Earnshaw's | June 2012

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INFANTSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;, GIRLSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; & BOYSâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; WEAR REVIEW

JUNE 201 2 $5.00

Licensing

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Designed in Sweden

TO ORDER, PLEASE CONTACT: sales@happysocksnyc.com or 212-391-4143

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AUGUST 5.6.7 2012 PIER 94.12 AVENUE @ 55 STREET 9AM-6PM SUN & MON . 9AM-5PM TUES

R E TA I L E R / B U Y E R R E G I S T R AT I O N : W W W. E N K R E G I S T R AT I O N S . C O M WWW.ENKSHOWS.COM/CHILDRENSCLUB T. 2 1 2 . 7 5 9 . 8 0 5 5 F. 2 1 2 . 7 5 8 . 3 4 0 3

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Noelle Heffernan Publisher Jennifer Cattaui ;Z_jeh _d 9^_[\ Nancy Campbell 9h[Wj_l[ :_h[Yjeh ;:?JEH?7B Angela Velasquez <Wi^_ed ;Z_jeh Mary Avant Lyndsay McGregor 7iieY_Wj[ ;Z_jehi Maria Bouselli 7ii_ijWdj ;Z_jeh 9H;7J?L; Trevett McCandliss 7hj :_h[Yjeh Tim Jones I[d_eh :[i_]d[h 9EDJH?8KJEHI Michel Onofrio Ijob[ :_h[Yjeh 7:L;HJ?I?D= Caroline Diaco =hekf FkXb_i^[h Sarah Sutphin Broglie 7Zl[hj_i_d] CWdW][h Alex Marinacci 7YYekdj ;n[Ykj_l[ Jennifer Craig If[Y_Wb 7YYekdji CWdW][h Maureen Johan 9bWii_\_[Z IWb[i 7:C?D?IJH7J?ED Laurie Guptill FheZkYj_ed CWdW][h Melanie Prescott 9_hYkbWj_ed CWdW][h Mike Hoff M[XcWij[h 9EDJ79J ?D<E Sales/Editorial Offices ), 9eef[h IgkWh[" *j^ \beeh D[m Oeha" DO '&&&) J[b0 ,*, (-.#'++& <Wn0 ,*, (-.#'++) [Z_jeh_Wbh[gk[iji6 /j^h[WZi$Yec Circulation Office (' >_]^bWdZ 9_hYb[ D[[Z^Wc" C7 &(*/* J[b0 .&& /,*#+'+& <Wn0 -.' *+)#/)./ Y_hYkbWj_ed6/j^h[WZi$Yec 9EHFEH7J; /J^h[WZi (,(&( :[jhe_j HeWZ" )&& M[ijbWa[" E> **'*+ J[b0 **& .-'#')&& Xen Zapis" 9^W_hcWd Lee Zapis" Fh[i_Z[dj Rich Bongorno" 9<E

JUNE 2012 FEATURES 22 9 Million Lives @Wd[j >ik" IWdh_e i d[m Y^_[\ ef[hWj_d] e\ÓY[h" ]_l[i j^[ iYeef ed Xk_bZ_d] j^[ >[bbe A_jjo XhWdZ _d j^[ _d\Wdj%jeZZb[h cWha[j$ 26

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FASHION 34 We Are One B_Y[di[Z \Wi^_ed WffWh[b Xb[dZi m_j^ \Wbb \Wleh_j[i \eh W fh[ffo ]beXWb \ki_ed$

Sweater and blouse by Ralph Lauren, B-Karo jeans. On cover: Levi's by Haddad jean jacket and button-down shirt, HitchHiker sweater vest and pants. Photography

by Christophe Kutner.

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EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) Vol. 96 Issue 5. The business and fashion magazine of the children’s wear industry is published monthly by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10003. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2012 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

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License to Sell

Characters, bands, sports teams and fashion labels rule the licensed apparel world.

EDITOR’S LETTER

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LICENSED APPAREL HAS always fascinated me, and this month, we delved deeper into this burgeoning segment of the children’s market. It’s clear that the licensing world is enormous, and brand building is at the forefront as licensed entertainment properties proliferate in the digital space. Whether a license gains appeal through a TV program, book series, movie or gaming app, it seems as if children’s appetites for new characters have never been so strong or so diverse. This creates great opportunities for brand-builders who can reach into a multitude of channels to drive sales and make efficient supply chains to support product lines á la NBC Universal’s breakout hit, Fashion Star.

For our June licensing issue, we uncover opportunities specialty retailers can cash in on, including incorporating licensed properties that are in line with a store’s boutique nature and product mix. With a greater array of licenses creating boutique-appropriate goods, retailers can home in on those that best fit their clientele’s affinities. One property that’s ostensibly universal is Hello Kitty. We got to sit down with Sanrio’s new chief operating officer, Janet Hsu, and discuss the phenomenon that is Hello Kitty and its recent entrance into the infant/toddler market. The feline, which was born out of a contest during an economic downturn in the ’70s, has grown into a $5-billion powerhouse, targeting every demographic through products hitting high, low and mid-market. But that cat isn’t the only game in town. Our trend pages focus on the unstoppable Disney

empire (No. 1 in retail revenues among license holders at $37.5 billion), team sports goods and character-driven children’s books. We also cast our spotlight on activewear company Limeapple, as well as nostalgic retro brand, KangaRoos, a footwear property that has been given a makeover by shoe hotshots Shawn and Shane Ward.

For our striking fashion story—“We Are One”—we move beyond character licensing and celebrate designer brands that have expanded their range through contracts with licensees entrusted to articulate their brand values and attributes. From DKNY and Junior Gaultier to Levi’s and Timberland, licensees like Haddad and Parigi Group are designing looks that are suitable for any kid with a penchant for preppy.

The global undertone of our fashion story also mimics the increasing globalization of the licensed apparel market and the rest of the industry to boot. As trade becomes more fluid and opportunities arise for retailers and manufacturers, we want to consider the similarities and differences between us in readying our businesses for the global landscape.

Enjoy,

JENNIFER CATTAUI Editor in Chief, Earnshaw’s

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E A R N S H AW ’S M A G A Z I N E

Earnie Awards

! For 35 years, Earnshaw’s has recognized outstanding companies

with the prestigious Earnie Award. Nominated and voted upon by industry leaders, Earnie Awards denote the retail community’s seal of approval in areas like design, quality and overall excellence. Until June 30, we will be taking nominations for top companies in 20 different categories on www.earnieawards.com. Let the nominations begin.

VOTING CATEGORIES Best Denim Best Licensed Apparel Best Swimwear Best Hosiery Best Footwear Best Accessories & Jewelry

Best Special Occasion Wear Best Infants’ Collection

Best Tween Collection

Best Swim Collection

Best Gift Item

Best Outerwear Collection

Best Girls’ Collection

Best New Company (1-3 years)

Best Boys’ Collection

Best Company for Good

“It” Item of the Year

Best International Collection

Company of the Year

Best Brand Rep

Nominations begin April 30, 2012, at 11:59 p.m. EST and end on June 30, 2012, at 11:59 p.m. EST. Go to www.earnieawards.com to cast your vote. (&'( @KD; ;7HDI>7MI$9EC 5

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talking points

Show Time Award-winning childrenswear look by FIT student Tara Ricci.

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7 L?F YeYajW_b h[Y[fj_ed X[jm[[d j^[ jme i^emi Y[b[XhWj[Z j^[ [l[dj WdZ j^[ d[Whbo -& o[Whi e\ <?JÊi ^WdZi#ed [ZkYWj_ed fhWYtices and influence in the fashion industry.

FASHION INDUSTRY LEADERS gath[h[Z Wj 9^[bi[W F_[hi ed CWo ' je l_[m collections from graduating designers of FWhiedi J^[ D[m IY^eeb \eh :[i_]d$ J^[ WddkWb hkdmWo i^em \[Wjkh[Z j^[ meha e\ )/ Z[i[hl_d] ijkZ[dji$ J^[ \ekh Y^ei[d Y^_bZh[dim[Wh Yebb[Yj_edi" m^_Y^ Yecbined designs for both young children and jm[[di" X[]Wd j^[ i^em$ Parsons alumni Carly Cushnie and C_Y^[bb[ EY^i" e\ 9ki^d_[ [j EY^i" ^eij[Z j^[ [l[dj j^Wj Y[b[XhWj[Z j^[ ^WhZ meha e\ ijkZ[dj Z[i_]d[hi$ J^[ \Wi^_ed i^em mWi fWhj e\ j^[ i[YedZ WddkWb FWhiedi <[ij_lWb" m^_Y^ _dYbkZ[i lWh_eki Whj WdZ Z[i_]d [l[dji" [n^_X_j_edi" _dijWbbWj_edi and galleries.

