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INSIDE
Late winter through spring saw many good days. Check out Eddy's and Mark's photos for purchase online at www.eppicsurf.com/ourwave. You never know, there could be one of you!
ASK A SURFER…
Longboards VS. Shortboards
I
n the ocean, all is not fair. There are people of all different levels and abilities riding all different types and sizes of apparatuses. In attempt to make some sort of peace of this potential madness, an understanding must be reached. First, let us start off with a reality check: We all want to get waves, but if you want respect out there, you need to earn it. This is something you can NOT demand. Know and acknowledge when you are wrong and if you did not know you were in the wrong, try and be sympathetic to someone who may tell you about it even if they have a bit of anger in their voice. Remember, certain situations are seriously dangerous and this we need to understand when someone is teaching us a verbal lesson. Second, play fair and respect those around you. Reality check #2: A big board means you have an advantage. One, you can paddle out quicker on the small days. Two, while looking for the next wave, your range and ability to position yourself to a wave that is coming is much larger. Three, your window for catching a wave is much bigger. A larger planing area allows you to reach planing speed more easily hence your window for catching is less critical. Some people ride boards that are designed to capitalize on this fact alone or simply because their paddling abilities or endurances are limited. If this was everyone’s goal we would all be riding jet skis, huge 12 foot boards, or
This issue's Our Wave Grom has to go to Hunter Barrett, taking the win in his division with an impressive head dip. Way to go Hunter! It was a close battle until the last couple of minutes when Hunter made it clear who was going to win. Our Wave wishes to extend the stoke for all parents by offering up this space and other space in the paper to show your kid's surfing photos. Send in photos of your little grom for us to consider putting on the cover or even as a short feature if you have a story to go with it. Send them to:
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even kayaks. So longboarders, keep this in mind and do not use it to your advantage by hogging every wave that comes your way, or competing for every wave that someone else is potentially in a better spot for. Wave knowledge is what should determine your decision. If you are in the right place at the right time, go for it! Third, shortboarding is still a desired way to ride a wave. Some individuals still want to turn and perform on a shorty. With this, if you are a longboarder, keep in mind that short boards paddle slower as you are more in the water as opposed to on top of it. The window is much smaller, as you need the wave and its face to have enough steepness to allow you to catch it. With this, positioning is much more critical. Longboarders: you know when you are in the right spot and more importantly, when you are not. You also know when you are over paddling your big board into a wave and using it as a crutch to get into a wave that probably should no longer be yours. If there is a shortboarder sitting in the ideal spot, even though you can muscle in, let them have it. Yet, if you are a sole pelican ready for flight, by all means, take it. But this means you have done your homework first, you looked ahead and then you looked left, then right and it is clear to go. Finally, if you just caught one from the last set, as the next one is coming, do not swing around and go on someone that was waiting. In conclusion; awareness is the key for both
2008 Surfline Seal Beach Menehune Champion
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Jeremy Wright Ron Ziebell Shane Jones Surfer's Art Rich Payne/FoamEZ Costa Rica trip Our Wave Info and Surf Dudes
SUPER STOKED
My name is Melissa. We met in the water a few months ago on Sheila’s bday. I’m her trainer and surfer friend. I’m also in last issue of Our Wave as an unidentified at Bolsa. Thanks, super stoked :-) Any ways, I am a personal trainer and would
cultures, short and long. It should be all about the ride, not about what the crowd dictates. But with continuous learning and verbal education in the water or through our column (hint hint), the crowds can become so cool that we, for the most
Thanks for joining in, Melissa. Raposa Check outPHOTO: Melissa'sEddy ad on page 12
part, could all ride what we wanted and get along. Just imagine… GOT A GRIPE? Ask Just a Signed, Surfer to write about your Just a Surfer complaints or respond to this one. Go to page 15 for info.
Seal Beach Su r f l i n e Co n t e s t Visit Our Wave’s web site for more coverage on the contest, photos, and results. We know its old news but if you haven't noticed, no one else covered the contest other than the write up we did on Surfline. Join the Our Wave myspace network to get weekly postings about local surfing news, local surf art, as well as other local news, events and photos of Our Wave locals.
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M.C. Chad Wells showing his local knowledge
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like to place an ad in the paper. Thank you very much, Melissa :-)
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Our Wave Vol.5- Issue# 2 - JU N E /2008-A U G/2008
Pa ge 2
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EVEN IF IT'S NOT YOURS.
