Earnshaws | April/May 2017

U N D E R S T A N D I N G T H E B A B Y M A R K E T • F U R - F LY I N G F A S H I O N S

VOLUME 101 NUMBER 4

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Q & A W I T H G O L D B U G C E O K AT H E R I N E G O L D

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A PRIL /M A Y 2017 CONTENTS

Noelle Heffernan Publisher

F EAT URES 14 Mission Control Katherine Gold, CEO of Goldbug, on launching two new brands to simplify parents’ lives.

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22 Gentle Men As gender roles turn gray, black-and-white clothing remains timeless.

Kristin Young Editor-in-Chief Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Emily Beckman Associate Editor Mariah Walker Contributing Fashion Editor ADVERTISING Caroline Diaco Group Publisher Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager

DEPART MEN TS 6 Editor’s Note 8 Small Talk 10 Hot-Button Issue 18 Trend Watch

PRODUCTION Katie Belloff Associate Art Director Production Manager Mike Hoff Webmaster Allison Kastner Operations Manager

32 Haute Topics

Bruce Sprague Circulation Director

34 Up Close

CONTACT INFO

38 Licensing News 40 What’s Selling

This page: on him: Odd Natives jacket, model’s own shirt and pants; on baby: Little Giraffe blanket, Baby Deer boots. Male model: Axel S./Major Model Mgmt.

On cover: on him: Odd Natives coat, model’s own shirt and pants; on baby: Miles Baby jumpsuit, Oeuf hat, Happy Socks socks. Male model: Aly N./Red Model Mgmt.

Photography by Zoe Adlersberg; styling by Mariah Walker/Art Department NY; grooming by Juliette Perreux/ Bryan Bantry Agency; styling assistant Madison Donaldson.

Sales/Editorial Offices 135 West 20th Street Suite 402 New York, NY 10011 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 advertising@9threads.com editorialrequests@ 9threads.com Circulation Office 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9threads.com CORPORATE 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 Xen Zapis, Chairman Lee Zapis, President Rich Bongorno, CFO Debbie Grim, Controller

EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 135 West 20th Street, Suite 402 New York, NY 10011. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender.

Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

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Sorry, were you reading that? bonbebe.com

EDITOR’S NOTE

The Human Touch A

S ALL LITTLE TIKES know, growth is sometimes painful. Like those whom we cater to, the childrenswear industry is also going through a period of transformation—and it hasn’t been easy. The survival of 20th Century retail giants like Sears and Kmart are in doubt. JC Penney is threatening to close another 138 stores, and Amazon is on pace to control half of the e-commerce market by 2021, according to investment and asset management firm Needham. To put that in perspective, Walmart’s share of total online purchases is only 5 percent, CNBC notes.

There’s little question retail is going through an evolution, but just what it will become is the million dollar question.

Recently, there has been much talk about the physical store of the future that speculates on everything from robots and facial-recognition technology to 3-D printing stations and drones—a blend of the digital age and physical, if you will.

Yet alongside store closures and doom-and-gloom headlines, there are pockets of hope. One bright spot is the small independent specialty boutique—the only place like it, the pillar of the community, a place where everybody knows your name. As we discovered in our reporting, people in neighborhoods like Brooklyn, N.Y. and Venice, Calif., flock to mom-and-pops like Wild Was Mama and Burro’s, respectively, for their gift-giving purchases (flip to page 10 to see how retailers and manu-

facturers are making the most of the vibrant baby clothing and product category). Additionally, Bain & Co. offers some hope for brick-and-mortar: Although 70 percent of high-end purchases are driven by online activity, some 75 percent of sales will still occur in stores by 2025. As Marc Simhon, new president of Bon Bébé relays in our Up Close (page 34), “The [retail] landscape looks dreary in a lot of different sectors, but there are still enough doors to do business out there.” Like Simhon, I’m an optimist. As retail morphs into the stores of the future, remember whom they serve: us, human beings.

And we will always want a positive and personal shopping adventure. So whether that means pods with gender-neutral interchangeable pieces or virtual fitting stations, people will always want to see, feel and touch the clothing and products that touch their babies. And if they can smell, hear and taste something? Even better. As you explore this issue dedicated to the infant and toddler market, pause to appreciate physical stores and their imminent change. When it comes down to it, we all have to grow.

KRISTIN YOUNG k ri s ti n .yo u n g @ 9 t h r e a d s . co m

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SMALL TALK

GIF TING

101 THE MILLENNIAL MOM is a digital guru who spends an immense amount of time online. “Sure some of this is social, but it’s mostly about efficiency,” says Jennifer McAllister-Nevins, founder and co-CEO of new keepsake storage brand Savor. “In an era of uber-information, she’s looking for things to cut through the noise.”Consequently, if your product isn’t giving her a “like” or “follow” for its eco-friendly accolades or eye-catching aesthetic, consider it less likely to move off the shelves.

“With technology at their fingertips, the majority of Millennial moms are very open and transparent with each other,” says Laura Douglas, founder of baby apparel brand The Milkman. “They love to connect and express themselves.” Nixing the classic parenting selfhelp novels, moms today prefer turning to each other or online bloggers, such as Stroller in the City, A Cup of Jo or Mini Mode, as the trendsetters for fashion and advice. And, with that comes constant exposure to projects of creative composition and dainty details.

Let’s face it—inorganic, unadorned burp cloths just aren’t going to cut it these days.

“Unusual gifts from Etsy of Uncommon Goods are trending because they feel memorable, well-made and they have a story,” McAllister-Nevins says. So, whether it be your customer’s next baby shower, sprinkle or gender-reveal party, here are three suggestions to make sure your inventory is hitting the mark for today’s Millennial mom.

—Emily Beckman

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Retro Rules “Anything with a throwback vibe immediately grabs our attention,” says The Milkman’s Douglas, a Millennial mom herself. “Our one-pieces, packaged in reusable glass milk bottles, are sure to remind people of simpler times when the milkman would deliver milk to your doorstep. Our goal is to recreate that same friendly approach by delivering unique gifts that are fun, fresh and original.” Not to mention, adorable packaging is always perfect for snagging a great Instagram photo.

