Earnshaw's | April/May 2014 by Wainscot Media

K E E P I N G U P W I T H K A P I TA L K , A N D T H E K A R D A S H I A N S

VOLUME 98 NUMBER 4

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GEAR UP FOR SAFER SALES

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F R I E N D LY C O M P E T I T I O N I N C H I C A G O

APRIL/MAY 201 4 $10.00

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Dolce™ Chevron Blanket

2014 Earnie Awards

NOMINATE LITTLE GIRAFFE ™ FOR “IT” ITEM OF THE YEAR! Dolce™ Blanket

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SOCKS

Introducing 6 Pair Gift Box Sets

sales@unitedlegwear.com 212-391-4143

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APRIL •MAY 2014 IT’S TIME TO VOTE! We reveal our 2014 Earnie Award categories and our new Retail Advisory Panel, p. 38.

Noelle Heffernan Publisher Audrey Goodson Kingo Editor in Chief Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors EDITORIAL Angela Velasquez Fashion Editor Lyndsay McGregor Associate Editor Social Media Editor Samantha Sciarrotta Assistant Editor

ADVERTISING Caroline Diaco Group Publisher Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager PRODUCTION Tim Jones Deputy Art Director Production Manager

Frankie & Ava dress, stylist’s vintage cowboy hat and vest.

Mike Hoff Webmaster

FEATURES

FASHION

14 Safe and Sound New regulations on cribs, car seats and strollers make it more important than ever for retailers to keep customers updated.

28 True Grit Designers mosey up to classic looks with a western edge for babies this fall.

20 Boy Wonder Kapital K’s young founder and owner Spencer Sujjaporamest reveals how the brand helped elevate boys’ fashion. 24 Three’s Company Instead of competing as rivals, a trio of Chicago-area store owners share how they work together for success.

4 Editor’s Note 6 Talking Points 8 Hot Properties 10 Fresh Finds 12 In the Bag 16 On Trend 40 Behind the Seams 48 Stargazing

On cover: Frenchie Mini Couture gingham bodysuits and Mayoral jeans on both, stylist’s bracelets, bandanas and cowboy hats. Photography by Amanda Pratt. Styling by Annie Caruso. Hair and makeup Sue Martin. Prop styling by Cecelia Elguero. Baby wrangling by Kaysh Shinn.

CONTACT INFO Sales/Editorial Offices 36 Cooper Square, 4th floor New York, NY 10003 Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 advertising@9threads.com editorialrequests@ 9threads.com Circulation Office Joel Shupp 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9threads.com CORPORATE 9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300

Pediped moccasins

Xen Zapis, Chairman Lee Zapis, President Rich Bongorno, CFO Debbie Grim, Controller

EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10003. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

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editor’s note A FEW WEEKS ago I braved the brutal Florida heat and crowds of squealing youngsters to wait in line for hours and purchase an overabundance of overpriced trinkets. And I loved every minute of it. I’m not alone. More than 17 million people visited the Magic Kingdom, Disney’s flagship park, in 2012—making it the most visited theme park in the world. Every day, thousands of people pour through its gates, happily prepared to part with far too much money and guzzle far too many bottled beverages. What’s more, Disney doesn’t even have the fastest roller coasters or the wildest rides. In fact, the park’s most iconic rides, like Space Mountain and It’s a Small World, are more than 40 years old. So what’s the secret? What makes the Magic Kingdom live up to its slogan as “the most magical place on earth?” It’s probably a better question for my 3-year-old nephew, Aden. His eyes lit up the moment we entered—when he got a chance to dance with Woody from Toy Story—and the excitement didn’t stop until the final fireworks over Cinderella Castle. We watched a sword fight with Captain Jack Sparrow from Pirates of the Caribbean, and a Broadway-style revue where Mickey Mouse and Donald Duck saved the audience from the evil Maleficent by chanting, “dreams come true.” (Adorably, Aden kept repeating the phrase the entire weekend.) But his favorite part, he said, was getting “to see all the characters.” There were plenty of hugs to go around, especially for his favorites, Wreck-It Ralph and Jake the Never Land Pirate. Leave it to the marketing gurus at Disney to capitalize on one of the key cornerstones of retail success: When you don’t have the best or most affordable products on the market, you better create the most memorable and enjoyable experience. And what an experience! Despite

Everyday Magic Cast a spell over your customers with a little help from Mickey Mouse and friends.

The smile says it all: My 3-year-old nephew Aden was thrilled to get a hug from Goofy.

its massive crowds, you won’t find a speck of bubblegum or graffiti anywhere in Walt’s kingdom. (Trust me, I looked.) I later learned that all of the Disney parks are filled with utility tunnels, so its “cast members” can maneuver from one area to another without being spotted. You won’t find a cowboy from Frontierland in the futuristic Tomorrowland. (Speaking of cowboys, be sure to check out our adorable Western-themed baby shoot, on p. 28.) Not to mention, we all were happy to reminisce about our beloved childhood favorites. My mother loved seeing Mary Poppins. I loved the Little Mermaid. Aden went wild when he saw the princesses from Frozen. So what lessons can children’s retailers learn from Disney’s example? First, create an unforgettable experience. Don’t skimp on details. Establish an emotional connection between your store and your shoppers that lasts for generations. But mostly, don’t forget your target market. Mom and Dad may make the purchases, but it’s the littlest customers who keep them coming back for more. If kids are eager to visit your store, then parents will be willing to linger longer and perhaps pick up a few more items. After all, we’re all in the business of making kids’ dreams come true.

AUDREY GOODSON KINGO

audrey.kingo@9threads.com

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Talking

Points

BLACK SWAN

Teamed with an explosion of tulle, shimmering tonal sequins, patent leather and quilted satin, black makes an elegant return to girls’ fashion without losing its edge. From complicated mixed media coats to statement-making party dresses, the moody hue is the foundation for a myriad of bold trends spanning moto, punk and grunge. Yet it is just as relevant and swoon-worthy on simple tops and winterized shorts for everyday wear.

Runway Rundown Children’s hottest trends get the catwalk treatment. The tiniest tastemakers and fashion trailblazers gathered in New York City on March 8 for PetiteParade. The high-energy exclusive event showcased the looks of the season from Imoga, Alivia Simone, CCandy, Mischka Aoki and Bonnie Young in back-to-back runway shows that left kids, moms and retailers pinning after these must-have trends. —Angela Velasquez

Mischka Aoki

Imoga

HAIR APPARENT

Fit for a snow princess, the featherlike tendrils, decadent fur collars and minky soft mohair that floated down the runway brought a natural look to special occasion frocks and skirts—a tame alternative to previous seasons’ affinity for wild animal prints. A cloudlike color palette and touch of metallic enhances the fantastical look, while simple, less-is-more silhouettes allow the materials’ beauty to shine.

Bonnie Young

BOXED IN Mod-era fashion made an impression with boxy shift dresses, sweaters and jackets. The voluminous toppers done up in a range of metallic jacquards and wondrous faux fur punched up the uptown appeal of kicky tennis skirts, kilts and slim pants. Short-sleeve shift dresses cut a sharp look, too, dressed down with sneakers, or up with tailored layering pieces including sleeveless blazers and double-breasted coats.

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Sister Act

Babies “R” Us keeps up with the Kardashians with an exclusive line. “I USED TO be the buyer for my mom’s children’s store, but I didn’t have kids at the time and only bought things I liked without thinking about practicality,” says television personality, retailer and designer Kourtney Kardashian. How times have changed. Kourtney, who inspired a thousand Masons when she gave her son the moniker in 2009, is now lending her trendsetting touch to children’s fashion alongside her intrepid sisters Kim and Khloé with their Babies “R” Us collection coined Kardashian Kids. “We all have different ideas when it comes to baby clothes, and we each have something to say, but we first considered items that were our favorite pieces and things that we wish we could find more of,” she explains. The collection, which retails from $15 to $30, spans one-pieces to trendy peplum tanks,

ruffled skirts and sleeveless dresses for girls up to 24 months. For style inspiration, Kourtney delved into her daughter’s closet. “I was given a leather motorcycle jacket for Penelope. It was one of those special baby shower gifts and it looked amazing, but it was difficult to dress her in it and to get her in the car seat, so we added a more practical version to the collection that is soft and comfortable,” she notes. Gold dots and all-over leopard prints help pack a Kardashian-style punch, too. “Kim is a little afraid of prints for baby clothes,” Kourtney reveals. “But I love them. We did a butterfly printed dress that I think is very special. And a beautiful dress always wows at a baby shower.” Keeping all types of moms and gift-givers in mind, Kourtney describes the range as “a good combination of trendy and classic essentials

Kourtney Kardashian poses with her new kids’ line.

and fashion pieces” but notes that comfort and durability was always top of mind during the design process. “Everything from shirts to blankets had to be super soft. My kids won’t wear anything itchy,” she says. After all, her own childhood is a very clear memory: “I’m still haunted by some of the scratchy clothes my mom made me wear,” she laughs. —A.V.