J^[ ZWo [dZ[Z m_j^ j^[ FWhiedi (&'( <Wi^_ed 8[d[\_j" m^_Y^ ^edeh[Z XeWhZ Y^W_h I^[_bW 9$ @e^died WdZ WbkcdW :eddW AWhWd$ FWhiedi ;n[Ykj_l[ :[Wd @e[b Jem[hi WddekdY[Z j^[ Yh[Wj_ed e\ j^[ I^[_bW 9$ @e^died :[i_]d WdZ :_l[hi_jo IY^ebWhi^_f <kdZ je ^[bf \_dWdY[ ijkZ[djiÊ jk_j_ed" ^eki_d] WdZ b_l_d] [nf[di[i WdZ j^[ :eddW AWhWd <Wi^_ed :[i_]d WdZ IeY_[jo IY^ebWhi^_f <kdZ je fhel_Z[ \_dWdY_Wb ikffehj je cWij[h e\ \_d[ Whji YWdZ_ZWj[i ijkZo_d] <Wi^_ed :[i_]d WdZ IeY_[jo Wj FWhiedi$ DWhY_ie HeZh_]k[p" W \[bbem FWhiedi WbkcdW" _djheZkY[Z j^[ i[YedZ \Wi^_ed i^em Wj j^[ X[d[\_j" W\j[h m^_Y^ j^[ Z[Wd e\ j^[ IY^eeb e\ <Wi^_ed Wj FWhiedi WddekdY[Z j^[ m_dd[hi" m^e _dYbkZ[Z =_kb_WdW HW]]_Wd_" ((" \eh ^[h kd_i[n ad_jm[Wh Yebb[Yj_ed \eh Y^_bZh[d and adults.

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by Parsons’ f[efb[ mWjY^_d] _dif_h[Z ^[h W][b[ii WdZ childrenswear award winner, ][dZ[hb[ii Yebb[Yj_ed$ Ç9bej^_d] _i ie l[hGiuliana iWj_b["È i^[ iWoi$ Ç? ^Wl[ WZkbj \h_[dZi j^Wj Raggiani. mekbZ bel[ je \_j _dje Y^_bZh[dÊi Ybej^[i WdZ ^Wl[ ifea[d je Y^_bZh[d j^Wj mWdj je beea ÉYeebÊ b_a[ WZkbji$ ? YWd i[di[ j^[ ijh_Yj XekdZWh_[i e\ \Wi^_ed \WZ_d] _d W h[\h[i^_d] mWo WdZ j^ek]^j je h[fh[i[dj j^Wj m_j^ W ÉjhWdi_j_edWbÊ Yebb[Yj_ed$È J^[ X[d[\_j hW_i[Z '$* c_bb_ed \eh FWhiedi iY^ebWhi^_fi$

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PHOTO COURTESY OF SWADDLEDESIGNS

LICENSING TALK

ON MAY 10, industry leaders gathered in New York City’s Time Warner Center for the 2012 Licensing Summit to discuss licensing trends. Editor in chief of License!

Global, Tony Lisanti, moderated the discussion that addressed such licensing topics as entertainment, fashion and social media. Panelists included Kevin Kern, director of public relations at Elvis Presley; Debra Joester, president and CEO of The Joester Loria Group; Robert Strand, vice president of licensing at IMG; Charles Riotto, president of the International Licensing Industry Merchandisers’ Association (LIMA); and Chris DeMoulin, president of licensing at Advanstar.

“We must understand what licensing is,” DeMoulin said. “It’s a combination of brand extension, emotional connection and money that is developed thoughtfully and strategically.” In regards to entertainment, blockbuster movies such as The Avengers create a big opportunity for new products and brand extension.

Panelists also addressed social media franchises such as Angry Birds, Temple Run and Annoying Orange as a new licensing opportunity. Fashion licensing, however, remains the bulk of licensing revenue, contributing $37 billion to U.S. fashion sales in 2011, according to EPM Communications.

In regards to fashion, Joester cited the television show Fashion Star as performing two important licensing elements: brand extension and giving the consumer an experience that satisfies the need for a current pop culture phenomenon. While real time integration may be the wave of licensing’s future, panelists maintained that, first and foremost, retailers must be willing to understand how to specifically translate these licensing opportunities into sales at their own stores.

Panelists also agreed that brands must stay true to their roots, stating that licensing constantly goes back to authenticity. Strand suggests that brands cover the basics first and always have a strategy that addresses legitimacy. DeMoulin wholly agreed.

“We must stay mindful to who the customer is,” he said. “You have to stay authentic to why the customer base loves the property and how they emotionally identify with the brand.”

To learn more about licensing, visit the Licensing Expo at Mandalay Bay Convention Center in Las Vegas from June 12 to 14. For more information, go to www.licensingexpo.com.

AWARDS SEASON IT’S THAT TIME of year again—your chance to nominate deserving companies for the prestigious Earnie Awards. There are 20 different categories, including Best Footwear, Best Company for Good and “It” Item of the Year. Receiving a nomination or award demonstrates the retail community’s seal of approval.

Nominations are open until June 30 and can be made on www.earnieawards.com. Based on these nominations, a ballot will be established for retailers to vote for their favorites beginning on Aug. 5 and ending on Aug. 30. The winners will be announced in October at the 35th annual Earnie Awards. Good luck to all!

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dallasmarketcenter.com | 214.744.7444

5/17/12 2:55 PM

fresh finds Designed in Florence, Italy, and manufactured in L.A., Mor’baby is a line of infants’ apparel as pure and sweet as the babies who wear it. Designer and creator Morgan Musina says she only uses fabrics she would want to wear herself, like the softest cashmere, French terry, jersey, supima, modal, baby fleece, cotton-cashmere blends and stretch denim. Produced in sizes newborn to 24 months, the line features a carefully chosen color palette spanning soft pastels to deep navy blues and wholesales from $25 to $141. Visit www.morganmusina.com.

Founded by a pediatrician and mother of three, L.A.-based Zopheez offers a safe and effortless option for dressing babies and toddlers with its easy-on, easy-off designs.

Available in 100 percent cotton for boys and girls in sizes 3 to 24 months, the outfits have no confusing snaps to line up, waist ties or buttons; instead, they feature just one zipper down the front for getting dressed and one down below for quick diaper changes.

Wholesale prices range from $24 to $32. Visit www.zopheez.com.

With a nod to the great outdoors, the heritage-inspired debut collection from Homespun Vintage hearkens 1950s camping and hiking with plenty of washed cottons, plaids, checks and stripes. Core pieces for fall include a washed-to-perfection army jacket, complete with retro patches, and Fair Isle knit sweaters. Available for boys and girls in sizes 12 months to 6 years, the line wholesales for $12 to $44.

Check out www.homespunvintage.com.

Inspired by how kids see the world, L.A.based The Little Hummingbird creates contemporary clothing for girls’ sizes 2 to 8.

Rather than relying on embellishment, this made-in-the-USA brand focuses on smaller details like contrast-fabric appliqués, buttons and water-based non-toxic ink illustrations for its 100 percent cotton dresses, ponchos, coats and tees. Wholesale prices range from $22 to $39. Visit www.thelittlehummingbird.com.

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Pipopipo, a baby and toddler apparel and accessory company for children from newborn to 5 years, launches for Fall ’12 with one-of-a-kind sock sets featuring whimsical characters packaged in ecofriendly, reusable bamboo boxes. Moisture-wicking and thermal-regulating, these non-slip socks keep feet cozy and dry while entertaining wearers with squeezable 3-D faces. Socks are available in packs of three for boys and girls and retail at $35. Visit www.pipopipoclothing.com.

Schoolbags for Kids was born with the pledge that for every backpack sold, another full of school supplies would be given to a child in need.

The bags’ elongated widths allow books, art projects and even a laptop to be stowed in an orderly fashion, while interior pockets hold pencils and markers. Wide, cushioned straps distribute weight in a safe, comfortable way. Wholesale prices range from $5 for a pencil case to $34.50 for a large backpack. Visit www.schoolbagsforkids.com.

Mini explorers can roam with confidence in Kirsten Licet, a collection of comfortable yet stylish shoes for boys and girls. Details like buckles and studs add an edge to little ladies’ boots while floral embroidery keeps things sweet. Boys will love the animal-themed sneakers that come complete with ears and tails. Padded collars add comfort to handcrafted leather uppers, and Thermoplastic rubber soles are weatherresistant and offer lightweight flexibility.

Wholesale prices range from $12 to $28. Visit www.kirstenlicet.com.

