Earnshaw's | February 2020 by Wainscot Media

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FEBRUARY 2020 CONTENTS

Noelle Heffernan Publisher Emily Beckman Editor

FEATURES

Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors

8 The AI Revolution is Now Aritifical Intelligence (AI) is capturing and scanning reams of sales data for predictive analytics, tracking consumer behavior and changing retail as we know it. By Lauren Parker

Lauren Parker Executive Editor Mariah Walker Contributing Fashion Editor ADVERTISING Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager

PAGE 18

18 We are Family Fall fashion brings generations closer through coordinating colors, prints and materials. By Mariah Walker

EDITORIAL

PRODUCTION Laurie Guptill Production Manager Mike Hoff Webmaster Bruce Sprague Circulation Director CORPORATE Caroline Diaco VP/Group Publisher

DEPARTM EN TS

Greg Dutter Editorial Director

4 Editor’s Note

Carroll Dowden Chairman

6 Scene & Heard

Mark Dowden President & CEO

14 Be the Buyer 16 Designer Chat

Agnes Alves Controller

28 What’s Selling

9Threads One Maynard Drive Park Ridge, NJ 07656 Tel: (201) 571-2244

32 Final Cut

CONTACT INFO Sales/Editorial Offices 214 W. 39th St., Suite 205 New York, NY 10018

On cover: Asher wears Oeuf hat and jacket with Appaman camo shirt; Sawyer wears Oeuf hat and overalls. Photography by Zoe Adlersberg/ See Management; styling by Mariah Walker/Art Department NYC; hair by Cecilia Romero using TARA; makeup by Rebecca Alexander/ See Management using Glossier; styling assistance by Khalila White.

Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 Advertising@9Threads.com EditorialRequests@ 9Threads.com

This page: Boheme wears Nike one-piece; Stephanie wears Rebecca Minkoff sweater with Jordan top; Sawyer wears Tommy Hilfiger top and Lamborghini pants.

Circulation Office One Maynard Drive Park Ridge, NJ 07656 Tel: (201) 571-2244 Circulation@9Threads.com

Earnshaw’s Infants, GIrls and Boys wEar rEvIEw Issn 0161-2786 (UsPs-320-090) the business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by wainscot Media, 214 west 39th street, suite 205 new york, ny 10018. the publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Wainscot Media. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. wainscot Media will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. no portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in Usa.

E A R N S H AW S . C O M

EDITOR’S NOTE

Love at First Byte AS A YOUNG, single professional living in New York, artificial intelligence (AI) plays an increasing role in my daily life—starting with navigating the Big Apple’s notoriously difficult dating scene. Finding a nice (enough) guy to enjoy dinner and a movie with, let alone finding Mr. Right, now involves a series of swipes left or right based on dating app algorithms that claim to have weeded out my Mr. Wrongs. While not an exact science, these dating services are easier, more efficient and less unpleasant than getting propositioned by creeps in clubs. The AI fueling matchmaker engines is not unlike the AI that now helps connect wholesalers, retailers and consumers. And while it’s all got potential, there are pitfalls to avoid. Allow me to offer a few dating app tips to up your odds of making a meaningful, long-lasting connection. No. 1: Be striking. First impressions are critical. Don’t be “Boring Bob.” Just like a dull dating profile (enough with the gym selfies already!), a blah brand or store profile will trigger a ho-hum reaction. Use professional photography, make sure you have the right size images no matter what platform you are on and be consistent with your imagery. No. 2: Be honest. Don’t be the guy posting pictures from 10 years ago and lying about his job status, height, weight, hairline, etc. Experienced swipers can sniff out poseurs, so “Pinocchio Petes” don’t stand a chance. Shoppers are no different. Their online sleuthing skills mean you’d better be transparent and honest about your product claims and brand values. If you say you use sustainable materials in your merchandise, consumers passionate about such matters can—and will—do a background check in seconds. Walk the walk or suffer the consequences. No. 3: Be unique. Who needs another “Tired Tom?” That shirtless guy hoisting a huge fish he just caught on his big boat… please. This guy lists all the clichés: travel, dogs, cooking and watching The Office as his faves. That “catch” is a dime a dozen. Shoppers respond to one-of-a-kind stores and merchandise

