Earnshaw's | August 2012

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INFANTS’, GIRLS’ & BOYS’ WEAR REVIEW

AUGUST 201 2 $5.00

Splash

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Blu Pony

Vintage

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Beachwear, Casual Dresses and Accessories Resort 2012 & Spring Summer 2013 For East Coast wholesale inquires: Thread Showroom 34 W. 33rd Street #312 New York, NY 10001 212.801.2387 info@threadshowroom.com For West Coast wholesale inquires: Paperdoll Style 110 East 9th Street #A698 Los Angeles, CA 90079 212.629.9874 info@paperdollstyleshowroom.com www.stellacove.com

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ENK Children’s Club Booth #2913

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Noelle Heffernan Publisher Jennifer Cattaui ;Z_jeh _d 9^_[\ Nancy Campbell 9h[Wj_l[ :_h[Yjeh ;:?JEH?7B Angela Velasquez <Wi^_ed ;Z_jeh Lyndsay McGregor 7iieY_Wj[ ;Z_jeh Maria Bouselli 7ii_ijWdj ;Z_jeh Megan Fernandez ;Z_jeh_Wb ?dj[hd 9H;7J?L; Trevett McCandliss 7hj :_h[Yjeh Tim Jones I[d_eh :[i_]d[h 9EDJH?8KJEHI Michel Onofrio Ijob[ :_h[Yjeh 7:L;HJ?I?D= Caroline Diaco =hekf FkXb_i^[h Sarah Sutphin Broglie 7Zl[hj_i_d] CWdW][h Alex Marinacci 7YYekdj ;n[Ykj_l[ Jennifer Craig If[Y_Wb 7YYekdji CWdW][h Steven Hemingway 9bWii_\_[Z IWb[i 7:C?D?IJH7J?ED Laurie Guptill FheZkYj_ed CWdW][h Melanie Prescott 9_hYkbWj_ed CWdW][h Mike Hoff M[XcWij[h 9EDJ79J ?D<E Sales/Editorial Offices ), 9eef[h IgkWh[" *j^ \beeh D[m Oeha" DO '&&&) Tel: (646) 278-1550 <Wn0 ,*, (-.#'++) [Z_jeh_Wbh[gk[iji6 /j^h[WZi$Yec Circulation Office (' >_]^bWdZ 9_hYb[ D[[Z^Wc" C7 &(*/* Tel: (800) 964-5150 <Wn0 -.' *+)#/)./ Y_hYkbWj_ed6/j^h[WZi$Yec 9EHFEH7J; /J^h[WZi (,(&( :[jhe_j HeWZ" )&& M[ijbWa[" E> **'*+ Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis" 9^W_hcWd Lee Zapis" Fh[i_Z[dj Rich Bongorno" 9<E

AUG. 2012 FEATURES 28 Sweet Feet Jh[dZi WdZ j_fi \eh h[jW_b[hi beea_d] je WZZ i^e[i je j^[_h fheZkYj c_n$ 36

Made in Italy 9;E e\ F_jj_ ?ccW]_d[ HW\\W[bbe DWfeb[ed[ Y^Wji WXekj j^[ ]beXWb jhWZ[ i^em Xki_d[ii WdZ jh[dZi _d j^[ Y^_bZh[d i cWha[j$

40 Spring ’13 Trend Report: Italia IjhW_]^j \hec F_jj_" W beea Wj ckij#^Wl[ jh[dZi ^[Wj_d] kf h[jW_b$ 44

Temporary Treasure Fef#kf i^efi Wh[ Z[ h_][kh \eh iWllo h[jW_b[hi beea_d] je iWj_i\o Ykijec[hi d[[Zi \eh W ^WdZi#ed WdZ [nY_j_d] i^eff_d] [nf[h_[dY[$

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It’s the Holiday Season ;nf[hji e\\[h h[jW_b[hi j_fi ed ^em je ijWhj fbWdd_d] j^[_h m_dZemi \eh j^[ kfYec_d] ^eb_ZWo i[Wied$

FASHION 52 Mellow Yellow Ikd#a_ii[Z ^k[i WdZ h[jhe im_cm[Wh Wh[ Wbb j^[ hW][ \eh Ifh_d] Ê') X[WY^ Xkdd_[i$

12 14 16 18 20 22 26 62 68

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This page. Top, from left: Kate Mack swirl-print bikini; 405 South by Anita G. bikini; floral headpieces designed by Stacey Fitts for Floral Occasions. Cover. From left: Stella Cove one-piece swimsuit; To the 9's bikini, Bottleblonde Jewels by Alex Hillson bracelets. Photography by Rachel Bank

CORRECTION: On page 8 of EARNSHAW'S July issue, Mini ZZZ wholesale prices were listed at $24.95-$29.95. The correct prices are $12.50-$15.00. EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) Vol. 96 Issue 7. The business and fashion magazine of the children’s wear industry is published monthly by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10003. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2012 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

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Summer Lovin’

Swimwear is awash with retro prints for 2013.

EDITOR’S LETTER

WITH THE SUMMER in full swing, we jetted off to Malibu, CA, to unveil next year’s swimsuit collections. In “Mellow Yellow,� we celebrate the sun, the surf and the good times that the season brings. Designs had a distinctly retro vibe, captured by West Coast photographer Rachel Bank. And that’s not the only summer traveling our team has been doing. Our fashion editor hopped across the pond to Italy for Pitti Bimbo in June to suss out the latest in global fashion. In “Spring ’13 Trend Report: Italia,� she reveals what’s new and next in childrenswear, as previewed at the European trade show. We also take a deeper look into Pitti in “Made in Italy,� and chat with CEO of Pitti Immagine Raffaello Napoleone to find out more about the Pitti online trade show platform, how he puts together the extravagant show every year, and where the next global fashion opportunities lie. Our trend pages this month are dedicated to soft pastel green, a popular neutral for infants, and children’s rainwear that brightens stormy days. Speaking of trends, in “Temporary Treasure� we survey some stores that have jumped on the pop-up shop craze and learn how to make the best of a temporary space. And, to celebrate the start of the holiday season (for retailers) we

w w w. n y k i d s m a r k e t. n e t

A BIT OF HONEY ALI’S MARKET APPAMAN BISCOTTI/ KATE MACK CHARLIE ROCKET CURLY GIRLS ENEKO NY FLORENCE EISEMAN FLOWERS BY ZOE FRENCHIE MINI COUTURE KISSY KISSY KLEVER KIDS LC COLLECTIONS LTD LAURA DARE LE PASSAGE

delve into holiday windows in “It’s the Holiday Season� and get some tips from Fifth Avenue heavyweights like Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue on how to maximize a store window display. This month we also take a closer look at shoes in our special section “Sweet Feet.� We highlight the trends and break down how children’s boutiques can build and make the most out of a footwear section. Last, but certainly not least, we proudly release the Earnies voting ballot, with four deserving brands in each category that the retail community tapped as “best of.� Voting will take place this month, so please go to www.earnieawards.com and cast your votes. Congratulations to all, and see you at the shows!

JENNIFER CATTAUI jennifer.cattaui@9threads.com

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Market Week August 13 – 17th 2012 October 1 – 5th 2012

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talking points

Back-to-school sales set to rise 4 percent ShopperTrak predicts year-over-year national retail sales and foot traffic for this August’s back-to-school season will increase by 4 percent. The Chicagobased retail technology company measures foot traffic in more than 45,000 locations across 74 countries.

4%

PASSPORT TO PITTI A strong international contingent buoyed the atmosphere and sales at the 75th edition of Pitti Immagine Bimbo held in Florence, Italy, from June 28-30. Show officials report a 3-percent increase in foreign attendance with Russia being the most represented country (326 buyers), followed by Turkey, France, the U.S. and Japan. Given Italy’s unsettling eco-

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nomic situation, Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine, says it was no surprise the show saw an 18-percent decrease in Italian retailers, but that the global mix of buyers, many from markets that are new to children’s fashion where affluent classes are beginning to emerge, play a strategic part in the plans of the show’s 491 exhibitors.

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Pen Us In! Want to see us at the shows this month? Here are just a few dates you should work into your calendar.

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bPlaytime New York: Cocktails on Saturday, August 4, sponsored by Earnshaw’s, to celebrate the 5th edition of Playtime New York.

bENK: The final ballot of the Earnie Awards will be revealed at ENK. Visit our booth at the show on August 5-7, or go to www.earnieawards.com, to cast your vote before the August 30 deadline.

bKIDShow: Toast to KIDShow’s 10th anniversary at a cocktail hour sponsored by Earnshaw’s on Monday, August 20.

bNYIGF: Catch the Earnshaw’s sponsored snack break in the Baby & Child area on Sunday, August 19, from 4:00 to 5:00 p.m.

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fresh finds

Let’s Play Market!

Spanish brand Mayoral continues to reign on the U.S. market with the launch of Newborn Mayoral, applying its classic color palettes and stylish designs to apparel, sheets, duvets, blankets, cushions, baby bags, pacifier chains, bibs, bathrobes and more. As well as catering to sizes up to 12 months, the collection includes a line for preemies, with delicate and intricate garments in neutral color ways. Wholesale prices average $16 and shipping is included. Visit www.mayoral.com.

Inspired by the days when well-made and well-worn garments were the rule and not the exception, Loop Collection aims to stand the test of time with its line of knit sweaters and pants for boys and girls. Each Grandpa-worthy piece is designed and made in the U.S.A. using recycled cotton and sustainable wood buttons. Sizes range from 6 months to 5T and prices range from $22 to $48. Check out www.loopcollection.com.

Make your travel plans now to attend. Dallas Apparel & Accessories Market August 16-19, 2012 October 25-28, 2012

Portland, OR-based label Sock It To Me sizes down its hip hosiery to offer a line of colorful crew and knee-high socks in sizes from infant to junior. The collection comes in fun patterns like unicorns, ninjas and mustaches and is made from 75 percent cotton. Wholesale prices range from $3.25 to $9. Check out www. sockittomesocks.com.

dallasmarketcenter.com | 214.744.7444

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Kai Bean Kids is a Los Angeles-based clothing line for boys, combining contemporary menswear trends with laidback California cool. Spanning pants, hoodies and polo tees to thermals and long sleeves, the collection is made from the softest French terry, thermal waffle knit and combed ring spun jersey, and is available in sizes 6 months to 10 years. Wholesale prices range from $10 to $24. Visit www.kaibeankids.com.

Simple silhouettes in mostly plant-based fibers form the basis of Oxanna, a line of whimsical dresses, skirts, capris and blouses for girls sizes 4 to 7. Designed by Roxanne Quimby, founder of Burt’s Bees, the result is a charming collection of basics with one-of-a-kind vintage handwork trims taken from coasters, runners, pillowslip edging and the like. Wholesale prices range from $18 to $45. For more information, call (415) 509-1681.

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Hoping to charm children’s dreams, Sky Imagination bows a bright and stylish collection of clothing for tots up to 6 years. The prints and graphics created each season are inspired by a small storybook hangtag and the tales continue on the brand’s website where parents and kids can learn more about the seasonal characters. Butterflies and fairies abound for girls this spring, while aliens and rockets emblazon tees and pants for boys. Wholesale prices range from $10 to $16. Visit www.skyimagination.com.

