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WARM FRONT FALL FASHION FORECAST : CALM HUES, CUDDLY KNITS AND COZY FURS Q&A : OH BABYâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S MARY LAUER MILK & HONEY BABIES FINDS SWEET SUCCESS AT HUDSON YARDS

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APRIL / MAY 2019 CONTENTS

Noelle Heffernan Publisher

FEAT URES

Emily Beckman Editor Nancy Campbell Trevett McCandliss Creative Directors

8 The Entrepreneur Mary Lauer, CEO and founder of Lauer Enterprises, Inc. and Happy Family Designs, Inc., on overseeing two Minnesota-based retail concepts while growing her wholesale business, Oh Baby. By Emily Beckman

EDITORIAL Aleda Johnson Assistant Editor Mariah Walker Contributing Fashion Editor ADVERTISING

22 Nest Generation An earthy palette of cabin-cozy looks in texture-rich chunky knits, fluffy furs and shaggy fleeces keep little ones stylish and snug. By Emily Beckman

Jennifer Craig Special Accounts Manager PRODUCTION Laurie Guptill Production Manager Mike Hoff Webmaster

DEPARTM EN TS

Bruce Sprague Circulation Director CORPORATE

4 Editor’s Note

Xen Zapis Founder 1926-2018 Lee Zapis, CEO Rich Bongorno, CFO Debbie Grim, Controller

6 Scene & Heard 14 A Note to My Younger Self 16 In the Bag

Caroline Diaco President/Group Publisher

17 Retail Math 18 Trend Watch

Greg Dutter Editorial Director

34 Designer Chat

9Threads 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300

36 What’s Selling 38 Behind The Seams 40 Final Cut

CONTACT INFO Sales/Editorial Offices 214 W. 39th St., Suite 205 New York, NY 10018

PAGE

On cover: Everly wears Elegant Baby cable-knit sweater and hat, Tiny Giants pants and Minnetonka plaid crib moccasins. Photography by Trevett McCandliss; styling by Emily Beckman; grooming by Christina Errante; styling assistance by Enid Hunt.

Tel: (646) 278-1550 Fax: (646) 278-1553 advertising@9threads.com editorialrequests@ 9threads.com

This page: Simone wears fleece overalls by Petit Indi, black one-piece by Saint Haven and Oeuf alpaca wool hat.

Circulation Office 26202 Detroit Road, #300 Westlake, OH 44145 Tel: (440) 871-1300 circulation@9threads.com

EARNSHAW’S INFANTS, GIRLS AND BOYS WEAR REVIEW ISSN 0161-2786 (USPS-320-090) The business and fashion magazine of the childrenswear industry is published 10x a year by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC, 214 West 39th Street, Suite 205 New York, NY 10018. The publishers of this magazine do not assume responsibility for statements made by their advertisers in business competition. Periodicals postage is paid in New York, N.Y. and additional mailing offices. Subscription price for one year: U.S. $48; Rates outside U.S. available upon request. Single price copy, $5. Copyright 2011 by Symphony Publishing NY, LLC. Postmaster: Send address changes to Earnshaw’s Infants, Girls and Boys Wear Review, P.O. Box 8548, Lowell, MA 01853-8548. Publisher is not responsible for unsolicited manuscripts or photos. Any photographs, artwork, manuscripts, editorial samples or merchandise sent for editorial consideration are sent at the sole risk of the sender. Symphony Publishing NY, LLC will assume no responsibility for loss or damage. No portion of this issue may be reproduced without the written permission of the publisher. Printed in USA.

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Babywear Birth to 12 Months

Gerber Childrenswear, NY Showroom â&#x20AC;¢ 1370 Broadway, 8th Floor, New York, NY 10015

EDITOR’S NOTE

Think Inside the Box

ARNSHAW’S HAS SPENT the last 103 years serving as the sounding board for our beloved childrenswear industry. We’ve kept pace with the latest industry news and fashion trends, detailing new retail concepts and strategies. We’ve profiled movers and shakers as well as up-and-comers, marking milestones and seeking solutions in good times and bad. Our pages have offered a steady stream of insights, ideas and inspiration from brand executives, sourcing experts, sales reps, designers, department store buyers, specialty chain owners and mom-and-pop boutiques. We pride ourselves on connecting brands, retailers, reps and manufacturers for more efficient and effective business both in print and digitally. What’s more, we’re always looking to improve! This month, we’re excited to announce a next level communication breakthrough with the debut of the Earnshaw’s Buyer Box, a curated parcel of samples shipped directly to the doorstep of 250 select retailers nationwide. Filled with innovative infant and toddler products (in concert with our baby-themed issue), our box allows recipients to touch and feel the merchandise in the comfort of their store with their team nearby. That’s the added value of Earnshaw’s coveted circulation—we can deliver relevant industry messages in many ways. Stay tuned for more curated boxes, ones timed and assorted selectively and delivered precisely to the target audience. We already have a waiting list of brands for future themed boxes. Thanks to our vibrant social media channels, Earnshaw’s reach extends to a growing consumer audience. Many “entrepremoms” like to read up on the latest industry news. Our industry is rife with such success stories. In this issue alone, there are the mommy startups like Julia Min of Twelve Little diaper bags (p. 34) and

