February 2012

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D E A N O F T W E E N I L E N E O R E N U Ê Ê Ê ° ° ÊU , / Ê , / : Ê Ê " U Ê 6 - ] Ê 9 INFANTS’, GIRLS’ & BOYS’ WEAR REVIEW FEBRUARY 201 2 $5.00

Denim

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More information: (415) 568-4574 elodie.petiot@ubifrance.fr

UNITED STATES

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UNITED WE STAND.

www.unitedlegwear.com

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See our Fall/Winter 2012 styles at these shows:

NEW

KSA Hawthorne, CA February 7th - 8th Room 265

CGESS Teaneck, NJ Februry 21st - 23rd

Atlanta Shoe Market Atlanta, GA Februry 18th - 20th Booth C14-C15

BSTA Manchester, NH February 26th - 28th Booth 403/405 South Hall

for

2 1 20 Improved Slip

Resistant Leather Sole

for pediped Originals®

• New leather diamond tread is more slip resistant! • Available on all NEW Spring/Summer 2012 Originals® styles. • All natural leather sole, just like before! • Survey data shows parents are 67% more likely to purchase Originals® with the new leather diamond tread sole.* pediped’s stylish and comfortable footwear ranges from newborn to size 33 EU (2 youth US) and has been awarded the Seal of Acceptance by the APMA.

www.pediped.com

New leather diamond tread reduces potential slipping!

*Survey of pediped customers conducted by pediped® footwear.

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Noelle Heffernan Publisher Jennifer Cattaui ;Z_jeh _d 9^_[\ Nancy Campbell 9h[Wj_l[ :_h[Yjeh ;:?JEH?7B Angela Velasquez <Wi^_ed ;Z_jeh Audrey Goodson Mary Avant Lyndsay McGregor 7iieY_Wj[ ;Z_jehi 9H;7J?L; Trevett McCandliss 7hj :_h[Yjeh Tim Jones I[d_eh :[i_]d[h 9EDJH?8KJEHI Michel Onofrio Ijob[ :_h[Yjeh

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Made in L.A. A_Zi cWdk\WYjkh[hi Wh[ _dYh[Wi_d]bo Y^eei_d] j^[ M[ij 9eWij el[h j^[ <Wh ;Wij$

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FEATURES 22 The Dean of Tween I^emheec emd[h ?b[d[ Eh[d ]_l[i ki j^[ ia_ddo ed m^Wj cWa[i j^[ jh[dZo jm[[d cWha[j j_Ya$

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This page, left to right: American Apparel T-shirt and socks, Notify jeans, Converse sneakers, bandana by Circa Early Halloween; 191 Unlimited button down shirt, Vintage Havana tank, denim shorts by Tractor, American Apparel socks, boots by Circa Early Halloween. On the cover, left to right: American Apparel T-shirt and socks, Notify jeans, Converse sneakers; Levi’s denim shirt, American Apparel T-shirt and socks, Notify jeans, suspenders by Scotch Shrunk, Converse sneakers; The Collection by Sara Sara leather jacket, Butterflies and Zebras tank, Notify jeans, boots by Circa Early Halloween; Timberland button down shirt, T-shirt by Colorfast, Notify jeans, boots by Circa Early Halloween.

Photography by Amanda Pratt.

EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) Vol. 96 Issue 2. The business and fashion magazine of the children’s wear industry is published monthly by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10003. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2012 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

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Tween Angels Happy days are here again for denim jeans and plain white tees.

EDITOR’S LETTER

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THE HAIRSPRAY WAS in full force for our February tween issue. Little rockabilly greasers with hair out to there did their best James Dean impressions and rocked an afternoon at the studio. Channeling the ’50s, with ducktail hairstyles, leather jackets, plain white tees, lollipops and soda pops, photographer Amanda Pratt captured the eternal cool of classic American denim in “Rebel Social Club.” Speaking of jeans, the once tried, true and blue staple has broadened its definition to include an array of colors, fabrications and prints, as seen in In Focus: Denim. We feature other fashionable faves in On Trend this month, namely hoodies for boys, jewelry for girls and fun, fresh bath goods for everyone. We also spoke with designer Sally Miller, a favorite brand in many tween girls’ closets, in Spotlight Apparel, and Mark Kohlenberg of Umi Children’s Shoes, a European-inspired brand adored by moms from every walk of life, in Spotlight Shoes. And technology gets top billing in Nine Things, where we survey some of the newest accessories for tech-savvy tweens. In our feature, “Social Skills,” we examine how social

media has changed the retail scene and the numerous opportunities to connect with the pre-teen customer online. We also sat down with Ilene Oren in “The Dean of Tween,” where she schools us all on the finer points of this fashion-forward generation. Interestingly, Oren reveals that the lions’ share of her collections hail from the West Coast. In fact, manufacturing in California seems to be a growing trend for many children’s brands, and in our feature, “Made in LA,” we talk to a host of companies who have chosen the closer west over the Far East. And for those looking to head west for the Las Vegas KIDShow this month, don’t miss our tips on the best places to go and things to do after hours in Sin City—activities, thankfully, that don’t have to stay in Vegas.

JENNIFER CATTAUI jennifer.cattaui@9threads.com

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talking points

Lovin’ Las Vegas WANT TO SPEND your Valentine’s Day with Earnshaw’s this year? (You know you do!) On February 14, Earnshaw’s will host buyer and brand cocktails at Bally’s from 4 to 5 p.m., for everyone traveling to KIDShow for Fall ’12 purchasing. Be assured, great matches will be made! Find out more at www.kidshow.cc.

Showroom Shuffle BE PREPARED FOR a few changes to the showroom scene as you enter the new buying season. First, Appaman and Pink Chicken debut their new showroom at 34 W. 33rd St. in Suite 308—where they replaced Lolligo—and will show off their well-established lines. “We were starting to entertain more clients while showing the collection, and our office location downtown wasn’t always super-convenient for buyers,” explains Lynn Husum, co-owner of Appaman. Although the Lolligo showroom is no longer on 33rd, it will continue to rep lines like Ferd, Reset, Europann, Ewers, Hanssop and Djaknemala. Turo Parc—with its Turo Parc and Penelope Mack lines—also moved into the W. 33rd building in Suite 306, while Klever Kids joined the building in October in Suite 1208. And Stephanie Jenner, former rep for Anais and I, has opened Le Passage showroom, featuring Petit Patapon, Little Paul & Joe and ESP No. 1, while Anais and I moved to a brighter space at 115 W. 30th St. in Suite 704.

Robar, Inc. Joins Cutie Pie Baby Family

Playground A NEW CHILDREN’S apparel trade show is set to launch later this year. The forces behind the West Coast showroom scene— Sandra Martinez and Hilary Beck at In Play and Sandy Roth at A La Mode—will debut Playground Kids Tradeshow this Aug. 21 to 22. The show will be held at The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas, and will coincide with KIDShow, Magic, Project and Platform, giving buyers making the trip even more bang for their buck. Organizers promise “some of the best children’s brand buyers and trends in an ideal atmosphere” that will include top-shelf amenities, like funky lunch boxes delivered to buyers’ booths, as well as a DJ spinning sleek, mood-boosting tunes. www.playgroundtradeshow.com.

Cutie Pie Baby President Eli Yedid inking the deal with Robar’s former owner Peter Dunbar.

ROBAR, INC., A 20-year veteran of the children’s clothing industry, has merged into children’s fashion house Cutie Pie Baby. Eli Yedid, president of Cutie Pie Baby, calls it “the perfect merger.” Cutie Pie Baby will be the surviving company and will step into the shoes of the $30-million-dollar business, driving Robar’s brands Babyworks and Mini Muffin. Many of the key employees, as well as Robar’s former owner Peter Dunbar, will stay on board. “It’s great on so many levels. We have 16 new factories to add to our roster, as well as new relationships with department stores like Lord & Taylor and Dillards and hundreds of specialty stores,” Yedid says. He also notes that because of Cutie Pie Baby’s efficient operating structure, he will be able to run the business at a significant cost savings. “It’s all about quality and value these days, and this deal will enable us to continue making great clothing and pass the savings on to the consumer,” he says. This is the second recent acquisition by Cutie Pie Baby, as the company acquired heritage playwear brand Rugged Bear in April 2011.

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Happy Birthday Earnshaw’s

In 1917, G.F. Earnshaw published the first issue of Earnshaw’s magazine, then dubbed The Infants’ Department. This May, we celebrate our 95th year in business. In 1921, the magazine took its first advertisement pages to help underwrite the production of a publication that had already become an important training manual for infants’ wear sales staff; an essential guide to new brands, trends and retail techniques; and a lifeline to other buyers and manufacturers. Our publication has supported the industry for nearly a century.

WANT TO BE A PART OF HISTORY? Contact Noelle Heffernan, Publisher at (646) 278-1531 or noelle.heffernan@9threads.com to find out about advertisement and sponsorship opportunities for our April/May anniversary issue and party. 7K=KIJ (&'' EARNSHAWS.COM 7

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fresh finds

Little feet can walk on the wild side with Zooligans by Roc-A-Bouts, a collection of animal-themed shoes for children ages 1 to 5. With details like molded eyes and straps that resemble dog collars, the collection offers a menagerie of animal characters, including a kitty, monkey, bunny, gator, panda, koala, puppy and raccoon. Available in a Mary Jane for girls and a fisherman sandal for boys and girls, the shoes wholesale for $21.50 and are made with leather uppers and a bottom that looks and flexes like a paw. Visit www.zooligans.net.

Socially and environmentally conscious home textile brand Handprint branches into the children’s market with the launch of Little Handprint, handcrafted designs for children sizes 6 months to 6X. Made in India using natural fabrics and sustainable techniques—from solar heating to rain water harvesting—the brand’s breezy silhouettes feature traditional patterns in a contemporary color palette of muted blues and citrus hues. Wholesale prices range from $8.50 for a jersey knit tank to $18 for a cotton voile printed dress, and a portion of the brand’s proceeds goes to organizations educating street children and children with physical and learning disabilities in India. Visit www. handprintonline.com.

Men’s swimwear brand Onia sizes down its upscale designs \eh Xeoi W][i , cedj^i je '* years, offering classic trunks in an array of bold solids, like slate, mimosa and coral, as well as red, blue, purple and yellow stripes. Dubbed the Charlie collection, the boys’ trunks will feature the brand’s signature fast-drying fabric blends, durable custom hardware made from antique nickel and soft mesh linings. Wholesale prices range from (. je )*$ L_i_j www.onia.com.

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Looking to boost the number of bright and modern apparel options on the market for infants, the makers of Little Me introduce Offspring, a layette collection for boys and girls from newborn to 9 months. Made of soft, 100 percent interlock cotton, the Spring ’12 collection includes footies, coveralls, rompers and dresses with leggings for girls and a three-piece pant set for boys, as well as blankets. For Fall ’12, the brand adds velour three-piece jacket sets and hoodies. Wholesale prices range from $10 to $20. Call (212) 279-4150.

With a name like Inmate Tease, it’s no wonder the brand’s bodysuits and T-shirts for infants and toddlers size newborn to 3T sport cheeky puns perfect for “juvenile delinquents.” Featuring a signature “inmate” in an array of kidfriendly activities—from sleeping (“Kidnapping”) and crying in a crib (“Resisting Arrest”) to holding a bottle (“Underage Drinking”), the cotton creations make an ideal shower or birthday gift and wholesale for $5.50. Visit www.inmatetease.com.