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Jeremy Wright
Photos by Matt Ryan
By: Jeanette Nguyen
Y
ou are what you read. For pro bodyboarder Jeremy Wright, it’s titles like Winning Every Day, Nothing Great Is Easy and Living Under God lining the walls of his cozy Long Beach residence. “I read all these books to motivate me,” he says, giving a tour of his bedroom. “Everyone told me I’d never make it, but I’m making it!” Last year alone, Wright made top 10 in the U.S. Surf Team, inked a sponsorship deal with Wave Rebel bodyboards and trekked to the Philippines for a Boogie Nation video shoot. Prior to this interview, he won First Place Pro Open at Imperial Beach. A hefty three by two paycheck from yesterday’s victory sits proudly on his green comforter cover. “I’m 21 now, and they said I was a late bloomer. They told me that when I started at 15 and was winning, “ Wright remembers. “It’s cool because I’m like that kid that came out of nowhere. The titles I won in such a short amount of time have been sweet.” Not bad for a kid who started bodyboarding end of high school freshman year and advanced to pro in 2006 when he won the California Tour. These days, Wright lives out of a suitcase eight months out of the year, traveling to Puerto, Hawaii, Australia and various other surf destinations. He is most determined to win Hawaii’s Pipeline, and has been training vigorously. “That’s pretty much where careers are made or ended,” he reveals. “I spent months there just trying to get used to the waves. My motivation is to be very fit.” He has recently taken up Yoga for increased flexibility and is in the process of signing up for acrobatics to better maneuver the foam pits with 360s, reverses and double back flips. Wright also surfs five hours a day, eight hours if the swells are good. In addition, he cross trains, plays tennis and avidly rides his bicycle. “I don’t really go out. I take bodyboarding pretty seriously,” he says. Wright is constantly pushing the boundaries and is always on a quest to ride bigger waves, no matter how dangerous. “I’ve put myself into some scary situations, “ he recalls. “Two years ago, I blacked out. The wave just pounded me. The coral reefs are like cement, and I almost died twice now. One of my friends last week just broke his neck in South Africa. But I have this drive in me, like, ‘I’ve got to get a bigger wave!’” Wright’s aspiration is to lead a career similar to Australia’s top bodyboarder Damien King, who has garnered book deal, produced documentary DVDs and was offered a one million dollar contract. Furthermore, he looks up to mentor/renowned bodyboarder Giovanni Greco, former World Tour champion Jeff Hubbard and Tony Dungy, the first African American head coach to win the Superbowl when the Indianapolis Colts defeated the Chicago Bears in 2007. However, Wright’s main influence is the positivity he finds in the teachings of Jesus Christ. “I want to be a good witness, with the way I win or lose. So many guys at the beach just punch their board,“ he says with a laugh. “They blame it on their board! Like, how old are you? 10? If I win or lose, I wanna be amped cause I’m at the beach. How cool is that? I also make sure I don’t get pissed. Sometimes it’s hard, but I have to tell myself, ‘It’s all good! I did my best.’” Wright is also active with charity, recently giving free bodyboarding lessons to 70 kids at an event organized by The Surfrider Foundation, and many of his trophies are donated to local schools. Though bodyboarding isn’t quite as mainstream as surfing, Wright is looking forward to introducing the sport to a wider audience.” I wanna
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RON DOG S Photos and story by Bryan Pezman
win these events,“ he confidently says. “I wanna be the first California bodyboarder ever. In California, they’ve had guys do well, but no one’s won the World Tour, World Title, Pipe Title or anything. I want to make it huge.” Who better to put bodyboarding on the map than someone who lives and breathes it? “That’s all I do 24/7,” he says, with a smile. “It’s addicting.” Jeremy Wright is sponsored by Wave Rebel bodyboards, Alternative Surf, Viper Fins, Cobian Sandals, Kreed Sunglasses, Bullys Accessories, Embrace Apparel, and Zinka Sunscreen. For more information visit Jeremy Wright’s official website at www.4JeremyWright.com. Ron Ziebell
ometimes in the surfing world, our perspectives of some individuals are built up so much, that we forget that behind their perceived personas, there is a completely different person underneath it all, and on one bad day this past June, I witnessed such an event. It all began early on a Thursday morning at the Wedge, under good offshore winds, glassy waves and solid South Swell. Naturally, the pecking order that day was present despite a very packed lineup. On top of that list was Chad Barba. The guru of California bodyboarding, as intimidating as ever, was in full-on patrol mode that morning, barking, dominating, and absolutely killing every wave he fought for. Of course, anyone who has ever had a run-in with Barba can tell you, his presence in the water can best be described as pit-bull tactics. Cut off Barba? Prepare thyself for the wrath. On this particularly crowded morning, we were all witness to just that. Some barney, who had been back-peddling everyone in the lineup, decided to snake Barba near the side-wave section. As they both washed up near the end section near Cylinders, I watched as Barba immediately went into that intimidation mode that has become very familiar at The Wedge. Its something I’ve grown accustomed to seeing. Barba almost looks like a barracuda swimming towards his prey after an incident in the water and in this case, I know the kook who snaked him is in for a heap of trouble. Barba, a dominating figure both figuratively and physically, towers over the guy, says some choice words and proceeds to throw the dude’s board down the beach. Barba then gets right back in the water, laying down that threatening stink-eye in the offenders direction, laying a warning that the barney’s day is through in the water. However, the kook, obviously oblivious to Barba’s threats, doesn’t care and proceeds to head in the direction of the jetty to get back in the lineup. Barba then paddles at lightning speed to further let this guy know that he is not welcome back. The guy finally gets the message and finally heads out on the walk of shame. Barba is a legend in the sport. His