For little ladies who eschew pants in favor of skirts and dresses, Luna Leggings is a line of footless and footed tights sized newborn to 8 years. Available in bright and colorful prints—some legwear even comes with attached tutus—the collection is made from organic cotton that’s ethically sourced in India. The eco-friendly Californiabased company also uses recycled packaging and paper products, soy-based inks and donates 10 percent of profits to a local Edible Schoolyard Project. Wholesale prices range from $15 to $18. Visit www.lunaleggings.com.

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hot properties

Beautiful Day in the Neighborhood

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NINE THINGS

Finn + Emma rattle

2

Fournier stuffed toy

3 Nanda Home alarm clock

5

Skip Hop backpack

6

Global Goods Partners purse

8

4

Oeuf shadow box

7

Tea Collection one-piece set

St. Jude Children’s Research Hospital teddy bear

9

Toms sneaker

GIFTS THAT GIVE BACK

Pay it forward with philanthropic presents whose proceeds profit those in need. BY LYNDSAY MCGREGOR

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For babies only

SnoPea logo and “tag line” are registered trademarks of SnoPea, Inc. © 2012 SnoPea, Inc.

Extraordinary garments for young sprouts! www.snopeawear.net

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ON TREND UNISEX

1

3

2

mixed print one-piece 2 Baby Soy knotted beanie 3 Kissy Kissy gingham bodysuit 4 Paty, Inc. seersucker romper 5 Elegant Baby blanket

4 5

PHOTOGRAPHER: TIM JONES. FASHION EDITOR: ANGELA VELASQUEZ.

MINTY FRESH 1 Little Giraffe

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ON TREND RAIN

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2

5

SPRING SHOWERS 1 Foxfire Kids alligator print coat 2 Crocs iridescent boot 3 Wippette Kids 3-D embellished jacket 4 rubber boot by Laura Ashley 5 Western Chief jacket with ruffle hem

4

PHOTOGRAPHER: TIM JONES. FASHION EDITOR: ANGELA VELASQUEZ.

3

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OCTOBER 21.22.23 2012

T H E JAV I T S C E N T E R

NEW YORK CITY . 11TH AVE @ 37TH STREET 9AM-6PM SUN & MON . 9AM-5PM TUES

R E TA I L E R / B U Y E R R E G I S T R AT I O N : W W W. E N K R E G I S T R AT I O N S . C O M WWW.ENKSHOWS.COM/CHILDRENSCLUB T. 2 1 2 . 7 5 9 . 8 0 5 5 F. 2 1 2 . 7 5 8 . 3 4 0 3

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SPOTLIGHT APPAREL

Samba Beat

Submarine shakes up swimwear with Brazilian flair.

Wholesale: $37-$42 Sizes: 2 to 16

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WHEN BRAZIL’S CRYSTAL blue water, thick green forests, vibrant flowers, exotic fruits and gift for exuberant festivals serve as the inspiration for your girls’ swimwear line, let’s just say you have plenty of gusto to keep your passion for design rolling. Since the launch of Submarine in 1993, founder and designer Deborah Soriano has kept a pulse on what little girls (and their parents) want while staying true to her Brazilian culture with her line of “trendy, not classic” embellished swimwear. Having worked in the clothing manufacturing industry in her native Brazil, Soriano knew she was hitting an untapped market in girls’ swimwear in the United States with her high octave prints and sophisticated cuts. “At the time, the category was really lacking fun, resort-style swimwear for girls. Everything was basic or sporty along the lines of Speedo,” she recalls. “There were no other companies bringing Brazilian flair to swim.” The initial line was a marriage of dueling aesthetics—trendy accents, but still basic, she describes. Today, Submarine has coined a signature look and is a go-to source for high-quality swimwear with flourishes of ruffles, handembroidered details, stone and crystal embellishments, and dazzling prints. Soriano says one of the biggest improvements made to the line was switching to digital printing. “We can print anything we wish and have exclusive designs. And the colors are just so much more vibrant,” she adds. The designer admits the poor economy forced her to change things up a bit and reorganize collections in order to find a place in shoppers’ budgets. “Our swimwear is more expensive and there are many people who will never look at swimwear as a luxury item, especially for kids. Parents might put more money into a dress,” she explains. Whereas some designers had to completely restructure (or even abandon) their brands, Soriano’s worldly approach to childrenswear formed a steady foundation. One design does not fit all, especially in girls’ swimwear, and Soriano faced fit challenges head on with a variety of swimsuit cuts and cover-ups. “Whether a style is successful or not depends on the territory,” she explains. Conservative areas of the country want suits with more coverage, such as tankinis. Anything goes in New York, where Submarine experiences its highest number of sales, but Soriano notes buyers share a common request for amped up style and flourish. Six years ago, Soriano introduced complementary sportswear that includes dresses, tunics and leggings. Today, the line is 80 percent swim and 20 percent sportswear (mostly leggings), but the cabana-ready styles offer retailers more merchandising possibilities and open the window for add-ons. Submarine’s key accounts include high-end boutiques, hotels and resorts. “Sportswear has been a great opportunity to reach out to new types of retailers because a lot of children’s boutiques are not interested in swimwear,” Soriano explains. For Spring ’13, buyers will see more animal prints, Asian-inspired florals and a mix of vibrant colors. Ruffles are taking center stage as well. In terms of silhouettes, Soriano says cutout one-pieces, which were strong in previous seasons, are giving way to the more traditional two-pieces. “The string bikini and triangle top will always be a best-seller. It offers what the fashion girls want, but it also fits and adjusts to all types of bodies,” she explains. —Angela Velasquez

7/19/12 4:48 PM


Sun Smart

Baby Banz’s high standards and UV protection band together to ensure kids’ beach time is fun and safe. IT STARTED IN 2001 with a pair of infant sunglasses, or “sunnies” as the Aussies call them. Durable and functional with a unique wrap around elastic strap and necessary UVA/UVB protected lenses, the shades were a jumping-off point for Baby Banz, the small Australian company that has exploded its global reach in recent years with protective apparel and all of the accoutrements needed for a safe and funfilled day at the beach. “In Australia it is not unheard of for newborns to wear sunglasses each time they are out,” explains Shari Murphy, the company’s U.S. brand and marketing manager. Down under, education on UV protection is high and products that claim to be protective are subject to many rigorous tests and regulations. “In the U.S. almost anyone can put a UV-protective label on their garment, but all of our products meet Australia’s standards and that is what makes the brand so unique in the U.S. market,” she adds. With more pediatricians talking to new parents about their baby’s sensitive skin and eyes, headline-making news about more stringent sunscreen regulations and mommy bloggers discussing ways to shield kids from the sun, Murphy says more American parents are starting to ask questions and pay closer attention to how they dress their children.

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Wholesale: Glasses $8.50 to $12.50 Swimwear $5 to $18

Today, Sizes: Baby Banz’s Newborn breadth of to 10 products span from beach tents and swim goggles to a full range of swimwear and accessories for infants up to size 10. Plans to expand those sizes further are in the works. Murphy notes the company has already made adjustments to suit its growing international clientele, such as offering U.S. retailers generous cuts. “Instead of sizes, we focus on measurements and make sure to clearly express our size charts on the labels,” she explains. Pink and blue are go-to color palettes, and as the line grows, more fashion-forward pieces like swim skirts complement one-piece suits, rash tops, board shorts and diaper covers. The company’s retail base is just as diverse—not only traditional boutiques, resorts and gift shops, but also hospitals and ophthalmologists scoop up the sunglasses. Likewise, Murphy adds, the company is doing more business with sport retailers, like surf and skate shops—evidence that even the most laidback consumers are starting to get serious about protective clothing. —A.V.

7/19/12 4:48 PM


If the Shoe Fits

IN FOCUS: SWEET FEET

BY MARIA BOUSELLI

Store owners give advice to retailers on how to integrate footwear into their product mix.

2 8 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C š 7 K = K I J ( & ' (

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t’s a quandary many retailers face— to shoe or not to shoe? Children’s footwear makes up more than 14 percent of total yearly revenue for the shoe industry, according to Matthew Priest, president of the Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America (FDRA). Priest says children’s footwear is an important part of the industry because “once or twice a month, children need to buy shoes, so you’re building a relationship and interacting more frequently with customers.” Nate Herman, vice president for international trade and footwear lead at the American Apparel and Footwear Association (AAFA), agrees: “You can make lifelong, loyal customers to your brand so it’s important to get them to like your shoes. And if they like the store where they buy the shoes, [customers] get excited about coming back.” ! While introducing shoes to your store’s selection may sound like a no-brainer, there are several factors to consider: store space, neighborhood need, what brands to order and how to fit a child’s foot. Roz Viemester, owner of New York children’s shoe boutique Shoofly, advises retailers to start slow and be selective in the brands and styles they carry, matching them to other products they already have in their store, and to educate themselves on size conversion. “Who knows—it might evolve into a whole corner of shoes!” she says. Deux par deux

Jack Rogers

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IN FOCUS: SWEET FEET

What to think about SPACE

When toying with the idea of adding shoes to your store selection, one of the main points to consider is the amount of space allotted for footwear. A strategic display is one important aspect for smaller boutiques to keep in mind. Jamara Ghalayini, owner of Pumpkinheads in Brentwood, CA, says that shoes only take up about 1 percent of her store’s actual floor space. “We display them within the section that they go with,” she says. Lisa Lloyd of The Frilly Frog Children’s Boutique in Greenwood, SC, places her footwear on a table near checkout and matches shoes with specific outfits throughout the store. “I only put out one of the shoes so we’re able to display them really well, and we end up rotating them and putting pairs throughout the store with different outfits,” she notes. “For [some styles] we’ll have lots of colors but I will only put out one color or a couple of colors at a time.” Kristen Hardin, owner of Bullfrogs and Butterflies in Chicago, also uses this tactic in her 1,500-square-foot store. “We have a shoe wall,” she says. “We have just one shoe from each style out and the new [styles], and we have all the boxes in back stock.” Lloyd confirms Hardin’s assessment that the bulk of the space that shoes take up is in the stock room, so ensure that your store has enough space in the storage area to carry various colors and sizes.

NEEDS OF THE LOCAL MARKET

Addressing if there is a demand in your customer base and local community for children’s shoes is another important aspect to consider. Bullfrogs and Butterflies and The Frilly Frog both began carrying a wider selection of footwear when shoe specialty stores near them closed. “There used to be a children’s shoe store that was a block away from us [and] because they were right down the street we didn’t carry that many shoes,” Bullfrogs’ Hardin says. “Shortly after we opened, they closed, so we felt that there was definitely a need for it in our neighborhood and since then it has solidified itself as a department.” After the local Stride Rite in Greenwood closed, Lloyd says she started slowly adding shoes to her store’s selection that complemented apparel and other products, and she advises fellow retailers to do the same. “Each time I go to market, I try to increase my shoes a little bit because there’s not a place to buy children’s shoes here [anymore],” she notes. Lloyd also uses her boutique’s location next to a women’s shoe store to her advantage, even collaborating with the owner on brands. “The store next to me had the Jack Rogers sandals so I added them [for girls] here,” she says. “And we worked together on the Emu boots [addition] for fall—I ordered the children’s and she ordered the women’s.” FDRA’s Priest also recommends stores become a part of the community by forming relationships with customers, which includes communicating between visits. “Send them ‘thank you’ and birthday cards,” he says. “And also send them reminders that say, ‘It’s Sun San Sandal been two months since you bought shoes—it might be time for a size change.’ You have a unique opportunity to both create a community and be a part of the neighborhood.”