Chicago-based designer Lindsey Berns creates a classic look for kids with vintage deniminspired styles for girls’ sizes 12 months to 4 years. Along with her signature appliqué peasant blouses and vintage denim pantaloons, standouts for fall include winterwhite peplums, drop-waist pleats, sweatshirt dresses and capelets, asymmetrical shearling vests and leather motorcycle leggings.

Wholesale prices range from $22 to $54. Check out www. lindseyberns.com.

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hot properties

S Minnie Mouse Gets the Baby Treatment TINY TOTS CAN take one of Disney’s most popular characters everywhere from lunchtime in the kitchen to a stroll in the park with Graco’s new collection of five Minnie Mouse essentials for mealtime, playtime, in the nursery and on the go.

Included in the collection are the Pack ‘n Play playard that comes with a rocking seat, soft toy bar, removable bassinet for naptime, changing table and built-in shelves; the Contempo Premiere highchair that features a convertible harness, six height positions and three recline levels, a dishwasher-safe removable tray and a machine-washable seat pad; the Fast Action Fold LX stroller, a sturdy yet lightweight product that accommodates kids kf je +& fekdZi1 W Idk]H_Z[ )& infant car seat that’s equipped with a canopy visor and body insert for added protection and comfort; and the Sweet Snuggle soothing swing that includes four seating positions and six swing speeds, a deep plush seat, a canopy with soft toys and '+ ied]i$ The products, licensed by Disney Baby, are available at retailers like 8WX_[iÇHÈKi WdZ h[jW_b \hec ''/$// je ('/$//$ ÇM[ Wh[ j^h_bb[Z je _djheduce this new Minnie Mouse collection for parents who want to bring a little Disney magic into everyday b_\[ m_j^ j^[_h XWXo"È dej[i @[Wdd_d[ D’Addario, vice president of Disney Moms and Babies for Disney Consumer Products. “The collection’s whimsical Minnie Mouse design and soothing, fresh color scheme reflects the fun but fashion-forward look today’s moms are seeking.”

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Sunny Days, Snazzy Watches

PRE-SCHOOL POWERHOUSE Sesame Street teaches kids everything from the alphabet to the days of the week, and now—thanks to a collaboration with Viva Time Corp, a staple in the watch-making industry for more than 30 years—it’ll have them telling time, too. Viva Time is incorporating its high-quality craftsmanship into a range of bright and playful Sesame Street watches that are set to hit retailers like Urban Outfitters and Hallmark Gift Stores this month.

Kids can choose from slap watches—perfect for younger children who don’t want to fumble with a strap—and even “furry” options that let Sesame Street lovers feel just like their favorite characters. The watches, which retail for $29.99, are available in Big Bird, Grover, Cookie Monster, Elmo and Oscar the Grouch styles. For more information, contact Jack Anzarouth at jack@vivatime.com.

Pretty Ugly Attracts Licensing Partners PJS, PARTY FAVORS, playthings and more are getting a Pretty Ugly makeover thanks to a slew of recent deals between the Pretty Ugly firm—licensor of the UglyDoll brand, a group of kids’ characters that define ‘ugly’ as distinctive and unique—and a handful of licensees.

Fresh Pretty Ugly partnerships include: UglyDoll-branded party goods, balloons and ceramic ware from Amscan; backpacks, messenger and handbags, totes, zipper pulls, lunch bags, luggage and other school supplies from Fab*Starpoint, which are set to launch next January; fashion headwear, cold weather accessories, hosiery and umbrellas from Accessory Innovations; lunch accessories and kits for Fall ’12 from Thermos; kids’ dinnerware, flatware and drinkware, set

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to hit shelves in January, from Zak Designs; kids’ and juniors’ fleece apparel and T-shirts from Freeze; children’s sleepwear and robes from Komar; and infants’, toddlers’, kids’ and teens’ socks and legwarmers from United Legwear. Interested retailers can contact teresa@uglydolls.com.

5/17/12 9:05 AM

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NINE THINGS

7 A.M. Enfant winter boots

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3 4 Elks & Angels take-me-home booties

Frye rodeo bootie

Ugg sheepskin-lined boot

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Livie & Luca auto-themed shoes

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Stuart Weitzman sparkle Mary Janes

Old Soles classic sneakers

BOOTIES, SNEAKERS AND SHOES, OH MY! Footwear fit for the most fashionable newborns.

BY MARIA BOUSELLI

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Vans checked slip-ons

Western Chief Hello Kitty pull-on rain boots

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5/17/12 1:20 PM

Little Me Accessories

Visit us at: ENK Kids Show

Kids Show - Las Vegas

Showroom:

For more information contact:

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ON TREND DISNEY

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MAGIC KINGDOM 1 bow-embellished wallet by Loungefly 2 Mighty Fine T-shirt 3 Crocs shoes 4 bib set by A.D. Sutton 5 MiYim plush Piglet 6 Cinderella-inspired T-shirt by Imoga 7 Graco Minnie Mouse swing 8 T-shirt by Patterson J. Kincaid 9 LeSportsac It’s a Small World bag 10 Atsuyo et Akiko character pillows 11 Petunia Pickle Bottom It’s a Small World -inspired diaper bag 12 Kids Preferred plush rattle

PHOTOGRAPHER: TIM JONES. FASHION EDITOR: ANGELA VELASQUEZ

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ON TREND PRO SPORTS

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TEAM PLAYER 1 Outerstuff Adidas-branded MLS windbreaker 2 NBA backpack by Mojo 3 Designs by Chad and Jake embroidered NBA robe 4 National Design double-sided NFL puzzle set 5 NHL polo shirt by Antigua 6 NFL booties by Skidders 7 Trends International NFL poster 8 NBA dress by Klutch 9 NFL trash can by Fremont Die 10 Oyo Sportstoys MLB figurine

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ON TREND BOOKS

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CHARACTER DRIVEN 1 Silverlicious book from HarperCollins Children’s and Madame Alexander doll 2 Scholastic The Magic School Bus book 3 Penguin Group USA book and plush The Very Hungry Caterpillar by Kids Preferred 4 New-Gen comic by Marvel Comics 5 book by American Girl 6 Viz Media Pokémon book 7 Harry Potter book by Scholastic 8 Pocoyo book by Random House Children’s Books 9 Dinosaur Train book by Publications International 10 Kids Preferred Disney book 11 MerryMakers Skippyjon Jones puppet and Penguin Group USA book 12 Viz Media Mr. Men Little Miss book 13 Clifford the Big Red Dog book by Scholastic 14 Goodnight Moon pajamas and book by Books to Bed

PHOTOGRAPHER: TIM JONES. FASHION EDITOR: ANGELA VELASQUEZ

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THE EUROPEAN ISSUE

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AWAY FROM HOME: DWELLSTUDIO TALKS APPAREL

Oh Baby!

BIG, BOLD BEAUTIFUL

CASH CROP: EXPLORING THE COTTON SPIKE FASHIONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S NEW TRADITIONALISTS

La Dolce Vita: Our Pitti Bimbo Report Group Buying: Deal or No Deal?

Swim Denim

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5/21/12 2:00 PM

SPOTLIGHT APPAREL

Wholesale: $10-$17 Sizing: 4-14

Actively Delicious Limeapple creator Debbie Naren dishes on what inspires her brand’s new looks.

HER DAUGHTERS’ ON-THE-GO lifestyles motivated Debbie Naren to create the activewear line Limeapple for young girls.

“There wasn’t a lot in the market and the clothes were fairly boring,” she says. “I wanted to make something a little bit more fun.”

Naren launched the Canada-based brand _d (&&) m_j^ W i_cfb[ c_ii_ed0 je fheZkY[ comfortable, quality, attractive and functional activewear for girls who are always on the move. “They might go skating, then go to a volleyball game, and there’s not a lot

of time to change,” Naren says. “You can pack [the clothes] in a bag and they don’t crush or smell.” All Limeapple apparel is pre-shrunk to ensure proper fit, and the supplex fabric allows stretch while keeping the shape. The fabric is anti-bacterial and odor-repelling, and the activewear line is also pilling-resistant.

The brand has expanded over the years to include swim, team and sportswear lines.

The latter even features specialty pieces for activities such as gymnastics, dance, skating and cycling. “I haven’t seen another line like our Limeapple sport collection for little girls,” Naren notes.

These young, active girls are the main source of inspiration for Limeapple designs.

Naren says she often holds focus groups with ]_hbi W][i - je '* je ][j j^[_h ef_d_edi ed ideas for next season’s collection, and these groups can lead to inspiration for new products and designs. “We have a ‘bubble hoodie’ that the girls love. It’s really comfortable, but some of the skaters couldn’t wear it on the ice. So for fall, we added a zip-up jacket with the same fabric,” Naren explains. Girls participating in the focus groups not only influence but are also sometimes part of the design process. Recently, they were even able to color in a swimsuit and the designers used their prints and color palettes in the line’s new collection. “I think in the end, [the focus group] helps the clothing appeal to the right people,” Naren adds.