For style Sir Lancelot would love, look no further than Warrior Poet Clothier. The brand’s designs for boys sizes 2 to 14 combine the theme of medieval knights, samurais and modern-day warriors with a bit of artistic flair, like trompe l’oeil ties and guitar straps emblazoned on the brand’s combed-cotton jersey tees. For Fall ’12, the collection expands to include jeans, hooded sweatshirts and shoes. Wholesale prices range from $10 to $12. Visit www. warriorpoetclothier.com.

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hot properties

Scout’s Honor FANS OF SCRUMPTIOUS Samoas and tasty Thin Mints now have more Girl Scouts goodies to devour. Two new licensees are hopping on the Girl Scouts merchandising bandwagon to bring consumers everything from stationery to apparel, set to hit shelves in the spring. FkXb_i^_d] YecfWdo 9^hed_Yb[ 8eeai m_bb h[b[Wi[ W =_hb IYekji e\ j^[ KI7 Wiiehjc[dj e\ ]eeZi j^Wj includes a Girl Scout cookies journal, a vintage badge journal, and mix-and-match stationery. Apparel licens_d] Óhc @( B_Y[di_d] m_bb fheZkY[ W b_d[ e\ ]_hbiÊ WdZ juniors’ tops—including T-shirts, tank tops and layered looks—in bold colors and vintage styles. Retailers looking for more information about the lines can contact Jeanne Perry at ('( /(*#()((.

It’s a HIT for Mattel

Lego Gets Fantasy Fever WHAT DO YOU get when you mix building blocks with two of the biggest fantasy film series ever created? The BehZ e\ j^[ H_d]i WdZ J^[ >eXX_j B[]e i[ji MWhd[h 8hei$ Consumer Products and The Lego Group have teamed up to bring movie fans and toy lovers alike Lego construction sets based on The Lord of the Rings trilogy and two upcoming The Hobbit films, the first of which hits theaters in December. As part of the multi-year contract, Lego will begin releasing The Lord of the Rings-themed sets this June, with The >eXX_j0 7d Kd[nf[Yj[Z @ekhd[o products slated to launch later in the year. The two new licenses join the Lego ranks e\ ej^[h m_bZbo fefkbWh MWhd[h 8hei$ \hWdY^_i[i ikY^ Wi Harry Potter, Star Wars and Pirates of the Caribbean.

TOY GIANT MATTEL hit it out of the ballpark with the h[Y[dj ,.& c_bb_ed ZebbWh fkhY^Wi[ e\ ]beXWb fh[iY^eeb# brand firm HIT Entertainment. Mattel will now have access to such popular children’s properties as Thomas <h_[dZi" 8Whd[o" <_h[cWd IWc" 8eX j^[ 8k_bZ[h WdZ 7d][b_dW 8Wbb[h_dW" Wbb e\ m^_Y^ ][d[hWj[ ceh[ j^Wd '.& c_bb_ed _d h[l[dk[ [WY^ o[Wh$ <eh \khj^[h Z[jW_bi" YedjWYj Rachel Cooper at rachel.cooper@mattel.com.

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UNITED WE STAND.

www.unitedlegwear.com

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NINE THINGS

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Kikkerland cable tie

Tokidoki USB stick

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Pylones stereo dock

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iHome dual alarm clock speaker

Uglydolls iPhone case

6 7 Hello Kitty iPad sleeve

TECH IT OUT! Gifts and gadgets for trendy tweens.

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Kidrobot headphones

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Speck iPod Nano wristwatch

Budclicks earbud clips

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For babies only a e P o n S

Extraordinary garments for young sprouts! www.snopeawear.com EARN_13 13

SnoPea logo and “tag line” are registered trademarks of SnoPea, Inc. © 2012 SnoPea, Inc.

®

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ON TREND HOODIE

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UNDER THE HOOD 1 Bit’z Kids fleece hoodie 2 Colorfast cropped top 3 studded hoodie by Hope Jeans

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hoodie 5 Wildfox Kids hoodie with handkerchief hem 6 hoodie with quilted details by Miss Me 7 knit hoodie by Little Traveler 8 City Threads dinosaur hoodie 9 T2Love poncho 10 Olive Juice striped hoodie 11 Klever Kids hoodie with contrasting lining and elbow patches 12 Wes and Willy zipper hoodie 13 Kiddo chiffon-lined top 14 sleeveless hoodie by Mini & Maximus

PHOTOGRAPHER: TIM JONES. FASHION EDITOR: ANGELA VELASQUEZ

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ON TREND TWEEN JEWELRY

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BAUBLE POP 1 Paris-themed charm necklace by Atsuyo et Akiko 2 CG2 neon and crystal bracelet 3 Rolf Bleu crystal bracelet 4 Rae C feather and peace sign necklace 5 Peppercorn Kids blue bracelet with beads 6 Rockinrobin fabric-covered bangle set 7 Blee Inara deer pendant necklace 8 braided fabric bracelet by Arcobalena 9 Spark of Life by m3 girl designs turquoise heart necklace and bracelet 10 Wovenplay floral necklace 11 set of beaded bracelets by Trends R Us 12 bottle cap necklaces by Prissy Pop Tops 13 Vinca glittery key necklace 14 Charm It! by High IntenCity charm bracelet 15 MOGO magnetic charm bracelet

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ON TREND BATH

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SUDS UP 1 American Terry Co. hooded towel 2 whale waterspout by Safety 1st 3 Yikes Twins hooded towel 4 muslin washcloths by Aden + Anais 5 Rich Frog owl bath mitt and mini mitt 6 Little Giraffe body wash and lotion 7 Summer Infant whirlpool baby bathtub 8 bath toy by Boon 9 Puj Tub baby bathtub 10 Under the Nile organic cotton bath gown, wash mitt and plush toy 11 Badger baby soap 12 embroidered hooded towel by AM PM Kids 13 bath thermometer by Mobi 14 Out of Africa soap 15 Mimi the Sardine waterproof zipper pouch

PHOTOGRAPHER: TIM JONES. FASHION EDITOR: ANGELA VELASQUEZ

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SPOTLIGHT APPAREL

Sizing: 7-16 years Wholesale: $17-$ 54

Tweenage Dream Sally Miller reigns supreme with fashion-forward and always-chic tween styles.

w

ho says hearing voices is always a bad thing? Just ask Sally Miller, creator and designer of her namesake tween apparel brand. Ç?d Del[cX[h (&&," ? mea[ kf to a very quiet voice that said it was time to go out on my own,” she recalls. “It literally woke me up out of a dead sleep.” Miller, who at the time was recently divorced and living with her two tween daughters, answered the call. Within months, she was shipping out her first fall collection. While starting a brand from scratch may not be that cut and dry for most, Miller’s previous experience in the tween market helped pave the way. She’s been designing pre-teen Ybej^[i \eh ceh[ j^Wd (& o[WhiÆijWhj_d] \_hij m_j^ I_ij[h I_ij[h _d '/.-ÆcWa_d] ^[h W f_ed[[h _d j^[ _dZkijho$ I_dY[ the launch of Sally Miller just four years ago, Miller has continued to see remarkable success. “My brand is trendy, sophisticated, fresh, modern and always age-appropriate,” says Miller, who emphasizes the last characteristic. “It’s one of the single most important things to me as a designer and a mom,” she explains. “I want the buyer feeling safe when she is purchasing my clothes.” Not only is Miller’s line carried by big name retailers like DehZijhec" 8beec_d]ZWb[Êi" D[_cWd CWhYki WdZ IWai <_\j^ 7l[dk[" Wi m[bb Wi jh[dZo Xekj_gk[i b_a[ <h[Z I[]Wb" i^[ mWi also featured on The Today Show this past October, when she worked with New Jersey-based Gotham Clothing to showYWi[ j^[ ^ejj[ij \Wbb jh[dZi$ 8kj m^_b[ i^[ cWa[i _j beea b_a[ a breeze, Miller is quick to warn that meeting the demands e\ j^[ jm[[d cWha[j _i de [Wio \[Wj$ ÇOek ^Wl[ je kdZ[hijWdZ j^Wj ]_hbi Wh[ Yec_d] _dje j^_i cWha[j m^[d j^[oÊh[ . WdZ j^[oÊh[ ijWo_d] j^hek]^ j^[_h '(j^ o[Wh"È i^[ ijWj[i$ ÇJ^[ X_]gest challenge is how you design something that both age groups will want to wear. It’s a very fine line of not being too

young and not too old, and that comes with experience and intuition.” <eh \Wbb" C_bb[h fbWdi je i^em e\\ ceh[ ifehjim[Wh WdZ \Wi^ion tops while experimenting more with textures and fabric c_n_d]Æjh[dZi i^[ iWoi ^Wl[ X[[d fWii[Z Zemd \hec j^[ women’s market. Although her collection may be considered pricey, she says it’s value that really matters, noting that if a customer sees worth in an item, she’ll purchase it. “Some of my most expensive items have been my bestsellers.” Looking to the future, Miller is eager to expand her KdZ[hYel[h Yebb[Yj_edÆW b_d[ e\ _dj_cWj[i _dYbkZ_d] ded#m_h[ XhWi WdZ )#fWYa ^_fij[h kdZ[hm[WhÆWdZ _djheZkY[ W oekd] contemporary line, which will feature dresses skewed toward older girls. She was inspired to branch into bigger sizes, she notes, after observing the Obama children and Nickelodeon’s 8_] J_c[ Hki^ characters sporting her styles. Not to mention, her own growing girls were clamoring for more options. Miller adds: “I even get moms in my store asking for my clothes in their size.” —Mary Avant

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SPOTLIGHT SHOES

Sizing: Infant’s 1-Women’s 10 (European 16-42) Wholesale: $25-$40

Style, By Way of Europe U.S. brand Umi taps into its European roots to produce fashionable, value-driven shoes for the kids of everyday moms and A-list celebs. SOME BUSINESSES ARE launched after years of careful, meticulous planning. Others— as Mark Kohlenberg, president of Milwaukeebased Umi Children’s Shoes, can attest to—are born out of sheer necessity. After the largescale European shoe brand he headed went out of business in 2004, Kohlenberg had to act fast. “I had a mortgage and two little kids at the time, so I immediately started Umi,” he explains. Because of his reputation as head of a European shoe company, many customers and retailers view Umi as European, meaning the brand competes directly with several similarly positioned brands in Europe. This international influence doesn’t just affect the consumer perception of Umi; it also shapes the brand’s aesthetic. With several in-house and freelance designers who travel the world for ideas, “we have a good, solid mix of inspiration and design,” Kohlenberg says. Known for offering sneakers and waterproof shoes for boys and tall boots and sweet flats for girls, Umi shoes are what Kohlenberg calls bohemian and playful, “with a flair for style.” Umi targets young mothers who want to outfit their kids in the most modern, fashionable

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looks. “This is a consumer with a stylish viewpoint who doesn’t want to dress her kids like everyone else on the block,” Kohlenberg points out. “Today’s mom is looking for quality and style, and with Umi in particular, she’s looking for a point of difference.” These points of difference include recycled products and natural materials, lightweight options, and leather linings and footbeds. In fact, this dedication to high-quality materials and workmanship has snagged Umi some famous fans, including A-listers like Jennifer Garner and Kelly Ripa. Kohlenberg, who says Umi has been cultivating relationships with celebrities over the years, appreciates the attention. “It just validates everything we’re doing product-wise, value-wise and style-wise.” However, Kohlenberg notes that the brand’s acceptance by the rich and famous doesn’t make Umi shoes out-of-reach for the everyday consumer. “The nice thing about Umi is it’s an accessible product,” he explains. “We’re sold everywhere from Nordstrom to Zappos.” This fall, Umi is planning a major overhaul of its former line. “We’ve really taken the collection from the ground up and refreshed it,” Kohlenberg says. Riding the waves of success the brand has seen with its slip-on moccasins, Umi plans to triple its SKU count for the silhouette in Fall ’12. In addition, the brand will introduce a few fresh boys’ collections. “Boys, for years, have been the forgotten gender,” Kohlenberg says. “But boys’ shoes don’t have to be dumb products anymore.” The Sunday Monday collection, a line of fashionable shoes for all occasions, are “perfect for school but could also be worn for a dinner or out to church,” he notes, while the Uniform collection outfits boys who require private school shoes. Kohlenberg also plans to expand the Sport collection, which is known for its machine-washable sneakers with anti-bacterial footbeds. Umi intends to continue its overseas expansion, Kohlenberg adds. “We’ve had a rapid increase in our international distribution,” he says, noting the company’s presence in areas like Asia and Australia. “It helps the product get better, just because we have more input.” And a better product means a more fashionable shoe. “Children’s shoes should have a degree of style. There’s no reason footwear should be the second sister or forgotten brother when dressing a child.” —M.A.