skills and are some of the best ever seen in bodyboarding. Had he still been visible in the pro scene today, I have no doubts that he’d be a Mike Stewart type of ambassador here in California. But somewhere in the breakdown of bodyboarding as a viable commercial product in the ‘90’s, Barba became a recluse and an unknown quantity in person. Stories of Barba vary, but those who know him best will tell you that you may run into a temperamental Barba, a religious Barba, or a quiet and soft-spoke Barba. Sometimes all at once. The next day, I hoped to score another good session at Wedge. However, from the moment I hit the Balboa peninsula, I knew it was going to be a tough outing. The fog was thick at 40th street, and I knew it was going to be just as bad at Wedge. Sure enough the fog was really heavy to the point where you couldn't see the lineup. So much for shooting today. I decided to hang back with the boys at the jetty and enjoy the waves for a change. My friend Ron Ziebell, owner of Alternative Surf Shop, showed up at about 7:30am and was all smiles. I’ll never forget watching as he paddled out that morning and dominated on every wave he got. You could just tell he was in great form that morning. Hitting backdoor sections, getting tubed and even barking a bit in the lineup. Classic Rondog. He was great even in less than perfect conditions. Nearing the end of the session, Ron’s final wave that day was seemingly unexceptional. The wave he went on seemed like any other head high set. continued on page 6
Photo by Matt Ryan
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Our Wave Vol.5- Issue# 2 - JU N E /2008-JU LY /2008
Pa ge 4
Did you find yourself or your buddy in this paper listed as unidentified?
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Seal Beach
Photos by Eddy Raposa mid Jan/08
Sometimes when you come to Seal it can be a picture perfect day with no one out. But odds are when you show up, there will be 1,500 of your best friends already there.
Unidentified finding plenty of green room
Unidentified snapping
Troy Techno switching it up.
Scotty pulling out all the stops.
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Dillon with a clean little nugget
Joel Buonassissi
Unidentified riding a Stamps board on South Side.
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Unidentified
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Our Wave Vol.5- Issue# 2 - JU N E /2008-JU LY /2008
Page 5
w w w. o u r w a v e n e w s p a p e r. c o m
Pa ge 6 Brad Mebust
Joe Whitmore
RON DOG continued from page 3
He went lefts, just a bit beyond the pit and side-wave on a dropknee section. Barba was behind him on the wave when suddenly, the wave sectioned out faster and more shallow than usual, sending Ron flying forward. The remaining wave wall crashed into Ron made him pearl forward and eventually land on his tailbone where the wave folded him over. It crushed his vertebrae near the middle of his back and incapacitated his entire lower body. What happened next was a mix of chaos and heroic actions that helped save Ron’s life. Immediately after Ron bobbed up out of the water, I watched as he seemingly flailed around looking distracted. From my perspective, it looked like he was about to get into an argument with somebody near him. Immediately my friends and I stood up and watch as this person who Ron is yelling at, begins madly paddling to Ron’s vicinity. Before we knew it, we could see everyone in the lineup start making their way over to the area just before Cylinders to get a closer look. As I continue walking up, I see that this person is dunking and holding onto Ron in the water. Or at least that’s what it seems. Well, my only thought was of anger. Whoever this person was, how dare they attack someone so well respected at this spot. My mind went numb as I start running towards the break. By now, nearly everybody in the water is paddling over that way too, at a furious pace. What happened next rocked me, and I can still see it in my mind clearly as ever. I was still halfway between the jetty and Cylinders at this point, and I was sure I was seeing Rondog getting a beat down. My legs are moving on their own practically as I race forward, when suddenly, I hear Ron screaming in pain. From that moment on, it was like slow-motion. It hadn’t even occurred to me until that very moment that others were running that direction too and were all frantically grabbing phones to call 911. And then, like a brick to my head, it hit me. Ron was seriously hurt and not being attacked. I went spiraling into a near panic state. I had gone from rage to panic in a split second. “Oh my God, what’s happened to Ron?” As my mind processed what I was seeing, still running forward, I realize that he was yelling out, “I cant feel my
legs! I cant feel my legs!” Sheer terror hits me. kept Ron from further injury as he carried him I see someone already calling 911 and I scream to shore. After Ron was ambulatory, it was a mad rush out to them, “Tell them its a paralysis injury!” and to contact his wife and get to the hospital. sprint forward. Meanwhile in the water, this mysterious From there, it was a long and hard day as we person is struggling to hold onto Ron and keep tried our best to support Ron’s family and him from drowning. By sheer luck, there just replayed the events of the morning. As the day happened to be some sticks out at Cylinders that went on, the news seemed to get worse. First morning. They immediately give one of their came the news that Ron’s back was crushed and boards to the guys in the water to stabilize Ron that he would have to undergo surgery. Then so that they can carry him onto the berm above came the devastating news that the doctors Cylinders, and carefully set him down. The mystery believed that Ron would never walk again. Upon hearing that news, I needed to take person continues hovering up high near Ron’s head, making sure to keep him stable. We all some time out, so I drove back to the Wedge. As I watched in horror as Ron screams in agony say- pulled up, I saw Barba getting out of his truck. He ing that he cant feel his legs. I continue to observe was still that same intimidating, omnipresent man intently as everyone circles Ron, praying for any to me as I walked by him, but I knew I had to say movement from his legs. Nothing. My heart sinks. something to him. So I turned around and for the Meanwhile, we hear the ambulance coming. I first time in the many years that