Savor

The Milkman

T WO

Simple Solutions “People want fewer items but ones that feel special, thoughtful and welldesigned,” offers Savor’s McAllister-Nevins, pointing out her chic 3-D alternative to a baby book journal or cardboard storage box.

The Library by Savor fits perfectly into the Millennial trend of minimalism and prioritizing design. “In this digital era, our keepsakes tell our stories,” affirms McAllister-Nevins.

“They deserve more than the plastic bin.”

THREE

Story Time “Millennial moms not only care about a product’s design and safety, they are becoming increasingly interested in the story behind the product,” says Austin Miller, president of Kahiniwalla, Pebble’s U.S. distributor.

“They care about the design process, the artisans who craft it and the impact that their purchase makes.” Fair-trade and handmade baby product company Pebble is perfect for helping independent retailers meet this demand as it brings positive social impact to rural communities throughout Bangladesh.

Pebble

HOT-BUTTON ISSUE

Feltman Brothers

Little Treasures IN AN UNCERTAIN RETAIL CLIMATE, THE BABY MARKET REMAINS VIBRANT.

BY KRISTIN YOUNG

T

HERE ARE TWO certainties in life (aside from death and taxes, that is): People will continue to procreate and friends and family will celebrate the miracle of birth. So while much of the childrenswear industry is suffering from increased competition from online entities like Amazon chipping away profits and a severe retail correction forcing brick-and-mortar closures across the country, many brands and retailers are reporting that sales of gifts, clothing and other products for babies are healthy and strong.

(For purposes of clarification, we are referring to the baby category as products and clothing for newborns as birth-to-two-months old, infants as two-months to two-years, and toddlers as 18-months to age three.)

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“It’s on fire,” confirms Ben Friedman, president of the 100-year-old all-things-baby company Feltman Brothers based in New York City, when asked whether his newborn to toddler business has been robust.

He emphatically adds, “100 percent!” Feltman’s layettes, take-mehome gowns, day gowns, sweater sets and dresses that feature detailed hand-smocking, hand-embroidery in high-quality Pima cotton give the collections an heirloom quality which is appealing to new moms.

An average sale at retail, says Friedman, is $50 and even more if you’re a grandparent. The sweet spot for gift items is $60. Friedman says Feltman is sticking with traditional styles—not adult take-downs.

“We offer clothing to make babies look like babies,” he says. “And >12

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anytime you’re at a baby shower, and you’re We don’t want to take their business.” While out there keeping up with the Joneses, the the market is there for traditional baby blues higher-end lines benefit.” and pinks, the Montreal-based brand finds IN Millennial moms are also doing quite a lot success with fashion-forward mini-me of shopping for their babies. Canadian brand silhouettes, patterns and mix-and-match Deux par Deux launched its e-commerce sets. The design team is inspired by adult operation two years ago and found new moms fashion, Vogue magazine, street style and make bulk purchases for ages 3-months to cool graphics, offers Elmaleh. “We just try to 9-months, according to owner and vice presiadd a little childish twist to it,” he says. “We f r o m 2 011 t o 2 016 dent Zacharie Elmaleh. “There are two types really try to bring fashion to the kid world.” of consumers,” he says. “There’s the Carter’s Wendy Carter, owner of Yikes Twins, also and mass market customer. Then there’s the walks the balance bar between e-commerce, more fashionable customer who will invest promoting her brand on Instagram and selling a little bit more money, and this customer to specialty boutiques. The brand specializes shops the Internet and specialty boutiques.” in baby towels and slippers that sell between million in revenue Elmaleh says that it’s precarious walking $39 and $48 and Carter limits what she sells S O U R C E : I B I S WO R L D the tightrope between selling directly to the online. “I’m a big believer in supporting my customer—giving them easy returns and a stores and I will not undercut the stores, by great experience—and satisfying the brand’s 300 specialty boutiques selling [the full collection] online,” she says, adding, “I worry for them, in the U.S. and Canada. “We want to help our boutiques,” he says. “We and I want to make supporting them a big deal.” won’t go on sale before them. We’ll go on sale two weeks after them.

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better educated on what’s available in the baby is 100-percent natural and was pleased by the market, says Juni Walsh, co-owner of Vintage demand. “It’s a very competitive field,” says Baby by Margery Ellen based in Marin County, Roya Delshad, vice president of the company, Calif. “It’s hard to find cute baby clothes that are noting her Millennial daughter buys only AND IN not Target or Carter’s,” she says. “People want organic, natural and chemical-free goods to have a special outfit for photos and people for her two grandchildren. “We are a new will spend for that baby.” Vintage Baby produces company, and we just had our first show, and wrap sets, gowns, hats, dresses and rompers in we got a good response.”

Peru Pima cotton ranging in price from $5 to $22 Equally appealing to parents these days is retail. The company’s embroidered footies, $21, locally-sourced goods and brands with a story are the number-one bestseller. Walsh says the to tell. And don’t underestimate the appeal average purchase for a baby shower gift in her of the local mom-and-pop children’s store.

BILLION region has shot up between $100 and $150. No Tracy Michele Bullock, executive manager of WITH AN AVERAGE PRICE OF one wants to come across as the cheapskate at Wild Was Mama in Brooklyn, N.Y., reports that a party in Silicon Valley, she explains. “They’ll the baby business has been steady. The store buy several items,” says Walsh. “They’ll buy specializes in heirloom items, merino wool and toy and a hat—make it a nice.” items in the colder month, and sells organic These days, parents are willing to shell out on a small scale. “Many of our customers know more money for brands that have baby-healthy attributes like chemithat items are made locally,” she says, noting that’s an attribute that her cal- and dye-free. Baby Roro, a four-month-old brand that held its first customers find important. “And, if it’s not local, then we find brands trade show at Children’s Club in February, specializes in clothing that in the U.S. or in Europe,” she adds. “We don’t take on a brand casually.

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TO

Q&A Mission Control Katherine Gold, CEO of Goldbug, shares details on two new proprietary brands to simplify parents’ lives—continuing the company ’s mission for nearly 50 years.

