VOLUME 100 NUMBER 4
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Reintroducing
46 years of magic in footwear
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A P R I L / M AY 2 0 1 6 Noelle Heffernan FkXb_i^[h Audrey Goodson Kingo ;Z_jeh _d 9^_[\
FEATURES 16 Staying Power 7i <[bjcWd 8hei$ Y[b[XhWj[i '&& o[Whi e\ fhel_Z_d] ceci m_j^ j_c[b[ii" ^_]^#gkWb_jo \heYai \eh j^[_h X[bel[Z XWX_[i" Fh[i_Z[dj 8[d <h_[ZcWd i^Wh[i j^[ i[Yh[j je j^[ XhWdZÊi bed][l_jo$
20 Then and Now Led CWkhÊi _d\Wdj Xko[hiÆed[ \hec '/'- WdZ ed[ \hec (&',Æh[# l[Wb j^[ i[Yh[j je j^[ Y[djkho#ebZ YecfWdoÊi WijekdZ_d] bed][l_jo$
22 A Century of Childrenswear <hec ^WdZcWZ[ Ybej^_d] je l_hjkWb l_i_edWh_[i" Earnshaw’s ^Wi WYkj[bo h[fh[i[dj[Z j^[ p[_j][_ij e\ j^[ j_c[i i_dY[ _ji _dY[fj_ed$
10 FkXb_i^[hÊi Dej[ 12 ;Z_jehÊi Dej[ 14 Ed Jh[dZ 8 >ej Fhef[hj_[i 62 8[^_dZ J^[ I[Wci 76 I^ef JWba Above: Gerber Onesies and United Legwear leg warmers. On cover: Gerber white Onesies; René Rofé blue, pink and gray one-pieces. Photography by Trevett McCandliss and Katie Belloff; hair and makeup by Christina Errante and Andrea Saavedra.
Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss 9h[Wj_l[ :_h[Yjehi ;:?JEH?7B Lauren Olsen 7iieY_Wj[ ;Z_jeh Emily Beckman 7iieY_Wj[ ;Z_jeh 7:L;HJ?I?D= Caroline Diaco =hekf FkXb_i^[h Jennifer Craig If[Y_Wb 7YYekdji CWdW][h FHE:K9J?ED Katie Belloff 7iieY_Wj[ 7hj :_h[Yjeh FheZkYj_ed CWdW][h Mike Hoff M[XcWij[h Allison Kastner Ef[hWj_edi CWdW][h Bruce Sprague 9_hYkbWj_ed :_h[Yjeh 9EDJ79J ?D<E Sales/Editorial Offices ')+ M$ (&j^ Ij$ Ik_j[ *&( D[m Oeha" DO '&&'' J[b0 ,*, (-.#'++& <Wn0 ,*, (-.#'++) WZl[hj_i_d]6/j^h[WZi$Yec [Z_jeh_Wbh[gk[iji6 /j^h[WZi$Yec Circulation Office (,(&( :[jhe_j HeWZ" )&& M[ijbWa[" E> **'*+ J[b0 **& .-'#')&& Y_hYkbWj_ed6/j^h[WZi$Yec 9EHFEH7J; /J^h[WZi (,(&( :[jhe_j HeWZ" )&& M[ijbWa[" E> **'*+ J[b0 **& .-'#')&& Xen Zapis" 9^W_hcWd Lee Zapis" Fh[i_Z[dj Rich Bongorno" 9<E Debbie Grim" 9edjhebb[h
EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 36 Cooper Square, 4th Floor, New York, NY 10003. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.
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story Forever Young
COVER
Earnshaw’s celebrates 100 years with a little help from our (smallest) friends.
AT EARNSHAW’S WE’VE discovered the fountain of youth. For 100 years our magazine has celebrated the wonder, energy, and innocence of children. From the Roaring Twenties to the Swinging Seventies to now, we’ve had a fantastic time chronicling the items little ones can’t live without, with so much more to come. The styles may have changed along the way, but kids are kids no matter the decade. And to mark our milestone, we could think of no better tribute than to feature on this month’s cover 100 delightful babies who are just starting their own fantastic journeys. A big congrats and thank you to the adorable tots, the winners of our #100years100babies Instagram contest. Many of the babies (and their intrepid parents!) traveled to New York City from as far as Los Angeles and Alabama to help us celebrate with a fun day of fashion, pampering and pictures. Behold, our cover stars...
A tiny glimpse of behind-thescenes action.
M E ET OU R M I N I M OD E LS (row 1, from left) Parker’s first word was tickle. Miles is a guitar virtuoso. Grace was born with lots of hair. Cameron smiles when he wakes up. Jay goes bananas for bananas. Max enjoys singing. Amelia loves Brussels sprouts. Abel is named after Jax Teller’s son, Abel, on Sons of Anarchy. Marley _i Wd Ê.&i ZWdY_d] gk[[d$ Lucas gets a kick out of FaceTime. Walter is already walking with a walker. Elliot can often be found belting out tunes.
(row 5, from left) ValentineÊi fWh[dji m[h[ cWhh_[Z ed <[X$ '*$ Rocco finds his happy place with music. Robert’s smile brightens dreary days. Brooke appreciates a good avocado. Joel is half South African. Shay adores being a little sister. Audrey helps Mommy manage her clothing store. Wren plays duets with Dad on her ukulele. Faire finds peace in Kelsea Ballerini songs. Maxwell’s partner in crime is his big sis. Temujin’s favorite language is Mongolian. Lola ceZ[bi \eh Cec_ 8ekj_gk[$
(row 2, from left) Liam hip-hop dances like a boss. Bailey can’t get enough of Stevie Wonder. Kayan is a talented percussionist. Ruby is one spicy pepper. Eleanora’s a staring contest champ. Kai’s a baby fashionista. Paul performs with his toy piano. Theodore is curious about everything. Alexandria’s a social butterfly. Nico gets a thrill from shouting matches with her sibling. Lyla can say her name. Michael thinks he’s the next Cristiano Ronaldo. Ennio will pay extra for guac.
(row 6, from left) Aubrey loves to eat Chinese food. Matilda doles out kisses. Vince is already a bookworm. Conan jWa[i W\j[h Fef[o[ m_j^ ^_i love for spinach. Anastasia can’t tell her dad from his twin. Mackenzie’s leYWXkbWho YedjW_di '+ mehZi Wbh[WZo$ Mason’s ideal snack is paper. Jack’s grandma is Nancy Markert of Nancy Markert & Associates. Holden loves trucks and buses. Hadley’s favorite song is Cruella De Vil. Aubrie is a ham. Khaleesi is never afraid to say “hi.”
(row 3, from left) Liv loves to drink bath water. Julius favors the Elmo Shuffle. Ariana enjoys holding hands with her twin. Aubree loves to dance. Grayson believes life is all about him. Cameron turned one at the photo shoot. Dorothy’s parents call her DottyRu. Charlotte is the original Fh_dY[ii 9^Whbejj[$ Theo’s an expert at clapping and waving. Kaiza loves peek-a-boo. JosetteÊi X[ij_[ _i W XbWYa YWj dWc[Z B[edWhZ$ Luca likes to show off his muscles. Daisy _i Wd ?h_i^ jh_fb[j$
(row 7, from left) Sienna enjoys smiling at her big brother. Penelope is a Cali girl sweetheart. Amelia loves feeling cold breezes on her face. Hudson is the world’s biggest flirt. Robert understands Spanish but he’s only saying words in English. Royal smiles for song. Milan’s name means “coming together” in Hindi. Katia likes to bop to the beat. Priyana’s BFF is a bullmastiff named Buddy. Leo thinks that coughing is funny. Kamel puts himself to sleep by getting into the downward dog position. Olivia looks up to her big brother.
(row 4, from left) Milla’s signature move is flipping backwards. Mia’s best buddy is her stuffed animal Violet. Anthony loves to clown around. Oona has cheeks for weeks. Isabella prefers her tongue outside her mouth. Xavier has six-and-a-half teeth so far. Fallon gets down to Justin Bieber. Max fancies cats. Jude likes to boogie on the reg. Mila prefers her chewing toys in her parents’ mouths. Maximus gained one pound per week for eight weeks. Charlie’s go-to indulgence is a Japanese sweet potato. Ruby maintains her own blog rubysfirstyear.tumblr.com. 8 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C 7 F H ? B % C 7 O ( & ' ,
(row 8, from left) Londyn can bust a move like no other. Jake shares the same birthday as his big sister. Ryker likes to show off his abs. Benjamin giggles every time he sees a cat. Camila loves posing for the camera. Jack loves to bust a move. Kingston finds inedible items most appetizing. Joya can replicate a rhythm perfectly. Liam loves to lift and throw things. Heidi crawls with closed fists. Milo’s favorite time is mealtime. Beatrice has a f[j Xkddo dWc[Z Fee\$ Prynceton loves to snack and smile.
FUNNY, YOU DONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;T LOOK
100! CONGRATULATIONS O N YO U R C E N T E N N I A L I S S U E !
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publisher’s letter
Dream Job A diehard fashionista from an early age, my work is a joy, helping an industry answer the call of everyone enamored with children’s fashion.
Noelle rockin’ her Jordache jeans back in the day.
CELEBRATING A MAJOR milestone has become familiar territory for me in magazine fkXb_i^_d]$ ? ^Wl[ X[[d \ehjkdWj[ [dek]^ je work at three century-old fashion trade magazines during my career, but there is something quite special about Earnshaw’s and the chilZh[dÊi WffWh[b _dZkijho$ ? ad[m _j Zkh_d] co \_hij m[[a ed j^[ `eX m^[d ? Whh_l[Z i_n o[Whi W]e$ ?j \[bj b_a[ ^ec[$ ? ^Wl[ WbmWoi bel[Z \Wi^_ed \hec W oekd] W][$ Co cej^[h m_bb d[l[h b[j c[ \eh][j j^[ j_c[ ? X[]][Z ^[h je Xko co \_hij fW_h e\ @ehZWY^[ `[Wdi$ ? mWi edbo . o[Whi ebZ" Xkj ? ^WZ i[[d j^[ WZi$ ? i_cfbo had je ^Wl[ j^[c$ Co bel[ WdZ _dj[h[ij _d \Wi^_ed edbo ]h[m \hec j^[h[$ ? \ebbem[Z Wbb j^[ bWj[ij jh[dZi" Z[lekh[Z j^[ ^ejj[ij \Wi^_ed cW]Wp_d[i WdZ iYh_cf[Z WdZ iWl[Z je cWa[ co f[hiedWb \Wi^_ed Ybei[j Wi mehbZ YbWii Wi ? YekbZ$ Ie je X[ WXb[ je i^ef j^[ cWha[j WdZ h[b_l[ W fWhj e\ co Y^_bZ^eeZ ed W d[Wh ZW_bo XWi_i b_a[ ? Ze ^Wi X[[d W dream job come true. ? Wc fhekZ je X[ W fWhj e\ W cW]Wp_d[ j^Wj continues to be the most trusted and respected le_Y[ _d ekh _dZkijho$ M^[d f[efb[ h[\[h je Earnshaw’s as the “bible of the industry” it is a moniker that our entire staff takes great ^edeh _d kf^ebZ_d]$ ?dZ[[Z" Earnshaw’s has been the go-to resource for the latest news, trends, analysis and insight regarding the Y^_bZh[dÊi WffWh[b _dZkijho \eh '&& o[Whi Dej many magazines—not many businesses of any kind—reach such a monumental milestone. ?jÊi W j[ijWc[dj je j^[ cWdo ijW\\ c[cX[hi fWij WdZ fh[i[dj \eh d[l[h bei_d] i_]^j e\ ekh mission statement to inform and inspire our h[WZ[hi i[hl_d] Wi j^[ jhkij[Z ]e#X[jm[[d \eh m^eb[iWb[hi WdZ h[jW_b[hi$ ?d j^[ Earnshaw’s debut issue, Founder George F. Earnshaw encouraged department store buyers to create the best possible infants’ department because ^[ X[b_[l[Z j^[ YWj[]eho i[hl[Z Wi W ]Wj[mWo je Wbb j^[ ej^[hi _d j^[ ijeh[$ @kij \_l[ o[Whi bWj[h" ceh[ j^Wd /"&&& Z[fWhjc[dj ijeh[ Xko[hi WdZ cWdW][hi j_c[i ^Wl[ ikh[ Y^Wd][Z m[h[ relying on Earnshaw’s each month for crucial Xki_d[ii WZl_Y[ Wi m[bb Wi Z_iYel[h_d] j^[ bWj-
[ij d[m XhWdZi _d ekh [Z_jeh_Wb WdZ WZl[hj_i_d] pages. One of the most rewarding aspects of my job _i m^[d W m^eb[iWb[ [n[Ykj_l[ fe_dji Wj j^[_h WZ or an editorial mention and says buyers “found them in Earnshaw’s$È 7d [n[Y m[ fhe\_b[Z recently told me she felt like a celebrity when numerous buyers streamed into her booth, holding the magazine and pointing to her photo. ?d j^Wj h[]WhZ" Earnshaw’s i[hl[i Wi ekh _dZkitry’s hometown newspaper. This is the setting where industry leaders as well as up-and-com[hi Wh[ ]hWdj[Z W c[Wd_d]\kb fbWj\ehc je Yedl[o their stories and discuss pertinent industry _iik[i$ M[ ]e Z[[f[h X[YWki[ m[ Wh[ l[ij[Z '&& f[hY[dj _d j^_i _dZkijho WdZ YWh[ WXekj _ji m[bb#X[_d] dem WdZ \eh[l[h$ M^[h[ [bi[ Ze[i j^_i b[l[b e\ Yecc_jc[dj WdZ [nj[dj e\ Yel[hW][ happen but in the pages of Earnshaw’s? Who else has built up a century’s worth of trust to ^Wl[ [Whd[Z j^Wj beoWb h[WZ[hi^_f5 J^[ Wdim[h is no one. The fact is Earnshaw’s has published ceh[ j^Wd '"&&& _iik[i je ZWj[" WdZ j^[ dkcX[h e\ Xki_d[ii[i j^Wj ^Wl[ X[[d ]_l[d j^[_h ijWhj eh" in some instances, re-starts, due to appearing in the pages of this magazine is far, far greater. Ie Wi m[ [W][hbo [cXWha ed j^[ d[nj '&& o[Whi e\ Yel[h_d] j^[ Y^_bZh[dÊi WffWh[b _dZkijho" ekh ijW\\ m_bb Yedj_dk[ je Z[b_l[h j^[ ceij Yecf[bb_d]" _d\ehcWj_l[ WdZ Yh[Wj_l[ Yedj[dj feii_Xb[ in our trusted print format as well as across lWh_eki Z_]_jWb Y^Wdd[bi$ De cWjj[h j^[ c[Z_kc" our mission remains the same: to be the go-to resource on all things children’s apparel-related. Along those lines, we welcome your thoughts WdZ ik]][ij_edi Wi m[ Wh[ ^[h[ je i[hl[ oek$ M[ are in this together and with your input, we can make Earnshaw’s [l[d X[jj[h$ BWijbo" ? Yedi_Z[h _j Wd ^edeh WdZ W fh_l_b[][ je i[hl[ ekh _dZkijho WdZ meha m_j^ j^[ cWdo jWb[dj[Z WdZ Yh[Wj_l[ f[efb[Æj^[ XhWdZ [n[Ykj_l[i" iWb[i h[fi" jhWZ[ i^em Z_h[Yjehi WdZ h[jW_bers—who bring our industry to life. Thank you \eh jhkij_d] WdZ _dl[ij_d] _d Earnshaw’s, the “bible of the industry” and making my dream job come true.
NOELLE HEFFERNAN
noelle.heffernan@9threads.com
1 0 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C 7 F H ? B % C 7 O ( & ' ,
editor’s note OVER THE PAST \[m cedj^i ?Êl[ ^WZ j^[ fh_l_b[][ e\ ^ebZ_d] ^_ijeho _d co ^WdZi Wi m[Êl[ j_h[b[iibo YecX[Z j^hek]^ W '"&&&#fbki _iik[i e\ Earnshaw’s WhY^_l[i je Yh[# Wj[ j^_i l[ho if[Y_Wb 9[dj[dd_Wb 9[b[XhWj_ed _iik[$ ?jÊi jhkbo Wm[#_dif_h_d] je ^ebZ W \WZ[Z Yefo e\ Earnshaw’s \hec '/))" fkXb_i^[Z Zkh_d] j^[ ^[Whj e\ j^[ =h[Wj :[fh[ii_ed" WdZ _cW]_d[ j^[ fbkYa WdZ f[hi[l[h# WdY[ _j ckij ^Wl[ jWa[d \eh W Y^_bZh[dim[Wh cWdk\WY# jkh[h je ikhl_l[ Zkh_d] j^ei[ ZWha ZWoi$ ? \ekdZ coi[b\ =ee]b_d] j^[ h[jW_b[hi WdZ [n[Ykj_l[i gkej[Z j^hek]^ekj j^[ o[Whi" [if[Y_Wbbo j^ei[ m^ei[ f^ejei m[h[ _dYbkZ[Z X[YWki[ j^[o m[h[ ^[WZ[Z e\\ je \_]^j _d MM??$ JWba WXekj f[hif[Yj_l[0 J^[ [hWÊi \WXh_Y i^ehjW][i WdZ fh_Y[ h[ijh_Y# j_edi cWa[ cWdW]_d] oekh XhWdZÊi ?dijW]hWc WYYekdj beea b_a[ Y^_bZÊi fbWo" Wffhefh_Wj[bo [dek]^$ M^e ademi _\ j^[o Wbb h[jkhd[Z ^ec[ iW\[bo5 7j j^[ l[ho b[Wij" j^[_h Yedjh_Xkj_ed je ekh _dZkijho Wh[ \eh# [l[h cWha[Z _d j^[ fW][i e\ Earnshaw’s. ?jÊi Wd _cfehjWdj fe_dj je dej[ X[YWki[ _jÊi de i[Yh[j j^Wj j^[ Y^_bZh[dÊi _dZkijho _i ]e_d] j^hek]^ jkckbjkeki j_c[i e\ bWj[$ J^[ h_i[ e\ j^[ edb_d[ i^eff_d] WdZ ieY_Wb c[Z_W ^Wi Yh[Wj[Z Wdo dkcX[h e\ Yecfb_YWj_edi \eh cWd# k\WYjkh[hi" h[jW_b[hi" iWb[i h[fi WdZ jhWZ[ i^em [n^_X_jehi Wb_a[$ 7dZ m^_b[ _j cWo i[[c b_a[ j^[i[ Y^Wd][i if[bb j^[ [dZ e\ ekh _dZkijho Wi m[ ^Wl[ Yec[ je adem _j" j^[ WhY^_l[i e\ '&& o[Whi e\ Earnshaw’s j[bb gk_j[ W Z_\\[h[dj jWb[$ ?d \WYj" j^[ ceh[ ? h[i[WhY^[Z ekh XWYa _iik[i" j^[ ceh[ ? h[Wb_p[Z j^Wj jeZWoÊi _dZkijho _i WYjkWbbo gk_j[ i_c# _bWh je [Whb_[h f[h_eZi$ :[fh[ii_edi" h[Y[ii_edi" mWhi" j^[ h_i[ e\ YWj[]eho#a_bb_d] h[jW_b \ehcWji¾J^[ ceh[ j^_d]i Y^Wd][" j^[ ceh[ j^[o ijWo j^[ iWc[$ ?jÊi W Yb_Y^ \eh W h[Wied$ D[[Z fhee\5 >[h[ Wh[ `kij W \[m f_[Y[i e\ WZl_Y[ ? YWc[ WYheii _d j^[ fW][i e\ Earnshaw’s j^Wj h_d] Wi jhk[ jeZWo Wi m^[d j^[o \_hij Wff[Wh[Z _d fh_dj$
Forward March A century of children’s wear coverage proves that our industry has survived several revolutions, with fortune favoring the boldest and most tenacious of fighters.