I’ve been shooting glance across the surreal scene as all my friends and hanging around at the Wedge, I formally talk have come out of the water, some still leaving to Chad Barba for the first time. “Thank you for saving my good friend Ron’s their boards and gear in the water, caring more for Ron. At that moment, I’m finding myself star- life, you are a hero in my eyes and I’ll always ing at this mysterious person whom I thought was remember your actions today.” I proceeded to initially fighting Ron in the water. It finally dawned on me. It was Barba. I watch Barba as he protects Ron’s head, gently stabilizing Ron’s neck and never leaving his side until the paramedics force him to move to the side. Watching Barba in the distance, I know this isn't the same man who has created the strong and dominating aura around his persona over the years. This is a man, who behind that shell, was a real person for the first time to me. Not some intimidating, hell bent on scaring everyone who even dares to talk to him type of madman. Its at that moment, I realize, he is a true hero on this day. He kept Ron from drowning. He is the one who kept Ron stable and he Photo by Bryan Pezman is the one who probably
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shake his hand and thank him again and give him a quick update on Ron’s condition. He seemed genuinely sincere when he stated that he needed a moment to soak that in. I don't think he, until that moment, had realized his actions were something that a hero does. As I walked away, I could tell, that he really was stunned. I felt better and walked away, knowing that even if I never talk to him again, that for a brief moment, I was able to see beyond who Chad Barba, omnipresent intimidator of the Wedge is, and see a person who was that day. A hero. The days after Ron’s accident were filled with much better news. Ron’s spine, although being damaged, is on the mend after a successful surgery. His spinal cord had no apparent damage to the surface and he is slowing starting to feel movement in both legs. He will have a long recovery ahead of him but hopefully in time he will be able to walk and surf again. And maybe get into a barking match with the kooks for old times sake. Mahalo, -Pez
Ron Ziebell at the Wedge
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Page 7
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Our Wave Vol.5- Issue# 2 - JU N E /2008-JU LY /2008
Pa ge 8
Do your part and help get trash in the trash can.
Keep our beaches clean!
Shane Jones
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Photos by Eddy Raposa
Written by Nina Vafaie
S
hane Jones first stood up on a surfboard at Seal Beach on a 5’ Midget Smith Twinzer at the young age of five. That was 1986. Since then, Shane has honed his surfing skills on waves along the California coast from Santa Barbara to San Diego, as well as Hawaii, Costa Rica and New Zealand. Perhaps surfing is encoded into his DNA. Shane’s dad, Tony Jones, owner of Coral Reef Wetsuits, is a solid surfer with a colorful surf history of his own. Moving to Santa Monica from Ireland in the late 50’s, Tony readily immersed himself in the surf culture of Southern California. As a kid, Tony was a regular at Malibu, borrowing boards from guys on the beach and learning under the tutelage of Tony Jones sewing together a suit for another happy costumer Mickey Dora and others. He continued to perfect his surfing skills while logging water time with the likes of Mickey Munoz and other influential surfers of the time. Because of Tony’s early connections within the surf community, Shane frequently rubbed elbows with some of surfing’s greats. However, when asked who was most influential to his surfing, Shane says it was surfing his home break of Bolsa Chica with his dad and the Coral Reef team riders, Mark Stewart, Tim Whalen and Guy Takayama, that had the biggest impact on him. He also admired the wave riding skills of Mike Guerrero and Brian (aka Loafer) Anderson. Drawing inspiration from each of these individuals, Shane has developed a unique style of his own. And although Shane has had opportunities to travel to other more exotic locales around the world, and his surfing repertoire expanded because of these experiences, Bolsa Chica was an ideal haven that allowed Shane to perfect his surfing talent while helping his dad run his non-corporate business, Coral Reef Wetsuits. Started in 1985, Coral Reef Wetsuits has been making custom wetsuits for over 20 years. Making quality wetsuits designed and fitted to the individual was an idea started by Tony Jones and passed along to Shane, who in addition to being Manager of Coral Reef Wetsuits, designs, custom fits and alters, as well as markets, the wetsuits. As busy as he is at work, Shane also manages to surf a few times a week, one of the perks of having a surfer dad/boss who he can trade off morning shifts with. It is a pretty enviable life, but Shane doesn’t take any of it for granted. He’s had his obstacles too. After high school, a pre-existing intestinal condition worsened into a serious medical situation that required three blood transfusions over a course of three years. This also meant lots of time out of the water. Focusing on getting back into the water and back to what he loves is what got Shane through this difficult time. Growing up surfing and hanging out and working at his dad’s shop since he was five years old, it is no wonder surfing is such an integral part of Shane’s life. Shane embodies the soul of a true surfer. His whole life revolves around surfing and every element of the culture. From his early start as a grom to being a talented surfer in his own right Shane has fully embraced the surfing lifestyle. He started a surf club at his high school, he travels the world to surf, he is an active member of the Long Beach Surf Team. Shane infuses surfing into every aspect of his life; it’s his recreation, it’s his career, it’s his peace of mind. Editors note: I recently went in to get a suit made for me. After my 3rd $250+ suit off the rack that only lasted one season, I had to jump at some advice that I kept hearing over the last decade. I kept meeting people in these Coral Reef wetsuits that when I asked about their suit, they usually always say, “I’ve had this suit for many years and its still works great! My best suit purchase ever. You should go in and have one custom made for you.” I am more than stoked to keep passing on that same advice.