Jenny Luckett of January Moon teething jewelry and Marianella Monsalve of Nella Pima layette (p. 38). All are timely and relevant concepts born on the frontlines of parenting. We welcome them— and any others—into the Earnshaw’s fold. By extension, the children of entrepremoms are welcome into our growing family. Hence, our first-ever baby model contest run through our Instagram, @EarnshawsMagazine. Families nationwide submitted photos of their beautiful babies in the hopes of making it into this issue’s cozy knits fashion story, Nest Generation (p. 22). Picking just 10 models from such a cute field wasn’t easy—all babies are adorable. The decision was tough, but the competition even more so. Being one of the chosen few could very well be the gateway to a successful modeling career. We have a track record of doing just that—Lindsay Lohan, Hayden Panetierre and Mischa Barton are all former Earnshaw’s models. Might there be a future Hollywood star in this latest crop? You never know. So stay tuned for more social media–driven consumer engagement projects, be they surveys, case studies or more modeling contests. In the meantime, we want to hear from you! Got an idea, a suggestion or some feedback? Let us know. Call, email, tweet, direct message or even snail mail. Everyone involved in the children’s fashion industry is welcome to join our ongoing conversation. Or, as Mary Lauer, CEO and founder of Oh Baby and the subject of this issue’s Q&A (p. 8), says: “There’s room for everyone in the sandbox.” Lauer, another entrepremom, is building a growing empire spanning childrenswear retail and wholesale operations as well as the home décor boutique and interior design studio Que Sera. Her story is inspiring. We’re all ears when it comes to telling startup-to-success stories. Our operators are standing by…

E M I LY B E C K M A N Editor

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SC E N E & H E A R D

5 - S t a r A p p a r e l Te a m s w i t h N a t i o n a l Pe d i a t r i c C a n c e r Fo u n d a t i o n IN SUPPORT OF the National Pediatric Cancer Foundation’s (NPCF) efforts to find less toxic treatments for childhood cancer, 5-Star Apparel is donating wardrobes for the nonprofit organization’s Fashion Funds the Cure runway shows to be staged in select malls and large venues around the country this year. Runway models are children battling cancer accompanied by professionals representing what they want to be when they grow up. Think Disney princesses, toy makers, ballerinas, doctors, teachers and plumbers. “They’ll walk the runway in stylish 5-Star Apparel outfits before going backstage to change into their ‘dream job’ look,” says Dawn Zachman, director of development for the NPCF. Each show starts by introducing the local cancer patients who tell the audience their age, what type of cancer they’re battling and their hobbies. “Talk about the cutest darn picture of a little boy walking down the runway with an overalls flap hanging down, a plunger over his shoulder and the biggest smile you can imagine,” Zachman adds. “It’s an honor to help these families have a day free from the stress of treatment,” says Debbie Baker, a spokesperson for 5-Star Apparel, noting that the company will wardrobe models, ages toddler to tween. “It’s such a beautiful opportunity to celebrate each child and their future.” Simon Properties has also signed on as a sponsor of Fashion Funds the Cure, scheduling the shows at its largest malls for big exposure. About 250 to 300 ticketed seats are available for $100 for each show, but free

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passerby viewing—and donations—are welcome. “In a mall, you have so many people walking by or looking over a railing and can find out about the many problems related to pediatric cancer,” Zachman says. “We often have people walk up and say, ‘Hey, do you mind if I bid on your silent auction items?’ To which we reply, ‘Absolutely, come right in!’” Since 1991, the NPCF has garnered millions of dollars in donations to fund clinical trials nationwide in 24 major research hospitals. The effort continues and the NPCF welcomes anyone to join its fight. Support is greatly needed, as Zachman notes government research funding only goes so far—only 4 percent is dedicated to children, in fact. “We hold many fundraisers and unite the community to make up for where government funding falls short,” she says, adding, “Nearly 95 percent of kids with childhood cancer will develop another major health issue, such as organ damage or other complication, by their 40s.” Zachman cites the dangerous, long-term effects of treating children with adult chemotherapy as a leading reason. “Think about it, we don’t even give our kids adult cold medicine,” she says. Each runway show also features an alumni portion, where returning patients walk the runway wearing a T-shirt stating how many years since they’ve walked their first show. “Kids from the first show are coming back 16 years later to walk this year,” Zachman says. “It’s truly amazing the community that’s been created and the hope that’s been inspired.” Baker encourages fellow childrenswear companies to support the NPCF. “We all get busy at work and wish we had more time to do something good for others, so now is your chance,” she says. “I would love for our industry to help fund the very important research of this amazing organization.” For more information, visit NationalPCF.org or email DZachman@ NationalPCF.org.

G o Ta k e a H i k e —w i t h K i d s Elegant Baby

MERRELL AND HIKE IT BABY are teaming up for a two-year partnership on developing footwear, resources and outdoor experiences to encourage parents and children to get out on the trail. The goal is to demonstrate how accessible hiking can be for families with babies and young children, says Bornie Del Priore, president, Kids Group of Wolverine Worldwide. “Joining forces with Hike it Baby around a shared passion for getting families to hit the trail made so much sense and will enable us to better outfit and support trailblazing little ones,” Del Priore says, adding the partnership creates opportunity for retailers to join the mission. “It provides an outlet for our retail partners to tap into their local communities and make authentic connections with consumers.” Festivities kicked off in April when Hike it Baby held its biannual Hike It Baby 30, a fun-

draiser and membership-based virtual challenge to encourage families across the globe to get their children outside more often. Winners took home a pair of Merrell shoes. Shanti Hodges, founder of Hike it Baby, looks forward to extending the organization’s services by working with Merrell. “We’ll be able to offer our community more content and opportunities to connect and work with Merrell on design, testing and development of its kids’ footwear collection,” she says. Speaking of which, Merrell is introducing a new Hut Moc ($50 SRP), featuring the Hike it Baby Busy Hiker print. Part of its Bare Steps toddler collection, the Hut Moc is designed for the natural shape of a child’s foot and offers extra wiggle room. Available in sizes 4-10, M-W, the shoe features Merrell’s M Select Grip rubber outsole for durability and traction. Merrell will also be featuring Hike it Baby families as part of its Fall ’19 marketing campaign.