Make Mama Happy: M^_b[ _jÊi j[cfj_d] je j^_da j^Wj m[ b_l[ [nY[fj_edWbbo ^Whh_[Z b_l[i" Earnshaw’s fhel_Z[i W j[bb_d] h[c_dZ[h j^Wj ceci ^Wl[ WbmWoi X[[d ckbj_# jWia_d]$ ?d \WYj" j^[ Y^_bZh[dÊi WffWh[b _dZkijho mWi Xehd _d j^[ [Whbo '/&&i X[YWki[ j^[ [hWÊi ceci h[Wb_p[Z j^[o YekbZ fkhY^Wi[ h[WZo#je#m[Wh ]Whc[dji _d b_[k e\ i[m_d] WdZ ij_jY^_d] Wd [dj_h[ bWo[jj[ Yebb[Yj_ed$ ?d ekh <[XhkWho '/*( _iik[" Wd WZ ^[hWbZ[Z Ç]h_ff[h \Wi# j[d[hiÈÆj^[ fh[Ykhieh je idWfiÆWi _Z[Wb \eh mec[d m_j^ Çde j_c[ \eh Xkjjed#Xej^[h_d]$È 7i j^[ WZ dej[i" ÇCej^[hi demWZWoi Wh[ if[dZ_d] j^[_h ifWh[ c_dkj[i Wj H[Z 9heii c[[j_d]i" ad_jj_d] \eh j^[ Xeoi WdZ j^[ i[h# l_Y[ QWdZS Ze_d] lebkdj[[h meha$È <Wij#\ehmWhZ je '/,&
WdZ j^[ Z[YWZ[Êi d[m [Wio#YWh[ ad_ji m[h[ _Z[Wb i_dY[" ÇJeZWoÊi oekd] cej^[h Ze[i ceh[ j^Wd mWi^ WdZ _hed WdZ Yeea¾ I^[Êi Xkio mehho_d] WXekj j^[ Yecc_jj[[ je XWd_i^ X[WY^ b_jj[h" jWa_d] Yekhi[i _d fejj[ho eh mWj[h ia__d]$È J^[ ]_ij5 CWa[ ceciÊ b_l[i [Wi_[h" WdZ oekÊbb cWa[ ced[o$ Make Shopping Easier: J^hek]^ekj j^[ o[Whi" Earnshaw’s ^Wi [dYekhW][Z h[jW_b[hi je cWa[ i^eff_d] [Wio \eh cecÆ\hec ^eij_d] [ZkYWj_edWb i[c_dWhi ed XWXo ^o]_[d[ _d j^[ [Whbo '/&&i je Yh[Wj_d] W i[Wcb[ii ecd_Y^Wdd[b [nf[h_[dY[ _d (&'+$ <eh W f[h\[Yj [nWcfb[" Y^[Ya ekh j^_i cedj^Êi Ed j^[ 8beYa fhe\_b[ m_j^ 7cWdZW :[=hWl[" :CC e\ XeoiÊ WdZ _d\WdjiÊ Wj Led CWkh$ J^[ C_Zm[ij#XWi[Z Z[fWhjc[dj ijeh[ Y^W_d ^Wi X[[d fhe# l_Z_d] W Yec\ehjWXb[ Wjceif^[h[ \eh ceci i_dY[ _j mWi \ekdZ[Z _d '.-($ Ringing Up Sales: ?\ oek j^_da [#Yecc[hY[ _i _dj_c_# ZWj_d]" _cW]_d[ ^em h[jW_b[hi _d j^[ [Whbo '/&&i ckij ^Wl[ \[bj m^[d j^[o ijWhj[Z jWa_d] ehZ[hi Xo W ijhWd][ d[m jWba_d] Xen ademd Wi j^[ j[b[f^ed[$ Ed[ e\ Earnshaw’s [Whb_[ij \[Wjkh[i" _d \WYj" mWi W ^em#je ed ki_d] j^[ Z[l_Y[ je Xeeij iWb[i$ J^hek]^ j^[ o[Whi" m[ ^Wl[ Yedj_dk[Z je fhel_Z[ ^_]^#gkWb_jo i[hl_Y[ `ekh# dWb_ic ed [l[hoj^_d] \hec hWZ_e WdZ JL je Yecfkj[hi WdZ dem ieY_Wb c[Z_W$ ?d j^[ mWa[ e\ [WY^ j[Y^debe]_# YWb h[lebkj_ed" Earnshaw’s [dYekhW][Z h[jW_b[hi dej je X[ _dj_c_ZWj[Z" Xkj je ki[ j^[ d[m c[Z_kc je j^[_h WZlWdjW][$ 8[YWki[ ^em cec i^efi ^Wi WdZ m_bb Yed# j_dk[ je Y^Wd][" Xkj Wd WZehWXb[ \heYa \eh ^[h X[bel[Z b_jjb[ ed[ h[cW_di Wd _hh[i_ij_Xb[ j[cfjWj_ed `kij Wi j^[ d[[Z \eh Wd [dj_h[ d[m mWhZheX[ÆX[YWki[ a_Zi ][j X_]# ][hÆ d[l[h ]e[i WmWo$ Kdb_a[ ej^[h _dZkijh_[i m^[h[ W cWha[j Z_[i ekj j^_da j^[ l_Z[e h[djWb ijeh[ X[YWki[ d[m j[Y^debe]_[i cWa[ j^[c eXieb[j[ j^_da ijh[Wc_d] Z[l_Y[i " ed[ e\ j^[ X[Wk# j_[i e\ j^[ Y^_bZh[dÊi WffWh[b _dZkijho _i _ji h[fb[d_i^c[dj e\ c_bb_edi e\ d[m Ykijec[hi [l[ho o[Wh m^e Wh[ WbmWoi _d d[[Z WdZ mWdj e\ d[m Ybej^[i$ Ie m^_b[ j^[ XWjjb[ je Yecf[j[" ikhl_l[ WdZ j^h_l[ hW][i ed i[Wied W\j[h i[W# ied h[ikbj_d] _d W \W_h i^Wh[ e\ YWikWbj_[i ed Xej^ j^[ m^eb[iWb[ WdZ h[jW_b \hedji " Wj b[Wij m[ YWd jWa[ Yec\ehj _d adem_d] j^Wj W d[m Yhef e\ Ykijec[hi m_bb X[ Yec_d] _dje j^[ \ebZ$ J^[ Earnshaw’s WhY^_l[i fhel[ [nWYjbo j^Wj0 <Wi^_edi Y^Wd][" \_[bZ ][d[hWbi Yec[ WdZ ]e WdZ _dZkijho \bWi^fe_dji Wh[ _]d_j[Z WdZ idk\\[Z ekj$ 8kj ekh X[bel[Z _dZkijho Wi W m^eb[ b_l[i ed je \_]^j Wdej^[h ZWo$
AUDREY GOODSON KINGO
audrey.kingo@9threads.com
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www.KissyKissyOnline.com
OnTrend Tiny Whales long-sleeve tee
Little Miss Twin Stars bracelet
YporquĂŠ t-shirt
Pink Chicken long-sleeve dress
Charabia dress
Little Me sticker set The Spunky Stork one-piece
14
Smiling Button dress
3 Marthas crown
Bari Lynn tutu one-piece Chaser Kids sleeveless tee
Party On
From enjoying a sweet treat with friends to rocking out like a true party animal, celebration doesn’t come with a rulebook. On that account, in honoring our 100-year milestone, you bet we aren’t holding back—and neither should you. Join us in celebrating some of life’s biggest little achievements with everything from colors to confetti. So, don’t be afraid to indulge in more than one cupcake. And as for balloons, don’t just hold them— wear them! Whether you’re celebrating one month or one hundred years, everyone deserves a crown. —Emily Beckman
Mud Pie tie
Q& A
As Feltman Bros. celebrates 100 years of providing moms with timeless, high-quality frocks for their beloved babies, President Ben Friedman shares the secret to the brand’s astounding longevity. By Audrey Goodson Kingo
Staying Power
I
N A FASHION world obsessed with “fast” and “new” and “emerging,” it’s rare to find a company that wholeheartedly embraces the past. But for children’s apparel mainstay Feltman 8hej^[hi ?dY$" m^_Y^ Y[b[XhWj[i _ji '&&j^ Wdd_l[hiWho j^_i o[Wh" l[d[hWj_d] j^[ fWij _idÊj `kij WXekj cWha_d] W cW`eh c_b[ijed[Æ_jÊi Wbie a[o je \kjkh[ ]hemj^$ Fhel_d] j^Wj iec[ j^_d]i d[l[h Y^Wd][ÆWdZ j^WjÊi W ]eeZ thing—the company’s timeless apparel has resonated with ceci WdZ ]_\j#]_l[hi Wb_a[ i_dY[ j^[ YecfWdoÊi \ekdZ_d] _d '/',$ ?d \WYj" j^Wdai je i[l[hWb eh_]_dWb Z[i_]di j^[ YecfWdo h[b[Wi[Z _d ^edeh e\ _ji X_] X_hj^ZWo" <[bjcWd e\\[hi ceci j^[ l[ho iWc[ Yh[[f[hi WdZ jWa[#c[#^ec[ ]emdi j^[_h ]h[Wj#]h[Wj#]hWdZcej^[hi fkhY^Wi[Z '&& o[Whi W]e$ JeZWo" j^[ XhWdZ _i WlW_bWXb[ _d ,*/ Xekj_gk[i and department stores nationwide. For Ben Friedman, the company’s current president, the secret to j^Wj d[Wh#kdh_lWb[Z bed][l_jo b_[i _d ed[ i_cfb[ \WYjeh0 gkWb_jo$ <[bjcWd 8hej^[hi ]Whc[dji Wh[ fWii[Z Zemd \hec ][d[hWj_ed je ][d[hWj_ed$ J^Wj gkWb_jo" ^[ dej[i" _i Zk[ bWh][bo je j^[ \WYj j^Wj j^[ ]Whc[dji Wh[ ij_bb cWdk\WYjkh[Z _d j^[ F^_b_ff_d[i" `kij Wi j^[o m[h[ _d j^[ l[ho X[]_dd_d]$ :[jW_bi b_a[ iceYa_d] Wh[ ij_bb Zed[ Xo ^WdZ$ :[if_j[ j^[ _dZkijhoÊi i^_\j je 9^_dW Wi W cWdk\WYjkh_d] ^kX" <h_[ZcWd mWi d[l[h WXb[ je \_dZ W \WYjeho j^Wj YekbZ h[fb_YWj[ j^[ gkWb_jo e\ j^ei[ ^WdZcWZ[ jekY^[i$ ;l[d j^[ YecfWdoÊi X_]][ij Z[l_Wj_ed \hec _ji Yeh[ e\\[h_d]iÆW F_cW Yejjed Yebb[Yj_ed h[b[Wi[Z bWij o[WhÆ_i cWZ[ dej _d 9^_dW" Xkj _d F[hk m^_Y^ <h_[ZcWd Wfjbo ZkXi Çj^[ a_d] e\ F_cWÈ $ Feltman’s entire history, in fact, is a lesson in staying the course. First YWc[ j^[ YecfWdoÊi ^[oZWo _d j^[ [Whbo (&j^ Y[djkho$ Ç8o j^[ bWj[ jm[dj_[i" \_d[ _d\WdjiÊ m[Wh \hec j^[ F^_b_ff_d[i ^WZ X[Yec[ ceij fefkbWh$
1 6 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C 7 F H ? B % C 7 O ( & ' ,
Feltman’s designs are still made by hand, just like in the company’s early days.
Feltman Brothers was the most outstanding firm importing the finest baby dresses and other items in the field,” said Earnshaw’s FkXb_i^[h MWbj[h J$ >kZied _d Wd [Z_jeh_Wb _d j^[ cW]Wp_d[Êi +&j^ Wdd_l[hiWho _iik[$ >em[l[h" j^[ =h[Wj :[fh[ii_ed WdZ MM?? fh[i[dj[Z W X_] Y^Wblenge to the growing company (as to all manufacturers and merchants Wj j^[ j_c[ $ ?d \WYj" j^[ XhWdZÊi WZi _d j^[ '/*( _iik[ e\ Earnshaw’s encouraged its fellow manufacturers and retailers to purchase war bonds and support the war effort. But no matter the challenge, the company h[cW_d[Z Yecc_jj[Z je e\\[h_d] j_c[b[ii" ^_]^#gkWb_jo WffWh[b$ M^[d j^[ <[bjcWd \Wc_bo iebZ j^[ YecfWdo _d '/.," j^[o cWZ[ sure to select someone who appreciated that rich history, and would Yedj_dk[ cWdk\WYjkh_d] j^[ WffWh[b _d j^[ F^_b_ff_d[i$ <h_[ZcWdÊi \Wj^[h B[efeb[ <h_[ZcWd" m^e Wbie cWdk\WYjkh[Z Y^_bZh[dÊi WffWh[b _d j^[ F^_b_ff_d[i Wj j^[ j_c[ WdZ ^WZ [nj[di_l[ [nf[h_[dY[ _d j^[ d_Y^[ mehbZ e\ iceYa_d] WdZ [cXhe_Z[ho" mWi W f[h\[Yj \_j$ >_i ied 8[d _i dem Wj j^[ ^[bc$ 7i _j beeai je j^[ \kjkh[" j^[h[ Wh[ i[l[hWb cWha[j \WYjehi meha_d] _d <[bjcWdÊi \Wleh$ FWh[dji jeZWo i[[a Wkj^[dj_Y_jo _d j^[_h fkhY^Wi[i" and the company’s collection of Christening gowns, rompers, bubbles, XeZoik_ji" Xeej_[i" Xedd[ji WdZ XbWda[jiÆe\\[h[Z _d Wd kX[h#jhWZ_j_edWb fWb[jj[ e\ m^_j[" fWij[b f_da WdZ Xbk[ÆWh[ Wi l_djW][ Wi _j ][ji$ 7dZ" e\ Yekhi[" Wi Wdo \Wi^_ed \eh[YWij[h m_bb j[bb oek" l_djW][ _i _d$ Ç7j <[bjcWd" m[ X[b_[l[ j^Wj XWX_[i i^ekbZ X[ Zh[ii[Z b_a[ XWX_[i _d ie\j Yebehi WdZ ijob[i$ Ekh Ykijec[hi ^Wl[ h[cW_d[Z beoWb je ki WdZ `kij mWdj ki je a[[f Ze_d] m^Wj m[ Wh[ Ze_d] WdZ WZZ_d] ceh[ ijob[i je ekh b_d["È Friedman says. 8kj `kij X[YWki[ <[bjcWd Y[b[XhWj[i beea_d] XWYaÆ [if[Y_Wbbo j^_i o[WhÆZe[idÊj c[Wd _jÊi dej Wbie beea_d] \ehmWhZ$ J^[ YecfWdo kfZWj[Z
_ji m[Xi_j[ _d (&'* WdZ h[Y[djbo h[lWcf[Z _ji be]e$ ÇEkh be]e WdZ Z[i_]d _dif_hWj_ed c_c_Y ekh Ybej^_d] WdZ XhWdZ ijob[$ M[ mWdj[Z je ij_Ya m_j^ ekh l_djW][ YbWii_Y beea WdZ Yebehi Xkj WZZ W X_j e\ ceZ[hd a_Ya je _j"È <h_[ZcWd [nfbW_di$ 7dZ j^[ YecfWdo _i Ykhh[djbo cWa_d] W X_] fki^ je Yedd[Yj m_j^ C_bb[dd_Wb ceci ed i_j[i b_a[ <WY[Xeea WdZ ?dijW]hWc$ J^[ l_ikWb dWjkh[ e\ ieY_Wb c[Z_W i_j[i i^ekbZ X[ W Xeed \eh j^[ XhWdZ" i_dY[" <h_[ZcWd dej[i" j^[ XhWdZÊi X[iji[bb_d] ib_f Zh[ii[i WdZ XeoiÊ 8eXX_[ ik_ji ÇWh[ W f^eje]hWf^[hi Zh[Wc$È Eh" Wi ^[ dej[i" ÇIjob[i b_a[ j^_i ij_Ya WhekdZ \eh[l[hÆb_j[hWbbo È
[l[hoed[ h[Wb_p[Z 9^_dW YWd Ze Wbceij [l[hoj^_d] X[jj[h \eh Y^[Wf[h$ 7dZ f[efb[ ijeff[Z Xko_d] ekh XhWdZ X[YWki[ _j mWi jee [nf[di_l[Æ[nY[fj \eh j^[ Z_[#^WhZi m^e h[Wbbo kdZ[hijeeZ m^Wj ekh XhWdZ mWi WXekj$ 9^_dW YWdÊj Ze m^Wj m[ YWd Ze$ 7dZ j^[h[Êi W h[Wied \eh _j$ J^[o YWd c_c_Y Wbceij Wdoj^_d] m_j^ j^[_h cWY^_d[i WdZ d[m j[Y^debe]o" Xkj ^WdZ [cXhe_Z[ho YWddej X[ c_c_Ya[Z$ ? m[dj Zemd je 9^_dW WXekj \ekh o[Whi W]e$ ? jeea ekh fheZkYj [l[hom^[h[ WdZ Wia[Z" É9Wd oek cWa[ j^_i \eh c[5 9Wd oek c_c_Y j^_i _d oekh cWY^_d[i5Ê J^[o Z_ZdÊj [l[d jho je Ze _j ed j^[ cWY^_d[i1 j^[o `kij iW_Z" ÇDe" ekh cWY^_d[i YWdÊj Ze Wdoj^_d] b_a[ j^_i$È 7dZ ekh beoWb Ykijec[hiÆ[if[Y_Wbbo _d j^[ Iekj^ÆkdZ[hijWdZ j^Wj$ Q?\ m[ X[]Wd cWdk\WYjkh_d] _d 9^_dWS j^[o mekbZ iWo" ÉJ^_i _i dej <[bjcWd$Ê <eh `[hi[o" `[Wdi WdZ fh_dji" oek ]e je 9^_dW$ <eh ^WdZ [cXhe_Z[h[Z if[Y_Wbjo _j[ci j^Wj bWij \eh ][d[hWj_edi" oekÊh[ dej ][jj_d] j^Wj _d 9^_dW$ Dem m[ `kij ^Wl[ je ][j j^Wj c[iiW][ ekj je j^[ f[efb[ WdZ cWa[ ikh[ [l[hoed[ kdZ[hijWdZi$
How did your father get started in childrenswear and eventually purchase the brand from the Feltman family? >[ ijWhj[Z ekj cWdk\WYjkh_d] Y^_bZh[dim[Wh _d ?ihW[b" Fehjk]Wb" IfW_d WdZ =h[[Y[$ 7i W a_Z" ? h[c[cX[h jhWl[b_d] Wbb el[h j^[ mehbZ je ^_i cWdk\WYjkh_d] fbWdji el[hi[Wi$ ?d j^[ Ê-&i WdZ Ê.&i" ^[ ]ej _dje f_Yjkh[ iceYa_d] WdZ ^WdZ [cXhe_Z[ho" WdZ _j X[YWc[ ^_i d_Y^[$ >[ h[Wb_p[Z ^[ ^WZ je ]e je j^[ F^_b_ff_d[i je ][j j^[ gkWb_jo ^[ mWi beea_d] \eh" WdZ j^WjÊi m^[d ^[ c[j kf m_j^ j^[ <[bjcWdi$ >[ meha[Z _d j^[ F^_b_ff_d[i \eh '+ o[Whi X[\eh[ ^[ Xek]^j <[bjcWd$ I_dY[ _j mWi W \Wc_bo jhWZ_j_ed" j^[ <[bjcWdi Z_ZdÊj mWdj je i[bb j^[ YecfWdo je `kij Wdoed[$ Co ZWZ mWi W h[if[Yj[Z f[hied _d j^[ _dZkijho" WdZ j^[o ad[m ^[ mekbZ YWhho ed j^[ b[]WYo$ J^WjÊi m^o j^[o Wia[Z ^_c$ J^[o Z_ZdÊj [l[d i[bb _j \eh W X_] fhe\_j$ Why is it important that the brand is still made in the Philippines? M[ Wh[ fhekZ je ij_bb X[ cWdk\WYjkh_d] _d j^[ F^_b_ff_d[i$ J^[ YekdjhoÊi ]Whc[dj _dZkijho _i \Wceki \eh _ji Wjj[dj_ed je detail and dedication to proZkY_d] ^_]^#gkWb_jo ]Whc[dji$ CWdo e\ j^[ ijob[i m[ Z[i_]d ij_bb _dYehfehWj[ ^WdZYhW\j_d]" W ia_bb j^Wj _i fWii[Z Zemd \hec cej^[h je ZWk]^j[h el[h ][d[hWj_edi$ M[ ^Wl[ W \WYjeho _d CWaWj_ 9_jo" CWd_bW WdZ _d j^[ fhel_Z[dY[ _d 8WYebeZ$ J^[ \WYjeh_[i ^Wl[ cel[Z W \[m j_c[i el[h j^[ fWij Y[djkho" WdZ kfZWj[Z m_j^ j^[ j_c[i WdZ [Yedeco" Xkj m[ ij_bb _d\ki[ j^[ fWii_ed \hec o[ij[ho[Wh _d ekh Z[i_]d WdZ gkWb_jo Yedjheb$ That’s fascinating—and a big point of difference for Feltman— since most childrenswear is now made in China. M[ m[dj j^hek]^ j_c[i m^[h[ j^[ ^WdZ [cXhe_Z[ho _dZkijho beij ]hekdZ je 9^_dW$ M^[d 9^_dW YWc[ _dje fbWo (& o[Whi W]e" Wbb e\ j^[ ikZZ[d
From top One of the company’s early factories in the Philippines; The company capitalized on holiday sales in this 1930s ad; A closer view of the smocking that Feltman is famous for.
How do you plan to get that message out? M[ ^Wl[ X[Yec[ [njh[c[bo WYj_l[ ed ieY_Wb c[Z_W WdZ ed j^[ M[X$ M[ ^Wl[ el[h )&"&&& \ebbem[hi ed <WY[Xeea WdZ '."&&& ed ?dijW]hWc$ J^_i ]_l[i ki Wd effehjkd_jo je ^[Wh Z_h[Yjbo \hec ekh Ykijec[hi" m^_Y^ _i ^[bf_d] ki [nfWdZ ekh b_d[i WdZ Xh_d] ekh Ykijec[hi ceh[ fheZkYji j^[o b_a[ WdZ d[[Z$ ?d WZZ_j_ed" m[ Yecckd_YWj[ je ekh Yecckd_jo j^hek]^ ekh Xbe]" d[mib[jj[hi WdZ [cW_b XbWiji$
Is that dialogue with your customers important? Ikh[$ Ed ieY_Wb c[Z_W m[ ^[Wh \hec ekh Ykijec[hi Wbb j^[ j_c[ ^em j^_d]i Wh[ fWii[Z \hec ][d[hWj_ed" WXekj ^em ekh Ybej^_d] X[Yec[i W a[[fiWa[$ J^WjÊi dej [l[d ]eeZ \eh ekh Xki_d[iiÆm[ mWdj oek je Xko d[m ijk\\ QlaughsS 8kj j^WjÊi ekh if[Y_Wbjo" WdZ j^WjÊi m^Wj m[ fh_Z[ ekhi[bl[i ed$ ?jÊi Wd ^edeh j^Wj m[Êh[ W \Wc_bo jhWZ_j_ed$ Iec[ f[efb[ ^Wl[ _j ^WdZ [cXhe_Z[h[Z [l[ho j_c[ _jÊi mehd Xo W Z_\\[h[dj \Wc_bo c[cX[h$ M[Êl[ X[[d jebZ Xo ed[ Ykijec[h j^Wj i^[ ^Wi W Zh[ii j^WjÊi X[[d _d j^[ \Wc_bo \eh -& o[Whi" mehd Xo '' f[efb[$ J^WjÊi dej `kij W Zh[ii$ J^WjÊi W jhWZ_j_ed$ M[Êh[ jho_d] je ][j j^Wj c[iiW][ ekj je j^[ d[m C_bb[dd_Wb ceci" m^e ZedÊj WbmWoi kdZ[hijWdZ j^Wj _Z[W" kdb[ii j^[_h cej^[h eh ]hWdZcej^[h [nfbW_di _j je j^[c$ ( & ' , 7 F H ? B % C 7O ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C 1 7
Q& A Speaking of Millennial moms, do you think a timeless, high-quality brand still resonates with them, given that we now live in a fast-fashion era? Yes. Although we are living in a fast-paced, high-tech world, when a baby is born it slows us all down and puts our perspectives in place. Our brand exemplifies words associated with the calming and powerful effect of a newborn baby—words like special, soft, precious and meaningful. It’s etched across all of our designs. This is something that always is and will always be relevant! So what’s the secret to 100 years of success? Customers! Every mom still wants that one piece that makes her baby shine, and to cherish special moments—something every child and mom deserves. Our brand also needs special attention from our manufacturers, and we work closely and loyally with our factories. And importantly, our sales reps have been an integral part of our brand; they all cherish the line.
So many brands today overlook the importance of seasoned sales reps. We have sales reps who have been with us 30 years, and they do the old-fashioned thing—and that’s what’s coming back and giving us success—and take a person-to-person approach to business. Today everyone just talks to the machines. Everything is done through email. But we’ve got our reps making phone calls. We’ve got road reps schlepping the stuff in the car, pulling it out and packing it back up. That’s almost extinct today. Customer service is a bit of a lost art, too. We’re very personable; our staff often spends 15 minutes with an online customer, who wants to chat about the past and how they love the dresses. We give them time. That’s what they love about us. They want to tell their story and we’re happy to listen. What inspired you to revamp the Feltman website, and add e-commerce?
America has so many remote areas where you have to travel 40 or 50 miles [to the nearest store], particularly in the South. (We’re trying to get to the West and Northeast and we are reaching more customers, but our bread and butter customers are in the South.) People are looking for us and they can’t find us because they don’t want to get into a car and travel 50 miles to a boutique store. And even when they get there, how many items can a boutique carry from our line? Customers are looking for variety. We decided to launch a website as a way to help our customers, but at the same time we don’t want to take away from our boutiques. We promote them on Instagram. All of our new styles go to our stores first and then we sell them online. We’re doing everything we can to keep the boutiques alive. We do not want to cut them out of the picture. Since Feltman is known for timeless designs, how do you keep the product feeling fresh? We have some products in our line that are 15 to
20 years old. We can’t take them out, especially after I look at the sales numbers. Those styles are often a family tradition. At the same time, some styles we revamp to give a fresh look. We’ve also launched new categories, like our Peruvian Pima cotton collection, and we’ve brought back old Feltman categories, too. We have about 150 patterns from when we bought the company. We often go through them for inspiration. In honor of the 100th anniversary, we’re now offering Feltman’s original diaper sets and take-me-home gowns, which we modernized by replacing the drawstring on the bottom with elastic [for safety]. We’re also introducing a couple of new colors, to entice the Millennial mom. We introduced a new color, navy, as well which is shocking for us [laughs].
In the 1940s, Feltman supported the war effort by encouraging colleagues to buy savings bonds.