mixes. Amazon has the basics covered, so be a destination for discovery. Offer a few exclusives, if possible. Be the guy who’s not like all the other guys. No. 4: Be current. Don’t be “Dinosaur Dave,” that dude rocking a mullet and raving about the Styx reunion tour this summer. Same goes for your messaging—if it’s as dated as a 30-minute drum solo, it’s going to fall on deaf ears. Be sure to use current key words and phrases to improve search engine optimization. Keyword tools like SEMrush and Google Keyword Planner can help. No. 5: Be a good listener. Everyone likes “Sensitive Sam.” He’s the guy who really listens. He cares about your needs. It’s no different in our industry, where being receptive and reactive to consumers’ wants is paramount. This is where AI can raise the bar to almost clairvoyant levels. The reams of data it generates can help you pinpoint what consumers want—down to the specific styles, colors and sizes—and has the potential to boost your profit margins greatly. This month’s Special Report, “The AI Revolution is Now” (p. 8), explores the ways retailers are using artificial intelligence to analyze sales data, track shopping behavior and streamline the shopping experience. Melissa Shoes, for example, reports success with Facenote, an in-store facial recognition technology that lets customers opt in by snapping a selfie on a digital kiosk (or tagging a selfie on social media). Their image and customer profile pops up for the salesperson, who then makes targeted recommendations. Similarly, Mystore-E’s handheld Tore-E system monitors and analyzes data from all channels in real time, offering merchandising recommendations to store managers so they can move bestsellers into premium positions. It’s all part of a brave new world where razor-sharp AI constantly improves your ability to make meaningful connections with your target audience. In dating app parlance, it’s “Helpful Hal.” He’s (user) friendly. He weeds out the phonies. He earns his keep. He’s attentive. He tells the truth. He doesn’t play games or mince words. Now that’s something to swipe right about!

E M I LY B E C K M A N Editor

E A R N S H AW S . C O M

SC E N E & H E A R D

Snap36 Offers 360° Photo Capabilities

BRICK-AND-MORTARS have always had the advantage of consumers being able to physically pick up a product and view it from every angle. And while e-commerce sites usually offer multiple photos of the same item (top, bottom, sides), the ability for shoppers to manipulate the piece to any degree has always been impossible—until now. Spin photography company Snap36 shoots product for a non-restricted 360° view. “When a

consumer visits a site using Snap36, that customer is in charge,” says Jeff Hunt, founder and CEO. “They can select certain angles to look at and zoom in, plus view the top and bottom, which is particularly important in the fashion market.” The Snap36 experience is created by rotating a product every 15 degrees while photographing it from multiple angles. Editors then digitally stitch the images together, while ensuring the photos will load quickly—keeping in mind the average customer expects a website to load in two seconds or less. “We’ve found companies that use our product report a 30 to 50 percent higher conversion rate,” Hunt says, touting a diverse portfolio of around 700 customers, including Macy’s, Rack Room Shoes, Puma and Vera Bradley. Clients can either ship merchandise to the company’s 42,000-square-foot studio to be photographed, purchase the equipment to shoot on their own or have Snap36 staff visit for an onsite photography session.

Shade Critters Launches Girls’ Fashion Line SWIMWEAR COMPANY Shade Critters is expanding from the water to the wardrobe with a new standalone fashion line to sell year-round. Called Nev & Lizzie, the line is targeted to girls aged 7-16 and will launch at the February edition of Children’s Club in time for the Fall/Holiday selling season. “Nev & Lizzie fills that important niche between too casual and too dressy,” says Fred and Maureen Schmidt, mentioning their frustration with the market’s limited shopping options for their daughter’s ‘Insta-moments’ like a daddy/daughter dance, back-to-school, picture day, birthdays and holidays, where athleisure/casual “just didn’t work.” Named after daughter Genevieve and Maureen’s mom Elizabeth, the initial Fall collection features elevated sweater dresses, A-line dresses with metallic detailing, plus separates like pullovers, ultra-soft pleather leggings, accordion skirts and teddy fabric coats. Mixed media knits with unexpected sleeve and fabrication details plus on-trend animal prints and unexpected metallics up the fashion quotient. Wholesale prices range from $22-$60. While not coordinated with the Earniewinning Shade Critters swimwear line, Nev & Lizzie aims to be equally eye-catching. “Our top retailers have already secured the line before market after an exclusive look,” says

E A R N S H AW S . C O M

Fred. “The feedback re-affirms our belief that although the market has embraced casual looks, girls are still excited to have outfits for her picture-perfect moments.”

IMC Launches Digital Innovation Division INTERNATIONAL Market Centers (IMC), operator of the AmericasMart Atlanta and Las Vegas Market, among others, has launched a new B2B e-commerce division called IMC_di, short for IMC Digital Innovations, which will offer vendors an integrated platform to reach new buyers, capture leads and grow sales. “IMC_di’s customer-centric digital tools will connect physical and digital markets and will amplify the B2B and person-to-person experiences that make our markets so special,” says Robert Maricich, CEO of IMC. “This new digital platform will enhance and extend IMC’s physical markets—connecting hundreds of thousands of buyers and sellers and will open new business opportunities for customers.” To create this new division, IMC acquired two technology companies focused on the gift, home furnishings and apparel industries: Pharos, formerly a division of Whereoware, and RepZio. Pharos is an integrated sales, marketing and commissioning software made for the gift and home furnishings industry. RepZio is a patented B2B sales solution and digital marketplace enabling wholesale vendors and buyers to connect. As for how this will impact sales reps, Maricich believes it’s only going to make their jobs easier. “We’re not looking to obliviate reps,” he says. “Customers value their relationships with reps, and we want to enhance that relationship.” In addition to supplier and buyer benefits, the new division’s products will bridge physical and digital sales and work in harmony with multi-line sales agencies. The new team includes engineers, seasoned developers and software marketers. Within the next 12 months, the team is slated to hire 50 to 75 additional full-time employees with an emphasis on solutionbased product development, handson customer success and onboarding, and user experience.