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Q&A

THE

Entrepreneur BY EMILY BECKM A N

MULTI-TASKING MAVEN, MARY LAUER, CEO AND FOUNDER OF LAUER ENTERPRISES, INC. AND HAPPY FAMILY DESIGNS, INC., ON OVERSEEING TWO MINNESOTA-BASED RETAIL CONCEPTS WHILE GROWING HER WHOLESALE BUSINESS, OH BABY.

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BEFORE HER FEET could reach the floor, Mary Lauer was sewing her own clothes with a phone book under the pedal. By the time she went to college, most of what she brought were her own designs—everything from clothing to accessories to bedding. Little did she know, that practice would come in handy when she tried entrepreneurship on for size about a decade later. “I’ve always been a doer,” Lauer says, modestly reflecting on her journey to becoming the CEO and founder of Lauer Enterprises and Happy Family Designs, the parent companies to her retail/wholesale concepts, Oh Baby, featuring children’s fashion and home furnishings, and Que Sera, a home décor boutique and interior design studio. “Sometimes my husband says I have too many things going on, but that’s just who I am,” she adds. “I’m always trying to be more efficient and never complacent. Everything you do can be done better, but you have to take the time to do it.” Nearly all that Lauer does is done in her native Minnesota. She, her husband/business partner, Tom, and a team of less than 50 employees manufacture most of the Oh Baby collection in its 5,000-square-foot facilities in Minneapolis (a small portion is made overseas) while operating two Oh Baby stores nearby. The Que Sera store/ interior design studio is in Excelsior. “It can seem overwhelming at times, but at least I’m able to keep close tabs on everything,” she says. “Buying, dying and washing fabric, ordering trims, the threads, the elastic—that’s all done by our team. I manage design, fulfillment and shipping—all in the same building. My son even does the photography.” Lauer is blessed with the Just Do It gene. Prior to launching her own businesses, she worked in the fashion industry as an impact manager, after dabbling in real estate. But it wasn’t until their twins were born in 1990 that Lauer turned to the sewing machine again to make some extra-soft, 100-percent cotton outfits for Alex and Tyler. “I couldn’t find anything on the market that would satisfy their sensitive skin,” she says. “So I had to make it myself!” Before long, other moms were asking for Lauer’s hand-painted and hand-dyed designs. That’s when Lauer and her attorney husband started bringing Lauer’s wares to art fairs around Minnesota. In 1994, shortly after their third son Ethan arrived on the scene, Lauer was selected to participate in

the Entrepreneurship Partnership Program at the Mall of America. The mall provided the space, which Lauer dubbed Cuddle Duds. She brought a variety of product to sell, spanning handmade clothing and accessories to hand-carved nursery furniture. The then young mom juggled parenting obligations with managing her growing business as best she could. It was a challenge—even for a multitasker like Lauer. Fortunately, her family pitched in whenever and however they could, and the teamwork paid dividends. “The response was better than we could have ever imagined,” Lauer says. “It was just the right concept at the right time.” Cuddle Duds’ success quickly attracted Gabbert & Beck, operator and developer of the upscale Galleria in Edina. In 1996, Mary opened a new concept in a 700-square-foot space in the Galleria, under a new brand identity Oh Baby. Twelve years later, that store relocated to a neighboring space nearly four times the size. Known for its quality products, nearly 60 percent of Oh Baby’s inventory is designed by Lauer and manufactured locally by artisans in the company’s 5,000-square-foot Minneapolis warehouse. Everything from take-me-home gift sets and glittery tutus to embroidered T-shirts and bed linens is neatly stacked in thoughtful merchandising techniques in the stores. “Everything has a place,” Lauer says. “I spend tons of time and money making backdrops and other artwork for the stores because that’s what gets customers to stay.” In fact, Lauer’s design skills had impressed customers so much they started asking her for interior design advice. She began making visits to the homes of customers, consulting on decor of children’s bedrooms, play spaces and nurseries. “Oh Baby was such a success that the owner of the Galleria wanted us to open another concept,” Lauer says, noting that home furnishings seemed to be a natural extension. “So I just hired a few more designers and opened my home furnishings and design studio, Que Sera.”