Tell me more about the Pima collection. That’s a totally new area for Feltman. What was the inspiration? We wanted to give diversity to our company, and we know the new Millennial mom is looking for
that soft cotton for her kids. However, the collection’s colors match our traditional Feltman cotton, and the line offers smocking. We’re not here just to throw a new line out there; we made sure it complements our brand. And since we’re a high-end company, we’re not going to China. We don’t want to disappoint our customer base. They’re looking for quality, and Pima cotton is the softest cotton around. The collection is manufactured in Peru, the king of Pima. How are you celebrating the company’s 100th anniversary? We’re going to introduce a Feltman doll this year in honor of the 100th year. It’s going to be a collector’s item—we’re selling only a certain amount of dolls. We’ve mimicked two of our best dresses, the doll is going to be wearing either one of them, so the daughter can match the doll. And the clothing is going to be hand embroidered just like our regular clothing. That’s in addition to our new styles in honor of the anniversary—and that’s plenty.
[ON THE BLOCK] A postcard depicting the Von Maur department store, circa 1914.
Then and Now
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Von Maur’s infant buyers—one from 1917 and one from 2016—reveal the secret to the centuryold company’s astounding longevity. BY AU D R E Y G O O D S O N K I N G O
HE YEAR WAS 1917. President Woodrow Wilson had declared war on Germany, and the U.S. entered WWI. The first commercial jazz recording, “Livery Stable Blues” was released. For retailers, the telephone was a nifty new device for taking orders, and wool goods—needed for the troops abroad—were hard to find. But that didn’t stop the era’s intrepid department store buyers from doing their best to boost their store’s business. One example? Ady L. Collins, the infants’ wear buyer for Harned & Von Maur in Davenport, IA. In December of that year, she published an article in Earnshaw’s (then, The Infants’ Department) on “Making the Infants’ Department Attractive to the Children,” filled with plum pieces of advice that still resonate today. Most importantly, Collins noted that the rule for every department store should be to make shopping “as easy and pleasant as possible,” especially for mothers. “The woman who shops hurriedly buys little, but if you make her comfortable and relieve her of the care of the little one 2 0 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C 7 F H ? B % C 7 O ( & ' ,
who so often accompanies her she not only appreciates the courtesy but, having purchased the two or three little articles she came for, will examine other goods you bring to her attention and will often buy several times the amount she would have purchased if she had been obliged to divide her attention between the goods and her child,” she explained. In sum? Shopping should be fun for mom, too. It’s a philosophy that still rings true today at Von Maur. The company dates back to 1872, and though the ownership has changed throughout its century-plus history (thus the Harned in its name in 1917), one thing has remained the same: A member of the von Maur family has always been at the helm. Now in its fourth generation of family ownership, and with 31 stores scattered across 14 states, the company retains the same commitment to customer service that Collins and her colleagues exemplified at that first Davenport department store. Don’t take our word for it. Read on to learn how Collins’ current counterpart, Amanda DeGrave, Von Maur’s divisional merchandise manager of boys’ and infants’, pays homage to the company’s pioneers by continuing the customer-focused service that made the department store chain a nationwide success.
Are there any children’s categories that Von Maur has offered since the beginning? It’s funny because what popped into my head was clearly our dress assortment. It’s something that really sets us apart from a lot of other retailers. But Jim reminded me that back when we first opened our doors, a lot of people made their own clothing, so our early childrenswear department just sold bolts of fabric. That’s so true! It’s been really fun researching this issue because I learned so much about the history of department stores. For example, I never knew that early department stores had a “notions” department that sold pins, cotton, ribbon and other sewing necessities. Exactly. Of course, as the ready-to-wear industry came along, we began offering a lot of baby essentials, like blankets and bibs, which we still carry today. What’s the most long-standing children’s brand Von Maur has carried? Probably Carter’s. It’s a label that’s truly stood the test of time. Almost every retailer out there carries some portion of the line. But the children’s industry is very cyclical. We had a great vendor on our floor for many years, Hartstrings, and it went out of business this past year. I was sad to see that one go, because we had a lot of customers who appreciated those looks. What are some of the bestselling brands for boys today? Definitely Under Armour, thanks to that whole active wear craze happening out there. In dresswear, Ralph Lauren and Michael Kors. How about for girls? Bonnie Jean, Amy Byer and Lily Bleu. How has children’s fashion changed in your 14 years with the company? In the children’s world, fashion has definitely gone toward a more casual vein. Our dress assortment has really been tweaked in recent years. We still carry little suits and bow ties and dress shirts for boys, but each year that gets scaled back a little more because it’s just more acceptable now to wear casual looks. Kids used to wear dress-up clothes to go to a wedding, but now they may just wear a polo shirt with a khaki pant. What’s considered dressy has definitely changed over the years.
dolls.” Do you still provide a playroom? Oh yeah. We still have a children’s activity area in every store. It’s usually located really close to the children’s department or next to children’s shoes. There’s always a table with Thomas the Tank Engine toys. There’s usually a TV playing a current movie that’s really big or new episodes of TV shows. Kids can stay active and playing while mom is nearby shopping for clothing and checking back in. We’ve recently started adding large, interactive items in our stores. We have these large trees, where kids can go up and press buttons and they make different sounds. The eyes open up on the tree and it comes to life. At our Alpharetta, GA, location, we have a custom floor-to-ceiling peach tree that plays music. Kids feed coins into the machine, and a peach starts at the very top, is dropped off a limb, travels all the way down this tree and gets dropped into baskets. They go crazy watching it. Another thing we offer is a family room in the restroom, so it makes it easy for mom to take all the kids in at once without having to shuffle them in and out of each stall. And we have a mother’s room for diaper changing, feeding and quiet time for the baby. That’s rare to find in department stores today. The last thing you want to do is take your brand new baby into a dirty restroom. Our mother’s room is very spacious. You’ll see couches and chairs and usually a lot of other moms in there. Has that mindset always been part of the company culture? Yes, I think it’s just about making it easier for your customer to come and enjoy the experience of shopping. When people come into our stores, it’s not a quick trip. They’re coming for the experience of shopping multiple departments. We provide a full family offering in our stores. We cover infants all the way up to every size you can think of for adults, from petite to plus-size. We have extended sizes in the men’s department, too. We really try to make it easy for people to come in and shop for whoever or whatever they’re looking for. And if you’re going to be there for a long time, you’re more than likely going to need to use the restroom, so we really take pride in keeping our restrooms clean. I have friends who tell me they won’t use the restroom anywhere but Von Maur [laughs].
Historically, what have been Von Maur’s bestselling styles for kids? For many years it was our dress assortment because there was really no other place to go and get looks for first communions and bar mitzvahs. But in recent decades, we’ve seen a ton of business generated around a trend in television or pop culture. We’ve seen the height of selling when properties like Hannah Montana or High School Musical were a craze. We’ve really tried to capitalize over the years on the things that kids are really into.
She also suggests hosting events, like a “Jack Horner Pie Party” at Thanksgiving or Christmas time. Does Von Maur still offer events for kids? We do! We always do large grand opening events whenever we are opening a location. And we really try and go all out when it comes to the kids department. We always bring in a balloon artist, a magician and a face painter. Recently we started incorporating more characters. We hire people who come in dressed up like superheroes or princesses. For our last couple of grand openings, we had the entire cast of Frozen. They sing the songs from the movie, and the kids can get their picture taken. They love it. It’s almost like a whole Disney experience at out grand openings [laughs]. It brings mom in and lets her know who we are and what we can offer her, and keeps her coming back.
Collins recommended providing a playroom for the little ones, filled with “wooden or rubber animals, building blocks and paper
Collins notes that the parties can be used to gather information on attendees and “mail announcements of special sales to >74
A CENTURY OF
CHILDREN’S WEAR From homemade clothing to virtual visionaries, Earnshaw’s has acutely represented the zeitgeist of the times since its inception. Here’s to 100 years! 2 2 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C 7 F H ? B % C 7 O ( & ' ,
THE DECADES
1910s
BIRTH OF AN ERA At the turn of the century, hygiene awareness called mothers away from the sewing machine and into the infants’ department.
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VER WONDERED WHERE the name Earnshaw’s originated? Meet =[eh][ <h[Z[h_Ya ;Whdi^Wm$ 8ehd _d M[ij HenXkho" C7" ed @kbo '" '.-'" j^[ cW]Wp_d[Êi \ekdZ[h X[]Wd ^_i WffWh[b YWh[[h Wi W iWb[icWd Wj @e^di CWdl_bb[ 9e$ _d CWiiWY^ki[jji" X[\eh[ cel_d] je 9^_YW]e WdZ \ekdZ_d] j^[ ;Whdi^Wm Ad_jj_d] 9ecfWdo _d '/''$ ?dif_h[Z Xo j^[ dej_ed j^Wj f_di WdZ Xkjjedi m[h[ XWZ \eh XWXo" j^[ YecfWdo iebZ LWdjW 8WXo =Whc[dji" m^_Y^ \Wij[d[Z m_j^ j^[ XhWdZÊi fWj[dj[Z Çjm_ijb[ii jWf[$È Je ^[bf fhecej[ j^[ YecfWdo WdZ Xeeij j^[ Ô[Z]b_d] XWXo WffWh[b Xki_d[ii" ;Whdi^Wm bWkdY^[Z The Infants’ Department" ÇW cedj^bo cW]Wp_d[ Z[lej[Z [nYbki_l[bo je _d\WdjiÊ m[Wh WdZ je j^[ fheXb[ci e\ j^[ _d\WdjiÊ m[Wh Xko[h$È I_dY[ ceij ijeh[i Wj j^[ j_c[ e\\[h[Z Wd WhhWo e\ ]eeZi \eh j^[ [dj_h[ \Wc_bo" j^[ Óhij _iik[ bW_Z ekj j^[ YWi[ \eh j^[ _cfehjWdY[ e\ j^[ e\j#d[]b[Yj[Z _d\WdjiÊ m[Wh Z[fWhjc[dj$ 7i ;Whdi^Wm dej[Z" W cej^[h m^e i^efi \eh XWXo _i b_a[bo je Xko _j[ci \eh ^[hi[b\ WdZ ^[h ^kiXWdZ" jeeÆWdZ je a[[f Yec_d] XWYa Wi XWXo ][ji ebZ[h$ BWkdY^[Z _d j^[ i^WZem e\ MM?" j^[ Z[Xkj _iik[ e\\[h[Z Wd [nfbWdWj_ed \eh m^o j^[ Yeij e\ ad_j ]eeZi ^WZ iaoheYa[j[Z0 Ki[Z je Ybej^[ j^[ jheefi _d ;khef[" meeb \WXh_Y mWi _dYh[Wi_d]bo ^WhZ je ÓdZ$ ?dij[WZ" cWdk\WYjkh[hi h[iehj[Z je Yejjed" WdZ j^[ _dYh[Wi[Z Z[cWdZ Zhel[ kf fh_Y[i ed j^[ dem#kX_gk_jeki ad_j$ J^[ cW]Wp_d[Êi WZi [dYekhW][Z h[WZ[hi je fkhY^Wi[ J^h_\j IjWcfi WdZ MWh IWl_d]i IjWcfi je Ç^[bf KdYb[ IWc m_d j^[ mWh$È Ej^[h Y^Wbb[d][i e\ j^[ [hW5 9edl_dY_d] ceci je i^ef \eh XWXo hWj^[h j^Wd i[m_d] Wd [di[cXb[$ >WdZcWZ[ ]eeZi m[h[ ij_bb fh[\[hh[Z$ >em[l[h" j^[ [c[h]_d] Ç8[jj[h 8WXoÈ cel[c[dj" m^_Y^ W_c[Z je [ZkYWj[ fWh[dji _d WZ[gkWj[ Y^_bZYWh[ WdZ ^o]_[d[" c[Wdj j^Wj Çi_cfb[ WdZ iWd_jWhoÈ h[WZo# je#m[Wh ]Whc[dji m[h[ _d le]k[$ J^[ [nWcfb[ ]_l[d5 7 XWXo Xkdj_d] cWZ[ e\ YehZkheo WdZ b_d[Z m_j^ m^_j[ mWi^WXb[ i_ba$ ÇI^em j^[c j^_d]i j^[o YWdÊj cWa["È j^[ cW]Wp_d[Êi mh_j[hi ik]][ij[Z" b_a[ ÇijeYa_d]i" i^e[i" ]bel[i" mWj[hfhee\ Whj_Yb[i" XWii_d[ji WdZ XWia[ji$È I_cfbo [dj_Y_d] cej^[hi je l[djkh[ ekj e\ j^[
^eki[ m_j^ XWXo mWi Wdej^[h jWbb jWia$ 7 \kbb *&# eZZ o[Whi X[\eh[ j^[ _dl[dj_ed e\ jeZWoÊi hekj_d[ lWYY_d[i" j^[ Del[cX[h '/'- _iik[ iWZbo dej[i j^Wj ceh[ 7c[h_YWd XWX_[i Z_[Z j^Wj o[Wh j^Wd c[d Z_[Z Wj mWh$ Ekj e\ j^[ Wffhen_cWj[bo ($+ c_bb_ed Xehd [l[ho o[Wh Zkh_d] j^Wj j_c[" )+&"&&& Z_[Z _d _d\WdYo$ 7YYehZ_d]bo" cW_b ehZ[h YWjWbe]k[i m[h[ Xh_Ya#WdZ# cehjWhÊi X_]][ij Yecf[j_j_ed$ 8kj W d[m j[Y^debe]o mWi Yec_d] je j^[ h[iYk[0 j^[ j[b[f^ed[$ J^[ _dl[dj_ed ^WZ Çl_hjkWbbo h[lebkj_ed_p[Z Xki_d[ii"È j^[ cW]Wp_d[ dej[i" WZl_i_d] h[jW_b[hi je ki[ _j je h[WY^ j^[ ÇijWo Wj ^ec[i$È 7dZ" Wi WbmWoi" jef#dejY^ Ykijec[h i[hl_Y[" [ZkYWj_edWb i[c_dWhi WdZ W h[bWn_d] Wjceif^[h[ m[h[ h[Yecc[dZ[Z Wi YhkY_Wb je Xeeij_d] Xki_d[ii$ J^[ :[Y[cX[h '/'- _iik[ ik]][ij[Z h[jW_b[hi Ój kf Wd WZ`e_d_d] fbWoheec WdZ Óbb _j m_j^ meeZ[d eh hkXX[h Wd_cWbi" Xk_bZ_d] XbeYai WdZ fWf[h Zebbi$ J^ei[ m^e emd[Z W f^ede]hWf^ i^ekbZ fbWo h[YehZi e\ dkhi[ho h^oc[i$ 7i j^[ Whj_Yb[ iW][bo ikci kf" ÇJ^[ ikh[ij WdZ i^ehj[ij mWo je j^[ cej^[hÊi ^[Whj WdZ feYa[j Xeea _i j^hek]^ j^[ Y^_bZ$È —Audrey Goodson Kingo
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“Make your department attractive to the children and you not only make the mother your customer, but a booster for your store. And after all the best kind of advertising is that which money can’t buy—the reputation for service created by the favorable comments of pleased customers.” December 1917
1. An early issue of Earnshaw’s touted “save the babies.” 2. A scene from popular film, “Skinner’s Baby” on the December 1917 cover. 3. An infant display at Gimbel Brothers in New York. 4. An ad called for retailers to advertise in film.
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THE DECADES
1920s
1. Women’s fashions influenced children’s clothes. 2. The January 1925 issue crusaded for infants’ health. 3. Saks & Company opened on Fifth Avenue. 4. Children’s clothing became more casual. 5. An infants’ display at Bloomingdale Brothers.
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HEAR THEM ROAR An age of relative prosperity, the 1920s boasted decreased hemlines and increased awareness on health.
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“Perhaps you have regarded New Zealand as one of those places where savages and kangaroos make up the population. But so far as babies are concerned, a youngster has a far greater chance to reach his first birthday in New Zealand than in this country.” January 1925
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ELLO SHORT HEMLINES! The decade of drop waist flapper dresses and pearl necklaces ushered in several big changes in fashion—even for the littlest dancers in the @Wpp 7][$ ?j mWi W j_c[ e\ YedjhWijÆb_X[hj_[i m[h[ ]hWdj[Z mec[d _d j^[ K$I$ ]W_d[Z j^[ h_]^j je lej[ m^_b[ Y[hjW_d \h[[Zeci m[h[ jWa[d WmWo h[YWbb Fhe^_X_j_ed WdZ if[Wa[Wio#ijob[ XWhi $ For the The Infants’ Department, which had garnered about /"&&& h[WZ[hi WdZ _djheZkY[Z WZ fW][i Xo CWo '/('" j^_i c[Wdj j^Wj j^[ Ybej^_d] \[Wjkh[Z mWi _dYh[Wi_d]bo YhW\j[Z je ik_j j^[ h[Wb d[[Zi e\ Y^_bZh[d$ Beei[" fhWYj_YWb Ybej^_d] _d gkWb_jo" bed]#ijWdZ_d] \WXh_Yi mWi X[_d] cWha[j[Z \eh Çoekd]ij[hi"È h[fbWY_d] j^[ ij_\\" \h_bbo ]Whc[dji e\ fh[l_# eki Z[YWZ[i$ ?d j^[ I[fj[cX[h '/(+ _iik[ e\ m^Wj mWi by then called) The Infants’ & Children’s Department G.F. ;Whdi^Wm dej[Z" Ç?j _i" m[ X[b_[l[" j^[ 7][ e\ j^[ 9^_bZ$ M[ ZekXj j^Wj [l[h Wd [hW [n_ij[Z _d m^_Y^ ie ckY^ mWi Zed[ for childhood as is being done to day.” By the end of the decade, casual clothing was at the forefront of children’s fashion and wardrobes expanded into sport, play, snow and sun, but the focus on the child’s m[bb#X[_d] mWi dej `kij b_c_j[Z je \Wi^_edÆj^[ cW_d jef_Y e\ Z_iYkii_ed _d j^[ c_Z#Ê(&i mWi kdgk[ij_edWXbo ^[Wbj^$ ?d @WdkWho '/(+" ;Whdi^WmÊi [Z_jeh_Wb jekY^[Z ed j^[ Çed[ _d jm[djo#ed[È YhkiWZ[ je h[ZkY[ _d\Wdj cehjWb_jo _d j^[ Kd_j[Z States. Despite the Roaring Twenties’ relative prosperity m_j^ j^[ ceij dejWXb[ [nY[fj_ed X[_d] j^[ ijeYa cWha[j YhWi^ j^Wj \k[b[Z j^[ =h[Wj :[fh[ii_ed _d '/(/ " ;Whdi^Wm Z[iYh_X[Z W Xb[Wa jhkj^$ ÇJeZWo ekh _d\Wdj cehjWb_jo hWj[ _i ed[ _d \ekhj[[d$ JhWdibWj[Z \hec j^_i XWbZ ijWj[c[dj e\ vital statistics into real understandable language, the life of one baby in every fourteen is fated,” he wrote. He went on to crusade for children’s health, and he X[b_[l[Z j^[ cW]Wp_d[ i^ekbZ fbWo Wd Wbb#_cfehjWdj fWhj _d Y^_bZh[dÊi m[b\Wh[$ ÇDe ^ec[ _i ie ^kcXb[" de ^ec[ ie ]hWdZ" j^Wj m_bb dej ^[Wh WdZ ^[[Z j^[ Wff[Wb je cWa[ j^_i Yekdjho e\ ekhi j^[ iW\[ij _d j^[ mehbZ \eh ekh ceij fh[Y_eki possessions, the babies,” he stated. Fittingly, ads about ^[Wbj^YWh[ fkXb_YWj_edi WdZ Z_iYkii_edi e\ cej^[h YWh[ WdZ XWXo ^[Wbj^ m[h[ ifh_dab[Z j^hek]^ekj j^[ cW]Wp_d[Êi fW][i$ ?d '/('" ^[ c[j m_j^ MWi^_d]jed X_]m_]i je bWkdY^
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THE DECADES
1920s
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1. A whimsical illustration on the March 1925 cover. 2. A sleeping babe graced the September 1925 cover. 3. Girls’ bonnets were a coveted accessory. 4. The cover illustration on the October 1925 issue boasted Halloween spirit. 5. Mary Janes were the go-to shoe.
National Baby Week, which offered health lectures and advice to new moms. (By its f[Wa _d j^[ '/)&i" j^[ [l[dj mWi WZl[hj_i[Z Xo +"&&& ijeh[i$ From Charles Dickens’ excerpts to mention of Charlie Chaplin, the magazine aptly reflected the pop culture of the time. Fashion shows were successful, the magazine reported. Also trending? Workmanship and fabrics from the East—ads boasted sourcing \hec @WfWd WdZ j^[ F^_b_ff_d[i Wi m[bb Wi Z[i_]dWj[Z f[h_eZi b_a[ B[Wj^[h M[[a WdZ Brooklyn Day. While the focus remained on apparel for chubby-cheeked babies, the decade’s illustrations also featured fashions for older girls and young women, as well—from “maids” to “misses.” As for the topics tackled by the magazine, some things have never changed. Opining that free speech “may be all right in the open, outside of business hours,” a writer cheekishly mused it would likely attract a lot of attention if some stores decided to put up a sign at their entrance reading something Wbed] j^[ b_d[i e\0 ÇB[Wl[ feb_j_Yi" h[b_]_ed and nationality behind, all ye who enter ^[h[$È ?d ej^[h mehZi" fkj Xki_d[ii Óhij$ Also unchanged? The magazine’s high regard \eh Ykijec[h i[hl_Y[$ ?d j^[ Del[cX[h '/(+ issue, Earnshaw wisely noted: “For nobody needs a smile so much as those who have none left to give.”—Lauren Olsen
“Revile Jew and the Gentile, Protestant and Catholic, Japs or flappers, if that be your uncharitable nature, and you feel that you must; but, for mercy’s sake, do it when you are alone and not where it is going to be overheard, to wound the sensitive feelings of some of your good customers, and perhaps, turn them from your establishment forever.” January 1925
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Celebrating Earnshaw’s Centennial Issue #100years100babies
Bliss™ Round Blanket shipping now Plush for playtime, yet light enough to tote from home to the outdoors.
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THE DECADES
1930s 1
Despite economic challenges, the 1930s saw industry growth stemming from an unwavering dedication to service.
1. A girl bobbed for apples on the October 1932 cover. 2. Ruffled sleeves were a girl’s go-to. 3. An ad for Mickey Mouse hankies. 4. An editorial touted the benefits of accessories. 5. As always, time must be set aside for play! 6. Peter Pan collars exuded childlike enthusiasm. 7. The Mary Jane continued to reign.