BY KRISTIN YOUNG

KATHERINE GOLD IS a consummate businesswoman. Sure, you can rattle off a string of fancy titles the Colorado native has accumulated over the years—everything from her current position as CEO, owner and president of the 48-year-old business her father, William Gold II, founded years ago to being a past chair of the Juvenile Products Manufacturers Association (JPMA) and a buyer at both Macy’s and the now-defunct I. Magnin.

But it’s Gold’s business accomplishments that speak louder than any of her aforementioned titles. Since being named CEO in 2012, Gold has overseen sales growth, new launches, expanded categories and has developed new technologies for the brand.

Gold, however, is not riding on her past achievements. The company is introducing two new brands this year. EverUp, a new line of socks with a patented technology silicone application that’s designed to keep knit socks on the tootsies of newborns and up to 24 months, recently hit the shelves. And On-the-Go, a line of travel accessories (including front carriers, child harnesses with leashes, shopping cart

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and high-chair covers, portable soothers, diaper change kits and nursing covers) makes its debut in stores on May 1.

EverUp socks, available in four and six packs ($12 to $14 MSRP), feature stripes, athletic and airplane designs in neutrals and blues for boys while girls’ styles have a pastel color palette with hearts, rabbits and strawberry motifs. Beyond the fashion appeal, Gold says the socks answer a real need of parents. Specifically, that they remain on thanks to a flexible crisscross silicone band woven into the socks. “It seems like a simple thing, but keeping socks on infants’ feet really can be an annoyance for parents,” Gold says. “All the in-and-out of >33

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5/1/17 3:55 PM

Q&A through the day just a little bit easier while at the same time making a fashion statement.”

The design philosophy is also a source of great pride as these product segments are fraught with liabilities and require strict safety compliance standards. It’s not easy. It’s also why the company has been around for almost five decades. Goldbug has built a level of trust with its retail partners and consumers. In fact, Gold holds the belief that brand relationships coupled with the agility to innovate and turn on a dime are critical to succeeding in today’s increasingly competitive environment. “Today’s consumer is very tech-friendly and knowledgeable; they can compare and contrast, and they understand value,” she says. “But what they care about is not that different from how parents have always been—issues like safety.”

With decades-long manufacturing under its belt licensing goods for such industry heavyweights as Carter’s, OshKosh B’gosh, Eddie Bauer, Levi’s and Disney as well as Walmart, Macy’s and Babies “R” Us, Gold says a company focus now is beefing up its own branded portfolio to fill perceived gaps in the market.

That doesn’t mean that maintaining licensing agreements is any less important. Gold says the company always puts the partner first and prides itself on the ability to step outside of itself and immerse itself in a brand in order to produce products that are spot-on.

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car seats, strollers, carriers, high-chairs, cribs, etc. Socks have so many opportunities to come off and disappear. So we believe EverUp fills a need.” Gold adds that the company has high expectations for the brand.

“From all the feedback we’ve received over nearly 50 years of making infant and children’s socks, we think EverUp will be a big hit,” she says.

The same easy practicality is the premise of Goldbug’s On-the-Go line, which ranges from $10 to $69 MSRP. Crucial details will appeal to new moms such as car seats featuring elaborate head supports, car pads to make clean-up a breeze and inserts on front carriers that can be removed as the baby grows. “It’s really our first foray into our own branded travel products and we are looking forward to putting some of our designs on store shelves with the Goldbug logo on them,” Gold offers, adding, “We’ve partnered with some terrific retailers who really believe in what we are doing, and we’re excited to see the reaction of consumers.”

Overall, Gold says the company’s design mantra is fashion, form and function. Whether it’s shoes, socks, jewelry items or travel accessories (the company holds more than 20 patents) every Goldbug product must deliver on that criteria. “More so than any other category, children’s accessories can’t fall short in any one of these areas,” Gold notes. “Parents and children are busy, and we need to deliver products that recognize this reality and deliver items that make getting

Q&A It appears to be working. Despite what is a very challenging retail environment, Gold reports the company had a “very good year” in 2016, both from a revenue standpoint and in terms of deploying new technologies and systems that will make it even more competitive and efficient in terms of sourcing, pricing and fulfilment. “We’re very pleased with where we sit going into 2017,” she says. “We’re going to be very active and looking forward to growing some new areas for the company.” b b b Goldbug is launching two new brands amid an overall climate of great consolidation at retail. What’s your take on the rash of store closings and how it might impact Goldbug?

We are fortunate to have longstanding relationship with our retailers, and we are not contending with significant challenges. That said, the evolution and importance of e-commerce is a definite focus for us so as to support our retail partners in this changing landscape. But it still comes down to providing interesting designs and delivering quality products at a competitive price point. Add to that the need to provide outstanding customer service. The consumer has much more information available to them than they did 10 years ago, and with the ability of customers to write reviews and provide instant feedback—good

or bad—retailers have to be much more sensitive and responsive to their customers which, in turn, means we have to be much more sensitive and responsive to our retail customers.

What do you look for in a retail partnership?

Generally, we look for partners that share our core values: integrity, commitment to quality and commitment to the customer. Beyond that, we want to work with partners that want to lead. We place an emphasis on innovation and design. While we want to work with partners who understand the importance of getting the basics right. We also want them to be at the forefront in terms of the types of products they offer their customers. Fortunately, we’ve been able to build relationships with a number of great, like-minded retailers.

Any pressures Goldbug is facing on the wholesale front?

We are constantly facing pressure on pricing yet we are expected to deliver quality—both in terms of design and construction—to our customers. Fortunately, this works to our advantage as we have always been focused on design and are broadly recognized for what we bring to the table in that regard. After nearly 50 years in this business, we have established relationships and practices that keep us more than just competitive on price and quality control.

CHAT ROOM And it’s not just retailers you have to please. Parent and—even tougher—kids, too. What are the attributes that make a Goldbug product kid-friendly?

Kids can be attracted to any number of things. They appreciate products that help them express themselves and offer a level of fun and interaction. It’s funny, there’s a lot of research out there that shows that children become brandconscious much earlier than we first thought. So, in some regard, brand matters. But ultimately, it has to be fashionable and it has to be functional. If a product is both, kids will not just gravitate toward it, they will make it part of their everyday choices. If it’s missing either, they’ll move past it. The key is to understand what they’ll find fashionable. And that is why I think we’ve got the best team going.

They always seem to know what will resonate.