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Q&A The 2,200-square-foot shop opened its doors at the Galleria in 1998 in what was originally a flower shop. Quickly attracting customers, Lauer became one of the most trusted interior design consultants in the Twin Cities area. “That’s when we really started to hit our stride,” Lauer says. “It was a dream come true.” (Que Sera has since moved to street front location in Excelsior.) Another dream come true came with the opening of the second Oh Baby store, in 2001, on Lake Minnetonka in Wayzata. It was just across the lake from the Lauers’ home. Or, you might say, a quick water ski jaunt to work, weather permitting. “Tom and I both love waterskiing, so the opportunity to ski across SMALL TA the lake in the summer for meetings at the store has been a treat,” Lauer says. What are you reading? “When you’re working 14 I’ve been carrying around to 17 hours a day, you’ve Wildflower by Drew gotta fit in fun somehow!” Barrymore. I’ll probably get Speaking of which, around to reading it next time Lauer began wholesalI’m on a plane. But you’re ing Oh Baby six years ago, most likely to catch me readwhich has given the couple ing trade magazines. an excuse to escape the What are you watching? I harsh Minnesota winters to really don’t watch much TV. explore the West Coast and If I’m not working, I’m riding Europe for new accounts my bike, going for a walk, and sourcing opportunigardening, waterskiing, ties. “I would have started boating, baking. sooner, but I just didn’t have the bandwidth to do What are you listening to? so while the kids were still I love all kinds of music, home,” she says, adding particularly something new and fresh. I always have tunes that Oh Baby is now sold playing in my stores and at hundreds of retailers warehouse. around the world. In fact, during Oh Baby’s first year What’s your favorite at wholesale, Anthropologie childhood memory? Staying dedicated three pages to with my gigantic family in little the brand in its annual cabins at Smith’s Sandy Shores, holiday catalog. Lauer a resort in Crosslake, MN. credits fellow brands and reps—people she has been doing business with in her stores for more than 25 years—for encouraging her to make the leap into wholesale. She is thankful for the good advice that she believes has helped generate a greater industry good. “As an industry, we should be working together to grow our businesses,” Lauer says. “There’s room in the sandbox for everyone—just play fair.” What do you mean to ‘play fair’? I’m one of the good stores. I buy a lot, I don’t un-buy and I always reorder. I look at every relationship as a partnership. I’m investing in them, so they should invest in me. We’re a team. But if they decide to sell to my neighbor…we can’t all sell the same stuff. That

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becomes a race to the bottom, lowering the price on everything until we’re making no margin. That means no margin to pay employees, bonuses, vacation time, treats to keep people around—that’s no way to run a business. It’s all about playing fair as well as sticking to what we do best and not obsessing about what others are doing. As a mother myself, I know what works and what doesn't. I only carry two or three brands of any product because they’re what I feel are the best. I do the editing so my customers don’t have to.

LK What was your first paying job? Babysitting the neighbors while my mom sat in our house across the street keeping a close watch. What’s your favorite meal? Fish tacos prepared by my son Tyler. What’s inspiring you? Danish-modern living. Lots of texture, weaving, macramé and embroidery—that whole vibe is very interesting to me.

How do you keep Oh Baby a step ahead of the competition? I’m always looking to do something that doesn’t exist. And by the time people see what we’re doing and copy it, we’re already on to the next thing. That can be tough when you’re running many businesses and creating things on a small budget. Sure, the big guys can do it much quicker and much cheaper, but it isn’t made in Minnesota. We’re always trying to carve that special niche: American-made, artisan goods that are still attainable for most consumers.

And how’s business of late? From a wholesale point of view, Fall ’19 is the biggest What talent would you season we’ve ever had. We most like to have? just killed it! It completely To sing well. resonated with buyers, making us totally slammed What’s the best advice at every show. I did a little you’ve been given? Never mommy-and-me collection be afraid to ask questions. last fall that received a great response, so we added more to it this season. Our faux fur coats were also a hit, as well as any embroidery or dappled knits. I also sold a ton of leggings last year because of our superior fit. As you can probably guess, anything Instagram-worthy sold particularly well. What’s your motto? Don’t just dream it, do it.

What advantages does producing most of Oh Baby in Minnesota provide? Well, I don’t have to constantly fly back and forth to Asia worrying about production. Sure, it costs significantly more to manufacture here and pay fair wages. But I’ve had some employees sewing for me for over 25 years! They believe in what we’re doing, and they’re happy doing what they do. If I need to make a trade show with new

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How to Master Initial Markups

NE QUESTION I am often asked by retailers is how to increase maintained margin—the difference between net sales and the net cost of the merchandise, which includes the cost of the goods, freight, stockroom expenses and adjustments for earned discounts. Several answers readily come to mind, the most obvious being to avoid overbuying and therefore reduce margin-eroding markdowns. Another way of increasing maintained margin is to find ways to increase the initial markup (IMU) placed on goods when received from the manufacturer. Typical IMUs for childrenswear stores range from 50 to 55 percent. (Over the past few years, the average percentage has risen as retailers forego trying to match discounters and try to cover rising overhead expenses.) The correct IMU is key to achieving the desired maintained markup. There are three areas that IMU must satisfy: 1. Desired net profit. 2. Operating expenses. 3. Markdowns. Here is a formula for determining IMU given those objectives: IMU =

(desired net profit % + operating expense % + markdown %) 100 + the markdown %

Let’s say the net profit goal is 7 percent, operating expenses are 40 percent and markdowns are 18 percent of sales. Given the formula above, the IMU would have to be 55 percent to cover the markdowns, pay the overhead and still contribute 7 percent to the bottom line. If a store’s operating expenses are 52 percent, the net profit is reduced to 3.4 percent. That’s nearly a 50 percent reduction in profit. So the IMU must be enough in order to have to something left in the end. It is a good idea to review pricing practices regularly. Competitive pressures, changes in operating costs and availability of promotional goods all come into play when deciding on an IMU. For example, are you making IMU decisions based on what a product will sell for or what you paid for it? One way to avoid falling into the trap of cost-based pricing is to determine the selling price when the order is written. In my previous retail career, I would often have our buyers decide what they thought they could sell a certain item for prior to knowing the actual cost. Once we knew the cost, we would make a decision to buy or pass on the item. Basing the retail price around the intrinsic value of the merchandise instead of its actual cost helped us to increase our IMU. Don’t forget that IMU’s must also increase to sustain desired markup goals. Given ever-rising operating expenses, every SKU should be evaluated for increased IMU potential. Try this experiment: Determine how many items were sold last year. Calculate how much additional cash would have dropped to the bottom line if as little as 50¢ or $1 was added to each item. (Spoiler alert: You will be amazed!) Start doing this today with incoming stock and enjoy increased profits this year! —Ritchie Sayner Ritchie Sayner is the owner of Advanced Retail Strategies, LLC, and an affiliate of Management-One. He is the author of Retail Revelations: Strategies for Improving Sales, Margins and Turnover. He can be reached at www. advancedretailstrategies.com