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big kids

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HOT PROPERTIES

Photo Real Rashti & Rashti rolls out apparel for Anne Geddes.

ANNE GEDDES, THE Australian photographer famous for snapping photos of tiny tots dressed as everything from fairies to flowers, is expanding her empire with a line of baby clothes manufactured by Rashti & Rashti. “I feel that children’s clothing is a natural extension of my photographic work, and the benefit of such a respected firm in making this happen allows me to continue to use my time in creating new images while still keeping a working brief on the designs and long-term planning,” Geddes says. A concise collection of dresses and two-piece sets for girls hits shelves this spring, featuring delicate design details such as tulle trim and grosgrain ribbon. The upscale line will expand for fall to include several groupings for boys, as well as coordinating blanket and plush items, and Gedde’s ‘awww’-inspiring photos influence each piece. “I personally love the simple and classic designs and colors, and the inclusion of lovely floral patterns and phrases like ‘Do you believe in fairies?’” she notes. Sizes range from newborn to 12 months and prices are available on request. For more information, contact Rashti & Rashti at contactus@rashtiandrashti.com. —Lyndsay McGregor

Sock Man Jonathan Adler and United Legwear outfit small feet in style.

INTERIOR DESIGN MAVEN Jonathan Adler has added another accessory to his ever-expanding empire: colorful crew socks for kids. Manufactured and distributed by United Legwear, the unisex socks are made from 86 percent combed cotton and feature fun graphics like fruit and circus animals. Wholesaling for $5.60 for a three-pack, the socks are available now in sizes 12-24 months and 2-4T. For Fall ’14, boxed sets of six pairs for boys and girls will be offered in sizes 0-12 months and will wholesale for $17. Regarding the growing Adler hosiery program (men’s and women’s styles are also available), Isaac E. Ash, president and CEO of United Legwear Co., says the line extension makes perfect sense. “As a premier lifestyle brand, Jonathan Adler is not just present in the living room,” he notes. “Now everyone in the family will have fabulous socks.” Targeted sales channels include better department stores and specialty retailers. For more information, contact Rita O’Brien at (212) 391-4143 or rita@ unitedlegwear.com. —L.M. 8 E A R N S H AW S . C O M • A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 4

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Madeline Turns 75! A host of licensees celebrate the iconic character’s milestone.

BEFORE RAMONA QUIMBY or Junie B. Jones, the true childhood heroine with spunk aplenty was a little girl in a big yellow hat with a ribbon down the back. Author and artist Ludwig Bemelmans first brought Madeline’s adventures to life in 1939, and to commemorate the book’s 75th anniversary, the New York Historical Society is hosting

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an exhibition from July 4 to Oct. 13 entitled “Madeline in New York: The Art of Ludwig Bemelmans” and showcasing illustrations from the series. Retailers can join in the celebration, too: Licensees are hopping on the Madeline merchandising bandwagon to bring consumers everything from stationery to pajamas. “We recognize that properties like Madeline only come along once in a blue moon and we strive to make sure that all of our licensed products remain true to her spirit and unique character,” says M.J. Chisholm, the licensing agent. Yottoy will release a soft poseable doll dressed just as her creator drew her, right down to her appendix scar, along with her loyal companion, Genevieve. Yottoy will also offer an illustrated tin tea set packaged in a paperboard suit case decorated with stamps from all the places Madeline

travels in her books. Books To Bed will produce a pre-assembled pajama and book set wrapped in cellophane and tied with ribbon. Out of Print Clothing will offer T-shirts and one-pieces printed with the 1939 first edition cover (at left), and Galison Mudpuppy presents a wooden magnet set, locked diary and shadow puppets. “While the Madeline products are designed and created primarily for girls ages 2- to 6-years-old, mothers and grandmothers who loved Madeline when they were young and want their children and grandchildren to love her, too, are every bit as much our target market as the little girls themselves,” Chisholm notes. For information on how to reach the licensees, interested retailers can contact Chisholm at (706) 232-8589 or cabin5inc@earthlink.net. —L.M.

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RESH FINDS Trick of Eye

Simple silhouettes and look-at-me prints pair perfectly for fall.

Ba Ba Bling Baby’s range of trompe l’oeil tees for kids enters the wholesale market in 2014. Showcasing seasonal trends with a grown-up twist, drawn-on details like bow ties, suspenders and shades playfully update raglan shirts for boys and girls in sizes 3 months to 6 years. Wholesale prices range from $12 to $17. Visit www. babablingbaby.com.

Natural Hair

Unlike many hair care products on shelves today, which contain dangerous toxins that are harmful to children, Rock the Locks is a natural and environmentally friendly solution created for kids. With fun names like Not So Knotty, the products are made without using red dyes, sulfates, alcohols, parabens or gluten, while a patent-pending spray technology uses compressed air instead of aerosol. Sizes range from 4 oz. to 8 oz. and wholesale prices range from $6.35 to $7.95. Go to www.rockthelocks.com.

Art Studio

San Francisco-based Alivia Simone has ripped a page out of Mother Nature’s sketchpad for its sophomore collection for girls ages 3 to 12. Made in the U.S.A. from fabrics imported from France and Italy, dresses and blouses are daubed with abstract florals in a vibrant palette of hot pink, kelly green and lemon yellow, while embossed faux leather and quilted satin add interest to skirts and jackets. Retail prices range from $175 to $650. Go to www.aliviasimone.com.

Classic Cool

The Dragon and the Rabbit blends bold colors and simple silhouettes to bow a debut collection of smart, casual clothes for kids in sizes 2T to 6T. Based in New York, the owners named the brand after their children’s Chinese zodiac birth years. Girls get gingham, polka dot and floral dresses and tops, while crisp cotton button-downs, cargo pants and graphic tees abound for boys. Available in an all-American palette of red, blue and white, wholesale prices range from $12 to $29. Visit www.thedragonandtherabbit.com.

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Sweet Dreams

Babies sleep up to 18 hours a day, so blankets should be soft against skin. Enter Naaya by Moonlight and its range of 100 percent cotton quilts, blankets and cushions. Subtly sweet designs spanning whales and elephants to owls and giraffes are made in India using the ancient art of block printing. Wholesale prices range from $7 to $55, and quilts and blankets come packaged in reusable bags for easy gift giving. Check out www.naayabymoon light.com.

Laid-Back Looks

Moving into its third season this fall, California-based Frankie & Ava merges British heritage with West Coast-cool for a look that’s comfortable, colorful and understated. A mix-and-match palette of navy, red, gray and black lends itself to leggings, cardigans, shirts and jackets, and all of the sweaters are hand knit in the U.K. Sizes range from 0-3 months to 5-6 years and wholesale prices range from $11 to $76. Go to www.frankieandava.com.

A Ball of Fun

Asked to invent “the greatest toy ever made” for a school project, 6-year-old Max combined two childhood essentials to make one new favorite: a plush ball that transforms into a teddy bear with a secret compartment. Dubbed Buddy Balls by MaxLand Toys, the soft toys are suitable for kids ages 3 and up, available in four color combinations and wholesale for $15 each. Check out www.buddy balls.com.

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Bright Idea

If girls just want to have fun, then Nina & Nelli has a solution: Its colorful, comfortable collection for little ladies sizes 2T to 14. Entering its third season, the Los Angeles-based brand offers everything from leggings, dresses and skirts to cardigans and hoodies, all loaded with ruffles and playful prints. Most styles come in a cheery palette of purples, pinks and other girl-approved hues, but the brand’s black and white collection is its bestselling for Fall ’14. Wholesale prices range from $16 to $30. Visit www. ninaandnelli.com.

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IN THE BAG

Take a Hike 5

The call of the wild beckons this Mother Natureâ&#x20AC;&#x201D;one of the 34.5 million who unplugged from her iPhone and explored the great outdoors last year, according to the Outdoor Foundation. And with baby gear becoming more durable, packable and functional, hitting the trails with tot in tow has never been easier. Thanks to the plush bunting suit, cozy blanket and no-spill cups in her canvas bag, she can enjoy the fresh air carefree, all the while kindling an early love for the outdoors in her little one, establishing a tradition that will take her family to new heights.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Angela Velasquez

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1. Hevea natural rubber teether 2. JJ Cole Collections faux shearling blanket 3. Wee Woollies beanie 4. Philips Avent sippy cup 5. Skip Hop wet bag 6. Babo Botanicals sunscreen 7. Columbia fleece lined bunting 8. BumGenius reusable diaper 9. A.D. Sutton & Sons camouflage print sneakers 10. SoYoung canvas diaper bag 11. Hobo clutch wallet.

PHOTOGRAPHY BY TIM JONES

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SHOP

class With consumer product regulations getting stricter, gear up for safer sales by familiarizing yourself and your staff with the facts.