From your perspective, it helps having grown up in the business, no?

It does. There’s a lot of family pride in what my father had built. I’ve always been attracted to creativity and innovation that children’s accessories create. We can do things in accessories that bring together the best aspects of form,

Corporate Mark Zelen 212-216-6125 1385 Broadway, Suite 1800 New York, NY 10018

Caribbean/ Latin America/ South Florida Rolando & Ana Hidalgo 305-599-8717

International Nathan A. Mamiye 212-216-6008

Who is your favorite historical character? I’ve always been drawn to those who’ve overcome barriers to become “the first.” If you happened to read or see the movie Hidden Figures, that’s a great story of some women who achieved pretty incredible firsts.

What’s on your nightstand? With books, there’s no rhyme or reason. I enjoy thrillers and fiction, but I also spend a lot of time in the non-fiction section—books on leadership and market trends. With respect to periodicals, I start with the trades, which means I start with Earnshaw’s!

What would people be surprised to know about you? That I am

an accomplished downhill skier. I started when I was young and still ski as much as I can. It’s one of the great things about living and working in Colorado. There’s not much terrain in the state I can’t or haven’t handled. It’s a passion of mine.

In what way has the industry changed most? The world has gotten smaller. Back when I first joined the company it was a domestic marketplace centered in New York.

Now our design staff travels the world to understand trends and the marketplace.

What is your favorite childhood memory? Spending extended weekends skiing with my family.

Mid Atlantic

North East

Mark Wolbransky 215-364-7906

Bill and Sandie Ellsworth 781-326-3999

Midwest

Texas/South West

Richard Finkelstein & Al Zaiff 847-607-8543

Annette Cardona-Stein 214-637-4446

West Coast Teresa Stephen 213-623-8155

Western Canada Jeff Swartz 604-681-1719

TREND WATCH

MIni Molly coat

Fur Fusion WITH FUR JACKETS being a staple item in girlswear for years, designers are always looking to reinvent the cozy-chic craze. There’s been a slow build of the multicolor fur jackets for children, with styles spanning all-over rainbow splotches to single-hued gradients. Not to mention all the matching furry accessories popping up that nod to the same multi-hued hype. “The multicolored fur jacket is something we have been tracking since 2015 when brands such as Suoak, Catimini, Billiblush and Bengh Per Principesse started to explore this idea,” says Erin Rechner, senior kidswear editor at WGSN, adding that she anticipates brands to continue experimenting with fur applications outside of solids. According to Rechner, look out for new appliqué techniques stemming from the FW ’18/19 season amongst brands like Yves Salomon and Raspberry Plum. —Emily Beckman

Little Mass jacket

Mummymoon

Bows Arts headband

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MaeLi Rose coat

Schnarbles coat

Les Tout Petits capelet

Imoga purse

Wild & Gorgeous long coat

Omamimini top

Mayoral vest

Magpie coat

Manière pom-pom hat

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TREND WATCH Lucky Jade sweater

Gray Area IN LIGHT OF today’s increasingly gender-neutral climate, retailers are easing off of the classic pink-and-blue buys for baby to fill the racks with more all-inclusive options. However, our research shows that instead of guessing the customers’ favorite gender-neutral hue, buyers have found it easier to simply go colorless. “Gray is here to stay,” says Lynn Meyer of Lynn Meyer Showroom in New York City, adding that gray is doing a good job of holding its own against other neutral colors. “It’s a sophisticated color, and almost all shades of gray are appealing—you can’t quite say that about yellow and green.”

Gray’s calming, muted nature makes it not only perfect for apparel, it also has become a reigning shade in nursery décor. Having the ability to warm it up with red accents or cool it down with blue, gray is a tested crowd-pleaser for driving sales. —Emily Beckman

Little Giraffe blanket

Huxbaby shirt and pants

Firsts by Petit Lem babysuit

Feltman Brothers hooded cardigan

Under the NIle elephant plush

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Skechers sneaker

Native mesh shoe

Copper Pearl bibs

Lemon Loves Lime bunny cardigan

Skylar Luna kimono pajamas

Minymo one-piece Baby Steps outfit

Tiny Whales t-shirt

Angel Dear poncho

Old Soles slip-on

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On baby: American Widgeon jacket, Noomie pants, Oeuf socks; on him: model’s own shirt, pants and blazer.

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Model’s own striped shirt and suspenders; on baby: No Biggie top, Mira Rae sleeveless overalls, Huggalugs legwarmers, Baby Deer ankle warmers. Opposite page: model’s own striped shirt and watch; on baby: Lucky Jade sweater, Miles Baby pants.

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On baby: Slugs & Snalls tights, No Biggie dress, Baby Deer boots; on him: model’s own jewelry and tank top. Opposite page: on baby: Feltman Brothers long-sleeve pleated longall, Baby Deer socks; on him: Happy Socks socks, Florsheim shoes, model’s own jeans and shirt.

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On him: model’s own shirt and pants; on baby: PJ Salvage one-piece, Mini Mini Mass fake fur vest, Robeez socks. Opposite page: on him: model’s own striped shirt and blazer; on baby: Boboli shirt, Lucky Jade pants and bodysuit, Happy Socks socks.

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On baby: Masala Baby dress, No Biggie leggings, Baby Deer shoes; on him: model’s own sweater and pants. Opposite page: on him: Aknowledge hoodie; on baby: KicKee Pants sweatshirt, Puma pants, Kenzo bodysuit, Biscotti pants.

Grooming: Juliette Pereux/Bryan Bantry Agency; styling assistant: Madison Donaldson; male models: Aly N./Red Model Mgmt.; Axel S./Major Model Mgmt.; Moein and Henric O./New York Models. Postproduction: Lumière Studios.

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HAUTE TOPICS

Designer Chat TINA HUBER “People who know me know that I’m this mad scientist lunatic,” laughs Tina Huber, owner and founder of Madpax, creator of the sculptural spikey backpacks that burst onto the childrenswear scene seven years ago. “My then business partner said, ‘I have this crazy idea for a backpack’ and showed me the sample. It was so wrong in all the right ways.”