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S PECI A L R E P OR T

The AI Revolution is Now Artificial Intelligence (AI) is capturing and scanning reams of sales data for predictive analytics, tracking consumer behavior and changing retail as we know it. By Lauren Parker

E A R N S H AW S . C O M

IMAGE: FACENOTE

to research product specifications, ratings or prices, they will expect here’s a scene in the sci-fi movie Minority Report that must the best offerings to be preselected for them,” says Robert Hetu, an be every marketer’s dream. As Tom Cruise’s character huranalyst for Gartner, a retail technology company. “Retailers that canries through a futuristic airport, sensors scan his eyes and not successfully leverage prescriptive product recommendations will holographic billboards pop up, calling out to him by name find themselves outside of the path to purchase.” with product suggestions. How’s that for targeted marketing? While It’s one thing to be able to gather we’re not at the face-scanning stage reams of data, but acting on it in yet, geofencing is a close second, a timely, accurate and profitable and the rate at which brands and manner is where AI comes into retailers are investing in gatherplay. AI helps data work harder ing, analyzing and implementing and smarter for retailers. AI tools consumer data shows we’re well enable retailers to improve assorton our way to a brave new world ment and allocation planning, pullwhere AI will be as essential to ing in data on local and cultural retail as sidewalk sales. According trends, weather and sales statisto Coresight Research, 41 percent tics. AI helps retailers get the right of retailers plan to invest in AI product, in the right amount, at and machine learning solutions the right stores, at the right time. in the next year. “This improves overall supply AI is something millions of conchain efficiency and maximizes sumers, especially younger generthe chances that customers get ations, see as beneficial and not an the products they desire in the invasion of privacy. In fact, there sizes they need,” says Michael are about 650 million members of Ferraro, executive director the “Generation AI” (born after 2010 FIT/Infor Design and Technology and currently spanning ages 5 Lab. Such heightened accuracy through 9) who will begin spendwill help reduce the overstocks ing their own money in the next A Melissa Shoes salesperson uses the store’s facial recognition platform to offer a customer a more personalized shopping experience. and out-of-stocks that continudecade. “And rather than having

ping experience. “For years, the largest data void has been in-store—what happens from the front door to the register,” says Vedrana Novosel, director of product management for RetailNext, an instore analytics company whose clients include Club Monaco and Sephora. “Fullpath analysis [next generation sensors] eliminates the blind spots of in-store shopping, allowing retailers the ability to further test, learn and improve upon their delivered shopping experiences.” Taking that effort to the next level is MAKING BRICKS LIKE CLICKS facial recognition technology. Melissa Back in the day, if a brick-and-mortar Mystore-E offers salespeople real-time online data they can apply to in-store merchandising. Shoes reports success working with retailer wanted to know how their cusFacenote to offer customers a more tomer behaved, they had to watch them targeted in-store experience in four and surreptitiously jot down notes. How of its stores. Consumers who enter the store can opt in via snapping did that consumer move through the store? Did he or she pick up a a selfie on a digital kiosk, or beforehand by tagging a selfie on social product, look at it and put it back on the shelf? How long did they media. When they enter the store, their image and customer profile linger? What in their basket did they pick up first? And some people pops up for the salesperson, who then makes targeted recommendathink AI is creepy. tions. “We wanted to find the analog way to do in-store what websites AI technology, in contrast, allows for a more accurate, continuous and have been doing all along, and that’s recognizing the customer as she behind-the-scenes tracking process. It allows retailers to gather data— comes in, then making suggestions based on her history,” says Beatriz like online dealers—to create a more efficient and entertaining shopally plague retailers, and smarter assorting will reduce markdowns and returns. Indeed, the incentives to incorporate AI technologies are strong. According to Retalon, a provider of predictive analytics and AI for retailers, when applied to inventory management AI can lower costs by as much as 25-40 percent. AI has also been shown to increase sales from 11-20 percent, while boosting turnover by up to 350 percent.