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COMING OUT AHEAD
BOUT 15 MILLION Americans were unemployed at the beginning of the '/)&i" m^[d The Infants’ and Children’s Department became a beacon of hope for the childrenswear industry. The =h[Wj :[fh[ii_ed mWi _d \kbb im_d]" and the magazine provided practical advice and handy how-to content that aimed to help the _dZkijho j^h_l[$ ?d Wd EYjeX[h '/)( f_[Y[ j_jb[Z ÇM^[h[ :e M[ =e \hec >[h[5È =$<$ ;Whdi^Wm mhej[" Ç:kh_d] j^[ past three months (probably the worst business months the stores have ever experienced) there has been plenty of opportunity to turn around and look at the results of ef[hWj_edi" WdZ j^[ gk[ij_ed _i" ÉM^Wj ^Wl[ m[ ]W_d[Z eh learned by the experience?’” 7bie _d j^Wj _iik[" Wd Wkj^eh mhej[0 Ç?\ oek ^Wl[ \ebbem[Z j^[ ik]][ij_edi cWZ[ bWij cedj^ oek ^Wl[ iYhkXX[Z" Yb[Wd[Z" fW_dj[Z Ónjkh[i" Wii[cXb[Z" WdZ h[ZkY[Z oekh stock of infants’ wear to current price levels…Every time oek beea Wj W b_d[ e\ c[hY^WdZ_i[" eh cWa[ W fkhY^Wi[" Wia oekhi[b\" Ze[i _j c[Wikh[ kf je j^[ ceZ[b Z[fWhjc[dj oek ^Wl[ _d c_dZ$È I_c_bWhbo" _d Del[cX[h '/)(" ;Whdi^Wm (in what was by now dubbed Earnshaw’s The Infants’ and Children’s Department) reminded retailers not to abanZed gkWb_jo0 Ç?\ j^[ Xko[hi Ze dej ijeYa j^[ Z[fh[ii_ed gkWb_j_[i" j^[ ]_hbi YWdÊj i[bb Z[fh[ii_ed c[hY^WdZ_i[$È ?d <[XhkWho '/))" W ^ef[\kb ;Whdi^Wm mhej[0 ÇJ^[ Z[fh[ii_ed _i de bed][h W jef_Y e\ Yedl[hiWj_ed¾?d ej^[h mehZi" Yecced i[di[ ^Wi jWa[d j^[ fbWY[ e\ \[Wh and panic. Folks are ready for a new deal. What are you ]e_d] je Ze WXekj _j5 Oekh Yb_[dji Wh[ h[WZo \eh W h[WZ`kijment based on Economy through Quality.” The National H[Yel[ho 7Zc_d_ijhWj_ed DH7 " m^_Y^ W_c[Z je Xeeij business recovery via fair-practice codes during the Great :[fh[ii_ed" X[YWc[ Wd _cfehjWdj fe_dj e\ Z_iYkii_ed$ Iec[ e\ j^[ Z[YWZ[Êi Yel[hi fhecej[Z _j" WdZ ;Whdi^Wm ^_c[b\ Y[hjW_dbo Z_Z$ ?d I[fj[cX[h '/))" ^[ mhej[" ÇJ^[ D$H$7$ fbWd" j^[ mehbZÊi ]h[Wj[ij c[hY^WdZ_i_d] fbWd e\ Wbb j_c[" is rolling along and the group in Washington are doing things and going places. Keep ahead of the steamroller—it’s Yec_d] kf j^[ heWZ e\ X[jj[h j_c[i$È ;Whbo _d j^[ Z[YWZ[" ^[Wbj^ mWi ij_bb W X_] \eYki" WdZ dkhi[i m[h[ e\j[d ^_h[Z _d infants’ departments as sources of information regard_d] Y^_bZYWh[ WdZ ^[Wbj^$ ?d '/)'" ;Whdi^Wm Yedj_dk[Z je fkXb_Y_p[ ÇCej^[hYhW\j ;ZkYWj_ed"È Wd [ZkYWj_edWb program consisting of a series of classes in motherhood and how to sell to moms. Salespeople were encouraged
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to become experts in the craft, and consumer ads suggested customers ask about relevant certifications. That increased focus on child-rearing impacted the industry in other ways, too: In February 1933, the magazine reported that, at one store, sales of “approved” toys offering value in a child’s development, were climbing. The ’30s also witnessed an increased focus on regulations, patents and wages—another side effect of the Depression—but new developments continued apace. Nylon came on the scene (in line with the strong, wearable fabrics of the time). And in 1938, Earnshaw Knitting Company released a new synthentic material combining linen and cotton, dubbed Vantalin. Stylish youngsters of the time sported puffy sleeves, Peter Pan collars and Mary Jane shoes. Boys’ cotton and corduroy short sets, called suits, were standard. And the decade’s biggest little screen star, Shirley Temple, inspired a look that would be associated with her name for years to come. (Think collared dresses with ribbons, smocking, tucking, pleating and piping.) America’s Little Darling wasn’t the only character making waves. Mickey Mouse first appeared in the ’20s and would star in many short films throughout the next decade. Winnie-the-Pooh also rose to fame thanks to the books by English author A.A. Milne, also published in the previous decade. Ads in the magazine featured Mickey Mouse hankies and Winnie-the-Pooh toys. Despite the decade’s many challenges, the industry continued to grow, in large part due to an overarching commitment to customer service—a concept that continues to resonate today. —L.O.
“Come on New York, the pride of America. Stop selling those Czechoslovakian price cutting shoes and starvation-wage-made goods. Put some American ideals in your business. Live and let live.” June 1933
THE DECADES
1940s 1
1. A soldier’s portrait took center stage on the August 1941 cover. 2. Military trends in childrenswear reflected the times. 3. Accessories, requiring little fabric, were popular. 4. A patriotic cover in June 1942. 5. A fabric ad spotlighted what was trending.
VICTORY DANCE
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The 1940s comprised an era that celebrated the end of a war and the beginning of a technological revolution.
T’S TOUGH TO j^_da e\ j^[ '/*&i m_j^ekj h[YWbb_d] MM??" WdZ _dZ[[Z" j^[ mWh _cfWYj[Z Wbceij [l[ho Wif[Yj e\ 7c[h_YWd b_\[ Zkh_d] j^[ Z[YWZ[Æ_dYbkZ_d] Y^_bZh[dim[Wh$ 8o j^[ @WdkWho '/*( _iik[ e\ Earnshaw’s" b[ii j^Wd ed[ cedj^ W\j[h j^[ WjjWYa ed F[Whb >WhXeh" j^[ cW]Wp_d[Êi WZl[hj_i[hi ki[Z j^[_h lWbkWXb[ ifWY[ je [dYekhW][ j^[_h Yebb[W]k[i je Xko Z[\[di[ XedZi WdZ ijWcfi$ F^ejei e\ oekd] c[d" c[cX[hi e\ j^[ _dZkijho ^[WZ[Z e\\ je mWh" X[]Wd je Wff[Wh _d j^[ cW]Wp_d[Êi fW][i$ ÇFheXWXbo j^[ j^ek]^j kff[hceij _d ekh c_dZi jeZWo _i ^em ekh b_l[i Wh[ ]e_d] je X[ W\\[Yj[Z Xo j^[ mWh"È cki[Z =$<$ ;Whdi^Wm _d ^_i [Z_jehÊi b[jj[h _d j^[ <[XhkWho '/*( _iik[$ Ikh[ [dek]^" _j W\\[Yj[Z Wbceij [l[ho Yehd[h e\ j^[ h[jW_b _dZkijho _d _ji ZkhWj_ed$ Ijob[i X[YWc[ ijh[Wcb_d[Z _d Wdj_Y_fWj_ed e\ \WXh_Y i^ehjW][i$ ÇL[ho i_cfb[ oekd] ^Wji j^Wj ^Wl[ [b_c_dWj[Z Wbb \khi WdZ \[Wj^[hi WdZ Wh[ d[l[hj^[b[ii ijob[ h_]^j _d j^[_h icWhj b_d[i WdZ ded#[ii[dj_Wb \WXh_Y Wh[ j^[ fheif[Yj \eh Wd 7c[h_YW Wj mWh$ FheXWXbo j^[o m_bb X[ icWbb[h je Yedi[hl[ lWbkWXb[ cWj[h_Wb \eh j^[ mWh [\\ehj"È W mh_j[h fh[Z_Yj[Z _d j^[ CWhY^ '/*( _iik[$ ?d j^[ iWc[ _iik[" Wdej^[h mh_j[h dej[Z j^Wj fWij[bi mekbZ X[ a[o _d \kjkh[ Yebb[Yj_edi" i_dY[ j^[ Y^[c_YWbi ki[Z je Yh[Wj[ Z[[f[h#Yebeh[Z Zo[i mekbZ Ç]e je j^[ mWhj_c[ [\\ehj$È ?d j^[ \ebbem_d] o[Whi" \WXh_Y i^ehjW][i WdZ fh_Y[ h[ijh_Yj_edi W YWkj_edWho c[Wikh[ je fh[l[dj _dÔWj_ed fh[i[dj[Z X_] ^khZb[i \eh Y^_bZh[dim[Wh Xko[hi WdZ i[bb[hi$ <WXh_Y Wbj[hdWj_l[i b_a[ Yejjed YehZkheo X[YWc[ ijWdZWhZ _d W Çmeeb h[ijh_Yj[Z mehbZ$È 7dZ m^[d j^[ i^ehjW][i X[YWc[ Z_h[" ;Whdi^Wm hki^[Z je j^[ h[iYk[" kh]_d] j^[ MWh FheZkYj_ed 8eWhZ je WZZh[ii j^[ ÇYh_j_YWb d[[Z \eh meeb eh fWhj meeb XWXo XbWda[jiÈ _d ^_i 7fh_b '/*) [Z_jehÊi b[jj[h$ J^[ YekdjhoÊi XbWda[j c_bbi ^WZ Z[Z_YWj[Z Wbceij '&& f[hY[dj e\ j^[_h fheZkYj_ed je j^[ mWh [\\ehj$ J^hek]^ _j Wbb" Earnshaw’s [dYekhW][Z h[WZ[hi je h[cW_d efj_c_ij_Y WdZ \eYki ed Ykijec[h i[hl_Y[$ ÇFei_j_l[ iWb[icWdi^_f X[Yec[i ceh[ _cfehjWdj Wi c[hY^WdZ_i_d] ikXij_jkj[i Zk[ je ]el[hdc[dj fh_eh_j_[i WdZ h[ijh_Yj_edi X[Yec[ ceh[ WYkj["È j^[ cW]Wp_d[ WZl_i[Z$ 7dZ Z[if_j[ j^[ e\j[d#]beeco d[mi \hec WXheWZ" j^[h[ mWi ed[ X_] h[Wied je X[ fei_j_l[0 J^[ mWhj_c[ _dYh[Wi[ _d XWX_[i jhWdibWj[Z _dje X_] Xki_d[ii$ ÇM^e bWj[bo ^WidÊj X[[d [d`eo_d] ]h[Wjbo _dYh[Wi[Z iWb[i j^Wj ikhfWii Wbb \ehc[h
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THE DECADES
1940s 2
1
1. An ad boasted clothing crafted in the same mills as military uniforms. 2. An Eastern Isles ad targeted little girls. 3. An editorial covered Easter trends. 4. April 27 to May 3 was beloved National Baby Week. 5. A springtime cover brightened up April 1941.
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records!” one ad proclaimed. Another writer dej[Z _d @kbo '/*( j^Wj bWo[jj[ iWb[i ^WZ h[WY^[Z their highest peak in a quarter of a century. Accessories were another must-have for tots during the era. No outfit was complete without gloves and a hat. (Felts, bonnets, Breton sailors and berets were big for kids, while glamour bobs, cute derbies and pill boxes were popular with teens.) The war impacted the era’s styling, too. “Air Raid Warden suits, defense overalls and military playclothes are, of course, predominant in the new designs,” j^[ cW]Wp_d[ dej[Z _d '/*($ Overall, traditional looks were preferred. (Think Bobbie suits for young boys and nipped-waist cotton dresses in printed pique, gingham and seersucker for girls.) But a more casual approach to fashion was catching on with teenage girls. Bobby soxers, as they were called, became known for more than just being Frank Sinatra fans: They also could be spotted sporting pleated skirts with oversized “sloppy joe” sweaters and rolled down socks and saddle shoes. And by the middle of the decade, girls’ summer styles had become more relaxed, too. “Bare remains the chief defining adjective of ikcc[h '/**"È ed[ mh_j[h dej[Z" fe_dj_d] je deep necklines, sleeveless pinafore dresses and play dresses with bare middriffs. ?dZ[[Z" j^[ j_Z[ mWi jkhd_d]" _d \Wi^_ed Wi _d j^[ mWh$ 7d WZ \eh @ei[f^ Bel[" ?dY$ YWbb[Z '/** ÇW fhec_i_d] o[Wh¾W o[Wh _d m^_Y^ m[ Wh[ prayerfully anticipating victory.” That victory would come in the following year, and the rest of the decade would bring breakthroughs in fabrics and, most notably, plastics, hailed as a “nursery miracle” for furniture, clothes, glue and diaper linings. —A.G.K.
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“The War Production Board made public Christmas week-end the Santa gift that retailers and consumers have been waiting for these many months, eighteen million yards of fabric earmarked for the infants’ and children’s wear industry in four quarterly installments.” February 1944 3 2 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C 7 F H ? B % C 7 O ( & ' ,
THE DECADES
1950s 1
1. Ads still showcased dainty styles for girls like poufy skirts and Mary Janes. 2. Boyswear became increasingly casual. 3. Bows remained a fashion symbol of youth and innocence for girls. 4. The ’50s experienced a tremendous baby boom.
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“The electronic age in which we live, in the next ten years will bring progress to the children’s wear business undreamed of forty years ago, and by the year 2000, the changes should be beyond the wildest dreams of the imagination.” August 1957
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BABY BOOM In the post-war ’50s, new manufacturing capabilities and lower costs led to explosive production and fresh takes on fashion.
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NOWN FOR STARS like Marilyn Monroe and Audrey Hepburn, ladylike elegance and feij#mWh bWl_i^d[ii" j^[ '/+&i mWi j^[ \Wi^_ed ZWhb_d] e\ Wbb Z[YWZ[i je ZWj[$ :_ehÊi D[m Beea mWi _d le]k[" ;bl_i mWi [b[Yjh_\o_d] crowds, the modern credit card debuted and production methods were evolving so rapidbo _j c[Wdj cWcWÊi ^WdZ#i[md Ybej^_d] de bed][h gk_j[ Ój j^[ X_bb$ 8kj j^[ fW][i e\ Earnshaw’s were not as concerned with the Elvis craze as they were with commemorating the jhWdi\ehcWj_ed jWa_d] fbWY[ _d j^[ Y^_bZh[dim[Wh _dZkijho$ The war was over, and the birth rate was booming. Accordingly, ^WdZ#c[#Zemdi m[h[ imWff[Z \eh ^_]^ \Wi^_ed$ F[W YeWji" pleats, knee-length cotton dresses, brass buttons, snowsuits, b[Wj^[h jh_ci" \Wkn WdZ h[Wb \kh WYY[dj[Z YWhZ_]Wdi" XeoiÊ i^ehj ik_ji WdZ ^ec[#ad_j im[Wj[hi m[h[ Wbb j^[ hW][$ =_hbiÊ beeai e\j[d e\\[h[Z W Z[jWY^WXb[ Yecfed[djÆm^[j^[h _j X[ W YebbWh" Yk\\i" W Xbeki[" eh Wd Wfhed$ <WXh_Yi [lebl[Z m_j^ j^[ ki[ e\ iodj^[j_Yi" WdZ j^[h[ m[h[ X[jj[h Ód_i^[i ed dWjkhWb ed[i$ =_hbiÊ \Wi^_ed mWi \h_bbo" m^_b[ XeoiÊ ijob[i [d`eo[Z Wd _dYh[Wi_d] Wcekdj e\ \h[[Zec" h[fbWY_d] ijk\\o j_[i m_j^ YWikWb `[Wdi$ 7bj^ek]^ ed[ e\ j^[ cW]Wp_d[Êi mh_j[hi Z[iYh_X[Z j^[ \[c_d_d[ WffheWY^ je Zh[ii_d] b_jjb[ ]_hbi Wi ÇXWi_YWbbo h_]^j"È i^[ fh[Z_Yj[Z W ]h[Wj[h i[di[ e\ [gkWb_jo je Yec[0 Ç7i [l_Z[dY[Z Xo j^[ WZkbj Ó[bZi" je X[ \[cinine does not necessarily mean to be pink, blue, and maize fbki h_XXedi" bWY[i" WdZ hk\Ô[i"È i^[ dej[Z$ 7i \eh Xki_d[ii" j^[ h_i[ e\ cWii#fheZkYj_ed ^WZ ZhWij_YWbbo h[ZkY[Z j^[ Yeij e\ ]Whc[dji$ ?d W b[jj[h je j^[ cW]Wp_d[ _d j^[ 7k]kij '/+- _iik[" >[dho H_[][b" fh[i_Z[dj e\ Kd_j[Z ?d\WdjiÊ WdZ 9^_bZh[dÊi M[Wh 7iieY_Wj_ed" [nfbW_d[Z j^Wj fh[l_ekibo Y^_bZh[dÊi Ybej^[i ^WZ X[[d ceh[ eh b[ii ijWfb[ _j[ci$ ÇJeZWoÊi Y^_bZh[d" m_j^ j^[_h ]h[Wjbo _dYh[Wi[Z WYj_l_j_[i" d[[Z W X_]][h lWh_[jo e\ Ybej^[i j^Wd Wdo fh[l_eki ][d[hWj_ed ^Wi d[[Z[Z"È ^[ W\Óhc[Z$ J^[ _dZkijho" W\j[h Wbb ^WZ Ç]hemd \hec W ^[j[he][d[eki ]hekf e\ Yekdjho ijeh[i WdZ icWbb cWdk\WYjkh_d] [ijWXb_i^c[dji je W Yecfb[n eh]Wd_pWj_ed e\ if[Y_Wbjo i^efi" Z[fWhjc[dj ijeh[i" cW_b ehZ[h ^eki[i" and the newly created discount operations,” agreed Samuel 8$ Ae]Wd" fh[i_Z[dj e\ H[jW_b 9^_bZh[dÊi M[Wh 7iieY_Wj_ed e\ C[jhefeb_jWd F^_bWZ[bf^_W$ Je a[[f kf m_j^ j^[ [nfWdZ_d] _dZkijho" _d '/+&" Earnshaw’s launched Small World" W cW]Wp_d[ Z[Z_YWj[Z je Y^_bZh[dÊi \khd_jkh[ WdZ ][Wh$ 7dZ d[m \Wi^_ed cWhj Xk_bZ_d]i X[YWc[ W ^_l[ \eh m^eb[iWb[ Yecc[hY[ _d Bei 7d][b[i" :WbbWi" 9^Whb[ijed" 7jbWdjW WdZ :[dl[h$ 7i ed[ _dZkijho b[WZ[h \eh[YWij[Z" j^[ o[Whi je Yec[ mekbZ fhel[ je X[ Ç[njh[c[bo heio ed[i$È—L.O.
THE ADVENTURES OF
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THE DECADES
1960s
1 2
FLOWER CHILD Powered by cultural shifts and fabric innovations, casual fashion let children of the ’60s move freely.
1. Sub-teens were becoming a big category for retailers. 2. Gift sets were popular among consumers. 3. Bonding over sports in some preppy activewear. 4. Three “sub-teens” looking sharp in their dressy separates sporting the decade’s signature earthy palette. 5. Bright spirits in bright colors were among the trends.
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“And, check yourself on body hygiene and breath. Your best friend may not tell you but the customers may edge gently toward the door if only to get a breath of fresh air.” April 1967
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HILE THE ’50S may have marked a more conservative era in American life, not so for the decade of flower power, free bel[ WdZ Y_l_b h_]^ji$ J^[ Ê,&i open-minded attitudes even influenced the childrenswear industry, sparked in part by the persistent popularity of f[Z_Wjh_Y_Wd :h$ IfeYa$ <eh +( o[Whi W\j[h _ji fkXb_YWj_ed _d '/*," ^_i Xeea Baby and Child Care was the secondX[ij#i[bb_d] Xeea d[nj je j^[ 8_Xb[$ ?dÔk[dY[Z Xo :h$ Spock’s hands-on approach to parenting, middle-class moms were more permissive—and more likely to splurge on kids’ clothes and gifts, according to an article in the Del[cX[h '/,& _iik[$ Accordingly, kids’ fashions became more casual. The popularity of knit fabrics, softer and more breathable than traditional wovens, continued “on a constant upswing,” Wi h[fehj[Z _d EYjeX[h '/,+$ J^[ Z[YWZ[ Wbie ^[hWbZ[Z some of fashion’s most notable fabric breakthroughs. Ikf[h#ijh[jY^o BoYhW mWi _djheZkY[Z _d '/,( WdZ f[hmanent press fabrics first appeared in children’s collecj_edi W \[m o[Whi bWj[h$ ?d ^_i '/,+ [Z_jeh_Wb" Earnshaw’s FkXb_i^[h MWbj[h J$ >kZied Yehh[Yjbo fh[Z_Yj[Z" ÇM[ m_bb witness a great consumer interest in stretch fabrics and permanent press fabrics.” Rather than relying on stiff, staid staples, retailers steered moms toward fashion-driven coordinated knit sets, calling the looks “easy to wear and require little care” and promising “liberation from the iron board.” (Common styles included pedal pushers and shorts paired with boatneck blouses and sleeveless tops for girls and plaid slacks and polos or turtlenecks for boys) 7i j^[ CWhY^ '/,) _iik[ dej[Z" ÇJeZWoÊi oekd] cej^[h does more than wash and iron and cook… She’s busy worrying about the committee to banish beach litter or taking classes in pottery or water skiing.” J^[ fh[Ykhieh je jeZWoÊi jm[[d cWha[j" _d '/,& j^[ magazine launched a special section on the “sub-teen” girl. “An enigma to all, this half-girl, half-woman represents one of the strongest single buying powers in the country jeZWo"È j^[ cW]Wp_d[ Z[YbWh[Z$ FWdji" dem WYY[fjWXb[" were a big hit with the coveted crowd, but pleated skirts and short, boxy button-up jackets (in the style of First BWZo @WYa_[ A[dd[Zo m[h[ W ]e#je \eh ceh[ \ehcWb eYYW-
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THE DECADES
1960s 2
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1. Wonderalls two-piece outerwear sets were easy for mom and cozy for baby. 2. Turtlenecks and colored bottoms were the name of the game for fashion-forward duds. 3. The Beatles rocked the decade as the hottest vocal group. 4. Issue cover from March 1969. 5. Flared pants were all the rage for boys and girls. 6. Ladylike ruffles paired with Mary Janes remained a feminine classic. 7. Ad for the childrenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wear market at The Apparel Mart in Dallas. 8. An article about popular fabrics. 9. Patchwork was perfect for stylish play.
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“I wouldn’t know what store started the first infants’ departments or when it started, but I do know that this industry’s P.T. Barnum was George Earnshaw and he did more to promote infant departments as an individual than anybody and his magazine was right there on the down beat.”
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August 1967
sions. Sub-teens and teens were a big focus for retailers in the second half of the decade, as the booming birth rate of the previous decades began to level off and infants’ wear sales slowed. “Let a disc jockey broadcast from the store on Saturday afternoons,” the magazine offered, on tempting young shoppers to stop by. Declining birth rates weren’t the only demographic shift affecting the industry. As more and more Americans settled in the suburbs, local department stores and independent shops gave way to mass retail. As Hudson noted in his July 1966 editorial, “The decade of the 1960s will probably go down in merchandising annals as the decade of retail bigness…Large chain stores have grown into giant chains, department stores have merged into large merchandising organizations and Main Street has given way to the super shopping center.” Between 1958 and 1968, the number of children’s retail stores dropped from 7,000 to 5,000, approximately. Sears, Marshall Field’s and Gimbels were some of the big names of the day, but in a sign of changes to come, the first Target opened in 1962 in Roseville, MN. Those retailers tempted customers to come by with a revolutionary new way to advertise: television. “Right now the TV impact is hitting children’s wear retailing strongly, and many stores are reporting successful selling in the area,” Hudson noted in 1964. Television characters became hot properties in the licensing world for the first time, like Tammy, an ABC sitcom starring Debbie Watson in the title role. Other technology making waves? Advances in computer technology allowed retailers to use electronic data processing, or EDP, to help keep track of sales and manage inventory. “The advent of EDP has completely reorganized the record keeping department of many stores,” the magazine noted in 1966. “In the near future, the saleslady will indirectly feed data to the computer through her register.” By the end of the decade, the era’s iconic looks had become mainstream: Think flared pants in plaid or floral print, in an earth-tone color palette of “paprika” and “winter olive.” Kids, after all, wanted to emulate their heroes: the decade’s “hottest vocal group,” The Beatles, as an ad in the 1969 issue described. But the band’s break-up—and the ’70s—were right around the corner. —A.G.K.