Happy Feet Dan de Fran launches footwear in the U.S. MADE IN LOCAL factories sourced from local materials, Mexican shoe brand Dan de Fran is known for its traditional craftsmanship and comfortable designs. Each pair of leather shoes is designed from the inside out with special attention on fit. The insoles are made from supple leather, so children can play comfortably even in dressier styles. “The shoes have a modern coolness like American brands combined with the tradition and exquisite design of experienced artisans,” says Daniella Zazueta, who launched the brand last year with partner Francia Salido after struggling to find the appropriate shoes for her own children. She believes there’s a void in the market for versatile kids’ shoes. The everyday collection uses a mix of metallics and a soft palette to modernize classic styles like Mary Janes, ballerina flats and sandals. However, the more formal Ceremony collection features elevated looks for special occasions with a price point coming in 30 percent below European brands. “Moms won’t regret buying our brand since its so affordable and can be worn with everything,” Zazueta says, noting that Dan de Fran most recently added coordinating styles for moms. “We hear our line is a perfect fit for the American market,” she adds. After receiving a great response from boutiques in Mexico, Dan de Fran will make its East coast debut this summer at Playtime New York and launched its website this month. For more information, contact Daniella@DandeFran.com.

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Manuela

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From slouchy cardigans to chunky turtlenecks, designers cozy up to Scandinavian-chic. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;Emily Beckman Wynken

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TREND WATCH Imps & Elfs cardigan Pink Chicken dress

Kids on the Moon

Tiny Cottons sweatshirt

Numero 74 tunic

Andy & Evan sweater

Easy Peasy bootie

Add puffer jacket

Spreading it on Thick

Most popular amongst European collections, mustard is coming in hot this fall. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;E.B.

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TREND WATCH

Appaman varsity jacket Le Big snap-closure purse

Malibu Sugar

Imoga moto jacket

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Paper Wings windbreaker PInk Chicken culottes

Metal Mania Make room, silver and gold! Colored metallics join the fray in vibrant to muted hues. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;E.B.

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TREND WATCH Wander and Wonder Andorine

Hayden Los Angeles

Miki Miette

DKNY

Vierra Rose

In the Hood A feminine twist on the athleisure craze, hoodie dresses balance comfort and style. â&#x20AC;&#x201D;E.B

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Jorden wears Blueberry Hill hat, striped top and suspender pants by Tun Tun and Robeez boots.

Sevyn wears Huxbaby cardigan, City Mouse dress, Blueberry Hill bear hat and boots by Bearpaw. Opposite: Brody wears City Mouse top, Tiny Giants joggers and Robeez crib shoes. 24

Liberty wears Tia Cibani Kids shaggy hooded jacket, Robeez crib shoes and Saint Haven one-piece worn underneath Paper Wings overalls. Opposite: Everly wears Oeuf sweater and coordinating socks, 1 + in the Family leggings, Blueberry Hill knit hat and soft-sole boots by Robeez.

William wears fox sweater by Toobydoo, Boboli foxeared hoodie, Joah Love joggers and moccasins by Minnetonka. Opposite: Ava wears Tia Cibani Kids green turtleneck and shaggy earmuffs, Oeuf cardigan, leggings by Oh Baby and Robeez booties.

Luke wears white fleece by Angel Dear, Tiny Giants sweatpants, Saint Haven one-piece and Robeez boots. Opposite: Niall wears Hudson Kids bomber jacket and Henley top, Blu & Blue camo shortalls, Booso socks and Bearpaw boots. Grooming by Christina Errante; styling assistance by Enid Hunt.

Q&A continued from page 10 samples, fill a special order or have something delivered quick, they always meet the deadline because nearly everything is centered in Minnesota. I say almost everything, because since we’ve started receiving large orders from select accounts, we’ve shifted some of our manufacturing overseas. We monitor everything closely. Ideally, Tom and I would like to have a place abroad for part of the year where we can keep an even closer eye on production. That’s our end game. As a designer, where do you look for inspiration? I listen. As a retailer as well, I’m in the store asking customers questions. Sure, I’ll make something just because I think it’s a cute or funny idea—like metallic leggings inspired by Sandy in Grease, or a dress made from sparkly fabric like Glinda the Good Witch. But I always check back to see if it makes sense with my clientele. I want to design what my gift-givers are proud to give and what their kids are most comfortable wearing. I look for comfort, trust and loyalty from my designs. When a customer comes back to buy the same bamboo T-shirt in three other colors because that’s all their son will wear, I know I’m doing my job. Speaking of jobs, how’s your other (retail) job going? Great! Our sales per square foot are well above the national average

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for both Oh Baby and Que Sera. With respect to Oh Baby, consumers today are more interested in purchasing quality goods instead of just buying stuff. There’s a lot more variety now, so you need to have a certain niche for people to want to shop into your store. You have to inspire them to shop with you, rather than have them shop online. You have to develop a relationship, and your store has to be their happy place. We don’t just sell product, we sell experience. What exactly makes your stores a ‘happy place’? A good example is our recently opened Oh Baby location on France Avenue South in Edina. It‘s street facing and a space we’re thrilled for our customers to experience. The aesthetic is very Danish-modern. It’s clean, airy and loaded with natural materials. For instance, my neighbor’s tree got hit by lightning, so I had him slice it into big stumps that we placed throughout the store as merchandising displays. I also created a large tree motif on the wall with shelves that hold our plush items. My son also designed macramé wall hangings on branches that are indigo dip-dyed. Embroidered pillows, bedding and mobiles are some other decorative offerings we use to decorate as well as sell. They’re not available for wholesale—yet. Everything is colorful, beautiful and has a specific place in the store. When a customer loves how a space is curated, they feel compelled to buy.