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Camacho, Melissa’s director of business development, noting it’s not unlike using cookies online to detect past consumer behavior. The key is to make such biometric programs work for the consumer, not just be a tech gimmick, so Melissa incentivized consumers with personalized discounts from $5 to $20 to try and increase engagement. Melissa Shoes increased foot traffic at its U.S. stores by 8 percent, while select stores saw a 55 percent increase in customer participation with a Boomeranglike video and recognition engagement program. “It really helped us close the sale in many cases,” Camacho says. Customers are accustomed to being tracked and targeted online, but stores must be careful not to overstep privacy bounds. Eduardo Rivara, CEO of Facenote, advises companies to be absolutely transparent on how they’re going to use such technology and what the benefit is for the consumer. “On Facenote, the customer chooses when to opt-in, by providing a selfie, and can opt-out of the experience in one click and you are forgotten.” He adds that younger generations are more used to taking advantage of facial recognition technologies— like unlocking a smartphone with face ID. Still, broad acceptance is still in the early stages. THE ON DEMAND GENERATION The ability to gather data is one thing, but what good is it if the lag time is too long or its dissemination is off the mark? Enter Mystore-E, which puts AI data directly in the hands of store managers and sales associates in real time. Its hand-held Tore-E system monitors and analyzes data from all digital channels, offering merchandising recommenda-

tions to stores so they can move best sellers into premium positions. For example, if a particular item is trending on the store’s Instagram page, staff is alerted so they can move such items to the front of the store. Tore-E also alerts the store if items are selling well together online, so sales associates can merchandise them next to each other. “Retailers have been in need to make their brick-and-mortar stores function more like websites; connecting touchpoints across channels by gathering, interpreting and translating omnichannel analytics into real-world solutions on the sales floor,” says Idan Sergi, co-founder and COO of Mystore-E, which won a Top Exhibitor Startup Award at Shop. org in 2018. “The idea is to bring online science into stores.” In fashion-driven industries like childrenswear, one can’t underestimate social media’s growing influence on consumer shopping habits. It’s real-time data that AI can capture. “Thanks to advances in AI, retailers have made big leaps from analyzing data in hindsight to tracking and responding to it in real time,” says Carol Spieckerman, author of Navigating Retail From Now to Next. “The potential to eliminate out of stocks and efficiently move inventory to meet demand is exciting,” she adds. “This is particularly true at a time when social media can impact demand unexpectedly and as retailers fill online orders from stores.” Other AI tools aiding retailers in their business include enhanced recommendation engines that can match apparel with appropriate accessories to complete a look. It’s similar to Amazon’s ‘Frequently Bought Together’ algorithm , which have reportedly increased the online giant’s revenue 7 percent. Bob Phibbs, a.k.a. The Retail Doctor, rec-

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ronments to create a unique experience ommends the award-winning AI platthat can’t be found online,” she says. form Increasingly, which helps retail“AI is going to allow retailers to do this ers increase basket revenue by selling without losing track of what shoppers bundles, collections and looks. “It helps are doing in both environments. That’s online merchants add on to orders across the near future of AI.” platforms from Google Shopping to Visual search is another growing AI applisocial media,” he says. “Users are avercation, not surprising as consumers conaging a 15 percent increase in orders— stantly covet what they see on Instagram, not easy to do!” on celebrities and friends. Searching via Shoptiques, an online marketplace images instead of words is key, especially that sells merchandise from approxifor the digital generation. mately 5,000 brick-and-mortar fashVisual search company Syte, for examion and childrenswear boutiques, wants ple, was co-founded by a woman who liked to help its clients see a broader picture a dress in a magazine and figured there as well. “Owners already have access to Slyce, another visual search had to be a way to search for it online. their store’s respective data via the softcompany, uses AI to make online Millions in venture capital funds later, ware and the real-time reporting app, product recognition a snap. Syte is now behind Farfetch’s awardand one of my plans this year is to offer winning “See it, Snap it, Shop it” feaclients a retail report based on all of our ture. The platform helps shoppers find where it’s being sold and, if users’ data with insights and industry recommendations,” says Maureen the item isn’t carried or is out of stock, the system makes “smart” Dempsey, vice president of marketing. recommendations for something similar. Syte’s clients also include Spieckerman, however, cautions about treating URLs and IRL’s Kohl’s, Pretty Little Things and BooHoo. (In Real Life) as one and the same. “It’s a mistake to take things too Syte is also taking its AI visual search to brick-and-mortar stores, far,” she says, adding that bifurcation and differentiation between testing out smart mirrors that offer alternative styles in store based on stores and online will become more important, not less. “The goal an uploaded image. “Visitors who engage with a ‘view similar’ on >30 isn’t to make stores more like websites, rather to leverage store envi-

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Top Inventory Features of POS Software

O N L I N E • PA R I S • N E W YO R K • S H A N G H A I

N AN AGE of instant e-commerce gratification, retailers are left with a very small margin for error. Consumers demand inventory visibility in real time across all channels for seamless shopping, which means having the right point of sale (POS) software is key. Springboard Retail’s omnichannel commerce platform features inventory management, unparalleled custom reporting, open application program interface (API) and portability across platforms and devices. The software is easy to use, fast and revered by customers for making their jobs easier, more efficient and profitable. If you’re looking to upgrade your POS system to ensure a seamless customer shopping experience, consider these user-friendly aspects offered by Springboard Retail. 1. CUSTOM FIELDS: To prepare for buys, track performance and strategize in the moment and for the future, retailers need to be able to report on data that’s applicable to their products. For instance, if you’re selling toys, “category” will be relevant but “size” will (most likely) not be. Springboard Retail enables users to customize fields, which allows you to publish and track data essential to your business and weed out anything irrelevant.