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Surfers Art
I
used to hang around a bunch of guys in high school that surfed and I would always make fun of them because at the time I didn’t surf and all that mattered to me was motocross! Years later I’m completely wrapped up in surfing, like the rest of us, I’m always trying to find time to squeeze in another surf! I still ride and race motocross, but surfing is something completely different, it consumes you. The first few boards that I had were shaped by Mike Dawson; and I think that because I was often able to hang out in his shaping room that it gave me the bug to shape my own boards. I wouldn’t call myself a true shaper, but I definitely enjoy riding my own equipment. Although I have
Art On Board
featured artist:
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Greg Landers
I enjoy not fitting in, not being part of the mold, not riding plain white boards, not being part of a certain crowd, and most importantly, just having fun. Even though I’ve been tied up with school and work lately, somehow I’ve found the time to do what I prefer: shape a new board for myself and one for my girlfriend. I should have them off to the glasser soon and covered in artwork shortly thereafter I’m bummed they didn’t make this article deadline, but that’s the price you pay Photo by Rory Bauman for paying your dues while you're young! always been into art and drawing, it wasn’t Thanks for taking the time to read this and I until I read an article on Drew Brophy that I fell hope to see you in the line up soon! in love with the idea of painting my own boards. I started out using only Posca Markers but now I’ll Greg Landers contact information: use darn near anything that won’t react with the Web: www.gLandArt.com resin. Painting my own boards sparked an interEmail: gLand@gLandArt.com est in just painting in general so I started painting canvases, skateboard decks, shoes, guitars, etc…. Photo by Jim Boswell jbactionphoto.com
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Our Wave Vol.5- Issue# 2 - JU N E /2008-JU LY /2008
Pa ge 10
Did you find yourself or your buddy in this paper listed as unidentified?
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RICH PAYNE
Writen by Tony Alvarado
Respect
photo by Robert O'Toole
Respect is the one thing you can't buy. Respect must be earned through your peers, friends and family, and through everyday life. Respect takes time. It takes trust and it takes loyalty. In 'our' small surfing world, the first person that comes to my mind when I think of respect is Richard Payne. RP's knowledge, passion and loyalty make RP one of the most respected surfers out there. He knows where to go and when to be there. I could be filming in P.V. and RP walks up saying how good Redondo Beach was. When Seal is firing, RP's on it. When I get up at 4:30 a.m. to surf River Jetties and it is still dark, foggy and misty, thinking I will be the first one out, I see RP shooting out of a barrel as I am paddling out. He is just always where it is good and he is always barreled. If any barrel develops at Huntington Beach Pier, RP will most likely be the one to grab it. Richard has the respect from the young Huntington Beach rippers to the older core guys and will always be the man. Written by Eddy Raposa
photo by Robert O'Toole Photo by Eddy Raposa
Photo by Eddy Raposa
Foam E-Z’s 15 Year Anniversary Party/Event
understanding as well as support in taking the mystery out of surfboard making.” (It was a celebration of surfboard building.) Giveaways were happening throughout the event. Many lucky winners received products such undreds of people turned out on the load of “seconds” (imperfect blanks) that they sold as entire surfboard building kits, surfboard blanks, sunny Saturday afternoon of May for a fraction of the cost. Marko EPS blanks dis- fin sets (provided by Future Fins and FCS), pads 31st to help Brad Nadell and the guys played some unusual Parabolic treats for people to and leashes (from Ocean Earth), even free board from Foam E-Z commemorate their 15th year of inquire about. Future and FCS had tents and were building classes from Cerritos College! business. Foam E-Z, a local small business, sells talking about their respective fin systems. One of During the party, guests were invited into the all of the materials you need to build your own the more interesting tents was that of Nine Lights warehouse to observe live demonstrations of a FuSurfboards. Here one could find a bevy of hand ture Fin Box install and a one hour glass job with surfboard. It was a surfboard building extravaganza. The built surfboards made of wood sandwiched around UV resin by Dave from Revchem Plastics. Eager event took place behind their shop in Westmin- an EPS core and glassed with epoxy resin. to learn people gathered around and were able to Also present were local shapers including the see and ask questions directly to the glasser of the ster, CA. Live music, food & drinks, giveaways, raffles, board building demos were all happening. legendary Rich Harbour as well as Matt Bettis and board. In addition, local shapers and many of Foam E-Z’s Jack Sykes (Line Up Surfboards). They offered vendors were present to answer questions and chat their experienced knowledge of the craft to up and coming shapers. about surfboard building. Terry Price, chairman of the Composites Guests were treated to pizza and sandwichILE es by Perry’s Pizza in Huntington Beach and Training Center at Cerritos College had this to MOB E FOR HOM E were able to enjoy live music by the infamous say, “We had so many individuals come by our L A S , ROOM display and thanked us for being there to help “Mc Murphy Music Factory”. 2 BED BATH E ON The scene included a variety of booths. Some them understand that if 13-year-old middle were vendors of Foam E-Z such as Sol Sunguard, school girl (Surfer Divas) could make a surfpassing out various free sunscreen products to board, that they certainly could take a stab at it. some lucky attendees. US Blanks brought a truck- We were also happy to help provide guidance and