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Robeez

Emu

ORDERING

Hatley

Shoofly’s Viemester recommends that retailers do their homework before they decide what brands are right for their store. “There are a lot of companies out there and you might buy their shoe and [find] it’s a really hard shoe to fit all types of feet,” she says. Viemester also notes that classic styles such as loafers and ballet flats are good starters, as well as pre-walking shoe brands. Lloyd of The Frilly Frog agrees. “There are certain staples I keep all the time, like a girls’ Mary Jane shoe—it can go with everything, comes in a lot of colors and it sells all year round.” Lloyd also advises retailers to buy styles that don’t go on sale and can be re-ordered, and also to look at brands that don’t come in a case pack. “You don’t have to order a particular style in a size run,” she says. “As long as I get 10 or 12 pairs of shoes it doesn’t matter.” When Bullfrogs and Butterflies’ Hardin orders, she keeps the end wearer at the top of her mind. “I think about what a child needs in their shoe wardrobe—what are the shoes that they’re going to get the most use out of for different occasions,” she says. Hardin counts pre-walker brands Pediped and See Kai Run as her top-selling brands, adding that she tries to have brands that can “take the wear and tear of a toddler.” Pumpkinhead’s Ghalayini says she orders her shoes at the end

of the buying period so she is up to date on trends, and looks at past best sellers and the strongest colors in vogue. Buying for the season is also important, but don’t expect parents to start shopping for winter or summer staples before the weather begins to really take effect. “I know being in New York, snow and rain boots are a great thing to have,” Viemester says. “Unfortunately [customers] wait to buy the snow boots until it snows and until it rains to buy the rain boots.”

ADD-ONS

Ghalanyi says she started carrying shoes because they’re the finishing touch on an outfit. “When people are buying [clothes] for babies or toddlers, it’s easy to get them to buy [shoes] to complete an outfit because they are the detail,” she notes. Lloyd says that it’s helpful to have a good price range, from high to low, to encourage customers to purchase shoes as an add-on to their order. She also ensures that she selects footwear after she’s already chosen apparel for the upcoming season. “I go to Atlanta to Market so when I’m there ordering my clothes for next season, I take pictures of everything I have and then the last day I’ll try to coordinate particular shoes with outfits,” Lloyd notes. While many retailers sell shoes as the “cherry on top” of an outfit or as a giftable item, particularly for younger children, you should still ensure that the shoe properly fits the customer, or offer a money-back guarantee if the child’s not able to try

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IN FOCUS: SWEET FEET

See Kai Run

Pediped

on the shoe. Viemester recommends selling an insole with the shoe if the footwear is a gift to help ensure proper fit, and advises that a good fitting shoe makes all the difference. “For the longest time [shoes] have been considered as an add-on or an extra, but if retailers have the tools in their store to measure the foot, I think parents would really be appreciative of that,” she says.

SIZING AND CONVERSION

Sizing continues to be an issue in all footwear, but especially in children’s shoes as it’s particularly important to correctly fit a child’s growing feet. Viemester, who has been in the footwear business for 25 years, says her first step in fitting a child is to measure both feet with a Brannock device. “Then we steer them in the direction of where that size is and they can choose from a gamut of all different styles,” she says. “It’s important to let customers know that all shoes run differently—including shoes from

er_08_12_sweet_feet_02.change.indd 32

the same manufacturer—[and that] it’s the fit that should be the deciding factor.” She also notes that her store has a conversion chart for European brands, which she makes her staff memorize. “A lot of shoe companies put their conversions in the tongue of the shoe and on the box, so that’s a good starting point, but again it’s the fit that counts.” Knowing conversions and the brand’s sizing are also ways for a store to gain a competitive advantage, notes AAFA’s Herman. Bullfrogs and Butterflies’ Hardin says she educated herself on how to fit a child’s foot when she first began carrying footwear and has since trained her staff as well. “We measure their feet, have the child try on the shoe and make sure there’s enough room, but not too much, and a good fit both width and lengthwise,” she says. “Then we let them run around and make sure they can run fast.” Hardin notes that parents look to them when it comes to sizing, and if they get it right, the customer is more likely to return. Viemester advises retailers to buy a few half sizes and a variety of widths, if the company offers them, to start out and see what sells well in their store. “You’ll know by the end of a season what works best for you,” she notes. FDRA’s Priest recommends using the various brand sizes as an opportunity to get to better know your customers. “It stresses the importance of interacting with the customer and trying the shoes on the child’s feet, watching the child walk in the shoes, making sure there is no slippage, that it’s not too tight and see how the fit feels in response to the child walking,” he says. He notes that online resources, such as the National Shoe Retailers Association, are ]eeZ mWoi \eh ijeh[ emd[hi je [ZkYWj[ j^[ci[bl[i _d i_p_d]$

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Come Take A Look! Spring/Summer 2013 styles now showing

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Atlanta Shoe Market Atlanta, GA August 17th - 19th Cobb Galleria Centre Booth C15-C16

Kids on Six Oakland, CA August 25th - 28th Marriott City Center

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IN FOCUS: SWEET FEET

Feet First

From running on freshly cut grass to attending spring formals, designers revisit their own childhoods to create Spring ’13 collections chock-full of delightful and imaginative footwear that take style cues straight from their older counterparts. By Angela Velasquez

Shoofly’s Viemester advises retailers to use a size chart for reference, and learn it by heart.

Josmo

Pampili

Jessica Simpson

Stir Crazy With a little bit of this and that, designers are awakening the inner-fashionista in little girls with mixed media embellishments. Standout styles incorporate some of the biggest trends in women’s footwear including braiding, animal prints, Southwestern-inspired materials and micro wedges.

Neon Shades From cool sneakers to boardwalk-ready sandals, the newest wave of neon shoes takes the volume down a notch by pairing the colors with black and other neutrals. The intense shades lend themselves to other accents, too, like bold animal prints.

Infant

Columbia

US 0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

EURO 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24

Wedge In Straight from their older sisters’ closets, wedge sandals are inching their way into becoming a staple for girls of all ages. The hint of heel lends a sophisticated air and plays into princess fantasies while pretty sorbet hues and soft metallics keep the look kid-friendly.

Toddlers

25 26 27 28 29

13 13.5 1 2 3 4 5

30 31 32 33 34 35 36

5.5 6 6.5 7

37 38 39 40

6 7 8 9

37 38 39 40

Girls

Boys

9 10 10.5 11 12

Children

Merrell Cienta

Going Au Naturel Cool, simple and a carbon copy of mom and dad’s summer wardrobe, linen is an earthy alternative to traditional summer whites. The natural material dresses up or down with ease, and when paired with soft ankle ties and jute soles, the looks exemplifies the season’s relaxed vibe.

Keen

Bunk Mates The call of the wild beckons little feet with rugged, waterproof shoes. Perfect for summer camp and outdoor activities, the latest crop of gear melds hi-tech perks such as superior traction and draining with designs that engage kids’ adventurous spirits.

Vans

Lemonade Stand Sunny, cheery and bright, yellow refreshes classic spring styles such as ballet flats and sweet sandals. On athletic sneakers, the zesty color channels a “quick as lightning” look— a must-have on the school play yard.

Carter’s by Goldbug Ugg

Primigi

*Size conversion numbers courtesy of Naturino.

Block Party Slick patents add a new level of luminosity to color block shoes. Look for poppy shades juxtaposed to pretty pinks and corals—a perfect punctuation to the season’s prettiest party frocks.

Nina Kids

Burn Rubber The newest kicks on the block put some pep in the step thanks to generous amounts of funky details. Psychedelic swirls, quirky polka dots, chunky glitter and metallics are essential to the look.

Livie & Luca

Saucony

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LAURA ASHLEY CHILDREN’S FOOTWEAR

800 572 5353 info@josmo.com EARN_35 35

7/23/12 3:43:40 PM


Made

Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Italy’s premier trade show Pitti Immagine, shares

Raffaello Napoleone, CEO of Pitti Immagine.

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ith more U.S. exhibitors seeking out the international reach of Pitti Immagine Bimbo, the Florence, Italy-based trade show that has showcased the children’s fashion scene since 1975, CEO Raffaello Napoleone feels confident that the company has found a recipe for success. Despite the shakiness of the European economy, or maybe because of it, Napoleone asserts that the emergence of a truly international offering is crucial to the business. He offers up a trade show that is so much more than a market—a biannual event that amplifies the difference between need and want and argues by comparison that want is always a more compelling sale. Runway shows, cultural events and interplay with the local art scene, as well as its digs at the Fortezza de Basso, make this market highly anticipated and eminently memorable. Napoleone had many interesting and varied jobs before taking his post as CEO of Pitti Immagine. His first job was as a sailboat builder and racer that he pursued during his university studies through his mid-20s. “I started sailing with my father and brothers and have raced yachts in Italy both with dinghies and bigger boats, crossed the Atlantic Ocean and gone from Saint Malo in France to Cape Town in South Africa,” he says. “Sailing is a reason for living as well as a great opportunity to reflect on one’s work.” He moved from boats into pharmaceuticals, and then took a turn into the fashion industry, quite by accident. “I was not looking for something in fashion. Somebody sought me out,” he says. That “somebody” was none other than

PHOTO COURTESY OF PITTI IMMAGINE.

W

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his


e in Italy

ares

his insights on the international childrenswear scene. By Jennifer Cattaui

Salvatore Ferragamo, who brought Napoleone on as his personal manager in 1986. “As you can imagine, being a personal manager is an administrative function, not really a fashion function. But, from there I learned a lot of things about fashion and ultimately that is why I was later hired by Pitti Immagine,” he says. With all of that experience, Napoleone brings to the table a unique mix of bravado, organization, eye for beauty, mind for business and intuitive Italian elegance. After 23 years under his very fashionable belt at Pitti (20 as general manager and three as CEO), Napoleone has a global and broad view across market segments, including men’s, women’s and children’s. He sat down with Earnshaw’s to give his insights into the evolution of childrenswear, how it relates to the adult fashion market and what we can expect for the future. What makes Pitti Immagine Bimbo so special? It is indeed something extraordinary. It’s held in Florence where Italian fashion was born in 1951. Florence is in a region of Italy where fashion is the biggest industry, from leather to yarn and fabrics. When I started with Pitti it was a very difficult period. A lot of people had the idea that Pitti was in trouble and would be very hard to relaunch. We renewed the management, the strategies and the label of the company and we started traveling much more. We improved the services for the exhibitors and visitors and changed the layout. At Pitti, we have an integral role in the culture of fashion. We are the only organization that puts together exhibitions and publishes books about fashion, and we have a real 360-degree strategy to bring exhibitors and buyers to Florence. We are now the foremost