The design director also notes that she works hard to keep the line’s apparel affordable for moms who have to buy new clothing for their growing children every year.

B_c[Wffb[ J#i^_hji m^eb[iWb[ \eh '& WdZ Zh[ii[i Wl[hW][ WhekdZ '-$ 7Yj_l[m[Wh jefi WdZ Xejjeci ijWhj Wj '( [WY^ WdZ XeZoik_ji" d[m \eh j^[ \Wbb Yebb[Yj_ed" Yeij '+$ If retailers are unsure of what to buy for their stores, Limeapple offers a starter pack \eh _ji WYj_l[m[Wh b_d[" m^_Y^ _dYbkZ[i '& e\ _ji jef#i[bb_d] _j[ci \eh +&&" Wbceij W (&#f[hY[dj Z_iYekdj e\\ m^eb[iWb[ fh_Y[i$ “I just want kids to love our clothes,” Naren says of the brand. “I think everything else just falls into place if the product is great.” —Maria Bouselli

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5/17/12 9:08 AM

SPOTLIGHT SHOES

Hop to the Top

Wholesale: $24-$35 Sizing: 3.5-7 youth

The Ward twins reinvent retro brand KangaRoos with their children’s collection.

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ON THE BLOCK RETAIL SPOTLIGHT

LESTER’S LIGHTS THE WAY

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PHOTOGRAPHY BY McCANDLISS AND CAMPBELL

One of the New York area’s biggest children’s retailers spills the secrets about how it’s thrived in the industry for more than 60 years.

By Mary Avant

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MILLION LIVES THIS CAT’S GOT some serious street cred.

Evidenced by 8.4 million and counting Facebook followers, Hello Kitty reigns as the most popular mark of the $5-billion global giant Sanrio. Now, iWoi @Wd[j >ik" Y^_[\ ef[hWj_d] e\\_Y[h b[WZ_d] j^[ new kitty culture, the cat has set her sights on the infant and toddler market, a move that was based on demand. A segment of Hello Kitty’s devoted fans poised all over the world are having children and demanding kitty-fied nurseries and wardrobes for their offspring.

The fabulous feline’s roots were decidedly simple: She was created je Xh_d] f[efb[ ^Wff_d[ii WdZ mWi j^[ m_dd_d] e\\[h_d] e\ W '/-* Z[i_]d Yedj[ij ^[bZ Xo IWdh_e$ Kdb_a[ cWdo b_Y[di[Z fhef[hj_[i ed the market, Hsu points out, she did not have a production company, videos, TV shows, movies or games when she entered the market.

Now, nearing her 38th birthday (“anniversary,” I’m corrected by Hsu), it’s clear that the world audience has embraced her wholeheartedly. In fact, there’s barely a consumer product that doesn’t have a super-kawaii Hello Kitty version of it, be it toaster, refrigerator, T-shirt or fine jewelry. Goods span a lion-sized price hWd][" \hec +& Y[dji je +&"&&&" WdZ j^[ YecfWdo [l[d [nfbeh[i double-dip licensing—a licensor partnering with another licensor to create a unique product, as they recently did with rock band Kiss and are poised to do with Elvis Presley.

Hsu gives us some insight into the powerhouse puss and her vision as the first female COO at Sanrio.

Janet Hsu, new chief operating officer of Sanrio—holder of arguably the cutest license in the world, Hello Kitty—talks about the sheer volume and variety of Hello Kitty goods and reveals her plans for the cat to take a bigger leap this year into the North American infant/toddler market.

By Jennifer Cattaui

How do you feel being the first woman to serve as chief operating officer of Sanrio?

It’s definitely special and it’s an honor. My appointment as the first female COO demonstrates Sanrio’s continuing philosophy of empowerment. It’s especially meaningful because we are such a femalecentered brand, and I really want to inspire girls everywhere of all ages, especially as to career choices.

Tell me a bit about what you hope to bring to Sanrio in this position.

I sincerely look forward to growing this brand, managing it alongside the growth and, of course, internally within Sanrio, creating the best team with the greatest work environment—not traditional, but very contemporary in thinking and modern. We always want to think

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Z_\\[h[djbo WdZ dej X[ _d j^[ Xen$ M[ mWdj je j^_da WXekj ^em j^[ mehbZ _i Y^Wd]_d]" X[YWki[ _\ oek ^Wl[ W ]h[Wj XhWdZ WdZ dkhjkh[ _j" oek ][j W ]h[Wj YecfWdo WdZ j^[h[\eh[ W ]h[Wj [nf[h_[dY[ \eh \Wdi$ ?jÊi Wbb b_da[Z$ J^[ kbj_cWj[ eX`[Yj_l[ _i je WbmWoi Yh[Wj[ ikhfh_i_d] WdZ Z[b_]^j\kb [nf[h_[dY[i \eh ekh \Wdi$ M[ mWdj je _dif_h[ WdZ Xh_d] ^Wff_d[ii" m^_Y^ _i _d b_d[ m_j^ m^o >[bbe A_jjo mWi Yh[Wj[Z$ What was your background? ?Êl[ X[[d m_j^ IWdh_e \eh `kij el[h \ekh o[Whi$ Co XWYa]hekdZ _i h[Wbbo Z_l[hi[$ ?Êl[ X[[d ed Wbb i_Z[i e\ j^[ Xki_d[ii0 h[jW_b" m^eb[iWb[" cWdk\WYjkh_d] WdZ b_Y[di_d]$ ?Êl[ meha[Z Wj 8beec_d]ZWb[Êi WdZ BehZ JWobeh" CWjj[b WdZ Hello C=7 ;dj[hjW_dc[dj$ ? X[b_[l[ Kitty [l[hom^[h[ ?Êl[ X[[d ^Wi Yedgarden jh_Xkj[Z je co ckbj_#Z_c[di_edWb dress WffheWY^ WdZ co WX_b_jo je m[Wh ie by cWdo Z_\\[h[dj ^Wji$ Misha

What sections or aspects of the lifestyle brand are being focused upon?

M[Êl[ WbmWoi Wff[Wb[Z je Y^_bZh[d WdZ j^[ '. je )* WdZ kf hWd][$ Q7YYehZ_d] je >[bbe A_jjo ijWji" j^[h[Êi .) f[hY[dj WmWh[d[ii Wced] ]_hbi , je '' o[Whi ebZ WdZ .& f[hY[dj WmWh[d[ii Wced] \[cWb[i \hec '. je )*$S J^[ d[m[h f_[Y[ \eh ki ^Wi X[[d j^[ _d\Wdj YWj[]eho" X[YWki[ j^ei[ ceci m^e ]h[m kf m_j^ >[bbe A_jjo Wh[ ^Wl_d] XWX_[i$ 9khh[djbo _d _d\Wdj%jeZZb[h" m[ Wh[ YebbWXehWj_d] m_j^ C_i^W Bkbk$ M[ Wbie ^Wl[ W dkcX[h e\ ej^[h _d\Wdj%jeZZb[h _d_j_Wj_l[i Yec_d] \ehmWhZ j^_i o[Wh" m^_Y^ m[ YWdÊj gk_j[ jWba WXekj o[j$ 8kj ijWo jkd[Z0 FheZkYj i^ekbZ ijWhj X[_d] h[b[Wi[Z _d j^[ i[YedZ ^Wb\ e\ j^[ o[Wh$ It’s interesting that you are collaborating with small, boutique brands—is this a trend or something you are growing?

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Lulu.

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What sort of trends do you see in the licensing space? ? j^_da j^[ jh[dZi cWo X[ h[bWj[Z je ^em j^[ mehbZ _i Y^Wd]_d]Æb_a[ X[Yec_d] ceh[ [Ye#YediY_eki$ 7bie" j^[ ]hemj^ e\ j^[ Z_]_jWb mehbZ ^Wi ^WZ W i_]d_\_YWdj _cfWYj" _dYh[Wi_d] Yecckd_YWj_ed c[Z_kci WdZ Wbbem_d] WYj_l[ Yecckd_YWj_ed" b_a[ ed <WY[Xeea$ J^[ ]beXWb cWha[jfbWY[ ^Wi X[Yec[ ceh[ _cfehjWdj" jee$ What international market is particularly important right now? Is there somewhere you are seeing a lot of growth?