H
ONE BLOCK FROM BEACONS BEACH
One of the highlights of the party was the final raffle which included a free board donated by Bettis and Aloha Glassing. Many guests also purchased raffle tickets, in order to win a hand shaped Stamps surfboard. All of the proceeds were donated to the Surf Rider Foundation. Congratulations to Woody Woodruff the winner and proud new owner of the Stamps Bonzer In these strange times that the US surfboard industry is facing, it was refreshing to see so many people learning the craft, sharing their ideas and experiences and enjoying themselves, Thanks Foam E-Z for a great party. A good time was had by all. Here’s to the next fifteen years of business.
NEWLY REMODELED AND FULLY FURNISHED.
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Huntington Beach
Photos by Eddy Raposa mid Jan/08
Some times when you come to Huntington it can be a picture perfect day with no one out. But odds are when you show up, there will be 1,500 of your best friends already there also.
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Ryan Sakal
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Our Wave Vol.5- Issue# 2 - JU N E /2008-JU LY /2008
Pa ge 12
Tons of photos on-line for viewing and for purchase. Go to the Our Wave
web site and follow the links.
w w w. o u r w a v e n e w s p a p e r. c o m Photos by Eddy Raposa
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Custom Handshaped Sur fboards
(562) 787-5156 Available at Aloha Glassing 6 4 5 1 I n d u s t r y Wa y, We s t m i n s t e r, c a , 9 2 6 8 3 Ph# 714-894-4455 Matt Bettis has 30 years of board building experience with 15 years a s R o b e r t A u g u s t P r o d u c t i o n S h a p e r. Aloha Glassing specializes in Resin Tints and Classic Style glassing
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Relaxed in Costa Rica
by Mark Lugenbuehl
T
Pho
to b
yM
L
he Sandpiper Inn in Playa Hermosa, Costa Rica, greeted me with fun, sun and adventure. For my fortieth birthday my wife told me I should go on a trip with my friends. That blew me away as the best gift EVER. I was so stoked that I could ML not plan my trip soon enough. Is 8 Photo by Photo by Jeff Lum Photo by Jeff Lum months in advance too much? Ph oto The thing is, I didn’t want to plan too much, by ML the hundreds who but I should have. I had ideas of what I wanted Photo by M L to do, but since I would be coordinating with 4 showed up to his memorial; and many more made friends I have never traveled with, it seemed easier to just let our adventure come to us. Go with the the flight to Costa Rica for a paddle out memorial in flow, as it were. We all had an idea about the waves there and front of where Davis had at spots near by, but since it was small we decided been working. Davis had to just hang out and enjoy relaxing for a couple of been in training to take over as chef for his father’s days. The Sandpiper Inn is run by local resident and hotel. I felt so heart struck at Greg’s loss, I business man, Greg Miller. Many Seal Beach residents know about Greg’s business, the Sandpiper almost cancelled my stay at his hotel, but that felt Bike Shop on Seal Beach Blvd., or know Greg per- like it might be a mistake as well. I could only hope sonally. Many locals may also know about the trag- that, if in any way, I could help out if needed. At the airport, Greg was gracious enough to ic loss of Greg’s son, Davis. An unexpected twist of fate had taken Davis this past March. His death pick us up in his Mercedes shuttle bus. He zoomed was felt by many in this community as attested by us two hours back to the hotel with a quick stop to look at the monster While we were at the Sandpiper, the waves out front would occa- crocs hanging out unsionally look just perfect long enough to get a good photo. I can der a bridge. I looked Photo by Jeff Lum down and wondered just imagine this place when it all comes together. if the crocs are ever thinking to themselves, duced us to his hotel manager, Aaron. The surf was “Come on, PLEASE! nothing to look at, so we took advantage of waitOut of the consistent ing for the tide to turn by figuring out our room stream of people com- arrangements, and grabbing our fist true delicious ing to see us, surely Costa Rican meal. The Sandpiper has a restaurant, one has GOT to fall in but as you can imagine, the hotel restaurant was in sooner of later.” Just a transition. Greg once again stepped in, and he then, I nearly dropped and Aaron pointed us in the right direction. Hermy camera off the mosa has a nice 2-mile stretch of plenty of hotels bridge. I’m sure a croc and restaurants to take care of you; plus a great would have eaten my little store a few blocks away from the Sandpiper, camera as an appetizer. perfect for all your other needs. Arriving at the After a fantastic lunch that I was so kindly hotel, we unloaded treated to by my friends in celebration of my birthmassive amounts of day, we returned to sleep off the travel grime. We luggage. Greg showed woke up a couple hours later and were greeted Photo by Jeff Lum us around and intro- with a better tide conditions and a little makeable