platform on the market in the menswear industry, the womenswear industry and the childrenswear industry. We also just launched an exhibition on food called “Taste.” We now have established roles in these industries and hold exhibitions season after season. How have you seen the children’s marketplace transform over the years? It has changed dramatically. In the very beginning, we served an industry of small companies, mostly Italian, but now the children’s marketplace encompasses much bigger organizations, many of which are international. Slowly over the years, designers started paying attention to the childrenswear business. Large labels are not just signing a licensing agreement to produce children’s clothing anymore, but they are also taking care of production and the distribution. The industry is now much more mature, much more evolved. The real change is in the fact that now the children’s industry has what we call in Italian, the majorita—it is more than 18 years old—it has hit majority. It’s mature. Children’s now is a really big industry with proper turnover, and there is a lot of opportunity from a creative point of view, and from an action, evolution and communication point of view. How does the Pitti show support the evolution of the industry? We deliver a very important experience. The next edition is the 75th edition—which means we’ve been producing shows for more than 37 years. The way to help the industry today is first with the selection of the participating companies. We look for companies that season after season really renew their collections. We do a lot of research and we do a lot of scouting. We offer very small companies the opportunity

to come to Pitti, to be part of the New View section. Finally, and I think this is the key point, we work to be as international as we can. Pitti Immagine Bimbo has a very global audience. From an exhibiting point of view we have 40 percent of the visitors coming from abroad and the same holds true in regard to buyers. Are there certain regions that participate more or are trending? Russia, Japan and some Middle Eastern countries are very interested in childrenswear because the culture in these countries includes dressing children very well. We are working to grow their attendance. And do you think children’s has truly now become a global marketplace? It’s now a global market like men’s and women’s, but it’s a different kind of maturity. For example, the shoe business in childrenswear is different from the shoe business in menswear and women’s wear. In children’s, we cover sizes from newborn to 16 years old. The goods are related to the age of the consumers. If you walk down Madison or Fifth Avenue there are many more shops related to men or women. The turnover in Italy of the children’s industry is one-fifth of the women’s turnover and onequarter of the men’s turnover. But this is normal. If you are catering to newborns through 16-year-olds and the rest of the market caters to 16-year-olds through 80-year-olds, of course [the adult market] is much bigger. What trends do you see in consumer behavior? The tendencies of childrenswear are different than what is happening with women and men. In the past, childrenswear was a reduction of men’s and women’s apparel. Now the children’s (&'( 7K=KIJ ;7HDI>7MI$9EC 37

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industry has its own tides, its own main direction to follow. Of course you still have mainstreams that are very influential for all of the fashion industry— whether they influence in the use of technical fabrics, choice of raw materials, user function, etcetera. With all that’s been going on in Europe—in Greece, Portugal, Spain—how is the market dealing with these challenges? These are very important challenges and the countries you mentioned are really good consumers in childrenswear, and are in very bad shape. It’s a difficult situation, but fortunately now you have new countries with spending power that are very interesting, like the Russian and Chinese markets. They are really balancing what is happening. The Brazilian market is also growing very fast in the children’s businesses. To be global today has many more advantages than disadvantages. Childrenswear can benefit from these changes. Is that what you see—that globalization and being able to tap into markets of strength in any given time as great opportunities in childrenswear? Yes, and Pitti Immagine Bimbo plays a major role in this. If you want to meet the international market, you have to be here. We are the most important international show in the children’s business. Tell us about how you approach Pitti every year. How do you put all of the pieces together? We are a good team. A few hours after the closing of a trade show, we meet and speak about the strengths and weaknesses of each Pitti edition. Within the next few days after the show we start thinking about the coming edition. And during these meetings we speak about the options we have and new ideas to apply. We are really working day by day carefully detecting what’s going on in the market. Of course, we have our technical committee that helps us to make the right choices. To be in the trade show business is very interesting because we’re really influential about the choices in the industry. We’re able to launch new sections of the show, and we’re the only show in which runway shows are organized. At Pitti, buyers can also decide to catch an event in the town or in the fortress—all of these opportunities mean something for the industry. We are really in the belly button of the childrenswear industry. The fashion shows really stand out, as most other shows don’t have such an extensive

line up and high-hand production. What is the response to those? The feedback has been that including a fashion show adds something very professional and useful for companies, and it’s a good way to put value on the season and the new collection. Manufacturers can provide images to retailers and they can then transmit them in the shops or shop-in-shops if it’s a licensed property. It’s one of the opportunities to promote a label and a new collection, so it’s an important part of the business. How has the job of a buyer changed? Like all the very interesting jobs, fashion has changed in that it has to deal with society—it has to do with the evolution of the culture of the country and the way of buying, conceiving and perceiving business. If you want to be successful as a buyer, you have to be really curious; you have to travel a lot and research online as much as you can. You have to be informed. If you are passionate about what you do, you will be successful. Is there something that you personally enjoy the most about putting the Pitti Bimbo show together? What has been very interesting for us with regard to the next edition is the effort of looking for more international exhibitors to attend the show. To be successful, one needs to improve the participation of international exhibitors, and this will help improve the international buyers from the show. It opens or widens the opportunities of the market while being at the fortress in Florence. How do you find these new exhibitors? Traveling, attending the other trade shows and answering the application forms. We receive at least 100 new application forms [each show]. We check the lines by asking the companies to send us items from each collection so we can decide if it’s a good and interesting fit for the show. What has the response been to your online trade show platform ePitti? How has it evolved? We are very passionate about the ePitti project. Developed as a service for all Pitti Immagine certified buyers, it offers a chance to relive the fair experience online for a whole month after the show closes. Buyers can go back to the stands and look at the exhibitors’ top collections, discovering new brands and trends for next season. We started 12 months ago and today we have an average of 260,000 page views in childrenswear—it’s a huge number. There are 120,000 photos, 2,000 videos and a catalog

of over 10,000 products. The Pitti Immagine Bimbo community is made up of 11,000 to 12,000 buyers. The service we’re bringing to the exhibitors and the visitors is still very new, but we’ve been able to cull important information that can help the development of the show. For example, we are capturing the words that buyers and manufacturers use to enter the site, their search terms on the site and where they’re clicking. We’re able to segment where the audience is coming from and what keywords they are using, so we understand what people are looking for per region. The most popular terms for Italians searching the site are often different than the most popular terms for other regions. This is really interesting because we can, in the way we consider the show, give attention to something more than something else at the show. Based upon the words that people use to get into the site, and what they’re searching for on the site, we can reconsider how we lay out the show and how we segment the different needs of buyers. It’s also significant for the exhibitors–to know what is interesting for the buyers. What does the future hold for the ePitti platform? What we are working on is a showroom area where the manufacturer can deal with the distributor. We started at the end of September 2011, and last January we had the first real edition. We’ll see in the next 18 months if this new part of the platform will obtain the results we are expecting. We are taking it step by step. It has been a huge investment. Is there anything that strikes you that you would want to change about the business? In my opinion, the way the companies are operating now is the right way—more professional. But what I would like is a much deeper interest in the education system about the children’s business. There is a lot of opportunity here. I’m one of the founders of the Polimoda School in Florence. We started more than 20 years ago with FIT in New York (which has a specific childrenswear program). Also, with regard to education, two seasons ago we began the “Who’s On Next” award during Pitti to improve the presence of new designers in the children’s industry at the show. What’s the key to trade show success? If you follow, and at times if you are much quicker than the evolution of the market, you will continue to be successful. It’s just a question of being on top of the changes season after i[Wied Wi j^[o eYYkh _d j^[ cWha[j$

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Girl & Co.

by limeapple

For all girls for all times... www.limeapple.ca

1.800.359.5171

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ITALIA

SPRING ’13 TREND REPORT:

In July, the international children’s market converged onto Florence, Italy for the 75th edition of Pitti Immagine Bimbo. Ceh[ j^Wd ,"&&& Xko[hi caught a first glimpse of the colors, cuts and prints set to rejuvenate kids’ wardrobes. Earnshaw’s

Miss Blumarine

got a firsthand look at the eclectic mix of classic and \h[i^ jh[dZi K$I$ h[jW_b[hi can expect to see across international waters. By Angela Velasquez

SUMMER GLOW

GIRL ON WIRE

A little fashion magic stole the show during the Miss Blumarine catwalk when a delicately knit dress with a wire hem floated down the runway. The wavy hem—a nod to 1950s party frocks—punctuated an otherwise classic dress with a bit of whimsy and humor. Similarly, Suzanne Ermann incorporated wire into her collection of imaginative wares decked out with neon piping and Swiss dot tulle.

Pets Rock by Restore

Zecchino d’Oro

Another wave of neon is set to electrify the market. For boys, that means bold streetwear. Fred Mello lit up its New York City-inspired range of hoodies and fleece pants with neon hues, as did C.P. Company Undersixteen which amped up its high-performance jackets and vests with pops of yellow and orange. For girls, Fiorucci channeled the ’80s with fluorescent one-shoulder tops and ruffled minis and, true

to form, Roberto Cavalli offered girls a lively option of Day-Glo shorts, rompers and tanks emblazed with zebra print and sequins. A majority of the neon looks were muted by neutral shades. Miss Grant and footwear brand Zecchino d’Oro cooled down bright citrus shades with grey. Other designers such as Stella McCartney and Twin-Set let neon accessories do all the shouting.

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WHITE SPACE

AMERICAN DREAM

Il Gufo Elsy Girl

Fresh air, green grass and picnics were all themes that inspired the return of classic American polka dot and gingham prints. For boys, Bóboli mixed in checks with a retro touch, as did Versace, which paired the old-timey print with modern era flourishes such as fitted button-down shirts and ornate belt buckles. The call for good old-fashioned American fun was further met with girls’ collections evoking the wholesomeness of the ’50s. Flouncy skirts and high-waist shorts and trousers covered in polka dots led the look. Piccola Ludo offered an entire range of dots—from sundresses to soft Mary Janes—that merchandised well with the collection’s kitschy lemon and strawberry motifs.

Miss Blumarine

Designers put a fresh stamp on this season’s crop of white dresses with looks culled from a number of inspirations. White was the starting point for Mi Mi Sol’s carefree range of silk voile dresses. Lush materials such as chiffon and organza made up Stillini’s line and were jazzed up with a smattering of crystals. Belted fit and flare silhouettes cut a chic profile in Minifix’s collection that was heightened by fancy trims and soft cowl necklines. Optic white was also the canvas for Miss Blumarine’s range of bouclé cotton dresses woven with golden threads. Similarly, Roberto Cavalli added a Grecian touch to white taffeta with leaves in tonal white beads.

COASTING ALONG

Grant Garçon Miss Blumarine

Stella McCartney Kids

Designers’ apparent aching for beach vacations was evident in the amount of looks that were coastline-inspired. Breezy layers and linen recalled the relaxed styling of America’s West Coast. Open button-down shirts layered over simple tees, roomy dresses, Bohemian scarves and cuffed chinos captured surfers’ laidback lifestyle. Denim brands Finger in the Nose and Pepe Jeans got in on the action with pale neon denim that looked like it spent too much time in the sun. The washed colors also complemented the wave of vintage Hawaiian motifs. Stella McCartney keyed into the theme with psychedelic tees featuring soaring birds and crashing waves. Roberto Cavalli’s earthy color palette explored the island’s lush land. Accents like grass skirt-inspired fringe added a hula girl touch. Brazil’s exuberance for prints delivered an irresistible tropical punch. Junior Gaultier’s “The Girl from Ipanema” collection coined the look with one shoulder tanks with metallic typography, tropical flower prints and canary yellow pants. Boys’ styles included cargo vests and shorts ready for a rainforest adventure. Swimsuits with colorsoaked palm fronds by Versace and Sonia Rykiel’s lively fruit print with sunglass-wearing bananas rounded out the graphic look.