Q&A

AUTUMN WIN TE R 19

COLLECTION

This location gives us more space as well as an opportunity to sell outside the mall. And the benefits of being located outside of a mall? I read an article recently about how a very low percentage of Millennials shopped at malls this past holiday season. Our move to a street front location is good for that reason, plus the fact that I’ll finally be able to close at 6 p.m. instead of 9 p.m. Having Sundays off will also be a perk of the new location. It’s give me some time to refuel.

THERE'S A LOT MORE VARIETY NOW, SO YOU NEED TO HAVE A CERTAIN NICHE FOR PEOPLE TO WANT TO SHOP IN YOUR STORE .

Speaking of which, how’s your interior design retail/studio business doing? We’ve expanded from homes into commercial spaces. One of my designers just finished a high-end optical shop. We also recently finished a children’s dentistry office and a financial company. We expanded beyond the Minnesota area as well—we’re currently working on homes in California and South Carolina. I’ve also done some retail consulting, helping stores achieve that rhythmic feel that makes customers want to come visit.

VIEW THE NEW AUTUMN WINTER 2019 COLLECTION TO BOOK AN APPOINTMENT PLEASE CONTACT:

E: usa.showroom@joules.com T: 917-675-7254 Joulesusa.com

Would you say nursery décor is becoming more congruent with the rest of the home’s style? Absolutely! We’ve always done it that way—before it became a trend. The nursery is somewhere you spend a lot of time, so it’s nice to have it be comfortable, serene and not over the top with trucks or bows. Soft and comfortable is my favorite aesthetic. It’s versatile, and you’re not going to get tired of it. Do you enjoy working with family? I love it! It’s so nice to have my husband join me and travel the world for shows. My one son does a beautiful job on our photography. And the family extends to our customers. We often feature their children as models to help further establish those relationships, which also helps spread the word about Oh Baby through social media. What do you love most about your job? I just love enhancing other people’s lives, whether it’s through my stores’ experience or the products I create. I also love business—hearing about other people’s businesses and bettering my own business. I’m passionate about delighting the

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DESIGNER CHAT

Fashion Matters

JULIA MIN, DESIGNER AND FOUNDER OF TWELVE LITTLE, ON NEVER HAVING TO SACRIFICE STYLE FOR FUNCTION WHEN CHOOSING THE RIGHT DIAPER BAG. BY A L E DA J O H N S O N AFTER YEARS DESIGNING women’s handbags for brands like Coach and Juicy Couture in New York, new mom Julia Min put her skills to the test to create a line of fashionable diaper bags. Teaming up with close friend and fellow Rhode Island School of Design graduate Jenny Chang, the duo launched Twelve Little. “Just because you have a newborn doesn’t mean you have to compromise everything,” Min says. “Twelve Little allows Mom to still be a little selfish and carry a bag she loves instead of one that’s just convenient.” After a soft launch in 2015, Min took a hiatus to have her second and third child before stepping back into the role of designer and founder in 2017. Since then, the line of neutral nylon bags with leather trim has grown into a wider selection of functional water-resistant diaper bags with luxury elements like padded straps, bottle storage and hidden pockets for dirty diapers. The style most recently added, a “peek-a-boo” bag with

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a chic nylon and leather hybrid construction, includes hidden features like deep pockets and a built-in changing pad. Min cites leopard and camo as popular prints of late. In addition, children’s author and illustrator Sarah Jane is teaming with Twelve Little this fall for an exclusive mermaid and narwhal print on kids’ lunch bags, backpacks, playdate circle bags and pencil cases. “I just love her whimsical style—always playful yet understated,” Min says, noting the print is versatile enough to be carried from camp through back-to-school. Beyond its fashion-meets-function designs, Min is most proud of Twelve Little’s commitment to donating products to local and national nonprofits each season. Past contributions have included to homeless shelters and military baby showers. “I want people to be inspired and realize that even a small company can make a big difference,” Min says. “Customers need to understand

Twelve Little is more than just thoughtful designs—we are a friend in our customers’ communities.” How’s business? It’s been going very well! Last year we pushed marketing more than ever, which really paid off. We’ve always done social media, but in 2018 we invested in ecommerce marketing that gave us a huge boost. How have most consumers discovered Twelve Little? Instagram has been huge. We do about half our online sales through the link, and we work with a lot of influencers and retailers who tag us. YouTube is also a surprisingly good platform because it has so many functions, and Facebook is good for community building. What sets your designs apart from the competition? Our bags are not just pretty to look at, but promise our customers easy-to-use, easy-to-wash, easy-to-wear value. Most of the company is run by fellow moms, so we design keeping what it’s like to care for our own children in mind. What has been your favorite Twelve Little design to date? The Companion Backpack in denim nylon. It was our very first backpack. Even after updating it four times, it’s still my favorite. How do you see Twelve Little evolving over the next five years? We currently have good presence in small shops and some larger retailers. I want to always keep a good balance between our in-store and online sales. We carefully control our Amazon shop to give our wholesale accounts a chance to sell new styles first before they are available online. No matter what, we want to foster healthy relationships with our partners and continue to provide beautiful designs that never sacrifice function.