Illustration by Mark Lugenbuehl
shoulder on the waves out front. We headed straight to the shore and didn’t look back. As I surfed through a spectacular sunset on the best birthday I have ever had, in just one moment, I suddenly felt a most unusual breath go out; it felt as if all the stress of my life up to that moment suddenly rushed quickly out in that one breathe. I had never felt such a sudden release like that before. Totally relaxed, from then on, I felt like I just floated through the rest of my trip. I was going with the flow. I was amazed at the beauty of Costa Rica, from its land and seascapes to the people living the “Pura Vida,” pure life. It seemed that the breath I took earlier had slowed me down to the point where I was able to really take in all life has to offer. We relaxed, surfed, drank, ate, and were more than merry. continued on p/14
Sandpiper Inn Costa Rica owned by Greg Miller of Seal Beach’s Sandpiper Bike Shop – at your service for 25 years.
For more information, please call
(562) 594-6130 w w w. o u rwa v e n ews p ap er.com
visit our website at:
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Our Wave Vol.5- Issue# 2 - JU N E /2008-JU LY /2008
Pa ge 14 continued from p/13
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Just 1/10 th or less of the wave at Boca Baranca. A couple of days later, a swell Photo by ML did arrive. That morning, Greg drove us to a spot that had a kind of San’O set up. The swell had not really showed up so it was just a trip for getting wet, but I wondered how good it would be there when the swell does arrive. Later that day, we hiked around the nearby rocky point. It was full of these scurrying black crabs. It was an interesting hike but the heat was nearly too much to bear. On Aaron (r), the Sandpiper Inn's manager, will take care of you. our return we scattered a couple more crabs, then stopped at the first hotel we saw and enjoyed a nice lunch. We ate and refueled as we sat watching the swell arrive. Lunch and a good show. The swell was pumping, but they were all more or less, just close-out barrels. Still, a good show. The surf out front was not what we were looking for but was great entertainment. The next day we rented a car. Here is one lesson you must take Photo by Jeff Lum with you: Accept the insurance even if you think you are covered. What’s an extra $10 a day? (More and over again. Just remember you have to walk on that latter.) and carry your board back to the car. I did not think With our transportation now set, we were off I was going to make it. But, of course, I did. to catch a wave that was what we were all looking Our only bad turn was one we made trying to forward to: a goofy-footed long-boarder’s dream. get back to that spot that reminded me of San’O. It We went to a place called Bocca Baranca, a river was our last full day there and felt we had enough of mouth, point-break left; One of the longest in the Barranca. Driving ourselves there this time turned world. We were a bit late our first day there. The unlucky as I crashed into another car. That story wind and tide made it a bit difficult to paddle out can be found online on the Our Wave Myspace to, and I mean PADDLE. I thought my arms were blog. It’s a very interesting and rewarding story as going to fall off by the time I reached the point. we met some great characters that showed me how Only a small number of people were out both days, lucky we were (except for our cars and insurance) but because of its set up, it would not have mat- to literally run into these guys. The dealings with tered if it was more crowded. The wave was break- these locals made me find an even higher respect ing at 5 to 7 feet with a few larger waves coming for the people living the “Pura Vida.” through from time to time. It’s the strangest expeOver all, I can truly say that I had a great time. rience to catch a wave that just keeps building out Whether you plan out every minute of your trip or in front of you. Multiple sections just keep pop- just want to kick back and relax at a home base, I ping up for you to try a different turn. You have would highly recommend staying at the Sandpiper to remind yourself to kick out because you don’t Inn. You can not go wrong with staying there as want to have to paddle back too far. Even if you Greg and Aaron will go out of their way to help did listen to your plea to save your arms, or legs for you enjoy your stay in that matter, you kick out to only see the next per- Costa Rica. Having that fect wave firing down the line coming right at you. to count on made all the Turn and go, your mind yells at you, and you give difference for me and I in to another 100 yards of nose rides and turns only know it will for you. to find yourself even further away. The enjoyment of riding the wave outweighs the pain your arms feel as you push your self back up the point over
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photo submission. From: Kelley Hartwyk Subject: Here are the photos that I want to share with you
HUNTINGTON SURF AND SPORT JACKS KANVAS BY KATIN BRUCE JONES HARBOUR ZJ BOARDING HOUSE
A
ttached is a pic of Corey Hartwyk; he placed 5th on Sunday March 9, 2008 in the NSSA College Longboard State Championship. Corey went to Los Al were he surfed on the surf team, he now surfs for UC Santa Barbara were he is a senior. The UCSB team took 1st in the State Championship.