Fun & Fun

Fun & Fun

KNITTING CLASS

Crochet and macramé flourishes added textural interest to the perennial Boho look for girls. Chunky scarves in earthy tones from Twin-Set and Fun & Fun struck a mature note and will no doubt be envied by mothers. Miss Grant’s So-Cal look comprised a sparkly tee and shorts with a fringed sweater. Stella McCartney brought a quirky, British sensibility to the trend and stole the show with a cropped butterfly cardigan.

DROP IN

In a mass of A-lines and empires, drop waist silhouettes looked fresh and new in spite of their vintage roots. Piccola Ludo spruced up the traditionally relaxed shape with taffeta in pastels and pops of knitted flower buds—a perfect combination for springtime occasions that call for girls’ Sunday best. Minifix keyed into a more casual look with peasant sleeves and a billowy torso. Fun & Fun brought the cut to a whole new level with an explosion of tulle. (&'( 7K=KIJ ;7HDI>7MI$9EC 41

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Il Gufo

Elsy Girl

Versace

EYE SPY

When Marc Jacobs presented his candy-color eyelet frocks and suits for Louis Vuitton’s Spring ’12 collection, children’s designers took note. As with every spring, there’s no shortage of white eyelet and lace, but designers are taking Jacob’s haute approach by revamping the delicate materials with color. Pastel lace encapsulated Minifix’s refined and elegant collection. The brand also popped white lace collars and trims against dusty hues. Similarly, Il Gufo and Charabia showed white lace and eyelet overlays atop bright pink, yellow and blue foundations. Paul Smith Junior took a more direct approach with a pair of chic coral eyelet city shorts. A periwinkle jacket from Twin-Set Girl made up of rows of chunky lace had an organic feel to it. And Versace did not disappoint, taking on eveningwear with a black eyelet dress, trench coat and shorts accented with gold buttons.

SMALL GATHERING

Light and airy chiffon and silk pleats flutter into style on tops, skirts and dresses. Less schoolgirl and more uptown sophisticate, the delicate technique caught the eye of buyers hungry for fine details and fell into the good graces of a number of trends, including the season’s panache for seafaring wares and sorbet hues. For a more relaxed look, Pale Cloud added a crinkle effect to its pleated silk/cotton blend tank tops and dresses. Unlike other ultra-feminine accents like lace and eyelet, pleats looked right at home paired with skinny jeans and sneakers.

SAILOR LORE

For traditionalists, girls’ and boys’ lines saw a tide of clean and simple styling inspired by yachting clubs. Navy and white sailor stripes were a go-to combination for casual tops from Elsy Girl, which popped the optical lines with fuchsia accents. Piccola Ludo took a glam approach to the resort staple with chic loafers and totes adorned with gold anchors. Stripes were an especially popular choice for special occasion. Grant Garçon turned to light blue sailor stripes and accented short suits with colored bowties and trompe-l’oeil motifs.

See us at The Children's Club, NYC, Aug 5th-7th and Kids Show Las Vegas, Bally's, Aug. 20th-22nd. Offspring 112 W. 34th St., Suite 1000 NY, NY 10120 212-279-4150 Mark Zelen

Northeast Bill & Sandie Ellsworth 781-326-3999

er_08_12_european_trend_report_01.indd 42

Southeast Paul Daubney 404-577-6840

Caribbean/Latin America/ South Florida Rolando & Ana Hidalgo 305-266-8745

West Coast Teresa Stephen & Krystal Crooymans 866-723-KIDS

Midwest Richard Finkelstein & Al Zaiff 800-935-0236

Texas/Southwest Annette CardonaStein 214-637-4446

International Nathan A. Mamiye 212-216-6008

7/20/12 2:32 PM


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TEMPORARY TREASURE Pop-up shops turn empty spaces into opportunity. BY

LY N D S AY

MCGREGOR

Inside Joey Wolffer’s Styleliner.

FOR SOMETHING THAT’S supposed to be temporary, pop-up stores are beginning to look a lot like permanent pieces of the retail landscape. J^Wdai je Wd el[hijeYa e\ WlW_bWXb[ storefronts and brands’ desire to stir up interest and excitement any way j^[o YWd" [l[hoed[ \hec icWbb _dZ[f[ddents to big-box names has hopped on the brick-and-mortar bandwagon of pop-ups. In fact, they were responsible \eh . X_bb_ed _d iWb[i _d (&'& WdZ hei[ '* f[hY[dj _d j^[ \_hij jme gkWhj[hi e\ (&'' el[h j^[ o[Wh X[\eh[" WYYehZ_d] je Patricia Norins, publisher of Specialty Retail Report. ÇFef#kf h[jW_b _i W mWo je Yedl[o W c[iiW][ j^WjÊi d[l[h X[[d i[[d X[\eh[" d[l[h Zed[ X[\eh[$ ?jÊi W m^eb[ d[m way for merchants and brands to connect with their customers,” says 9^h_ij_dW Dehi_]" \ekdZ[h e\ Fef#Kf Insider, a company that brings together property owners and potential popup tenants. From big-budget splashy structures plonked in the middle of Manhattan to tiny online shops offering one-day flash sales, it’s commonplace for temporary storefronts to pop up, only to disappear a few hours, days or weeks later. Some offer special discounts or products; others simply want to showcase a brand to a new audience. Either way, pop-ups ^Wl[ X[Yec[ j^[ f[h\[Yj fbWj\ehc \eh designers and retailers to promote a new product and generate buzz. Dehi_] fe_dji je JWh][jÊi cWZ^eki[ for the much-trumpeted Missoni collaboration as the epitome of limited[Z_j_ed bkij0 J^[ Yebb[Yj_edÊi fef#kf launch at Bryant Park sold out in six hours as shoppers scrambled to snag the Italian designer’s clothes for a song. But make no mistake: Pulling together a successful pop-up is hard work. As

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Norsig puts it, “It’s important to note that everything has its limitations. When a store doesn’t deliver on this whole notion of ‘limited edition,’ it doesn’t work.”

THE VETERAN

For Angelique Ledoux, president of online retailer Jade’s Toybox, the holiday season is the perfect time to set up shop in the family-friendly New York City neighborhood of TriBeCa. “Pop-ups are great because they offer smaller brands the opportunity to go into neighborhoods that they wouldn’t typically be able to afford as a start up,” Ledoux says, noting that her eco-friendly line of educational toys and books is seasonal and typically sells better in the fourth quarter so for her, a pop-up makes more sense financially. “I’ve been lucky in the last four to five years because the real estate market hasn’t been doing well so I can lease a 3,000-square-foot space for two months for anything between a half and a quarter of what it usually goes for.” In addition to selling toy-filled gift sets for babies, toddlers and preschoolers, the shop hosts a slew of family activities, like arts and crafts and story time. And when the big buying binge is over, Ledoux pulls up the stakes, waits out the lean months and re-emerges in another empty storefront the following year. “It’s not about selling your product; it’s about creating an environment and atmosphere and reaching out to parents, showing them who you are as a brand,” she says. After five years, Ledoux knows the ins and outs of pop-ups better than most, and she stresses that timing is key. “You have to be able to find that space early,” she warns, adding that as the market picks up, it gets trickier. “Landlords want to hold off until a bigger client comes along, so you can’t plan ahead. Which means you might have issues when it comes to advertising your pop-up. If you can’t get it all together properly you’re going to be in trouble.” Her advice to other online retailers who fancy taking the transient route is simple: “Know the neighborhood. Know the audience. If you think it’s overwhelming, partner with another brand, because partnering is what got us off the ground initially,” she says. “Really explore the real estate market, and don’t think you have to pay full price, because you don’t.”

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From top: The Styleliner Sundance Igloo interior and exterior at the 2012 Sundance Film Festival in Park City, UT; Inside the Missoni for Target pop-up launch in 2011.

7/20/12 8:46 AM


On and Poppin’ THE PARTNERSHIP

A last-minute decision (and a little bit of luck) b[Z je A_cX[hbo =eeZm_d" Z[i_]d[h e\ Y^_bZh[dÊi im_cm[Wh b_d[ IdWff_d] Jkhjb[" X[_d] W fWhj e\ F[j_j Fef#Kf ed D[m Oeha 9_joÊi Kff[h ;Wij I_Z[ bWij @kd[$ ÇM[ b_j[hWbbo fkbb[Z j^_i je][j^[h _d j^h[[ m[[ai"È i^[ h[l[Wbi e\ j^[ m[[a#bed] [l[dj$ ?di_Z[ j^[ CWZ_ied 7l[dk[ `[m[b Xen mWi IdWff_d] Jkhjb[Êi emd Yebb[Yj_ed e\ im_cm[Wh" Wbed] m_j^ 9^_Y 9^_bZ Z[i_]d[h [nYbki_l[i" bekd][m[Wh \hec Eb_l_W WdZ Em[d WdZ okcco jh[Wji fhel_Z[Z Xo 9_We 8[bbW =[bWje$ Ç?jÊi W ]h[Wj mWo \eh XhWdZi j^Wj ZedÊj d[Y[iiWh_bo mWdj je jWa[ ed W m^eb[ ijeh[ Xo j^[ci[bl[i je Z_f W je[ _d j^[ mWj[h m_j^ekj ^Wl_d] je ]e \kbb if[[Z W^[WZ _dje h[jW_b"È i^[ iWoi" ijh[ii_d] j^Wj _jÊi _cfehjWdj je Y^eei[ W ifej Ybei[ je oekh Ykijec[h XWi[$ ÇOek YekbZ X[ _d j^_i ]h[Wj ifWY[ Xkj _\ _jÊi dej j^[ h_]^j j_c[ e\ o[Wh" eh d[_]^Xeh^eeZ" _jÊi dej ]e_d] je meha$È M_j^ `kij j^h[[ m[[ai je fbWd j^[ fef#kf \hec ijWhj je \_d_i^" j^[h[ mWi de j_c[ je WZl[hj_i[$ 8kj j^Wdai je <WY[Xeea" Jm_jj[h WdZ cecco Xbe]][hi dej je c[dj_ed j^[ Yel[j[Z WZZh[ii j^[ i^ef mWi dej^_d] i^ehj e\ W ikYY[ii$ 7dZ" =eeZm_d dej[i" j^[ b_c_j[Z [Z_j_ed" ckij#^Wl[ Wif[Yj fbWo[Z W X_] fWhj" jee$ Ç? e\\[h[Z W Z[Wb j^Wj _\ oek Xek]^j jme XWj^_d] ik_ji eh ceh[" oek ]ej W \h[[ jej[ XW]" WdZ ed j^[ bWij ZWo m[ e\\[h[Z W (+ f[hY[dj Z_iYekdj"È i^[ WZZi$ 7bj^ek]^ _j mWi m[bb h[Y[_l[Z" =eeZm_d ^Wi de _cc[Z_Wj[ fbWdi \eh Wdej^[h i^ehj#j[hc i^ef$ Ç?jÊi W bej e\ meha$ OekÊh[ h[ifedi_Xb[ \eh [l[ho b_jjb[ Z[jW_b" \hec cWha[j_d] WdZ ekj\_jj_d] j^[ ifWY[ je Z[Y_Z_d] ^em je X[ij kj_b_p[ oekh XkZ][j$È