FOR MANY A new parent, standing in the baby gear aisle for the first time can be an overwhelming experience. Now, thanks to a recent slew of safety requirements for strollers, carriages, bassinets and cradles, not to mention new installation rules for car seats, it can be just as unfamiliar a territory for retailers. “Many of these changes are highly technical and there are a lot of them. As a result, it requires retailers to re-educate themselves as to what the changes mean, what it means to the design, style and functionality of the product and when they’re going into effect,” summarizes Kelly Mariotti, executive director at the Juvenile Products Manufacturers Association (JPMA), a non-profit representing 250 manufacturers who make 95 percent of the prenatal to preschool products on the market. It all stems back to the signing of the landmark Consumer Product Safety Improvement Act (CPSIA) in 2008, which mandated an increased awareness that manufacturers, importers and retailers must have in the design, sourcing, procurement, production, labeling, marketing and sale of their products. The changes to strollers and bassinets, which fall under Section 104, are a giant step forward for safety—and should cut back on recalls, too. Rather than relying on voluntary compliance, retailers and consumers can be confident that products manufactured after the effected dates have been tested to rigorous standards. Same goes for the National Highway Traffic Safety Authority’s (NHTSA) new rule for car seats—it’s all about keeping children safe. Looking for suggestions on how to effectively communicate these regulations in your store? We spoke to the experts and broke down the rules so you can sell the safest products to your customers. As Mariotti says, “It’s more important than ever that retailers spend a lot of time educating themselves so the consumer is getting the correct information.”

SAFE AND SOUND

By Lyndsay McGregor

The CPSC stresses that when it comes to cribs, bare is best, like this one by Delta Children’s Products.

SAFE SNOOZING Because babies spend most of their time sleeping, the nursery should be the safest room in the house. Unfortunately, that’s just not the case—more children under the age of 1 die every year from sudden infant death syndrome and suffocation than from car crashes. In an effort to reduce sleep-related infant deaths, the Consumer Product Safety Commission (CPSC) implemented new federal standards for cribs in 2011. As part of that, traditional drop-side >44

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GEARGUIDE

ADVERTORIAL

PACI-PLUSHIES BY NOOKUMS

Paci-Plushies by Nookums puts an end to lost pacifiers! Our Paci-Plushies Buddies, Shakies, Lovies, Blankies and Chillies all attach to most name brand pacifiers, including Avent, Mam, Nuk and Soothie, as well as our Chillies. Refills available for teethers and our Chillies Icey Packs for older kiddos. Double your money with our buy-one-get-one-free starter kit, for new accounts placed through July 1, 2014. Check us out at www. paciplushies.com, e-mail sales@paciplushies.com or call (888) 530-6601.

TIMI & LESLIE

Why settle for an ordinary diaper bag when you can have a Timi & Leslie? Our guiding philosophy is that being a parent does not mean sacrificing style to gain function. With Timi & Leslie bags, moms get the best of both worlds. They can look chic and stay organized. Fashion, function… You really can have it all! Visit us at the ABC Spring Conference, booth #221, or at www.timiandleslie.com. Call (508) 650-4200 or e-mail sales@essentialsbrands.com.

goumikids

goumikids Love these brands? Look for more in our September Gear Guide, distributed at the ABC Kids Expo in Las Vegas.

GOUMIKIDS

GEARGUIDE To participate, contact noelle.heffernan@9threads.com or call (646) 278-1531.

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Goumikids creates beautiful baby essentials that work. Founded by two moms and previously named Guavakids, the brand’s mission is to create products that improve the lives of parents and everyone around them— locally and globally. The new collection will include new prints for the brand’s eco-conscious mittens (Goumimitts), baby booties (Goumiboots) and the latest addition, a newborn hat (Goumihat). Wholesale prices range from $6 for mitts to $8 for boots/hats and $20 for a newborn set. Visit us at the ABC Spring Conference, booth #121, or at www.goumikids.com. For sales, contact Linsey Ebuen at wholesale@goumikids.com or call (888) 946-4828, x2.

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OnTrend Blune sweatshirt

Amberley London dress Émile et Ida corduroy pants

Venettini Mary Jane

Unruly Blue three-piece suit and shirt

PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY BY MCCANDLISS & CAMPBELL. STILL PHOTOGRAPHY BY TIM JONES. RUNWAY PHOTOGRAPHY FROM PITTI IMMAGINE BIMBO.

Milibe Copenhagen one-piece

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Pomchies headband

Storksak diaper bag

PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY BY MCCANDLISS & CAMPBELL. STILL PHOTOGRAPHY BY TIM JONES. RUNWAY PHOTOGRAPHY FROM PITTI IMMAGINE BIMBO.

Kallio cape

Whether you call it maroon, oxblood, cordovan or burgundy, the dark red color that has become a staple in fall collections exudes autumnal richness and more. From red carpets to French wine, the color has a long history of being associated with the finer things in life, not to mention being the color of choice for esteemed institutions like Harvard and Gryffindor, Harry Potterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s assigned house at Hogwarts. And this season it takes top honors as the new must-have neutral. Combine the deep hue with a pop of golden mustard or cobalt blue for a classic collegiate look fit for the first day of school. Or bring sophistication and drama to the holiday party scene with a solid burgundy frock.â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Angela Velasquez

Burgundy Bound

Fun & Fun

Paxley sunglasses

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OnTrend

When Karl Lagerfeld converted Chanel’s Fall ’14 runway into a grocery store stacked with double-C branded edibles, and newly-minted Moschino designer Jeremy Scott sent models down the catwalk in McDonald’s-inspired dresses, the designers confirmed what childrenswear has been cooking up for a number of seasons—haute cuisine is the new haute couture. The American Dietetic Association reports cooking with kids can help stir up an interest in trying healthy foods they would normally refuse. And while the latest cupcake and burger-inspired threads might lack nutritional value, the pupu platter of photo-real leggings, printed pajamas and chef-approved accessories might just be the key to getting budding Batalis and promising Payards into the kitchen. —A.V.

Snack Time

Zara Terez leggings

Mini Maniacs bib

Flapjacks reversible hat Little Toader broccoli and chicken wing teethers

Little Me footie

Stargate Apparel robe

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Mini Messages lunch box napkins

Teryelle Girls denim jacket

Sara Sara Neon top

PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY BY MCCANDLISS & CAMPBELL. STILL PHOTOGRAPHY BY TIM JONES.

Kushies longsleeve bib

iScream taco pillow

Lemon Loves Lime knit hat

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Q& A

With a keen eye for fashion thanks to a decade of design experience, Kapital K’s young founder Spencer Sujjaporamest helped usher in a new era

Boy Wonder BROWSE THE AISLES of any children’s boutique, and it’s hard to imagine a time when boys weren’t bedecked in dashing herringbone blazers or retro graphic tees. But just a decade ago, the kids’ market offered far fewer choices for trendsetting little guys. Before the success of brands like Andy & Evan and La Miniatura, the conventional wisdom held that rough-and-tumble little boys, unlike their stylish sisters, simply weren’t interested in fashion. Give ‘em a T-shirt and athletic shorts, and let ‘em go play. Boy, were we wrong. If any brand illustrates the fallacy of that line of thinking, it’s Kapital K. Before Andy & Evan shook up the boys’ world with their shirtzie and before Project Runway winner and La Miniatura Founder Jeffrey Sebelia blazed into boys’ with skinny jeans and tuxedo jackets, Kapital K Founder and Designer Spencer Sujjaporamest quietly came on the scene in Spring ’09 with a boys’ brand that was anything but subdued. While Sujjaporamest’s first collection certainly offered traditional staples, like hoodies and T-shirts, it was the brand’s sophisticated details, like trompe l’oeil ties on classic tees, that put Kapital K on the fashion map—and helped Sujjaporamest pick up his first few retail accounts. “I did a lot of research before I launched Kapital K, and I found that the market was pretty saturated with girls’ lines—there are a lot of pretty dress lines with sequins and all that—but it really lacked a cool boys’ brand that looked like it came off the menswear runways in Milan,” Sujjaporamest recalls. “I came from high fashion, and I thought it was the right time to bring that fun, sophisticated and really cool look to kids.” At the time, Sujjaporamest was working as the founder and designer of his own semi-eponymous women’s label, Spencer Sirichai. But the young designer and Parsons grad had previously racked up years of design, production and merchandising experience at an array of children’s companies, including Rashti & Rashti, Children’s Apparel

PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY BY XOXO

of dapper apparel for little dudes. BY AUDREY GOODSON KINGO

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Where do you get your inspiration? Network and Kids Headquarters (now UP CLOSE WITH Everywhere! A lot of time it surprises owned by apparel industry giant Li & SPENCER SUJJAPORAMEST people where our inspiration comes Fung). Not to mention, he grew up in from. Sometimes it’s from watching Children by Ransom Riggs. the garment industry, helping with What superpower would people in the street, but a lot of times his family’s manufacturing factory you love to have? it comes from fashion shows, trips What’s your favorite way to in Thailand. Add it all up, and it’s I would love to be able to talk we take, books we read, art work, to animals because a lot of no wonder that Sujjaporamest was spend a free afternoon? fabric—it’s everywhere. Sometimes times I don’t know what my perfectly poised to spot a gap in the This is bad, but I like to binge we even get inspiration from women’s two dogs, Cosmo and Bailey, boys’ market, and to design, produce watch Downton Abbey. shows. For Spring ’14, we got really are telling me. and merchandise a collection so well boyish with the collection, and the suited to filling the niche. What three things could you two themes we ran with were bugs And that’s exactly what happened. What are you reading right never live without? and nautical. I don’t want to say we now? Now, Kapital K is carried at more than The first one is easy. I never went crazy with all the bug stuff, but I’m reading a wonderful 200 retailers, including online giants leave the house without we definitely went over and above. young adult novel called Miss like Amazon and Look.com, as well as Chapstick. Netflix is my secThere are even ants crawling over the Peregrine’s Home for Peculiar ond pick, then frozen yogurt. in a number of overseas boutiques in pockets, and that’s one of our bestsellJapan, Australia, Korea and Kuwait. ers. We never get too literal, but when Following the success of its core we have an inspiration we try to find collection, available up to size 6, the a way to make it fun, unusual and one of a kind. When you look at our brand also introduced a baby line last year, as well as a capsule colleccollections, people usually tell us they have never seen anything like tion, dubbed Mr. K, with a more formal touch. And thanks in part to it, and we take that as a great compliment. his experience in the character licensing arena at Children’s Apparel Network, Sujjaporamest hints that he’s not afraid to look into licensing How did you grow the brand in the beginning? deals down the road, particularly in the footwear category. The very first time we went to ENK Children’s Club was back in 2009, It’s all part of his master plan to turn Kapital K into a lifestyle destinaand that’s how we got our first accounts. But even before we went to tion for little dudes—a goal that definitely seems achievable with the the show, we did a lot of research. And we had a lot of helping hands recent spike in style-conscious kids of both genders. Nowadays, trendfrom our friends and family in the industry that I’m grateful for. After driven boys’ apparel is almost ubiquitous, thanks in part to designers a couple seasons, we started working with showrooms, and that’s been like Sujjaporamest, who helped foster the notion that boys could be a great help. From there we started having stronger strategies and comfortable and cool at the same time. It’s also helped that menswear marketing plans. In the beginning, we didn’t really have a social media has become more refined, and that parents are increasingly seeking presence. We didn’t start that until a few years ago, and that has helped dapper looks for dads and dudes alike. (Think bow ties, boat shoes and tremendously too. cardigans.) Sujjaporamest also credits the growing demand for stylish boys’ looks to fast fashion chains like H&M and Zara, whose affordable Tell me about your social media strategy. price points have introduced high-fashion trends to an untapped slice of Right now, we’re on Facebook and Instagram. We’re pretty active on the consumer market. “Even Target is doing the same thing,” he points Facebook. Our efforts on Instagram are really, really light, but we’re out. “You go into Target now, and it’s not the traditional stuff you found going to amp it up a bit. We don’t do every outlet. We pick a few that five or 10 years ago. It’s all high fashion.” work for us, and we stay there. Facebook has been great for us, and we There’s also, of course, the irresistible lure of the web, where shoppers think Instagram will be, too, once we get that going. Social media is like can browse everything from the latest couture looks from the runways fashion—you have to keep evolving with it. of Milan to grungy-chic street style in London’s East End. “Everyone wants to look cool, and thanks to the Internet, information is passed Did your previous stint in the fashion industry help in the beginon to consumers so fast now,” Sujjaporamest points out. “You can look ning? up #coolfashion right now [on Instagram] and start getting inspired My past professional experience has helped a lot. My design experience by how people are dressed—and it trickles down from adults to kids.” helped me tremendously in merchandising the line—how to plan it out It all adds up to a boys’ market that’s more competitive than ever. at the beginning of every season so everything works at the end. From But Kapital K’s intrepid designer isn’t discouraged by the number of how many colors we offer to how many tops or jackets or pants, it’s all new brands on the boys’ fashion scene—quite the opposite, in fact. “It’s a big math equation at the very beginning. It’s a puzzle, and we have to great that we have more and more competition,” he asserts. “It makes put it all together. And my production experience helped a lot because us want to be better and better.” it gave me a really good understanding of how things are made and to keep costs in line with our margins and with the wholesale prices How does Kapital K stand out from the competition? we offer. It really gave me a good clear plan of how to launch the line. Price point is definitely one way. Everything is pretty affordable, espeWhen a lot of people start out they’re so focused on design and sales, cially for the looks that we offer. We’re always a little offbeat, a little they forget about production. downtown and very high-spirited. We’ve always known that we want to offer high fashion shrunk down, and that’s our calling—offbeat but And overseas production can certainly be a challenge! very versatile fashion. But our main goal was to do it at a very affordDefinitely. I would say 95 percent of our merchandise is produced in able price point. 2 0 1 4 A P R I L / M AY • E A R N S H AW S . C O M 2 1

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Thailand, and Thailand increased the minimum wage by 35 percent in the last few years, so that became a big challenge for us to overcome. Another challenge with importing goods from overseas is timing. You have to boat it, and that takes at least a month. But if you work backwards and plan smartly, you can almost always get it done right. It’s certainly not without challenges, but we try our best to get it done right. What’s the biggest lesson you’ve learned as a designer? You have to stay true to yourself. If you have a point of view, you have to stay focused on it. At the same time, you have to listen to feedback and try to make your collection better every time. Fashion is such a business of evolution—you have to evolve every season. Do you incorporate feedback from retailers? Definitely. We always get very helpful feedback, sometimes from smaller boutiques and sometimes from big retailers, and it all helps. Every season, we gather all the feedback and try to determine what’s the most important and what works best in terms of staying true to being Kapital K. At the end of the day, our name is on everything we do. So feedback is important to us when it’s applied right. Kapital K is carried at hundreds of retailers across the country. How do you please everyone? That’s why we have a lot of SKUs in our line. Not everyone is going to buy the same items, but there’s something there for everyone, depending on how you want to put your assortment together. For Los Angeles, the look is more laid back—T-shirts do well over there, and a couple of our light jackets. On the other hand, I don’t want to say New York

is more fashionable, but it’s more thought out. Kids in New York tend to get into fashion more than in Los Angeles. But comfort is key for boys everywhere, right? Boys just love to run around—T-shirts are always their go-to item. For everything we design, we always have that in the back of our minds. Is it comfortable for boys to wear? Is it easy for mom to put on and take off? That’s a big factor. Kapital K is sold everywhere from small boutiques to Amazon. What’s your take on mass e-tailers? We look at Amazon as a way to promote our brand, a self-driven PR machine. We always think of it as a nice way to be in the same arena as other brands. At the end of the day, it benefits our boutiques as well, because customers can go online and they can shop competitively. They can come to the store and get the customer service that they might not get from the big retailers, or they might be able go to Amazon and get an incentive, for example, a sale or something the boutiques might not be offering at that time. We think it’s a mutually beneficial relationship—for us, for the big retailers and for the boutiques. It promotes competition, and I think everyone benefits at the end. What made you decide to branch into the baby arena last year? We kept getting requests to go into bigger sizes, but we went lower, and we did that because we knew there was a void in the market, and we had a really clear vision of what we would offer in a newborn collection. It’s still very fun and sophisticated and high fashion, for baby boys to look as cool as their big brothers and dads. We do all kinds of

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fun coveralls, with a lot of details you don’t necessarily see in the market, like printed sneakers on the toe caps, so it looks like he’s wearing shoes, or wing tips, so it looks like he’s going to work. I think little details like that set us apart from other brands, on top of the quality we offer. Last time we even did a line within the line called Mr. K, offering blazers for baby. It was more of a dress-up line, but nothing for us is really dress up—you dress it down with a pair of jeans, but the items are there for you to mix and match. We paired them with really nice knit denim pants that were super comfortable but looked like real denim. How did it perform? Really well. It keeps getting bigger, and this fall, we even added a section for layettes that’s more gifty and more precious, but still has those cool, fun Kapital K touches. Any other areas of expansion in the pipeline? Right now we’re happy with what we’re offering, and we’re trying to make it better and better every season, so we’re focused on that. However, we are going to look more into distribution overseas. But no other big plans right now. We’re just doing what we think we do best. What’s been the biggest challenge of late? It’s definitely the market climate. A lot of times you hear unemployment news, and then the market goes up and down. Maybe it’s too much news. Maybe people have to stop watching the news and get to the stores. [Laughs.] It’s been like that for quite a few years now—I don’t want to say it’s been unstable, but it’s definitely been up and down. That’s one reason why retailers are watching their dollars more closely, and buying more immediates. Absolutely. Retailers who would normally come to ENK two shows ago to buy for the next season now show up for immediates or maybe one show ahead of time. They don’t want to buy so far in advance anymore. It all goes back to what we discussed. In fashion, it’s so fast now. You can’t predict what’s going to be hot in six months or a year. And with the economy the way it is, many retailers want to come at the last minute when they know their budget and know what people want. So the landscape is changing a little bit. Have you shifted your business at all as a result? We’re still showing our collection in advance, in a slightly traditional sense, and then when you’re ready to come, we’ll take care of you. Looking ahead, how do you feel about business in 2014? We always have a positive outlook, and we do the best we can, but nobody has a crystal ball. Hopefully if we talk again next year, I can say to you that that we had a good year. We stay positive, and based on everything we’ve seen so far this year, I feel like it will be a good year. What’s your favorite part of your job? I love interacting with people, but I’m always going to be a designer at heart. I love getting ideas in my head, putting it on my computer, drawing it out on paper, getting it made and making it come to life, from 2-D to 3-D. I personally fly to the factories to get the samples made so they come out correctly, and every time I get so excited. It went from what’s in your head, and now you’re holding it. Of course, then you have to sell it. [Laughs.]• 2 0 1 4 A P R I L / M AY • E A R N S H AW S . C O M 2 3

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[ON THE BLOCK]

PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPH BY JOHN KONSTANTARAS.