2975 Whipple Road, Union City, CA 94587 800-978-8088 contact@angeldear.net
THE DECADES
1970s 2
1
GET GROOVY The trendy ’70s taught retailers how to speak the language of youth—offering everything from bell-bottoms to mod lighting.
T
1. Western duds were an American favorite. 2. The cover of the November 1970 issue illustrated the growing trends in sportswear, beachwear and outerwear. 3. A fashion article forecasted the latest beachwear trends. 4. A Chatterbox ad gave a glimpse of back-to-school styles. 5. Girls loved the fit of Rosebuds.
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“The tragic fate of the traditional dress-up Easter coat, and the dress down, jean-oriented philosophy of the now generation have left many coat producers with a jaundiced view of spring.” November 1970
5 4 0 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C 7 F H ? B % C 7 O ( & ' ,
HE SWINGING ’70S took a few years to find its groove. Before the dawn of the disco age, the decade began with price jumps in food, rent and other bare necessities, leaving less disposable income for apparel—particularly children’s apparel. As parents curbed their spending, brands and manufacturers explored the opportunity to target a more impulsive customer base: the tween. However, newsprint wasn’t going to grab this elusive customer’s attention. While an ad in Seventeen or Rolling Stone may have seemed like a no-brainer to reach the younger audience, the costs were prohibitive for rising brands. The next best thing? Radio. An article in j^[ CWhY^ '/-- _iik[ ijWj[i0 ÇJ^hek]^ _ji ^[oZWo in the thirties and forties, and its down period in the fifties and sixties, radio has survived and is indeed now going through some kind of rebirth.” M_j^ d[Whbo // f[hY[dj e\ j^[ YekdjhoÊi fefkbWtion tuning in, brands were encouraged to target ijWj_edi j^Wj \[Wjkh[Z jef *&" Yekdjho#m[ij[hd" R&B and progressive rock music. J^[ Ê-&i Wbie iWm j^[ [nfWdi_ed e\ jh[dZ#Zh_l[d collections and a focus on helping the customer enjoy their shopping experience more than ever before. Department stores and specialty boutiques amped up their aesthetics with vibrant colors and ceZ b_]^j_d]$ ÇOekÊbb i[[ Xekj_gk[ ef[hWj_edi j^Wj cWa[ Ij$ CWhaÊi FbWY[ _d bem[h ;Wij L_bbW][ beea like Abercrombie & Fitch,” one editor proclaimed _d j^[ I[fj[cX[h '/-& _iik[ XWYa m^[d j^[ D[m Oeha 9_jo d[_]^Xeh^eeZ mWi ademd Wi W ^ec[ je hippies, and the teen retailer sold outdoor goods \hec _ji ÔW]i^_f ijeh[ ed CWZ_ied 7l[dk[ $ Ç;l[d in Alexander’s they have a young junior boutique that’s all cubes and switchy lights and shapes.” Shop owners were doing everything in their power to entice the younger clientele—co-owner of a franchised Baby News store admitted to moving all infants’ wear and furniture to the rear of the ijeh[$ ÇDem de oekd] cWd d[[Z X[ [cXWhhWii[Z
THE DECADES
1970s 2
1 to enter our store—he probably isn’t even aware of all the baby things,” the co-owner explained. 8o j^[ 7k]kij '/-/ _iik[" cW_djW_d_d] W jh[dZ#Zh_l[d [dl_hedc[dj WdZ _dl[djeho mWi i_cfbo W d[Y[ii_jo e\ ikhl_lWb$ Ç?\ _jÊi dej hot, and it doesn’t really pop, don’t stock,” h[Yecc[dZ[Z W cWdk\WYjkh[h" fWhj_YkbWhbo _d h[]WhZ je j^[ ]hem_d] Z[d_c YhWp[$ <hec ZWha[d_d] j^[ mWi^ je cWa_d] W ijWj[c[dj with stitching, it was undoubtedly designer Z[d_cÊi j_c[ je i^_d[$ 8[bb#Xejjeci m[h[ Wbb the rage in these disco days, with powerhouse XhWdZi b_a[ B[l_i" :_jjei WdZ MhWd]b[h i[bb_d] kids’ styles in a range of groovy silhouettes, \hec Xeejb[] WdZ ÔWh[Z je X_] X[bb WdZ m_Z[ b[]$ Ej^[h \WXh_Y jh[dZi _dYbkZ[Z fbW_Z" ]_d]^Wc Y^[Yai" iY^_\Ô_ [cXhe_Z[ho WdZ [o[b[j bWY[$ J^[ Xh_]^j Yebehi e\ j^[ Ê,&i YWhh_[Z el[h je j^[ Ê-&i" m_j^ Ôem[hi cW_djW_d_d] j^[_h ijWo_d] power as popular prints and appliqués. Vested ik_ji m[h[ W ]e#je \eh Xeoi _d \ehcWb m[Wh" Xkj \eh [l[hoZWo ijob[" D<B#b_Y[di[Z bekd][ WdZ ifehjim[Wh Zec_dWj[Z j^[ Ó[bZ W\j[h j^[ Óhij Ikf[h 8emb _d '/,- $ C[Wdm^_b[" cWdk\WYjkhers were working hard to bring dresses back into favor with girls, even though sportier ijob[i Yedj_dk[Z je ]W_d cec[djkc$ Safety was also a hot topic during the era. Ed[ [nWcfb[5 J^[ K$I$ ;dl_hedc[djWb Fhej[Yj_ed 7][dYo mWi \ekdZ[Z _d '/-&$ ?d
1. Sporty frocks and casual knits took center stage. 2. Bohemian styles allowed memories of Woodstock to linger. 3. A scene of nostalgia graced the December 1975 issue cover. 4. Short shorts for the win. 5. Ruffled collars were a holiday staple.
3 4
“More buyers would prefer taking a longpostponed visit to the dentist rather than soliciting manufacturers for catalogue ad money.” September 1974
4 2 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C 7 F H ? B % C 7 O ( & ' ,
5
THE DECADES
1970s
1
2
the children’s industry, that concern focused on kids’ sleepwear—specifically, how to balance the potential benefit of flame retardant materials with the potential risk associated with the chemicals used to treat the garments. Congress eventually banned polychlorinated X_f^[dobi F98i _d j^[ Ê-&i" WdZ j^[ _dZkijho began using polybrominated diphenyl ether F8:; Æm^_Y^ jkhd[Z ekj je X[ `kij Wi ^Whc\kb$ 8o '/--" Y^beh_dWj[Z Jh_i mWi X[_d] ki[Z" Xkj again, questions about the chemical’s safety ikh\WY[Z$ J^[ CWhY^ '/-- _iik[ dej[i ÇM^_b[ many Americans blissfully smoke two packs W ZWo WdZ ][j j^[_h i^Wh[ e\ H[Z :o[ DkcX[h Jme _d j^[_h cWhWiY^_de Z[YehWj[Z CWd^WjjWd" they don’t want any threat to their children.” JeZWo cWdk\WYjkh[hi ckij jh[Wj WdZ bWX[b loose-fitting sleepwear as flame resistant while idk] fW`WcWiÆb[ii b_a[bo je YWjY^ Óh[Æh[gk_h[ W bWX[b dej_d] j^[oÊh[ dej ÔWc[ h[i_ijWdj$ F[h^Wfi j^[ ceij cedkc[djWb cec[dj \eh Earnshaw’s ^Wff[d[Z _d 7fh_b '/--" m^[d j^[ publication held its first annual Earnie Awards Wj M_dZemi ed j^[ MehbZ _d D[m Oeha 9_jo$ ?j mWi W YecX_d[Z [\\ehj X[jm[[d Earnshaw’s Review and the Childrenswear Manufacturers 7iieY_Wj_ed [ijWXb_i^[Z _d '/-," _d ehZ[h je fhel_Z[ h[Ye]d_j_ed je j^ei[ m^ei[ Ç_ddelWtion and creativity have made childrenswear iodedoceki m_j^ \Wi^_ed$È ÆEmily Beckman
1. Holiday coordinates with trend right appliqués. 2. Pastels greeted warmer weather. 3. Monsanto’s Wear-Dated promise ensured garments had a full year’s warranty for normal wear. 4. Kids adored roller-skating. 5. Images from an early Earnie Awards ceremony.
3 4
“The children’s wear consumer is price conscious and couldn’t care less about a designer name.” April 1976
5 4 4 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C 7 F H ? B % C 7 O ( & ' ,
THE DECADES
1980s
1
1. Annie, everyone’s favorite redheaded orphan, posed on the cover of Earnshaw’s March 1982 issue. 2. Spiderman, along with other Marvel superheroes, continued to swing into apparel. 3. The Dukes of Hazzard broke into licensing after favorable TV ratings. 4. Classic school girl looks of plaid skirts and knee-high socks took center stage. 5. Big hair and playful accessories were a must.
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“While the economy has been having its ups and downs, NFL merchandise has been having its ups and ups.” March 1981
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TELEVISION STAR
I
The advent of MTV and VHS propelled the ’80s into and era of technicolor excess and ostentatious fashion statements.
F THERE IS W \Wi^_ed m^_fbWi^" j^[ Ê.&i ^WZ _j" m_j^ ikXZk[Z" fh[ffo beeai _d j^[ [Whbo o[WhiÆb_a[ Z[b_YWj[ Xbeki[i WdZ YehZkheo XbWp[hiÆo_[bZ_d] je ijh_a_d]" d[ed [di[cXb[i bWj[h _d j^[ Z[YWZ[$ M^o j^[ cWha[Z Y^Wd][5 Fef Ykbjkh[$ M_j^ j^[ X_hj^ e\ CJL _d '/.'" a_Zi WdZ j[[di YekbZ dem ÇmWjY^È cki_Y$ J^[ 7k]kij '/.* _iik[ [nY_j[Zbo _d\ehc[Z j^[ _dZkijho e\ j^[ Ckff[j 8WX_[i Z[Xkj ed CJL$ J^[ l_Z[e _dYbkZ[Z :ehej^o F_] D[mjed Ze_d] Wd _dj[hfh[jWj_ed e\ C_Y^W[b @WYaiedÊi cW]_Y b_]^j i_Z[mWba i[]c[dj \hec Ç8_bb_[ @[Wd"È 8WXo F_]]o _d W jh_Xkj[ je ÇMhWff[Z 7hekdZ Oekh <_d][hÈ Xo J^[ Feb_Y[" WdZ W YWc[e Xo C_ii F_]]o Xk_bj WhekdZ j^[ <bWi^ZWdY[ ÇCWd_WYÈ l_Z[e$ 7dZ b[j _j X[ ademd j^Wj _Yedi e\ j^[ Ê.&i _dYbkZ_d] j^[ @_c >[died ijWhi m[h[ dej i^o WXekj i^em_d] e\\ j^[_h ijob[" m_j^ beji e\ ifWhab[i" XebZ ^k[i WdZ X_] ^W_hÆ(* ^ekhi W ZWo$ 7dZ _j mWidÊj `kij j^[ ÊZei e\ j^[ Z[YWZ[ j^Wj iaoheYa[j[Z$ Cel_[i m[h[ X[_d] cWZ[ m_j^ XkZ][ji X_]][h j^Wd j^[ =DF e\ icWbb dWj_edi$ <_bci YekbZ dem X[ l_[m[Z Wj ^ec[ ki_d] j^[ _dYh[Wi_d]bo kX_gk_jeki L9H$ <Wi^_edÊi \Wleh_j[ Óbc Y^WhWYj[h5 J^[ h[Z^[WZ[Z ehf^Wd 7dd_[" e\ Yekhi[" m_j^ ^[h YedjW]_eki f[hiedWb_jo WdZ Ykj[io ijob[$ 9WXb[ j[b[l_i_ed Yb[Wd[Z kf JL i_]dWbi" ^[bf_d] j[b[l_i_ed i^emi b_j[hWbbo ÔWkdj \Wi^_ed$ <hec Ç<Wc_bo J_[iÈ je ÇJ^[ 9eiXo I^em"È [o[ YWdZo hkb[Z$ ?d j^[ CWhY^ '/.( _iik[" The Dukes of Hazzard cWZ[ _ji fh[i[dY[ ademd m_j^ XebZ YWcfW_]di \eh j^[_h i[YedZ i[Wied Wi j^[ De$ ' hWj[Z i^em Wced] Y^_bZh[d WdZ j[[di$ JL \Wc_b_[i dejm_j^ijWdZ_d]" h[Wb#b_\[ YbWdi m[h[ kdZ[h]e# _d] Y^Wd][" jee$ :kWb _dYec[i m[h[ X[Yec_d] j^[ dehc" m_j^ ceci WdZ ZWZi `k]]b_d] `eXi WdZ ^ec[cWa_d] je Xh_d] _d ceh[ ced[o$ 9ekfb[i m[h[ mW_j_d] bed][h je ^Wl[ \Wc_b_[i" WdZ m^[d j^[o Z_Z" jme Y^_bZh[d X[YWc[ ceh[ Yecced j^Wd j^h[[ eh ceh[$ <eh j^[ Y^_bZh[dÊi \Wi^_ed _dZkijho" j^[ h[ikbj mWi ceh[ Z_ifeiWXb[ _dYec[ \eh if[dZ_d] ed a_ZiÆW h[jW_b[hÊi Z[b_]^j$ 7YYehZ_d]bo" ceh[ WdZ ceh[ fWh[dji Zh[ii[Z j^[_h Y^_bZh[d _d Z[i_]d[h ZkZi$ J^[ Z[YWZ[ e\ [nY[ii Wbie ]Wl[ h_i[ je j^[ Okff_[ j^[ oekd] kfmWhZbo#ceX_b[ fhe\[ii_edWb " WdZ j^[ _dYh[Wi[Z cWj[h_Wb_ic WdZ Yedikc[h_ic e\ j^[ j_c[ b[Z je W bWX[b#\eYki[Z cWha[j i^_\j$ Ç?j ki[Z je X[ ÉM^[h[ Z_Z oek Xko _j5Ê Dem _jÊi ÉM^ei[ _i _j5ÊÈ [nfbW_d[Z CWho IWha_d Wj I_[X[b Ij[hd \eh Ol[i IW_dj BWkh[dj _d j^[ 7fh_b '/.' _iik[$ J^Wj p[ij \eh [nY[ii e\j[d jhWdibWj[Z _dje el[hi_p[Z \Wi^_ed ijWj[c[dji" Xkj a_ZiÊ Z[i_]d[hi Z_iYel[h[Z j^ei[ i_b^ek[jj[i Z_ZdÊj meha m[bb _d c_d_Wjkh[ _$[$ fWZZ[Z i^ekbZ[hi je ZWh_d] a[o^eb[i $ ?dij[WZ" ifehjim[Wh h[cW_d[Z W ]hem_d] jh[dZ \eh a_Zi m_j^ cWjY^_d] jhWYaik_ji WlW_bWXb[ _d W lWh_[jo e\ Xh_]^j
HAPPY
100
TH
BIRTHDAY
EARNSHAWS!
with love from AT
august 15 – 17 | las vegas convention center
A U G U S T 1 5 - 1 7, 2 0 1 6 (SOURCING AT MAGIC OPENS AUGUST 14)
LAS VEGAS & MANDALAY BAY CONVENTION CENTERS
T E L L YO U R FA S H I O N S T O R Y.
m ag i c o n l i n e . c o m
THE DECADES
1980s
1. A Strawberry Shortcake paradise created by an advertiser to captivate young girls. 2. The monokini made its mark on the decade. 3. Back-to-school season capitalized on the latest trends. 4. Disney continued to prevail as a licensing powerhouse. 5. The April 1980 issue cover gears up for back-to-school with a fun illustration. 6. Denim on denim was a fashion statement, not a faux-pas.
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“Strawberry Shortcake’s instant success is also the understanding of children and comprehensive children’s marketing program. In only 2 years, she’s already had TV specials and a float in the Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade!” March 1982
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“As you see a lessening of the Mom and Pop stores, you’ll see a simultaneous rise of specialty chains”
7
April 1980
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7. Vans were on the rise as a hip brand for tweens. 8. Matching sweatsuits in fun colors were a necessity in comfort and style. 9. The trouser jean made its way into the fashion scene. 10. The popular brand Weather Tamer nailed outerwear with trend right colors and prints. 11. Sportswear was a growing trend.
10
Yebehi$ ?djWhi_W im[Wj[hi m[h[ W ckij" e\j[d fW_h[Z m_j^ Z[d_c j^Wj ifehj[Z d[m feYa[j jh[Wjc[dji WdZ i_b^ek[jj[i \eh j^[ Z[YWZ[$ Ç8W]]_[i Wh[ ij_bb i^em_d] _d j^[ Y^_bZh[dÊi cWha[j Xkj j^[ jheki[h `[Wd _i j^[ i^Wf[ je mWjY^"È ijWj[Z W jh[dZ h[fehj \hec j^[ 7fh_b '/.& _iik[$ 9ehZkheoi Zec_dWj[Z Yebb[Yj_edi" m_j^ `Wppo ^WhZmWh[ _j[ci WZehd_d] feYa[ji" b[]i WdZ Ybeikh[i$ <eh ikcc[h" j^[ Çcedea_d_È mWi _djheZkY[ZÆW ed[#f_[Y[ XWj^_d] ik_j m_j^ Ykjekji _d j^[ c_Zi[Yj_ed" X[bel[Z Xo jm[[di Xkj dej W \Wleh_j[ e\ fWh[dji$ 7dZ ^em m[ i^eff[Z Y^Wd][Z$ J^[ d[m ÇcW_d ijh[[jÈ mWi j^[ cWbb0 W j[cf[hWjkh[ Yedjhebb[Z ieY_Wb [nf[h_c[dj m_j^ W Yebb[Yj_ed e\ if[Y_Wbjo Y^W_di" \Wij \eeZ" ]WZ][ji" WdZ ]_\ji$ J^[ Ê.&i Wbie ^[hWbZ[Z W fki^ \eh Yh[Wj_l[ iekhY_d] WdZ Z_ijh_Xkj_ed$ M_j^ ceh[ Z[cWdZ" XhWdZi beea[Z \eh mWoi je cWdk\WYjkh[ ceh[ [\ÓY_[djbo" m^_Y^ e\j[d _dYbkZ[Z el[hi[Wi ef[hWj_edi$ ?d j^[ CWhY^ '/.. _iik[" Earnshaw’s [nWc_d[Z j^_i f^[dec[ded$ 7YYehZ_d] je 9Wb_XWi^ Fh[i_Z[dj" Ij[l[d IY^mWhjp" ÇM[ ^WZ W c_ii_ed— W h[ifedi_X_b_jo je ekh cWha[j dej `kij _d j[hci e\ iWb[i WdZ c[hY^WdZ_i_d]" Xkj Wbie _d iekhY_d]" je ikffbo W Yedj_dkeki WdZ [nY[bb[dj Ôem e\ c[hY^WdZ_i[ _dje ekh mWh[^eki[i WdZ edje ekh Ykijec[hi$È IY^mWhjp if[dj j^[ [Whb_[h ^Wb\ e\ j^[ Z[YWZ[ h[ijhkYjkh_d] j^[ YecfWdo WdZ ikYY[ii\kbbo d[]ej_Wj_d] ckbj_#iekhY_d] WhhWd][c[dji j^hek]^ekj j^[ mehbZ ie j^Wj j^[ YecfWdo emdi eh ^Wi fWhj_Y_fWj_ed _d gkejW emd[hi^_f _d lWh_eki fWhji e\ 7i_W WdZ 9Wh_XX[Wd XWi_d$ —E.B.
11
( & ' , 7 F H ? B % C 7O ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C 4 9
THE DECADES
1990s 1
PARENT TRAP From the rise of technology to the lure of licensing, you can be sure ’90s youngsters had an opinion. 2
3 1. Popular book and TV series Goosebumps made its way into apparel. 2. Barbie expanded its offerings far beyond the doll itself. 3. Lindsay Lohan modeled for the March 1996 fashion feature. 4. The Paddington Bear license appeared in everything from pullovers to plush. 5. MLB and Looney Tunes apparel made for the best of both worlds.
4
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“The selling of the environment may make the cholesterol craze look like a Sunday school picnic.” March 1990 5 0 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C 7 F H ? B % C 7 O ( & ' ,
F
ROM WILDLY COLORED duds to an abundance of fashion footwear, Xo j^[ Ê/&i _j mWi WffWh[dj j^Wj youngsters were no longer taking a fWii_l[ ijWdY[ _d j^[_h Wff[WhWdY[$ “Childrenswear is a fashion-forward industry,” declared one editor in the @kd[ '//& _iik[$ ÇDe bed][h W @e^ddo#Yec[#bWj[bo je \Wi^_ed jh[dZi$È 9edi[gk[djbo" WYj_l[m[Wh Yedj_dk[Z je i[[ ZhWij_Y [nfWdi_ed" \[[Z_d] _dje a_ZiÊ YhWl_d] \eh ifehjo ijh_f[i WdZ ][ec[jh_Y fh_dji ed [l[hoj^_d] \hec i^ehji je m_dZXh[Wa[hi$ Ed j^[ ej^[h [dZ e\ j^[ \Wi^_ed if[Yjhkc" j^[ ^eeZ[Z fbW_Z ÔWdd[b i^_hj X[YWc[ W ijWfb[ for the iconic grunge look. When they weren’t trying on the decade’s big jh[dZi" jeji bel[Z je ifehj j^[_h \Wleh_j[ Y^WhWYj[hi WdZ j^[ be]ei e\ j^[_h X[bel[Z j[Wci$ ÇA_Zi Wh[ ]bk[Z je j^[ j[b[l_i_ed iYh[[di j^[i[ ZWoi"È mhej[ Wd Wii_ijWdj [Z_jeh _d j^[ 7k]kij '//) _iik[$ Ç7dZ j^Wj YWd edbo c[Wd ]eeZ j^_d]i Wh[ W^[WZ \eh j^[ cW`eh ijkZ_ei WdZ j^[_h b_Y[di[[i$È M^_b[ ifehji b_Y[di[Z fWhWf^[hdWb_W \hec j^[ D<B je j^[ C87 m[h[ Xeec_d] _d Xeoim[Wh" l_Z[e ]Wc[i" Yec_Yi WdZ j[b[l_i_ed Y^WhWYj[hi b_a[ j^[ N#C[d" Ikf[h CWh_e 8hej^[hi WdZ Beed[o Jkd[i Wbie fhel[Z fefkbWh \eh j^[ Z[YWZ[$ ?d '//*" I[iWc[ Ijh[[jÊi (+j^ Wdd_l[hiWho c[Wdj j^[ \hWdY^_i[ cWZ[ W ifbWi^ _d Y^_bZh[dÊi WffWh[b" jee$ Beea_d] X[oedZ j^[ ceh[ \h_lebeki jh[dZi e\ b_]^j#kf id[Wa[hi" Y^ea[h d[YabWY[i WdZ fk\\o fW_dj J#i^_hji" Ê/&i Y^_bZh[dim[Wh cWha[Z j^[ X[]_dd_d] e\ jeZWoÊi [Ye#\h_[dZbo cel[c[dj$ ?d 7fh_b '//&" j^[ (&j^ Wdd_l[hiWho e\ ;Whj^ :Wo b_\j[Z j^[ ijWjki e\ [dl_hedc[djWb _iik[i edje j^[ mehbZ ijW][$ 9bej^ Z_Wf[hi h[[c[h][Z _d j^[ [Whbo Ê/&i" m_j^ Cej^[h[Wi[ X[_d] ed[ e\ j^[ b[WZ_d] ikffb_[hi j^hek]^ekj 9WdWZW WdZ j^[ KI7$ ?d WffWh[b" d[kjhWb ^k[i e\ eWjc[Wb" ceii ]h[[d" igk_hh[b ]hWo" Y^[ijdkj WdZ a^Wa_ cWZ[ kf W ikXZk[Z" [Whj^o Yebeh fWb[jj[$ <WXh_YWj_edi
Kidâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Dream
When I grow up, I want to be...