1/23/12 10:10 AM


IN FOCUS DENIM ing its first straight leg pant for boys in raw, untreated dark denim. “We’re keeping the denim really basic,” says La Miniatura Chief Operating Officer, Stacey 8Whd[l[bZ$ ÇJ^WjÊi m^Wj m[Êh[ hearing from the adult buyers— that dark and straight retails well for men.”

Color Forms

While demand for dark denim overwhelmingly beats out light washes, designers report a buzz over color denim. “We are offering some tried-and-true rinses with a twist of new color injection,” reports !It Jeans kids’ sales manager Janet Pace, naming deep purples, tobacco, jades and rich shades of pink as primary hues. Diane Kuczer, Z[i_]d Z_h[Yjeh e\ JhWYjeh" iWoi" “Color is still strong, just more muted and richer than some of the brights we saw for spring.” J^[ XhWdZ _i a[o_d] _dje Xbk[ denim with green and gray tints, as well as sunflower yellow and paprika orange—earthy shades that Parigi’s boys’ lines are also tapping into. Diesel is taking a muted approach to color with its sprayed denim treatment in green indigo, gray blue, cloudy black, navy and bone brown. Like a classic white tee, bling and embroidery go hand in hand with jeans and with this season’s abundance of solid dark denim. After a brief hiatus—thanks to rising cotton costs and a leggings “Clean washes call for embelcraze—designers agree: Denim is back. And although colorful denim gives b_i^c[dj"È iWoi <_da[bij[_d e\ the look a new twist, old blue reigns king with a crop of easy-to-wear FWh_]_$ J^[ b_Y[diehÊi :ADO =_hb line includes a cut-off short that washes and statement-making textures. BY ANGELA VELASQUEZ ^Wi m^Wj <_da[bij[_d Z[iYh_X[i as “a Moroccan-global vibe” with embroidery on the front and touches of mixed media on the Ink Spot back pockets. Sparkly tops with dark blue denim is the go-to holiday uniform for Along with ruffles and bows on back pockets, Vee Lapnarongchai, crewomen and juniors, so it should come as no surprise that dark skinny ative director of Mali Kids, is adding quilted stitching around the knee jeans are a must-have for girls this season. “We have a Night Out dark for a biker look. Diesel is in stitches, too, with embroidered logos on blue and a denim legging with a fully-functional zipper brought down some styles. “We’re using stitching for a bit of pop,” says Pagliaro about from our juniors’ line that have been getting a great reaction from girls’ B[l_Êi$ J^[ XhWdZ jWa[i W ceh[ YbWii_Y WffheWY^ je ij_jY^_d] Z[jW_bi _d buyers,” says Kate Pagliaro, account executive and Levi’s brand coordithe girls’ collection, pairing heavy white stitching on dark denim and nator at Haddad. “Dark-finished, inky blue indigo denim is key for fall,” introducing a shadow stitch that has navy thread beneath white thread W]h[[i IWdZhW <_da[bij[_d" l_Y[ fh[i_Z[dj e\ Z[i_]d \eh FWh_]_ =hekf$ for added dimension. Along those same lines, Levi’s is incorporating “Even the manufacturer’s medium wash is still pretty dark,” she adds. subtle hints of sparkle to denim with pink crystals on button tabs and a Also taking its cues from the adult world, La Miniatura is introducsmattering of tiny gems along back pockets.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY TIM JONES

DENIM & SUPPLY

Jean Genie

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1/23/12 3:52 PM


style’s silver studded belt loops are a riff on rockers’ heavy studded belts. Studs are just part of a movement towards heavy metal: A slew of silver-tinted jeans are poised to hit the market. Brands like Notify, DKNY Girl and La Miniatura are dishing out silvery gray and charcoal bottoms.

Appaman

Wes and Willy

Work & Play

Diesel La Miniatura

Levi’s

!It

Diesel

Rock On

Call it the Guitar Hero effect—designers see a demand for more skinny black jeans with a rock vibe. In the last couple of seasons, Levi’s skinny 511 in black has been one of the best-selling silhouettes for boys in the 8 to 20 size range, and Pagliaro projects it to be No. 1 again for Fall ’12. A bit of stretch in the fabrication helps keep its sharp rocker edge wash after wash, she says, noting that the trend is trickling down to smaller boys 4 to 7, where in the past traditional blue jeans ruled. Pace of !It Jeans reports the brand’s skinny roll up is gaining traction as an alternative to the standard narrow leg—noting the cut shows off this season’s crop of killer motorcycle boots. DKNY Girl also strikes the right chord with a pair of skinny rocker-fit pants. The

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With denim being a central part of the Americana work-wear trend that has permeated the market during the last couple of seasons, manufacturers are plotting more distressed designs. Relaxed washes with a vintage look are key to Wes and Willy’s fall line for boys. Bill Mullen, the brand’s owner and head designer, says the look is still classic with narrow fits, but scuffed up a bit with some tears. “Distressed denim is what Diesel is known for,” says Maddie Lazo, director of sales for Diesel Kids. In addition to the spray colored denim, the brand manually whiskered and abraised denim and added more tricks to its 3D evolution wash with a resin treatment and stone wash.

Blue Print

Not only enhancing their treatments, more brands are also honing their printing techniques. Tractor is working in check, houndstooth and leopard prints on tonal navy blue denim. !It Jeans is expanding color options for its leopard print skinny and sizing down the eye-catching style to the 4 to 6x crowd. “We’re offering the print in purple and feel it will translate down to the younger girl with ease, where darker colors would not,” Pace explains.

Pre-Fab

Lapnarongchai of Mali Kids says the key to kids’ denim is to make the fabric as soft and easy-to-wear as possible. Levi’s is answering the demand for softer fabrications with a new sateen-finished jegging in jewel tone shades of plum and teal. Look for a cotton/spandex jegging with a lush suede hand by Tractor. For a bolder fashion statement, the company is adding a coated denim pant made to look like leather and is expanding its range of color mini rail cords. Barneveld of La Miniatura says skinny corduroy pants are one way retailers can break up a wall of blue. The brand’s simple five-pocket skinny corduroy pants flew out of Barney’s last season, merchandising well with the line’s skinny jeans and denim jackets. For this season, La Miniatura is adding burnt orange, grasshopper green, oxblood and cobalt. Appaman is betting on cords in bright Yebehi" jee" \eh Xeoi WdZ ]_hbi$

1/23/12 3:53 PM


ILENE OREN PROFESSES HER PASSION FOR THE MARKET SEGMENT THAT MAKES AND BREAKS RULES AS IT TRIES ON TRENDS THAT WILL DEFINE COOL IN SCHOOL.

hen it comes to young fashion, Ilene Oren is head of the class. She began her career at Glenora Juniors, but when she had children, she decided to call it quits from her daily commute to the city in order to have a more flexible schedule as a road rep for children’s brands. Oren’s sister-in-law hooked her up with a couple labels and she set up shop, she recalls, “with a telephone book, a bridge table and a bridge chair.” Today, perched on the fifteenth floor of a 39th Street high-rise, she’s aswim in frayed shorts, eye-popping denim and asymmetrical tees, WdZ ^[h [djho mWbb _i W fWfWhWpp_#ijob[ m^eÊi m^e e\ oekd] \Wi^_ed_ijWi \hec j^[ 8[bjmWo je 8[l[hbo >_bbi Zh[ii[Z _d ^[h Ç_jÈ XhWdZi" -+ f[hY[dj e\ m^_Y^ Wh[ \hec 9Wb_\ehd_W" i^[ estimates. Her philosophy is like an Escher painting: Tween is best done top down rather than bottom up, she says, as it’s informed by the adult fashion world and is not simply a sleeker version of toddler wear. However, she has sized-up her tweens and is venturing into the young contemporary market, something doable because her younger lines already took their finer points from big sister. ?d ^[h '/ o[Whi _d j^[ Xki_d[ii" i^[Êi i[[d j^[ jm[[d cWha[j ]hem \hec j^[ kff[h [dZ e\ children’s to a department all its own, complete with separate sections, stores and buyers. ÇM^[d ? ijWhj[Z" Xko[hi mekbZ fkhY^Wi[ jmeÊi WYheii" \hec i_p[ ( je i_p[ '*"È i^[ bWk]^i$ It’s a concept that’s hard to believe when you take a look at the distinct personal styles of Miley Cyrus, Taylor Swift and Selena Gomez, fashion plates for the younger set: They certainly wouldn’t be caught in supersized versions of little sister’s ensembles. “Tween is much more sophisticated now. Tweens study each other, and celebrities, to see what they are wearing and how they are wearing it. They educate their moms as to what goes je][j^[h"È Eh[d iWoi$ Ç?\ oek beea Wj Wdo - je '*#o[Wh Z[fWhjc[dj" oekÊbb i[[ j^[ jm[[d ]_hb leading and the mom following behind.” Some finer points for tween dressing, according to Oren: “Layering and elongating is important. Crucial to the tween wardrobe are frayed