From left, Chicago-area retailers Randi Kowal, Simone Oettinger and Michelle Vanderlaan at Oettinger’s Evanston, IL, boutique.

Three’s Company

Working together for success, a Chicago-area children’s retail trio epitomizes the true meaning of friendly competition. By Lyndsay McGregor

N AN ORDINARY December day, Simone Oettinger, owner of Maya Papaya & Tony Macarony in Evanston, IL, received a phone call about a certain pink Tea Collection dress. “Do you have it in stock in a 5/6?” the caller asked. “I sure do!” Oettinger replied. “Great! Can I give you credit card details over the phone? Someone will come by later today to pick it up.” Sounds familiar, right? Lots of small business owners take orders over the phone to keep customers happy—but this caller was not a customer. It was Michelle

Vanderlaan, owner of Sugarcup Trading, another children’s store in nearby Oak Park, calling on behalf of one of her own shoppers. “Michelle’s customer needed a size that she didn’t have in stock,” Oettinger shares. “So while I made a sale, she provided a service so the customer didn’t have to go online and find the dress somewhere else.” It’s just one example of how these two Chicagoarea retailers, along with Randi Kowal, owner of Little Threads in the city’s Roscoe Village neighborhood,

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work together to drive sales and enhance their customers’ experiences. The savvy shopkeepers connected a couple years ago at a Tea Collection Retailer Workshop in San Francisco and have kept in touch ever since, sharing strategies and tried-and-true tips to grow their businesses—and becoming firm friends in the process. Together they face many of the same struggles, have met plenty of similar challenges and, most importantly, have developed their own unique way to survive and thrive in today’s increasingly cutthroat retail landscape. “We’ve had the opportunity to really come together and work in a way most childrenswear retailers don’t,” Vanderlaan says. “Our markets are close enough together that we can send customers to each other’s stores but far enough away that we don’t feel like we’re competing.” It’s not just their relationship that’s unique—their Chicago-area customer base is, too. “They’re creative, they like to think outside the box, they like to take chances with new brands and they really like to support local businesses,” Kowal says. Vanderlaan agrees. “That sense of community is a huge part of who they are: loyal, local and proud,” she notes. And if a customer can’t find what she’s looking for in Sugarcup, she’s more than willing to heed Vanderlaan’s tip and trek across town to one of the other stores, instead of turning to her smartphone in search of an online solution. It’s just one reason why the seasoned retailers realized that working together as a team— rather than as business adversaries—is a far better strategy for longterm success. SHARING IS CARING What can a storeowner specializing in preemie products learn from a boutique whose business is tween-centric? Or from someone whose store stocks mostly trendy yet affordable duds for boys and girls? The short answer: a whole lot. Each boutique has different strengths and the ladies have learned to maximize each other’s talents. “I recently stopped by Michelle’s store because she got a delivery of something two days before I did, so I got to see how she merchandised it, and now I’m copying her!” laughs Kowal. That’s fine by Vanderlaan. After all, her store’s name is based on the time-honored tradition of borrowing a cup of sugar from a neighbor. “The more we continue to galvanize and leverage what we’re doing and how we’re doing it, the better we can collectively compete with mass merchants and online retailers,”

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Randi Kowal often borrows merchandising ideas for her store Little Threads (top) from Michelle Vanderlaan’s shop, Sugarcup Trading (above), while Simone Oettinger often gets great event ideas for her boutique, Maya Papaya & Tony Macarony (left), from Kowal.

she says. That’s not the only way Vanderlaan competes with the big dogs. Sure, her kid-friendly shop is chock-full of clothing and toys presented in compelling vignettes that incite a look-what-I-found giddiness amongst her younger clientele, but Sugarcup’s main attraction is its trading bar. There, children over 6 can trade in their own mint condition toys, clothing and games in exchange for points that can be used to buy store merchandise. (Each item in the store is labeled with both a price and a number of points.) “It’s educational because kids will actually go through the store and use their decision-making skills to determine whether they should spend, save or donate the points they earn,” Vanderlaan explains, noting that it’s one of the strongest drivers of foot traffic to Sugarcup. Since opening her store three years ago, Vanderlaan has learned that a commitment to her community—rather than trying to chase business thousands of miles beyond her physical storefront—is the most effective means to grow her business. “We have been very successful and exceeded our records year after year, month after month. It’s easy to want to continue off into bigger things and other locations, and that’s something we want to make sure we manage well. It’s important to grow deeper and lay down some roots,” she says. “People have so many choices and online is a big component of that. You have

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to always think about what’s going to make your store experience so unique that people will want to come back over and over again and explore and dwell.” Oettinger echoes this approach. When she moved Maya Papaya & Tony Macarony from a 400-square-foot space to a 1,000-squarefoot storefront two years ago, eliminating clutter and merchandising her store with front-facing, organized displays was her No. 1 priority. “Not everybody has the patience to go through a store item by item, rack by rack. The average shopper wants to walk in and immediately see something. Making product visible is key,” she says. To that end she balances bestsellers from Kickee Pants and Truly Me with Beatrix New York backpacks, Eeboo activity sets and plush toys from Gund. “Most kids have no patience for shopping. When they come into the shop and see toys they get very distracted. The key is to keep a balance between distractions so the parents can shop while also keeping kids engaged in the buying process,” she says, adding, “If the kid loses it, the parent will lose it—and I will lose a sale.” But her biggest battle as a brick-and-mortar retailer today is creating new ways to entice shoppers into her store. “Customers want to pay the least amount, and unfortunately we have conditioned them to want that. We need to pull them back in and offer uniqueness and quality,” she says, noting that she’s even competing with some of her own vendors. “How do I get people to buy from me versus ordering online from big mass merchants like Amazon and flash sites like Zulily?” In an effort to keep repeat customers engaged, she offers a flexible return policy. “That will make a customer actually buy something because she knows she’s not stuck with it if it doesn’t work out,” she says, adding that good customer service isn’t just about being nice and friendly—it’s offering something that the customer values. That’s why Kowal hosts crafts and story time once a week at Little Threads, as well as CPR classes several times throughout the year, using social media to let her fans and followers know what’s going on. And when something is particularly successful, she urges Oettinger and Vanderlaan to try a similar technique in their own stores. “We’re always trying to generate fun events to bring in customers when we’re not running sales, promotions and giveaways,” she says. She also offers a loyalty program called Little Bucks that rewards customers every three months with $5 back on every $100 spent. “It’s one way to remind people to think of us,” she says. Since meeting Vanderlaan and Oettinger, she’s come to think of them as business partners. “It’s nice because we’re not competitors, and they’re such a good resource. I can ask them for tips on how to merchandise a new delivery, or if I’m unhappy with my store manager I can ask for advice on how to talk to her,” she notes. “It’s great that we can talk so candidly.” UNITED THEY STAND The customers—and karma—that come from supporting each other aren’t the only way these retailers pay it forward to their advantage. For Oettinger, working together is more than a chance to share insight on how to build a loyal following; it’s an opportunity to network with her peers. “Storeowners are very lonely people because there’s only so much you can tell an employee,” she says. That sense of camaraderie is something she’s sorely missed since setting up shop six years ago. Before that, when she worked in the

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have the opportunity to talk through your pains and your struggles,” she says. Since connecting with Kowal and Oettinger, she’s been able to share not only her problems, Little Threads Sugarcup Trading Maya Papaya & but advice, too. “We don’t look at each Tony Macarony other as competition by any means at all, for girls: Tea Collection for girls: Anything from Hannah dresses Banana and Ragdolls & for girls: Layering dresses by and I think that’s what’s special and what’s Rockets Tea Collection and Winter different about our relationship.” The relafor boys: Anything by Water Factory tionship is especially important, she adds, Mayoral for boys: Any cotton knit since sales reps aren’t keeping close tabs in T-shirts fo r boys: Nano’s elastic waist for infants: Coccoli knit cargo pants the day-to-day business of what’s selling. one-pieces shoes: See Kai Run “Reps need to get out and see the stores and for infants: Rompers and footies gi fts: Aden + Anais, Little gif ts: Chewbeads necklaces, be consultants. They’re not close enough to Giraffe and Skip Hop Aden + Anais swaddle to ys: Goldie Blox sets us and to the customers to see what’s hapblankets and Bla Bla dolls pening,” she says. “We have only a handful of reps that will come in and say, ‘Before you order, what moved last year and what didn’t? Why didn’t it work?’ Those are the kinds of questions that manufacturers should be demanding from dog-eat-dog world of software development, there was always sometheir reps.” one with whom to share her woes or brainstorm. “The biggest differStill, banding together makes more than good business sense— ence between now and then is not technology versus retail—it’s going it’s even helped prevent counterfeit purchases. When a $1,700 sale from being part of a big corporation where there are established proat Little Threads turned out to be fraudulent, Kowal quickly let the cedures, rules and hierarchies, to being in business by yourself. You other retailers know. “Michelle called me to ask what the man looked have to make every decision and are held accountable for every decilike and sounded like, and it fit the bill of someone in Sugarcup at the sion,” she says. “Networking with other storeowners is key because time,” she recalls. “I was able to stop what happened to me from hapyou find out you’re not alone.” pening to her.” How’s that for teamwork? • Vanderlaan agrees. “As a boutique owner you’re an island. You don’t

WHAT’S SELLING AT...