She recalls the early days when she asked her son to wear the first samples to school to gather some recon. “I felt famous,” he reported back. “Everybody wanted to touch Tina Huber flanked by her children and models. it, know what colors it came in and the teacher went crazy.”

Spiketus Rex, as those first styles were named, is the Scottsdale, Ariz.-based company’s bestseller to this day, now in 2,300 mid-to high-level boutiques in 19 countries.

In addition to those wonderful 3-D, prickly conversation-starters, Madpax now counts six separate collections ranging from a group of bubble-style backpacks to versions that conjure up images of dragons and scales. While adults are attracted to the edgy, futuristic designs, Madpax remains dedicated to the kiddies. Huber recently introduced The Pint, a shrunkendown version of the famous backpacks for 1- to 3-year-olds, and Artipacks, patterns that feature artists from the past as well as up-and-coming names in the art world. The beauty of the designs, according to Huber, is that everybody sees them differently. –Kristin Young How on earth did you come up with your first collection, Spiketus Rex? Kids are dinosaur-lovers. It’s merging 3D with reality. Everything now is so experiential, so vivid and so interactive. I applied it to backpacks. No matter what’s happening in the world, there are always going to be new kids. People are always going to always get their groove on, and they’re going to have to pay taxes. These are two things that we absolutely know.

When did you know you had something big?

We walked the ABC Kids show, and we literally could not get five feet without people stopping to ask us where our booth was. It was just wildfire after that. We were crazy to start something at that time—the economic climate was so grim. A lot of companies out there had not put a lot of money into research and development so there wasn’t anything new or exciting or novel. That worked in our favor. If people were responding to it in such a way, it’s go time.

What inspired your latest collection called The Pint?

You’re only as good as your last design. So I see a spike, and I see it as something from seven years ago. The Pint is about 10-inches tall, and they are so flippin’ cute. It’s absolutely precious. With the Full-Scale collection, I wanted something that’s part dragon and part Japanese man of war. This Full-Scale collection screams women, and it’s all in metallic. As long as we’re creating that how-did-they-do-that moment, we’re doing our job.

What led you to collaborate with artists?

This business starts and ends with children, and if it extends outside of that circle, that’s phenomenal. But we want children to feel good and confident. We want them to feel that the bag expresses who they are. The opportunity with Artipacks is it’s showing kids a Liechtenstein or a Keith Haring, and showing them artists of the future. We’re not building rockets, we’re

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EDITOR’S PICKS

Adventure Awaits Explore the world without leaving the nursery.

Lorena Canals rug Haptic Lab kite

Lil’ Pyar mobile

building backpacks, but we’re also building our future with these young kids. If we can make some kind of purposeful movement in the world, I know we’re on the right track.

From where do you draw your inspiration?

My kiddos, Holden and Hayden. My daughter asked me, ‘Can you do bubbles, mom?’ Well, I don’t know why in heck we can’t do bubbles, so we did that. And then my son was attached to Minecraft, so I thought, let’s take something that looks like a bottom of a shoe meets blocks for kids. I wanted it to be lightning meets a summer rain for the next one called Exo. My daughter created a backpack out of a cereal box. As my kids get older, the line matures. Literally, inspiration is everywhere if you’re looking.

The way you describe your designs is very artistic. Where does your artistic drive come from?

My grandmother, Mimi. She was a working artist, and she was the first one to take me to New York. I remember her taking me to the Guggenheim, which was the first museum I had ever been to. She would teach me how to look at art, why it was important.

When we weren’t doing that, she would take me to the theater.

She was such a mentor for me. I’ve gotta tell you the third meeting at my first trade show was the team from Guggenheim and as they were writing their order, I literally held back tears. How thrilled my grandmother would be to see they sell what I do in that space. I know it would make her smile.

What do you love most about Madpax?

The best thing that I can say about Madpax, is the fact that I have kids that can now say, there really isn’t anything that I can’t do. My daughter can craft what she thinks is the next big thing knowing it can be done. No fear. That’s what I want for them.

That’s what I want for all kids.

UP CLOSE

Spinning Le Top

Cutie Pie Baby heightens offering at better prices with latest acquisition.

S PRESIDENT AND CEO of Cutie Pie Baby, Eli Yedid asked himself how he could avoid getting crunched by lower profit markets in a deflationary business with prices that only seem to go down. The answer? Last year, the company acquired San Francisco-based 40-year-old Le Top, a brand known for its impeccable quality.

The move widens Cutie Pie Baby’s appeal to affluent Millennial moms and plans call for an expansion of the line as well as retail distribution, including a directto-consumer website.

“More moms are shopping on their own and not through boutiques so Le Top was a way we could tap into the consumer directly,” says Yedid. He explains that while Cutie Pie’s business operating 10 brands is not adaptable to direct-to-consumer because of its cost-restrictive $10 price point, Le Top’s core $40-to$50 range is perfect for the business model that has to absorb handling and shipping costs.

“We’re going to price it so that customers will still go to boutiques, if they want the option, but at the same time, we want to offer the convenience to shop

A

at home as well,” says Yedid.

Le Top’s plans call for a new e-commerce site, selling at Amazon while stepping up its brick-and-mortar retail distribution. Currently the brand is carried at more than 2,000 specialty stores.

While Yedid is beefing up the business, Le Top’s design team is adding more color and details like crochet, flowers and rosettes—in other words, give parents more bells and whistle. Thanks to Cutie Pie Baby’s sourcing and infrastructure, Le Top has also been able to lower prices for retailers.

“The buyers are really happy to see Le Top back and they’re thrilled that we’re passing the savings back to them,” Yedid says.

Completing his three-pronged approach to kicking Le Top into maximum gear, Yedid hired a public relations firm to place the product in the hands of moms like Kim Kardashian, Beyoncé and Amal Clooney.

“This is an important growth opportunity and I’m personally putting a lot of effort into it,” he says.

“I’m getting my hands dirty and I’m really enjoying it.” —Kristin Young

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Growth Spurt New President Marc Simhon expands Bon Bébé.

M

ARC SIMHON’S PERSONALITY fills up a room—and we mean that in the best possible way. As the new president of Bon Bébé, the New York-based 20-year-old purveyor of infant clothing (newborn to 6X), who joined the company in February, Simhon’s talks about his plans for the firm with such confidence, the observer has little doubt he can achieve his goals.