PHOTOGRAPHY BY MCCANDLISS&CAMPBELL

THE DEAN OF TWEEN 22 ;7HDI>7MI$9EC <;8HK7HO (&'(

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BY JENNIFER CATTAUI

shorts, hi-top sneakers, colored jeans, crocheted T-shirts, jeggings, zip hoodies, fedY^ei WdZ jWdai kdZ[h [l[hoj^_d]$È >[h _dij_dYjkWb fhem[ii el[h jm[[d _i j^[ byproduct of constant studying, talking to Xko[hi WdZ h[jW_b[hi" Yecckd_YWj_d] m_j^ her manufacturers, going to fabric marts WdZ jhWZ[ i^emi" i^eff_d] j^[ cWha[j WdZ key contemporary stores, and reading fash_ed jh[dZ \eh[YWiji$ I^[ mehai ^WhZ je j[WY^ WdZ YebbWXehWj[ m_j^ ^[h h[jW_b[hi WdZ Xkoers so the styles are perfectly displayed to cWa[ cWn_ckc h[jW_b _cfWYj$ J^[ W\\WXbo Wj#[Wi[ Eh[d edbo ijkcXb[i m^[d gk[h_[Z WXekj ^[h emd f[hiedWb ijob[" Xkj m_j^ekj ia_ff_d] W X[Wj" ^[h h_]^j ^WdZ" D_Yeb[ Akd]" cWdW][h e\ j^[ i^emheecÊi IT and administrative departments, steps _d m_j^ Ç[begk[dj" ^_f WdZ jh[dZo"È WZZ_d]" ÇI^[ j^hemi _d W X_j e\ Xe^[c_Wd" \kda WdZ rock and roll influences, pairing leggings m_j^ Yeeb jefi WdZ ia_ddo `[Wdi m_j^ c_b_jWho `WYa[ji$È M^[h[Wi j^[ jm[[d cWha[j _i ed[ h[fb[j[ m_j^ [nYbWcWj_ed fe_dji" Eh[d i[[i Wd [bb_fi_i$ Ç? ZedÊj j^_da m[Êl[ [l[d iYhWjY^[Z j^[ ikh\WY[ _d jm[[d$ J^[ cWha[j ^WidÊj i[[d Wdoj^_d] o[j $ $ $È When did the tween market change? ?j ^Wff[d[Z _d j^[ c_Z Ê/&iÆcWoX[ '//,$ ? mWi ed j^[ heWZ WdZ ? ^WZ b_d[i \eh XWX_[i" Wi m[bb Wi ^Wji WdZ b[]]_d] i[ji" Xkj co fWii_ed mWi WbmWoi \eh `kd_ehi WdZ jm[[di$ 7i ? m[dj je ijeh[i" ? mWjY^[Z j^[ a_Zi" WdZ I could see they had strong personalities WdZ ijhed] ef_d_edi WXekj j^[_h Ybej^_d]$ ? j^ek]^j j^Wj j^[h[ mWi W d[[Z \eh Yeeb WdZ jh[dZo \Wi^_ed _d j^_i cWha[j WdZ j^WjÊi mWdj ? mWdj[Z je \eYki ed$ ? Zheff[Z j^[ XWXo b_d[i WdZ a[fj j^[ jm[[d b_d[i$ 7 bej e\ professionals in the business gave me the WZl_Y[ j^Wj ? ^WZ je X[ W \kbb i^emheec" YWhho_d] j^[ \kbb hWd][ e\ jeZZb[h" * je ,n WdZ WYY[iieh_[i" Xkj \eh c[ _j Z_ZdÊj \[[b h_]^j$ ? Z[Y_Z[Z ? mWdj[Z je if[Y_Wb_p[ _d m^Wj ? ad[m X[ij WdZ mWi ceij Yec\ehjWXb[ m_j^$ ? mWdj[Z j^[ h[jW_b[h je \[[b j^Wj j^_i i^emheec mekbZ e\\[h j^[c [l[hoj^_d] j^[o mekbZ mWdj \eh j^[_h jm[[d Z[fWhjc[dj" WdZ ? d[[Z[Z je cWa[ ikh[ m[ m[h[ h[Wbbo ]eeZ Wj _j$ What’s unique about the tween consumer? J^[i[ ZWoi" a_Zi Wh[ ijWhj_d] je Z[Y_Z[ m^Wj j^[o mWdj je m[Wh Wj ) o[Whi ebZ$ ? ^Wl[ ^[WhZ _j el[h WdZ el[h$ Ie Xo j^[ j_c[ j^[o

Wh[ jm[[di" j^[o Wh[ m[bb _dje j^[_h ijob[ WdZ adem m^Wj j^[o mWdj$ J^[o Wh[ jejWb \Wi^_ed_ijWi$ J^[o Wh[ ef_d_edWj[Z WdZ dej W\hW_Z je iWo m^Wj j^[o b_a[$ CWdo j_c[i co Xko[hi m_bb Xh_d] j^[_h jm[[d ZWk]^j[hi m_j^ j^[c je Wffe_djc[dji WdZ i^emi m^[d j^[o Ze dej ^Wl[ iY^eeb$ ? adem m^[d ? i[[ j^[ ZWk]^j[h _d jem j^Wj m[ m_bb ^Wl[ ekh meha Ykj ekj \eh ki$ ?\ i^[ Ze[idÊj b_a[ m^Wj cec _i Xko_d]" i^[Êbb b[j ^[h adem$ 8kj b_a[m_i[" i^[Êi gk_Ya je iWo" Ç? YWdÊj X[b_[l[ oekÊh[ dej Xko_d] j^WjÆ_jÊi ie Yeeb$ Oek d[[Z j^Wj _d oekh ijeh[$È

TWEEN FASHIONS FROM THE ILENE OREN SHOWROOM

Tractor jean shorts

This is a very instant gratification-driven demographic. Have you seen buying patterns change over the years? J^[ cWha[j _i dej `kij W i^em Wdoceh[$ ?jÊi j^[ \_hij ZWo e\ j^[ i^em je j^h[[ cedj^i bWj[h$ M_j^ cWdo Xko[hi fh[\[hh_d] je i^ef _d j^[ i^emheec ie j^[o ^Wl[ Wcfb[ j_c[" there are constant reorders and lots of f^ed[ WYj_l_jo$ ?jÊi W d[l[h#[dZ_d] fheY[ii$ J^[h[ _i l[ho b_jjb[ Zemdj_c[" m^_Y^ _i W medZ[h\kb j^_d]$ 7bie" \bem e\ ]eeZi ^Wi Y^Wd][Z gk_j[ W X_j$ M^[h[Wi ekh X_] i^_ff_d] f[h_eZi Yedtinue to be January and February, July and 7k]kij" WdZ EYjeX[h WdZ Del[cX[h" Xko[hi Wh[ dem fhel_d] je X[ _dj[h[ij[Z _d Xh_d]_d] _d d[m fheZkYj Zkh_d] ded#jhWZ_j_edWb j_c[i$ J^[ Ykijec[h _i h[WYj_d] je d[md[ii" WdZ m^[d i^[ ademi j^Wj W ijeh[ m_bb WbmWoi ^Wl[ iec[j^_d] d[m WdZ [nY_j_d]" i^[ m_bb mWdj je i^ef ceh[ e\j[d$ M[ Wh[ beea_d] je X[ ceh[ _d jkd[ m_j^ j^[ i^_ff_d] f[h_eZi e\ j^[ oekd] Yedj[cfehWho cWha[j$ ?\ oek \bem j^[ c[hY^WdZ_i[ WdZ a[[f _j \h[i^" j^[o m_bb Yec[$ I noticed you had a new website for buyers. What’s been the response? Ekh m[Xi_j[ _i D_Yeb[Êi XWXo$ I^[Êi X[[d j[bb_d] c[ je Ze j^_i \eh o[Whi$ ?j ^Wi X[[d b_l[ \eh WXekj W cedj^$ M[ i^ej Wbb )"&&& ]Whc[dji \hec ekh i^emheec" WdZ Xko[hi be] _d WdZ YWd i^ef Wi j^[o mekbZ ed khXWdekj\_jj[hi$Yec eh Wdo ej^[h i_j[$ Je a[[f _j Ykhh[dj" m[Êh[ YedijWdjbo kfZWj_d] _dl[djeho$ J^[i[ ZWoi" Xko[hi Wh[ Xko_d] icWbb[h Wcekdji ceh[ e\j[d$ ?Êc WYjkWbbo ie ^Wffo WXekj j^Wj$ DeXeZo mWdji je X[ ijkYa m_j^ _dl[djeho" Wi _dl[djeho m_bb ikYa kf fhe\_ji$ J^[o h[WYj je m^Wj _i meha_d] WdZ YWd Xko WYYehZ_d]bo$ J^[ Xko[hi Wh[ medZ[h\kb0 7\j[h j^[o ][j W i^_fc[dj" j^[oÊbb YWbb m_j^_d W m[[a

Rolf Bleu watch

Kiddo dress

Wildfox Kids T-shirt

Rolf Bleu bracelet

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if they had a good sell-through to reorder, and they won’t necessarily reorder exactly the same thing. Let’s say a red jean sold—they might reorder a little more of the red, but then they might try another color, too. If something’s completely gone, they can choose another item that’s similar to what they wanted to pick up, that also brings in the “newness” and keeps it fresh. We also have buyers who, because of cutbacks, can only get to New York one time a year. But they know our lines—the fit and quality—and are comfortable placing orders online. It’s a whole new world now: The consumer is going online, looking at blogs and sites. My buyer needs to be able to do the same. I will do what I can to help the retailers. Without them, I don’t exist. Has anything surprised you in this market? Not really. I would have been surprised if the tween market wasn’t where it is today. Does your tween customer ever surprise you? A couple shows ago, a young girl was sitting at my booth and she was fabulous, wearing a ballerina skirt and hi-top sneakers, a great hat and jacket. You knew she wasn’t your average 10-yearold. I went over to her and said hello and asked, “Do you have a store?” She said no and I said, “I noticed you were taking notes, and by the way, you look wonderful.” She thanked me and then told me she was a blogger and she was going to blog about one of my lines, which she loved and was wearing. She asked for my card in case she needed more information. It turns out she was also an actress in the Broadway show The Lion King. I thought, “Wow, now I’ve seen it all.”

to capture every possible trend. It’s crazy, but the designers tell me that the best pieces come out at the end. Whatever arrives the night before the show is usually among the best pieces. Over the last year, your showroom has expanded into the young contemporary market. Why was that? Like with tween, I saw another hole in the market. The tween customer is so fashion-forward, and she’s not going back. She’s just getting more so and will be in need of new trends and more looks. As it was, she was moving from my tween brands to a $200 jean, a $180 sweater and a $98 T-shirt. On the other hand, she’s shopping at mass stores like Forever 21 and H&M. My tweens are definitely buying from these places, and the price points are such that my specialty stores can’t compete. When you can’t compete, you just need to do it in a different way and bring something new to the plate. Buyers were telling us that they had clients who wanted to keep shopping with them, but their daughters are growing out of the sizing. To meet the market, they wanted to bring in young contemporary, but had a problem: They couldn’t go from $50 jeans to $150 jeans as they sized up— they needed something in between. So we decided to capture this market. We were doing it anyway, as we had a few brands that started in contemporary and worked down to tween, and I knew I could reach out to them for young contemporary. These days, I am focused on the young contemporary market, and Amy [Ackerman, tween division manager] handles the day-to-day tween business.

“THE TWEEN IS SO FASHIONFORWARD, AND SHE’S NOT GOING BACK. SHE’S JUST GETTING MORE SO AND WILL NEED NEW TRENDS AND MORE LOOKS.”