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Dej je ]_l[ jee ckY^ _d\ehcWj_ed" Xkj m[ ^Wl[ Z_\\[h[dj fWhjd[hi m^e ikffehj Z_\\[h[dj Wif[Yji e\ ekh Xki_d[ii$ ?jÊi dej WbmWoi j^[ X_]][ij fbWo[h ed j^[ XbeYa$ M[ beea \eh fWhjd[hi m^e YWd Z[b_l[h W c[Wd_d]\kb [nf[h_[dY[ j^hek]^ W gkWb_jo fheZkYj$ J^Wj YekbZ X[ Wdoj^_d] \hec W ZebbWh _j[c je W l[ho ^_]^#[dZ" ceh[ Yeijbo f_[Y[ e\ `[m[bho$ M[ ^Wl[ fWhjd[hi m^e

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create environmentally friendly products and others who cater to our niche consumers. Recently, we announced a partnership with Dial, which is a company that can hit many different channels with inexpensive items like hand soaps. We also just announced a partnership with Hanky Panky for lingerie, combining the sophisticated side of Hanky Panky with the cute side of Hello Kitty to create a unique, new experience. Partners might be industry leaders or design leaders or they take a completely new approach that resonates with the heart of the brand.

What accounts for the fascination with this brand?

For Sanrio, the philosophy has always been, “Small gift, big smile.” It’s about being truly able to impact one’s life—in a small way but with a delightful experience.

Are there any new properties at Sanrio?

We just acquired Mr. Men and Little Miss, so you’ll see activity there as well. There are so many entertainment-driven brands and lines created in the digital space. The difference for Sanrio is that neither Hello Kitty nor any of our other properties have been created specifically for entertainment, and that’s such a major difference. The same with Mr. Men and Little Miss—the brands just have a following. These evergreen lines prosper, as there is a true resonance with the customer.

Have the ups and downs of the economy affected you significantly?

There have definitely been economic challenges because people have not had as much disposable income, but that goes back to our strategy of being able to offer different experiences at different access points, and we still have that connection, whether it’s a robust time in the economy or a downturn. From a company standpoint, we always want to manage the strategic road to Hello Kitty preserve the brand based upon sneakers by what’s happening in the world. I Vans. think the digital space continues to be more and more important for us, and there are different ways that we can look to connect with our consumer, as well, because communication is very timely and it’s more global.

What role does Facebook play for the Sanrio brands?

It’s a huge part of the connection, and Hello Kitty has more than 8 million fans and is growing every day. We are able to connect instantly and we always make sure that the experience is fantastic because we want it to be a true connection with the brand.

In what ways do you keep that connection authentic?

It’s not a way for us to advertise and not a way to push product.

It’s a way for us to listen, communicate and give fans content they might find enjoyable.

Personally, what were your first Hello Kitty products? ? ^WZ W `[m[bho Xen" j^[ >[bbe A_jjo [hWi[hi WdZ j^[ f[d$

There’s a lot of talk about different routes to manufacturing, 3-D printing and the like. Is this capturing your attention?

Anything new and different captures our attention. We’re always evaluating how that connects with our brand and what the experience is in the end. One of the objectives has been to stay true to the brand and its experience. So even though there might be so many new and different things out there, it’s not always going to fit with us, but it might. If it delivers that experience, we will definitely be on it.

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“We really wanted to satisfy the lifestyle perspective by having products that touch every part of a consumer’s world.”

Chenille infant cardigan by new Hello Kitty licensee, Barefoot Dreams.

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IN

CHANCES ARE, IF you spend even five minutes in a store—whether it’s the local Walmart or a fast-fashion chain like H&M—you’ll see your fair share of licensed products. Everywhere shoppers turn today, they’re met with item after branded item featuring characters and logos from their favorite movies, bands or TV shows. The question isn’t whether licensing is a popular sales scheme—that’s apparent, given that The NPD Group’s Kids Industry Data I[hl_Y[ h[fehj[Z j^Wj Y^_bZh[dÊi b_Y[di[Z iWb[i ^_j (- X_bb_ed _d (&''ÆXkj" rather, it’s how to cash in on the craze.

More and more frequently, licensors, brands and retailers are turning to a new and growing solution: boutique licensing, a form of branding that elevates the everyday Mickey Mouse item into a high-end, high-quality and high-fashion product that can’t be found on every other street corner. “There’s a difference between a Mickey Mouse T-shirt you get at Walmart and something that’s designed by a high-end licensee that’s used to dealing in the boutique marketplace,” notes Marty Brochstein, SVP of the International Licensing Industry Merchandisers’ Association (LIMA). And since a number of factors are setting the stage for this subdivision of licensing to thrive—the fact that almost a fourth of purchases for children are licensed items is just one of these—now may be the perfect time for boutique retailers to jump aboard.

The Case for Boutique Licensing ?j cWo iekdZ b_a[ W Xhea[d h[YehZ" Xkj m_j^ j^[ K$I$ WdZ ]beXWb [Yedec_[i ij_bb on the mend, it might run counterintuitive for retailers to turn toward highend, higher-priced items to draw in sales. However, it’s the high-income and middle-tier consumers who are getting back on their shopping feet and setj_d] j^[ ijW][ \eh Xekj_gk[ b_Y[di_d]Êi ikYY[ii" dej[i :[XhW @e[ij[h" fh[i_Z[dj WdZ 9;E e\ j^[ @e[ij[h Beh_W Group, a licensing firm that represents brands like Pepsi and Annoying Orange. “Retail results show that higher-end product is selling well, as higher income consumers return to shopping for their favorite brands and new trends,” she reports. And since customers are increasingly willing to shell out big bucks for finer-quality items, licensors, brands and retailers can now take advantage of these higher-margin items.

Plus, due to the explosion of blogs and social media over the past few years, licensors and brands are finding that high-end licensing creates the type of interest that not even the best-planned PR efforts can spark. “Brand owners and licensors have been eager to build buzz and elevate their brands by cobranding with designers, creating boutique collections and reinforcing the Wff[Wb e\ j^[_h XhWdZ[Z fheZkYji Wced] ef_d_ed b[WZ[hi"È @e[ij[h [nfbW_di$ In addition, because consumers are becoming more web savvy, they have better access to high-end, often-limited-run collaborations. “In the past, these collections only received visibility through placement in fashion magazines and to customers who frequented high-end boutiques and finer department stores,” says Stephanie Kraus, vice president of softlines product development for Disney Consumer Products, which has collaborated with everyone from Dolce & Gabbana to kids’ brand Atsuyo et Akiko. “The Internet has broken down those limitations, exposing more consumers to these collaborations and offering them a mechanism in which to purchase these pieces.”

CHARACTER

A growing number of boutiques are stocking high-end licensed products, cashing in on parents’ nostalgia and desire to make their kids stand out.

BY M A RY AVAN T

The Good and the Bad Not only is the time ripe for a surge in boutique licensing, but license-holders and kids’ brands are buying into it for good reason. As mentioned, the children’s market may be drowning in a sea of branded products, but high-end offerings

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give diluted licenses a chance to regain and retain their hard-fought-for value.

“These days, Disney is so prevalent,” states Heajung Chung, creative director of children’s brand Imoga, who teamed up with the kids’ entertainment giant in 2011 for a high-end collaboration that resulted in sophisticated and classic pieces for little ladies based on characters like Bambi and Winnie the Pooh.

“By having a high-end collection, they wanted to bring their Disney line to a more artistic level,” Chung says. Instead of featuring characters on items in the collection, Imoga’s designs are inspired by the personality of each lovable character. For example, for the Bambi collection, Chung channeled an Audrey Hepburn style to create charming, elegant pieces with a unique quality that Disney—and her consumers—adored.

Not to mention, taking on big-name licenses opens up a whole new world for smaller brands like Imoga. Joe Salazar, CEO of Misha Lulu, a kids’ lifestyle brand that began producing Hello Kitty collections in Fall ’11, says that the brand’s involvement with the über-popular license allowed it to tap into a massive pool of Hello Kitty fans. “People who wouldn’t buy Misha Lulu in the first place are being introduced to the brand through this collaboration,” Salazar notes, adding that boutique licensing helps nurture smaller brands like his own. In turn, retailers reap the benefits that come along with an expanded fan base—namely, more sales.

However, whatever the advantages, this growing breed of licensing has its own set of challenges. First, because the economy is still on the rebound, consumers and retailers continue to place a major emphasis on value, even—or especially—in the high-end sphere. “The challenge is to still be able to put into the product the really great, higher-end fabrics and decoration and make sure that value is still there,” points out Nina Leong, SVP of licensing for Saban Brands, owner of the popular Paul Frank franchise. “Even the small momand-pop [stores] are all pushing back for higher margins.”

Another difficulty—which may actually be more of a blessing than a curse— involves the limited quantity of many licensed boutique collections. “There’s that consumer who understands that [exclusivity] and gets the collection the second it comes out,” explains Jill Koch, SVP of brand management for Sanrio, owner of the Hello Kitty brand. “But there are other consumers who don’t play in that world that much and get frustrated. You have to balance the demand with the limited quantity.”