THE NEWBIE

M^[d AWj_[ 7dj_i" emd[h WdZ Yh[Wj_l[ Z_h[Yjeh e\ cWj[hd_jo Ybej^_d] b_d[ 8kcf 9ekjkh[" cel[Z \hec 9Wb_\ehd_W je 9^_YW]e WdZ ^WZ ^[h emd XWXo" i^[ Z[Y_Z[Z je jWa[ W Xh[Wa \hec Z[i_]d_d]$ 8kj _j mWidÊj bed] X[\eh[ i^[ h[Wb_p[Z i^[ ^WZ je Ze iec[j^_d] m_j^ Wbb ^[h b[\jel[h _dl[djeho WdZ iWcfb[iÆWdZ i^[ ad[m i^[ YekbZdÊj X[ j^[ edbo ed[$ J^ki" 8kcf 9ekjkh[ mWi Xehd$ J^[ fef#kf ^[bZ _ji _dWk]khWb jme#ZWo iWb[ _d CWhY^" e\\[h_d] [nYbki_l[ Z_iYekdji ed Ybej^_d] WdZ WYY[iieh_[i \eh ceci WdZ jeji \hec XhWdZi ikY^ Wi IW][ Ifeed\kbi" C_W 8eii_" ;bb[ C_hW_" IWcied CWhj_d WdZ I[[ C[ =hem$ <bWi^ iWb[i Wh[ Wbie _d j^[ f_f[b_d[ \eh ikcc[h WdZ \Wbb$ ÇJ^[ YedY[fj X[^_dZ 8kcf 9ekjkh[ _i l[ho i_c_bWh je jhWZ[ i^emi \eh Xko[hi" Xkj m[ Wh[ jWa_d] j^[ cWha[j ijhW_]^j je j^[ Yedikc[h m_j^ Z_h[Yj iWb[i \hec j^[ l[dZehi"È 7dj_i iWoi$ 9kijec[hi iWl[Z ed W c_n e\ el[hijeYa WdZ ed[#e\#W#a_dZ iWcfb[i \hec Z[i_]d[hi" m^eb[iWb[hi WdZ h[jW_b[hi$ ÇQFef#kfiS Wh[ W ]h[Wj mWo \eh h[jW_b[hi" Wi m[bb Wi m^eb[iWb[hi" je _djheZkY[ d[m fheZkYj WdZ d[m beYWj_edi m_j^ekj Wbb j^[ el[h^[WZ Yeij"È i^[ iWoi" WZZ_d] j^Wj j^[o Wbie ^[bf je kdbeWZ fWij i[Wiedi WdZ el[hijeYa$ 8kj" i^[Êi gk_Ya je dej[" Z[f[dZ_d] ed ^em bed] oekh Zeehi Wh[ ef[d" oek cWo eh cWo dej ][j je jWa[ WZlWdjW][ e\ j^[ h[f[Wj Ykijec[h$ Ç?j jWa[i W bej e\ fbWdd_d] WdZ W bej e\ fh[ii$ Oek ^Wl[ je cWa[ ikh[ f[efb[ adem m^e oek Wh[ WdZ m^Wj oek ^Wl[ je e\\[h" Wi m[bb Wi m^[h[ oek m_bb X[ WdZ m^[d$ Oekh ijeh[ _i edbo ef[d \eh W i^ehj f[h_eZ e\ j_c[ ie ][jj_d] f[efb[ _d j^[ Zeeh je fkhY^Wi[ oekh fheZkYji _i a[o$È

The “Donut Shop” pop-up at menswear trade show Capsule in January.

Pop-up shops have gone from a perfect example of temporary installation to a fixture on all marketing strategy to-do lists. With everything from photography workshops to food trucks claiming the concept, how do you make your store stand out? “You can’t write off the strength of having a physical space,” says Melissa Gonzalez, CEO and founder of Lion’esque Style, a company that helps brands open and market pop-ups. Here she shares her top tips on making short-term shops work for you.

What’s your point? Some busi-

nesses open pop-ups to try out a new idea or showcase a new product line. Other brands might be a big deal abroad but want to test the market to see if it makes sense to open up a store in the U.S. For online retailers, pop-ups offer an opportunity to engage and interact with customers.

Rent a space. Pop-ups tend to

appear in vacant spaces, like a store between leases. When researching locations, make sure all your business needs are met and try choosing somewhere with a lot of foot traffic.

Make it pop. Create a strong lifestyle message so consumers walk in and immediately “get” you. This is where windows are a huge help: “The pickup and drop-off in traffic is based on what’s in that window,” notes Gonzalez. Stop shoppers in their tracks with engaging visuals and alluring displays.

Stock it. The amount of stock you

will need depends on the size of your space and the length of time you will be there. And it’s important to think about who and what’s in that neighborhood: Curate your selection based on your audience.

Spread the word. Start marketing

your pop-up before it even opens. Use social media, and give yourself enough time so publications and bloggers can write about it and drum up interest. Gonzalez recommends VIP shopping events, co-hosting a night with fashion bloggers or running a promotion where anyone who “checks in” on Facebook or Foursquare gets a percentage off his or her purchase.

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SAKS FIFTH AVENUE IMAGES COURTESY OF SAKS FIFTH AVENUE.

IT’S THE HOLIDAY SEASON

Saks Fifth Avenue, NYC.

As retailers begin prepping for December months in advance, department stores’ visual directors give advice on how to create unique and successful holiday décor. By Maria Bouselli

HILE MOST AMERICANS are enjoying the last precious days of summer, retailers are in the throes of planning their holiday windows, often the most festive and elaborate display of the year. Even if you’re not a big New York City department store, it’s clear that a well-executed window drives sales. Emd[h e\ J^[ 9^_bZh[dÊi 8ekj_gk[ _d Zemdjemd F^_bWZ[bf^_W" B_dZW 8[hcWd" iWoi ^[h ^eb_ZWo m_dZem _i j^[ _dl_jWj_ed j^Wj her store is ready for Christmas, and notes that the products featured in ^[h Z_ifbWoi WbmWoi i[bb ekj$ J^[h[Êi dej W h[jW_b[h ekj j^[h[ m^e mekbZdÊj want those kinds of results. While your store may not have a bottomless Fifth Avenue budget, you can still use your vitrines to let your creativity shine. And if you haven’t got a plan yet, take some cues from the professionals and get started.

TIMING

J^[ h[demd[Z m_dZemi e\ D[m Oeha 9_jo" kikWbbo j^[ \_hij i_]d j^Wj j^[ most wonderful time of the year is on its way, have created a standard by which smaller retailers can only dream of living up to. Of course, department stores begin planning for window displays between one to jme o[Whi _d WZlWdY[" WYYehZ_d] je L_Y[ Fh[i_Z[dj e\ j^[ DWj_edWb H[jW_b <[Z[hWj_ed" WdZ )+#o[Wh h[jW_b l[j[hWd" :Wd 8kjb[h$

City Sprouts, St. Louis, MO.

>Whho 9kdd_d]^Wc" ILF e\ ijeh[ fbWdd_d] WdZ l_ikWb Wj IWai <_\j^ Avenue in New York, says his team’s first step is to draw up boards early in the year to choose a display and by June they’re fully engulfed in making their vision come to life, testing lighting and ordering décor WdZ jh_c$ J^[ Xk_bZ_d] fheY[ii X[]_di Wj j^[ [dZ e\ j^[ ikcc[h" WdZ by October all of the products needed for the display have come in and j^[ _dijWbbWj_ed fheY[ii X[]_di$ J^[ m_dZemi ef[d j^[ j^_hZ m[[a e\ November and then Cunningham and his team get right to work on next year’s holiday displays. While small specialty stores may not have the resources to start prepping two years ahead, about half way through the year is the “norm” for icWbb[h h[jW_b[hi je X[]_d j^[_h fh[fWhWj_edi$ J^[ CW]_Y MWhZheX[ _d =[eh][jemd" W ikXkhX d[Wh MWi^_d]jed :$9$" _i ademd \eh _ji m_dZem Z_ifbWoi" m^_Y^ emd[h 8h_Z][j M_bied" ^[h ijob_ij WdZ f^eje]hWf^[h Z[i_]d$ “Six months prior we have picked out the scene for our Christmas display,” Wilson says. “We build it up in October and November and we kdl[_b ekh m_dZemi h_]^j W\j[h J^Wdai]_l_d]$È

CONCEPT

:Wl_Z >e[o" i[d_eh Z_h[Yjeh e\ l_ikWb fh[i[djWj_ed Wj 8[h]Zeh\ =eeZcWd" says his first step in window design is to settle on a theme that will “enter-

48 ;7HDI>7MI$9EC 7K=KIJ (&'(

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Bergdorf Goodman, NYC.

5 Tips on How to Get Inspired Surf the Web Websites such as Pinterest and Tumblr have some great images and ideas that can spark your imagination. Look Back Take some time to view catalogs and windows from last year. You can translate bigger concepts to fit into your smaller window if you have the right vision. Create a Folder Whenever you find a picture, decorating tip or advice that could be helpful for the holiday season, keep a clipping of it in a folder you can review for inspiration.

BERGDORF GOODMAN IMAGES COURTESY OF RICKY ZEHAVI.

Take Photos Nearly everyone is constantly equipped with a camera—you probably have one on your phone. Take pictures of everyday things you find exciting. Go Shopping There’s nothing wrong with getting a little inspiration from other stores. You might even find something to buy that fits perfectly in your window display.