For the tween market, what sort of trends do you see coming down the pipeline for Fall 2012? I’ll tell you what I’m seeing, but it’s only part of the pie. There will continue to be color on the bottom. Some of the drabness is over—we’ll have deep colors and deep tones instead of just black, charcoal and camel. We’ll also have more fabrications on the bottom. Jeans and denim will have color, as well as coated fabrics, snake fabrics, velvets and cords. This market is huge and we’re going to take full advantage of jeans in many different fabrics. We’ve tried flares, but skinny wins. On top, there will be color blocking, lots of crochet and lace trims, different stripings and hints of femininity incorporated. There will be a lot of sweatering and knits and tons of cardigans and jackets—many with different trims. The ’70s influence is everywhere. I think it will be a big influence in silhouettes. The uneven hems will be around, and the high-lows that have survived for a while will be updated and reinvented. There’s also a lot of mixed media in fashion for Fall 2012. We will mix our knits with crepe, leather, sweater, prints, crochet, stripes and a broad variety of fabrics. But as I said, this is just the beginning. We’ll know more in February, as we work early but don’t stop until the shows

Is capturing this new market why you moved from 131 W. 33rd, near many of the children’s brands, to 260 W. 39th, closer to many of the contemporary market brands? Yes. The young contemporary buyer is right here. The ones that already knew us bought from us on 33rd, but there’s a whole world that didn’t know us. We work with buyers that might have tween stores that carry contemporary; contemporary stores that might have a tween department; department stores; and multi-chain stores that are young contemporary to contemporary. There are so many stores where contemporary is the right fit, and it works for many different types of young adult to adult stores. We’ve hit on the right design, right trend, right time and right price. Some of our brands in young contemporary are Lovemarks, Tractor Jeans, T2Love, and Butterflies and Zebras. We’re keeping it very trim and tight for now but certainly look forward to an expansion with more of our existing lines venturing into this category. We’re already in 150 specialty stores with our young contemporary collections. Any parting thoughts? I am so grateful for the stores that we have and I think together we weathered the storm. And if there’s anything that’s recession-proof, it’s the tween girl. We can always count on her to want something new, and ^ef[\kbbo" m[ m_bb ^Wl[ _j$

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Royal Couture by Limeapple

1.800.359.5171 www.limeapple.ca

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By

Lyndsay

McGregor

Social Skills From Twitter to Tumblr, target the tween demographic where it goes to talk and play: online.

THE NAME OF the game in retail is to be where your custom[hi Wh[" WdZ _\ j^[oÊh[ jm[[di" oekÊZ X[jj[h X[j j^WjÊi OekJkX[" <WY[Xeea" Jm_jj[h" JkcXbh WdZ Wd [l[h#]hem_d] b_ij e\ ieY_Wb i_j[i$ B[_]^ M^_jd[o" emd[h e\ B[l[b (" W 8heeabod" DO#XWi[Z jm[[d# WffWh[b ijeh[ ijeYa_d] jm[[d \Wleh_j[i b_a[ >WhW`kak Bel[hi WdZ Desigual Kids, agrees: “It’s easier for our customers to reach out je ki WdZ i^Wh[ _d\ehcWj_ed WXekj j^[ ijeh[ m_j^ [l[hoed[ _d j^[_h f[hiedWb d[jmehai$È J^_i if_Z[h m[X e\ f[[h#je#f[[h i^Wh_d] _i [l[ho h[jW_b[hÊi Zh[WcÆWdZ Xki_d[ii[i bWh][ WdZ icWbb Wh[ ^ec_d] _d j^[_h ieY_Wb c[Z_W c[iiW][i ed j^[ Yel[j[Z fh[#j[[d WkZ_[dY[ in an effort to foster brand awareness and ultimately woo them to their stores. So, you want to capture the attention of the tween scene? Here’s how.

Express Yourself

Lora Cecere, an analyst who studies social media at Altimeter Group in San Mateo, CA, urges brands to bear in mind that social media is about relationships, not transactions. “One of the things j^Wj j^[o ^Wl[ je b[Whd _d Yheii_d] j^[ Y^Wic _i j^Wj _j _idÊj WXekj them, it’s about the tween and really helping the tween to express ^[h WX_b_jo je X[ W \Wi^_ed_ijW$È She uses Wet Seal, a store that encourages customer interaction ed _ji <WY[Xeea fW][" Wi W fh_c[ [nWcfb[$ Ed[ e\ _ji YWcfW_]di" W ceZ[b i[WhY^" _dlebl[Z W ieY_Wb c[Z_W Yedj[ij m^[h[ j^[ m_dd[h h[Y[_l[Z W f^eje i^eej WdZ Wd _djheZkYj_ed je W ceZ[b_d] W][dYo$ Ki_d] <WY[Xeea j[Wi[hi WdZ W OekJkX[ fhecej_ed j^Wj _dl_j[Z Yedikc[hi je lej[ ed j^[ X[ij l_Z[ei \hec Wif_h_d] ceZ[bi" j^[

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Digital Dynamos

YouTube Inspired Annie, an 11-year-old from White Plains, NY, says she looks to YouTube for ideas from her favorite fashion and beauty gurus, recreating their outfits with what’s in her closet. “I like to watch those videos to get a better idea of fashion trends and see what goes, what doesn’t and what’s in style. I like to see where they shop,” she reveals.

Tumblr Trendsetter Dante, a 13-year-old Scotch Plains, NJ, native, prides himself on being “online all the time,” citing Facebook, Twitter and Tumblr as his three favorite haunts. But rather than surf those sites for deals and coupon codes for his favorite skate clothing brands, he uses them to cement his rep as a trendsetter, posting photos of his new soccer cleats or sneakers for his friends to comment on: “I started wearing Supras first, and now everyone in my grade wears them.” PHOTOGRAPH BY DEAN POWELL

campaign added 100,000 new Facebook fans for the retailer and 300,000 YouTube views of j^[ l_Z[ei$ 7bj^ek]^ M[j I[Wb serves a slightly older customer, its strategy of weaving clients into its world through social media channels is one that can X[ WZWfj[Z je Wdo Z[ce]hWf^_Y$ Fashion Playtes, a DIY fashion destination for girls aged 5 to 12, harnesses the power of self-expression with its site, where budding fashionistas can create their own unique clothing—customizing color, silhouette, design and even label—and have them shipped h_]^j je j^[_h ^ec[i$ Ç=_hbi Wh[ growing up with all these tools at their fingertips,” says Fashion FbWoj[i 9;E IWhW^ CY?bheo$ Ç?\ we can give them a platform and really leverage their interest, it can be powerful,” she WZZi$ D[m Z[i_]di _dYehfehWj[ licensed properties like Littlest F[j I^efÆW \Wleh_j[ \eh j^_i Z[ce]hWf^_Y$ I_dY[ bWkdY^_d] _d 2009, the site has evolved into a Yecckd_jo0 Ç=_hbi YWd iWl[ kf to 300 designs in their collection and share them with family and \h_[dZi"È iWoi CY?bheo" WZZ_d]" ÇJ^[ h[Wb c[iiW][ ^[h[ _i j^Wj we want them talking to each ej^[h$È Enabling a conversation is something accessories chain 9bW_h[Êi ]ej ed XeWhZ m_j^ m^[d it launched its e-commerce site last year, combining editorial content with embedded shopping features so visitors could shop by theme and looks or based on recommendations \hec Xbe]][hi$ ÇJ^[ [Z_jeh_Wb and style blogger content opens doors to a collaborative dialogue between the brand and its customers,” says Richard 9^h_ij_Wdi[d" \ekdZ[h WdZ Yh[Wj_l[ Z_h[Yjeh e\ 9^WdZ[b_[h 9h[Wj_l[" m^_Y^ Z[l[bef[Z 9bW_h[i$Yec$ ÇJ^[o YWd fWhj_Y_pate in spontaneous and reallife interactions and directly influence the fashion content \[Wjkh[Z [WY^ ZWo$ Ijob[ jkjeh_als based on seasonal trends and new product are also great

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Get Social, Think Local

Sweety High

“THEY WANT FASHION. THEY WANT COOL. SO THEY GO WHERE COOL IS.�

PlumWillow

Ä‘ĆŤ $+0+/ĆŤ$ 2!ĆŤ0$!ĆŤ$%#$!/0ĆŤ.!/,+*/!ĆŤ rate out of all posts on Facebook, so upload shots of your displays and ask your tween fans to submit ideas for promotions or product enhancement.

Fashion Playtes

merchandising tools to maximize cross-selling opportunities,� Christiansen notes.

Game On

Specialty retailers have an advantage when it comes to social media because “the volume of conversations is often less than big box stores, so they are able to respond to everyone,� says Beth Schillaci, president and founder of VillageWorks Communications Inc. and author of Your Social Media Roadmap. Apply the following tips and tools to your business and develop a strong social media relationship with the tween market:

Paul Kurnit, president and founder of KidShop, a marketing and communications firm specializing in messaging to kids, says gaming is the No. ' WYj_l_jo ebZ[h a_Zi Wh[ _dlebl[Z m_j^ edb_d[" WdZ as such sees online games as a huge promotional opportunity. He suggests brands collaborate to Yh[Wj[ ]Wc[i m^[h[ j^[ fheZkYj _i j^[ \eYkiÆie bed] Wi _jĂŠi Yb[Whbo Z_iYbei[Z j^Wj j^[ jm[[d _i _dlebl[Z m_j^ cWha[j_d]$ Ed[ ikY^ i_j[ j^WjĂŠi Ze_d] j^_i _i Im[[jo >_]^" W Yheii X[jm[[d W ]Wc[ WdZ W ieY_Wb d[jmeha j^Wj bWkdY^[Z bWij Del[cX[h$ J^_i fbWj\ehc \eh ]_hbi W][Z . je ', h[mWhZi Yh[Wj_l_jo m_j^ h[Wb# mehbZ fh_p[i WdZ effehjkd_j_[i" ikY^ Wi ZWdY_d] m_j^ W JL Y[b[Xh_jo eh Z[i_]d_d] W Ybej^_d] b_d[$ J^[ i_j[ĂŠi 9;E WdZ Ye#\ekdZ[h <hWda I_ced[jj_ X[b_[l[i jm[[d XhWdZiÆWdZ Ybej^_d] XhWdZi _d ][d[hWbÆ^Wl[ W bej je ]W_d \hec X[_d] _dlebl[Z m_j^ _dj[hWYj_l[ Yedj[iji b_a[ j^_i$ Ç7j j^[ Yeh[" brands that reach their audience through highly integrated entertainment produce passionate WZleYWj[i"Ăˆ ^[ iWoi$ ?jĂŠi W ijhWj[]o j^WjĂŠi [Y^e[Z Wj FbkcM_bbem" W i^eff_d] Wh[dW j^Wj \[Wjkh[i Ijob[ Je][j^[h"

W h[Wb j_c[ ckbj_#XhWdZ ekj\_j Yh[Wjeh m^[h[ members can find and create fashion collages on ed[ YWdlWi WdZ ][j \[[ZXWYa \hec j^[_h \h_[dZi$ FbkcM_bbem ^Wi hkd ikYY[ii\kb Yedj[iji \eh j^[ bWkdY^ e\ H_^WddWĂŠi f[h\kc[ WdZ m_j^ MWhd[h 8hej^[hi \eh cel_[i b_a[ Little Red Riding Hood and the Harry Potter series. Ç8hWdZi YWd meha m_j^ ki ed iYWl[d][h ^kdjiÆ XWi_YWbbo m[ ]_l[ Ybk[i WdZ j^[ ]_hbi \_dZ j^[ _j[ci m_j^_d W Y[hjW_d ijeh[ ed j^[ i_j[$ ?\ W XhWdZ ^Wi iec[j^_d] d[m eh Y[hjW_d jh[dZi j^[o mWdj je ^_]^b_]^j" j^[o YWd f_Ya j^ei[ ekj WdZ Yh[Wj[ Ybk[i \eh j^[c ie j^[ ]_hbi m_bb X[ ]kWhanteed to see them. While they’re searching for j^ei[ _j[ci" j^[oĂŠbb Wbie i[[ [l[hoj^_d] [bi[ _d the catalog.â€? With myriad opportunities to engage, inform WdZ [dj[hjW_d oekh jm[[d Ykijec[h edb_d[" _jĂŠi Yb[Wh j^Wj ieY_Wb c[Z_W _i W fem[h\kb jeeb \eh h[jW_b[hi WdZ XhWdZi$ Akhd_j h[c_dZi" Ç8hWdZi d[[Z je X[ _dYh[Z_Xbo h[ifedi_Xb["Ăˆ m^[d c[iiW]_d] je jm[[di$ ÇJ^[o d[[Z je jWa[ j^[ kd# mWbb[Z ]WhZ[d j^Wj _i ieY_Wb c[Z_W WdZ fkj iec[ l[ho iW\[ mWbbi WhekdZ _j ie j^[ XhWdZĂŠi c[isage and intention is clear.â€? With that in mind, ]_l[ j^[c m^Wj j^[o mWdj" WdZ j^[o m_bb Yec[0 9[Y[h[ YedYbkZ[i" ÇJ^[o mWdj \Wi^_ed$ J^[o mWdj Yeeb$ Ie j^[o ]e je m^[h[ Yeeb _i$Ăˆ š