4. PARTIAL & FULL INVENTORY COUNTS: While the frequency of full inventory counts can vary greatly depending on size of your store, seasonality and staffing, performing one full physical inventory every three to six months (at least) is recommended. Quicker and more manageable partial cycle counts should be done weekly, or as soon as a discrepancy arises. Springboard Retail’s POS software allows you to freeze a store’s inventory to perform a physical inventory check of a location and provide a list of discrepancies to address post-count.

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3. REAL-TIME OMNICHANNEL FUNCTIONALITY & VISIBILITY: If you’re selling or storing inventory in multiple locations, be it an e-commerce site, warehouse or multiple storefronts, real-time inventory visibility is critical. Springboard Retail’s POS software is the point of truth for all inventory data. For example, as products are shipped, purchased or returned, the system automatically updates across all channels to eliminate the chance of overselling or other fulfillment errors. You see exactly how much is on hand, or on order, at any channel across your enterprise. The software additionally transfers inventory seamlessly between channels and fill orders from wherever you have the stock. This ensures a smooth customer experience, even if the customer bought the product online or from another location.

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2. CUSTOM REPORTS: Custom inventory reports give you the ability to sort, filter and group the data you collect with ease and accuracy. If you’re limited to “canned” reports, you’ll miss out on opportunities to see data in ways that are most relevant to your business. Springboard Retail’s POS software runs reports to compare performance for any given date or range—including real time! The program allows you to save reports to the cloud for easy access, share the URL with others and download the information as Excel or PDF files.

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200 collections | Fashion & Lifestyle

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05/11/2019 15:47

BE THE BUYER

A Little Piece of Heaven

Ash Vasanji, co-owner and buyer for Heaven in Carmel-ByThe-Sea, CA, sheds light on the boutique’s divine selection. 1. KNOW YOUR VALUE It’s all about quality and, more specifically, value. A $60 dress must have as much value per pricing as a $360 dress. The quality of materials and construction have always been incredibly important to me. Everything must have great hand. A well-cut pattern also allows for a longer wear—at least as long as growing children allow! 2. NIX THE NORMS Uniqueness is

another key characteristic I look for in brands to give customers that ‘wow factor.’ But I stay far away from of-the-moment trends. If I do buy into a current color or print trend, it’s because the aesthetic aligns with our specific styling. I

find myself drawn to brands that are similarly minded—those that value being different, not trendy. Molo, Mimisol and Imoga are just a few great examples. 3. STAY CURIOUS I primarily find

brands and products at trade shows. I try to attend a new show at least once a year, mostly in Europe. This helps me discover what’s not in the States yet. In general, my process is quite instinctual. It’s about looking for new ‘flavors’—something that doesn’t feel like what’s already out there. This could come from a new or established brand seen at a trade show or playing on my iPad at 4 a.m. I’m always looking for

what’s fresh and exciting to keep my merchandising evolving and still stay true to Heaven’s DNA. 4. MAKE (SMART) FRIENDS Talk

to people in the know, get their opinions, even pay for consulting—if you can. This can save you from a ton of costly mistakes! Finding credible people to ask is key. Taking the time to listen to established, knowledgeable professionals can make all the difference in your future. 5. THE BEST OF TIMES While the

business has its share of challenges, it’s still a wonderful time to be a buyer in children’s fashion. I’m amazed by the advancements

TOP SELLERS Boys’ Apparel Molo Girls’ Apparel Imoga Swimwear Molo Baby Shower Gifts Little Giraffe Layette Posh Peanut Shoes Naturino New Brand Guugguu

in new fabrics and materials, as well as the emergence of more creative designers! As quality continues to improve, the gap between European and U.S. brands has become much closer. Honestly, there’s more choice for childrenswear buyers now than ever before!

S PONS ORE D

CONT ENT

Meet these shining stars at February’s markets.

Exhibitor Spotlight

APPAMAN Outfitting kids for two decades, contemporary New York-based brand Appaman combines unparalleled attention to detail with quality materials to make customers feel cool, comfortable and confident. Appaman’s iconic outerwear is back for Fall ’20 in metallics, tie-dyes and camo, in addition to its sportswear collection of slouchy silhouettes with a buttery soft hand. And for holidays, don’t miss its elegant girls’ dresses and dapper boys’ suiting!

ANGEL DEAR From classic blankies to fine apparel, Angel Dear continues to bring sweet, modern and whimsical designs to its new collection! Expect classic corduroy, velour and all things ’70s and ’80s to make an appearance for Fall ’20. @angeldearinc Children’s Club Booth #1306 NY Now Booth #7131

@appaman Children’s Club Booth #1414

kim@angeldear.com

sales@appaman.com

DAINTY GIRL ACCESSORIES Dainty Girl Accessories offers fun, fabulous fashion accessories and clothing for princesses and fashionistas ages 2 to 12. The new collection will include trendy items like tutus, oversized sunglasses and glittery backpacks.