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4/16/14 12:42 PM

From left: Kapital K flannel one-piece, Mayoral jeans, stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s bolo tie; Kapital K flannel coverall, bandana by Albetta, stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cowboy hats.

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Mayoral denim shirt and jeans with suspenders, Frye boots. Opposite page: Little Me sheriff top, Mayoral jeans, stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s belt.

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From left: Pink Chicken dress, stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s vintage cowboy boots and hat; Knot blouse worn under Kallio apron dress, Freshly Picked moccasins.

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From left: Noch Mini heart top, Frankie & Ava jeans, Freshly Picked moccasins, stylist’s bolo tie; Appaman flannel button-down, Noch Mini corduroy skirt, Little Giraffe leggings. Opposite page: Pink Chicken dress worn under JoJo Maman Bébé cardigan, stylist’s bolo tie, vintage vest and hat.

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Ă&#x2030;mile et Ida blouse, Noch Mini corduroy bloomers, Lamantine lambskin vest, Freshly Picked moccasins. Opposite page: Noch Mini clip dot romper, pants by Lamantine, stylistâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s hat. Stylist: Annie Caruso; Hair & Makeup: Sue Martin; Prop Stylist: Cecelia Elguero; Baby Wrangler: Kaysh Shinn.

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EARNIE AWARDS 2 0 1 4

THE DATES Nominations May 1-June 1 Nominees Announced July 1 Voting Aug. 1-Sept. 1 Winners Announced Oct. 1 Earnie Awards Ceremony Oct. 20

It’s Time to Vote! Do you work in the children’s industry as a retailer, rep or brand executive? Would you like to recognize your favorite companies for a job well done in 2013? Nominate them for an Earnie Award! Hosted by Earnshaw’s magazine, the Earnie Awards honor outstanding brands in the children’s industry, as voted by the retail community. Since the Earnies are the only awards program voted on by industry experts, winning an Earnie Award signifies a valuable mark of recognition from the retail community. The Earnies will be bigger and better than ever in 2014! Check out our revamped website, which makes voting a breeze, at earnieawards.com. We have also added three new categories: Best Toys, Best Gear Brand and Best Sleepwear. And we are pleased to announce our new Retail Advisory Panel, which helped select our initial nominees. Comprising five seasoned children’s retailers, the Retail Advisory Panel provides invaluable insight throughout the process and helps ensure that the Earnie Awards go to brands that truly deserve a ringing endorsement from the retail community. (Want to be on next year’s panel? E-mail Editor in Chief Audrey Goodson Kingo at audrey.kingo@9threads.com.) What are you waiting for? Visit earnieawards.com and nominate now!

THE CATEGORIES Best Licensed Apparel & Accessories

Best Infants’ Collection

Best Hosiery

Best Boys’ Collection

Best Footwear

Best Girls’ Collection

Best Accessories

Best Tween Collection

Best Outerwear

Best Gift Items

Best Swimwear

Best International Brand

Best Dresswear

Best New Brand

Best Denim

Best Baby Gear Brand

Best Made in the U.S.A. Brand

“It” Item of the Year

Best Sleepwear

Best Toys

Best Showroom

Company of the Year

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THE RETAIL ADVISORY PANEL

Carol Adams Owner Torly Kid New York City

Simone Oettinger Owner, Maya Papaya & Tony Macarony Evanston, IL

Jamara Ghalayini Owner Pumpkinheads Brentwood, CA

Miki Brugge Owner Cotton Tails Memphis, TN

Jennifer Atkins Co-owner Angelique Kids New Orleans

Carol Adams moved to Tribeca 12 years ago, when the retail scene consisted of delis and dry cleaners with nary a boutique in sight. In 2004, as Tribeca was bursting at its seams with new families, she opened Babylicious, loaded with clothing, toys and books for the under-7 set. Six years later, Babylicious became Torly Kid, a one-stop-shop for tots to tweens. Named after her two daughters, Tori and Carly, Adams keeps the aesthetic decidedly hip but always practical. Every year, Torly Kid hosts various fun-filled, philanthropic and educational events for children and tweens, and in 2013 the store raised nearly $1,000 in an effort to help reopen the New York Aquarium after suffering major damages post-Hurricane Sandy. Torly Kid also holds monthly tween book club meetings and a weekly toddler story time for neighborhood families.

Simone Oettinger has been obsessed with children’s fashion for the past 16 years. The ordinary need to keep her two daughters clad rapidly escalated into a quest for the perfect outfits. When their closets would no longer shut, she started trading clothes. The hobby eventually turned into a business, when Simone left her career in the software industry to open Maya Papaya & Tony Macarony, in Evanston, IL, in 2008. Stocking looks from tried-and-true brands like Zutano to trendy new tees by Typebaby, Oettinger’s shop has become a go-to destination for Chiacgo-area parents looking for funky and fun clothing, gifts and toys.

Prior to founding her Los Angeles-area boutique, Pumpkinheads, in September 2005, Jamara worked as a senior business consultant for Deloitte Consulting. There she began volunteering in local schools and working with children that were in desperate need of books, clothing and food. The experience inspired her to develop a plan to help, so in the spring of 2005, she utilized her business expertise to launch Pumpkinheads, a luxurious children’s boutique that quickly became a celebrity favorite by offering stylish brands like Scotch Shrunk, Splendid, IKKS and more. Thanks to the store’s success, Pumpkinheads has been able to generate more than $300,000 through its charitable endeavors, supporting organizations like The March of Dimes, Art Share LA, Baby2Baby and Children’s Action Network.

In 1988, Miki Brugge left her job as a fashion buyer for Macy’s to start her own store stocked with fun and unique children’s clothes. Now celebrating nearly three decades of success, Cotton Tails keeps Memphis-area moms and dads coming back for more with a diverse mix of brands that spans the fashion spectrum—from Southern favorites like Bailey Boys to pretty frocks by Persnickety. With a reputation for quality products and exceptional customer service, Cotton Tails has become a tradition for families across the Southern United States and beyond. In 2013, Brugge was honored with an Earnshaw’s Hall of Fame award for her outstanding contributions to the children’s retail community.

Jennifer Atkins was born and raised in the rich cultural traditions of the South. Her mother won many international competitions for her French hand-sewing, and her father was in the luxury travel business. Together, her parents inspired her interest in vintage customs and couture. Jennifer now lives in New Orleans with her husband and three children. She co-owns Angelique Kids on eclectic Magazine Street. There she mixes the traditional with modern offerings, including brands like Nui Organics, Joah Love, Anthem of the Ants, Pink Chicken and Tea Collection. Looking to give back to her community in the wake of Hurricane Katrina, Atkins partnered with Cricket Lapeyre to create Peony, a locallymanufactured, vintageinspired children’s line.

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BEHIND THE SEAMS APPAREL

Candy Land

Lemon Loves Lime spins into the tween segment with Lollipop Twirl.