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SURF PHOTOGRAPHER FOR HIRE $35.00 per hour (2 hour minimum).
Congratulations Corey! Thanks for sharing about your son Kelly. You must be very proud.
Our Wave wishes to extend the stoke for all parents by offering up space in the this paper to show your kid's surfing photos. Send in photos of your little grom for us to consider putting on the cover or even running a short feature if you have a story to go with it. Send them to:
mark.ourwave@verizon.net
!
TIE-DOWN STRAPS TOUGHER TO CUT THAN SECURITY CABLES
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Price includes two 8x10 photos and a CD of all photos from your session. You can have pictures made into any size you choose.
Can’t afford it? Get a friend or two and split the cost.
Call Eddy @ 562-493-4849.
Pray for surf, for great pictures, pray for sun.
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A DAY AT THE BEACH
This paper is FREE! Distributing to the areas of Long Beach through Newport Beach.
Editors :
Mark Lugenbuehl Eddy Raposa
Photography:
Eddy Raposa Art Director: Mark Lugenbuehl Editing support: Nina Vafaie Michael Lugenbuehl John Ciccarelli
O u r Wa v e N e w s p a p e r 4 1 8 1 E . P a t e ro Wa y Long Beach, CA 90815
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Please keep it short and sweet. E-mail your surfboard classified to: mark.ourwave@verizon.net For Sale
*FOR SALE* 10ft. Seal Beach Surfshop surfboard, “Jack Haley”* Classic early 60’s! $1200. 714-848-3700 Beautiful Velzy wood grain surftech 10’ single fin. Like new. Surfed once. $750.00 email Mike at feltypga@aol.com
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Are you tired of the lack of respect or attitudes in the water? We are looking to open up the lines of communication with our local surf community. The attitude towards surfing and all that it represents towards all walks of life seems to be shifting. Something needs to be done to try and bring a sense of purity, honor and respect back to our local waters and the sport that we all so love and cherish. Got a gripe? Have a complaint? Got a question? Have a suggestion? Write to us via our website…www.ourwavenewspaper. com or respond on our myspace page blog at www.myspace.com/ourwave, or good old-fashioned snail mail…Our Wave Newspaper, 4181 E. Patero Way, Long Beach, CA 90815 Share your thoughts, your wishes, and/or your visions towards a better, more peaceful local surfing world.
We at Our Wave have made every reasonable effort to ensure that our business advertisers are reputable, honest, and trustworthy; and that the content of such advertisement is accurate. However, unless otherwise indicated, Our Wave, and or its subsidiaries, affiliates, or assigns are protected, without limitation from any and all liability pertaining to public utilization of advertised services as contained in said publication. Our Wave makes no representations or warranties with respect to advertisers and the services and or products referenced therein. Our Wave and its employees, agents, suppliers, and contractors shall in no event be liable for any claims, charges, contractor's damages, liabilities, losses, and or expenses of whatever nature, and howsoever arising, including without limitation any compensatory, incidental, direct, indirect, special, punitive, or consequential damages, loss of income or profit, loss of or damage to property, claims of third parties, or other losses of any kind of character.
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CALIFORNIA
Custom Surfboards b y Mike Dawson (562) 498-0821 mdsurfboards@aol.com
Available @
MIKE KILLEEN
562-924-7717 FAX 562-924-8984
Owner
St. Lic # 762475 BONDED INSURED FREE ESTIMATES
RESIDENTIAL COMMERCIAL INDUSTRIAL
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(562) 493-2098
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Our Wave Vol.5- Issue# 2 - JU N E /2008-JU LY /2008
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Pa ge 16
Photo by Eddy Raposa
Team rider Cyrus Sutton on the Nose Rider model
The Nose Rider The only choice for serious tip time. The Nose Rider is superb at what its name implies. With one of the more exaggerated concaves ever built, this board will simplify getting tip time like never before. But that is just the beginning because it catches waves very well, and it turns quite easily. This is your "take to the beach on an average day board" because surfing is supposed to be fun.
The best in classic and comtempary surfboards since 1959
Keep Our Wave rolling
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KEEP OUR WAVE ROLLING ALONG
Advertise in
OUR WAVE. Call for pricing (562) (562)
493-4849 858-2577
Or visit WWW.OURWAVENEWSPAPER.COM for pricing, sizes and specs
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