Ä‘ĆŤ .# *%6!ĆŤ ĆŤ)+*0$(5ĆŤ%*ÄĄ/0+.!ĆŤ"+ 1/ĆŤ group. Tweens know what they like, and by asking for their input in a fun interactive manner, you will be connecting with them creatively while sparking a relationship with your store. “Create an event that is so engaging, customers will blog about it, post it on Facebook +.ĆŤ03!!0ĆŤ%0ÄŒÄ˜ĆŤ+""!./ĆŤ 1(ĆŤ 1.*%0ĆŤ+"ĆŤ % $+,Ä‹ Ä‘ĆŤ &1/0ĆŤ5+1.ĆŤ0+*!Ä?ĆŤ 3!!*/ĆŤ2%!3ĆŤ social media as theirs, so treat them as adults capable of making their own decisions and they will respond positively to you. Ä‘ĆŤ 3!!*/ĆŤ(+2!ĆŤ!*0!.%*#ĆŤ +*0!/0/Ä‹ĆŤ Invite them to upload videos showcasing their personal style for ĆŤ $ * !ĆŤ0+ĆŤ3%*ĆŤ 3!/+)!ĆŤ,.%6!/ĆŤ from your store. As Lora Cecere of Altimeter Group puts it, “That kind of interaction helps drive awareness and exposure.â€? Ä‘ĆŤ */0! ĆŤ+"ĆŤ1/%*#ĆŤ ĆŤ0$%. ÄĄ, .05ĆŤ %(5ĆŤ ! (/ĆŤ/%0!ÄŒĆŤ 1.*%0ĆŤ.! +))!* /ĆŤ promotions via weekly e-blast, SMS, Facebook or Twitter that tweens can forward to their friends. Customers who mention the secret password at checkout can BoGo or get a free gift with their purchase. “Even if it is a small item or coupon, everyone likes to get something for *+0$%*#ÄŒÄ˜ĆŤ/ 5/ĆŤ 3!!05ĆŤ %#$Äš/ĆŤ ĆŤ Frank Simonetti.

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Authentic California cool is stitched into every piece crafted by an innovative new cadre of children’s brands. By Audrey Goodson

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY MCCANDLISS&CAMPBELL

Made in

1/23/12 8:51 AM


Lunchbox

Daily Threads

WHEN DESIGNERS MAGGIE <en WdZ C_jhW A^WooWc `e_d[Z \ehY[i _d (&'& je Yh[Wj[ B_jjb[ MWhh_eh A_Zi" Wd WlWdj#]WhZ[ kd_i[n b_d[ m_j^ W ^[Wbj^o Zei[ e\ YWikWb 9Wb_\ehd_W Yeeb" j^[h[ mWi d[l[h Wdo ZekXj m^[h[ j^[ XhWdZÊi Z[i_]di mekbZ X[ cWdk# \WYjkh[ZÆh_]^j _d j^[ ^[Whj e\ j^[_h ^ec[jemd" _d Zemdjemd Bei 7d][b[i$ ÇM[ d[l[h Z_iYkii[Z _j1 m[ d[l[h [l[d beea[Z Wj ej^[h beYWj_edi"È <en iWoi$ Ç?j mWidÊj [l[d W gk[ij_ed h[Wbbo$È J^WjÊi X[YWki[ <en WdZ A^WooWc YWc[ \hec \Wi^# _ed XWYa]hekdZi" Wi Z[i_]d[hi e\ j^[_h emd Ykijec J#i^_hj b_d[iÆXej^ cWZ[ _d Bei 7d][b[i$ 7i <en dej[i" Ç?jÊi a_dZ e\ W]W_dij [l[ho fh_dY_fb[ m[ ^Wl[ je dej cWa[ 7c[h_YWd fheZkYji$È ?jÊi W i[dj_c[dj j^Wj i[[ci je X[ ]W_d_d] jhWYj_ed WYheii j^[ Y^_bZh[dÊi _dZkijho" \hec cWdk\WYjkh[hi je h[jW_b[hi je fWh[dji$ 7dZ Wi W ifWj[ e\ d[m Y^_bZh[dÊi XhWdZi fhel[" j^[ ^kX e\ j^_i ^ec[]hemd fheZkYj_ed cel[c[dj i[[ci je X[ Y[dj[h[Z _d ed[ beYWj_ed0 ikddo Bei 7d][b[i$ 8[jj[h ademd \eh _ji 8[l[hbo >_bbi ^eki[m_l[i WdZ >ebbomeeZ ijWhi" j^[ Y_jo cWo ieed ^Wl[ je cWa[ heec \eh W ]hem_d] dkcX[h e\ ]Wh# c[dj meha[hi$ Ç?jÊi \kddo dem j^Wj m[ b_l[ _d j^_i mehbZ m_j^ ]beXWb_pWj_ed" Xkj f[efb[ mWdj Yed# d[Yj_ed WdZ W ijhed] i[di[ e\ Yecckd_joÆWdZ je fWo jh_Xkj[ je j^Wj Xo]ed[ [hW e\ Whj_iWdi WdZ i[m[hi"È iWoi 9^h_ij_d[ 9^Wd]" \ekdZ[h WdZ Z[i_]d[h e\ Y^_bZh[dÊi XhWdZ 8eo!=_hb" m^_Y^ _i Z[i_]d[Z _d L[d_Y[ 8[WY^ WdZ fheZkY[Z _d Zemdjemd Bei 7d][b[i$ Ç?jÊi h[Wbbo Yeeb j^Wj iec[j^_d] j^Wj oek j^_da e\ Wi ebZ 7c[h_YWdW _i Wb_l[ WdZ m[bb _d B$7$" WdZ m[Êh[ l[ho \ehjkdWj[ je X[ WXb[ je jWf _dje j^Wj d[jmeha ie [Wi_bo WdZ j^Wj _j ij_bb [n_iji$È TEAM AMERICA 9^Wd] bWkdY^[Z 8eo!=_hb bWij o[Wh" WdZ Wbj^ek]^ i^[ dej[i j^Wj j^[ XhWdZÊi cWZ[#_d# j^[#K$I$7$ XedW \_Z[i Wh[dÊj j^[ De$ ' fkbb \eh j^[ cWdo h[jW_b[hi" _dYbkZ_d] 8Whd[oÊi" m^e idWff[Z kf ^[h bW_Z#XWYa Z[i_]di" _j mWi Z[\_d_j[bo W fbki$ ÇJ^[h[Êi W l[ho [ZkYWj# [Z Yedikc[h XWi[ ekj j^[h[ WdZ f[efb[ Wh[ h[Wbbo _dj[h[ij[Z _d m^[h[ oek cWdk\WY# jkh[$ ? Z[\_d_j[bo j^_da j^[h[Êi Wd WmWh[d[ii j^Wj mWidÊj j^[h[ X[\eh[" WdZ ? j^_da _jÊi Yedj_dk_d] je ]hem$È ?d \WYj" @WcWhW =^WbWo_d_" m^e bWij o[Wh bWkdY^[Z :W_bo J^h[WZi" W b_d[ e\ 9Wb_\ehd_W#YhW\j[Z XWi_Yi \eh Xeoi WdZ ]_hbi" mWi ikhfh_i[Z je b[Whd ^em cWdo h[jW_b[hi m[h[ beea_d] \eh 7c[h_YWd#cWZ[ WffWh[b$ ÇM^[d m[ m[h[ Wj ;DA 9^_bZh[dÊi 9bkX" j^[ \_hij j^_d] h[jW_b[hi Wia[Z mWi" ÉM^[h[ _i _j cWZ[5Ê ? ^WZ d[l[h ^[WhZ j^Wj X[\eh["È iWoi =^WbWo_d_" m^e Wbie emdi Fkcfa_d^[WZi" W Y^_bZh[dÊi Xekj_gk[ beYWj[Z _d j^[ Bei 7d][b[i ikXkhXi$ 9^Wd] Wjjh_Xkj[i j^[ ]hem_d] Yedikc[h Z[cWdZ \eh 7c[h_YWd#cWZ[ fheZkYji je b[iiedi b[Whd[Z \hec j^[ [Yedec_Y jkhXkb[dY[ e\ j^[ bWij Z[YWZ[$ ÇM^[d j^[h[ mWi W Xeec" f[efb[ j[dZ[Z je Xko ceh[ \h_lebekibo WdZ ceh[ [nY[ii_l[bo$ M_j^ j^[ h[Y[i# i_ed" f[efb[ h[Wb_p[Z j^Wj oek mWdj je _dl[ij _d iec[j^_d] m^[h[ j^[ gkWb_jo _i h[Wbbo j^[h[ WdZ oek adem m^[h[ _jÊi Yec_d] \hec"È i^[ WZZi$ Dej je c[dj_ed" m_j^ h[YehZ kd[cfbeoc[dj ij_bb b_d][h_d]" Yedikc[hi Wh[ fWh# j_YkbWhbo YedY[hd[Z m_j^ ki_d] j^[_h Xko_d] fem[h je Xeeij j^[ YekdjhoÊi [Yedeco" iWoi FW_][ CoYeia_[" emd[h WdZ Yh[Wjeh e\ Bei 7d][b[i#cWZ[ l_djW][ J#i^_hj WdZ bekd][m[Wh XhWdZ 7l_Wjeh DWj_ed" m^_Y^ bWkdY^[Z W Y^_bZh[dÊi b_d[ bWij o[Wh$ Ç?jÊi de i[Yh[j j^Wj ekh [Yedeco ^Wi ]ed[ j^hek]^ cW`eh ijhk]]b[i j^[ fWij \[m o[Whi" WdZ ? Ze X[b_[l[ j^Wj f[efb[ Wh[ X[Yec_d] ceh[ YediY_eki e\ Ze_d] j^[_h fWhj" m^_Y^ i^eff_d] 7c[h_YWd#cWZ[ Ybej^_d] Z[\_d_j[bo ikffehji"È i^[ dej[i$ ÇJ^[ \WYj _i" m^[d W Ykijec# [h Xkoi 7l_Wjeh DWj_ed" j^[o Wh[ [cfbeo_d] 7c[h_YWdi$È Eh Wi <en Wj B_jjb[ MWhh_eh A_Zi dej[i" ÇM[ ikffehj dej edbo j^[ X_]][h \WYjeho j^Wj Ze[i ekh cWdk\WYjkh_d]" Xkj m[ Wbie ikffehj j^[ h[Wbbo icWbb cec WdZ fef \WYjeh_[i j^Wj Wh[ [cXhe_Z[h_d] ekh fheZkYji" jee$ ?\ oek Xko j^_i" oekÊh[ ikffehj_d] ki" Wi m[bb Wi ^[bf_d] ki ikffehj j^[i[ f[efb[$ J^WjÊi W l[ho _cfehjWdj fe_dj h_]^j dem$È O[j [l[d m_j^ W ]hem_d] dkcX[h e\ i^eff[hi beea_d] je Xko beYWbbo#cWZ[ ]eeZi" W bWh][ fWhj e\ j^[ cel[c[dj _i Yec_d] \hec j^[ jef Zemd" WdZ dej j^[ Xejjec kf"

