C r o s s wo r d 1

50. Hello or goodbye in Hawaii. 52. Start it again. 54. Late Night TV host. 55. Animal rights org.

15 19

18 23

25 29

A L

41 46

48 51

Across: 1. Da Cat of Malibu 2. Before a Particular Event 8. Seal Beach local or fake hair 11. Omit or correct a text, in order to improve 12. Gatos or Lobos precursor 13. Surfing Organization of FL, NC, or RI 14. Rubber shirt or ___ suit. 15. Tavarua is one of the world’s most famous surf _____. 17. Addams Family cousin. 18. Baseball’s error abbv. 19. Goes with the good and the bad. 21. In addition to. 23. Tom Morey Alias 24. Best report card grade. 25. Simile friend of like.

26. St., Rd., ___, Blvd. 27. Cleaver brother or less than perfect shape. 30. Aussie surf pioneer sharing same first name as Townend. 33. Niño or Cid starter. 34. Black in Biarritz. 35. I in Rio or Sao Paulo. 36. Longboarder Stone or bodyboarder Severson. 38. Cereal grains. 39. Simpson’s liquor store owner. 40. Adam and _____. 41. Toys ___ Us. 42. Put in mail. 44. Alphabetically G, ___, I 45. Fix and make useful. 48. San Clemente surf cinematographer Jeff. 49. George Harrison song: ____, Me, Mine.

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1. Little man on wheels. 2. Poem or sonnet. 3. Kava ceremony or waxing up before session. 4. Breakfast ___ Tiffany’s 5. West Side Story or The Lion King. (EG.) 6. CD ____. 7. 6th sense. 8. 70’s surf film, ____ Got Surf 9. Egyptian Goddess was a Nile River local. 10. #1 across in Mundaca, Spain 15. Ali or Cassius ____. 16. Keep it to enjoy. 20. Uluwatu’s counterpart Reef, ____ Land. 22. Herbie Fletcher movie Locale, St. ___, Reunion Island. 26. To wake up in a past tense. 28. Take two of theses if your in pain and want to surf all day. 29. Clippers or Lakers. 30. Polka ____. 31. Slangy positive reply. 32. David of Huntington Beach. 34. North America (abbv.) 37. Country in Himalayas. 38. Constellation name. 39. Musically, what you carry. 43. Tidal condition. 46. Pub pint. 47. Formerly Zimbabwe. (abbv.) 51. 1st letter of all 26. 53. 80’s Sci-Fi film 54. ___ Bay, South Africa

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OurWave Vol.2- Issue# 2- Apr/2004-May/2005

It is here that we are developing a picturesque residential community complete with all the essential accommodations and amenities, including a full range of retail facilities, shopping centers, restaurants, financial, medical and legal services, real estate offices, and more. Come join us at Marbella, where indulging in your favorite past time while enjoying the sunset is a way of life.