“In three to five years, we can double our business,” he says.

A natural salesman—you know, the type who could sell you a beach-front property in Texas—Simhon says the opportunity is there for the taking. “We have a significant presence in the market, our company is very well-liked, we have great quality product at a good price point,” he explains, noting that his due diligence before joining the company included 23 factfinding visits before compensation was even discussed.

“We’re looking to expand within our customer base.”

Specifically, plans call for expanding Bon Bébé and René Rofé Baby in addition to maintaining brands Wildchild, Emily & Oliver, UR Active, Isaac Mizrahi New York and

Rosie Pope. Simhon says growing product categories, such as blankets, pillows, hair accessories, hosiery and muslin, is the first priority. The company will also introduce gift box sets thanks to the segment’s sales which has come roaring back in the last few months. “We have a great professional, welleducated, well-oiled machine here,” says Simhon. “I think what was missing, and I don’t think it’s a bad thing to say, is a little more leadership.”

In addition, the firm is planning to produce more items in the U.S., another request from retailers. “There’s more opportunity in terms of price equations with the labor prices rising in China the last couple of years, the cost of importing things going up and fewer shippers doing it,” says James McPherson, Bon Bébé’s vice president and creative director. “There’s a little more parity in the market. So it’s not much more expensive to manufacturing certain items in the U.S.” With a background in economics, Simhon says it isn’t the apparel or manufacturing side of the business that gets him stoked. Rather it’s selling and working with people. “I’m excited,” he says. “The [retail] landscape looks dreary but there’s still enough doors to do business out there. I think if you evolve, produce cool trendy products, advertise, cater to a specific customer and work hard, there’s enough business. I’m an optimist.”

And what is a good saleperson’s most effective weapon?

“I’m not afraid to ask a stupid question, because I just got the best part of that conversation,” he says. —Kristin Young

HOT-BUTTON ISSUE

continued from page 12 We want to deeply invest in the story and stand behind it. It’s our mission. Our customers encourage and reward that.� Wild Was Mama doesn’t present gift sets for new parents and baby. Rather, the store encourages customers to buy gift certificates so that mom and baby get exactly what they need. When asked whether online shopping is encroaching on her business, projected for Bullock says no. “People pay a lot of money to live in this neighborhood,� she says. “They buy the brownstone, send children to good schools, and they PRODUCT SALES want the local wine store and the butcher.

People know us. And We have highlyBY trained salespeople to facilitate and empower families. I have no fear of online or big box stores.�

Thanks to a steady stream of newborns and grandparents, extended family and friends eager to open their wallets wide for the little angels at baby showers, customers come to Burro, which opened a kids store on Abbott Kinney in Venice, Calif., six years ago. The store features a wide assortment of clothing and toys from newborn to age 6. While the average purchase for birthdays usually rings in between $25 and $50, the average expenditure for newborns is double, between $50 and $100. “We sell swaddle blankets in sets of three, or maybe a little outfit with a book and a stuffed animal,â€? says Krista Harris, Burro’s childrenswear buyer, noting that despite the trendy neighborhood Yikes Twins and its edgy clientele, customers still tend to go for traditional pinks and blues. “It’s classic gift-giving,â€? she says. “People are willing to spend money on babies. They’re a little less willing when their a_Zi Wh[ ebZ[h$Ăˆ š

$3.2 BILLION

CHILD IN THE U.S.

2020

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S O U R C E : E U R O M O N I TO R I N T E R N AT I O N A L

BABY AND

Q&A IT COMES DOWN TO DESIGNING AND DELIVERING PRODUCTS THAT CATCH THE EYE AESTHETICALLY AND OFFER A SOLUTION.

A Show is Born!

fashion and function. Innovative design is an area in which Goldbug has always excelled at and it remains the focal point of our business today.

The all-new JPMA Baby Show features the industry’s most desirable vendors and unique educational opportunities, making it a one-stop destination for you to learn, network, buy, and build your business.

What are some of Goldbug ’s biggest challenges?

I think the challenge for any of us in this industry is to stay fresh, relevant and innovative. Certainly, there are things like sourcing and manufacturing that a company has to do well, but ultimately it comes down to designing and delivering products that catch the eye aesthetically and offer a solution. I think we’ve managed to stay ahead of these challenges by emphasizing product design first, by building a talented product creation team and then constantly challenging them to push and stretch creatively while at the same time making sure we don’t lose sight of the fundamentals.

» Explore top brands in sleep and furniture, mobility, feeding, child restraint systems, health and safety, gear, and soft goods under one roof. » Gain knowledge about trends, millennial parents, regulatory updates and other important business topics in a variety of educational formats. » Align your business with leading manufacturers and benefit from show specials.

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Goldbug is approaching its 50th anniversary. How will you commemorate the milestone?

That is an excellent question. We are looking at a number of fun ways to commemorate 50 years of being in business, but we’ve not finalized anything just yet.

JPMABabyShow.org | #JPMABabyShow

The Anaheim Convention Center

Where do you see Goldbug headed in the next 10 years?

I think you will see us continue to lead the industry in design for the children’s market. The investments we made in 2016 will help foster growth and capacity on the wholesale side, and the launch of branded products are something we will continue to grow in a strategic and methodical way that helps expand and diversify our entire portfolio.

ANAHEIM, CA CONFERENCE: MAY 9-12, 2017 TRADE SHOW: MAY 10-12, 2017 CONSUMER DAY: MAY 13, 2017

Do you have international expansion plans?

We have done some expansion to take on some of our own manufacturing through a new office overseas. Beyond that, we are still evaluating what makes sense in terms of other potential expansion opportunities.

(Anaheim Baby Show)

Presented by:

What do you love most about your job?