LOVE BUBBY Built on the motto “you are never too young to make a statement,” Love Bubby is a gender neutral line of statement T-shirts and bodysuits. Designed with a pop culture spin, each style is made from super soft premium fabric and offers new coordinating styles for babies, kids and women each season.

@daintygirl_accessories Children’s Club Booth #1540 sales@daintygirlaccessories.com

@lovebubby Children’s Club Booth #1621 NY Now Booth #7008 wholesale@shoplovebubby.com

DESIGNER CHAT

The Perfect Mix Yuki Scott, co-founder and creative director of Owa Yurika, on blending Japanese simplicity with chic European design influences. inspired unisex pieces. The print for this designing,” Scott adds. DESPITE THE NEARLY season was inspired by endangered species, Bolstered by such well6,000 miles between them, and in it there are Japanese-style illustrations balanced talent, Owa Yurika Yuki Scott and her mother of animals doing quintessentially Japanese quickly gained traction internaYuriko Oshima have never activities. It’s super fun! tionally. Noteworthy accounts felt closer. Oshima lives in include Barneys New York, Tokyo, where Scott was born Where do you look for design inspiration? Harvey Nicols in London, Kids and raised, while her daughter I take in everything I see in my daily life as 21 stores in Singapore and has settled with her family in inspiration. Sometimes, I get ideas just from Hong Kong, as well as Isetan London. However, together talking to my daughter and her friends or going in Tokyo. By the end of this at the helm of their luxury away on a family holiday. I also enjoy talking to year, Scott aims to double the children’s label Owa Yurika my friends and my daughter’s friends’ mothbrand’s wholesale distribution. since 2016, the duo is able to ers to get the parents’ perspective. It’s like an “We’re going to be very careful seamlessly offer a unique fusion impromptu focus group! to work with only the right of London’s cutting-edge style stores,” Scott says, adding that with the meticulous attention to What does a typical day for you involve? I the brand will also be updating detail that comes from Japanese Yuki Scott wake up early to meditate before I start getting its e-commerce site to better manufacturing. breakfast ready, wake up my daughter, take her facilitate its direct-to-consumer traffic. In the “We aim to offer high-quality, timeless to school and then go to work. There’s always meantime, it continues to be a labor of love for and sophisticated pieces that are influenced lots of meetings, and I’ll try to squeeze in a Scott. “While it’s challenging to oversee both from Japanese design characteristics such as yoga or ballet session to help me keep at peace. the creative and business side, I’m so grateful asymmetry, origami-like layering, textured Soon, it’ll be time to pick up my daughter in the for this opportunity,” Scott says. “Designing mixed material usage and the overall Japanese afternoon, and I’ll take her to extracurricular a children’s brand is a learning process that streetwear aesthetic,” Scott says, noting the line leaves me feeling rewarded every (available in sizes 3-14) isn’t “overly feminine” day.” —Emily Beckman with several gender neutral options. “We want the children who wear the clothes to feel Who is Owa Yurika’s core cusempowered in expressing their own styles in tomer? Cool, international and stylea more fluid way.” conscious parents and grandparents Scott originally studied economics at Tokyo who care about sustainability, quality University and philosophy at Yale before and uniqueness in design and are becoming an investment banker in New York interested in Japanese culture. With and London, where her career then shifted to that, we definitely are on the higher fashion. She served as an editor and contributor end, with tops and dresses retailing to Harper’s Bazaar and held managerial posifor $50-$90 while coats are sold for tions at luxury lifestyle and fashion companies, around $160. The value is exceptional including Celux, LVMH and ISSA London. though as we pay close attention to “My interest in fashion definitely comes from practicality and longevity, exclusively my mother who has always favored avant-garde using high-quality natural materials style, making her the one to stand out during that are kind to the environment. the school run,” Scott says. Her mother has written best-selling books on color theories What’s new for Fall ’20? Our beauin Japan and is passionate about art. “She has tiful dresses inspired by origami and an amazing eye for color and styling, as well obi of a kimono, a kimono jacket and as the ability to pay attention to details and Japanese streetwear influences Owa Yurika’s aesthetic. a number of Japanese streetwearpracticality, so her input is crucial when we are

E A R N S H AW S . C O M

activities. I’ll focus on her until her bedtime and usually wind down later by catching up on emails and reading. Whenever possible, I like going to bed early! What’s the most challenging aspect of your job? Owa Yurika has us constantly dealing with three seasons at a time: the one in stores, the one being manufactured and sold to buyers and the one that’s being designed for the next season. It’s a never-ending rollercoaster, which keeps us very busy. Who are some of your favorite designers? I love Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo (Comme des Garçons) and Chitose Abe (Sacai) for having strong philosophies/identities. They’re always thinking outside the box and coming up with highly innovative designs. What do you love most about being a designer? Being able to take an idea or conversation and turn it into a tangible piece for other parents to share with their children. It’s

Owa Yurika designs can be easily dressed up or down.