MADE IN LOS ANGELES
Madam President! IamGIRL Collection Graphic Print Dresses Kid's Dream SS 2017
Children's Casual Wear Launching Spring 2017
www.KidsDreamUS.com @kidsdreamus
www.ChewyandCat.com
THE DECADES
1990s
“Ecology is still important in European designs, usually with badges and catch phrases, but harvest colors are clues as well with shades of olive green setting the standard.” March 1990
2
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were diverse, including cotton twills, denims, fleece and jerseys, often adorned with nature motifs (whether printed or appliquéd) to create a sophisticated ecological statement. (Even more [nY_j_d]5 8ej^ B_dZiWo Be^Wd WdZ C_iY^W 8Whjed modeled some of these trends for Earnshaw’s in j^[ Ê/&i Since the beginning of the decade, childrenswear was a prosperous department for many major retailers. Discounters and specialty chains were aggressively pulling in business, leaving The Big J^h[[ I[Whi" Cedj]ec[ho MWhZ WdZ @9 F[dd[o to adopt specialty store strategies to hold the attention of the childrenswear consumer. “Many independents feel they are squeezed by the price competition on the one hand and branded comf[j_j_ed ed j^[ ej^[h"È ed[ [nf[hj [nfbW_d[Z$ Ç?d many cases, their chance for survival depends on specific and carefully edited niche marketing as well as service with a capital S.” Sophisticated style for youngsters—as baby boomers looked to dress their kids like miniadults—continued to increase, giving stores like J^[ =Wf WdZ J^[ B_c_j[Z W dWjkhWb WZlWdjW][ _d j^[ h[jW_b cWha[j$ Ç?jÊi j^[ m^eb[ =Wf j^_d]"È ed[ i^ef emd[h Yecc[dj[Z _d j^[ EYjeX[h '//( _iik[$ Ç? \[[b b_a[ _j cWa[i Wbb j^[ a_Zi beea b_a[ Ybed[i$È The decade’s shoppers also gravitated toward lWbk[$ 8o '//&" MWbcWhj ^WZ X[Yec[ j^[ bWh][ij U.S. retailer by volume.) While new and differ[dj fheZkYji Zhel[ fkhY^Wi[i _d j^[ Ê.&i" _d j^[ Ê/&i" ceci fh[\[hh[Z je i^ef _d fbWY[i j^Wj m[h[
5
1. Americana bandanas and denims took to European runways. 2. Florals capitalized on the decade’s nature motif. 3. The October 1992 cover depicted florals as a growing trend. 4. FIMI models flaunt country plaids, playful patchwork and bandanainspired headwear for Spring ’93. 5. The rough ‘n’ tough look was no stranger to the ’90s.
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convenient, fully stocked at all times, low in price and offered the latest trends, all under one roof. “Large and small retailers alike are finding themselves against a tremendous fullprice revolt among the nation’s consumer,” the May 1995 editor’s letter noted. And in a harbinger of the Internet revolution to come, the rise of the computer continued to affect the industry. Computers equipped with CD-ROM drives rose nearly 50 percent in 1994, according to a study in the May 1995 issue. “We found that when the kids get to be about three they stop going to our Lil’ Land toy section and race over to the computer section,” said the vice president of merchandising at Dallas-based Lil’ Things. As a result, the chain was selling nearly 30 CD-ROM titles for 3- to 4-year-olds at the time. In fact, the CD-ROM replaced the bedtime story in many households. “By the time these kids are five, they are like little whizzes,” exclaimed an executive of Langer Associates. “Today [instead of a bedtime story], the child looks up an entry in the encyclopedia on the computer.” (Think that’s fun? Just wait until the discovery of YouTube and BuzzFeed down the road.) —E.B.
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“The bumper crop of 4 million-plus births over each of the last five years could have the children’s wear industry resting on fertile ground for years to come.” May 1995
THE DECADES
2000s
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POINT AND CLICK
1. Can he fix it? Yes, he can! Bob the Builder made his way into apparel along with many other Nick, Jr. favorites. 2 & 3. A nod to vintage fashion with fedora hats and tie-dye prints. 4. Harry Potter was quick to cast his spell on the decade. 5. An advertisement for ENK Children’s Club exuded patriotism after the 9/11 attack.
The Internet revolution rocked the childrenswear industry in the new millennium.
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“I can’t remember what I was going to write about for this month’s letter; all problems and issues prior to Tuesday, September 11 seem to have vanished... I will never forget the eerie quiet, interrupted only by the sound of emergency vehicles, and the trance-like state of people on the street.” October 2001
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ITH PLENTY OF angst and excitement preceding the turn of the milb[dd_kc" ÇO(AÈ Whh_l[Z without incident. Forecasts of major computer crashes and transportation failures d[l[h YWc[ je \hk_j_ed$ ?dij[WZ" j^[ d[m c_bb[dd_kc was met with a robust U.S. economy and high hopes \eh j^[ \kjkh[$ ?d j^[ Y^_bZh[dim[Wh _dZkijho" j^[ licensing bonanza continued. The newest kid on j^[ XbeYa mWi >Whho Fejj[h" j^[ Xeo m_pWhZ m^e captured the imagination of the world (and lots of dollars along the way). Another child of the new century? Nick Jr. The children’s network spawned from parent Nickelodeon, and introduced more bebel[Z Y^WhWYj[hi j^Wj cWZ[ j^[_h mWo edje Y^_bZh[dÊi garments and accessories including Blues Clues, Dora the Explorer and Bob the Builder. Sadly, the upbeat start to the century was shortb_l[Z$ Ed I[fj[cX[h ''" (&&'" j[hheh_ij WjjWYai ed j^[ MehbZ JhWZ[ 9[dj[h WdZ j^[ F[djW]ed YbW_c[Z j^[ b_l[i e\ j^ekiWdZi e\ f[efb[$ B[WZ[hi _d j^[ Y^_bZh[dÊi _dZkijho hWbb_[Z je][j^[h je fhel_Z[ ikffehj je W Z[lWijWj[Z dWj_ed$ 9ecfWd_[i b_a[ Meebh_Y^" PkjWde" Ei^Aei^ 8Ê=ei^" WdZ M_ff[jj[ Z[l[bef[Z mWoi je ikffehj l_Yj_ciÊ \Wc_b_[i WdZ j^[ dWj_ed Wi W m^eb[$ <eh _dijWdY[" _d b_[k e\ Ei^Aei^ 8Ê=ei^Êi h[]kbWh WZl[hj_i_d] YWcfW_]d" j^[ YecfWdo e\\[h[Z messages of solidarity and hope. For its holiday campaign on the Times Square board, the company had created a simple message in a childlike scrawl j^Wj h[WZ0 ÇJ^Wda Oek D[m Oeha$ ;l[ho Y^_bZ d[[Zi W ^[he$È ?d j^[ EYjeX[h (&&' _iik[" Ei^Aei^ 8Ê=ei^ CEO Doug Hyde recalls, “We wanted these concepts je if[Wa je j^[ [l[dji e\ I[fj[cX[h ''" WYademb[Z]_d] j^[ fW_d X[_d] \[bj _d D[m Oeha" m^_b[ Z[b_l[h_d] W c[iiW][ e\ efj_c_ic$È J^[ _dZkijho f[hi[l[h[Z WdZ \Wi^_ed fhel_Z[Z W bright spot for many Americans. Since the call-toWYj_ed _d j^[ Ê/&i" Ç]e_d] ]h[[dÈ ]W_d[Z i_]d_ÓYWdj jhWYj_ed _d j^[ (&&&i$ J^[ d[m[ij YhWp[5 8WcXee products. Dubbed eco-friendly, the material made its way into an array of products, from bibs to blankets, fWhj_YkbWhbo bWj[h _d j^[ Z[YWZ[$ 8[]_dd_d] _d (&&/" ^em[l[h" j^[ <J9 X[]Wd f[dWb_p_d] YecfWd_[i \eh failing to clarify that the material was actually rayon made from bamboo—an important distinction since
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THE DECADES
2000s
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“While e-commerce players often bemoan the reality that customers can visit or depart a Web site with a single mouse click, others are embracing that ease of navigation to stroke sales.” October 2001
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1. The February 2004 cover capitalized on old school vintage looks like plaid skirts and legwarmers. 2. Graphic tees layered with long-sleeves caused kiddies to jump for joy. 3. Several articles taught industry figures how to become virtually savvy. 4. Punk chic was a common vibe of tween collections. 5. Barbie was (and still is) adored across apparel, accessories and beyond. 6. A fashion feature shoot in 2008 took place at a miniature horse farm. 7. A punk-chic fashion feature shot at the Metropolitan House. 8. Nautical stayed afloat as a timeless trend. 5 6 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C 7 F H ? B % C 7 O ( & ' ,
processing bamboo often leads to a bigger eco-footprint.) The decade’s biggest trends were inspired Xo W h[jhe h[ikh][dY[$ ?d j^[ <[XhkWho (&&* issue, a back-to-school fashion feature showed designers taking “vintage aesthetic that makes fresh-off-the-rack pieces look and feel like broken-in favorites.” Retro references to j^[ Ê+&i WdZ Ê,&i" \hec lWhi_jo dkcX[hi je faded madras plaids, joined lush satin, velour, corduroy and fur accents in dimensional, bWo[h[Z beeai$ <eh jm[[di" cWdo Yebb[Yj_edi embraced a rebellious edge, taking cues from British punk rock style and graphic patterns cWZ[ fefkbWh _d j^[ Ê.&i$ The industry’s biggest shift, however, had little to do with fashion. The rise of the ?dj[hd[j ki^[h[Z _d W d[m [hW e\ cWha[j_d]" merchandising and retailing. By the end of
the decade, a website was a necessity for successful retailers, and e-commerce had become an established way of buying and selling. In the August 2000 issue, the CEO of fashionbyauction.com, noted, “The Internet, especially in the B2B arena, is revolutionizing every industry because of the cost and time efficiencies it provides.” The stock market crash in 2008, and the Great Recession that followed, presented the childrenswear industry with another big challenge. “With reports of unprecedented drops in the stock market and economic bailouts dominating the news, it’s no wonder there’s little else on anyone’s mind,” stated an editor in the November 2008 issue. In fact, the crash turned out to be the true test for several Earnie award contenders, as retailers’ admitted to choosing the 2008 winners by weighing their composure regarding service, consistency and quality amid the difficult times. “The larger vendors understand that cycles have ups and downs,” said one retailer. “And the best way to keep business afloat is to keep the customers you have.” —E.B.
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THE DECADES
2010s 1
1. Little ones’ casual clothing today is decidedly pet-friendly. 2. Kids are as sweet—and sassy—as ever. 3. A classic denim jacket never goes out of style. 4. The cover of our September 2015 issue reflects the futuristic era.
SOCIAL NETWORK Enter the era of the smartphone, where shoppers literally hold the future in the palms of their hands.
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“Facebook isn’t just for finding high school flames and playing Farmville anymore—for a growing number of users, the ubiquitous social network is the latest place to find toys and apparel for their tots.” June 2011
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F THERE IS one take-away from the pages of Earnshaw’s in our current decade, it’s that absolutely anything and everything goes. Our stories have mentioned everything from baby yoga to 3D printing, the Kardashian clan and even a trend page \eh a_Zi _d ekh Del%:[Y Ê') _iik[ Z[Z_YWj[Z je Wd oft-discussed Millennial demographic—the hipster. Earnshaw’s may still wink at tradition (recall the editors’ [nY_j[c[dj ikhhekdZ_d] j^[ heoWb XWXo YhWp[ _d (&') " Xkj the larger themes of the decade are unmistakably modern and, unequivocally, our own. What has changed most is the rapidly evolving digital space. ?d (&'' ekh fkXb_i^[h" De[bb[ >[\\[hdWd" mhej[0 ÇM[bYec[ je Earnshaw’s )$&0 M[Êh[ e\\[h_d] fW][ jkhd[hi WdZ fW][ im_f[i j^_i ikcc[h m_j^ ekh d[m _FWZ Wff$È 7 \[m cedj^i bWj[h" Earnshaw’s reported that, in an increasingly digital world, [l[d hkdmWo i^emiÆÇ\ehc[hbo j^[ XWij_edi e\ \Wi^_ed [Z_jehi WdZ _dZkijho ce]kbiÈÆm[h[ cel_d] je j^[ m[X" m^[h[ Wdoed[ ÇYWd Y^[Ya ekj j^[ bWj[ij ^_]^#[dZ Z[i_]di$È That same year, the magazine’s now-editor-in-chief, Audrey =eeZied A_d]e Y_j[Z j^Wj .& f[hY[dj e\ ceci _d 7c[h_YW ki[Z some type of social media. Our best guess? Since then, numX[hi Wh[ b_a[bo je ^Wl[ ]hemd [l[d ^_]^[h$ 8o (&'+" Earnshaw’s h[fehj[Z j^Wj W i_cfb[ =ee]b[ i[WhY^ e\ j^[ mehZ Çijhebb[hÈ jkhd[Z kf el[h *&"&&&"&&& ^_ji$ 7dZ j^[ [Z_jeh#_d#Y^_[\ iW_Z that after more than two years of interviewing the industry’s most inspiring leaders for her monthly Q&A, she had come to the conclusion that all of these people had one thing in comced0 ÇDe ed[ YWd b_l[ m_j^ekj Wd _F^ed[$È Je ^[bf h[jW_b[hi and manufacturers keep up in a rapidly evolving digital era, the magazine’s feature articles provide advice on everything \hec j^[ Xkh][ed_d] fefkbWh_jo e\ ?dijW]hWc ]_l[WmWoi je making the most of mobile commerce. Early issues of Earnshaw’s may have touted pink as the Yebeh \eh Xeoi" WdZ Xbk[ Wi j^[ Yebeh \eh ]_hbi" Xkj _d (&'*" Goodson Kingo explained that this rigid kind of mentality is i_cfbo de bed][h j^[ YWi[$ I^[ mhej[0 ÇIec[ b_jjb[ ]_hbi bel[ j^[ freedom of slacks and sneakers, while others won’t leave the ^eki[ m_j^ekj ifehj_d] Wj b[Wij ed[ hk\Ô[$ ?\ j^[h[Êi Wdo hkb[ _d ]_hbiÊ \Wi^_ed j^[i[ ZWoi" _jÊi j^_i0 J^hem j^[ hkb[Xeea ekj j^[ m_dZem$È 7dZ j^[ ][dZ[h#X[dZ_d] jh[dZ [nj[dZi ckY^ farther than just the playground. A year later, the magazine noted that Millennial dads were stepping-up and taking on a bWh][h heb[ _d Y^_bZ#h[Wh_d]$ ÇJ^[oÊh[ fbWdd_d] ceh[ fbWoZWj[i" Y^Wd]_d] ceh[ Z_Wf[hi" WdZ Ze_d] ceh[ ]heY[ho i^eff_d]"È wrote the author.
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7 1. Defying gravity is the ultimate cool. 2. Layering is key for kids’ ever-changing activities. 3. Bad hair day? Nothing a statement hat can’t fix. 4. Fashion is inspired by all corners of the globe. 5. Childrenswear has seen many faces. 6. Earnshaw’s has managed to make quite a few friends throughout its history. 7. Casual, breezy clothing means kids aren’t afraid to get their hands dirty. 8. Earnshaw’s is beloved for its award-winning photography. 6 0 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C 7 F H ? B % C 7 O ( & ' ,
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Today, Earnshaw’s spreads are notably diverse, multicultural and inclusive in keeping with the evolving American spirit and an ever-shrinking world. Of course, globalization provides a wealth of opportunity as well as a host of challenges: In 2011, the magazine reported that cotton had hit a historic high at $2.30 per pound in midFebruary speculated to be due to greater demand from China’s expanding middle class and weak crops across the globe, pointing to examples like flooding in Pakistan and freezing weather in China. But by 2014, Earnshaw’s had noted that American-made products were making a comeback, which feels particularly relevant in the wake of lead and other concerns out of China. And of course the industry’s shift to an increasingly digital landscape has come with a few definite downsides, especially for independent retailers, who struggle to compete with online giants like Amazon and, occasionally, their own manufacturers, who continue to shift toward direct-toconsumer sales. Despite the challenges, the childrenswear industry continues to persevere. As the magazine’s editors have noted over the years: Babies will continue to be born. Kids will always need clothing. And moms will always love their little ones—and love indulging them, too. So, here’s to the industry that’s helped Earnshaw’s chronicle the most memorable fashions and innovative leaders in childrenswear, for 100 years and counting. —L.O.
“If Alice had an iPhone, she could have used GPS to navigate her way out of Wonderland, but alas not even Lewis Carroll could have imagined a world full of mindboggling apps.” July 2013
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BEHIND THE SEAMS
INDUSTRY ICONS
Power Forward
Some things become better with age. These industryleading brands have stood the test of time—continuing to evolve and innovate the very best products for children. Clockwise from top: S. Goldberg’s office (1924); SG Companies’ current showroom (2016); S. Goldberg’s packing department (1951).
From slipper manufacturer to licensing legend, SG Companies has stayed ahead of the game for 120 years and counting.
FOUNDED IN 1896
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HEN AMBITIOUS YOUNG D[m Oeha[h IWc =ebZX[h] ef[d[Z W ib_ff[h cWdk\WYjkh_d] \WY_b_jo _d CWd^WjjWd _d './," ZkXX_d] j^[ YecfWdo I$ =ebZX[h]" ^[ fheXWXbo d[l[h _cW]_d[Z j^[ Xki_d[ii mekbZ ed[ ZWo ]hem je W ckbj_#dWj_edWb ef[hWj_ed m_j^ el[h -& \WYjeh_[i WhekdZ j^[ mehbZ$ H[dWc[Z I= 9ecfWd_[i _d (&&." =ebZX[h]Êi b[]WYo _i _dZ[[Z WijekdZ_d]0 ÇM[Êl[ iebZ el[h W X_bb_ed fW_hi e\ \eejm[Wh"È iWoi Ykhh[dj Fh[i_Z[dj WdZ 9;E 8[hd_[ B[_\[h$ ÇJ^WjÊi W fh[jjo Wijhedec_YWb dkcX[h$È JeZWo" I= e\\[hi Wd WhhWo e\ \eejm[Wh WdZ WffWh[b \eh c[d" mec[d WdZ Y^_bZh[d WYheii [WY^ e\ _ji \ekh Z_l_i_edi$ M_j^ _ji heeji _d \eejm[Wh" a_ZiÊ i^e[i m[h[ dWjkhWbbo j^[ \_hij Y^_bZh[dÊi fheZkYj j^[ YecfWdo _djheZkY[Z$ J^[d" _d j^[ bWj[ '/*&i" j^[ YecfWdo cWZ[ _ji \_hij \ehWo _dje b_Y[di[Z \eejm[Wh j^Wdai je W fWhjd[hi^_f m_j^ Yekdjho#m[ij[hd i_d][h WdZ WYjeh Heo He][hi$ ÇCo ]hWdZY^_bZh[d j^_da j^WjÊi W \Wij \eeZ h[ijWkhWdj"È B[_\[h Y^kYab[i$ J^Wj \_hij Z[Wb fhel[Z fhef^[j_Y0 I= fh[i[djbo emdi j^[ h_]^ji je ceh[ j^Wd )& b_Y[di[i" _dYbkZ_d] ^eki[^ebZ dWc[i b_a[ B[]e" MWhd[h 8hei$" I[iWc[ Ijh[[j WdZ :eYa[hi$ CkY^ e\ j^[ Yh[Z_j \eh j^Wj ikYY[ii YWd X[ Y^Wba[Z kf je B[_\[h" m^e X[YWc[ 9;E e\ j^[ YecfWdo _d '/.+ WdZ mWi ed[ e\ j^[ \_hij _dZkijho [n[Ykj_l[i je Wdj_Y_fWj[ j^[ fefkbWh_jo e\ Y^WhWYj[h \eejm[Wh \eh Y^_bZh[d$ 8[\eh[ I=Êi [nfWdi_ed _dje j^[ cWha[j" _j mWi hWh[ je ifej C_Ya[o eh CWh_e ed W a_ZÊi \eej$ 7YYehZ_d]bo" B[_\[hÊi Yedjh_Xkj_ed je j^[ YWj[]eho [Whd[Z ^_c W Yel[j[Z ifej _d B?C7Êi B_Y[di_d] ?dZkijho >Wbb e\ <Wc[ Wbed]i_Z[ dWc[i b_a[ MWbj :_id[o" =[eh][ BkYWi WdZ @_c >[died$ M^_b[ Wffhen_cWj[bo -+ f[hY[dj e\ j^[ YecfWdoÊi Ykhh[dj h[l[dk[ 6 2 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C 7 F H ? B % C 7 O ( & ' ,
Yec[i \hec \eejm[Wh iWb[i" j^[ h[ij Yec[i \hec WffWh[b$ ?d \WYj" _j mWi edbo '' o[Whi W]e j^Wj I= mWZ[Z _dje j^[ Y^Wbb[d]_d] mehbZ e\ Y^_bZh[dÊi Ybej^[i$ ÇM[ ijWhj[Z Xo cWa_d] fW`WcWi" Xen[h i^ehji WdZ ej^[h Yec\o Wjj_h["È iWoi B[_\[h$ ÇI^ehjbo W\j[h" m[ [dZ[Z kf ][jj_d] j^[ b_Y[di[ \eh >Whb[o :Wl_Zied Y^_bZh[dÊi WffWh[b [nYbki_l[bo mehbZm_Z[$È J^_i fhef[bb[Z j^[ YecfWdo _dje fheZkY_d] el[h '&& IAKi e\ >Whb[o :Wl_Zied fheZkYj" \hec i^_hji WdZ ikd]bWii[i je X_Xi WdZ XWYafWYai$ ÇM[ ^Wl[ W fh[jjo _cfh[ii_l[ heij[h e\ b_Y[di[i dem WdZ _j a[[fi ]hem_d]"È B[_\[h ikci kf$ J^[ i[Yh[j je j^Wj ]hemj^5 7bmWoi Wdj_Y_fWj[ m^WjÊi je Yec[" ^[ [nfbW_di$ ÇM[Êh[ jho_d] je Ze j^_i icWhj"È ^[ iWoi$ Ç7dZ oek ^Wl[ je X[ ed[ ij[f W^[WZ je X[ h[b[lWdj$È J^_i Y^Wbb[d][ _i edbo ][jj_d] ^WhZ[h" ^[ dej[i$ ÇOek YWdÊj ]e WmWo \eh W bed] m[[a[dZ Wdoceh[$ J^[ mehbZ _i Y^Wd]_d] ie hWf_Zbo$È Ed[ [nWcfb[5 JeZWoÊi Ykijec[h _i ceh[ [ZkYWj[Z j^Wd [l[h" WdZ Y^_bZh[d Wh[ _dYh[Wi_d]bo _dlebl[Z _d j^[ fkhY^Wi[ fheY[ii Wi YecfWh[Z je o[Whi W]e$ ÇJeZWoÊi j^h[[ o[Wh ebZ _i W fh[j[[d Wbh[WZo È Je ][j j^[ _di_Z[ iYeef ed j^[ a_ZiÊ _dZkijho" j^[ 9;E WZc_ji je f_Ya_d] j^[ XhW_di e\ ^_i [_]^j ]hWdZY^_bZh[d$ ÇJ^[ j^h[[ o[Wh ebZÆ? cWa[ ikh[ ^[ ib[[fi el[h Wj b[Wij edY[ W m[[a"È B[_\[h bWk]^i$ @ea[i Wi_Z[" j^[ a_Zi fhel_Z[ W m[Wbj^ e\ _d\ehcWj_ed ed [l[hoj^_d] \hec kf#WdZ#Yec_d] fhef[hj_[i je fefkbWh Yebehi$ Beea_d] \ehmWhZ" B[_\[h fhec_i[i ceh[ [nY_j_d] [nfWdi_edi _d j^[ f_f[b_d[$ ÇM[ ^Wl[ W cW`eh j^_d] j^Wj _i jWa_d] fbWY["È ^[ ^_dji" WZZ_d] j^Wj _ji ed[ e\ j^[ X_]][ij jh[dZi \eh (&',$ 7dZ de" _jÊi dej b_Y[di[Z Ç? YWdÊj iWo m^Wj X[YWki[ _j ^WidÊj X[[d i^_ff[Z o[j" Xkj m[ Wh[ ]e_d] je ^ef[\kbbo X[ j^[ \_hij ekj j^[h[ _d W l[ho X_] mWo$È ?j mekbZdÊj X[ j^[ \_hij j_c[ j^[ '(&#o[Wh#oekd] YecfWdo cWdW][Z je ijWo ed[ ij[f W^[WZÆWdZ Y^WdY[i Wh[ _j medÊj X[ j^[ bWij$ —Emily Beckman
Good Taste With a long-respected name and reputation for innovation, Gerber continues to satisfy its customers’ appetites.