And for brands and retailers just venturing into the boutique licensing market, it can prove challenging. “It was very tough in the beginning,” Imoga’s Chung says. “When I actually presented to the market, retailers weren’t too happy about it because they didn’t want to compete with the Disney store.”

However, she reports that once retailers and consumers witnessed the collection’s quality firsthand, selling the Fall ’12 line was a cinch. “Now I’m having a lot of positive feedback,” Chung says, noting that she even gets emails straight from shoppers praising her branded work.

From top: Hello Kitty-themed Misha Lulu dress; Paul Frank T-shirt and monkeyadorned khaki shorts.

Capturing the Parent Market As much as boutique licensing is giving brands and licensors a leg up in the kids’ market, it can also be a major boost for high-end and boutique retailers, mostly because it’s the parents who are strongly drawn to licensed items.

Sure, kids love to wear their favorite Disney characters on a T-shirt, but it’s mom and dad whose fond memories of Sesame Street or their favorite ’80s band are willing to shell out big bucks for finer-quality licensed products. “If the parents are shopping in that environment to begin with, they’re prequalified as to the amount they’re looking to spend, but it has to hit a chord,” LIMA’s Brochstein explains. “If you’re shopping in a boutique and you come upon a Sesame Street character well-executed in a high-quality garment and it strikes a chord with a parent, that’s part of the evaluation of, ‘Is it worth it?’ ” That nostalgia-driven purchasing is one of the reasons high-end boutiques and retailers should stick with tried-and-true licenses, advises Tina Burgos,

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$27 BILLION

LICENSED SALES FOR KIDS IN 2011

From left: Imoga’s Minnie Mouse-inspired collection; retro raglan from Rowdy Sprout.

owner of Boston-based Monkey and the Bug. “Those characters have stood the test of time, and not only because they’re really popular with children, but with the parents, as well,” she says. “Personally, I wouldn’t spend $45 on a cotton T-shirt if it doesn’t have some major grab. It’s not just about the product itself; it’s about the lifestyle and the nostalgia.”

In addition, for licensed products to capture the attention and dollars of picky, high-end shoppers, there’s no room to skimp on quality. “People who go to these stores are looking for something that doesn’t look cheap and that looks more classic,” Imoga’s Chung notes. That’s why band T-shirt brand Rowdy Sprout—whose tees, rompers, dresses and more \[Wjkh[ be]ei \hec XWdZi b_a[ @ekhd[o" J^[ 8[Wjb[i WdZ 8bedZ_[Æki[i W made-in-California cotton poly-blend material and unique trims to offer consumers and retailers top-notch quality. “High-end licensed items have to have a unique graphic or better quality,” points out Gina Rothwell, emd[h e\ a_ZiÊ Xekj_gk[ Ieb 8WXo _d >[hceiW 8[WY^" 97" m^ei[ De$ ' i[bbing brand is Rowdy Sprout. “Their construction is awesome, and that just sets them apart.” Laura Angotti, creator of Rowdy Sprout, says that she’s i[[d '+ je )+ f[hY[dj iWb[i ]hemj^ [WY^ o[Wh" dej_d] j^Wj Ç_j i[bbi ij[WZ_bo and people who buy it continue to place orders.”

High-quality branded items must also stand out from the crowd of licensed offerings on the market. “Make sure the product is differ[dj [dek]^ j^Wj _j YWdÊj X[ \ekdZ Wj j^[ X_] Xen" > C WdZ JeoiÇHÈKi"È

Hej^m[bb WZl_i[i$ Ç?j ^Wi je ^Wl[ iec[j^_d] j^Wj m_bb Z_\\[h[dj_Wj[ W )& item from a $7 item.” Monkey and the Bug’s Burgos says the distinctive quality of Atsuyo et Akiko’s Disney items is the reason she carries the line in her store. “They’re able to do [licensing] in a way that it’s still cool. It’s not a licensed product that would be found in a mainstream children’s shop,” she says of the line, which sells out almost immediately each time the store receives a new shipment. “They’re able to inject their own style into the licensed products.”

Add these qualities together and the result is brands that can help retailers cash in on licensed offerings. “Parents will always spend something on their kids to help them stand out from the crowd,” Misha Lulu’s Salazar maintains. Sanrio’s Koch echoes this sentiment, saying “If a consumer appreciates unique product or items that she won’t see on every other kid in her child’s class, she’ll seek out that unique item.” And not only does high-end licensed product stand out, but it also separates retailers that offer these items from those that don’t. “It sets me apart and gives me the ability to offer something to the customer that they’re not seeing everywhere else in town,” Sol Baby’s Rothwell says. “Most people can relate to something from pop culture, whether it’s a band, retro character or beloved image from their past. By not offering something in that category, a boutique could miss out on those impulse purchases that tug Wj j^[ ^[Whj ijh_d]i$È

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TAILOR-MADE

Made-to-measure custom publishing one stitch at a time.

style

BEARPAW

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THE COOL INDEX

WHAT TYPE OF GIRL ARE YOU? TAKE OUR QUIZ.

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PERFECT FIT Bombarded by a deluge of brands and sizing variations, retailers struggle to maintain a consistent selling floor.

By Lyndsay McGregor

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A

S ANYONE WHO’S ever bought clothes knows, there’s no ikY^ j^_d] Wi W f[h\[Yj i_p[ '&" WdZ \_jj_d] Ybej^[i \eh Y^_bZh[d _i [if[Y_Wbbo Y^Wbb[d]_d]$ Picture the scene: You place a huge order with a new brand you spotted at a trade show, Xkj m^[d _j Whh_l[i" W i_p[ * J#i^_hj beeai b_a[ W ad[[#b[d]j^ Zh[ii ed W jWbb +#o[Wh#ebZ$ 7dZ _j ^Wff[di ceh[ j^Wd oek h[Wb_p[$ Ef[hWj_d] _d jeZWoÊi cWha[j _i WmWi^ m_j^ Y^Wbb[d][i" dej b[Wij m^[d _j Yec[i je i_p_d]$ Feeh \_j _i Yecced WYheii j^[ _dZkijho" b[WZ_d] je X_bb_edi e\ ZebbWhi _d Yeiji \hec h[jkhdi" cWhaZemdi" Wbj[hWj_edi WdZ [nY^Wd][i$ 7dZ _j _idÊj W d[m Z[l[befc[dj0 Ç7i ceij harassed mothers know, size 5 in a little girl’s dress can mean almost anything,” wrote Katherine Graham in a 1948 Washington Post h[fehj ed W i_c_bWh ikX`[Yj$ ÇFbWdd_d] _i W h[Wb Y^Wbb[d][ WdZ m^[d ekh Z[i_]d[hi Wh[dÊj Yedi_ij[dj _d i_p[i" _j X[Yec[i j^Wj ckY^ ceh[ e\ W Y^Wbb[d]["È iWoi 7b[n_i Job[h" emd[h e\ Bebb_[" Wd ;lWdijed" ?B#XWi[Z a_ZiÊ Xekj_gk[ ijeYa_d] \Wi^_ed#\ehmWhZ \Wleh_j[i b_a[ 7ffWcWd" =bk] WdZ F_da 9^_Ya[d$ Ç?jÊi Wd ed]e_d] _iik[$ J^[h[ ^Wl[ X[[d W Yekfb[ e\ j_c[i m^[h[ _jÊi X[[d ie X_] e\ Wd _iik[ j^Wj m[Êl[ ^WZ je i[dZ f_[Y[i XWYa$È 7ddW BekY^^[_c e\ B_jjb[ BkdW 8bk[ _d I^[bXkhd[" LJ" ^Wi [nf[h_[dY[Z j^[ iWc[ fheXb[c0 ÇIec[ YWd X[ _cfeii_Xb[ je i[bb eh oek ^Wl[ je i_p[ kf WdZ j^[d j^[ b[d]j^ _i mhed]"È i^[ iWoi$ ÇJ^[ iWc[ mWo ? [nf[Yj W Y[hjW_d size to fit a certain way on me, I want the same thing for children’s clothing—especially if oekÊh[ i[bb_d] W ^_]^[h#fh_Y[Z XhWdZ$È M^[d >ed] Aed]#XWi[Z a_ZiÊ Ybej^_d] b_d[ 7 \eh 7ffb[ bWkdY^[Z _d (&'&" _ji \ekdZ[hi gk_Yabo Z_iYel[h[Z ^em _cfehjWdj _j _i je meha m_j^ Wd WYYkhWj[ \_j#cWdd[gk_d Wi j^[o ijhk]]b[Z m_j^ i_p_d] je \_j a_Zi _d ;khef[" 9^_dW WdZ j^[ K$I$ Ç<eh ekh \_hij fheZkYj_ed of T-shirts, the necklines were too small and we had to re-make everything,” says co\ekdZ[h WdZ Z[i_]d[h :[d_i[ >e" WZZ_d] j^Wj _j Yeij ^[h oekd] XhWdZ j_c[ WdZ ced[o$ 7j j^[ [dZ e\ j^[ ZWo" Xej^ cWdk\WYjkh[h WdZ h[jW_b[h mWdj je [\\[Yj_l[bo c[[j Ykijec[hiÊ Z[cWdZi" Xkj Wi ;Z =h_XX_d" fh[i_Z[dj e\ \_j#cWdd[gk_d YecfWdo 7blWded" fe_dji ekj" Ç?\ QW Yedikc[hS b_a[i j^[ ijob[ WdZ Z[i_]d WdZ Xh_d]i _j ^ec[ WdZ _j Ze[idÊj \_j" i^[Êi ]e_d] je jWa[ _j XWYa WdZ d[l[h Xko j^Wj XhWdZ W]W_d$È Ever since custom clothing gave way to ready-to-wear, standard sizing has never been ijWdZWhZ$ 9^_bZh[d ]hem Wj Z_\\[h[dj fWY[i WdZ _d Z_\\[h[dj mWoi" WdZ X[YWki[ e\ j^_i" most clothing manufacturers tend to use their own sizing guidelines, designing for speY_\_Y Z[ce]hWf^_Yi$ ÇJ^[h[ ^WidÊj X[[d Wdo ijWdZWhZ _d o[Whi"È iWoi Y^_bZh[dim[Wh fhe\[iieh 8WhXWhW I[]]_e" m^e ^[bfi ]k_Z[ j^[ d[nj ][d[hWj_ed e\ Z[i_]d[hi Wj j^[ <Wi^_ed ?dij_jkj[ e\ J[Y^debe]o <?J _d D[m Oeha 9_jo$ ÇJ^[h[ Wh[dÊj [l[d Wdo d[m Y^_bZh[dim[Wh Xeeai$ I have manufacturers calling me asking if they can use our books—and I have to tell j^[c m[ ZedÊj ^Wl[ Wdo È 7j <?J" I[]]_e WdZ ^[h ijkZ[dji [nfbeh[ _iik[i j^Wj d[[Z je X[ WZZh[ii[Z m^[d Z[i_]d_d] Ybej^_d] \eh Y^_bZh[d" _dYbkZ_d] i_p_d]" WdZ ki[ \_j#cWdd[gk_di