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“IT’S REALLY COOL THAT SOMETHING YOU THINK OF AS OLD AMERICANA IS ALIVE AND WELL IN L.A.” manufacturers maintain. Rather than an overwhelming consumer desire for American-made goods driving the market, it’s most often the brands themselves that choose to produce their products in their own backyard. The main reason? Quality, quality, quality. TOP QUALITY ÇJ^[ De$ ' j^_d] m[ mWdj _i gkWb_jo Yedjheb$ M[ want to see our product as it’s being produced,” Ghalayini asserts. And that’s where Los Angeles shines. With a long history in garment manufacturing, an abundance of dye and wash houses, and as one of the few cities in j^[ K$I$ j^Wj _i ^ec[ je Little Warrior Kids major manufacturers like American Apparel, Los Angeles provides ample opportunities for brands to craft quality products from start to finish. Not to mention, as the fashion capital of the West Coast, brands can house all of their operations—from design to production to marketing—in the same city. “Our studio is right in the middle of the fashion district, and in the building next to us, one of our sewers is on the sixth floor, and our cutter is on

HOW TO BE A STAR Aviator Nation

Looking to join the growing number of brands producing in Los Angeles? We asked top brands to share tips for setting up shop in the City of Angels.

FIND YOUR FABRIC Scour the textile shows in L.A., and try to find L.A.-based vendors. Even if they import their fabrics, it helps to have local sources. The trade shows are also a good resource because many fabric vendors can provide referrals for sewing and cutting contractors.

j^[ j^_hZ \beeh"È dej[i 8h_Wd PkYa[hcWd" emd[h of Los Angeles-based children’s brand Lunchbox. Ç<hec Wd [Wi[ e\ ki[ ijWdZfe_dj" Bei 7d][b[i h[Wbbo mehai$È 9^Wd] Wj 8eo!=_hb W]h[[i0 ÇM[ `kij finished up our spring production, and I’ve literally been down to the factory every single day, looking at the samples and stitching.” That ease of use, manufacturers say, enables them to keep a careful eye on product and ensure quality. “We’re always on the floor touching our garments,” maintains Anna Lindstrom, owner of boys’ brand Charlie Rocket, which has been manufacturing its West Coast-inspired apparel in Bei 7d][b[i \eh '+ o[Whi$ B_dZijhec Xh_[\bo jh_[Z importing some of her collection in the past, but found it wasn’t a good fit for the brand, which she describes as “a totally hands-on company.” Not to mention, Mycoskie notes, new problems arise every production run in garment manufacturing, and dye colors need to be adjusted constantly to ensure consistency. “If we were producing overseas, some of these problems could be overlooked and there would not be enough time to change them by the time I see them,” she says. “If I wasn’t able to constantly check in and make adjustments, the quality and end result would be compromised for sure.” Of course, with that level of quality control Yec[i [nf[di[0 Ç?j Yeiji c[ jm_Y[ Wi ckY^ QWi producing overseas]. People think I’m crazy,” says Laura Angotti, owner of L.A.-made Rowdy Sprout, a collection of vintage-inspired rock-themed tees and loungewear for kids. There’s no denying that bWXeh Yeiji WdZ [cfbeo[[ X[d[\_ji _d j^[ K$I$ cWa[

FIND YOUR MANUFACTURERS Los Angeles is packed with talented small contractors, but it may or may not be cost effective to source out each step of production. Price each step out individually—fabric, dye, finish, accessories, cutting, sewing, etc.—and look for a package deal with a production company. It’s also easier to manage production when it’s based in one location, but be warned: Many end-to-end factories require larger minimums, so it’s not cost effective for everyone. DON’T SETTLE FOR LESS Don’t take the cheapest pricing, and don’t be afraid to keep looking for contractors who are dedicated to quality. Also, make sure your manufacturer specializes in making the types of items you need. For example, if you pay a dressmaker to make casual daywear, you might find your product pushed to the back of the line as they have higher margin dressmaking contracts coming in. FOSTER RELATIONSHIPS Work in sync with your contractors to help them develop ownership of their work product, and make sure you give them plenty of time to make the goods. Give yourself and your workers a cushion of at least a month before your promised delivery date.

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domestic production an expensive prospect, but many brands report that a recent spate of problems in manufacturing spots like China—from worker shortages and factory closures to rapidly rising wages—mean the cost differentiation is continuing to narrow. “People’s immediate reaction is it must be really expensive [to produce domestically], but when you take in the big picture, it’s probably a little more expensive, but not like people would think,” Ghalayini notes. The bigger picture, she says, are the risks inherent in overseas production that can make it inordinately expensive: Ghalayini has friends in the industry who have lost entire shipments. “People forget all of the importing and freight costs. I think they get enticed by the quote from the contractors, but when you tack on all these other things that don’t go into the same place on your financial statement, in the end you may not be as profitable as you think you are,” she points out. And Zuckerman at Lunchbox notes that smaller manufactures are particularly vulnerable when producing abroad. “When you’re a small producer, you don’t have a lot of leverage. All of a sudden the factory gets a huge volume order, and you’re put on the back burner,” he notes. “Had we produced in China and everything went perfectly, I think we would have paid considerably less, but that doesn’t happen. It’s wishful thinking.” Not to mention, Lindstrom adds, domestic brands have the ability to produce goods cut-to-order—meaning there’s never any need for stock or the pressure to predict the perfect order minimums. “For this time in the economy, that’s a very good thing for us, because we don’t have to sell our goods at discount prices,” she notes. GOING FOR GOOD Even if domestic production is pricier, it’s a cost many Los Angeles manufacturers are willing to pay, for reasons beyond quality control. “I feel like I can sleep at night because I can walk in and see my workers

are getting lunch breaks and being treated well,” Angotti points out. It’s a concern that parents share, Ghalayini says. “China has a major stigma now. I think it’s a human rights issue. Consumers think of these women being squashed up in these dormitories sewing all day,” she notes. “At Pumpkinheads, we’ve even had pushback on some of the organic brands in our store because they’re made in China, including the ones that focus on being safe for kids.” And in addition to ensuring ethical treatment, fostering a personal connection with contractors helps improve the product, Chang notes. “It’s cool that I know everybody in the entire value chain. I personally know the people who make our samples, our sewers and our cutters. It’s really a family atmosphere,” she says, adding that she recently attended one of her sewer’s daughter’s 15th birthday party. “I think it just adds to the quality, when everybody is just putting so much heart and soul into each of their garments.” Chang also cites environmental concerns as key to her decision to keep production at home. “For us, the main component was sustainability, because it’s a core tenet to the Boy+Girl design ethos. We wanted checks and balances throughout the design production process, to make sure it was as eco-friendly as possible.” Yet for others like Mycoskie, it’s all about authenticity—being a California brand through and through. Or as Angotti at Rowdy Sprout says of her vintage tees, “Rock and roll is such an American thing—I just felt like it should be made in the U.S.A.” It’s a combination of characteristics for products made in L.A.—topquality, ethically sourced and authentic—that tends to push up the price that parents pay at the register, but Chang thinks it’s a cost consumers increasingly appreciate. “We wanted to make a line where if you are going to buy a piece and invest in this piece, it’s going to last a very long time,” she adds. “It’s not buy now, wear now and throw away tomorrow. There are undoubtedly higher costs involved, but it’s definitely sewn into the quality.” •

Little Me 112 W. 34th Street Suite 1000 NY, NY 10120 212-279-4150 Mark Zelen www.littleme.com Northeast Bill & Sandie Ellsworth 781-326-3999 Southeast Paul Daubney 404-577-6840 Caribbean/Latin America/ South Florida Rolando & Ana Hidalgo 305-266-8745 West Coast Teresa Stephen & Krystal Crooymans 866-723-KIDS Midwest Richard Finkelstein & Al Zaiff 800-935-0236 Texas/Southwest Annette Cardona-Stein 214-637-4446 International Nathan A. Mamiye 212-216-6008 See us at: Kids Show Las Vegas Bally's, Feb. 13th-15th The Children’s Club NYC, Mar. 11th-13th

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STYLING BY MICHEL ONOFRIO Woolrich thermal shirt, Notify jeans, Circa Early Halloween boots throughout; Appaman blazer, American Apparel T-shirt, Notify jeans, American Apparel socks throughout, Converse sneakers throughout.

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY AMANDA PRATT

REBEL SOCIAL CLUB CLASSIC DENIM MAKES BEING BAD LOOK SO GOOD.

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Woolrich flannel, T-shirt by American Apparel, Scotch Shrunk jeans; flannel by Woolrich, Butterflies and Zebras tank top, Scotch Shrunk jeans and suspenders; Appaman blazer and flannel shirt, T-shirt by American Apparel, Notify jeans.

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191 Unlimited plaid shirt, American Apparel T-shirt, Notify jeans, suspenders by Scotch Shrunk; T-shirt by American Apparel, Scotch Shrunk jeans; denim jacket by Tractor, Vintage Havana tank, skinny jeans by !It Jeans; T-shirt by American Apparel, Notify jeans.

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Appaman flannel shirt, American Apparel T-shirt. Opposite page: Woolrich work shirt and thermal, jeans by Notify; American Apparel T-shirt, jeans by Joe's Jeans.

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Miss Me plaid shirt, tank by Vintage Havana, Timberland jeans. Opposite page: The Collection by Sara Sara leather jacket, Butterflies and Zebras tank, Notify jeans; Timberland button down shirt, T-shirt by Colorfast, Notify jeans.

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Scotch Shrunk denim shirt and pants, American Apparel T-shirt; Levi’s plaid shirt, American Apparel T-shirt, jeans by Notify. Opposite page: Scotch Shrunk denim shirt, American Apparel tank, !It Jeans.