A Gerber footwear ad from the ’70s.
FOUNDED IN 1927
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HEN IT COMES to infant industry icons, it’s hard je _cW]_d[ W XhWdZ m_j^ W X_]][h dWc[ j^Wd =[hX[h$ In addition to outsized spots on supermarket shelves across the country, the company quite literally invented j^[ Ed[i_[$ ÇM[Êh[ l[ho \ehjkdWj[ je ^Wl[ WYgk_h[Z and worked with such a well-known, trusted baby brand that boasts 100-percent brand recognition in the marketplace,” acknowledges =[hX[h 9^_bZh[dim[Wh Fh[i_Z[dj WdZ 9;E =Who I_ccedi$ ÇJ^[ Gerber baby head has worldwide recognition, and for generations moms have trusted Gerber for their baby’s first 1,500 days of life—[in YWj[]eh_[iS \hec \ehckbW WdZ \eeZ je ib[[fm[Wh WdZ Ybej^ Z_Wf[hi$È Before the company’s foray into apparel, it all began with food—baby \eeZ" if[Y_\_YWbbo$ J^[ XhWdZ mWi \ekdZ[Z _d '/(- _d <h[cedj" C?" Xo :Wd_[b <hWda =[hX[h" m^e fheZkY[Z YWdd[Z \hk_j WdZ l[][jWXb[i Wi j^[ emd[h e\ j^[ <h[cedj 9Wdd_d] 9ecfWdo$ =[hX[hÊi m_\[" :ehej^o" began making hand-strained food for their seven-month-old daughter, IWbbo" Wj j^[ h[Yecc[dZWj_ed e\ j^[_h f[Z_Wjh_Y_Wd$ Ifejj_d] W Xki_d[ii opportunity, Gerber began making baby food: beef vegetable soup WdZ ijhW_d[Z f[Wi" fhkd[i" YWhheji WdZ if_dWY^$ 7i \eh j^Wj WZehWXb[ jej ]hWY_d] j^[ \hedj e\ j^[ YecfWdoÊi `Whi WdZ ej^[h fheZkYji5 >[h dWc[ _i 7dd Jkhd[h 9eea" WdZ i^[ jkhdi .& j^_i o[Wh$ 9Wf_jWb_p_d] ed _ji cWha[j h[Ye]d_j_ed m_j^ ceci" X[jm[[d '/.& WdZ '/.," j^[ =[hX[h FheZkYji 9ecfWdo fkhY^Wi[Z \ekh YecfWd_[i j^Wj fheZkY[Z Y^_bZh[dÊi ib[[fm[Wh WdZ kdZ[hm[Wh$ 8o '/./" =[hX[h 9^_bZh[dim[Wh mWi \ehc[Z m_j^ e\\_Y[i _d 8eijed WdZ D[m Oeha 9_jo$ It was during that time that Gerber’s famous one-piece underwear, j^[ Ed[i_[" mWi _djheZkY[Z$ ÇJeZWo" el[h ++ c_bb_ed Ed[i_[i XhWdZ units are sold at retail every year and it continues to be a key item Zh_l[h _d j^[ XWXo Z[fWhjc[dj \eh ki"È I_ccedi dej[i$
During the past three decades, the company has weathered various challenges—from moving manufacturing overseas to maintaining pricing during the Great Recession, when market prices on cotjed iaoheYa[j[Z$ ?d f[h^Wfi Wdej^[h i_]d e\ j^[ j_c[i" ÇYkhh[dj day pricing is over 35 percent lower than what was charged in '//'"È I_ccedi dej[i$ J^hek]^ _j Wbb" j^[ YecfWdo ^Wi h[cW_d[Z committed to meeting the needs of moms around the globe—a mission that’s become both easier and more complex, thanks to j^[ WZl[dj e\ j^[ ?dj[hd[j$ ÇJ[Y^debe]o ^Wi Y^Wd][Z j^[ _dZkijho" allowing anyone access to purchases or research no matter where j^[o Wh[ ki_d]ÆceX_b[" jWXb[j eh Yecfkj[hi"È I_ccedi [nfbW_di$ Ç9edl[d_[dY[" gk_Ya Z[b_l[ho" gkWb_jo fheZkYji WdZ lWbk[ fh_Y[i _i m^WjÊi d[[Z[Z _d jeZWoÊi _dZkijho$È Ed j^Wj dej[" i[l[hWb e\ =[hX[hÊi h[Y[dj h[b[Wi[i ^Wl[ X[[d W ^_j$ ?d Ifh_d] Ê'+" j^[ YecfWdo bWkdY^[Z W =[hX[h =hWZkWj[i jeZZb[h WffWh[b b_d[ e\ c_n ÉdÊ cWjY^ i[fWhWj[i" _d i_p[i '( cedj^i je +J$ J^_i \Wbb cWhai j^[ bWkdY^ e\ W =[hX[h 7bb#?d#Ed[ :_Wf[h Ioij[c Ç\eh \Wc_b_[i m^e Wh[ Yeij#YediY_eki Wi m[bb Wi ieY_Wbbo h[ifedi_Xb[È " WdZ \kjkh[ seasons will offer more bedding and safe sleep products, thanks to j^[ h[Y[dj WYgk_i_j_ed e\ Jh_Xehe Gk_bj CWdk\WYjkh_d] 9ecfWdo$ 7dZ I_ccedi fb[Z][i ceh[ [nY_j_d] fheZkYji je Yec[" Wi j^[ YecfWdo uses social media and today’s digital technology to stay in tune with jeZWoÊi c_bb[dd_Wb ceci$ ÇKj_b_p_d] h[i[WhY^ WdZ WdWboj_Yi Wi m[bb as listening to our consumers and making sure our product, quality WdZ fh_Y[ Wh[ c[[j_d] j^[_h [l[h#Y^Wd]_d] d[[Zi _i a[o"È ^[ WZZi$ ÇA[[f_d] WXh[Wij e\ j[Y^debe]_[i" Ykhh[dj m_j^ cWha[j jh[dZi WdZ developing strong relationships with our overseas suppliers and our retail partners are keys to our success as a company and a brand and ekh ]hemj^ _d j^[ cWha[jfbWY[$È —Audrey Goodson Kingo ( & ' , 7 F H ? B % C 7O ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C 6 3
BEHIND THE SEAMS
INDUSTRY ICONS
children’s world Apparel | Accessories | Shoes | Gifts Décor | Maternity | Juvenile Products
Passed on for generations, Rashti & Rashti stays ahead of the times.
Family Tradition FOUNDED IN 1950
Here’s to Earnshaw’s 100th Anniversary We salute a century of the latest industry news and trends—and look forward to many more years of partnership. www.AmericasMart.com/ ChildrensWorld
800.ATL.MART
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© 2016 AMC, Inc.
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CCORDING TO COMPANY lore, Rashti & Rashti’s legacy began _d '/+& m^[d >Whho @$ HWi^j_" W trader of various goods, began looking for a more stable path. As b[][dZ ^Wi _j" ^_i m_\[ ik]][ij[Z Ybej^_d] \eh d[mXehdi$ 7\j[h Wbb" XWX_[i Wh[ Xehd [l[hoZWo <Wij#\ehmWhZ je (&'," WdZ HWi^j_ HWi^j_ _i W leading manufacturer of infant and children’s fheZkYji WhekdZ j^[ mehbZ$ 7j j^[ [dZ e\ MehbZ MWh ??" \Wj^[h#ied Zke >Whho WdZ @e^d HWi^j_ ]hWdZ\Wj^[h WdZ \Wj^[h e\ Ykhh[dj emd[hi 9^Whbejj[ WdZ C_Y^W[b HWi^j_ X[]Wd iekhY_d] \_d[ ad_jm[Wh \hec @WfWd$ Hands-on from design to sales, the partners i[j kf i^ef Y_hYW '/+/ _d CWd^WjjWdÊi ]Whc[dj Z_ijh_Yj ed ))hZ WdZ 8heWZmWo d[Wh j^[ YecfWdoÊi Ykhh[dj i^emheec $ @e^d jhWl[b[Z \hec jemd je jemd" i[bb_d] je cec#WdZ#fef i^efi WdZ Xk_bZ_d] h[bWj_edi^_fi$ J^[d" _d j^[ [Whbo Ê,&i" j^[ YecfWdo m[bYec[Z _ji X_] Xh[Wa m^[d _ji products landed a spot on the shelves of Kresge’s, W dWj_edWb Y^W_d$ ?cfehj_d] \_d[ ad_jm[Wh" HWi^j_ & Rashti made packaged gift sets and shipped j^[c m_j^_d j^[ K$I$ 8[\eh[ bed]" j^[ YecfWdoÊi distribution expanded to national chains, like @9 F[dd[o" I[Whi WdZ Meebmehj^i$ <hec j^[ X[]_dd_d]" ]_\j fWYaW]_d] mWi ed[ e\ j^[ mWoi HWi^j_ HWi^j_ Z_\\[h[dj_Wj[Z _ji[b\" and the focus on the gift category still holds true. J^Wdai je b_Y[di_d] fWhjd[hi^_fi m_j^ XhWdZi like Carter’s, Boppy and Taggies, the company e\\[hi W m_Z[ WhhWo e\ fheZkYjiÆWbb _Z[Wb \eh ]_\j_d]Æ_dYbkZ_d] ib[[fm[Wh" im_cm[Wh" XbWda[ji" toys and gifts. The company’s longevity can be attributed
6 4 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C 7 F H ? B % C 7O ( & ' ,
Upon visiting factories in Japan, John Rashti takes his lunch break with a factory representative and owner.
je @e^d HWi^j_Êi jme cWdjhWi0 ÇE\\[h W ]h[Wj fheZkYj Wj W ]h[Wj fh_Y[È WdZ Ç8[ Z_\\[h[dj$È J^[i[ cWdjhWi" Wbed] m_j^ j^[ X[b_[\ j^Wj j^[ Ykijec[h _i De$ '" Yedj_dk[i je Zh_l[ j^[ YecfWdo \ehmWhZ" iWoi C_Y^W[b HWi^j_" 9;E e\ HWi^j_ HWi^j_$ J^[ YecfWdo _i Ykhh[djbo _d j^[ j^_hZ ][d[hWj_ed e\ \Wc_bo emd[hi^_f$ B_a[ Wbb YecfWd_[i" HWi^j_ HWi^j_ ^Wi m[Wj^[h[Z W i[W e\ Y^Wbb[d][i$ El[hi[Wi iekhY_d]" Z[l[befc[dj e\ d[m fheZkYj YWj[]eh_[i" WZlWdY[c[dji _d hWm cWj[h_Wbi WdZ j^[ h_i[ e\ direct sourcing by retailers are all obstacles the YecfWdo ^Wi Yed\_Z[djbo ^khZb[Z$ ÇJ^[ Ykijec[h X[YWc[ j^[ Yecf[j_j_ed"È [nfbW_di C_Y^W[b$ ÇM[ m[h[ Y^Wbb[d][Z je e\\[h iec[j^_d] Z_\\[h[djÆ iec[j^_d] X[jj[h" `kij Wi @e^d HWi^j_ X[b_[l[Z$È Today, the industry’s volatile market conditions, including changes in quality and safety regulations, a shrinking retail environment and j^[ [lebkj_ed e\ ^em Yedikc[hi i^ef h[gk_h[ Yedj_dk[Z Yh[Wj_l_jo$ ?d h[ifedi[" HWi^j_ HWi^j_ has transformed its traditional gift packaging to cWa[ mWo \eh Ykijec[hi m^e Çi^ef ekj e\ j^[ box,” as a pre-packaged group of products no bed][h Ykji _j$ ?jÊi dem Wbb WXekj i[fWhWj[i WdZ coordinating pieces customers can put together j^[ci[bl[i" _d#ijeh[ eh edb_d[$ Ç9edikc[hi jeZWo mWdj je \[[b WdZ jekY^" f_Ya WdZ Y^eei[ WdZ Ykijec_p["È iWoi Fh[i_Z[dj 9^Whbejj[ HWi^j_$ ÇHWi^j_ HWi^j_ cW_djW_di _ji ]_\j_d] ^[h_jW][ through innovation in product, staying current m_j^ jh[dZi WdZ _dj[hfh[j_d] j^[i[ jh[dZi _d _ji emd kd_gk[ mWo je c[[j j^[ d[[Zi e\ _ji Ykijec[hiÆ\hec j^[ ]_\j#]_l[h beea_d] \eh j^Wj if[Y_Wb gift, to the mom in need of timeless essentials for her baby.” —E.B.
All-Inclusive
Elegant Baby’s wide array of timeless gifts has wowed shoppers for nearly 50 years.
A catalog circa 1960s shows a sporty baby in Curity Gauze diapers.
FOUNDED IN 1967
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LMOST EVERYTHING FOR babies has been sold between these four walls,” says Yates Hooper, CEO of Elegant Baby. A look at the company’s catalog makes it easy to see what he means. From infant apparel to gifts, accessories, gear and décor, Elegant Baby’s offerings are as wide-ranging as they are stylish—a combination that has been key to the company’s success. “We’re really able to fulfill the baby gifting need for specialty stores and department stores alike,” Hooper states. Now available at over 5,000 stores across the globe, Elegant Baby was born in 1967, when Hooper’s father Fred B. Hooper began distributing infant goods under the name Baby Needs Incorporated. Based in Burlington, NC, with a permanent showroom in New York City, Elegant Baby quickly became synonymous with high-quality keepsakes. “We have been successful at bringing classic style to the market,” the younger Hooper proudly states. How a brand with almost 50 years of history remains relevant? A number of factors, from the aforementioned quality to affordable prices and innovative design. Keeping an eye on women’s and home décor markets and adapting those trends for kids, the company has anticipated some of the industry’s biggest style developments. “When chocolate brown became really big around 2005, we were one of the first to do that, and we were one of the early adopters of gray,” he explains. Accordingly, Elegant Baby has continued to boost its loyal following, and the team bolsters that awareness with high-quality, on-brand lifestyle photography and a stellar social media presence. (The brand has over 1 million Facebook followers.) One of the brand’s biggest challenges is “making sure that products are visually appealing and on-brand while keeping up with consumers changing tastes and buying habits,” offers Hooper. In today’s online era, manufacturers must make sure their wares look good on the shelves and online, he adds, and “that’s not always the same thing.” As for how Hooper and his team plan to keep enticing customers, he points to a new organic layette and bath collection (the company’s first) scheduled for 2017 as just one example. Elegant Baby will continue to stay one step ahead of the market in the future, he continues, thanks in part to the fresh perspective offered by a host of new hires. As he sums up, “We’re in the business of constant change, so we always have to be changing and finding ways to be ahead of ourselves with design and product development.”—A.G.K.
www.elizabethcate.com
BEHIND THE SEAMS
INDUSTRY ICONS
Stepping In Time
Step & Stride catalog cover from 1970 displays the brand’s “fashion shoes for babies” mantra.
Vida Shoes rekindles Step & Stride’s nearly half-century heritage of classic appeal at affordable prices.
FOUNDED IN 1969
Modern & Luxurious Clothing & Blankets www.luckyjadekids.com
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HAT DO YOU ][j m^[d oek c_n *, o[Whi e\ \eejm[Wh ^_ijeho m_j^ ed[ e\ j^[ _dZkijhoÊi jef Y^_bZh[dÊi b_Y[diehi5 7 b_d[ j^Wj e\\[hi W ijeh_[Z ^[h_jW][" Ykjj_d]# [Z][ j[Y^debe]o WdZ ief^_ij_YWj[Z Z[i_]d Wj Wd WYY[ii_Xb[ fh_Y[ÆWj b[Wij" j^WjÊi m^Wj L_ZW 8hWdZi W_ci je Z[b_l[h m_j^ _ji h[_djheZkYj_ed e\ Ij[f Ijh_Z[$ 8[\eh[ X[_d] e\\_Y_Wbbo ademd Wi Ij[f Ijh_Z[" j^[ Hej^XWhZi YhW\j[Z j^[ Yec# fWdoÊi \_hij fW_h e\ _d\Wdj i^e[i _d '/*( \eh 7o[hi I^e[ ?dY$ _d Bodd" C7$ ÇIj[f Ijh_Z[Êi c_ii_ed mWi É\Wi^_ed i^e[i \eh XWX_[i"ÊÈ [nfbW_di L_ZW I^e[i CWha[j_d] :_h[Yjeh C_Y^[bb[ >_dilWha$ J^[ XhWdZ mWidÊj jhWZ[cWha[Z Wi Ij[f Ijh_Z[" kdj_b '/,/" Yb[l[hbo dWc[Z W\j[h XWX_[iÊ fhe]h[ii_ed \hec b_]^j ij[fi je XWbWdY[Z ijh_Z[i$ <Wbb Ê,/ cWha[Z j^[ bed]#Wdj_Y_fWj[Z _djheZkYj_ed e\ j^[ XhWdZÊi \_hij Yebb[Yj_ed" e\\[h_d] W lWh_[jo e\ mWi^WXb[ b[Wj^[hi WdZ m_Zj^i" ifWdd_d] i_p[ ( j^hek]^ +$ J^[ h_i[ e\ _d\bWj_ed _d '/-& mWi j^[ XhWdZÊi \_hij Y^Wbb[d][" Xkj j^[ Hej^XWhZi f[hi[hl[h[Z$ J^[o mhej[ W b[jj[h je Ykijec[hi [nfbW_d_d] ^em j^[ XhWdZÊi W\\ehZWX_b_jo mekbZ Yedj_dk[ je h[iedWj[ m_j^ i^eff[hi$ ÇB[jÊi \WY[ _jÆ?d\bWj_ed ^Wi cWZ[ cej^[hi l[ho fh_Y[#YediY_eki j^[i[ ZWoi"È j^[o mhej[$ ÇL[ho \[m YWd W\\ehZ '& je '( i^e[i \eh XWXo$ Dej m^[d j^[o ^Wl[ je Xko d[m i^e[i [l[ho \[m cedj^i$È Ij[f Ijh_Z[ cW_djW_d[Z _ji W\\ehZWXb_jo j^hek]^ekj j^[ cWha[j Z_f" _djheZkY_d] \h[i^" Xh_]^jbo Yebeh[Z fWYaW]_d] je WjjhWYj Wjj[dj_ed WdZ ij_ckbWj[ _cfkbi[ iWb[i$ J^[ XhWdZ hWYa[Z kf W beoWb h[jW_b \ebbem_d]" i[Ykh_d] el[h *"&&& WYYekdji WdZ ikffehj_d] j^[c m_j^ W \kbbo#ijeYa[Z mWh[^eki[" h[jW_b iebkj_edi WdZ gkWb_jo fheZkYj Wj Wd W\\ehZWXb[ fh_Y[$ J^[ [Whbo Ê.&i Xhek]^j ed Wdej^[h fWYaW]_d] h[l_i_ed je [d^WdY[ XhWdZ_d] m_j^ j^[ _djheZkYj_ed e\ Ij[f Ijh_Z[Êi i_]dWjkh[ \h_[dZbo Ybemd$ J^[ XhWdZ [nfWdZ[Z kf je i_p[ . \eh ebZ[h Y^_bZh[d" WdZ _d '/.*" ^eea WdZ beef mWi WZZ[Z je j^[ bWj[ij Yebb[Yj_ed je \[[Z _dje W ]hem_d] :?O cel[c[dj$ 7YYehZ_d]bo" j^[ YecfWdoÊi \eYki [nfWdZ[Z \hec XWX_[i je Y^_bZh[d m_j^ j^[ jW]b_d[ Ç<Wi^_ed I^e[i \eh 9^_bZh[dÈ _d j^[ [Whbo Ê/&i$ 8kj mW_j_d] jee bed] je c_]hWj[ iekhY_d] \hec j^[ KI7 je 9^_dW b[Z je Z[Yh[Wi[Z iWb[i$ I[[_d] fej[dj_Wb je h[ijeh[ Ij[f Ijh_Z[Êi ^[h_jW][" \eejm[Wh b_Y[di_d] ]_Wdj L_ZW I^e[i ademd \eh fem[h^eki[ XhWdZi b_a[ @WcXk A:" >WddW 7dZ[hiied" 9Whj[hÊi WdZ Ei^Aei^ `kcf[Z Wj j^[ effehjkd_jo je fkhY^Wi[ j^[ _Yed_Y b_Y[di[ _d Del[cX[h (&'*$ ÇJ^[ h[_djheZkYj_ed e\ j^[ Ij[f Ijh_Z[ XhWdZ _i Xo \Wh j^[ ceij [nY_j_d] Xki_d[ii WZ`kijc[dj je j^[ L_ZW A_Zi fehj\eb_e _d j^[ fWij o[Whi"È iWoi L_ZW A_Zi =[d[hWb CWdW][h 8h_Wd CYCWdki" WZZ_d] j^Wj ^[ _i efj_c_ij_Y WXekj j^[ XhWdZÊi m^eb[iWb[ bWkdY^$ :[i_]d :_h[Yjeh Bk_i =edpWb[p ZhWmi _dif_hWj_ed \hec j^[ XhWdZÊi heeji$ >[ fe_dji ekj W \Wkn m[bj Xk_bj _dje j^[ ekjieb[ cebZi e\ j^[ h[Y[dj Yebb[Yj_ed0 Ç?jÊi dej W \kdYj_edWb m[bj" Xkj _jÊi W Z[YehWj_ed j^Wj Xh_d]i ki XWYa je ekh jhWZ_j_ed$È 7dej^[h WZZ_j_ed je j^[ <Wbb Yebb[Yj_ed" _dif_h[Z Xo [Whbo jhWZ_j_ed" _i j^[ d[m h[celWXb[ _dieb[ \eh c[Z_kc WdZ m_Z[ m_Zj^i" cWZ[ \hec Ehj^eB_j[ je m_Ya WmWo ce_ijkh[$ CYCWdki iWoi j^[ i[Yh[j je j^[ XhWdZÊi bed][l_jo _i W Yecc_jc[dj je fhel_Z_d] h[Wb lWbk[$ ÇM[ ckij Yedj_dk[ je WZZ lWbk[ je [WY^ jekY^ fe_dj"È e\\[hi CYCWdki$ Ç?\ Wbb XhWdZ ijWa[^ebZ[hi \[[b j^[ lWbk[ _i h[Wb" j^[h[Êi de ZekXj j^Wj j^_i XhWdZ m_bb bWij$È ÆE.B. 6 6 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C 7 F H ? B % C 7O ( & ' ,
Slice of Life
Mud Pie CEO Marcia Miller’s story is a lesson in perseverance— one that explains how the company became a gift industry powerhouse.