Above: a Fall ’12 look from A for Apple; Left: doublebreasted peacoat

by A for Apple.

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to learn about proportions in layettes, boys’ and girls’ wear, denim, swimwear, sportswear and outerwear. “We purchased all new mannequins recently and they’re very Z_\\[h[dj \hec j^[ ed[i m[ Xek]^j _d j^[ Ê.&i"È i^[ iWoi$ Ç<eh ed[" j^[ ijecWY^i Wh[ bWh][h$È

GETTIN’ TECHY WITH IT

A Fall ’12 look from Appaman.

“Fashion is all about change—every season there are new styles and new colors—yet, behind the scenes, the fashion business is one of the most change-resistant industries in j^[ mehbZ"È =h_XX_d iWoi$ ÇCeij YecfWd_[i ZedÊj jWa[ j^[ j_c[ je Ze j^[ h[i[WhY^ je beea WdZ i[[ m^WjÊi i^_\j[Z$ 7bb oek ^Wl[ je Ze _i beea Wj Wdo d[mifWf[h WdZ oekÊh[ Xecbarded with data about how the population is changing.

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Earlier this year, Alvanon signed A for Apple to its twoyear global mentoring program, an initiative designed to give young designers access to world-class fit consultancy WdZ jeebi$ LWbk[Z Wj *&"&&& f[h Wddkc" j^[ fhe]hWc ^Wi given the brand up to five hours of consultancy a month on a range of crucial fashion fit issues, including target consumer shape analysis, sizing and pattern grading. ÇJ^[oÊh[ ^[bf_d] ki h[Wb_p[ Wbb j^[ É]WfiÊ m[ ^Wl["È >e iWoi$ ÇM[Êh[ meha_d] ij[f Xo ij[f WdZ j^[oÊh[ ]k_Z_d] ki j^hek]^ _j$È Meha_d] m_j^ j^[ YecfWdoÊi \_j#cWdd[gk_di ^Wi Wbie cWZ[ W ^k][ Z_\\[h[dY[" Wbbem_d] j^[ XhWdZ je meha ceh[ efficiently on both its own collection and its line with style [cfeh_kc Ef[d_d] 9[h[cedo$ Ç? ^WZ de _Z[W ^em ckY^ j^[h[ mWi je b[Whd h[]WhZ_d] \_j _d a_Zim[Wh"È i^[ iWoi$

HASH IT OUT

8kj X[\eh[ XhWdZi YWd [l[d cWa[ j^[_h mWo _dje ceciÊ ^WdZi" h[jW_b[hi d[[Z je X[ ^Wffo m_j^ j^[c$ Ç?d ][d[hWb" we have to be able to tell our customers how they run, how j^[o \_j" m^WjÊi ]e_d] je meha ed a_Zi m_j^ Z_\\[h[dj Xk_bZi WdZ m^WjÊi ]e_d] je i^h_da"È iWoi Job[h e\ Bebb_[" Y_j_d] ^_f streetwear line Appaman as a favorite. Boys and girls love 32 ;7HDI>7MI$9EC @KD; (&'(

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“Many retailers don’t take a step back and ask what these kids really look like, what their size and shape is.”

Clockwise from top: a Fall ’12 look from Fore!!

Axel & Hudson; buffalo plaid hooded onepiece by Fore!!

Axel & Hudson; jacket with zippers by Polarn O. Pyret.

(&'( @KD; ;7HDI>7MI$9EC 33

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LICENSED FASHION BRANDS ADD A FINISHING TOUCH TO CLASSIC BACK-TO-SCHOOL LOOKS. Blazer by Ralph Lauren, Grant Garรงon navy blue vest, Scotch Shrunk flannel shirt, Izod by Fishman & Tobin white blouse.

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Blazer by Aston Martin from LOL Kids, Kenzo Kids by Groupe Zannier blouse, Levi’s by Haddad skinny jeans, Paul Smith Jr. by Groupe Zannier messenger bag. Opposite: Hitch-Hiker coat, Levi's by Haddad button-down shirt, Grant Garçon sweater, Jean Bourget by Groupe Zannier jeans.

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Paul Smith Jr. by Groupe Zannier jumpsuit, Kitestrings

by Parigi blazer and gingham shirt, MP thigh highs.

Opposite: Scotch Shrunk plaid jacket and denim shirt, Aston Martin by LOL Kids sweater, Ny & Lon jeans.

38

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Varsity jacket and denim shirt by Scotch Râ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Belle, Ny & Lon jeans. Opposite: Scotch Shrunk plaid blazer, Izod by Fishman & Tobin polo, ruffled shirt by Ralph Lauren, Nukutavake jeans.

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5/21/12 7:55 AM

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Paul Smith Jr. by Groupe Zannier shirt, Junior Gaultier by Groupe Zannier sweater vest, Hitch-Hiker acid wash pants. Opposite: Izod

by Fishman & Tobin corduroy blazer and striped button-down shirt, Nukutavake sweater, Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

by Haddad jeans.