tain, beguile and seduce” customers, adding, “every window contains a if[Y_Wbbo Y^ei[d WdZ _cfehjWdj \Wi^_ed [b[c[dj$È 9kdd_d]^Wc dej[i that he asks himself the question “Is it Saks appropriate?” when planning his holiday windows and displays to ensure that the designs are the right c_n e\ ceZ[hd_jo WdZ j^[ ijeh[Êi h_Y^ ^[h_jW][$ ÇDWjkhWbbo Wj 9^h_ijcWi we do get a little bit more focused on children, but we still very much have j^[ \Wi^_ed j^h[WZ j^hek]^ekj ekh m_dZemi"È ^[ iWoi$ M^_b[ ^_]^ \Wi^_ed WdZ W X_j ceh[ if[dZ_d] ced[o cWo X[ WZlWdjW][eki \eh Z[fWhjc[dj ijeh[i" 9kdd_d]^Wc _di_iji j^Wj W ijeh[Êi icWbb[h XkZ][j Ze[i dej b_c_j Yh[Wj_l_jo$ ÇOek YWd cWa[ W m_dZem ]h[Wj WdZ kdkikWb WdZ l[ho if[Y_Wb m_j^ekj if[dZ_d] W bej e\ ced[o"È ^[ iWoi$ >[ recommends that retailers think outside the box, not to buy off the shelf WdZ je WbmWoi ^Wl[ W YWc[hW Wj j^[ h[WZo$ ÇJ^[ X[ij f_[Y[ e\ WZl_Y[ j^Wj ? give people in regards to inspiration is to always carry their phone with them 24-7, and any time they see something they like, take a picture, fh_dj _j ekj WdZ f_d _j iec[m^[h[$È >e[o WZl_i[i h[jW_b[hi je \eYki ed j^[ artistic possibilities rather than the purely commercial, citing his use of [njhWehZ_dWho Wdj_gk[i WdZ kdkikWb Yebb[Yj_edi$ Cebbo 9khb[[" emd[h e\ 9_jo Ifhekji _d Ij$ Bek_i" CE" iWoi i^[ beeai to Fifth Avenue, retail stores like Anthropologie, fellow children’s bouj_gk[i WdZ [l[d Wdj_gk[ i^efi \eh _dif_hWj_ed$ ÇM[ h[Wbbo Ze ekh h[i[WhY^ je Z[Y_Z[ m^Wj m_bb meha WdZ Wbie ^em ckY^ m[ YWd if[dZ"È i^[ iWoi$ I^[

advises retailers to purchase items they could use again, giving an examfb[ e\ \eWc WdZ meeZ[d b[jj[hi i^[Êi fkj _d dkc[heki Z_ifbWoi$ M_dZem Z_ifbWo Whj_ij Ij[f^Wd_[ CWo[h" W \h[[bWdY[h \eh >[dh_ 8[dZ[b who has worked with several independent retailers, calls product sourc_d] W YhkY_Wb ij[f _d j^[ Z[i_]d fheY[ii$ Ç?\ oek ^Wl[ iec[j^_d] if[Y_\_Y _d c_dZ \eh W fhef eh cWj[h_Wb" iekhY_d] Wi ieed Wi feii_Xb[ _i a[o"È i^[ iWoi$ “These items are generally coming from individuals, small companies, or \eh XkZ][jÊi iWa[" Wi \Wh Wi 9^_dW$È I^[ b_iji 7cWped WdZ ;jio Wi jme fefkbWh m[Xi_j[i je i[WhY^ \eh if[Y_Wb_p[Z _j[ci$ CWo[h Wbie dej[i j^Wj m_dZemi j[dZ je X[ ceh[ j^[Wjh_YWb Zkh_d] j^[ ^eb_ZWo i[Wied$ ÇKdb_a[ Zkh_d] j^[ iY^eeb o[Wh" j^[ ^eb_ZWo m_dZem Z_ifbWo _i ckY^ ceh[ [bWXehWj["È i^[ iWoi$ @kij ^em ckY^ ceh[ [bWXehWj[" ^em[l[h" Z[f[dZi ed j^[ ijeh[$ ÇM[ ^Wl[ [ijWXb_i^[Z W jhWZ_j_ed _d these windows for no-holds-barred, extremely elaborate settings,” says 8[h]Zeh\Êi >e[o$ M^[h[ j^[ X_]][h Z[fWhjc[dj ijeh[i ^Wl[ j^[ heec" WdZ j^[ [nf[hj_i[" je Yh[Wj[ l[ho ehdWj[" jWij[\kb m_dZem Z_ifbWoi" IWaiÊ 9kdd_d]^Wc WZl_i[i icWbb[h h[jW_b[hi je a[[f j^[_h m_dZemi Yb[Wd WdZ i_cfb[$ >[ YWkj_edi “that putting too much in a window almost cheapens everything that’s in j^[h[Æoek ZedÊj adem m^[h[ je beea$È Some retailers choose to use non-specific holiday decorations, such Wi IWaiÊ jhWZ[cWha idem\bWa[ eh 8[h]Zeh\Êi m_dj[h#m^_j[ j^[c[" ie Wi (&'( 7K=KIJ ;7HDI>7MI$9EC 49

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Girly Couture Collection

not to alienate customers. Store owner of Honeys and Heroes in Palo Alto, CA, Alanna Klein ensures that her windows get customers in the holiday spirit without causing any offense. “We have a very diverse clientele,” she says. “So all of our décor is non-denominational, like twinkle lights and mirrors.” Lighting makes all the difference in a window display, and Cunningham recommends retailers spend an appropriate amount of their budget on ensuring that the display is well lit. “If you don’t have good lighting you might as well not have even done it,” he says. While a concept should be planned out by at least six months before the holiday, it will not be completely finalized until one and a half to three months ahead of the reveal, when all of the products arrive and the vision begins to take shape.

TECHNOLOGY

In 2011, many New York City stores dabbled in the use of technology in their window displays. Macy’s holiday windows featured a touchscreen visitors used to create a custom holiday ornament that they could download to their smartphones. Barney’s Lady Gaga-themed windows presented a film passersby could watch that transformed the pop star into several constellations. Saks, however, keeps new innovation to a minimum. “We’re putting our toe in the water, not jumping off full force,” Cunningham says. He notes the bicycle that moved through their windows in last year’s display as a way they used advancements behind the scenes. While he does call Macy’s displays “very intriguing, very interesting,” he believes using technologies in ways that work for an individual store is key. Smaller retailers are utilizing modern technology in another way—to communicate with customers and bring them into the store. City Sprouts’ Curlee says her shop has a great online presence and uses Facebook and e-mail to communicate with customers. “Keep reminding your e-mail list that you’re there,” she says of alerting customers to holiday merchandise and sales, offering them coupons and preview days. Owner of The Red Wagon in Boston, Suzy O’Brien, utilizes Facebook, Pinterest, e-mail and even the store blog to keep in contact with her customers, allowing her to send messages on short notice.

MERCHANDISING

www.9s-swimwear.com

Available in sizes 2T-16

Contact your regional representative Northeast

Southwest

A Bit of Honey Honey Smith New York, NY 10001 212.947.5644 honey@abitofhoney.com

Lesley Lewis Showroom The Posh Pit Dallas, TX 75207 214.630.4649 Lesley.Lewis@verizon.net

Southeast

West

Richard Rubin Apparel AmericasMart Atlanta Atlanta, GA 30303 404-577-4383 rrubinapparel@aol.com

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Nicky Rose Kids Showroom California Market Center Los Angeles, CA 90079 213.593.1322 nicky@nickyrosekids.com

If the window is the main drive into the store, the merchandising inside continues the story. The Children’s Boutique’s Berman says she decorates her store with animal- or character-adorned trees, citing one year’s Elmo tree as a best seller. “If you arrange [the product] really well, it gets some ‘saleability’ to it,” she notes. The Magic Wardrobe’s Wilson dedicates the whole front of her store to holiday and special occasion wear. “When the customer first walks into the store we always have our silk Christmas dresses hanging,” she says. “All the special occasion goes to the front of the shop because it’s the most beautiful.” To Saks’ Cunningham, indoor decorating and merchandising must begin by assessing the store space and determining what feels right. “We have a lot of décor in our stores; we’re not shy about it at all,” he says. “But one thing you’ll notice, the décor doesn’t impact the flow, the visibility, or the ability to move throughout the store. It’s out of the way, but noticeable.” Retailers should also keep the customers’ needs in mind and ensure that holiday décor and displays do not greatly affect the store’s layout. “We don’t do a whole lot of change in the arrangement of our stores,” Cunningham says. “The only thing that we might do is layer in some tables for gifting items.” Keeping the store neat and clean is a priority as well. “We are really into a beautiful store year round, but Christmas makes it even lovelier,” Berman says. •

7/20/12 2:14 PM


E A R N S H AW ’S M A G A Z I N E

Earnie Awards

EARNIE FINALISTS! (DRUMROLL, PLEASE.)

! Our finalists have been revealed and it’s time to mark the final ballot.

Hundreds of companies were selected by the retail community, but only four per category made the ballot. Voting is open until 11:59 p.m. EST on Aug. 30 and the winners will be announced at a cocktail reception and celebration on Oct. 22 at ENK in New York City. Cast your vote at www.earnieawards.com.

Cast your ballot to help select the top companies in childrenswear.

BEST INFANTS’ COLLECTION

BEST LICENSED APPAREL

BEST BOYS’ COLLECTION

Happy Socks Kids (United Legwear) Woolrich Kids (Weeplay) Puma (Parigi) Hello Kitty (Sanrio)

BEST HOSIERY BabyLegs Jefferies Socks Stride Rite Ewers

BEST NEW COMPANY 1-3 YEARS

Angel Dear Kissy Kissy Zutano

Homespun Vintage Warrior Poet Babiators

Paty, Inc.

Le Bebe Coo

iNTAKT Charlie Rocket Fore! Axel and Hudson Andy and Evan

BEST GIRLS’ COLLECTION Djaknemala Tea Collection Cupcakes & Pastries Luna Luna Copenhagen

BEST TWEEN Vintage Havana KC Parker Stella Industries Flowers by Zoe

“IT” ITEM OF THE YEAR Little G plush (Little Giraffe) Sunglasses (Babiators) Knot Genie (Wee Ones) Happy Socks (United Legwear)

BEST SWIMWEAR Stella Cove Europann Isobella & Chloe SwimZip

BEST DRESSWEAR Isobella & Chloe Joan Calabrese for Mon Cheri Us Angels Sara Sara/Hannah Banana

BEST SHOWROOM REP Nancy Market (NY)/ Amy Hoffman (LA) Mike Neckes (New England) Summer Place (Atlanta/Dallas) Annette’s Showroom (Dallas)

BEST FOOTWEAR Trimfoot Pediped Robeez Stonz

BEST ACCESSORIES/ JEWELRY

High IntenCity Babiators Wee Ones Marili Jean

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BEST GIFT ITEMS Aden + Anais Bunnies by the Bay Mud Pie Elegant Baby

BEST INTERNATIONAL BRAND Reset Mayoral Elaine et Lena Petit Bateau

COMPANY OF THE YEAR United Legwear Pediped Stride Rite Little Giraffe

BEST OUTERWEAR Reset Woolrich Kids Appaman Mack & Co.

BEST COMPANY FOR GOOD Pediped Twirls & Twigs Kiwi Industries Toms

BEST DENIM Joe’s Jeans !It Jeans Levi’s J.Brand

7/23/12 8:27 AM


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Photography by Rachel Bank Styling by Michel Onofrio From left: 405 South by Anita G bikini; Kate Mack bikini, all feather and floral headpieces throughout story designed by Stacey Fitts for Floral Occasions. 53

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From left: Submarine cherry blossom print suit, vintage Oscar de la Renta sunglasses, vintage hair clip; zig zag print one-piece by Submarine, stylist's feather headpiece. Opposite: Stella Cove bikini, vintage hat. 54

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55

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Isobella & Chloe ruffle one-piece bathing suit. Opposite, from left: Gossip Girl blue one-piece; tankini by Candlesticks, Bottledblonde Jewels by Alex Hillson bracelets.