ITH A NAME as sweet as Lollipop Twirl, Joy Cha has a surprising way to describe her latest line, an offshoot of popular girls’ brand, Lemon Loves Lime: “We call it the evil sister,” she says, laughing. But if Lollipop Twirl is the spice, it’s only in comparison to her sweeter little sibling. Cha launched the tweenfriendly collection in 2013, when her own daughter began outgrowing the “frilly, fairy tale” styles she creates for Lemon Loves Lime. As she began shopping for the 10-year-old, she noticed a lot of typical tween retailers only offered “punk rock looks” that simply weren’t to her taste. “That’s not how I want to dress my daughter,” she explains. “I still want to keep her innocent. I feel like a child should be a child.” Instead, Cha aimed to appeal to the tricky tween segment with bright, bold styles that merge what moms want and girls love, with fewer ruffles and more metallics, and lots of oversized pockets and comfy leggings. “It has the same feeling as Lemon Loves Lime, but it’s more of a tomboyish look,” she says of the Fall ’14 collection, available in sizes 4 to 12. Lollipop Twirl’s more streamlined looks also ring in at a lower price point than Lemon Loves Lime, Cha notes, at $7.50 to $18 wholesale. The tween line is only one of the busy designer’s recent ventures in the children’s market. In 2012, she created boys’ brand Gnu and also branched into the baby category with Lemon Loves Lime Layette. But it all began in 2008 when she launched her first collection for Lemon Loves Lime as a one-woman-show. “My living room became my warehouse, my dining room was my office and my kitchen was my charging and shipping room,” she describes. At first, she traveled across the U.S., France, Canada and the Bahamas, selling her bright, beruffled looks at trunk shows. But, “It was exhausting, and I never got to see my daughter,” she recalls. Someone suggested she look into the wholesale market, and the switch quickly catapulted the brand’s production from around 3,000 to its current rate of 100,000 pieces in 2013. Now, Cha is no longer a one-woman-operation, thanks to support from her husband Bill, who serves as the company’s owner and CEO, as well as six sales reps across the U.S., and one in the U.K. Not to mention, the brand’s Peruvian production team, who she credits with maintaining the quality her customers’ love. “I consider us unique in being that company that still believes in arts and crafts,” she adds. —Audrey Goodson Kingo

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CMC_Earnshaws_0314_ThirdVertical.pdf

3/28/2014

Royal Touch

A menswear designer lends sophisticated flair to his first children’s collection.

OST DESIGNERS BRANCH into the children’s market after meeting their own little bundle of joy, but that wasn’t the case for husband and wife team Willie Poon and Patricia Fung. Instead, they were inspired to launch a kids’ line after watching one friend after another venture into the brave new world of parenthood. Poon, already a designer for his men’s label Loft 604, realized that designing for kids would simply be more fun. Shortly after the realization, the couple’s daughter Charlotte was born. Clearly, it was time to take his skills into a new category. “There’s a lot more creativity in kids than men’s,” Poon points out, adding, “We can use a lot of different elements like different trims.” Fittingly, the duo’s first foray into children’s is chock full of kid-friendly details, like contrast trims on blazers and bear-shaped appliqués made of pearl and lace. Dubbed Little Charberry after their daughter, the brand debuted at the January ENK Children’s Club show, where retailers gravitated toward its handsome blazers for boys and round-neck cardigan with gold buttons for girls, as well as a

dress with a built-in silk scarf around the neck. “A lot of the buyers said the line seemed very British and had a royal flair,” Poon notes. Even though the collection offers dressier looks for little ones sizes 2 to 6, the couple knows comfort is paramount. Keeping sensitive skin in mind, they decided to craft the entire line using only natural and organic fabrics. The brand’s popular scarf dress, Poon notes, is made of 100 percent organic cotton. Wholesale prices range from $12 to $69. Though Poon, who worked as design director for high-end men’s loungewear brand American Essentials, serves as the collection’s designer, he notes that launching the brand is entirely a team effort for the couple. “We created the whole collection together—from putting down our original concept and idea on the drawing board and sourcing materials such as fabrics, trims and appliqués overseas to organizing our first trade show and creating a brand image that incorporates a royal feel.” Befitting that regal appeal, the couple would love to see Little Charberry in Harrod’s in London, or Galleries Lafayette in Paris, Poon admits. Or, even better: “Maybe the royals will pick up our line one day.” —A.G.K.

CMY

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BEHIND THE SEAMS ACCESSORIES

Spice Market

Peppercorn Kids mixes a winning recipe with a wide range of accessories for boys and girls. they were so receptive. “Those hats and bracelets were so amateur, so primitive, so undeveloped in my point of view, it makes me laugh,” she says. But she was clearly on to something. Now manufactured in China and available at more than a hundred retailers across the country, Peppercorn Kids offers jewelry, belts, necklaces, winter knits and hair accessories for girls. And Onesto recently ventured into the boys’ market with neckties, bow ties and belts. The brand’s wide selection is part of its strength, she notes. “Usually people specialize in one area. I mixed a cocktail. That was kind of risky, but it worked.” Onesto found another showroom, then another, and finally expanded into a wholesale business.

She credits the brand’s success in part to her design philosophy, which keeps busy moms in mind. Comfortable, washable fabrics and materials are key, and all products must be easy to use. “I wouldn’t make anything that I wouldn’t put on my own child,” she says. And keeping it affordable, with wholesale prices from $5.50 to $20, is a must. “I don’t believe in ultra-expensive accessories,” she adds. New for Fall ’14 are knit crown headwraps and matching mittens, which Onesto says were popular with buyers at the March ENK Children’s Club show. She hints, “I think it’s going to be a hit.” —Samantha Sciarrotta

Beginnings Introducing a new children’s clothing collection designed to be a natural extension of Anne Geddes’ photographic work!

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AIDA ONESTO LOVES risks and hates regrets, so when she sought an outlet for her creative side three years ago, she went big. Inspired by her own children, Sofia, 8, and Nicholas, 5, Onesto started Peppercorn Kids, the Chatsworth, CA-based line of clothing and accessories for fashion-savvy youngsters. “I thought I could do better than what I saw in stores. I always liked to create, to visualize.” So Onesto began crafting a line of hats and bracelets. In 2011, she walked into her first Los Angeles showroom completely cold, accessories in hand and hoping for the best. “I showed them the products, and their eyes lit up,” she remembers. Looking back, she’s not sure why

www.rashtiandrashti.com

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Band Aid

Looking for a stylish no-slip hair solution for her daughters, a California mom launched a line of handcrafted accessories.

AIRCLIPS AND HEADBANDS were a scarcity in Nancy Sakamoto’s home six years ago. She desperately needed a product to help her young daughters keep their hair back and out of their faces, especially since they both refused haircuts. But much of what she found failed to do the trick. Clips wouldn’t stay put, or they would fall out and go missing. Some accessories didn’t match Sophie and Maile’s outfits, while others just didn’t catch her eye. Eventually Sakamoto took matters into her own hands, and Too Cuties was born. “I’ve been crafty my whole life, so I thought I would make my own,” she says of the urge that led her to launch a line of non-slip, kidfriendly hair accessories that meld function and fashion. It wasn’t long before parents at her daughters’ school noticed her handiwork,

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and soon a friend offered to introduce the line at her shoe store. Soon after, Sakamoto met her first sales rep and started toting her hairclips, bows and headbands to showrooms. “There wasn’t a huge rush to grow it quickly,” she recalls. “It grew over time. I wanted to make a quality product.” Six years later, it has—Sakamoto’s line of bows, headbands, clips and headscarves can be found in over 50 stores across the U.S. Each product is handmade in San Carlo, CA, using 100 percent Holland wool felt and high-quality designer fabrics. Her designs tend to skew towards a more modern look, which comes from what Sakamoto sees California kids wearing. “In the area we live, I don’t see too many people into the big bows and things anymore,” she observes. “It’s toned down quite a bit. It’s not as cutesy. We’re seeing a lot less pink.

You don’t have to be a girly-girl anymore.” Instead, Too Cuties focuses on understated felt bows and hairclips decorated with whimsical prints for girls ages 2 to 8. The brand’s reversible headbands are one of its biggest sellers. One side is fashioned using a designer fabric, while the other features a character print, which Sakamoto orders from Japan. “We’re trying to portray a cleaner, more modern look,” she explains. “We’re not overly sparkly, not too stuffy or frilly.” Wholesale prices range from $3.25 for ponytail holders to $6.50 for reversible headbands. “We do emphasize quality in our products,” she adds. “Though they’re mass-produced, we still hand-make every product here.” —S.S.

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cribs manufactured before 2011 can no longer be sold because the moveable side could detach and entrap, suffocate or strangle a baby. Now bassinets and cradles have been regulated, too: a new federal safety standard, which came into effect on Apr. 23, addresses mattress flatness, stability, structural integrity, side height and more. But stricter safety standards can only do so much. “Nearly half the infant crib deaths and bassinet deaths are the result of suffocation from overcrowding in the baby’s sleep environment,” reports Nychelle Fleming, a spokesperson for the CPSC, noting that oftentimes when parents add blankets and bumpers to the crib to make it look cozy they are creating a new danger for baby without even realizing it. Now the agency is scrutinizing crib bumpers, researching whether they, too, are a hazard. “Bare is best when it comes to a baby’s crib,” she stresses. Mariotti points out that research shows people will behave with a product in the way it was presented to them in print or at the store, so be sure to scrutinize your store displays and ensure they’re presenting a safe sleep environment. “Retailers think if they put lots of stuff

“It’s more important than ever that retailers spend a lot of time educating themselves so the consumer is getting the correct information.” in cribs in their store display that parents will know not to do the same when they get home, but that’s not necessarily true,” she says. The JPMA advises that for kids under the age of 1, a safe sleeping environment does not include such suffocation hazards as pillows, blankets, comforters, stuffed animals and other pillow-like products. In fact, some companies are voluntarily phasing out crib bumpers or making them less prominent in their product lines. Aden + Anais, Babyletto and Kushies don’t offer crib bumpers on their websites. The Land of Nod stopped developing them in 2013.