ARE FAMILY

FALL FASHION BRINGS GENERATIONS CLOSER THROUGH COORDINATING COLORS, PRINTS & MATERIALS.

PHOTOGRAPHY

BY ZOE ADLERSBERG

STYLING

BY MARIAH WALKER

From left to right: Indy wears Lee hoodie; Navy wears On My Mind top under Agnes B. jacket; Sawyer wears Dl 1961 black denim jacket; Asher wears Appaman pullover. PAG E 1 9

From left to right: Stephanie wears Tia Cibani top with Levi’s jeans; Sawyer wears Levi’s jacket and Lee pants; Asher wears Appaman shirt and jeans; Navy wears Tommy Hilfiger shirt, Losan Denim jacket and Joe’s Jeans pants; Uri wears Autumn Cashmere top with Mavi Jeans jacket and jeans; Boheme wears Losan Denim jacket and jeans; Indy wears Lee jacket with Joe’s Jeans top and Levi’s pants. 20

Uri wears Uri Minkoff jacket; Boheme wears Kidding Around one-piece. Opposite page: Asher wears Oeuf hat and jacket with Appaman camo shirt; Sawyer wears Oeuf hat and overalls.

Clockwise: Indy wears Puma hoodie, Lee pants and Twisted X shoes; Sawyer wears DL1961 pants, Lamborghini top and Twisted X shoes; Navy wears Andy & Evan sweater, Appaman pants and Twisted X shoes. Opposite page: Indy wears Puma hoodie; Navy wears Karl Lagerfeld sweater over Appaman button-down.

Clockwise: Stephanie wears Greige top with Rebecca Minkoff coat; Indy wears Weatherproof Vintage jacket; Asher wears Me & Henry plaid shirt; Sawyer wears Oeuf turtleneck and Leviâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pants; Navy wears DL1961 jacket. Opposite page: Indy wears Puma wears sweatshirt with Elegant Baby blanket over shoulder; Boheme wears Greige overalls and Huxbaby cardigan. Photography by Zoe Adlersberg/ See Management; styling by Mariah Walker/Art Department NYC; hair by Cecilia Romero using TARA; makeup by Rebecca Alexander/See Management using Glossier; styling assistance by Khalila White.

W H A T ’S S E L L I N G

Stoopher & Boots New York, NY

base is locals—my neighbors—but it has grown to also include customtephanie Goldstein might not have kids of her own, but she’s ers who may be driving over the bridge from New Jersey to pay us a visit. very much a mother hen to the neighborhood kids who swarm into her New York boutique, Stoopher & Boots (the childhood What are your best-selling brands? In boys’, comfort is key, with nicknames for Stephanie and her sister Elizabeth). Over the past 10 years, Flow Society a year-round staple. Boys love the shorts’ bold prints kids have been wheeled into the Upper West Side boutique in strollers, and the sports gear. Vintage Havana is emerging as a go-to, especially later strolling alongside their moms and eventually popping in as tweens the super-soft fleece. For girls 2 to 8, Sparkle by Stoopher, hands during lunch recess to hang out, browse and play with the store’s two down, is our bestseller, and King Charles Spaniels. It’s exglitter and tulle sell across actly how Goldstein envisioned the board. For special occathings when she was a little girl sion, we sell everything from dreaming of owning her own classic to bandage dresses, childrenswear boutique. and we love Un Deux Trois “My customers aren’t just dresses for fit and style. We customers, they’re my neighbors also do great with Stella and friends,” Goldstein says. McCartney, Zoë Ltd and “I’ll grab coffee next to one of Imoga. For the older girls, my teen customers at the local we sell tons of cropped, disbodega and joke about how tressed, lightning bolts, stars we remember her stopping and neon. Here, we can’t go by Stoopher back in her juice wrong with Vintage Havana, box days.” T2Love and Aviator Nation. Goldstein, who started out in We’re also a big stop for her career advising Fortune 500 baby gifts/layette, and Petit companies on growth strategies, Bateau is a tried-and-true has doubled the store’s size great buy. after taking over an adjacent storefront two years ago. The Stooper & Boots entices Upper West Side patrons with What about beyond ap1,300-square-foot space features a frequently updated window display of top trends. parel? For toys, anything a 75/25 percent mix of girls’ to squishy! Fashion Angels, boys’ clothing. The selection Iscream and Kids Made Modern never fail to disappoint. In accesspans knick-knacks you can pick up for a dollar to coats and dresses sories, you won’t see a child without Bari Lynn headband or clips, so north of $200. There’s even a designated “Dad Chair” for fathers to we’re always well stocked. We sell a bit of beauty, like nail polish sets, chill out while their kids browse. A highlight is Goldstein’s own line, but not a big commitment. Sparkle by Stoopher, which she also wholesales. It’s an outgrowth of the tie-dye T-shirts she made in middle school and serves as another Anything notable added to the mix recently? We started carrying creative outlet. “Stoopher is my baby and an extension of me,” Goldstein a lot more junior sizes last year. We found that middle school girls says. “It’s like I retired, and this is my passion that I finally get to live want to wear junior brands, even if that means sizing up. Oversized every single day.” hoodies and sweatpants, cropped tees and loose leggings mean fashStoopher & Boots’ proximity to several schools provides steady traffic ion flexibility. And, in addition to our Sparkle line, we are launching as well as helps build community. Goldstein is a frequent contributor Tweenstyle by Stoopher, so we can continue to offer emerging trends to school fundraisers and local events. “People come to Stoopher for to our aging customer base. our personalized service,” Goldstein says. “If it felt solely transactional, they’d just go online. Kids love to stop in, hang out or let us know how How do you drive traffic to your store? My relationships with that dress worked out at the bat mitzvah they attended.” —Lauren Parker customers is the most impactful way to drive traffic, but we also send curated suggestions via text to our growing customer base daily. We’ve How’s business? Good, luckily. Stoopher & Boots has a very loyal folrecently brought on a digital and social media strategist. We’ve always lowing both on the wholesale and retail front. Our primary customer