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191 Unlimited button down shirt, Vintage Havana tank, denim shorts by Tractor. Opposite page: Woolrich flannel, T-shirt by American Apparel, Scotch Shrunk jeans; Appaman vest, American Apparel T-shirt, jeans by Notify; 191 Unlimited work shirt, tank by Vintage Havana, engineer jeans by H.W. Carter & Sons; Levi’s T-shirt and flannel shirt, jeans by !It Jeans. Style Director: Michel Onofrio Fashion Editor: Angela Velasquez Hair and Makeup: David Cruz @Ray Brown

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ON THE ROAD LAS VEGAS

B

uyers who make the annual trip to Las Vegas for KIDShow are probably familiar with many of the city’s more publicized charms—from the Bellagio’s operatic water show to the entrancing acrobatic feats at Cirque du Soleil. But locals know their city has more to offer than just blackjack and Bengal tigers. We asked Las Vegas-based children’s industry insiders to share their tips for retailers looking to live it up in Sin City. —Audrey Goodson

BEST OFFBEAT ADVENTURE: Neon Museum Boneyard

WHY: Reminiscent of a circus tent with big top décor, this Tuscan eatery features views of the Bellagio’s famed water-andlight extravaganza (www.bellagio.com). “It shares a kitchen with Le Cirque [which features five-diamond French fare], but it’s the more whimsical side. Plus, you’re not paying Le Cirque prices and you don’t have to wear a coat and tie. The food is fantastic and the service is great. When it’s beautiful outside, they have doors that open onto the water show, and you can hear the music. It hits all the senses.”—Lincoln Spoor, co-owner of Las Vegas-based carrier and accessories brand Kokopax

BEST BREAK WHY: A short jaunt from the Strip, the FOR THE KIDS: Springs Preserve boasts everything from Springs Preserve interactive nature and science exhibits to

botanical gardens, hiking trails and animal shows (www.springspreserve.org). “They have a playground and huge

BEST PLACE TO HIT THE JACKPOT: Fremont Street

WHY: Also known affectionately as “old Las Vegas,” this downtown locale is home to some of the city’s longest-running casinos—a good spot to catch live music and light shows and relive the city’s Rat Pack-era glamour. “If you’re looking for a bargain, head downtown. For people who are new and want to learn how to gamble, there are lower minimums, more locals and the dealers are much friendlier. They don’t want to teach you on the Strip because they just want to keep rolling, whereas the guys downtown are happy to teach you.” —Denise Raeside, manager of KIDShow Las Vegas

green space that kids just love playing in, and they have a sandpit on the playground where kids can literally dig for rocks and bones, like geologists. They also have lots of different animals, like foxes, rabbits and spiders, and they have dwellings like the Native Americans used when they were here, so the kids can go into mud hut dwellings to see what it was like.” —Jollina Simpson, owner of Las Vegasbased boutique Well Rounded Baby

BEST DIP: Golden Nugget Shark Tank

WHY: After a $30 million renovation, you can swim with the sharks in the pool at this downtown hotel— without losing a limb (www.goldennugget.com). “There’s a huge, huge shark tank with about 20 big sharks in the middle of the pool, and a three-story waterslide that goes right through it. You can swim around the tank, and it looks like you’re swimming with the sharks.” —Desiree Vittorio, owner of Las Vegas-based children’s e-tailer MiaCarina.com

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Osteria del Circo photo courtesy of MGM Resorts International. Neon Museum Boneyard image courtesy of The Neon Museum, Inc; copyright held by The Neon Museum, Inc.

BEST MEAL WITH A VIEW: Osteria del Circo

WHY: If you’ve covered the Strip, but still need your fix of neon lights, schedule a tour of the Boneyard—home to more than 100 iconic signs dating back to the 1930s, rescued by the Neon Museum, a local non-profit (www.neonmuseum.org). “It’s really interesting to see all the stuff at the Boneyard, and it’s right on Las Vegas Boulevard. They have the famous Lady Luck sign, the Stardust hotel sign, the horseshoe [from Binion’s Horseshoe] and other vintage signs. Afterwards, check out Insert Coins, an arcade bar with vintage arcade video games from the ’80s.” —Katherine Schiebel, product development coordinator for Las Vegas-based Pediped

1/23/12 1:57 PM


CALENDAR

MARKET DATES & EVENTS

FEBRUARY 2-5

Copenhagen Fashion Week (CIFFKids) Bella Center Copenhagen, Denmark www.ciffkids.dk

2-6

13-17

NY Kids Market 34 West 33rd St. New York, NY www.nykidsmarket.org

Playtime New York Mar 10-12 New York, NY

MARCH 4-6

Michigan Children’s Show Farmington Hills Manor 2366 Orchard Lake Road Farmington Hills, MI (847) 415-2156

10-12

Atlanta Apparel Market AmericasMart Atlanta, GA (404) 220-3000 www.americasmart.com

Playtime New York 82 Mercer New York, NY (212) 563-7301 www.playtimenewyork.com

13-15

11-13

KIDShow Bally’s Hotel Las Vegas, NV (908) 232-0867 www.kidshow.cc

ENK Children’s Club Javits Center New York, NY (212) 759-8055 www.enkshows.com

12-15

LA Kids Market California Market Center Los Angeles, CA (213) 630-3683 www.californiamarketcenter.com

22-25

Dallas Apparel & Accessories Market Dallas Market Center Dallas, TX (214) 655-6100 www.dallasmarketcenter.com

24-26

NW Kids Show DoubleTree by Hilton Seattle, WA info@nwkidsshow.com www.nwkidsshow.com

3 KIDShow Showcase

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CALENDAR

MARKET DATES & EVENTS

24-27

Kidz at Stylemax 222 Merchandise Mart Plaza 7th Floor Market Suites Chicago, IL (800) 677-6278 www.kidzatstylemax.com

24-27

Boston Gift Show Boston Convention & Exhibition Center Boston, MA (678) 285-3976 www.bostongiftshow.com

27-31

North Branch Children’s Show 1229 N. North Branch St., 3rd Fl. Chicago, IL www.northbranchkids.com

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APRIL 12-17

Atlanta Apparel Market AmericasMart Atlanta, GA (404) 220-3000 www.americasmart.com

25-27

Spring Educational Conference & Trade Show South Point Hotel, Casino & Spa Las Vegas, NV (210) 691-4848 x111 www.allbabyandchildsec.com

JUNE 5

PLUSH Vibiana Los Angeles, CA (310) 248-0160 info@plushshow.com www.plushshow.com

11-14

LA Kids Market California Market Center Los Angeles, CA (213) 630-3683 www.californiamarketcenter.com

17-18

Bubble London Business Design Centre Islington, London + 44 (0)1484 846069 www.bubblelondon.com

20-26

Dallas Total Home & Gift Market Dallas Market Center Dallas, TX (214) 655-6100 www.dallasmarketcenter.com

21-24

KidsWorld Dallas Children’s Apparel & Accessories Market

Dallas Market Center Dallas, TX (214) 655-6100 www.dallasmarketcenter.com

28-30

Pitti Bimbo Forteza da Basso Florence, Italy www.pittimmagine.com

AUGUST 6-9

LA Kids Market California Market Center Los Angeles, CA (213) 630-3683 www.californiamarketcenter.com

9-12

Copenhagen Fashion Week (CIFFKids) Bella Center Copenhagen, Denmark www.ciffkids.dk

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CALENDAR

MARKET DATES & EVENTS

9-13

Atlanta Apparel Market AmericasMart Atlanta, GA (404) 220-3000 www.americasmart.com

11-13

Kidz at Stylemax 222 Merchandise Mart Plaza 7th Floor Market Suites Chicago, IL (800) 677-6278 www.kidzatstylemax.com

Dallas Market Center Dallas, TX (214) 655-6100 www.dallasmarketcenter.com

18-23

New York International Gift Fair Piers 92 & 94, Javits Center New York, NY (800) 272-7469 www.nyigf.com

20-22

12-13

KIDShow Bally’s Hotel Las Vegas, NV (908) 232-0867 www.kidshow.cc

16-19

Playground The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas Las Vegas, NV (213) 622-7039 friends@playgroundtradeshow.com

NW Kids Show DoubleTree by Hilton Seattle, WA info@nwkidsshow.com www.nwkidsshow.com

Dallas Apparel & Accessories Market

er_02_calendar_04.indd 49

21-22

www.playgroundtradeshow.com

OCTOBER 14-17

ABC Kids Expo Kentucky Exposition Center Louisville, KY (210) 691-4848 www.theabcshow.com

20-23

Kidz at Stylemax 222 Merchandise Mart Plaza 7th Floor Market Suites Chicago, IL (800) 677-6278 www.kidzatstylemax.com

15-18

Editor’s Note: Show details are subject to change. Please call the phone numbers or visit the show websites for up-to-date schedules. Show sponsors may send updates to editorialrequests@9threads.com.

20-22

Net TULLE Tricot

LA Kids Market California Market Center Los Angeles, CA (213) 630-3683 www.californiamarketcenter.com

NW Kids Show DoubleTree by Hilton Seattle, WA info@nwkidsshow.com www.nwkidsshow.com

www.tutufabric.com Fashion Fabrics

1/23/12 12:08 PM


M ARKETPLACE

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Join Earnshaw’s Marketplace Earnshaw’s Marketplace maximizes small budgets for emerging infant and toddler companies. Tout your up-and-coming apparel or juvenile product collections to retailers looking for new resources targeting newborns through preschoolers. Call (646) 278-1510 Alexandra.Marinacci@9threads.com

er_02_marketplace_01.indd 51

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1/23/12 4:07 PM


REMIX

I Love Life T-shirt, red Vintage Havana jeans, Charm It! by High IntenCity charm bracelet, Rockinrobin rhinestone bracelet and necklace.

STYLIST: CASSANDRA AGE: 7 ¾ HOMETOWN: NEW FAIRFIELD, CT Not one to peruse the latest Tiger Beat for fashion advice, our stylist Cassandra dresses to the beat of her own drum. Cassandra’s eyes lit up when she saw a table of bright and poppy jewelry and headbands in the Earnshaw’s closet, but she admits, “I’m not really into going to stores or celebrity fashion. I let my mom pick most of my stuff.” That’s because Cassandra is busy with ballet and tap dance recitals, soccer, practicing

for her stage debut and taking bike rides with her three siblings and two best friends, Anna and Lauren. She likes to spend her free time outdoors near the lake, wearing comfy sweats, jeans and long-sleeve tees. In the summer, she says she wears a bathing suit nearly every day. Still, Cassandra’s flair for bohemia (she wants to be an artist when she grows up) shines through the funky T-shirts and hippy-chic jeans she chose. —Angela Velasquez

PHOTOGRAPHY BY NANCY CAMPBELL. FASHION EDITOR: ANGELA VELASQUEZ.

Tie-dye tee by Dream Big, !It Jeans jeggings, flower headband by Pink Pewter, Rockinrobin jewelry.

Crop top by Vintage Havana, LA Made black tank top, jeans by Levi’s, Pink Pewter gray headband, studded bracelet by Rockinrobin.

52 EARNSHAWS.COM FEBRUARY 2012

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New York Buzz Dannenfelser (212)695-5151 Los Angeles Teresa Stephen (213)623-8155 Dallas Greg Morgan (214)643-0100

Jona Michelle

Philadelphia Martin Arnold (609)471-6189 Seattle Carrie Martin (253)851-1418 Atlanta Paul Daubney (404)577-6840 Chicago Robert Centen & Associates (312)464-0999 Miami Miriam Devesa (305)261-5374

EARN_COV3 COV3

1/23/12 9:48:54 AM


Offspring 112 W. 34th St. Suite 1000 NY, NY 10120 212-279-4150 Mark Zelen EARN_COV4 COV4

Northeast Bill & Sandie Ellsworth 781-326-3999

Southeast Paul Daubney 404-577-6840

Caribbean/Latin America/ South Florida Rolando & Ana Hidalgo 305-266-8745

West Coast Teresa Stephen & Krystal Crooymans 866-723-KIDS

Midwest Richard Finkelstein & Al Zaiff 800-935-0236

Texas/Southwest Annette CardonaStein 214-637-4446

See us at Kids Show Las Vegas, Bally's, Feb. 13th-15th

1/23/12 9:50:29 AM


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