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July 31 - August 2 Metropolitan Pavilion 125 W 18th St, New York
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Mud Pie children’s gifts made their iconic debut in the January 2000 catalog.
HEN MARCIA MILLER, founder, CEO and owner of multi-million dollar gift industry mecca Mud Pie delivered her daughter via C-section, she was cautioned not to drive. “So what did I do?” she muses. “I drove to the local children’s boutique because my baby girl had to have a perfect baby bonnet.” That rule-bending attitude has served Miller well. Based in Stone Mountain, GA, and launched in 1988, Mud Pie’s apparel, layette, swaddles, wall décor, keepsakes and plush can be spotted in about 16,000 specialty retailers and department stores worldwide. Beginning with a selection of 20 locally made terra cotta home décor items and a simple catalog, Mud Pie has become a one-stop resource for children’s and gift retailers offering 8,000 SKUs per season within three divisions: kids, living, and fashion (including women’s). The company’s line of piggy banks in 2000 were particularly noteworthy, branching the brand into baby gifts. Miller adds Mud Pie was the first gift company to sell ceramics in ready-to-gift hat box packaging. “No one in the industry was doing that at the time,” she continues. One secret to the brand’s longevity? The staff’s attention to detail in developing and marketing unique items. And, affordability—Miller notes that prices haven’t changed much since 2000. “We constantly study fashion and lifestyle trends,” says Miller, pointing to new categories like milestone markers, diaper bags, and newborn photography sets. Miller notes that after a five-year equity partnership, last year she bought back Lineage Capital’s minority share to regain 100-percent control. And, early this year, Mud Pie opened an 11,000-square-foot showroom in AmericasMart in Atlanta meaning that, for the first time, the brand will be able to showcase the full breadth of its divisions in lifestyle settings. But Mud Pie’s strength and resilience is perhaps best exemplified by Miller’s tenacious determination to recover after an automobile accident in 2007. “The recovery process was long and painful, marked by surgeries and physical therapy,” recalls Miller. “But the business has not missed a step. Even in the throes of worldwide financial downturn Mud Pie has never suffered a setback in terms of revenue.” The result? A little slice of history. —Lauren Olsen
collections
Clothing . Accessories Shoes . Gift . Toys . Home
illustration Manon Debaye
FOUNDED IN 1988
The best American & international children’s brands
FOR PROFESSIONALS ONLY
www.playtimenewyork.com
BEHIND THE SEAMS
INDUSTRY ICONS
Meet the Rainbow Zutano expands the color spectrum of babywear to create bold and bright must-haves for moms.
FOUNDED IN 1989
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Uli Belenky smiles for the camera at her design studio in 2013.
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Go Gently Nation at AB Spoon
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Made in the Shade C
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FOUNDED IN 1993
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FTER YEARS AND years of sunny outdoor play, children’s eyes can slowly undergo wear and tear. In fact, 85 percent of eye damage occurs before the age of 18, says Teeny Tiny Optics Founder Alice Lando. Her solution: fashionable shades for adorable babes. Unsatisfied as a women’s accessories buyer, Lando envisioned a more entrepreneurial role. One day, at her (future) husband’s eyewear store, three tiny pairs of frames caught her attention. “These are adorable!” she exclaimed. His response? “Nobody pays attention to the kids’ glasses.” Challenge accepted. Gathering a few samples of kids’ sunglasses, Lando took to the streets of San Francisco. By end of day one she had sold to eight out of the ten retailers visited. “I remember running to a phone booth and calling my husband, saying ‘This is what I’m going to do,’” she recalls. Lando quickly found a factory and manufactured her first line, called Teeny Tiny Optics, in 1993. That year, she was a one-woman show. “It was the best lesson for me because I got to speak directly to retailers and see exactly what they were looking for,” Lando says. Today, the brand sells five categories of stylish shades, spanning infants through teens, all with 100-percent UVA/UVB protection. When the brand launched, parents were increasingly using sunscreen on their tots. “Just like parents won’t let kids out the door without sunscreen, they shouldn’t let them out the door without their sunglasses,” she says. The biggest style trend lately? The Mini-Me craze. “Parents want their kids to wear the blacks, grays and tortoise that they wear,” says Lando, noting how many of the brand’s shades mimic adult styles and colors. “It used to be everything was pink, now not so much.” The product that truly catapulted the company to success, however, was its original baby glasses. Lando perfected the design by using a flexible rubber material, nixing the rigid temple piece that would irritate a baby’s head. This past year, the brand launched its teeniest. “We found out by Instagram that these cute little babies were wearing our smallest glasses and they looked too big,” says Lando, adding oversized shades don’t provide the necessary eye protection. With exciting ventures ahead, Lando promises one thing will never change: The brand will always promote sun protection for tiny tots. —E.B.
www.snapperrock.com | T: 410 280 2364
s n o i t a l u t Congra
www.pediped.com
Years!
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Teeny Tiny Optics’ shades are sandcastle approved.
BEHIND THE SEAMS
INDUSTRY ICONS
Soft Touch Kissy Kissy elevated Peruvian Pima to an industry mainstay in the ’90s—and continues to keep its littlest customers happy with an unwavering commitment to quality. FOUNDED IN 1997
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oilandwater.com
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ERUVIAN PIMA COTTON is a staple—mothers around the world love its silky-soft feel and durability. But back in '//+" j^[ \WXh_Y mWi h[bWj_l[bo kdademd je K$I$ i^eff[hi$ Enter Kissy Kissy Owner and Co-Founder Roxana Castillo. 7 F[hkl_Wd jhWdifbWdj _d j^[ K$I$" 9Wij_bbe X[]Wd e\\[h_d] F[hkl_Wd F_cW WffWh[b Wj ^[h D[m @[hi[o Y^_bZh[dÊi Xekj_gk[" 8_X_Êi 8WXom[Wh$ 7j j^[ j_c[" _j mWi jek]^ je \_dZ W YecfWdo e\\[h_d] W \kbb Yebb[Yj_ed e\ f_cW Yejjed XWXo [ii[dj_Wbi$ ?dif_hWj_ed ijhkYa" WdZ Castillo launched her own collection—but she never anticipated the kdfh[Y[Z[dj[Z ikYY[ii j^Wj mekbZ \ebbem _d '//-$ JeZWo" A_iio A_iio" kdZ[h j^[ JWj_WdW 9ecfWdo kcXh[bbW" _i W ckbj_#c_bb_ed ZebbWh bWo[jj[ b_d[$ J^[ XhWdZÊi '&&#f[hY[dj F[hkl_Wd F_cW Yejjed h[cW_di" WdZ 9Wij_bbe Yh[Z_ji j^[ \_X[h m_j^ YWjWfkbj_d] j^[ XhWdZ je ikYY[ii" WZZ_d] j^Wj _j mWi ed[ e\ j^[ \_hij K$I$ YecfWd_[i je e\\[h W \kbb hWd][ e\ YeehZ_dWj_d] ]Whc[dji \hec WffWh[b je WYY[iieh_[i$ ÇM[ m[h[ WXb[ je \kb\_bb W d[[Z _d j^[ cWha[j"È iWoi 9Wij_bbe$ IWb[i \ebbem[Z" WdZ A_iio A_iio [nfWdZ[Z _dj[hdWj_edWbbo _d (&&-$ Ed[ e\ j^[ a[oi je j^[ XhWdZÊi bed][l_jo WdZ ikYY[ii" 9Wij_bbe Yedj_dk[i" b_[i _d _ji WX_b_jo je WZ`kij je j^[ [l[h#i^_\j_d] h[jW_b bWdZiYWf[$ 7YYehZ_d]bo" A_iio A_iio dem ^Wi W ikXijWdj_Wb fh[i[dY[ ed ieY_Wb c[Z_W$ Ç7i Yedikc[h jWij[i WdZ h[jW_b[hiÊ d[[Zi Y^Wd][" m[ WZWfj"È explains Castillo. ?d (&'*" j^[ XhWdZ bWkdY^[Z W d[m b_d[ e\ fW`WcWi _d _ji i_]dWjkh[ Yejjed" [nfWdZ_d] j^[ Yebb[Yj_edÊi i_p[ hWd][ kf je ,$ 7dZ" _d @kd[" j^[ YecfWdo m_bb Z[Xkj Ief^_[ bW ]_hW\[ Xo A_iio A_iio" Wd WffWh[b Yebb[Yj_ed _d YebbWXehWj_ed m_j^ :[b_ie I$7$I$" m^_Y^ emdi j^[ fefkbWh jhWZ[cWhaÆj^[ XhWdZÊi \_hij \ehWo _dje j^[ b_Y[di_d] Wh[dW$ Je Yecfb[c[dj j^[ X[bel[Z j[[j^_d] jeo" j^[ Yebb[Yj_ed m_bb e\\[h bWo[jj[ WdZ fW`WcWi$ J^[ h[Y[dj bWkdY^[i Wh[ `kij W Yekfb[ e\ h[Wiedi m^o A_iio A_iioÊi \kjkh[ beeai je X[ `kij Wi ijeh_[Z Wi _ji fWij$ 8kj j^[ X_]][ij h[Wied j^[ brand will continue to resonate with parents worldwide has never mWl[h[Z" 9Wij_bbe fe_dji ekj$ ÇA_iio A_iio ^Wi kjj[h Z[Z_YWj_ed je i[hl_Y[ WdZ gkWb_jo"È i^[ ijWj[i$ Ç@kij Xo [nf[h_[dY_d] ekh fheZkYj" Ykijec[hi kdZ[hijWdZ j^[ lWbk[$È—L.O. 7 0 ; 7 H D I > 7M I $ 9 E C 7 F H ? B % C 7O ( & ' ,
Bringing Up Baby How infants’ wear brand Bon Bébé helped transform the industry by offering highquality, attractively packaged basics at affordable prices.
FOUNDED IN 1999
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Playwear sets from 2003 hang in the brand’s old showroom.
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BEHIND THE SEAMS The world of juvenile products— all in one place.
ABC Kids Expo October 18-21, 2016
n Center Las Vegas Conventio
INDUSTRY ICONS
All Wrapped Up
SwaddleDesigns helped build the swaddle into a multi-million dollar category with a touch of science, design and a whole lot of care. FOUNDED IN 2002
Experience the best this industry has to offer, including dazzling networking events and more. EXPLORE the benefits of attending the 2016 ABC Kids Expo®, the world’s premier juvenile products trade show, as we return to Las Vegas for our 14th annual trade show. EXHIBIT among the industry elite, with virtually every significant manufacturer or distributor of products for infants and children presenting their newest, most innovative products and services. Engage with international buyers, media and fellow suppliers, when over 1,000 exhibitors and over 12,000 attendees are expected to converge at this private trade event.
12,874 attendees 79 countries 3,259 booths Over 1,000,000 sq. ft.
3 themed pavilions international pavilions 1 specialty showcase
REGISTER TODAY!
Phone: 210.691.4848 E-mail: info@theabcshow.com
www.theabcshow.com *2015 final attendance figures.
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Razzle Dazzle Special occasion dresses featuring a fair dose of glitz and glamour? It’s a Kid’s Dream.
FOUNDED IN 2002
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HEN SHE HEARD that beloved special occasion ijWfb[ A_ZÊi :h[Wc mWi kf \eh ]hWXi _d (&'(" _j Z_ZdÊj take long for Chewy Jang to acquire the brand. A h[Y[dj ]hWZkWj[" i^[ h[Wb_p[Z _j mWi W Y^WdY[ je fkj ^[h \h[i^bo c_dj[Z \_dWdY[ Z[]h[[ je f[h\[Yj ki[$ Ç? ^Wl[ WbmWoi mWdj[Z je X[ Wd [djh[fh[d[kh WdZ hkd co emd Xki_d[ii"È i^[ h[\b[Yji$ ÇJ^_i mWi j^[ f[h\[Yj effehjkd_jo$È The CEO also had a special connection to the brand: “My parents m[h[ j^[ cWdk\WYjkh[hi \eh A_ZÊi :h[Wc i_dY[ j^[ X[]_dd_d]"È i^[ explains. (The special occasion dresses and accessories-focused brand mWi \ekdZ[Z _d (&&( Xo Ikddo FWha$ ÇJ^[o ^WZ j^[_h emd \WYjeho _d Aeh[W \eh [_]^j o[Whi" WdZ m^[d m[ _cc_]hWj[Z ^[h[ (& o[Whi W]e" j^[o ijWhj[Z W cWdk\WYjkh_d] YecfWdo _d Zemdjemd B$7$"È i^[ Yedj_dk[i$ 7YYehZ_d]bo" @Wd] _i WXb[ je Yedj_dk[ j^[ YecfWdoÊi c_ii_ed e\ e\\[h_d] ^_]^#gkWb_jo" ceijbo 7c[h_YWd#cWZ[ Zh[ii[i Wj W\\ehZWXb[ fh_Y[i$ M^eb[iWb[ fh_Y[i Wl[hW][ Wj (( f[h Zh[ii$ Ç?j mWi h_]^j \_hij ij[f _d j^[ Y^_bZh[dÊi WffWh[b Xki_d[ii"È i^[ W\\_hci$ ÇM[Êl[ ]hemd [l[ho o[Wh i_dY[ m[ jeea el[h j^[ YecfWdo$È I^[ dej[i j^Wj (&') mWi fWhj_YkbWhbo ikYY[ii\kb" j^Wdai _d fWhj je j^[ introduction of a dress design offered in an array of colors featuring a i[gk_d[Z jef WdZ jkbb[ ia_hj$ ÇJ^[ ijob[ h[Wbbo ^_j _j e\\ \eh ki"È iWoi @Wd]$ I^[ fh[Z_Yji i_c_bWh ikYY[ii \eh j^[ XhWdZÊi kfYec_d] II'- Yebb[Yj_ed" ZkXX[Z ?Wc=_hb$ J^[ Yebb[Yj_edÊi Zh[ii[i m_bb \[Wjkh[ YWh[[h#j^[c[Z ]hWf^_Y fh_dji" \hec fh[i_Z[dj je iY_[dj_ij je ikf[h^[he$ @Wd] dej[i j^Wj j^[ YWh[[hi Wh[ _d ij[h[ejof_YWbbo ÇcWb[È \_[bZi" WdZ j^_i mWi Zed[ je [cfem[h b_jjb[ ]_hbi m_j^ X_] Zh[Wci$ ÇM[Êh[ l[ho [nY_j[Z WXekj _j"È she says. 7 ]eeZ Zei[ e\ ZWppb[ _d j^[ \ehc e\ eh]WdpW" `WYgkWhZ" i[gk_di WdZ tulle are a big reason why its sales continue to climb. But keeping good _dl[djeho _i Wbie a[o" Wi _i [d]W][c[dj l_W ieY_Wb d[jmehai$ ÇIeY_Wb media has made it easier to reach the whole world but at the same j_c[ W bej ^WhZ[h je cWa[ j^[ eh]Wd_Y Yedd[Yj_edi je j^[ Ykijec[hi"È i^[ [nfh[ii[i$ J^Wj X[_d] iW_Z" @Wd] _i efj_c_ij_Y WXekj j^[ XhWdZÊi \kjkh[$ ÇM[ m_bb X[ [nfWdZ_d] WdZ cWa_d] ekh cWha$È ÆL.O.
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the mothers, or, in some instances, to notify them by telephone of the receipt of new goods suitable for children.” What’s the modern equivalent? We actually still have a customer program in our store. Every associate that works for us after a certain period of time is expected to keep up a customer book, and keep in touch with specific customers. They keep track of their sizes, the particular things that they like and the brands they buy. They keep in touch with those customers, whether it’s following up about items they recently purchased, inviting them back to the store if a holiday is coming up or simply wishing them a happy birthday.
Our founder George F. Earnshaw always said the infants’ department was so important because moms who come into shop for baby will also shop for the entire family. And you gain a lifelong customer. We hear so many people say, “My mom use to take me shopping at Von Maur, and now I take my kids shopping there.” They remember coming shopping for their first communion dress or getting fitted for their first communion suit or getting their prom dress. For all those milestones throughout a child’s life, we’re there. And grandma knows she can get a special and unique take-me-home outfit for a new baby. We want to help create those special memories for our customers, and allow them to be passed along to the next generation and their families.
It seems like Von Maur, despite its size, still operates like a small, local retailer. That’s one of our founding philosophies: Great customer service on merchandise at fair prices. We make sure we’re getting the customer what they want when they want it. Everyone here in merchandising has a plaque on their desk that says: “There are two rules in our company: No. 1: The customer is always right. No. 2: If you think the customer is wrong, refer back to Rule No. 1.” What were some of the most challenging times for the company? I think some of the toughest decades were the years in which there were wars and recessions. As for some of the biggest challenges today, as everything keeps changing, we want to make sure we’re offering products to all different types of customers. We don’t ever want to appear that we only offer certain types of looks or appeal to one type of customer base. We’re trying to appeal to traditional grandmothers, brand-driven shoppers, gift-givers on a budget, conservative moms and the new Millennial moms. And kids today are just bigger than they used to be, so we want to make sure that we offer appropriate looks for every child, including the ones who are younger but big for their age. We try to spread the budget as wisely as we can to make we’re covering everything, so people keep shopping with us. Conversely, what were some of the times of greatest growth?
PLATYPUS AUSTRALIA BEACHWEAR
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100 YEARS
Thank you for all of your continued support!
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I would definitely say within the last decade. With activewear really ramping up, it has brought such huge growth within the boys’ area. Moms don’t have to fight their son to put on a pair of jeans in the morning; he’ll put on a pair of Under Armour pants or an Under Armour T-shirt. It’s easy for mom. She doesn’t care about the price point so long as he gets dressed in the morning without any protests. We really pride ourselves on our boys’ selection. How do you plan to grow the children’s department going forward? We continually want to keep looking for the next big thing and special products that set our assortment apart from everyone else. Even though we have brands like Under Armour and Nike that you can find other places, we have the assortment that looks the best. When the customer comes in, she feels like we look new and fresh. And we make sure we stay on top of the trends, like the move towards casual. Everything is cyclical. We continually shop the marketplace for new, exciting casual vendors. We might not be ready to purchase and bring them into the store now, but we want to know our options when that time comes. What are some of those exciting brands? Some of the brands we’ve had in the store for a while, like Pumpkin Patch, have started to look really new and fresh these days. All of the casual vendors are really stepping it up in their designs. So, what’s the secret to Von Maur’s longevity? Hands down it’s our customer service. We offer an experience that makes our customers want to come back and shop again with us. We do a lot of things to make that happen. We treat our customers fairly by offering great products at fair prices. We take pride in the fact that we’re putting out quality merchandise. We talk to our vendors all the time. If we get something in and the quality just isn’t up to our standards, we send it back. We’re pretty particular on our end because we want to make sure again we’re offering the customer the best of the best. We offer an interest-free charge card. We offer free gift wrap. We offer free shipping. I know a lot of people offer free shipping when you shop online, but we were offering free shipping before online was even popular. If you pick out a baby shower gift at Von Maur for your niece who lives across the country, we will ship it for you, wrapped and everything, for free. That personal touch is so rare to find in today’s era of megachain retailers. We believe in slow and steady growth. That’s one reason we’ve remained a privately held company. Our company leaders only believe in opening one to two stores a year. The reason for that is because, in the end, the merchandising team can’t really focus on putting the best assortment in every store if we’re trying to buy assortments for 12 new stores a year. We also can’t find the best of the best associates if we’re trying to find enough people to work in 12 different stores a year. We don’t want to take on more than we can handle because we want to be held to the standards we’ve always been held to, and we don’t want to fall below those standards. ·
shop talk Frill Seeker “YOU’RE NEVER FULLY dressed without a bow. That’s been our motto,” says Diann Newell, co-owner of Hansel & Gretel children’s boutique in Cape Girardeau, MO. That more-is-more approach to kids’ fashion has [dj_Y[Z ceci je ijef Xo \eh *( o[Whi je Y^[Ya ekj W i[b[Yj_ed Ój \eh W \W_ho# tale princess, bedecked with ruffles, ribbon, smocking and, of course, bows. Along with her husband (co-owner Mike Newell), the duo crafts almost all of the boutique’s bows by hand—in a color palette to match the apparel. ?jÊi dej j^[ edbo mWo ^kXXo f_jY^[i _d0 M^[d Ykijec[hiÊ a_Zi Wh[ dWff_d] in the car, he’ll often run outside to keep an eye on them while mom shops. That commitment to customer service is just one reason why its shoppers remain loyal fans. Today, women who dressed their daughters in the store’s dainty frocks decades ago now come by to buy gifts for their great-great-grandchildren. 1. Biscotti and Kate Mack have been the shop’s bestselling girls’ collections for the past decade, which Newell attributes in part to Rebecca Ebershoff, the brands’ CA-based sales rep. biscottiandkatemack.com
J^[ i^efÊi dWc[ mWi _dif_h[Z Xo _ji Óhij beYWj_ed _d Zemdjemd 9Wf[ =_hWhZ[Wk" W ,&&#igkWh[#\eej Xh_Ya YejjW][ j^[ Yekfb[ ef[d[Z _d '/-)$ A teacher, Newell decided to cash out her teacher’s retirement fund to purchase the store’s merchandise, an adorable array of American-made apparel. (Many of the store’s current lines are still made in the USA.) D[nj YWc[ W cel[ je j^[ jemdÊi d[m cWbb _d '/.'" m^_Y^ j^[ Yekfb[ gk_Yabo h[]h[jj[Z$ Ç? j^ek]^j ? ^WZ ^_j j^[ X_] j_c[$ 8kj ? mWi oekd]" ZkcX WdZ dW_l["È i^[ `ea[i$ J^Wda\kbbo" W )"&&&#igkWh[#\eej ifej WYheii \hec the mall became available—the spot that the store still calls home today. And while retail has certainly seen its share of revolutions since the D[m[bbi Óhij ef[d[Z kf i^ef" j^[_h i[Yh[j je j^[ ikYY[ii h[cW_di0 Ij_Ya with what works. “We’re enough to the south that people wear fluff,” she says of the store’s abundance of bows and frills. —Audrey Goodson Kingo 5. Little girls loved the shop’s plaid dressed with eyelet ruffles by Martha’s Miniatures in the ’70s. marthasminiatures.com
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6. Another sentimental favorite with grandmothers? Smocked looks by Feltman Brothers. feltmanbrothers.com
2. Moms have created coordinating looks for baby and big sister with Shebloom’s Americanmade designs for decades. shebloom.com
7. “I’ve been selling New ICM Sleepwear since the day I opened.” newicm.com
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3. Newell was inspired to bring Calvin Klein jeans when her daughter’s middle school principle proclaimed that all the kids were wearing “braces and Calvin Klein jeans.” calvinklein.com
8. The store’s first location? A 600-square-foot cottage. 9. Newell’s husband handcrafts 90 percent of the store’s wide selection of bows. 10. Grandmothers can’t resist the be-ruffled designs by Peaches ‘n Cream. peaches-ncream.com
4. They may be seeing a sales resurgence in trendy Brooklyn boutiques, but Salt Water Sandals by Hoy Shoes have been the top-selling shoe at Hansel & Gretel for 15 years. saltwater-sandals.com
Diann Newell treats her customers to a wonderland of frilly fashion.
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Š 2016. All rights reserved. Rashti & Rashti is a registered trademark owned by HJ Rashti & Company, Inc.
From One Youngster to Another...
Happy Birthday, Earnshaw's!
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