P H OTO G R A P H Y BY C H LO E K I M

Who is a designer you admire? Diane Von Furstenberg, not only for fashion but also for her confidence and her elegant character in being one of the first American female designers. What do you love most about being a designer? The most fun comes from when I can just focus on the beauty of designing—something that has always come naturally to me. Now that I’m a business owner, I’m forced to think more about numbers. But once you get past that tedious step, there’s nothing more rewarding than seeing your visions come to life and be enjoyed by moms and kids across the country.

goosewaddle.com contact: Brooks Dixon brooks@goosewaddle.com p: 252-375-7544

W H A T ’S S E L L I N G

Milk & Honey Babies New York, NY

HEN ARIANA ADAMS of Milk & Honey Babies What’s been the biggest challenge since moving? We’ve had to be a heard about Hudson Yards, the mega retail mecca lot smarter in our merchandising and selection to stay ahead of the curve. opening in Manhattan, she jumped at the opportuI think the most difficult part is having items that appeal to a wide range nity. Operating the original location in Englewood, of parents. However, I think when you offer moms high-quality, ethically NJ, since 2015, Adams closed the store and hopped manufactured items in conjunction with stylish and comfortable fabrics, across the river into Hudson Yards in time for its you set yourself up for success. Overall, we’re still offering the same ecogrand debut in March. “New York is such an eclectic environment, full of friendly products that are sustainably manufactured. We’re still a one-stop personality and style,” Adams says of her hometown. “There’s always exshop for new parents, but we’ve added more touristy things, like New York citement in the air, and our new retail space and selection embodies that.” City themed toys, one-pieces, rattles and security blankets. The 1,200-square-foot shop neighbors other emerging retailers on the complex’s second floor, dubbed “The Floor of Discovery.” The bouWhat are your best-selling apparel brands? We’ve done well with Quincy tique’s vibrant aesthetic welcomes customers with a friendly staff, highly Mae, which is an organic basics line from Rylee + Cru. It’s especially good curated merchandising for newborns. Estella is and a secluded changing another great brand with and nursing room for popular rattles and onemoms. “Hudson Yards’ pieces. I’m especially innovative shopping excited about carrying experience makes it the Parasol diapers because perfect destination to I think they’re utterly introduce unique offeramazing. They’re nearly ings and services to the eight times more absorcommunity’s parents and bent than the average professionals,” Adams diaper. It’s like putting says, noting that the new a cloud on your baby. digs will be a one-stop Diaper bags from Freshly shop, offering clothing Picked and Twelve Little and toys to gear and furalso do well in our gear niture. “Our mission is section, having a sleek, to help parents navigate lightweight appearance the marketplace with that’s perfect for the innovative and safe opon-the-go urban mom. tions that complement their lifestyle.” How about toys and The Milk & Honey accessories? Loulou Milk & Honey Babies’ new location in Hudson Yards is a one-stop Babies selection includes Lollipop sustainable shop for trendy clothing and gear. innovative and modern teethers and pacifier brands like Oeuf, Cybex, DockATot and Rylee + Cru. “These brands have clips are really well made. The Oreo cookie one sells best. Oli & Carol so much personality while still remaining functional, safe and sustainveggie teethers are also popular. New Yorkers love the kale and broccoli able; which is the key combination all of our products meet,” Adams says. styles, specifically. We also do well with BabyLit books, which are takes on “Our mission is to educate parents—prove to them that cribs, swings, the classics and primers for emotions, colors and numbers. The Romeo rockers and bouncers don’t have to be bulky and blaring. Baby care can and Juliet and Jane Eyre ones are always the first to sell out. be city chic, too!” —Aleda Johnson Any merchandising techniques you are most excited to introduce? How’s business in the new digs? It’s been awesome! We’ve met so So many of our styles are limited stock, so we try to push those to keep many new customers. With the Vessel and the High Line right there, things fresh. Our seasonal brands are typically sourced from Spain, Paris Hudson Yards is a huge tourist attraction. We get people from all over and Copenhagen. I like the fact that parents will shop our items knowing the world as well as local residents exploring this new shopping complex. their baby will be one of the only ones wearing these designs in the city. It’s very exciting, and we’re getting phenomenal traffic for just opening a few months ago. I’ve even had a handful of customers visit from our How much of a role does social media play in your marketing? A old town, which is so heartwarming. huge portion of our customer base follows us on Instagram, and that’s

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our top marketing platform. We partner with bloggers who help drive traffic to our store. We find that people shop our Instagram first before coming to the website or into the store. It has also helped drive home the Hudson Yards experience with the hashtag #onlyathudsonyards. What’s in the pipeline for Milk & Honey Babies? We’re looking forward to expanding through some pop-up opportunities on the West Coast later this year. And I hope to simply continue having conversations with other moms A nursing room warmly about what they like and want, welcomes new moms. so I can continue to meet the needs of modern parents. I love creating personal connections with our customers. The baby industry is oversaturated with product choices, which can be overwhelming for new parents. I love that I can give parents a curated shopping experience and provide access to unique product lines and services tailored to their specific needs that aren’t offered by your big box retailers. There’s a demand for a personalized shopping experience more than ever, and I’m rewarded in providing that.

BEHIND THE SEAMS

Chew on This

January Moon offers nontoxic, stylish teething jewelry.