Giggle’s Better Basics Bedding and Skip Hop’s Complete Sheet Bumper-Free Crib Bedding don’t include them either. A firm mattress covered with a tight-fitting crib sheet is all babies need and store displays should mimic this, Mariotti advises. If parents are worried baby will be cold without a blanket, Fleming recommends pointing them towards footed pajamas and sleep sacks. Joe Shamie, CEO of Delta Children’s Products, says retailers should also advise customers on where the crib should be placed inside a room. “Imagine that the child eventually will be able to reach out at arm’s length or more around the crib. There should be nothing the child can touch or grab, like a radiator or a window blind cord,” he says, noting that it would be helpful to hand out educational brochures from safe sleep organizations, too. As he puts it, “Retailers are willing to help educate new parents more than ever—and they can cover themselves, too, by doing that.” SAFE TRAVELS Finding a car seat can be a confusing task for consumers—and it just became even more

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mindboggling. The American Academy of Pediatrics recently recommended that kids ride in a rear-facing car seat until at least 2 and remain in car seats until 8. But in March the NHTSA issued a new rule requiring car seat labels to warn parents not to use the LATCH (Lower Anchors and Tethers for Children) system once the combined weight of the child and the seat reaches 65 pounds. The LATCH system, which requires car seats to be secured to the seat’s lower anchors (those metal bars located in the vehicle seat crease), became a popular installation method in the last decade as it was believed to be safer. But the NHTSA discovered that the lower anchors might not be strong enough to hold heavier kids in heavier seats in the event of a crash. However, regardless of weight, the agency still advises that parents continue to use the top tethers (the anchors for which can be found on the car ceiling, behind the seat or under the seat) at all times. Confused yet? While a spokesperson for NHTSA says the label is intended to provide clear and consistent information on the use of anchorage systems, child safety specialists are skeptical.

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“LATCH has been around for more than a decade. It was supposed to make things easier and simpler for parents, but it’s still very confusing, and it hasn’t accomplished what many safety regulators thought it would,” says Julie Vallese, consumer safety expert at Dorel, makers of Maxi-Cosi, Quinny, Safety 1st and Cosco. In fact, 90 percent of car seats are incorrectly installed and the new weight limits are certainly not going to improve those numbers. Brooks Watson, co-founder of Chicago-based Safety Squad and a Child Passenger Safety (CPS) technician, says baby gear sellers are primed to get involved in the conversation. “The retailer should be the one that guides [expectant parents] into an education, not just a sale,” he says, adding, “Rather than try to navigate the long layers and multiple scenarios with many different cars and car seats and how much you’re debating they weigh, highlight the lock-off system.” Lock-offs are devices that are designed into the shell of convertible car seats and the base of carriers that ensure a secure installation using only a car’s seatbelt (without using lower anchors). NHTSA believes this is safe but stresses that retailers should inform their customers that the

right car seat for them is one that is designed to fit both their child and their vehicle. Stephanie Tombrello of SafetyBeltSafe U.S.A., a national non-profit dedicated to child passenger safety, and active in CPS for more than 40 years, agrees. She adds, “That’s a big area where you could sell more forward-facing seats with higher weight limits if you point out that kids will be using them longer.” And always encourage consumers to work with a certified CPS technician, Watson says. “Get a solid list of where parents can actually go to get their car seat installed, not just one from the NHTSA website,” he advises, since the NHTSA list includes every person who received CPS training, and may not include active installation technicians. In other words, don’t discourage parents from making a safe choice by giving them an outdated list. “Do your due diligence and make some calls,” he recommends. He adds that retailers could also hire a technician to host a car seat installation day or pay for an associate to become certified. Storeowners should also encourage anyone who purchases a car seat to register it with the manufacturer who can then contact them when there are any recalls for defects. Tombrello even

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advises offering to mail the registration cards for them. And if you’re considering putting safety messages on your website or in your store, get an expert to proofread them for errors. SAFE STROLLS Nearly 1,300 reports of stroller malfunctions have been filed with the CPSC since 2008. Close to 400 of these incidents involved injuries and four resulted in fatalities. Problems with folding and canopy hinges caused the highest injury rates: Of the 75 incidents reported, 72 resulted in injuries such as pinching, lacerations and amputations. That’s far too many, the CPSC concluded, so in an effort to make strollers safer, the agency is adopting new federal standards that address some serious design flaws, such as faulty folding mechanisms, restraints, lock failures and wheel problems in current stroller models. Manufacturers will now be required to improve warning labels and assembly instructions, alerting consumers about possible hazards, and they will have to run more rigorous tests for parking brakes, locking mechanisms, adjustable

features, hinges, restraints, wheels and overall stability. The most intensive testing will focus on all the moving parts involved in folding the stroller: Manufacturers must prove that the hinges, folding bars and locking mechanisms pose minimal risks to parents and children when used correctly. Where does that leave your store? “For retailers, it’s a matter of understanding time frames and when these regulations go into affect,” Vallese of Dorel says. All strollers and carriages made after Sept. 10, 2015, must comply with the new standard, but anything already on the shelf can still be sold. And because many manufacturers take their cues from the most recent voluntary standard developed by ASTM International, which is included in the new mandatory one, several strollers are already meeting some of these requirements. To alleviate confusion, Bengt Lager, coowner of Regal Lager, distributor of Cybex, encourages retailers to look for and only buy products that carry the JPMA Certification seal. “It incorporates all safety standards that are required for products to be sold in the U.S.,

not just at a federal level but also at a state level,” he explains. “It’s pretty much a one-stop-shop.” JPMA’s Mariotti echoes this sentiment, adding that it also incorporates many of the specific standards that individual retailers may have and that all products have to be tested annually. “It’s a double check for the manufacturer, to show the world that the product is safe, and it gives the retailer the confidence to know the product has met all the standards that are out there,” she says. When it comes to passing on the safety messages to consumers, start by making sure that each member of your floor staff knows the ins and outs of every stroller. “Provide that very powerful point-of-purchase message about good practices, the use of the harness system, not leaving your child unattended, etc. And have a good demonstration in store for first-time parents,” Vallese suggests. Fleming of the CPSC agrees, noting that the perfect time to educate expectant parents is when they first come into your store to set up a baby registry. “At the end of the day, we’re all in the business of keeping the baby safe,” she says. •

140

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stargazing

What the A-list love at… Pink Olive, Manhattan and Brooklyn, NY

With three equally adorable storefronts, Pink Olive is chock-full of charming treasures for young and old. By Lyndsay McGregor

Jessica Alba favors trendy threads from Egg Baby by Susan Lazar for her daughter, Honor, as does Kang’s clientele.

Sarah Jessica Parker’s twins love Ban.do’s line of playful hair accessories. The brand is one of Pink Olive’s bestsellers.

Jennifer Garner’s daughters tote Jellycat’s plush animals everywhere. The cuddly toys are a hit at Pink Olive, too.

“A

s a new aunt, I always found myself searching for that gift that was unique and different,” explains Grace Kang (right), founder of Pink Olive, a three-store chain of gift boutiques in New York City. So, after 10 years working as a women’s ready-to-wear buyer for the likes of Bloomingdale’s, Barneys and Saks, she decided to follow her passion and start her own business. Initially an online emporium named after her niece’s favorite things, Kang opened a 500-square-foot store in Manhattan’s East Village in May 2007, followed by a second location in Park Slope, Brooklyn less than a year later in March 2008. “My customer comes to me looking for a unique baby shower gift but can also find something for loved ones or herself,” she says. There’s no doubt her background and keen eye have served her well: Business is booming, and she opened a third shop this April in Williamsburg. “When you have a limited amount of space, you have to edit and work together with designers who not only make great product but whose stories resonate with what you’re doing,” she says. To that end, she curates her cozy stores with an eclectic mix, spanning quirky greeting cards and cuddly stuffed animals to softly sweet clothing and hair accessories. Prices range from $5 to $450 and bestselling brands include Egg

Baby by Susan Lazar, Pink Chicken, Tane Organics and Jellycat. New York-centric gifts do well, too: a Metrocard rattle from Big Applebased Estella; taxis on a Catfish Design organic bib; a Kira Kids bodysuit emblazoned with the words “Left my binkie in Brooklyn.” “I want Pink Olive to be a platform for community, for local people to come and discover new talents and great products,” Kang adds. Community also plays a part in each location’s offering. “Depending on the neighborhood I try to tweak the mix based on the customer base,” she notes. That means more paper goods and décor in the East Village to tempt young creatives and students, and more baby stuff in Brooklyn. “Product is first and foremost the most important thing, but when that’s coupled with great branding, tags and packaging, it really rounds out the whole experience,” she says.•

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