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57

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Maaji bikini. Opposite: Bikinis by M.N. Bird. 59

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60

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Hula Star tankini, Bottledblonde Jewels by Alex Hillson bracelet worn as anklet. Opposite, from left: Love U Lots daisy-embellished bikini; To the 9's ruffle bikini, vintage hat. Style Director: Michel Onofrio Fashion Editor: Angela Velasquez Hair and Makeup: Violeta Meyners Models courtesy of Zuri Model and Talent Agency 61

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CALENDAR

MARKET DATES & EVENTS

AUGUST 4-6

Playtime New York 82 Mercer St. New York, NY (213) 563-7301 www.playtimenewyork.com

5-7

ENK Children’s Club Pier 94, 12th Ave. @ 55th St. New York, NY (212) 759-8055 www.enkshows.com

9-12

Copenhagen Fashion Week (CIFFKIDS) Bella Center Copenhagen, Denmark www.ciffkids.dk

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9-13

Atlanta Apparel Market AmericasMart Atlanta, GA (404) 220-3000 www.americasmart.com

10-14

North Branch Children’s Show 1229 N. North Branch, 3rd Floor Chicago, IL www.northbranchkids.com

11-13

Kidz at Stylemax 222 Merchandise Mart Plaza 7th Floor Market Suites Chicago, IL (312) 527-7570 www.kidzatstylemax.com

12-13

NW Kids Show DoubleTree by Hilton Seattle, WA www.nwkidsshow.com

13-15

12-13

United Boston Children’s Wear Show 75 McNeil Way Dedham, MA (781) 407-0055 www. unitedbostonchildrenswear.com

12-14

LA Kids Market California Market Center Los Angeles, CA (213) 630-3683 www.californiamarketcenter.com

St. Louis Gift Show St. Charles Convention Center St. Charles, MI (513) 861-1139 www.stlouisgiftshow.com

The Children’s Great Event Shoe Show The Marriott Teaneck at Glenpointe Teaneck, NJ (718) 769-4251 www.tcgess.com

13-16

13-17

NY Kids Market 34 West 33rd St. New York, NY www.nykidsmarket.com

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CALENDAR

MARKET DATES & EVENTS

16-19

19-22

Dallas Apparel & Accessories Market Dallas Market Center Dallas, TX (214) 655-6100 www.dallasmarketcenter.com

New York International Gift Fair Piers 92 & 94, Javits Center New York, NY (800) 272-7469 www.nyigf.com

17-21

20-22

Columbus MarketPlace Gift Show Columbus MarketPlace Dublin, OH (614) 339-5100 www.thecolumbusmarketplace.com

18-21

The Children’s Show at Deerfield Embassy Suites Deerfield, IL (248) 478-1732 www.midwestchildrens apparelgroup.com

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KIDShow Bally’s Hotel Las Vegas, NV (908) 232-0867 www.kidshow.cc

25-28

Kids on 6 - Northern California Oakland City Center Marriott Oakland, CA (213) 489-7908 www.kidson6.com

28-30

9-11

Playtime Tokyo Belle Salle Shibuya First Tokyo, Japan +81 (3)3793 0057 www.playtimetokyo.com

Michigan Children’s Show Glen Oaks Country Club 30124 W. 13 Mile Rd. Farmington Hills, MI (847) 415-2156

SEPTEMBER 8-10

United Boston Children’s Wear Show 75 McNeil Way Dedham, MA (781) 407-0055 www.unitedboston childrenswear.com

9-12

Dallas Total Gift & Home Market Dallas Market Center Dallas, TX (214) 655-6100 www.dallasmarketcenter.com

8-11

The Livonia Children’s Show Embassy Suites Livonia, MI www.midwestchildrens apparelgroup.com

Editor’s Note: Show details are subject to change. Please call the phone numbers or visit the show websites for up-to-date schedules. Show sponsors may send updates to editorialrequests@9threads.com.

7/23/12 4:18 PM


STYLE INCUBATOR

WOOLLY BOO

FIVELOAVES TWOFISH

What could be more essential to the long-term health and well-being of a child than a great night’s sleep? Woolly Boo proudly offers handcrafted, heirloom-quality basic bedding to ensure children sleep more soundly and wake up happier. Infants, toddlers and preschoolers benefit from renewing slumber in luxurious sleep sacks, mattress pads, comforters and pillows filled with organic wool and layered with organic cotton. Parents can rest assured their children are comforted in natural materials that are chemicalfree, hypoallergenic, breathable, mold and mildew resistant, flame retardant and moisture-wicking.

Fiveloaves Twofish is a fashiondriven lifestyle brand for girls, tween and teens that seamlessly blends European tradition with a Californiacasual attitude. The line offers sophisticated silhouettes, runway trends, rich textiles and plays with color. The Fiveloaves Twofish philosophy is simple: beautiful and no fuss. The collection is feminine, trendy and easy-to-wear, offering a wide array of dresses, rompers, coordinates and accessories to complete the look. Fiveloaves Twofish is designed and made in San Diego, CA. A Fiveloaves Twofish girl is not ordinary, so dress her extraordinary. Come see us at ENK at booth 2212. Heather Haas (619) 523-1024 heather@fiveloavestwofishclothing.com

www.fiveloavestwofishclothing.com

Visit our booth, A19, at Playtime in August! http://woollyboo.com https://www.facebook.com/ woollyboo https://twitter.com/ woollyboo

To view the line, contact our showrooms: New York: (212) 967-7908 x1, sales@andyandevankids.com Atlanta: The Coffs, (800) 580-5437, thecoffs@sbcglobal.net Chicago: J B Vogue, (312) 266-0309, vschanes@gmail.com Dallas: VonTour’s, (940) 497-3310, vontour@centurytel.net Los Angeles: Rochelle Sasson Perlman, (213) 489-7164, ro4kids@sbcglobal.net

ANDY & EVAN FOR LITTLE GENTLEMEN TRIBE

Award-winning and a celebrity favorite, Tribe is a luxury leather diaper bag brand that has redefined what a diaper bag should be—stylish and functional. Its signature bag, the Singapore Sling, is a head-turning creation that was crowned “Best Changing Bag” in the prestigious Junior Design Awards in 2012. Tribe counts Hollywood stars Katherine Heigl, Jillian Michaels and Grey’s Anatomy creator Shonda Rhimes amongst its growing tribe of fans.

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Rosie Jansen Managing Director showroom@tribebags.com Tel: +65 6467 0097 www.tribebags.com

Andy & Evan took its custom-made dress shirts down to size when it launched Little Gentlemen, a line of practical and fashionable boys’ clothing in sizes newborn through toddler. The Shirtzie, a tailored button-down one-piece, anchors the line, which also offers pants, blazers, knits, sweaters, coats, ties and hats for Fall/Winter 2012. It’s a must-have collection for the little gentleman in your life.

New England: David & Co, (781) 407-0001, dalterwitz@gmail.com Philadelphia: Jack Harlan, (888) 533-2000, jacksrack@aol.com Canadian Sales: Dogree, (514) 381-8808 x106, stock@dogree.com

Please visit us at ENK Children’s Club, NYC, August 5-7, at booth 1820.

www.andyandevankids.com

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THE TANGERINE TREE

Austin-based Shefali Shirhatti launched The Tangerine Tree with a clear goal—bring fun to children’s organic clothing— and their current line embodies that aim. Their clothes are made of incredibly high-quality, buttery-soft cotton in a fair trade factory. Pieces include rompers, dresses, skirts, bloomers, one-pieces, T-shirts and tops in fresh colors and cute appliqués and embroidered graphics in sizes 0-6X/7. The Tangerine Tree offers a no-hassle drop ship program and is currently looking for independent salespeople. Shefali Shirhatti (512) 632-8883 shefali@thetangerinetree.com www.thetangerinetree.com

Represented by: New York: The Rose Garden New England: Paula Mark Southeast: The Klein Group Midwest: Bob Detty South Central: The Coffs West Coast: Rebecca Ebershoff

WARRIOR POET

Hear ye, hear ye, Warrior Poet is pleased to announce the most thoughtful and battle-tested boys tees known to mankind. We have 17 fall designs available immediately in 10 sizes ranging from 2T to youth large. We are also taking pre-orders for Spring ’13. Believe us when we say: These high-quality, 100 percent combed cotton, panel-printed tees were worth the wait! Contact us at: (678) 878-9791 info@warriorpoetclothier.com www.warriorpoetclothier.com

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M ARKETPLACE

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Earnshaw's Marketplace maximizes small budgets for emerging infant and toddler companies. Tout your apparel or juven

7/20/12 8:29 AM


apparel or juvenile product collections to retailers looking for new resources targeting newborns through pre-schoolers. Call (646) 278-1510 Alexandra.Marinacci@9threads.com

<HF> L>> HG> H? MA>

?:LM>LM

@KHPBG@ <HFI:GB>L

BG :F>KB<:

Join Us

DB=Lahp EZl O^`Zl >GD G^p Rhkd

www.RuffleButts.com

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www.RuggedButts.com

7/20/12 8:29 AM


REMIX

Skull print T-shirt and board shorts by Charlie Rocket.

Tee and striped shorts by Charlie Rocket. Hooded towel by Yikes Twins, Kitestrings star print shorts.

Flapdoodles rash guard and swim trunks, Melissa & Doug bucket hat, Chooze flip-flops.

Tee and plaid shorts by Charlie Rocket.

T-shirt and cargo shorts by Kitestrings.

Fresh off the bus from their respective summer camps, brothers Jackson and Oliver reunited and dove into their roles as stylists, egging one another on as they pieced together colorful beach-ready get-ups. The swimwear’s vibrant colors and bold graphics matched their action-packed summer. While picking through surfer-inspired tees, diehard baseball fan, Jackson, retold how his team at baseball camp won a game earlier in the day. He then raved about his hometown heroes, the New York Mets, and their “awesome” field. Although he admits he’s never been to rival Yankee Stadium, he is sure that Citi Field is “way better because it has a Shake Shack”—a popular summertime burger joint. Little Oliver, having spent the day perfecting his painting of a “zebra with a unicorn horn” during camp arts and crafts time, continued to tap into his imagination by hamming it up in a superhero-inspired towel. He politely shooed his mom away from the set “so she could be surprised when she sees the photos.” The boys’ fun-filled day wasn’t over yet. After the photo shoot it was time for some brotherly bonding at Chuck E. Cheese. —Angela Velasquez

PHOTOGRAPHY BY McCANDLISS AND CAMPBELL

STYLISTS: JACKSON & OLIVER AGE: 8½ & 5 HOMETOWN: NEW YORK CITY

68 ;7HDI>7MI$9EC 7K=KIJ (&'(

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Jona Michelle New York Buzz Dannenfelser (212)695-5151 Los Angeles Teresa Stephen (213)623-8155 Dallas Greg Morgan (214)643-0100 Philadelphia Martin Arnold (609)471-6189 Seattle Carrie Martin (253)851-1418 Atlanta Paul Daubney (404)577-6840 Chicago Robert Centen & Associates (312)464-0999 Miami Miriam Devesa (305)261-5374

EARN_COV3 COV3

7/20/12 11:24:56 AM


®

Little Me

112 W. 34th Street Suite 1000 NY, NY 10120 212-279-4150 Mark Zelen

www.littleme.com Northeast Bill & Sandie Ellsworth 781-326-3999 Southeast Paul Daubney 404-577-6840 Caribbean/Latin America/ South Florida Rolando & Ana Hidalgo 305-266-8745 West Coast Teresa Stephen & Krystal Crooymans 866-723-KIDS Midwest Richard Finkelstein & Al Zaiff 800-935-0236 Texas/Southwest Annette Cardona-Stein 214-637-4446 International Nathan A. Mamiye 212-216-6008 See us at: The Children’s Club NYC, Aug. 5th-7th Kids Show Bally’s, Las Vegas Aug. 20th-22nd ABC Show, Louisville Oct. 14th-17th

EARN_COV4 COV4

7/20/12 2:29:05 PM


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