Peruvian Connection Nella Pima raises the bar on quality cotton goods. HAILING FROM A family of Peruvian cotton farmers, Marianella Monsalve always wanted to better promote the hard-working farmers and their exceptional cotton. But it wasn’t until Monsalve started having grandkids—swathed in polyester and other synthetic fabrics— that she had a lightbulb moment. “No one appreciated the kind of work it takes to grow cotton until they have the final product,” she says. “I decided to create a baby line of Pima cotton to give children good, quality clothing.” True to form, Monsalve launched Nella Pima in 2016 with cotton sourced from top suppliers in her native country. “One of my goals is to keep quality at 100 percent,” she says. “Children deserve the softness, durability, wonderful brightness and texture of Peruvian Pima cotton.” The collection of layette, sleepwear and bibs (SRP $16-$60) features small animals and sailboats hand-stitched by local artisans from patterns drawn by a Peruvian designer. The brand also just introduced robes for moms, which match back to one-pieces and baby sacks. Monsalve jokingly refers to the dash of Italian heritage in her Peruvian blood for Nella Pima’s overall classic European aesthetic. For Fall ’19, that translates to soft pastels and whites, delicate embroidery, French knot details and picot trimming. “I emulated the layette I was seeing in Europe,” she says, adding, “The people at my factory wanted to kill me because I had three to five samples made to get the colors just right.” Monsalve reports a strong response from U.S. buyers, with many remarking on the design quality. Nella Pima is currently found at boutiques in California, Georgia and in the Northeast. The exec says the account list is growing steadily, including select department stores. “To be a part of Nella Pima is to be a family, from the farmers to the retailers to the customers,” Monsalve says. —Aleda Johnson

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AFTER SEVEN YEARS designing jewelry in Nashville, TN, Jenny Luckett decided to apply her accessories expertise to her life’s newest chapter: motherhood. “My son wanted to put everything in his mouth, and I was worried it wasn’t good for him,” Luckett says of the inspiration behind the brand. Launched in 2016, January Moon offers high-quality teething jewelry built to withstand teething gums and grabby hands. The collection, a blend of chic and durable designs, is made from 100-percent, non-toxic, food-grade silicone, Japanese rope and 24K gold. “I’m always working to make these products the best I can. I even worked with a mechanical engineer to come up with a special safety breakaway clasp for maximum durability,” Luckett says, adding that all silicone beads are tested by a third party and compliant with CPSIA, ASTM F963-II and Prop 65 standards. “Nothing gets put into production until it passes rigorous testing and retesting.” The latest designs are influenced by Luckett’s daughter, who was born just before the first collection launched. “All the products I’ve released are things I’ve seen her need during her development,” she says. Beaded pacifier clips and brightly colored teething bracelets (SRP $24-$44) were useful during breastfeeding, and Luckett launched bamboo and silicone spoons and forks ($16) that attach to pacifier clips when her daughter starting throwing utensils on the ground. For Fall, Luckett is coming out with a line of necklaces for children who need extra sensory stimulation. “My son chews on his clothing now, so it was about finding a way to focus that energy somewhere else,” she says. While teething jewelry covers a niche time in a child’s life, Luckett reports buyers at Playtime New York loved how January Moon’s designs can be worn as a fashion statement well past when your child stops teething. “People are so happy and relieved to find something they can comfortably and safely wear when they don’t want to wear other clunky teething jewelry,” she says. January Moon can be found in a range of stores nationwide, including a partnership with Maisonette’s Nordstrom pop-up this summer. “We’re really coming up on large exposure, and we’re excited to work with larger retailers,” Luckett says. “We’re looking forward to what’s on the horizon.” —A.J.

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new york

Texas Chic Karina Drake, owner of Alexa James Baby, on how she is bringing contemporary New York style to the rapidly growing hipster hot spot of Austin, TX. FIRST IMPRESSIONS When I opened Alexa James Baby last summer,

I put just as much money and effort into the physical space as the inventory. I hired a talented interior designer to help make the boutique feel beautiful yet different. The store is very spacious with calming colorways and Boho-chic décor. Everything is curated thoughtfully—never squeezed on a rack or stuffed on a shelf. GO THE EXTRA MILE(S) I grew up traveling and

was most proud when I found something particularly beautiful to bring back and share with friends. I now apply that passion to my assortment, having a good mix of established brands and completely unheard of treasures from other countries. Beyond shopping in Dallas, I happily make the trek to the New York market. Next season, I even plan on attending Playtime Paris to find more little gems or larger brands that want to be represented by one boutique in a city the size of Austin. SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE While I don’t have lots

HOME RUNS Playwear Oeuf Layette Mori Toys Milton & Goose Dresswear Morley Shower Gift Red Caribou Accessories Donsje

of smocking or monogramming (both very New Brand popular in Texas), my selection still appeals Hey Gang to traditional Southern grandmas and trendy urban moms alike. Most importantly, I always buy with three strong price points in mind: $50, $100 and $300. I find that most customers spend around $150 on a gift. SEAMLESS, PLEASE Coming from a very buttoned-up advertis-

ing background in New York, I love when buying is seamless. Working on a platform like NuOrder or Brandboom always makes the interaction so much easier as opposed to using an Excel sheet. It’s also a treat when brands send over quality images, so I don’t have to coordinate a photo shoot. GET A SECOND OPINION When you’ve been staring at your order

long enough, it all starts to blur together. I often rely on trusted friends who work in the industry to weigh in on my buy. Being in the store so often, I’ve also become very close with my customers who are very open about what they prefer. The more opinions you welcome, the better idea you’ll have of what will stick in the future. w w w. i l o v e p l a y t i m e . c o m