The work is fun, rewarding and challenging. But like anything, what makes it worth doing are the people you get to interact with every day. Goldbug started as a family business and it’s still very much a family business. That family is just a little bigger j^Wd _j mWi +& o[Whi W]e$

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LICENSING NEWS

WITH SUCCESSFUL PROPERTIES coming from television, toys and online platforms in 2016, this year is expected to be another solid performer in children’s licensing as long as the industry successfully navigates current challenges. According to Marty Brochstein, senior vice president of industry relations and information for the International Licensing Industry Merchandisers Association (LIMA), the major hurdles of the licensing community are twofold. “The market forces that are roiling the retail community, with major chains contracting or going out of business, in part because of the rise of e-commerce, makes it difficult for property owners and their licensees to plan and execute their business strategies,” he says. In addition, Brochstein notes, “The growing number of platforms being layered on top of traditional TV distribution makes it difficult for a new property to stand out and attract an audience sizeable enough to support a strong licensing program.” However, names such as Paw Patrol, Shopkins, Peppa Pig, Trolls, DC Superhero Girls and Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles have all shown strength. And Brochstein identifies collector’s items to be a significant driver in the kids’ market, listing Shopkins and Tsum Tsum as great examples.

Design Decadence JUVENILE FURNITURE BRAND DaVinci and manufacturer Million Dollar Baby Family have collaborated with children’s apparel juggernaut Carter’s on a co-branded furniture line. “While Carter’s gets many requests for licensing concepts, we have to be very selective,” says Kendra Krugman, senior vice president of Carter’s brands and licensing. “By teaming with MDB, Carter’s is able to offer a natural extension of our existing product line.” Featuring an assortment of cribs, dressers and toddler rails, the line will be available this June at Target, Amazon, BuyBuyBaby, Walmart and other large retailers. Cribs will come in white, gray and two-tone hues, all made of sustainable New Zealand pine wood with a mod aesthetic. Each crib is convertible to be used as toddler beds, daybeds and even full-sized beds.

Tee Time Got Game?

“AS WE’VE GROWN and taken on new licenses, we’ve had our eye on Nintendo for awhile,” says Jakki Liberman, president of Bumkins, of its latest collaboration. “As Millenials start families, Nintendo brings a very unique nostalgia and whimsy to an age group that grew up with Mario and Luigi,” he says. “They want to share their unique childhood experiences and characters with their kids, and early video games are really a huge part of that.”

The timing for the deal couldn’t have been better with Nintendo releasing its new Mario games and Switch console. The product line is anchored

by Bumkins’ award-winning SuperBib, which sports a total of eight different prints, sold in packs of two, and designed to fit children ages 6to 24-months. Other offerings include the Sleeved and Junior Bibs, a waterproof Splat Mat, reusable Snack Bags, travel-friendly Clear Front Travel Bags as well as a selection of six different teethers. Four teether options represent the vintage pixelated Nintendo style, letting babies gnaw on Mario, a red or green Super Mushroom, or a Goomba. Two other styles offer a realistic GameBoy or the original NES controller.

Wholesale prices range from silicone teethers for $5 to the melamine 5-piece mealtime set for $10.

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UNIQLO AND DISCOVERY Consumer Products, the licensing arm of Discovery Communications, unveiled a collaboration for a collection of unisex youth T-shirts embodying Discovery’s spirit of curiosity with fashionforward designs featuring animals, space and dinosaurs. This partnership will be supported with a worldwide digital marketing campaign, in-store promotion and cross-promotion between the two brands.

The T-shirts became available last month online at Uniqlo.com and at Uniqlo retail locations in the U.S., Europe, China, Japan and Southeast Asia. “Uniqlo’s

ability to blend global trends with our brand, while offering strong in-store statements and a social media presence made the decision easy,” says Leigh Anne Brodsky, executive vice president at Discovery Consumer Products. “Millennials want brands that stand for something, are authentic and available on multiple platforms.”

The new T-shirt collection targets ages 3 to 12, available in sizes S, M, L and XL. Each shirt has an MSRP of $9.90.

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NEW RESOURCES

Ro·Sham·Bo Baby

Miles Baby

helpme@roshambobaby.com www.roshambobaby.com

hello@milesbaby.com www.milesbaby.com » Inspired by the neighborhood that lines the Main in Montreal, Miles Baby is a brand full of playful vibes and gathers an illustrative aesthetic with a hint of nostalgia. For Fall ’17, contemporary kidswear comes infused with a better sense of style, as seen with pieces like jogging-inspired bottoms, chunky knits, practical overalls and geo-patterned tops.

Complementing the collection are three color groups that celebrate urban living from a distinct perspective. The journey begins with a wintry color story for boys and girls, contrasting sharply with pure black accents to stimulate fantasy and curiosity amongst children. In a nod to gender neutrality, a common ground is found in a nostalgic color palette of creamy tones, bold pumpkin hues and a pop of navy. Lastly, the brand’s Autumn-Winter lineup incorporates deep berry midtones and flecks of teal to asphalt accents, filling the mind with notions of expansive landscapes.

Featuring sweet add-ons, like beanies and headbands for little girls and matching scarves and tuques for boys, Miles Baby is revisiting every childhood classic. Sizes range from 3 months to 4 years, wholesaling from $10 to $22.

Toes & Bows

info@crivellimack.com www.mackandco.com » As Mack & Co.’s line continued to grow and dominate the kids’ market with fashion-forward outerwear, the team at Crivelli Mack, Inc. asked themselves what great accessory they could offer to enhance their popular coat offerings. The obvious answer to Creative Director Gerri Mack was Toes & Bows, a new line of tights, footless leggings and socks in bright and fun patterns that come packaged with a matching hair bow. “We added some new looks to our bestsellers by offering fresh color combinations and patterns to our wonderful tights with flower trims around the ankle—including a holiday color story,” Mack explains. “We also introduced a playful menagerie of funny fun critters.” Keep an eye out for raccoons, foxes and cats sporting flowers and bows in the Fall ’17 collection. The product line is available year round and re-orders are encouraged.

Available from size 3 months to 8 years with wholesale prices ranging from $8 to $12.

» Entrepreneurs and married couple Scott and Julia Morris recently created a line of stylish and durable (even chewable) shades for little ones, dubbed ro·sham·bo baby. The name references the nostalgic game “rock, paper, scissors,” paying tribute to the childhood game as a valuable teaching tool when autistic kids need quiet, calming and personal interaction. “We have autism in our family, so this has been and always will be a pillar of our business,” Scott explains, noting that the brand gives a portion of all sales to Surfers Healing, a California charity. “It’s all about what spectrum kids can do, not what they can’t.” Baby, kids and two matching adult sizes are all made from the same soft, flexible material. The company uses an Italian manufacturer with a background in toys to ensure quality and safety. All products are BPAand phthalate-free, 100 percent UVA/B-protected, small partscertified and shatter-resistant.