Style Director: Michel Onofrio Fashion Editor: Angela Velasquez Hair and Makeup: Wendy Karcher @ Amy Kirkman 42

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CALENDAR

MARKET DATES & EVENTS

JUNE 7-10

Atlanta Apparel Market AmericasMart Atlanta, GA (404) 220-3000 www.americasmart.com

10

PLUSH Vibiana Los Angeles, CA (310) 248-0160 www.plushshow.com

11-14

LA Kids Market California Market Center Los Angeles, CA (213) 630-3683 www.californiamarketcenter.com

17-18

Bubble London Business Design Centre Islington, London + 44 (0)1484 846069 www.bubblelondon.com

20-26

Dallas Total Home & Gift Market Dallas Market Center Dallas, TX (214) 655-6100 www.dallasmarketcenter.com

21-24

KidsWorld Dallas Children’s Apparel & Accessories Market Dallas Market Center Dallas, TX (214) 655-6100 www.dallasmarketcenter.com

28-30

Pitti Bimbo Forteza da Basso Florence, Italy www.pittimmagine.com

er_06_calendar_06.indd 44

JULY 7-9

12-14

The Children’s Great Event Shoe Show The Marriott Teaneck at Glenpointe Teaneck, NJ (718) 769-4251 www.tcgess.com

Playtime Paris Parc Floral de Paris, L’Espace Evenements Paris, France +33 (0)14372 7537 www.playtimeparis.com

13-15

11-18

Atlanta International Gift & Home Furnishings Market AmericasMart Atlanta, GA (404) 220-3000 www.americasmart.com

15-17

KidzBiz Insights The Hotel at Mandalay Bay Las Vegas, NV (603) 785-5510 www.kidzbizinsights.com

AUGUST 4-6

Playtime New York 82 Mercer St. New York, NY (213) 563-7301 www.playtimenewyork.com

5-7

ENK Children’s Club Pier 94, 55th St. @ 12th Ave. New York, NY (212) 759-8055 www.enkshows.com

6-9

LA Kids Market California Market Center Los Angeles, CA (213) 630-3683 www.californiamarketcenter.com

9-12

Copenhagen Fashion Week (CIFFKIDS) Bella Center Copenhagen, Denmark www.ciffkids.dk

United Boston Children’s Wear Show 75 McNeil Way Dedham, MA (781) 407-0055 www. unitedbostonchildrenswear. com

Pitti Bimbo June 28-30 Florence, Italy

9-13

Atlanta Apparel Market AmericasMart Atlanta, GA (404) 220-3000 www.americasmart.com

10-14

North Branch Children’s Show 1229 N. North Branch, 3rd Floor Chicago, IL www.northbranchkids.com

11-13

Kidz at Stylemax 222 Merchandise Mart Plaza 7th Floor Market Suites Chicago, IL (312) 527-7570 www.kidzatstylemax.com

12-13

NW Kids Show DoubleTree by Hilton Seattle, WA www.nwkidsshow.com

12-13

St. Louis Gift Show St. Charles Convention Center St. Charles, MI (513) 861-1139 www.stlouisgiftshow.com

13-17

NY Kids Market 34 West 33rd Street New York, NY (214) 655-6100 www.nykidsmarket.com

16-19

Dallas Apparel & Accessories Market Dallas Market Center Dallas, TX (214) 655-6100 www.dallasmarketcenter.com

17-21

Columbus MarketPlace Gift Show Columbus MarketPlace Dublin, OH (614) 339-5100 www.thecolumbusmarketplace.com

18-21

The Children’s Show at Deerfield Embassy Suites Deerfield, IL (248) 478-1732 www.midwestchildrens apparelgroup.com

5/17/12 1:22 PM

CALENDAR

MARKET DATES & EVENTS

OCTOBER 10

Playtime Tokyo August 28-30 Tokyo, Japan

Atlanta Apparel Market AmericasMart Atlanta, GA (404) 220-3000 www.americasmart.com

14-17

ABC Kids Expo Kentucky Exposition Center Louisville, KY (210) 691-4848 www.theabcshow.com

19-22

New York International Gift Fair Piers 92 & 94, Javits Center New York, NY (800) 272-7469 www.nyigf.com

20-22

KIDShow Bally’s Hotel Las Vegas, NV (908) 232-0867 www.kidshow.cc

21-22

Playground The Cosmopolitan of Las Vegas Las Vegas, NV (213) 622-7039 www.playgroundtradeshow.com

28-30

Playtime Tokyo Belle Salle Shibuya First Tokyo, Japan +81 (3)3793 0057 www.playtimetokyo.com

SEPTEMBER 8-10

Dallas Total Gift & Home Market Dallas Market Center Dallas, TX (214) 655-6100 www.dallasmarketcenter.com

er_06_calendar_06.indd 45

9-11

Michigan Children’s Show Glen Oaks Country Club 30124 W. 13 Mile Rd. Farmington Hills, MI (847) 415-2156

19-23

North Branch Children’s Show 1229 N. North Branch, 3rd Floor Chicago, IL www.northbranchkids.com

20-22

NW Kids Show DoubleTree by Hilton, Seattle, WA www.nwkidsshow.com Editor’s Note: Show details are subject to change. Please call the phone numbers or visit the show websites for up-to-date schedules. Show sponsors may send updates to editorialrequests@9threads.com.

15-18

LA Kids Market California Market Center Los Angeles, CA (213) 630-3683 www.californiamarketcenter.com

Net TULLE Tricot www.tutufabric.com Fashion Fabrics

9-11

The Livonia Children’s Show Embassy Suites Livonia, MI www.midwestchildrensapparelgroup. com

9-12

United Boston Children’s Wear Show 75 McNeil Way Dedham, MA (781) 407-0055 www.unitedbostonchildrenswear.com

13-16

The Indy Children’s Show Embassy Suites North Indianapolis, IN www.midwestchildrensapparelgroup. com

13-16

Kind + Jugend Koelnmesse GmbH Cologne, Germany +49 (0)1805 117017 www.kindundjugend.com

5/17/12 1:22 PM

M ARKETPLACE

Join Earnshawâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Marketplace Earnshaw's Marketplace maximizes small budgets for emerging infant and toddler companies.

Tout your up-and-coming apparel or juvenile product collections to retailers looking for new resources targeting newborns through pre-schoolers.

Call (646) 278-1510 Alexandra.Marinacci@9threads.com

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RETAIL-TO-GO

shoe salon

How to Sell Kids’ Shoes

Brands that offer a variety of sizes and widths:__________________________________

With back-to-school season about to begin, Matt Priest, president of the Footwear Distributors and Retailers of America (FDRA), shares his top tips for selling children’s shoes.

______________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________

Perennial best sellers:______________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________ Highlight proper fit. Shoes that are too big or too small can harm a child’s delicate feet.

Take the time to measure and evaluate the fit based on factors like the flexion, girth and width of a child’s foot, as he or she may require different sizes in different shoes.

Parents will appreciate this attention to detail.

Be the expert they can trust. Help parents understand the growth of their child’s feet and advise them on how often they should have feet measured.

Offer a smorgasbord of shoes. It’s important to offer a variety of sizes and styles, as a store with a reliable inventory is more likely to be visited by shoppers. “There’s nothing more frustrating for me as a father than to go shoe shopping for my kids and only find sizes for one of the three or two of the three.

Everyone is so busy and you only have so many opportunities to shop for footwear,” Priest says.

Be aware of trends. Children are an important part of the buying decision, and if your store is failing to keep up with current trends—be they stylistic, character or pop culture—you’re going to fall behind.

Communication is key. Reach out to customers through “thank you” notes, birthday programs and social media efforts that will help them feel part of a bigger community. And since all those shoes add up, offer coupons and rewards to repeat customers to let them know you value their business.

er_06_retail_to_go_01.indd 47

______________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________

Styles to scale back on:____________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________

Updates in technologies and materials:________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________

Trends to keep an eye on:__________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________

New licenses to check out:_________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________

Ideas for in-store promotions:_______________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________________

5/17/12 9:06 AM

REMIX STYLIST: GAVIN AGE: 2 HOMETOWN: CORTLANDT MANOR, NY Stylists may live and breathe fashion for other people, but when it comes to their own wardrobes, comfortable, casual clothing is essential for a job that requires them to run from showroom to showroom and keep order on the set. So it didn’t come as a huge surprise when Gavin chose a collection of cool, relaxed athletic gear to wear during his turn as a fashion stylist for Earnshaw’s—after all, comfy clothing is key to his life as a rambunctious pre-schooler. On an average day, Gavin sets aside at least nine hours for running around—training for the recreational soccer team he plans on joining soon—and counts swinging on swing sets, riding his plasma car around the house and playing with trains as some of his favorite hobbies.

Gavin confessed that while he had fun picking out “sweats” and making friends at our office, it’s really trains—not fashion—that rev up his engine.

He goes wild for Thomas the Tank Engine, having inherited his older brother’s train table and Thomas toys. Since then, he’s added to the collection with Thomas the Tank Engine DVDs, a Knapford shed to house Thomas and his friends, and a Western Chief rain set. Gavin even celebrated his second birthday with a Thomas-inspired cake. “He was mesmerized,” his mom says. —Angela Velasquez

PHOTOGRAPHY BY McCANDLISS AND CAMPBELL

Clockwise from top right: Adidas-branded MLS sweatshirt by Outerstuff, Fore!!

Axel & Hudson T-shirt, Nike pants by Haddad, sneakers by Tsukihoshi; Western Chief rain coat, Fore!!

Axel & Hudson T-shirt, Levi’s jeans by Haddad, Tsukihoshi sneakers; Puma jacket and tee by Parigi, Nike pants by Haddad, Tsukihoshi sneakers.

48 ;7HDI>7MI$9EC @KD; (&'(

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