E A R N S H AW S .C O M

relied heavily on Instagram to help build our customer base and call attention to new styles the second they come into the store. Is there a specific season or occasion that spikes sales? In the summer, camp gear and camp care packages are big business, and the big word in camp is custom. We personalize everything, from shirts to skateboards, with packages tricked out with candy. Camp visiting day generates nearly the same buzz as the holidays do. But summer isn’t just about camp. The demand for summer gear keeps going after the kids arrive at camp. How has your business changed over the past decade? The store has evolved alongside the growing relationships with our neighborhood clients. At first, I carried lots of handmade items—adults’ and children’s clothing, plus toys and accessories—because I thought they represented the greatest unmet need in the market. However, it didn’t take long to see that children’s clothing was the most popular category, and I decided to focus on it. Where do you see Stoopher & Boots in five years? I see our journey as my customers’ journey, and I’m always thinking how to grow with them. Stoopher helped outfit their grade school graduation, and now it’s time to work with them on styles for prom. I feel like a mom to these kids, especially when they come in at lunchtime without their parents. It’s like

Owner Stephanie Goldstein views customer service as an opportunity to make new friends.

S PECI A L R E P OR T

INTRODUCING

EARNSHAW’S CREATIVE

continued from page 11 the product page have a conversion rate over 100 percent higher, and the average order value is 12 percent higher than those who do not,” says Andrew Thomson, Syte’s director of ecommerce.

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DROWNING IN DATA? While data can be infinitely helpful to retailers, it can also be daunting, especially for smaller businesses that don’t have full departments to decipher and act on all the reams of (often) real-time information. “So much data about our customers and their buying behaviors comes into our hands daily, but sometimes it’s hard to organize the data and know what to do with it,” admits Liz Connor, owner of Pitter Patter in Louisville, CO. At its simplest level, however, data can help retailers stay focused. “When you’re in a showroom and see all the shiny, new pretty things, it’s easy to forget what works and doesn’t in your shop,” Connor says. “The sensory overload and rose-tinted outlook are real! But having the vendor report cards handy helps me stay the course.” Connor cites a recent example where data helped guide a buying decision. “We had an impression that a higher-priced line was just too high for us, but before I gave up on it we included it in our normal reporting routine before market and were surprised that the line had one of the strongest sell-through at almost full margin,” she says. “We upped our ordering with that brand for this spring, which was a risk I never would’ve taken without the data to back it up.” Of course, not every piece of data is guaranteed gold. Site merchandisers often struggle to see the difference between data and behavior. While data doesn’t lie, analyzing consumer behavior for retail buying is a separate expertise. “The data is a starting point and a framework of what the buy should look like, but we don’t work in a vacuum,” says Bridget Stickline, owner of Wee Chic in Maryland. “We buy against the indications of past data if the product is –BRIDGET STICKLINE, stronger than previous seaOWNER OF WEE CHIC sons or a silhouette trend dictates moving dollars from one class to another. There are a lot of factors that could dictate a shift, but as long as we are staying in our open-to-buy overall, those shifts tend to pay off.” At the end of the day, data output is only as good as the data put in. “We have systems set up to track opportunities, but the reporting we churn out is only as good as the data we are feeding into the POS system,” confirms Connor. She is nonetheless pleased with what Pitter Patter has gathered thus far and is planning to expand business in the departments that data has proven out as strong growth areas. “If it weren’t for the three years of data we’ve collected, we wouldn’t even know in which direction to move,” Connor says. “Now that we have opportunities

The data is a starting point and a framework of what the buy should look like, but we don’t work in a vacuum.

BOOTH 1320

sales@babynoomie.com