Full damage and lens replacement is even guaranteed. Fall ’17 styles includes colorways like red, coral, yellow, green, lavender, mint, pink and black, to name a few, all with fun ’90s pop culture names (like “ice ice baby”).

Wholesale prices range from $11 to $18.

Layette by 3 Marthas

info@3marthas.com www.3marthaswholesale.com » Established in 1988 to provide charming, timeless baby products made from high-quality materials with precise attention to detail, 3 Marthas continues to innovate and grow almost 30 years later.

The owners, Juli Dewar, Rachel Dougherty and Abby Goyne, are excited to announce their latest addition: Layette by 3 Marthas.

The layette line is a new collection of baby apparel pieces that are embroidered with some of the Dallas-based brand’s most popular characters (bunnies, lambs and whales) and finished with coordinating crocheted edging.

Made from 100-percent Pima cotton, the styles are available in blue, pink and white. Popular silhouettes include the playdress for girls and the playsuit for boys, both inspired by 3 Marthas traditional one-piece. The new line also features classic converter gowns, two-piece kimono sets, practical footies, large swaddle blankets, newborn hats and coordinating bibs. Available in sizes newborn to 9 months, wholesale prices range from $6 to $21.

WHAT’S SELLING

What was most important in launching Egg & Friends?

We realized that children are dynamic, and we cannot be everything to everybody. Finding and partnering with those brands that complement and sometimes compete with ours is the first formula of trying to achieve our goal to be the best children’s boutique.

What is the advantage to having a store in a resort location?

The demographics are extraordinary. Someone who is staying at the Boca Raton Resort and Club, be it for work or vacation is most likely a very premium customer. In addition, every week there are hundreds, if not more, new faces coming by and being exposed to our brand. Finally, it is such a happy place and whether you are there with your children playing in the pool or attending a convention, the memories and the connectivity of those memories to our offering is priceless.

What’s the biggest challenge facing the business right now?

Recognition. The market is vast. Not only are we affordable luxury, but we built ourselves to have understated elegance. The person who steps up isn’t necessarily going to know that you spent discretionary dollars to dress your kid in a premium product, so that sometimes is a challenge. There are clearly some people that do nice things at a lower price point, but we don’t think they have the quality that we do.

Egg & Friends Boca Raton, Florida

H

atched nearly 15 years ago out of a small New York apartment, children’s affordable-luxury label Egg by Susan Lazar is now sold in 250 boutiques nationwide, major department stores including Nordstrom, Saks Fifth Avenue, Barneys New York and most recently Dillard’s, along with additional dabbling in some international business. The celebrity-recognized brand also holds seven of its own brick-and-mortar stores, starting with its original location in Dumbo, Brooklyn, and over the years expanding to other shops in Southampton and TriBeCa in New York City; Birmingham, Mich.; and Georgetown, D.C., all under the title Egg by Susan Lazar.

However, this year, the brand launched a destination in the Boca Raton Resort and Club to be called Egg & Friends, introducing a new twist in the brand’s business model. Egg & Friends offers the Egg by Susan Lazar label, of course, but also includes complementary pieces by other brands, such as great shoes by Native Shoes and Old Soles or adorable plush items by Jellycat. “This goes back to the idea that all of us in this business are here to serve the retail customer first and make sure they are thoughtfully taken care of,” says Edward Harrison, CEO of Egg

by Susan Lazar. In late April, the brand also launched another Egg & Friends location in Nantucket, Mass. “I think opening our Nantucket store is our greatest recent business decision,” Harrison gleans. “We are really proud of how we have evolved and continue to develop the Egg

by Susan Lazar brand, and it makes a great cornerstone for a wonderful children’s boutique.” —Emily Beckman

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Do you think brick-and-mortar and e-commerce can cohabitate?

I think the market in general is trying to figure out what the best distribution channel is, whether it’s e-commerce or boutiques. We believe there’s a place for both. There is a great segment of people who like to connect and to-date there is no better interaction or ability to receive style support than in person. That said, we are agnostic and offer the customer the option to shop in the locale or venue best for them, be it e-commerce, a department store, their local boutique or one of our boutiques.

What sets you apart from the competition?

It’s my understanding that we are the largest independent children’s business that is vertically integrated with e-commerce retail and its own branded goods. I would like to think what differentiates our business further is that we put a heavy emphasis on the comfort and safety of our styles. In order: safety, comfort, fit, then style. We also have a severely broad appeal, which I think that pushes aside some of the other brands.

Any bestselling categories or ones you’re looking to expand?

We continue to thoughtfully test the upper limits of where our brand will go. We are really an infant-to-8 business, and we’ve just introduced sizes 10 and 12 for the current season. As we see results, we will continue to roll that out conservatively. We’ve also made an incredible pant called the ‘Perfect Pant’ that wears like sweatpants but looks like khakis—a great compromise for mom and kid. For 2018, the company is contemplating many new categories including active apparel.

Any retail predictions for the next 10 years?

If service and presentation are commoditized and/or if the online experience continues to evolve, brick-and-mortar will reduce, but there will still be a meaningful street presence in 10 years. Department stores will shrink their children’s offering due to economics and then you will see someone bring it back because it is a customer need/ want. In the interim, boutiques will be more and more important in the children’s sector.

FALL 2017

Corporate

Mark Zelen 212-216-6125 1385 Broadway, Suite 1800 New York, NY 10018

Caribbean/ Latin America/ South Florida

Rolando & Ana Hidalgo 305-599-8717

International

Nathan A. Mamiye 212-216-6008

Mid Atlantic

Mark Wolbransky 215-364-7906

Midwest

Richard Finkelstein & Al Zaiff 847-607-8543

North East

Bill and Sandie Ellsworth 781-326-3999

Texas/South West

Annette Cardona-Stein 214-637-4446

West Coast

Teresa Stephen 213-623-8155

Western Canada Jeff Swartz 604-681-1719

CLOTHING FOR THEIR LITTLE WORLD